Routes of The legacy of al-Andalus The Caliphate in

Major Cultural Route of the Council of Europe 2 3

This route is altogether an adventure for the spirit: the two poles between Salobral, the sierras become gentler and, upon entering the Moclín passes, they which the fabulous cultural, religious, political and social legacy, which start to slowly descend. Around , , Güevéjar and Cogollos represents the stay of the Muslims in the peninsula, oscillates, with an almost Vega they have practically disappeared. In and Víznar, they already only moribund intensity. Córdoba, the apogee, the blinding light that made the other form a horizon of mountains, woods and pastures, springs and streams, all of which cities of the West turn pale. Granada, the refined terminal mannerism of an entire pertain to the natural park of Huétor. The fertile Vega of Granada, irrigated by the civilization at stake. And in between, the castles and towns that were, at first, Genil, is closer, with its white hamlets. Granada is less than a league away and the stages or milestones in a more-or-less accidental interchange and later Sierra Nevada, which is both a national and a natural park, the ecological wealth of campsites and bases to corner and lay siege to Granada. which led it to be declared a Reserve of the Biosphere by the UNESCO. Its complexity is the dominant feature of its relief, a labrynth of ravines, gorges, quarries and This itinerary is a history lesson, taking place in three different districts and streams, on the slopes of which a most varied and autochthonous vegetation following intense frontier skirmishes on the part of the Banu Yahwar, Banu Ziri, flourishes; groves of holm oaks, black oaks, Spanish cedars and Andalusian pines. Almoravids and Almohads… all of which is described by the geographer al-Idrisi The interesting fauna along this Route is centred on two sectors; the fauna of the and the written down by the erudite Ibn Said al-Magribi. It takes us to the Christian sierras, which consists principally of birds of prey and mammals and the fauna conquest, which affected the development of all the Andalusian related to the wetlands, which includes a great variety of aquatic birds. territories, reinforced the defenses of the urban areas and concentrated the rural populace in the towns. The psychosis The Cavalcade of the Kings, St. Anthony, patron saint of livestock and the of frontier, accentuated by the incursions of raiding parties carnival, in January and February, are the highlights of the annual festive cycle in and even by the Moorish army, from the middle of the 14th this area. Holy Week is a particularly important festivity in all the places along century, fed Castilian literature in a beneficial way, offering this Route. Also, the festival of the Cross, when apart from the crosses, frontier episodes to the authors of Spanish romances. A all the patios, streets and squares are decorated with popular good example is the cycle of the Princes of Lara. Those of symbols and with flowers, the pilgrimages to the conquered cities were added to these romances. the countryside and Corpus Christi, which is particularly important in We will be able to appreciate the towns and cities which Granada. Flamenco, both in its local made up a civilization, which at first explodes and then dies festive and profound forms, is down, not into embers, but rather into a final withering goad. The always an important feature in the continuous presence of walled towns and castles, perched on strategic heights, fairs and festivals. The summer is an outstanding feature of the Route, which gives it a markedly historic and announces festivals related to the romantic look. Most of these fortresses and towns came into being precisely grape harvest, which constituted one of the during the existence of al-Andalus. Its fortified appearance became even more principal festivities for the Spanish muslims. accentuated from the 11th century onwards, as the frontier zone became divided between Christians and Nasrids and the conflicts became more intense. The stamp of al-Andalus can be noticed in many of the traditional practices in the towns along this route. Echoes of the period of the Caliphate can still be Apart from being historically and ethically informative, it is also aesthetically detected, for example, in the ceramics, both in the designs and in the colour, pleasing. At once a history lesson and a treat for the senses and not just for the eyes. often using enamelling in the so-called manganese green style. The continuity of The cultivated palate will also encounter local flavours, dishes and confectionery, the ancestral traditions of al-Andalus are also apparent in leatherwork, whose origins lie in al-Andalus. The gastronomic wealth of the Route of the Caliphate goldsmithery and jewellery, in wrought ironwork and metalwork, in the use of is supported by the abundant selection in agricultural and livestock products, which vegetable fibres and in woodwork. are being increasingly produced along ecological lines, which endeavour to maintain their natural qualities at a maximum. Throughout the seasons, wines, oils and flours An itinerary in fact, that, between the fire and the ashes of a complete are produced from the vineyards, olive groves and arable land; fruits and vegetables civilisation and thanks to its history, gastronomy, landscape and fauna, will of exceptional quality are obtained from the orchards and market gardens. The undoubtedly leave us a little wiser. This coupled with the enormous legacy that will livestock; beef, sheep, goats, pigs and fowl provide meat, charcuterie and cheeses. be apparent in the villages dotted around this valley, surrounded by mountains, where abundant water gives rise to prosperous farming and especially to its The Route crosses an area full of places of great natural and ecological hospitable and amiable people, who also reflect this passage of different cultures. interest. Beyond the Sierras Subbéticas Natural Park and the lacustrine reserve, el

