wreck rap

Text by Cesare Balzi Photos by Michele Favaron and Mauro Pazzi Translation by Peter Symes Edited by Catherine GS Lim

In the Bay of Vlora (Valona), Albania, rest- ing at a depth of 35m, lies one of the largest and most impressive wrecks in the whole Adriatic, that of the Italian hospital ship Po, sunk by British torpedo bombers on 14 March 1941. In the darkness of the night, the attacking pilots were not aware that the ship was a hospital ship. In the attack that ensued, 21 on board the The Italian ship died, including three nurses; one of whom was Mussolini’s daughter, Edda Ciano, who was working Hospital Ship Po for the Red Cross. MAURO PAZZI

The background Expedition in Albanian waters. The out there so many years ago. “The Ciano Mussolini, the daughter and wounded during the Second co, quite close to the coast. Thus, I am on the coast of the Bay of window of our hotel room over- Countess shipwrecked right on this of the Italian dictator who was World War. it would be possible the following Valona, together with Massimil- looks the nearby beach; and as beach,” an Albanian friend tells travelling on the hospital ship Po The Po arrived in the bay of Va- day to transfer the wounded on iano Canossa, Michele Favaron, my gaze wanders across the bay, me. “Italian soldiers arrived, they as a Red Cross nurse. The Po was lona on the evening of 14 March board to ambulances and trucks Edoardo Pavia, Mauro Pazzi and I cannot help but imagine the got her into a truck and took her one of the 22 white ships used 1941 and moored about a mile from the barracks of military hospi- Igli Pustina for the third IANTD historical hospital ship Po sitting away." The countess was Edda to repatriate sick, shipwrecked from the mouth of the River Sec- tal no. 403, which was located on

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Historical photos of Po (top and left), which served as a hospital ship in WWI and WWII; Fairey Swordfish torpedo bombers (top center) with HMS Ark Royal (far left) circa 1939 the hill behind us. By order of the During the ensuing turmoil, a Command of Marina di Valona, lifeboat capsized, drowning two the hospital ship was not illuminat- Red Cross nurses while a third lost ed by light during the night, as the her life trying to save them. Ten lights would have made it possible minutes after the torpedo struck, for British reconnaissance planes the ship sank, leaving only the to identify the other ships moored main mast, which for years indi- in the bay. cated the exact point of sinking, of eight boilers and two engines based at Pula at the tip of the Shortly after 11 o'clock that above water. which could propel the vessel at Istrian Peninsula, where she was evening, five British torpedo air- the decent speed of 17 knots. used as a barracks ship for the planes from a base on the Greek Wien, Vienna, Po. U-boat crews of the Kaiserliche island of Paramythia made it The ship was launched on 4 Marine base in the Istrian port. across the Karaburuni Peninsula March 1911 by the Lloyd Austrian On 16 February 1916, after the On the night between 31 Oc- mountain range on the other side shipyard in Trieste, then part of outbreak of the First World War, it tober and 1 November 1918, the of the bay of Valona without be- the Austro-Hungarian Empire, was requisitioned by the Kaiserli- Wien, moored inside the port of ing intercepted. and named Wien (Vienna) for che und Königliche Kriegsmarine, Pula, became the target in an as- As it reached the sea, a torpe- the Austrian capital. Like her sister the Hapsburg Navy, and trans- sault by the Italian . UK GOVERNMENT / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / PUBLIC DOMAIN do was unleashed from a Sword- ship, the Helouan, the Wien was a formed into a hospital ship. In this Two special forces officers, fish torpedo bomber under the luxurious and fast steamer of 7,289 capacity, it was used for a few Raffaele Rossetti and Raffaele bus Unitis, an Austro-Hungarian did not reveal that he had placed command of Lieutenant Michael gross tons, 135m long and 16m months until, on 29 June 1916, she Paolucci, using an underwater , of the mines on the hull. Torrens-Spence. It hit the hospital wide. It was used for passenger ran aground and damaged her vehicle called mignatta, which Tegetthoff class. When the mines exploded, ship on the starboard side. In the transport on the route from Trieste propellers, after which she was re- was akin to riding a torpedo, After placing mines on the bat- the Viribus Unitis capsized and matter of a few minutes, the Po to Alexandria in Egypt. It had cab- turned to her owners, the Austrian managed to make their way tleship, Rosetti was discovered sank with heavy loss of life. After began to tilt, so the order was giv- ins for 185 first-class passengers, Lloyd for repairs. past the barriers and obstructions and captured. He informed his placing the charges, the manned en to abandon ship and launch 61 in second class and 54 in third On 7 December 1917, she was protecting the port and used captors that the ship was about torpedo was scuttled, activating the lifeboats. class. The engine system consisted requisitioned once more and limpet mines to sink the SMS Viri- to sink but was not believed as he its self-destruction mechanism.

