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Guidelines on Thai Travel / Etiquette

The Monarchy The monarchy is deeply revered by the and strict customs towards it are observed. Never speak disrespectfully of the Royal family; to do so is a criminal offence. Similarly don’t stand on runaway coins or lick stamps in public both feature images of the King. His Majesty King Bhumipol is celebrating the 60t h anniversary of his accession to the throne this year and there are therefore a larger than usual number of public portraits of His Majesty and HM Queen Sirikit.

The National Anthem is played daily at 0800 and 1800 in public places such as the skytrain walkways and cinemas and simultaneously broadcast on television and radio.

Religion/ Ethnicity 75% of the population are ethnically Thai, 14% are ethnically Chinese with small but significant other populations including Khmer, Indian etc. 95% of the population are Theravada Buddhists. Islam is the next major religion (3.8% of the population, most of whom are concentrated in the south). No home or business would be complete without a ‘spirit house’ on the premises, where daily offerings of food, flowers and other gifts are made. Shorts, sandals or exposed shoulders are not acceptable if visiting temples / the Royal Palace however it is not necessary to cover your head and any hats/shoes should be removed before entering a wats main sanctuary. One should step over, not on, the raised threshold of rooms containing Buddha images as this is considered to be where the soul resides. Whispered, brief conversations are acceptable.

Business hours The academic year is as follows:

Semester Tertiary Thai Schools* Semester 1 begins early June mid May Semester 2 ends early October October Semester 2 begins early November November Semester 2 ends early March mid March University Month University examinations October, February University entrance examinations April Entrance exam results early May *International schools generally follow a Western academic year, ie. from August or September to June or July, usually on a semester basis with a break around Christmas/New Year, and a shorter break for Easter/Songkran holidays

Some English medium / International university programmes run on a Western academic year divided into two 16 or 18 week semesters. Some universities also run a summer session from mid April – early June.

Thais’ enjoy a number of public holidays in addition to the normal Christmas & New Years Day. (Chinese New Year (late Jan / early Feb) is observed by some private businesses, as are the major Christian holidays but neither are official holidays). Buddhist related holidays can vary depending on the lunar calendar and are generally one day events the other main fixed holidays are as follows: mid April ­ Songkran 1 May ­ National Labour day 12 August ­ HM The Queens Birthday (also national mothers day) 23 October – Day 5 December ­ H.M. the King’s birthday 10 December – Constitution Day See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Public_holidays_by_country for full details Most offices open from 9 am to 5 pm, Monday to Friday, except on public holidays. Government offices normally open from 8.30 am to 4.30 pm. General banking hours are Monday to Friday 9.30 am to 3.30 pm. Many stores open 12 hours a day, seven days a week.

What to wear Thais dress smartly at all times, and visitors are advised to over­dress if in doubt. Thais are scrupulously neat people, and conscious of cleanliness and personal appearance. A visitor who is in any way slovenly in appearance will give a bad impression Neat conservative clothing (suit, long­sleeved shirt and tie for men / smart casual for women) is recommended for all meetings. Elsewhere dress is less formal and “tourist dress” is tolerated but since Thai's judge you on your clothing and accessories keep it modest in order to avoid loosing face. Light, loose cotton clothing is best.

Health Visitors to should wear mosquito repellent at all times, especially during daylight when the dengue­carrying mosquito is most active. Light coloured clothes, long sleeves and long trousers are also recommended. All major cities and towns are malaria­free, but if you plan to travel to rural areas, it may be advisable to take anti­malarial tablets. You are recommended to seek medical advice regarding this before you travel. No specific vaccinations required.

The following private hospitals and clinics in are amongst those that can be recommended:

Bumrungrad Hospital, Sukhumvit 3 Tel : (02) 667 1000 or (02) 253 0250­6 Samitivej Hospital, Sukhumvit 49 Tel : (02) 392 0011 – 9 Bangkok Nursing Home, 9 Convent Road Tel : (02) 266 5444­8 or (02) 233 2610 ­ 9

If you wish to consult a doctor the usual way is to visit a hospital or clinic, and the quickest way to do so is to take a cab. Most major hospitals and clinics usually have doctors who speak English. If you need advice, contact your host, the British Council, or your hotel reception. Most hospitals and clinics take the major credit cards. Pharmacies are usually well stocked and can be found in most shopping areas and department stores. Branches of Boots are present in various locations in Bangkok.

Please also see latest update on the FCO travel advice (www.fco.gov.uk).

