Guadalupe Mountains National Park U.S

Home , Bush Mountain (Texas), Guadalupe Pass (Texas), Guadalupe Peak, McKittrick Canyon, The Hiker (Kitson)

National Park Service Guadalupe Mountains National Park U.S. Department of the Interior

Visitorsummer/fall Guide 2015 Fall/Winter 2019 FindA Sky Your Full Adventure of Wonder and a Mosaic of Biodiversity On the Guadalupe Ridge Trail

Photo by Artist in Residence Ethan Smith

By Elizabeth Jackson for 23 miles along Highway 62/180 and posed range. Facilities at the trailhead Greetings Guadalupe Mountains National Park turn right on FM 1576 just before you include accessible parking, RV/bus Welcome to Guadalupe Mountains is full of wonderful surprises. From the reach the town of Salt Flat. Travel north parking, picnic tables with shade struc- National Park. Guadalupe Mountains disappearing streams of McKittrick 17 miles and then turn right on William’s tures, as well as pit toilets. Camping is National Park protects one of the world’s Canyon to the Sky Island coniferous Road. Continue on the dirt packed road strictly prohibited in this area. best examples of a fossil reef, diverse eco- forest and meadow of the Bowl trail, no for 8.5 miles. Use caution and travel systems, and a cultural heritage that spans matter where you hike in the park, there slowly. There is no water, so be sure to As you begin your 1.5 mile hike to the thousands of years. is always something unique to experi- bring what you need. dunes, you enter ecologically sensitive ence and learn. One area of the park terrain. The area landscape leading to Our park staff are here to help make your that is often overlooked is the Salt Basin An alternate route to the dunes incor- the dunes is fragile and visitors are asked visit a truly memorable event and will be Dunes. Located along the western area porates a visit to Dell City first. Travel to stay on the trail. A darkened cryp- happy to help you plan your visit in the of the park, they are tucked away, down west on Highway 62/180 for 30 miles togamic crust can be observed on the park and surrounding areas. Guadalupe a secluded, rugged road. This is an area and turn right on FM 1437. Continue for sandy soil alongside the trail. This crust Mountains National Park has over 80 miles where expensive cars fear to travel. 13 miles, and look on the left side for the assists vegetation and allows it to take of hiking trails to explore, ranging from The Salt Basin Dunes glisten in the sun, familiar National Park Service arrow- hold, while providing a thinly layered wheelchair accessible paths to strenuous beckoning the adventurous to trek into head signaling the park contact station. nitrogen source. This delicate layer also mountain hikes, including an 8.4 mile its white, shifting landscape. Although Enter the parking lot into the Dell City helps the dunes resist the strong winds roundtrip hike to Texas’ highest mountain, these sand drifts originated in an area Contact station to visit the new exhibits and prevents erosion. Guadalupe Peak (8,751'). once covered by water 1.8 million years and listen to a brief electronic narration ago, they have no water current to regarding park logistics and information Once at the dunes, as you look over to As you travel and spend time in the area change the ripples now. The wind and on the dunes site. From the contact sta- the north end, a sixty foot high dune please remember to keep safety in mind. wildlife are tasked to paint patterns in tion, visitors can continue to the dunes rises, meeting the nearby western Deer and other wildlife are plentiful—en- the sand here. Created by a fault in the by driving north through town and mountain range. Smaller dunes sur- joy watching wildlife, but remember they crustal rocks some 26 million years ago, turning right on FM 2249 and then right round the area and soft red quartz grain often move across roads, especially in the the gypsum grains cover almost 2,000 on FM 1576. Then turn left on William dunes can be seen north of the Patter- evenings; be vigilant while driving during acres on the western range of the park. Road (about one mile from FM2249). son Hills area, giving the illusion of a twilight hours. Hikers should be prepared This stunning, austere beauty calls the When visitors arrive to this day use area, misty pink landscape. Many will visit the for rapidly changing weather conditions. visitor who is looking to explore more they can learn more about the dunes Guadalupe Mountains and never ven- Hikers can become dehydrated in our dry remote areas. and the western escarpment formation ture to the Salt Basin Dunes, but these climate, so carry plenty of water (one gal- from the recently installed interpretive gypsum sands reflect and beckon the lon per person per day is recommended). The Salt Basin Dunes picnic area and wayside exhibit that provides visitor seasoned hiker who is seeking the road Always check with a ranger before ventur- trailhead are located 50 miles from the information on the geology of the ex- less traveled. ing into the backcountry. Pine Springs Visitor Center. Travel west

We wish you a rewarding experience in Hiking Information Page 4 every way. Inside Parks as Neighbors Page 2 Prepare for Changeable Weather Page 5 Sincerely, Got a Wild Question About the Park? Wildlife & You Page 6 Ask Lupe the Ringtail! Page 2 Wildland Caving & Sitting Bull Falls Page 7 Eric Brunnemann P.B. King: Geology Giant of the (Lincoln National Forest) Superintendent Guadalupes Page 3 Nearby Attractions Page 8 tain a balance between what happens to fall let’s develop life-long connections between The National Park Service was Parks as Neighbors on one side of a park boundary and what the public and their parks. To do this ef- created in the Organic Act of 1916. The new agency’s mission remains outside of it. fectively, we must identify the needs of as managers of national parks By Tyler Young, This is precisely why parks must become surrounding populations. Parks can be a and monuments was clearly Community Volunteer Ambassador part of communities. As the Department place for healthy recreational activities in stated. of the Interior puts it, parks must “be a the absence of other options. Imagine that: “....to conserve the scenery and the natural I often think that every person should better neighbor ... by improving dialogue a doctor prescribing their patient a weekly and historic objects and the wild life therein have a national park that they consider part and to provide for the enjoyment of the and relationships with persons and entities hike! Or a counselor referring their client to same in such manner and by such means as of their community. A quick glance at a bordering our lands.” Much of this effort is an art therapy program in a nearby park. We will leave them unimpaired for the enjoy- map, though, makes it seem like that’s just focused on the “entities” in that statement: could see on the dinner table food grown in a ment of future generations.” not possible. Many towns and cities don’t municipal governments (and their tourism volunteer-tended plot at a historical farm site. To support that mission, the col- have a park nearby, and the inverse holds as boards), corporations, and social organiza- On the weekend, one might attend a cultural lecting of natural and historic well; many parks - like Guadalupe Moun- tions. There is still plenty of room left for event at their favorite park, and stay afterwards objects is prohibited. tains - are geographically isolated from most the “persons,” however. Parks like Guada- to watch a skilled volunteer share their passion people. However, if we consider a commu- lupe Mountains are investing in volunteer for astronomy at a star viewing party. nity not as a boundary drawn on a map, but events and opportunities. Whatever your Seeing a park ranger may never be as regular as as a set of experiences shared with people, skillset or interests, you are likely to find a seeing your local bank teller, or grocery store new opportunities are created. Likewise, we park that fits. Whether you like photogra- clerk. There is plenty of room, though, to make Telephone and can also alter our definition of a park. It’s phy, hiking, backpacking, citizen science, or parks part of people’s weekly, monthly, or Web Directory common to think of national parks merely education, there’s a park looking for some- yearly routines. The first invitation was sent in