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Moclín

Moclín is hidden in the Moun- 1486, skirmishes were frequent on both tains of Granada, at the foot of sides, alternating with periods of peace, until the Catholic Monarchs decided on the sierra del Marqués, on a its definitive capture. Following the fall of hillside and it would appear, Loja, on the 26th of July 1486, the town face downwards, producing capitulated following a three day seige. one of the most surprising me- The la Mota castle dates from the Nas- rid period and is well preserved, thanks diaeval images in Andalusia. to the fact that the present village grew The origins and history of Moclín run up outside the walled precinct. It has parallel to those of the Nasrid kingdom two very different sections. The first, of Granada. Its name stems from the the lower section of the circle, is the Arabic Hisn al-Muqlin (fortress of the walled precinct of rubblework, rein- pupils) and it was built on a steep slope forced by sandstone blocks, with alter- to protect the road that led to the Vega nating rectangular and semicircular de Granada. At many stages in frontier towers. The access gate-tower to the territory, it became the “The Shield of town is well preserved, with the coat of Granada” for the Nasrids, especially fol- arms and key; characteristic of Nasrid lowing the conquest of Alcalá la Real gates. The second precinct constitutes (1341) by the Castilian troops (Al- the fortress (alcazaba), made up fonso XI) and of the of semicircular and rectangular Castillo de Locubín, towers. The keep is worth see- when Yusuf I chose it ing, although in a ruinous as the encamp- state, and the cistern with a ment for the half barrel vault, made of Moorish forces. concrete and nearly two Between this date and metres thick.

The La Mota ☛ Castle

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The Encarnación church is located in the lowest part of the first precinct. It houses a painting of the Cristo del Paño, a Nazarene which attracts great devo- tion and which the village takes out on pilgrimages. The inhabitants of Moclín wipe the picture with a cloth to ask for his favours. It seems that this pilgrimage may have inspired certain passages of Lorca’s work, Yerma. Constructed over an old mosque by the Catholic Monarchs, The Malalmuerzos Cave is in the direc- the main chapel dates from tion of Tózar, an important Neolithic set- the mid 16th century and tlement and a natural protection to Cor- the work of Martín de culea, with its Palaeolithic hunting Bolívar. It was consider- scenes. Additionally, in Tózar there is an ably reformed enormous archaeological complex that following dam- covers an area of 1,000 m2, with dol- age inflicted in mens, anthropomorphous tombs exca- the Civil War. vated in the rock and practically all of Outside the walls and at the defenisve system used during the the beginning of the Christ- Civil War. ian village stands the 16th c. casa del An alternative excursion on the outskirts Pósito, the communal granary, attributed could lead us to the Tajos de la Hoz to Pablo de Rojas, which takes advantage (gorges) and from here, to Olivares. The of the slope in order to create two floors. road towards Tiena offers spectacular It has two Renaissance entrances, views of the Sierra Nevada, of la constructed in sandstone with Almijara and the , semicircular arches and Phillip and down the slopes, the olive II’s coat of arms above the groves stretch out as a prelude main one.The roof is a single to the lowlands of the Vega. slope towards the mill. Another attraction of Moclín, In the area surrounding Moclín is its cuisine; such as ‘la al- there are several watchtowers, boronía’, a dish made with or lookout towers, placed at chicken, garlic, almonds and strategic points, which made up the white beans, or the cachorreña control and defense system of the ter- soup and the San Antón stew. The ritory; the Porqueriza tower, Mingoandrés ‘rosquillos’ are made as in times past tower, the Solana and the Gallina towers. and contain no artificial ingredients.