Climate Thailand enjoys a tropical climate with 3 distinct seasons – • summer from March through May, • rainy (southwest monsoon) with plenty of sunshine from June to September and • cool (northeast monsoon) from October through February. Heavy rain can make it difficult to get to destinations on time. The average annual temperature is 28 0C (83 o F), with relatively little seasonal difference e.g. 30 0C in Bangkok in April to 25 0C in December. Drink plenty of water, available from hotel etc.

Currency Most foreign and traveller’s cheques are easily changed at banks, hotels or changers and all major credit cards are accepted. ATMs are widespread except in the most rural areas. Current exchange rate aprox: £1 = 65 Baht. There are 100 satangs in 1 baht see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thai_baht for explanations of denominations and pictures of the . Tipping is not a usual practice in Thailand although it is becoming more common. Taxi drivers do not require a tip but the gesture is appreciated. Fixed prices are the norm in department stores, but at most other places bargaining is to be expected. Generally you can obtain a final figure of between 10­40% lower than the original asking price. Much depends on your skills and the shopkeeper's mood. But remember, Thais appreciate good manners and a sense of humour. With patience and a broad smile, you will not only get a better price, you'll also enjoy shopping as an art.

Electricity The electric system is 220 Volt AC (50 cycles). Sockets vary but are mostly two pin.

Getting Around When you leave the customs area and enter the Arrivals Hall, turn left towards the exit (right is for group tours only). Experienced visitors may wish to use the official Public Taxi service, whose desk is clearly marked, just outside the exit from the Arrivals Hall. These taxis belong to various franchises, the drivers do not always speak English, taxis do not normally have rear seat belts, and standards of driving vary. If you use the public taxi service, join the queue at the Public Taxi desk (where English is spoken), state your destination and collect a voucher to give to the driver. A taxi driver from the queue will then be assigned to you. Make sure the taximeter is switched on (red 35) when leaving. It will be quicker if you ask him to use the “highway” (expressway or tollway), but you should pay the toll charges (about 100 baht). When you reach your destination, you pay the driver the amount shown on the meter normally around 300 Baht, plus an airport extra fee of 50 Baht. Please have small change ready, as the driver may not have change for large notes.

Alternatively you can arrange for the hotel to send a driver or there is a Thai Limousine service, whose desk is clearly marked in the Arrivals Hall. At the desk, state your destination, make your payment and collect a receipt. The price to central Bangkok should be between 700 and 1200 Baht. You do not make any payment to the driver, except for Expressway toll fees up to 100 Baht total to the centre

Traffic in Bangkok can be dreadful and although taxis are cheap, drivers rarely understand written or spoken English. It is strongly recommended that you get written directions in Thai with a map and carry the phone number of where you are going. On long journeys in the city centre it is often quicker to get the skytrain or new metro http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bangkok_Skytrain to the end of the line and then take a cab.

Airport is payable at the airport tax counters next to the passport control entrance. The cost is currently 500 Baht for international flights. Please have Thai Baht with you for this since they will take CASH ONLY, and no other currency is accepted.

Local time GMT + 7 hours.

Customs & Doing Business In Thailand, the head is considered to be the high, sacred part of the body, and the feet the lowest. Touching someone’s head, even a child’s, is considered disrespectful and should be avoided as should pointing your feet towards someone or a Buddha image when sat. Sit with feet on the floor or legs crossed and feet downwards.

Thai society is hierarchal both within the family and outside with social relationships defined as one person being superior to the other. Parents are superior to their children, teachers to their students, and bosses to their subordinates. Therefore when Thais meet a stranger, they will immediately try to place you within a hierarchy so they know how you should be treated. This is often done by asking questions which may be seen as very personal in other cultures, similarly Thais can sometimes be quite frank when making comments about a persons size or appearance whom they know in a much more frank way than we are used to. Conversely public displays of affection between members of the opposite sex are socially unacceptable but it is quite common for members of the same sex to touch or hold hands with each other or for you to be steered to a taxi or around a room by your Thai host holding your elbow.