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THIS PAGE: Interior and exterior views of the wreck of the Italien hospital ship Po, Valona Bay, Albania

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MAURO PAZZI

Before exploding, the manned classified not as a hospital ship but tablished by the Geneva Conven- torpedo had come to rest near as some sort of intermediary infir- tion: white hull and superstructure, the Wien, and its explosion mary ship. The Italian government green belt interrupted by red caused the steamer to sink. wanted to take full advantage of crosses on the sides and the fun- Refloated and repaired in 1919, every single journey from Naples nels. the steamer was returned to her to Massawa, Ethiopia, by having it After working on the Libyan former owner who, since Trieste carry the soldiers and ammunition front, from Tripoli and Benghazi, had become part of Italy follow- on the outward journey and em- to repatriate the wounded of the ing the dissolution of the Austro- barking the wounded and sick on North African campaign, in Feb- Hungarian Empire, had changed the return journey. Hospital ships, ruary 1941, she was sent to the its name to (Società anonima di which were afforded protection Lower Adriatic to provide assis- Navigazione) Lloyd Triestino. It and had to be painted white tance to the wounded from the was registered under the Naples with green bands and red cross- Greek-Albanian front. Maritime Compartment, with the es, could not be used to carry Italianised name of Vienna, and healthy troops and supplies. The sinking returned to its previous functions After the colonial war, it was The legendary British 815th squad- as a steamer in 1921, on the Tri- returned to Lloyd Triestino, re- ron flying Swordfish biplane torpe- este - Venice - Brindisi - Alexandria named Po and returned to civil do bombers were transferred from route to Egypt. service. The last years of peace the aircraft carrier HMS Illustrious passed until following Italy’s entry to the airfield on the Greek island Colonial war and WWII into the Second World War on of Paramythia near the Albanian Then, in 1935, with the outbreak 21 November 1940, it was again border on 12 March 1941. Their or- of war in Ethiopia, it was first char- requisitioned by the Italian Royal ders were to carry out raids on the tered and then requisitioned by Navy, which this time designated ports of Valona and Durazzo, and the Italian Navy for the transport it as a hospital ship. It was painted the Italian military bases of Berat of the wounded and sick, but according to the guidelines es- and Tirana.

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The Best Diving on the Coral Sea & Great Barrier Reef! Dive with giant potato cod, explore deep walls, witness shark action at Osprey Reef.

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THIS PAGE: Divers explore the interior of the Italian hospital ship Po Minke Whale Season! June-July Unique Opportunity on the Great Barrier Reef. At 9:15 p.m. on 14 March, the nearby ships, which were legiti- www.mikeball.com/minke Swordfish were each armed with mate targets, would have been a 730kg torpedo. They passed, at made visible too. Therefore, the 10,000ft of altitude, the mountain Marine Command gave orders to chain south of the bay of Vlora and obscure it, making it indistinguish- New Special Expeditions! reached the sea, thus seeing the able from normal transport vessels. Check out our website for details. Italian navy and merchant fleet vessels at anchor in the harbour. Sitting target Painted in white, with green On 14 March 1941, the night was bands on the sides and large cross- clear and moonlit. Descending to es on the funnels, always illumi- the altitude of 5,000ft after pass- nated and recognisable during the ing the mountains of the Karabu- night, the Po hospital ship enjoyed runi Peninsula, Lieutenant Michael the protection of the norms of Torrens-Spence, as he would de- humanitarian law. The international scribe later in his report, managed Simon Mitchell © agreements—the Hague Conven- to identify a quite visible but unil- tion 1906 and Geneva 1907—fore- luminated target and launched a saw that in order to guarantee the torpedo. nighttime safety of hospital ships, At 11:15 p.m., the Po was hit by these should be completely illumi- the torpedo on the starboard side, nated. and following the explosion, a large A ship illuminated in the dark- hole opened that caused the ship Phone: +61 7 4053 0500 ness could, however, also serve as to sink so quickly that it prompted www.mikeball.com a beacon for enemy aircraft. If the the commander to immediately Email: [email protected] Fax: +61 7 4031 5470 Po had been lit up that night, the give the order to abandon ship. Visit: 3 Abbott Street, Cairns. Queensland 4870 Australia