The Casa de Moclín The Communal Granary ☛

☛ A 16th c. fountain The Fiesta of Cristo del Paño A General View

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Colomera

Going down through Tiena la Fragments of walls Baja and Olivares, one enters and towers can be seen at the remains the area of Granada around of the Castle, which the River Colomera. This town stands out on the stands in a narrow pass, with top of the hill, over- its narrow and steep streets looking the village. The Encarnación church set on a hillside slope that was built over an old mosque and was crowns the fortress. declared an historic-artistic monument in 1980. The style is of Granada and com- This old mediaeval fortress, associated bines Gothic, Renaissance and Mudejar with the defense of the Nasrid capital, is elements. It has three aisles with nine al- 25 kilometres from Granada. As its tars and a fine coffered ceiling. It hous- name, stemming from the Latin colum- es the painting of la Virgen de Belén by baria suggests, it was a Roman strong- Alonso Cano and a baptismal font. On hold. Under Arab domination it was the side door there is a coat of arms of called Qulumbayra and, as we are told by Archbishop Niño de Guevara, who was the 10th c. Ibn Hayyan, it was a fortress the instigator of this work. constructed by the Cordovan army to Near the village are the Niñas mill, the oppose Ibn Hafsun. Ibn al-Jatib mentions Era del Chopo and the bridge and Roman it as a hamlet in the Vega of Granada, be- road, which can be seen at a spot known ing the origin of the present village. It as the Molino de la Puente. was involved in a multitude of bellicose episodes and also functioned as the cap- ital’s pantry, providing it with corn and pork and game products. It was conquered by the Catholic Mon- archs in 1486. From that point on and until the complete fall of Granada, it was occupied by a Castilian garrison, which, curiously, took part in the expe- dition to assist Boabdil, who found him- self trapped in the Albaicín by his uncle, El Zagal.

☛ The Encarnación Church

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Pinos Puente

“With conversations at an im- Pinos Puente lies at 16 kms from the passe, Columbus said goodbye capital on flat land in the Vega and at the foot of the western slopes of the to his supporters in Santa Fe; Sierra Elvira. The River Cubillas runs …Later the Queen ordered that through the village. It was founded a a constable of the Court, with a very long time ago as is manifest in the relay of horses, ride after archaeological remains found in the Cerro de las Agujetas and Cerro de los Christopher Columbus and in- Infantes (the Ibero-Roman village of form him that, on the part of Illurco) and the caliphate city of Madinat Her Royal Highness, he was to be Ilbira. It has been called Pont-Binox, el ordered to return and to bring Puente de Pinos, Pinos de la Puente and, since the 23rd of February 1841, its name him back. The former found him has been Pinos Puente. some two leagues from Granada, The origin of this place may lie in a at the bridge called de Pinos… mediaeval hamlet, as it was an important she ordered that he know that irrigation zone and supplied Granada. Various skirmishes are referred to by the he should prepare an agreement chroniclers, such as the incursion by the promptly, and all the stores high constable, D. Álvaro de Luna and the should be made ready to enable meeting between Muhammad I and Christopher Columbus to under- Fernando III in 1242. Nevertheless Pinos Puente’s real fame lies in its relation to take his journey the Discovery of America. Queen Isabella and discovery.” ordered a search for