as lands “set aside” by Congress, as if with one like you to volunteer on a short- or 1872 from Yellowstone. The Guadalupe Moun- Guadalupe Mountains National Park 400 Pine Canyon Drive the stroke of a pen one could magically long-term basis. tains sent theirs one hundred years later. There Salt Flat, TX 79847 fence off thousands of acres and protect it will never be a deadline to accept. 915-828-3251 ext. 2124 from outside influence. This all-protective It’s a bold proposition, but a simple one: ...Ask Lupe! continued www.nps.gov/gumo boundary does not exist. Rather, parks must let’s push parks beyond being a once-in- Facebook Lupe, www.facebook.com/Guadalupe.Moun- work with people near and far to help main- a-lifetime vacation destination. Instead, Do you allow campfires in the park? We tains like to roast s’mores! Twitter Gregg T. @GuadalupeMtnsNP Salutations Gregg! Instagram We never allow campfires in Guadalupe guadalupemountainsnps Mountains National Park! It’s way too dry Food, Lodging, and Camping and hot here for fires. Plus, we get pretty Carlsbad Chamber of Commerce windy here too. Just last week, a strong gust 575-887-6516 nearly blew me out of my new favorite tree! www.carlsbadchamber.com And just a few weeks before that, a really

Van Horn Texas Visitors Bureau strong gust actually blew down my old 432-283-2682 favorite tree! >:| With such high winds, and this dry desert environment, wildfires can Road Conditions catch and spread quickly. Luckily, the rang- New Mexico: 800-432-4269 ers that work at my park do a good job of www.nmroads.com Volunteerism Makes a Difference trying to stop wildfires from spreading too Texas: 800-452-9292 We would like to extend our sincere gratitude to the dedicated drivetexas.org much, so they don’t allow campfires, but effort and talent that volunteers have brought to Guadalupe Mountains National Park. they do allow gas or propane stoves! I’d re- Volunteers play a vital role in fulfilling our mission of preserving our natural and cultural Emergency: Call 911 heritage and sharing that heritage with the visiting public. Volunteers do everything from ally appreciate it if you didn’t use any sort of staffing the information desk, roving interpretation, patrolling trails, to trail maintenance, fire or charcoal grills in order to help pre- Guadalupe Mountains NP research, and more. vent wildfires. Otherwise, I might not have Visitor Center (Nature Trail) any trees left to be my favorite anymore. :( Coordinate System: Lat/Long To become a Volunteer-In-Park (VIP) visit www.volunteer.gov Yours, eternally grateful, Datum: WGS 1984 or contact: Lupe Latitude: 31.89370° N Longitude: 104.82214° W Guadalupe Mountains National Park Hi Lupe, Amanda Cooper, Volunteer-In-Park Coordinator Whose scat is scattered all over the 915-828-3251 ext. 2311 trails? Sometimes its red, sometimes it’s a bit darker, and sometimes it has a lot Ask Lupe! I can tell you several things to prepare you of berries! We see it everywhere when for hiking up Guadalupe Peak. First things we go hiking! first! Bring plenty of water! I’ve seen so Leah (Lee-ahh, not Leiah) many poor humans start the hike and turn My dearest LeeAHH (; back because they ran out too fast! The best Well, if you really must know, it’s mine! humans usually take about 6-8 water bottles Heh heh. A ringtail’s gotta do, what a ring- with them (one gallon)—and salty snacks tail’s gotta do! I’m just such a busy creature As a nonprofit education part- too! I always try and get them to share some when I wake up at night, and I’m running ner of the National Park Service, with me, but no luck so far. I know they’re to and fro, that it just kind of ends up…. all just looking out for me and my best eating WNPA supports 71 national park over. It’s not all entirely my fault though! In habits, but it sure is darn tempting! Also, partners across the West, devel- this desert environment, things decay and bring plenty of sun protection! It’s so hot oping products, services, and decompose a lot slower than in other envi- here! I personally prefer hiking at night, but programs that enrich the visitor ronment, so my business sticks around and y’all humans sure are blind when the sun Dear Lupe, becomes everybody’s business, teehee. experience. I love hiking! It’s one of my favorite sets. When hiking during the day my fur things to do! I’m so looking forward to Your buddy, coat helps, but you should bring plenty of visiting your park one day, but I’ve never Lupe In partnership with the National hiked Guadalupe Peak before- do you sunblock and some hats that cover all your Park Service since 1938, WNPA ad- have any advice for me? face and head. I’ve seen so many people Lots of love, vances education, interpretation, Elizabeth J. change colors on the hike! They start out Have a wild question you want answered? one color and turn red at the end! Haha! Ask Lupe! research, and community engage- Hi Elizabeth! Anyway, I hope this helps, Elizabeth! And I Email [email protected] and ment to ensure national parks are I love hiking too! In fact, that’s one of the can’t wait to see you on the trails! we’ll get your questions to our park’s mas- increasingly valued by all. things I love to do the most. I’ve hiked all Lupe cot asap. up and down Guadalupe Mountains—and 2 Visitor Guide Philip B. King: Geology Giant of the Guadalupes by Boyd Kennedy overhead, and the air became “vibrant” with electricity. Realizing they were in danger, Philip B.King was born in Indiana in 1903 the group fled the peak as fast as they could and graduated from the University of Iowa go. King was scared of lightning, and wrote with a geology degree in 1924. He went on that he considered the women’s pace on the to obtain advanced degrees from Iowa and way down to be “painfully slow.” He did Yale University based on his studies of the not record whether he communicated those geology of the Glass Mountains of West sentiments to Helen. Texas. First as a curious college student, and later as a respected member of the U.S. King’s last official act before leaving Frijole Geological Survey, King combed the vast in early 1935 was to auction off the govern- West Texas landscape by primitive auto- ment pickup truck he had worn out jolting mobile and on