A History (1851-2011)

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HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 1

HOW JAPANESE AND JAPANESE-AMERICANS

BROUGHT SOYFOODS TO THE UNITED STATES

AND THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS -- A HISTORY

(1851-2011):

EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED

BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK

Compiled

William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi

2011

All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews, without written permission from the publisher.

Published by: Soyinfo Center P.O. Box 234 Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091 www.soyinfocenter.com [email protected]

ISBN 978-1-928914-37-2 (How Japanese Brought Soyfoods to the United States -- A History)

Printed 11 July 2011

Price: Available on the Web free of charge

Search engine keywords: Japanese, Soyfoods and the United States History Early History of Tofu in the United States Japanese, Soybean Foods and the United States History Early History of Miso in the United States Japanese, Tofu and the United States History Early History of Soy Sauce in the United States Japanese, Miso and the United States History Early History of Shoyu in the United States Japanese, Shoyu and the United States History Early History of Natto in the United States] Japanese, Soy Sauce and the United States History Japanese, Natto and the United States History Early History of Tofu in the Hawaiian Islands Early History of Miso in the Hawaiian Islands Japanese-Americans, Soyfoods and the United States History Early History of Soy Sauce in the Hawaiian Islands Japanese-Americans, Soybean Foods and the United States Early History of Shoyu in the Hawaiian Islands History Early History of Natto in the Hawaiian Islands Japanese-Americans, Tofu and the United States History Japanese-Americans, Miso and the United States History Early History of Tofu in the USA Japanese-Americans, Shoyu and the United States History Early History of Miso in the USA Japanese-Americans, Soy Sauce and the United States Early History of Soy Sauce in the USA History Early History of Shoyu in the USA Japanese-Americans, Natto and the United States History Early History of Tofu in Hawaii Japanese, Soyfoods and the United States Timeline Early History of Miso in Hawaii Japanese, Soybean Foods and the United States Timeline Early History of Soy Sauce in Hawaii Japanese, Tofu and the United States Timeline Early History of Shoyu in Hawaiian Japanese, Miso and the United States Timeline Early History of Natto in Hawaii Japanese, Shoyu and the United States Timeline Early History of Japanese in the United States Japanese, Soy Sauce and the United States Timeline Early History of Japanese in Hawaii Japanese, Natto and the United States Timeline

Contents

Page

Dedication and Acknowledgments...... 4

Introduction and Brief Chronology, by William Shurtleff ...... 5

About This Book ...... 10

Abbreviations Used in This Book ...... 11

How to Make the Best Use of This Digital Book - Search It! ...... 12

Graph (Full-Page): Population of Japanese Living in the United States (1868-1913) ...... 14

How Japanese and Japanese-Americans Brought Soyfoods: 1259 References in Chronological Order ...... 17

Contains 110 photographs and illustrations

Subject/Geographical Index by Record Numbers ...... 305

Last Page of Index ...... 328

DEDICATION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Irene Yen, Tony Jenkins, Sarah Chang, Laurie Wilmore, This book is dedicated to all the Japanese and Alice Whealey, Simon Beaven, Elinor McCoy, Patricia Japanese-American pioneers who brought soyfoods to McKelvey, Claire Wickens, Ron Perry, Walter Lin, Dana the United States and the Hawaiian Islands. Scott, Jeremy Longinotti, John Edelen, Alex Lerman, Lydia Lam, Gretchen Muller, Joyce Mao, Luna Oxenberg, Joelle Bouchard, Justine Lam, Joey Shurtleff, Justin Hildebrandt, Michelle Chun, Olga Kochan, Loren Clive, Marina Li, Part of the enjoyment of writing a book lies in meeting Rowyn McDonald, Casey Brodsky, Hannah Woodman, people from around the world who share a common interest, Elizabeth Hawkins, Molly Howland, Jacqueline Tao, Lynn and in learning from them what is often the knowledge Hsu. or skills acquired during a lifetime of devoted research or practice. We wish to give deepest thanks... Special thanks to Tom and Linda Wolfe of Berwyn Park, Maryland. Of the many libraries and librarians who have been of great help to our research over the years, several stand out:  For outstanding help on this book about Japanese pioneers we thank: (1) For helping us to obtain and translate these rare University of California at Berkeley: John Creaser, Lois Japanese documents: Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff; Eiichi Ito, Dr. Farrell, Norma Kobzina, Ingrid Radkey. Ming Sun Poon, Dr. Jeffrey Wang, Kiyoyo Pipher, Hiromi Shimamoto (Asian Div., Library of Congress); Seizo Oka Northern Regional Library Facility (NRLF), Richmond, (Japanese Cultural & Community Center, History Archives); California: Martha Lucero, Jutta Wiemhoff, Scott Miller, Dave Conklin (the origin of this book); Matthew Roth (for Virginia Moon, Kay Loughman. Densho Archive documents). (2) For decades of friendship and cooperation: Mr. Shoan Yamauchi (Matsuda-Hinode); Stanford University: Molly Molloy, who has been of special Yuzaburo Mogi, Dr. Tamotsu Yokotsuka, Kenzaburo Mogi help on Slavic-language documents. IV, Danji Fukushima, Masa Miyashita, Kazuya Hayashi, Takeji Mizunuma (all of Kikkoman); Michio and Aveline National Agricultural Library: Susan Chapman, Kay Derr, Kushi, Herman and Cornellia Aihara (macrobiotic teachers), Carol Ditzler, John Forbes, Winnifred Gelenter, Henry Dr. Kunisuke Kuwahara; Seishiro Ikegami, Yasuo Kumoda, Gilbert, Kim Hicks, Ellen Knollman, Patricia Krug, Art Mio (Morinaga), Bill and Jack Mizono (Azumaya); Sarah Lee, Veronica Lefebvre, Julie Mangin, Ellen Mann, Noritoshi and Atsuko Kanai (Mutual Trading Co.); Tak Josephine McDowell, Wayne Olson, Mike Thompson, Kimura (Food Broker); Itaru “Terry” Tanaka (MicroSoy Tanner Wray. Corp.); Koji Okamoto (Yamasa); Eileen Ota (Ota Family Tofu); Takao Nihei (historian, Hawaii); Wataru Takai (Tofu Contra Costa County Central Library and Lafayette Library: & Soymilk Equipment); Teruo Shimizu (Miyako Oriental Carole Barksdale, Kristen Wick, Barbara Furgason, Sherry Foods); Mary Tadano, Michiko Tadano; Betty Takesuye, Cartmill, Linda Barbero. Barbara Peeters (Showa Shoyu Brewing Co.); Densho Digital Archive / Project; Minami Sato (natto maker, French translation: Martine Liguori of Lafayette, California, Sebastapol, California). for ongoing, generous, and outstanding help since the early 1980s. Finally our deepest thanks to Tony Cooper of San Ramon, California, who has kept our computers up and running since Japanese translation and maps: Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Sept. 1983. Without Tony, this series of books on the Web would not have been possible. Loma Linda University, Del E. Webb Memorial Library (Seventh-day Adventist): Janice Little, Trish Chapman. This book, no doubt and alas, has its share of errors. These, of course, are solely the responsibility of William Shurtleff. We would also like to thank our co-workers and friends at Soyinfo Center who, since 1984, have played a major role in  This bibliography and sourcebook was written with the collecting the documents, building the library, and producing hope that someone will write a detailed and well-documented the SoyaScan database from which this book is printed: history of this subject.

INTRODUCTION

How Japanese and Japanese-Americans Brought period of awakening, expansion, and opening to the outside Soyfoods to the United States and the Hawaiian Islands world after 268 years of peaceful isolation during the Edo -– A History (Tokugawa) period.

Almost all of the earliest known companies making 1868 – The Japanese population of the United States (not soyfoods in the United States were started by people of including Hawaii, which was annexed to the USA in 1898 Japanese ancestry - most of them in small communities in and became a state in Aug. 1959) is six – the earliest known California, the Hawaiian Islands, Oregon and Washington. statistic.

How do we know this? Largely because of two remarkable 1879 – Saheiji Mogi, of Noda, Japan, registers Kikkoman, public directories published in San Francisco by the Nichi- his family’s pride and fl agship brand of shoyu (Japanese-style Bei Shinbun-sha (Japanese American News Inc.). The fi rst, soy sauce), as a brand name in California – six years before published from 1905 to 1916, was titled Zaibei Nihonjin it is granted the same legal protection in Japan. He is soon Nenkan, retitled Nichi-Bei Nenkan in 1909 (Japanese- exporting small wooden kegs, bound with bamboo hoops American Yearbook). The second, published from 1919 (18 liters or 4.76 gallons capacity) of Kikkoman shoyu to to 1941, was titled Nichibei Jūshoroku (The Japanese California and the Western United States where it is prized by American Directory). the growing number of Japanese immigrants (Fruin 1983, p. 59-60). There is, unfortunately, no known corresponding directory listing Chinese businesses in the United States – until about 1891 – The earliest known manufacturer of shoyu in Hawaii the 1930s (Dr. Ming Sun Poon, 2008, Library of Congress; or the United States is started in Honolulu, Oahu, by Jihachi and search of OCLC / WorldCat database). Nevertheless, Shimada; the company name and brand name are unknown. people of Chinese ancestry have made an immense The company closed soon after it started. contribution to bringing soyfoods to the United States and the Hawaiian Islands. 1897 – Yamamori Jozo-sho (Yamamori Brewery) starts to make Yamamori Shoyu (soy sauce) in San Jose, California. A note about pronunciation of Chinese / Japanese It is the fi rst company to make soy sauce in the continental characters. Most characters can be pronounced in more than United States. one way. Thus, when the name of a Japanese company or person is listed in the Yearbooks or Directories in characters 1897 – The Japanese population of the United States is only, without romanization (i.e., not written in roman estimated to be 13,000. After Hawaii was forcibly annexed letters / English - see p. 62), Akiko has had to guess at the by the United States in 1898, the Japanese population in the pronunciation. When more than one pronunciation appears continental USA rose to an estimated 35,000 in 1899 and in this book, the fi rst one is more likely to be correct than 53,764 in 1904. Hawaii served as a sort of stepping stone for the second one, etc. – based on Akiko’s knowledge of many, making it easier to get to the continental USA. Japanese as a native speaker. 1905 – Sugita Jozo-sho (Sugita Brewery) is now making Sugita Shoyu in San Jose, California. It is the second 1851 March – Shipwrecked Japanese, picked up in the company to make soy sauce in the continental United States, barque Auckland, then quarantined off San Francisco, bring and also in San Jose! the fi rst soybeans to California; they give them in gratitude to Dr. Benjamin Franklin Edward, who takes them to 1905 – Yamajo Soy Co. (Yamajo Shoyu Seizo-sho) starts to Illinois and to the Midwest (Evening Picayune, March 5, p. make shoyu in Honolulu, Oahu. Established by Mr. Nobuyuki 2; Hymowitz 1987, p. 28-32). Yamakami, it is the fi rst successful shoyu manufacturer in Hawaii. By 1909 it was renamed Hawaiian Soy Co. Ltd. 1868 – The fi rst Japanese arrive in the Hawaiian Islands on (Hawaii Shoyu K.K.). the ship Scioto (Saioto-go), bringing shoyu and miso with them. It is Meiji 1 – the fi rst year of the Meiji period, a 1905 – There are 6 Japanese tofu shops in the United States;

2 in Los Angeles, and 1 each in San Francisco, Sacramento, were employed in any capacity. The surveyors went to every San Jose, and Isleton - all in California. part of California where Japanese were believed to live, and eventually surveyed an estimated 95% of the Japanese 1906 – The fi rst Japanese tofu shop in Washington state is in in California. Most Japanese welcomed the surveyors operation (in Seattle). and responded accurately and in detail on forms which were printed in both Japanese and English. A very high 1907 – Miso is fi rst made commercially in the continental percentage of the forms were returned by mail to the survey United States by Yamane Miso, Sakana Sho in Sacramento, headquarters. California. The next four commercial miso makers in the continental USA all started in California, owned and 1910 early – Mr. Mackenzie submits to the governor operated by Japanese. 1908 – Sanyo Shokai, in Melrose (near of California his 78-page report titled Labor Laws of Alameda); 1913 – Marumi Miso Seizo-sho, in Los Angeles; California: First Special Report of the Bureau of Labor 1917 – Fujimoto Co., in San Francisco (Brand: Kanemasa Statistics. It praises Japanese and concludes that the Japanese Miso). 1919 – Norio Co., in San Francisco (Type: Shiro miso population is making an important contribution to the state = Sweet white miso). (Mackenzie 1909; California Bureau of Labor Statistics 1910; K. Kawakami 1912, p. 343-44). The 1911 Nichi- 1908 – Miso is fi rst made commercially in Hawaii by the Bei Nenkan (Japanese-American Yearbook), subsequent Hawaiian Yamajo Soy Company of Honolulu. Yearbooks, and the Nichi-Bei newspaper in San Francisco, all seem to have benefi tted greatly from the Report and the 1907 – The fi rst Japanese tofu shop in Utah is in operation work of the Commission, in part by the addition of many (in Ogden). new and interesting statistics – but we have never been able to fi nd out exactly how. The Report itself, unfortunately, no 1908 – The fi rst Japanese tofu shop in Nevada is in operation longer exists. (in Reno). 1910 – The Japanese population of the top eight U.S. states 1908 – The Japanese population of the United States rises to is: California 55,901, Washington state 16,930. Colorado a peak of 103,683. 4,557. Oregon 3,873. Utah 2,529. Idaho 2,399. New York 2,260. Wyoming 1,409. About 90% of these people are men 1909 – Sanyo Shoyu Jozo Gaisha starts making soy sauce in (adult males). Portland, Oregon – the state’s fi rst shoyu manufacturer. By 1913 the company had been renamed Sanyo Shoyu Jozo-sho. 1910 – The value of miso and shoyu imported from Japan to San Francisco tops $100,000. 1909 – The Japanese-American Yearbook (No. 5, p. 69) states: The value of the 1900 soybean crop in the 1910 late – At least 65 Japanese tofu shops have been United States is $7,634,262 and the value in California established in the continental United States; none in the is $1,022,586. Note: This is the earliest document seen Hawaiian Islands. Some are no longer in business. (July 2011) that gives soybean production or area statistics for either the USA or California – earlier than any U.S. 1911 – The Japanese-American Yearbook (No. 7, p. 54, in a Department of Agriculture statistics. Unfortunately, the table) states that in 1911 some 2,785,516 bushels of soybeans source of these statistics is not given. were produced in the entire USA worth $7,767,702. Note: Again, the source of these statistics is not given. These are 1910 – 2.88 million gallons of Kikkoman soy sauce are very early statistics on soybean production in the United now exported from Japan, the principal destinations being States – earlier than any known USDA statistics. Moreover, Honolulu, Portland, San Francisco, Tacoma, Denver, and a table of U.S. imports and exports from Japan (p. 74) shows Chicago. that $109,316 worth of miso and shoyu were imported to the USA; they were considered dutiable items, with a 40% duty 1909 early – At a time of anti-Japanese sentiment in levied on each (part 2, p. 23). California, stirred up by leaders of the labor movement, the California legislature “approved an appropriation of 1911 – Ohta Tofu-ten (Ota Tofu Co.) is now making tofu at $10,000 to be utilized for investigating the conditions of 266 Davis St., Portland, Oregon. The owner is Saizō Ota. Japanese in that state.” The investigation was directed by John D. Mackenzie, Commissioner, California Bureau of 1911 – The fi rst Japanese tofu shop in New York is in Labor Statistics. Work was begun on April 15, 1909, with the operation (in Brooklyn). appointment of nine special agents – all white. No Japanese

1913 – The ﬁ rst Japanese tofu shop in Idaho is in operation 1934 Jan. – Matsuda Tofu-ten (Matsuda Tofu Co.) is now (in Sugar City). making tofu at 2844 East 1st St., Los Angeles, California.

1913 – Japanese population in the top East Coast states: 1939 – Mr. Shoan Yamauchi starts making tofu at Rear 1031 New York: 2,209. New Jersey 277. Massachusetts 230. Aala, Honolulu, Hawaii. By 1955 the company had been Pennsylvania 223. Florida 89. Washington, DC 54. Rhode renamed Aala Tofu Factory. Island 41. Maryland 29. About 95% of these are males. 1940 – At least 392 Japanese tofu shops have been started the 1917 Dec. – Eight Mogi and Takanashi family companies, United States and Hawaii. Some are no longer in business. the leading shoyu producers in the Noda area of Japan, merge to form Noda Shoyu Co., Ltd., a company with capital 1941 late – By food: As of late this year, 537 different of ¥7 million and the predecessor of Kikkoman Corporation. Japanese-owned companies in the United States and the Hawaiian Islands have made soyfoods. Of these, 418 (78% 1919 Jan. 1 – The ﬁ rst issue of the annual Nichi-Bei of the total) have made tofu, 62 have made miso, 57 have Jushoroku (The Japanese American Directory) appears, made shoyu (soy sauce), and 4 have made natto. Five of replacing the Nichi-Bei Nenkan (Japanese American these companies have made more than one soyfood product. Yearbook – which was ﬁ rst published (under a different title) Many of these companies are no longer in business. in 1905. 1941 late – By state: As of late this year, 311 of these 537 1919 Jan. – Tomoe Tofu-ya (Tomoe Tofu Co.) is now companies have operated in California (58% of the total), making tofu at 324 Jackson St., Los Angeles, California. It 156 in Hawaii, 22 in Washington state, 15 in Utah, 10 in was later acquired by Matsuda Tofu Co. Oregon, and 4 in Idaho.

1920 Jan. 1 – Yamaizumi Miso Seizo-sho is making sweet 1941 Dec. 7 – Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor. Life white miso, fresh koji, and dried koji at 1436 Cahuenga Ave., suddenly becomes much more difﬁ cult for Japanese and Los Angeles, California. In 1975 this company was acquired Japanese-Americans living in the United States. by Miyako Oriental Foods of Los Angeles. 1942 Feb. 19 – Executive Order 9066 is signed by President 1920 – At least 166 Japanese tofu shops have been started in Franklin Dr. Roosevelt. Basically all Japanese and Japanese- the USA and Hawaii. Some are no longer in business. Americans living in the western USA (west of the Rocky Mountains) are sent to harsh internment camps, where they 1923 – H. Iwanaga is now making tofu at Rear 1031 Aala, are kept behind barbed wire during World War II until late Honolulu, Hawaii. He is the earliest known tofu maker 1944 – when the entire operation is ruled unconstitutional in the Hawaiian Islands (one of 3, the other two being by the United States Supreme Court. All Japanese-owned Yazaemon Ono and Yasuzu Tanouye – also in Honolulu). companies making soyfoods in the Western USA cease The company (H. Iwanaga Daufu) was purchased twice by operations and most are no longer there when their owners Shoshiro Kanehori and Mrs. Haruko Uyeda; it was ﬁ nally return home after World War II. The owners must start all purchased in 1939 by Mr. and Mrs. Shokin Yamauchi, and over to rebuild their businesses. later renamed Aala Tofu Co. It is thus the earliest known Hawaiian ancestor of Hinode Tofu Co., which became 1942 – Showa Shoyu Brewing Co. (Glendale, Arizona) starts America’s largest tofu manufacturer, run by Mr. Shoan making Marusho Shoyu. The company is owned and run by Yamauchi. Takeshi Tadano and his son, John Tadano. Actual bottles of this soy sauce still exist. 1930 – Azumaya Tofu Seizo-sho (Azumaya Co.) is now making tofu at 1636 Post Street, San Francisco, California. 1943-1944 – At the ten Internment camps housing Japanese The company existed as early as 1922 as a maker of and Japanese-Americans during World War II, tofu was Japanese pickles. Azumaya may have started making tofu made at eight (starting at Poston in Jan. 1943; 4,000 cakes several years before 1930; we have been unable the examine a month); miso was made at three (starting at Jerome in Japanese directories from 1926-1929. Sept. 1943; 1,000 lb/week), HVP shoyu was made at one (Manzanar, starting in Nov. 1942; 1,000 to 5,000 gallons a 1930 – At least 293 Japanese tofu shops have been month), and soymilk was made at one (Poston, starting in established in the United States and Hawaii. Some are no Dec. 1943). longer in business. 1946 – Tomoe Tofu-ya (Tomoe Tofu Co.) in Los Angeles is

Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 8 acquired by Matsuda Tofu Co. for $8,000 (Interview with Shoan Yamauchi, 1982). 1968 – Bottling of Kikkoman Soy Sauce for the American market begins at the Leslie Foods plant in Oakland, 1947 March – Hinode Tofu Seizo-sho (Hinode Tofu California. Co.) starts making Hinode Tofu (Japanese-style Soft, and Chinese-style Firm) at 706 E. Sixth St., Los Angeles. The 1968 July 1 – The Immigration and Nationality Act of company was started by the former owners of Tomoe Tofu 1965 (Hart-Celler Act, signed into law Oct. 3, 1965, by Co. (Mr. Tomoe and probably a partner). President Lyndon Jonson), becomes law. A new era in Asian immigration to the United States begins. 1950 – At least 425 Japanese tofu shops have been started the United States and Hawaii. Some are no longer in business 1972 March – Kikkoman Foods, Inc. (KFI), is established in Walworth, Wisconsin (USA) for the purpose of 1957 June – Kikkoman International Inc. (KII) is established manufacturing soy sauce and teriyaki sauce. in San Francisco, California, in the United States. 1973 June – Kikkoman’s sparkling new plant in Walworth, 1950s mid – Before Kikkoman entered the U.S. market, soy Wisconsin, with a capacity of 10 million liters (2.6 million sauce was sold strictly as a seasoning for Oriental foods. But gallons) a year begins operations – making Japanese-style starting in the mid-1950s. Kikkoman began to take a new shoyu and teriyaki sauce. The plant cost about $6-10 million approach, marketing its savory sauce as both all-purpose and to build and initially employed about 100 people. all-American, using attractive (and expensive) television and color print media ads with American-style recipes featuring 1976 – Kikkoman passes La Choy (a nonfermented HVP meat, fi sh, and poultry. soy sauce made by Beatrice Foods) to become America’s best-selling soy sauce. In 1971 Kikkoman had passed Chun 1958 – The fi rst KII branch is established in Los Angeles. King (an HVP soy sauce made by Del Monte’s RJR Foods) to become No. 2. 1963 – Matsuda-Hinode Tofu Mfg. Co. is now making tofu in Los Angeles. It is the biggest tofu maker in the Western 1976 Jan. 21 – Miyako Oriental Foods is founded; United States. In 1964 the company established three operations began on June 1. Noritoshi Kanai is president. milestones: (1) It became the fi rst company on the West Teruo Shimizu is factory manager. Miyako (at 404 Towne Coast (and perhaps in the world) to package tofu; (2) It Ave., Los Angeles), a division of Yamajirushi Miso Co. in became the fi rst U.S. company to get tofu into a supermarket Japan, is now making Yamajirushi (Shinshu type) Miso, chain (Boy’s Market in Los Angeles); and (3) It became the Kanemasa Miso, Yamaizumi Miso, Aka Miso, and Koji fi rst U.S. company to make natto. In 1969 the company built Miso. and moved into a new location at 526 S. Stanford Ave. 1977 July. – Takai Tofu & Soymilk Equipment Co. 1964 October – Noda Shoyu Co., Ltd., is renamed introduces its “Takai Catalog of Small and Medium-Sized Kikkoman Shoyu Co., Ltd. Equipment” – the fi rst such catalog in English. This makes it much easier for Americans to order the equipment they need 1966 April 12 – Erewhon opens as a small macrobiotic and to start their own companies making tofu on a commercial natural foods retail store in Boston, Massachusetts. Aveline scale. Bean Machines Inc. is founded in California to and Michio Kushi, Japanese teachers of macrobiotics, are import Takai equipment. A “Takai Catalog of Large-scale the founders. Over the next several decades the macrobiotic Equipment” appeared in Feb. 1979. movement nationwide does more than any other group or company to introduce Americans to miso and (after 1977 – Morinaga Milk Industry Co. (of Tokyo, Japan) starts Kikkoman) to shoyu, and to a lesser extent to tempeh, tofu, to sell Morinaga brand Tofu: Soybean Curd in the United natto and soymilk. States in an innovative new long-life aseptically packaged Tetra Brik carton. This “Kinugoshi tofu” product was 1966 July 30 – Mutual Trading Co. (under president developed for the American market. Noritoshi Kanai) imports its fi rst 2 cases of edamamé (green vegetable soybean in the pod) from Japan. On 1 July 1970 1978 April – Morinaga’s product is re-introduced with a new edamamé fi rst appeared in Mutual’s restaurant catalog. As name (Morinaga Silken Tofu), a new package design, and a Mutual Trading Co. was introducing authentic sushi, made recipe for “Creamy Tofu Dressing” on the package. This is in Japanese restaurants by a sushi master, it introduced the fi rst use of the term “silken tofu” on a commercial tofu edamamé as a side dish for the sushi. Americans loved both. product. The product is also sold with a new recipe booklet.

Over the next two decades Morinaga plays a major role in introducing tofu to the USA with handsome color print ads, 1990 July 2 – Niichi Co. breaks ground for its new a “Healthy Life” newsletter, and many promotional and MicroSoy Flakes production plant in Jefferson, Iowa. The outreach activities. plant will have a capacity of 6 tons/hour of edible soy fl akes, using in making tofu, etc. 1978 May – Miyako Oriental Foods (at 404 Towne Ave.) launches Cold Mountain Firm Granular Koji, with a leafl et 1992 – Yamasa, the world’s second largest manufacturer of for using it to make homemade red miso, homemade sweet soy sauce (after Kikkoman) sells 1.3 million gallons of soy white miso, and amazake. sauce to the United States, all of it imported (Ritchie 1994, p. 33). But, since 1973, the Japanese yen has appreciated 1980 Sept. – America’s sushi boom begins in California dramatically, making the cost of exports almost prohibitive when the very popular TV miniseries and epic drama (Kevin 1994, p. 31). Shogun, based on the novel by James Clavell, sparks a great interest in traditional Japanese culture (including food 1994 May 27 – Tak Kimura, a food broker representing culture) among Americans. They fl ock to sushi bars and Yamato Flight Kitchen, sells his fi rst package of edamamé drink Japanese beer and saké. But, true to tradition, Japanese (green vegetable soybeans in the pod) at Whole Foods restaurants serve edamamé, free of charge, with the beer. “It Market in Berkeley, California. He is soon demoing was a mass sampling of the edamamé without people having edamamé at natural food stores, upscale supermarkets, and ordered it! So the success of sushi, Japanese major chain stores (Costco) in California. A real pioneer, he beers, Japanese saké, and edamamé, are all tied in together” has earned the name “Mr. Edamamé.” (Interview with Atsuko Kanai, June 2001). 1994 Aug. – Yamasa Corporation starts making shoyu at its 1982 Sept. 24 – Open house at Miyako Oriental Foods new new 65,000-square-foot plant in Salem, Oregon. In April and expanded, 20,000-square-foot miso factory at 4287 1995 the fi rst soy sauce will be ready to ship. When fully Puente Ave., Baldwin Park, California. operational, the new plant will be able to produce 1.7 million gallons per year (Okamoto 1994). 1983 – House Food Industrial Co., Ltd. of Japan purchases 50% ownership in Yamauchi Enterprises (formerly Hinode 1996 Aug. 10-11 – First Annual L.A. Tofu Festival is Tofu Co., owned by Mr. Shoan Yamauchi) in Los Angeles. organized by Little Tokyo Service Center as a fundraiser. The company is renamed House Foods & Yamauchi, Inc. House Foods Corporation (Hinoichi Tofu) is the main sponsor. More than 30,000 people attended the seventh 1985 Oct. – Morinaga Nutritional Foods opens its fi rst offi ce festival in 2002. It was held for one weekend every summer in the United States, in Los Angeles. Prior to 1985. Mori-Nu until 2007, but was replaced in 2008 by “La Vida Sake,” a was distributed by Mutual Trading Co. of Los Angeles, with saké and food tasting event. sales targeted to the Asian market. After this opening, sales of Mori-Nu Tofu increased from 60,000 to 400,000 cases in 1997 March 4 - Morinaga Nutritional Foods’ new less than four years. Each case contains 25 x 10.5 oz. packs tofu plant in Tualatin, Oregon, holds its offi cial grand of tofu. opening. Mori-Nu Tofu, previously made in Japan, starts to be made in America for the fi rst time. The plant, 65,000 1985 – This year Morinaga sells 4.8 million cakes of tofu to square feet worth about $15 million, is on the same property 32 countries worldwide. as Pacifi c Foods of Oregon, but in a separate building.

1987 Sept. 24 – San J International, the American subsidiary 1997 March 12 – House Foods America Corporation holds of San Jirushi Co. in Japan, dedicates the ﬁ rst tamari brewery a ceremony to mark the completion of America’s largest, outside of Japan – in Richmond, Virginia. state-of-the-art tofu factory in Garden Grove, California. This new, much larger and more modern plant, has three 1993 – Azumaya Inc., America’s largest tofu manufacturer fully automated tofu production lines. The 130,000-square- and the low-price leader, is purchased by Vitasoy of Hong foot plant cost $21 million and will more than double the Kong. company’s tofu production capacity – to 150,000 cakes/day of tofu vs. 70,000 in the old plant. Production will start in 1993 – House Foods Corporation of Osaka, Japan purchases April. the remaining 50% of House Foods & Yamauchi, Inc. from Mr. Shoan Yamauchi. The new company is renamed House Foods America Corporation.

ABOUT THIS BOOK

This is the most comprehensive book ever published about this subject. It has been compiled, one record at a time over a period of 35 years, in an attempt to document the history of soy in this region. It is also the single most current and useful source of information on this subject.

This is one of more than 100 books compiled by William Shurtleff and Akiko Aoyagi, and published by the Soyinfo Center. It is based on historical principles, listing all known documents and commercial products in chronological order. It features detailed information on: • 36 different document types, both published and unpublished. • 355 published documents - extensively annotated bibliography. Every known publication on the subject in every language. • 156 original Soyinfo Center interviews and overviews never before published. • 89 unpublished archival documents • 837 commercial soy products.

Thus, it is a powerful tool for understanding the development of this subject from its earliest beginnings to the present.

Each bibliographic record in this book contains (in addition to the typical author, date, title, volume and pages information) the author’s address, number of references cited, original title of all non-English language publications together with an English translation of the title, month and issue of publication, and the ﬁ rst author’s ﬁ rst name (if given). For most books, we state if it is illustrated, whether or not it has an index, and the height in centimeters.

For commercial soy products (CSP), each record includes (if possible) the product name, date of introduction, manufacturer’s name, address and phone number, and (in many cases) ingredients, weight, packaging and price, storage requirements, nutritional composition, and a description of the label. Sources of additional information on each product (such as advertisements, articles, patents, etc.) are also given.

A complete subject/geographical index is also included.

ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS BOOK

A&M = Agricultural and Mechanical mm = millimeter(s) Agric. = Agricultural or Agriculture N. = North Agric. Exp. Station = Agricultural Experiment Station No. = number or North ARS = Agricultural Research Service Nov. = November ASA = American Soybean Association Oct. = October Assoc. = Association, Associate oz = ounce(s) Asst. = Assistant p. = page(s) Aug. = August photo(s) = photograph(s) Ave. = Avenue P.O. Box = Post Offi ce Box Blvd. = Boulevard Prof. = Professor bu = bushel(s) psi = pounds per square inch ca. = about (circa) R&D = Research and Development cc = cubic centimeter(s) Rd. = Road Chap. = Chapter Rev. = Revised cm = centimeter(s) RPM = revolutions per minute Co. = company S. = South Corp. = Corporation SANA = Soyfoods Association of North America Dec. = December Sept. = September Dep. or Dept. = Department St. = Street Depts. = Departments tonnes = metric tons Div. = Division trans. = translator(s) Dr. = Drive Univ. = University E. = East USB = United Soybean Board ed. = edition or editor USDA = United States Department of Agriculture e.g. = for example Vol. = volume Exp. = Experiment V.P. = Vice President Feb. = February vs. = versus fl oz = fl uid ounce(s) W. = West ft = foot or feet °C = degrees Celsius (Centigrade) gm = gram(s) °F = degrees Fahrenheit ha = hectare(s) > = greater than, more than i.e. = in other words < = less than Inc. = Incorporated incl. = including Illust. = Illustrated or Illustration(s) Inst. = Institute J. = Journal J. of the American Oil Chemists’ Soc. = Journal of the American Oil Chemists’ Society Jan. = January kg = kilogram(s) km = kilometer(s) Lab. = Laboratory Labs. = Laboratories lb = pound(s) Ltd. = Limited mcg = microgram(s) mg = milligram(s) ml = milliliter(s)

HOW TO MAKE THE BEST USE OF THIS DIGITAL BOOK - SEARCH IT!

Most Important Thing: The KEY to using this book is to at least four headings in the subject and country index: SEARCH IT using Adobe Acrobat Reader: For those few Nutrition, Tofu, Soymilk, and Asia, South: India. who do not have it, Google: Acrobat Reader - then select Note the extensive use of cross references to help you: the free download for your type of computer. Then... e.g. “Bean curd. See Tofu.”

Type [Ctrl+F] to “Find.” Near the top right of your Countries and States/Provinces: Every record contains screen a small white box will appear. a country keyword. Most USA and Canadian records also Click the small down-pointing arrow just to the right of contain a state or province keyword, indexed at “U.S. States” that box to get a menu. or “Canadian Provinces and Territories” respectively. All Click “Open Full Acrobat Search.” countries are indexed under their region or continent. Thus At the left of your screen a “Search” box will open. for Egypt, look under Africa: Egypt, and not under Egypt. When asked: “What word or phrase would you like to For Brazil, see the entry at Latin America, South America: search for?” type that word or phrase in the box. Brazil. For India, see Asia, South: India. For Australia see For example: Miso or San Francisco. No need to use Oceania: Australia. quotation marks. Then click “Search.” At “Results” click any line that interests you. Most Important Documents: Look in the Index under “Important Documents -.” For those using a Mac without Acrobat Reader: Safari is often the default browser. Click “Edit” in the toolbar Organizations: Many of the larger, more innovative, or at top. In the dropdown click “Find,” then click pioneering soy-related companies appear in the subject “Find...” again. A search bar will open across top of index – companies like ADM / Archer Daniels Midland Co., screen with a search box at right. In this box type AGP, Cargill, DuPont, Kikkoman, Monsanto, Tofutti, etc. a word or phrase you would like to search, such as Worldwide, we index many major soybean crushers, tofu China or Rockefeller Foundation. Click “Done” then makers, soymilk and soymilk equipment manufacturers, scroll through the various matches in the book. soyfoods companies with various products, Seventh-day Adventist food companies, soy protein makers (including Chronological Order: The publications and products in this pioneers), soy sauce manufacturers, soy ice cream, tempeh, book are listed with the earliest fi rst and the most recent last. soynut, soy fl our companies, etc. Within each year, references are sorted alphabetically by Other key organizations include Society for author. If you are interested in only current information, start Acclimatization (from 1855 in France), American Soybean reading at the back, just before the indexes. Association, National Oilseed/Soybean Processors Association, Research & Development Centers (Peoria, A Reference Book: Like an encyclopedia or any other Cornell), Meals for Millions Foundation, and International reference book, this work is meant to be searched fi rst - to Soybean Programs (INTSOY, AVRDC, IITA, International fi nd exactly the information you are looking for - and then to Inst. of Agriculture, and United Nations). Pioneer soy protein be read. companies include Borden, Drackett, Glidden, Griffi th Labs., Gunther, Laucks, Protein Technologies International, How to Use the Index: A subject and country index is and Rich Products. located at the back of this book. It will help you to go directly to the specifi c information that interests you. Browse Soyfoods: Look under the most common name: Tofu, Miso, through it briefl y to familiarize yourself with its contents and Soymilk, Soy Ice Cream, Soy Cheese, Soy Yogurt, Soy format. Flour, Green Vegetable Soybeans, or Whole Dry Soybeans. Each record in the book has been assigned a sequential But note: Soy Proteins: Isolates, Soy Proteins: Textured number, starting with 1 for the fi rst/earliest reference. It Products, etc. is this number, not the page number, to which the indexes refer. A publication will typically be listed in each index in Industrial (Non-Food) Uses of Soybeans: Look under more than one place, and major documents may have 30-40 “Industrial Uses ...” for more than 17 subject headings. subject index entries. Thus a publication about the nutritional value of tofu and soymilk in India would be indexed under Pioneers - Individuals: Laszlo Berczeller, Henry

Ford, Friedrich Haberlandt, A.A. Horvath, Englebert end of a reference indicates that the Soyinfo Center Library Kaempfer, Mildred Lager, William Morse, etc. Soy-Related owns all or part of that document. We own roughly three Movements: Soyfoods Movement, Vegetarianism, Health fourths of the documents listed. Photocopies of hard-to-ﬁ nd and Dietary Reform Movements (esp. 1830-1930s), Health documents or those without copyright protection can be Foods Movement (1920s-1960s), Animal Welfare/ Rights. ordered for a fee. Please contact us for details. These are indexed under the person’s last name or movement name. Document Types: The SoyaScan database contains 130+ different types of documents, both published (books, Nutrition: All subjects related to soybean nutrition (protein journal articles, patents, annual reports, theses, catalogs, quality, minerals, antinutritional factors, etc.) are indexed news releases, videos, etc.) and unpublished (interviews, under Nutrition, in one or more of 14 subcategories. unpublished manuscripts, letters, summaries, etc.).

Soybean Production: All subjects related to growing, Customized Database Searches: This book was printed marketing, and trading soybeans are indexed under Soybean from SoyaScan, a large computerized database produced Production, e.g., Soybean Production: Nitrogen Fixation, by the Soyinfo Center. Customized/personalized reports or Soybean Production: Plant Protection, or Soybean are “The Perfect Book,” containing exactly the information Production: Variety Development. you need on any subject you can deﬁ ne, and they are now just a phone call away. For example: Current statistics on Other Special Index Headings: Browsing through the tofu and soymilk production and sales in England, France, subject index will show you many more interesting subject and Germany. Or soybean varietal development and genetic headings, such as Industry and Market Statistics, Information research in Third World countries before 1970. Or details on (incl. computers, databases, libraries), Standards, all tofu cheesecakes and dressings ever made. You name it, Bibliographies (works containing more than 50 references), we’ve got it. For fast results, call us now! and History (soy-related). BIBLIO: The software program used to produce this book Commercial Soy Products (CSP): See p. 12. and the SoyaScan database, and to computerize the Soyinfo Center Library is named BIBLIO. Based on Advanced SoyaScan Notes: Th is is a term we have created exclusively for Revelation, it was developed by Soyinfo Center, Tony use with this database. A SoyaScan Notes Interview contains Cooper and John Ladd. all the important material in short interviews conducted and transcribed by William Shurtleff . Th is material has not been History of Soybeans and Soyfoods: Many of our digital published in any other source. Longer interviews are desig- books have a corresponding chapter in our forthcoming nated as such, and listed as unpublished manuscripts. A tran- scholarly work titled History of Soybeans and Soyfoods script of each can be ordered from Soyinfo Center Library. A (4 volumes). Manuscript chapters from that book are now SoyaScan Notes Summary is a summary by William Shurtleff available, free of charge, on our website, www.soyinfocenter. of existing information on one subject. com.

“Note:” When this term is used in a record’s summary, it About the Soyinfo Center. An overview of our publications, indicates that the information which follows it has been computerized databases, services, and history is given on our added by the producer of this database. website.

Asterisks at End of Individual References. Soyinfo Center 1. An asterisk (*) at the end of a record means that P.O. Box 234, Soyinfo Center does not own that document. Lack of an Lafayette, CA 94549 USA asterisk means that Soyinfo Center owns all or part of the Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091 document. www.soyinfocenter.com 2. An asterisk after eng (eng*) means that Soyinfo Center has done a partial or complete translation into English of that document. 3. An asterisk in a listing of the number of references [23* ref] means that most of these references are not about soybeans or soyfoods.

Documents Owned by Soyinfo Center. Lack of an * at the

Population of Japanese in the United States (1868-1913)

120000

100000

80000

60000

40000

20000

0 1860 1870 1880 1890 1900 1910 1920

HOW JAPANESE AND JAPANESE-AMERICANS BROUGHT SOYFOODS TO THE UNITED STATES AND THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS -- A HISTORY

1. Evening Picayune (San Francisco).1851. [Japanese arrive in were at least two three-masted sailing vessels named Scioto San Francisco]. 2(182):2. Col. 5. March 5. sailing in 1868, but there is no indication that any vessel • Summary: “Arrived... Barque, Auckland, Jennings, 70 days named Scioto was ever owned by the Pacifi c Mail Steamship from Hongkong; sugar &c., to Macondray & Co. Company. It is possible they may have chartered it. “Memoranda... Per Auckland–About 25th Jan. fell in with a Japanese junk, which had encountered a severe typhoon 3. Product Name: Shoyu (Brand Unknown). and become very leaky. Th ere were 17 people on board, all of Manufacturer’s Name: Unknown. Company founded by whom have been brought on here.” Jihachi Shimada. Hymowitz (1987, p. 32) fi lled out this story as follows: Manufacturer’s Address: Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. “On 25 Dec. 1850 the barque Auckland, with Capt. Jennings Date of Introduction: 1891. June. in command, sailed from Hong Kong to San Francisco. Th e New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of ship carried sugar and other goods consigned to the shipping Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1905-06. Not listed. agents Macondray and Co., San Francisco.” Also not listed in 1907 or 1909. Note 1. Th ese Japanese brought soybeans to San Francisco Morita, Sakae. 1915. Hawaii Nihonjin Hatten-shi (History and gave them to Dr. Benjamin Franklin Edwards, who took of the Progress of Japanese in Hawaii). Hawaii: Waipahu them to Illinois (see Hymowitz 1987 “Introduction of the Shin Eikan. 866 p. See p. 260. “Th e fi rst Japanese who lived Soybean to Illinois”). in Hawaii and brewed shoyu there was Jihachi Shimada, who Note 2. Bill Hosokawa states in Nisei: Th e Quiet originally came from Yamaguchi-ken, Japan. He started in Americans (Wm. Morrow, 1969, p. 28-29) that the fi rst June 1891 and tried to make shoyu on a large scale. But bad Japanese to become an American citizen arrived on this transportation made it diffi cult for him to expand his market. ship Auckland. His name was Hikozaemon, but he is better Th is plus lack of capital forced him to quit.” known as Joseph Heco. “Heco was fourteen years old in 1850 Note 1. Th is is the earliest known soyfood product when the junk he was sailing on was severely damaged by manufactured by a Japanese in the Western world. It is not a storm. Th e American sailing ship Auckland rescued the known where the soybeans used to make this shoyu were survivors and took them to San Francisco. Heco went to grown. school, got a job with the collector of customs, eventually Nihei, Takao. 1978. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, went to Baltimore, Maryland, where he attended a Catholic shoyu no rekishi” (A history of Japanese sake, miso, and school, and became a naturalized citizen. In 1859 he sailed shoyu in Hawaii: Miso and shoyu). Nippon Jozo Kyokai back to Yokohama and was hired as an interpreter in the U.S. Zasshi 73(7):542-49. Gives founder’s name and city. No consulate. Eventually he returned to Japan where he wrote a longer in business. Letter from Takao Nihei. 1988. July 19. book about his life.” “Th ere was a record showing that Mr. Shimada was the fi rst to make shoyu in Hawaii. But he closed soon aft er he started. 2. Sakuma, Yonekichi. 1868. Nikki [Diary]. April 25. Th e company name and address are unknown. Th erefore I Unpublished. [Jap]* think that the fi rst person who succeeded was Mr. Nobuyuki • Summary: In the fi rst year of Meiji (1868) the author was a Yamakami (Yamashiro).” Letter from Takai Nihei. 1988. passenger on the ship “Scioto” (Saioto-go), headed for Hawaii Sept. 1. “Although it is written in many Hawaiian Japanese with the fi rst group of Japanese immigrants. He noted in his Immigration Histories that Haruhachi SHIMADA was the diary of April 25: “Yokohama departure. Provisions of rice, fi rst person to make shoyu in Hawaii, I think the original miso, shoyu.” source of that information may be the book Hawaii Nihonjin Note: Th is is the earliest document seen (April 2011) Hatten-shi Sakae MORITA (1915), brewing/fermentation concerning soybean products (miso and shoyu) in Hawaii. industry section, see above.” Other books (all in Japanese) Th is document contains the earliest date seen for soybean repeating this information were Dainihon Kaigi Iminshi by products in Hawaii (April or May 1868); soybeans as such Fuji Shugoro (1937, Vol. 2. p. 21-22), Nihon Bunka Koshoshi had not yet been reported by that date. (1955, Vol. 5, p. 409), Hawaii Nihonjin Iminshi (1969, p. 211). Letter from Mr. Nihei. 1988. Oct. 23. Yonekichi Note 2. In 1891, Hawaii was not part of the United States. SAKUMA, born on 11 July 1840, came from Chiba It was fi rst annexed in 1898, and became a state in 1959. prefecture. He went to Hawaii as an immigrant in 1868, and died in 1927 at age 88. 4. Product Name: Tofu. Letter from Paul J. O’Pecko, Reference Librarian, Mystic Manufacturer’s Name: Hirata Co? Seaport Museum, Mystic, Connecticut. 1990. July 3. Th ere Manufacturer’s Address: Sacramento, California.

