SHIRAK Region (Shiraki Marz)

Travel Guide® – Special Edition

NATURAL With eight geographic zones, seven climate 250 mm (10 inches) a year in the lowlands to 550 ranges, nine altitudes, sixteen soil zones, half the mm (21 inches) in the mountains. At the same ARMENIA plant species in the Transcaucasus and two-thirds ECOLOGY time, ecosystems formed by large forests in of Europe’s bird species, Armenia’s small territory Northeastern and Southern Armenia produce their is a stunning biotops region. More varieties of GEOGRAPHY, CLIMATE own climates, so that the region around Haghbat By Rick Ney flora and fauna can be found per square kilometer Armenia’s rich diversity of terrain includes Dry and above Kapan can count on 50-60 inches of Maps by Rafael Torossian in Armenia than almost anywhere on earth. The Sub-Tropic, Mediterranean, Desert, Semi-Desert, precipitation annually. Most of the country's Edited by Bella Karapetian relative ease of exploring these often over-lapping Mountain Steppes, Mixed Forest, Sub-Alpine and precipitation comes from snowfall, which averages flora and fauna zones makes Natural Armenia a Alpine vegetation zones. These are further 100 cm (40 inches) in the middle mountain regions TABLE OF CONTENTS destination of its own. subdivided in to 17 specific vegetation zones. alone. There are even a few glaciers thrown in for extra INTRODUCTION (p. 4) measure in the upper altitudes. The area around Yerevan alone stretches over five vegetation zones, with a mixture of flora and fauna rarely GEOGRAPHY, CLIMATE (p. 4) seen elsewhere. MOUNTAINS (p. 5) Mountain List Topography The terrain was created by millions CAVING (p. 7) of years of volcanic and tectonic plate activity RIVERS, LAKES & SPRINGS (p. 7) which slowly enclosed a vast sea that once covered MINERALS (p. 9) the entire country up to the Sevan Mountain HUMAN ECOLOGY (p. 9) Range. In its earliest period (380 million years BCE), almost the entire Republic lay under water. REGIONAL ECOLOGIES (p. 11) Around 170 million years BCE volcanic activity ECOLOGICAL PROBLEMS (p. 18) began to from land masses and by 10 million years BCE the Geghama Lehr (Mountain Range) and the FLORA AND FAUNA mountains making up Southern Armenia were FLOWER ARMENIA (p. 19) formed. As recently as 500,000 years BCE (by

Flora Spring Tour (p. 21) which time Homo Sapiens had been inhabiting the Birding and Flower Watching have already put Armenia is protected from the harsh winter Flora Summer Tour (p. 22) area for at least 500,000 years), at least five Armenia on the map, with birders and flower volcanoes were still active: Aragats, Azhdahak, conditions of the Russian landmass by the FAUNA ARMENIA (p. 23) lovers coming from around the world. Trekkers Spitakasar, Vardenis and Astghonk. Northern Caucasus Mountains, and consequently Birding Armenia and Mountain Climbers can explore 85 mountains receives much of its weather from the Persian and Birds by Species (p. 24) over a mile high, in diverse ranges that cover and Syrian Plains. In wintertime, the Southern regions Birds by Habitat (p. 25) divide the country into micro-climates and and northernmost regions are thew warmest. Birding Spring Tour (p. 28) topographies. Mt. Aragats, Armenia's tallest While the mountains may be covered with snow, mountain, can be surmounted in a tight 6 week lower valleys are clear, getting their first spring OTHER FAUNA (p. 28) span of July to mid-August. flowers as early as the end of January. The southernmost area of the country is considered ECOTOURING (p. 29) For avid spelunkers, the most spectacular images Dry Subtropical: while Giumri is still receiving its in Armenia are underground, and with more than last winter snowfall in April, Meghri has begun its EXPLORING NATURAL ARMENIA (p. 31) 10,000 caves throughout the country, Armenia second harvest. Ararat Valley is one of the lowest aims to please to subterranean explorer. There areas in Armenia, and does not receive as much The Other Side of Garni (p. 31) are hundreds of mineral springs (both cold and snowfall or rain as the upper elevations. hot) to delight taste buds and soothe tired bodies. There is even a hot spring on top of a mountain, Weather The weather changes according to the Aragats Climbing (p. 39) inside a dormant volcano. great variety of geographic terrain. While it may be sunny and hot in the Ararat valley, 60 Arai Lehr: Sermiramis Rising (p. 44) Other tourists hike, bike, climb, glide, swim, boat kilometers away in Sevan it may be cold and rainy, and horseback ride their ways across the country, and snowing in the upper regions of Aragats. RESOURCES (p. 46) exploring remote regions where one feels alone in Climate Much of this is due to Armenia’s unique Common July temperatures range between Ararat the world, or village-hopping, savoring the delights weather systems, which mix moisture from heavy Valley highs of 25-30° C (77-86° F) to middle of home living. snowfalls in the mountains and the Black and mountain regions summer highs of 18-20° C (64- Caspian Seas with hot blasts of air from the Syrian 68° F). The absolute recorded high was 42° C INTRODUCTION What follows we hope will whet the appetite for a and Iranian plateaus. The mixture produces (107.6° F), in Ararat Valley. Common January little natural exploration of Armenia. incredibly diverse amounts of rainfall, from a mere temperatures range between Ararat Valley lows of

-5 to -7° C (23 to 19° F), with an absolute 34 mountain ranges crisscross the country, each recorded minimum of -30° C (-22° F); to middle protecting unique pockets of wildlife and terrain. mountain regions common lows of -8 to -12° C (16 More than 85 mountain peaks higher than 1300 to 12° F) and an absolute low of -46° C (-46° F) meters (4,264 ft) grace the landscape. recorded at Arpi. The average number of frost-free days in Armenia is 250 in Ararat Valley, and 150- 200 days in the middle mountain areas. In the upper elevations no more than 30-50 days are considered frost-free.

Photo courtesy Tigran Nazaryan ©

MOUNTAINS The Sevan Mountains are the oldest standing in Armenia, weighing in at 380-1,200 million years old. Volcanoes and massive earthquakes formed Photo courtesy Tigran Nazaryan © the base of the mountainous region, carving mountains, valleys and plateaus on a land that now has an average altitude of 2000 meters (6,560 ft), with less than 10% of the country lying below 1000 meters (3280 ft.).

Rainfall Armenia receives a total average precipitation of 550 mm (21.6 inches). Ararat Valley receives the least amount of precipitation, 200-250 mm (7.9 to 10 inches). The most amount of precipitation occurs in the upper regions, and during Spring and early Summer, with a second rainy season in October and November. When rain falls in the summer months, it often begins with a drizzle and soon develops into a downpour. In the winter months, snow does not last in the Ararat Valley, as the temperatures often vary between freezing and just above. In the middle mountain areas, the snow will keep for long periods of time, and commonly reaches 100 cm (40 inches).

Sunshine Armenia receives an average of 2700

sun hours of light a year. In the summer months, The highest point in Armenia is Mount Aragats (el. the Ararat valley is perpendicular to the sun, and 4090 meters/13,415 ft.) Absolute elevation ranges each sq. cm of land receives per minute 1.46 from 450-4,090 m (1,476-13,419 ft) above sea calories of heat. Because of the perpendicular level. alignment of the land with the sun, people who

sunbathe can obtain very even suntans (listen up, Lying between continental plates, Armenia and the beach bums). Transcaucasus continue to be subject to earth

tremors, which in prehistoric times shaped the great rocky mountains in the Southern and Northern parts of the country.

Karabakh Kashatagh 2901 / 9,515 Sevan Range Gegharkunik Range Bazenk 3221 / 10,565 Siunik Mountainous Armenia Upland The tallest 85 mountains in Armenia | See also Teksar 2898 / 9,505 Teksar Range Vayots Dzor Tzaghkunyats Gutanasar 2299 / 7,541 Kotaik www.masis.am/ for detailed info and killer pics. Khustup- Range Khustup 3214 / 10,542 Siunik Eshak Katar Range Zangezour Altitude Mountain Mehdun 2862 / 9,387 Siunik Bartas 2269 / 7,442 Meghri Range Siunik Name Region Range Meters/Feet Range Zangezour (Pass) Shahaponk 3204 / 10,509 Siunik Gugarats Range Chatin 2244 / 7,360 Lori Geghama Range Aragatz 4090 / 13,419 Aragatz Aragatzotn Armaghan 2829 / 9,729 Gegharkunik Javakhk Range Achkasar 3196 / 10,483 Lori Vardenis Range Berdakar 2163 / 7,095 Meghri Range Siunik Astghonk 3926 / 12,877 Gegharkunik Zangezour Range Parakan 2825 / 9,266 Siunik Karabakh Range Yerablur Tzitzernakar 3187 / 10,453 Siunik Yerablur 2124 / 6,967 Siunik Zangezour Range Range Kaputiugh 3904 / 12,805 Siunik Range Bazumtar 2796 / 9,171 Bazum Range Lori Zangezour Kaghamakhut 2106 / 6,908 Shirak Range Shirak Gokhtan 3147 / 10,322 Siunik Zangezour Range Ayrisar 2781 / 9,122 Halab Range Lori Gazanasar* 3829 / 12,559 Siunik Gugarats Range Paghakn 2072 / 6,796 Tavush Gogi 3120 / 10,234 Vaik Range Vayots Dzor Harsnasar 2773 / 9,095 Vaik Range Vayots Dzor Range Aychingil Zangezour 3707 / 12,159 Siunik Pambak Areguni Khosrov (Pass) Range Tezhlehr 3101 / 10,191 Kotaik Karktasar 2743 / 8,997 Gegharkunik Kotuzsar 2061 / 6,760 Ararat Range Range Range Geghama Azhdahak 3598 / 11,801 Kotaik Zangezour Great Pambak Arteni 2047 / 6,714 Arteni Range Aragatzotn Range Siskatar 3093 / 10,145 Siunik 2642 / 8,666 Tavush Range Maimekh Range Gugarats Geghama Galvanersar 2012 / 6,599 Lori Spitakasar 3555 / 11,660 Ararat Pambak Vayots Sar Range Range Maimekh 3081 / 10,106 Lori Kanachkogh 2593 / 8,505 Vayots Dzor Range Range Paitatap Metz Karabakh Paitatap 1979 / 6,419 Tavush 3550 / 11,644 Siunik Yeranos Ijevan 2592 / 8,502 Ijevan Range Tavush Range Ishkhanasar Upland Tzaghkavet 3076 / 10,089 Ararat Range Yeragagat 2589 / 8,492 Yeragagat Ararat Arsar 1862 / 6,107 Ijevan Range Tavush Vardenis Vardenis 3470 / 11,381 Vayots Dzor Karkhach 3063 / 10,047 Sevan Range Gegharkunik Range Vayots Dar Alsar 1853 / 6,078 Alsar Range Ararat Vayots Sar 2586 / 8,482 Vayots Dzor Metz Yeghnakhagh Range Geghama 3042 / 10,001 Shirak Lok (Pass) 1846 / 6,055 Lori Plateau Lori Geghasar 3443 / 11,283 Ararat Yeghnakhagh Range Range Arailehr 2575 / 8,446 Arailehr Aragatzotn Yeranos Karabakh Chgnavor 3024 / 9,919 Meghri Range Siunik Yeranos 1823 / 5,979 Ararat Sartsali 3433 / 11,260 Vayots Dzor Bargushat Range Upland Mechetiu 2555 / 8,380 Siunik Bovakar 3016 / 9,892 Halab Range Lori Range Gugarats East Sevan Dzigatar 1646 / 5,399 Tavush Tzarasar 3426 / 11,237 Gegharkunik Bargushat Lalvar 2543 / 8,341 Lori Plateau Lori Range Range Katar 3012 / 9,879 Siunik Range Khosrov Khosrov Bargushat Dahna 2534 / 8,312 Ararat Yerakh 1418 / 4,651 Ararat Aramazd 3392 / 11,126 Siunik Urasar 2994 / 9,820 Bazum Range Lori Range Range Range Murghuz 2993 / 9,817 Miapor Range Tavush Lejan 2526 / 8,285 Lori Plateau Lori Voskepar Zangezour Eliak 1361 / 4,464 Tavush Nahapet 3375 / 11,070 Siunik Range Range Zangezour Sharai 2474 / 8,115 Shirak Plateau Shirak Amulsar 2988 / 9,800 Vayots Dzor Range Zangezour Tzirnkar * Gazanasar holds Gazanagyol lich, Armenia's Yernjak 3368 / 11,047 Siunik Tzirnkar 2472 / 8,108 Siunik highest lake. Range Vardenis Range Gndasar 2946 / 9,663 Vayots Dzor Range Vardenis Artanis 2460 / 8,069 Sevan Range Gegharkunik Chaghatsar 3333 / 10,932 Vayots Dzor Range Bargushat Karazhayr 2931 / 9,614 Siunik Sep 2448 / 8,029 Kars Plateau Shirak Range Vardenis Sakoyvar 3299 / 10,820 Gegharkunik Khosrov Range Zangezour Urdj 2445 / 8,020 Ararat Koshakar 2921 / 9,581 Siunik Range Range Geghama Sevkatar 3225 / 10,578 Gegharkunik Yeznasar 2441 / 8,006 Kars Plateau Shirak Range East Sevan Maral 2904 / 9,525 Gegharkunik Range Menaksar 2399 / 7,869 Geghama Kotaik

can be made in the river canyon near an ancient Caving Tours should be attempted only with a apricot forest near a hankayin akhpur (a mineral qualified spelunker. Some caves have yet to be spring). mapped and it is easy to get lost or hurt. A few we have found who arrange caving: About 4 hours hike from Magili, near Arpi, is the mammoth Archeri or Bear’s Cave. The entrance is Avarayr Adventure Tours, (tel. 010 56 36 81, 52 located 1660 meters above sea level, and requires 40 42, Fax: 010 56 36 81), 1 Pavstos Biusand p, repelling to get to the entrance. The cave is more Yerevan, E-mail: [email protected], URL: than 3 kilometers deep, with some of the most www.avarayr.am/ has been arranging cultural and spectacular stalactites and stalagmite formations adventure tours to Armenia for more than 12 in Europe. Formed by thousands of years of years, one of the first to provide fully equipped calcite deposits dripping from ground water, the hiking, climbing and adventure tours. Tours formations and varieties of colors are stunning. include expert guides, cooks and support staff for The water that is dripping now to form these all tours. Tours run the gamut from hiking and Photograph courtesy Tigran Nazaryan © formations is probably more than a hundred years climbing in the wilderness to cultural visits for the Photo courtesy Tigran Nazaryan © old, filtering from the top of the mountain through more comfort-minded. Their best seem to be CAVING 233 For avid spelunkers, the most spectacular images layers of granite, slag and tuf to the cavern tours that combine both aspects. A good, solid RIVERS, LAKES & SPRINGS 444 chamber. The formations glow under flashlight, company. in Armenia are underground, and with more than some pure white, others as translucent as smoky 10,000 caves throughout the country, Armenia Rivers glass, still others gold and red in color. Armenian Mountain Rescue Teams "Spitak" (tel: aims to please to subterranean explorer. Caves (Note: length of river is given for Armenia territory 010 35 00 06), 50 Halabian p, Yerevan, email: are located in every region of the country, but the only) Too many visitors who have never ventured Just past Arpi is Jerovank, the "water church". The [email protected], more interesting line river gorges (Amberd, beyond the confines of the Ararat Valley in the “church” is actually a cave with a pool of spring fed moon.yerphi.am/~spitak/adventure.htm, stationed Hrazdan, Debed, Arpi, Vorotan and Voghji are summertime are given the false impression that water outside eh entrance. Inside are a series of in both Yerevan and Stepanavan, can organize great places to start). Armenia is a dry country. More than 200 rivers and stalactites that were used as part of 4th hiking, rock climbing and mountain expeditions. streams run through the country, most of which millennium BC worship. Directly in front of the Guides are experienced rescuers-rock climbers, Vayots Dzor is the location of three caverns rated are fed from melting snows and tens of thousands cave entrance is a sacrificial stone, and the and they can also arrange horse riding along the best in Europe by members of the French of springs. There is still an astonishing amount of stalactites inside were used as phalluses for picturesque routes, by a horse cave and "Ancient Speleological Society. Magili, Archeri (Bear’s), and water which runs through the main tributaries into fertility rituals. Armenian horse games." the smaller Jerovank cavern, provide hours of the Arax River on the Armenian/Turkish border exploration. All three caves are located within a and the Kur River in Azerbaijan. The Eco-Tour Center (tel. 010 27 87 28 / 27 40 few kilometers of each other, with nearby camping 12), 2 H Hakobian St. apt. 22, 375033 Yerevan, at natural springs, under the boughs of an ancient A huge underground lake lies below the Ararat Armenia, email: [email protected], apricot forest, or below towering rock formations. Valley. The Valley was recorded as early as the www.ecotourismarmenia.com, arranges nature Assyrian Period as being a rich, forested tours, climbs and camping, as well as birding, Magili Cavern is located in the Noravank Gorge, marshland, with cultivated lakes. The Kasakh (89 flower watching and other nature tours. Contact close to Areni. One and half kilometers deep, the km), Hrazdan (146 km), Azat (56 km) and Vedi Zhanna. cavern was inhabited as far back as the Neolithic (58 km) Rivers run West to East and North to period. Stone tools and artifacts have been South in the Ararat Valley, feeding numerous Hike & Go, (tel. France (+33 6) 88 34 04 11, local discovered in the cave, as well as more “recent” irrigation canal systems as they flow from cell: 091 20 41 38), email: [email protected] ceramic fragments from the 9th c forward. mountain sources into the Arax river (158 km), an adventure travel group operating out of Because of its depth, Magili cavern holds a which forms the southwestern border with Turkey. Armenia and France (English spoken) is an constant temperature of 14 degrees centigrade (58 interesting group that features tours of Armenia degrees Fahrenheit). The passageway varies from In Vayots Dzor the Darb (20 km), Yeghegis (54 combining traditional touring with hiking into just enough for a person to crawl through to a km) and Arpa (90 km) Rivers continually feed the Photograph courtesy Tigran Nazaryan © Armenia’s wilderness and off-the–beaten-path spacious 10-15 meters in width. low lands as do thousands more natural springs. Spelunkers and archeologists found human monuments, some of which can only be reached

skeletal remains inside the cave, confirming by hiking. See web site (www.hikeandgo.com/) Magili is also a unique underground eco-system, The Vorotan (119 km), Voghji (56 km) and Meghri speculation that early rites included human home to thousands of Microchiroptera Desmodus, (32 km) Rivers run through Siunik, with the sacrifice. The canyon outside the cave is thickly AdvenTour Travel (tel. 010 53 96 09, cell: 091 42 Diphylla, Diaemus, otherwise known as fruit bats. Vorotan flowing East to the Hagari River in forested and a hiker’s paradise. Nearby are the 67 45), Email: [email protected], URL: The only mammal capable of true flight, bats are Azerbaijan where it joins the Arax. The Meghri 11th c. Agaragadzor Kamurch and a large spring www.armeniaexplorer.com, 39 Pushkin p, Yerevan, an important part of the ecological system. One of River flows from the Meghri Mountain Range south fed pool, a perfect place to swim in and cool of Armenia, 375002, arranges adventure, birding, nature’s spectacles is at dusk, as the nesting bats into the Arax River by Meghri town. after a lengthy hike. botanical and historic tours. fly out of the cave in a fluttering cloud that twists and turns in the evening air. Free style camping

In Shirak District the Akhurian River begins at the and rain water into the valleys and mountain Ailing as it is, Lake Sevan is still a spectacular Arpilich Reservoir in Armenia s Siberia and plateaus. Several rivers have been diverted into marine system, holding some of the purest water flows for 210 kilometers before joining the Arax lakes and reservoirs, which form the bulk of the in the world. A unique high altitude marshland lies River by the village of Bagaran in Armavir District. irrigation and drinking water for the country. Like on the Southern shores, a rare home to Storks and The Mantash River (90 km) flows from South to so much else in the former Soviet Union, water fowl little seen at this altitude. The lake is North East into the Akhurian, feeding the Shirak mismanagement of natural resources, rather than home to the endangered Ishkhan (Armenian trout) Canal system with the Akhurian. their amounts, has threatened the ecological and Sig fish, as well as seagulls, gray ducks and system as well as the economic expansion for the several species of eagles. Another endangerd new republic. visitor to the lake is the Armenian leopard or panther (panthera pardus tullianus).

(See Sevan Chapter for more details)

Other lakes Aside from Lake Sevan, there are only a handful of natural lakes in the country, among them Karilich and Lake Lessing on Mt. Aragats; Aygehr in the Ararat Ravine; Lake Kaputan in the Zangezour Mountain Range; Lake Thermal and Mineral Springs Akna on the Geghama Lehr east of Abovian; and There are more than 20,000 (some say 40,000) Lake Parz northeast of Dilijan. By comparison , natural springs in Armenia. The springs (including while Lake Sevan has 1256 sq. kilometers of water mineral and thermal springs) supported a thriving surface, there is only one square kilometer of health and spa ("Sanatorium") industry in the water surface from ALL the primary natural lakes 1980 s, and make up one of Armenia s most in Armenia. promising tourist attractions. At present most mineral springs are relatively undeveloped, except The second largest river system in the country lies Reservoirs make up the second largest water the spa areas around Jermuk and Hankavan. Even in Lori and Tavoush Districts. In Lori the Dzoraget surface in the country, the source of irrigation and there the cost of a spa treatment is as low as $10- (57 km) joins the Pambak (86 km) River to form Lakes, Reservoirs drinking water, and also a source of ecological 15 a day (meals and lodging included). the source of the Debed (152 km), which flows Lake Sevan (alt. 1897m/6222f), with a total water strain. The Akhurian, straddling the Turkish and into Georgia. The smaller rivers of the Chichkan surface of 1256 sq. kilometers is one the largest Armenian borders and Kars River on the Turkish Thermal springs lie throughout the country, but (65 km), Urut (25 km) and the Marts (25 km) feed high altitude lakes it the world. The lake is fed by side feed the Akhurian Reservoir, which lies east of Siunik and Vayots Dzor are home to the most the Lori River system. In Tavoush the Koghb (25 28 rivers and streams, thousands of years of the town of Maralik. The reservoir is heavily used, popular (and the warmest recorded) springs. The km), Joghaz (57 km), Aksipara (21 km), Sarnajur melting snow from the surrounding mountains and and water tables drop precipitously by mid most famous is perhaps Jermuk, with naturally (23 km), Spitakjur (10 km) Urtijur (19 km) all feed scattered rainfall in the Spring and early summer. summer. Much of this was due to irrigation carbonated sulfur thermal springs (37-42? C/99- into the Aghstev (99 km) which runs to the Kur As the source for the second largest river in methods that used huge sprinkling systems, in 108? F). Other springs at Jermuk include a River in Azerbaijan (the Kur eventually joining the Armenia, the Hrazdan, Lake Sevan literally is the which 70% of the moisture is evaporated before it calcium-sulfur cold water spring (4-20? C/39-68? Arax). Other rivers in Lori feeding the Kur are the source of life for the largest part of the Armenian reaches plant roots. F), and purified spring-fed thermal Jacuzzi's and Hakhum (45 km), Tavush (43 km) and the population. Extensively used beginning in the baths (20-37? C/68-99?F). Hankavan has several Khndzorut (65 km). Soviet Area to irrigate arid mountain plateaus and Other reservoirs include the Spandarian, natural mineral springs in the area, the warmest at to generate hydro-electric power, the lake reached Angeghakot, Tolors and Shamb Reservoirs in the Hankavan Spa (20-37?C/68-99? F), which is Sevan Lake is fed by 28 rivers, including the recorded low levels in the 1970 s, losing more Siunik (Sissian District), developed to promote currently closed. Not to worry, as the springs run Masrik (43 km), Boydara (16 km), Vardenis (28 than 10 meters of water depth. The receding wheat production in the area, and to divert water off into the Marmarik River, and locals regularly km), the Argichi (51 km) fed by the Karadzi (22 waters revealed several prehistoric settlements, to support Lake Sevan. Others are the Kechut gather for a quick soak. Another popular warm km), the Martuni (12 km), Tzakkar (23 km) and including the 2nd millennium BCE royal burial (Vayots Dzor), Azat (Ararat District), Aparan water spring spa is located at Arzni, just north of the Kukudzor (11 km) joining the Gegharkunik (51 ground at Lechashen and 1st millennium BCE (Kotaik), Mantash, Kaghnu and Arpi (Shirak). Yerevan. The waters and newly privatized km). In turn the Sevan is the source of the Urartian cuneiform stones, showing the lake has spas are working. Hrazdan River, which flows through Kotaik District experienced at least one natural loss of water into the Ararat Valley. The Marmarik River in volume in history. Continued aggressive use of the There are countless other thermal and cold water Northwest Kotaik joins the Hrazdan River east of water in the 1980's further depleted an additional springs, most known only to the local villagers. It's the Tzaghkadzor Forest and Resort area. 10 meters of depth. It has been estimated that well worth asking, since you may just stumble even if water diversion was stopped, it would take across a natural treasure. If you find one off the There are countless mountain streams that feed up to 500 years to naturally restore the lake to its beaten path, relax and soak a while you will be this extensive river system which runs in virtually previous levels. undisturbed, often completely alone in stunning all directions as they deliver melting snows, spring wilderness areas.

mixture of tuf, perlite, pumice and diatomite. include diamonds. Since most of the region is For a list of Mineral Springs in Armenia, see Minerals include the entire range found in Ararat protected, very few mines are in operation (or TourArmenia: Springs (gold, silver, tin, molibden, tungsten, mercury, admitted to be operating), the most notable (www.tacentral.com/nature/natural_story.asp?stor sulfur, sodium chloride and barium), but it is not exception being the gold mine at Sodk. y_no=4). exploited on a large scale. The bulk of Armenia's copper is mined in Lori District, along with Vayots Dzor’s natural resources are relatively Soaking Etiquette polymetal. Gems found in teh region include agate, unexplored, though the area holds large deposits Springs can be located by the roadside, which are diamonds, emeralds, quartz, carnelian, turquoise of iron, copper, silver, tin, marble, granite, tuf, reserved for drinking, on clearly marked paths, or and lapis lazuli. Geologists believe that the region perlite, basalt, andesite, obsidian, quartz, barium, in out of the way locations. Many springs are may prove to be the richest in the country. sulfur, Sodium chloride, clay, aluminum ore and considered community property, with villagers and limestone. It is believed that Vayots Dzor was the visitors making stops to soak or collect water in Aragats is a dormant volcano, and as such location of gold, turquoise, diamond and lapis bottles. If it's a drinking spring, then it's not for contains large concentrations of volcanic rock (tuf, lazuli mines during the Bronze Age, along with soaking, no matter how appealing. A spring for pumice, perlite) as well as basalt, gypsum, other precious jewels, but if this is true, the mines soaking is fairly obvious: it empties into a pool, is pumice, andesite, limestone, marble, granite. have not been found in the modern age. fairly secluded, and is not stocked with fish (and Minerals include quartz, agate, obsidian, silver and fishermen) being bred for market. Often there will copper. Kotaik has large deposits of peat, perlite, Siunik: High quality marble is mined just north of be others already taking in some of the MINERAL RESOURCES 445 basalt, gypsum, pumice, andesite, limestone, Sissian, along with limestone, tuf, basalt and effervescent waters. Men feel quite at home Armenia is particularly rich with high-grade stone, marble, granite. Metals include iron, while minerals granite. Goris includes the same, adding iron and stripping down to their underpants to soak and from earliest of times it was used to construct include quartz, agate, obsidian, silver and copper. diatomite. Kapan and Meghri hold vast quantities provided women are no where in sight. Nudity is temples, cyclopic walls, palaces, homes, churches, There is a working gold mine near Hankavan (alas, of granite, aluminum, polymetal, molibden, rarely (if ever) allowed. Bring a swimsuit if you are even to pave the streets of its Greco-Roman cities. visitors not allowed). tungsten, perlite, and limestone, along with tuf more modest. Women visitors can feel free to Armenia holds some 3 billion cubic meters of tuf, and basalt. Minerals found throughout Siunik soak, but wear a swimsuit, and if there are any an easily cut yet resilient material, and most include molibden, obsidian, quartz, barium, sulfur, local men around, be prepared for a lot of buildings from the early Christian period forward Mercury, Barium, Sodium Chloride, gold, attention, which can make the experience are made from the orange, red, gold and black diamonds, copper, tin, silver and high-quality unpleasant. varieties of tuf. Other stone in the country include ceramic clay. Especially in Goris and Kapan there basalt, granite, marble, limestone, perlite, may be large deposits of precious gems (quarts, Carbonated sulfur water is surprisingly strong, and andestie, perlite, limestone, agate, pumice and amethyst, carnelian, aquamarine, lapis lazuli and one should never soak more than 5-10 minutes at gypsum. diamonds), but they are not currently being a time, especially if it is hot. This goes for mined. 'professional soakers' and neophytes alike. The Also cooked up in the country were iron, revitalizing affect will be most immediately felt on polymetals, aluminum, molibden, tungsten, your pulse, so monitor it as you soak. The skin diatomite, gold, silver, copper, tin, mercury, tingles, and if you are allergic to sulfur, you can barium, sulfur, bentonite, sodium chloride, among get a rash. Calcium carbonated water (the stuff other minerals. they put in sodas to make it fizz), tingles as well, and can raise your pulse if you stay too long in the Semi-precious and precious stones found in water. Best to "dunk and drip", that is, spend just Armenia include obsidian, amethyst, andesite, a few minutes in, then twice as long out, especially andelusite, emerald, garnet, beryl, turquoise, if you haven't tried natural spas before. several grades of quartz, carnelian, aquamarine, Ararat Valley contains large concentrations of lapis lazuli and diamonds. Specific stone, minerals volcanic rock (tuf, pumice, perlite) as well as Along the roadside you will find hundreds of carved and gems found in each region are listed below. basalt, gypsum, andesite, limestone, marble and stones, almost all an outlet for natural drinking granite. Minerals include quartz, agate, obsidian, water. The stones are carved as memorials to Shirak: The bulk of Armenia's marble, limestone, silver and copper. Minerals and gems include commemorate a loved one, an historic event, even perlite, pumice and tuf is mined in Shirak Region, obsidian, amethyst, andesine, andelusite, emerald, an engineer who worked on the road. Almost all as well as granite. Minerals found in Shirak include garnet, beryl, turquoise, several grades of quartz, have designs borrowed from the khachkar mercury, barium, copper, tin, silver and coal. carnelian, aquamarine and lapis lazuli tradition, with beautiful details and flourishes. The Gems include amethyst, obsidian, quartz, water is safe to drink, though if enough mouths carnelian, garnet, beryl, turquoise, aquamarine, Gegharkunik- Sevan: The mountains are formed HUMAN ECOLOGY 555 have sucked on the pipe, you may want to wait a lapis lazuli and diamonds. from lava rocks like basalt, perlite and limestone, The Ararat Valley is one of the oldest settled areas few seconds before taking a sip. while tectonic plate compression created marble, in the ancient world, as excavations in suburban Lori and Tavush both have large deposits of and granite. Minerals and soil include clay, peat, Yerevan illustrate. A 90,000 BCE Stone Age limestone, marble and granite, along with a molibden, gold, copper and silver, while gems settlement was uncovered on the shores of Lake