The Puente de Pinos ☛

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by a chapel, constructed in the 18th century and dedicated to Nuestra Señora de las Angustias. The main focus of a visit is the calle Real, which leads us to the Ayuntamiento (town hall) and the Plaza de la Iglesia. The Consolación Church is rectangular with three aisles, separated by columns with semicircular arches. The central nave and the Main Chapel are covered by coffered ceilings with an elevated Choir below. A tower stands on the righthand side. It dates from around 1631. In the 18th century it was widened on the Gospel side. There are important 17th c. sculp- Christopher Columbus, who was already tures and 19th c. paintings in its interior, on his way to France, his hopes dashed aswell as the 17th c. in his quest to receive the guarantee pulpit in polychromed he required to undertake his expedition, carved wood. and the encounter took place in Puente The 17th c. House de Pinos. of the Dukes of On the 25th April 1928, by Royal Decree, Abrantes is in His Majesty the King, Rey Don Alfonso the same square. XIII granted it the title of Township. The façade in- The Puente de Pinos is in the centre of cludes a semicir- the town and on the River Cubillas. It is a cular arch on pi- 10th c. construction of the period of the lasters and a coat Caliphate and is built over foundations of arms decorated dating from the Visigothic period. It has with vegetables, a castle three unequal arches, the centre one on the left and a coat of arms of Spain on being 9.80 m. high and the tallest. The the right, between two rampant lions. arches are Moorish, using bonded stone There are interesting trips to be made in and standstone blocks with parallel the area round Pinos Puente, above all headers. The arches stand on rounded for those who enjoy the countryside and cutwaters against the current and rural architecture. These are perfect square on the other side. A defensive places for cycling, although the nearby tower used to stand on one of them but Sierra Elvira also offers the opportunity it was destroyed in 1431 and substituted to practise abseiling and hang gliding.

☛ Olive groves and Cortijos The chapel on the bridge The Cortijo del Alitaje Purebred Arab horses ☛ Drying barns for Tobacco in the Vega The irrigation tank known as Las tres medias lunas

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Güevéjar

Set between hills of red mentioned by earth, planted with olive- Ibn al-Jatib asWabasar. trees, Güevéjar symbolizes In 1569 the town the resistance of a town to remained practically history and the setbacks of deserted, when the Morisco populace Nature. rebelled against the pragmatism of Phillip II, obliging the inhabitants to This agricultural village is situated to abandon their beliefs and customs. It the North of the Vega and in the foothills was repopulated in 1571. of the Sierra Arana. In the course of its The large and tree-lined Plaza de la history it has suffered two important Constitución is the focal point of a visit. earthquakes; the first was that of Lisbon Its principal edifice, the parish church (1755) and the second in 1884. The and the town hall are both in this square. position of the town had to be moved to The church was built in 1887, in neo- its present site because of these. classical style, with the tower and belfry Nervertheless, this area was occupied forming a steeple. from Antiquity, as an arrowhead from The triad of Mediterranean products, the 8th-7th c.BC and a Roman stone, bread, wine and oil are of good quality preserved in the Archaeological Museum in Güevéjar, which is also justifiably of Granada bear witness. known for its home produced pork Prior to the arrival of the Moors, the products. town is associated with the place called Ubexar. In the Nasrid peri- od, Güevéjar is

☛ The Parish Church

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Cogollos Vega

Situated at the extreme west walks and practise, potholing, of the Sierra Huétor Natural montaineering, abseiling and hang gliding. Park, between masses of A visit to Cogollos could holm oaks and gall oaks, its start in the Plaza del Llanete, white aspect below a peak, where the ayuntamiento gives it the look of a village in stands, and then go on to look for the parish church the Alpujarras. of the Anunciación, built in This village was another hamlet belong- the 17th c. over an old ing to the district of la Vega, together mosque. It houses an 18th c. baroque with other villages surrounding the city altarpiece and valuable images, such as of Granada (Alhendín, Alfacar, Víznar…). an ‘Inmaculada’ attributed to Alonso The hamlet of la Taucha, Lomilla de Cano. Vítar, Alcudia and el Pago de las Taulas Very nearby, in the Calle del Baño, at also existed within its boundaries. what corresponds to numbers 12 and 14, Cogollos was inhabited by Man from the 12th c. to 14th c. Moorish Baths can prehistoric times and some historians be seen. In the house at number 14, think it was probably the Roman there are three rooms inter-linked by Quqululus. Palaeolithic, Roman, Visigoth semicircular arches, typical of such and Arab remains have been found. The constructions, and covered by vaults remainder of its history has been with octagonal skylights. In number 12, closely related to that of Granada. the secondary rooms can be seen Given its geographical setting, the (lavatories, woodstore, boiler and oven). panoramic views are magnificent, above all from the Peñon de la Mata, which offers splendid views of the Sierra Nevada. A visit to the Atalaya Nazarí (Nasrid watchtower) and the Cueva del Agua (water cave) in neighbouring , is to be recommended. It is possible to take