foot, examining rocks and over the harsh desert terrain. This proved seeking out fossils, taking copious notes and to be a challenging assignment, considering sketches, and filling the car with rocks that money was scarce and the local population destroyed the upholstery and broke the car almost nonexistent. When the bidding springs. There were no paved roads. On stalled at $10 King put his foot down and one outing the rear axle of his car sheared refused to sell until the bids improved. The off, as King and his assistant jolted to a stop Smith family finally bought the truck for and watched a wheel roll off into the des- $90, and the Kings drove away to Phillip’s ert. King’s unpublished autobiography, the new posting in Washington, D.C. as the first source for much of this article, describes snow of the winter began to fall at Frijole the people and places that he encountered Ranch. in what is now Guadalupe Mountains Na- Figure 1. The Capitan Reef formed 260-270 million years ago. Much of it is buried, but tional Park. Over the course of his long career King faulting and uplift have exposed portions of the reef in the Guadalupe , Apache, and Glass Mountains. worked as a field geologist throughout the King first visited the Guadalupes in 1926 described their approach as follows: “This United States, taught at the Universities of when he and a colleague drove west was the “dustbowl” period, and the sky King spent the first two months of 1934 Texas, Arizona, and California – Los An- through Guadalupe Pass in King’s Model T was murky with dust blown in from the examining the mountain range from top to geles, and authored fine descriptions and Ford. The travelers on the Butterfield Over- Great Plains. Going north from Van Horn bottom between McKittrick canyon and El maps of the geology of North America. Yet land Mail wagon in 1858 would no doubt I couldn’t show Helen much of the country Capitan, making detailed notes and draw- he returned to the Guadalupes whenever have recognized King’s description of the until, from only a short distance, the great ings of the marine organisms that built up he got a chance, visiting Wallace Pratt at his route: “The roads were incredibly bad, no cliffs of El Capitan and Guadalupe Peak the reef, the talus and slide debris on the cabin in McKittrick Canyon to talk shop, more than a winding rocky track, but we loomed up out of the murk.” The Kings reef front, and the transition zone where and acting as host and guide for visiting arrived at Guadalupe Pass, where we could arrived at Frijole Ranch several days before reef rocks meet deep ocean deposits laid geologists as late as the 1960s. look down over a great sequence of sand- the letter they had mailed from Austin! down at the base of the reef. That summer stone and limestone strata. We descended Nevertheless, they received a warm recep- he rented a cabin near the Bowl from the The formations in the Guadalupe Moun- over an incredibly steep and winding road, tion from the Smith family, who owned and Hunter-Grisham Corp. and explored the tains first documented by King have by which it would have been impossible for us operated Frijole. The Kings moved into high-country area of the park, roaming as analogy yielded much information about to have ascended in our Model T.” one of the guest cabins and took their meals far as Dog Canyon. King then turned his similar formations found underground in with the Smiths. attention to the western escarpment, leav- the nearby Permian Basin and elsewhere in Later that same year (1926), King heard of a ing Frijole with an assistant each day before the world. More recently, NASA scientists novel theory circulating in geological cir- Philip and Helen found that the Smiths daylight, driving to Williams Ranch, and have examined the Guadalupe Mountains cles, that some of the strange formations he were very self-sufficient. The family mem- then hiking overland for an hour or more to better equip themselves to decipher and others had noticed in the Glass Moun- bers grazed sheep and by hard work raised just to get to the starting place for their the sedimentary landscape of Mars. Who tains might be ancient marine reefs. King’s almost everything they ate without electric- day’s work. On payday Phillip and Helen could have predicted that knowledge first later field work helped confirm that the ity or refrigeration. As King put it, “Mrs. drove to El Paso to cash his paycheck and gathered by Philip King in his Model T Ford Guadalupes and the Glass Mountains are in Smith canned large quantities of meats and spend the money eating and shopping in would turn out to be useful on other plan- fact aboveground portions of the 400-mile vegetables that they had raised on their own El Paso and Juarez. They would bring back ets? What will these rocks tell us next? long horseshoe-shaped Capitan Reef. (See place; when unexpected guests arrived all a 100 pound block of ice wrapped in blan- Figure 1.) she had to do was open some more cans.” kets, and for the next few days everybody at Philip King’s superb field work during The ranch house and the cabins were lit Frijole Ranch celebrated with iced tea and his time at Frijole Ranch was by far the After many seasons prowling the West by an acetylene gas light system, while the ice cream. most thorough and in-depth study of the Texas landscape, King finally got his chance hydraulic ram and storage tank in the front Guadalupe Mountains to date. His report in 1934 to make an extended study of the yard provided water from the spring. Visi- King also learned that Guadalupe Peak is was a tour de force titled, simply, Geology Guadalupe Mountains. Now employed by tors to Frijole Ranch today can see the rem- a dangerous place during summer thun- of the Southern Guadalupe Mountains, the U.S. Geological Survey, he and his wife nants of those water and light systems, as well derstorms. On one day in September, as Texas. It is available online at https:// Helen drove to Frijole Ranch and made as a restored version of the old Smith family the Kings and another couple reached the pubs.er.usgs.gov/publication/pp215. it their base camp for almost a year. King orchard with its spring-fed irrigation ditches. summit, ominous clouds suddenly gathered

