8 INNEAPOLIS' Since the Rail Corridor Was

Home , Greenway (landscape), Midtown Greenway

8 rails to trails u

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DAVE GLAD SUPER SUPER HIGHWAY The MidtownThe Greenway: S it sideways. >> it sideways. a wickedwindisblowing is pouringfrom theskyand Midtown Greenway, snow the city’s famed5.5-mile in January. Th edayIride is, Iarrive inMinneapolis dipping.Until,starts that bike whenthemercury cyclist whohangsupher my radar. I’m afair-weather the snow hasnever crossed Suﬃce tosaythatcycling in By Karen Asp Karen By rails to trails u

winter.13 9 ELLIE KINGSBURY; INSET: KROACH/VEER ail y. 35 tr w ake k cedar l P

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You also have to credit the Midtown Greenway, which has been dubbed the “superhighway of cyclists,” for making commuting easier. Between 4,000 and 5,000 people use the trail every day on average, amounting to a whopping 1.5 million trips a year. “Th ere’s actually a rush hour on the trail, especially in summer,” says Soren Jensen, executive director of the Midtown Greenway Coalition, a nonprofi t organiza- tion that advocated for creation of the trail and now works to improve it. He bikes to work every day, no matter the weather. Th e Greenway is now one of the state’s

TIM SPRINGERTIM ELLIE KINGSBURY busiest trails. Granted, its location makes it ideal for bike and foot traﬃ c. Th e trail runs I shouldn’t be surprised. After all, I am highest population of bike commuters in on an east-west path through Minneapolis, in a city where January temperatures hov- the nation, behind Portland, Ore. which boasts 167 miles of bikeways. To er around 13 degrees, and average season- Why such a high number? Ask Derek the west, it connects with paths around al snowfall totals about 50 inches. Here’s Olson, who rides the Greenway daily the city’s Chain of Lakes (where there are the catch, though: I’m visiting during the and doesn’t own a car. He’ll tell you that numerous walking and cycling trails), while Winter Th at Never Was, Minneapolis cycling is simply cheaper and more prac- to the east it off ers access to paths along the racking up just over 20 inches of snow. tical than driving. “I can get anywhere Mississippi River. Ironically, while the snow catches me downtown faster on a bike than in a car, Yet the Greenway has other unique off guard, that’s not the real surprise. and I don’t have to fi nd a place to park a draws. For starters, the railway corridor Instead, it’s the number of other people car,” he says. was dug as a trench about 100 years ago. on the rail-trail. I count at least 20 in my 90-minute trek on the Midtown Greenway, most of them sporting ski goggles and riding bikes with chunky snow tires. Turns out that Minneapolis has a long- standing love aff air with the bike, which may explain why it was recently named Bicycling magazine’s top bike-friendly city. Between 2007 and 2011, bike traﬃ c in Minneapolis grew by 47 percent, many of these cyclists ditching four wheels for two. In fact, Minneapolis has the second-

10 railstotrails u winter.13 ail y. 35 tr w ake k cedar l P

Midtown od wo l n kenwood Franklin Ave. S.E. Greenway i e 94 a K park r 55 94 t h t W. Franklin Ave. E. Franklin Ave. East Rive Total trail length: r

. hiawatha lrt trail 94 o

y Map Illustration 5.5 miles w Seabury A w

k r Pkwy

P a

i Trail surface: s t

n e

by Danielle Marks l . o e

Asphalt s MINNEAPOLIS ve. s I k e e W. 24th St. E. 24th St. h n t Other trails Cedar Minnehaha A M f 26th A Bloomington A 18th A 27th A

29th A n o e. 30th A

re v Ri pi i s s i s s i i Danielle Marks Design Lake e Av k

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a St. West River Pkwy e W. 28th St. midtown greenway E. 28th St . field

D nice Av [email protected] Map for reference only. coalition office H e.