Date of Introduction: 1895? that Mr. Yamamori (Yama = mountain, Mori as in Morioka) New Product–Documentation: Th is is the earliest known started brewing soy sauce in San Jose on North Sixth St. Th e soyfood product made by a Japanese in the Continental USA. company name is not given. However the initial company name, address, and starting date are not clear. 6. Product Name: Tofu. Washizu, Shakuka. 1930. Zaibei Nihonjin shi kan (A Manufacturer’s Name: Tanaka (K.) & Company. History of Japanese in America). Pages 36-37. “Pioneers Manufacturer’s Address: 326 Amsterdam Ave., New York, of tofu and konnyaku production in America.” A person NY 10023 (Manhattan’s West Side). Phone: 212-874-6600. named Chieto HIRATA, who lived in Sacramento, California, Date of Introduction: 1903? imported konnyaku from Japan. He came to the USA in How Stored: Refrigerated. about 1891. He is one of the old timers who transmigrated New Product–Documentation: Shin Sekai-sha. 1905. Zaibei Hawaii. A native of Hiroshima prefecture in Japan, he was Nippon-jin Kan (Directory of Japanese in the USA). p. 41. very clever and business-minded. In 1893 his wife began Th ere is no company having “Tanaka” in its name listed in a company making konnyaku in Sacramento, California. New York City. Th ere are relatively few Japanese in New York Shortly aft er that she started making tofu. at the time. Most of the businesses are import-export houses, “Footnotes: (1). Mr. Hirata is presently engaged in banks, publishers of newspapers and magazines, hotels, business in Korea. (2) Since the Chinese were the most boarding houses, and restaurants. skilled in making tofu, only recently [in the last 20 years] Takai. 1971. Tofu Shops in America. 326 Amsterdam Ave. have Japanese started specializing in its production. Th ere President: I. Tachikawa. Produce 1,250 cakes of tofu/day (250 are many who claim to be the fi rst; I am afraid of making any gm). errors.” Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. Tanakaya & Co., Inc., 326 Amsterdam Ave., New York City. 5. Product Name: Yamamori Shoyu [Soy Sauce]. Phone: TR4-6600. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamamori Jozo-sho (Yamamori Wells. 1978. New York Times. May 3. p. 19-20. Sugawara. Brewery). Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu Manufacturer’s Address: 561 North 6th Street, San Jose, (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops California. and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 397. Owner: Mr. Eisuke Date of Introduction: 1897. Murakami. New Product–Documentation: Note: Th is is the second 1981. Living Book magazine. Nov. 11. p. 82. “Th e earliest known soyfood product made by a Japanese in the company was founded in 1903.” Soyfoods Center Continental USA, and the earliest known soy sauce and Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. 22. Owner: Mr. Eisuke fermented soy sauce produced in the continental USA. Murakami. Zaibei Nippon-jin Nenkan (Th e Japanese-American Marcea Newman. 1994. Re: Early work with tofu and tofu Yearbook). 1905. No. 1. Published by Mr. Kyutaro Abiko, cheesecakes in America. She fi rst learned of tofu at this tofu of Nichibei [Shinbun], Japanese-American News. Page shop in the late 1960s or early 1970s. 24. Under the category heading “Jozosho” (Breweries), lists Yamamori Jozo-sho, 561 North 5th Street, San Jose, 7. Product Name: Kikko-Ki Soy Sauce. California. Th en page 137 states: “In recent years a person Manufacturer’s Name: Terada (T.) Shoten. By 1915 renamed named Yamamori started a new shoyu brewery and engaged Terada Shoyu Jozo-sho. in it enthusiastically.” An unnumbered page in the same 1905 Manufacturer’s Address: 1346 N. King, Honolulu, Oahu, edition states that there are currently two shoyu breweries in Hawaii. San Jose. Th is must mean Yamamori and Sugita. Date of Introduction: 1905-1906. Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1906. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 38. Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1905-06. p. 357. “Yamamori Shoyu Jozo-sho, 561 N. 6th St., San Jose. Terada T. Shoten, soymkr [soy-maker], 1346 N. King. Washizu, Shakuka. 1930. Zaibei Nihonjin shi kan (A 1907 Directory. p. 567. Terada, Tagero, soy, 1346 N. King. History of Japanese in America). Page 38. “Th e origin of Residence, same. 1908 Directory, same. 1909 Directory. p. shoyu production (by Japanese in America).” In about 1897 559. Terada, F., soy. 1346 N. King. Residence, same; Hawaii Mr. Kohei Yamamori started making shoyu in San Jose, Hojin Katsuyaku-shi, Meiji 41-42 (Japanese who play an California (on North 6th St.). Eventually the business failed, active role in Hawaii, 1908-09). 1915. Oct. Lists Terada Shoyu but in about 1907 many other shoyu makers started in Jozosho, founded by Tajiro Terada, as a brewer of Kikko-ki various other parts of the country. Talk with Ken Mogi. 1984. brand soy sauce, located on King St., Palawa, Honolulu. Th e April 20. Th e California First Bank in San Francisco has a company also has an ad on page 22. library of Japanese-American history. A 1930 article states 1916 Directory. T. Terada, 1222 N. King. Directory of the

City and County of Hawaii. 1947-48. p. 989. Terada T. Shoten page before p. 22) in this 1905 yearbook states that Murata- (Kyuzo and Robert H. Terada, and Mrs. Hatsuko Umeno). ten makes tofu (Tôfu seizô). Owner: Ichimatsu Murata. Th ey General Merchandise and Soy Manufacturers. 1224 N. King. also make food to order. Also in 1906, p. 32. However the Tel. 8033. Note this company’s rebirth on the same street with address has changed to P.O. Box 41. Also in 1907, p. 63. the same name aft er almost 40 years. Th ey are not listed in the 1941-42 Directory. 10. Product Name: Tofu. Note: Th is is the earliest known commercial soy product Manufacturer’s Name: Nishi Tofu-ya. made in Hawaii aft er the Hawaiian Islands were a territory of Manufacturer’s Address: 87 Japanese Alley, Sacramento, the United States. California. Date of Introduction: 1905. 8. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1905. Manufacturer’s Name: Minato-ya. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Manufacturer’s Address: 24½ Quincy St., San Francisco, Directory entry p. 10. Also in 1907, Directory p. 55. Also in California. 1908, Directory p. 67 (Japanese numbers). Also in the 1909 Date of Introduction: 1905. Yearbook, Directory entry p. 39 (same address, except it was New Product–Documentation: Zaibei Nippon-jin Nenkan called “87 Jap Alley”). (Th e Japanese-American Yearbook). 1905. No. 1. Published Note: Th is is the earliest known Japanese tofu maker in by Mr. Kyutaro Abiko, of Nichibei [Shinbun], Japanese- the continental United States (one of three). American News. Page 10. Under the category heading “Tofu Shops (Tofu-ya)” is listed Minato-ya, 24½ Quincy St., San 11. Product Name: Tofu. Francisco. No owner is listed. Also in 1906, p. 14. Manufacturer’s Name: Okumura Kuraoka Tofu-ya [Tofu Note 1. Th is is the earliest known Japanese tofu maker in Shop]. Renamed Okumura Tofu-ya by 1906. the continental United States (one of three). Manufacturer’s Address: 632 N. 6th St., San Jose, California. Note 2. (1) Quincy St. is a small alley between Kearny Date of Introduction: 1905. St. and Grant Ave. near California. It still exists (1989). (2) New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1905. Mr. Oka, head of the History Room, Japan Cultural and Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Community Center, says this was probably a restaurant that Directory entry p. 24. Ad (1/32 page). On an unnumbered made tofu on the side. (3). Th is was before the earthquake page in the block of ads aft er Directory p. 28. Th is tofu and before Quong Hop & Co. company is owned and run by Ichitaro (spell?) Okumura, and Kinsaku Kuraoka. Also in 1906, p. 38. But the name is 9. Product Name: Tofu. now “Okumura Tofu-ya.” Note: Nomitsu Tofu-ya was at this Manufacturer’s Name: Murata-ten. Renamed Murata Tofu-ya address in 1912. by 1906. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 51, Isleton, California. 12. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1905. Manufacturer’s Name: Shintaro Kodama. Manufacturer’s Address: 446 Jackson St., Los Angeles, California. Date of Introduction: 1905. New Product–Documentation: Zaibei Nippon-jin Nenkan (Th e Japanese-American Yearbook). 1905. No. 1. Published by Mr. Kyutaro Abiko, of Nichibei [Shinbun], Japanese- American News. Page 34. Under the category heading “Fish Retailers and Tofu Shops (Sakana-ya, Tofu-ya)” are listed two companies. Th e fi rst is Santa Monica Sakana-ya, clearly a fi sh retailer. Th e second is Shintarô Kodama, but no specifi c mention is made of tofu in his company name. Th ese companies were probably grouped together because they sold fresh, perishable foods. Note: Th is is the earliest known Japanese tofu maker in the continental United States (one of three).

New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1905. 13. Product Name: Sugita Shoyu [Soy Sauce]. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Manufacturer’s Name: Sugita Jozo-sho (Sugita Brewery). Directory entry p. 22. A 1/6 page ad (square, on unnumbered Manufacturer’s Address: 569 Tyler (Taylor?) St., San Jose,

California. Date of Introduction: 1905. Date of Introduction: 1905. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Hojin Katsuyaku- New Product–Documentation: Zaibei Nippon-jin Nenkan shi, Meiji 41-42 [Japanese who play an active role in Hawaii, (Th e Japanese-American Yearbook). 1905. No. 1. Published 1908-09]. 1915. Oct. Lists Hawaii Shoyu K.K. as a soy sauce by Mr. Kyutaro Abiko, of Nichibei [Shinbun], Japanese- brewer on King St., Palawa, Honolulu. Th e ad on page 39 American News. 1905. Page 24, under the category heading notes that in Taihso 4 (1915) the company produced 3,500 “Jozosho” (Breweries), lists Sugita Jozo-sho, 569 Tyler Street, koku (1 koku = 180 liters or 47.6 gallons), so 630,000 liters or San Jose, California. An unnumbered page in the same 1905 166,600 gallons of shoyu. edition states that there are currently two shoyu breweries in Shogoro Fujin. 1937. Dainihon Kaigai Iminshi (Great San Jose. Th is must mean Yamamori and Sugita. History of Japanese Immigration Overseas). Published by Kaigai Chosakai. Vol. 2. p. 95. Gives a brief life history of 14. Product Name: Soy Sauce. Nobuyuki Yamakami and states that in 1905 in Honolulu Manufacturer’s Name: Yamajo Soy Co. [Yamajo Shoyu he founded Yamakami Shoyu Jozo-sho, which succeeded. Seizojo]. He later changed the company’s name to Hawaii Shoyu Manufacturer’s Address: Pua Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Kaisha. He called the shoyu “kenfu.” which means “wise wife/ Date of Introduction: 1905. women.” How Stored: Shelf stable. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” States Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1907. p. 609. Yamajo that the company was founded in 1906 by Mr. Yamagami/ Soy Co., Nobuyuki Yamakami, mngr. Pua Lane, [Honolulu]. Yamakami Nobuyuki and Tashiro Kumataro. Two entries following: Yamakami, N., mgr, Yamajo Soy Co., F. Odo and K. Sinoto. 1985. A Pictorial History of the residence King, near Palama Chapel. Note: No listing in Japanese in Hawaii, 1885-1924. A photo (p. 166) shows 1905-06 Directory, which is the earliest at Sutro library. 1908 the inside of the Hawaii Shoyu Co. (Hawaii Shoyu Kaisha) Directory. Yamajo Soy & Sauce Co. Ltd. Th e, Pua Lane. 1909 on King Street in Palama, Honolulu, taken in about 1914. Directory. p. 602. Company name has changed to Yamajo Soy Th e caption reads: “Th e Japanese is Hawaii depended upon and Sauce Manufacturing Co. Ltd., N. Yamakami, mngr, Pua shoyu imported from Japan until Nobuyuki Yamashiro [sic, Lane near Kukui. Krauss. 1909. Hawaii Agric. Exp. Station, Yamakami] started making shoyu in 1904. His company was Annual Report. p. 16, 83-85. For the year 1908. States that established as Hawaii Shoyu Co. in 1906. American Shoyu “Seed of two other [soybean] varieties were [sic] donated by Co. was established in Honolulu in 1912.” the Hawaiian Yamajo Soy Company of Honolulu.” Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. 16. Alviso Co. (Th e) 1905. Dealer in Japanese American “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” States provisions, dry goods and merchandise (Ad). In: Nichibei that the company was founded in 1905 by Mr. Nobuyuki Shinbun-sha. 1905. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese- Yamakami. American Yearbook]. Unnumbered page near the end. [Jap; F. Odo and K. Sinoto. 1985. A Pictorial History of the eng] Japanese in Hawaii, 1885-1924. A photo (p. 166) shows the • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e central 1/8 of this ad is in inside of the Hawaii Shoyu Co. (Hawaii Shoyu Kaisha) on English. Th is company sells various goods including miso King Street in Palama, Honolulu, taken in about 1914. Th e and shoyu. Th e Japanese title across the top: “Great bargain caption reads: “Th e Japanese in Hawaii depended upon prices. You’ll be surprised!” An illustration shows two fl ags, shoyu imported from Japan until Nobuyuki Yamashiro [sic, Japanese and American, crossed. Address: P.O. Box 15, Yamakami] started making shoyu in 1904.” His company was Alviso, Santa Clara Co., California. established as Hawaii Shoyu Co. in 1906. American Shoyu Co. was established in Honolulu in 1912. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 17. Aoki (George) & Co. 1905. Direct importers of rice and 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 234. Letter from Takao tea: Gents. furnishing goods (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun- Nihei. 1988. July 19. “Th ere was a record showing that Mr. sha. 1905. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Shimada was the fi rst to make shoyu in Hawaii. But he closed Yearbook]. Unnumbered page. [Jap] soon aft er he started. Th erefore I think that the fi rst person • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e top 1/3 of this ad is in who succeeded was Mr. Nobuyuki Yamakami.” English and includes a photo showing a man with a sash and many medals, probably George Aoki. Th is company 15. Product Name: Kenfu Shoyu. imports various goods including (exclusively) shoyu made Manufacturer’s Name: Yamakami Shoyu Jozo-sho. Renamed by Nakayama Kankichi (spell?) and Oota Kyusuke. Th ey are Hawaiian Soy Co. Ltd. (Hawaii Shoyu K.K.) by 1909. wholesale and retail dealers. Address: 437-439 DuPont St., Manufacturer’s Address: N. King St., Honolulu, Oahu, San Francisco, California. Phone: Bush 865. Cable address: Hawaii. Aoki.

is about sake. Concerning shoyu: Shoyu is one of the daily 18. Product Name: Tofu. necessities for Japanese. It is the 3rd largest item imported Manufacturer’s Name: Ichino Tofu-ya. [probably aft er white rice and sake]. In Meiji 36 (1903) Manufacturer’s Address: 446 Jackson St., Los Angeles, the amount imported was 4,291 koku, 3 to and 5 sho California. worth $86,681 (see above). It is the No. 1 “direct import” Date of Introduction: 1905. January. because it is relatively easy to import due to its packaging, New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1906. documentation, basic liquid nature, and way of invoicing (it Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. does not require double invoicing). It is easy to sell; not much Directory entry p. 48. Also in 1907, p. 39. Th e phone is now capital is needed to stock it and it is a very popular item. Like Red 2022. Also in 1908, p. 44 (Japanese numbers). bread or fl our in U.S. groceries, it has a small profi t margin Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- and the stock turns over rapidly. Many varieties of shoyu American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 88. are imported from many parts of Japan: Choshi in Chiba prefecture, Hamaguchi Yoshibe, Sa-jirushi, Mogi Saheji’s 19. Nichibei Shinbun-sha (Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha). 1905. Yama Kikkoman in Noda (Chiba prefecture), Ka-jirushi, Zaibei Nihonjin nenkan [Japanese-American yearbook. Yamagata-hi, Sendai jirushi, and Bunmei jirushi. Th e best No. 1]. 234 Turk St., San Francisco, California. 345 p., many selling brands are those which are of medium price. Recently, unnumbered. Reprinted in 25 Oct. 2001 in Tokyo by Nihon in San Jose, Mr. Yamamori, started a shoyu making plant and Tosho Senta. Series: Nikkei Imin Shiryôshû. Dai 1-kai is working hard to make it successful. We look forward to [Collected Documents on Japanese Emigration. No. 1]. [Jap; receiving his product. eng] In San Jose, California, there are two shoyu makers (p. • Summary: Th is book is read and numbered from “back 156, bottom right). to front” compared with typical English books; it is mostly Th e Directory shows Japanese companies making (99%) in Japanese. Th ere is no English-language title page. soyfoods only in California. Th e company that publishes this yearbook also publishes Note: Th is is the earliest document seen (July 2011) that (at the same address) a daily newspaper titled Th e Japanese is a directory of Japanese living in the United States. Address: American. San Francisco, California. Th e book is composed of: 16 unnumbered pages of ads and basic information; page 14 is “About this publication, 20. Sakura-fu Co. 1905. Sakura-fu Co. (Ad). In: Nichibei and pages 15-16 are the table of contents, 12 unnumbered Shinbun-sha. 1905. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese- leaves of black and white photos (including two maps, in American Yearbook]. Unnumbered page. [Jap; eng] Japanese, of northern and southern California, on glossy • Summary: Ad (½ page). Th e central ¼ is in English. Th is paper), 192 pages which are the body of the book, a directory trading company sells various goods including shoyu, miso, interspersed with 80 pages of ads in groups of either 16 or 32 and shiro / white sake (shiro-zake) and sake. Th ey are also a pages. shipping company. Th e table of contents reads: 1. Census of Japan and A full-page ad in the 1908 yearbook states: “Sakura-fu USA (both population and agriculture). 2. U.S. law. 3. Shôkai. Direct importers of all kinds of provisions. KSK. U.S. agriculture as it relates to Japanese. 4. Commerce. 5. 1014–1016–1018 3rd St., Sacramento, California. Tel. Sunset Education and religion. 6. Cities in which a signifi cant Vale 1566.” Th ey also sell retail. Th ey still sell miso and shoyu, number of Japanese live. 7. Statistics. 8. Japanese farmers but shiro sake / white sake is not mentioned. Address: 1014 in U.S. agriculture. Appendix: Directory and index to the Th ird St., Sacramento, California. Phone: Vale 1566. directory. Sources are cited: U.S. Agricultural Census for 1900. 21. Tuck Wo. Co. (Tokuwago Shoten). 1905. Tuck Wo. Co. Trade information from Japan’s Dept. of the Treasury (Tokuwago Shoten) (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1905. (Ökurasho) and the U.S. Dept. of Commerce. Th en there is Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. a 2nd table of contents for the directory, listing diff erent city Unnumbered page in the block of ads aft er Directory p. 28. place names, by state. Th is directory was compiled by this [Jap; eng] newspaper using every means at their disposal. • Summary: Ad (¼-page). Th is company sell various goods Imports of Japanese shoyu (soy sauce) to the USA were including shoyu and miso. Th e company name and address 429,135 sho worth $86,681. Note: 1 sho = 10 go = 1.8000 are in given in both English and Chinese. Th is ad also appears liters. So this amount is 772,443 liters or 203,925 gallons in the 1906 yearbook, and in the 1907 yearbook (near the (p. 136). A signifi cant amount of Japanese miso was also end, p. 36). Address: 33 Cleveland Ave., San Jose, California. imported but this yearbook was unable to get the exact Phone: James 3821. statistics (p. 136). Th e top half of p. 137 is about shoyu; the bottom half 22. Product Name: Soy sauce.

Manufacturer’s Name: Hawaiian Soy Co. Ltd. (Hawaii Shoyu opened a grocery store. Paul thinks the family stayed in San K.K.). Formerly named Yamakami Shoyu Jozo-sho. Francisco until the earthquake, then they moved to near Manufacturer’s Address: Pua Lane near King, Honolulu, Treat Blvd. near Walnut Creek. Th ey worked for a farmer Oahu, Hawaii. for a short time. Th en they moved to Sacramento, where Date of Introduction: 1906-1909. Jitsutaro again opened a grocery store. Paul recalls hearing New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of that his grandfather made tofu in San Francisco and peddled Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1909. p. 255. Hawaiian it along with other groceries out of a horse-drawn cart; Paul’s Soy Co. Ltd., W. Motoshige, president. N. Yamakami, vice father, as a young boy, went along to protect Jitsutaro from president. B. Hayashi, secretary. H. Miyake, treasurer. Y. unfriendly Caucasians. Paul imagines that his grandfather Takakua, aud. [auditor?]. Note: Th at year N. [Nobuyuki] would probably also have made tofu in Sacramento. Yamakami was also manager of Yamajo Soy and Sauce Manufacturing Co. Ltd., which was also on Pua Lane. 1916 24. Aoki (George) & Co. 1906. Geo. Aoki & Co. (Ad). In: Directory. Hawaiian Soy Co. Ltd., 1136 Pua Lane. Hawaii Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1906. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan Hojin Katsuyaku-shi, Meiji 41-42 [Japanese who play an [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Unnumbered page near the active role in Hawaii, 1908-09]. 1915. Oct. p. 39. Contains front. [Jap; eng] an ad for Hawaii Shoyu K.K. at King St., Pua Lane, Hawaii. • Summary: Ad (full page). Th is company imports various Gives their production of shoyu in 1915 (Taisho 4) as 3,500 goods including (exclusively) shoyu made by Nakayama koku. Since 1 koku is 47.6 gallons or 180 liters, this is 166,600 Kankichi and Oota Kyusuke. An illustration shows a sack of gallons, or 630,000 liters. “Choice Japan Table Rice No. 1, 100 lb, from Japan.” Address: F. Odo and K. Sinoto. 1985. A Pictorial History of the 437-439 DuPont St., San Francisco, California. Phone: Bush Japanese in Hawaii, 1885-1924. A photo (p. 166) shows 865. the inside of the Hawaii Shoyu Co. (Hawaii Shoyu Kaisha) on King Street in Palama, Honolulu, taken in about 1914. 25. Karihorunia Company [California Co.]. 1906. Th e caption reads: “Th e Japanese is Hawaii depended upon Karihorunia Company [California Co.] (Ad). In: Nichibei shoyu imported from Japan until Nobuyuki Yamashiro [sic, Shinbun-sha. 1906. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese- Yamakami] started making shoyu in 1904. His company was American Yearbook]. Unnumbered page near the front. [Jap; established as Hawaii Shoyu Co. in 1906. American Shoyu eng] Co. was established in Honolulu in 1912.” • Summary: Ad (full page). Th ey are an import, export, and wholesale company. “Direct importers of tea and rice. 23. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturers of Japan miso.” Th eir miso manufacturing Manufacturer’s Name: Hayashi Tofu-ya. company is named California Miso Seizô-sho, located at 262 Manufacturer’s Address: San Francisco, California. Brannan St. Th ey also sell various goods including miso. Date of Introduction: 1906. Address: 149 California St., San Francisco, California. Phone: New Product–Documentation: Talk with Mr. Seizo Oka, Red 1002. Head, History Room, Japanese Cultural and Community Center, San Francisco. 1989. Dec. 5. He has talked with Mrs. 26. Product Name: Miso. Sumiko Kawashima (maiden name Oye/Ohye) who now lives Manufacturer’s Name: Karuhorunia Miso Seizo-jo in Hinode Tower. Her father, Mr. Masuzo Oye was an early [California Miso Manufacturing Co.]. tofu maker in San Francisco. Before him, one of the earliest Manufacturer’s Address: 262 Brannan St., San Francisco, in San Francisco was said to be Jitsutaro Hayashi. Mrs. California. Phone: Red 1002. Kawashima thinks that Mr. Hayashi started making tofu in Date of Introduction: 1906. January. San Francisco in about 1906. New Product–Documentation: Ad (full page) in Nichibei Talk with Dr. Paul Hayashi. 1989. Dec. 5. Paul lives Shinbun-sha. 1906. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese- in Orinda, California (phone: 254-5074). Paul’s paternal American Yearbook]. Unnumbered page near the front. Th ey grandfather was Jitsutaro Hayashi. He emigrated from are: “Direct importers of tea and rice. Manufacturers of Japan Japan to Hawaii, where he worked as a cook on Grove miso.” Th eir miso company is named California Miso Seizô- Farm Plantation for the Wilcox family, who had bought the sho. Th ey also sell various goods including miso. plantation from General Grove. His fi rst two sons had been born at the plantation. Tokutaro “Terry” Hayashi, Paul’s 27. Product Name: Tofu. father, was born in 1893 in Hawaii (He later graduated from Manufacturer’s Name: Kawaoka Tofu-ya. the University of California Dental School in 1917; he died Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 128, Lodi, California. several years ago). Th en Jitsutaro moved into Honolulu, Date of Introduction: 1906. January. where he started a small grocery store. Aft er a short time, New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1906. the family moved to San Francisco, where Jitsutaro again Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook].

Directory entry p. 33. Also in 1907, p. 59. right) and a shoyu (soy sauce) maker in San Jose (p. 189, top Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- right); last year Yamamori Shoyu Jozo-sho made 1,000 koku American Yearbook]. Census entry p. 152. Un-named of shoyu. Note: 1 koku = 10 sho = 180 liters. Th erefore the Japanese tofu maker. Male owner and no employees. Also in company made 180,000 liters of shoyu. Since 1 liter = 0.264 1910. Census entry p. 178. Female owner and no employees. gallons, this is 47,520 gallons of shoyu. Th ere is 1 tofu shop in Florin (p. 203, top right) and two 28. Product Name: Tofu. tofu shops in Isleton (p. 204, top right). Manufacturer’s Name: Kitayama Tofu-ten. Th e Directory shows Japanese companies making Manufacturer’s Address: 610 S. Sixth St., Seattle, Washington. soyfoods in California and Washington state. It is preceded Date of Introduction: 1906. January. by an index of the Directory. Address: San Francisco, New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1906. California. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 56. 32. Takemoto Shoten. 1906. Takemoto Shoten (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1906. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan 29. Product Name: Tofu. [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Unnumbered page near the Manufacturer’s Name: Mano Tofu-ten. front. [Jap] Manufacturer’s Address: 413½ Maynard St., Seattle, • Summary: Ad (full page). In big Chinese characters the Washington. ad says “New Year’s Greetings.” Th ey sell various goods Date of Introduction: 1906. January. including miso and shoyu. A small illustration shows some New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1906. bamboo leaves, with snow on them and a little bird fl ying. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Address: P.O. Box 332, Gilroy, California. Phone: Main 334. Directory entry p. 56. 33. Teikoku Shokai. 1906. Teikoku Shokai (Ad). In: Nichibei 30. Product Name: Tofu. Shinbun-sha. 1906. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese- Manufacturer’s Name: Murata Tofu-ya. American Yearbook]. Unnumbered page near the front. [Jap] Manufacturer’s Address: 226 Jackson St., San Jose, California. • Summary: Ad (full page). Th is company, owned by USHIO Date of Introduction: 1906. January. Mankichi and KUBO Sakujiro, imports various goods New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1906. directly including miso and shoyu. An illustration shows two Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. crossed fl ags; one is the fl ag of Japan. Address: 802 Stockton Directory entry p. 38. Note: Mitsunaga Tofu-ya was at this St., San Francisco, California. Phone: Main 5556. address in 1909. 34. Woenne (W.M.). 1906. W.M. Woenne (Ad). In: Nichibei 31. Nichibei Shinbun-sha (Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha). 1906. Shinbun-sha. 1906. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese- Zaibei Nihonjin nenkan [Japanese-American yearbook. American Yearbook]. Unnumbered page near the front. [Jap; No. 2]. 234 Turk St., San Francisco, California. 345 p., many eng] unnumbered. Reprinted in 25 Oct. 2001 in Tokyo by Nihon • Summary: Ad (half page). In big Chinese characters the ad Tosho Senta. Series: Nikkei Imin Shiryôshû. Dai 1-kai says “Happy New Year.” Th ey sell various goods including [Collected Documents on Japanese Emigration. No. 1]. [Jap; miso and shoyu. Address: Mt. Eden, Alameda, California. eng] • Summary: Th is book is read and numbered from “back 35. Product Name: Shoyu. to front” compared with typical English books; it is mostly Manufacturer’s Name: Fukushima Shoyu Brewery (99%) in Japanese. Th ere is an English-language title page. [Fukushima Shoyu Jojosho]. Th e book is composed of: 4 unnumbered pages of front Manufacturer’s Address: 602 Coral, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. matter, 4 unnumbered leaves of black and white photos Date of Introduction: 1907. (mostly of San Francisco) on glossy paper, 20 unnumbered New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of pages of ads and basic information, of which the 4th to last Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1907. p. 275. page is why and how they wrote this book (they got a lot of “Fukushima, Yasuhachi, soy, Coral near govt. stables. help from people in various areas to gather data, although no Residence: Same. 1908 Directory. Fukushima Soy Factory, names or places are given), and of which the last two pages Coral near Queen. are the table of contents, 224 numbered pages which are the 1909 Directory. Fukushima, Y., Coral near Queen. body of the book, 44 unnumbered pages of ads, 59 pages of Residence: Same. Hawaii Hojin Katsuyaku-shi, Meiji 41-42 directory interspersed with 50 pages of ads in groups of either (Japanese who play an active role in Hawaii, 1908-09). 1915. 16 or 32 pages. Oct. Lists Fukushima Shoyu Jozosho as a soy sauce brewer. Th ere is a tofu shop in San Francisco (p. 183, bottom 1916 Directory. Fukushima, Y., mauka 614 Coral.

Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1954. Date of Introduction: 1907. p. 255. Fukushima Shoyu Brewery. Th omas Y. Kano. 602 New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1907. Coral. 1955 Directory. Fukushima Soy Brewery. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 55. Also in 1908, Directory p. 67 (Japanese 36. Product Name: Tofu. numbers). Manufacturer’s Name: Fukushima Tofu-ya. Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- Manufacturer’s Address: 228 N. East St., Visalia, California. American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 39. But the address is Date of Introduction: 1907. now 1222 Th ird St. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1907. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. 41. Product Name: Tofu. Directory entry p. 52. Manufacturer’s Name: Tofu oyobi Mochi-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 265 24th St., Ogden, Utah. 37. Product Name: Shoyu. Date of Introduction: 1907. Manufacturer’s Name: Hirao, H. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1907. Manufacturer’s Address: Kahului, Maui, Hawaii. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Date of Introduction: 1907. Directory entry p. 72. Note 1. Oyobi means “and.” Mochi New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of means “pounded glutinous rice cake.” Ya means “shop.” So, Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1909. p. 759. “Hirao, this shop makes tofu and mochi. H., soy, Kahului” [Maui]. Not listed in 1907. Note 2. Th is is the earliest document seen (Aug. 2007) concerning soybeans in Utah. Th is document contains the 38. Product Name: Tofu. earliest date seen for soybeans in Utah (1907). Th e source of Manufacturer’s Name: Murakami Tofu-ten. these soybeans is unknown. A tofu shop must have soybeans Manufacturer’s Address: 140 Main St., Watsonville, in order to make tofu. California. Date of Introduction: 1907. 42. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1907. Manufacturer’s Name: Ueno Tofu-ya. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Manufacturer’s Address: 632 N. 6th St., San Jose, California. Directory entry p. 28. Also in 1908, p. 29 (Japanese numbers). Date of Introduction: 1907. But the address is now 138 Main St. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1907. Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 102. But Directory entry p. 23. Also in 1908, Directory p. 60 (Japanese the entry now reads: Murakami Tofu-ya, 138 Main St. Also in numbers). Note: Okumura Tofu-ya was at this address in 1911 directory, p. 100. Also in 1912, p. 126. Also in 1913, p. 1906. 150. Also in 1914, p. 156. 43. Product Name: Miso. 39. Product Name: Shoyu [soy sauce]. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamane Miso, Sakana Sho (Fish Manufacturer’s Name: Sa-shi Shoyu Jozo-sho. Renamed Shop). Sanoze (San Jose) Shoyu Jozo-sho by 1908. Manufacturer’s Address: 309½ L St., Sacramento, California. Manufacturer’s Address: 561 N. 6th St., San Jose, California. Date of Introduction: 1907. Date of Introduction: 1907. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1907. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1907. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 56. Note: Th is company makes miso and Directory entry p. 23. Note: “Sa-shi” is the Japanese sells fi sh. Also in 1908, Directory p. 68 (Japanese numbers). abbreviation for “San Jose City.” Address is now given as 309 L Street. Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1908. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory p. 60 (Japanese 44. Product Name: Tofu. numbers). / Note: Japanese Shoyu was fi rst made at this Manufacturer’s Name: Akiguchi Tofu-ya. address as early as 1897 by Yamamori Jozo-sho (Yamamori Manufacturer’s Address: Tesla Coal Mine, 12 miles SE of Brewery). Livermore, California. Date of Introduction: 1907. January. 40. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1907. Manufacturer’s Name: Shinoda Tofu-ya. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Manufacturer’s Address: 1218 Th ird St., Sacramento, Directory entry p. 22. Note: Coal was discovered here in California. 1855. Today its hard to believe that this pastoral scene once

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 28 supported over 200 buildings and 1,500 inhabitants. In 46. Tokyo Shoyu Tonya-ken Yushutsu Nyugyo. 1907. Tokyo 1890 John Treadwell, a millionaire gold miner, opened the Shoyu Tonya-ken Yushutsu Nyugyo [Tokyo Shoyu {Soy Tesla coal mines. Aft er fi ve years of development work and Sauce} Wholesale Export and Import Co. (Ad)]. In: Nichibei building a railroad to Stockton, Treadwell organized the San Shinbun-sha. 1907. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese- Francisco and San Joaquin Coal Company. Two years later, American Yearbook]. Page 14 (Japanese numbers) near the the fi rst trainload of Tesla coal rolled into Stockton. Th e front. [Jap] mine produced over 80,000 tons of coal per year over the • Summary: Ad (half page, vertical). San Francisco branch next ten years, during which time Tesla became the leading representative, ICHIDA Risuke, 1905 Bush St., San Francisco, coal producer in California. In 1897, John Treadwell named California. Okada Shoten & Co. (Gomei Gaisha; an unlimited the town for Nikola Tesla, a famous electrical inventor, partnership) represents the Kikkoman brand as well as other who was fi rst to harness the use of alternating currents. shoyu makers from the towns of Noda and Choshi; we sell Treadwell planned to use Tesla’s invention to send electricity their products and we also export. Address: Koami-cho 3 to Bay Area cities from a coal-burning power plant at Tesla. chome 19 banchi, Nihonbashi, Tokyo. However, this plan never materialized for fear of competing with California’s new hydroelectric power plants. Instead, 47. Product Name: Shoyu [Soy Sauce]. Treadwell built the fi rst successful plant to make briquettes Manufacturer’s Name: Hokubei Shoyu Kabushiki-gaisha (from coal) in the United States; the plant operated from (Hokubei Soy Sauce, Inc.). 1901 to 1905, when a fi re destroyed the plant and eventually Manufacturer’s Address: 1615 Gough St., San Francisco, forced coal mining to shut down at Tesla in 1911. Tesla then California. became a ghost town. Date of Introduction: 1908. January. New Product–Documentation: Rafu Shinposha. 1908. 45. Nichibei Shinbun-sha (Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha). 1907. Rafu Nenkan [Rafu Shinpo Japanese-American year book]. Zaibei Nihonjin nenkan [Japanese-American yearbook. Directory, p. 55. Th e company name is written in Japanese No. 3]. 234 Turk St., San Francisco, California. 398 p., many characters. Th e address is in English. No phone number is unnumbered. Reprinted in 25 Oct. 2001 in Tokyo by Nihon given. Tosho Senta. Series: Nikkei Imin Shiryôshû. Dai 1-kai Note: It is surprising that the San Francisco-based [Collected Documents on Japanese Emigration. No. 1]. [Jap; directory Nichibei Nenkan never mentioned this fi rst soy eng] sauce maker in San Francisco, whereas the Los Angeles • Summary: Th is book is read and numbered from “back directory did. However Nichibei Nenkan did list a company to front” compared with typical English books; it is mostly with this name across the San Francisco Bay in Fruitvale (99%) in Japanese. Th ere is an English-language title page. (today a neighborhood in eastern Oakland), California, but at Th e book is composed of: 4 unnumbered pages of front a diff erent street address. Th en in Jan. 1919 a company with a matter, 6 unnumbered leaves of black and white photos very similar name–Hokubei Miso, Shoyu Seizô Oroshi Kouri (mostly taken aft er the San Francisco earthquake and fi re) (North American Mfg. Co.)–started making miso in Los on glossy paper, 18 pages of ads and basic information, Angeles at 519 East 1st St. Could these three all be one in the numbered using Japanese numbers (NUJN), of which the same shoyu maker? last two pages are the table of contents, 176 numbered pages which are the body of the book, 84 unnumbered pages of ads, 48. Product Name: Miso, Koji. 75 pages of directory (preceded by an index of the directory) Manufacturer’s Name: Kodama Miso Seizo-sho. NUJN, 35 pages of ads and back matter NUJN. Manufacturer’s Address: 310 Crocker St., Los Angeles, Th ere are two tofu shops in San Jose, California, and California. Phone: MAin 3820. also two breweries (jozo-sho). Note: One may have been for Date of Introduction: 1908. January. brewing shoyu and the other for sake (p. 153). Th e San Jose New Product–Documentation: Rafu Shinposha. 1908. Rafu shoyu maker [Sa-shi Shoyu Jozo-sho] helped Komada Shoten Nenkan [Rafu Shinpo Japanese-American year book]. Ad, [probably not a shoyu maker] in San Francisco last year. unnumbered page near front. Suri-miso, shiro koji seizo Although they used wheat and salt made in the U.S., they had oroshi-uri. Rafu, Kurakka-gai 310. Denwa Meen 3820 to get soybeans and also the bamboo hoops for the wooden [Ground miso. White koji maker and wholesaler]. Directory kegs (taru) from Japan. It cost them over 50 cents to make entry, p. 43. one wooden keg; that’s a problem (p. 154, top right). Th ere is Note 1. Th is is the earliest known miso manufacturer in one tofu shop in Watsonville (p. 154, bottom center). Los Angeles or in California. Note 2. “Rafu” is the Japanese Th e Directory shows Japanese companies making nickname for Los Angeles. soyfoods in California and Utah. Address: San Francisco, California. 49. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Sakana-ya, Tofu-ya Nakakuma

(Nakaguma?) (Nakakuma Fish and Tofu shop). California. Phone: Broadway 1910. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 15, Santa Anita (near Los Date of Introduction: 1908. Angeles), California. New Product–Documentation: Rafu Shinposha. 1908. Date of Introduction: 1908. January. Rafu Nenkan [Rafu Shinpo Japanese-American year book]. New Product–Documentation: Rafu Shinposha. 1908. Rafu Directory, p. 43. Hirano Tofu-ya, 446 Jackson St. Phone: Nenkan [Rafu Shinpo Japanese-American year book]. Ad, Broadway 1910. unnumbered page near front. Sakana-ya, Tofu-ya Nakakuma Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. Nichi-Bei Nenkan (Nakaguma?), Ka-shuu Santa Anita Yuubako 15 Yûgô [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 91. Also (ariawase?), Oryori, Udon and Soba Restaurant. (Nakakuma in 1913, p. 126. Phone: A 2896. Note: Ichino Tofu-ya was at Fish and Tofu shop. P.O. Box 15, Santa Anita). this address from 1905 to 1909 (Directory entry p. 88). Also Note: Th e word ariawase in Japanese means “what you in 1912 directory, p. 115. happen to have on hand at home.” So when welcoming honored guests to the dining table, Japanese love to say 52. Product Name: Tofu. humbly: Kore was ariawase no mono desu ga omeshiagari Manufacturer’s Name: Inoue Tofu-ya. kudasai. Th is might be translated: “I made this with some Manufacturer’s Address: 108 N. San Pedro St., Los Angeles, things I happened to have on hand at home, but I hope you California. Phone: Main 1948. can enjoy it.” Th us, this restaurant may feature home cookin.’ Date of Introduction: 1908. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1908. 50. Product Name: Miso. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Manufacturer’s Name: Hawaiian Yamajo Soy Company. Directory p. 44 (Japanese numbers). Manufacturer’s Address: Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1908. 53. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Krauss. 1909. Hawaii Agric. Manufacturer’s Name: Kodama Tofu-ya. Exp. Station, Annual Report. p. 83. “Seed of two other Manufacturer’s Address: 600 N. 6th St., San Jose, California. [soybean] varieties were donated by the Hawaiian Yamajo Date of Introduction: 1908. Soy Company of Honolulu. One of these, a green seeded New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1908. type, has been grown in the Kona district of Hawaii for Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. some years; the other, a yellow seeded variety, was imported Directory p. 60 (Japanese numbers). direct from Japan. Th e seed of both these varieties is used in Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- the manufacture of the Japanese food product, “Miso,” and American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 109. Also in 1911 other preparations.” [Note: It is not clearly stated that Yamajo directory, p. 109, but the address is now 602 N. 6th St. makes miso. But some company in Hawaii was making miso at this time]. For the year 1908. Mr. Yamakami was manager. 54. Product Name: Tofu. Husted’s Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Manufacturer’s Name: Kurata Tofu-ya. Hawaii. 1907. p. 609. Yamajo Soy Co., Nobuyuki Yamakami, Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 325, Salinas, California. mngr. Pua Lane, [Honolulu]. Two entries following: Date of Introduction: 1908. Yamakami, N., mgr, Yamajo Soy Co., residence King, near New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1908. Palama Chapel. Note: No listing in 1905-06 Directory. 1909 Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory. p. 602. Company name has changed to Yamajo Soy Directory p. 31 (Japanese numbers). and Sauce Manufacturing Co. Ltd., N. Yamakami, mngr, Pua Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- Lane near Kukui. Note: Again no clear statement that Yamajo American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 105. made miso. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. 55. Product Name: Tofu. p. 234. In 1898 Hawaii was annexed as a U.S. Territory, so Manufacturer’s Name: Mitsunaga Tofu-ya. this company could be considered the earliest known miso Manufacturer’s Address: 226 Jackson St., San Jose, California. manufacturer in the USA. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Phone: Black 1861. Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, Date of Introduction: 1908. shoyu no rekishi.” He lists this company as having been New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1908. founded in Honolulu in 1905, as a shoyu maker but not as a Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. miso maker. Directory p. 60 (Japanese numbers). Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- 51. Product Name: Tofu. American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 109. Manufacturer’s Name: Hirano Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 446 Jackson St., Los Angeles, 56. Product Name: Tofu.

Manufacturer’s Name: Ogawa Tofu-ya. sha. 1908. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Manufacturer’s Address: 149 Vine St. / 149 N. Central Ave., Yearbook]. Page 11 (Japanese numbers) near the front. [Jap] Los Angeles, California. • Summary: Ad (full page). Food wholesaler. ICHIDA Risuke. Date of Introduction: 1908. Tokyo Shoyu Tonya-ken Yushutsu Nyugyo [Tokyo Shoyu New Product–Documentation: Rafu Shinposha. 1908. Wholesale Export and Import Co.] Gomei Kaisha. Okada Rafu Nenkan [Rafu Shinpo Japanese-American year book]. Shoten. Address: Koami-cho 3 chome 19 banchi, Nihonbashi, Directory, p. 43. Ogawa Tofu-ya, 149 Vine St. No phone. Tokyo. San Francisco branch representative, ICHIDA Risuke, Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1908. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan 1905 Bush St., San Francisco, California. Okada Shoten [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory p. 44 (Japanese represents the Kikkoman brand as well as other shoyu makers numbers). from the towns of Noda and Choshi; we sell their products Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- and we also export. Address: 1905 Bush St., San Francisco, American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 88. Address: 149 N. California. Central Ave., Los Angeles, California. 61. Nichibei Shinbun-sha (Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha). 1908. 57. Product Name: Tofu. Zaibei Nihonjin nenkan [Japanese-American yearbook. Manufacturer’s Name: Sankaku (Mitsuno? Sankado?) Tofu- No. 4]. 234 Turk St., San Francisco, California. 491 p., many ya / Konmaasharu (Commercial) Tofu. unnumbered. Reprinted in 25 Oct. 2001 in Tokyo by Nihon Manufacturer’s Address: 315½ Commercial St., Los Angeles, Tosho Senta. Series: Nikkei Imin Shiryôshû. Dai 1-kai California. Phone: Broadway 3757. [Collected Documents on Japanese Emigration. No. 1]. [Jap; Date of Introduction: 1908. eng] New Product–Documentation: Rafu Shinposha. 1908. • Summary: Th is book is read and numbered from “back Rafu Nenkan [Rafu Shinpo Japanese-American year book]. to front” compared with typical English books; it is mostly Directory, p. 43. Sankaku (Mitsuno? Sankado?) Tofu-ya, (99%) in Japanese. Th ere is an English-language title page. 315½ Commercial St., Tel: Broadway 4757. Th e book is composed of: 4 unnumbered pages of front Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1908. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan matter, 3 unnumbered leaves of black and white photos (two [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory p. 44 (Japanese show before and aft er the San Francisco earthquake and numbers). Konmaasharu Tofu. fi re) on glossy paper, 20 pages of ads and basic information, numbered using Japanese numbers (NUJN), of which the 58. Product Name: Tofu. last four pages are the table of contents, 210 numbered pages Manufacturer’s Name: Tsukamoto Tofu-ya. which are the body of the book, 84 pages of ads NUJN, 6 Manufacturer’s Address: 128 E. First St., Reno, Nevada. unnumbered pages of index and ads, 95 pages of directory Date of Introduction: 1908. NUJN, 37 pages of ads and back matter NUJN. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1908. Th e import tax on shoyu is either 40% or 4% (unclear, Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. p. 48). Th ere is one tofu shop near (but not in) Oakland, Directory p. 86 (Japanese numbers). Th e address is now given California (p. 180, lower right). Th ere are three tofu shops in as 128 E. Front St., Reno. San Jose, one in Watsonville, one in Salinas, and a brewery Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- [that may make shoyu and sake] in San Jose (p. 182). American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 121. Th e Directory shows Japanese companies making Note: Th is is the earliest document seen (Aug. 2007) soyfoods in California and Nevada (Reno). Address: San concerning soybeans in Nevada. Th is document contains Francisco, California. the earliest date seen for soybeans in Nevada (1909). Th e source of these soybeans is unknown. A tofu shop must have 62. Product Name: Miso, and Shoyu [soy sauce]. soybeans in order to make tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Sanyo Shokai. Renamed Sanyo Shoyu Jozo Gaisha by 1909. 59. Product Name: Shoyu [soy sauce]. Manufacturer’s Address: 920 Hight St., Melrose (near Manufacturer’s Name: Hokubei Shoyu Jozo K.K. Jozo-sho. Alameda), California. Manufacturer’s Address: 1217 Temple Ave., Fruitvale, Date of Introduction: 1908. January. California. New Product–Documentation: Ad (¼ page) in Nichibei Date of Introduction: 1908. January. Shinbun-sha. 1908. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese- New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1908. American Yearbook]. Page 14 (Japanese numbers) middle Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. block of ads. A maker of miso and shoyu {soy sauce} (Miso Directory page 25 (Japanese numbers). shoyu seizô-gyô). Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- 60. Ichida (R.). 1908. R. Ichida (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun- American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 31. Th e company

Address: San Francisco, California.

65. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Aramachi Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 1675 Sutter St., San Francisco, California. Date of Introduction: 1909. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 14.

66. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Fish & Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 416 Front Alley, Spokane, Washington. Date of Introduction: 1909. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 144.

67. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Hashii Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 108 N. San Pedro St., Los Angeles, California. Phone: Main 1948. Date of Introduction: 1909. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 88. Note: Inoue Tofu-ya was at this address and name is now given as Sanyo Shoyu Jozo Gaisha. Address: 920 phone number in 1908. Hight St., Melrose, California. Th e company no longer makes miso–only shoyu. Note: Melrose is on the mainland, just 68. Product Name: Tofu. northeast of Alameda (an island). As of Jan. 2008 Melrose Manufacturer’s Name: Hieda Tofu-ya. was part of central east Oakland, a city adjacent to Alameda. Manufacturer’s Address: 1620 Park St., Alameda, California. Date of Introduction: 1909. 63. Tsuda Shoten. 1908. Tsuda Shoten (Ad). In: Nichibei New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Shinbun-sha. 1908. Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan [Japanese- Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory American Yearbook]. p. 49, middle section of ads. [Jap; eng] entry p. 29. Note: Mizoda Tofu-ya was at this address in 1911. • Summary: Ad (half page). Th is company sells various goods including miso and shoyu. Address: 1020 Th ird St., 69. Product Name: Best Shoyu, Ikeda Shoyu, Maru-ichi. Sacramento, California. Phone: Oak 1561. Manufacturer’s Name: Ikeda (T.) (Later renamed Ikeda Shoyu Brewery). 64. Nichibei Shinbun-sha (Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha). 1909- Manufacturer’s Address: Front St., near King, Hilo, Island of 1916. Nichi-Bei nenkan [Japanese-American yearbook. 8 Hawaii. vols.]. 650 Ellis St., San Francisco, California. Reprinted in Date of Introduction: 1909. 2001-02 in Tokyo by Nihon Tosho Senta. Series: Nikkei Imin Ingredients: Best shoyu: Soya beans, salt, wheat, caramel Shiryôshû. Dai 5-kai [Collected Documents on Japanese color, water, and 1/10 of 1% of sodium benzoate. Emigration. No. 5]. [Jap; eng] Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Best shoyu is in 1 gallon bottle. • Summary: In 1912 (No. 8) the English-language title page How Stored: Shelf stable. reads: Th e Japanese American Year Book. Th e book is mostly New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of (99%) in Japanese; it is read and numbered from “back to Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1909. p. 660. T. Ikeda, front” compared with typical English books. It is divided into soy mnfr [manufacturer], Front near King. Residence, same. several sections, each numbered separately. Contents: Index 1910 Directory. p. 690, same. 1911 Directory. p. 787, same. A (4 p.). Map of the United States. Map of California. photo shows an early square Label (pre. 1950). “Best Shoyu.” Note: Th is Yearbook was not published in 1916 (or 1917). Logo is Maru-Ichi. “Genuine Brewed Shoyu.” Manufactured

Manufacturer’s Address: 79 Jap Alley, Sacramento, California. Date of Introduction: 1909. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 39.

71. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Konishi Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 66, Armona, California. Date of Introduction: 1909. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 48. Note: Armona is in California’s Central Valley, south of Fresno, just west of Hanford and further west of Visalia. Also in 1911. Directory entry p. 73.

72. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Ogata Tofu-ya. and Bottled by Ikeda Shoyu Brewery. Hilo, Hawaii. An Manufacturer’s Address: 1625 Post St., San Francisco, illustration shows wheat stalks and soybean plants. California. Date of Introduction: 1909. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 14.

73. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Ogawa Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 35, Dinuba, California. Date of Introduction: 1909. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 72. Also in 1910. Census entry p. 180. Th e place name in Japanese is written Dainyuubaa. Male owner and no employees. Note: Dinuba is in California’s Central Valley, in Tulare County, about 25 miles southeast of the city of Fresno, and a few miles south of Reedley.

74. Product Name: Shoyu (Soy Sauce). Manufacturer’s Name: Sanyo Shoyu Jozo Gaisha. Renamed A photo shows an oval Label (Used shortly before they Sanyo Shoyu Jozo-sho by 1913. closed). Ikeda Shoyu. Maru-Ichi. Hilo, Hawaii. ½ gallon. Manufacturer’s Address: 69 N. 5th St., Portland, Oregon. Same ingredients as before. T.H. Nihei. Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Date of Introduction: 1909. Directory. 1954. p. 78. Shiro Ikeda Shoyu (Shiro Ikeda, New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. proprietor). 195 Liholiho h958, Kaumana Drive, Hilo, Island Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory of Hawaii. 1957 Directory. Becomes the Ikeda S. Shoyu entry p. 137. Also in the 1913 Yearbook, however the Factory. Address same. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. company name is now Sanyo Shoyu Jozo-sho, the address is 73(7):542-49. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu 537 Goldsmith, and the phone is C 1397. Also in 1914, p. 215. no rekishi.” Shows two labels. Ikeda Shoyu Brewery, Hilo, But the address is 539 Delay St. Hawaii. Th ey make amino acid soy sauce. Th e company 1/8 page ad in Th e Japanese American Directory. 1919. p. recently closed. 230. Sanyo Shokai, 539 Delay St., Portland, Oregon. Phone: 1397 (written in Japanese characters). Th ey make and sell 70. Product Name: Tofu. shoyu, miso, and koji (issai seizô hanbai) plus various other Manufacturer’s Name: Kaimei Tofu-ya. non-soyfoods.