The Church of the Anunciación ☛

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Alfacar

Its privileged position and the The canalization of this spring dates from purity of its waters, made this the 11th century. It was oval in shape and provided water to Granada for centuries. place one of the favourite Palaces, mosques and fortified buildings recreation spots of the Zirid kings. were constructed in the surrounding area They withdrew here specifically and, to-day, the remains of some of these to pass the Feast of the ‘Alaceres’, building still exist. The remains of the Arab Baths, which the autumnal grape harvest and were in use from the 13th c. to the 15th c., their ‘azahazcas’, fiestas and can be seen in a house situated in the merrymaking. Placeta del Baño, near the parish church. The remains of the two aisles and one of The first signs of the existence of a the brick vaults are still intact. settlement here, dating from the The Parish Church of the Asunción was Neolithic, are the large quantity of built in 1557; Mudejar in style and built of arcehaeological remains. However it is hewn stone. It is rectangular in shape and from the Zirid period (1010-1090) that we the main chapel is separated by a main acquire confirmation identifying it as a arch. Outside, stands a small tower, topped village, when al-Fajjar is called “the by an iron spire. It houses the 18th c. image village of the potter or the clays”. of ‘Jesús Nazareno’ by Joé Risueño. Al-Jatib and Ibn Battuta (14th c. & 15th c.) Alfacar is one of the access points to the talk about it, as much as a place of Sierra de Huétor Natural Park. recreation, as of a battleground, towards The local bread is of great quality and the end of the Reconquest. On the 22nd flavour and has brought a lot of fame to of December 1491, the “Capitulation of Alfacar. Our tour could end with a visit Alfacar” was signed by the Muslim to a Morisco bakery . inhabitants. Phillip II’s policy of expulsion of the Moriscos (1579) also affected this town, which came to be repopulated by Castilians. The poet, Federico García Lorca was assassinated in one of the ravines between Alfacar and Víznar. One of the surprises on this route is the Fuente Grande or Aynadamar Spring.

The Parish ☛ Church of the Asunción

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Víznar

“Its surroundings (Granada) after by well-to-do families from cannot be compared with any- Granada, as a place to have a second home and to pass the summer months. It where else in the Universe; it was also chosen by the archbishops of constiutes and area of 40 miles, Granada, as is evident from the Palacio incised by the famous Chennil del Cuzco, which was built at the orders or Genil and many other rivers. of Archbishop Moscoso y Peralta. Víznar, which capitulated in 1491, was one Gardens, orchards, meadows, of the last towns to fall into the hands of castles and vineyards surround the Catholic Monarchs. It suffered the Granada on all sides.” rebellion of the Moriscos with virulence Ibn Battuta and, following their expulsion in the 16th century, it was partially repopulated. In This town is situated very near to the 1936, its history became definitively city of Granada (at around 7 kms.) and in related to the poet and playwright, the foothills of the Sierra de Huétor. Its Federico García Lorca, who was shot origins are Moorish and its foundation between Alfacar and Víznar. An olive tree very much related to the piping of its now grows in this spot. waters from the spring at Fuente de The Acequia de Aynadamar (irrigation Aynadamar to the Albaicín in Granada, channels) flows to the north of the vil- by means of the construction of a series lage and the old cistern came into being of irrigation channnels. Due to its as a result of its construction. position, its benign climate and The original system of ir- the purity of its waters, rigation, pertaining to itbecame a place sort the period of

Interior of the Palace of Cuzco ☛

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al-Andalus is still works, although of its original decorative elements, it has been reformed, given such as the frescoes and wood- that its use has been continu- en doors with gold fittings. ous down to the present day. The upper gallery on the A visit to this town remains eastern façade is decorated concentrated round the with murals in the Italian Plaza de la Constitución or manner. One of the most at- Plaza Noguera. The Ayun- tractive elements are the tamiento, the parish church gardens, which date from the and the Palacio del Cuzco bor- same period as the palace. der it and are some of the best Magnolias, cypresses and ba- examples of domestic architecture nana trees, cohabit with fountains in Víznar. The Palace of Cuzco was built and many other water elements. as a summer residence in 1795, at the or- The parish church, Nuestra Señora del ders of Don Juan Manuel de Moscoso y Pilar, is 16th century and is possibly built Peralta, who had been Archbishop of Cuz- on the site of an old mosque. It is rec- co and later, Bishop of Granada. Together tangular with two naves. It had an altar- with its garden, of clearly Italian influ- piece by Pedro Machuca which was ence, it forms an exceptional complex. burnt by the Moriscos. Declared a national monument, it is at- As it is so near, it is worth going to the tached to the parish chuurch. Its layout of Visitors Centre and the Sierra de Huétor 2,500 habitable metres has not changed National Park. There is a mirador there and is divided into a ground floor, first which commands magnificent views of floor and top floor. It also still has many the Sierra Nevada.