Yerevan opposite Shengavit, exposing hunting During the Persian, Hellenistic and Roman periods, resources, and it is at this time that French, However, the bulk of these factories will never be tools and implements made from obsidian, crude settlements grew to large cities, including Armavir, German and Swiss firms began mining the able to replicate their bloated staffing and remain mudpack and cave dwellings, and the earliest Artashat and Vagharshapat. By this period the country's extensive gold, diamond and metal competitive in the world market, and the religious artifacts uncovered on the Armenian Ararat Valley was extensively irrigated, providing resources on a large scale. Giumri was designated burgeoning private sector (also called the "Black Plateau. an abundance of food. It is not known how many the regional capital (then named Alexandrople Market") makes up much of the difference, with people lived in the republic at this time, but it was after Alexander I), and the population at Yerevan the UN estimating off the record that 50-70% of Settlements quickly grew in the Copper Bronze a strategic trade and political fulcrum for outside was a mere 14,000. By the early 20th century, the population are really unemployed and Age along the entire length and width of the powers, and the city of Artashat was considered Yerevan had grown to approx. 45,000, and the vulnerable. valley, based on a change from hunting and the "Cartage of the East," indicating it was not a most serious Human Ecology threats were about to gathering to collective farming sometime between backwater country. The greatest threat to human begin. Even those figures are guesswork, since a census 15,000 - 10,000 BCE. Virgin strands of wild wheat ecology was constant warfare and threat of has not been made since 1989, and every urban still propagate in the valley between Yerevan and invasion, which stretched from the Roman through Tamanian designed the new Armenian capital for a area of the country has seen real loss of Garni. The wheat is the closest thing we have to the modern era. then unheard of 150,000 people. In 50 years, the population. It is much more likely that over a that which ancient man first cultivated on a large sleepy town of Yerevan had grown to a metropolis million people have left the country in search for scale. Carbon dating of wheat kernels uncovered Extensive expansion of towns and contruction of of one and half million people working in mostly work, sending back support funds to families left at excavations along the Ararat Valley show large- churches and monasteries began in the 5th huge industrial complexes. behind. As much as 250 million dollars a month scale wheat cultivation as far back as 15,000 BCE. century, continuing up to the Ottoman and Persian are sent into the country from Armenians living division of the kingdom in the 16th-17th centuries. The period following World War II is marked by abroad. The valley’s volcanic base produced extraordinarily The monastery communities did not coincide with huge urban development and industrial diverse minerals and metal ore as well, including rapid urban development countrywide, as it did in development, and the greatest threats to the The threats to human ecology are a mixed bag. pure strains of silver, gold, tin and copper. The other countries. The urban areas grew primarily at environment ensued. While Soviet Armenia Shutting down factories and migrations outside has forging of tin and copper into bronze occurred in Ani, Dvin and Kapan, with Ani supporting a reclaimed much of the desert and scrub land on relieved the pressures on the environment, but as the Ararat Valley as early as 5000 BCE, and the population of 100,000, larger than any city in the edges of the Ararat Valley, they did this by the economy grows, rational use of resources is first known casting of iron occurred around 2000 Europe at that time. The Ararat Valley continued depleting the waters in sensitive areas. The vast not being utilized. BCE. to support heavy agriculture production, though underwater lake that lies below Yerevan was the southernmost and easternmost areas had by rendered useless due to pollution and toxic waste Yerevan has experienced a small boom in the past The combination of agriculture development and now become a desert. The rise of monastic disposal, and chemical and metal processing plants several years, and locals are already complaining metallurgy created a sophisticated culture that communities, academies and small towns in the in Yerevan, Vanadzor and Alaverdi did greater of the smoggy skies, worst July to October and predates almost all others in Western Asia and the mountainous regions were likely due as much to damage to the environment than the deforestation December to March, when fossil fuel emission Middle East. The nucleus was Metsamor, a city of more abundant resources as they were to threat of of the recent past. hangs in the air. Irrigation still uses the least 50,000 people by the mid Bronze Age. Others invasion. effective way of watering plants, and the pressure were Lechashen at Lake Sevan (possibly the site of Locals remember when the trees covering the exerted by the Azerbaijan/Turkey energy blockade Gegh), Garni, Shengavit, Jerahovit, AdaBlur, mountains between Spitak and Vanadzor were against Armenia forces overuse of hydroelectric MokhraBlur, Aigeshat and Yervandashat. Frequent covered with a white dust spewed from the capacity and prompted the reopening of the raid and border wars leveled cities, which were chemical factory, and the annual loss of trees--not Metsamor Atomic Reactor, shut down during the rebuilt in layers on top of previous rubble, allowing to tree cutting, but to toxic poison. In a perverse green movement in 1988. archeologists to uncover generations of splendor sense, the sudden collapse of the Soviet economy and decline. has given a 7-year breathing space for nature to Despite a much smaller population of 1.7 - 2.5 recover. At the same time the country struggles million, the relentless search for income leaves By the Urartian period, the area was extensively to support its population with meaningful ecology far behind in the thoughts of the people. populated, with a large network of roads employment, and natural resources are the first in connecting the regions. Cuneiform found in all the line to be used to earn income. The Greens movement that sprung in the 1980's regions of the republic indicate that civilization as and forced the shutdown ot the Metsamor nucleur classical historians coin it, had developed to a high Beginning in 1990, Armenia saw a real decline in reactor and Nairit petrochemical plant, fostered a degree. Primary Urartian cities included its population, which has created a critical mass of number of Ecological organizations Argishtikhinili (Armavir), Teishebaini (Karmir Blur) decline for economical development. Officially the (Nongovernmental Organizations, or "NGO's"), and Erebuni, which is considered the beginning of government admits to an 8% unemployment rate which continue to fight to protect the environment Yerevan's history as a city. Heavily timbered in and decline of 750,000- 1.5 million of its despite overwhelming odds and virtual neglect by previous centuries, hillsides lining the valley were population (migrated to other countries searching Armenians abroad, the most capable to help. Eco- deforested by the Urartu period, so that additional The 19th century, when the Russian Empire for work). In fact, the unemployment figures are NGO's are spearheading education, public irrigation canals had to be installed to support the usurped Persian hegemony over Eastern Armenia, based on worker roles for factories that no longer awareness and conservation efforts, which may agricultural system. marks the beginning of both a surge in population operate, and the unemployment rate is closer to prove to be the only means to pass a beautiful and growth and depletion of natural resources. The 80% of the population. rich ecosystem on to the next generation. Russians fostered large exploitation of mineral

REGION-BY-REGION ECOLOGY 555 makeup the bulk of southern Shirak are unique Nutria, moles, jackals and wildcats are frequently Eco-systems, filled with desert wildlife, and the seen in the region as well. NORTH ARMENIA ECOLOGY bulk of migrating steppe birds in the Spring and fall. Thermal and Mineral Springs Shirak is blessed with several large natural springs, including several mineral springs. All are cold water springs, with natural carbonated sulfur springs lying near Ashotsk, Amassia and Akhurian; carbonated sodium springs near Shirak and Aghin; naturally carbonated springs by Ashotsk, and Sodium Chloride springs close to Shirakavan.

Flora Northern Shirak flora include Iris lineolata, I. Caucasica, Merendera mirzoeval, Colchicum Szoritsii, Gagea ssp., Puschkinia scilloides, Draba ssp., Lallemautia caneseeus, Ranunculus ssp., SHIRAK MARZ Myosotis alpestris, Pedicularis ssp., Trifolium ssp., Overview Shirak District lies in stark contrast to Armenia's second city, Giumri, lies in the center of Gladiolus kotschyanus, Silene ssp. the rest of the country, with its southern area lying Shirak Region. Giumri holds the best examples of in predominantly semi-desert to desert mountain what the belle epoque life was like in 19th century Lower Elevation sagebrush steppe flora includes steppe terrain, while the northern area rises over Armenia. While most of the Kruschev era buildings Gladiolus atroviolaceus, Nigella oxypetala, alpine meadows called Armenia's "Siberia". From were destroyed in the 1988 earthquake, a large Actynolema macrolema, Gundelia tournefort, Amassia and Ashotsk, it suddenly erupts into part of the old quarter survived the devastation, Verbascum saccatum, Lallemanita iberica, mountain forests at the Georgian border. The and many buildings that were partially destroyed Roemeria retracta, Scabiosa argentea, Scorronera Region is bordered by Mt. Aragats on the are being rebuilt. The city lies above the Akhurian paposa, Muscari beglecta, Stchys inflata, LORI/TAVUSH MARZ southeast, the Bazruma and Javakh Mountain River Valley, which supports deciduous forests Astragalus distyophysus, A. kochianus, Achillea Overview Tavush District in the northeast has the ranges on the east, and Turkey to the west. The along its path. tenuifolia, Helichrysum rubicundum, Silena largest forest in the country, covering the second Akhurian River begins in Shirak Region, runs just spergulifolia. oldest mountains in the country (after Lori and west of Giumri before forming the border between Between Giumri and the Georgian border, the land Northern Kotaik). From 26 to 410 million years old, Turkey and Armenia at Akhurik. slowly rises to the foot of the Javakh Range. The River Gorge flora include Alkanna orientalis, the Miapor, Kenats, Hakhum, Ijevan, Halab, area is notorious for being the coldest area in Cerasus incana, Prus, salicifolia, Cerasus mahaleb, Gugarats and Voskepar Mountain ranges first Half of the region lies on the Kars and Shirak Armenia throughout the year, though it is a rich Amygdalus ferzlinia, Spirala crenata, Saxifraga clashed across the district, forming myriad Plateaus, a complex mountain steppe region that marshland with scattered swamps that supports cymbalaria. striations of mountains, valleys, vegetation zones includes swamp and marshland, large tracts of waterfowl and possibly the highest altitude habitat and rock formations. The area is so diverse, with semi-desert, mountain steppe and mountain/alpine for the stork and crane. The region is primarily Desert and semi-desert flora include (non Latin so many varieties of forests, vegetation, flora and meadows with pockets of forests nestled inside inhabited by Molokons, descendants of Russian names) sagebrush, steppe grass, straw flowers, fauna, it is hard to take in. The area is the major mountain clefts. The Southern area relies mainly Orthodox "Old believers", first exiled by Catherine poppies and daisies. meeting place of the Iranian, Caucasian, Iranian on irrigation and springs to cultivate agriculture. the Great. Forest birds and other fauna inhabit the and Minor Asian Tectonic Plates, and it is possible The landscape is striking, if for some visitors a pockets of forestland that suddenly erupt into a Birds (Cross refrence with Birds by Habitat p. 25) to stand astride several landmasses in a single little desolate. The main highways run through the deep forest at the Georgian border. Mountain Steppe Wetland | Valley / Lowland | spot. The weather is extremely variable, with driest parts of the region, which give a false Scrub | Semi-Desert to Mountain Steppe | towns and villages located at a higher altitude than impression: There are as many villages in Shirak Minerals, Stones, Gems The bulk of Armenia's Mountain Steppe | Rocky Cliff / River Gorge | Yerevan actually having warmer temperatures in region as there are in Aragatsotn, all of them built marble, limestone, perlite, pumice and tuf is mined Mountain Slope | Upper Mountain Cliff and Gorge | the dead of January. In fact, the major towns in along rivers, streams and springs. An amazing in Shirak Region, as well as granite. Minerals found Woodland / Farmland / Orchard | Subalpine / the region, Ijevan and Noyemberian, have the number of early medieval monasteries and in Shirak include mercury, barium, copper, tin, Mountain Meadow | Alpine same climactic zones as Meghri. Meanwhile, a churches were built on the plateau (which is dotted silver and coal. Gems include amethyst, obsidian, neighboring town just a few kilometers away will with dozens of mountains itself), each of them a quartz, carnelian, garnet, beryl, turquoise, Other Fauna The largest prairie dog population in be snowed in and freezing. verdant oasis in the surrounding semi-desert. The aquamarine, lapis lazuli and diamonds. Armenia is in Shirak, located west of Maralik. rock formations and scrub land vegetation that

The diversity is astounding. Every type of Lori Marz is known for its steep mountain passes, found in Ararat (gold, silver, tin, molibden, Genista transcaucasica, Mespilus germanica, Scilla vegetation in Armenia inhabits the region, breathtakingly protecting mountain monasteries tungsten, mercury, sulfur, sodium chloride and mistscheukoana. including small valleys that can grow the same and medieval academies. Bordered by the Halab, barium), but it is not exploited on a large scale. plants as Meghri. Forests include Dry and Arax Gugarats, Pambak and Bazum Mountain Ranges on The bulk of Armenia's copper is mined in Lori River Gorge flora include Iris lineolata, I. Oak, Eastern Beech, Caucasian Pine, a coniferous the east, south and Southeast; and by the Lori District, along with polymetal. Gems found in teh Paradoxa, I. Caucasica, Allium stamineum, tree called the ‘Tis’, Elm, Tulip, Georgian Oak, Plateau on the North, Lori is as diverse and region include agate, diamonds, emeralds, quartz, Bellevalia paradoxa, B. longystila, Muscari evergreen and other deciduous tress. Marshlands abundant as Tavush. Lori adds the contrasts of a carnelian, turquoise and lapis lazuli. Geologists atropatana, M. sosnovskyi, Tulipa Sosnovskyi, and forests vie for attention with meadows complex alpine meadow and wet mountain steppe believe that the region may prove to be the richest Punica granatum, Vinca Vitis sylvestris, Ficus teeming with wildflowers. All are inhabited by the terrain in the West to complete its diversity. One in the country. carica (wild). largest diversity of animals in the country. The of the greatest contrasts in Armenia comes from largest population of Royal Stag and deer are traveling by road from Vanadzor to Alaverdi or Flora Mountain pass flora includes Iris furcata, Sub-region flora include Alkanna orientalis, found in Tavush, along with kites, eagles, wild Stepanavan. Anemone fasciculata, A. raminculoides, Primula Cerasus incana, Prus, salicifolia, Cerasus mahaleb, cats, bears, lynx and caucasian squirrels. ruprechtii, P. macrocalyx, Trollius patulus, Caltha Amygdalus ferzlinia, Spirala crenata, Saxifraga From Vanadzor to Alaverdi, the road twists and polypetala, Veratium lobelianum, Palsatilla cymbalaria, Linaria armeniaca, Acantholimon The region is coursed by the Aghstev, Khndsorut, turns through the Pambak and Debed River armena, Corydalis persica, Fritillaria caucasica, bracteatum, Illium akana, Tulipa julia, Corydalis Tavush, Hakhum, Sarnajur, Spitakjur, Aksipara Canyons, which lie far below the peaks of the Betonica grandiflora, Prunus spinosa, Sedum augustifolius, Orni-thogalum mountanum, O. and Koghb Rivers, each of which feed the Kur Gugarats Mountain Range. The weather system pilosum, Sempervivum transcaucasicum, Malus gussonei, Campanula choziatorskyi, Bellevalia River in Azerbaijan. The Aghstev River is the changes less than 10 kilometers outside of orientalis, Pyrus caucasicus. longystila, Muscari neglecta, Lotus goebelia, largest River in the region, with its headwaters in Vanadzor, supporting verdant green forests like Astragalus strictifolius, Serratula serratuloides, Lori Region. The rivers all run from South to North, those found in Tavush. Even in the height of Tomanthea aucheri, Malus oreientalis, Prunus dropping more than 2500 meters before they enter summer, the hillsides and mountains in Lori are divaricata, Sorbus graeca, S. persica, S. aucuparia, Azerbaijan. As such they form the greatest covered with green grass and wildflowers. Alaverdi Crataegus orientalis, C. lacimiata. potential for hydroelectric generation in the lies in the same climactic zone as Meghri, and country. seldom receives more than a few weeks of freezing Other flora include Iris lineolata, I. Caucasia, weather each year. Merendera mirzoeval, Colchicum szovitsii, Gagea ssp., Puschninia scilloides, Draba ssp., Lallemantia Lori also lies on the edge of tectonic plates, but the caneseens, Ranunculur ssp., Myosotis alpestris, Western plateau does not absorb tremors as well Pedicularis ssp., Trifolium ssp., Gladiolus as the complex of plates in Tavush District. In kotschyanus, Silene ssp. 1988, near the town of Spitak, one of the most devastating earthquakes in Armenia occurred, Birds (Cross refrence with Birds by Habitat p. 25) killing 25,000 people in a wide swath of land Mountain Steppe Wetland, Valley / Lowland, Scrub, between Giumri and the Gugarats Range. Spitak Semi-Desert to Mountain Steppe, Mountain was leveled, as was much of Giumri and parts of Steppe, Rocky Cliff / River Gorge, Mountain Slope, Vanadzor. Upper Mountain Cliff and Gorge, Woodland / Farmland / Orchard, Subalpine / Mountain By taking the other road out of Vanadzor, to Mountain Flora include Tulipa florensvyi, T. Meadow, Alpine. Stepanavan is an even more striking route. The confusa: f. pink, f. red, f. yellow, Iris grossheimii, road rises above Vanadzor through a gorge that is I. Paradoxa, I. Caucasica, I. Pseudocaucasica, I. Other Fauna Notable fauna include sylvan sparsely vegetated, lined with red and golden tuf, Atropatana, Mesendera candissima, Colchicum wildcat, reed wildcat, lynx, fox, royal stag, deer, limestone and basalt. A tunnel passes through the zangezurum, Hyacintella atropatana, Fritillaria caucasian squirrel, porcupine, bear, wild bore, Tavush District has the largest Nature Preserve in Bazum Mountains to the other side, where a kurdica, F. armena, Orchis simma, O. marten. Armenia, the Dilijan Preserve. This technically deciduous forest of mixed oaks, tis and elm covers schelvcornikovii, O. stvenii, O. coriphora, prevents locals from logging the trees, but the the hills, while the Lori plateau stretches off in the Steveniella satyroides, Cephalanthera Thermal and Mineral Springs Tavush and Lori energy blockade and a lack of adequate jobs in the distance. Rich loam supports an agricultural epipactoides, Epipactis latifolia, Acantholimon are covered with natural mineral springs, most of region has meant this restriction is largely ignored. system that does not need irrigation. The rolling fedorovii, Reseda globulosa, Cercis griffithii, them naturally carbonated Calcium and Sodium What is surprising when one visits the region is mountain meadow gradually gives way to Gladiolus szovitsii, G. atroviolaceus, G. italicus, calcium cold springs. Other springs are naturally that while perhaps 5% of the forest has been mountains and mid-level forests near the Georgian Punica granatum (wild), Tournefortia siberia, carbonated, sulfur, and sodium chloride. Springs logged since 1990, it is renewing itself in a border. Calendula persica. can be found near Alaverdi, Katnaghpyur, relatively short period of time. Until substitute Northern flora include Iris imbricata, Tulipa Stepanavan, Tsater, Dzoraget, Vahagnadzor, employment is created, though, the region is in Minerals, Stones, Gems Tavush and Lori both sosnovskyi, Fritillaria pinardii, F. armenia, Spitak, Vanadzor, Dilijan, Haghartsin, Voskepar, danger of serious ecological damage. have large deposits of limestone, marble and Colchicum ninae, C. Szovitsii, Merendera Berd and Nerkin Karmiraghpiur. granite, along with a mixture of tuf, perlite, pumice raddeana, Crocus asamii, Corydalis persica, and diatomite. Minerals include the entire range Ornithogalum sigmoideum, O. transcaucasicum, CENTRAL ARMENIA ECOLOGY

Canyon walls plummet as much as 500 meters where the drop in altitude (and temperature) from Amygdalus ferzlinia, Spirala crenata, Saxifraga (984 feet), protecting a microenvironment distinct the canyon rim to the river bed is most dramatic, cymbalaria. from that above. While above canyon rims with multi-colored basalt, granite and tuf meadows are bare except for rock outcroppings mountains seem to spring from the river forests. Geghard Gorge is particularly unique, with Linaria and a carpet of mountain grass and wild flowers, armeniaca, Acantholimon bracteatum, Illium the canyon floor is covered with trees and thick Kotaik is also home to a native forest at akana, Tulipa julia, Corydalis augustifolius, Orni- bush, supporting forest animal life. The Amberd Tzaghkadzor, which supports forest, mountain thogalum mountanum, O. gussonei, Campanula River forms one of the natural paths to the upper steppe and alpine flora and fauna species, choziatorskyi, Bellevalia longystila, Muscari elevation, flowing from its source just below the of including bear, wild cat, and the red book listed neglecta, Lotus goebelia, Astragalus strictifolius, the mountain, past a 10-13th cc fortress and Armenian gazelle and leopard. Mountain steppe Serratula serratuloides, Tomanthea aucheri, Malus summer residence for Armenia’s kings, the wildflowers are found in abundance in Kotaik oreientalis, Prunus divaricata, Sorbus graeca, S. Byurakan observatory (the second largest n district. The best time to see them is May-July, persica, S. aucuparia, Crataegus orientalis, C. Eurasia) to the Ararat Valley floor. Wildflowers when the spring rains and melting snows feed seas lacimiata. literally carpet the mountain 8 months of the year, of green mountain grass that seem to cover even beginning in February at the mountain base with the rocky mountains, the grass itself covered with Mountain Steppe flora includes Gladiolus winter crocus and anemones, continuing in a patchwork quilt of lavender, yellow, orange and atroviolaceus, Nigella oxypetala, Actynolema seasonal bands up the mountainside through mid- red flowers. macrolema, Gundelia tournefort, Verbascum August. Autumnal flowers retreat down the saccatum, Lallemanita iberica, Roemeria retracta, ARAGATSOTN – KOTAIK MARZ mountainside in Mid-August, and continue to Minerals, Stones, Gems Aragats is a dormant Scabiosa argentea, Scorronera paposa, Muscari Overview Aragatsotn is dominated by Mt. November, when the peaks are already covered volcano, and as such contains large concentrations beglecta, Stchys inflata, Astragalus distyophysus, Aragats, the tallest mountain in the Republic. A with snow. of volcanic rock (tuf, pumice, perlite) as well as A. kochianus, Achillea tenuifolia, Helichrysum category 1B mountain (tourist category 3) makes basalt, gypsum, pumice, andesite, limestone, rubicundum, Silena spergulifolia. Mt. Aragats accessible to most mountain climbers Native poppies, goldenrod, blue yellow and red marble, granite. Minerals include quartz, agate, and naturalists wanting to explore its four straw flowers--even deep green clover cover the obsidian, silver and copper. Kotaik has large crowning peaks. Formed by volcanic activity, the mountain meadows from Amberd up, making deposits of peat, perlite, basalt, gypsum, pumice, crest is actually a rim of a massive crater which prime grazing for flocks of sheep maintained by andesite, limestone, marble, granite. Metals blew itself open more than 500,000 years ago, as Yesdi villagers. Yesdis are a Zoroastrian pastoral include iron, while minerals include quartz, agate, mankind began to settle the region in earnest. The community, descendants of Kurds that refused to obsidian, silver and copper. There is a working four peaks look down into the crater and to the adopt Christianity or the Moslem faith. Most of gold mine near Hankavan (alas, visitors not surrounding territory. From the of Aragats it is them live along the lower sides of the mountains in allowed). possible to see most of the Transcaucasus Aragatsotn, Kotaik, Lori and Shirak Districts. In Mountain range as far as Europe's tallest April and May they form an annual exodus to the Flora Flora in Aragats and Kotaik (Geghama Lehr) mountain, Mt. Elbrus (alt. 5642m/18,506f) which upper reaches of the mountains. Along with include Merendera trigyna, M. raddeana, colchiam straddles the Georgian and Russian border 500 stunning views of Ararat and Lake Sevan, you bifolium, Purdminia scilloides, Scilla armenia, S. kilometers to the north. To the west you have might just run across a friendly shepherd below siberica, Tulipa julia, Iris caucasia, Muscari excellent views of the Ararat Valley, Mt. Ararat and the rim, living in a caravan style tent, tending his caucasicum, Bellevalia pycnantha, Ornithogalum Turkey, while to the Southeast lie Lake Sevan and flock. schelkovnikovii, O. brachystachys, O. hyastanum, the Karabakh Uplands. Covered with snow except Fritillaria caucasia, Nectarosordum tripedale, Osp for 4-6 weeks between July 15-August 15 or 30th, Kotaik District is primarily a mountain steppe of gagea, Myosotis alpestre, Amenone caucasia, Birds (Cross refrence with Birds by Habitat p. 25) Mt. Aragats has two high elevation lakes, Lessing region, rimmed in by the Geghama Lehr on the Orchis coriophora, Gladiolus tenuis. Mountain Steppe Wetland, Scrub, Semi-Desert , and Kara, formed from crystal clear glacial waters. East, Mt. Aragats on the West, and the Pambak Mountain Steppe, Rocky Cliff, Mountain Slope, Even in the heat of summer mini glaciers can be Range on the North. The region is rocky and arid Lower Elevation sagebrush steppe flora includes Woodland / Farmland / Orchard, Forests / Open found in some lower elevation forests and alpine on the Southern approach from Yerevan, with Gladiolus atroviolaceus, Nigella oxypetala, Forests, Mountain Forest Areas, Subalpine / fields of wildflowers. wildlife and settlements hugging the Hrazdan River Actynolema macrolema, Gundelia tournefort, Mountain Meadow, Alpine. that cuts through the heart of the district. The Verbascum saccatum, Lallemanita iberica,

For the naturalist, lower Mt. Aragats is the place to Hrazdan is the second largest river in Armenia and Roemeria retracta, Scabiosa argentea, Scorronera Other Fauna On Aragats, mountain leopard (very go to find wildlife and relief from the broiling the location where one million BCE skulls were paposa, Muscari beglecta, Stchys inflata, rare), caucasian wildcat, caucasian ram and summer heat. The mountain is the base for recently uncovered. It is also a unique ecosystem Astragalus distyophysus, A. kochianus, Achillea mountain goat (very rare), mole, lynx, porcupine, numerous dachas, pensions (a kind of summer like that found on the Amberd river. A natural tenuifolia, Helichrysum rubicundum, Silena squirrel and marten. In Kotaik, deer, wildcat, resort popular in the former Soviet Union), camps divide between mountain ranges, the Hrazdan has spergulifolia. mountain leopard (very rare), squirrel, wild bore, and hiking trails. The base of the mountain is carved a canyon that winds its way to the Ararat lynx, nutria, white panther (extremely rare), fox covered with canyons and rivers that run to the Valley floor, supporting small forests and a River Gorge flora include Alkanna orientalis, and bear. Ararat Valley to the West and the mountain diversity of wildlife along the way. The contrast is Cerasus incana, Prus, salicifolia, Cerasus mahaleb, plateau in Kotaik District to the North and East. most startling in the area from Bjini to Yerevan,