Note: Th is is the earliest document seen (Nov. 2005) its two logos, each including the character dai / tai, which concerning soybeans in Oregon. Th is document contains the means “big.” Th e president (shachô) is Hamada Tsunegoro. earliest date seen for soybeans in Oregon (1909). Th e source Vice president (fuku shachô) is Isaki Yonetaro. Th e names of these soybeans is unknown. A shoyu manufacturer must and titles of 11 other company offi cers are listed across the have soybeans in order to make shoyu. bottom of the ad. Note: Hokubei Shoyu Jozo K.K. Jozo-sho was at this 75. Product Name: Tofu. address in 1908. Manufacturer’s Name: Saza Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 1415 Laguna St., San Francisco, 78. Product Name: Shoyu. California. Manufacturer’s Name: Tanaka. Date of Introduction: 1909. Manufacturer’s Address: Waipahu, Oahu, Hawaii. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Date of Introduction: 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of entry p. 14. Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1909. p. 554. Tanaka, soy, Waipahu. Not listed in 1907. 76. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Shigematsu Tofu-ya. 79. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 2119 Berkeley Way, Berkeley, Manufacturer’s Name: Tofu-ya Shimada (Shimada Tofu-ya). California. Phone: Berkeley 4595. Manufacturer’s Address: 1441 Kern St., Fresno, California. Date of Introduction: 1909. Date of Introduction: 1909. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 27. entry p. 69. Census entry p. 153. Two un-named Japanese tofu makers. Two male owners and one female employee. 77. Product Name: Shoyu (Soy Sauce). Also in 1910. Census entry p. 179. Male owner and no Manufacturer’s Name: Tairiku Shoyu Jozo Gaisha. Th e employees. Also in 1911, p. 158. Continental Soy Brewing Co. Manufacturer’s Address: 1217 Temple Ave., Fruitvale, 80. Product Name: Tofu. California. Manufacturer’s Name: Tofu-ya Tanabe (Tanabe Tofu-ya). Date of Introduction: 1909. Manufacturer’s Address: 830 F St., Fresno, California. Date of Introduction: 1909. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 69. Also in 1911. Directory entry p. 72. Th e address is now Japanese Alley and the company name is now Tanabe Tofu-ya. Also in 1912. Directory entry p. 90. Th e address is now 847 China Alley. Also in 1913, p. 102. Also in 1914, p. 104. Th e address is now 847 Japanese Alley. Note: Th is is the earliest known tofu shop in Fresno, California.

81. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Tsuruya Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 390 L. St., Sacramento, California. Date of Introduction: 1909. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 39. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory 82. Product Name: Shoyu (Soy Sauce). entry p. 30. Ad (½ page), p. B-34. Th e top ¼ of this ad is Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese shoyu makers in English: Th e Continental Soy Brewing Co. 1217 Temple (two). Ave., Fruitvale, California. Tairiku Shoyu Jozo K.K. Th is is Manufacturer’s Address: Oakland, California. an early maker of soy sauce in the continental United States Date of Introduction: 1909. (not including Hawaii). Two illustrations show what look like New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909.

Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. entry p. 149. Two male owners and 4 male employees. Also in Census entry p. 165. One male owner and no employees. 1910, p. 172, 174. Male owner and two male employees. Also in 1910. Census entry p. 248. One male owner and no employees. 83. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. 88. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Selma, California. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. Date of Introduction: 1909. Manufacturer’s Address: Isleton, California. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Date of Introduction: 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. entry p. 153. Male owner, one male and one female employee. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census Also appeared 1910. Census entry p. 179. Male owner and no entry p. 152. Male owner and no employees. Also in 1911. employees. Note: Selma, is in California’s Central Valley, in Census entry p. 156. Male owner and no employees. Note: Fresno County, about 15 miles southeast of the city of Fresno. Isleton is in northern California, near Rio Vista, northeast of Antioch. 84. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. 89. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Reedley, California. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. Date of Introduction: 1909. Manufacturer’s Address: San Bernardino, California. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Date of Introduction: 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. entry p. 153. Male owner and one male and one female Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census employee. Also in 1910. Census entry p. 180. Male owner entry p. 157. Male owner and no employees. Note: San and no employees. Th e place name in Japanese is written Bernardino is in southern California, just north of Riverside Reedoray. Note: Reedley is in California’s Central Valley, in and directly east of Los Angeles. Fresno County, about 20 miles east southeast of the city of Fresno, and a few miles north of Dinuba. 90. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. 85. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Sparks, Nevada. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. Date of Introduction: 1909. Manufacturer’s Address: Santa Barbara, California. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Date of Introduction: 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. entry p. 160. Male owner and one female employee. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census entry p. 158. One tofu shops in Santa Barbara. Male 91. Product Name: Tofu. owner and no employees. Also in 1910. Census entry p. 185. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. Two tofu shops in Santa Barbara. Two male owners and no Manufacturer’s Address: Boat / Port Burakure, Washington. employees. Date of Introduction: 1909. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. 86. Product Name: Tofu. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. entry p. 164. Th ree male owners and 1 female owner. Manufacturer’s Address: Ogden, Utah. Date of Introduction: 1909. 92. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census Manufacturer’s Address: Portland, Oregon. entry p. 161. One male owner and one female employee. Date of Introduction: 1909. Also in 1910. Census entry p. 235. One male owner and no New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. employees. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census entry p. 166. Male owner and one female employee. 87. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. 93. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: New York City, New York. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu makers Date of Introduction: 1909. (three). New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. Manufacturer’s Address: Seattle, Washington.

Date of Introduction: 1909. Manufacturer’s Address: Denver, Colorado. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. Date of Introduction: 1909. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Census entry p. 216. Th ere are three tofu shops in Seattle, Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census Washington. Four male owners, 3 male and one female entry p. 162. Two Japanese tofu shops. Two male owners employees. Also in 1910. Census entry p. 216. Th ere are three and no employees. Also in 1910. Census entry p. 245. One tofu shops in Seattle, Washington. Th ree male owners and 3 Japanese tofu shop. One male owner and no employees. male employees. Note: Kitayama Tofu-ten and Mano Tofu-ten both existed 98. Product Name: Tofu. in Seattle in 1906. Th ose are the only two whose names we Manufacturer’s Name: Ushijima Tofu-ya. know before this time. Manufacturer’s Address: 2336 Lincoln Ave., Alameda, California. Phone: Alameda 2263. 94. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1909. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu makers New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. (two). Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Manufacturer’s Address: Tulare, California. entry p. 29. Date of Introduction: 1909. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. 99. Hokubei Boeki K.K. 1909. North American Mercantile Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census Co. (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan entry p. 154. Male owner and no employees. Also in 1910. [Japanese-American Yearbook. No. 6]. p. A-1. [Jap] Census entry p. 181. Male owner and no employees. Th e • Summary: Ad (full page). Th is company imports place name in Japanese is written Tsurare. Note: Tulare is in various goods including white rice, sake, shoyu, and miso. California’s Central Valley, in Tulare County, about 42 miles Illustrations show: (1) Two sacks of “Japan Rice–100 pounds.” southeast of the city of Fresno. (2) Two kegs of sake tied with traditional rice-straw ropes. Address: 318-320 Front St., San Francisco, California. 95. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu makers 100. Ichida Risuke. 1909. R. Ichida (Ad). In: Nichibei (two). Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Manufacturer’s Address: Oxnard, California. Yearbook. No. 6]. p. A-15. [Jap] Date of Introduction: 1909. • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e top 1/5 of this ad is in New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. English. Th is company imports various goods including Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census Kikkoman shoyu, and shoyu made by other companies in entry p. 156. Two tofu shops in Oxnard. Two male owners Noda, Japan. Ichida is the overseas sales representative of and no employees. Also in 1910. Census entry p. 184. Two Tokyo Shoyu wholesalers and of Okada Shoten. Address: tofu shops in Oxnard. Two male owners and no employees. 1968 Bush St., San Francisco, California. Phone: WEST 1688. Note: Oxnard, in Ventura County, is just south of Ventura, near the coast of the Santa Barbara Channel, 30 miles west 101. Iwakami Gomei-gaisha Shiten. 1909. Iwakami & Co. northwest of Los Angeles. (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook. No. 6]. Unnumbered page. 96. Product Name: Tofu. [Jap] Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu makers • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e company name is written (two). across the top of this ad in English. Th is Japanese company Manufacturer’s Address: Riverside, California. has its main offi ce in Yokohama, Japan, with branch offi ces Date of Introduction: 1909. (shiten) in Osaka, Hawaii, and San Francisco, California. It New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. exports shoyu, miso, and other goods from Japan. Address: Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census Yokohama, Japan. entry p. 156. Male owner and no employees. Also in 1910. Census entry p. 184. Two tofu shops in Riverside. Two male 102. Mackenzie, J.D. comp. 1909. Labor laws of California: owners and no employees. Note: Riverside is south of Los First special report of the Bureau of Labor Statistics. Angeles and 10 miles south Southwest of San Bernardino. Sacramento, California: W.W. Shannon, Superintendent State Printing. 76 p. Index. 17 cm. [2 ref] 97. Product Name: Tofu. • Summary: Th e Introduction states (p. [3]): Th e Twenty- Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu makers second Annual Report of the United States Commissioner (two). of Labor, 1907, Department of Commerce and Labor, Labor

Laws of the United States, has been used as the basis in the Talk with David, Librarian at Government Documents preparation of this report.” It includes all labor laws in force Dep., California State Library, Sacramento. 2007. June 18. at the close of 1907. What ever happened to the 1910 report on Japanese in Th e fi rst section under “Constitution” states (p. 5): Article California? In May 1910 it was evidently delivered to the 19. Employment of Chinese–Coolie labor. Section 3. No governor of California, James Gillett (governor from Jan. Chinese shall be employed on any state, county, municipal, or 1907 to Jan. 1911). A card in David’s library mentions “the other public work, except in punishment for a crime. report was commissioned pursuant to provisions of Chapter Sec. 4. Th e presence of foreigners ineligible to become 134, Statutes of 1909.” Unfortunately this government citizens of the United States is declared to be dangerous to the documents library does not have the report. It has been well-being of the state, and the legislature shall discourage requested before. Th ere is an old information fi le that the their immigration by all the means within its power. library keeps in card catalog form. David found a card in Asiatic coolieism is a form of human slavery, and is forever there about this report. It describes the report as being prohibited in this state.” mentioned in the Biennial Report cited above–but does not Th e chapter titled “Sims’ Deering’s Code–1906,” under give the number of pages. Th e rest of the card reads: “Neither “Political code” states (p. 10): “Products of Chinese labor not the State Library nor State Archives has a copy of the report. to be bought by state offi cials. Sec. 3235.” (equates “Chinese Th e Library of the California Division of Labor Statistics and labor” with “Mongolian labor”). Research in San Francisco (phone as of June 2007: 415-703- Th e chapter titled “Statutes of 1909,” states (p. 64-65): 4780) has papers related to the report but not the report “Chapter 134. Japanese–Statistics concerning. Sec. 1... itself.” Th at is where the card ends. David does not know the governor shall direct the state labor commissioner to when this card was typed up, because unfortunately the above immediately undertake and complete as soon as possible entry is not dated. the gathering and compiling of statistics and such other David will contact a person who is in charge of Special information regarding the Japanese in this state as may Collections of the California State Library. be useful to the governor in making a proper report to Talk with Tim Stahlheber at the California Division the president of the United States and to congress, and of Labor Statistics and Research in San Francisco (State in furnishing to the people of this state and elsewhere a Building, 455 Golden Gate Ave., 9th Floor). 2007. June 19. comprehensive statement of such conditions as actually Th e library of several thousand documents is still on the exist. Upon the order of the governor such statistics and shelves of one room, but it is unorganized. Th e librarian was information shall be printed and distributed. Sec. 2. Th e sum let go about 15 years ago due to budget cuts. Tim has worked of ten thousand dollars,... is hereby appropriated” from the with this division for decades. Address: Commissioner, California state treasury “to carry out the provisions of this California Bureau of Labor Statistics. act.” “Chapter 410. Japanese–Records to be kept. Sec. 1. It 103. Murai Nishikawa Shokai. 1909. Murai & Nishikawa: is hereby declared to be the duty of all offi cers of this state Importers & com. merchts. [commercial merchants] (Ad). In: and all offi cers of each respective county, city, or city and Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- county, in addition to their other duties, to keep such records American Yearbook. No. 6]. Unnumbered page near center of as shall be required under the provisions of an act entitled, book. [Jap] ‘An act to provide for the gathering, compiling, printing • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e top ¼ of this ad is in English. and distribution of statistics and information regarding Th is company imports various goods including white rice, the Japanese of the state, and making an appropriation sake, shoyu, and miso. Cable address: “Muranisu” San therefor’ and to furnish to the commissioner of the bureau Francisco. Code used: A. B. C. 5th Ed. Western Union. of labor statistics, upon request, whatever data it may be Address: 2001 Pine St., San Francisco, California. Phone: necessary for the commissioner to acquire in complying with West 5407. the provisions of said act. Sec. 2. Th is act shall take eff ect immediately.” 104. Nichibei Shinbun-sha (Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha). 1909. Even though soy is not mentioned in this report, we Nichi-Bei nenkan [Japanese-American yearbook. No. 5]. include it here because it was so important in the creation of 650 Ellis St., San Francisco, California. 605 p. Reprinted in the Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook] (1905- 2001-02 in Tokyo by Nihon Tosho Senta. Series: Nikkei Imin 1912), which is the single best source of early information Shiryôshû. Dai 5-kai [Collected Documents on Japanese about Japanese manufacturers of soyfoods in the United Emigration. No. 5]. [Jap; eng] States. For a fairly good summary of this lost 1910 report • Summary: Th is book is read and numbered from “back see the Fourteenth Biennial Report of the Bureau of Labor to front” compared with typical English books; it is mostly Statistics of California, 1909-1910. Published in 1910. Th e (99%) in Japanese. Th e English-language title page reads: Th e Commissioner was J.D. Mackenzie. Japanese American Year Book.

Th e book is divided into 17 parts, each numbered totaled 103,630, including 93,149 men (89.9%), 6,379 women, separately. Contents: (1) Front matter (5 p.) (2) Table of and 2,100 male children, and 2,010 female children. Six pages contents (3 p.). (3) Maps (2 p.): Map of the United States. of tables give the Japanese populations of diff erent U.S. states Map of California (1 p. each, in Japanese). (4) Black and and cities. white photos on 6 unnumbered pages (single sided). (5) Th e directory (p. 5) gives a listing of sake and shoyu Advertisements (A-1 to A-32). (6) Front part (p. 1-168), sellers in San Francisco: Hokubei Boeki Kaisha, 318 Front St. including general information about America, Japanese in Tel. [Phone] Kearny 451. McKendry Shosha, 149 California America, U.S. and agricultural census data, etc. (7) Ads from St. Tel. Kearny 2970. Iwagami Shokai, 441 Commercial St. San Francisco printers (2 p.). Appendixes: (8) Appendix 1: Tel. 2447. Kagawa Soko Shiten, 41 Commercial St. Tel. 1263. Table of contents (2 p.) (9) Appendix 1. Japanese agricultural Ichida Shoten, 1968 Bush St. Tel. West 1688. Murai Ishikawa workers in the various states (p. 1-60). (10) Ads (p. B-1 Shokai, 2001 Pine St. Tel. West 5407. Tanaka Kyodai Shokai, to B-96). (11) Appendix 2 table of contents (2 p.). (12) 1609 Gough St. Tel. West 6615. Ads (3 p.). (13) Appendix 2. Japanese living in America, Th e Directory shows Japanese companies making alphabetically by state, and within each state by city (p. soyfoods in California, Colorado, Nevada, New York, 1-148). (14) Ads (2 p.). (15) Ads on numbered pages (C-1 to Oregon, Utah, and Washington. Address: San Francisco, C-66). (16) California ads (p. C-1 to C-42). (17) Publication California. data / Copyright page (1 p.). Basic information about how this book was compiled 105. Tanaka Kyodai Shokai (Tanaa Bros.). 1909. Direct and the survey conducted is given on pages 60-66, 140-41, importers & general mdse. [merchandise] (Ad). In: Nichibei and on the title page of Appendix 1 of this year book. Pages Shinbun-sha. 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American 60-66 show various existing government registration forms Yearbook. No. 6]. p. A-8. [Jap] that Japanese are required to fi ll out, such as birth, marriage, • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e top 1/20 of this ad is in death, and divorce certifi cates, employment / occupation, English. Th is company imports various goods including sake agricultural details (employer, land use, nature of relationship and Sakae-jirushi shoyu, which is made in Noda, Chiba-ken with employer, etc.), and visa. by Mogi Shichiro Uemon. Tanaka is the exclusive seller of Th e tariff (import duty) on shoyu and miso from Japan is this product. Each year 115,000 koku (1 koku = 180 liters; so 40% for each (p. 32). 20,700,000 liters). An illustration shows a Japanese woman Th e value of the 1900 soybean crop in the United States is dressed in a kimono holding a keg of sake bound with rice- $7,634,262 and the value in California is $1,022,586 (p. 69). straw ropes. Th e word “shoyu” in written in fl owing script Note: Th is is the earliest document seen (March 2009) that in the upper right corner of the illustration. Address: 1609 gives soybean production or area statistics for either the USA Gough St., San Francisco, California. or California–much earlier than any U.S. Dept. of Agriculture statistics. Unfortunately, the source of these statistics is not 106. Kikkoman Shoyu Jozosho (Th e “Kikkoman” brand soy given. During the period 1900 and 1909 many Japanese brewery.) Main offi ce: Noda, Chiba Prefecture (Document were farming land in California, and there was a signifi cant part). 1910. In: Japan’s Industries: And Who’s Who in Japan. number of soyfoods manufacturers in California and, more 1910. Osaka, Japan: Industrial Japan. vi, iii, 687 p., iv p. See broadly, west of the Rocky Mountains. Th erefore we should p. 163-65. Undated. Translated from unpublished Japanese not be surprised to learn that these farmers were growing manuscripts. 29 cm. [Eng] soybeans in California, either for use as edamamé (green • Summary: “History: Th e origin of the brewing of the vegetable soybeans in the pods) or for sale as whole dry ‘Kikkôman’ brand of soy, reputed to be the leader among the soybeans to soyfoods makers. best varieties, dates back about 120 years [i.e. to about 1790]. Value of selected imports from Japan to the USA in 1906: Ever since the honoured founder of the fi rm inaugurated the Miso–Imported to the mainland $55,648. To Hawaii $43,108. brewing of soy, the succeeding proprietors have all been men Total $98,756. Shoyu [soy sauce]–Imported to the mainland of great ability, who have succeeded in extending the business $241,345. To Hawaii $211,265. Total $452,610 (p. 119). generation by generation, as well as improving the quality of Retail prices of Japanese foods in San Francisco (on 1 the product. In the year 1838, when Mr. Saheiji Mogi, fi ft h Nov. 1908): Amazake [cup] for 15 cents (100 cents apparently of the line, was the head of the fi rm, it was appointed by = $1.00). Kikkoman shoyu: 1 cho for 300 cents. Yamasa special warrant purveyor to the Household of the Tokugawa shoyu: 1 cho for 280 cents. Miso: 1 cho for 180 cents. Tai Shoguns, having been ordered to supply the Household [sea bream] miso: 1 piece (ko) for 10 cents. Note: A cho is and the Heir-Apparent every year with a large quantity of an undefi ned, vague unit of Japanese measurement. A photo soy, a custom which was continued until the overthrow of shows the inside of a Japanese retail store (p. 120). Note: Th e the Shogunate in 1868. Very few fi rms or individuals were meaning of “1 cho” is unclear. honoured by being appointed special contractors to the In 1908 the Japanese population in the United States Court of the Shogun, and this fact must be considered as a

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 40 very high tribute to the excellence of the fi rm’s products, the Chicago [Illinois], London [England], Paris [France], Berlin quantity to be supplied being subsequently doubled. [Germany], Vienna [Austria-Hungary], and China ports. “Th e chief point worthy of special mention in regard “Honours awarded: Th e ‘Kikkoman’ fi rm has had to the ‘Kikkoman’ fi rm is the fact of its having been chiefl y conferred upon it the honour of being special contractors instrumental in making Japanese soy known and appreciated to the Imperial Household Department, a special brewery in foreign countries, more than half the total amount of being devoted exclusively for the brewing of soy supplied to soy exported to foreign countries at present being the the Imperial table. An entirely new plant, with the capacity ‘Kikkoman’ brand. Mr. Saheiji Mogi, the grandfather of the of turning out 20,000 gallons per annum has been newly present proprietor, was a remarkable able business-man. He installed, which is under the strict surveillance of experts was most assiduous and energetic in endeavouring to eff ect specially appointed for the purpose. Th e utmost cleanliness is improvements in the process of brewing as well the extension carefully observed and the brewing is carried out on up-to- of the business. On the occasion of the International date and hygienic principles. Exhibition held in Vienna, Austria, in 1873, when the “Th e most principal medals and prizes awarded to the Japanese Government participated for the fi rst time in such fi rm at the various exhibitions are as follows: International an undertakings, the ‘Kikkoman’ soy was among the exhibits. Exhibition at Vienna, 1873. Gold Medal. National Industrial Being deemed by the judges far superior both in regard to Exhibitions (First to the Fift h inclusive). First Prize. taste and colour to the sauce usually used as a condiment, the International Exhibition at Amsterdam (Netherlands), 1883. ‘Kikkoman’ soy was awarded the gold of honour. Gold Medal. St. Louis [Missouri] International Exposition, “A ft erwards, when the name of ‘Kikkoman’ soy gradually 1904. Grand Prix of Highest Honour. Seattle International came to be known in Europe and its exportation increased, Exposition, 1909. Grand Prix of Honour. many spurious articles appeared on the market, bearing the “Proprietor: Mr. Saheiji Mogi, the father of the present same brand, Th is proved very detrimental to the reputation proprietor and eighth of the line, was a man of very of the genuine ‘Kikkoman’ soy, so that, the fi rm, in order progressive ideas. He studied at Cambridge University, and to protect itself against fraudulent imitations, ordered a aft er a stay in England extending for several years, returned very elaborate design for a trade-mark to be made for them to Japan and devoted himself to the extension of the business in Paris, which they had registered, this being, in fact, the of the fi rm, when he was unfortunately attacked by a sudden very fi rst instance of a trade-mark being registered for soy illness to which he succumbed. His son succeeded to the and most probably in advance of any other commodity. In head of the business and being ably and faithfully is assisted January, 1905, the above trade-mark was registered at the by the guardian, Mr. Keizaburo Mogi, and the Manager, Mr. United States Patent Offi ce. In June 1909 the United States Kyujiro Uchida, the business has progressed and is at present Government issued a certifi cate regarding ‘Kikkoman’ soy, in a very prosperous condition. to the eff ect that it is of very superior quality, containing no A photo (p. 164) shows the Kikkoman brand soy brewery admixture of saccharine or any other chemicals and being next to a river. Smoke is rising from a tall smokestack and very suitable as a condiment. boats are docked along the river. “Th e services which this fi rm have rendered in the Note: Th is is the earliest document seen (April 2001) cause of the soy industry, principally for its exportation to that contains industry or market statistics for soy sauce foreign countries, are very remarkable. Whenever there was production by a particular manufacturer. Address: Japan. an exhibition abroad, tiny sample bottles of the soy were distributed, and no opportunity was lost and no diffi culty 107. Kushigata Shoyu Jozosho (Th e “Kushigata” brand soy seemed too great to be overcome by the fi rm in order to brewery.) Main offi ce: Noda, Chiba Prefecture (Document popularise Japanese soy in foreign countries. part). 1910. In: Japan’s Industries: And Who’s Who in Japan. “On the occasion of the Japan-British Exhibition held 1910. Osaka, Japan: Industrial Japan. vi, iii, 687 p., iv p. See in London in 1910, ‘Kikkoman’ soy as well as the other best p. 165-67. Undated. Translated from unpublished Japanese varieties of Japanese soy, is being exhibited. Th us, the English manuscripts. 29 cm. [Eng] public will be given full opportunity to test this best quality of • Summary: “History: As will be seen by the accompanying Japanese food condiment. articles, most of the soy brewers of Noda are distinguished by “Present conditions: Th e ‘Kikkoman’ fi rm owns at the surname of Mogi, and the family of Mr. Hichizayemon present six soy breweries, with the total number of 4,200 [Shichizaemon, Hichizaemon] Mogi, proprietor of the fi rm hands and eight sets of boilers and steam engines. Th e yearly of ‘Kushigata’ brand soy is, in fact, the head and originator of output is about 11,800,000 gallons, of which 2,880,000 all these distinguished so brewing fi rms of the same name. gallons are exported to foreign countries, the principal One of the ancestors of the Mogi family was a distinguished destinations being Honolulu [Hawaii], Portland [Oregon], Samurai in the service of the celebrated warrior and San Francisco [California], Seattle [Washington], Los Angeles statesman–Toyotomi Hideyoshi–and his daring and deeds [California], Tacoma [Washington], Denver [Colorado], of valour are matters of history. With the overthrow of the

Toyotomi family he laid aside his sword and entered the Hawaii, Australia, China, Korea, Canada, British Columbia, fi eld of business. It was 290 years ago that the founder of the United States, the Philippine Islands, and the Straits the fi rm, the ancestor of Mr. Hichizayemon Mogi settled Settlements [today’s Singapore]. Th e export trade shows a in Noda as a soy brewer. His distinguished personality and tendency to increase year by year. lineage gained for him the deep respect of the inhabitants “Honours Awarded: Th e following are some of the and he was appointed the headman of the place, thus being principal prizes and medals awarded to the ‘Kushigata’ brand called upon to engage in public business as well as his own. soy at the various exhibitions where the fi rm’s products have At this period, soy was brought over from Osaka to Tokyo, been shown:–Th e National Industrial Exhibition from the the capital of the Tokugawa Shoguns. Th e quality of this First to the Fift h. First Prize on each occasion. International sauce, however, was very inferior and in view of this Mr. [Columbian] Exposition held in Chicago [Illinois], 1893. Mogi instructed a member of this branch of the family–Mr. Gold Medal. International Exhibition held in Paris, 1899. Saheiji Mogi–to brew the ‘Kikkôman’ soy as an experiment. Gold Medal. St. Louis International Exposition [Missouri], Th e results having proved very satisfactory, that brand 1904. Grand Prix. Alaska-Yukon International Exposition at was brewed on a large scale, and Mr. Mogi subsequently Seattle, 1908. Grand Prix. inaugurated the brewing of the ‘Kihaku’ brand, the two fi rms “Proprietor: Th e present proprietor of the famous fi rm being allowed to engage in the brewing of so-called Noda of the ‘Kushigata’ brand is Mr. Hichizayemon Mogi, who Soy on an extensive scale. Th ese two brands of soy having is the eleventh of the line. Although he is yet young, he proved very well suited to the tastes of the citizens of Yedo, places business before pleasure, strictly adhering to the the demand increased to such an extent that the output was precepts of his ancestors and is devoting his entire energy hardly suffi cient to meet the demand. Such being the case, to the development of his business and the improvement Mr. Hichizayemon Mogi himself engaged in the brewing of the particular brand for which the fi rm is responsible. of soy also. Th e ripe experience gained by supervising the Having selected a most favourable locality he is, at present, work of the branch fi rms in brewing superior varieties of soy constructing a new factory with the producing capacity proved very valuable to him, and his business also proved of 2,000,000 gallons per year, which promises to be the a very great success, the name of the new brand of soy best equipped factory of its kind in Japan. Th e machinery ‘Ichiyama’ becoming quite celebrated within a comparatively employed is to be of the latest pattern, and it is intended that short period of time. However, another new branch of the electricity be used as the motive power.” Mogi family’s fi rm being inaugurated under the proprietor- A photo (p. 166) shows “Th e pumping machinery of soy.” ship of Mr. Yuyemon Mogi, the brand ‘Ichiyama’ was Around the pump are many brick walls. Address: Japan. transferred to the new fi rm so as to ensure its prosperity and the brand ‘Kushigata,’ at present in use, was then adopted. 108. Yamasa Shoyu Jozosho (Th e “Yamasa” brand soy Such proceeding may appear somewhat strange, but it was in brewery.) Main offi ce: Choshi, Chiba Prefecture (Document compliance with the legacy left by the ancestors of the Mogi part). 1910. In: Japan’s Industries: And Who’s Who in Japan. family that the various branches should unite for the general 1910. Osaka, Japan: Industrial Japan. vi, iii, 687 p., iv p. See sharing of profi ts in their business undertakings. At the time p. 156-58. Undated. Translated from unpublished Japanese when the fame of the ‘Kushigata’ brand was at its height, manuscripts. 29 cm. [Eng] in 1871, the whole premises of fi rm were unfortunately • Summary: “History: Th e Hamaguchi Soy Company, destroyed by fi re. Th is proved a great blow to the fortunes of which was formed in 1906, with a capital of ¥500,000, is the fi rm but the present proprietor, by dint of sheer energy the continuation of a very old fi rm founded 265 years ago and perseverance, succeeded in retrieving the lost fortunes of [i.e., in about 1641] by the brothers Kichiyemon and Gihei the fi rm, the yearly output at present far exceeding the former Hamaguchi, ancestors of the present Mr. Kichiyemon production. Although the yearly output of the main house of Hamaguchi, the proprietor of the fi rm. Th ese two brothers, Mogi (‘Kushigata’ brand soy) is below that of the branches, natives of what is now Wakayama Prefecture, settled down namely the ‘Kihaku’ and other brands, it has been entirely in Chôshi, and opened a soy brewery, which has gone on owing to the good will of the former that the latter fi rms have progressing from that day to this. In 1825, the Yamasa brand been enabled to attain their present prosperous state, the was one of those accorded the privilege of being called “Th e outcome of the traditional legacy of the Mogi family having Best Soy” by the Tokugawa Shogunate. been carried out by the head of the house Note: Th is is the earliest document seen (July 2011) which “Present conditions: Th e fi rm has at present two factories, states that a brand of soy sauce named Yamasa existed as early the number of hands employed being 600. Th e factories as 1825. Th e name of the company that makes this brand is are provided with two sets of boilers and steam engines not clear. for motive power. Th e fi rm produced about 5,270,000 Mr. Goryo Hamaguchi, the father of the present gallons of soy per year, of which about 336,000 gallons are proprietor, aft er a visit to Europe and America, in 1833, exported to foreign countries, the places of destination being introduced some radical changes in the brewing of soy in his

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 42 brewery, by an application of the most scientifi c principles. Houses of the Legislature. Mr. Hamaguchi has been ably Mr. Kichiyemon Hamaguchi, the present head of the fi rm, assisted in his work by Mr. Kichibei Hamaguchi, a director, continued the same enterprising policy of his father, and and Mr. Tetsujiro Midzushima, the superintendent of the the business began to extend very much in consequence. In works, as well as by an industrious and effi cient staff .” 1894 the fi rm was appointed supplier of soy to the Imperial Photos show: Yamasa soy in casks and bottles. Yamasa Household by special warrant. On being transformed into brand soy brewery from an angled aerial view; smoke rises a partnership concern, the business of the fi rm increased from two tall smokestacks. Address: Japan. considerably, while experts were engaged to conduct scientifi c investigations. Dr. Kendo Saito, the well-known 109. California Bureau of Labor Statistics. comp. 1910. scientist, was entrusted with the study of soy fermentation. Biennial report of the Bureau of Labor Statistics of California, “At present the fi rm owns two breweries, installed with 1909-1910. Vol. 14. Sacramento, California: W.W. Shannon, steam plants, and employing over 600 hands. Th e annual Superintendent State Printing. 439 p. Index of tables and output is approximately 8,000,000 gallons. Tokyo, Yokohama, charts. [1 ref] and other large business centres, consume great quantities • Summary: Th is is the Fourteenth Biennial Report of the of the ‘Yamasa’ brand, and much of it is exported to Great Bureau of Labor Statistics of California, 1909-1910. Th e Britain, the United States, Germany, Australia, China, Korea, Commissioner is J.D. Mackenzie. Th is report summarizes the Hawaii, and Vladiovstock. Th e soy which goes abroad is data on Japanese in California collected in 1910 by a special contained in bottles of artistic appearance, well packed in commission, which was established with a budget of $10,000, boxes. Th e Hamaguchi Company was the pioneer in the and which issued a special report in 1910. Unfortunately that export trade of soy, this being due to Mr. Goryo Hamaguchi’s report appears to have been lost. Th e present report is divided tour in 1883, when he made a special study of the foreign into two main parts: (1) Discursive, and (2) Statistical. It taste for the Japanese sauce. contains many photos, tables, and charts. “As above mentioned, ‘Yamasa’ brand soy is supplied to On page 2, “Personnel of the Bureau,” under “Special the Imperial Household by special warrant. A great honour Agents” are given the names of the 12 men and women who was done the fi rm when His Highness Prince Kan-in, the were “Employed in temporary capacity only in fi eld work President of the Fift h National Industrial Exhibition, paid and during compilation and tabulation of this Fourteenth a visit of inspection to the brewery. In 1907 their Imperial Biennial Report.” Highnesses, Princes Kitashirakawa and Higashikuni went In the “Financial statement” (p. 10) we read: “Special over the brewery, and made some observations highly Appropriation for Investigation of the Japanese. (See complimentary to the proprietor. In the same year a further Stats [Statutes] of California, 1909, Chap. 134). Amount honour was done the proprietor, when he was appointed appropriated: $10,000.00. Disbursements for salaries, supplier of ‘Yamasa’ soy to His Imperial Highness the Crown traveling, and contingent expense: $9,794.75. Printing Prince of Korea. schedules, etc. $205.25. Total disbursements: $10,000.00.” “Space does not permit of a full list of the prizes won Th e “Report of the Commissioner” (Summary) (p. 12) by the company at various exhibitions. ‘Yamasa’ brand soy states: “Th e establishment of a branch offi ce at Los Angeles was awarded a fi rst prize at every one of the fi ve National has enabled the Assistant Deputy to more thoroughly Exhibitions which have been held in Japan. Abroad, either carry on the work... Th is arrangement was particularly a gold medal or the Grand Prix was awarded at each of advantageous in prosecuting the Japanese investigation, the following Exhibitions: Chicago [Illinois / Columbian] which began in that territory in May, 1909. During a period International Exposition, 1893; Paris International of about fi ft een months, the special agents occupied the Exhibition, 1899; Th e Asia Exhibition (Hanoi, French Indo- Los Angeles branch headquarters, both in the Japanese China), 1903; St. Louis [Missouri] International Exposition, investigation and in the gathering of data for the present 1904; Milan Exhibition [Italy], 1905; and Seattle Exhibition, biennial report.” Th e special report covering the Japanese 1909. investigation, which was required of the Commissioner by act “Mr. Kichiyemon Hamaguchi, the President of the of the Legislature of 1909, and submitted to the Governor in company, was born in Wakayama Prefecture in 1862, and May. 1910” (p. 13). was educated at Keio University. In 1900 he made a tour Th e section titled “Farm labor” (p. 47) begins: “Th e round the world, and since his return has done much to situation and condition of farm labor in California are very assist in extending the nation’s commerce and industry. In fully set forth in the special Japanese report, completed order to enlarge his business he converted it into a company, in May, 1910. While this investigation was directed to the and owing in great part to his energy and enterprising spirit, gathering of statistics and general information regarding the the company has proved a conspicuous success. Indeed, the employment of and operations by Japanese in the agricultural whole soy industry has profi ted by his labours. A gentleman sections, it necessarily involved the employment of the white of excellent character and reputation, he has sat in both and other races. Th e investigation covered more than 4,100

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 43 farms, and in the statistical reports indicated the number of to male help was $1.38 per day with board, and $1.90 per white men employed, as well as the number of Japanese and day without board. Th e average wage paid by white farmers, other oriental and other races. To make an extended report employing white and Japanese labor, to white male help was of the farm labor situation would be merely to review the $1.30 per day with board, and $1.82 per day without board; Japanese report. Every economic relation existing between to Japanese labor $1.49 per day with board, and $1.54 per the oriental and the white farm laborer was investigated by day without board. Th e wages paid to Japanese, however, can the special agents of the Bureau during that investigation, and not be taken as their average earnings, as 49.2 per cent of the the precise conditions have been in the special report very entire number employed were working by contract, or piece fully set forth.” work, under which conditions the earnings of the Japanese Th e section titled “Oriental Section” (p. 48) states: “In were much larger than those of the whites. Th e average the present report only the Chinese are considered in the wage paid by Japanese farmers to Japanese labor was $1.57 tabulated matter respecting oriental labor, for the reason per day with board, and $1.65 per day without board. It is that all phases of life, labor, and activities of the Japanese worth noting that the Japanese were better paid by their own population in the State were thoroughly covered in the countrymen than by the white farmers; this for two reasons– special report of the Commissioner fi led with the Governor fi rst, that he was in greater demand by his own countrymen; in May, 1910. Th is report was the result of an investigation and, second, that only 12.5 per cent of the total number undertaken by direction of the Governor and pursuant employed by Japanese farmers were working under contract, to the provisions of chapter 134, statutes of 1909. So the or piece work.” Japanese situation is not included in the present biennial Chart I (p. 270 b.) shows the main crops grown by report, except as to the presentation of tabulated data in the Japanese and other races, and what percent of the market chapter on Farm Labor, which shows the Japanese ownership each race controlled. Th e Japanese grew about 88% of the and tenancy.” “At the close of the biennial season ending berries in California, 66% of the sugar beets, 57% of the October, 1910, there were approximately 40,996 Japanese in nursery products, 52% of the grapes, 45% of the vegetables, the State compared with 45,000 in October, 1908. In respect 38% of the citrus fruit, 36% of the deciduous fruit, 8% of the to the Chinese, the number is approximately the same in the hops, 7% of the hay and grain, and 9% of other miscellaneous present period and the period two years prior, being 31,100 crops. Note that the Japanese preferred to grow high-value in October, 1910, and 30,000 in October, 1908.” crops. Note: In 1910, there are about 32% more Japanese in Chart II (p. 270d) shows the occupations of Japanese California than there are Chinese. In 1904, the Chinese in California agriculture: Japanese comprised 95% of the population of California was about 40,000, so it has decreased berry pickers, 95% of the vegetable pickers, 94% of the celery in recent years. handworkers, 88% of the beet toppers and loaders, 85% of In the section titled “Agriculture” (p. 128) the description the beet hoers and thinners, 73% of the grape pickers, 72% of of Table I states: In the investigation there were visited by the the pruners [highly skilled work], 67% of the fruit packers, agents of the Bureau 2,369 farms operated by white farmers. 25% of the fruit packers, 10% of the hop pickers, 8% of the Of these 2,369 farms, 1,135 employed white labor only, teamsters, and 4% of the fruit cutters. 1,105 employed white and Japanese labor, and 129 employed Chart III (p. 272b) shows the seasonal employment of various other races. It will thus be seen that the visits to white and Japanese farm labor. For both races, the month of farms operated by white persons were about equally divided greatest employment was Sept. (when 22% of Japanese and between those employing white labor exclusively, and those 28% of white farm laborers were employed). For Japanese employing white and Japanese labor. Th ere were also visited that was followed by Oct., Aug., July, June, and May. Th e 1,733 farms operated by Japanese. 132 of these farms were month of least employment was December, followed by operated by Japanese owners, 1,170 by Japanese cash lessees, January, February, and March. and 431 by Japanese share lessees.” Th e section in Part II of the report titled “Oriental” (p. Th e description of Table III states (p. 128): “Of the farms 339+) contains many interesting tables, but most relate only operated by Japanese cash lessees, 79.8 per cent contained to Chinese. Japanese are included only in Tables I. less than 50 acres, while only 51.4 per cent of those operated by Japanese share lessees were in this group. Th e reason for 110. Product Name: Shoyu. the farms operated under share lease being the larger may be Manufacturer’s Name: Ekeda. found in the fact that under this form of leasing the Japanese Manufacturer’s Address: Waiakea, Hilo, Island of Hawaii. lessee has little at stake outside of his labor. However, in both Date of Introduction: 1910. the cash and share lease farms the majority were under fi ft y New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of acres.” Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1910. p. 669. “Ekeda, Th e description of Table VIII states: Th e average wage soy, Waiakea, Hilo. Not listed in 1909. paid by white farmers, employing white labor exclusively, 1911 Directory. p. 766, same.

111. Product Name: Soy sauce. 117. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Tsuji. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. Manufacturer’s Address: Hanapepe, Kauai, Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: Tacoma, Washington. Date of Introduction: 1910. Date of Introduction: 1910. New Product–Documentation: Polk-Husted’s Directory of New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1910. Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1910. p. 902. Tsuji. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census soyo mnfr, Hanapepe, Kauai, Hawaii. 1911 Directory. p. 1011, entry p. 216. One male owner and 1 male employee. Note: same. Tacoma is a seaport city, capital of Pierce County, at the southern tip of Puget Sound, 26 miles south of Seattle. 112. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. 118. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Oakland, California. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. Date of Introduction: 1910. Manufacturer’s Address: Bellingham, Washington. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1910. Date of Introduction: 1910. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1910. entry p. 174. Consists of the male owner and one female Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census employee. entry p. 217. One male owner and 1 male employee. Note: Bellingham is a commercial city, capital of Whatcom County, 113. Product Name: Tofu. on Bellingham Bay, about 18 miles south of the Canadian Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. border, between Vancouver, BC, and Seattle, Washington. Manufacturer’s Address: Stockton, California. Date of Introduction: 1910. 119. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1910. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu makers Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census (two). entry p. 178. Male owner and one male employee. Also in Manufacturer’s Address: Vancouver, BC, Canada. 1911, Census entry p. 157. Male owner and no employees. Date of Introduction: 1910. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1910. 114. Product Name: Tofu. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. entry p. 224. Two tofu shops in Vancouver, British Columbia, Manufacturer’s Address: Monterey, California. Canada. Two male owners and no employees. Date of Introduction: 1910. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1910. 120. Nichibei Shinbun-sha (Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha). 1910. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census Nichi-Bei nenkan [Japanese-American yearbook. No. 6]. entry p. 186. One male owner and no employees. 650 Ellis St., San Francisco, California. 278 p. Reprinted in 2001-02 in Tokyo by Nihon Tosho Senta. Series: Nikkei Imin 115. Product Name: Tofu. Shiryôshû. Dai 5-kai [Collected Documents on Japanese Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. Emigration. No. 5]. [Jap; eng] Manufacturer’s Address: Alviso, California. • Summary: Th is book is read and numbered from “back Date of Introduction: 1910. to front” compared with typical English books; it is mostly New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1910. (99%) in Japanese. Th e English-language title page reads: Th e Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census Japanese American Year Book. entry p. 187. One male owner and no employees. Note: Alviso Th e book is divided into 10 parts, each numbered is at the southern tip of San Francisco Bay, midway between separately. Contents: (1) Front matter, incl. 1 ad (5 p.) (2) Fremont and San Jose. Also in 1911, Census entry p. 166. Table of contents (3 p.). (3) Map of California agriculture (fold out, in Japanese, 1 p.). (4) Black and white photos 116. Product Name: Tofu. on unnumbered pages (6 p., single sided). (5) Front part Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. of Nichibei Nenkan No. 6 (p. 1-237), including general Manufacturer’s Address: Oregon. information about America, Japanese in America, U.S. and Date of Introduction: 1910. agricultural census data, etc. (6) Ads (9 p.). (7) Nichibei New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1910. Nenkan continued (p. 238-50). (8) Original printing and Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census publication dates and data (1 p.) (9) Ads (2 p.). (10) New entry p. 201. Th ere is one tofu shop in the state of Oregon. printing and publication dates (2001), data, and ISBN (1 p.). Two male owners and no employees. A table (p. 39) shows Japanese population by states. For

Address: San Francisco, California.

121. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Japanese Tofu Shop (Name Unknown). Manufacturer’s Address: Seattle, Washington. Date of Introduction: 1911. September. New Product–Documentation: J. Ruhrah. 1911. Medical Record. Sept. 23. p. 626. “Soy Bean Cookery.” “In Seattle, Washington, and other places in the West, I am informed that tofu is made by the Japanese and sold to the Oriental residents.” Henry M. Loomis. 1914. American Food Journal 9(8):472-74. Aug. “Food products from the soy bean.” Describes tofu made in Seattle, Washington.

122. Product Name: Tofu. each state the population is subdivided by men, women, Manufacturer’s Name: Akaboshi Tofu-ya. and children. For Japanese, the 8 most populous states are: Manufacturer’s Address: 1509½ Geary St., San Francisco, California 55,901, Washington 16,930, Colorado 4,557, California. Oregon 3,873, Utah 2,529, Idaho 2,399, New York 2,260, and Date of Introduction: 1911. Wyoming 1,409. Th e totals are: Adult men 87,170. Women New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. 7,323. Children 4,222. Total 98,715. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory A table (p. 42) compiled from census data, shows that entry p. 17. Also in 1912 directory, p. 17. Note: Hidejima there were 2 shoyu makers in the USA, with 2 male owners Tofu-ya was at this address in 1914. and 4 male employees. Th ere were 42 tofu makers with 47 male owners, 10 male employees, and 1 female employee. 123. Product Name: Tofu. Note: Unlike other volumes, this relatively slender 1910 Manufacturer’s Name: Ashiura Tofu-ya. volume has no directory to give us the names the names and Manufacturer’s Address: 232 Nassau St., Brooklyn, New York addresses of these Japanese tofu and shoyu makers in the City, New York. USA. Date of Introduction: 1911. A table (p. 54-55) shows the general population (not only New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. Japanese) each decade in California from 1850 to 1910: It Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory grew from 92,597 in 1850, to 379,994 in 1860, to 1,208,130 in entry p. 136. Note: Th is may have been the un-named 1890, to 1,484,053 in 1900, to 2,564,363 in 1910. Japanese tofu shop in New York City in 1910. A table (p. 56) shows the Japanese population of California: 120 in 1878, 270 in 1880, 420 in 1884, 500 in 124. Product Name: Tofu. 1885, 1,000 in 1887, 2,300 in 1890, 4,500 in 1892. 6,000 in Manufacturer’s Name: Fukuzawa Tofu-ya. 1895, 13,000 in 1897, 25,000 in 1900, 30,000 in 1902, 35,000 Manufacturer’s Address: 1629 Oak St., Alameda, California. in 1903. Phone: Alameda 1589. A table (p. 56-60) shows the 1910 Japanese population Date of Introduction: 1911. in various counties and cities in California. For each it New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. subdivided into men, women, boys, and girls. In 1910 the Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Japanese population of California was 55,901, which was entry p. 33. Also in 1912 directory, p. 38. Th e company name about 2.2% of California’s total population. has changed slightly, to Fukuzawa Tofu-ten. Also in 1913, p. A table (p. 62) shows the total value in 1900 of various 40–name changed back to Fukuzawa Tofu-ya. Same phone crops in the USA and California. Th e soybean crop was no. Also in 1914, p. 44. worth $7,634,262 in the USA and $1,022,586 in California. A table (p. 172) gives the population of Japanese in 125. Product Name: Tofu. California by occupation; there is 1 shoyu maker (in Manufacturer’s Name: Hamada Tofu-ya. Oakland) and 32 tofu makers. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 683, Vacaville, California. Th e Directory shows Japanese companies making Date of Introduction: 1911. soyfoods in California, Oregon, Washington, Utah, Colorado, New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. New York City, and Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 47 entry p. 36. 1911 Census entry p. 155. Male owner and no Manufacturer’s Name: Kawaoka Tofu oyobi Sentaku-jo (Tofu employees. Note: Vacaville is in northern California, between shop and laundry). Fairfi eld and Sacramento. Also in 1912, p. 43. Also in 1913, Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 128, Lodi, California. p. 47. Date of Introduction: 1911. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. 126. Product Name: Tofu. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Manufacturer’s Name: Hashii Tofu-ya. entry p. 43. Note: Note: Kawaoka Tofu-ya was at this address Manufacturer’s Address: 319 Jackson St., Los Angeles, in 1906. Th is may have been the un-named Japanese tofu California. Phone: A2766. shop in Lodi in 1909 and 1910. Also in 1912 directory, p. 100, Date of Introduction: 1911. but the name is now Kawaoka Sentaku (Laundry), Tofu-ya. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory 132. Product Name: Tofu. entry p. 91. Manufacturer’s Name: Kozawa Tofu-ten. Manufacturer’s Address: 6th and Jackson St., Seattle, 127. Product Name: Tofu. Washington. Phone: L 5394. Manufacturer’s Name: Hayashi Tofu-ya. Date of Introduction: 1911. Manufacturer’s Address: 1621 Buchanan St., San Francisco, New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. California. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Date of Introduction: 1911. entry p. 144. Note: Th is may have been one of the three un- New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. named Japanese tofu shops in Seattle in 1909 and 1910. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 17. Also in 1912 directory, p. 17. Note: Ooe Tofu-ya 133. Product Name: Tofu. was at this address in 1913. Manufacturer’s Name: Matsumoto Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 116, Isleton, California. 128. Product Name: Soy sauce? Date of Introduction: 1911. Manufacturer’s Name: Honolulu Soy Manufactory. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. Manufacturer’s Address: 1100f N. King, Honolulu, Oahu, Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Hawaii. entry p. 61. Also in 1912. Directory entry p. 72. Also in Date of Introduction: 1911. 1913, p. 81. Also in 1914, p. 87. Note: Th is may have been New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of the un-named Japanese tofu shop in Isleton in 1909. Isleton Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1911. p. 304. Honolulu is in Sacramento County, California, about 25 miles south Soy Manufactory. K. Daimaru, mngr. 1100f N. King. of the city of Sacramento, west of Rio Vista and southwest of Walnut Grove. 129. Product Name: Soy sauce. Manufacturer’s Name: Ishizu (J.). 134. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Front St., Hilo, Island of Hawaii, Manufacturer’s Name: Matsumoto Tofu-ya. Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 15, Alviso, California. Date of Introduction: 1911. Date of Introduction: 1911. New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1911. p. 788. Ishigu, Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory J. [But Ishizu is correct]. soy mnfr, Front St., Hilo, Hawaii. entry p. 111. Also in 1912. Directory entry p. 138. Note: Th is Note: 1912 Directory (p. 813) lists J. Ishizu, soy, Front, Hilo. may have been the un-named Japanese tofu shop in Alviso in Ishizu is also listed in 1913, 1914, and 1915 directories. 1910.