The Sierra de Huétor National Park This group of sierras of the Baetic System has a harsh ap- pearance and is full of ravines and peaks, chasms and streams. The Buitero mount is the only section that is over 1,800 m, so because of its average height, the sierra is only classified as “half moun- tain”. It has abundant water, holm oak forests, pines which have been planted to repopulate, gall oaks and Mediter- ranean scrub. The fauna includes wild boar, moun- tain cats, stone martens and genets; among the birds of prey, the com- mon ratter is most apparent. The Park covers an area of 12,000 ha. and is crossed by the A-92 motorway. The visitors’ centre for the park is located in Víznar. A portrait of Federico García Lorca The Aynadamar ☛

☛ The porticoed atrium of the Palace of Cuzco irrigation channel The countryside round Víznar

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Granada

Al-Saqundi wrote in the 8th cen- present city of Granada. Inhabited since tury that Granada is the Damas- the Bronze Age, Granada has been Iberian and Roman but it is, nevertheless, univer- cus of al-Andalus, a feast for sally associated with the splendour of al- the eyes, rapture for the soul. It Andalus. From 711, the first Muslim incur- has an impregnable citadel, with sions encountered a population estab- high walls and splendid build- lished oustide the walls of Illiberris, called Garnata al Yahud, the town of the Jews, ings. It is distinctive for the pe- which would give its name to the city. In culiarity of its river, which flows the 11th c., the capital was moved to its for- through the houses, baths, mer site, between the Darro and the Genil, squares, exterior and interior Hisn Garnata. The Battle of las Navas de Tolosa (1212) marked the end of Almohad mills and gardens. domination and the territory of al-Andalus Its privileged position, between the was reduced to the area surrrounding Mediterranean coast and the Upper Granada, where the Nasrid dynasty as- Guadalquivir, between the Levante and sumed power, being founded by Muham- Lower Andalusia, a crossroads of history, mad Ibn Yusuf Ibn Nasr. It soon took con- its unique landscape, the contrast be- trol of Jaén and Porcuna and annexed tween the peaks of the Sierra Nevada and Almería and Málaga. Granada reached its the subtropical environment of the zenith under the Nasrids. In 1492, the coastal areas, have collabo- Catholic Monarchs rated with the different civilizations and crystalized in the