Thermal and Mineral Springs In Aragatsotn, armeniaca, S. grossheimii, Artemisia absinthium, irrigated valley floor with marshlands and lakes calcium cold water springs are located by Kari Lich, The lake is graced with pebble and granular sand Spiraea crenata. rolling up to river canyons, mountain steppes, with hundreds of fresh water, sodium and natural beaches on all sides, and the formation of a Nature forests and alpine meadows on the Geghama Lehr. hydrocarbonate springs located throughout the Preserve in the 1970’s has created some of the Sevan Pass and mountain flora include Iris furcata, mountain area. Thermal Springs in Kotaik include most dramatically beautiful wilderness areas in the Anemone fasciculata, A. raminculoides, Primula The rich deposits of lava that streamed into the several types of minerals, including calcium, country. A rare mountain lake marshland on the ruprechtii, P. macrocalyx, Trollius patulus, Caltha Ararat Valley created spectacular rock formations sodium and natural hydrocarbonate. Kotaik is very Southernmost side is home to wetland birds never polypetala, Veratium lobelianum, Palsatilla and one of the largest deposits of tuf and basalt in rich with natural cold water springs, including seen at this altitude in other parts of the world, armena, Corydalis persica, Fritillaria caucasica, Europe and Western Asia. Covering huge those at Bjini. Springs are located at Bjini, among them the Stork and Pelican. The lake itself Betonica grandiflora, Prunus spinosa, Sedum primordial lakes and swamps, the enriched soil Hrazdan, Hankavan, and along the Hrazdan River. is home to a protected species of Ishkhan (a trout pilosum, Sempervivum transcaucasicum, Malus ‘fermented’ over millions of years to create one of Warm and Hot Springs are also located along the called the Prince of fish) and Sig, which are orientalis, Pyrus caucasicus. the two most fertile lands in Western Asia, the Hrazdan River at Bjini, as well as Hankavan and officially protected from capture, but often appear other being the land around Van in historic Arzni, which have Spas. on beachside restaurant menus. Birds Click for Birds By Habitat: Mountain Steppe Armenia, present day Anatolia. As late as 1300 Wetland, Rocky Cliff, Mountain Slope, Woodland / BCE the valleys were noted by Urartian and The lake is in jeopardy and has been the focus of Farmland / Orchard, Forests / Open Forests, Assyrian chroniclers as teeming with wildlife and constant study (but little actual assistance) from Subalpine / Mountain Meadow. deciduous forests. The museums at Erebuni the United Nations, the World Bank, and before displays wood trestles logged in the Urartu period, that, the Soviet regime. For more information, see Other Fauna Wild Armenian Goat, Wild Ram, while excavations at Metsamor have uncovered Ecological Concerns. mountain leopard (endangered species), wild bore, wooden fragments more than 6000 years old. fox, wildcat, Ishkhan and Sig. What remains of that great valley forest now are a Minerals, Stone, Gems few woodlands along river beds, hundreds of small The mountains are formed from lava rocks like Thermal and Mineral Springs Most of the marshlands, semi-desert terrain on the Western basalt, perlite and limestone, while tectonic plate springs in Gegharkunik are by Gavar and Martuni, and Southeastern edges and the heavily farmed compression created marble, and granite. Minerals including fresh water, naturally chlorinated, valley floor. and soil include clay, peat, molibden, gold, copper naturally carbonated and sulfur carbonate. The and silver, while gems include diamonds. Since springs are located by Gavar, Martuni, Karadzi at Most of the deforestation was probably complete most of the region is protected, very few mines are Argichi River, Sarukhan, Tzovak and close to the before the rise of the Urartu Empire in the 10th in operation (or admitted to be operating), the Sulemi Pass in the Geghama Lehr. One spring lies century BCE and its adverse affects were recorded most notable exception being the gold mine at at T'tujur, north of Chambak. as early as the reign of Argishti I and King Russa, Sodk. who both left behind cuneiform tablets attesting to turning “deserts into paradise” with their new GEGHARKUNIK (SEVAN) MARZ irrigation systems. The same irrigation canals can Overview Gegharkunik is surrouned by dormant be found throughout the valley around Yerevan, volcanic mountains. On the Southwestern edge are and modern extensions begun in the 1930’s have the Geghama Lehr (Geghama Mountain Range), on reclaimed much of the semi-desert areas in the the south and southeastern rim lie the Vardenis Valley. Irrigation was restricted in the mid-1980's, Mountain Range, and to the east and northeast lie and the area between Artik and Aruch and the Sevan and Areguni Mountain Ranges. All the Southeast of Ararat City have returned to their mountains were formed over millions of years by a semi-desert state. series of volcanic eruptions. The entire valley lies between the Shirak Plateau, The heart of Gegharkunik is Lake Sevan, which Mt. Aragats, the Geghama Lehr and Mt. Ararat in was known in ancient times as the Gegham Sea. present day Turkey. Ararat has two peak, the Lake Sevan is divided into two sections: Big Sevan larger called “Masis” (5165m/16,942f) and the and Small Sevan. Big Sevan is 972 square smaller "Sis" (3925m/12,875f). Sis is a perfectly kilometers, with a maximum depth of 46 meters. shaped cone, like Mt. Fuji in Japan, and together Small Sevan is 284 square kilometers, with its with Masis forms one of the most beautiful vistas maximum depth at 99 meters. The lake is 1897 ARARAT VALLEY ECOLOGY in the world. Legends ascribe the beginning of meters above sea level. The lake is fed by 28 Flora Sevan Shore flora include Prangos ferulacea, modern mankind to Mt. Ararat, the place where rivers and streams, and is the source for the Eremurus spectabilis, Tulipa julia, Iris paradoxa, ARMAVIR-ARARAT MARZ Noah’s ark is recorded in the bible to have landed Hrazdan River, which connects Sevan with the iris caucasica, Scutellaxia orientalis, Crambe Overview Ararat Valley has one of the greatest after the Great Flood. Arax River in the Ararat valley, and is the site orientalis, Cleome ornithovodioides, Gypsophila diversities of flora and fauna in the country, where a 1 million BCE Homo sapiens skull was elegans, Senecio vernalis, Silene chlorantha, beginning with Desert and Semi-Desert terrain Though stripped of its primordial forests, Ararat discovered near Bjini. Reichardia dichotoma, Srophularia olgae, S. West of Ashtarak that evolves through the Valley does have one of the largest of the nature

Natural Armenia: page 14 of 48 - © 2005 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition preserves in Armenia, the Khosrov Argelots “Klahreezes” which were later built throughout Widespread, Urban / Suburban, Lakes / closed off Lake Sevan from its old southern (Preserve) or Khosrov Antar (forest), named after Asia Minor, and the canal and tunnel are the oldest Reservoirs / Fish Ponds / Wetlands, Mountain territory. Inside the crater is a 14th century stone King Khosrov II Kotaka (reigned 332-339 CE), the functioning hydra projects of their kind. Other Steppe Wetland, Valley / Lowland, Scrub, Semi- chapel. founder of the capital at Dvin. Khosrov ordered ancient canals can be seen along the road to Desert to Mountain Steppe, Mountain Steppe, the planting of a forest on both sides of and Ashtarak and Echmiadzin, including the misnamed Rocky Cliff / River Gorge, Mountain Slope, Upper The district encompasses semi-desert terrain on running the length of the Azat River. The forest Semiramis or Shamiram canal, attributed by Mountain Cliff and Gorge, Woodland / Farmland / west that rises to towering basalt, granite and tuf remains to this day, having grown beyond it legend to the Babylonian queen Semiramis, but in Orchard, Subalpine / Mountain Meadow, Alpine. rock formations at the Geghama Lehr pass before original boundaries to encompass most of the fact engineered by King Menuas I or earlier. tumbling into the Yelpin and Arpa river valleys. Goghi River above Garni and Geghard, and a large Further expansion of the canal network beginning Other Fauna Endangered species include the wild The apex of the mountain pass has a stunning area between the Azat, Khosrov, Mankuk and Vedi in the 1930’s opened up vast tracks of semi-desert bore, leopard, royal stag, wild ram and mountain view of Ararat, and a few bends in the road give Rivers on the eastern side of Ararat District. land West of Ashtarak and the area around the goat (Khosrov Nature Preserve). Others include ample opportunity to photograph the majestic town of Ararat. the lynx, deer, wild bore, wildcat, reed wildcat, mountain, which seems much smaller than from Ararat Valley has extensive water resources that prairie dog, mole and nutria. the Ararat valley floor. Myriad shades of red, black continue to support large wetland areas. Minerals, Stones, Gems Ararat Valley contains and chalk colored rock jut from the sides of the Marshlands can be found by Masis, Metsamor, large concentrations of volcanic rock (tuf, pumice, Thermal and Mineral Springs Thermal Springs mountains, looking like they were dropped by Artashat and Ararat City, home to a diverse perlite) as well as basalt, gypsum, andesite, in Ararat Valley include several types of minerals, spoonfuls of lava from the sky, or precision cut waterfowl population, including storks, cranes, limestone, marble and granite. Minerals include including calcium, sodium and natural into quartz formations. Still other formations are seagulls and Dalmatian pelicans. Much of the quartz, agate, obsidian, silver and copper. Hydrocarbonate. Cold mineral and sweet water reminiscent of the American Southwest, where water has been shepherded into ponds and lakes Minerals and gems include obsidian, amethyst, springs are located near Yerevan, Metsamor, sheer masses of rocks suddenly erupt into view, for breeding fish, which has encouraged additional andesine, andelusite, emerald, garnet, beryl, Massis, Jerahovit and Artashat. Warm and Hot slashes of red, black and ochre in a desert diversity in water flora and fauna. Several turquoise, several grades of quartz, carnelian, Mineral Springs are located near Vedi and Ararat. landscape. varieties of reeds, water lilies and ferns thrive in aquamarine and lapis lazuli. these marshland areas, which themselves are SOUTH ARMENIA ECOLOGY The Yelpin valley drops from the side of the surrounded by cultivated land or semi-desert highway almost half a kilometer, with “stacked terrain. rock” formations rising even with the road. The effect is like a Technicolor Chinese ink painting, where lonely pines cling to towering rocks over lush vegetation. And this is only the beginning of the district called “the jewel of Siunik” by a 10th c. royal princess. The main highway though Vayots Dzor follows the Arpa River, which itself has carved a path through otherwise impassable mountains. The Arpa supports a ribbon of green growth through the otherwise arid rocky terrain, including the vineyard region of Areni, known for the dry and semi-sweet wine which bears its name. In fact the valley produces more apricots and wild rice than grapes. The wild rice thrives along the wet marshlands, just as when it was first cultivated around 15,000 years ago. Flora Flora in Ararat Valley includes Gladiolus atroviolaceus, Nigella oxypetala, Actynolema VAYOTS DZOR MARZ macrolema, Gundelia tournefort, Verbascum Overview Vayots Dzor is bordered by the Irrigation The Ararat valley is heavily irrigated to saccatum, Lallemanita iberica, Roemeria retracta, Vardenis, Zangezur and Nakhichevan Mountain produce agricultural crops though a system of Scabiosa argentea, Scorronera paposa, Muscari Ranges, with the Vaik mountains crossing its canals dating back to the 5th millennium BCE, beglecta, Stchys inflata, Astragalus distyophysus, southern area. The district’s northern border was expanded by the Urartu Empire between 900-600 A. kochianus, Achillea tenuifolia, Helichrysum formed by volcanoes along the Vardenis Mountain BCE. Traces of the original canals can still be rubicundum, Silena spergulifolia. Range, the most beautiful of which is Vayots Sahr, found in the Hrazdan canyon in Yerevan, including a hangats herabukh (dormant volcano). Active in the Dalma canal, which begins with a 400 meter Birds The Ararat Valley has the greatest variety the Pleistocene era, the volcano is 2580 meters tunnel bored into the side of solid rock to allow of birds in Armenia, and the largest population of (8,463 feet) high. The crater’s diameter is 600 passage of Hrazdan river waters into the historic water birds. In the Spring time, the marshes, fish meters (1,968 feet) across. Descending 125 Dalma Vineyards. The engineering feat of this ponds, river beds and lakes are filled with nesting meters to the crater floor, you can sense the Urartian tunnel and canal is the forerunner of the birds. (Cross refrence with Birds by Habitat p. 25) immense explosions that spewed fertile lava and

bracteatum, Illium akana, Tulipa julia, Corydalis augustifolius, Orni-thogalum mountanum, O. gussonei, Campanula choziatorskyi, Bellevalia longystila, Muscari neglecta, Lotus goebelia, Astragalus strictifolius, Serratula serratuloides, Tomanthea aucheri, Malus oreientalis, Prunus divaricata, Sorbus graeca, S. persica, S. aucuparia, Crataegus orientalis, C. lacimiata.

Other flora include Iris lineolata, I. Caucasia, Merendera mirzoeval, Colchicum szovitsii, Gagea ssp., Puschninia scilloides, Draba ssp., Lallemantia caneseens, Ranunculur ssp., Myosotis alpestris, Pedicularis ssp., Trifolium ssp., Gladiolus Photograph courtesy Tigran Nazaryan © kotschyanus, Silene ssp. SIUNIK MARZ Caves Vayots Dzor is also noted for its extensive Noravank Canyon includes Clematis orientalis, C. Overview Siunik has the greatest variety of Tributaries to the Arpa wind through spectacular cave system, including the Archeri (Bear’s), Magili vitalba, Reichardia dichotoma, Vitis sylvestris, terrain in Armenia, including the dry sub-tropic rock formations and cliffs into the deep recesses of and Jerovank caverns, rated the three best in Pistacia mutica, Noaea minuta, Mixauxsia and dry mediterranean zones near Meghri. The the district, where the bulk of the wildlife and early Europe by members of the French Speleological laevigata, Leus orientalis, Serratula serratuloides, longest mountain range in Armenia, the Zangezur settlements can be found. Deciduous and conifer Society. Archeri and Magili are two of the largest in Yurinea arachnoidea, Y. pulchella, Silene megeri. Mountains, divides the District from Vayots Dzor woodlands rise above the riverbeds, while the the Transcaucasus, and home to several rare and from its eastern border with Nakhichevan. rocky cliffs support mountain scrub and pine. species of fruit bat. The bats are the non blood- Birds (Cross refrence with Birds by Habitat p. 25) Three of the five tallest mountains in Armenia lie Above all this is a huge mountain steppe, alpine sucking types, and crucial to the pollination and Wetlands, Mountain Steppe Wetland, Valley / along this range, Kaputiugh (3904m/12,805f), and forest ecosystem, supporting a diversity of cultivation of fruit in the region, including some of Lowland, Scrub, Semi-Desert to Mountain Steppe, Ghazangiol (3829m/12,559f) and the Aychingil flora and fauna second only to that in Siunik. the oldest apricot plantations in Asia Minor. Archeri Mountain Steppe, Rocky Cliff / River Gorge, Mountain Pass (3707m/12,159f), all in Kapan Literally within five kilometers one passes through and Magili Caverns are home to hundreds of Mountain Slope, Upper Mountain Cliff and Gorge, District. semi-desert, high plateau brush and mountain stalagmites and stalactites. Formed by thousands Woodland / Farmland / Orchard. steppe to forests and alpine meadows. Officially in of years of calcite deposits dripping from ground Sissian District is noted for its vast stretch of a semi-desert zone, much of Vayots Dzor is water, the formations and varieties of colors are Other Fauna Primary species include caucasian alpine meadows, hemmed in by the Zangezur blessed with year-round precipitation so that stunning, some pure white, others a translucent goat, ram, mountain leopard (endangered Mountain Range to the West and Southwest, the extensive deciduous and conifer trees vie with smoky glass, still others gold and red in color. species), wild bore, caucasian bear, jackal, lynx, Karabakh Upland to the Northeast and the rocky deserts for domain. Spring begins early in Jerovank is the site of pagan sacrificial rites going mole, porcupine, fox, wildcat, squirrel, marten. Bargushat Mountain Range to the South. The Vayots Dzor, with the first signs of growth back to the 4th millennium BCE, human and region was made from a mixture of volcanic and beginning in the river valleys in late January, animal. The canyon outside the cave is thickly Thermal and Mineral Spring Volcanic activity tectonic plate movements, with the "young" continuing through late October and early forested and a hiker’s paradise. All the caves hold continues at Vayots Dzor, though it is buried far Karabakh Upland mountains (a mere 1.5 to 2 November. Winters are mild, except for the a constant year-round temperature of 14 C (58 F). below the surface and erupts in one of the million years old) mixing with the old folks in the mountain peaks, which are snow-covered from late thousands of thermal springs scattered throughout central plains and Bargushat mountain range (up November to March. Minerals, Stones, Gems Vayots Dzor’s natural the region. The largest are located at Jermuk, at to 60 million years in age). The Northern area is resources are relatively unexplored, though the the of the Okhak Lehr Canyon, where one of two mostly made from volcanic lava (andesite, basalt), The unique rock mountains in Vayots Dzor were area holds large deposits of iron, copper, silver, virgin forests in the district lay. The thermal while the southern, jagged peaks are made from formed as much by shifting tectonic plates as they tin, marble, granite, tuf, perlite, basalt, andesite, springs include several types of minerals, including tuf, granite, marble and iron. were by volcanoes, the earthquakes forcing basalt, obsidian, quartz, barium, sulfur, Sodium chloride, calcium, sodium and natural Hydrocarbonate. limestone, marble, obsidian and granite into tightly clay, aluminum ore and limestone. It is believed Other thermal springs are located near Next to the Ararat Valley, Sissian's alpine zone has compacted formations throughout the district. The that Vayots Dzor was the location of gold, Yeghegnadzor, Noravank, Martiros and Vaik. Cold the richest stretch of fertile land, much of which earthquakes also destroyed a series of settlements turquoise, diamond and lapis lazuli mines during mineral and pure spring water springs are located was planted with wheat during Soviet times, and royal cities, beginning with prehistoric cave the Bronze Age, along with other precious jewels, at just about every bend in the road, river and particularly adjacent to Sissian City. Sissian even settlements in the area around Yeghegnadzor but if this is true, the mines have not been found stream, but large pools for wading or swimming has a small museum devoted to wheat, located through one of the most beautiful medieval cities in the modern age. can be found near Jerovank, Jermuk and Yeghegis. inside "Hotsatun", also Sissian's best restaurant. in Armenia, Yeghegis. Ancestral Armenians first settled the area in the Flora River Gorge flora include Alkanna orientalis, Mesolithic period, developing a specific culture that Cerasus incana, Prus, salicifolia, Cerasus mahaleb, framed its rich soil and mined the area for iron, Amygdalus ferzlinia, Spirala crenata, Saxifraga precious minerals and copper. cymbalaria, Linaria armeniaca, Acantholimon

Goris District shares the same mountainous expert climbing skills. Moderate to Advanced hiking Kapan and Meghri Mountain Flora include Tulipa borders as Sissian, but the Karabakh Uplands form is available throughout the district, and required to florensvyi, T. confusa: f. pink, f. red, f. yellow, Iris the bulk of its landmass, with large limestone and see some of the most interesting historic and grossheimii, I. Paradoxa, I. Caucasica, I. basalt "needle stones" crowding the river canyons natural sites. Pseudocaucasica, I. Atropatana, Mesendera and mountainsides. Rising up to half a kilometer candissima, Colchicum zangezurum, Hyacintella each, the needle stones are concentrated in the The town of Meghri, on the southern border with atropatana, Fritillaria kurdica, F. armena, Orchis city of Goris (built in the 19th century by German Iran lies in a Dry Sub-Tropic and Mediterranean simma, O. schelvcornikovii, O. stvenii, O. Swiss and the De Gaulle family, who built the first zone, and has the longest growing season of all coriphora, Steveniella satyroides, Cephalanthera gold and diamond mines in the region), and the districts. Here it is possible to find non-native epipactoides, Epipactis latifolia, Acantholimon Khundzoresk. Goris lies deep inside a river gorge palms, palmettos and citrus plants (lemon, lime), fedorovii, Reseda globulosa, Cercis griffithii, surrounded by pristine pine, oak and elm trees. as well as native Mediterranean ferns, Gladiolus szovitsii, G. atroviolaceus, G. italicus, Khundzoresk is called Armenia's "Lost Valley ". pomegranate and olive trees. Punica granatum (wild), Tournefortia siberia, One of nature's splendors, Khundzoresk was a Calendula persica. town built entirely from hundreds of caves carved Minerals, Stones, Gems High quality marble is since the early Bronze Age. The canyon is mined just north of Sissian, along with limestone, Northern Meghri and Kapan flora include Iris terraced, with homes interconnected by carved tuf, basalt and granite. Goris includes the same, imbricata, Tulipa sosnovskyi, Fritillaria pinardii, F. tunnels, in case of invasion by Persians, Seljuks or Kapan and Meghri Kapan and Meghri Districts adding iron and diatomite. Kapan and Meghri hold armenia, Colchicum ninae, C. Szovitsii, Merendera Turks. The caves were inhabited until as late as are the most varied and stunning districts of the vast quantities of granite, aluminum, polymetal, raddeana, Crocus asamii, Corydalis persica, until 1980, when the last family moved out. country, the rich forestland a part of a unique molibden, tungsten, perlite, and limestone, along Ornithogalum sigmoideum, O. transcaucasicum, microclimate. While the river canyon may be hot with tuf and basalt. Genista transcaucasica, Mespilus germanica, Scilla Goris region also holds the Vorotan River Canyon, and humid in summertime, moisture building up mistscheukoana. with its headwaters at two lakes in the Karabakh over Mts. Khustup and Ghazangiol blanket upper Minerals found throughout Siunik include Uplands. By the time it reaches Goris District, the elevations with fog, bringing cooler temperatures molibden, obsidian, quartz, barium, sulfur, Kapan and Vorotan flora include Iris lineolata, I. river has carved a canyon more than a kilometer and afternoon showers in the lower regions. The Mercury, Barium, Sodium Chloride, gold, Paradoxa, I. Caucasica, Allium stamineum, deep and wide. Called Armenia's Grand Canyon, mountains also protect the region from the diamonds, copper, tin, silver and high-quality Bellevalia paradoxa, B. longystila, Muscari entire sub mountains lie in the center of the harshest winter weather. The mountains are ceramic clay. Especially in Goris and Kapan there atropatana, M. sosnovskyi, Tulipa Sosnovskyi, canyon, and millions of years of volcanic eruption covered with deep white snow, but the valley itself may be large deposits of precious gems (quarts, Punica granatum, Vinca Vitis sylvestris, Ficus and compression reveal strata of red, yellow, experiences suprisingly mild weather--the first amethyst, carnelian, aquamarine, lapis lazuli and carica (wild). black, bronze, ochre, and white striated granite, freeze may not occur until January, and spring diamonds), but they are not currently being basalt, tuf and marble. Tatev Monastery is perched resumes by mid February. Blessed with pure mined. Another treat from the flora kingdom in Siunik are on the edge of the canyon, near Devil's Gorge, a natural resources, Kapan district holds a treasure the giant mountain mushrooms that appear in the hot spring that gushes more than a million gallons trove of natural splendors. Not so easy to reach as spring and early summer. Huge white specimins of water a day. other districts of the country, Kapan is also blessed are sold by the roadside near Sissian. They are by being relatively unvisited, so with an extra few wonderful treats, with a slightly nutty taste. Hydroelectric plants lie at the base of the gorge, days on your schedule, a sturdy car, and a Excellent cooking! which supplied surplus power for the country until wandering spirit, you can experience traditional life the 1989 energy blockade by Turkey and unhampered by tourist hoards. Azerbaijan. Additional development will continue to harness the waters of the Vorotan and its Kapan City lies at the opening of the Voghji River tributaries, contributing 10% to the country's canyon onto the Arax River plain to the Southeast. needs. Two of Armenia’s five tallest mountains lie in Kapan District. Mts. Kaputiugh (3904m/12,805f) Just south of Goris City a vast forest begins, the and Ghazangiol (3829m/12,559f) lie on the second largest in Armenia. Stretching to the Zangezour Range, which forms the Western border Iranian border at Meghri, the forest is teeming between Kapan District and Nakhichevan. The with wildlife. The are is covered with coniferous Bargushat Range forms the Northern border with and deciduous forests that suddenly plunge into Sissian and Goris Districts, while the Meghri semi-desert land on the eastern borders. Mountain Range lie between Kapan and Meghri Flora Sissian and Goris flora include Iris lineolata, Evergreen, Large Oak, Dry Oak, and Georgian Oak Districts. The Eastern border with Azerbaijan is I. Caucasica, Merendera mirzoeval, Colchicum formed by ever decreasing mountains and hills Szoritsii, Gagea ssp., Puschkinia scilloides, Draba fill the region with some of the most lush flora and fauna in the country. that suddenly give way to the Giogian Steppe. Mt. ssp., Lallemautia caneseeus, Ranunculus ssp., Khustup, at 3201 meters (10,499 feet) is one of Myosotis alpestris, Pedicularis ssp., Trifolium ssp., Birds (Cross refrence with Birds by Habitat p. 25) the most forbidding challenges for mountain Gladiolus kotschyanus, Silene ssp. Wetlands, Mountain Steppe Wetland, Valley / climbers, with sheer walls of granite requiring Lowland, Scrub, Semi-Desert to Mountain Steppe,

Mountain Steppe, Rocky Cliff / River Gorge, Dzor. The Caucasian Bearded Goat population has Armenia, formed in 1997 to coordinate Eco-NGO Mountain Slope, Upper Mountain Cliff and Gorge, decreased dramatically, from about 700 in 1970 to efforts to provide environmental sensitive, Woodland / Farmland / Orchard, Forests / Open no more than 70 or 80 today. The decrease in sustainable ecotourism in Armenia. MSU derives Forests, Subalpine / Mountain Meadow, Alpine. population is due to illegal poaching and funding for their ecological programming by giving agricultural development into their natural professionally guided mountain climbing, hiking, Other Fauna Kapan City and its immediate environment, and preservation depends on horseback riding, Sevan Sailing and Water sports surroundings lie on the Iranian Plateau, a semi- breeding and artificial insemination in carefully and camping trips througout the country. They arid land inhabited by field deer, jackals and controlled environs. Caucasian Bearded Goats can also arrange exchange programs and specific marten. Immediately to the West of Kapan City, also be found in Israel, the mountains of Syria and expeditions for biologists, botanists, geologists, between Goris and Meghri the landscape suddenly Anatolia. naturalists and ecologists. For information about changes, marking the border of the Caucasian their tours, contact Shahen at Tel (37410) 56-86- Land mass, with wild mountain goats, lynx, Armenian Muflon (ovis ammon gmelin Blyth). 90. porcupines and sylvan wild cats. There are still a Endangered Species listed in the Red Book. In few wild boars in the deepest parts of the forest, 1970 there were between 200-400, now there are Ecological and Cultural organization KHAZER and even the rare Caucasian leopard in the most only 42 known alive. Habitat is the Khosrov Amalia Hambartsumyan (Chairman) remote mountain areas. This territory is pocked Preserve, and they live between 800-3900 meters 35 Moskovian St.,Yerevan, Republic of Armenia, with small sections of the Asia Minor Plateau, with altitude. They live on mountain slopes and on 375002, tel. (37410) 53 44 72, (37410) 53 81 87 a few jackals, reed wildcats, hawks and eagles ECOLOGICAL PROBLEMS 666 mountain field plateaus. The sheep are [email protected], Preservation of the Armenian crossing between nature zones. Sissian is home to endangered because of illegal poaching and the Cultural inheritance, increasing the awareness of part of the surviving Caucasian bearded goat and LAKE SEVAN development of agriculture in Armenia. ecologically relevant issues. Assistance to UNEP wild ram. By diverting part of its water resources to increase Preservation depends on artificial insemination in ideas expansion in Armenia. irrigation and to generate electricity, the lake was carefully controlled environments for later release. Thermal and Mineral Springs Sissian and Goris a key component of the Soviet era technological Armenian Foresters' Association Karen Ter- have many mineral springs, including carbonated development of the country. As a result, though, Leopard (panthera pardus tullianus), lives in Ghazarian (President) 35, Moskovian St, Yerevan, calcium, carbonated sodium, calcium, carbonated the water table dropped dramatically, endangering mountain forests and high altitude canyons. There Republic of Armenia, 375002, tel. (37410) 53 07 pure, and fresh water springs. Best known springs the entire ecosystem, and the water supply for the are no more than 25 leopards in Armenia, due to 52; 56 63 35; 58 36 55; [email protected] are located in Sissian District at the Karbakh country. In the 1970 s to 1980 s, partial encroachment and illegal hunting in their Teach refugees to choose and chop the trees Upland, Spandarian Reservoir, Angeghakot, Sissian restoration of water tables was achieved with environment. correctly; create a greenhouse, organize a (3), Hastavan, Akhlatian, Shamb and Lor. In Goris several reservoirs built near the lake as well as the woodworking center (to produce ashtrays, District, springs can be found in Goris, and by massive 49 kilometer Arpa-Sevan water tunnel, Programs to Help: Members of the Mountain toothpicks, etc.); pottery. Khundzoresk, Karahundj, Halidzor and Bartsravan. which was bored through the Vardenis Mountain Sports Union and other Eco NGO's are actively Range to supplement water supplies. Several involved in the preservation of these endangered Computers for Saving the Earth Ivan Vardanian Kapan is covered with hundreds of mountain other reservoirs and canals were planned to divert species. A cooperative program with Israel to (President) 1, Toumanyan St, Apt.31, Yerevan, springs, among them two large hot carbonated water to the lake, but with the collapse of the breed the bearded goats continues, but additional Republik of Armenia, 375002 (37410) 58 23 87. springs. The water is naturally calcium carbonate, Soviet Union, the plans were never implemented, support is badly needed. Create a system of an appropriate use of and a welcome respite for sore feet, muscles and and the energy blockade on the country by Turkey computers and information technologies to bones. The two hot springs are located in the and Azerbaijan forced the government to further ECO-NGOs stabilize the Earth's environment. Eastern part of the district, one at Kapan City, and deplete water levels by increasing hydro-electric Non-governmental ecological organizations in one by Nerkin Hand (about 12 kilometers below production. Armenia have grown at a steady pace since the Ecological Assembly of the Women of Armenia Rita Kapan City on one of the most scenic roads in the days of Glasnost, despite the difficulties of the past Aivasova (President) 68, Abovian St. Yerevan, district). The two heated springs are rated Now thje lake suffers from too much suiccess in seven years. Despite skepticism from a population Republic of Armenia, 375025, tel. (37410) 26 80 between 20-37 degrees C, or 68-95 degrees F, but solving its problems, the new Arpa tunnel doing anything it can simply to make money, and 04. (37410) 58 02 54 [email protected] our "soak test" gave them a rating on the upper funneling so much water at such afst rate it further a government that is still searching for a definition Increase awareness of ecologically relevant issues; temperature range. In Meghri District, Carbonated endangers the ecosystem, threatengin to literally of conservation, agencies do exist which are ecological research; elaboration of environmental Sodium Cold Water Springs are located near Lichk, drown the eocology that struggles along the working at the grass roots level to protect and projects; support of professional women; peace Aldara and Maratzami, Carbonated Calcium and shoreline. maintain valuable eco-systems. A few of the and human rights. Calcium warm water springs are located near better known local non-profits: Meghri, and Carbonated Calcium and Calcium ENDANGERED SPECIES Ecology Fund of Armenia Boris Mehrabian warm cold springs by Maratzami. CAUCASIAN Bearded Goat: (capra aegagrus F. Mountain Sports Union provides Ecological (President) 49 Komitas Ave., Rms 302-304 rxl.) Listed in the Red Book for endangered education awareness, ecological summer camps ,Yerevan, Republic of Armenia, 375051, tel. species, the Caucasian Bearded Goat inhabits for school children, cleanup and nature (37410) 23 69 00; 22 30 58 (37410) 285 030 rocky mountains between altitude 2000-3900 maintenance, and endangered species [email protected] Scientific evaluation of the meters. Their main habitat is in the Khosrov programming. The founders of the MSU are also ecological situation in RA based on recent research Nature Preserve and the mountains of Vayots co-founders of the EcoTourism Association of