130. Product Name: Tofu. 135. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Izumi Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Name: Minakami Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 950 Front St., San Diego, California. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 25, Selma, California. Phone: A2188. Date of Introduction: 1911. Date of Introduction: 1911. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 79. Note: Th is may have been the un-named Japanese entry p. 97. Also in 1912 directory, p. 123. tofu shop in Selma in 1910. Also in 1912 directory, p. 94, but the address is now P.O. Box 31. Also in 1913, p. 107. 131. Product Name: Tofu.

136. Product Name: Tofu. 141. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Mizoda Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Name: Ohta Tofu-ten (Ota Tofu Shop). Manufacturer’s Address: 1620 Park St., Alameda, California. Manufacturer’s Address: 266 Davis St., Portland, Oregon. Phone: Alameda 3092. Phone: A4069. Date of Introduction: 1911. Date of Introduction: 1911. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 33. Note: Hieda Tofu-ya was at this address in 1909 entry p. 151. In Japanese: Ohta Tofu-ten. In English: 266 (Directory entry p. 29). Davis St., Portland. Phone: A4069. Note: Th is may have been the un-named Japanese tofu shop in Portland in 1909. 137. Product Name: Tofu. However it is defi nitely the earliest document seen (July Manufacturer’s Name: Mizoue Tofu-ya. 2008) that mentions Ota Tofu in Portland, Oregon. Manufacturer’s Address: 1 Lake St., Salinas, California. Also in 1912 directory, p. 177, but the address is now 96 Date of Introduction: 1911. N. 5th St., and the phone is A1069. Also in 1913 directory, p. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. 226, but the address is now 86 N. 5th St., and the phone is A Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory 4069. entry p. 105. An ad also appears on p. C-28. Mizoue Tofu-ya. Hokubei Nenkan–North American Yearbook. 1913, p. Owner: Mr. Kamuzo Mizoue. Salinas, Lake St. Also in 1912 43. Th e names of the Ota brothers, Saizô and Heiji given in directory, p. 131, but the address is now 12 Lake St. Also in Japanese characters. No address is given, but the entry says 1913, p. 156. Also in 1914, p. 160. they came from Okayama. Nichibei Nenkan: Also in 1914, p. 215. But the address is 138. Product Name: Tofu. now 86½ N. 5th St. Manufacturer’s Name: Motooka Tofu-ya. Ad in Oregon News / Oshû Nippô. 1915. Jan. 1 (Taisho 4). Manufacturer’s Address: 1319 20th, Denver, Colorado. p. 20. Includes Ota Tofu-ten (at 86½ N. 5th Street, Portland). Date of Introduction: 1911. Note: Th e new location is only about 3 blocks from the New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. original one. Th is ad was discovered by Dave Conklin of Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Portland, Oregon (See March 2007 SoyaScan Interview). entry p. 132. Also in 1914, p. 198. But address is now 1848 Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei Nippon-jin Kan (Directory Market St. Note: Th is may have been the un-named Japanese of Japanese in the USA). p. 357. Ota Tofu-ten, 86½ North 5th tofu shop in Denver in 1909 and 1910. St., Portland. No phone number is given. Note: Th is is the earliest known soy product made in Th e Japanese American Directory. 1920. p. 451 (directory; Colorado. Ota Tofu-ten, 86½ N. 5th St., Portland. Phone: A4069). Also in 1921, p. 471 (directory). Also in 1923, p. 554 (directory; 139. Product Name: Tofu. slightly new address: 86 N. 5th St. Slightly new phone: Manufacturer’s Name: Nakajima Tofu-ya. 5-4069). Also in 1924, p. 595 (directory; new address: 86 N. Manufacturer’s Address: 265 24th St., Ogden, Utah. 4th St. New phone number: Bea 4069). Also in 1925, p. O-75. Date of Introduction: 1911. Also in 1926, p. O-76. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. S-319. Ota Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Tofu-ten, 86 North 4th St., Portland. Phone: BEa 4069. Also entry p. 122. in 1932, p. 612 (directory; 86 N. 4th St. Bea. 4089). Also in Note: Tofu oyobi Mochi-ya. was at this address in 1907. 1934, p. 519 (directory; new address: 322 N.W. 5th Ave., Th is may have been the un-named Japanese tofu shop in Portland. Phone: Bea. 4069). Also in 1936, p. 608. Also in Ogden in 1909 and 1910. 1937, p. 541. Also in 1938, p. 564. Also in 1939, p. 553. Also in 1940, p. 573 (directory; new phone number: BE 1720). 140. Product Name: Tofu. Hokubei Nenkan–Th e North American Times Year Book. Manufacturer’s Name: Noguchi Tofu-ya. 1936, p. 201. Saijiro? (or Takajiro? Katajiro?) Ota / Ohta. 322 Manufacturer’s Address: 2152 Dwight Way, Berkeley, N.W. 5th Ave., Phone: BE. 1720. California. Phone: Berkeley 6629. Home F1490. Polk’s Portland City Directory for 1915 has a listing for Date of Introduction: 1911. “Ota, S. Baths 86½ 5th N.” Th e 1921 edition, p. 954, lists New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. “Ohta, H. (T). Baker. 86½ 5th N. Home same.” Th e 1924 Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory edition, p. 1276, lists “Ota, H. Restaurant 86½ 5th N. Home entry p. 31. Also in 1912 directory, p. 36. Th e phone has same.” Th e 1926 edition lists “Ohta, S. Baker. 86½ 5th N. changed to Berkeley 6620. r do” (= Residence, ditto). Th e 1930 edition, p. 1232, lists “Ohta, Saizo (Shino). Food products. 86½ 5th N. Home, 92

5th N.” Th e 1936 edition, p. 976, lists “Ohta, Saizo wholesale Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. 22. Shurtleff baker 322...” Th e 1941 edition, p. 1130, lists “Ohta Saizo & Aoyagi. 1983. Soyfoods Industry & Market. Starting date (Shina) wholesale baker 322 NW 5th av h324 do.” Th e 1950 given as 1919. Dixon. 1987. Willamette Week (Portland, ed, p. 802, fi rst mentions soy: “Ohta Shina (widow of Saizo) Oregon). May 14. “Tofu and Tortillas on the Line. Th ird (Soybean Cake Co) home 322 NW 5th av.” Note: Why does generation members of the Ota clan continue a business this Caucasian-owned directory fail to understand that this started in 1918.” Th e company is now named Ota Tofu Co. company makes tofu, when the Japanese-owned directory Talk with Eileen Ota. 1992. March 26. History of Ota Tofu understands so clearly? (1) It could have been a lack of Shop in Portland, Oregon (which see) interest, combined with some racism. (2) Th ere may well Talk with Eileen Ota of Ota Tofu Co. in Portland. 2007. have been a language barrier, especially with a word like tofu, May 7 and June 11. Th e fi rst character of the name Ota has which was not yet part of the English vocabulary. (3) Th e always been written with the character pronounced “futoi” or Japanese, who were being persecuted during this time, may “Oh” and meaning “fat.” Th erefore, the name of this company not have wanted the dominant culture to know what they is pronounced “Ota” / “Ohta,” not “Futoda.” Both of the were doing–for various reasons. above addresses were defi nitely in Japantown, which was Crane Portland Directory. 1949, p. 12. “NW 5th–322 Soy north of Burnside Street. Chinatown was south of Burnside. Bean Cake Co.” During World War II, when the Japanese were evacuated and Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times relocated, the Chinese moved into Japantown and largely Directory]. 1952, p. 410. Under “Stores.” Surprisingly, there took it over. Eileen (who was born in 1949) recalls that when is no listing for Ota Tofu Co. However there is an entries the Japanese were allowed to return to Portland aft er World (p. 413) for four Ohtas residing in Portland: Ohta, George. War II, when she was growing up, there were still many 4743 S. Hawthorne St. Phone: EM. 5137 Ohta, Zenjiroo (or abandoned buildings in the old Japantown with winos and Yoshijiroo), 415 N. Kiska St. Ohta, Shina, 322 N.W. 5th Ave. gypsies living in them or in their doorways. Today Ohta Tofu Tel. BR. 8363. Ohta, Suejiroo, Rt. 7, Box 80-E. Th ere is also is located on the east side of the Willamette River, where they an entry (p. 410) for: In Japanese: Asahi Tofu-ten. In English: moved in about 1980-81. Asahi Tofu Co., 322 N.W. 5th Ave., Portland. Note: Talk with Letter (fax) from Geoff rey Wexler, Senior Archivist, Eileen Ota. 2009. April 9. Ko said their grandmother is said Oregon Historical Society, 1200 SW Park Ave., Portland, to have renamed the company Asahi Tofu Co. She remembers Oregon, to Mr. Roy Yotsuuye. 2007. June 1. Concerning the because when they were trying to choose a logo for their fi rst Ota Tofu Co. Th e “two addresses (226 [sic] Davis Street and packages, Ko’s father chose one with a sun on it; he said it was 96 North Fift h St.) were not the same location. Th e major because the company used to be called Asahi. At some point street renaming took place around 1892, when the ‘alphabet’ the grandmother moved (Eileen recalls) from 5th Ave. to 322 streets (A, B, C, etc.) were given the names of Portland N.W. Everett St. pioneers (Ankeny, Burnside, Couch, Davis, etc.). Th e next Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 799. major change was between 1931 and 1933, when all the house Directory entry, under “Japanese Food Stores.” In Japanese: numbers in the city were changed and many street names Oota Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: Ota Tofu Factory, 322 N.W. were altered too. At that time North Fift h Street became Everett, Portland, Oregon. Phone: 222-2454. Northwest Fift h Avenue, and Davis Street became Northwest Ito, Kazuo. 1973. Issei: A history of Japanese immigrants Davis Street.” in North America. Translated by Shinichiro Nakamura and Jean S. Gerard. Seattle, Washington: Executive Committee for 142. Product Name: Tofu. Publication of Issei, c/o Japanese Community Service, 1414 Manufacturer’s Name: Okamoto Tofu-ya. S. Weller St., Seattle, WA 98144. xxviii + 1016 p. Th e map of Manufacturer’s Address: 87 Jap Alley, Sacramento, the old Japanese district of Portland, Oregon, at the front of California. the book (unnumbered page) shows “Ohta Tofu Mfg.” located Date of Introduction: 1911. on 5th Ave., between N.W. Everett and N.W. Flanders. Page New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. 780 states this map is from the 1920s, but a Portland librarian Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory believes it was from 1935. entry p. 45. Note: Nishi Tofu-ya was at this address in 1909 Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. (Directory entry p. 39). Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops 143. Product Name: Tofu. and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 398. Ota Tofu Factory, 322 Manufacturer’s Name: Okamoto Tofu-ya. N.W. Everett St., Portland, OR 97209. Phone: 503-222-2456. Manufacturer’s Address: 440 Turner St., Los Angeles, Owner: Unknown. California. Phone: A2188. Th e company is now Ota Tofu Factory, 322 N.W. Everett Date of Introduction: 1911. St., Portland, Oregon 97209. Phone: 222-2456. Soyfoods New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911.

Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Date of Introduction: 1911. entry p. 91. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory 144. Product Name: Tofu. entry p. 45. Also in 1913, p. 58 at 1216 C 3rd St. Manufacturer’s Name: Okazaki Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 749, Tulare, California. 150. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1911. Manufacturer’s Name: Un-named Japanese tofu maker. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. Manufacturer’s Address: Carson, California. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Date of Introduction: 1911. entry p. 78. Note: Th is may have been the un-named Japanese New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. tofu shop in Tulare in 1909. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Census entry p. 157. Male owner and no employees. Note: Carson is 145. Product Name: Tofu. in Los Angeles County, southeast of the city of Los Angeles. Manufacturer’s Name: Oouchi (Ohuchi) Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 79 Jap Alley, Sacramento, 151. Product Name: Tofu. California. Manufacturer’s Name: Yonemura Tofu-ya. Date of Introduction: 1911. Manufacturer’s Address: 184 E. 14th St., Santa Barbara, New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. California. Phone: A2188. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Date of Introduction: 1911. entry p. 45. Note: Kamei Tofu-ya was at this address in 1909 New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. (Directory entry p. 39). Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 94. Note: Th is may have been one of the un-named 146. Product Name: Tofu. Japanese tofu shops in Santa Barbara in 1909 or 1910. Manufacturer’s Name: Sasaki Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 1675 Sutter St., San Francisco, 152. Alviso Co. (Th e) (Arubiso Shokai). 1911. Th e Alviso California. Co. (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. Nichi-Bei Nenkan Date of Introduction: 1911. [Japanese-American Yearbook. No. 7]. p. C-36. [Eng; jap] New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. • Summary: Ad (½ page). Th e top 1/3 of this ad is in English. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Th is company sells various goods including (in Japanese) entry p. 17. Note: Aramachi Tofu-ya was at this address in shoyu [soy sauce]. Th is ad also appears in the 1912 Year Book 1909 (Directory entry p. 14). (p. C-16), and in 1913 (p. 35). Also in 1914, p. 15 (near end). Th ey sell Japanese foods including shoyu, and Western foods. 147. Product Name: Tofu. Address: P.O. Box 15, San Jose, California. Phone: San Jose Manufacturer’s Name: Shigemoto Tamekichi Tofu-ya. 5417 R 1. Manufacturer’s Address: 370 8th St., Oakland, California. Date of Introduction: 1911. 153. Kagawa (T.) Company 1911. Importers and distributors New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. Nichi-Bei Nenkan Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory [Japanese-American Yearbook. No. 7]. p. C-64. [Eng; Jap] entry p. 27. • Summary: Ad (full page). About ¼ of this ad is given in English. Th is company imports and sells various goods. Th ese 148. Product Name: Tofu. include (in Japanese) shoyu [soy sauce], shiro miso [sweet Manufacturer’s Name: Tateishi-ya (Tachiishi) Tofu-ya. white miso], and aka miso [red miso]. And (in English) Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 46, Oxnard, California. “Japanese refi ned sake (Aramakiya-Masamune), rice, miso, Date of Introduction: 1911. sauce, canned goods, dried fi sh, vegetables & pickles.” New Product–Documentation: JAY. 1911. Ad (lower left Address: 442 Merchant St., San Francisco, California. Phone: corner), p. C-14. Public bath (yuya), tofu shop (tofu-ya). Mr. Kearny 1263. Kanzo Tateishi. Note: Th is may have been one of the two un- named Japanese tofu shops in Oxnard in 1910. Also appears 154. Nichibei Shinbun-sha (Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha). 1911. in 1912 directory, p. 121. Nichi-Bei nenkan [Japanese-American yearbook. No. 7]. 650 Ellis St., San Francisco, California. 647 p. Reprinted in 149. Product Name: Tofu. 2001-02 in Tokyo by Nihon Tosho Senta. Series: Nikkei Imin Manufacturer’s Name: Tomita Tofu-ya. Shiryôshû. Dai 5-kai [Collected Documents on Japanese Manufacturer’s Address: 1216 3rd St., Sacramento, Emigration. No. 5]. [Jap; eng] California. • Summary: Th is book is read and numbered from “back

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 53 to front” compared with typical English books; it is mostly A table of U.S. farm crops (p. 54, near the front of this (99%) in Japanese. Th e English-language title page reads: Th e book) shows that in 1911 some 2,785,516 bushels of soybeans Japanese American Year Book. were produced in the entire USA worth $7,767,702. Note: Th e book is divided into 12 parts, each numbered What is the source of these statistics? Th ese are very early separately. Contents: (1) Front matter, incl. 1 ad (5 p.) (2) statistics on soybean production in the United States–earlier Table of contents (6 p.). (3) Map of California agriculture than any known USDA statistics. (fold out, in Japanese, 1 p.). (4) Black and white photos on A table of U.S. imports and exports from Japan (p. 74) unnumbered pages (12 p., front and back). (5) Ads (p. A-1 shows that $109,316 worth of miso and shoyu were imported; to A-18). (6) Front part of Nichibei Nenkan No. 7 (p. 1-200), they were considered dutiable items, with a 40% duty levied including general information about America, Japanese in on each (part 2, p. 23). America, U.S. and agricultural census data, etc. (7) Ads (12 Th e Directory shows Japanese companies making p.). (8) Nichibei Nenkan continued (p. 108 p., incl. original soyfoods in California, Utah, Colorado, New York City, printing and publication dates and data on last page). (9) Washington state, and Oregon. Address: San Francisco, Ads (B-1 to B-66). (10) Directory of Japanese businesses and California. other organizations in the USA (p. 1-152, as of 1910 Oct. 1) (11) Ads (C-1 to C66). (12) New printing and publication 155. Noda Iwachi. 1911. [Hishigi miso] (Ad). In: Nichibei dates (2002 Feb. 25), data, and ISBN (1 p.). Shinbun-sha. 1911. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Th is year book focuses on Japanese in California. In early Yearbook. No. 7]. p. C-41. [Jap] 1909, the California legislature “approved an appropriation of • Summary: Ad (¼ page). Th is company sells various goods $10,000 to be utilized for investigating the conditions of the including shiro miso [sweet white miso], Kinzanji miso, Japanese in that state. Th e duty of directing the investigation and Hishigi Miso, made by Matsuda in Kobe, Japan, and naturally devolved upon the State Commissioner of Labor imported to the USA. Only the address in California is given Statistics (Rôdôkyoku-cho), Mr. John D. Mackenzie. Th e in English. Address: P.O. Box 114, Mountain View, California. work was begun on April 15, 1909, with the appointment of 9 Phone: San Jose 5417 R 1. special agents,” 8 men and one women, all white Americans. “Th ere were no Japanese or other aliens employed in any 156. Yabuno Bros. 1911. Yabuno Bros. (Ad). In: Nichibei capacity. To this force were added for the offi ce work two Shinbun-sha. 1911. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American expert statisticians and two stenographers.” In early 1910, Yearbook. No. 7]. p. B-3. [Eng; jap] Mr. Mackenzie submitted to the governor of California (Gov. • Summary: Ad (¼ page). Th e top half of this ad is in English. Gilette) a 78-page report (K. Kawakami 1912, p. 343-44). Th is company imports and sells Kishu Yuasa shoyu [soy Basic information about how the survey was conducted, sauce]. A photo shows a wooden keg of soy sauce. Th is ad its scope, and reaction to it is given on pages 27-28, 36-45, also appears in the 1912 Year Book (p. A-11), and in 1913 47, 61-62, 150-51 of this year book. Th e text is written in the (p. 26). Address: 1525 Geary St., San Francisco, California. Japanese of the day, which included old-fashioned characters, Phone: West 2324. Home S. 3651. sentence structure, and grammar–and is thus diffi cult for modern Japanese to read or translate. Th e surveyors went 157. Yamato Shokai (Yamato Co.). 1911. Dealers in Japanese to every part of California where Japanese believed to live, and American groceries and provisions and general and eventually surveyed an estimated 95% of the Japanese in merchandise (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. Nichi-Bei California. Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook. No. 7]. p. C-33. [Eng; Most Japanese welcomed the surveyors and responded Jap] accurately and in detail on forms which were printed in • Summary: Ad (¼ page). Th e top 1/3 of this ad is in English. both Japanese and English. A very high percentage of the Th is company sells various goods including (in Japanese) forms were returned by mail to the survey headquarters. Th e shoyu [soy sauce] and miso. Th is ad also appears in the 1913 Japanese were also asked to fi ll out more specialized forms yearbook (p. 35). Address: 630 N. 6th St., San Jose, California. such as business license, payment of taxes, no. of children Phone: San Jose 3379. in school (incl. where and in what grades), occupation, employment, land use, etc. Th is newspaper (Nichibei 158. Product Name: Shoyu. Nenkan) obtained much information from this survey, and Manufacturer’s Name: America Soy Brewing Co. Ltd. (apparently) from another census begun on 15 April 1910 (or (American Shoyu Jozo K.K.). is it 1909?); this one took one year and 5 days–fi nishing the Manufacturer’s Address: End of Banyan St., Honolulu, Oahu, research in April 1911, at which point compilation began. A Hawaii. key reason for the census was the strong anti-Japanese feeling Date of Introduction: 1912. August. in California, stirred up by leaders of the labor movement. New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of Th e survey praised Japanese in California. Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1912. p. 123. American

Soy Brewing Co. Ltd., D. Yonekura, president; M. Kawahara, New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. vice president; K. Iida, secretary; R. Niki, treas; George I. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Enomoto, mngr; end of Banyan. entry p. 188. Note: Th is may have been one of the three un- Also in 1916 Directory. American Soy Brewing Co. Ltd., named Japanese tofu shops in Seattle in 1909 and 1910. Banyan. 1928-29 Directory. American Hawaiian Soy Co. Ltd. mauka end Banyan. Is this the same or a diff erent company? 163. Product Name: Tofu. Both are on Banyan St. Manufacturer’s Name: Kajikawa Tofu-ya. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542- Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 186, Oxnard, California. 49. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Phone: Home 236. States that the company was founded in August 1912 by Mr. Date of Introduction: 1912. Danzaburo Yonekura. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. F. Odo and K. Sinoto. 1985. A Pictorial History of the Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Japanese in Hawaii, 1885-1924. Page 166. American Shoyu entry p. 121. Note: Th is may have been one of the two un- Co. was established in Honolulu in 1912. named Japanese tofu shops in Oxnard in 1910.

159. Takahashi, Seiichi. 1912. Mogi Shichirôuemon yori 164. Product Name: Shoyu. Kihaku Shôyu yushutsu ni tsuki tôchi shijô toiawase no ken Manufacturer’s Name: Kawazui. [Inquiry from Mr. Shichirôuemon Mogi about exporting Manufacturer’s Address: Waipahu, Oahu, Hawaii. Kihaku Shoyu to Seattle, Washington]. Seattle, Washington. 4 Date of Introduction: 1912. p. Nov. 27? Handwritten unpublished manuscript. Requested New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of by Mogi Shichirouemon of Noda, Chiba-ken. [Jap; eng] Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1912. p. 392. • Summary: Th is is a market report from Mr. Takahashi at the “Kawazui, soy, Waipahu.” Not listed in 1911. Japanese consulate in Seattle, to Mr. Yasunari Uchida at the Japanese Ministry of Foreign Aff airs. 165. Product Name: Tofu. About 5,000 Japanese live in Seattle, 5,000 outside, Manufacturer’s Name: Kimura Tofu-ten. Renamed Kimura and 2,000 elsewhere. Address: Japanese Consulate, Seattle, Tofu-ya by 1913. Washington. Manufacturer’s Address: 1521 C St. So., Tacoma, Washington. Phone: A 2425. 160. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1912. Manufacturer’s Name: Hashimoto Tofu-ya. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Manufacturer’s Address: 87 Jap Alley, Sacramento, Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory California. entry p. 190. Also in 1913, p. 219. However the company Date of Introduction: 1912. name is now Kimura Tofu-ya and the address has changed New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. slightly to 1519 South C [St]. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 53. Also in 1913, p. 58–at 87 Japanese Alley. Note: 166. Product Name: Tofu. Okamoto Tofu-ya was at this address in 1911 (Directory Manufacturer’s Name: Kitayama, Hayashi Tofu-ten. entry p. 45). Manufacturer’s Address: 509A 7th Ave. So., Seattle, Washington. Phone: Ind 2222. 161. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1912. Manufacturer’s Name: Hashimura Tofu-ten. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Manufacturer’s Address: 1620 Park St., Alameda, California. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Phone: Alameda 3092. entry p. 188. Note: Th is may have been one of the three un- Date of Introduction: 1912. named Japanese tofu shops in Seattle in 1909 and 1910. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory 167. Product Name: Tofu. entry p. 38. Note: Hieda Tofu-ya was at this address in 1909 Manufacturer’s Name: Konno Tofu-ya. (Directory entry p. 29), and Mizoda Tofu-ya in 1911. Manufacturer’s Address: 1216C 3rd St., Sacramento, California. 162. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1912. Manufacturer’s Name: Higashiuma (Toouma?) Tofu-ten. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Manufacturer’s Address: 522 Jackson St., Seattle, Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Washington. Phone: A1697. entry p. 53. Note: Tomita Tofu-ya was at this address in 1911 Date of Introduction: 1912. (Directory entry p. 29).

Also in 1921, p. 130. Also in 1922, p. 119. But the address is 168. Product Name: Tofu. now 615 N. 6th St. No phone number is given. Also in 1923, Manufacturer’s Name: Matsumura Tofu-ya. p. 138. But the address is now 635 N. 6th St. Still no phone. Manufacturer’s Address: 602 N. 6th St., San Jose, California. Also in 1925, p. N-113. Still no phone. Also in 1926, p. N-116. Phone: S.J. 3512. Also in 1930, p. 115. Date of Introduction: 1912. Timothy J. Lukes and Gary Y. Okihiro. 1985. Japanese New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. legacy: Farming and community life in California’s Santa Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Clara Valley. p. 22-23. A map titled “San Jose Nihonmachi” entry p. 135. Also in 1913, p. 164. Also in 1914, p. 167. But shows Nomitsu Tofu located on 6th St, 4 doors from Taylor the phone is now 3657. Street.

169. Product Name: Tofu. 173. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Murata Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Name: Oogushi Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 41, Moneta, California. Manufacturer’s Address: 319 Jackson St., Los Angeles, Phone: A2766. California. Phone: A2766. Date of Introduction: 1912. Date of Introduction: 1912. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 118. Also in 1913, p. 136. Note: Moneta is near entry p. 115. Note: Hashii Tofu-ya was at this address in 1911 Gardena and Norwalk, directly south of Los Angeles. (Directory entry p. 91).

170. Product Name: Tofu. 174. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Nabejima Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Name: Oouchida Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 257½ 54th St., Ogden, Utah. Manufacturer’s Address: 79 Jap Alley, Sacramento, Phone: 1089Y. California. Date of Introduction: 1912. Date of Introduction: 1912. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 154. Also in 1913, p. 117. Address is now 257 24th St. entry p. 53. Note: Oouchi (Ohuchi) Tofu-ya was at this Th ey also sell liquor–in Utah! Also in 1914, p. 183. Address is address in 1911 (Directory entry p. 45). now 256½ 24th St. Phone: 2301-W. 175. Product Name: Shoyu. 171. Product Name: Shoyu. Manufacturer’s Name: Pack (Y.O.). Manufacturer’s Name: Nakamura. Manufacturer’s Address: Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: Haleiwa, P.O. Waialua, Oahu, Date of Introduction: 1912. Hawaii. New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of Date of Introduction: 1912. Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1912. p. 566. “Pack, New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of Y.O., soy, rear 541 S. Beretania [Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaiian Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1912. p. 528. Islands]. Residence: Same.” Not listed in 1911. “Nakamura, soy, Waialua, P.O. Haleiwa” [Oahu, Hawaiian Islands]. Not listed in 1911. 176. Product Name: Tofu. Note: Is this Nakamura related to Nakamori in Waialua, Manufacturer’s Name: Sakamoto Tofu-ya. P.O. Haleiwa, in the 1913 directory. Manufacturer’s Address: 1675 Sutter St., San Francisco, California. 172. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1912. Manufacturer’s Name: Nomitsu Tofu-ya. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Manufacturer’s Address: 632 N. 6th St., San Jose, California. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Phone: S.J. 3379. entry p. 17. Note: Aramachi Tofu-ya was at this address in Date of Introduction: 1912. 1909 (Directory entry p. 14), and in 1911 was named Sasaki New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Tofu-ya (p. 17). Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 135. Also in 1913, p. 164. Also in 1914, p. 167. But 177. Product Name: Tofu. the phone number is now S.J. 786. Also in 1919, p. 110. But Manufacturer’s Name: Shomi (Komi? / Omi?) Tofu-ten. the phone number is now “San Jose 786.” Also in 1920, p. 119. Manufacturer’s Address: 119 E. Lafayette St., Stockton,

California. Buddhist priests... All Tengu live in high wooded mountains, Date of Introduction: 1912. far from villages.” New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Th is ad also appears in the 1913 yearbook. Address: 1122- Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory 1130 4th St., Sacramento, California (P.O. Box 258). entry p. 80. Also in 1913, p. 90. Also in 1914, p. 61. Note: Th is may have been the un-named Japanese tofu shop in Stockton 182. Hokubei Shokai. 1912. Hokubei Shokai (Ad). In: in 1910 (p. 178) and/or 1911 (p. 157). Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- American Yearbook. No. 8]. p. C-11. [Jap] 178. Product Name: Tofu. • Summary: Ad (½ page). Th is company (an original Manufacturer’s Name: Yaoya (Tofu-ya). manufacturer and importer, under special contracts) imports Manufacturer’s Address: 370 8th St., Oakland, California. various goods including miso and shoyu. Only the address in Phone: A5599 (Home). California (1 line) is given in English. Address: 246 Jackson Date of Introduction: 1912. St., San Jose, California. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory 183. Kinokuniya Co. (Th e). 1912. Th e Kinokuniya Co. (Ad). entry p. 29. Note: Shigemoto Tamekichi Tofu-ya was at this In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- address in 1911 (Directory entry p. 27). American Yearbook. No. 8]. p. C-16. [Eng; jap] • Summary: Ad (¼ page). Th e top ¼ of this ad is given in 179. Product Name: Tofu. English. Th is company sells various goods including (in Manufacturer’s Name: Yasunobu Tofu-ya. Japanese) miso and shoyu [soy sauce]. Address: 224 Jackson Manufacturer’s Address: Care Meiji Riyokan [Ryokan], Salt St., San Jose, California. Phone: San Jose 1276. Lake City, Utah. Date of Introduction: 1912. 184. Nichibei Shinbun-sha (Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha). 1912. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Nichi-Bei nenkan [Japanese-American yearbook. No. 8]. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory 650 Ellis St., San Francisco, California. 652 p. Reprinted in entry p. 153. 2001-02 in Tokyo by Nihon Tosho Senta. Series: Nikkei Imin Shiryôshû. Dai 5-kai [Collected Documents on Japanese 180. Product Name: Tofu. Emigration. No. 5]. [Jap; eng] Manufacturer’s Name: Yonemura Tofu-ten. • Summary: Th is book is read and numbered from “back Manufacturer’s Address: 184 E. 14th St., Riverside, to front” compared with typical English books; it is mostly California. Phone: Home 236. (99%) in Japanese. Th e English-language title page reads: Th e Date of Introduction: 1912. Japanese American Year Book. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Th e book is divided into 14 parts, each numbered Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory separately. Contents: (1) Table of contents (4 p.). (2) Ads entry p. 122. Also in 1913, p. 142–but now named Yonemura (4 p.). (3) Maps (2 p.): Map of the United States. Map of Tofu-ya. Phone: Home 1887. Note: Th is may have been one of California (1 p. each, in Japanese). (4) Graphs and charts on the two un-named Japanese tofu shops in Riverside in 1910. 4 unnumbered pages: (A) Bar chart: Population of Japanese living in the USA from 1869 to 1911 (some years missing 181. Aki Shokai (Aki Co., Inc. (Th e)). 1912. Th e Aki Co. (Ad). before 1904). Th ree pie charts: (B) In which U.S. states do In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- Japanese live. (C) Occupations of Japanese in USA. (D) American Yearbook. No. 8]. p. [C-41]. [Eng; jap] Japanese in USA by gender. (E) Bar chart: Agricultural land • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e top ¼ of this ad is given use by Japanese by state. (F) Bar charts of four things for 7 in English. Th is company sells various goods including (in years. (5) Black and white photos on 16 unnumbered pages. Japanese) miso and shoyu [soy sauce]. Th e company also (6) Advertisements (A-1 to A-18). (7) Front part (p. 1-150), has a Fresno branch at 1505 Kern St., Fresno, California. including general information about America, Japanese An illustration shows the face of a Tengu, a long-nosed in America, U.S. and agricultural census data, etc. (8) Ads mythological creature or goblin. Mock Joya (1960, p. 523) from San Francisco. (9) Back part (p. 1-136). (10) Assorted states: “Th e Tengu is the most widely feared of traditional ads (B-1 to B-66). Appendixes: (12) Table of contents of superhuman monsters. It is known to abduct young women, Directory of Japanese living in America (2 p.). Appendix 1. kidnap little children, and do other mischief but at the same Japanese living in America, alphabetically by state, and within time, much superhuman power of punishing the bad and each state by city (p. 1-194). Appendix 2. Assorted California helping the good is attributed to it.” It is part bird and part ads (p. C-1 to C-42). human, and is able to fl y at terrifi c speeds. “It is dressed in (4A) Population of Japanese living in the USA from 1869 a costume similar to that worn by yamabushi or mountain to 1911 (read from right to left ). 40 people in 1869, 55 in

JAPANESE POPULATION OF THE UNITED STATES (RIGHT TO LEFT; 1869-1911)

1871, 95 in 1874, 270 in 1878, 420 in 1884, 500 in 1885, 1,200 named Snail brought a group of 40 Japanese workers. In Meiji in 1887, 2,300 in 1890, 6,000 in 1895, 35,000 in 1899, 53,761 11 (1878) a census of Japanese in California was conducted. in 1904, 61,034 in 1905, 75,534 in 1906, 89,575 in 1907, peak In Meiji 37 (1904) the fi rst detailed research on Japanese in of 103,683 in 1908, 98,718 in 1909, 93,644 in 1911. California was conducted. (4B, top pie chart) In which U.S. states do Japanese live: Th e Directory shows Japanese companies making Total Japanese population in USA: 93,359. California 56,760. soyfoods in California, Utah, Oregon, and Washington. Washington 16,817. Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico Address: San Francisco, California. combined 5,083. Rocky Mountain region (Nevada, Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, Montana?) (Sanchubu-gun) 4,896. Oregon 185. Omiya / Ohmiya (Omiya Co. (Th e)). 1912. Th e Ohmiya 3,795. Colorado 3,731. New York 2,178. Idaho 1,168. Utah Co. (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Nichi-Bei Nenkan 1,472 (see also p. 79). [Japanese-American Yearbook. No. 8]. p. C-38. [Eng; jap] (4C, lower left pie chart) Occupations of Japanese in • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e top 1/5 of this ad is given USA: Total 76,000. Farm laborers 36,000. Domestics 8,000. in English. Th is company sells various goods including (in Merchants and hotel workers 7,500. Farm owners (Nogyo Japanese) irimame (roasted soybeans / soynuts). Address: keiei-sha) 5,000. 130½ South Park, San Francisco, California. (4D, lower right pie chart) Japanese in USA by gender: Total 93,359. Adult men 76,378. Adult women 9,673 (so 7.9 186. Ozaki Shoten (Okaki & Co.). 1912. Ozaki Shoten (Ad). men for each woman). Boys–American born 3,237. Girls– In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- American born 3,195. American Yearbook. No. 8]. p. C-24. [Eng; jap] (5) How Japanese worked agricultural land in the USA • Summary: Ad (¼ page). Th e top 1/5 of this ad is given (3 bar charts) (5A) Far left graph: Too hard to read bottom in English. Th is company sells various goods including (in of graph. (5B) Right graph: California. Colorado. Idaho. Japanese) shoyu [soy sauce]. A similar ad also appears in the Texas. Washington. Utah. Oregon. Nebraska. New York. 1913 Yearbook (last block of ads, p. 23). Says it is a branch of Florida. Other. (5C) 3rd graph (full page): Gives data from Ozaki Shoten, a shoyu maker in Wakayama, Japan. Address: 1905 to 1911 for the following states: California, Colorado, 404-406 E. First St., Los Angeles, California. Idaho, Texas, Washington, Utah, Oregon, Nebraska, New York, Florida, and Other. For each state gives the following: 187. Pacifi c Trading Co., Inc. 1912. General importers and black bar = genkin shakuchi = rent the land; pay cash (most exporters (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Nichi-Bei prevalent). White bar with wavy line = buai kôsaku = pay a Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook. No. 8]. Unnumbered percentage of the crop (#2 most prevalent). Dark diagonal page near front. [Jap; Eng] lines = ukeoi kôsaku = a person asks you to cultivate and • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e top one-fi ft h of this ad is in manage the land (#3 most prevalent). Light diagonal lines = English. Th is company imports various goods including (in shoyû = Cultivators owns the land (least prevalent). Japanese) shoyu and miso. In English: “Rice, soy, canned In 1910, the value of miso and shoyu imported from goods, vegetable wax, dried vegetable, crockery, chilli pepper, Japan to San Francisco topped $100,000. Also imports of dried ginger, etc.” “Cable address ‘PacTrad.’” soybean cakes (daizu kasu) from Manchuria increased Th e company’s full-page ad near the front of the 1914 rapidly (p. 75). Yearbook (p. 1) shows company trademarks / logos for In 1910, the value of shoyu and pickles imported from Kikkoman Shoyu and Higeta Shoyu. Address: 441-443 Clay Japan to Portland, Oregon, was $11,094 (p. 77). St., San Francisco, California. Phone: Kearny 1263. Douglas Basic information about how the survey was conducted, 170. Home C 5456. its scope, and reaction to it is given on pages 67, 73, 79-80, 90, 98-100, and 114 of this year book. Th e date on page 1 188. Tozai Boeki Shokai (Oriental & Occidental Trading of the directory is Meiji 44 (1911), Oct. 1. On page 67 is a Co.). (Th e). 1912. General importers and exporters (Ad). In: comparison of Japanese and American import and export Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1912. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- data–this data compiled by both countries; soy is not American Yearbook. No. 8]. p. C-36. [Eng; jap] mentioned. Pages 73 on show existing government forms that • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e top ¼ of this ad is given Japanese had fi lled out: Marriage certifi cate, birth certifi cate, in English. Th is company sells various goods including (in divorce, military draft , type of business and business license, Japanese) shoyu [soy sauce]. Address: 461 Pacifi c Building, agricultural work details, visa, etc. Th ese provided important Market St. at 4th, San Francisco, California. Phone: Douglas basic information for the surveys of Japanese in California. 3284. Pages 79, 80, and 90 contain data compiled by the Nichibei newspaper, perhaps a survey conducted by sending 189. Product Name: Tofu. out forms, with follow-up by phone calls. Th e fi rst Japanese Manufacturer’s Name: Fugetsu-do. laborers came into California in Meiji 2 (1869); A Dutchman Manufacturer’s Address: 1848 Market St., Denver, Colorado.

Date of Introduction: 1913. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 217. Note: Higashiuma (Toouma?) Tofu-ten was at entry p. 139. Th ey also make Japanese confections (o-kashi). this address in 1912 (Directory entry p. 188). Note: Motooka Tofu was at this address in 1914. 194. Product Name: Tofu. 190. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Kawamura Seigyo oyobi Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Name: Hideshima Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 84, Florin, California. Manufacturer’s Address: 1509½ Geary St., San Francisco, Date of Introduction: 1913. California. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. Date of Introduction: 1913. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese-American entry p. 61. Fresh fi sh market and tofu shop. Also in 1914, p. Yearbook (Nichibei Nenkan). No. 9 (Published by Nichibei 66. But the company name is now simply Kawamura Tofu-ya. [Shinbun], Japanese-American News). 1913. p. 25. Also in 1914. p. 14. 195. Product Name: Tofu. Talk with Mr. Seizô Oka, Head, History Room, Japanese Manufacturer’s Name: Kikuya. Cultural and Community Center, San Francisco. 1989. Dec. Manufacturer’s Address: 1429 20th, Denver, Colorado. 5. Th e man who ran this company was probably Shichisaburo Phone: Main 4090. Hideshima. He was later head of an employment agency. Date of Introduction: 1913. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. 191. Product Name: Tofu. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Manufacturer’s Name: Hinode Yao-ya. entry p. 139. Th ey also make Japanese confections (o-kashi). Manufacturer’s Address: 376 8th St., Oakland, California. Phone: Oakland 6613. 196. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1913. Manufacturer’s Name: King Tofu-ya. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. Manufacturer’s Address: 507A 7th Ave., Seattle, Washington. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Phone: Elliott 2222. entry p. 34. Fresh produce, fi sh market, and tofu maker. Also Date of Introduction: 1913. in 1914, p. 37. At the same address and phone. Th is time they New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. have an ad (in Japanese only, titled Japanese American foods) Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory but no directory listing, making us wonder whether they entry p. 217. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1919. p. 447 make tofu or buy it from elsewhere. Yet there are no other (directory; King Tofu-ya. Slightly new address: 507½ 7th S. tofu makers in Oakland. Th eir ad features tofu, but they also Alley, Seattle. New phone number: Ell. 2222). sell vegetables, pickles, dried goods and other food items. Note 1. A “yao-ya” is a greengrocer. Note 2. Th is company 197. Product Name: Tofu. is still in Oakland in 1940, but at a diff erent address. Manufacturer’s Name: Kuwamoto Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 2516½ Shattuck Ave., Berkeley, 192. Product Name: Tofu. California. Phone: Berkeley 6916. Manufacturer’s Name: Ito Tofu-ten. Date of Introduction: 1913. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 6M6, Sugar City, Idaho. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. Date of Introduction: 1913. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. entry p. 39. Also in 1914, p. 42. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 186. 198. Product Name: Miso. Note 1. Th is is the earliest known commercial soy product Manufacturer’s Name: Marumi Miso Seizo-sho. made in Idaho. Manufacturer’s Address: 2113 S. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles, Note 2. Th is is the earliest known commercial tofu maker California. Phone: 71525. in Idaho. Date of Introduction: 1913. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. 193. Product Name: Tofu. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Manufacturer’s Name: Jackson Tofu-ya. entry p. 126. Also in 1914, p. 128. But the address is now 607 Manufacturer’s Address: 522 Jackson St., Seattle, N. Alameda St. Phone: A 2818. Note: Th is is the 2nd earliest Washington. Phone: Elliott 1697J. known miso manufacturer in Los Angeles or in California Date of Introduction: 1913. (one of two).

199. Product Name: Tofu. 203. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Misuzu (?) Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Name: Oohira Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 319 Jackson St., Los Angeles, Manufacturer’s Address: 7 Nassau Court, Brooklyn, New California. Phone: A 1682 or Bro. 3503. York City, New York. Date of Introduction: 1913. Date of Introduction: 1913. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 126. Also in 1914, p. 128. Note: Oogushi Tofu-ya was entry p. 209. at this address in 1912 (Directory entry p. 115). 204. Product Name: Miso. 200. Product Name: Shoyu. Manufacturer’s Name: Rafu Miso Seizo-sho [Los Angeles Manufacturer’s Name: Nakamori. Miso Manufacturing Co.]. Manufacturer’s Address: Haleiwa, P.O. Waialua, Oahu, Manufacturer’s Address: 6079 N. Alameda St., Los Angeles, Hawaii. California. Phone: A 2818. Date of Introduction: 1913. Date of Introduction: 1913. New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1913. p. 557. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory “Nakamori, soy, Waialua, P.O. Haleiwa” [Oahu, Hawaiian entry p. 126. Note: Th is is the 2nd earliest known miso Islands]. Not listed in 1912. manufacturer in Los Angeles or in California (one of two). Note: Is this Nakamori related to Nakamura in Waialua, “Rafu” is the Japanese nickname for Los Angeles. P.O. Haleiwa, in the 1912 directory. 205. Product Name: Tofu. 201. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Shikasho Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Name: Nitahara / Manufacturer’s Address: 79 Japanese Alley, Sacramento, Nidawara Tofu-ya. California. Manufacturer’s Address: 1620 Date of Introduction: 1913. Park St., Alameda, California. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. Phone: Alameda 3092. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Date of Introduction: 1913. entry p. 58. Note: Oouchida Tofu-ya was at this address in New Product–Documentation: 1912 (Directory entry p. 53). Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. Nichi- Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American 206. Product Name: Tofu. Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 42. Manufacturer’s Name: Shirai Tofu-ya. Note: Hieda Tofu-ya was at this Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 186, Oxnard, California. address in 1909 (Directory entry Phone: Home 236. p. 29), Mizoda Tofu-ya in 1911, Date of Introduction: 1913. and Hashimura Tofu-ten in 1912 New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. (Directory entry p. 38). Same Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory phone no. entry p. 140. Also in 1914, p. 145. Note: Kajikawa Tofu-ya was at this P.O. Box in 1912 (Directory entry p. 121). 202. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Ooe Tofu- 207. Product Name: Tofu. ya. Manufacturer’s Name: Takahashi Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 1621 Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 94, Visalia, California. Buchanan St., San Francisco, Date of Introduction: 1913. California. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. Date of Introduction: 1913. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory New Product–Documentation: entry p. 112. Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. Nichi- Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American 208. Product Name: Tofu. Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 25. Manufacturer’s Name: Tsumiyoshi (Sekizen?) Tofu-ya. Also in 1914, p. 14. Phone: West Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 46, Oxnard, California. 2157. Phone: Home R 129.