The traditional greeting is a ‘wai’. This is a prayer­like gesture, with the palms pressed together and the tips of your fingers level with your nose – the neutral position. The higher the wai the more respect is being shown. The person who is junior in age or status is normally the first one to offer the wai which is reciprocated by the more senior person generally with their hands raised to somewhere around chest height. If there is a social distance between two people, the wai will not be returned i.e. do not wai taxi drivers, waiters etc but a smile is much appreciated. Generally one should return the same greeting as your Thai host or business colleague: if he extends his hand in a handshake do the same; if he wais, then you may do the same, however a bow or nodded head is equally acceptable if you are unsure how much to wai. It is common for Thais to wai public images of the Royal Family or spirit houses, westerners are not expected to do the same but should show respect nonetheless. Never walk in front of someone praying.

The general title for men and women is ‘Khun’. ‘Khunying’ is similar but indicates a higher social status equivalent to Dame. Thais normally use only their first name or nickname in conversation so introductions would start “can I introduce Khun Nikki…” Ajarn is a similar title but meaning teacher/professor. ‘Dear Khun ’ would be a polite form of address in e­mails/letters to contacts.

The value of “face” cannot be underestimated. Asians have long memories, and any loss of face will be remembered and can affect business transactions. Face can also affect a whole group ­ it measures the social standing of the person within the group­ and the social standing of the group. If one person loses face, the whole group loses face, so it is much deeper and stronger than a simple embarrassment. The following are a few examples or ways to lose face: doing or saying anything which could cause a member of the group to be left out or points out the errors of elders, parents, teachers, or bosses. Criticizing someone or pointing out mistakes or errors in public, especially if a junior. Making someone feel embarrassed, insulted, humiliated, shamed and inferior. Asking questions of a person in a superior position, or asking for clarification, especially if this was done in public. The person who was asked would lose face because it would be as if he/she did not understand the materials, instructions, and directions. Showing anger by shouting or swearing at someone, throwing temper tantrums or losing your cool. Pointing or shaking a forefinger at someone, especially in his or her face, saying no or refusing someone outright. Open confrontation, conflict or disagreement.

Thais have a great sense of fun ‘Sanuk’ and are a very smiley nation hence Thailand’s reputation as the “land of smiles”. One should remember however that because of face a smile and laughter can express both happiness and also be used to mask shame, embarrassment, sadness or hurt feelings. e.g. You are in a restaurant and the waiter spills water on you accidentally. The waiter apologies profusely but hides his embarrassment with laughter/a smile that is hidden by his hands. What he his saying behind the laughter is please forgive me for my clumsiness. Conversely a show of anger (or other emotions) signals a person who is out of control and therefore, inferior. One who cannot control himself, and one reveals innermost thoughts and feelings is not to be trusted.

Thais prefer doing business with people they respect. Relationships develop slowly and do not flourish after one meeting; it may take several meetings. Always be respectful and courteous when dealing with others and respect the hierarchal structure of those you are meeting. Also be aware of non­verbal communication which can be more important than verbal communication as it is difficult for most Thais to say no, for reasons of face. Similarly watch your body language and facial expressions, as these will be believed over your words.

English is generally understood by the business community but in meetings, unless you are sure of your audience, it is advisable to speak slowly and clearly, and avoid complicated speech. When giving lectures, bear in mind that the quality of visual aids used here is normally high, especially in national or international meetings. Clear well­produced visual aids (usually PowerPoint presentations or high­quality OHTs) will be much appreciated, and you are advised to check in advance what would be expected. Audiences often insist speakers use microphones, even in comparatively small venues, so be prepared for this too. Business cards are given out after the initial handshake and greeting. In theory, you should give your card to the most senior person first. Use your right hand to deliver your business card so the writing faces the recipient. Look at a business card for a few seconds before placing it on the table or in a business card case. Thai hosts often like to present a small gift to visitors, e.g. after a formal meeting of after a meal. The gift will be beautifully wrapped, and you should normally open it immediately, and express your warm thanks. When you are presented with a gift, it is appropriate to offer a similar small, well­presented gift from your own country, in return. Normally you should not initiate gift­giving, but wait until you are given one first: you may embarrass your host if you present a gift and he does not have a gift for you in return. The exception is when you are making a visit to a senior official, when it may be appropriate for you to present a small official gift.

Useful addresses The British Council Bangkok 254 Chulalongkorn 64, Siam Square, Phayathai Bangkok 10330 Tel : (66 2) 652 5480­9 (66 2) 252 6136­8 Fax: (66 2) 253 5312 Web: www.britishcouncil.or.th

The British Embassy, Bangkok Wireless Road Bangkok 10330 Tel : (66 2) 305 8333 Fax : (66 2) 254 9578 Website : www.britishemb.or.th

Nikki Padget April 2006