ECOTEAM of Armenia non-governmental issues of Armenia and contribute to scientific Armenia and Transcaucasus region, improvement organization Artashes Sarkissian (Chairman) 22a educational activities. Union of Young Biologists Areg Tatevosian of water resources quality to meet the interests of Abovian St., Apt.53 Yerevan, Republic of Armenia, (President) 12, Nor Aresh St. 32, Yerevan, wider population by means of scientific research, 375002, tel. (37410) 52 92 77 EPAC Environmental Public Advocacy Center Aida Republic of Armenia, 375000, tel. (37410) 45 88 expertise, public advocacy and publishing [email protected] [email protected] Iskoyan (President) 11, Parpeci St., apt.2, 63, To advance the ecological science in Armenia; activities. Design complex projects based on renewable Yerevan, Republic of Armenia, 375002, tel. to help develop the professional skills of young sources of energy and energy saving technologies (37410) 53 06 69, (37410) 53 06 69, biologists; to help develop the public health sector "Environmental monitoring" non- governmental [email protected], Increase public participation in Armenia. organization Satenik Ter-Minasyan (Chairman) 7, Greens Union of Armenia Hakob Sanasarian in environmental decision -making in Armenia by Bagratuniac, 3-rd by street, Yerevan, Republic of (President) 1/5 P.Sevaki, Yerevan, Republic of representing and advocating the interests of Speleological Center of Armenia Samvel Shahinian Armenia, 375006, tel. (37410) 64-23-61, (37410) Armenia, 375000, tel. (37410) 28 14 11, (37410) individuals and citizen groups. (President) 68, Abovian St., Yerevan, Republic of 64-23-61, [email protected], To implement 25 76 34 [email protected], Protect the Armenia, 375025, tel. (37410) 56 02 35; 65 72 ecological monitoring of RA, promote development environment and promote ecology; getlaws passed Union of Armenian Ecologists Rafael Hovhannisian 10, Scientific research in the field of speleology, of natural history and education. Promote and to protect environment; promote alternative and (President) 24 D, Baghramian Ave., room 1112, ecological issues, nature preservation contribute to increasing knowledge of community safe sources of energy. Yerevan, Republic of Armenia, 375019, tel. about problems related to ecological monitoring of (37410) 27 34 28, [email protected], Help to "Nature protectors" Eduard Javruian (Chairman) 8, RA and their popularization. Sustainable Development Victoria Ter-Nikoghosian improve Armenia's ecological state through Charents Str., Biology Faculty of the Yerevan State (President) 1a, Roubiniants St., Apt. 34, Yerevan, consultancy, dissemination of information and University, Yerevan, Republic of Armenia, 375000, GOVERNMENT Republic of Armenia, 375069, tel. (37410) 22 50 publishing activities. tel. (37410) 63 31 89; 55 67 78, To assist in The Ministry for Nature Protection (Vice-Minister 63, Increasing awareness of the public of the protection against poaching and lumbering; to Office: Tel (37410) 53-31-81; fax: 53-49-02; 35 ecologically relevant issues and importance of the Ecotourism Association Zhanna Galyan (President) protect natural areas. Moskovian St. Yerevan 375002) includes ecologically safe environment elaboration of 2 Hakob Hakobyan St., Apt.22, Yerevan, Republic environmental engineering, zoology, biology, environmental draft laws and projects of Armenia, 375000, tel. (37410) 27 87 28, Environmental Organizations Union of Armenia biodiversity, forestry, parks and land departments, [email protected], Contribute to the Armen Saghatelian 68, Abovian Str., Yerevan, as well as many of the most informed ecology BYARAKN Melania Davtian (President) 19, development of ecotourism in Armenia, as a Republic of Armenia, 375025, tel. (37410) 55 13 specialists in the country. The ministriy sells Nalbandian St., Apt. 34, Yerevan, Republic of means of achieving harmony between the society 61, (37410) 58 02 54, [email protected], lumber and mining concessions to investors and is Armenia, 375002, tel. (37410) 52 44 84; 57 22 and nature, rehabilitation of the human being's Armenian environmental organizations considerd one of the most corrupt mionsteries in 46; 56 37 19, [email protected], Ecological cultural and natural environment and its colaboration and coordinaton. the country. education of different layer of the society, preservation. education of children; ecological research and Alternative education and cultural Center of dissemination of ecologically relevant information. Armenian Botanical Society Eleonora Gabrielian Armenia Marine Khachatur (Chairman ) 13 Hrachia FLORA AND FAUNA (President) Avan-63, Institute of Botany of the Kochar Str., Apt. 23, Yerevan, Republic of Armenian Branch of International Academy of National Academy of SciencesYerevan, Republic of Armenia, 375033, tel. (37410) 27 37 24, To Ecology Gevork Pirumian (Chairman) 40b, Tigran Armenia, 375063, tel. (37410) 52 77 68, (37410) increase public awarenes in environmental issues; Metci Ave., Apt 6, Yerevan, Republic of Armenia, 614 241, Active development and preservation of evaluate, organize and implement education 375005, (37410) 55 86 35, Development of fundamental directions of contemporary botanical programs with alternative measures. ecological technologies, ecological research at the portions of Armenia; preservation of Armenia's request of governmental and non-governmental botanical cover Assosiation of Nature Protection Dorik Poghosyan agencies; training courses in ecology; exchange of (Chairman) 68, Abovian St., Yerevan, Republic of specialists. EDEM Plant protection Union Aramais Khachikian Armenia, 375025, tel. (37410) 56 34 31: 25 40 (President) 58, Komitas St., Apt. 53, Yerevan, 68, [email protected], To promote natural Youth Ecological Group – YEG Sergey Arevshatian Republic of Armenia, 375051, tel. (37410) 23 41 resources maintenance, effective use and their (President) 68 Abovyanvv St., EcoCenter, Yerevan, 83, Contribute to the preservation of plants in reproduction in Armenia, top organize adopted Republic of Armenia, 375025, tel. (37410) 56 22 Armenia; explore new species; help to monitor the environmental legislation propaganda, to assist the 45; 72 07 98; 56 03 57, (37410) 58 02 54, areas with rare plants; conduct training for public population to be the participant in environmental [email protected], Increase the awareness of at large on preservation of rare plants. activities. the youth of ecological issues; ecological actions against environmental pollution Mountaineering Sports Union Araik Nersisian Ecological survival, Dr. Arevik Hovsephyan, Dr. (Chairperson) 13, Paronian Str., Yerevan, Republic Dshkhuhi Sahakyan, Dr. Evelina Ghukasyan, 908, Environmental Survival Organization Boris of Armenia, 375000, tel. (37410) 53 49 61; 35 27 24D, Marshal Bagramyan ave. Yerevan, epublic of FLOWER ARMENIA 888 Gabrielian (President) 24 D, Baghramian Ave., Rm. 02; 58 85 93, Promote mountaineering sports in Armenia, 375019, tel. 52-54-24, 27-93-35, With 17 vegetation zones, the variety of plant-life 907, Yerevan, Republic of Armenia, 375019, Armenia; provide ecological education to (37410) 52-38-30, [email protected] in Armenia is truly astounding. The country has (37410) 27 92 68; 56 80 27 (Hakobian), sportsmen; plant trees mountainous regions in http://caucasus.virtualave.net, The mission of the everything from desert plants to oak, beech and [email protected], Support research on biodiversity Armenia. Organization is biodiversity conservation in

Natural Armenia: page 19 of 48 - © 2005 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition pine forests, wet marshland and sub-tropic plants genus Gagea(ssp.), Puschkinia scilloides, Draba to alpine meadows teeming with wild flowers. Native to Armenia are the apricot and peach. The ssp., Rindera lanata, Centaurea takhtajanii, apricot was taken by Alexander the Great's army Lallemantia canesens, Ranunculus ssp., Myosotis There are even virgin fields of wild grain, the back to Greece, where the Romans then spread it alpestris, Pedicularis ssp., Trifolium ssp., Gladiolus forebears of the first wheat in the ancient world, throughout Southern Europe. Other fruits that kotschyanus, wild beet species, Silene ssp., etc. believed to have been cultivated in Armenia 12- grow in the country include apples, pears, cherries, 15,000 years ago. Known by their genus names mazzards, plums, pomegranates and an amazing Northern Shirak flora include Iris demetrii, I. Triticum Urartu and Triticum Araraticum, the variety of grapes. The Ararat Valley sustained a pumila, rarest very beautiful endemic Centarea wheat is native to the Ararat valley and can be large cotton industry before vineyards were hajastana, C. carduiformis, C. glehnii, C. found in small protected fields between Yerevan promoted, with further diversification in vegetables polypodiifolia, very rare Verbascum hajastanicum, and Garni. and melons. endemic Alcea sophiae, Asphodeline taurica, Tomanthea aucheri, aucheri, Tulipa julia, Papaver Armenia's flora is so diverse and rich it seems all POPULAR FLORA BY REGION orientale, P. pseudoorientale, Hedysarum elegans, you would have to do is add cacti, palms and a Note: We use the Latin names for flora, a H. formosum, Convolvulus, calvertii, C. lineatus, rain forest, and your would pretty much complete standard form of description for botanical Delphinium ochroleucum, D. freynii, Linaria the world's diversity of plant life. specialists and tourists on flora expeditions. List grandiflora, Scabiosa caucasica, endemic of compiled by Professor Eleanora Gabrielian, Armenia, Sambucus tigranii included into the Armenia has over 3,500 species of plants, more Botanical Institute of Armenia and co-author of In Ararat Valley there is an Erebuni reserve -- International Red Data Book, etc. than half of the 6,000 that can be found in the Flowers of the Trans- caucasus and Adjacent the unique wild crop formation accompanied with entire Transcaucasus region. While Europe has Areas, including Armenia, to be released 2007 (89 very rare and interesting species, many of which In Akhurian River Gorge there are Armenian around 20,000 species, and the entire North euros, Koeltz Scientific Books www.koeltz.com, are included into the Armenian Red Data Book. endemic black currant Ribes achurjanii, Cerasus American continent holds 40,000 species, with a search: Gabrielian, Eleonora) From wild wheats 3 occur in Erebuni reserve: incana, Spiraea crenata, nice light forest with total landmass of just under 30,000 sq. kilometers Triticum Urartu, T. araraticum, T. baeoticum, Populus tremula, between rocks rather rare wild (about the size of Belgium), Armenia's diversity M. Aragats: Flowers in Aragats include Merendera Amblyopyrum muticum, many species of Aegilops, onion with blue flowers, Linum subbiflorum, L. and close proximity of so many different types of trigyna, M. raddeana, Colchicum bifolium, Secale vavilovii, wild barley accompanied by angustifolium, Fumana procumbens, different flora is often breath-taking. Puschkinia scilloides, Scilla armena, S. siberica, Phalaris paradoxa, Nigella oxipetala, Actynolema species of Papaver, Saxifraga cymbalaria, etc. Tulipa julia, Iris caucasica, Muscari caucasicum, macrolema, Gundelia tournefortii, Chardinia Bellevalia pycnantha, Ornithogalum macrolema, Gladiolus atroviolaceus, Iris schelkovnikovii, O. brachystachys, O. hajastanum, elegantissima, Roemeria refracta, Scabiosa O. gabrielianae, Fritillaria caucasica, argentea, Scorzonera papposa, Stachys inflata, Nectaroscordum tripedale, different species of Astragalus distyophysus, A. caragana. Gagea, Myosotis alpestre, Amenone caucasica, Orchis coriophora, Gladiolus tenuis.

Lower Elevation sagebrush semidesert with Artemisia fragrans includes different species of Trigonella, Astragalus kochianus, Iris elegantissima, Gladiolus atroviolaceus, Verbascum saccatum, Lallemanita iberica, Roemeria refracta, Astragalus kochianus, Achillea tenuifolia, Helichrysum rubicundum and others.

River Gorge flora include different species of Salix, Populus, Fraxinus excelsior, Humulus Literally within an hour's drive of Yerevan, 5 lupulus, Calystegia silvestris, C. sepium, Alkanna LORI MARZ completely unique topographies lie, each with its orientalis, Cerasus incana, Pyrus salicifolia, In season flowers: Terrain to 2100 m. alt.: own varieties of flora, many lying on opposite sides Cerasus mahaleb, Amygdalus fenzliana, Spiraea Caucasian endemic, Gladiolus caucasicus, Georgian of the highway. While one side will hold forests crenata, Saxifraga cymbalaria. and Armenian endemic G. dzhavakheticus, G. teeming with woodland species, the other may be tenuis, G. kotschyanus, Zingeria trichopoda, semi-desert, Mediterranean marshland, mountain SHIRAK MARZ Papaver pseudoorientale, Papaver orientale, very steppe or alpine meadow. Forests are home to M. Arteni: Flora of this very interesting mountain rare Scilla rosenii, Rhododendron caucasicum, particular species unique to the Transcaucasus, include Iris elegantissima, I. pumila, I. caucasica, Caltha polypetala, Viola somchetica, Betonica including the Arax Oak, Eastern Beech, Caucasian Merendera greuteri, Colchicum szovitsii, grandiflora, Colchicum umbrosum, Atropa Pine, and a coniferous tree called the 'Tis'. Campanula massalskyi, different species of the belladonna, etc.

cerasifera), pistachio (Pistacia mutica), wild apple Also contact Ori Fragman at [email protected]. Broadleaf forest and subalpine meadow, (Malus orientalis), Mespilus germanica, cornelian Ori works hand in hand with Nora on Armenia 1300-1800 m alt.: Gentiana gelida, G. septemfida cherry (Cornus mas). Botanical tours, as well as guiding tours himself to Geranium sanguineum, Gymnadenia conopsea Israeli flora (East Mediterranean) in the Spring (orchid), Dictamnus albus, Lilium szovitsianum, Wild Berries include the grape (Vitis sylvestris), time. Shinwa Tours, the largest botanical and bird Psephellus somcheticus, Campanula alliariifolia strawberry (Fragaria vesca L.), blackberries watching association in Japan, always combine the (with white flowers), Delphinium freynii (endemic (Rubus armeniacus Focke). two for an extraordinary flower watching tour. to Transcaucasus), Gladiolus caucasicus, Gladiolus dzhavakheticus, Cephalaria gigantea, Aconitum SAMPLE FLOWER TOURS 889 DAY 1: YEREVAN-GARNI-GEGHARD-YEREVAN nasutum, Delphinium freynii, Linaria Garni-Geghard Gorges schelkovnikovii. In-Season Flowers: Terrain up to 1650 m alt.

Lakes near Stepanavan: Water lily, Nymphaea Between Yerevan and Garni along the road in alba, Nymphoides peltata, Utricularia intermedia mountainous sagebrush steppe: with pale yellow flowers, U. vulgaris with bright Gladiolus atroviolaceus, Nigella oxypetala, yellow flowers, Butomus umbellatus, etc. Actynolema macrolema, Gundelia tournefort, Verbascum saccatum, Lallemanita iberica, Wild relatives of crop plants: Fruit trees include SIUNIK MARZ (ZANGEZUR AND MEGHRI Roemeria retracta, Scabiosa argentea, Scorronera the Cherry (Cerasus avium), Mahaleb (Cerasus REGIONS) paposa, Muscari beglecta, Stchys inflata, mahaleb L. Mill), wild plum Prunus cerasifera, Mountains usually covered by luxury oak forests: Astragalus distyophysus, A. kochianus, Achillea Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa). Quercus iberica, Q. macranthera or hornbeam, tenuifolia, Helichrysum rubicundum, Silena Carpinus betulus, C. orientalis forests. Under the spergulifolia. Wild berries: red currant (Ribes biebersteinii), forest, there are endemic snow drop, Galanthus black currant (Ribes armena, R. achurjanii) artjuschenkoae, Scilla caucasica, Allium paradoxa, Garni, Azat River Canyon, 1350 m. alt. including the woodland strawberry (Fragaria vesca Teucrium hyrcanicum, Atropa belladonna etc. Alkanna orientalis, Cerasus incana, Prus, L.), and Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus). salicifolia, Cerasus mahaleb, Amygdalus ferzlinia, In the southern part of Zangezur along the river Spirala crenata, Saxifraga cymbalaria. TAVUSH MARZ Tsav there are the large natural Platanus orientalis ² FLORA SPRING Sevan Pass: forests together with wild Juglans regia, Periploca 7 Day Itinerary in Ararat, Sevan and Siunik Geghard Canyon (Monastery), 1650 m alt. Mountain pass flora include Iris furcata, graeca and others. On screes or rocks there are Linaria armeniaca, Acantholimon bracteatum, Anemone fasciculata, A. ranunculoides, Primula Tulipa florenskyi, T. confusa with pale yellow, pink This sample Itinerary shows the type of flowers Illium akana, Tulipa julia, Corydalis augustifolius, ruprechtii, P. macrocalyx, Trollius patulus, Caltha or red flowers which has fragrance, Fritillaria that should be in season late May to mid June. Orni-thogalum mountanum, O. gussonei, polypetala, Senecio aurantiaca, Lilium armenum, kurdica, F. pinardii subsp. hajastanica, F. armena, While no one can guarantee that all flowers listed Campanula choziatorskyi, Bellevalia longystila, L. szovitsianum, Linum hypericifolium, Gladiolus endemic Colchicum ninae, endemic Iris grossheimii will be in bloom at this exact time period (mother Muscari neglecta, Lotus goebelia, Astragalus tenuis, Papaver pseudoorientale, P. orientale, and Scrophularia takhtajanii. nature follows her own rhythms), the majority of strictifolius, Serratula serratuloides, Tomanthea Myosotis alpestris, Verathrum lobelianum, these listed are the most likely to be found. aucheri, Malus oreientalis, Prunus divaricata, Tanacetum coccineum, etc. In open juniper forest there are Iris paradoxa, Sorbus graeca, S. persica, S. aucuparia, Crataegus I.pseudocaucasica, I. lineolata, Allium stamineum, This itinerary also requires you know botany or orientalis, C. lacimiata. In Sevan Basin, along the Aregoony mts. there Gladiolus szovitsii, G. italicus, Corydalis persica, C. have an expert guide--it requires driving into are open juniper forests with Juniperus polycarpos, verticillaris, Ornithogalum sygmoideum, endemic remote areas of the central and Northern regions J. foetidissima, remainings of depressed oak- Symphyandra zangezura, Linaria zangezura, of the country and a great deal of slogging through forest, mountain ash, Sorbus aucuparia, Psephellus zangezuri, Cousinia gabrielianae, C. terrain. Without expert guidance, your chances to ornamental endemic of the Sevan basin S. megrica, Thlaspi zangezurum, Merendera see many of these flowers is severely limited hajastana, S. roopiana, Fraxinus excelsior, candidissima and Amygdalus naurica; very rare Amelanchier rotundifolia and others. species Vavilovia aucheri, Viola caucasica, Guides: Nora Gabrielian, Professor at the Botanical Acantholimon fedorovii and many others. Institute and internationally recognized scholar, is Between rocks and on screes, endemic Cousinia the most renowned botanical specialist in Armenia, fedorovii, Astragalus calycinus, A. sevangensis, Wild relatives of crop plants: wheat, Secale and is can guide or find guides for serious Acantholimon gabrielianae, cushions of Onobrychis vavilovii, barley, Aegilops species. Fruit trees botanical groups. Her personal guidance is must cornuta covered by purple, pink or white flowers include the Greek Walnut (Junglans regia), be arranged well in advance. If unavailable, she and many other are growing. Mahaleb Cherry (Cerasus mahaleb), Pears (Pyrus will point you to equally qualified persons. Her e- takhtadzianii, P. zangezura, P. raddeana and many mail is [email protected]. She normally is out of other wild pears), fig (Ficus carica), almond the country from December - March of each year. (Amygdalus naurica), wild plum (Prunus

atropatana, Fritillaria kurdica, F. armena, Orchis Prangos ferulacea, Eremurus spectabilis, Tulipa Also contact Ori Fragman at [email protected]. simma, O. schelvcornikovii, O. stvenii, O. julia, Iris paradoxa, iris caucasica, Scutellaxia Ori works hand in hand with Nora on Armenia coriphora, Steveniella satyroides, Cephalanthera orientalis, Crambe orientalis, Cleome Botanical tours, as well as guiding tours himself to epipactoides, Epipactis latifolia, Acantholimon ornithovodioides, Gypsophila elegans, Senecio Israeli flora (East Mediterranean) in the Spring fedorovii, Reseda globulosa, Cercis griffithii, vernalis, Silene chlorantha, Reichardia dichotoma, time. Shinwa Tours, the largest botanical and bird Gladiolus szovitsii, G. atroviolaceus, G. italicus, Srophularia olgae, S. armeniaca, S. grossheimii, watching association in Japan, always combine the Punica granatum (wild), Tournefortia siberia, Artemisia absinthium, Spiraea crenata. two for an extraordinary flower watching tour. Calendula persica. DAY 1: YEREVAN-GARNI-GEGHARD-YEREVAN DAY 4: MEGHRI - KAPAN GORGE In-Season Flowers: Terrain up to 1650 m alt. Flora of Northern Meghri & Kapan Region: Iris imbricata, Tulipa sosnovskyi, Fritillaria Near Voghjaberd, Charents Arch, mountain steppe, pinardii, F. armenia, Colchicum ninae, C. Szovitsii, 1650 m alt. Merendera raddeana, Crocus asamii, Corydalis Acanthophyllum mucronatum, Centaurea persica, Ornithogalum sigmoideum, O. carduiformis, Cnicus benedictus, Phlomis pungens transcaucasicum, Genista transcaucasica, Mespilus germanica, Scilla mistscheukoana. Garni, Azat River Canyon, 1350 m. alt. DAY 2: YEREVAN - Mt. ARAGATS - YEREVAN Alkanna orientalis, Campanula choziatowskyi, In-Season Flowers: Terrain up to 3200 m alt. DAY 5: KAPAN - VOROTAN GORGE - GORIS Michauxia laevigata, Scabiosa micrantha, Flora of Kapan and Vorotan River Gorge: Astragalus, finitimus, Acantheolimon armenum Mt. Aragats, Amberd fortress and canyon, 2100- Iris lineolata, I. Paradoxa, I. Caucasica, Allium 2200 m alt. stamineum, Bellevalia paradoxa, B. longystila, Geghard Monastery, 1650 m alt. Merendera trigyna, M. raddeana, colchiam Muscari atropatana, M. sosnovskyi, Tulipa Achillea filipendulina, Serratula serratuloides, bifolium, Purdminia scilloides, Scilla armenia, S. Sosnovskyi, Punica granatum, Vinca Vitis Rindera lanata, Arenaria graminea, Lotus gebelia, siberica, Tulipa julia, Iris caucasia, Muscari sylvestris, Ficus carica (wild). Pseudosophora alopecuroides, Stachys caucasicum, Bellevalia pycnantha, Ornithogalum ² FLORA SUMMER lavandulifolia schelkovnikovii, O. brachystachys, O. hyastanum, DAY 6: GORIS - SISSIAN - YEREVAN 7 Day Flora Itinerary in Ararat Valley, Sevan, Lori Fritillaria caucasia, Nectarosordum tripedale, Osp Flora of Sissian and Goris Region: and Shirak DAY 2: YEREVAN-Mt. ARAGATS-AMBERD-KARI of gagea, Myosotis alpestre, Amenone caucasia, Iris lineolata, I. Caucasica, Merendera LICH-YEREVAN Orchis coriophora, Gladiolus tenuis. mirzoeval, Colchicum Szoritsii, Gagea ssp., This sample Itinerary shows the type of flowers In-Season Flowers: Terrain up to 3200 m alt. Puschkinia scilloides, Draba ssp., Lallemautia that should be in bloom in early July (season: mid- caneseeus, Ranunculus ssp., Myosotis alpestris, late June-mid July). While no one can guarantee Mt. Aragats, Amberd fortress and canyon, 2100- Pedicularis ssp., Trifolium ssp., Gladiolus that all flowers listed will be in bloom at this exact 2200 m alt. kotschyanus, Silene ssp. time period (mother nature follows her own Nectaroscordum tripedale, Inula maria,e rhythms), the majority of these listed are the most Papaver orientale, Astragalus hyalolepis, Medicago Flora of Noravank Canyon: likely to be found. This itinerary also requires you dzhavakhetica, Trifolium bordzilovskyi, Clematis orientalis, C. vitalba, Reichardia know botany or have an expert guide--it requires Ornithogalum najastanicum, Dianthus cretaceus, dichotoma, Vitis sylvestris, Pistacia mutica, Noaea driving into remote areas of the central and Solenanthus stamineus minuta, Mixauxsia laevigata, Leus orientalis, Northern regions of the country and a great deal of Serratula serratuloides, Yurinea arachnoidea, Y. slogging through terrain. Without expert guidance, Mt. Aragats, near Kari Lich, alpine meadow 3200 pulchella, Silene megeri. your chances to see many of these flowers is m alt. severely limited Doronicum oblongifolium, Taraxacum stevenii, DAY 7: YEREVAN - SEVAN PASS - YEREVAN Primula algida, Campanula tridentata, Gentiana Flora of Sevan Pass: Guides: Nora Gabrillian, Professor at the Botanical pontica, Oxytropis albana, Androsace raddeana, Iris furcata, Anemone fasciculata, A. Institute and internationally recognized scholar, is Pedicularis crassirostris, Erodium armenum, raminculoides, Primula ruprechtii, P. macrocalyx, the most renowned botanical specialist in Armenia, Daphne kurdica, Delphinium freynii, Hedysarum Trollius patulus, Caltha polypetala, Veratium and is can guide or find guides for serious caucasicum lobelianum, Palsatilla armena, Corydalis persica, botanical groups. Her personal guidance is must be DAY 3: YEREVAN - MEGHRI Fritillaria caucasica, Betonica grandiflora, Prunus arranged well in advance. If unavailable, she will DAY 3: YEREVAN-HADIS-TZAKHADZOR Flora at Meghri Mountainous Region: spinosa, Sedum pilosum, Sempervivum point you to equally qualified persons. Her e-mail In-Season Flowers: Terrain up to 2200 m alt. Tulipa florensvyi, T. confusa: f. pink, f. red, f. transcaucasicum, Malus orientalis, Pyrus is [email protected]. She normally is out of the yellow, Iris grossheimii, I. Paradoxa, I. Caucasica, caucasicus. country from December - March of each year. Mt. Hadis mountain steppe, 1800 m alt. I. Pseudocaucasica, I. Atropatana, Mesendera Acanthus dioscoridis, Podospermum candissima, Colchicum zangezurum, Hyacintella Flora of Sevan Shore: armeniacum, Onosma gehardica, Crambe

Natural Armenia: page 22 of 48 - © 2005 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition orientalis, Dinathus subulosus, Vicia cracca, DAY 6: STEPANAVAN - ASHOTSK - Phlomis tuberosa, Cerastium purpurasceus, SHAHNAZAR - STEPANAVAN Papaver orientale, Papaver paucifoliatum (even In-season Flowers: Terrain up to 1800 m alt. larger than P. orientale), Linaria grandiflora, Dianthus cretaceus, Aster alpinum, Centaurea Lakes near Stepanavan cheuizanthifolia (c. fischeri), Doronicum Water lily macrophyllum, Anemone fasciculata, Filipendula hexapetala Subalpine meadow, lakes, 1300-1800 m. alt. Gladiolus caucasicus, Gladiolus dzhavakheticus, DAY 4: TZAKHADZOR-L'CHASHEN-GEGHAM Cephalaria gigantea, Nymphaea alba, Aconitum RANGE-TZAKHADZOR nasutum, Delphinium freynii, Nymphoides peltata, In Season Flowers: Terrain up to 2200 m alt. Utricularia intermedia (pale yellow), U. vulgaris (bright yellow) Subalpine meadow, 2100-2200 m alt. Iris furcata, Lilium armenum, Allium aucheri, DAY 7: STEPANAVAN - SPITAK - SPITAK PASS Anthyllis boissieri, Lathyrus cyaneus, Vicia - APNAGIUGH - YEREVAN truncatula, Linum densiflorum, Senecio integrifolinus, Centaurea cheiranthifolia, Gladiolus In season Flowers: Mountain steppe terrain kotschyanus, Gladiolus hajastanicus Centaurea polypodiifolia, C.glehnii, C.carduiformis, Asphodeline taurica, Convolvulus calvertii, Convolvulus lineatus, Hedisarum formusum, Linaria grandiflora, Scabiosa caucasica, Galium verum, Tomanthea aucheri

FAUNA ARMENIA 999

BIRDING ARMENIA rmenia has an extraordinary 349 species of birds. By comparison, the whole of Europe has 550 species and the entire landmass of the former Soviet Union has 750. Of the 29 orders and 187 families of birds worldwide, Armenia is home to 18 orders and 58 families.