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THIS PAGE: Dive team members of the expedition shed light on artifacts on the wreck of the Po; Diver at anchor on the Po (below)

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MAURO PAZZI

Just two minutes after the torpedo wreck has remained in the bay of the ship stationary at anchor. On hit, the sea water began to enter Valona, less than a mile from the the starboard side, Maximilian, the stern, and four sailors were Albanian coast. lingered near the anchor, which trapped in the now submerged still sat in its hawse pipe, on the compartment. The dive side of the bow. Leaving the end Of the 240 people on board, Once in contact with the wreck, of the prow, our dive proceeded 20 crew members lost their lives, we noticed that visibility was good towards the stern. What imme- as well as four Red Cross nurses— and there was a total absence of diately caught the eye was the Wanda Secchi, Emma Tramontani current. In the beginning, it was excellent state of preservation of and Maria Federici—during the easy to be overwhelmed by the the bridge deck, whose wooden shipwreck; and a few months desire to want to visit everything, tables in marine teak were still in- later, Maria Medaglia, from blood finding yourself in the end, swim- tact, clean and perfectly aligned poisoning, for ingesting contami- ming in a frantic way, between with each other. nated water. the decks, but the experience After passing a group of bow The then 30-year-old Red Cross gained in previous dives and time- winches, we passed the mast, nurse, Edda, the eldest child of ly planning made us proceed with now lying on the deck after years Benito Mussolini, was saved by utmost caution. The first image we of rising up to more than a metre reaching the beach of Radhima glimpsed was an evocative one above the surface of the sea. on a makeshift craft. The Po's of the bow, which immediately Today, the mass of beams and keel settled on a depth of about highlighted the vertical seams of cables were lying horizontally on 35m. The steamer was so impos- the ship. the main deck, across the open- ing that the top of the mast stuck From the ship's left-hand-side ings of the two bow holds. Inside out of the water by over a meter, hawse pipe, the anchor chain the first one, in a boatswain’s thus indicating exactly the point emerged, which on that fate- cubicle, we found large quantities of the shipwreck. Since then, the ful night of 14 March 1941 kept of tools for mooring the ship. In the

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rap MICHELE FAVARON MICHELE FAVARON

THIS PAGE: Divers shed light on details and artifacts found on the wreck of the Italien hospital ship Po

second were bathrooms, within which and the diver, between those walls and beds), one could take a leap in time the ceramics that covered the walls, those well-known rooms, could not help and feel immersed in history. Outside sinks, toilets and baths were still perfectly but reflect on the events of the war. the hull, proceeding towards the stern, preserved. The ship, in addition to transport- one could see the cranes of the boats, After the exploration of the forward ing the injured, also provided medical and, just below, two floors of external part, we arrived at the imposing su- treatment. On board were an operating corridors. perstructure, which we easily entered room, several clinics, and even x-ray fa- Even in the stern area, the deck was through the large windows and got cilities and laboratories. The wide hatch- perfectly intact. Moving away a few into what was once the bridge. It was es that passed through several decks metres in clear water, one could ap- necessary, however, to pay attention were used to lower the most injured (on preciate the elegant profile of the stern to sharp metal and abrasive surfaces, stretchers) to the various decks. and the rudder, standing up ten metres and be mindful that visibility could be It was still possible to go down into tall. The propellers were partially cov- reduced. In this manner, we explored the rooms below and explore the lower ered up, but still visible, at a depth of the internal compartments, using a reel decks of the ship, but it was important about 30m. to lay out a guideline with positioning to pay attention to sedimentation and The gash caused by the torpedo was markers and cookies, as underwater ferrous material, which, when disturbed located in the middle of the starboard signage led us to the safe way out. by passing divers or their bubbles, tend- side. The opening was wide enough to The missing decks made the interior a ed to move or detach from the ceiling, enter, while the jagged edges and met- unique and scenic environment. From jeopardising visibility. al curving inward testified to the violent where once there were the windows, Under the fans still hanging from the explosion and the subsequent, sudden the light penetrated, creating a spec- ceilings, between stacks of plates and inflow of water, which spelled the ship's tacular and evocative play of shadows cups perfectly interlocked into each demise.  and colour. It is a place where eve- other (not to mention glasses, bottles, rything had come to an abrupt stop, vials, hospital instruments and stacked