Date of Introduction: 1913. N. Alameda Ave., Los Angeles, California. But 80% of the New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. ad is in Japanese. Th e large Marusan brand and logo (three Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory horizontal lines in a circle) is at the top center of the Japanese entry p. 140. Also in 1914, p. 145. Note: Tateishi (Tachiishi?) portion. Phone: 12818. Making and selling shiro miso [sweet Tofu-ya was at this address in 1911 (Ad p. C-14). white miso]. Th e original maker of miso in the United States. Marusan Joto [high class] shiro miso and special koji. Note: 209. Product Name: Tofu. Th is company (which now has only an English name) was Manufacturer’s Name: Tsuruta Tofu-ya. one of two which began making miso in Los Angeles in 1913. Manufacturer’s Address: 218 1st St., Marysville, California. Of the two, this company may very well started to make its Date of Introduction: 1913. miso fi rst, and/or started to sell its miso commercially fi rst. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. Sweet white miso takes less time to make than any other type Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory of miso. entry p. 71. Also in 1914, p. 76. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1920. p. 296. Directory entry reads (all in Japanese): Marusan Miso Seizô-sho, 605 210. Asahi Shokai K.K. 1913. Asahi Co., Inc. (Ad). In: N. Alameda St. Phone: 12818. Also in 1921, p. 305. Ad (¼ Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- page) all in Japanese. A huge Marusan logo fi lls the top half American Yearbook. No. 9]. p. 31 (near end). [Eng; jap] of the ad. Th e address is now given as 605 N. Alameda St. • Summary: Ad (¼ page). Th e top ¼ of this ad is given (607-609). Also in 1921 directory, p. 314. Also in 1922, p. in English. Th is Japanese company imports many items, 303 (½-page ad. At top of ad is written in English: “L.A. Miso including miso and shoyu. Ad also in the 1914 Yearbook, p. Mfg. Co., 605-7-9 N. Alameda Street, Los Angeles, Calif.” 40 in last block of ads near end of book. Address: P.O. Box Large, bold Marusan logo below that. KATO Shigetaro is now 1057, Oxnard, California. Phone: Home 116. Red 322. owner), and p. 315 (directory). Also in 1923, p. 332 (ad) and p. 355 (directory). Also 211. Iwakami & Co. 1913. Importers and wholesale dealers in in 1924, p. 371 (impressive full-page ad. Founded in 1912 Japanese merchandise (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. [but SC’s earliest record is 1913]) and p. 394 (directory; new Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook. No. 9]. p. phone number: 826773). Also in 1925, p. S-15 (full-page ad; 1. [Eng; jap] new phone number: VAndike 6773. Founded in 1912) and p. • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e top and bottom 1/5 of this S-44 (directory; new phone number: VA 6773). Also in 1926, ad are given in English. Th is company imports shoyu and p. S-35 (directory). Address: Los Angeles, California. Phone: miso from Japan. Address: 427-435 Commercial Street, San A 2818. Francisco, California. Phone: Kearny 2447. Home C 2447. 213. Nichibei Shinbun-sha (Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha). 1913. 212. Marusan Joto Shiromiso. Renamed Marusan Miso Nichi-Bei nenkan [Japanese-American yearbook. No. 9]. Seizo-sho in 1920. 1913. Marusan Sweet White Miso (Shiro- 650 Ellis St., San Francisco, California. 716 p. Reprinted in Miso), Special Koji. 607-609 North Alameda, Los Angeles, 2001-02 in Tokyo by Nihon Tosho Senta. Series: Nikkei Imin California. [Eng; jap] Shiryôshû. Dai 5-kai [Collected Documents on Japanese • Summary: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1913. Nichi-Bei Nenkan Emigration. No. 5]. [Jap; eng] (Japanese-American Yearbook). Ad (full page), p. 27 near end • Summary: Th is book is read and numbered from “back of book. Our goods are the best (Marui beppin). Mr. Saburo to front” compared with typical English books; it is mostly Takasugi, owner. Th is company makes sweet white miso (99%) in Japanese. Th e English-language title page reads: Th e (shiro miso) and special koji, which it says are better than Japanese American Year Book. similar products imported from Japan. Th is ad also appears Th e book is divided into 13 parts, each numbered in the 1914 Yearbook, p. 28 near end of book. separately. Contents: (1) Front matter (incl. how this book A similar half-page vertical ad appears in the 1918 was created) (5 p.). (2) Table of contents, general (4 p.). (3) Yearbook (p. 31). “L.A. Miso Mfg. Co., 605-7-9 N. Alameda Table of contents, ads (4 p.). (4) Photos (black and white St., Los Angeles, California.” Trade mark: Shows 3 horizontal on 12 unnumbered pages). (5) Graphs and charts on 4 lines in a circle (“Reg. U.S. Pat. Off .”), pronounced either unnumbered pages: Th ree pie charts for 1912: (A) In which “Marusan” or “marumi” (the latter means “fl avor” in U.S. states do Japanese live. (B) Occupations of Japanese in Japanese). In Japanese is written (in big, bold characters). USA. (C) Japanese in USA by gender. Two pie charts (D-E). Rafu Shiro-miso Seizô-sho. Takasugi Saburo. Shiro-miso Increase and decrease of Japanese population by gender. (F) seizô-sho. Bar chart: Agricultural land use by Japanese by state. (G) Th e Japanese American Directory. 1920. p. 274. Ad Agricultural crops grown by Japanese. (6) Photo of the site to (¼ page), top right. Th e company name and address are be of the Panama-Pacifi c International Exposition (1915) in written in English at the top of this ad: L.A. Miso Co., 607 San Francisco. (7) Two maps: Map of the United States. Map

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 65 of California (2 p.). (8) Advertisements (A-1 to A-18). (9) Front part (p. 1-152), including general information about America, Japanese in America, U.S. and agricultural census data, etc. (10) Ads (p. 1-16). (11) Back part (p. 1-142). (12) Ads (B-1 to B-64). Appendixes: (13) Table of contents for directory of places where Japanese live in America, by state, and within each state by city: In Japanese (2 p.). In English (2 p.). (14) Directory of Japanese living in America, interspersed with ads (p. 1-228). (15) Ads (p. 1-50). (16) Copyright page. In a table (p. 57), one vertical line gives soybean production statistics in Japan from 1905-1909 (fi ve year average): Area: 464,021 cho (1 cho = 2.45 acres; so 1,136,851 acres). Production: 3,766,962 koku (1 koku = 180 liters = 47.6 gallons = 308 lb = 5.13 bushels; so 1,932,452 bushels). Average yield 0.87 koku/tan or tanpo. Note: Something seems to be wrong with these soybean statistics. Th e yield of Japanese soybeans seems too low; only about 1-2 bushels per acre. A table (p. 92) shows Japanese population in the top 8 U.S. states in 1912. Th ere are 7 columns: Male adults, female adults, male children born in USA, male children born in Japan, female children born in USA, female children born in Japan, and total. Th e totals are: California: 58,555. Washington: 16,037. Colorado 3,556. Oregon 3,518. New York 2,002. Idaho 1,392. Utah 1,390. Montana 972. Individual lines in various tables (p. 115-150) show tofu, miso and shoyu makers in the United States by state, and within California by city. Th ere are 7 columns: Location, Geary St., San Francisco, California. Phone: Filmore 2179. S total no. of shops, no. of owners, investment ($), sales ($/ 2947. year), workers, salary ($/year). Th e number of tofu makers by state is: California 28. Utah (Ogden) 1. Idaho 2. Colorado 215. Product Name: Tofu. (Denver) 2. Oregon 1. Washington 9. Th ere are also 2 miso Manufacturer’s Name: Fujiwara Tofu-ten. makers in Los Angeles and 1 shoyu maker in Oregon. Manufacturer’s Address: 168½ W.S. Temple St., Salt Lake Columns 1-2 are fi lled out for all entries, columns 3-4 for City, Utah. Phone: Was. 4816. all California entries, and columns 5-6 for about half the Date of Introduction: 1914. California entries. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. A table (p. 26-27) shows import tariff s on goods from Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Japan. Th ese include: Soybeans $0.45/bushel. Shoyu, entry p. 180. miso, deep fried tofu pouches (aburage), dried frozen tofu Note: Between the two shops listed on this page is another (Koyadofu) and yuba 40% of their value, but a request is business named Yaezono, which may well be a tofu shop being made to change the shoyu, the two tofu products and as well, but this is not clear. Yaezono is located at 47 S.W. the yuba to 20%. Temple St, Salt Lake City, Utah. However, strangely, in the Th e Directory shows Japanese companies making census part of this book, there are no tofu shops listed in Salt soyfoods in California, Utah, Idaho, Colorado, New York, Lake City. Washington state, and Oregon. Address: San Francisco, California. 216. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Hashimoto Tofu-ya. 214. Tanaka Shoten. 1913. K. Tanaka Co. (Ad). In: Nichibei Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 94, Visalia, California. Shinbun-sha. 1913. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Date of Introduction: 1914. Yearbook. No. 9]. p. 43 (near end). [Eng; jap] New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. • Summary: Ad (¼ page). Th e top ¼ of this ad is given Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory in English. Th is Japanese company imports many items, entry p. 117. Note: Takahashi Tofu-ya had this P.O. Box in including sake, white rice, miso and shoyu. Address: 1531 1913.

217. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Hidejima Tofu-ya. 223. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 1509½ Geary St., San Francisco, Manufacturer’s Name: Nojima Tofu-ya. California. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 136, Isleton, California. Date of Introduction: 1914. Date of Introduction: 1914. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 14. entry p. 87.

218. Product Name: Tofu. 224. Product Name: Shoyu. Manufacturer’s Name: Kurosumi (Kokuju?) Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Name: Noto (G.). Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 427, Sebastopol, Manufacturer’s Address: Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. California. Date of Introduction: 1914. Date of Introduction: 1914. New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. the Territory of Hawaii. 1914. p. 534. “Noto, G., soy, 1339 Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Liliha [Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaiian Islands]. Residence: Same.” entry p. 174. Note: Sebastopol is a town in Sonoma County, Not listed in 1913. about 52 miles north of San Francisco. 225. Product Name: Tofu. 219. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Okamoto Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Name: Matsumoto Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 185, San Juan, California. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 95, Dinuba, California. Date of Introduction: 1914. Date of Introduction: 1914. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 164. Note: Today, San Juan, located in Orange entry p. 115. County, is probably the same as San Juan Capistrano, named aft er the mission founded there by Padre Junipero Serra on 1 220. Product Name: Tofu. Nov. 1776. Manufacturer’s Name: Nakadate (Nakatate or Nakatachi?) Tofu-ya. 226. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 21 Sausal St., Salinas, California. Manufacturer’s Name: Oye (Ohye) Tofu-ya. Date of Introduction: 1914. Manufacturer’s Address: 1621 Buchanan St., San Francisco, New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. California. Phone: West 2157. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Date of Introduction: 1914. entry p. 160. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese-American Yearbook (Nichibei Nenkan). No. 10 (Published by Mr. 221. Product Name: Tofu. Kyutaro Abiko, of Nichibei [Shinbun], Japanese-American Manufacturer’s Name: Nakajima Tofu-ya. News). 1914. p. 14. Th e company name is written with the Manufacturer’s Address: 220 Japanese Ave., Sacramento, Chinese characters meaning “Large + Bay.” Tofu-ya means California. “Tofu company.” Date of Introduction: 1914. Talk with Mr. Seizô Oka, Head, History Room, Japanese New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. Cultural and Community Center, San Francisco. 1989. Dec. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory 5. He has talked with Mrs. Sumiko Kawashima (maiden entry p. 62. name Oye/Ohye) who now lives in Hinode Tower. Her father, Mr. Masuzo Oye was an early tofu maker in San Francisco. 222. Product Name: Tofu. Before him, one of the earliest in San Francisco was said to be Manufacturer’s Name: Nishimoto Tofu-ya. Jitsutaro Hayashi. Manufacturer’s Address: 184 14th St., Riverside, California. Phone: Home 1887. 227. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1914. Manufacturer’s Name: Rafu Tofu-ya (Los Angeles Tofu New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. Shop). Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Manufacturer’s Address: 446 Jackson St., Los Angeles, entry p. 149. Note: Yonemura Tofu-ya was at this address in California. Phone: A2896. 1913. Date of Introduction: 1914.

New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. See also Tanaka Tofu Seizo-sho (Tanaka Tofu) (1934). Are Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory these two companies, which have very similar names and the entry p. 128. Note: Rafu is the Japanese nickname for Los exact same addresses, related? Angeles. Hirano Tofu-ya was at this address in 1911. Hokubei Shinpo-sha. 1948. Nyuyoku Benran: Tsuketari jushoroku, 1948-1949 nendo [New York Japanese American 228. Product Name: Tofu. directory: 1948-1949]. Who’s Who section, p. 22. In 1914, Manufacturer’s Name: Sakai Tofu-ya. aft er a brief visit to Japan, he returned to the U.S., settling Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 231, Walnut Grove, in New York, where he soon entered his present business. California. He continued the tofu shop until the outbreak of World Date of Introduction: 1914. War II. In 1942 he moved into his present shop at 159 East New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. 53rd St [between Lexington and 3rd Ave. if in NYC]. Note: Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory It is not clear when (probably in about 1914) and at what entry p. 85. Walnut Grove is a small town in Sacramento address he began making tofu in New York–nor what the County, California, at the bend in the Sacramento River, fi rst name of his tofu company was. In the same book an ad about 20 miles south of the city of Sacramento. on an unnumbered page about 22 pages aft er Mr. Tanaka’s biography states in English: K. Tanaka Co. Inc., 144 West 229. Product Name: Tofu. 65th, New York 23, N.Y. Tel. TRafalgar 4-6600. Tel. TRafalgar Manufacturer’s Name: Satake Tofu-ya. 4-6601. 159 East 53rd Street, New York, 22, N.Y. Tel. Plaza Manufacturer’s Address: 79 Japanese Ave., Sacramento, 3-5218. In Japanese: Tanaka Shokai, Mr. Kaijiro Tanaka and California. Mr. Kazuo Nakayama. All Japanese foods. Tofu manufacturer. Date of Introduction: 1914. Care package shipping service to Japan. Direct import of New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. foods. Note 3. Of the two addresses given above in English, Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory the 2nd one (159 E. 53rd St.) is for the tofu shop. entry p. 62. In section (3) titled Nyuyoku Benran, on page 29 is a subsection on tofu business. In about May 1943 they were 230. Product Name: Tofu. selling 400 to 500 cakes (chô) of tofu per month. One year Manufacturer’s Name: Takao Tofu-ya oyobi Gyokujo / later in 1944 they were selling 1,200 cakes per month. Mr. Tamaba? (Pool Hall / Billiards). Tanaka said that one reason for the increased price of tofu Manufacturer’s Address: Care of Quon Chong Kee, Loomis, was the increase in the Japanese population in New York, as California. they returned to the city. Date of Introduction: 1914. Th e all-English directory at back of book states under New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. New York City–Oriental Foods: “Tanaka, K., Co., Inc. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory (Sunrise Rice Cake Co.), 159 East 53rd St., New York (22). entry p. 70. Note 1. No street address or P.O. box number Plaza 3-5218. Branch: (Formerly E.L. Sauce Co.), 144 W. 65th is given. Note 2. Loomis is in Placer County, northeast of St., New York (23); TRafalgar 4-6600 and TRafalgar 4-6601.” Sacramento between Rocklin and Auburn. 233. Product Name: Tofu. 231. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Tayama Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Name: Tamada Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 524, Penryn, California. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 402, Lodi, California. Date of Introduction: 1914. Date of Introduction: 1914. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory entry p. 72. Note: Penryn is in Placer County, northeast of entry p. 98. Sacramento, near Auburn.

232. Product Name: Tofu. 234. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Tanaka Tofu-ya (K. Tanaka Co., Inc.). Manufacturer’s Name: Wada Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 885 3rd Ave., New York City, New Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 33, Selma, California. York. Phone: Plaza 5218. Date of Introduction: 1914. Date of Introduction: 1914. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory Directory. 1925. p. O-69. Company name is in Japanese entry p. 109. characters: Tanaka Tofu-ya. Address and phone are in English: 885 3rd Ave., New York City, NY. Phone: Plaza 5218. 235. Product Name: Tofu.

Manufacturer’s Name: Yamamoto Ryokan, Tofu-ya. a billiard parlor, and they make and sell tofu. Note: Th is Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 372, Newcastle, California. company has the same phone number as Shirae Tofu-ya in Date of Introduction: 1914. Oxnard. New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory 240. Nichibei Shinbun-sha (Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha). 1914. entry p. 73. Note: A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn. So Nichi-Bei nenkan [Japanese-American yearbook. No. 10]. the owners operate both an inn and a tofu shop. Newcastle 650 Ellis St., San Francisco, California. 693 p. Reprinted in is in Placer County, northeast of Sacramento, in the foothills Feb. 2002 in Tokyo by Nihon Tosho Senta. Series: Nikkei of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, between Loomis and Imin Shiryôshû. Dai 5-kai [Collected Documents on Japanese Auburn. Emigration. No. 5]. [Jap; eng] • Summary: Th is book is read and numbered from “back 236. Product Name: Tofu. to front” compared with typical English books; it is mostly Manufacturer’s Name: Yamamoto Tofu-ten. (99%) in Japanese. Th e English-language title page reads: Th e Manufacturer’s Address: 39½ S.W. Temple St., Salt Lake City, Japanese American Year Book. Utah. Phone: Was. 4816. Th e book is divided into 14 parts, each numbered Date of Introduction: 1914. separately. Contents: (1) Front matter (incl. how this book New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. was created) (5 p.). (2) Table of contents, general (4 p.). Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory (3) Table of contents, ads (4 p.). (4) Photos (black and entry p. 180. white on 15 unnumbered pages). (5) Maps and charts on 3 unnumbered pages. (6) Advertisements (A-1 to A-16). (7) 237. Fugetsu-do. 1914. Fugetsu-do (Ad). In: Nichibei Front part (p. 1-165), including general information about Shinbun-sha. 1914. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American America, Japanese in America, U.S. and agricultural census Yearbook. No. 10]. p. 45 in last block of ads. [Jap; eng] data, etc. (8) Ads (p. 1-13). (9) Back part (p. 1-136). (10) Ads • Summary: Ad (1/8 page). All in Japanese, except for (p. 1-66). Appendixes: (11) Table of contents for directory of 1 line (the company address in English). Mr. Torakichi places where Japanese live in America, by state, and within Honoka [owner]. Th is Japanese company sells tofu, Japanese each state by city: In Japanese (2 p.). In English (2 p.). (12) confections, and fi sh. Note: In 1913 this company made tofu. Directory of Japanese living in America, interspersed with But in 1914 Motooka Tofu was also located at 1848 Market ads (p. 1-228). (13) Ads (2 p. + p. 1-50). (14) Copyright page. St. What does that mean? Address: 1848 Market St., Denver, In the front part: Th ere is no import duty / tax on Colorado. soybean oil. Th e value of the total amount imported was $733,937 (p. 87). Th ere is also no import tax on soybeans 238. Hashimoto (E.D.) Co. 1914. Hashimoto Shokai (Ad). In: (written “sooyabinzu” in katakana for the fi rst time in these Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1914. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- Yearbooks) (p. 87). Th e total value of soybeans imported to American Yearbook. No. 10]. Unnumbered page before last San Francisco was $27,867 (p. 91). Th ere is (again) no tax on block of ads. [Eng; jap] soy oil (written Soyamame Abura, in kanji). Th e total value • Summary: Ad (full page; see next page). Only two lines in of soy oil imported to Portland, Oregon was $13,692. No tax the text of this ad are in English: Th e company name and on soy sauce pickled imported to Portland, Oregon, worth address. Th is Japanese company imports many food items, $10,353 (p. 94). including miso and shoyu. A large photo shows the front of A table (p. 97) shows the Japanese population in the USA the company, with two delivery wagons parked in front. Th e for most years from 1860 (6 people) to 1913. For recent years: company name is also written in English (Roman letters) on 1907–89,573. 1908–103,683 (peak). 1909–98,715. 1910– one sign above the shop and on another on the side of one 91,958. 1911–93,359. 1912–93,751. 1913–95,843. wagon. Address: 163-165 N.S. Temple St., Salt Lake City, A table (p. 98) shows Japanese population in the USA Utah. Phone: Was. 3442. in the 8 states with the highest populations: California, Washington state, Oregon, Colorado, New York, Utah, 239. Product Name: Tofu. Montana, Wyoming. Manufacturer’s Name: Miyajima-kan. A table (p. 102) shows the number of tofu shops in the Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box Q, Oxnard, California. USA: Total 48. Owners 48. Workers 7. Th is research was Phone: Home 236. conducted by Nihonsha (“Japanese Company”). Date of Introduction: 1914. January. A table (p. 103) shows the total population of California New Product–Documentation: Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese- from 1850 to 1919 (projected) and percentage increase American Yearbook]. 1914. Directory entry p. 62. Ad (in during each decade: 1850–92,957 (-). 1860–379,994 (310% English and Japanese) on p. 40 in last block of ads. Th ey sell increase). 1870–560,247 (47%). 1880–864,694 (54%). 1890– Japanese and western foods, and other goods. Th ey have 1,213,398 (40%). 1900–1,485,053 (22%). 1919–2,377,540

Population of Japanese in the United States (1868-1913)

120000

100000

80000

60000

40000

20000

0 1860 1870 1880 1890 1900 1910 1920

(60%–projected). Note 1. Th is is the earliest indication we have that the Ota Individual lines in various tables (p. 127-163) show tofu, brothers owned this tofu shop. miso and shoyu makers in the United States by state, and Note 2. Many small greetings / ad in boxes are on the within California by city. Th ere are 7 columns: Location, bottom half of a newspaper page; the top half contains total no. of shops, no. of owners, investment ($), sales ($/ Japanese text related to the New Year. year), workers, salary ($/year). Th e number of tofu makers by state is: California 34. Utah (Ogden) 1. Colorado (Denver) 244. Hakurankwai Kyokwai (Societe des Expositions). 1915. 2. New York City 1. Oregon 1. Washington 9. Th ere is also 1 Japan and her exhibits: At the Panama-Pacifi c International miso maker in Los Angeles and 1 shoyu maker in Oregon. Exhibition, 1915. Tokyo: Hakurankwai Kyokwai. Printed by Columns 1-2 are fi lled out for all entries, columns 3-4 for the Japan Magazine Co. 373 p. See p. 102, 103, 115, 241-45, all California entries, and columns 5-6 for about half the 248-55. Illust. No index. 19 cm. [Eng] California entries. Note: Th e information on this page is not • Summary: Th is exhibition was held in San Francisco, in the identical to that in the directory. For example, for Utah, the Marina district, to celebrate the city’s recovery from the 1906 directory shows 3 tofu shops in Salt Lake City and one in earthquake. Th e grounds were built on landfi ll consisting Ogden. of rubble from the quake. As of 1989, the only remaining A table (p. 155) shows Japanese population in the top 8 building is the Palace of Fine Arts. East Coast states in 1913. Th ere are 4 columns: State, males, Th e section in this book titled “Vegetable food products females, and total. Th e totals are (in descending order of and agricultural seeds” (p. 241) lists the name, address, population): New York: 2,209. New Jersey 277. Massachusetts and products of companies that process soybeans. Eight 230. Pennsylvania 223. Florida 89. Washington, DC 54. companies that make “Soy bean oil” or “Bean oil” as their Rhode Island 41. Maryland 29. Five other states except main product are listed. Th e Japanese word daizu / daidzu Vermont 89. Grand total 3,275 Japanese, including 3,108 means “soybean(s)”: Daidzu Hyohaku K.K. (Th e Soybean males (95% of total) and 167 females. bleaching Co., Nagoya), Hirano Daizu Kogyo K.K. (Hyogo- Tariff (import duty) reduction on soybeans, from the old ken), Torajiro Inoue (Kobe), Kwanto Totoku-fu (Kwantung rate of $0.45 per bushel to $0.13 per bushel in 1913 (p. 27). Government; South Manchurian Railway Co., Dairen and Tariff reduction on Manchurian soybeans, from the old rate Port Arthur; Soy beans and soy-bean oil), Saburo Oguri of $0.45 per bushel to no tax in 1913 (p. 28). (Aichi-ken), Okuda Shoten Sei-hi-jo (Fertilizer Manufactory, Th e Directory shows Japanese companies making Aichi-ken; Soy bean oil), Suginuma Shokwai (Chita-gun, soyfoods in California, Utah, Colorado, Oregon. Address: San Sichi-ken), Sadajiro Yoshiwara (Okawa-machi, Higashi-ku, Francisco, California. Osaka; Rape seed oil and bean oil). Note 1. the only other oil widely made in Japan seems to be rape seed oil. 241. Ogawa Ryokan. 1914. Ogawa Ryokan (Ad). In: Nichibei One association involved with soybeans is the Hokkaido Shinbun-sha. 1914. Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Nokwai (Hokkaido Agricultural Assoc.). It was established in Yearbook. No. 10]. p. 40 in last block of ads. [Eng; jap] 1900. Production of “beans” is as follows: Daifuku 11,880,000 • Summary: Ad (1/8 page). All in Japanese. Th ey sell fi sh and kin, Nagauzura 9,700,000 kin, Maru-uzura 5,790,000, Kintoki tofu express [probably meaning fresh or fast]. A ryokan is a [azuki] 2,050,000 kin, Otenashi-Kotenashi 4,000,000 kin (p. traditional Japanese inn. It is not clear whether they make the 241). tofu in-house or buy it from an outside tofu shop. Address: Note 2. Th is is the earliest English-language document 342 3rd St., San Bernardino, California. Phone: Sunset 627. seen (March 2006) that uses the word “Kintoki” to refer to a Home 1288. type of azuki bean. Page 245 lists the Jozo Shiken (Brewed Products 242. Polk’s Portland [Oregon] city directory. 1914. Portland, Experiment Station), Tokyo. Oregon: R.L. Polk & Co., Inc. See p. 1103. * Th e section titled “Sugar and Confectionery, Condiments • Summary: “Ota H baths 86½ 5th N.” and Relishes; Nuts and Fruit Foods” (p. 248-54) lists 103 Note: Th is is actually the Ota Tofu Co. See Nichi-Bei manufacturers of “Soy” and/or “Tamari.” Th ese two products Nenkan. Address: Portland, Oregon. comprise most of the listings. Th e ad section at the back has a full-page ad (p. 9) titled: 243. Oshû Nippô (Th e Oregon News) (Portland, “Th e standard of Japan shoyu: Soy sauce. Representing eight Oregon).1915. [New Years greeting (Ad)]. Jan. 1. p. 20. [1 ref] largest breweries at Choshi and Noda, Chiba-ken, the centre • Summary: A small square greeting / ad from the Ota Tofu of the industry in the empire. Th e annual output is estimated shop states: In Japanese (from right to left ): Kinga Shinnen, 1 at 40,000,000 gallons.” Brands with logos [name of owners gatsu Gantan. Kita Dai Go Gai. Oota Toofu-ya. Oota kyodai. in parentheses]: Yamaju (Jujiro Iwazaki), Kikkoman (Saheiji In English: “New Years greetings. Jan. 1. 86½ N. 5th Mogi), Minakami (Fusagoro Mogi), Kushigata (Shichizaemon [Portland, Oregon]. Ota brothers.” Mogi), Jojyu (Hyozaemon Takanashi), Yamasa (Gihei

Hamaguchi), Higeta (Choshi Shoyu Goshi Kaisha), and 134), 2 in Salinas, 1 in San Benito County, 2 in Guadalupe Kihaku (Shichiroemon Mogi). Th ese eight brands are a and 1 in Lompoc (both in Santa Barbara County, in southern guarantee of quality. Th ey dominate the Shoyu Market. Do California) (p. 135), 1 in Sonoma County and 3 in Vacaville not miss seeing the exhibits (Palace of Food Products). (p. 136), 3 in Sacramento and 3 in the Courtland, Walnut On the next page (p. 10) is an ad titled “Okayama-ken Grove, Isleton area (p. 137), 3 in the Loomis, Penryn, Shoyu (Soy Sauce)!!! Th e climate of Okayama-ken is best Newcastle, Auburn area (northeast of Sacramento), 1 in the suited for the brewing of Soy of an excellent quality. Th e Marysville, Colusa, Oroville, Chico, Red Bluff area, and 1 in quantity produced amounts to 250,000 koku [11,900,000 the Florin, Woodland area (p. 138), 2 in Stockton and 1 in gallons; there are 47.6 gallons/koku] a year. Soy is rich Lodi (p. 139), 1 in Fresno, 1 elsewhere in Fresno County (p. in nitrogenous nutriments and consequently is a table 140), 2 in Tulare County (p. 141), 4 in Los Angeles (p. 142), 1 sauce par excellence. Th e exhibitors of the Soy produced in Riverside (p. 143), 2 in Ventura County, and 1 in Imperial in Okayama-Ken are as follows: Keijiro Kondo (output County (in the far southeastern corner of California) (p. 144). 16,614 koku), Entaro Oka (3,399), Kurajiro Koyama (4,938), For all of these California tofu shops is given their capital, Kanaichi Shoyu Gomei Co. (4,500), Jotaro Takimoto (8,049), annual sales in dollars, and number of workers. For all of the Motomasu Ono (3,804), and Ihachiro Kuyama (2,859).” California tofu shops (total): Capital: $23,050. Sales in 1914: Address: Tokyo, Japan. $74,400. No. of workers: 65. Salaries in 1914: $8,260. Note that no miso makers are listed. 245. Nichibei Shinbun-sha (Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha). 1915. Th e total value of imports of shoyu [soy sauce] and Nichi-Bei nenkan [Japanese-American yearbook. No. 11]. pickles from Japan to the U.S. for the past 5 years is given (p. 650 Ellis St., San Francisco, California. 295 p. Reprinted in 86). Th e value of shoyu imported to San Francisco in 1914: Feb. 2002 in Tokyo by Nihon Tosho Senta. Series: Nikkei $133,870 (p. 102). Th e value of shoyu and pickles imported Imin Shiryôshû. Dai 5-kai [Collected Documents on Japanese to Portland, Oregon in 1913: $8,663. Th e value of soybeans Emigration. No. 5]. [Jap; eng] imported to Portland, Oregon in 1913: $2,593 (both p. 105). • Summary: Th is book is very diff erent from previous Th e total Japanese population in the USA in 1914: 99,321 (p. yearbooks in this series in that it has no directory (giving 171). business names, address, and sometimes phone numbers) Th e Census shows Japanese companies making soyfoods and almost no advertising. It also contains many fewer pages. in California, Utah, Idaho, New York City, Oregon, and It is not clear what caused these major changes. Washington state. Address: San Francisco, California. Like its predecessors, is read and numbered from “back to front” compared with typical English books; it is mostly 246. Polk’s Portland [Oregon] city directory. 1915. Portland, (99%) in Japanese. Th e English-language title page reads: Th e Oregon: R.L. Polk & Co., Inc. 1564 p. See p. 924. Japanese American Year Book. • Summary: “Ota Roy M student NP Coll Th e book is divided into seven parts, each numbered “Ota S baths 86½ 5th N.” separately. Contents: (1) Front matter (5 p.). (2) Table Note 1: On page 1362: “Mori B 266 Davis (listing found of contents (5 p.). (3) Ads (3 p.). (4) Photos (black and under heading of barber). Is there also an Ohta listed on p. white on 14 unnumbered pages). (5) Maps and charts on 1364? 2 unnumbered pages. (6) Front part (p. 1-176), including Note: Th is is actually the Ota Tofu Co. See Nichi-Bei names of Japanese people in agricultural enterprises in Nenkan. Address: Portland, Oregon. California, Utah, Idaho, Colorado, Nevada, Wyoming, New Mexico, Texas, Nevada, and Oregon–based on research 247. Product Name: Koji, Miso. conducted in Dec. 1914 (p. B1 to B-88). Note: Two ads appear Manufacturer’s Name: Fujimoto Koji, Miso Seizo-sho on the bottom half of the last page of the previous section. (7) (Fujimoto Koji & Miso Manufacturing Co.). Copyright and publishing information page. Manufacturer’s Address: 1014 Stockton St., San Francisco, By a careful reading of part 6, we can extract the following California. Phone: Kearny 2339. information about business that make soyfoods. Th ere are Date of Introduction: 1917. 45 tofu makers in California (p. 130), 1 in Ogden, Utah New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American (p. 153), 1 in other cities in Utah, 1 in Pocatello, Idaho (in Directory. 1919. p. 68. Also in 1920, p. 45 (½-page ad; all in Bannock County, the southeast corner of the state), and 1 in Japanese characters. Miso manufacturing department. Koji other cities in Idaho (p. 154), 1 in New York City (p. 161), 1 manufacturing department. And pickles manufacturing in Oregon (p. 165), and 6 in Washington state (p. 169). Th ere department. Rice, shoyu, soybeans, and other merchandise is also 1 shoyu maker in Oregon (probably in Portland) (p. sales department), and p. 57 (directory). Also in 1921, p. 58 165). Concerning the tofu makers in California, there are (½-page ad) and p. 64 (directory). Also in 1922, p. 30 (full- 2 in Oakland and 2 in Alameda (p. 132), 1 in Berkeley, 1 page ad) and p. 40 (directory). in San Mateo (p. 133), 2 in Santa Clara and 1 in Kason? (p. Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei Nippon-jin Kan (Directory

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 79 of Japanese in the USA). p. 41. A half-page display ad states: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1937. p. 8. Under the “Fujimoto Co., San Francisco, California. Kanemasa miso.” category “Importers of groceries:” Fujimoto Shokai, Fujimoto Note: A metal square used by traditional Japanese carpenters Co., 246 Front St., EXbrook 4776, 4777. But in the directory is called a kane-jaku. Th us a trademark with the same right- under “Food products manufacturers:” Fujimoto Miso Koji angle is pronounced “Kane.” Seizô-sho. And on p. 9 is a ½-page ad. Also in 1938. p. 6 Th e Japanese American Directory. 1924. p. 58. New and 8 (directory) and p. 7 (full-page ad). Also in 1939. p. 6 address: 328 Jackson St. Phone: Douglas 1216. Also in 1925, (full-page ad) and p. 7 (directory, under both importer and p. N-17. Also in 1926, p. N-22. manufacturer) San Francisco City Directory. 1925. First listing for Th e Japanese American Directory. 1940. p. 7. Under the Fujimoto Co. in this English-language directory (E.K. category “Food Products Manufacturers.” Fujimoto Miso, Fujimoto). Food products. 238 Jackson St. Phone: Douglas Koji Seizô-sho (Fujimoto Co.), 246 Front St., San Francisco. 1216. No mention that they make miso. Phone: EXbrook 1756. A full-page display ad on page 6 states Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. 18 (directory; that Fujimoto Company (Fujimoto Shokai) is an importer, new company name: Fujimoto Miso, Shoyu Seizô-sho, 238 manufacturer, and exporter. Th ey make Kanemasa Miso, Jackson St., San Francisco. Note: Th e company has apparently Koji, and Tsukemono (Japanese-style pickles). Th ey also sell started to make shoyu / soy sauce) and p. A-11 (full page ad; raw materials for making tofu (presumably whole soybeans Fujimoto Shokai, 238 Jackson St. Makes Kanemasa brand and one or more coagulants). Also in 1941 Directory (p. 6, 7, shoyu, miso, koji, and Japanese-style pickles {tsukemono}) and 28) as Fujimoto Shoten (Fujimoto Co.). and p. A-11 (ad; makes Kanemasa brand shoyu, miso, koji, and Japanese-style pickles {tsukemono}). Also in 1932 directory, p. 17, but the name has returned to Fujimoto Miso Koji Seizô-sho. Same address and phone (Douglas 1216).

Also in 1934, p. 20. Phone: EXbrook 1756; Ad (½ page. Chicago Shimpo, Inc. 1958. Chicago Japanese American Th e top 1/3 of this ad is in English. Fujimoto Company. 238 directory. Page 19: ¼ page ad for Fujimoto & Company, 302 Jackson St., San Francisco. Cable address: “Fujimoto” San South 4th West, Salt Lake City, Utah. Tel. EMpire 4-8279. Francisco. Importers Manufacturers Exporters. In Japanese: Illustrations show: (1) Th e company’s Kanemasa brand; Makers of Kanemasa brand miso, koji, Japanese-style pickles (2) A Japanese woman kneeling behind a porcelain mortar {tsukemono}, salmon pickled in saké lees {kasuzuke}. (suribachi), holding a wooden pestle (surikogi), and using Specialized U.S. seller of nigari. Direct import and export). it to grind miso until it is smooth. Th e woman has a unique Also in 1936, p. 34, but the address is now 246 Front St. head-covering called a hôkaburi, hôkamuri, or hokkamuri. San Francisco City Directory. 1930, same. Importers Th e top 25% of the ad is in English; the rest, which is in and exporters of food products, 238 Jackson. Tel. Douglas Japanese, states: Kanemasa (brand / logo) Edo Miso, Koji. 1216. Retail store 1640 Post. Tel. West 0733. Fujimoto, E.K. Sake-kasuzuke. Sujiko Kasazuke. Matsukaze-do, san-mi (Miyako). Fujimoto Co. residence 1640 Post. Yôkan (Mitsuaji? Yôkan). Yuta-shu, Enko-shi, Fujimoto

Shokai. In English: Kanemasa (brand / logo) Edo Miso, Koji. be: Japanese are hard-working people adding signifi cantly to Salmon pickled in saké lees. Salted salmon roe pickled in saké the production and value of the United States. lees. Matsukaze-do brand 3-fl avored Yôkan. Salt Lake City, Like its predecessors, it is read and numbered from “back Utah. Fujimoto Shôkai. to front” compared with typical English books; it is mostly Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 11. (99%) in Japanese. Th e English-language title page reads: Th e Same ¼-page ad as in 1958 Chicago Shimpo. Japanese American Year Book. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. Contents: Front matter (6 p.). Preface, correction 234. Th e earliest known miso company in the continental notice, and full-page ad for Pacifi c Trading Co. (soy is not USA was founded by Mr. Genpei Fujimoto, and began mentioned) (2 p.). Photos (black and white on 6 unnumbered operation in 1917. In 1942 it was the largest miso company in pages). Maps and charts on 2 unnumbered pages: Total the continental USA. During World War II, in about 1943- value of agricultural products by Japanese farmers in the 44, because of the Japanese evacuation, it was shut down and USA in 1917: (1) Pie chart of value ($) of principal crops moved to 302 South Fourth West, Salt Lake City, Utah. It produced. Th e top 5 are vegetables, beans, grapes, sugar was reestablished in Salt Lake City aft er the war by the son beets, and potatoes. (2) Bar chart of percentage of principal of the founder, Edward Kanta Fujimoto, and his wife, Shizue. crops produced by Japanese, showing their adaptability for Note: Th e source of this information was probably Edward intensive cultivation (average 1915-1917). Japanese produce Fujimoto or his wife, who told it to Shurtleff in a phone 90% of all celery, 88% of berries, 86% of asparagus, 85% of interview in 1983. Although we have documents showing cantaloupes, 83% of onions, 80% of tomatoes, 72% of fl orists’ that Fujimoto started before 1919, we will accept the date products, 53% of seeds, etc. Bar chart showing the increase 1917 until further evidence is available. in land value under the cultivation of Japanese in 12 places of See separate record for Fujimoto in Salt Lake City. California. For each place, a white bar shows land value per acre before 1913 and a black bar shows land value per acre in 248. Product Name: Shoyu. 1918. Th ese places include: Imperial Valley (melon ranch). Manufacturer’s Name: Kawasoyi (M.). Colusa (rice fi eld). Sonoma (vineyard & orchard), etc. On Manufacturer’s Address: Waipahu, Oahu, Hawaii. average, the land has increased in value from 4.5-fold to 6.7 Date of Introduction: 1917. fold. New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and Table of contents (2 p.). Map showing yearly amount of the Territory of Hawaii. 1917. p. 447. “Kawasoyi, M., soy, rainfall in California (1 p.). Waipahu.” Not listed in 1915. Nichibei Nenkan No. 12–Industrial edition (p. 1-). Japanese agricultural conditions (p. 1-20, with ads on p. 249. Product Name: Shoyu. 16-17). Various other Japanese industries (p. 21-28). Ads Manufacturer’s Name: Takahashi (G.). (p. 29-36). Education (p. 37-64). Ads (p. 65-80). Agriculture Manufacturer’s Address: Waialua, Oahu, Hawaii. (part 1 of 3; p. 81-209, with ads p. 204-209). How to run an Date of Introduction: 1917. agricultural business (part 2 of 3, p. 210-340, with ads p. New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and 297-300, 341-348). Agricultural production industry (part 3 the Territory of Hawaii. 1917. p. 770. “Takahashi, G., soy, of 3, p. 349-389). Industries: Fishery (p. 389-419). Forestry Waialua” [Oahu, Hawaiian Islands]. Not listed in 1915. (p. 420-24). Mining (p. 425-28). Manufacturing (p. 429-31). Ad (Hinoe / Th e Hinoy, p. 432). Copyright and publishing 250. Nichibei Shinbun-sha (Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha). information page. 1918. Nichi-Bei nenkan [Japanese-American yearbook. Summary: Tofu makers (tofu-ya): In 1908 there were 20 No. 12]. 650 Ellis St., San Francisco, California. [20] + tofu makers. Th is number increased to 50 in 45 locations in 432 p. Reprinted in Feb. 2002 in Tokyo by Nihon Tosho 1917 (p. 25). Miso makers (miso seizô-sho): Since 1908 there Senta. Series: Nikkei Imin Shiryôshû. Dai 5-kai [Collected have been 12 miso makers that opened; some have closed. In Documents on Japanese Emigration. No. 5]. [Jap; eng] 1917 the number increased to 6 due to the ban on importing • Summary: Th is book is somewhat similar to the 1915 Japanese miso. Among the oldest and most established in Los yearbook but very diff erent from previous yearbooks in this Angeles: Miso Seizô-sho. Th eir capital investment is $12,000. series in that it has no directory (giving business names, Th ey use 180,000 kin of soybeans (1 kin = 1.323 lb = 600 address, and sometimes phone numbers). It has more pages gm) and 240,000 kin of rice. Sales are $36,000/year. Number of advertisements than the 1915 edition but fewer than of workers: 4 (p. 28). Th e only soy-related ad in this volume previous editions. Moreover the structure and contents are is for “L.A. Miso Mfg. Co., 605-7-9-N. Alameda St., Los very diff erent. For the fi rst time, the pages are numbered Angeles, California.” Trade mark: Shows 3 horizontal lines sequentially throughout the book–except for the fi rst 20 in a circle, probably pronounced “marumi”–which means pages which are unnumbered. Again, it is not clear what “fl avor” in Japanese. In Japanese is written (in big, bold caused these major changes. But the main message seems to characters). Rafu Shiromiso Seizô-sho.

Th e Directory shows Japanese companies making the Japanese American Directory is 1925, p. N-142. soyfoods in California and other states. Address: San Note 3. No address in San Francisco is given in the ad. Francisco, California. Note 4. World War I ended not long ago. Address: San Francisco, California. 251. Daizu Seisan Gaisha (Soybean Food Products Co.). 1919. Save food. Dealers in soybeans and soybean products 252. Product Name: Kikko San-jirushi Sweet White Miso, (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1919. Japanese-American Shoyu, and White Koji. Directory (Nichibei Jushoroku). Page 40 near front. [Jap; eng] Manufacturer’s Name: Hokubei Miso, Shoyu Seizo Oroshi • Summary: Ad (full-page). Th e top half of this ad is in Kouri (North American Mfg. Co.). English, with large, bold letters. Th e company, which has a Manufacturer’s Address: 519 East 1st St., Los Angeles, factory in Petaluma, lists the following products in Japanese California. Phone: 64215. characters (kanji): Daizu shushi [Soybean seeds]. Shoyu-yo Date of Introduction: 1919. January. daizu [Soybeans for use in making shoyu / soy sauce]. Jozo- New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American yo daizu [Soybeans for use in making fermented products; Directory. 1919. p. 368. Ad (¼ page). At the top of the ad miso and perhaps natto seem to be implied]. Tofu-yo daizu in English: “North American Mfg. Company, 519 E. 1st St., [Soybeans for use in making tofu]. Tofu-ko [Tofu powder]. Los Angeles, Cal.” Most of the ad is in Japanese. Th e three Note: It is not clear what “Tofu-ko” is / means. Seisei nigari words at the end of the company’s Japanese name mean [Refi ned nigari (probably magnesium chloride)]. Mamekasu “Manufacturing, Wholesale, and Retail.” Th e large, central [Soybean presscake, probably left over from making soybean logo, a hexagon with three horizontal lines inside, is probably oil]. pronounced “Kikko San-jirushi.” Th e company makes high- Th e following product names are written in Japanese class sweet white miso (joto shiro miso) and white koji (shiro katakana characters: Soybean oil, soybean fl our, soybean koji) [as well as shoyu]. Th e owners are NISHI Isokichi and table sauce. soybean butter, soybean cheese, soybean candy, YAMASHITA Iwasuke.. soybean feed. In the center of the ad is the company’s smaller logo, with all the text in English: Sun Brand Soy. Registered U.S. Patent Offi ce. Above the huge “Save Food” logo near the top of the is an American fl ag in a circle surrounded by ears of wheat. Just above that, across the very top of the ad we read: “With patronization of U.S. Food Administration.” Note 1. Letter (e-mail) from John Benanti, Researcher, Petaluma Museum research library collection. 2009. April 16. “Th e 1917 Petaluma City Directory does not mention the Soybean Production Co. Th e next city directory we have is 1939 and it is not mentioned there either. “However, we have a number of Sonoma County Telephone Directories where the company is mentioned. A listing for “Soy Bean Company, Wilson” is fi rst found in the April, 1923 directory. Th e same listing then appears in the April, 1924, May, 1926, May, 1927, November, 1927, and May, 1928 directories. Th ere is no listing in any directory aft er that date. “I also looked in three Sonoma County histories, 1911, 1926, and 1937. Th ere is no mention of the company or soybean production in any of them. “Th e 1919 Sanborn fi re insurance map for Petaluma (p. 22) shows the Soy Bean Co. mill at a time it was located on Weller St., a few blocks from Wilson. I have gone over the 1923 Sanborn map and do not fi nd the mill anywhere on it. I can not explain why it is not there when the directory says it was on Wilson Street in 1923.” Note 2: Th is company, which existed from at least 1919 to 1928, is the earliest known company with a name and address that cultivated soybeans in California. Its only other entry in

Th e Japanese American Directory. 1920. p. 277. Ad (¼ New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American page). Th is is as basically the same as the one which appeared Directory. 1919. p. 447. Note: In 1913 Jackson Tofu-ya last in 1919, except it looks very diff erent because the large logo made at 522 Jackson St. in Seattle. It is unclear if there is any has changed. Th e outside is still a hexagon (although smaller relationship between these two companies. and bolder) but inside it is the number “3” but having an unusual form that makes it look like a cross between the 255. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. usual Arabic numeral “3” and a Tibetan character. Apparently 1919/01. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American the previous logo either belonged to another company or directory. No 15]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese looked too Japanese. American News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Jan. 1. Index of Th e Japanese American Directory. 1920. p. 296. Hokubei cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] Miso, Shoyu Seizô-sho, 519 East 1st St., Los Angeles. Phone: • Summary: Soyinfo Center has only the pages mentioning 64215. Also in 1921, p. 288 (ad) and p. 314 (directory). Th e soyfoods in the following cities in California: San Francisco, directory gives the company name as Hokubei Miso Seizô- San Jose, Sacramento, Los Angeles. Plus Portland (Oregon), sho. Also in 1922, p. 315 (directory) and ad (¼-page, p. 321). and Seattle (Washington). See individual directory entries At the top of the ad is written in English: “N.A. Miso Mfg. and advertisements. Th is directory was published on 1 Jan. Co., 519 E. First St., Los Angeles, California.” In Japanese, the 1919 by Nichibei Shinbunsha. For each of the directory company’s name has changed to Hokubei Miso, Koji Seizô entries, the company name is written in Japanese characters; Moto Oroshiuri [Manufacturing and wholesale]. Th e word the street address and phone number are written in English. “Shoyu” no longer appears in the company name or in the ad, Within each city, businesses of the same type are grouped as it did in 1919-21. Also in 1923, p. 347 (ad; In Japanese, the together under a Japanese heading. In this volume the makers company’s name has changed to Hokubei Miso, Koji Seizô, of soyfoods in San Francisco are all on pages 67-68 under Tsukemono Seizô Oroshiuri. Tsukemono are Japanese-style the heading Shokuryo-hin Siezo-sho (Food manufacturing pickles) and p. 355 (directory: Hokubei Miso Seizô-sho). companies). Address: San Francisco, California. Also in 1924, p. 371 (¼-page ad) and p. 394 (directory). Also in 1925, p. S-17 (½-page horizontal ad. New name in English: 256. Product Name: Tofu. “North American Miso M’f’g. Co.” New phone number: Manufacturer’s Name: Kamiya Tofu-ya. TUcker 4215) and p. S-44 (directory). Also in 1926, p. S-15 Manufacturer’s Address: 414 L & M Alley, Sacramento, (Full-page ad. Name in English is now “North American California. Phone: Main 4618R. Miso Mfg. Co.” An illustration shows a large box of dried Date of Introduction: 1919. January. koji (hoshi koji) near top center of ad) and p. S-33 (directory; New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Hokubei Miso Seizô-sho). Directory. 1919. p. 246. Also in 1920, p. 158. Th e phone Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. S-53. Th e number is now 4618W. Also in 1921, p. 169. company (Hokubei Miso Seizô-sho) now makes only miso. Phone: TUcker 4215. Also in 1932, p. 346 (directory; this 257. Product Name: Tofu. old company has a new name: Kikko San Miso Seizô-sho. Manufacturer’s Name: Koyama Tofu-ya. Th e address, although unchanged, is now written in English: Manufacturer’s Address: 74 Japanese Alley, Sacramento, “519 E. First St.” New phone: VAndike 5702). Also in 1934, California. Phone: Main 2162J. p. 305 (directory; same company name, address and phone Date of Introduction: 1919. January. number). New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1919. p. 246. 253. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Itano Tofu-ya. 258. Product Name: Miso. Manufacturer’s Address: 1509½ Geary St., San Francisco, Manufacturer’s Name: Maruman Miso Seizo-sho [Maru California. Phone: West 8293. Man]. Date of Introduction: 1919. January. Manufacturer’s Address: 1531 Geary St., San Francisco, New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American California. Directory. 1919. p. 67. Note that two earlier companies made Date of Introduction: 1919. January. tofu at this same address starting in 1911, and 1913. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1919. p. 68. No phone listing. Also in 1920, p. 57. 254. Product Name: Tofu. Also in 1921, p. 64. Manufacturer’s Name: Jackson Tofu-ya (Jackson Tofu Shop). Manufacturer’s Address: 308½ 6th S. Alley, Seattle, 259. Product Name: Miso. Washington. Phone: Main 1403. Manufacturer’s Name: Mihara Miso Seizo-sho. Date of Introduction: 1919. January. Manufacturer’s Address: 1415 Laguna St., San Francisco,

California. Phone: West 5058. Date of Introduction: 1919. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1919. p. 68. Also in 1920, p. 57. Also in 1921, p. 64. But the phone number has changed to Fillmore 2719. Also in 1922, p. 40, but the address has changed to 1417 Laguna St. from 1415. Also in 1923, p. 60. Also in 1924, p. 59. Also in 1925, p. N-17. Also in 1926, p. N-22. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. 18. Mihara Miso Seizô-sho, 1417 Laguna St., San Francisco, California. Phone: FIllmore 2719. Also in 1932, p. 3. Also in 1934, p. 20. Also in 1936, p. 34. Also in 1937, p. 8. Also in 1938, p. 8.