The country lies on the main migration route between the Northern and Southern Hemispheres, DAY 5: TZAKHADZOR - SEVAN PASS - with species flying from as far away as South PUSHKIN PASS - STEPANAVAN Africa. With its diverse terrain and vegetation zones overlapping each other in such a compact In season Flowers: Terrain to 2100 m alt. area, Armenia attracts diverse bird species that do Gladiolus tenuis, G. kotschyanus, Zingeria not normally inhabit the same terrain. trichopoda, Papaver paucifoliatum, Papaver orientale, Caltha polypetala Thus it is possible to observe desert and forest birds, waterfowl, high plains and alpine species Subalpine meadow, con. Forest, hornbeam forest, living in the same area (sometimes in the same 1300-2100 m alt. square mile). Gentiana gelida, Geranium sanguineum, Gymnadenia conopsea (orchid), Dictamnus albus, Lilium szovitsianum, Psephellus somcheticus, Campanula alliarii folia (white), Delphinium freynii (endemic to transcaucasus)

Birds in Armenia - by species LOONS: Gaviidae Eurasian Sparrowhawk Common Quail Ruddy Turnstone Long-eared Owl Red-throated Loon Northern Goshawk Ruff Short-eared Owl Arctic Loon Common Buzzard CRANES: Gruidae STILTS & AVOCETS: Recurvirostridae Long-legged Buzzard Common Crane Black-winged Stilt NIGHTJARS: Caprimulgidae GREBES: Podicipedidae Rough-legged Buzzard Demoiselle Crane Pied Avocet Eurasian Nightjar Lesser Spotted Eagle Little Grebe Greater Spotted Eagle RAILS, CRAKES, et al: Rallidae PHALAROPES: Phalaropodidae SWIFTS: Apodidae Horned Grebe Steppe Eagle Little Crake Red-necked Phalarope Alpine Swift Red-necked Grebe Imperial Eagle Baillon's Crake Common Swift Great Crested Grebe Golden Eagle Water Rail STONE-CURLEWS: Burhinidae Black-necked Grebe Booted Eagle Spotted Crake Stone-Curlew KINGFISHERS: Aleedinidae Common Moorhen Common Kingfisher CORMORANTS: Phalacrocoracidae FALCONS: Falconidae Purple Swamphen PRATINCOLES: Glareolidae Great Cormorant Lesser Kestrel Common Coot Collared Pratincole BEE-EATERS: Meropidae Pygmy Cormorant Common Kestrel Corn Crake Black-winged Pratincole European Bee-eater Red-footed Falcon Blue-cheeked Bee-eater PELICANS: Pelecanidae Merlin BUSTARDS: Otididae JAEGERS: Stereorariidae Great White Pelican Eurasian Hobby Little Bustard Pomarine Jaeger ROLLERS: Coraciidae Dalmatian Pelican Lanner Falcon Great Bustard Long-tailed Jaeger European Roller Saker Falcon Houbara Bustard Parasitic Jaeger HERONS & BITTERNS: Ardeidae Peregrine Falcon HOOPOES: Upupidae Grey Heron OYSTERCATCHERS: Haematopodidae GULLS & TERNS: Laridae Eurasian Hoopoe Purple Heron SWANS, GEESE, DUCKS: Anatidae Eurasian Oystercatcher Little Gull Great White Egret Mute Swan Lesser Black-backed Gull WOODPECKERS: Picidae Cattle Egret Whooper Swan LAPWINGS, PLOVERS: Charadriidae Mediterranean Gull Eurasian Wryneck Little Egret Tundra Swan White-tailed Lapwing Great Black-headed Gull Eurasian Green Woodpecker Squacco Heron Greater White-fronted Goose Northern Lapwing Common Black-headed Gull Black Woodpecker Black-crowned Night-Heron Lesser White-fronted Goose Spur-winged Lapwing Mew Gull Lesser Spotted Woodpecker Little Bittern Greylag Goose Grey Plover Slender-billed Gull Middle Spotted Woodpeckers Great Bittern Red-breasted Goose Sociable Lapwing Yellow-legged Gull Great Spotted Woodpecker Ruddy Shelduck Eurasian Golden-Plover Armenian Gull White-backed Woodpecker STORKS: Ciconiidae Common Shelduck Common Ringed Plover Whiskered Tern Syrian Woodpecker Black Stork Eurasian Wigeon Little Ringed Plover White-winged Tern White Stork Gadwall Kentish Plover Black Tern LARKS: Alaudidae Common Teal Greater Sand Plover Caspian Tern Bimaculated Lark IBISES, et al: Threskiornithidae Mallard Caspian Plover Gull-billed Tern Calandra Lark Glossy Ibis Northern Pintail Eurasian Dotterel Common Tern Lesser Short-toed Lark Eurasian Spoonbill Garganey SANDPIPERS, et al: Scolopacidae Little Tern Greater Short-toed Lark Northern Shoveler Black-tailed Godwit Crested Lark FLAMINGOS: Phoenicopteridae Marbled Teal Bar-tailed Godwit SANDGROUSE: Pteroclididae Horned Lark Greater Flamingo Red-crested Pochard Eurasian Curlew Pin-tailed Sandgrouse Wood Lark Common Pochard Whimbrel Black-bellied Sandgrouse Eurasian Skylark OSPREYS: Pandionidae Ferruginous Pochard Common Sandpiper Osprey Tufted Duck Terek Sandpiper PIGEONS & DOVES: Columbidae SWALLOWS & MARTINS: Hirundinidae Greater Scaup Wood Sandpiper Rock Dove Sand Martin BUZZARDS, et al: Accipitridae White-winged Scoter Marsh Sandpiper Stock Dove Eurasian Crag-Martin European Honey-Buzzard Common Goldeneye Green Sandpiper Common Wood-Pigeon Barn Swallow Red Kite Smew Caspian Tern European Turtle-Dove Northern House-Martin Black Kite Red-breasted Merganser Common Redshank Eurasian Collared-Dove Red-rumped Swallow White-tailed Eagle Common Merganser Common Greenshank Laughing Dove Lammergeier White-headed Duck Spotted Redshank WIGTAILS & PIPITS: Motacillidae Egyptian Vulture Jack Snipe CUCKOOS: Cueulidae Yellow Wagtail Eurasian Griffon GROUSE: Tetraonidae Great Snipe Great Spotted Cuckoo Citrine Wagtail Eurasian Black Vulture Caucasian Grouse Common Snipe Common Cuckoo White Wagtail Short-toed Snake-Eagle Eurasian Woodcock Grey Wagtail Northern Harrier PHEASANTS, QUAIL, et al: Phasianidae Sanderling OWLS: Strigidae Tawny Pipit Pallid Harrier Caspian Snowcock Little Stint Eurasian Scops-Owl Tree Pipit Montagu's Harrier Chukar Dunlin Eurasian Eagle-Owl Meadow Pipit Western Marsh-Harrier Black Francolin Curlew Sandpiper Boreal Owl Red-throated Pipit Shikra Pheasant Broad-billed Sandpiper Little Owl Water Pipit Levant Sparrowhawk Grey Partridge Temminck's Stint Tawny Owl

SHRIKES: Laniidae Great Reed-Warbler Trumpeter Finch OWLS: Strigidae Greater White-fronted Goose Red-backed Shrike Eurasian Reed-Warbler Mongolian Finch Little Owl Greylag Goose Woodchat Shrike Paddyfield Warbler Eurasian Siskin SWIFTS: Apodidae Mute Swan Lesser Grey Shrike Olivaceous Warbler Eurasian Linnet Common Swift Whooper Swan Northern Shrike Upcher's Warbler Chaffinch SWALLOWS & MARTINS: Hirundinidae Tundra Swan Isabelline Shrike Icterine Warbler Brambling Northern House-Martin Eurasian Wigeon Willow Warbler European Greenfinch WAXWINGS: Bombycillidae Gadwall WAXWINGS: Bombycillidae Eurasian Chiffchaff European Goldfinch Bohemian Waxwing Common Teal Bohemian Waxwing Greenish Warbler Eurasian Bullfinch WIGTAILS & PIPITS: Motacillidae Mallard Wood Warbler Common Crossbill White Wagtail Northern Pintail DIPPERS: Cinclid Garden Warbler White-Winged Snowfinch THRUSHES, CHATS, et al: Turdidae Garganey White-throated Dipper Mountain Chiffchaff Hawfinch Black Redstart Northern Shoveler Blackcap SPARROWS: Ploceidae Marbled Teal WRENS: Troglodytidae Greater Whitethroat SPARROWS: Ploceidae House Sparrow Red-crested Pochard Winter Wren Lesser Whitethroat Eurasian Tree Sparrow CROWS, et al: Corvidae Common Pochard Barred Warbler House Sparrow Black-billed Magpie Ferruginous Pochard ACCENTORS: Prunellidae Orphean Warbler Spanish Sparrow Carrion Crow Tufted Duck Alpine Accentor Menetries's Warbler Pale Rock-Finch Rook Greater Scaup Radde's Accentor Rock Sparrow White-winged Scoter Dunnock FLYCATCHERS: Museicapidae White-winged Snowfinch LAKES, RESERVOIRS, FISH PONDS, Common Goldeneye Spotted Flycatcher WETLANDS Smew THRUSHES, CHATS, et al: Turdidae European Pied Flycatcher STARLINGS: Sturnidae Red-breasted Merganser Rufous-tailed Scrub-Robin Collared Flycatcher Rose-coloured Starling LOONS: Gaviidae Common Merganser European Robin Semi-collared Flycatcher Common Starling Red-throated Loon Ruddy Shelduck Thrush Nightingale Red-breasted Flycatcher Arctic Loon Common Shelduck Common Nightingale ORIOLES: Oriolidae GREBES: Podicipedidae White-headed Duck Bluethroat TITS: Aegithalidae Eurasian Golden-Oriole Little Grebe RAILS, CRAKES, et al: Rallidae White-throated Robin Long-tailed Tit Horned Grebe Little Crake Black Redstart CROWS, et al.: Corvidae Red-necked Grebe Baillon's Crake Common Redstart PENDULINE TITS: Remizidae Black-billed Magpie Great Crested Grebe Water Rail White-winged Redstart Eurasian Penduline Tit Carrion Crow Black-necked Grebe Spotted Crake Whinchat Eurasian Jay CORMORANTS: Phalacrocoracidae Common Moorhen Common Stonechat TITS: Paridae Red-billed Chough Great Cormorant Purple Swamphen Northern Wheatear Great Tit Yellow-billed Chough Pygmy Cormorant Common Coot Isabelline Wheatear Coal Tit Eurasian Jackdaw PELICANS: Pelecanidae STILTS & AVOCETS: Recurvirostridae Rufous-tailed Wheatear Blue Tit Rook Great White Pelican Black-winged Stilt Finsch's Wheatear Crested Tit Common Raven Dalmatian Pelican Pied Avocet Black-eared Wheatear Sombre Tit HERONS & BITTERNS: Ardeidae OYSTERCATCHERS: Haemaodidae Pied Wheatear NUTHATCHES: Sittidae Great White Egret Eurasian Oystercatcher Desert Wheatear Eurasian Nuthatch Grey Heron LAPWINGS, PLOVERS: Charadriidae Rufous-tailed Rock-Thrush Western Rock-Nuthatch Birds in Armenia - by habitat Purple Heron White-tailed Lapwing Blue Rock-Thrush Eastern Rock-Nuthatch Cattle Egret Northern Lapwing Ring Ouzel Wallcreeper WIDESPREAD Little Egret Spur-winged Lapwing Eurasian Blackbird TREE-CREEPERS: Certhiidae Squacco Heron Grey Plover Dark-throated Thrush Eurasian Tree-Creeper HOOPOES: Upupidae Black-crowned Night-Heron Sociable Lapwing Fieldfare Eurasian Hoopoe Little Bittern Eurasian Golden-Plover Redwing BUNTINGS: Emberizidae NIGHTJARS: Caprimulgidae Great Bittern Common Ringed Plover Song Thrush Yellowhammer Eurasian Nightjar STORKS: Ciconiidae Little Ringed Plover Mistle Thrush Corn Bunting SPARROWS: Ploceidae White Stork Kentish Plover Rock Bunting Eurasian Tree Sparrow CRANES: Gruidae Greater Sand Plover PARROTBILLS: Panuridae Grey-necked Bunting House Sparrow Demoiselle Crane PHALAROPES: Phalaropodidae Bearded Reedling Ortolan Bunting STARLINGS: Sturnidae IBISES, et al: Threskiornithidae Red-necked Phalarope Black-headed Bunting Common Starling Glossy Ibis SANDPIPERS, et al: Scolopacidae WARBLERS: Sylviidae Pine Bunting CROWS, etc.: Corvidae Eurasian Spoonbill Ruddy Turnstone Firecrest Reed Bunting Black-billed Magpie FLAMINGOS: Phoenicopteridae Ruff Common Goldcrest Snow Bunting Carrion Crow Greater Flamingo (rare) Black-tailed Godwit Cetti's Warber OSPREYS: Pandionidae Bar-tailed Godwit Grasshopper Warbler URBAN, SUBURBAN AREAS Osprey Eurasian Curlew Eurasian River Warbler FINCHES: Fringillidae BUZZARDS, et al: Accipitridae Whimbrel Savi's Warbler Common Rosefinch PIGEONS & DOVES: Columbidae Western Marsh-Harrier Common Sandpiper Moustached Warbler Crimson-winged Finch Rock Dove SWANS, GEESE, DUCKS: Anatidae Terek Sandpiper Sedge Warbler Red-fronted Serin Eurasian Collared-Dove Lesser White-fronted Goose Wood Sandpiper Marsh Warbler Twite Laughing Dove Red-breasted Goose Marsh Sandpiper

Green Sandpiper Snow Bunting SANDGROUSE: Pteroclididae Caspian Tern Pin-tailed Sandgrouse BUZZARDS, et al: Accipitridae MOUNTAIN SLOPES Common Redshank MOUNTAIN STEPPE WETLANDS, LAKES, Black-bellied Sandgrouse Long-legged Buzzard Common Greenshank FISH PONDS BUSTARDS: Otididae Rough-legged Buzzard FALCONS: Falconidae Jack Snipe Little Bustard Red Kite Red-footed Falcon Great Snipe CRANES: Gruidae Great Bustard Greater Spotted Eagle Merlin Common Snipe Common Crane Houbara Bustard Short-toed Snake-Eagle Eurasian Hobby Sanderling STORKS: Ciconiidae PRATINCOLES: Glareolidae Steppe Eagle THRUSHES, CHATS, et al.: Turdidae Little Stint Black Stork Collared Pratincole Northern Harrier Rufous-tailed Rock-Thrush Dunlin RAILS, CRAKES, et al: Rallidae Black-winged Pratincole Pallid Harrier Blue Rock-Thrush Curlew Sandpiper Corn Crake STONE-CURLEWS: Burhinidae Montagu's Harrier TITS: Paridae Broad-billed Sandpiper BUZZARDS, et al: Accipitridae Stone-Curlew Shikra Sombre Tit Temminck's Stint Common Buzzard LAPWINGS, PLOVERS: Charadriidae Lanner Falcon BUNTINGS: Emberizidae JAEGERS: Stereorariidae White-tailed Eagle Eurasian Dotterel Peregrine Falcon Rock Bunting Pomarine Jaeger Valleys, Lowlands Caspian Plover WIGTAILS & PIPITS: Motacillidae Grey-necked Bunting Long-tailed Jaeger BUZZARDS, etc.: Accipitridae BEE-EATERS: Meropidae Yellow Wagtail FINCHES: Fringillidae Parasitic Jaeger Egyptian Vulture European Bee-eater THRUSHES, CHATS, et al: Turdidae Crimson-winged Finch GULLS & TERNS: Laridae CUCKOOS: Cueulidae Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Common Stonechat Red-fronted Serin Little Gull Great Spotted Cuckoo ROLLERS: Coraciidae BUNTINGS: Emberizidae Trumpeter Finch Lesser Black-backed Gull OWLS: Strigidae European Roller Corn Bunting Mongolian Finch Mediterranean Gull Short-eared Owl LARKS: Alaudidae Ortolan Bunting Eurasian Linnet Great Black-headed Gull WOODPECKERS: Picidae Bimaculated Lark Black-headed Bunting White-Winged Snowfinch Common Black-headed Gull Syrian Woodpecker Calandra Lark Pine Bunting SPARROWS: Ploceidae Mew Gull PENDULINE TITS: Remizidae Lesser Short-toed Lark Snow Bunting Eurasian Tree Sparrow Slender-billed Gull Eurasian Penduline Tit Greater Short-toed Lark FINCHES: Fringillidae Spanish Sparrow Yellow-legged Gull BUNTINGS: Emberizidae Crested Lark Common Rosefinch Pale Rock-Finch Armenian Gull Yellowhammer Horned Lark Crimson-winged Finch Rock Sparrow Whiskered Tern SPARROWS: Ploceidae WIGTAILS & PIPITS: Motacillidae Red-fronted Serin White-winged Snowfinch White-winged Tern Eurasian Tree Sparrow Tawny Pipit Twite STARLINGS: Sturnidae Black Tern Spanish Sparrow SHRIKES: Laniidae Trumpeter Finch Rose-coloured Starling Caspian Tern Red-backed Shrike Mongolian Finch Gull-billed Tern SCRUB Woodchat Shrike Eurasian Linnet UPPER MOUNTAINS WITH CLIFFS, Common Tern Lesser Grey Shrike CROWS, et al: Corvidae GORGES Little Tern WAXWINGS: Bombycillidae Northern Shrike Red-billed Chough SWALLOWS & MARTINS: Hirundinidae Bohemian Waxwing THRUSHES, CHATS, et al: Turdidae Yellow-billed Chough BUZZARDS, et al.: Accipitridae Sand Martin SHRIKES: Laniidae Rufous-tailed Scrub-Robin Golden Eagle Red-rumped Swallow Red-backed Shrike Bluethroat ROCKY CLIFFS, RIVER GORGES Imperial Eagle KINGFISHERS: Aleedinidae ACCENTORS: Prunellidae White-throated Robin Booted Eagle Common Kingfisher Dunnock Northern Wheatear PIGEONS & DOVES: Columbidae Lammergeier WIGTAILS & PIPITS: Motacillidae THRUSHES, CHATS, et al: Turdidae Isabelline Wheatear Rock Dove Eurasian Black Vulture Citrine Wagtail Rufous-tailed Scrub-Robin Rufous-tailed Wheatear OWLS: Strigidae Eurasian Griffon White Wagtail Common Stonechat Finsch's Wheatear Eurasian Eagle-Owl SWALLOWS & MARTINS: Hirundinidae Grey Wagtail WARBLERS: Sylviidae Black-eared Wheatear SWIFTS: Apodidae Eurasian Crag-Martin Tawny Pipit Lesser Whitethroat Pied Wheatear Common Swift CROWS, et al.: Corvidae Red-throated Pipit BUNTINGS: Emberizidae Desert Wheatear Alpine Swift Black-billed Magpie Water Pipit Black-headed Bunting Ring Ouzel SWALLOWS & MARTINS: Hirundinidae Carrion Crow WARBLERS: Sylviidae Snow Bunting WARBLERS: Sylviidae Eurasian Crag-Martin Red-billed Chough Cetti's Warber FINCHES: Fringillidae Olivaceous Warbler Northern House-Martin Yellow-billed Chough Grasshopper Warbler Eurasian Linnet Upcher's Warbler Red-rumped Swallow Common Raven Cetti's Warber SPARROWS: Ploceidae Orphean Warbler ACCENTORS: Prunellidae Grasshopper Warbler Eurasian Tree Sparrow Menetries's Warbler Dunnock WOODLANDS, THICKETS, FARMLAND, Eurasian River Warbler SHRIKES: Laniidae BUNTINGS: Emberizidae THRUSHES, CHATS, et al: Turdidae ORCHARDS Savi's Warbler Isabelline Shrike Yellowhammer Black Redstart Moustached Warbler Corn Bunting White-winged Redstart BUZZARDS, et al: Accipitridae Sedge Warbler SEMI-DESERT TO MOUNTAIN STEPPE Ortolan Bunting NUTHATCHES: Sittidae Levant Sparrowhawk Marsh Warbler Black-headed Bunting Western Rock-Nuthatch Eurasian Sparrowhawk Great Reed-Warbler FALCONS: Falconidae CROWS, et al: Corvidae Eastern Rock-Nuthatch Northern Goshawk Eurasian Reed-Warbler Lesser Kestrel Black-billed Magpie Wallcreeper PHEASANTS, QUAIL, et al: Phasianidae Paddyfield Warbler Common Kestrel Eurasian Jackdaw FINCHES: Fringillidae Black Francolin PARROTBILLS: Panuridae Saker Falcon Rook Eurasian Linnet Pheasant Bearded Reedling Common Raven CROWS, et al: Corvidae SANDPIPERS, et al: Scolopacidae BUNTINGS: Emberizidae PHEASANTS, QUAIL, et al: Phasianidae Red-billed Chough Eurasian Woodcock Reed Bunting Chukar MOUNTAIN STEPPE Yellow-billed Chough PIGEONS & DOVES: Columbidae

Common Wood-Pigeon Corn Bunting Middle Spotted Woodpeckers Eurasian Nuthatch Tree Pipit European Turtle-Dove Pine Bunting Great Spotted Woodpecker TREE-CREEPERS: Certhiidae Meadow Pipit CUCKOOS: Cueulidae FINCHES: Fringillidae White-backed Woodpecker Eurasian Tree-Creeper Water Pipit Common Cuckoo Red-fronted Serin WIGTAILS & PIPITS: Motacillidae FINCHES: Fringillidae THRUSHES, CHATS, etc.: Turdidae OWLS: Strigidae Twite Tree Pipit Eurasian Siskin Whinchat Eurasian Scops-Owl Eurasian Siskin ORIOLES: Oriolidae Chaffinch ACCENTORS: Prunellidae Tawny Owl Chaffinch Eurasian Golden-Oriole Brambling Radde's Accentor SWALLOWS & MARTINS: Hirundinidae Brambling ACCENTORS: Prunellidae European Greenfinch THRUSHES, CHATS, et al.: Turdidae Barn Swallow European Greenfinch Dunnock Eurasian Bullfinch Ring Ouzel LARKS: Alaudidae European Goldfinch THRUSHES, CHATS, et al: Turdidae Common Crossbill WARBLERS: Sylviidae Wood Lark Eurasian Bullfinch European Robin Hawfinch Mountain Chiffchaff WIGTAILS & PIPITS: Motacillidae Hawfinch Thrush Nightingale CROWS, et al: Corvidae BUNTINGS: Emberizidae Red-throated Pipit SPARROWS: Ploceidae Common Nightingale Eurasian Jay Corn Bunting WARBLERS: Sylviidae Eurasian Tree Sparrow Common Redstart Ortolan Bunting Firecrest STARLINGS: Sturnidae Eurasian Blackbird MOUNTAIN FOREST AREAS Black-headed Bunting Common Goldcrest Rose-coloured Starling WARBLERS: Sylviidae FINCHES: Fringillidae Icterine Warbler Common Starling Wood Warbler BUZZARDS, et al: Accipitridae Crimson-winged Finch Willow Warbler CROWS, et al: Corvidae Garden Warbler European Honey-Buzzard White-Winged Snowfinch Eurasian Chiffchaff Black-billed Magpie Blackcap Black Kite Greenish Warbler Eurasian Jay Barred Warbler Lesser Spotted Eagle ALPINE Greater Whitethroat Rook FLYCATCHERS: Museicapidae OWLS: Strigidae WRENS: Troglodytidae Spotted Flycatcher Boreal Owl PHEASANTS, QUAIL, et al: Phasianidae Winter Wren FORESTS, OPEN FORESTS European Pied Flycatcher Caspian Snowcock THRUSHES, CHATS, et al: Turdidae Collared Flycatcher SUBALPINE, MOUNTAIN MEADOWS ACCENTORS: Prunellidae Dark-throated Thrush PIGEONS & DOVES: Columbidae Semi-collared Flycatcher Alpine Accentor Fieldfare Stock Dove Red-breasted Flycatcher GROUSE: Tetraonidae CROWS, et al: Corvidae Redwing OWLS: Strigidae TITS: Aegithalidae Caucasian Grouse Red-billed Chough Song Thrush Long-eared Owl Long-tailed Tit PHEASANTS, QUAIL, et al: Phasianidae Yellow-billed Chough Mistle Thrush WOODPECKERS: Picidae TITS: Paridae Grey Partridge Eurasian Blackbird Eurasian Wryneck Great Tit Common Quail TITS: Paridae Eurasian Green Woodpecker Coal Tit LARKS: Alaudidae Crested Tit Black Woodpecker Blue Tit Eurasian Skylark BUNTINGS: Emberizidae Lesser Spotted Woodpecker NUTHATCHES: Sittidae WIGTAILS & PIPITS: Motacillidae

Habitats: River gorge, mountain steppe Terrain up Species: to 1650 m alt. DAY 4 : STEPANAVAN-ARDENIS-ARPILICH- Ciconia ciconia (White Stork) GIUMRI Phalacrocorax pygmeus (Pygmy Cormorant) Species: Habitats: Upper mountain meadow, marsh and Himantopus himantopus (Black-Winged Stilt) Melanocorypha bimaculata (Bimaculated Lark) lakeland, scrub, alpine Recurvirostra avosetta (Pied Avocet) Merops apiaster (European Bee-eater) Ardea pupurea (Purple Heron) Apus melba (Alpine Swift) Species: Sitta tephronota (Eastern Rock-Nuthatch) Sitta neumayer (Western Rock-Nuthatch) Circus pygargus (Montagu's Harrier) Panurus biarmicus (Bearded Reedling) Emberiza melanocephala (Black-Headed Bunting) Buteo rufinus (Long-Legged Buzzard) Rhodopechys githaginea (Trumpeter Finch) Coracius garrulus* (European Roller) Larus armenicus (Armenian Gull) Emberiza buchanani (Grey Necked Bunting) Dendrocopus major* (Great Spotted Woodpecker) Larus ridibundus (Common Black-Headed Gull) Merops persicus (Blue-Cheeked Bee-Eater) Sturnus roseus* (rose-colored Starling) Tadorna tadorna (Common Shelduck) Sylvia mystacea (Menetries's Warbler) Motacilla citreola* (Citrine Wagtail) Hippolais languida (Upcher's Warbler) Pelecanus crispus* (Dalmatian Pelican) Alectoris chukar (Chukar) Grus grus* (Common Crane) Bubulcus ibis** (Cattle Egret) Luscinia svecica* (Bluethroat) Egretta Garzetta** (Little Egret) Bubulcus ibis** (Cattle Egret) Pelecanus onocrotalus** (Great White Pelican) Egretta Garzetta** (Little Egret) Platalea leucorodia** (Eurasian Spoonbill) ² BIRDING SPRING TOUR Pelecanus onocrotalus** (Great White Pelican) Plegadis falcinellus** (Glossy Ibis) 7/8 Day Itinerary in Ararat Valley, Sevan, Lori, Shirak, DAY 7/8: YEGHEGNADZOR-MARTUNI - SEVAN - HRAZDAN GORGE - YEREVAN The following Itinerary is one that was presented Subalpine, Lake shore, reed marshlands, forest, in 1999 and is a sample to help guide you in mountain meadows, cliff valleys. preparing your own. Migrations begin in March and April and continue in the autumn. Contact us with Species: species you are interested in seeing. Colony of Larus Armenicus (Armenian Seagull) Podiceps cristatus (Great Crested Grebe) Guides The Birds In Armenia Project is the Fulica atra (Common Coot) greatest advocate for conservation and the most DAY 2 : YEREVAN-ARAGATS-YEREVAN Vanellus vanellus (Northern Lapwing) knowledgeable sources about the impact of Habitats: semi-desert, mountain steppes, Charadrius alexandrinus* (Kentish Plover) environment on Birds. They are the authors of the subalpine and alpine up to 3200 m alt. Garrulus glandarius* (Eurasian Jay) field guide, "The Birds of Armenia", the only printed source on this topic. They are also the only Species: Sturnus roseus (Rose-colored Starling) group working to exclusively conserve bird OTHER FAUNA 111 Circaetus gallicus* (Short-Toe Snake-Eagle) habitats. They offer tours and guided visits, for a Armenia holds a large diversity of fauna, including fee. You can reach them in Yerevan by calling Dr. Neophron percnopterus* (Egyptian Vulture) the Wild Armenian Goat, Deer, Wild Ram, Leopard, Martin Adamian or his assistants Levan and Luba Lanius senator (Woodchat Shrike) DAY 5 : GIUMRI-YERKATGIDZI KAYARAN- Caucasian Bear (all endangered), lynx, wildcat, at (+37410) 28-15-02). Upupa epops (Eurasian Hoopoe) ANI-ARAGATS-YEREVAN Reed Wildcat, Wild Bore, Porcupine, Squirrel, Eremophila alpestris (Horned Lark) Habitats: Mountain scrub, semi-desert, desert, Jackal, Mole, Prairie Dog, Marten, Royal Stag and The birds listed in this itinerary are the species Prunella ocularis (Radde's Accentor) marshland, lowland scrub Nutria. Other species normal to vegetation zones most common to the itinerary's habitats. Those elsewhere will be found in Armenia. Unique fish listed are only about 25% of the species the group DAY 3 : YEREVAN-APARAN-STEPANAVAN- Species: found in Armenia are the Ishkhan (red-spotted are probable to find on this expedition. This list TASHIR-STEPANAVAN Oenanthe hispanica (Black-Eared Wheatear) trout) and Sig. Most popular habitats for specific focuses on endemic and other species most Habitats: High meadow, mountain steppes, Oenanthe isabellina (Isabelline Wheatear) fauna are listed under each Region. probable to find in the latter half of May. canyon, forest and alpine meadows. Carpospiza brachydactyla (Pale Rock-Finch) KEY: Burhinus oedicnemus* (Stone Curlew) POPULAR FAUNA BY REGION: No asterisk ("*") means common to locale. Species: Sturnus roseus* (Rose-Colored Starling) * = possible Lanius Collurio (Red-Backed Shrike) NORTH **=uncommon or rare sightings, unable to predict Carpodacus erytrinus (Common Rosefinch) DAY 6: MASIS-VEDI-ARMASH- ahead of trip Pernis apivorus (European Honey Buzzard) YEGHEGNADZOR-VAIK Shirak The largest prairie dog population in Ciconia nigra* (Black Stork) Habitats: Lowland scrub, marshland, lakelands, Armenia is in Shirak, located west of Maralik. DAY 1: YEREVAN - GARNI GORGE-GEGHARD - Anthropoides virgo * (Demoiselle Crane) semi-desert Nutria, moles, jackals and wildcats are frequently YEREVAN Dendrocopus major* (Great Spotted Woodpecker) seen in the region as well.