Visitor Guide 3 Guadalupe Mountains National Park Entrance Fee $7.00/person (16 & older) Free for Senior, Access, and Annual Pass cardholders Fee subject to change. NPS Photo NPS Photo/Dave Bieri NPS Photo/Dave Bieri NPS Photo/Michael Haynie services hiking camping backpacking Facilities and services within and near Gua- Pinery Trail Water and restrooms are available, but there Eighty-five miles of trails lead through for- dalupe Mountains National Park are ex- Distance: .67 mile are no showers, RV hookups, or dump sta- ests, canyons, and desert to ten backcountry tremely limited. The nearest gas stations are Difficulty: Easy, wheelchair accessible, slight tions. The fee is $15.00 per night, per site, campgrounds. A free permit is required if 43 miles west (Dell City, TX), 35 miles east incline on return trip. $7.50 with a Senior Pass (or existing Golden you plan to spend a night in the backcountry. (White’s City, NM), or 65 miles south (Van Age Passport) or Access Pass (or exist- Permits are issued at the Pine Springs Visitor Horn, TX). There is no campstore; bring Discover the desert as you walk to the ruins ing Golden Access Passport). No wood or Center and the Dog Canyon Ranger Station. everything you need with you. of the Pinery, a stagecoach station on the charcoal fires are permitted; camp stoves are For those coming through Carlsbad, Dog Butterfield Overland Mail Route in 1858. allowed. Canyon is a great place to begin a backpack- Information & Exhibits Trailside exhibits. This is the only trail pets ing trip because it requires less elevation Pine Springs Visitor Center on leash are allowed. Pine Springs Campground gain to get into the backcountry. Elevation 5,730'. On Highway 62/180, 55 Located near the Pine Springs Visitor miles southwest of Carlsbad, 110 miles east McKittrick Canyon Trail Center, there are twenty tent and nineteen Wood and charcoal fires are prohibited. of El Paso, and 65 miles north of Van Horn Distance: to Pratt Cabin 4.8 miles roundtrip, RV campsites (including a wheelchair ac- Camp stoves are allowed. Pack out all your on Highway 54 and Highway 62/180. Open to the Grotto, 6.8 miles roundtrip cessible tent site) available on a first-come, trash. Pets are not allowed on park trails. every day except December 25. Open daily Difficulty: Moderate, level but rocky trail, first-served basis . Two group campsites are 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. (Mountain Time 200' elevation gain to Grotto. available for groups of 10-20 people. Reser- Preparation is the key to an enjoyable back- Zone). Information, natural history exhibits, vations (for group sites only) can be made packing trip. Be prepared for changing introductory slide program. Follow an intermittent stream through the by phoning 915-828-3251 x2124 up to two weather conditions. Carry plenty of water— desert and canyon woodlands to the his- months in advance. Campers planning on there are no water sources in the backcoun- Frijole Ranch History Museum toric Pratt Cabin. A guidebook is available day hiking in McKittrick Canyon, to Guada- try. Topographic maps, hikers’ guides, and The ranch house features exhibits describ- at the trailhead. The Grotto Picnic Area and lupe Peak or the Bowl will want to stay here. information can be found at the Pine Springs ing historic and current use of the Guada- Hunter Line Cabin are one mile beyond the Visitor Center and the Dog Canyon Ranger lupes. Grounds include a picnic area near Pratt Cabin. Please do not drink the water Dog Canyon Campground Station. a spring shaded by large oak trees. Open or wade in the creek. To protect this fragile Located at the end of New Mexico Highway intermittently. environment, you are required to stay on the 137, 70 miles from Carlsbad and 110 miles Horseback Riding trail. from Park Headquarters, at an elevation of Sixty percent of the park’s trails are open to McKittrick Canyon 6,290' in a secluded, forested canyon on the stock use. A backcountry permit is required Highway entrance gate is open 8:00 a.m. to Guadalupe Peak Trail for all stock use. These free permits are is- 4:30 p.m. Mountain Standard Time. During north side of the park. The campground has sued at the Pine Springs Visitor Center and Daylight Savings Time, hours are expanded Distance: 8.4 miles nine tent and four RV campsites (including Dog Canyon Ranger Station. Stock riding is 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Restrooms, outdoor Difficulty: Strenuous. Approximately 3,000' a wheelchair accessible tent site). There is limited to day trips only. exhibits, slide program, picnic tables. elevation gain, steep, rocky path. one group site for groups of 10-20 people. Reservations for the group site only can be Hike Safely... Stock corrals are available at Dog Canyon and Hike to the “Top of Texas” at 8,751' for spec- • There is no water available along made up to two months in advance by call- near Frijole Ranch. Each has four pens and park trails, so be sure to bring plenty tacular views. Avoid the peak during high ing 915-828-3251 x2124. will accommodate a maximum of 10 animals. with you. One gallon per person per winds and thunderstorms. During warm Reservations may be made two months in day is recommended. temperatures, carry a gallon of water per advance by calling 915-828-3251 ext. 2124. • Trails are rocky—wear sturdy shoes. person. Trekking poles are recommended. • Carry a trail map. • Pack warm clothing and rain gear; other popular hikes... sudden weather changes are com- Trailhead Trail Distance Description mon. Roundtrip Pine Springs Devil’s Hall Trail 4.2 miles Moderate to Strenuous. Hike in Pine Spring Canyon to the Hikers’ Staircase and Devil’s Hall. Protect the Park... After the first mile, the trail drops into the wash and becomes very rocky and uneven. Turn left • Stay on trails; don’t cut across and follow the canyon bottom to the Hiker’s Staircase and beyond to the Devil’s Hall. Area be- switchbacks or create new trails. yond Devil’s Hall closed March - August due to sensitive species. • Carry out all trash, including ciga- rette butts. The Bowl 8.5 miles Strenuous. The Bowl shelters a highcountry conifer forest. Recommended route: Tejas Trail, • Report any trail hazards to the Pine Bowl Trail, Hunter Peak, Bear Canyon Trail, Frijole Trail, Tejas Trail (.1mile) back to campground. Springs Visitor Center or any park Trail climbs 2,500'. Bear Canyon Trail is very rocky and extremely steep. staff member. El Capitán Trail 11.3 miles Moderate to Strenuous. Desert lovers will appreciate the rocky arroyos and open vistas while • Collecting of natural, historic or skirting along the base of El Capitán. Recommended route: El Capitán Trail, Salt Basin Overlook, prehistoric objects is prohibited. and return to Pine Springs on the El Capitán Trail. Frijole Ranch Manzanita Spring .4 miles Easy. Path is paved and wheelchair accessible. Hike to a small pond that serves as a desert oasis. Weather Dragonflies, butterflies, and birds are active here in the warmer months. During winter, bluebirds frequent the area. Opportunities for chancing upon other wildlife are higher here as well. Average Average Smith Spring Trail 2.3 miles Moderate. Look for birds, deer and elk as you pass Manzanita Spring on the way to the shady Temperature (° F) Rainfall (entire loop) oasis of Smith Spring. Trees around Smith Spring include madrones, maples, oaks, chokecherry, High Low Inches ponderosa pines and others. Jan 56 34 0.67 McKittrick McKittrick Nature 0.9 miles Moderate. Climb the foothills and learn about the natural history of the Chihuahuan Desert. Feb 59 36 0.90 Canyon Loop Trailside exhibits. Mar 65 41 0.58 Permian Reef Trail 8.4 miles Strenuous. For serious geology buffs, this trail has stop markers that can be used with a geol- Apr 73 48 0.60 ogy guidebook sold at the Visitor Center. There are excellent views into McKittrick Canyon from May 82 56 0.91 the ridgetop. Trail climbs 2,000'. June 88 62 2.18 Dog Canyon Indian Meadow 0.6 miles Easy. Enjoy a stroll around a meadow frequented by a variety of birds and other wildlife. Along Nature Loop the way you will see evidence of recent fires and regrowth. July 88 64 2.37 Marcus Overlook 4.6 miles Moderate. Follow the Bush Mountain Trail to the ridgetop for a view into West Dog Canyon. Aug 86 63 3.29 Trail climbs 800'. Sep 81 58 2.54 Lost Peak 6.4 miles Strenuous. Climb out of Dog Canyon on the Tejas Trail to visit the conifer forest above. Out- Oct 73 50 1.34 standing views from Lost Peak. Lost Peak is a short distance off trail to the right, before the Nov 63 41 0.97 horse hitches. Trail climbs 1,500'. Dec 56 33 1.05 Salt Basin Salt Basin Dunes 3-4 miles Moderate. Follow the old roadbed from the parking area, for a little over a mile, to the north Average annual precipitation 17.4 Dunes (Day Use Only) end of the dune field. There is one high dune to ascend that some may find difficult. No shade. for Pine Springs (1980-2003) Enjoy the contrast of the pure white dunes with the sheer cliffs of the the Guadalupes as a back- drop. Great for sunrise or sunset hikes all year, and daytime hikes during the winter.