260. Product Name: Miso. Manufacturer’s Name: Nagatomi Miso Seizo-sho. Manufacturer’s Address: 1532 Post St., San Francisco, California. Phone: West 3286. Date of Introduction: 1919. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American of company with diacritics is: Sacramento Shoyu Jôzô Gaisha. Directory. 1919. p. 68. Also in 1920, p. 57. But address is now Th e Japanese American Directory. 1920. p. 154. Company 1534 Post. St. name: Sacramento [in Chinese characters] Shoyu Seizô-sho [Sacramento Soy Sauce Manufacturing Co.]. Address is now: 261. Product Name: Tofu. 2116 Fourth St., Sacramento. Manufacturer’s Name: Okamoto Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 216 L St., Sacramento, California. 264. Product Name: Miso, Koji. Phone: Main 2543J. Manufacturer’s Name: Sanyo Shokai [Sanyo Co.]. Date of Introduction: 1919. January. Manufacturer’s Address: 69 N. 5th St., Portland, Oregon. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1919. January. Directory. 1919. p. 246. A company named Okamoto Tofu- New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/8 page) in Th e ya made tofu in Sacramento in 1911 at 87 Jap Alley–then Japanese American Directory. 1919. p. 230. Sanyo Shokai, 539 disappeared. It is unclear whether there is any relationship Delay St., Portland, Oregon. Phone: 1397 (written in Japanese between these two companies. characters). Th ey make and sell shoyu, miso, and koji (issai seizô hanbai) plus various other non-soyfoods. 262. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Ooe (Ohye) Tofu-ya. 265. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 1613 Buchanan St., San Francisco, Manufacturer’s Name: Tomoe Tofu-ya (Tomoe Tofu Shop). California. Phone: West 2157. Renamed Tomoe Tofu-ten in 1923. Renamed Tomoe Tofu Date of Introduction: 1919. January. Seizo-sho (Tomoye Tofu Mfg. Co.) in 1940. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Address: 324 Jackson St., Los Angeles, Directory. 1919. p. 67. Note that in 1914 this company was California. Phone: 11682. making tofu at 1621 Buchanan St. in San Francisco. Date of Introduction: 1919. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American 263. Product Name: Marufuku Shoyu [Soy Sauce]. Directory. 1919. p. 293. Also in 1920, p. 296. Ad (1/8 page) Manufacturer’s Name: Sacramento Shoyu Jozo Gaisha is all in Japanese. At the top center is a 3-part (tripartite) t’ai (Sacramento Sauce Brewing Co.]. chi (pinyin: taiji) or yin yang symbol–white on mostly black. Manufacturer’s Address: 2116-20 Fourth St., Sacramento, Th e address is now given [in error] as 224 Jackson St., Los California. Phone: Main 2867J. Angeles. Same phone. Making and selling Tomoe Nigari. Date of Introduction: 1919. January. Also in 1920 directory, p. 304. Tomoe Tofu-ya, 324 New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Jackson St., Tel. 11682. Also in 1921, p. 314 (same ad as Directory. 1919. p. 377. Ad (½ page). At the top is written in 1920, incl. nigari) and p. 326 (directory). Also in 1922, in English: “Sacramento Sauce Brewing Co., 2116-20 4th p. 329 (directory and ad). Also in 1923, p. 357 (directory; St., Sacramento, Cal.” But most of the ad is in Japanese, with the company name is now written in Chinese characters a huge, bold, circular Marufuku logo in the center. Saijo (kanji) instead of katakana, and the name has changed to Marufuku shoyu (Highest- quality Marufuku shoyu). Name Tomoe Tofu-ten from Tomoe Tofu-ya). Also in 1924, p. 395

(directory and 1/8 page ad; possibly Maruta) brand miso and koji. Address in Japanese: they also make and sell Tomoe- 2436 Cahuenga, Hollywood, Los Angeles. Address in English: brand Nigari). 1436 Cahuenga. Sanitary, economical, and tasty. Th e world’s Also in 1925, p. S-46 best. Wada miso. Note: Subsequent ads show that 1436 is the (directory; new phone number: correct street number. VAndike 5676) and p. S-50 (1/8 page ad; Tomoe Tofu-ya, 224 267. Product Name: Tofu. Jackson St. Phone: VAndyke Manufacturer’s Name: Inoue Tofu-ya. Renamed Inoue 5676. Making and selling Higuma [Sun-Bear] Tofu-ya in 1923. Renamed Higuma Tomoe tofu and nigari). Also in Tofu-ya in 1925. 1926, p. S-36 (directory) and p. Manufacturer’s Address: 602 North 6th Street, San Jose, S-71 (1/8-page ad, bottom right. California. Phone: San Jose 3657. New address–given only here– Date of Introduction: 1919. January. is 126 Rose St.). New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Th e Japanese American Directory. 1919. p. 110. Also in 1920, p. 119. Also in 1921, Directory. 1930. p. S-53 p. 130. Also in 1922, p. 119. Th e phone number is now (directory. Tomoe Tofu Seizô- San Jose 3705-J. Also in 1923, p. 138. Company renamed sho, 126 Rose St., Los Angeles, Inoue Higuma [Sun-Bear] Tofu-ya. Also in 1925, p. N-113. California. Phone: VAndike Renamed Higuma Tofu-ya. 5676). and p. S-66 (1/8 page Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei Nippon-jin Kan (Directory ad). Also in 1932, p. 346 of Japanese in the USA). p. 207. Th e phone number is San (directory; Address: 126 Rose Jose 3075-J. St.) and p. 346 (1/8 page ad; 126 Rose St. Makes and sells 268. Product Name: Shoyu. Tomoe brand nigari). Also in Manufacturer’s Name: Hilo Bussan Shokai. 1934, p. 305. Also in 1936, p. Manufacturer’s Address: Hilo, Island of Hawaii. 356 (directory) and p. 356 (1/8- Date of Introduction: 1919. page, simpler than previous New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and ads, and without Asian logo. the Territory of Hawaii. 1919. p. 924. “Hilo Bussai Shokai, M. Nigari is not mentioned). Also Ohara, manager, manufacturer and wholesale dealer in soy, in 1937, p. 320 (directory) and app. 706, Kilauea ave., Hilo. Tel. 143, P.O. Box 174.” Not listed p. 320 (1/12 page ad). Also in 1938, p. 348 (directory). Also in in 1918. 1939, p. 340 (directory). Also in 1940. p. 326-27. Listed in the Note: On p. 1001 of the 1919 directory, M. Oara is listed category “Foodstuff Factory.” Named changed to: Tomoe Tofu as residing in Wailuku [Drive], Hilo. Seizô-sho (Tomoye Tofu Mfg. Co.), 126 Rose St., Los Angeles, California. Phone: VAndike 5676. Also in 1941, p. 328. 269. Product Name: Miso. Los Angeles City Directory. 1942 (the last one published). Manufacturer’s Name: Honolulu Miso Factory. Called Tomoye Co. Food products. 126 Rose, Los Angeles. No Hamamura Kojiba in 1935. mention of tofu. No listing for Tomoye or Tomoe as company Manufacturer’s Address: 1134 Peterson Lane, Honolulu, or person in 1942. Oahu, Hawaii. Interview with Shoan Yamauchi in Lafayette. 1982. Aug. Date of Introduction: 1919. 11. He thinks the company was founded just aft er World War New Product–Documentation: Polk-Husted Co.’s Directory II [sic, it was founded in 1919 at 324 Jackson St.], at First and of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1919. p. 360, 1285, San Pedro Streets. It was bought out by Matsuda Tofu Co. in 288. “Honolulu Miso Factory, S. Fujikawa, proprietor, 1134 1946 for $8,000. Peterson Lane.” Mr. Fujikawa (p. 288) apparently lives at this address. Th e year 1919 is the fi rst year that a business 266. Product Name: Miso, Koji. category listing for “Miso Manufacturers” appears in this city Manufacturer’s Name: Wada Miso, Koji Seizo-sho (Wada directory (p. 1285), and this company is the fi rst listed miso Miso & Koji Mfg. Co.). company in Hawaii. Th e 1920 directory lists K. Enomoto as Manufacturer’s Address: 1436 Cahuenga Ave., Los Angeles, the proprietor. Th e phone is now 89064. Mr. Enomoto (p. California. Phone: 579136. 277) also apparently lives at the plant. 1924 Directory. p. 208. Date of Introduction: 1919. January. Kiyoichi Hamamura (Honolulu Miso Factory). Residence, New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American 1607a Pohaku. 1928-29 Directory. p. 205. Kojiba Hamamura Directory. 1919. p. 368. Ad (1/8 page), lower right. Wada (or (Kyoichi Hamamura), Miso Manufacturers, 1134 Peterson

Lane, Tel. 8001. Note that the company name now appears as K. Hamamura rather than Honolulu Miso Factory.

270. Product Name: Sweet White Miso (Shiro Miso), and Koji (by 1922). Manufacturer’s Name: Norio Co. Renamed Norio Koji, Miso Seizo-sho by 1922. Renamed Norio Co. by 1941. Manufacturer’s Address: 1531 Geary St., San Francisco, California. Phone: Fillmore 4368. Date of Introduction: 1919. New Product– Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1922. p. 40 (directory; Norio Koji, Miso Seizô-sho, 1531 Geary St. Phone: Fillmore 4368) and p. 41 (1/8-page ad, lower left . Norio Shokai, 1531 Geary St. Same phone. Making shiro miso (sweet white miso), koji, characters). Also in 1932, p. 17 (directory). Also in 1934, p. and Sakura Miso {probably 20. Also in 1936, p. 34 (directory; the company name is still a red rice miso}. Logo: Th e Norio Koji, Miso Seizô-sho. But the address is now 1532 Post character for 10,000 in a St. Th e phone is still Fillmore 4368). Also in 1937, p. 8 Also in circle, probably pronounced 1938, p. 8. Also in 1939, p. 7. Also in 1940, p. 7. “Maruman”). Note: In 1921 Maruman Miso was at this Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 7. Listed in address and phone number. Note: In the San Francisco City Directories (all English), 1917-1930, there is no listing for Norio Co. or anything like it except a 1930 listing for Norio Sadaichi rice dealers. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1923. p. 60 (directory). Also in 1924, p. 58 (directory). Also in 1925, p. N-17 (directory) and p. N-17 (¼-page ad; at the top part of this ad is written in English: “Norio & Co., 1531 Geary St., San Francisco, Calif.” About half of the ad is in Japanese characters: Norio Koji, Miso Seizô-sho, 1531 Geary St., Phone: Fillmore 4368. Maker, wholesaler, and retailer of koji, shiro miso, and Sakura Miso. Illustrations show a box of the company’s koji, and one keg of miso stacked atop two others, side by side). Also in 1926, p. N-22 (directory). Also in 1930, p. 15 (1/3-page ad, very similar to that in 1925 but larger. Address: 1531 Geary St., San Francisco. Phone: FIllmore 4368. Th ey make koji, sweet white miso (shiro miso), sakura? miso. Manufacturing, wholesaling, and retailing. Illustrations show: A box of dried koji {hoshi- koji; high quality}. Th ree tubs of miso) and p. 18 (directory; gives the company name as Norio Koji, Miso Seizô-sho, in

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 88 the category “Food Products Manufacturers.” Norio Koji Post street [probably Kanedai Koji Miso Co. at 1534 Post St.] Miso Seizô-sho (Norio Co.), 1532 Post St., San Francisco, and merged the two companies. California. Phone: FIllmore 4368. Also listed in the 1942 Directory. Norio Shoten (Norio Co.), 1534 Post St. Phone: 271. Product Name: Tofu. FIllmore 5368. Manufacturer’s Name: Emu-gai Tofu-ya [M Street Tofu Ad (¼ page) in Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Evacuation- Shop]. Resettlement Report. Directory of manufacturers, p. 145 Manufacturer’s Address: 315 M St., Sacramento, California. (top right). “Norio Company. 1532-4 Post St., San Francisco, Phone: Main 1725 W. Calif. Phone: WEst 1-8672. Th ey make Maruman brand Date of Introduction: 1920. January. miso and koji. Entry in Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Evacuation- New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Resettlement Report. Directory, p. 5 (top left ). In Japanese: Directory. 1920. p. 158. Norio Miso Seizôsho. In English: Norio Co., 1532-4 Post St., San Francisco, California. Phone: WE. 1-8672. 272. Product Name: Tofu. Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 9. Ad (½ page, Manufacturer’s Name: Hayashi Tofu-ya. vertical). Top 1/3 of the ad is in English. “Norio Company, Manufacturer’s Address: 1509½ Geary St., San Francisco, 1532-34 Polk St., San Francisco 9, Calif. Tel. WEst 1-8672. California. Phone: West 8293. Soy bean products.” Below that is the large “Maruman” logo. Date of Introduction: 1920. January. In Japanese: Maker and wholesaler of Maruman brand miso New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American and koji. Also sells soybeans and nigari. Directory entry, Directory. 1920. p. 57. Note: In 1919 Itano Tofu-ya made under “Food Products: Wholesalers” (p. 37), and under tofu at this address. In 1911 a Hayashi Tofu-ya was at 1621 “Food Products” (p. 38). Norio Miso Tofu Seizô-sho (Norio Buchanan St. in San Francisco. Co.), 1534 Post St., WE 1-8672. Note that they now make tofu! 273. Product Name: Tofu. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Manufacturer’s Name: Hinode Tofu-ya. Directory]. 1952, p. 16. Under “Food Products; Grocers- Manufacturer’s Address: 339 7th St., Oakland, California. Whsle.” In Japanese: Norio Miso Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: Phone: OAkland 6613. Norio Co., 1532 Post St., San Francisco. Phone: WE 1-8672. Date of Introduction: 1920. January. Ad (¼ page), p. 21. Top 1/3 of ad is in English. Norio New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Company, 1532-34 Post St., San Francisco. Phone: WEst Directory. 1920. p. 88. Also in 1924, p. 99. Also in 1925, p, 1-8672. In Japanese: Maruman brand. Miso koji seizô N-67. Also in 1926, p. N-67. [manufacturing]. Note: Do they make both tofu and koji? Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. 67. Hinode Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 11. Tofu-ya, 339 7th St., Oakland, California. Also in 1932. Th e Half-page vertical ad. Address has expanded to 1532-34 phone number is now GLencourt 7297. Also in 1934, p. 68; Post St., San Francisco 9, Calif. Phone: 931-8672. “Soy bean Ad (1/8 page), p. 72. All in Japanese. Original tofu maker. products” (in English). Th eir large logo is still Maruman, Tofu, aburaage, ito-konnyaku, and goldfi sh. Also in 1936, p. with the character Man (meaning ten thousand) inside a 86. Also in 1937, p. 59. Also in 1938, p. 64. Also in 1939, p. bold circle. Th e bottom half of the ad (in Japanese) states that 62. they make and sell (wholesale) Maruman brand miso and Th e Japanese American Directory. 1940. p. 60. Hinode koji. Th ey also sell tofu and agé. Directory entry, p. 37 under Tofu Seizô-sho (Hinode Co.), 339 7th St., Oakland, “Food Products.” Norio miso tofu seizô-sho [Norio, maker of California. Phone: GLencourt 7297. Listed in the category miso and tofu]. “Food Products.” Note: See 1913 entry for this company at a B.W. 1971. East West Journal. 1(14):6. Arikawa. 1982, diff erent address in Oakland. Also in 1941, p. 60. personal communication; Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 234. Th e second earliest know miso 274. Product Name: Hishinaka-jirushi Miso, Koji. company in the continental USA was started in 1919 by Mr. Manufacturer’s Name: Nakamura Miso Seizo-sho Masaichi Norio. He made only shiro miso and exported most (Nakamura Miso Mfg. Co.). of it to Hawaii (Based on two interviews with Mr. Arikawa, Manufacturer’s Address: 306 North Ave. 22, Los Angeles, former owner of the Norio Co.; He still lives in San Francisco. California. Phone: 31422. Phone: 415-387-7217). Note: Even though the company may Date of Introduction: 1920. January. have “started” in 1919, it was not listed in any directory seen New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American until 1922. Directory. 1920. p. 295. Ad (1/8) page in lower left . Th e Talk with Mr. Arikawa. 1989. Dec. 6. Th e company started company name and address are written in English near on Geary St., then moved to 1532 Post St. before 1930. Th e the top of the ad. But about 85% of the ad is in Japanese. owner bought the company of a competitor at that address on Hishinaka-jirushi brand miso and dried koji for easy long

distance shipping. Ave. Also in 1936, p. 374 (directory). Also in 1937, p. 320. Also in 1920, p. 296. Also in 1938, p. 348. Also in 1939, p. 327. Th e company name Directory entry gives is given. But surprisingly, no address or phone number are same information as given. above. Also in 1921, p. 314 Th e Japanese American Directory. 1940. p. 326-27. (directory and 1/8 page Listed in the category “Foodstuff Factory.” Unlike all other ad). Also in 1922, p. 315 companies in this category, no street address or phone (directory) and p. 329 (1/8 number is given. Also in 1941, p. 328; again no street address page ad). or phone number is given. Nakamura Miso Seizô-sho Also in 1923, p. 347 (ad) (Nakamura Miso Mfg.). and p. 355 (directory). Also in 1924, p. 394 275. Okazaki Co. (Okazaki Shokai). 1920. General importer (directory; new phone and exporter (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1920. Japanese- number: Capital 1971) American Directory (Nichibei Jushoroku). Page 57. [Jap; eng] and p. 394 (¼-page ad). • Summary: Ad (¼ page). Th e top 1/5 of this ad is in English. Also in 1925, p. S-44 Th e company specializes in selling rice, miso, shoyu, tea, (directory) and p, S-49 canned goods, etc. Address: 545 Grant St., San Francisco, (1/8 page Ad). Also in California. Phone: Douglas 1656. 1926, p. S-35 (directory) and p. S-71 (1/8-page ad). 276. Product Name: Tofu. Ad (1/8 page) in Th e Manufacturer’s Name: Sakumura Tofu-ya. Japanese American Manufacturer’s Address: 74 Japanese Alley, Sacramento, Directory. 1930. p. S-30. California. Phone: Main 2162-J. Th e address is still 306 Date of Introduction: 1920. January. North Ave. 22, Los New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Angeles, California. Directory. 1920. p. 158. Note: Koyama Tofu-ya was making Phone: CApitol 1971. tofu at this address in 1919. Owner: Mr. Kentaro 277. Product Name: Tofu. Nakamura. You don’t Manufacturer’s Name: Takasugi Tofu-ya. need moto! (Moto wa Manufacturer’s Address: 1613 Buchanan St., San Francisco, irazu). (Note: “Moto” California. Phone: West 2157. is the “mash” made Date of Introduction: 1920. January. from rice koji that is New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American used to make saké. Directory. 1920. p. 57. Also in 1921, p. 64 (But the name has If you have koji, you changed to Takasugi Tofu-ten). Also in 1922, p. 40. Also in can make your own 1923, p. 60. Also in 1924, p. 59. moto, from which you Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei Nippon-jin Kan (Directory can make sake). Miso, of Japanese in the USA). p. 51. Th e company name is koji, Japanese-style given as Takasugi Tofu Seizô-sho (Takasugi Tofu Mfg. pickles (tsukemono). Co.; same address and phone) is listed under the category Manufacturer and “Miscellaneous foodstuff s (Zatsu shokuryo-hin).” wholesaler (Seizô oroshi-sho). Th e 278. Product Name: Tofu. directory entry (p. S-53) Manufacturer’s Name: Tanabe Tofu-ya (Tanabe Tofu Shop). contains the same name, Manufacturer’s Address: 842 Japanese Alley, Fresno, address, and phone California. Phone: 2615J. number. Date of Introduction: 1920. January. Also in 1932. p. 346 New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American (directory; new phone: Directory. 1920. p. 225. Note: A company with this same CApital 3949). Also in name started in 1909 at 830 F St., in Fresno. Th eir last listing 1934, p. 305. Address in Fresno was in 1914, when their address was 847 Japanese is now written (in Alley. Th en they disappeared for 6 years or more. Th e English): 306 N. 22nd relationship between these two companies is not clear.

Note 1. In 1900, 279. Product Name: Tomoe Nigari. the area named Manufacturer’s Name: Tomoe Tofu-ya (Tomoe Tofu Shop). Hollywood Renamed Tomoe Tofu-ten in 1923. today was called Manufacturer’s Address: 324 Jackson St., Los Angeles, “Cahuenga.” California. Phone: 11682. Note 2. In 1903 Date of Introduction: 1920. January. Hollywood was New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American incorporated as Directory. 1920. p. 296. Ad (1/8 page) is all in Japanese. At a municipality. the top center is the company logo, a 3-part (tripartite) t’ai Also in 1924, p. chi (pinyin: taiji) or yin yang symbol–white on mostly black. 394 (directory. Th e address is now given [in error] as 224 Jackson St., Los New phone Angeles. Phone: 11682. Making and selling Tomoe Nigari. number in Also in 1920 directory, p. 304. Tomoe Tofu-ya, 324 Jackson Hollywood: St., Tel. 11682. Also in 1922, p. 329 (directory and ad). Also 433666). in 1924, p. 395. Also in Also in 1925, p. S-46 (directory; new phone number: 1925, p. S-44 VAndike 5676) and p. S-50 (1/8 page ad; Tomoe Tofu-ya, 224 (directory, New Jackson St. Phone: VAndyke 5676. Making and selling Tomoe phone number: tofu and nigari). HEmpstead Also in 1932, p. 346 (directory; Address: 126 Rose St.) 3666) and p. and p. 346 (1/8 page ad; 126 Rose St. Makes and sells Tomoe S-110 (directory, brand nigari). Note: In an ad in the 1936 directory, nigari is Yamaizumi Miso not mentioned.

280. Product Name: Koji. Manufacturer’s Name: Watanabe Koji Seizo-sho [Watanabe Koji Manufacturing Co.]. Manufacturer’s Address: 427½ North St., Sacramento, California. Phone: Main 2933J. Date of Introduction: 1920. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1920. p. 154.

281. Product Name: [Yamaizumi Sweet White Miso, Fresh Koji, Dried Koji]. Foreign Name: Yamaizumi Shiromiso, Nama Koji, Hoshi Koji. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamaizumi Miso Seizo-sho. Manufacturer’s Address: 1436 Cahuenga Ave., Los Angeles, California. Date of Introduction: 1920. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1920. p. 277. Ad (¼ page, top right). At the top center of this ad is the large, bold Yamaizumi logo–a mountain over the character for “spring” (a source of water). Only the address is written in English: 1436 Cahuenga Ave., Los Angeles, Calif. Th ey make shiro miso, fresh koji, and dried koji. Same ad in 1921, p. 305. Also is 1921 directory, p. 314. Th eir fi rst phone: 579136. Also in 1922, p. 303 (ad) and p. 315 (directory). Also in 1923, p. 334 (ad, ¼-page bottom left ) and p. 355 (directory; Th e company is at the same address but in Hollywood instead of Los Angeles. Th e new phone number: Holly 3036).

Shoyu Seizô-sho, 1436 Cahuenga Ave., Hollywood. Phone: HEmpstead 3666) and p. S-234 (¼-page ad). Shiro miso, 282. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. Kyushu-zuke, nama (fresh) koji and hoshi (dried) koji. 1920. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American directory. Also in 1926, p. S-35 (directory) and p. S-75 (¼-page ad). No 16]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese American Ad (¼ page) in Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Index of cities. 23 cm. p. S-41. Yamaizumi Miso, Shoyu Seizô-sho is located at [Eng; Jap] 1506 Fishburn St., City Terrace, Los Angeles, California. A • Summary: Soyinfo Center has only the pages mentioning large illustration shows the company logo. Th e source of the soyfoods in the following cities in California: San Francisco, Yamaizumi brand (Seizô hanbai moto). Th ere follows a poetic Oakland, San Jose, Sacramento, Fresno, Los Angeles. Plus message in Japanese: Like a mountain spring, daily spring out Portland (Oregon), and Seattle (Washington). See individual our highly acclaimed sweet white miso (shiro miso), shoyu, directory entries and advertisements. Address: San Francisco, chop suey sauce, koji, Kanro (sweet) Koji, and Japanese-style California. Kyushu pickles (Kyushu-zuke). Th e directory entry (p. S-53) contains the same name, address, and phone number. Note 3. 283. Product Name: Tofu. City Terrace is about 3 miles east of downtown Los Angeles, Manufacturer’s Name: Nakaoka Tofu-ten. near today’s USC Medical Center. Manufacturer’s Address: 1421 Kern St., Fresno, California. Also in 1932, p. 346 (directory; name is given as Phone: 2-2960. Yamaizumi Miso Seizô-sho. New phone number: ANgelus Date of Introduction: 1920. August. 6336). Note 4. Th e word “Shoyu” is no longer in the company New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American name; they apparently no longer make shoyu. However, the Directory. 1930. p. 264. Letter from A.M. Araki. 1990. Dec. use of a shorter company name in the directory than in the 31. “I came to the USA in Aug. 1920. At that time in Fresno ad may refl ect space limitations in the free directory. there were two tofu shops in Japantown: Yokota Tofu-ten, and Also in 1934, p. 395 (directory; Company name given in Nakaoka Tofu-ten. Th e owner of Nakaoka Tofu-ten died in Japanese as Yamaizumi Miso Seizô-sho) and p. 297. Ad (1/8 about 1922, so the company was taken over by Mr. Zenkichi page). Yamaizumi Miso Shoyu Seizô-sho. Note 5. In the ad Nagahama, who renamed it Nagahama Tofu-ten, and ran it only “Shoyu” is back in the company name. 1532 Fishburn for about 20 years until 1942.” St., City Terrace, Los Angeles. Phone: ANgelus 6336. Also Note 1. Tofu shops in Fresno during the period from 1920 in 1936, p. 374 (directory; Yamaizumi Miso Seizô-sho) and on, according to the very complete and detailed Japanese p. 375 (¼-page ad; company name: Yamaizumi Miso, Koji American Directory, were: Kawamoto Tofu-ya (1920-1926), Seizô-sho). Also in 1937, p. 320. Also in 1938, p. 348. Also in Tanabe Tofu-ya (1920), Togawa Tofu-ya (1921), Yokota Tofu- 1939, p. 339. ya (1922). Th e Japanese American Directory. 1940. p. 326-27. Listed Note 2: For future history, see Nagahama Tofu-ten (1922). in the category “Foodstuff Factory.” Yamaizumi Miso Seizô- sho (Yamaizumi Miso Koji Mfg. Co.), 1532 Fishburn Ter., Los 284. Product Name: Soy sauce. Angeles, California. Phone: ANgelus 6336. Th e address has Manufacturer’s Name: Hawn Soy Co. (A. Kanayama). changed, but not the phone number. Also in 1941, p. 328. Manufacturer’s Address: 1136 Pua Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Hawaii. Directory]. 1952, p. 310. Under “Food Manufacturers.” In Date of Introduction: 1920. Japanese: Yamaizumi Miso Seizô-sho. In English: Yamaizumi New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and Miso & Koji Mfg. Co., 1532 Fishburn Ave., Los Angeles. the Territory of Hawaii. 1920. p. 448. Kanayama, A. soymkr Phone: AN. 5035. [soy maker], Hawn Soy Co. Residence, 1136 Pua Lane. Note: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. Th is entry was found completely by chance. Th ere is no Hawn 234. (Based on an interview with Noritoshi Kanai, president listed in the 1920 directory, and the names Kanayama or of Miyako Oriental Foods). Th e company started in 1948 Hawn do not appear in the 1919 directory. Th ey are also not under the direction of Mr. Nagai, a craft sman from Fukuoka, in either year’s business index under “Soy.” Japan. During the 1960s their business declined, and in 1972 they started repacking Marufuku-brand miso imported from 285. Product Name: Miso. the American-Hawaiian Soy Company in Honolulu, and Manufacturer’s Name: Kanda (T.) Miso Manufacturer. Name selling it in America under the Yamaizumi brand. In 1975 changed in 1924 to Kanda Soy & Miso Factory (Kanda Seizo- Miyako Oriental Foods bought the rights to the Yamaizumi sho). brand from Mrs. Nagai and the Yamaizumi company ceased Manufacturer’s Address: Pacifi c Rd., corner of Iwilei Rd., operations. Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Note 6. Th is is the earliest record seen (April 2009) related Date of Introduction: 1920. to Miyako Oriental Foods. New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 92 and the Territory of Hawaii. 1920. p. 448. “Kanda, T. Miso Nichibei Nenkan: Also in 1914, p. 215. But the address is manufacturer. Pacifi c Rd., corner of Iwilei Rd. Residence, now 86½ N. 5th St. same. In 1923 Directory, address changes to Quinn Lane. In Ad in Oregon News / Oshû Nippô. 1915. Jan. 1 (Taisho 4). 1924 Directory, listing changes to Kanda Soy & Miso Factory, p. 20. Includes Ota Tofu-ten (at 86½ N. 5th Street, Portland). 62 Quinn Lane. 1928-29 Directory. Kanda Shokwai [Shokai]. Note: Th e new location is only about 3 blocks from the T. Kanda, president. R. Watanabe, v.p. K. Kanda, manager. original one. Th is ad was discovered by Dave Conklin of Soy and Miso Manufacturers. Koula corner Halekauwila. Portland, Oregon (See March 2007 SoyaScan Interview). Phone: 5135. P.O. Box 934. Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei Nippon-jin Kan (Directory Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. of Japanese in the USA). p. 357. Ota Tofu-ten, 86½ North 5th “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Says: St., Portland. No phone number is given. “Kanda Seizo-sho, founded by Takejiro Kanda in the 1920s. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1920. p. 451 (directory; On Cooke St., Honolulu.” Wm. Higa. 1980. History of Miso Ota Tofu-ten, 86½ N. 5th St., Portland. Phone: A4069). Also Companies in Hawaii; Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of in 1921, p. 471 (directory). Also in 1923, p. 554 (directory; Miso. 2nd ed. p. 234. Th is was the second miso company in slightly new address: 86 N. 5th St. Slightly new phone: Hawaii and the United States, started in 1920 by Mr. Takejiro 5-4069). Also in 1924, p. 595 (directory; new address: 86 N. Kanda. No longer in business. 4th St. New phone number: Bea 4069). Also in 1925, p. O-75. Also in 1926, p. O-76. 286. Product Name: Tofu. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. S-319. Ota Manufacturer’s Name: Kawamoto Tofu-ya. Tofu-ten, 86 North 4th St., Portland. Phone: BEa 4069. Also Manufacturer’s Address: 1031 F St., Fresno, California. in 1932, p. 612 (directory; 86 N. 4th St. Bea. 4089). Also in Phone: 1953W. 1934, p. 519 (directory; new address: 322 N.W. 5th Ave., Date of Introduction: 1920. Portland. Phone: Bea. 4069). Also in 1936, p. 608. Also in New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American 1937, p. 541. Also in 1938, p. 564. Also in 1939, p. 553. Also Directory. 1920. p. 225. Also in 1921, p. 236. Also ad (1/8) in 1940, p. 573 (directory; new phone number: BE 1720). page in 1925, p. N-270. Name, address and phone have Polk’s Portland City Directory for 1915 has a listing for changed to: Kawamoto Tofu-ten, 1421 Kern St. Phone: “Ota, S. Baths 86½ 5th N.” Th e 1921 edition, p. 954, lists 4065R. Quick service. “Ohta, H. (T). Baker. 86½ 5th N. Home same.” Th e 1924 Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei Nippon-jin Kan (Directory edition, p. 1276, lists “Ota, H. Restaurant 86½ 5th N. Home of Japanese in the USA). p. 238. Kawamoto Tofu-ya is now same.” Th e 1926 edition lists “Ohta, S. Baker. 86½ 5th N. at a new address: 1421 Kern St., Fresno. Phone: 1953-R. Also r do” (= Residence, ditto). Th e 1930 edition, p. 1232, lists in 1924, p. 285 (directory; phone number is now 4065R). “Ohta, Saizo (Shino). Food products. 86½ 5th N. Home, 92 Also in 1925, p. N-261 (directory). Also in 1926, p. N-256 5th N.” Th e 1936 edition, p. 976, lists “Ohta, Saizo wholesale (directory). baker 322...” Th e 1941 edition, p. 1130, lists “Ohta Saizo (Shina) wholesale baker 322 NW 5th av h324 do.” Th e 1950 287. Product Name: Aburaage [Deep-fried tofu pouches]. ed, p. 802, fi rst mentions soy: “Ohta Shina (widow of Saizo) Manufacturer’s Name: Ota Tofu-ya. (Soybean Cake Co) home 322 NW 5th av.” Note: Why does Manufacturer’s Address: 86½ N. 5th Street, Portland, this Caucasian-owned directory fail to understand that this Oregon. company makes tofu, when the Japanese-owned directory Date of Introduction: 1920? understands so clearly? (1) It could have been a lack of New Product–Documentation: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1911. interest, combined with some racism. (2) Th ere may well Nichi-Bei Nenkan [Japanese-American Yearbook]. Directory have been a language barrier, especially with a word like tofu, entry p. 151. In Japanese: Ohta Tofu-ten. In English: 266 which was not yet part of the English vocabulary. (3) Th e Davis St., Portland. Phone: A4069. Note: Th is may have Japanese, who were being persecuted during this time, may been the un-named Japanese tofu shop in Portland in 1909. not have wanted the dominant culture to know what they However it is defi nitely the earliest document seen (July were doing–for various reasons. 2008) that mentions Ota Tofu in Portland, Oregon. Crane Portland Directory. 1949, p. 12. “NW 5th–322 Soy Also in 1912 directory, p. 177, but the address is now 96 Bean Cake Co.” N. 5th St., and the phone is A1069. Also in 1913 directory, p. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times 226, but the address is now 86 N. 5th St., and the phone is A Directory]. 1952, p. 410. Under “Stores.” Surprisingly, there 4069. is no listing for Ota Tofu Co. However there is an entries Hokubei Nenkan–North American Yearbook. 1913, p. (p. 413) for four Ohtas residing in Portland: Ohta, George. 43. Th e names of the Ota brothers, Saizô and Heiji given in 4743 S. Hawthorne St. Phone: EM. 5137 Ohta, Zenjiroo (or Japanese characters. No address is given, but the entry says Yoshijiroo), 415 N. Kiska St. Ohta, Shina, 322 N.W. 5th Ave. they came from Okayama. Tel. BR. 8363. Ohta, Suejiroo, Rt. 7, Box 80-E. Th ere is also

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 93 an entry (p. 410) for: In Japanese: Asahi Tofu-ten. In English: moved in about 1980-81. Asahi Tofu Co., 322 N.W. 5th Ave., Portland. Note: Talk with Letter (fax) from Geoff rey Wexler, Senior Archivist, Eileen Ota. 2009. April 9. Ko said their grandmother is said Oregon Historical Society, 1200 SW Park Ave., Portland, to have renamed the company Asahi Tofu Co. She remembers Oregon, to Mr. Roy Yotsuuye. 2007. June 1. Concerning the because when they were trying to choose a logo for their fi rst Ota Tofu Co. Th e “two addresses (226 [sic] Davis Street and packages, Ko’s father chose one with a sun on it; he said it was 96 North Fift h St.) were not the same location. Th e major because the company used to be called Asahi. At some point street renaming took place around 1892, when the ‘alphabet’ the grandmother moved (Eileen recalls) from 5th Ave. to 322 streets (A, B, C, etc.) were given the names of Portland N.W. Everett St. pioneers (Ankeny, Burnside, Couch, Davis, etc.). Th e next Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 799. major change was between 1931 and 1933, when all the house Directory entry, under “Japanese Food Stores.” In Japanese: numbers in the city were changed and many street names Oota Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: Ota Tofu Factory, 322 N.W. were altered too. At that time North Fift h Street became Everett, Portland, Oregon. Phone: 222-2454. Northwest Fift h Avenue, and Davis Street became Northwest Ito, Kazuo. 1973. Issei: A history of Japanese immigrants Davis Street.” in North America. Translated by Shinichiro Nakamura and Jean S. Gerard. Seattle, Washington: Executive Committee for 288. Product Name: Tofu. Publication of Issei, c/o Japanese Community Service, 1414 Manufacturer’s Name: Araya (Shinya?, Shintani?, Aratani?) S. Weller St., Seattle, WA 98144. xxviii + 1016 p. Th e map of Tofu-ya. the old Japanese district of Portland, Oregon, at the front of Manufacturer’s Address: 74 Japanese Alley, Sacramento, the book (unnumbered page) shows “Ohta Tofu Mfg.” located California. Phone: Main 2165-J. on 5th Ave., between N.W. Everett and N.W. Flanders. Page Date of Introduction: 1921. January. 780 states this map is from the 1920s, but a Portland librarian New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American believes it was from 1935. Directory. 1921. p. 169. Note: Sakumura Tofu-ya was making Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. tofu at this address in 1919. Th e phone number has also Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu changed. Note: Th e correct pronunciation of the 1st word in (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops the company’s name (written only in Chinese characters) is and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 398. Ota Tofu Factory, 322 unclear. Also in 1922, p. 158. Phone number is now 2162J. N.W. Everett St., Portland, OR 97209. Phone: 503-222-2456. Owner: Unknown. 289. Product Name: Shoyu (Soy Sauce). Th e company is now Ota Tofu Factory, 322 N.W. Everett Manufacturer’s Name: Hasegawa Shoyu Hanbai-sho St., Portland, Oregon 97209. Phone: 222-2456. Soyfoods (Hasegawa Soy Sauce Seller). Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. 22. Shurtleff Manufacturer’s Address: 81 N. 9th Street, Portland, Oregon. & Aoyagi. 1983. Soyfoods Industry & Market. Starting date Phone: 5-2046. given as 1919. Dixon. 1987. Willamette Week (Portland, Date of Introduction: 1921. January. Oregon). May 14. “Tofu and Tortillas on the Line. Th ird New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American generation members of the Ota clan continue a business Directory. 1921. p. 471 (directory). Note: Th is company is not started in 1918.” Th e company is now named Ota Tofu Co. a manufacturer. Whether they sell imported or American- Talk with Eileen Ota. 1992. March 26. History of Ota Tofu made shoyu is not known. Also in 1922, p. 497. Shop in Portland, Oregon (which see) Talk with Eileen Ota of Ota Tofu Co. in Portland. 2007. 290. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. May 7 and June 11. Th e fi rst character of the name Ota has 1921/01. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American always been written with the character pronounced “futoi” or directory. No 17]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese “Oh” and meaning “fat.” Th erefore, the name of this company American News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Jan. 1. Index of is pronounced “Ota” / “Ohta,” not “Futoda.” Both of the cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] above addresses were defi nitely in Japantown, which was • Summary: Soyinfo Center has only the pages mentioning north of Burnside Street. Chinatown was south of Burnside. soyfoods in the following cities in California: San Francisco, During World War II, when the Japanese were evacuated and Oakland, San Jose, Sacramento, Fresno, Los Angeles. Plus relocated, the Chinese moved into Japantown and largely Portland (Oregon), and Seattle (Washington). See individual took it over. Eileen (who was born in 1949) recalls that when directory entries and advertisements. Address: San Francisco, the Japanese were allowed to return to Portland aft er World California. War II, when she was growing up, there were still many abandoned buildings in the old Japantown with winos and 291. Product Name: Miso. gypsies living in them or in their doorways. Today Ohta Tofu Manufacturer’s Name: Kagidai Miso Seizo-sho. is located on the east side of the Willamette River, where they Manufacturer’s Address: 1534 Post St., San Francisco,

California. Phone: West 3286. Arada Miso oyobi Koji Seizo-sho in 1923. Date of Introduction: 1921. January. Manufacturer’s Address: 922 G St., Fresno, California. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Phone: 2797R. Directory. 1921. p. 64. Note: In 1920 Nagatomi Miso Seizô- Date of Introduction: 1921. January. sho was at this same address and phone number. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1921. p. 231. Also in 1921, p. 234. Ad (1/8 page). 292. Product Name: Miso. In addition to the basic information given above, states that Manufacturer’s Name: Nihonichi Miso Seizo-sho (Nihonichi the owner is Mr. Arada. Also in 1922, p. 226 (directory) and Miso Mfg. Co.). Renamed Nihon Miso Seizo-sho in 1924. p. 228 (Ad). Also in 1923 directory, p. 262. Th e company now Manufacturer’s Address: 439 Turner Ave., Los Angeles, has a new name: Arada Miso Oyobi Koji Seizô-sho (Arada California. Phone: 16836. Miso and Koji Manufacturing Co.). Date of Introduction: 1921. January. Also in 1924, p. 277 (ad; Th e company name is now New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Shiro-miso, Koji Seizô-sho, at 923 G. St. Owner: Mr. Directory. 1921. p. 314. Note: Nihon-ichi means “Japan No. Arada. Phone: 2707R). and p. 281 (directory; the company 1.” Also in 1922, p. 315. Also in 1923, p. 355. Also in 1924, p. name here is the same as it was in 1923!). Also in 1925, p. 394 (directory; the company has a new name: Nihon Miso N-261 (directory and 1/8 page ad). Also in 1926, p. N-256 Seizô-sho. New phone number: 827260) and p. 394 (¼-page (directory; new phone number 2797R) and p. N-256 (1/8- ad, shows new company name and number. Owner: Mr. page ad; Shiro-miso, Koji Seizô-sho. Phone: 2797R). KANAMINE (?) Katsumaro. Wholesaler and retailer of miso, Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. 264. Arada shoyu, and koji). Miso Koji Seizô-sho, at 923 G St., Fresno, California. Phone: Also in 1925, p. S-44 (directory; new phone number: 2-4388. Also in 1932, p. 257 (directory; new phone number: VAndike 7260. Address: 439 Turner St.) and p. S-44 (ad, ¼ 2-4388). Also in 1934, p. 239. Also in 1936, p. 286 (directory). page bottom right). Also in 1926, p. S-33 (directory) and p. S-73 (¼-page ad; the company now makes miso, koji, and 295. Product Name: Tofu. natto. Sells wholesale and retail). Manufacturer’s Name: Togawa Tofu-ya (Togawa Tofu Shop). Manufacturer’s Address: 842 Japanese Alley, Fresno, 293. Product Name: Tofu. California. Phone: 2615J. Manufacturer’s Name: Sakura-fu Tofu-ya (Sacramento Tofu Date of Introduction: 1921. January. Shop). New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Address: 76 Japanese Alley, Sacramento, Directory. 1921. p. 236. Note: In 1920 Tanabe Tofu-ya was California. making tofu at this address and phone number. Date of Introduction: 1921. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American 296. Product Name: Miso. Directory. 1921. p. 169. No phone number is given. Note: Manufacturer’s Name: Watanabe Miso Seizo-sho [Watanabe Sakura-fu is the Japanese name for “Sacramento.” Also in Miso Manufacturing Co.]. Renamed Sacramento Miso Seizo- 1922, p. 158. Phone number is now Main 1725W. Also in sho in 1922. 1923, p. 182. Also in 1924, p. 193. Also in 1925, p. N-164. Manufacturer’s Address: 427½ North St., Sacramento, Also in 1926, p. N-161. California. Phone: Main 2933J. Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 240. Category: Date of Introduction: 1921. January. “Tofu Factories, Misc. Factories.” Sakara-fu Tofu-ten, New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Sacramento Tofu Co., 1521 5th St., Sacramento. Phone: HU Directory. 1921. p. 163. In 1920 the company’s name was 4-3274 (new address and phone number). Watanabe Koji Seizô-sho [Watanabe Koji Manufacturing Entry in Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Evacuation-Resettlement Co.]; same address and phone no. Also in 1922, p. 149. But Report. Directory of manufacturers, p. 101 (top center the company has been renamed Sacramento Miso Seizô-sho. right). In Japanese: Sakura-fu Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: Same address and phone. Also in 1923, p. 173. Also in 1924, Sacramento Tofu Factory, 1521 5th St., Sacramento, p. 193. Also in 1925, p. N-164. Also in 1926, p. N-162. California. Phone: 4-3274. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times 297. Product Name: Shoyu. Directory]. 1952, p. 174. Under “Factories.” In Japanese: Manufacturer’s Name: Yasuhara Shoyu Seizo-sho (Yasuhara Sakura-fu Tofu-ten. In English: Sacramento Tofu Co., 1521 Soy Sauce Mfg. Co.). 5th St., Sacramento. Phone: HU 4-3274. Manufacturer’s Address: 219 Jackson St., Los Angeles, California. Phone: 11938. 294. Product Name: Koji, Miso. Date of Introduction: 1921. January. Manufacturer’s Name: Shiro Koji, Miso Seizo-sho. Renamed New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American

Directory. 1921. p. 314. Also in 1922 directory, p. 315. Also Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 234. Th is was the third miso in 1923, p. 355 (directory; new phone number: Main 5670). company in Hawaii and the United States, started in 1921 by Also in 1924, p. 383 (1/8-page ad all in Japanese. Name is Mr. Shuji Takei. No longer in business. given here as Yasuhara Shoyu Jozo-sho {Brewery}. Phone: 820658. Owner: Mr. YASUHARA Kei) and p. 394 (directory; 300. Product Name: Tofu. Yasuhara Shoyu Seizô-sho. Phone: 820658 and Main 5670). Manufacturer’s Name: Fukumoto Tofu-ya. Also in 1925, p. S-44 (directory; new phone number: TUcker Manufacturer’s Address: 414 L & M Alley, Sacramento, 1458). Also in 1926, p. S-35 (directory) and p. S-71 (1/8-page California. Phone: Main 4168W. ad). Date of Introduction: 1922. January. Ad (1/8 page) in Th e Japanese American Directory. 1925. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American p. S-49. All in Japanese. Yasuhara Shoyu Seizôsho, 219-21 Directory. 1922. p. 158. Note: In 1921 Kamiya Tofu-ya made Jackson St., Los Angeles, California. Phone: TUcker 1458. tofu at this address and phone number. Owner: Kei Yasuhara. In addition to soy sauce (shoyu), also makes miso and koji. 301. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. Same ad in 1930. p. S-40. Th e directory entry (p. S-53) 1922/01. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American contains the same name, address, and phone number. Also directory. No 18]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese in 1932, p. 346 (directory) and p. 347 (1/8-page ad). Also in American News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Jan. 1. Index of 1934, p. 305 (directory). Also in 1936, p. 374 (directory). cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] Th e Japanese American Directory. 1940. p. 326-27. Listed • Summary: Soyinfo Center has only the pages mentioning in the category “Foodstuff Factory.” In characters: Yasuhara soyfoods in the following cities in California: San Francisco, Shoyu Seizô-sho. In English: Yasuhara Shoyu Mfg. Co., 219 Oakland, San Jose, Sacramento, Fresno, Los Angeles. Plus Jackson St., Los Angeles. Note: Th ey were not listed in this Portland (Oregon), and Seattle (Washington). See individual directory in 1937, 1938, or 1939. Th ey apparently no longer directory entries and advertisements. Published Jan. 1 by make miso or koji. Also in 1941, p. 328. Nichibei Shinbunsha. Address: San Francisco, California.

298. Product Name: Miso. 302. Product Name: Koji, and Miso. Manufacturer’s Name: Araki (T.). Manufacturer’s Name: Kanedai Koji, Miso Seizo-sho Manufacturer’s Address: 15 Ohia Lane, Hilo, Island of (Kanedai Koji Miso Co.). Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: 1534 Post St., San Francisco, Date of Introduction: 1921. California. Phone: West 3286. New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu Date of Introduction: 1922. January. and the Territory of Hawaii. 1921. p. 967. Araki, T., Miso New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer, rear 15 Ohia Lane, Hilo, Hawaii. Note: T. Directory. 1922. p. 40. Note: In 1921 Kanedai / Kagidai Miso Araki is listed as a baker in the 1920 Directory. Note also Seizô-sho was at this same address and phone number. Also that in 1928-29 Sotaro Araki started making miso in Hilo, in 1923, p. 60. Also in 1924, p. 58. Also in 1925, p. N-17. Also perhaps a relative. in 1926, p. N-22. Ad in 1922 directory. In English: “Kane Dai Koji & Miso 299. Product Name: Matsu-jirushi Shiro Miso. Co., 1534 Post. St., San Francisco, California.” In Japanese: Manufacturer’s Name: Takei Miso Factory (Takei Miso Th e original maker of Kane Dai brand American-made koji Seizo-sho). and miso. Also makes pickles. Sells wholesale and retail. Manufacturer’s Address: Kahului, Maui, Hawaii. Ad (¼ page) in 1925 directory, p. N-63. Similar to 1922 ad Date of Introduction: 1921. except “Kane-Dai” is hyphenated.” New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei Nippon-jin Kan (Directory Directory. 1936-37, p. Maui 25. Shûji Takei (from Yamaguchi of Japanese in the USA). p. 50. Gives company name and prefecture), Takei Koji, Miso Seizô-gyo [Takei Koji & Miso address. Th e display ad for this company says it was the fi rst Manufacturing Co.] Box 237, Kahului, Maui. to make koji and miso in the USA (Beikoku koji oyobi miso Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. no ganso). Note that this company was later purchased by “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Takei and merged with Norio Co. Miso Seizo-sho was founded in about 1921 by Shuji TAKEI. Same ad in 1923, p. 43 (top right). Same ad in 1924, Th ey made Matsu-jirushi Shiro Miso, but are no longer in p. 31 (top right). Half-page ad in Th e Japanese American business. Directory. 1926. p. 31. Th e largest writing is in English at Note: In the 1909 there was apparently a shoyu maker the top: “Kane-dai Co., 1534 Post St., S.F., Calif. Phone West named H. Hirao in Kahului. Wm. Higa. 1980. History 3286.” Most of the ad and characters are in Japanese. Maker of Miso Companies in Hawaii; Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. of Kane-dai brand koji and miso.