Six species of bast in Armenia are a godsend to (birding, flower atching, tracking endangered most of the mountains in Armenia and is a Lori / Tavush Notable fauna include sylvan farmers and orchards, but they need a little species). recommend, reliable guide. wildcat, reed wildcat, lynx, fox, royal stag, deer, understanding caucasian squirrel, porcupine, bear, wild bore, Note: those listed below are considered reputable Avarayr Adventure Tours, (tel. 010 56 36 81, 52 marten. Bats Armenia is also home to millions of people, and they strive to be as eco-friendly as 40 42, Fax: 010 56 36 81), 1 Pavstos Biusand p, Vespertilio otherwise known as bats. The only possible, but you will not find any eco-tour Yerevan, E-mail: [email protected], URL: CENTRAL mammals capable of true flight, bats are an provider or guide to be able to comply to www.avarayr.am/ has been arranging cultural and important part of the ecological system. standards set by western eco associations. This is adventure tours to Armenia for more than 12 Aragatsotn / Kotaik On Aragats, mountain Misunderstood and thought to be dangerous, the not for trying, it is for lack of funding. In a country years, one of the first to provide fully equipped leopard (very rare), caucasian wildcat, caucasian bats have lost much of their breeding grounds are still struggling to fed its people, ecology often hiking, climbing and adventure tours. Tours ram and mountain goat (very rare), mole, lynx, now endangered. Myth: bats feed off of human takes the back door. include expert guides, cooks and support staff for porcupine, squirrel and marten. In Kotaik, deer, blood and carry rabies. Truth: the bats found in all tours. Tours run the gamut from hiking and wildcat, mountain leopard (very rare), squirrel, Armenia feed off of insects (up to 3 times their If you take an eco tour with one of these , you are climbing in the wilderness to cultural visits for the wild bore, lynx, nutria, white panther (extremely weight per day) and pollinate nearby orchards and supporting continued work to help Armenia's more comfort-minded. Their best seem to be rare), fox and bear. vineyards. They do not carry rabies and do not bite ecology, if only by supporting the individuals so tours that combine both aspects. A good, solid humans. that they can afford to stay in Armenia and work company. Gegharkunik – Sevan Wild Armenian Goat, Wild to rectify the situation. Ram, mountain leopard (endangered species), wild Bats in Armenia live in tree hollows, caves and Armenian Mountain Rescue Teams "Spitak" (tel: bore, fox, wildcat, Ishkhan and Sig. crevices in cliffs, and hibernate 7-8 months during Ayrudzy Riding Club, (tel. 032 34 628 cell. 091 42 010 35 00 06), 50 Halabian p, Yerevan, email: the year, being most active in the summer time. 45 70), 3 Mushegh Bagratuni Street, Ashtarak, [email protected], ARARAT VALLEY They live in large groups, colonies in Armenia can email: [email protected], URL: moon.yerphi.am/~spitak/adventure.htm, stationed be up to 2 million. Bats give birth 1 time a year, www.ayrudzy.am, offers riding lessons and trial in both Yerevan and Stepanavan, can organize Armavir - Yerevan – Ararat Endangered species normally one or two at a time, and live up to 20 rides in and around Ashtarak. Riding lessons from hiking, rock climbing and mountain expeditions. include the wild bore, leopard, royal stag, wild ram years. Their sophisticated sense of radar (sending $10 an hour to trial rides from $15 per person. Guides are experienced rescuers-rock climbers, and mountain goat (Khosrov Nature Preserve). 0.2/100 milimicron pulses at 130 kilohertz and they can also arrange horse riding along Others include the lynx, deer, wild bore, wildcat, amplitude ultra-voice) allows them to unerringly Haik Melkonian, tel. 091-71-73-82, email: picturesque routes, by a horse cave and "Ancient reed wildcat, prairie dog, mole and nutria. swerve out of the path of anything larger than a [email protected], organizes Armenian horse games." June bug. One of nature's spectacles is at dusk, as hiking/climbing/camping trips in Armenia with his SOUTH the nesting bats fly out of the cave in a fluttering team of professionals. The group specializes in Mt. Armenian Green Cross Ecological NGO ("AGCE"), cloud that twists and turns in the evening air. Aragats and the Geghama Lehr, especially Mt. 14-10 Batumi, Vanadzor (tel. 0 322 24066, fax. Vayots Dzor Primary species include caucasian Ajdahak, with its unique eco-system, Crater Lake 58449, mob. 093 32 32 84) is a local NGO that goat, ram, mountain leopard (endangered There are six species of bats in Armenia: and petroglyph-covered stones. They also service provides eco-tours as part of its mission to species), wild bore, caucasian bear, jackal, lynx, Rhinolophus euryale, Rhinolophus mehelyi, Myotis nature trips throughout the republic. Melkonyan is preserve and enlarge ecologically vital areas of the mole, porcupine, fox, wildcat, squirrel, marten. nattereri kuhl, Barbastella leucomelas, Miniopterus also a professional photographer, whose photos country. Eco-tours are expert-led hiking, climbing schreibersi kuhl and Tadaria teniotis rat. Bats are grace the pages of Erivan magazine. and camping tours, including hiking and climbing Siunik Kapan City and its immediate surroundings categorized in Latin as Vespertilio , in the order equipment, tents, sleeping-bags, emergency and lie on the Iranian Plateau, a semi-arid land Chiroptera, with suborders Desmodus, Diphylla Ashot Levonian (tel. 010 57 03 28, mob. 091 49 first aid facilities and the services of their inhabited by field deer, jackals and marten. and Diaemus. Fruit bats are known as 58 34), e-mail: [email protected] is an expert professional rescue group (EU certification). Immediately to the West of Kapan City, between Megachiroptera. hiking/climbing/camping guide; his team arranges Goris and Meghri the landscape suddenly changes, hiking, mountain climbing, caving, geology tours, The Eco-Tour Center (tel. 010 27 87 28 / 27 40 marking the border of the Caucasian Land mass, churches and fortresses. They will arrange hotels 12), 2 H Hakobian St. apt. 22, 375033 Yerevan, ECOTOURING 11 with wild mountain goats, lynx, porcupines and in Yerevan, airport pickup, transport, sight-seeing, Armenia, email: [email protected], Eco-Tours are all managed by local specialists, sylvan wild cats. There are still a few wild boars in etc. Group support includes guide, translator, www.ecotourismarmenia.com, arranges nature members of the scientific community and avid the deepest parts of the forest, and even the rare cook, rescue doctor and driver. Standard tour is a tours, climbs and camping, as well as birding, promoters of Armenia's natural world. These are Caucasian leopard in the most remote mountain two-week hiking trip averaging 5-10 km walking a flower watching and other nature tours. Contact special tours, not anything like the structured areas. This territory is pocked with small sections day: Yerevan - Mt. Aragats - Alaverdi - Ijevan - Zhanna. travel normally associated with group eco-tours, of the Asia Minor Plateau, with a few jackals, reed Dilijan - Sevan - Martuni - Yeghegnadzor - Kapan - and they provide few of the amenities expected in wildcats, hawks and eagles crossing between Meghri - Jermuk - Yerevan. Hike & Go, (tel. France (+33 6) 88 34 04 11, local other locales. These are fairly rustic, adventurous nature zones. Sissian is home to part of the cell: 091 20 41 38), email: [email protected] expeditions that explore the more remote areas of surviving Caucasian bearded goat and wild ram. One of the most experience mountain climbers in an adventure travel group operating out of the country. Armenia is Andrei Chesnokov, (tel. 010 57 67 57), Armenia and France (English spoken) is an

ARMENIAN BATS 10 Vardanants p, Apt. #49, Yerevan, Armenia interesting group that features tours of Armenia They can be taken for adventure only (paragliding, 375010, email: [email protected], who has climbed combining traditional touring with hiking into climbing, hiking, water sports, camping, horse- Armenia’s wilderness and off-the–beaten-path back riding), or to assist in species observations

Natural Armenia: page 29 of 48 - © 2005 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition monuments, some of which can only be reached Paragliding Paragliding is an excellent way to by hiking. See web site (www.hikeandgo.com/) take in the wonders of the Aremnia. The slopes have good opportunities, and paragliders glide AdvenTour Travel (tel. 010 53 96 09, cell: 091 42 from summit to basin, summit to summit, over 67 45), Email: [email protected], URL: lake Sevan and photograph archeological sites. www.armeniaexplorer.com, 39 Pushkin p, Yerevan, Armenia, 375002, arranges adventure, birding, botanical and historic tours. If you don’t bring your own gear, it is expensive. A wing, harness and helmet can cost $ 2,500. In Oxalis Tours, (tel. UK (+44 20) 78 70 80 37, USA addition, a month of training costs 4,000 drams (9 (+1 201) 984 1420; Fax: (+44 20) 76 81 31 31) dollars), but students pay half that. And one flight 68 Landseer Road, London N19 4JP UK, URL: day costs 2,500 AMD including all expenses such www.oxalis-adventures.com/armenia/index.php as food and transport. The Armenian Aviation Club, provides trekking, climbing and botanical tours to which provides paragliding opportunities, can Armenia, specializing in combining off-the-beaten arrange gear rental and flight days. paths with primary sites. They hire expert guides from in and out of the country and provide full tour For details talk to Armenian Aviation Club, 24 services. Worth looking into, well organized. Khorenatsi p, Yerevan, email: aac@unesco- clubs.am Flower Tours Professor Nora Gabriellian is Armenia’s preeminent You can also contact Dan Retz with questions expert on flowers in Armenia, personally about Armenian flights at [email protected], or discovering several new species of endemic visit www.xcaucasus.org/armenian.html. flowers, the latest in 2006. She is the author of the upcoming Field Guide to Armenian Flowers, the culmination of 50+ years work in the field. This seventy-something still out-hikes the fittest members of her tours and combines expert data with humor, enthusiasm and great good will. She is not easy to book (she continues to do her research and is not for the casual tourist), but if you can arrange for her to take you on a 1 to 8 day flower tour, you will never see Armenia the same way again. She doesn’t have a travel agency but contact her through Rafi at (tel: 010 53-24-55) who can check her schedule and make arrangements.

Archeological Tours 11 MassTour (tel./fax. 010 27 78 32), 8 Komitas, Yerevan, e-mail: [email protected], URL: www.masstours.com, specialize in archeological tours and participation in archeological digs supervised by working archeologists include the Urartian fortress Erebuni (Arin Berd) forerunner of present day Yerevan, the Bronze Age temple-city of Agarak, Bronze -Iron Age tomb field of Aghavnatun, Paleolithic caves in the Kasakh River Canyon near the village of Apnagiugh, guided visits to the petroglyphs in the Geghama mountain range. They also run basic tour packages with expert guides. Excavation packages begin from $750/week for full service land-expeditions.

The giurza is rare but extremely poisonous. The A Fragile Summer’s Day EXPLORING NATURAL ARMENIA 11 Garni Canyon is close enough to inhabited areas Most of these trips can be done in a single day by there is scant chance of coming across one, but The road into the Azat River canyon has spectacular car, depending on how many sites you visit and you can detect it by its sand colored to dark gray views of the Garni gorge, with cold water for soaking, how long you spend at each stop. Sites in UPPER coloring and hexagonal shaped markings. If you pleasant hikes under the towering canopy of trees, CASE are considered major sites definitely worth do happen to spot any snake, simply stop. The picnic areas and summer camps. It is also a narrow stopping at while those marked in parenthesis ( ) snakes avoid contact with humans at all costs. road, carved from the canyon slag and graded are called side trips, meaning they are worth a The giurza warns before it strikes by coiling and annually. The dirt road is one-way for most of the visit if you have the time but may be too far off raising its head. Even at a few inches distance, if 200 m drop, with passing zones wide enough for two the main route or too many to include all of them vehicles half way down. you stop moving, the snake is likely to retreat. If in a single trip. you are bitten by a snake, tourniquet the limb We were navigating our way up on the west side of about 20 cm from the bite and seek help 4 camping possible Garni, watching at a distance a line of cars following immediately. Keep your eyes open and look an old bus coming down. The passing zone was just + overnight around you and you should be OK. ahead, a relief since I did not want us to have to Æ food and drink navigate the steep incline to the canyon floor in O thermal, mineral spring reverse. I lazily looked down at the river floor as it grew smaller, the children playing in a river pool at a

hangestian goti (l ‘rest area’, though it translates as a First, the R (W) turn to the gorge and reservoir: camp ground for paying weekend picnickers), their ² THE OTHER SIDE OF GARNI 111 splashing and shrieks of delight receding as we rose, GARNI GORGE - KHOSROV PRESERVE - when out of the corner of my eye I saw a puff of dust HAVUTS TAR – BAIBERD – METS GILANLAR - ² GARNI GORGE (¶²èÜÆÆ Òàð) 111 on the road ahead and while the shrieks of delight AGHJOTS VANK below were drowned out by screams of terror ahead. The Other Side of Garni. Garni Gorge is one of Armenia’s natural wonders and a favorite of locals I thought, “that sounds like a carnival ride, but where Though these trips are marked as major stops, is it?” for lazy summer days. The waters gushing from they take a half day or more to visit and are not the basalt and granite cliff walls are ice cold and for the casual tourist. But if you have the time and I think it was Rafi who first said, “My God! They went crystal clear and feed a unique ecosystem (as well don’t mind hiking uphill they are well worth the over the edge!” but I cannot be sure. Both lines of effort, exploring parts of Armenia few tourists ever as quenching much of Yerevan’s thirst). cars stopped, we scrambled out to follow the line of see. They include Garni Gorge, the wilderness dust which by now was a thin cloud arcing down the area that runs along the Azat and Goghti Rivers Note: The nature preserve is home to wild steep Cliffside to the campground below. Staring up and makes for a fine drive through, picnic or animals, but they are as reluctant to meet you as at us was the bottom side of a Volga. A crowd of hiking, the western part of the Khosrov Preserve you are them. All wild creatures have keen sense onlookers, children crying, parents rushing to grab Symphony Canyon. The Goghti and Azat Rivers with its abandoned settlements and the rarely of smell and hearing, and it is highly unlikely you their kids, others running around crying for help, meet at Garni, more than 300 feet below the visited Havuts Tar convent and Aghjots Vank. will run across any. Between May 1 and early June everything slowed down to a crawl, nothing in real temple site, creating an impenetrable natural and between September 1 and 20 snakes are most time. People below started to open the car, a large fortress above, and a remarkably diverse eco active and may be spotted sunning on warm rocks. van pulled up, ready to take the wounded (or the system below. While dry summer winds whip the bodies, we never found out) away. All except one are harmless. mountain plain above the canyon rim, below the Â To get to the other side of Garni, continue E river forest is always moist and cool: towering A car passed us on the way down, a white Volga. about 500 m past Mashtots Hairapet Church on the trees form a canopy above the foot paths along The driver smiled, oblivious to what had happened. I same road until it descends into the gorge. The the river, and wild boar, deer, leopards and bears realized, that white Volga, that smiling man, he was road is badly maintained but passable for most call the nature preserve home. the one that forced the car off the road, two cars vehicles and gets steeper as the walls of the passing each other on a single car path, one going to Goghti River Canyon begin to rise. The nature Symphony canyon was named for its rock the left and skydiving to the river, the other hugging preserve begins at the canyon proper, and formations, a series of perfectly cut diamond the cliff side and getting by, oblivious to what he had officially cars are not allowed beyond. shaped granite, basalt, slag and andesite. Inside done.

the canyon are the remains of a 16th c bridge, its At the bottom of the descent the road ends in a T- finely engineered arches at one time leading to a No one talked. It took 30 minutes to reach the top. intersection; R (W) leads to the forest, picnic areas narrow road that surmounted the Geghama Beyond the obvious (don’t try to pass on a one-lane and a Hangestian Goti (3.5-4 km) and eventually road) the fragility of life overwhelmed me. A car of mountain range, ending at Lake Sevan. to the Azat Reservoir (about 6 km), while L (E) people out for a Sunday picnic were now wounded or leads in about 1.5 km past the Fish restaurant to dead, another carload continued to their rendezvous, A few hundred meters west, past a series of the bridge over the river and then heads back on unknowing of what they had done. How the grace of caverns yawning in the side of the canyon walls, the other side for another 800 m to the Khosrov God could bless thisday I did not know. the Goghti River joins with the Azat, and to the Preserve Gate and the hiking trial to Havuts Tar.

Natural Armenia: page 31 of 48 - © 2005 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition right is one of the most beautiful sights in open land. In May the river swells and covers The Young Man and the Sea Armenia: About 600 meters away and 300 feet some of the natural path, but the terrain is easily above is the temple of Garni. In the morning it navigated. Just after a narrowing in the canyon, It was a long summer day. The clear blue waters of the lake lap softly against the rocks, stippled by is yellow gold. In the evening it drips red with the the land widens into a dense forest, and it seems jumping Tzknor, Sazan, Koghak, Carp and the rare Karmera Khait thrusting into the afternoon light. setting sun. Inside the canyon, the upper rim and to be the most remote place on earth, with only On the far side of the lake there was a large mound encrusted with mineral salts and traces of a sky are soon blocked from view: tangled vines the sounds of birds and a startled fox keeping natural spring while further up the scrub hill sat a caravan tent and a flock of sheep. And perched wrap themselves around century’s old trees that company. A little beyond are the signs of above the middle of the lake was a small house on piers. After a few echoing calls across the lake, shade the hot sun from the fetid ground. In spring civilization in the ruins of stone buildings covered one of the men on the far side waved and slowly made his way to the lake's edge. Soon a motorboat swarms of blue, yellow, gold and violet butterflies with moss. nest along the sun-dappled river bed, as many as appeared with two men inside. a thousand might be resting on the banks or the Once a thriving village, the forest settlement The men were Robert and Armen. Armen's taut body, sinewy arms and grizzled face made him look side of a tree. was forcibly removed to the canyon rim by revolutionists, and for a while residents hid in much older than his 25 years. Deep set eyes and a sun weathered face shone as he smiled and caves and rock outcroppings on Mt. Yeranos welcomed us on board for a tour of the lake, ‘his home’. A few minutes later the boat landed on the (1823.7 m), which plunges to the river edge on other side, and we settled into a carved stone pool of water fed by mineral springs. The water was the other side., its slopes covered with rose-red, cold and rich, a natural salve for weary legs that just hiked 6 kilometers from Garni. Armen smiled and cream and violet slabs of marlaceous limestone. then called to a circling hawk, perfectly imitating a mating call. The hawk swerved in its flight and What are left of the settlement are a few white- began to descend, swerving away just as it spotted the human source of the cry, furiously flapping its washed walls standing alone in the thick wings and shrieking in anger. underbrush and a chimney that juts defiantly into the trees. When we visited there was also a single The peace and natural beauty of this area is hard to imagine when it is so close to Yerevan. Calling family dwelling butted up against the edge of the the city ‘a place for machines’, Armen seemed to thrive on the solitude of the lake. ‘People are canyon wall, inhabited by descendants of those people,’ he shrugged as he looked off to a jumping fish about to be entangled in one of the nets he set who hid on the opposite side of the river. A in the lake. “On the lake, everything is understood. I know my place.” Robert nodded in assent. mother and her daughter greeted our party as we Neither spoke except when asked, then only after a deep silence, carefully considering the question. wandered through the settlement ruins, mama Armen used to swim in the lake when he was a boy, and as soon as he completed his time in calling out at us, “If you see Ashot, tell him to Karabakh, he and Robert decided they didn’t want to go back to the city, they remembered the pristine come back for supper,” as if we were neighbors world on the shores of the lake and decided to make it a home. Tending sheep on the far side of the from just across the street. Do the good thing and look out for Ashot as you plod on. lake, they also fish for a living, living in the tent or in the house set in the center of the lake.

The canyon is also a habitat for birds and other Neither man had much to say about their time in Karabakh, it was “our duty and it was necessary,” as fauna. Among them is the loti, which we spotted The river widens long before it reaches the lake Armen put it, and they would do it again if they had to. But a weariness in their faces showed as they on our hike. Looking every bit like a lime green which suddenly appears in one bend on the path, snake, loti actually has gills for breathing and the rumbling sound of the river crashing over rocks spoke about their time as soldiers, a weariness of age too soon. I told him about the story “The Old projections where a million years ago or so it had disappearing, replaced by a few cicada and the Man and the Sea”, and he quickly dubbed himself a “Young Man of the Sea,” saying he had always legs. Harmless, the loti is endangered and listed faint cry of a seagull off in the distance. Backing loved the lake, diving and swimming in it when as a boy, that he and Robert got through the long on the Red Book, an official listing of endangered up more than a kilometer from the tip of the lake, winters in Karabakh by reminiscing about the lazy afternoons swimming and fishing by the lake, species in the former Soviet Union. As we in the spring the water floods the forest floor and promising each other they would set up a fishing business at their boyhood lake. He proudly gestured walked, a cloud of pale blue butterflies suddenly entire tree trunks torn from their base form a log at their private kingdom as he said, “we got our dream.” flutters into view, flying in a circle in a pool of jam and natural bridge from one side of the river sunlight. Above it is close to 37°c, but here in the to the other. After a few ledges you will reach the Neither man shunned companionship, they seemed to thrive on it and they welcomed visitors, forest it rarely gets above 24°c. lake. “ repeatedly asking us to return with more guests--they had fish ready to fry, could build a campfire on the lake shore, and there is plenty of room on the pier for people to sleep. The offer was good for About 3 km from Garni is an electric station and The lake, Azat Reservoir (²½³ïÇ æñ³Ùμ³ñ) is a anyone who found their way to their little sea kingdom, “just call across the waters when you reach the picnic area. The electric station is gratefully welcome respite after a day’s hike, but beware its reservoir’s edge. We’ll hear you.” True hosts, they almost grew angry when we offered to help them partially hidden from view with thick trees and waters—fed by the ice cold springs bursting from out with the fuel for their motorboat. greenery, and several huge wild rose bushes. An the Azat River Canyon, even on the hottest day a old wisteria vine clings to the sides of the deserted dip in the lake will suck the breath out of most But as we boarded the boat to return to the nature preserve and the temple of Garni, the sun set on station, and the pastel purple blossoms hand like swimmers (the locals preferring to call it ‘bracing’. the crystalline waters that formed diamonds of light on the canyons walls and underneath the pier, the grapes, sweetly scenting the air. I think ‘nut-nesting’ is more accurate). Shallower sound of a gull hung in the air, and I thought that if this life was not perfect, it was the most nearly waters are warmer, but the deep are to be taken From here the canyon grows wilder and more perfect these men could have made at that time; in the solitude of nature, in an island on piers in the seriously. Fishermen on the lake will take you to center of a beautiful lake, by a campfire on a mountainside with each his own thoughts and the star beautiful, with occasional meadows and fields of the other side, where a cold water mineral spring studded night for companionship, free from the restraints of the other side, the side we call civilization. sweet hay and goldenrod covering the patches of feeds a stone pool on a mound encrusted with

Natural Armenia: page 32 of 48 - © 2005 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition mineral salts. Mud from the lake is considered cut by Mongols, Safavid Persians and modern Male bearded goats are marked by large, scimitar- medicinal, locals alternating from the mineral bath Armenians on illegal logging expeditions. shaped horns, their front edges in a sharp keel ECOLOGICAL ALERT to the river to mud baths. with a series of bold, sharp-edged, widely The preserve is still important and quite large, separated knobs above. Females are smaller than The preserve is under ecological attack by Camping is possible in the river gorge or nearby, consisting of 29,196 hectares, 9000 of which have males and have short, slender horns, but no international and local huntsmen and an ambivalent and along the lake shore (ask if people are trees, mostly scrub and cedar. The national park beard. The goat favors rugged country at all to cynical government that instead of protecting nearby), and at the Hangestian Goti; Overnight in protects more than 1800 species of plants, 156 of levels, descending into the lower valleys in the endangered species or those at risk instead actively Garni (rustic, 3000-5000 AMD for B&B is fair); which are considered rare, endangered or on the winter and upper regions in the summertime. The hunts or sponsors hunts into the officially protected Springs along river bed and across the lake. verge of extinction, listed in the Red Book. Fauna bearded goat is listed in the Red Book and in the area. Reports of military officers organizing include rare insects, amphibians, snakes, the IUCN list of Endangered Species. helicopter hunting trips into the preserve, where protected species are hunted down with automatic Armenian mouflon (Ovis orientalis gmelinii), weapons are common. While gatekeepers stop eco- Caucasian Bearded Goat (Capra aegagrus) and the The Caucasian or Persian leopard is said to be the tourists from entering the area, generals, ministers Caucasian or Persian Spotted Leopard. largest of all subspecies of leopards. It can grow to and wealthy international hunters use the park as up to 1.5 to 2.7 feet tall and weigh as much as 155 their private hunting grounds, further endangering lbs. Before 1990, when Armenia, Azerbaijan, the species that attempt to survive in the park. Georgia, Russia, and Turkmenistan were the Soviet republics, the scientific names of the leopard used I don’t mind hunting per se, images of Bambi aside in these countries were P.p. tulliana and P.p. and despite my own repugnance of the sport. ciscaucasica, whereas the name P.p. saxicolor had Responsible hunting does have its purposes and it been traditionally used by the western specialists brings important income to local communities as well for the cats in Iran and, partially, Afghanistan. as helps to preserve the environment by seeking to preserve it. However, Armenia is blighted with Most Leopards are light tan or fawn with black hunting firms that organize the hunting of spots, but their coats are very variable. The spots endangered species in Armenia, including the tend to be smaller on the head, larger and have Armenian muflon and the Bearded Goat (Ibex) pale centers on the body. The name Leopard is a these three easily found online: combination of leo (Latin for lion) and pard ² KHOSROV FOREST PRESERVE - ÊàêðàìÆ Outfitters hunting endangered species: (“panther”), the animal believed to be a hybrid of ²Üî²è äºî²Î²Ü ²ð¶ºÈàò 111 lions and panthers. Interestingly, the panther is simply a darker version of the spotted leopard, Safari International Directly across from Garni temple are the Khosrov [email protected] they are very much related. The leopards are Mountains and the western entry to the Khosrov remarkable felines, able to hunt in trees as well as Forest Preserve. The preserve is one of Blue Water Big Game on the ground, feeding on everything from insects Armenia’s largest protected areas and its most 106 Medalist and rodents to fish and large game. Excellent tree unique, hosting dozens of rare or endangered Austin, TX 78734 climbers, leopards often protect their larger kills by species of insects, birds and mammals, including ph: 1-512-261-1990 carrying them up a tree. the Caucasian Bearded Goat and the extremely fax: 1-203-774-2002 rare Persian Leopard. In Armenia, the Persian leopards live in the juniper Powers Internationale The preserve covers land once inhabited by sparse forests and, to a lesser extent, in arid and [email protected] Armenians, Kurds and Turkish settlers and mountain grasslands, subalpine and alpine numerous village ruins dot the 30,000 hectare meadows. Their haunts are extremely rough Please contact these companies and tell them how preserve. Among the more important, and within terrain; rock outcroppings and cliff sides. The you feel about their targeting endangered species in a day’s hike from Garni are the Chalcedonian leopard uses the same trails during regular Armenia, and contact Green Peace monasteries Havuts Tar and Aghjots Vank, and movements, enabling researchers to find and (www.greenpeace.org) and World Wildlife the ruined villages Baiburt and Mets Gilanlar. study the reclusive animals. Unfortunately this Federation (www.worldwildlife.org) to lend your also enables poachers to hunt the animals (see support to stop animal extinction in Armenia. side column). The leopard in Armenia is Khosrov Preserve Khosrov Forest Preserve was established in the 3rd threatened by disturbance, poaching and wild fire, The Caucasian Bearded Goat (also called the Other fauna in the preserve include Eurasian lynx c CE by the Arshakuni King Khosrov the Great, but perhaps mostly by the wholesale slaughter of Bezoar or Persian Ibex, or the wild goat by (Lynx lynx), Wild cat (Felis silvestris, ornata grandfather to T’rdat III. Khosrov is reputed to their main food, the mouflon and bearded goat, scientists who believe it is the ancestor of the group), Jungle cat (Felis chaus), Brown bear have had planted over one million trees, creating a both almost poached out of existence in their main domestic goat) is an endangered species that has (Ursus arctos), Red fox (Vulpes vulpes), Gray wolf private hunting preserve while saving a piece of hunting grounds. For more information visit the almost been hunted to extinction in Armenia. (Canis lupus), Stone marten (Martes foina), Roe Armenia’s unique ecosystem for generations. Persian Leopard web site at deer (Capreolus capreolus), Wild boar (Sus scrofa) Most of the forests from his time are gone, clear- www.persianleopard.com/index.htm

Indian porcupine (Hystrix indica), European hare Permission to enter the preserve is required, Background (Lepus europaeus), Jay (Garrulus glandarius) officially from the ministry of Nature Protection in Havuts Tar is one of Armenia’s most beautiful Yerevan (35 Moskovian, good luck) or from the ruins, its stones dripping with delicate lacework as Among the 67 types of birds registered in the director, Samvel Shaboyan (still difficult: tel: +234 elaborate as any monastery in Armenia. Armenian Red Book are sixteen in the preserve, 21-352). As many people who are blocked seem including Egyptian, Black and Griffon Vultures, to gain entry by using alternate routes or ‘tipping’ A Pagan temple lay on the site during the glory Lammergeier, Golden and Lesser Spotted Eagles gate keepers. Sadly, it seems the ones who days of Roman rule, replaced with successive and Northern Goshawk. should be stopped are allowed in to poach while shrines and wooden structures during the early those interested in promoting its preservation are Christian period. Its importance as a convent is kept away. Other entries into the park are in traced to the 11th c, when Prince Grigor Pahlavuni Ararat marz, and over the Geghama lehr from (990-1058), heir to the prince of Bjini and nephew Lake Sevan. of the Bagratuni sparapet Vahram Pahlavuni, founded the church of Amenaprkich on the western Camping is possible in the river gorge or nearby; outcrop of the complex. Overnight in Garni (rustic, 3000-5000 AMD for B&B is fair); Springs along river beds. Grigor is better known in Armenian history as Grigor Magistros, a title he took once after Â To Havuts Tar. From Garni, take the Garni Byzantium annexed the Kingdom of Ani and Grigor Gorge road into the canyon, and at the T- went on to serve as the Governor-general of the intersection at the river, take a L (E) and continue province of Edessa. The Byzantine Emperor on the pitted road about 1 km (and past the Constantine IX Monomachus bestowed upon him excellent fish restaurant) to the Yerevan Water the title of Duke. An erudite layman, Grigor’s works and the bridge across the river. Take the letters are a mine of information on theology, bridge, turn R (E) and continue uphill to the literature, mythology, politics and other matters of entrance to the Khosrov Preserve. You are not his time. allowed into the park without a permit, but park Flora in the preserve is as rich and varied as its outside the gate and you can take a path to the They are written in an arcane style by a man with stunning terrain, with over 1800 plant species left of the gate that quickly climbs above the gate philhellene tendencies. His chief poetical work is a (more than half of Armenia’s total), 156 of which and slowly trudges uphill about 2 km or 30-45 long metrical narrative of the principal events are considered rare, endangered or verging on minutes to Havuts Tar Vank 4 O recorded in the Bible. This work, we are told, was extinction. A number of species listed in the Red written in three days at the request of a Book grow only here. Khosrov Preserve is the only Mohammedan noble, who, after reading it, became ² HAVUTS TAR - Ð²ìàÆò Â²è 111 Caucasian natural preserve of mountain The path to the convent is narrow and surprisingly converted to Christianity. xerophytes; terrain combining semi-deserts, difficult for such a slight incline. There are few phryganoid formations, arid thin forests and shady spots on the way, in hot weather take a hat The convent thrived under Grigor Magistros tragacanthys steppes. and water. A spring is about 2/3rds of the way up. patronage, becoming a leading center of learning

The path has stunning vistas of Garni temple, the and the arts. Along with housing members of the village and the area. As you get closer to the royalty who dedicated their lives (or were banished convent, you will pass some khachkar fragments, for infidelities) to prayer and contemplation at the intricately carved pieces of once grand convent, Havuts tar held important relics, including monuments. About 2/3rds of the way there look the 9th c masterpiece The Savior of All of Havuts for a couple of khachkars on a hill on the left, Tar, now at the Echmiadzin Treasury. plus the base of what was once a great khachkar. Closer to the convent is a bend in the path and a The “Kusanats anapat” (convent) continued to find

stunning 12th c khachkar. favor with succeeding nakharars, including the Chalcedonian Ivaneh Zakarian who funded its The Savior of All of Havuts Tar, 9th century.