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Originally, the Greenway was part of the Battling the Elements and walkers/runners, and I’m making Milwaukee Railroad’s main line to the While I’m a fanatic about cross-country a squiggly line through the snow. I can West Coast, which began running in skiing, especially when the snow is falling, see, though, that I’m below the road, the 1882. By 1912, the railway was encoun- I’m not sure how I feel about getting out trench carved gracefully on both sides of tering so much traffi c that the city asked on a bike in this winter weather. I con- me, and, when I pass under numerous the railroad to place the rail line in a clude that I must be made of less hearty bridges, I welcome the relief, albeit tem- trench. By 1993, rail traffi c had slowed stock than these Minnesotans. porary, from the pelting snow. signifi cantly, and the Hennepin County Several of these diehards have congre- Even under these conditions, I’m Regional Railroad Authority (HCRRA) gated at Freewheel Midtown Bike Center, impressed with how well this trail is purchased the corridor for future light a bike shop and café on the Greenway maintained. Although the corridor rail. As a result of the original design, where I’m renting a bike on this day. is operated by the city, the Midtown though, much of the Greenway lies below Th ey’re clad in winter bike gear, many Greenway Coalition has several volunteer street level, meaning trail users are largely holding cups of Peace Coff ee, a popular committees that manage diff erent aspects isolated from car traffi c and rarely have to Minneapolis brew. A few are munching of the trail. cross streets. lunch—the café serves fresh salads, many One committee, for instance, is Th e trail, which is open 24 hours a of them gluten-free and vegetarian, and charged with creating green spaces day, year-round, is also well lit and safe. sandwiches made with local meats and along the trail, and they’re making good Security cameras are posted in strategic produce—while others are relaxing in headway. One large green space recently locations along the paved path, and a chairs. opened, and the committee has plans to volunteer group called Trail Watch polices I ask Mario Macaruso, Freewheel’s café add more. Plus, through an Arbor Day the Greenway daily to protect the public. manager, why people seem so enthusiastic project, more than 4,000 trees have been And when the snow fl ies? “Th e city about pedaling through the winter ele- planted along the Greenway. Another plows this trail faster than the streets,” ments. Macaruso off ers an angle I would committee is working to add more public Jensen says. On the rare occasions when never have considered. “It’s warmer to art, with the long-term goal of acquiring the Greenway hasn’t gotten plowed, peo- ride a bike than drive a car,” he says. and commissioning permanent artwork ple are quick to vent their frustrations. I try to remember his comment as I along the corridor. wheel myself to the Greenway and begin Th e trail hasn’t always looked this pedaling toward the trail’s signature sight, good, however. In fact, when George the Martin Olav Sabo Bridge, a cable Puzak, a long-time cycling and environ- bridge erected to eliminate the need for mental advocate in Minneapolis, fi rst bikers and pedestrians to cross a busy thought about turning this former rail- Ben Ortega braves intersection. road corridor into a recreational trail in deep snowdrifts and brutal cold—familiar I’m thankful the trail is fl at, as the the early 1990s, the place was a dump. factors along the trail snow is beginning to accumulate, adding Literally. “It was fi lled with litter, shop- in Minneapolis, where resistance to my ride. I’m also grateful ping carts, couches, tires, needles—any- winter temperatures the crowds aren’t numbering in the thou- thing people could dump, it was there,” are often in the teens, sands today, for I’m having trouble seeing Puzak says. and an average of 50 inches of snow blanket the lane designated for cyclists. Th ere In spite of its fi lth, Puzak recognized

the city every year. ELLIE KINGSBURY are lanes in each direction for cyclists the promise and the positive impact of

railstotrails u winter.13 11 TRAVEL FACTS

the corridor. He used to visit frequently about the Sabo Bridge, an architectural Feel like checking out the Midtown and enjoyed listening to the sounds of masterpiece, and I’m worried the snow Greenway? Here’s the scoop on where birds. “I’d see couples on the bridges might not allow me to explore the whole to stay, eat and play in Minneapolis: overhead, looking out at this corridor, trail, which is why I turn left out of the even though it was fi lled with trash, and store to see the bridge fi rst. WHERE TO STAY: If you want to be embracing each other,” he says. Th e Sabo Bridge is indeed one of the within walking distance of the trail, Puzak was so convinced that a rec- trail’s highlights. It’s a beautiful piece of check into the Sheraton Minneapolis reational path could work there that he architecture with a curved ramp for easy Midtown Hotel (612.821.7600; began lobbying for it all over the city. access. Shortly after crossing the bridge, He drafted a letter about the whys and I arrive at the end of the trail and turn www.sheraton.com/minneapolis). hows behind the trail and sent it to neigh- back, passing Freewheel as I explore the If you prefer to stay downtown borhood groups along the railway corridor other half of the trail. (you can drive or take a cab to the and to city and county elected offi cials. Truth be told, I’m at a disadvantage trail), consider The Grand Hotel He showed up at festivals with handouts riding through a storm, for the snow (866.THE.GRAND; www.grandhotel that detailed his vision and gave talks to encloses me in a blinding sheet of white. minneapolis.com), a Kimpton any group that would listen. Numerous residential areas fl ank the boutique hotel that offers such Along the way, Puzak collected his own trail—the Greenway runs through nine, perks as a complimentary wine hour army of volunteers, some of whom were with seven more a block away, includ- every evening and free access to the avid cyclists, and the group began meet- ing a popular commercial district called Minneapolis Life Time Athletic Club. ing to discuss plans. Th is was the start of Uptown with many restaurants and Another bonus? Pets of all sizes stay the Midtown Greenway Coalition, which shops—and I pass places where I could for free and even get bowls, bed and incorporated as a nonprofi t in 1995. exit and explore these neighborhoods, but pick-up bags. Th e idea took time to grow legs. the snow doesn’t allow that luxury today. “Many people thought it was an impos- Nor does it allow for any good aromas sible dream because of the condition of the corridor and the resources we’d need to make it happen,” says Tim Springer. Former executive director of the Midtown Greenway Coalition, Springer helped Puzak lead the charge and set a goal to create a fast, safe and pleasant bikeway. Still, the coalition was confi dent. Minneapolis has a history of creating green corridors, and locals’ strong affi nity for open-air activities is legendary. “It’s tough to live here if you don’t enjoy doing something outdoors,” Puzak says. All of the eff orts paid off . Th e city petitioned—and received—funding from the Intermodal Surface Transportation Effi ciency Act, which allocates funds for transit projects. Using this money along with state and local dollars, the city began creating the Greenway, all the time working with the HCRRA. In 2000, the With the trail’s many downtown Midtown Greenway opened to the public. and neighborhood connections, don’t be Not Just a Superhighway, surprised to see folks But a Destination, Too hauling unconventional Th e bike center sits about halfway on the equipment, or even carrying out a home trail, so whether I turn right or left to start move via bicycles.