303. Product Name: Shoyu. Manufacturer’s Name: Kinka Shoyu Jozo Moto (Kinka Soy Sauce Brewery). Manufacturer’s Address: 219 Jackson St., Los Angeles, California. Phone: Main 5650. Date of Introduction: 1922. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1922. p. 335. Ad (¼ page). Th is business is at the same address as Yasuhara Shoyu and is apparently owned by the same man, Yasuhara Kinzo (or Kanezo or Kei). Phone: Main 5650, Home 11938 (the same phone number as Yasuhara Shoyu). Note: In this same boxed ad, Mr. Yasuhara advertises his other enterprises. He is a wholesaler and retailer of Japanese and western foods, and also runs the Yasuhara Hotel at 235 Jackson St.

304. Noda Shoyu K.K. 1922. Tenka ippin. Saijô shôyu [Th e best under heaven. Th e No. 1 shoyu (Ad)]. In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1922. Japanese-American Directory (Nichibei Jushoroku). Page 19 near front. [Jap] • Summary: Ad (half page). All in Japanese. Near the center is a photo of a large (18 liter = 1 to) keg of Kikkoman shoyu, with bamboo hoops, tied with rice-straw rope. Address: Chiba-ken (prefecture), Noda-chô (machi=town) [Japan].

305. Fujimoto Co. (Fujimoto Shokai). 1922. Kanemasa (Ad). In: Nichibei Shinbun-sha. 1922. Japanese-American Directory (Nichibei Jushoroku). Page 30 near front. [Jap; eng] • Summary: Ad (full-page). Th e top 1/5 of this ad is in English. Miso, koji, pickles manufacturing department, 1014 Stockton St.; Phone: Kearny 2339. Japanese food, groceries, direct importing and exporting department, 1640 Post St.; Manufacturer’s Name: Eto Tofu-ten. Phone: West 733. Th e prominent brand / logo is pronounced Manufacturer’s Address: 119 E. Lafayette St., Stockton, Kanemasa–Not Kadomasa, Kakumasa, Kanesho, Kadosho, or California. Phone: 4408-W. Kakusho. Note: Similar but smaller ads, and all in Japanese, Date of Introduction: 1922. appeared in 1920 and 1921. New Product–Documentation: Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei Th e Japanese American Directory. 1923, p. 36. Full- Nippon-jin Kan (Directory of Japanese in the USA). p. 409. page ad. Same as 1922 except the company is now making Note: See the 1941 listing for Lafayette Tofu at this address. Japanese rice vinegar. Same full-page ad as in 1922, p. 29, but the main offi ce and plant are now at 238 Jackson St.; 308. Product Name: Tofu. rice vinegar is no longer mentioned. Ad also in 1924, p. 21, Manufacturer’s Name: No-?? Tofu-ya. however a 2nd phone number is given: West 7353. Address: Manufacturer’s Address: 635 North 6th Street, San Jose, San Francisco, California. California. Date of Introduction: 1922. 306. Product Name: Miso, and Koji. New Product–Documentation: Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei Manufacturer’s Name: Arata Miso Koji Seizo-sho. Nippon-jin Kan (Directory of Japanese in the USA). p. 207. Manufacturer’s Address: 825 F Street, Fresno, California. Th e pronunciation of the second character in the company Phone: 3285-J. name is unknown. In the 1940 directory a company named Date of Introduction: 1922. Yoshizato Tofu Ten was listed at this address. New Product–Documentation: Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei Nippon-jin Kan (Directory of Japanese in the USA). p. 234. 309. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Ohchi Tofu, Unso. 307. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 423 First St., San Diego, California.

Date of Introduction: 1922. Also in 1938, p. 272. Also in 1939, p. 271. Also in 1940, p. 270 New Product–Documentation: Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. (1/12 p. ad) and p. 271 (directory). Zaibei Nippon-jin Kan (Directory of Japanese in the USA). Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 257. Yokota p. 346. Th e company name is written with the Chinese Tofu-ten (in characters), Yokota Tofu Shop, 942 E St. (in characters meaning “Big + Pond.” Unso refers to a drayage/ English), Fresno, California. Phone: 28-232. Residence (p. transportation company. No phone number is given. 276): T. Yokota, 942 E St. Note: Th is company probably became Tokubo, then Hashimoto Tofu, then Star Tofu, then 310. Product Name: Miso, and Shoyu. Goto Tofu, then Fresno Tofu, run by Brad Kubota (starting Manufacturer’s Name: Tsuruda Miso Shoyu Seizo-sho Nov. 1982). (Tsuruda Miso & Shoyu Mfg. Co.). Letter from A.M. Araki. 1990. Dec. 31. “I came to the Manufacturer’s Address: 472 Jackson St., San Jose, California. USA in Aug. 1920. At that time in Fresno there were two tofu Phone: 5539. shops in Japantown: Yokota Tofu-ten, and Nakaoka Tofu-ten. Date of Introduction: 1922. Yokota Tofu-ten was run by Mr. Tadakazu Yokota.” New Product–Documentation: Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei Nippon-jin Kan (Directory of Japanese in the USA). p. 208. 313. Product Name: Tofu. San Jose City Directories. 1927-1936. Th e fi rst listing, Manufacturer’s Name: Yonekura Tofu-ten. in 1927, says: Tsuruda Co., Nabutaro Tsuruda, mgr. Food Manufacturer’s Address: 304 S. El Dorado St., Stockton, products. 472 Josefa, San Jose. In 1929 the company name California. Phone: 4600-J. had changed to Tsuruda Bros. (Nabutaro and Tsuneo). Yasua Date of Introduction: 1922. and Yoshio were factory heads. In 1932 the occupation fi rst New Product–Documentation: Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei changed to condiment manufacturers from food products. Nippon-jin Kan (Directory of Japanese in the USA). p. 409. In 1936 the listing was: Tsuruda Bros. Mitsuo Tsuruda, mgr. Condiment mfrs, 472 Josefa. 314. Product Name: Tofu, and Agé. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. Manufacturer’s Name: Tofu-ya. 234. Started by Mr. and Mrs. Tsuruda, this company was shut Manufacturer’s Address: 437 5th Ave. between Island Ave. down during World War II and never resumed. and J Streets, San Diego, California. Date of Introduction: 1922? 311. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Talk with Haruki Koba, Manufacturer’s Name: Watagawa Tofu-ya. former owner of Oriental Groceries. 1989. Oct. 25. In the Manufacturer’s Address: 842 Japanese Alley, Fresno, early 1920s, before the War, there was a tofu shop in San California. Phone: 2615-J. Diego on 5th Street between Island and J Streets, very close to Date of Introduction: 1922. where Mr. Koba used to make tofu, near where the Nanking New Product–Documentation: Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei restaurant is now. It was later purchased by Mr. Himaka. Nippon-jin Kan (Directory of Japanese in the USA). p. 238. Haruki was born in Coronado (southern California) in 1920 and he recalls eating tofu when he was small. 312. Product Name: Tofu. Talk with Osa Himaka, son of Chosuke Himaka. 1989. Manufacturer’s Name: Yokota Tofu-ya. Oct. 26. In about 1928 his father bought a tofu business from Manufacturer’s Address: 940 E Street, Fresno, California. another tofu maker, whose name Osa does not remember. It Phone: 5679. was named Tofu-ya (written only in Japanese characters). Date of Introduction: 1922. New Product–Documentation: Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei 315. Product Name: Tofu. Nippon-jin Kan (Directory of Japanese in the USA). p. 238. Manufacturer’s Name: Asahi Tofu-ten (Asahi Tofu Co.). Th e Japanese American Directory. 1924. p. 285 (directory; Manufacturer’s Address: 52 North 3rd Street, Portland, Yokota Tofu-ya, 940 E. St., Fresno. Phone: 5679). Also in Oregon. 1925, p. N-261 (directory; the address is now 942 E St. Date of Introduction: 1923. January. New phone: 8654; Ad on p. N-272). Also in 1926, p. N-256 How Stored: Refrigerated. (directory). New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. 264. Th e Directory. 1923. p. 554 (directory; no phone number is company is now Yokota Tofu-ten, 942 E St., Fresno. Phone: given). Also in 1924, p. 595 (directory; new phone number: 2-8232. A 1/12 page ad (p. 271) for Yokota Tofu-ten (in Bea 2671). Also in 1925, p. O-75. Also in 1926, p. O-76. characters) gives only the address and phone number shown Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times above. Also in 1932, p. 257 (directory). Also in 1934, p. 239. Directory]. 1952, p. 410. Under “Stores.” In Japanese: Asahi Ad (1/12 page). p. 240. Yokota Tofu-ten. Also in 1936, p. 286 Tofu-ten. In English: Asahi Tofu Co., 322 N.W. 5th Ave. (new (directory; Yokota Tofu-ten, 942 E. St.). Also in 1937, p. 248. address), Portland, Oregon. Phone: BR. 8363 (new phone

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 98 number). Limited Partnership). Manufacturer’s Address: 472 Josefa St., San Jose, California. 316. Product Name: Tofu. Phone: San Jose Manufacturer’s Name: Ishihara Tofu-ya. 5539. Manufacturer’s Address: 414 L & M Alley, Sacramento, Date of California. Phone: Main 4618W. Introduction: Date of Introduction: 1923. January. 1923. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American New Product– Directory. 1923. p. 182. Note: In 1922 Fukumoto Tofu-ya Documentation: was making tofu at this address. Also in 1924, p. 193. Phone Th e Japanese number is now Main 1424. Also in 1925, p. N-164. Also in American 1926, p. N-162. Also in 1930. p. 170. Also in 1932, p. 169. Directory. 1923. Also in 1934, p. 172. Also in 1937, p. 173. Also in 1938, p. p. 138. Ad (¼- 190. page) at bottom middle of same 317. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. page (all in 1923/01. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American Japanese) says directory. No 19]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese the company American News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Jan. 1. Index of makes Marusho cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] (or possibly • Summary: Soyinfo Center has only the pages mentioning Marumasa) soyfoods in the following cities in California: San Francisco, brand miso Oakland, San Jose, Sacramento, Fresno, Los Angeles. Plus and shoyu. Portland (Oregon), and Seattle (Washington). See individual Marusho is directory entries and advertisements. Published Jan. 1 by their registered Nichibei Shinbunsha. Address: San Francisco, California. trademark (toroku 318. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Rafu Tofu-ten (Los Angeles Tofu Shop). Manufacturer’s Address: 921 San Julian St., Los Angeles, California. Phone: 824304. Date of Introduction: 1923. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1923. p. 357. Note 1. A company named Rafu Tofu-ya started making tofu in Los Angeles in 1914. Th e relationship (if any) between these two companies is unclear. Note 2. Rafu is the Japanese nickname for Los Angeles.

319. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Sawamura Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 74 Japanese Alley, Sacramento, California. Phone: Main 2162-J. Date of Introduction: 1923. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1923. p. 182. Note: Araya (Shinya?, Shintani?, Aratani?) Tofu-ya was making tofu at this address in 1922. Also in 1924, p. 193. Also in 1925, p. N-164.

320. Product Name: Maru-sho brand Miso, Shoyu [Soy Sauce]. Manufacturer’s Name: Tsuruda Goshi-gaisha (Tsuruda Limited Partnership). Miso, Shoyu Seizo-sho. Renamed Tsuruda Kyodai Goshi-gaisha in 1930 (Tsuruda Brothers

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 99 shohyo). Also in 1925. p. 4. Full-page ad (all in Japanese). (BC, Canada) 414 koku, New York 381 koku, Seattle Th e company now makes and sells koji. Tsuruda (probably (Washington state) 290 koku. Address: Noda, Japan. not Tsuruta) Goshi-gaisha makes Maru-sho brand miso, shoyu, and koji. 473 Josefa St. (probably is 472 Josefa), San 322. Product Name: Soy sauce. Jose. No phone number listed. A large illustration shows Manufacturer’s Name: Chinese & Korean Soy Co. (C.K. Soy Maru-sho brand shoyu in a 30 oz. glass bottle, and a keg, Co.). Maru-sho brand miso in the same size keg, and Maru-sho Manufacturer’s Address: 2406 Notley, Honolulu, Oahu, koji in a wooden box. Also in 1924 directory, p. 143. Address Hawaii. Phone: 89550. is now 472 Josefa St. Also in 1924, p. 143. Also in 1925, p. Date of Introduction: 1923. N-114. Also in 1926, p. N-111. Still 472 Josefa. Full-page New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and ad (identical to that of 1923) also in 1926, p. N-113. Also in the Territory of Hawaii. 1923. p. 224. Chinese & Korean 1930 directory, p. 116. New company name: Tsuruda Kyodai Soy Co. (C.K. Soy Co.), W.K. Ahn, mngr, groceries, canned Shokai. Miso, shoyu. 472 Josefa St., San Jose, California. goods, general merchandise and soy. 346 N. Beretania. Tel Phone: BAllard 5539. Also in 1932 directory, p. 112, plus ad 2541. Soy Factory, 2406 Notley, Tel. 89550. P.O. Box 1454. (¼ page) on same page, bottom right. Makes Maru-sho brand miso, shoyu, and koji. Also in 1934 directory, p. 116. Also in 323. Product Name: Tofu. 1936 directory, p. 140. Manufacturer’s Name: Iwanaga (H.) Daufu. Manufacturer’s Address: Rear 1031 Aala, Honolulu, Oahu, 321. Kikkoman. 1923-1954. [Monthly and annual soy sauce Hawaii. Residence same. exports from Japan (1923-54)]. Noda: Kikkoman. Statistical Date of Introduction: 1923. tables. 22 p. [Jap; eng+] New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. • Summary: In 1923, some 11,720 koku of shoyu [soy sauce], 1923. H. Iwanaga Daufu Manufacturer (H. Iwanaga, worth 799,022 yen, were exported from Japan. (Note: 1 koku proprietor). Rear 1031 Aala, Honolulu. = 180 liters or 47.6 gallons). Of this, 5,307 koku went to Note 1. Th is is the earliest known tofu maker in the the USA and Hawaii (3,330 koku to the USA), 709 koku to Hawaiian Islands (one of three). Note 2. Th is is the earliest Canada, 5,108 koku to Asia (incl. 2,311 koku to Canton and English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the 1,447 koku to China), and 201 koku to Europe. In 1924 total word “daufu” to refer to tofu. Since the company is owned by exports increased to 13,149 koku. a Japanese man (H. Iwanaga), this was probably an error in A table shows Kikkoman’s exports of shoyu by country transliteration; it was changed to “Tofu” in 1924. from 1938 to 1944. In 1938 Kikkoman exported 80 tonnes Honolulu City Directory. 1924. Now listed as H. Iwanaga (metric tons) of shoyu to Peru and Argentina. In 1939, the Tofu Manufacturer. 1925 Directory. Listed as Mrs. Chita peak year, 10,658 tonnes were exported; of this 4,444 tonnes Iwanaga Tofu. Same address. Probably the widow. Not listed (41.7% of the total) went to the USA and Hawaii, 2,680 1926. Th e earliest listings seen for tofu manufacturers in tonnes went to Manchuria, and 2,098 tonnes to China. Hawaii appeared in 1923. Th ree companies were listed and Another table shows total Japanese exports of shoyu by this was one of the three. Aft er being purchased twice by country from 1938 to 1944. In 1939, the peak year, 34,838 Shoshiro Kanehori and Mrs. Haruko Uyeda, it was fi nally tonnes (metric tons) were exported; of this 4,351 tonnes (12% purchased in 1939 by Mr. and Mrs. Shokin Yamauchi, and of the total) went to the USA and Hawaii, 293 tonnes went to later renamed Aala Tofu Co. It is thus the earliest known Canada, 50 tonnes to South America (Peru and Argentina), Hawaiian ancestor of Hinode Tofu Co., America’s largest tofu 63 tonnes to Europe (Holland), and 30,081 tonnes to Asia manufacturer, run by Mr. Shoan Yamauchi. (incl. 9,550 tonnes to Karafuto, 5,803 tonnes to Taiwan, Note 3. Th is is the earliest record seen (June 2011) 4,620 tonnes to Manchuria, 4,295 tonnes to China, and 1,336 concerning Hinode Tofu Co. tonnes to the Philippines). Another table shows exports of shoyu from Japan aft er 324. Product Name: Tofu. World War II (1949-1954) to various countries and regions Manufacturer’s Name: Ono (Yazaemon) Tofu. by Kikkoman and by all Japanese shoyu makers. Roughly Manufacturer’s Address: 1131b Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu, 85% of Japan’s exports were by Kikkoman. Th e total increased Oahu, Hawaii. from 6,066 koku in 1949 to 9,316 koku in 1954; of the 1954 Date of Introduction: 1923. fi gure, 7,009 koku went to the USA and 1,476 koku to Asia. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Another table shows exports of shoyu from Japan to major 1923. Yazaemon Ono Tofu (Yazaemon Ono, proprietor). cities from 1949 to 1954 by Kikkoman and by all of Japan. In Residence, 1131b Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu. Not listed 1925. 1954, worldwide, the cities receiving the most shoyu were: 1927 Directory. Listed as Yazaemon Ono Tofu. Address same. San Francisco 2,033 koku, Honolulu 1,926 koku, Los Angeles 1930-31. Address listed as 1131 Kapahulu, Honolulu. Not 1,504 koku, Okinawa 1,376 koku, Guam 647 koku, Vancouver listed 1934-35. Listed again in 1937-38 directory. Not listed

1954. Th e company was started by Mr. Yuichi Ueno. No longer in Note: Th is is the earliest known tofu maker in the business. Hawaiian Islands (one of three). 328. Photograph of Shinzaburo Mogi. 1923? Undated. 325. Product Name: Miso. • Summary: He is a member of the Kikkoman Mogi clan. Manufacturer’s Name: Takesuye (S.) Miso. Various later records tell the story of his life and work in the Manufacturer’s Address: Wailulku, Maui. United States. In 1923 he was treasurer of Oriental Show-You Date of Introduction: 1923. Co. and resided at 6210 Dorchester Ave., Chicago, Illinois. New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu Neither the date nor place of this photo are known. and the Territory of Hawaii. 1923. p. 1365. But not listed in the Business Directory under Miso Manufacturers. First 329. Product Name: [Sweet White Miso]. clearly listed there in 1924. Address is now Kahului. 1934-35 Foreign Name: Shiro-miso. Directory lists him as Takesue S. in Kahului, Island of Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Name: Harada Shiro-miso Seizo-sho (Harada Sweet White Miso Manufacturing Co.). Renamed Harada 326. Product Name: Tofu. Miso, Koji Seizo-sho in 1926. Manufacturer’s Name: Tanouye (Yasuzu) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 825 F St., Fresno, California. Manufacturer’s Address: 1612 Colburn, Honolulu, Oahu, Phone: 5606W. Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1924. January. Date of Introduction: 1923. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Directory. 1924. p. 277. Ad (1/10 page. Th e company also 1923. Yasuzu Tanouye Tofu (Yasuzu Tanouye, proprietor). makes pickles and koji. Th e address has changed to 825 F. Rear 1612 Colburn, Honolulu. Also in 1928-29 Directory. St. New phone number: 2858W). Also in 1925, p. N-261 Address listed as 1612 Colburn, Honolulu. 1934-35 Directory. (directory and 1/8 page ad; still has two diff erent names). Name listed as Yasuzo Tanouye Tofu. Also in 1926, p. N-256 (directory; Harada Miso, Koji Seizô- Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 180. sho). Yasuzô Tanoue (from Kumamoto prefecture), tofu maker, Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. 264. A 1/12 1602 Colburn St., Honolulu. page ad (p. 271) gives the company name and address (in Not listed 1947-48 Honolulu City Directory. characters): Harada Miso Koji Seizô-sho, 825 F St., Fresno, Note: Th is is the earliest known tofu maker in the California. Phone: 2-1761. Th ey also make and sell various Hawaiian Islands (one of three). Japanese-style pickles (tsukemono).

327. Product Name: Miso. 330. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. Manufacturer’s Name: Ueno Miso Factory (Ueno Koji-ten). 1924/01. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Address: 639 North King St., Honolulu, directory. No 20]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese Oahu, Hawaii. American News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Jan. 1. Index of Date of Introduction: 1923. cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu • Summary: Soyinfo Center has only the pages mentioning and the Territory of Hawaii. 1923. p. 950. Ueno Yakuma, soyfoods in the following cities in California: San Francisco, miso, 1100f Hoapili Lane. General Store, 639 N. King. 1924 Oakland, San Jose, Sacramento, Fresno, Los Angeles. Plus Directory. p. 469. Residence given as 639 N. King. 1928-29 Portland (Oregon), and Seattle (Washington). See individual Directory. p. 516, 837. Ueno Yakuma/Yakumo, General Store directory entries and advertisements. Published Jan. 1 by 639 N. King. Miso, 1100f Hoapili Lane. Note: No business Nichibei Shinbunsha. Address: San Francisco, California. name is listed yet. Yakuma is listed as a vinegar manufacturer in the 1922 Directory. Phone numbers are 8818 and 8896. 331. Product Name: Miso, Koji. Y. Ueno is listed as early as 1917. 1914 Directory. p. 712. Manufacturer’s Name: Kushiro Miso, Koji Seizo-sho Yakuma, U., soy, 642 N. King. Residence, same. 1947-48 (Kushiro Miso & Koji Manufacturing Co.). Directory. p. 1216. Yakuma Ueno, 1024 Hoapili Lane, Manufacturer’s Address: 915 Meridian Ave., South Pasadena, Honolulu, is the only miso mnfr listed for this year. California. Phone: ELliot 1367. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. Date of Introduction: 1924. January. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Says: New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American “Ueno Koji-ten, founded by UENO Yuichi at 639 N. King St., Directory. 1924. p. 369. Ad (½ page vertical). Th e top part Honolulu. No longer in business.” No date of founding given. is written in English: “Kushiro Miso Koji Mfg. Co., 915 Wm. Higa. 1980. History of Miso Companies in Hawaii; Meridian Ave., So. Pasadena, California. Tel. 351367.” But Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 234. most of the ad (about 85%) is in Japanese. At the top of

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 102 the Japanese part, an illustration shows two containers of New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American koji, side by side. On each is written, from right to left , in Directory. 1925. p. N-94. Name is in Japanese only. Address Chinese characters and hiragana, tokusei hoshi kauji (today and phone no. are in English. Phone: 37. Ad (1/10 page) p. pronounced tokusei hoshi koji = special dried koji). Th e N-95. Note: Alvarado is just south of Hayward and east of company makes both fresh and dried koji. Th ey are trying Union City in northern California. to get a patent for their new koji making process. Also in 1925, p. S-44 (¼-page ad, bottom left . New phone number: 335. Product Name: [Tofu Powder, and Processed Shrimp]. ELiot 1367. Th ey are still trying to get a patent for their new Foreign Name: Tofu-ko Oboro Ebi. koji making process). Directory entry p. S-155 under South Manufacturer’s Name: Tofu-ko Oboro Ebi Seizo Gaisha. Pasadena. Same address and phone. Manufacturer’s Address: 1909 Bush St., San Francisco, Also in 1926, p. S-73 (¼-page ad; Th ey have been issued a California. Phone: Fillmore 2606. patent on their new koji making process). Date of Introduction: 1924. January. Ad (¼ page) in Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American p. S-41. Phone: ELliot 1367. A maker and seller of high Directory. 1924. p. 59. Th e directory listing raises several quality koji. Special patented koji. Sold in an 8-kin container questions: What is Tofu-ko / Tofu powder? What is Oboro of Takara [Treasure] Koji. An illustration shows one or two Ebi? A food made from processed shrimp? In the world containers of this koji. On each is written (in horizontal of soy, “oboro” means soymilk curds, which are pressed to characters, from right to left ), hoshi koji = dried koji. Note: A make tofu. Is there any connection or relationship between kin is a Japanese unit of measuring capacity / volume. 1 kin Tofu-ko and Oboro Ebi, or are they two diff erent, completely = 1.323 lb = 600 gm at this time. Th e 1st directory entry (p. independent foods? S-53) contains the same name, address, and phone number. Also in 1925, p. N-17. Th e phone number appears to have But the 2nd directory entry (p. S-171) contains the same changed from Fillmore 2606 to Fillmore 2660. Also in 1926, address and phone number, but the company name is given p. N-22. Phone is Fillmore 2660. as Kushiro Miso, Koji Seizô-sho. 336. Product Name: Maruman Shoyu, and Marua Shiro 332. Product Name: Koji, Miso. Miso. Manufacturer’s Name: Oofu Koji, Miso Seizo-sho (Oakland Manufacturer’s Name: America Honolulu Shoyu K.K. Koji, Miso Manufacturing Co.) Manufacturer’s Address: Banyan St., Honolulu, Oahu, Manufacturer’s Address: 283 7th St., Oakland, California. Hawaii. Phone: Lakeside 4373. Date of Introduction: 1924. Date of Introduction: 1924. January. New Product–Documentation: Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, Directory. 1924. p. 99. Note: Oofu is the Japanese name for miso, shoyu no rekishi.” States that the company was founded Oakland. Also in 1925, p. N-67. Also in 1926, p. N-67. in about 1924 by a merger of the Honolulu Shoyu Co. (1906, N. King St.) and the America Shoyu Jozo K.K. Th ey are still 333. Product Name: Miso, Vinegar, Koji. in business, presently making miso. Manufacturer’s Name: San Jose Miso, Su, Koji Seizo-jo (San Jose Miso, Vinegar, Koji Manufacturing Co.). Renamed Sa- 337. Product Name: Shoyu. shi (San Jose) Koji, Miso Seizo-sho in 1925. Manufacturer’s Name: Kanda Soy & Miso Factory (Kanda Manufacturer’s Address: North 7th and Jackson Streets, San Seizo-sho). Jose, California. Manufacturer’s Address: 62 Quinn Rd., Honolulu, Oahu, Date of Introduction: 1924. January. Hawaii. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1924. Directory. 1924. p. 143. No phone number given. Also in New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and 1925, p. N-114. Renamed Sa-shi (San Jose) Koji, Miso Seizô- the Territory of Hawaii. Company started in 1920 making sho. Jackson & North 7th St. Phone: S.J. 1015. Also in 1926, miso. 1924 Directory. Kanda Soy & Miso Factory, 62 Quinn p. N-111. Lane. 1926 Directory. Listed as Kanda Shokwai. 1927 Directory. Address listed as Koula, corner of Halekauila, 334. Product Name: Tofu. Honolulu. 1928-29 Directory. Kanda Shokwai [Shokai]. T. Manufacturer’s Name: Takumi Tofu Sakana-ten (Takumi Kanda, president. R. Watanabe, v.p. K. Kanda, manager. Soy Tofu and Fish Shop). and Miso Manufacturers. Koula corner Halekauwila. Phone: Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 144, Alvarado, California. 5135. P.O. Box 934. Phone: 37. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. Date of Introduction: 1924. January. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Says:

“Kanda Seizo-sho, founded by Takejiro Kanda in the 1920s. Distributors, Columbia City, Indiana)” to Shinzaburo MOGI On Cooke St., Honolulu.” Wm. Higa. 1980. History of Miso of Noda Shoyu Co. 1928. Nov. 2 (Bound in Log of Dorsett- Companies in Hawaii; Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Morse Expedition to East Asia, p. 51). States that Mr. Ohki Miso. 2nd ed. p. 234. Th is was the second miso company in visited the Noda Shoyu factory in 1917. Hawaii and the United States, started in 1920 by Mr. Takejiro L.B. Breedlove. 1936. Chicago J. of Commerce and La Kanda. No longer in business. Salle Street Journal. June 25. p. 14. “Soy bean–Th e magic plant. Article XI.” “Oriental Show-You Company, Columbia 338. Product Name: Tofu. City, Indiana: Show-You sauce.” A photo shows Commercial Manufacturer’s Name: Kaneko (M.) General Store, Tofu Soyfoods Products in William Morse’s Offi ce. 1936; Gray. Manufacturer. 1936. All About the Soya Bean. p. 123; International Inst. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 11, Holualoa, Island of of Agriculture. 1936. Le Soja dans le Monde [Th e Soybean Hawaii. in the World]. See: Manufacturers of edible soy products. p. Date of Introduction: 1924. 206. Show-You Sauce. Soybean Blue Book. 1947. p. 73; 1955. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. p. 106. Company name is now written “Oriental Showyou 1924. M. Kaneko General Store, Tofu Manufacturer (M. Co., Inc.” Columbia City is in northeast Indiana, southwest of Kaneko, proprietor). P.O. Box 11, Holualoa. Not listed 1930- Warsaw and northwest of Fort Wayne. Chicago is about 100 31. miles to the northwest. Ad in: Hokubei Shinpo-sha. 1948. Nyuyoku Benran: 339. Product Name: Tofu. Tsuketari jushoroku, 1948-1949 nendo [New York Japanese Manufacturer’s Name: Kidani (Mrs. Shin) Tofu. American directory: 1948-1949]. Ad p. B-14. Oriental Show- Manufacturer’s Address: 995 Akepo Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, You Company. Manufacturers of Oriental Show-You (Ad). Hawaii. Columbia City, Indiana. Date of Introduction: 1924. Th omas’ Wholesale Grocery... Register. 1955. July. p. 1474. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Soy sauce. Indiana, Columbia City: Oriental Show-You Co. 1924. Mrs. Shin Kidani Tofu Manufacturer (Mrs. Shin Kidani, Interview with Esta Keirn. 1981. Dec. 5. Th e Oriental proprietor). Rear 995 Akepo Ln., Honolulu. 1927 Directory. Show-You Company began production began production Listed as Toichi Kidani Tofu. 1930-31 Directory. Listed as of Japanese-style fermented soy sauce (shoyu) in Columbia Mrs. Shin Kidani Tofu. Not listed 1941-42. City, Indiana, in 1924. Th e company had been started in 1918 in Detroit, Michigan, by Shinzo Ohki, a Japanese man, who 340. Product Name: Tofu. began by importing shoyu and tea from Japan. In 1922 Mr. Manufacturer’s Name: Mizumoto (M.) Tofu Manufacturer. Ohki went to Japan to learn the method for making shoyu, Manufacturer’s Address: 1 ewa 16 North Kukui near Nuuanu then late that year he moved his business to Columbia City av., Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. and by 1924 was making shoyu, along with mung bean Date of Introduction: 1924. sprouts. Chow Mein noodles, Chop Suey, and Jigg’s Corn New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Beef and Cabbage. Th e company was quite small, making 1924. M. Mizumoto Tofu Manufacturer (M. Mizumoto, about 12,000 gallons of shoyu a year; this was sold mostly proprietor). 1 ewa 16 N. Kukui near Nuuanu av., Honolulu. in the Midwest, and only east of the Mississippi River. In Not listed 1928-29. 1932 Mr. Esta Keirn joined the company and soon became production manager. In 1963 Beatrice Foods (which had sold 341. Product Name: Tofu. La Choy HVP soy sauce since the early 1930s) acquired the Manufacturer’s Name: Okumoto (Enkichi) Tofu. company. Manufacturer’s Address: Keaau P.O., Olaa, Island of Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1924. 343. Product Name: Soybeans. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Name: Daizu Seisan-gaisha (Soybean 1924. Enkichi Okumoto Tofu (Enkichi Okumoto, proprietor). Production Co.). Keaau P.O., Olaa, Island of Hawaii. Not listed 1934-35. Manufacturer’s Address: Wilson St., Petaluma, California. Phone: 928. 342. Product Name: Oriental Show-You Sauce (Japanese- Date of Introduction: 1925. January. style Fermented Soy Sauce), and Mung Bean Sprouts. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Name: Oriental Show-You Co. Directory. 1925, p. N-142. Name is in Japanese only. In Manufacturer’s Address: Columbia City, Indiana. English: Wilson St., Petaluma, California. Phone: 928. Date of Introduction: 1924. January. New Product–Documentation: Letter from Shinzo OHKI 344. Product Name: Tofu. of “Oriental Show-You Company (Brewers- packers- Manufacturer’s Name: Denver Tofu Co.

Manufacturer’s Address: Downtown Denver. Furuya Ryokan, P.O. Box 91, Guadalupe, California. Owner: Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Mr. Shinjirô Furuya, Phone: 12M. Making and selling tofu. New Product–Documentation: Denver City Directories. Note 1. By 1930 this inn had changed its name (Endo 1925 and 1941. No listing for Sakurai. Ryokan) and owner (Mr. Kinosuke Endo). But it was still at Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 899. the same address and still make tofu. Directory entry, under “Food Products.” In Japanese: Denbaa Note 2. Guadalupe is near Santa Maria in Santa Barbara Tofu-sho (Yoshida). In English: Denver Tofu Co., 2430 County, southern California. Larimer St., Denver, Colorado. Phone: 623-5031. Kate Bulkeley. 1988. Denver Business Journal. July 11. 348. Product Name: Tofu. “Soy Products New Favor Spices Denver Tofu.” Denver Tofu Manufacturer’s Name: Hamazaka Ryokan oyobi Tofu-ya Inc., now owned by president Haru Yamamoto, is 63 years [Japanese-style Inn and Tofu Shop]. old. He bought the company in 1973, at which time he made Manufacturer’s Address: 218 1st St., Marysville, California. about 150 one-pound pieces of tofu a day. Talk with Mr. Phone: 228-W. Yamamoto. 1988. Aug. 25. Th e company was founded in 1925 Date of Introduction: 1925. January. by a Mr. Sakurai, and was then located in downtown Denver. New Product–Documentation: Japanese American In about 1960 Mr. Kiichi Yoshida bought the company, and in Directory. 1925, p. N-199. Name in Japanese. Hamazaka 1973 he sold it to Mr. Yamamoto. At that time it was located Ryokan oyobi Tofu-ya. In English: 218 1st St. Phone: 228-W. on Larimer St. From the beginning only one product had Ad (¼ page). p. 204. Tofu making and selling. Owner: Mr. been produced, a fairly fi rm tofu coagulated with calcium Tsuneyoshi Hamazaka. sulfate. Ad (1/8 page) in Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu 210. Phone: 1341. Making and selling tofu. Owner: Mr. Torao (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Iwanaga. and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 393. Denver Tofu Co., 6150 N. Federal Blvd. Denver, Colorado 80221. Phone: 303-426- 349. Product Name: Tofu. 0122. Owner: Mr. Harubisa Yamamoto. Manufacturer’s Name: Hashizume Shoten. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 455, Loomis, California. 345. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Manufacturer’s Name: Doi Tofu-ya. New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/8 page) in Japanese Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 779, Kemmerer, Wyoming. American Directory. 1925. p. N-191. All in Japanese. Fresh Date of Introduction: 1925. January. fi sh, making tofu. P.O. Box 455, Loomis, California. Owner: New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Mr. Tsunetaka Hashimoto. Note: By 1930 this shop was Directory. 1925. p. O-32. Company name is in Japanese owned by Mr. Fukumatsu Kashiwagi. characters. Address and phone are in English. Note: Th is is the earliest known company that makes soyfoods in 350. Product Name: Tofu. Wyoming. Manufacturer’s Name: Hatanaka Tofu-ya. Renamed Hatanaka Fusako Tofu-ten by 1941 346. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 431, Walnut Grove, Manufacturer’s Name: Furushizu? Furunori? Furumori? California. Furuyasu? etc. Tofu-ya. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 423, Walnut Grove, New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American California. Directory. 1925. p. N-214. Also in 1934, p. 209. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 230. Hatanaka New Product–Documentation: Japanese American Fusako Tofu-ten (in characters), F. Hatakana (in English). No Directory. 1925. p. N-214. Ad (1/8 page). p. N-214. phone. Tofu making and pool hall (kyôjô). Owner’s fi rst name: Yoshimatsu. Pronunciation of surname is unclear. 351. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Hayashi Sakana-ten (Fish Shop). 347. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 3, Florin, California. Manufacturer’s Name: Furuya Ryokan [Japanese-style Inn]. Phone: Capital 20F12. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 91, Guadalupe, California. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Phone: 12M. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Directory. 125. Ad (1/6 page), p. N-185. All in Japanese. New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/10 page) in Th e Hayashi Sakana-ten. Fresh fi sh, Making tofu. Various Japanese American Directory. 1925. p. S-172. All in Japanese. vegetables, ice cream, sweets, cigarettes. P.O. Box 3, Florin,

California. Phone: Capital 20F12. Mr. Yasutaro Hayashi. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American 352. Product Name: Tofu. Directory. 1925. p. N-308. Name is in Japanese: Ishizaka Manufacturer’s Name: Hayashi Tofu-ten. Tofu-ya, 212 N. Green St., Hanford, California. No phone. Manufacturer’s Address: 1613 Buchanan St., San Francisco, Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. 290. Name has California. Phone: West 2157. changed to Ishizaka Tofu-ten. Also in 1934, p. 263. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American 356. Product Name: Tofu. Directory. 1925. p. N-17. Note 1: Takasugi Tofu-ya made tofu Manufacturer’s Name: Iwamoto Tofu Unso-ten (Tofu & at this address and phone number in 1924. Note 2. Tofu- Transportation Co.). Renamed Iwamoto Unso Tofu by 1930. making companies in San Francisco whose names started Renamed Iwamoto Tofu-ten by 1941. with “Hayashi” (a very common Japanese name), began Manufacturer’s Address: 7 Lake St., Salinas, California. operation in 1906 (no address given), 1911 (1621 Buchanan Phone: 411. St.), and 1920 (1509½ Geary St.). It is not clear what Date of Introduction: 1925. January. relationships (if any) existed between these companies. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Also in 1926, p. N-22. Directory. 1925, p. N-133. Name is in Japanese only. In English: 7 Lake St., Salinas. Phone: 411. 353. Product Name: Tofu. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930, p. 140. Iwamoto Manufacturer’s Name: Hirabayashi Sengyo Tofu-ten Unso Tofu, 7 Lake St., Salinas. Phone: 411. Th e Japanese (Hirabayashi Fresh Fish & Tofu Shop). Renamed Hirabayashi American Directory. 1941. p. 148. Iwamoto Tofu-ten, 7 Sakana (Fish), Tofu-ya by 1930. Lake St., Salinas, California. Phone: 3610. Also in 1934. In Manufacturer’s Address: 123 Lake St., Salinas, California. Japanese: Iwamoto Tofu-ya. In English: 7 Lake St. Phone: 411. Phone: 6. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. 357. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American 1925/01. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American Directory. 1925, p. N-133. Name is in Japanese only. In directory. No 21]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese English: 123 Lake St., Salinas California. Phone: 6. American News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Jan. 1. Index of Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930, p. 140. A 1/8 cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] page ad (p. 141) gives the company name as Hirabayashi • Summary: Published Jan. 1 by Nichibei Shinbunsha. Sengyo-ten (Fresh Fish Shop) at the same address and phone Address: 650 Ellis St., San Francisco, California. Phone: number. Mr. Santaro Hirabayashi sells fi sh, makes and sells Prospect 238 or 239. tofu, and also sells sweet chestnuts (amaguri). 358. Product Name: Tofu, and Agé. 354. Product Name: Tofu, and Agé. Manufacturer’s Name: Kamiya Shoten (Kamiya Co.). Manufacturer’s Name: Ida Tofu Seizo-sho. Manufacturer’s Address: 468 Broadway, El Centro, Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 297, Garden Grove, California. Phone: 282. California. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. New Product–Documentation: Ad (¼ page) in Th e Japanese New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American American Directory. 1925. p. S-223. Across top of ad in Directory. 1925. p. S-188. A 1/10 page ad at the bottom of this English: Kamiya Co. In Japanese: Kamiya Shoten, 468 page states: Ida Tofu Seizô-sho, P.O. Box 297, Garden Grove, Broadway, El Centro, California. Owner: Mr. Matsutarô California. Owner: Mr. Kikumatsu Ida. No phone. Tofu, agé, Kamiya. Phone: 282. Sells Japanese and Western foods, other and various vegetables. goods, and fresh fi sh. Makes and sells agé and various kinds Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. S-187. Ad of tofu. (1/10 page) at bottom of this page; same company name Note: El Centro is about 90 miles east of San Diego, and and address. Located next to the Japanese language school. 10 miles south of Brawley, California. Tofu, agé and all vegetables. Policy holder of the insurance Ad (¼ page) in Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. company, Mr. Tadashi (?) Ida, will visit you anywhere as soon p. S-249. Same as 1925 ad. Also in 1934, p. 454. Ad (¼ page). as your request. Also in 1934, p. 395. Still no phone. Quite similar to 1925 ad. Th e company sells tofu and aburage, but it is not clear that they make these foods. 355. Product Name: Tofu. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 530. A 1/6 Manufacturer’s Name: Ishizaka Tofu-ya. page ad (in both Japanese and English) at the bottom of p. Manufacturer’s Address: 212 N. Green St., Hanford, 531 is titled “Kamiya Co.” It states that this Japanese and California. Western grocery store, owned by Mr. Masutaro Kamiya, sells

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 106 fresh fi sh, aburage, and various types of tofu. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 233. Raheddo Tofu-ten (in characters), Lafayette Tofu, 119 E. Lafayette St. 359. Product Name: Tofu. (in English), Stockton, California. Phone: 2-4176. Note: See Manufacturer’s Name: Kawabata Shoten (Kawabata Co.). the 1922 listing for Eto Tofu-ten at this address. Th ey could Manufacturer’s Address: 433 Broadway, El Centro, well be the same company. California. Phone: 282. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. 363. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/6 page) in Th e Manufacturer’s Name: Matsui Tofu-ten. Japanese American Directory. 1925. p. S-228. Kawabata Manufacturer’s Address: 2416 Grant Ave., Ogden, Utah. Shoten, 433 Broadway, El Centro, California. Owner: Mr. Phone: 3098. Heitarô Kawabata. No phone. Sells Japanese and Western Date of Introduction: 1925. January. foods, other goods, and fresh fi sh. Makes and sells of tofu. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Note: El Centro is about 90 miles east of San Diego, and Directory. 1925. p. O-19. Company name is in Japanese 10 miles south of Brawley, California. characters. Address and phone are in English. Owner: Mr. Tanekichi Matsui. 360. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Kawano Tofu-ya (Kawano Tofu Shop). 364. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 165 South Monterey St., Gilroy, Manufacturer’s Name: Murakami Sakana-ten (Fish Shop). California. Manufacturer’s Address: 32 Center St., Turlock, California. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/8 page) in Japanese Directory. 1925. p. N-123. Name is in Japanese only. Address American Directory. 1925. p. N-252. Fresh fi sh and various and phone no. are in English. No phone no. given. kinds of tofu. Owner: Murakami Tomiichirô? Noriichirô? Tomoichirô? etc. Also will help you to fi nd a job / work. Note: 361. Koona Sakana-ten [Corner Fish Shop]. 1925. Corner Turlock is located in California’s Central Valley, south of Fish Market (Ad). In: Th e Japanese American News. 1925. Modesto and north of Merced. Th e Japanese American Directory (Nichibei Jûshoroku). No. 21. p. N-199. [Jap] 365. Product Name: Tofu. • Summary: Ad (1/8 page). Japanese American Directory. Manufacturer’s Name: Nakanishi Ryokan (Japanese-style 1925, p. N-199. 201 C St. (P.O. Box 126), Marysville, Inn). California. Phone: 692-W. Fresh fi sh. Japanese and Western Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 536, Penryn, California. foods, tofu and vegetables. Owner: Mr. Tadayuki Yokoyobi? Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Yokohi? Quick delivery. Directory entry p. N-199. Corner New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/8 page) in Japanese- 2nd and C St. (P.O. Box 126), Marysville, California. Phone: American Directory. 1925, p. N-193. All in Japanese. 692-W. Note: Th e tofu sold here now is probably made in Nakanishi Ryokan. Fresh fi sh and tofu. P.O. Box 536, Penryn, Marysville by Hamazaka Ryokan & Tofu. California. Owner: Mr. Tsunegorô Nakanishi. Note: Th e tofu Ad (1/8 page). Japanese American Directory. 1930, p. 206. is probably made fresh by a tofu maker in the same town. Koona Sakana Shijo. 217 2nd St. (P.O. Box 1095), Marysville. Penryn is in Placer County, northeast of Sacramento, near Phone: 392. Selling fresh fi sh, meat, Japanese and American Auburn. groceries, tofu, and other goods. Also fi nding jobs for free. Owner: Yokotobi. Note: Th e tofu sold here now is probably 366. Product Name: Tofu. still made in Marysville by Iwanaga Ryokan & Tofu. Address: Manufacturer’s Name: Nishimura Tofu-ya. 217 2nd St. (P.O. Box 1095), Marysville, California. Phone: Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 78, Courtland, California. 342. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American 362. Product Name: Tofu. Directory. 1925. p. N-210. Also in 1930. p. 216. But the Manufacturer’s Name: Lafayette Tofu-ya. address has changed: P.O. Box 378, Courtland. Also in 1934, Manufacturer’s Address: 119 E. Lafayette St., Stockton, p. 206. California. Phone: 4408-W. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. 367. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Name: Okazaki Sengyo-ten (Fresh Fish Directory. 1925. p. N-229. Also 1930. p. 233. Phone has Shop). changed: 8319. Also in 1934, p. 219. In Japanese: Lafayette Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 107, Auburn, California. Tofu-ten (Jûjirô Yamaguchi). Phone: 203J.

Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. S-142. New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/8 page) in Japanese Umezuki Tofu-ya. 249 Cannery St., Terminal Island, American Directory. 1925, p. N-197. All in Japanese. Okazaki California. Phone: 3871. Note: Th e company name is written Sengyo-ten. Fresh fi sh, tofu, Japanese-style inn (ryokan). P.O. in Japanese characters only. Box 107, Auburn, California. Phone: 203J. 371. Product Name: Tofu. 368. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Sakuma Tofu Seizo-sho [Tofu Manufacturer’s Name: Okino (Umekichi) Sengyo, Tofu-ya Factory]. [Fresh Fish & Tofu Shop]. Manufacturer’s Address: 223 W. 1st South St., Salt Lake City, Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 195, Visalia, California. Utah. Phone: W. 7939W. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1925. p. N-304. Name is in Japanese only: Okino Directory. 1925. p. O-11. Name is in Japanese only. Address (Umekichi) Sengyo Tofu-ya. Owner’s name: Umekichi Okino. and phone number are in English. English: P.O. Box 195, Visalia, California. No phone. Th ey make and sell tofu, and sell fresh fi sh. 372. Product Name: Tofu, and Agé. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. 294. Name Manufacturer’s Name: Sasaki Sakana-ten (Fish Shop). is in Japanese only: Okino Sengyo Tofu-ten [Fresh Fish and Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 93, Penryn, California. Tofu Shop]. In English: 204 N. East St. (P.O. Box 694), Visalia, Phone: 7W. California. Also in 1934, p. 259. In Japanese: Okino Sakana- Date of Introduction: 1925. January. ten, Tofu-ten [Fish and Tofu Shop]. In English: 204 N. East New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/8 page) in Japanese St. No phone number. American Directory. 1925, p. N-193. All in Japanese. Sasaki Sakana-ten (Uo). Fresh fi sh, tofu, agé, produce, carpentry. 369. Product Name: Miso. P.O. Box 93, Penryn, California. Phone: 7W. Owner: Mr. Manufacturer’s Name: Ooshima-ya Koji, Miso Seizo-sho Sasaki Sukeichi? Yukikazu? Yoshikazu? Akikazu? etc. Note: [Ooshima Koji & Miso Manufacturing Co.]. Th e tofu made fresh in this shop is probably served (and Manufacturer’s Address: 1627 3rd St., Sacramento, maybe sold) in the Japanese-style inn in the same town. California. Phone: Main 5155-J. Penryn is in Placer County, northeast of Sacramento, near Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Auburn. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1925. p. N-157, N-164. 1627 3rd St., Sacramento, 373. Product Name: Tofu. California. Phone: Main 5155-J. Ad (1/8 page) in 1925, p. Manufacturer’s Name: Selma Tofu-ya. N-165. All in Japanese. Ooshima-ya Shoten. Maker of koji Manufacturer’s Address: 1507 W. Front St., Selma, California. and shiro miso (sweet white miso). Science applied and Date of Introduction: 1925. January. quality guaranteed. Ad (1/8 page) in 1926, p. N-151. Also in New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American 1926 directory, p. N-155. But phone number is now Main Directory. 1925. p. N-290. Name is in Japanese only. Address 3274-W. and phone number are in English.