Just past this khachkar the ruins of the village great spurt of growth in the early 13th c, introducing the intricate lace-like design covering The convent was destroyed and rebuilt during begin, a myriad of stone foundations of homes, Seljuk, Mongol and the Timurid invasions, shops and shrines for the once thriving community the walls of the convent, then by the Khaghbakians (Proshians), well known for their succumbing to the 1679 earthquake which did the that supported the convent’s work and farmed its greatest damage. It was finally rebuilt in the 18th lands. The ruins cover the hillsides all around the work at Geghard, but equally responsible for the crowning work at Havuts Tar and the nearby c for the Katolikos Astvatsatur, saving the western complex. About 500 m past the 12th c khachkar is Amenaprkich Church and the main basilica in the the gate to the walled Havuts Tar complex. Aghjots vank. compound. This lasted barely to the 20th century,

Natural Armenia: page 34 of 48 - © 2005 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition when the struggling convent was deserted and left The Red Khachkar above and the left of the main equal to that of the columns to the very center of The exterior is elaborate, a precursor to the rich to ruin by the Soviet Armenian government. gate is probably from the 12th c, though its highly the room, then mark it to the outside and you can ornamentation that lies inside. Recessed walls, stylized design may place it in the imagine just how large this gavit was, which arched niches and faux columns are on the The Complex Zakarian/Proshian periods. I am not sure who it housed a religious academy, a scriptorium, vestal western façade, while deeply incised religious The complex is large, taking up several hectares celebrates, but it seems likely to be a memorial embroidery, as well as community center and symbols adorn the gray stones, including a royal inside the walled compound, with the remains of stone to a benefactor or—more likely—the overflow prayer hall. brand of the Bagratuni or Zakarian dynasty. the surrounding village and two churches from the tombstone of a venerated member of the 7th-10 cc on a western hilltop, the site of the community, the khachkar making a sort of original pagan temple and the convent’s first ‘talisman’ for the reconstructed convent. On the Christian structures. opposite side of the gate there are three khachkars in the upper walls, again either for benefactors or venerated saints from the original convent.

In front of the gate and to the left are the foundations of one of the two churches in the walled compound, a basilica from the 9th c with major renovations during the 12th-13th centuries. The layout is close in form to pre-Christian temples and may well have been built over a pagan footprint, expanded over time. The walls are made from gray basalt clapped over rubble stone set with lime. The décor is more severe than its neighbor to the north, attesting to its earlier ‘iconoclastic’ origins. To your right is a large building with three vaulted halls. The 9th-13th cc building was Just to the E and N of the basilica (moving around rebuilt in the 18th c and used to house members the compound in a counterclockwise direction), of the convent. The farthest west is believed to there are a number of fallen stones, heavily have been the kitchen/dining hall for the dwindling decorated with elaborate carvings. These are the community. Khachkar fragments were remains of a public building, perhaps the incorporated into the walls during reconstruction. chancellery. Some think this was a gavit, though it is rare to have one placed to the east of a The second church, a 9th-13th cc cruciform type church. Fallen stones in this section are very with a square exterior was built like its southern elaborate, including some massive capitals for neighbor, with gray basalt clasped onto strong large squat support columns. The northern wall of rubble walls fixed with lime. The church once had

the 9th c church have a number of carvings, a drum and dome set above its central space, The scattered capitals, columns and stones on the including some beautiful intertwining crosses and supported by protruding wall abutments ground outside the church, as elaborate and examples of the 12th c experimentation with the supporting the main arches. You can detect the beautiful as they are, they are but a taste of the tree of life symbol, a precursor to the 13th c slight curve of the arch base inside. The four magnificence that awaits you inside. The 13th c masterpieces that added the sun symbol. corners were open to the main space, marked off The current gate to the site is embedded into the renovation of the church included replacing gray by the abutments. When erected, it must have compound walls. The foundations of the original basalt stone with decorative red and black tufa, Continue west through the rubble of the had a keen sense of space. Other churches of the wall remains are traced to the 9th c when the adding extravagantly carved stone casements and chancellery and you reach the ruins of the time closed off the corners into chambers and convent was established, though there is some frames throughout the building. magnificent 13th c gavit, which resembles a focused on a tight space before the apse. This thought walls from the Bronze Age may also have public square with columns. The gavit was quite church appears basilica in form, with a large existed at the site. Originally made from finely The effect is breath-taking, and unlike any other large with a substantial gabled roof, supported by volume of space for worshippers. Its foot print is hewn basalt and tufa, the walls were mostly church we have seen in Armenia. Many churches interconnecting cross-arches and barrel vaulting. almost identical to the earliest cruciform churches destroyed during the Timurid invasions and the of the 13th century added florid details on their The girth of the columns indicates the size and in Armenia (Echmiadzin), which were universally 1679 earthquake. When it was rebuilt in the 18th walls, but none so completely, or luxuriantly as weight of the roof, as well as marking out the built over pagan fire temples. The heart of the c, workers used rubble left over from the Havuts tar. The comparison to lace embroidery is inner space for the gavit. Columns were placed in walled complex, this church is almost certainly earthquake, including khachkar fragments and not an exaggeration, niches, columns and frames the center of a gavit, supporting arches that pagan in form, “baptized” with stone and Christian pieces of decorated stones from the original are covered with intricate lace patterns of never- intersected above at the very center and then iconography to the new religion. buildings. ending lines, unbreakable cords and flora and continued to the outer walls. Imagine a distance geometric details.

The rear chambers were probably chapels as well. arched western façade. Built over a pagan site, Walk to the south exterior of the church, and you The structure was well-built, surviving a number of the building carefully follows the imprint of the have to wedge between two very large, intricate invasions and attempts to destroy it, succumbing original structure, a single aisle basilica with a carved stones, weighing a half a ton or more. only to the forces of nature, when the 1679 gabled roof. The deity worshipped here in Pagan Note the back of the one with a large carved earthquake toppled the dome and severed the times is not known, but considering it has a handle. This was a door for the gavit or church, western and eastern walls, which no doubt must companion pagan site inside the walled compound, one of a handful surviving to this day and truly have seemed a judgment of God’s wrath to the it is possible this was part of a large site with impressive entry to what must have been an faithful, like the rending of the temple cloth in several temples in honor of Hellenized Armenian extraordinary building. Jerusalem. Even so, the building has survived well gods and goddesses (Artamazd, Anahit, Nuneh, the last 300 years, retaining most of its original etc.). We may never know. structure.

² BAIBERD - ´²Ú´ºð¸ 111

The village is deserted with mostly foundation ruins to commemorate its once thriving community of Armenians, Kurds, and Azeris who inhabited the village at successive times. The last community of Armenians were deported in the 17th c to Persia by the Safavid Shah Abbas I as part of a scorched Earth retreat in the face of Ottoman advances during the Turko-Persian wars of 1602-1620. Also The southern wall is as elaborately carved as the surviving are the remains of a single nave hall northern, with crosses, icons and royal markings There are numerous gravestones and khachkars all church with a protruding apse, built over a Pagan on the façade. There is relatively little of the extravagant around the convent, and exploration may uncover temple in the 4th-5th centuries. The church was decoration found inside the walled compound, signs of medieval plumbing, well worth exploring built from finely hewn stone with chamfered joints The south of both churches, abutting the fortress window casings and some framing shows signs of on a pleasant day. (beveled) on its edges. The semi-circular apse has walls is a large underground chamber, seen 13th c carving, but otherwise the church a pentagonal exterior and there are equal crosses from its western side. The top appears to be a maintained its original integrity and the beauty of Camping is possible at the site or nearby; carved over the doorway and at the keystone for grassy mound and it had an upper chamber that its rich lines. This was a building meant to Overnight in Garni (rustic, 3000-5000 AMD for the apsidal arch, which itself rests on a unique set was destroyed before the 18th c renovation. The impress, and it continues to, despite its ruined B&B is fair); Spring about 2/3rd of the way to the of columns, their palmettes pattern echoing those chamber was used for storage in the original status. The view of the Garni valley is wonderful site from the preserve gate. on the pilasters in the outer gallery found at other convent, then as a dormitory and dining area in from here. Bring your binoculars or zoom lens. churches (Tekhor). A second church was added to later times. ² BAIBERD, METS GILANLAR, AGHJOTS the southern wall in the early Middle Ages. The impressive altar apron is decorated with a VANK: 111 Permission to enter the Preserve is About 100 m to the west, on a rough path marking series of khachkars with prominent tree of life required to explore Baiburt, Mets Gilanlar and The village houses a few of the Preserve workers the main street of the medieval village is the 10th iconography, popular in the 10th c. The apron is Aghjots Vank. Contact Samvel Shaboyan (tel: and their families, who may be willing to point you c Amenaprkich with a 7th c basilica next door. framed with another popular design motif, the pre- +234 21-352) to some of the area’s more interesting sites, Amenaprkich was built in 1013 for the young Christian water line, representing the Biblical flood including graveyards and the remains from the Grigor Pahlavuni a.k.a. Grigor Magistros, well and redemption by baptism for early Christians but Â To Baiberd: Start from the gate into the pre-Christian era. before he became his nom de plume and during recognized by lingering pagans as the symbol of preserve and follow the dirt road (jeep or the last heyday of the Bagratuni period. life, the primordial ‘soup’ that spawned all of Vilis/UAZ) upstream along the Azat River about 4.5 Camping is possible in the river gorge or village creation in pagan mythology. km to the Milli Creek (ØÇÉÇÇ ìï³Ï) bridge, with a (permission required); Overnight in Garni (rustic, Amenaprkich is a classic cruciform central dome locked gate on the other side (key is in the house 3000-5000 AMD for B&B is fair); Springs in the type with antechambers in the four corners. The The 7th c church to the south is also considered a on the hill to your left and back a little). Before area. building is built from red and black tufa clasped chapel, but its age and position next to the the bridge take the left rough path for about 200 over rubble filled walls. The antechambers on the impressive Amenaprkich indicates a more m to Baiberd 4 O east side flank the horseshoe-shaped apse and important status. Most of the building has Â To Mets Gilanlar From Baiberd take a northern were used as vestal changing room and chapels. collapse, save the northern wall and part of the mountain track (jeep or Vilis/UAZ) uphill for about

2.3 km of treacherous, cliff-hugging terrain to the 3.5 km to the south of Geghasar. Ughtusar is one The vank was quite large, as big as nearby Havuts gavit walls, showing how the gavit was divided into remains of Mets Gilanlar 4 O Æ of the prime breeding grounds for the Armenian Tar and possibly bigger. The outer walls once 9 square spaces. The aperture, and the roof, no Ibex and prime hunting ground by international rung around the entire complex but all that remain longer remains, but the style is classic, much as hunt expeditions after the endangered species. Be are on the western and northern edges. The the remaining gavits at Haghbat and very careful if you come across hunters, they are remaining walls contain the ruins of outer Hovhanavank. There are a number of inscriptions armed and should be considered dangerous. buildings, sunken chambers and still to be on the gavit wall and the floor was once paved by excavated residential quarters. tombstones. Camping is possible in the area (be sure you have permit to stay in the preserve); Overnight in Garni (rustic, 3000-5000 AMD for B&B is fair); Springs along river beds.

Â Getting to Aghjots vank is a circuitous route. Take the NW path out of Mets Gilanlar (take the left before the village), cross the river and pass the old mill then continue for about 1.5 km to the ruins of Yelijah Village (“Yeh-lee-ja” - ºÉÇæ³), where a path strikes out to the east on top of a ridge and in

about 1 km ends at the stunning location for the ² METS GILANLAR - ØºÌ ¶ÆÈ²ÜÈ²ð equally beautiful Aghjots Vank 4 O

Mets Gilanlar’s few huts are all that remain of a You can equally strike out on foot across the valley village that thrived on sheep herding and simple to the vank from Mets Gilanlar 20-30 minutes), or in half a day of strenuous hiking over mountains farming. Like the residents of Baiberd, inhabitants S. Stepanos, a central dome type, dates to the were force-marched to Persia in the 17th c, and from Goght. 11th c, about the same time as Amenaprkich at later Kurdish and Azeri residents left in the 20th Havuts Tar. The dome has collapsed, but the bulk century. The area is now a prime breeding ground ² AGHJOTS VANK - ²Ôæàò ì²Üø 111 of the church remains, showing its classic for several of Armenia’s Endangered species, cruciform type with antechambers at the four including the Persian Leopard, Armenian Mouflon Aghjots vank is perched on a mountain ridge overlooking the Gilanlar River. Local lore traces its corners. The tall central hall was buttressed by and the Armenian/Persian Ibex. The terrain is strong corners of basalt stone, which in turn rough and sparsely vegetated, and while there are founding to Grigor Lusavorich (Gregory the Illuminator) in the 4th c on the site of the supported the drum arches. The church was made some excellent hikes to the North and East, it can of red and black tufa, now discolored by wear but get bloody hot in the summertime and sun screen, martyrdom of S. Stepanos (a companion of Hripsimeh), which places the site in the Pagan era, in their heyday a colorful addition to the hill top. bottled water and a good hat is required. A good Cornices are edged with smooth ribbing, as are the Grigor spending his time knocking down or guide is also strongly advised, both to get to the windows. Inside, the simple lines of the structure good spots for bird and animal watching, and as converting Pagan temples. The site was part of a Bronze and Iron Age culture in the area, developed are enhanced by ribbing while the apron has The jewel of the vank, and what all that travel was part of your permission to enter the preserve. A geometric patterning and places where a series of local guide can be found in Garni (Call Samvel into a walled compound by the 2nd millennium for, abuts the north wall of S. Stepanos, the stellar BCE. You can find the remains of Bronze Age painted icons once stood. S. Poghos-Petros (Sts. Peter and Paul) chapel built Ohanian at tel. 72076, cell 091-77-87-52) and through one of the Adventure Tour Operators fortresses and Vishaps in the surrounding in 1270. The little chapel is covered on its mountains. The 13th c gavit was added in 1207 for the western façade with extraordinary carvings of listed at the beginning of this chapter. vank’s benefactors, Atabeg Ivaneh Zakarian and khachkars, geometric patterns and two remarkable If the Christian church was established in the 4th Prince Grigor Khaghbakian. Unlike the gavit at depictions of S. Petros (Peter, left) and the S. Hikes. A good 1-3 day hike with overnight on the Havuts tar, the gavit at Aghjots Vank has enough Geghama Lehr, is to strike out NE following the century, it was probably a wooden structure, Poghos (Paul, right). The depiction of religious rebuilt in later centuries before becoming an remaining walls to give some sense of its large figures this large on the façade of a church is rare Gilanlar River (now Karahun River), which in about size. And height. The walls tower above the 10.3 km runs to the south of Vishaplich Lake (the important vank that was greatly expanded in the in Armenia. I haven’t found any other quite this 13th c, resulting in its current layout. Sacked in central plan, matching the church walls but large in the country. Others do exist, in the lake is about –1.5 km to the north), a good increasing the volume of the entire structure camping spot and the site of several Pagan 1603 during Shah Abbas’ deportation of western Armenia, famously Aghtamar at Lake Van Armenians, the vank was partially restored in the exponentially. The roof was supported by in present day Turkey. monuments. At the end of the river (another 3.5 interconnecting arches, supported by central km) you pass between Mts Vishaplehr (3157.7 m, 18th c along with Havuts tar, only to be sacked again in the same century and permanently ruined columns and columns placed along the outer walls. All around the site are the remains of service 3 km to the north) and Geghasar (3443.m, 6 km A ‘ghosting’ of the arches can be seen on the to the south), with Mt. Ughtusar (3170 m) about during Azeri/Armenian fighting in 1905-06. buildings and the terracing used for farming. Much western façade of the church and the remaining of the gavit’s walls and many of the khachkar

Natural Armenia: page 37 of 48 - © 2005 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition tombstones have tumbled down into the gorge, worth the effort for the physically dexterous.

Camping is possible in the area (be sure you have permit to stay in the preserve); Overnight in Garni (rustic, 3000-5000 AMD for B&B is fair); Springs in the area, riverbed.

² ² ² ² ²

the home of the gods and source of all power in final 14.3 km to the end of the road at KARI LICH sq km of land in its central elevation, and 18% of ARAGATS CLIMBING 111 KARI LICH - SOUTH SUMMIT - EAST SUMMIT - the kingdom. Spend a couple of hours here and and MT. ARAGATS (DD 40.50 x 44.166666) the total landmass of the republic There are four NORTH SUMMIT - WEST SUMMIT you will feel like you can touch the top of the sky, summits: North (the highest, 4090m), West and you will be amazed at the way the mountain ² KARI LICH - Î²ðÆ ÈÆÖ (“Stone Lake” elev. (4080m), South (3879m) and East (3916m) This trip features the four peaks of Mt. Aragats, changes, the deep inner cauldron churning up 3200), for details see Kari Lich at end of trip 2. forming the jagged edge of the volcanic crater, the highest point in Armenia (elev. 4090m/13,415 clouds, rain and snow in the same summer’s day. once a massive cone (10,000+/- m) which blew ft) with absolute elevation ranges from 450- ² MT. ARAGATS 1111 itself open about 500,000 years ago, just as the Æ + 4 4,090m (1,476-13,419 ft) above sea level. It O (DD 40.5333 x 44.20000) first settlers began to inhabit the area. Pictograms Stay: Camping at Kari Lich and in the cone. includes tips for hikers and information about each Aragatsotn is dominated by Mt. Aragats (elev. found on the mountainside allude to this Eat: Concession stand at Kari Lich. of the peaks, from the relatively easy climb of the 4090m), a dormant strato-volcano and the tallest catastrophic event, which ended an era of warm Springs: Dozens of springs and pure water southern peak (about 3 hours for the average fit mountain in the country. About 40 km from moist climate and began the continental weather person) to the more challenging peaks that require streams on the mountainside. Yerevan, Aragats is a category 1B mountain patterns Armenia has today. several days of acclimation and climb from inside (tourist category 3, some easy roped climbing) Â The trip begins at Kari Lich (end of Trip 2). the collapsed cone of the now dormant volcano. makes Mt. Aragats accessible to most mountain The crater spilled lava mostly to the east and NW, From Agarak center, take the Biurakan road N No matter what your physical aptitude is, you climbers and naturalists wanting to explore its four which have undulating landscapes; between the S should not miss at least driving to Kari Lich at the (first right after the Voskevaz T-intersection) road peaks. and E crests the wall is broken, the lava filling in base of the cone and gazing on one of Armenia’s for about 5 km to Biurakan, then another 2.4 to the Aparan plateau. Today the Gegharot River Antarut, another 5 km to the Amberd turnoff and a most magical spots, worshipped for millennia as The mountain is massive, covering more than 820 flows down to the village of Aragats, past an ancient pagan cave site that was converted into a S. Lusavorich shrine. The Karakatal mountain range, a sharp peak of rock formation, stretches to the south of the mountain (you passed it to get here, on your right). It is matched with another to the N. Between each peak there are saddlebacks of stone with rocky pathways and crevices, each with its own stunning view of the landscape and challenges for the mountaineer.

From the top of the mountain you can see most of the Lesser and Great Caucasus Range, even as far as Mt. Elbrus, Europe’s tallest mountain at 5642m. Elbrus lies N on the Georgian/Russian border, about 500 km away. Ararat Valley stretches to the south and SW for about 100 km, and there are excellent views of the upper elevations of Mt. Ararat and the Republic of Turkey to the west and southwest. To the east and southeast is the

Aparan plateau and Lake Sevan, the Geghama lehr pyroclastic flows but contain more water); the bird watching potentials (including one of the that separates the lake from the Ararat Valley My first assault on Mt. Aragats (there is no latter characteristic of Holocene summit eruptions. largest colonies of Caucasian bats in the world). nearest, the Sevan Mountains and Karabakh other way to put I, it was a long, arduous Amberd is at alt. 3000m so a good place to further to the east. North is Lori and Tavush and assault) was up the “easy” southern peak. I Minerals. Anhydrite, Chalcedony Agate, acclimate to the upper elevations. in the NW you can see the city of Giumri, 70 km went with friends and we met a group of Chalcopyrite, Gypsum, Pyrrhotite, and Quartz. distant. alpine enthusiasts of all ages, the youngest 4 Bird Sightings: Horned Lark, Rufus-tailed Rock years old, the oldest in his 70’s. The night ECOLOGY. Thrush, Alpine Accentor, Wallcreeper and Snow Snowbound for most of the year, save a few weeks before we camped out in the cold July air (a Even in the heat of summer mini glaciers can be Finch occur in the more upland areas along with from mid July through August, the mountain has relief from the stifling heat of Yerevan below) found on the mountain side at multiple elevations. high-altitude specialties of the area such as numerous small lakes, among them Kari Lich, Most are on the north end of smaller peaks and Caspian Snowcock and Crimson-winged Finch. and sat around a campfire telling Armenian situated at the base of the S summit, Lake hills, the shadows, but several exist year round. More widespread upland birds include both rock Lessing, and inside the crater a “secret pool” of stories and singing folk songs. In the summer, immediately next to glacial ice are thrushes, Northern Wheatear and Ring Ouzel. glacial blue water that expands and disappears as grass and beautiful yellow, white and sky blue Western Rock Nuthatch and Red-billed Chough are the snow melts or falls. There are also several The next morning, we began the climb. I alpine flowers, which pop up overnight and can common. Raptors are impressive and include reservoirs capturing the melting snows, the largest quickly learned that no matter how many miles repeat flower throughout the summer season. Eastern Imperial and Lesser Spotted Eagles and of which, to the NW, is Lake Mantash. I had slogged in the hot Texas sun to prepare One of the mountain’s delights is straddling both, Long-legged Buzzard in summer and Pallid Harrier for this climb, I was no match for the Armenian one foot in ice and snow, the other on lime green and Steppe Eagle in autumn. The lower slopes The mountain top has several “hidden” pagan and mountain goats around me. I had trained at a grass with thousands of white star flowers. The and scrub around Lake Kari hold more of the area's early Christian shrines, hardly surprising given it relatively low altitude of 1800 ft, while I was mountain also has a few standing forests (between specialties such as Radde's Accentor and the was considered a cauldron of the gods, its starting here at over 10,000 ft. I knew I was a Biurakan and Nor Amberd) and numerous alpine skulking and elusive White-throated Robin. Lesser brooding cone generating storms and fair weather goner when the 4 year old danced by me on meadows. In the spring, the meadows are Grey Shrike also occurs as well as Black-eared several times a day. Now called “Armenia’s the continual 30° incline and waved to me blanketed with wildflowers, the most common of Wheatear, Cetti's Warbler and Black-headed weather maker”, the mountain was worshipped by which is the vivid red Armenian poppy. Bunting. More wooded areas are home to from the top of the mountain, 2 hours into the eons of pagans who only tentatively traded their Mountain Chiffchaff, Golden Oriole and Syrian belief in the all powerful gods of Vahagn, Astghik climb. A few choice thoughts came and Woodpecker. and Aramazd for the Christian trinity in the 4th c. vanished from my mind as I weakly waved To this day pagan symbols and sacrifices abound back, grabbing the air for support. All Birds Include Short-toed Eagle (PM), Pallid on the mountain side, next to or within Christian shrines. I nearly gave up several times, the last 50 ft Safety Tips from the peak. I only made it because of Tico One legend that descends from the Pagan period, and Christine, who kept me going with • Wear sturdy hiking shoes (sneakers not an option) esp. if the legend of the all-burning light of the promises of the great view and the fact I Zoroastrian religion is applied, is about S. Grigor would have “done it”. • Bring plenty of water, lip balm and a hat Lusavorich, who converted the country with King To add insult to injury, they of course • You are close to the sun’s UV rays; wear T’rdat III in the 4th c. In it, Grigor climbed to the enjoyed several cigarettes en route while I sunscreen and sunglasses top of Aragats to pray, an all-burning lamp huffed and puff my smoke-free lungs out hanging from the sky lighting his way down in the • Bundle up in layers trying to catch up. evening. Probably predating even the • Use a hiking stick or cane

Zoroastrians, legends of night lights on mountains, • Climb with an experienced leader. (especially volcanic mountains) are easy enough to I did make it, but not before the 4-year old’s naptime and passing her on the way down Photograph courtesy Tigran Nazaryan© • Rope up for all glacier travel. trace. The legend continues that the light still burns, seen only by those who are consecrated while I was still going up. As I caught the last Birding. Aragats is an excellent area to spot • Have at least 2 experienced people per 3 (i.e. the true believers). breath I thought I would ever make, I sat on alpine and upper highland species. The slopes person rope team the edge of the south rim and stared into a east of Kari Lich away from the main road and • Climbing with less then 3 people in a party is Formation limitless crater of brown rock and aquamarine lower hills can also be productive. not recommended and is hazardous. The original volcanic cone is from the Pliocene-to- blue water coursing through the sunken cone Pleistocene age. Satellite cones and fissures on • Be aware of current weather and route floor. For the most diverse and interesting bird watching conditions. the sides of the volcano were the source of large and flora/fauna field trips, two base camps are Use good judgment and know your limits. lava flows that descended to the lower layers, optimal: just below the rim at Kara Lich (alpine • Pleistocene to 3000 BCE. A 13-km-long, WSW- assumed to be from the Holocene age though later and sub-glacier), and 2/3rds up the Mountain, at Potassium-Argon dating indicated mid- to late- ENE-trending line of craters and pyroclastic For more information: Amberd. Amberd lies at the dividing line between (fluidized masses of rock fragments and gases) climbing.about.com/ Pleistocene ages. The youngest flows (at the mountain forest and alpine vegetation zones. formations cut across the northern rim and is the Gear List bottom) have not been definitively dated, but are Amberd sits over two massive river canyons, each source of young lava flows and lahars (similar to conjectured to be from the end of the late- providing excellent hiking, field trips, caving and

Harrier (PM), Levant Sparrowhawk (Su), Long- Armenia, has charted a specific site for Aragats. crater there is a perpetual ice cover in places, so legged Buzzard, Common Buzzard, Lesser Spotted The Aragats - T/O – 500m vertical flying site is in be aware that at night it will drop to below Eagle (Su), Steppe Eagle (PM), Eastern Imperial the foothills of Mt. Aragats, the highest mountain freezing. Outside the crater it drops to between 0- Eagle (Su), Golden Eagle, Booted Eagle (Su), in Armenia to the NW of Yerevan. The winds can 3° C (32-37° F) at night, and is rarely warmer Common Kestrel, Lanner Falcon (rare), Northern be high but the site has good thermal potential than 7-10° C (45-50 F) in the daytime. Hobby (Su), Caspian Snowcock, Chukar Partridge, and provides great views of Mt. Aragats. Hiking to Common Quail (Su), Woodpigeon, Turtle Dove a small rocky T/O takes about 2-3 hours. For Outfitting. Sufficient clothes for winter-like (Su), Common Cuckoo (Su), Little Owl, Common more information talk to the folks at the club. weather, sturdy boots, plenty of water and energy Swift (Su), Alpine Swift (Su), Hoopoe (Su), Great food like trail mix are required for these climbs. A Spotted Woodpecker, Syrian Woodpecker, CLIMBING ARAGATS: professional guide for all by the South summit is Bimaculated Lark (Su), Wood Lark (Su), Eurasian also required to safely climb the mountain. Skylark, Horned Lark, Sand Martin (Su), House When. July 15-August 15 are the optimum times, Martin (Su), Tree Pipit (Su), Water Pipit (Su), and begin your climb early (dawn or earlier) Guides. If you attempt any peak other than the Black-headed Wagtail (Su), Grey Wagtail, Common though there are no guarantees nature won't south peak you need an experienced guide. They Dipper, Radde's Accentor, Alpine Accentor, Photograph courtesy Tigran Nazaryan© decide to give you a few snow showers anyway. ensure safety and know the ins and outs of the Dunnock, Bluethroat, White-throated Robin (Su), The cone is a weather maker; clouds begin to rise mountain better than any book or map. Black Redstart, Common Redstart (Su), Isabelline Paragliding. The Armenian Aviation Club, 24 in the morning with storms common in the Wheatear (Su), Northern Wheatear (Su), Black- Khorenatsi p, Yerevan, E-mail: aac@unesco- afternoons. Showers don't last long, but inside the Background. The crater of Mt. Aragats is a sub- eared Wheatear (Su), Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush clubs.am which offers paragliding throughout (Su), Blue Rock Thrush, Ring Ouzel (Su), Cetti's Warbler, Common Whitethroat (Su), Mountain Chiffchaff (Su), Western Rock Nuthatch, Wallcreeper, Golden Oriole (Su), Lesser Grey Shrike (Su), Red-billed Chough, Northern Raven, Rock Sparrow, Snow Finch, Twite, Crimson-winged Finch, Common Rosefinch (Su), Rock Bunting, Ortolan Bunting (Su), Black-headed Bunting (Su).