The Comares ☛ Tower

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From the summit of the Albaicín, the Justice. At the end of one of the streets, slopes run down sharply to the Calderería the Puerta del Vino (Wine Gate) gives way Nueva, full of shops and tearooms, which to the Plaza de los Aljibes (cisterns), end in the Calle de Elvira, a narrow street which is where the visits begin. On the which connects the gate of the same one side stands the Palace of Charles V, name with the area round the Plaza Nue- a Renaissance building designed by Pedro va. Halfway along this are the remains of Machuca, the interior of which house the the Maristán, a former hospital and later Fine Arts Museum. The Alcazaba stands Mint, founded by Muhammad V in 1367 and on the other side, a fortress with three various ecclesiatical buildings, such as mighty cubic towers. To the the churches of San José and San Juan south, by the Torre de de los Reyes. On the northern side of the la Sultana, is the mount, the Cuesta del Chapiz descends to the 17th c. garden of the course of the River Darro, lined by the Adarves, domi- substantial residences, like the Casa del nated by the Vela Chapiz and the palacio de los Córdova. tower, the lookout The road the goes on to Sacromonte, post of the Alham- made their entrance into the city, putting where the legendary cave district, which From this point, the ascent to the Alham- bra. At its feet an end to the splendour of al-Andalus. so much attracted Romantic toursim, bra is via the Cuesta de los Gomérez to stands the gate to A walk through the city’s history might start spreads out nearby. the gate of the Granadas. At the time of the 11th c. upper sec- at one of the main access points in the city The course of the Darro runs parallel to the its construction in the 13th c., when the tion of the fortress. wall, the Elvira Gate. It is mentioned in the Paseo de los Tristes and its prolongation, Kingdom of Granada was ruled by the The Royal Nasrid Residence occupies the 9th century, although the main part of the the Carrera del Darro, leads to the Plaza Nasrid dynasty, its founder decided to heart of the Alhambra. The section dedi- construction is 11th century. A few steps Nueva. The passer-by will come across build his residence in the same place cated to public life and government, within, the ascent commences up a series of points of interest; the as the Alcazaba (citadel). He the Palace of Comares, is the Cuesta de Alhacaba, along Convent of San Bernardo, rebuilt the fortress and distinguished from the the side of which one can the Casa de , seat started work on the private area, the appreciate the remains of of the Arhaeological palace, which would Palace of the Lions. the 11th c. Zirid walls and Museum, the Convent of be continued by Access to these the Monaita Gate. Almost Santa Catalina de Zafra, his decendants. palaces is domi- at the end of the rise, on the al-Andalus house of The principal part nated by the the left, there is the Calle Zafra, the buttress of the of the construc- courts of the Larga de San Cristóbal, which Tableros Gate and, at the tion corresponds Madraza de los ends in a mirador alongside the end, the Bañuelo, the old Moor- to Yusuf I and his Príncipes and that of church of the same name; an unri- ish baths of the Nogal, inside the son, Muhammad V. The Machuca. Through a re- valled spot from where there are splendid house standing at number 31. The Carrera wood, on what was the cessed door, one passes into views over the city. The Albaicín, the heart del Darro ends where the street widens, at citadel of the Alhambra, begins upon the Mexuar, where the Council of Min- of the Moorish town, stands before the the Plaza de Santa Ana and Plaza Nueva, passing through the Gate of the isters would meet. Separated by a patio, visitor’s eyes; a network of narrow streets which is dominated by the Royal Granadas. On the opposing hill stand the the lavish façade of the Palace of Co- and rises, with lots of churches standing on Chancery, a Renaissance masterpiece, and Torres Bermejas, a fortress constructed mares, is in turn built the sites of former mosques, squares and the church of Santa Ana, which replaced around 1240 by Alhamar. The roads lead around a patio known cisterns. Beyond San Cristóbal stands San the Almanzora mosque in 1537. on to Charles V’s fountain and the Gate of as the Patio de la Al- Bartolomé, a church with an impressive berca or, de los Ar- minaret, transformed into a belfry. rayanes. On the Descending from the Albaicín, we cross the northside stands a Arco de las Pesas, an entrance in a fortified gallery of seven recess covered by vaults, which was built by arches, which act as a the Zirid kings in the 11th century. Another portico to the Hall of la Bar- important monument is the Dar-al-horra ca. A threshold precedes the Hall of Palace, a Nasrid palatial residence. Along- Comares, or the Hall of the Ambassadors. side are the convent of Santa Isabel la The Palace of the Lions is built around an- Real and San Miguel Bajo. other prestigious patio, with 124 columns,

A typical street in the Albaicín district A Morisco house ☛ A ceramic plate in the style of Granada The Palatine sector of the Alhambra ☛ The Elvira Gate The Palace of Charles V The Patio de los Leones (court of the lions)