MICHELE FAVARON

13 X-RAY MAG : 83 : 2018 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Less Stress wreck Easier Communications rap Faster Learning Safer Diving... AUSTRALIAN WAR MEMORIAL / PUBLIC DOMAIN PUBLIC / MEMORIAL WAR AUSTRALIAN Last known image taken on 9 September 1914 of Australia’s first submarine, HMAS AE1, shown here off the coast of . The sub Human Factors Skills was lost off the coast of the Duke of York Islands in on 14 September 1914. in Diving Do you want to learn how to Australia’s first submarine HMAS AE1 has been found apply the hard-worn lessons from aviation, oil & gas and AUSTRALIA GOVERNMENT DEPT OF DEFENCE DEPT GOVERNMENT AUSTRALIA Australia's Minister of Defence, and search technology. The team of The Australian government will work The helm of HMAS AE1 Marise Payne, has announced maritime surveyors, marine archaeolo- closely with the Papua New Guinean healthcare to your diving to gists and naval historians scoured the government to consider a lasting com- make it more fun, having that Australia’s oldest naval search area with a multi-beam echo memoration and recognition of the mystery has now been solved, sounder and side-scan technology in crew of AE1 and to preserve the site. greater awareness and more following the location of HMAS an underwater drone flying 40m above The information gained from this memories, and ultimately AE1 in more than 300m (984ft) the sea bed on pre-programmed 20- expedition and from the research to hour missions. Its success is due to the date will greatly assist in unravelling the become a safer diver? of water off the coast of Papua efforts of these teams. The first images mystery of the loss of HMAS AE1, and New Guinea. captured by the expedition show the will be held by the Australian National vessel is remarkably well-preserved and Maritime Museum for future genera- Globally unique training and HMAS AE1 was the first of two E Class apparently in one piece. tions to remember. Lest We Forget.  coachin©g Commonwealth focussing o nof c Australiareating submarines built for the fledgling Royal SOURCE: high performance dive teams Australian Navy and was manned by War grave Royal Navy officers with a mixed crew Following the dis- and individual divers. of sailors drawn from the Royal Navy covery of the sub- W31 MARINER High Pressure Compressor and the Royal Australian Navy. The marine, a small Charging Rate: 105 or 140 lt/min submarine was lost off Rabaul on 14 commemorative Working Pressure: 225/310 bar Dimensions (CM): W44 L81 H52 September 1914, and the fate of her service was con- Weight: 65 kg W32 CANOPY 35 crew members remained one of ducted by those on High Pressure Compressor the significant mysteries of Australian board the survey Charging Rate: 180, 250 or 300 lt/min Working Pressure: 225/310 bar military history. It was the first loss for vessel to remember Dimensions (CM): W70 L100 H130 Alkin and Aykom Weight: 280, 290 or 300 kg Compressor Distributors the Royal Australian Navy and the first those officers and Allied submarine loss in World War I. sailors who lost their C & R Testing Ltd The current search was jointly funded lives 103 years ago. Unit 1, Owenshaw Mills, Old Cawsey, by the Australian government, the Efforts are being Sowerby Bridge, Halifax HX6 2AF Silentworld Foundation, the Australian made to contact Telephone: +44 (0) 1422 410 466 | Email: [email protected] Website: www.candrtesting.co.uk National Maritime Museum and Find the descendants of Opening Times: Monday to Friday 9.00 am - 17:00 pm AE1 Ltd, utilising Fugro Survey’s vessel the crew. Saturday and Sunday - Closed AUSTRALIA GOVERNMENT DEPT OF DEFENCE DEPT GOVERNMENT AUSTRALIA Survey data showing HMAS AE1 on the sea bed