Flowers Aragats has some good flower opportunities, including mid summer (July-early August) flowering of alpine species on the slopes leading to the cone, and spring-summer viewing on the lower elevation around Amberd, which is the diving line between alpine and upper forest strata.

Mt. Aragats Flora: Amberd fortress and canyon, 2100-2200m alt. Nectaroscordum tripedale, Inula maria,e Papaver orientale, Astragalus hyalolepis, Medicago dzhavakhetica, Trifolium bordzilovskyi, Ornithogalum najastanicum, Dianthus cretaceus, Solenanthus stamineus

Mt. Aragats Flora: near Kari Lich, alpine meadow 3200m alt. Doronicum oblongifolium, Taraxacum stevenii, Primula algida, Campanula tridentata, Gentiana pontica, Oxytropis albana, Androsace raddeana, Pedicularis crassirostris, Erodium armenum, Daphne kurdica, Delphinium freynii, Hedysarum caucasicum

Natural Armenia: page 41 of 48 - © 2005 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition polar zone, 750 meters below the rim of the saddle to the North peak. Note the real peak is forlorn, but with gorgeous views of the crater, the mountain. In warm summers, as ice melts it marked with metal tripods; there is a “false other peaks and Shirak marz. Below it is Lake forms shallow ponds. The tallest peak is 4090m summit” that appears to be the top, but is not. Mantash, which one of the ways up the peak. and the crater floor is 3250m. Â (Experienced Guide) From the South summit, The climbs. Camping inside the crater for a few descend to the SW saddleback and across to the W days is definitely worthwhile, since it has summit. There are ridges leading to the top, your spectacular rock formations and provides guide will know the best one for you. incredible star-gazing opportunities at night. From Kari Lich, each of the four peaks with their Â (Experienced Guide) From the crater you have saddlebacks (North, South, East and West) can be two options, SW saddle or a steep climb to the NW climbed, camping at base, or inside the crater. end, then up to the peak. Your guide will know Allow one day for each climb, returning to base or the best route for the season and your experience camping inside the crater. You are strongly level. advised to spend 1-2 days before the climb at Kari Lich or higher to acclimate yourself to the thin air and high altitude. Altitude sickness is rare on Aragats. But can occur.

Photograph courtesy Tigran Nazaryan© Our climbs begin with the South peak, which is the most popular and easiest to climb of the four, then It takes 4-5 hours to reach from Kari Lich, or continues around the rim to the East, spending the about 3 hours from the crater floor. night at base camp next to Kari Lich or inside the crater. Â The most obvious path from the South summit is to follow the SW saddleback towards the crater, ² SOUTH PEAK 111 (3879m) is the easiest to sliding down its gravelly side and skirting the west climb of all four peaks. The hike will be easy for peak across glacial ice to the North peak. However physically fit, but for the rest of us it is a it is easier to walk to the NE side of the main moderately arduous climb, hardest the closer you summit and clamber up its loose rock slopes to the get to the top, when the high altitude and the eastern saddle that leads to the North peak. Photograph courtesy Tigran Nazaryan© constant 30° incline conspire to stop the most determined “weekend hiker”. Slogging through Photograph courtesy Tigran Nazaryan© Â A more challenging climb, that also takes in Â (Experienced Guide) There is a longer (1-2 the thin air and perspiring climb is well worth it, as more mountain terrain and requires more stamina, day) route that begins in Shirak marz, from the N the entire landscape of Armenia and Eastern Â A third way, preferred by the climbers I went up is to descend from the south summit to the SW edge of Lake Mantash, returning to the lake, or Turkey spread out before you. On the top of the with, is to begin the climb on the north shore of saddleback, and skirting the W peak, descend into descending into the crater for an overnight. The rocky peak there is a metal cross and a number of the lake, over to a ridge overlooking Amberd Lich, the crater then skirt along the western peak to the trek climbs the longest route to the west peak, but make-shift altars and shrines, some with matagh then follow the mountain side upwards in a NE W end of the north summit, following a cleft in the has some of the most dramatic landscapes, from (sacrificial) offerings. pattern until it meets up with the dirt track. This NW summit to the secondary height and then dip alpine to rocky terrain. This side of the mountain adds an extra hour to the hike, but has some down and up again to the main peak. receives less of the pollution of Yerevan, so the Â Easiest route is to begin hiking upwards from gorgeous views of Shirak and Lori on the way up. skies are bluer; the colors more vivid till you reach the lake in a zigzag formation, in a northwesterly Â A third path is to descend first S from the south the summit. This route leaves just N of Mantash, direction. Eventually (1-2 hours, depending on ² NORTH PEAK 111 (4090m) is Aragats’ highest, summit to the SE saddle (part of one of the routes tracing the Armenia Canal to the Geghadzor River, your lung and leg power), you should meet up with and one of the most rugged peaks requiring an up) and cross on the East peak, or skirting below it following the latter to the western peak. Your a dirt track (the track begins NE of the concession experienced guide to safely mount. The summit over to the north peak. On the rim there is a trail guide will have the best route for the season and stand at the lake) and begin to switchback the has both a marker at its highest point and the leads to the peak. your level of experience. mountain to the top. The last slog is 30m of real numerous makeshift shrines or memorials, of incline, climbing past an abandoned service successful climbs as well as pagan and Christian Â From Aparan district/Aragats v. and Gegharot ² EAST PEAK 112 (3916m) can be almost as building and through a crevice up to the summit. purpose. The climb up the peak is much more River take the approach to the East Peak stopping difficult as the western peak, or as easy as the difficult than the south summit, if for nothing else at the Jrvesh falls (details on p. 43) North Peak, depending on your trek. An Â Another way up (for the really fit and macho) is than the typical climb is to surmount the South experienced guide is recommended for this peak. to locate the rock ridge to the east of the lake, Peak first, then descend into the crater and across ² WEST PEAK 111 (4080m) is Aragats second Connected by a saddle to the North peak, it is climb it and then follow the ridge up. You have to to the North edge. Longer treks requiring tallest peak and its most difficult climb, requiring separated by a wide crevice from the SE saddle, cross onto a bisecting ridge that forms one of the considerably more stamina course across the West an experienced guide, ropes and gear to mount. It from which lava poured eastward during the saddlebacks. peak saddleback then across the steady including is a solid piece of jagged red rock, windswept and Holocene Era, creating the rich alluvial souls of the

Aparan plateau. It also created the widest gap in The ascent passes through alpine fields and flocks west of Aragats Village. the crater rim, the source of the rushing waters of of sheep and cattle shepherded by Yezdi Villagers the Gegharot River that flows to the Aparan who spend their summers in the upper elevations, Camping at Kari Lich and volcanic crater (bring plateau. and wild stands of grass, flowers and scrub. It warm tent and sleeping bag; Overnight at Physics also passes, about 500m past a fork in the Institute ($10/15, $20/30 with food); Springs Gegharot River the highest altitude waterfall on around Kari Lich and in crater. Aragats (J’rvesh). At 2500m, it is a good acclimation stop, and lies in a different vegetation zone from the others. Nearby is an old S. Grigor Lusavorich cave-shrine, converted from an older ² ² ² ² ² pagan site. From here, the ascent to the crater and the East Peak is half a day, returning to the falls, or camping in the crater for more climbs in the next day.

Going the other way, it is a half-day descent from the East Peak/crater to J’rvesh, stopping to rest and enjoy the falls and set up camp. It is another half-day descent from J’rvesh to a pickup spot Photograph courtesy Tigran Nazaryan©

Â (Experienced Guide) From the South summit you can backtrack on the S ridge to the SE saddleback, descending into the crater on the E end and across the waters of the Gegharot and its delta, then up the S ridge of the East Peak. Or descend into the crater following the N/NE slopes, then cross the crater to the peak. Your guide will advise the best route.

Â (Experienced Guide) From North Summit follow the NE saddleback down and then up to the East Peak, either on the ridge path or up the face of the mountain peak, depending on the challenge you want.

Â (Experienced Guide) From crater cross to the east of the crater, over glacial snowcaps to the Gegharot delta and up the E edge of the peak. There is a path that climbs up the ridge to the summit, and continues westward to the North peak.

Â (Experienced Guide) Aparan / Gegharot River. This trek is longer (1-2 days) and is a great beginning or ending point to climbing multiple peaks, spending the night in the crater or at J’rvesh Falls on the Gegharot River. The trek starts on the Aparan plateau, east of Aragats village. The village is about 14 km from the crater, following the Gegharot River, but a mountain track follows the river to the base of the J’rvesh Falls, which are about 4 km from the headwaters of the River inside the crater.

The mountain is a unique combination of geological species can be propagated, though an experienced ² ARAI LEHR: SEMIRAMIS RISING 222 strata, with andesite-basalt rock formations on its The Legend of Ara and Shamiram and the guide is absolutely necessary to determine which (DD 40.412842544007816 x Eastern slope and fields of “stone hail,” rounded creation of Arai Lehr can be naturalized and which must be left alone. 44.456520080566406) For Satellite image of Arai volcanic stones formed sprays of lava that Lehr, go to www.maps.google.com and enter hardened while falling to the ground or formed At this time there lived Semiramis (Shamiram in Additional information on Arai Lehr’s eco-system is 40.412842544007816, 44.456520080566406 in while rolling down the hardened slopes. Other Armenian), the queen of Nineveh and a sorceress of in the Mt. Arai Lehr section of the Aragatsotn the search box. Great image. slopes (south, east) have tall rock monoliths with the dark arts. Her husband was Ninus, who came to chapter. See adventure tour operators for expert natural caves and rich, fertile volcanic loam that loathe her for her infidelity, and left his country. flora guides. Semiramis, who had heard about the fame of the nurtures an incredible variety of flora, a number of handsome Armenian king Ara (“Ara Geghetsik”), species of which are unique to Arai Lehr. The lusted after his image and asked him to come to northern slopes are forested; thought illegal Nineveh and marry her. Ara refused, so she logging is slowly stripping the mountain of this marched her armies towards Armenia. vital resource that prevents land erosion and desertification. The forests consist of hardwood The battle began when Semiramis arrived in the species (oak, maple) with birch and seven species region called Ararat, at the foot of the mountain that of ash along with others. In addition the forests bears Ara’s name. She wanted him caught alive, but have a number of wild fruit trees and berries. he was vanquished, his body found on the battlefield About 50 species of shrubbery grow on the slopes. among other slain soldiers. In order to calm the Western slopes show the effects of clear-cut Armenians, who wanted to avenge his death, logging; emerald green during a few weeks of Semiramis said, "I have prayed to the gods to lick spring, the slopes quickly dry in May, turning a his wounds and heal him. Ara will revive." harsh shade of brown for most of the year. Semiramis believed she could revive him. But when his corpse decayed she became crazed and Photograph courtesy Tigran Nazaryan© had her servants bury it in a deep grave. Dressing

one of her men as the fallen king, she came before the Armenians and said it was him. She had a The volcanic cone that blew itself off sometime in statue erected in his name and gave sacrifices to the the Paleolithic Era, cooling to its present shape by the Early Bronze Age, around the same time as Photograph courtesy Tigran Nazaryan© gods for saving his life. The Armenians believed her Aragats and other volcanoes in the country. The and spared her death at their hands. Semiramis sunken cone is open on several sides, allowing The volcanic cone Mt. Arai Lehr (pronounced “ar- then left Armenia for Van and Nineveh. melted snows to form the mountain streams that EYE lehr” elev. 2575.9 m) looms over the feed the Kasakh and Hrazdan Rivers. countryside, in clear view of Mt. Aragats and the Another version of the story explains the creation

Geghama Lehr. The mountain, named for the of the mountain that bears Ara's name (Arai Lehr, literally “Ara’s mountain”). This version has Ara On its northern side the mountain has traces of the mythical Armenian hero Ara Geghetsik (Ara the being cast upon the mountain by Shamiram after he native forests that once covered its slopes, the Beautiful or Handsome) slain by the Queen spurns her advances. Shamiram, skilled in black northern shadows protecting the trees from the Semiramis (Shamiram in Armenian) is so named magic, conjured the forces of the night to throw him hot southern sun, which is brutal in the summer because of the shape of its crest from the west; Photograph courtesy Tigran Nazaryan© into the void, and when he landed, his body sank (bring your sun screen, hat and water). the mountain ridge resembles the prone face of a onto the top of the mount, giving it its present man, some saying it is the body of Ara, banished Ecology. For such a small territory Arai Lehr contour. Yet another tale says that when Ara died, The Peaks to the mountain by the dark arts of the Babylonian contains a surprising complexity of topography, and Semiramis had him buried at the foot of the There are 6 peaks around the sunken cone of the queen. The mountain had a less exotic mountain, his spirit rose, forming the top of the taking in almost all of Armenia’s total: semi desert, dormant volcano, with its own views and connotation with its Turkish name, Garniyarigh mountain into his sleeping likeness. The top of the mountain steppe, hardwood forests and meadows challenges to reach from the central crater (none (“Wounded Stomach”). mountain does resemble the contour of a man's face. with small sections of tall herbaceous, rocky and are very hard if you are physically fit):

mountain scrub. The view from the top of Arai Lehr is incredible Central 2605m with the Geghama Lehr and the Kotaik plateau to species are incredibly beautiful, including mountain Arai Lehr officially has 650 species of vascular East 2577m the east, the Tsaghkuniats range and Aparan Crocus, Iris and Oriental Poppies, and are at their plants, an amazing concentration of twenty South-east 2572m Jrambar to the north, an uninterrupted view of most abundant in the early-mid spring (mid April- percent of Armenia’s total. Twenty species on the Ktuts (west) 2511m Mts. Ararat & Aragats, Ashtarak and the Kasakh May). Others found on the slopes include mountain are endemic to the Armenian Plateau, North-west 2481m River gorge to the west, and the Ararat Valley and Pushkinia scilloides, Merendera trigyna and Scilla nine of which are exclusive to the republic. Of the North-east 2478 m Yerevan to the south. armena, Fritillaria caucasica, snowflower total over thirty are considered rare and threatened, fifteen of which are listed in the Red (Merendera trigyna) and the rare Aquilegia olympica. Most of the rare and endangered Flowers on Arai Lehr include (in season) Book of Endangered Species in Armenia. Many Merendera trigyna, M. raddeana, colchiam

Natural Armenia: page 44 of 48 - © 2005 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition bifolium, Purdminia scilloides, Scilla armenia, S. rubicundum, Silena spergulifolia. mountain road (“Left”); the other just S of the siberica, Tulipa julia, Iris caucasia, Muscari village ruins (“Right”). Both intersect about 3 caucasicum, Bellevalia pycnantha, Ornithogalum Birding on Arai Lehr is better in migration periods, km from the crest of the mountain, the right schelkovnikovii, O. brachystachys, O. hyastanum, but there are some species you can see year track continuing forward to the top of the Fritillaria caucasia, Nectarosordum tripedale, Osp round, including Red-footed Falcon, Merlin, mountain and the left skirting the NE base of the of gagea, Myosotis alpestre, Amenone caucasia, Eurasian Hobby, Rufous-tailed Rock-Thrush, Blue mountain before turning sharply right (SW) and Orchis coriophora, Gladiolus tenuis. Rock-Thrush, Sombre Tit, Rock Bunting, Grey- climbing the NE cleft of the mountain. necked Bunting, Crimson-winged Finch, Red- Mountain Steppe flora include Gladiolus fronted Serin, Trumpeter Finch, Mongolian Finch, Â Another mountain road intersects the atroviolaceus, Nigella oxypetala, Actynolema Eurasian Linnet, White-Winged Snowfinch, Norashen road 1 km north of central Yer’njatap macrolema, Gundelia tournefort, Verbascum Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Spanish Sparrow, Pale on the NE end of the village and a right turn (SE) saccatum, Lallemanita iberica, Roemeria retracta, Rock-Finch, Rock Sparrow, White-winged takes you to a right fork (S) in about 700m onto Scabiosa argentea, Scorronera paposa, Muscari Snowfinch, Rose-coloured Starling a mountain track that passes the NE edge of the beglecta, Stchys inflata, Astragalus distyophysus, mountain and after about 4.4 km leads to a path A. kochianus, Achillea tenuifolia, Helichrysum Climbing the mountain that climbs the NE ridge of the mountain (on its There are several S side) to the crater in about 3.5 km trails up Mt. Arai Lehr from all sides. Â Two other mountain paths start from Some of the most Saralandj in Kotaik marz, some 5 km distant and popular begin in take an westerly route to the East peak, skirting Kotaik, from the around its base to join the NE crevice pathway. south and east. The trails are not difficult Â Southern routes begin from Yeghvard and for the basically fit Pokravan in Kotaik marz. person, though persons not used to South & East Approach hiking should prepare ahead for potentially Nor Yerznka Trail The trail begins just NWW of tiring walks. Good the village and across the Arzni-Shamiram canal, sturdy hiking shoes, where a dirt path forks off to the R about 250 m a hat, sun screen and from the canal. The path (navigable by off road wind breaker are de vehicles most of the way up) crosses grassy Photograph courtesy Tigran Nazaryan© rigueur on even meadows and farmlands for about 9 km before summer days, as meeting up with the path from Yeghvard Village. Yeghvard Trail More popular as the Nor Yerznka well as plenty of From there it begins the climb in earnest (another trail, but shorter by a few km, the Yeghvard trail water. 9 km), passing natural outcrops, mountain leaves the north end of the village and strikes streams and ridges plus the Kuis Varvara (Sister across the northern fields to the mountain. It is West / North Barbara) shrine, also known as Tsaghkevank joined with the Nor Yerznka trail in about 4.5 km Approach (“Flower Monastery”), inside a cave with a spring. from the village, and then climbs in a circular path The water from the spring is reputed to have over the mountain’s ridges and natural monuments Â A SW mountain curative powers, especially relating to eyesight. of rock towers, along with the Kuis Varvara road runs parallel to There is a significant level of zinc in the water, (Tsaghkevank) shrine (another 9 km). the Kasakh River for known to assist in eye sight, along with joint and about 4.6 km to muscle cramps. Drink up! Saralandj Trails The eastern approach is one of where a path leads the shorter paths, but also pastoral, passing up the Western face The moss-covered shrine reputedly contains the through rising hills and forested slopes en route to of the mountain for tomb of the saint along with an altar and (in the top. The trails are also among the shortest to about 4.2 km to the season) candle sellers, belying its original Pagan the top. For the flat footed, there is a mountain summit. use, and probably hiding the resting place of pre- road (Vilis/UAZ /jeep) that departs the village from Christian bones to boot. The Spring once had a its N/NW edge and skirts the mountain on its way Â Two dirt tracks Vishap (phallus), sadly gone. Those with fading to Yerinjatap and the Aparan reservoir, about 12 exit the south edge eye sight and arthritic joints will be pleased to km distant. About 3.3 km from Saralandj there is a of the village; one know the water has therapeutic concentrations of path on the left that climbs the eastern slopes, next to the SW zinc. Drink up! ending in 3.6 km at the crater. A couple of hiking

Natural Armenia: page 45 of 48 - © 2005 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - www.TACentral.com Travel Guide® – Special Edition trails veer off from the cemetery at the western Guide to Coccoidea (Homoptera) of Armenia Eco Agrotourism in South Caucaus (excellent ERMC Geographical Information Systems edge of the village and join together just below the Borchsenius, NS 1949. Erevan, 60x90 1/16, maps) www.eatsc.com/ http://www.aua.am/aua/research/ermc/html/ main peak, skirting it to the N then west to end at In Russian. Ppb, 271pp. Price USD 29. GIS.htm the top, for a total of about 4.5 km if you take the Ecotourism.com www.ecotourismarmenia.com/ N trail from the cemetery, 5 km if you take the The Holocene mammal fauna of Armenia Greenpeace Mejlumian, SK 1988. Yerevan, 200x145, b/w http://www.greenpeace.org/ southern route. graphs, In Russian. Ppb, 184pp. Price USD EcoTeam Development users.freenet.am/%7Eecoteam/ 26. World Wildlife Fund http://www.wwf.org/

22 Weather Forecasts RESOURCES Fauna of animal parasites and the diseases they www.tacentral.com/weather.asp cause, Zoological miscellanea, Issue 18 EnviroLink Network READINGS http://envirolink.netforchange.com/ Movsesian, SO( ED) 1982. Yerevan, 259x172, Climate Change Info Center-Armenia

numerous tables, b/w graphs, In Russian, www.nature.am/Index.htm European Environment Agency "Forests and Their Significance for Mountainous title, contents and summaries in English. Ppb, http://www.eea.eu.int/ ERMC Armenia, V. Gabrielyan, A. Nalbandyan, N. 166pp. Price USD 24. www.grida.no/enrin/htmls/armenia/soe_arme Global Resource Information Database (GRID) Darbinyan, Yerevan, 2001 Vertebrates, Animal life of SSR Armenia, Vol. 1 nia/english/ermcaua/ermc.htm http://www.grida.no/ "Unique Geological Monuments of Armenia: Dal, SV 1954. Yerevan, 260x180, tables 59, UNEP funded Database of information. Site National Academy of Sciences of Armenia Guidebook for tourists, ” Ashot Avanessian, b/w figs 46, indexes 2, In Russian. Hdb, includes 2nd Regional South Caucusus www.sci.am/ Edward Malkhassian and Sergey Nazaretyan, 415pp. Price USD 44. Workshop http://www.grida.no/enrin/aarhus/yerevan/in (Armenian Foundation of Seismic Protection Identification book of the mealybugs and scales Protected Areas of Armenia dex.htm Yerevan, 2000) (Coccoidea) of Armenia Borchsenius, NS www.grida.no/enrin/biodiv/biodiv/national/arme nia/proarea/prot.htm “Armenia Traveler Encyclopedia,” K. S. 1949. Yerevan, 220x155, b/w figs 225, index, Khudaverdian, S. S. Arevshatian, V. N. Beliy, In Russian. Ppb, 272pp. Price USD 29. Birds of Armenia Project www.cac- Information, Guides Sh. G. Khachatrian, A. V. Kakosian, E. L. Orthopteran insects: Acridoidea, Fauna of SSR biodiversity.org/arm/index.htm Melkonian (Armenian Soviet Encyclopedia, Armenia Avakian, GD 1968. Erevan, Maps of Armenia (to buy) Yerevan, 1990) Plant Genetic Resources in the Caucasus and www.mapsworldwide.com/sec.asp?secid=29 265x180, b/w figs 315, index, In Russian. Central Asia www.cac- “Wetlands in Armenia – their values and threats Hdb, 260pp. Price USD 27. biodiversity.org/arm/arm_biodiversity.htm Maps of Armenia (to look) and their contribution to sustainable www.reliefweb.int/rw/rwb.nsf/doc404?OpenF Coleopterous insects: Ground-beetles “State of the Environment 2000,” Grid-Arendal, development and poverty alleviation,” PDF (Carabidae), Part 1, Fauna of SSR Armenia orm&cc=arm&rc=3 FILE United Nations Environment Programme Iablokoff-Khnzorian, SM 1976. Yerevan, enrin.grida.no/htmls/armenia/soe2000/eng/ ArmeniaGuide.com “First National Report to The Convention on 267x178, b/w figs 38, indexes 2, In Russian. Biological Diversity incorporating A Country Hdb, 297pp. Price USD 32. State Nature Preserves Visa Information, Foreign Ministry Study on the Biodiversity of Armenia” PDF http://www.grida.no/enrin/biodiv/biodiv/natio www.armeniaforeignministry.com/ Fauna of SSR Armenia: Dipteran insects, Black nal/armenia/proarea/prot.htm#res FILE flies (Simuliidae) Terterian, AE 1968. E-Visa Yerevan, 265x175, tables 16, b/w plates 86, State Reservations www.armeniaforeignministry.am/eVisa/ index, In Russian. Hdb, 272pp. Price USD 39. http://www.grida.no/enrin/biodiv/biodiv/natio OTHER BOOKS nal/armenia/proarea/prot.htm#res2 www.virtualarmenia.am

www.armgate.org There are many books on insect and fauna, most ONLINE Sevan National Park scientific books from the Soviet period. http://www.grida.no/enrin/biodiv/biodiv/natio News, Books Ecology nal/armenia/proarea/snpv.htm Lamellicorn beetles (Scarabaeoidea), Fauna of www.ArmeniaNow.com Biodiversity of Armenia www.nature- Map- State Reserves SSR Armenia, Coleopterous insects, Vol. 6, ic.am/biodiv/index%20eng.html http://www.grida.no/enrin/biodiv/biodiv/natio www.abrilbooks.com Yablokov-Khnzorian, SM, 1967. Erevan, nal/armenia/maps/presmapv.htm 265x180, 13 plates of b/w figs, 2 indexes, In Masis.am Mountains www.stvartanbookstore.com www.masis.am/mounts/?lang=eng Russian. Hdb, 226pp. Price USD 49. Map - State ReservationsClimate Change Info www.littlearmenia.com Masis.am Flora Center in Armenia- Ministry of Nature Fauna and ecology of injurious invertebrates of Armenian House Literature www.masis.am/ Protection http://www.nature.am/Index.htm SSR Armenia, Zoological miscellany, Issue 15 www.cac-biodiversity.org/arm/index.htm Avetian, AS( ED) 1970. Yerevan, 260x170, PGRCAC AUA Environmental Research and Management b/w graphs, tabs, In Russian, contents and www.cac-biodiversity.org/arm/index.htm Center summaries in English. Ppb, 220pp. Price USD http://www.aua.am/aua/research/ermc/index 28. .htm

nearest shopping mall was (God give us patience you will have in your visit. Neither the authors nor ABOUT THE AUTHORS 22 and a good dose of Pantalgin). She then worked the publishers assume responsibility for the Rick Ney (author) first came to Armenia in 1992 at the World Food Program in Armenia as services provided by any business listed in this to work at the American University of Armenia. In administrator and Program Officer. In her guide; for any errors or omissions; or any loss, 1993 he began his work in humanitarian aid and previous life Bella worked with International damage, or disruptions in your travel for any development for USAID-funded projects at the architects at ArmStateDesign Institute as an reason. No fee, service, or discount of any kind Armenian Assembly of America and Fund for information program assistant and translator. She was received by any business listed here for Democracy and Development, the latter as is currently Executive Director of the NGO Historic inclusion or recommendation. Advertisements Caucasus Region Director. This morphed into Armenian Houses. History and architecture are included in TourArmenia guides pay for inclusion, writing about Armenia for various publications, her true loves and she has traveled to China, the income used to defray cost of publishing. which became the first English language complete Thailand, Malaysia, Italy, Germany, and Lebanon Their inclusion is in no way meant to be a guide to Armenia in 1996 (online) and 1998 (CD- and throughout the former Soviet Union. Bella recommendation by TourArmenia or its authors, ROM). It has since become an online resource, tops this off by maintaining her membership in the and do not necessarily represent the views of the visited by more than 24 million unique visitors World Esperanto Association. Saluton! authors on their services. TourArmenia is written (www.TACentral.com and www.TourArmenia.info). by an opinionated author with distinct views about Rick is passionate about Armenia’s deep history, Thanks to: (Region): Ashot Levonian for his the country and traveling in Armenia. The views amazing ecology, and making the country information on hiking and caving tours in Tavush, expressed here in no way represents the views or accessible for independent travelers, whom he to Boris Gasparyan for detailed info and critique of opinions of others involved in the process of believes will be the basis of Armenia’s entry into the prehistoric material; (General): to Tigran creating this guide, the publisher or the open world. In 2000 he began dividing his Nazarian and Christine Karapetian for their ArmeniaNow.com. time between Armenia and caring for a parent in insightful comments, advice, trips into the Texas, both of which he considers the richest wilderness and challenging ideas; to Gagik Gurjian experiences of his life. from the Ministry for Historical Preservation, who Legal Stuff: TourArmenia® Travel Guides and

has been showing me the intricacies of Armenia’s all content are protected by US and Rafael Torossian (research, maps, and graphics) cultural monuments and their influences since International copyright laws. You may print has been collaborating with Rick on TourArmenia 1992, leading me to some of the mot amazing out and use this PDF file for your own personal since 1996, providing some much needed reality places and events I have been, as well as to the use only. You promise not to sell, resell or use checks and commentary along the way. In his large vat of killer Voskevaz wine in his garden; to this material for any commercial reason and other life Rafael designs flash sequences, ads, Stepan Ter-Margaryan & the folks at the Institutes that no part of this document will be taken out graphics and web sites for TWRI, for a variety of of History and Archeology branches of the National of context or reproduced in any format without sites and content management projects. In a Academy for their help on pointing me to original written permission from TourArmenia and the previous life Rafi was a field and track athlete, sources and exhaustive original information on author. setting the All Armenia record (still unbroken) for destinations; to Sam Stepanian for his eternal the 60 meter dash, then as Assistant to the support; to Arminco, Grisha Saghian and Vahan Minister for Sports, serving (surviving) 6 ministers, Yerkanian for their support, the creation of the first before meeting Rick, when they worked together edition on CD, link ups and links to culture and on several humanitarian aid projects managed by more. To ArmeniaNow.com for giving me the the Armenian Assembly of America and Fund for chance to share this material to their world. And to Democracy and Development. In a world where R and L. TMB. engineers are taxi drivers, Rafi became the finance manager for these projects, creating the first NOTICE: Though intended to provide information multi-denomination accounting system for USAID about Armenia, this guide in no way is meant to be projects in the Caucasus, tracking currency that a recommendation or guarantee of the kind of inflated at one time 150% per day. Rafi is an experience you will have in your travels. Places Honored Coach of the Republic of Armenia and and prices change—often overnight—as do services lives in Yerevan, a proud Yerevantsi who did not and quality. That great place we found one time leave during the dark years of 1991-1995. can completely change the next, or start price-

gouging once it learns it is becoming popular. Bella Karapetian (Editing, Translations, Russian Some simply disappear. We strive to make this Edition) first met Rick in 1993 when she came to guide as accurate as possible at the time of the American University and worked in his office as writing, but often by the time of printing things Faculty services Manager and Special Events have changed, and we begin the process of Coordinator. There she had the chance to use her updating. We do not guarantee any service, price remarkable patience and good humor with wide- or venue listed herein, nor the type of experience eyed professors wanting to know where the