4 Visitor Guide Hiker Safety for Different Weather Conditions Cold

Lightning Heat NPS Photo/Michael Haynie

Lightning may be the most awesome hazard The body balances heat loss against heat faced by hikers. In our area, storms are gain to keep the core body temperature common from May through September, and within narrow limits. With strenuous exer- usually occur in the late afternoon or early cise in hot climates, heat gain can exceed evening. You can estimate the distance of a loss. Core temperatures may rise, sometimes lightning strike in miles by counting the time to dangerous levels. Dehydration exacer- in seconds between flash and sound and bates heat illness. dividing by five. Heat Exhaustion develops over hours due The effects of being close to a lightning to water and electrolyte loss from sweating; strike may be minor, such as confusion, it causes collapse or gradual exhaustion with amnesia, numbness, tingling, muscle pain, an inability to continue to exercise. Symp- temporary loss of hearing or sight, and loss toms include headache, dizziness, fatigue, of consciousness. Severe injuries include nausea, vomiting, muscle cramps, rapid burns, paralysis, coma, and cardiac arrest. pulse, thirst and profuse sweating, goose- Since injuries may not be obvious initially— flesh, chills, and pale skin, and low blood burns and cardiac injury may not appear pressure—the victim may faint. until 24 hours after the lightning strike— medical observation is recommended for all Heatstroke occurs in people who undertake lightning victims. heavy exertion in hot climates, and results in sudden collapse with extreme elevation Decrease your risk of injury of body temperature, decreased mental NPS Photo/Michael Haynie from lightning: status, and shock. It is a medical emergency Hypothermia is a cooling of the body core during exercise; try to avoid sweating by • Get an early start so that you can finish that can kill; begin treatment immediately. when more heat is lost than is produced, wearing ventilated clothing. Watch for early your hike before storms erupt. Symptoms include headache, drowsiness, and can be life threatening. Wetness and signs of hypothermia, and act promptly • Be aware of current and predicted irritability, unsteadiness, confusion, convul- wind are a lethal combination that chill a to avert it. Gauge the day’s activity to the weather. Watch the sky for develop- sions, coma, a rapid pulse and low blood person more rapidly than dry cold. Hy- party’s weakest member; children are more ment of anvil-shaped cumulus clouds. pressure, and either dry or sweat-moistened pothermia can occur in any season of the prone to hypothermia than adults. Being If a storm is building, descend to lower hot skin. year: the hiker exposed to a sudden summer exhausted, hungry, dehydrated, or demoral- elevations. hailstorm while wearing only a T-shirt and ized prevents a proper response to cold and • If a storm occurs, seek shelter. A car or Prevention shorts is more likely to become hypothermic hastens the onset of hypothermia. large building offers good protection. Drink plenty of water when exercising in than a well-dressed winter hiker. Windchill Tents offer no protection. hot weather, before feeling thirsty and after adds to the problem, but affects only the ex- Treatment • Turn off cell phones and other elec- feeling satisfied. Drink enough to produce posed parts of the body. Wearing windproof • Do not delay. tronic equipment. clear urine regularly during the day. Eat high clothing reduces the effects of windchill. • Find shelter out of the wind. • If totally in the open, avoid single trees. carbohydrate foods for energy. Avoid heavy • Remove wet clothes and replace with Stay off exposed ridges. exercise in high temperatures and high Signs of mild hypothermia include progres- dry; add layers and a wool cap to in- • When caught in heavy lightning, the humidity. Wear light-colored clothes that sively worsening shivering, uncharacteristic crease insulation. best stance is to crouch with feet close fit loosely and cover all sun-exposed skin behavior, grumbling about feeling cold, • Give food and warm, sweet drinks. together, minimizing the opportunity surface. Avoid alcohol and caffeine; both inappropriate excitement or lethargy, poor • If the victim is shivering strongly, place for ground currents to find a path increase loss of fluid. judgement, confusion, and hallucinations. victim inside a sleeping bag well-insu- through the body. Crouch on a dry The victim may experience stiff muscles and lated from the ground. sleeping pad, if available. Treatment cramps, uncoordinated movements, and • If the victim responds to rest and • Stay out of shallow caves or overhangs. • Have the victim rest in the shade. stumbling. Skin will be cold, pale and blue- warmth, he may be able to continue Large dry caves which are deeper than • Remove excess clothing. gray due to constricted blood vessels. hiking. their width offer some protection; but • Wet the victim to increase evaporation. • For severe hypothermia, provide heat do not lean against walls. Adopt the • Have the victim drink fluids; if avail- As hypothermia becomes severe, shivering to the victim’s trunk after rescue by feet-together crouch. able, add 1/4 teaspoon salt and 6 tea- ceases. The victim’s behavior changes from whatever means are available—body- • Valleys and ditches offer some protec- spoons sugar to 1 quart of water. erratic to apathetic to unresponsive. The to-body contact, hot water bottles, tion. Avoid a depression with a stream. • In serious cases, begin immediate, pulse becomes weak, slow, and irregular. chemical heating pads, hot rocks • In forests, seek low spots under thick rapid cooling by one of these methods: Breathing slows, pupils become dilated. wrapped in clothing. Place the heat growth or smaller trees. a) Increase evaporation by sprinkling Eventually the victim will slip into a coma. sources in the groin and armpits and • Avoid standing water, fences, power water on the skin and fanning vigorously. alongside the neck. Always have cloth- lines, and pipelines. Discard metal hik- b) Immerse the victim’s body in cool water. Prevention ing between a heat source and the skin ing sticks. c) Place cold packs on the neck, Know the weather forecast; carry appro- to prevent burns. • Groups should not huddle together. abdomen, armpits, and groin. priate extra clothing, such as a water/wind • Never leave a hypothermic victim Scatter so if one person is injured, the • Stop cooling when mental status im- repellent shell, jacket, hat and mittens, and alone. others can help—stay at least 30 feet proves. Continue to monitor the victim. a space blanket or tarp for shelter. Evapora- • Contact a park ranger for assistance. apart. • Contact a park ranger for assistance. tion of sweat is a major source of heat loss Help Protect the Park and Leave Rocks Unstacked