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each with different capitals and guarded part of one of the Nasrid royal family’s by a fountain with twelve lions, the origins ‘cármenes’. The latter has marvellous ce- of which are suspected to be 11th century. ramic and plasterwork decoration topped The central halls of Abencerrajes and Dos by a wooden roof. The Hermitage of St. Hermanas, have a similar distribution, Sebastian, near to the river, was a former with Mozarab vaults. Other rooms which Muslim rábida or oratory and the refined communicate with these are the Hall of palace of the Alcázar del Genil, was the the Ajimeces, with the Lindaraja mirador property of the Nasrid Queens. Both these and the Hall of the Kings. The gardens of buildings were constructed at the end of El Partal extend to the east, with a section the Almohad period. of walls with various towers: los Picos, In the much lauded spot known as Ay- Cadí, de la Cautiva and de las Infantas. nadamar, on the outskirts, stands the The palace and the gardens of Monastery of the Cartuja. It is a fine artis- the Generalife are opposite tic complex with an important Sacristy, a the Alhambra. One goes masterpiece of the An- into the building via a pa- stalls were situated, and which was also a To the east of the Puerta Real, the hillsides dalusian Baroque. tio, in whose interior is cloth and spicemarket and a centre for and running down to the River Genil are The memory of the famous Patio de la fairs. The Archbishop’s palace is at the occupied by the Mauror, being the former Federico García Acequia, the sala Regia, back of this plaza, as is the Alcaicería, Jewish quarter, the refined ‘carmen’, Lorca is pre- the gardens and the orig- which was once the centre of the silk trade. which is the Museum of the Rodríguez served at the inal Escalera del Agua. The Madraza is in calle Oficios and was a Acosta Foundation, and the Antequeruela, Huerta de San Between the Puerta Real (Roy- centre of studies founded by Yusuf I in where the Muslims, who had been dis- Vicente, be- al Gate) and the Puerta del Triunfo, one can 1349. The Catholic Monarchs turned it into placed following the conquest of Ante- tween the city observe the spectacle of the mixture of a Chapter House. The oratory is part of quera, installed themselves. Also, the and the Vega, cultures. Al-Andalus, Renaissance and the original Moorish building. The Manuel de Falla Auditorium and, at the and, at 19 kilome- Baroque blend to offer the visitor a Royal Chapel stands opposite, end, the Carmen de los Mártires, the large tres from the capital, combination of art and history. built in late Gothic style, and at- space known as the Campo del Príncipe, in the house at Fuente Va- The Corral de Carbón is near to tached to the Cathedral and the the Realejo and lower down, San Matías. queros, where he was born in 1898. the Plaza del Carmen. Its affected Lonja de Mercaderes. The Cathe- Apart from churches, convents and no- A most special excursion is the one that façade, with a pointed horseshoe dral was built, at the express table mansions, like those of San Cecilio, goes to the heights of the Sierra Nevada, arch, gives way to a cobbled patio wish of Isabella the Catholic, on Santo Domingo or the Casa de los Tiros Solair, or Snowy Mountains, with its peaks with galleries and aisles, which served the site where the Great Mosque stood. and the Casa del Padre Suárez, there is al- of the Veleta or the Mulhacén, at 3,448 m., as lodgings to travellers and merchants. On Construction began in 1523 and it is a so some evidence of al-Andalus in the 13th the highest in the Península. At 36 kilome- the other side of the calle Reyes Católicos, masterpiece of Spanish Classicism. The c. remains of a Muslim ‘rábida’, or convent, tres from Granada one can enjoy the Sier- is the calle del Zacatín, which is a clothes main façade is Baroque, designed by Alon- in the Casa de los Girones, for example, or ra Nevada ski station and its complex at market. They converge in the Plaza de Bib- so Cano. The interior is Renaissance in ori- the splendid Cuarto Real de Santo Domin- Pradollano, a paradise for those interest- Rambla, where the Moorish fish and meet gin on plane Gothic and the main chapel is go, a palace-cum-tower, which formed ed in Winter Sports. the work of Diego de Siloé. Important buildngs in this area are the old University, created by Charles V in 1526, and the church of los Santos Justo y Pas- tor, being the former Majadalbecy mosque. Moving towards the calle Gran Capitán, one comes across the San Jerónimo monastery and the hospital and church of San Juan de Dios, with its magnificent Baroque cloister. The Campo del Triunfo is on the opposite side of the Gran Vía, an area of gardens which overlook the majestic Roy- al Hospital, which was founded by the Catholic Monarchs in 1504 and is now the main building of the University of Granada.

The Generalife Fountain The façade of the University ☛ The symbol of Granada Federico García Lorca’s House and Museum ☛ The Alcaicería Peaks of the Sierra Nevada Tha Coat Arms of the Madraza

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