doesn’t really matter. I’ve heard so much SPRINGERTIM

12 railstotrails u winter.13 ELLIE KINGSBURY Midtown Greenway Trail Watchers

WHERE TO EAT: Don’t miss the Midtown Global Market (612.872.4041; www.mid townglobalmarket.org). Along with spe- cialty shops, you’ll find more than a dozen restaurants where you can sample eclectic fare. In the downtown area, try Barrio (612.333.9953; www.barriotequila.com) for Mexican tapas; The Local (612.904.1000; ELLIE KINGSBURY www.the-local.com), a hopping Irish bar; Hell’s Kitchen (612.332.4700; www. for vegetarians and vegans) at Pizza maximum of 24 hours; when you’re done, hellskitcheninc.com), revered for its break- Luce (612.333.7359; www.pizzaluce.com), return the bike to any Nice Ride station. fast (try the Mahnomin porridge and where the beer menu is as impressive as homemade peanut butter); or Keys at the the pizza. For more information about the Midtown Foshay (612.339.6399; www.keysfoshay. Greenway, contact the Midtown Greenway com) for delicious breakfasts (and free WHERE TO RENT BICYCLES: Pick up a Coalition at 612.879.0103 or visit www. cookie samples at the front door). Stop bike at Freewheel Midtown Bike Center midtowngreenway.org. You can also in at Ike’s Food & Cocktails (612.746.4537; (612.238.4447; www.freewheelbike.com). explore an interactive map, user reviews www.ilikeikes.com) for a cocktail at the If you’re visiting April through November, and photos, and loads of other trip- bar (it’s rumored to have tasty hamburg- you can also rent a bike at any of the planning information for the Greenway ers). Grab incredible pizza (or a salad, hoa- dozen-plus Nice Ride bicycle stations at www.TrailLink.com, Rails-to-Trails gie or pasta dish, with numerous options (877.551.6423; www.niceridemn.org) for a Conservancy’s free trail-finder website.

to waft through the air, as the trail runs and obstacle courses. In June, the coali- years, the coalition has been advocating parallel to Lake Street, lined with busi- tion hosted the first annual Greenway for a streetcar as the best green alterna- nesses, shops and restaurants. “There are Glow, where participants decorated their tive, the idea being that the tracks of the spots where you get whiffs from many bikes with lights—competing to see who streetcar would be embedded in grass and of these restaurants, which is one thing could get the most and the most creative the route designed to minimize impact I love about the Greenway,” Puzak says. lights on their bikes—and rode the trail. on the Greenway. Developers are also One of his favorite places is the Midtown The trail is doing its own growing, constructing more apartment buildings Global Market, an ethnic culinary center too. Public transportation along the along the trail. filled with shops and eateries. And he Greenway in the form of light rail, rapid By the time I return to Freewheel, I’m often stops for coffee at Freewheel. bus or streetcar is currently being evalu- covered in snow. But Macaruso was right: Jensen hopes more people will real- ated by Metro Transit, the transportation I’m so warm, I feel like I’ve just been run- ize that the trail is not just a commuting resource for the Twin Cities and one of ning in the Sahara. Who knows? After my highway. “We want people to slow down the country’s largest transit systems. For snow biking experience in Minneapolis, and enjoy the green spaces, art, businesses my own bike may make its winter debut and restaurants,” he says. “Rather than this year. I might even have to cart it to something to bike through, this trail is the Greenway to join the ranks of winter something to bike to where you could cycling diehards. spend the day.” To boost awareness of the trail as well Freelance journalist Karen Asp specializes in as Midtown Greenway Coalition mem- travel, fitness, health and nutrition. She’s the bership, which helps fund the trail (last co-author of Understanding Your Food Allergies winter, the coalition had more than 500 and Intolerances (St. Martin’s, 2012) and con- members, and it hopes to double that in tributing editor for Woman’s Day. She writes the next year), the coalition sponsors sev- regularly for numerous other publications, eral annual events. There’s a winter walk/ including Runner’s World, Delta Sky, Self, Real ride event, for example, and this year’s Simple, Redbook, Glamour, O, Health, Eating activities included bike-powered skijoring KARL STOERZINGER Well, Prevention and Whole Living.

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