Is this stack of stones Dating back to prehistoric times, rock However, in recent years, unauthorized of our wild lands. By adding to cairns or cairns have been used around the world to rock cairn building has become an epi- building new ones, well-meaning hikers are an important hiking mark trails and historic moments in history. demic! altering the landscape, increasing the rate of tool or a long-lasting Most of our National Park sites mark trails erosion, and possibly leading people astray. disturbance of the by placing rock cairns sparingly along the Hikers wanting to mark their personal pas- paths. These cairns are placed so that from sage by building their own cairns, adding Please help keep your National Parks wild environment? one stack, hikers can see the next cairn and to an existing rock cairn, or marking alter- and naturally beautiful by leaving the stones navigate safely. native paths are aiding in the destruction where they lie.

Visitor Guide 5 Hiker Safety & Wildlife Mountain Lions If a lion is sighted, there are When you hike in mountain lion country: Travel in groups. Lions may key in on easy prey, like small children. Make sure children With their large size and very long tails, several things to remember: are close to you and within your sight at all times—do not let children run ahead of mountain lions are unmistakable. Adult • Do not approach a lion, especially one adults! Talk with children about lions and teach them what to do if they meet one. males may be more than 8 feet in length that is feeding or with kittens. Most and weigh an average of 150 pounds. Adult mountain lions will try to avoid con- females may be up to 7 feet long and weigh frontation. Give them a way to escape. an average of 90 pounds. Their • Stay calm; speak calmly yet firmly. tracks show 4 toes with 3 distinct lobes Move slowly. Avoid prolonged direct present at the base of the pad, which is eye contact. generally greater than 1.5 inches wide. • Face the lion and stand upright. Do all Claw marks are usually not visible since you can to appear larger. Raise your their claws are retractable. arms, or open your jacket. • Protect small children by picking them Mountain lions take their prey, usually up so they won’t panic and run. deer, by ambush. After spotting prey, a lion • Back away slowly, if you can do it safely. stalks using available cover, then attacks Do not run! Running may stimulate a with a rush, often from behind. They usu- lion’s instinct to chase and attack. ally kill with a powerful bite below the base • If the lion behaves aggressively, throw of the skull, breaking the neck, then drag stones, branches or whatever you can the carcass to a sheltered spot beneath a get your hands on without crouching tree or overhang to feed on it. Often they down or turning your back. Wave your cover the carcass with dirt or leaves and arms slowly and speak firmly. What you may return to feed on it over the course of want to do is convince the lion that you a few days. are not prey and that you may in fact be a danger to the lion. Although no one has had a physical en- • Fight back if a lion attacks you. People counter with a mountain lion at Guadalupe have fought back successfully with Mountains National Park, sightings have rocks, sticks, jackets, and their bare become more frequent in the last few years. hands. Protect your head and neck with Lions have increasingly shown more curi- your arms. Remain standing or try to osity about people and less fear. Even with get back up. this increased lion activity, your chance of • Please report all mountain lion sightseeing one of these elusive creatures is ex- ings to a park ranger. tremely low. A few simple precautions may reduce the risk of a dangerous encounter. Rattlesnakes Rattlesnakes are the only venomous snakes found in the Guadalupe Mountains. They are recognized by the triangular, flat head, wider than the neck; vertical, elliptical pupils, and a heat-sensitive “pit” located between the eye and the nostril. Rattles are generally present, but may be broken off.

To avoid rattlesnake bites, stay on trails where you are more easily able to see a snake. Watch where you put your hands and feet; look around before sitting down. If you see a rattlesnake, leave it alone. Alert other members of your party. Do not attempt to move it; simply walk around it and continue your hike.