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Edited by Peter Symes Further exploration The National Museum of the Philippines has given the team of Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen the green light to explore Philip- pine waters for World War II-era shipwrecks, focusing particularly on the areas of the Surigao Strait and Ormoc Bay where key battles took place in October 1944, as part of the massive Allied under- taking to liberate the country from Wreck of USS Ward, the first US ship to open Japanese occupation. One hundred and thirty-six years after her disappearance, theSTEAMBOATSTORIES.CA wreck of the The US billionaire's team recently steamer Jane Miller has been discovered in Lake Huron. found the wreck of USS Indian- fire in WWII, has been found apolis in the Philippine Sea at the depth of 5,500ft. Meanwhile, it Ship lost in 1881 found in shallow Underwater footage taken can shot in World War II, when she Three years later located the Italian WWII destroyer by the R/V Petrel, an explora- engaged a Japanese submarine On the morning of 7 December, Artigliere in the Mediterranean waters in Lake Huron tion ship owned by Microsoft before the attack on Pearl Har- three years to the day after she Sea in March, according to Allen's cofounder Paul Allen, shows bor, and successfully sank her fired the opening shot of Ameri- website. In 2015, it also discovered The ship is mostly structurally intact with its mast still what remains of the USS Ward opponent. The target sunk was ca's involvement in the war, while the wreckage of World War II-era standing, rising within 23m of the surface. The ship- where it lies at the bottom of a Japanese Ko-hyoteki-class, patrolling off the invasion area Japanese battleship Musashi 1km Leyte Gulf in the Philippines, near two-man midget submarine, thus at Ormoc Bay, Leyte, she came under the Sibuyan Sea off Ram- wreck hunters also reported spotting what could be the Ponson Island. Images com- Ward fired the first American shots under attack and was hit by a blon. The Musashi was commis- remains of bodies. ing from the drone inspecting of World War II a few hours be- Japanese Kamikaze midship. sioned in 1942, and was then the the wreck ship on 1 December fore the Japanese carrier aircraft The resulting fires could not be largest battleship in naval history. The Jane Miller, a 78ft passenger revealed their summer discovery showed the ship’s remains heav- formally opened the conflict with controlled and Ward's crew was It measured 263m in length, and and cargo steamer, has been to coincide with the anniversary ily overtgrown by marine life. their attack on the Pacific Fleet ordered to abandon ship. weighed 73,000 tons when fully found on the bottom of Lake of the Jane Miller’s sinking on 25 USS Ward fired the first Ameri- inside the harbor. loaded.  SOURCE: PAULALLEN.COM Huron after going missing while November 1881. The wreck was en route to Manitoulin during a found in Colpoys Bay, an inlet of storm 136 years ago with over 25 Georgian Bay leading to Wiarton people on board, all of whom on the eastern side of the Bruce drowned. The ship is mostly struc- Peninsula north of Owen Sound in turally intact with its mast still Georgian Bay. standing, rising within 23m of the DOMAIN PUBLIC / NAVY US surface. The top deck and pilot Discovery house have collapsed, and are Finding the ship is a major dis- structurally non-existent. The ship’s covery for the area, local marine wheel is still evident near the bow. history author Scott Cameron told The hull and main deck remain the Toronto Sun. He said there are intact. A small debris field sur- not many ships left from that era, rounds the wreck. and it holds substantial archeolog- ical significance. See the discov- Shipwreck hunters Jared Daniels, ery of the Jane Miller described in Jerry Eliason and Ken Merryman a post at: Scubaboard.com.  USS Ward running speed trials off the California coast in September 1918, Bow of USS Ward. Photo courtesy of USS Ward Media Assets while painted in disruptive camouflage

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