Do not use these methods to treat a snakebite: —a tourniquet, which causes severe damage if wound too tightly. —cold or ice; it does not inactivate the venom and poses a frostbite hazard. —the “cut-and-suck” method; it can damage blood vessels and nerves. —mouth suction; your mouth is filled with bacteria, and you may infect the wound. —electric shock; no medical studies support this method. —alcoholic beverages, which dilate vessels and compound shock. Rattlesnakes are protected in National Parks; —aspirin, which increases bleeding. it is illegal to harm them. First aid for a snakebite: • Get the victim away from the snake. • Use a sling or a splint to immobilize the • If there are immediate, severe symp- cause infection and should be treated Rattlesnakes strike across a distance limb loosely; keep it below the level of toms, keep the victim quiet; activity by a physician. equal to half their body length and can the heart. increases venom absorption. Have • Transport the victim to a medical facil- bite more than once. Do not attempt to • Look for signs of envenomation: severe someone contact a ranger as soon as ity where antivenin is available. The capture or kill the snake. burning pain at the bite site; swelling possible to begin evacuation. closest facility to the park is Carlsbad • Remove constrictive jewelry such as starting within 5 minutes and progress- • If there is no immediate reaction, you Medical Center, at the north end of rings and watches. ing up the limb (swelling may continue may choose to walk slowly with the vic- Carlsbad, New Mexico on US 285 • Suction with a venom extractor is only to advance for several hours); discolor- tim to the trailhead. Begin evacuation as (2430 West Pierce); driving time is 1½ minimally effective and must be started ation and blood-filled blisters develop- quickly as possible; contact a ranger for hours from Pine Springs. within two to three minutes. Do not at- ing in 6 to 48 hours; and in severe cases, assistance. If evacuation is prolonged tempt oral suction or incising the skin. nausea, vomiting, sweating, weakness, and there are no symptoms after six to bleeding, coma, and death. In 25% of eight hours, there has probably been no rattlesnake bites, no venom is injected. envenomation. However, all bites can

To avoid rattlesnake bites, stay on trails where you are more easily able to see a snake.

6 Visitor Guide Wildland Caving Opportunities on the Lincoln National Forest

By Brad Bolton Imagine starting out on a caving trip to Lincoln Do you like a challenge and to National Forest; things can be very different. to travel where you rely on your own wits Like many national forests, primitive roads and physical strength to climb and negotiate provide driving access into some very remote through cave passages? For folks who really areas. These roads can be extremely rough; enjoy ‘wild caving’-type of trips, there are many many folks opt to get out and hike along the adventures to be found in nearby Lincoln beautiful ridgetops. Primitive camping is al- National Forest. lowed almost everywhere and car camping is allowed within 300’ of most roads. After find- The Lincoln National Forest manages nu- ing the perfect campsite high in the Guadalupe merous caves, many of which are in the same Mountains, the next task is actually finding mountains shared with the two national parks. the caves themselves. There are no established While nothing can compare to Carlsbad Cav- trails that take visitors to wild caves, so finding erns, many Forest Service caves are spectacular, the cave entrance can be an extensive search unique, and world-renowned for exquisite along the side of a steep canyon, with the formations. In addition, many caves have verti- added challenges of orienteering and following cal entrances requiring rappeling and rope maps. To help groups find caves and promote work to enter! New discoveries are made yearly conservation, Lincoln National Forest facili- as scientists come to the Lincoln to study the tates a public trip leader program. Members of geology and biology of caves. The caves are in the NSS with extensive cave experience lead a completely natural setting nestled in the high others to find new adventures. mountains and deep canyons. Visiting caves in the Lincoln National Forest can be challenging If ‘wild caving’ sounds like fun, there is an easy and remote, requiring specialized equipment, way to get started right where you live. There weeks of planning, and extensive training. are caving clubs called “Grottos” located across the country as part of the National Speleo- Below ground, management of backcountry logical Society. Finding and contacting one of caves is very similar for the different agencies. these Grottos is a click away at www.caves. That is because the same 1988 Cave Protection org. There you will find a U.S. map and contact Act is the federal law that requires manage- information for caving enthusiasts from across ment of significant caves for all national parks the country. The National Speleological Society and national forests. Lincoln National Forest is a great partner organization and NSS Grottos promotes conservation by facilitating a back- provide the necessary training and education country cave permit system, and by coordinat- needed for visiting the backcountry caves of ing volunteers from the National Speleological Lincoln National Forest. Society (NSS) who monitor the caves for research, wildlife conservation, and preventing Visiting caves on the Lincoln National Forest can be challenging and remote, requiring specialized equip- misuse. ment, weeks of planning, and extensive training. Sitting Bull Falls (Lincoln National Forest)

By Jerermy Evans The Guadalupe Mountains sit on the northern Come and enjoy Sitting Bull Falls and The Guadalupe Ranger District, edge of the Chihuahuan Desert and have a rich the surrounding area. Take a hike on the the southern-most district of the Lincoln and diverse geologic and archaeological his- National Forest, has many spectacular rec- tory. American Indians first came into the area many trails or relax and have a picnic reation opportunities. Remote, quiet and around 10,000 years ago and the Mescalero with your family. Whatever you decide mysterious, the District beckons the visitor Apache called this area their home for many, to do, your adventure to the Guadalupe to explore this unique desert landscape. The many years. Spanish explorers came to the area Guadalupe Ranger District shares its southern in the 1500s; the horses they brought proved Ranger District will be memorable. Don’t boundary with two national parks: Guadalupe to be very valuable to the Apache. By the mid- forget to come prepared. Bring plenty of Mountains and Carlsbad Caverns. Hiking, 1800s explorers, settlers, ranchers, business- camping, hunting, bird watching, and horse- men, cattleman, and outlaws had migrated water and pay attention! Deer, javelina, back riding are just some of the incredible into the area. Because of the rough and remote mountain lions, snakes, tarantulas, rab- activities that can be enjoyed on the district. terrain, the Guadalupe Mountains were settled bits, and many other animal species call One of the recreational highlights is Sitting Bull very slowly. Falls Recreation Area. It sits at the end of a long the area home. If you decide to go out remote canyon and has a series of waterfalls In the 1930’s, the Civilian Conservation Corps and explore the backcountry, please go (fed from springs atop the canyon) that create was assigned to the area and built impres- prepared; the weather in this area can a large pool of water at the base of the falls, 150 sive stone structures that still stand today as feet from top to bottom. The Sitting Bull Falls the picnic sites at Sitting Bull Falls. The 1970s be unpredictable and so can the wildlife! Recreation Area meets ADA guidelines for ushered in a little more development: crews Please be safe and accessibility and some of the features include installed vault restrooms, added more cabanas paved sidewalks, restrooms, picnic tables, rock and improved the trail to the falls. In the 1980s, enjoy YOUR national forest. cabanas, fresh water, trash containers, and a a route to the top of the falls was built by the viewing deck of the waterfall. Youth Conservation Corps. Then on Easter It is a day-use area open from 9 - 5 daily (Octo- If you have questions, please visit the Guada- Sunday of 2011, the Last Chance Fire burned ber to March) or 8:30 - 6 (April to September); lupe Ranger District office at 5203 Buena Vista Sitting Bull Falls and the surrounding land- through the area, severely damaging the picnic the standard amenity fee is a bargain at $5 per Drive in Carlsbad or call 575-885-4181. scape are the remnants of an ancient reef cabanas and destroying the trees and vegeta- vehicle. Visitors can wade in the water below known as Capitan Reef. Approximately 260 tion. Sitting Bull Falls was closed for a year the falls, hike, or picnic. The picnic sites have Sitting Bull Falls is approximately 42 miles west million years ago, the area was on the edge of while repairs were made; once reopened, tables and grills, but you’ll need to bring your of Carlsbad, New Mexico and can be reached a huge inland sea. The predominant geology the area was damaged again by a flood event own charcoal and be aware of any fire danger by car via Highway 285 to Highway 137 and of the area is limestone and is full of fissures in September of 2013. Another flood in 2014 warnings. Many of the picnic sites provide then Forest Road 276 / County Road 409. Pets and caves that were slowly eroded by acidic delayed reconstruction efforts. Finally, by May overhead shelter from the sun’s rays that bear on leashes are allowed. water over long periods of time. Deep and 2015, all reconstruction and repairs were com- down on the area most of the day. Fresh water rough canyons were carved by annual flooding pleted. A new walkway was built, which leads and restroom facilities are available. There is a and rains. Other geologic forces have created to a viewing deck and a bird’s-eye view of the paved, ADA accessible path to the falls viewing picturesque valleys teeming with wildlife and falls. The entrance road to the well-known site area. Camping is not allowed in the falls day those forces, over time, helped create the un- was reconstructed and “re-paved” the way to a use area, but is allowed almost anywhere else derground water reservoirs and springs that whole new experience! on the Guadalupe Ranger District. feed into Sitting Bull Falls.

Visitor Guide 7 Nearby Attractions

brantley lake state park Lincoln National Forest (Guadalupe District) 575-457-2384 575-885-4181 www.emnrd.state.nm.us/SPD/brantley- Open all year—24 hours/day. www.fs.usda.gov/lincoln/home Five Points & Indian Vistas lakestatepark.html Wheelchair accessible. The forest encompasses 1,103,441 acres for Eleven miles south of State Highway 137 on Located 12 miles north of Carlsbad on hiking, caving, camping, picnicking, horse- Forest Route 540, an improved gravel road. U.S. Highway 285, the campground has 51 Fees back riding, hunting and sightseeing. Maps A panoramic view of the desert from the RV sites with water and RV electric hook- Day Use Only—$5.00 per vehicle are available at the Guadalupe Ranger Dis- top of the Guadalupe Mountains. Interpre- ups (a few with sewer), a dump station, Camping—$14.00 per night ($10.00 for each trict Office located at 5203 Buena Vista Drive tive signs explain natural features. playground, restroom with hot showers, additional vehicle driven into the same site) Carlsbad, NM 88220. shelters, tables and grills. Other facilities Primitive Camping Area—$8.00 per vehicle include picnic areas with sheltered tables per night. and grills, playground, a fishing dock, boat ramps with docks, and a visitor center. bureau of land management (blm) La Cueva Non-Motorized Trail System Living Desert zoo & gardens State Park 575-234-5972 The trail system contains more than 15 miles 575-887-5516 Open daily except December 25. www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/fo/Carlsbad_Field_ of maintained trails. The non-motorized www.emnrd.state.nm.us/SPD/livingdesert- Wheelchair accessible. Office trails are used by mountain bikers, hikers, statepark.html Black River Recreation Area and equestrians. The trails wind through the Come face to face with a mountain lion at Summer Hours This 1,200 acre oasis in the Chihuahuan rolling limestone foothills of the Guadalupe this unique zoo and botanical garden of- (Memorial Day to Labor Day) Des575ert is home to rare species of plants, Mountains and the rugged Chihuahuan fering an opportunity to experience the 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. fish, and reptiles in and around the river. Desert environment. Chihuahuan Desert first-hand. See a large Last tour entry—3:30 p.m. The most frequently visited site is the Cot- collection of live animals, including the rare tonwood Day Use Area, which includes The area is located partially within the city Mexican gray wolf, and the roadrunner, the Winter Hours (after Labor Day) a wildlife viewing platform, picnic tables, limits of Carlsbad, NM. From Lea Street, go state bird of New Mexico. There is also an 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and a toilet. Turn west onto CR418, travel west to Standpipe Rd. Turn south and travel unusual collection of cacti and other succu- Last tour entry—3:30 p.m. two miles, and then turn left at the fork. 3 miles to the gravel access road. Turn right lents from around the world. and travel approximately 0.3 miles to the Fees trailhead and parking area. There are no facili- The park is located high atop the Ocotillo Ages 13 and up $5.00 ties other than the parking area and trail signs. Hills overlooking the northwest edge of Children 7 - 12 $3.00 Carlsbad caverns national park Carlsbad, just off U.S. Highway 285, and Children 6 and under free 575-785-2232 Carlsbad Caverns National Park features a features exhibits, an art gallery, gift shop, Group (20+) discount available. www.nps.gov/cave immense cave system of highly decorated and refreshments. Visitor Center chambers, and from mid-May to mid-Oc- 727 Carlsbad Caverns Highway tober, a spectacular batflight each evening. Carlsbad, NM 88220 Visit the website for the latest information on hours of operation.

8 Visitor Guide