370. Product Name: Tofu. 374. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Owashi Tofu-ya. Also called: Manufacturer’s Name: Shirashi Tofu-ya. Umitsuki-do? (Umezukido?, Kaigetsu-do?). Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 41, Courtland, California. Manufacturer’s Address: 721 Tuna St., Terminal Island, Date of Introduction: 1925. January. California. Phone: 1368. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Directory. 1925. p. N-210. Also in 1930. p. 216. But address New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American is now P.O. Box 336, Courtland. Note: Courtland is about 15 Directory. 1925. p. S-136. First directory entry and ad (1/10 miles south of Sacramento and 10 miles west of Elk Grove. page.) Both state: Umitsuki-dô? (Kaigetsu-dô?), 721 Tuna St., Also in 1934, p. 206. Terminal Island, Calif. Phone: 1368. Th e ad states: Making and selling tofu and aburage. Owner: Mr. Tokumatsu Owashi. 375. Product Name: Tofu. Makes and sells Japanese-style confections for weddings and Manufacturer’s Name: Teramoto Tofu-ya. funerals. Second directory entry gives company name as Manufacturer’s Address: 423 “I” St., San Diego, California. Owashi Tofu-ya; same address and phone. Phone: 66628. Note: Terminal Island is in southern California, about 10 Date of Introduction: 1925. January. miles south of Los Angeles, near Long Beach Harbor. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American

Directory. 1925. p. S-204. Name is in Japanese only. Address P.O. Box 804, Ogden, Utah. Phone: Not listed. Note: Th ere and phone number are in English. Teramoto Tofu-ya, 423 I were tofu makers at this address in 1907 and 1911. St., San Diego, California. Phone: 66628. Ad (1/10 page), p. S-209. Teramoto Unsô-ten (Transportation or Shipping Co.). 379. Product Name: Yamaizumi Shoyu. Same address and phone no. Owner: Mr. Sutekichi Teramoto. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamaizumi Miso Shoyu Seizo-sho. Making and selling tofu. We deliver quickly, even if your Manufacturer’s Address: 1436 Cahuenga Ave., Hollywood, order is small. Los Angeles, California. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. 376. Product Name: Tofu, Aburaage. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Name: TF Shokai. Directory. 1925, p. S-44 (directory, New phone number: Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 43, Del Rey, California. HEmpstead 3666) and p. S-110 (directory, Yamaizumi Miso Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Shoyu Seizô-sho, 1436 Cahuenga Ave., Hollywood. Phone: New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/8 page) in Th e HEmpstead 3666). Ad (¼ page), p. S-234. Yamaizumi Miso Japanese American Directory. 1925. p. N-286. TF Shôkai, P.O. Shoyu Seizô-sho. Note: Th is is the fi rst entry that mentions Box 43, Del Rey, California. No phone. Th ey sell Japanese- “shoyu.” Also in 1926, p. S-35 (directory) and p. S-75 (¼-page and Western-style foods, other goods, and fresh fi sh. Th ey ad). make and sell tofu and aburaage. Ad (¼ page) in Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. Ad (1/8 page) in Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. S-41. Yamaizumi Miso, Shoyu Seizô-sho is located at p. 279. Th ey sell Japanese- and Western-style foods and 1506 Fishburn St., City Terrace, Los Angeles, California. A groceries, fresh fi sh, and meat. Th ey make and sell tofu and large illustration shows the company logo. Th e source of the aburaage. Owner: Tsuneyoshi Fujimoto (found in residence Yamaizumi brand (Seizô hanbai moto). Th ere follows a poetic directory). Th e phone number is now DEl Rey 1. message in Japanese: Like a mountain spring, daily spring out our highly acclaimed sweet white miso (shiro miso), shoyu, 377. Product Name: Tofu. chop suey sauce, koji, Kanro (sweet) Koji, and Japanese-style Manufacturer’s Name: Vacaville Sakana, Yasai, Tofu-ten Kyushu pickles (Kyushu-zuke). Th e directory entry (p. S-53) (Fish, Vegetables & Tofu Shop). contains the same name, address, and phone number. Note: Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 511, Vacaville, California. City Terrace is about 3 miles east of downtown Los Angeles, Phone: 236. near today’s USC Medical Center. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Also in 1932, p. 346 (directory; name is given as New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Yamaizumi Miso Seizô-sho. New phone number: ANgelus Directory. 1925, p. N-146. Name is in Japanese only. Aft er the 6336). Note: Th e word “Shoyu” is no longer in the company company name, in Japanese, is given the names of the two name; they apparently no longer make shoyu. However, proprietors: Kôshichi Nakagaki and Yoshinosuke Nakagaki. the use of a shorter company name in the directory than In English: P.O. Box 511. Phone: 236. in the ad may refl ect space limitations in the free directory. Also in 1934, p. 297. Ad (1/8 page). Yamaizumi Miso Shoyu 378. Product Name: Tofu. Seizô-sho. Note: “Shoyu” is back in the company name. 1532 Manufacturer’s Name: Watanabe Tofu-ya. Fishburn St., City Terrace, Los Angeles. Phone: ANgelus Manufacturer’s Address: 176½ 24th St., Ogden, Utah. 6336. Also in 1936, p. 374 (directory; Yamaizumi Miso Seizô- Phone: 1736. sho) and p. 375 (¼-page ad; company name: Yamaizumi Date of Introduction: 1925. January. Miso, Koji Seizô-sho). Also in 1937, p. 320. Also in 1938, p. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American 348. Also in 1939, p. 339. Directory. 1925. p. O-19. Company name is in Japanese Th e Japanese American Directory. 1940. p. 326-27. Listed characters. Address and phone are in English. Owner: in the category “Foodstuff Factory.” Yamaizumi Miso Seizô- Tomesaku Watanabe. sho (Yamaizumi Miso Koji Mfg. Co.), 1532 Fishburn Ter., Los Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. S-288. Th e Angeles, California. Phone: ANgelus 6336. Th e address has address and phone number have changed. R-265½ 24th St. changed, but not the phone number. Also in 1941, p. 328. (P.O. Box 473), Ogden, Utah. Phone: 2312. Also in 1934, p. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 490. In English: R. 265½ 24th St., Ogden. No P.O. Box or 234. (Based on an interview with Noritoshi Kanai, president phone. of Miyako Oriental Foods). Th e company started in 1948 Hokubei Nenkan–Th e North American Times Year Book. under the direction of Mr. Nagai, a craft sman from Fukuoka, 1936, p. 289. Watanabe Tofu-ten, R 265½ 24th St., Ogden. Japan. During the 1960s their business declined, and in 1972 Mr. Tomesaku Watanabe. No phone. they started repacking Marufuku-brand miso imported from Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 614. Watanabe the American-Hawaiian Soy Company in Honolulu, and (Tomesaku) Tofu-ten (Watanabe Tofu Co.), R-265½ 24th St., selling it in America under the Yamaizumi brand. In 1975

Miyako Oriental Foods bought the rights to the Yamaizumi monosodium glutamate, and 1/10 of 1% of sodium benzoate, brand from Mrs. Nagai and the Yamaizumi company ceased a chemical preservative. operations. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1 pt 8 oz bottle. Note: Th is is the earliest record seen (April 2009) related How Stored: Shelf stable. to Miyako Oriental Foods. New Product–Documentation: Polk-Husted’s Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1925. Marumasa Soy 380. Product Name: Miso, and Koji. Co., 616 Cooke, Honolulu. 1927 Directory. Address given as Manufacturer’s Name: Yasuhara Shoyu Seizo-sho (Yasuhara 618 Cooke. Soy Sauce Mfg. Co.). Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 103. Manufacturer’s Address: 219-221 Jackson St., Los Angeles, Goichi Miyagi (from Okinawa prefecture), shoyu, miso, and California. Phone: TUcker 1458. koji manufacturer, 618 Cooke St., Honolulu. Date of Introduction: 1925. January. 1938-39 Polk’s Directory. Mrs. Oto Yamashiro, 618 New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/8 page) in Th e Cooke; 1948 and 1949 Directories. Shigeru Kawakami, 618 Japanese American Directory. 1925. p. S-49. All in Japanese. Cooke; 1954 Directory, p. 537. Marumasa Shoyu Factory Yasuhara Shoyu Seizôsho, 219-21 Jackson St., Los Angeles, (Mildred K. Kawakami). 618 Cooke. 1955 Directory, California. Phone: TUcker 1458. Owner: Kei Yasuhara. In Marumasa Shoyu Factory, 618 Cooke. Not listed in 1953. addition to soy sauce (shoyu), also makes miso and koji. 1966-67 Directory. Marumasa Shoyu Factory, 2132 Kaliawa. Same ad in 1930. p. S-40. Th e directory entry (p. S-53) Not listed 1967-68. contains the same name, address, and phone number. Also in 1932, p. 346 (directory) and p. 347 (1/8-page ad). Also in 1936, p. 374 (directory). Th e Japanese American Directory. 1940. p. 326-27. Listed in the category “Foodstuff Factory.” In characters: Yasuhara Shoyu Seizô-sho. In English: Yasuhara Shoyu Mfg. Co., 219 Jackson St., Los Angeles. Note: Th ey were not listed in this directory in 1937, 1938, or 1939. Th ey apparently no longer make miso or koji. Also in 1941, p. 328.

381. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Igasaki (Toichi) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1925. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1925. Toichi Igasaki Tofu (Toichi Igasaki, proprietor), Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Not listed 1927.

382. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Ishizaki / Ishiraki (Masaichi) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Rear 554 South, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1925. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. A photo shows an early circular Label. Marumasa Soy 1925. Masaichi Ishiraki Tofu (Masaichi Ishiraki, proprietor), Sauce. Choice. Made by natural fermentation process. Brewed rear 554 south, Honolulu. 1927 Directory. Address listed and bottled by Marumasa Shoyu Factory, 2132 Kaliawa St., as rear 572 south, Honolulu. 1928-29 Directory. Listed as Honolulu, Hawaii. Tel. 814911. Sheaves of wheat and soybean Masaichi Ishizaki Tofu. Not listed 1924, 1930-31. around the perimeter. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, 383. Product Name: Marumasa Soy Sauce. shoyu no rekishi.” Shows one label. Th is company has closed Manufacturer’s Name: Marumasa Soy Co. (Marumasa Shoyu but their brand is being carried on by the Honolulu Sake Factory). Brewery and Ice Co. Ltd. Manufacturer’s Address: 616 Cooke St., Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Phone: 814911. 384. Product Name: Shoyu. Date of Introduction: 1925. Manufacturer’s Name: Masuhara (T.M.). Ingredients: Soy beans, wheat, salt, caramel coloring, Manufacturer’s Address: 463 N. King, Honolulu, Oahu,

Hawaii. 389. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1925. Manufacturer’s Name: Sasaki (T.) Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Husted’s Directory of Manufacturer’s Address: 18 N. Kukui, Honolulu, Oahu, Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1925 T.M. Masuhara, Hawaii. 463 N. King, Honolulu. 1926 Directory. Address changed to Date of Introduction: 1925. 30 N. Vineyard. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1925. T. Sasaki Tofu (T. Sasaki, proprietor). 18 N. Kukui, 385. Product Name: Tofu. Honolulu. 1926 Directory. Listed as Taka Sasaki Tofu, 1 Manufacturer’s Name: Morioka (Katsuiki) Tofu. waikiki 30 S. Kukui, Honolulu. 1927 Directory. Listed as Mrs. Manufacturer’s Address: 1222 N. King, Honolulu, Oahu, Taka Sasaki. Address same. Not listed 1928-29. Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1925. 390. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamashita (Etsuzo) Tofu. 1925. Katsuiki Morioka Tofu (Katsuiki Moreioda, proprietor), Manufacturer’s Address: Hilo, Island of Hawaii. 1222 N. King, Honolulu. 1926 Directory. Listed as Matsukichi Date of Introduction: 1925. Morioka Tofu, 1357 N. King. 1927 Directory. Listed as New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Katsukichi Morioka Tofu. Address same. Residence, 965 1925. Etsuzo Yamashita Tofu (Etsuzo Yamashita, proprietor), Waiakamilo Rd., Honolulu. Not listed 1934-35. Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Not listed 1926.

386. Product Name: Tofu. 391. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Nishimoto (Otoichi? Otokazu? Manufacturer’s Name: Yonamine (E.) Tofu. Narikazu?) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Waipahu, Oahu, Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1925. Date of Introduction: 1925. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1925. E. Yonomine Tofu (E. Yonomine, proprietor), Waipahu, 1925. Otoichi Nishimoto Tofu (Otoichi Nishimoto, Honolulu. Not listed 1927. proprietor), Hilo, Island of Hawaii. 1928-29 Directory. Address changed to 19 Nawahi Ln., Hilo. 392. Product Name: Tofu. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, Island Manufacturer’s Name: Chiba Tofu-ten [Tofu Shop]. of Hawaii p. 21. Otoichi? Otokazu, Narikazu Nishimoto Manufacturer’s Address: Cordova St. (between Main and (from Hiroshima prefecture), tofu maker, Ponahawai St., Gore streets), Vancouver, BC, Canada. Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1925? Not listed 1947-48 in Honolulu City Directory. New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Nenkan–Th e North American Times Year Book. 1936, p. 254. Chiba Tofu-ten 387. Product Name: Tofu. [Tofu Shop], 206½ Main St., Vancouver, BC, Phone: Sey. Manufacturer’s Name: Okamoto (Daijiro) Tofu. 1278L. Owner: Mr. Inoshichi Chiba. Manufacturer’s Address: 905 Sheridan, Honolulu, Oahu, Ito, Kazuo. 1973. Issei: A history of Japanese immigrants Hawaii. in North America. Translated by Shinichiro Nakamura and Date of Introduction: 1925. Jean S. Gerard. Seattle, Washington: Executive Committee for New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Publication of Issei, c/o Japanese Community Service, 1414 S. 1925. Daijiro Okamoto Tofu (Daijiro Okamoto, proprietor), Weller St., Seattle, WA 98144. xxviii + 1016 p. Th e map of the 905 Sheridan, Honolulu. 1927. Address given as rear 905 old Japanese district of Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada, Sheridan, Honolulu. Not listed 1930-31. 1934-35 Directory. at the front of the book (unnumbered pages) shows “Chiba Listed at 1338 College Walk, Honolulu. Not listed 1936-37. Tofu.” Page 780 states this map is from the 1920s. Note: Th is is the earliest known commercial soy product 388. Product Name: Tofu. made in British Columbia province, Canada (one of three Manufacturer’s Name: Ryozo (Ariyoshi) Tofu. tofu products made in Vancouver). Manufacturer’s Address: 43 N. Pauahi, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. 393. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. Date of Introduction: 1925. 1926/01. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. directory. No 22]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese 1925. Ariyoshi Ryozo Tofu (Ariyoshi Ryozo, proprietor), 43 American News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Jan. 1. Index of N. Pauahi, Honolulu. Not listed 1927. cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] • Summary: Soyinfo Center has only the pages mentioning

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 111 soyfoods in the following cities in California: San Francisco, Oakland, San Jose, Sacramento, Fresno, Los Angeles. Plus 396. Product Name: Natto. Portland (Oregon), and Seattle (Washington). See individual Manufacturer’s Name: Nihon Miso Seizo-sho. directory entries and advertisements. Published Jan. 1 by Manufacturer’s Address: 439 Turner St., Los Angeles, Nichibei Shinbunsha. Address: San Francisco, California. California. Phone: VAndike 7260. Date of Introduction: 1926. January. 394. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Name: Kitamura Tofu-ya. Directory. 1926. p. S-33 (directory) and p. S-73 (¼-page ad; Manufacturer’s Address: 74 Japanese Alley, Sacramento, the company now makes miso, koji, and natto. Sells wholesale California. Phone: Main 2162-J. and retail). Date of Introduction: 1926. January. Note: Th is is the earliest known commercial natto made New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American in the United States. We are almost certain that this company Directory. 1926. p. N-161. Note: Sawamura Tofu-ya was makes natto in the USA; it is hard to imagine how they could making tofu at this address in 1925. import it from Japan in 1926 and there is no other known natto manufacturer in the Western world. As of June 2011 395. Product Name: Konnyaku, Tofu. some natto is imported frozen to the USA from Japan. Manufacturer’s Name: Murakami Konnyaku, Tofu Seizo-sho (Murakami Konnyaku and Tofu Manufacturer). 397. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 1525½ Geary St., San Francisco, Manufacturer’s Name: Kaji Tofu-ten. California. Phone: West 894. Manufacturer’s Address: 602 North 6th Street, San Jose, Date of Introduction: 1926. January. California. Phone: S.J. 3705-J. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1926. January. Directory. 1926. p. N-22. Note: Konnyaku is eight ounce gray, New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American fi rm, jellylike cakes made from the starch of Amorphallus Directory. 1926. p. N-116. Ad (1/8 page) at bottom right konjac, a devil’s tongue plant, a relative of the sweet potato. of this page. Kaji Shoten. Tofu maker. Fresh produce and Konnyaku is very low in calories, and can be made into grocery store. Note: Higuma Tofu-ten was making tofu at this threads (ito konnyaku) and noodles (shirataki). address in 1925. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. 115. Ad (1/8 page; p. 118) says that Kaji (?) Shoten, 602 N. 6th St., San Jose. Phone: BAllard 3705. Owner: Mr. Kumahiko Kaji sells tofu, vegetables, dry goods, groceries, and fruits. Also in 1932 directory, p. 111. Ad (1/8 page) in 1934 directory. All in Japanese. Owner: Mr. Kumahiko Kaji. Tofu, vegetables, groceries, other goods, fruits. Ad (1/8 page) also in 1936, p. 141. Same as ad in 1930.

398. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Hiroishi (S.) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Holualoa, Island of Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1926. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1926. S. Hiroishi Tofu (S. Hiroishi, proprietor). Holualoa, Island of Hawaii. 1930-31 Directory. Listed as S. Hiraishi. Not listed 1934-35.

399. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Honda (Eizo) Store (Tofu Manufacturers). Later becomes Rural Food Products. Manufacturer’s Address: Wahiawa, Oahu, Hawaii. Phone: Tel 3. Date of Introduction: 1926. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1926. Eizo Honda Store (Eizo Honda, proprietor), Wahiawa, Honolulu. 1928-29. Listed as Eizo Honda Store (Eizo Honda;

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 112 tofu manufacturers). Blue 237. P.O. Box 140, Wahiawa, 1926. Sunayemon Kimura Tofu and barber (Sunayemon Honolulu. Kimura, proprietor), Aloha Lane, makai King, Honolulu. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. Oahu 1930-31 Directory. Listed as Shinaemon Kimura. p. 30. Eizô Honda (from Kumamoto prefecture), tofu maker, Box 140, Wahiawa, Oahu. 404. Product Name: Tofu. Not listed 1947-48 Honolulu City Directory. 1951 Manufacturer’s Name: Ling Sing Tofu. Became Wong Wah Directory. Eizo Honda Tofu (Eizo Honda, proprietor). Yuen Tofu in 1935. Wahiawa, Honolulu. 1953 Directory. Changed to Haruo Manufacturer’s Address: 989 Akepo lane, Honolulu, Oahu, Honda Tofu (Haruo Honda, proprietor). 117 Mango, Hawaii. Wahiawa, Honolulu. 1955 Directory. Rural Food Products Date of Introduction: 1926. (Haruo Honda, proprietor). Same address. Not listed 1956. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1957 Directory. Honda Rural Food Products (Eizo and Haruo 1926. Ling Sing Tofu, 989 Akepo lane, Honolulu. 1930- Honda; tofu manufacturers). 1958-59 Directory. Rural Food 31 Directory. Listed as Lin Sing Tofu (Wong Wah Yuen, Products (Haruo Honda, proprietor). proprietor), 970 Austin Lane, Honolulu. 1934-35 Directory. Changed to Wong Wah Yuen Tofu. Address same. Not listed 400. Product Name: Tofu. 1941-42. Manufacturer’s Name: Ikeda (Manzo) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 1406 Liliha, rear. Honolulu, Oahu, 405. Product Name: Tofu. Hawaii. Residence same. Manufacturer’s Name: Oshijima (Buhachi) Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1926. Manufacturer’s Address: Hilo, Island of Hawaii. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Date of Introduction: 1926. 1926. Manzo Ikeda Tofu (Manzo Ikeda, proprietor). 1406 New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Liliha, rear. Honolulu. Not listed 1934-35. 1926. Buhachi Oshijima Tofu (Buhachi Oshijima, proprietor), Hilo, Island of Hawaii. 1927 Directory. Listed as Buhachi 401. Product Name: Tofu. Ushijima Tofu. 1928-29 Directory. Address given as Manufacturer’s Name: Inada (Asajiro) Tofu. Ponahawai, Hilo. 1941-42 Directory. Listed as Sakai Ushijima Manufacturer’s Address: 1128 Auld Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, Tofu, Hilo. Not listed 1947-48. Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1926. 406. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Name: Oyama (Kenchii) Tofu. 1926. Asajiro Inada Tofu (Asajiro Inada, proprietor). 1128 Manufacturer’s Address: 962 Robello Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, Auld Lane, Honolulu. Not listed 1947-48. Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1926. 402. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Name: Kanehori (Shoshiro) Tofu. 1926. Kenchii Oyama Tofu (Kenchii Oyama, proprietor). 962 Manufacturer’s Address: Rear 1031 Aala, Honolulu, Oahu, Robello Ln., Honolulu. 1930-31 Directory. Name listed as Hawaii. Residence 626 N. King. Phone: Tel 3616. Genji Oyama Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1926. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 145. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Genjo Ooyaama / Ohyama (from Fukushima prefecture), 1926. Shoshiro Kanehori Tofu (Shoshiro Kanehori, tofu maker, 962 Robello Lane, Honolulu. proprietor), rear 1031 Aala, Honolulu. 1927 Directory. 1947-48 Honolulu City Directory. Address listed as 964 Listed as Mrs. Shima Kanehori Tofu (Mrs. Shima Kanehori, Robello Lane, Honolulu. Not listed 1951. proprietor). Address same. Phone 3616. Residence 626 N. King, Honolulu. Not listed 1936-37. Th e business address is 407. Product Name: Tofu. the same location where H. Iwanaga and his wife made tofu Manufacturer’s Name: Tanaka (S.) Tofu. since 1923. Manufacturer’s Address: Honokaa, Island of Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1926. 403. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Name: Kimura (Sunayemon) Tofu 1926. S. Tanaka Tofu (S. Tanaka, proprietor). Honokaa, Island Manufacturer. of Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: Aloha lane, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. 408. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1926. Manufacturer’s Name: Yokoyama (Matazo) Tofu. Later New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Yokoyama Tofu Factory (1945), then Shimokawa Grocery &

Tofu Factory (1960). Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 160. Manufacturer’s Address: 2649 S. King, Honolulu, Oahu, Kamekichi Sawai (from Hiroshima prefecture), tofu maker, Hawaii. Japanese School, Manoa, Honolulu. Date of Introduction: 1926. Listed again in 1941-42 Honolulu City directory as New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Kumekichi Sawai, rear 2801, East Manoa Rd., Honolulu. Not 1926. Matazo Yokoyama Tofu (Matazo Yokoyama, listed 1947-48. proprietor). 2649 S. King, Honolulu. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 222. 413. Product Name: Tofu. Matazô Yokoyama (from Kumamoto prefecture), tofu shop Manufacturer’s Name: Tanoue (Tokunosuke) Tofu. (!), 2619 S. King St. (new address), Honolulu. Manufacturer’s Address: 3512 Kaau, Honolulu, Oahu, Not listed 1947-48 Honolulu City Directory. Carey D. Hawaii. Miller. 1945. Th iamine content of Japanese soybeans. p. 430. Date of Introduction: 1927. Acknowledges the assistance of Kisako Yanazawa of the New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Yokoyama Tofu Factory. 1927. Tokunosuke Tanouye Tofu (Tokunosuke Tanouye, Honolulu City Directory. 1954. Listed as Yokoyama Tofu proprietor). 3512 Kaau, Honolulu. 1930-31 Directory. Factory (Teizo Shimokawa; grocery & factory). 2639 S. King, Address listed as 3516 Kaau, Honolulu. 1934-35 Directory. Honolulu. Not listed 1959-60. Note, in 1960 the Shimokawa Listed as Tokunosuke Tanoue Tofu, 3512 Kaau, Honolulu. Grocery & Tofu Factory began operating at 2639 S. King, Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 179. Honolulu. Tokunosuke Tanoue (from Kumamoto prefecture), tofu maker, 3512 Kaau St., Honolulu. 409. Product Name: Tofu. Not listed 1941-42 Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Name: Hamasaki (K.) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Lihiwai, Hilo, Island of Hawaii. 414. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1927. Manufacturer’s Name: Tojo / Toojoo (Kikuemon) Tofu New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer. 1927. K. Hamasaki Tofu (K. Hamasaki, proprietor). Lihiwai, Manufacturer’s Address: 2216 S. King, Honolulu, Oahu, Hilo. Not listed 1930-31. Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1927. 410. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Name: Kato (Shotaro) Tofu. 1927. Kikuemon Tojo Tofu Manufacturer (Kikuemon Tojo, Manufacturer’s Address: 43 N. Pauahi, Honolulu, Oahu, proprietor). 2216 S. King, Honolulu. 1934-35 Directory. Hawaii. Changed to Azuma Tojo Tofu. Address same. 1936-37 Date of Introduction: 1927. Directory. Listed as Azuma Tojio Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 197. 1927. Shotaro Kato Tofu (Shotaro Kato, proprietor). 43 N. Azuma (Higashi? To?) Tôjô (from ?), tofu maker and seller of Pauahi, Honolulu. Not listed 1928-29. goods, 2216 S. King St., Honolulu. 1947-48 Honolulu City Directory. Address given as 2210 411. Product Name: Tofu. S. King, Honolulu. Not listed 1951. Manufacturer’s Name: No (Shin) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 480 N. Kukui, Honolulu, Hawaii. 415. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. Date of Introduction: 1927. 1927. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American directory. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. No 23]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese American 1927. Shin No Tofu (Shin No, proprietor). 480 N. Kukui, News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Index of cities. 23 cm. Honolulu. Not listed 1928-29. [Eng; Jap]* Address: San Francisco, California. 412. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Sawai (Kumekichi) Tofu. 416. Product Name: Koji Miso, and Miso-Zuke. Manufacturer’s Address: East Manoa Rd., Honolulu, Oahu, Manufacturer’s Name: Araki (Sotaro). Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: 45 Piopio, Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1927. Phone: 579. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Date of Introduction: 1928. 1927. Kumekichi Sawai Tofu (Kumekichi Sawai, proprietor). New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu East Manoa Rd., Honolulu. 1930-31 Directory. Name listed as and the Territory of Hawaii. 1928-29. p. 587. Araki Sotaro, Kamekichi Sawai. Not listed 1934-35. General Merchandise, Wholesale and Retail, Manufacturers

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 114 of Koji Miso and Miso-Zuke. 45 Piopio, Hilo, Island of Manufacturer’s Address: 2141 Powell St., Vancouver, BC, Hawaii. Tel. 579. P.O. Box 461. Canada. Phone: High. 5526 L. Date of Introduction: 1929. 417. Product Name: Tofu, and Agé. New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Nenkan–Th e North Manufacturer’s Name: Tofu-ya. American Times Year Book. 1936, p. 254. Amano Miso Seizô- Manufacturer’s Address: 437 5th Ave. between Island Ave. sho. Mr. Teiichi? (or Otokazu? or Kuniichi? or Chikakazu? or and J Streets, San Diego, California. Tsugikazu?). 2141 Powell St., Vancouver, BC. Phone: High. Date of Introduction: 1928. 5526 L. New Product–Documentation: Talk with Haruki Koba, Th e New Canadian. 1941. Aug. 22. p. 8. “For 12 years Mr. former owner of Oriental Groceries. 1989. Oct. 25. In the [Teiichi] Amano has been in the business of making Japanese early 1920s, before the War, there was a tofu shop in San miso.” Diego on 5th Street between Island and J Streets, very Vancouver City Directories. 1952-66. Th e fi rst listing is close to where Mr. Koba used to make tofu, near where the 1952: Amano, T. Co. (T. Amano). Soya sauce and rice paste Nanking restaurant is now. It was run by Mr. Himaka. He manufacturers. 1139 E. Hastings St. In 1955 the occupation made tofu and agé there until World War II broke out. He had changed to manufacturers, importers, and exporters.” had a son, Mich Himaka, who now works for the San Diego In 1966 it was: Amano, T., Co. Ltd. (T. Amano, president). Union newspaper (Phone: 619-299-3131). But there were Importers. 1139 E. Hastings. others before Mr. Himaka; he bought the tofu business from Interview with George Tsuchiya, general manager of somebody else, who used to make tofu there before him. Amano. 1981. Nov. 24; Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Haruki was born in Coronado (southern California) in Miso. 2nd ed. p. 234. “Th ere were several semi-commercial 1920 and he recalls eating tofu when he was small. “I think makers of miso and shoyu in Canada, in the Vancouver area, every community with even a small Japanese population prior to World War I, and at least one commercial miso had someone making tofu: Los Angeles, Gardena, El Centro, manufacturer was in the area prior to 1927. In that year [sic, Calexico, Imperial Valley. I think most of those shops were in 1929] Mr. T. Amano started Amano Brothers. p. 255. run by the family and did nothing but make tofu. I remember Listed as T. Amano Co. Ltd., 1139 E. Hastings St. In 1982 one cake cost 10 cents in those days.” He does not know any the T. Amano Co. was making a red miso and a sweet white particular company names but they would probably start miso.” with the family name, such as Himaka Tofu Shop. Talk with Michael Weiner. 1987. Dec. 16. Amano is Talk with Osa Himaka, Chosuke’s son (Phone: 619-276- presently the largest manufacturer of miso in Canada. Th ey 1856). 1989. Oct. 26. He was born in 1922 and he thinks his may soon break ground for a large, new miso and soy sauce father and mother (Chosuke and Zazuye) started the business plant. when he was about 6 years old. His father bought the Note: Th is is the earliest known commercial miso product business in a rental building from another tofu maker, whose made in Canada. name Osa does not remember. It was named Tofu-ya (written only in Japanese characters) and he did not change the name. 420. Product Name: Shoyu. Th e business continued until the night of 7 Dec. 1941 when Manufacturer’s Name: American-Hawaiian Soy Co., Ltd. Mr. Himaka was taken forcefully from his home. Th e family Manufacturer’s Address: Mauka, end Banyan, Honolulu, was placed in an internment camp until evacuation in April Oahu, Hawaii. 1942. It was not re-started. Th e family made tofu, agé, and Date of Introduction: 1929. konnyaku. Neither of Osa’s parents are now living. He has no New Product–Documentation: Polk Husted Co.’s Directory articles about the company but he does have a photo of the of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1928-29. Note that family taken in front of the shop. He thinks there was also a this may be a new name for American Soy Brewing Co. Ltd., Japanese run tofu shop in San Pedro at about that time. which existed by 1912 on Banyan St. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 47. 418. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. Hirazô Iinuma (from Niigata prefecture), shoyu company, 1928. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American directory. Banyan St. (Box 838), Honolulu. Also, p. 71 lists Tsutomo No 24]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese American Kimura (from Yamaguchi) as a worker at this shoyu company News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Index of cities. 23 cm. on Banyan St. Also, p. 90 lists Seitarô Masuhara (from [Eng; Jap]* Tokyo), residing at 30 N. Vineyard St., in “shoyu sales.” But Address: San Francisco, California. the company whose shoyu he sells is not given. Also, p. 108 lists Shinichi Morita (from Yamaguchi prefecture) as a worker 419. Product Name: Maruten Miso. at this shoyu company on Banyan St. Manufacturer’s Name: Amano Miso Seizo-sho (Amano 1955 Polk’s Directory. Address is now 274 Kalihi in Brothers). Honolulu. 1967-68 Directory. Listed as American Hawaiian

Soy Co. Ltd., 274 Kalihi St. Th ey are under the category Date of Introduction: 1929. of “Soy Bean Products”. Th is is the fi rst time this category New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. appears in the Honolulu directories. 1987. Appears in all 1928-29. Mrs. Taka Sasaki Tofu (Mrs. Taka Sasaki, Honolulu directories up to the present. proprietor). 32 S. Kukui, Honolulu. Not listed 1930-31. Note that this later becomes the location for Nihachi Matsushima 421. Product Name: Miso. Tofu in 1931. Manufacturer’s Name: Chonan (Rosaku) Miso Manufacturer. Manufacturer’s Address: 707 Kilauea St., Hilo, Island of 426. Product Name: Tofu. Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Name: Tanaka (Tanekichi) Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1929. Manufacturer’s Address: Mooheau, Hilo, Island of Hawaii. New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and Date of Introduction: 1929. the Territory of Hawaii. 1928-29. p. 594. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 1928-29. Tanekichi Tanaka Tofu (Tanekichi Tanaka, Island of Hawaii p. 2. Ryôsaku Chônan (from Fukushima proprietor). Mooheau, Hilo. Not listed 1934-35. 1936-37 prefecture), koji manufacturer, 707 Kilauea, Hilo, Island of Directory. Listed again. Same name/address. Hawaii. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, Island of Hawaii p. 29. Tanekichi Tanaka (from Fukuoka prefecture), 422. Product Name: Tofu. tofu maker, Furneaux Lane, Box 110, Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Name: Kuwasaki (Mrs. Mitsu) Tofu. Not listed 1937-38 in Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Address: 480 N. Kukui, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. 427. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1929. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamada (Isoji) Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and Manufacturer’s Address: 1069 Kamehameha, Hilo, Island of the Territory of Hawaii. 1928-29. Mrs. Mitsu Kuwasaki, Hawaii. proprietor. Not listed 1924, or 1930-31. Note that this Date of Introduction: 1929. location is next to the future location of Turomatsu Gono New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Tofu in 1931. 1928-29. Isoji Yamada Tofu (Isoji Yamada, proprietor). 1069 Kamehameha, Hilo. 423. Product Name: Tofu. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, Island Manufacturer’s Name: Nakamoto (Kensho) Tofu. of Hawaii p. 33. Isoji Yamada (from Kumamoto prefecture), Manufacturer’s Address: Rear 672 S. King, Honolulu, Oahu, tofu merchant (!), 1130 Kamehameha Ave., Island of Hawaii. Hawaii. Not listed 1937-38 Honolulu City Directory. Date of Introduction: 1929. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 428. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. 1928-29. Kensho Nakamoto Tofu (Kensho Nakamoto, 1929. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American directory. proprietor). Rear 672 S. King, Honolulu. 1930-31. Address No 25]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese American listed as rear 674 S. King, Honolulu. Not listed 1934-35. News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Index of cities. 23 cm. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 125. [Eng; Jap]* Takaaki Nakamoto (from Okinawa prefecture), tofu maker, Address: San Francisco, California. 672 S. King St., Honolulu. 429. Product Name: Tofu. 424. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Matsuda Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Name: Sakai (Tahaji) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 76 Japanese Alley, Sacramento, Manufacturer’s Address: 43 N. Pauahi, Honolulu, Oahu, California. Phone: MAin 8837. Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1930. January. Date of Introduction: 1929. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Directory. 1930. p. 170. Also in 1932, p. 169. Th e phone is 1928-29. Tahaji Sakai Tofu (Tahaji Sakai, proprietor). 43 N now Main 1725-W. Also in 1934, p. 172. Also in 1937, p. 169. Pauahi, Honolulu. Not listed 1930-31. Th e phone is now MAin 8837. Also in 1938, p. 190. Also in 1939, p. 189. Also in 1940, p. 189. Also in 1941, p. 189. 425. Product Name: Tofu. Entry in Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Evacuation-Resettlement Manufacturer’s Name: Sasaki (Mrs. Taka) Tofu. Report. Directory of manufacturers, p. 100 (top right). In Manufacturer’s Address: 32 S. Kukui, Honolulu, Oahu, Japanese: Matsuda Tofu-ya. In English: Matsuda Tofu Co., Hawaii. 1326 4th St., Sacramento, California. Phone: 2-5241.

Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 240. Category: 433. Product Name: Shoyu [Soy Sauce]. “Tofu Factories, Misc. Factories.” Matsuda Tofu-ten, Matsuda Manufacturer’s Name: Fujimoto Miso, Shoyu Seizo-sho Tofu Co., 1326 4th St., Sacramento. Phone: GI 2-5241 (new (Fujimoto Miso & Soy Sauce Manufacturing Co.). address and phone number). Manufacturer’s Address: 238 Jackson St., San Francisco, Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times California. Phone: DOuglas 1216. Directory]. 1952. Under “Factories.” In Japanese: Matsuda Date of Introduction: 1930. Tofu-ya. In English: Matsuda Tofu Co., 1326 4th St. (new New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American address), Sacramento. Phone: GI 2-5241. Directory. 1930. p. A-11 (full page ad. Th e top of this ad is in bold English: “Fujimoto Co. Main offi ce cable 430. Product Name: Tofu. address ‘Fujimoto’ ‘San Francisco.’ Importer. Manufacturer. Manufacturer’s Name: Soga (Tomoyuki) Tofu-ten. Exporter. 238 Jackson St., San Francisco, California.” Th e Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 170, Fowler, California. rest of the ad (75%) is in Japanese: Fujimoto Shokai. Makes Date of Introduction: 1930. January. Kanemasa brand shoyu, miso, koji, and Japanese-style New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American pickles, tsukemono) and p. 18 (directory; new company Directory. 1930. p. 282. No phone number. Note: Th e owner’s name: Fujimoto Miso, Shoyu Seizô-sho, 238 Jackson St., name appears to be Tomoyuki. Also in 1934, p. 241. San Francisco. Phone: DOuglas 1216. Note: Th e company Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 283. Soga has apparently started to make shoyu / soy sauce). In the (Hatsue) Tofu-ten (in Japanese). Soga Tofu Shop, P.O. Box lower right corner of the ad is a capped bottle (it looks like a 170 (in English), Fowler, California. Phone: Not listed. Th is modern 1-liter/quart beer bottle) of something named katsu listing is in the “Residence” section, so the owner’s fi rst name shio-mizu (“energy/active salt water”); it could be nigari. But is Hatsue. why isn’t it named simply “nigari.” And if it is nigari, why Talk with Brad Kubota, owner of Fresno Tofu Co. 1990. isn’t it sold as a solid, which weighs much less and is more Dec. 4. He has heard from Japanese-American old-timers compact? living in Fresno that there were two tofu shops in Fowler Also in 1932 directory, p. 17, but the name has returned before World War II. Fowler is located about 10 miles to Fujimoto Miso Koji Seizô-sho. Same address and phone southeast of Fresno. (Douglas 1216).

431. Product Name: Tofu, Agé. 434. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Asahi Shokai. Manufacturer’s Name: Fujimoto Tofu-ya, Kashima (Room Manufacturer’s Address: 221 S. Clarement St., San Mateo, for Rent). California. Phone: MAteo 1157. Manufacturer’s Address: 639 Main St., Colusa, California. Date of Introduction: 1930. Date of Introduction: 1930. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. 101. A ¼ page ad at the bottom left of Directory. 1930. p. 215. this page states in Japanese: Asahi Shôten. Th ey sell Japanese and Western groceries, fresh fi sh and vegetables; they make 435. Product Name: Tofu. tofu and agé. Owner: Mr. Hiroaki Tsukushi. Also in 1934, Manufacturer’s Name: Fujisan Sengyo Tofu-ten [Fresh Fish p. 102. Phone has changed to 1197. Ad (¼ page), p. 102. All and Tofu Shop]. in Japanese except address. Asahi Shôkai. Direct import. Manufacturer’s Address: 1624 Ave. B, Scottsbluff , Nebraska. Japanese and Western foods and goods, fresh fi sh, shredded Phone: 752. dried bonito fl akes (hana katsuo). Making tofu. Owner: Mr. Date of Introduction: 1930. Yukichi Urabe. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. S-306. Note: Scottsbluff is the largest 432. Product Name: Tofu. city in Scotts Bluff County, in far western Nebraska. Note: Manufacturer’s Name: Endo Ryokan [Japanese-style Inn]. Th is is the earliest known commercial soy product made in Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 91, Guadalupe, California. Nebraska. Phone: 12M. Date of Introduction: 1930. 436. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/10 page) in Th e Manufacturer’s Name: Hamazaka Tofu-ten. Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. S-210. Making and Manufacturer’s Address: 2319 S. Cotner Ave., West Los selling tofu. Owner: Mr. Kinosuke Endo. He also helps Angeles, California. Phone: W.L.A. 33707. people to fi nd jobs free of charge. Note: Guadalupe is in Santa Date of Introduction: 1930. Barbara County, in southern California. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. S-161.

Manufacturer’s Address: 708 Oxnard Blvd., Oxnard, 437. Product Name: Natto. California. Manufacturer’s Name: Higuchi Natto-ten. Date of Introduction: 1930. Manufacturer’s Address: 2318 East 1st St., Los Angeles, New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American California. Phone: ANGelus 8155. Directory. 1930. p. S-191. A 1/10 page ad (p. S-192) states: Date of Introduction: 1930. Kotobuki Yu [Bath House], Mr. Hatsuzo Yoshida, Japanese Ingredients: Incl. whole soybeans, natto starter culture. style bath and selling tofu. Gives the same address. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. S-53. Note: Th is is the 2nd earliest known 443. Product Name: Shoyu [Soy Sauce]. commercial natto made in the United States. Also in 1932, p. Manufacturer’s Name: Kushi Shoyu Seizo-sho. 346 (directory). Manufacturer’s Address: 105 5th Ave., South, Seattle, Washington. Phone: MAin 4585. 438. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1930. Manufacturer’s Name: Hirose Tofu-ten. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 812, Vacaville, California. Directory. 1930. p. S-332. In Japanese: Kushi Shoyu Seizô- Phone: 236. sho. Also in 1932, p. 626. Also in 1934, p. 534. Also in 1937, Date of Introduction: 1930. p. 551 (directory; In Japanese: Kushi Shoyu Seizô Shoten. In New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American English {the address has changed}: “Kushi Bros. [Brothers], Directory. 1930, p. 155. 8150 E. Marginal Way, Seattle. Phone: GL. 1241”). Hokubei Nenkan–Th e North American Times Year Book. 439. Product Name: Miso, Koji. 1936, p. 16. Ad (½ page). Marukushi Jirushi (brand) Shoyu. Manufacturer’s Name: Igarashi Miso, Koji Seizo-sho. Kushi Kyodai Shoyu Seizô-sho [Kushi Brothers Shoyu Mfg. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 254, Loomis, California. Co.]. Offi ce: 602 Main St., Seattle. Phone: Main 4585. Th ey Date of Introduction: 1930. also work with canaries [birds]. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. 199. 444. Product Name: Shoyu [Soy Sauce]. Manufacturer’s Name: Marudai Shoyu Seizo-sho. 440. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 616 N. 6th St., San Jose, California. Manufacturer’s Name: Kitamura Tofu-ya. Phone: BAllard 1463. Manufacturer’s Address: 74 Japanese Alley, Sacramento, Date of Introduction: 1930. California. Phone: MAin 2162-J. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1930. Directory. 1930. p. 116. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. 170. 445. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Miyazaki Tofu-ten. 441. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Rt. A, Box 153, Santa Clara, Manufacturer’s Name: Komatsu Sakana-ten, Tofu. California. Phone: Santa Clara 22-J-1. Manufacturer’s Address: 2416 Grant Ave. (P.O. Box 669), Date of Introduction: 1930. Ogden, Utah. Phone: 1142. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1930. Directory. 1930. p. 111. Also in 1934, p. 112. Address has New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American changed: Rt. 1, Box 602, Santa Clara. Directory. 1930. p. S-288. Note: Th e structure of this company name is very unusual; the word “ten” (shop) is 446. Product Name: Tofu. usually at the end of the name. Also in 1934, p. 490. Address Manufacturer’s Name: Morimune Tofu-ten. (in English) has changed: 2473 Grant Ave. (P.O. Box 669). No Manufacturer’s Address: 138 Main St., Watsonville, phone number. California. Hokubei Nenkan–Th e North American Times Year Book. Date of Introduction: 1930. 1936, p. 289. Komatsu Gyorui oyobi Tofu-ten (Komatsu New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Various Fish and Tofu Shop). 2473 Grant Ave., Itarô Directory. 1925. p. N-127. Name is in Japanese only. Th e Komatsu. person’s given name may be Sôichi. In English: 138 Main St. Phone: 841. Also in 1930 directory, p. 131. Address: 129-A 442. Product Name: Tofu. Main St., Watsonville, California. Also in 1934 directory, p. Manufacturer’s Name: Kotobuki Yu oyobi Tofu-ten [Bath 131. Address has changed: 129-A Main St. No phone number. House and Tofu Shop].

447. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Rt. 2, Box 38-B, Gardena, Manufacturer’s Name: Moriuchi Tofu-sho. California. Phone: 443. Manufacturer’s Address: 1613 Buchanan St., San Francisco, Date of Introduction: 1930. California. Phone: WEst 2157. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1930. Directory. 1930. p. S-127. Also in 1934, p. 360. Name is now New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American written (in Japanese): Okumura Gyoniku [Fish meat] Tofu- Directory. 1930. p. 18. Also in 1932, p. 17. Also in 1934, p. ten. 20; Ad (1/8 page; Tofu, aburaage, konnyaku, Ito-konnyaku). Note: Hayashi Tofu-ten formerly made tofu at this address 454. Product Name: Miso, Koji. and phone number. Manufacturer’s Name: Sacramento Miso, Koji Seizo-sho. Manufacturer’s Address: 215 M St., Sacramento, California. 448. Product Name: Tofu. Phone: MAin 4018-M. Manufacturer’s Name: Murakami Tofu-ten. Date of Introduction: 1930. Manufacturer’s Address: 608 7th St., Modesto, California. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Phone: 894. Directory. 1930. p. 165. Date of Introduction: 1930. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American 455. Product Name: Tofu. Directory. 1930. p. 254. Manufacturer’s Name: Sakai Shoten. Manufacturer’s Address: 641 Villa St., Mountain View, 449. Product Name: Tofu. California. Phone: Mt. View 4221. Manufacturer’s Name: Nakagawa Tofu-ten. Date of Introduction: 1930. Manufacturer’s Address: 111 First St., Hood River, Oregon. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1930. Directory. 1930. p. 109. A 1/8 page ad at the bottom center of New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American this page (all in Japanese) states that Sakai Shôten makes and Directory. 1930. p. S-325. No phone. sells tofu, and also sells groceries. Also in 1934, p. 109. Ad (1/8 page), p. 109. Sells groceries. Also makes and sells tofu. 450. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Nakamura (Seijiro) Tofu Seizo-sho. 456. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 83, Ely, Nevada. Manufacturer’s Name: Sakaji Tofu, Sakana-ten [Tofu and Date of Introduction: 1930. Fish Shop]. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Address: 818 W. Main St., Santa Maria, Directory. 1930. p. S-273. No phone. California. Phone: 483-R. Date of Introduction: 1930. 451. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Name: Ni (?) Tofu Seizo-sho. Directory. 1930. p. S-201. A 1/10 page ad (p. S-202) gives Manufacturer’s Address: 140 W. 1st S. St., Salt Lake City, the same address and phone number. Th e company name is Utah. Phone: WAs 6942. given as Sakaji Tofu, Sengyo-ten [Tofu and Fresh Fish Shop]. Date of Introduction: 1930. Owner: Mr. Shinmatsu Sakaji. Also billiards. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. S-279. 457. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Sakamura (or Samura?) Tofu-ya. 452. Product Name: Miso. Manufacturer’s Address: 1411 4th St., Sacramento, Manufacturer’s Name: Noguchi Miso Seizo. California. Phone: MAin 4432-J. Manufacturer’s Address: 119 Lake St., Salinas, California. Date of Introduction: 1930. Phone: 634. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1930. Directory. 1930. p. 170. Company name is in Japanese: New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Sakamura or Samura. In English: 1411 4th St., Sacramento. Directory. 1930. p. 140. Also in 1934 directory, p. 141. In Phone: Main 4432-J. Also in 1934, p. 172. Name is now Japanese: Noguchi Miso Koji Sei (zô) sho. In English: 119 Sakamura. Lake St. Phone has changed: 834. 458. Product Name: Tofu. 453. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Suehiro Tofu Seizo-sho. Manufacturer’s Name: Okumura Sakana, Niku, Tofu-ten Manufacturer’s Address: 1525½ Geary St., San Francisco, [Fish, Meat & Tofu Co.]. California. Phone: FIllmore 4477.

Date of Introduction: 1930. Manufacturer’s Address: 429½ W. Slausen Ave., Los Angeles, New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American California. Phone: JEff erson 1492. Directory. 1930. p. 18. Also in 1932. p. 17. Note: Murakami Date of Introduction: 1930. Konnyaku, Tofu Seizô-sho formerly made tofu at this New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American address. Directory. 1930. p. S-53.

459. Product Name: Tofu. 465. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Sutaa [Star] Tofu-sho. Manufacturer’s Name: Tsuchiyori Tofu, Sakana-ten [Tofu & Manufacturer’s Address: Rt. 2, Box 505-J, Long Beach, Fish Shop]. California. Manufacturer’s Address: 1547 S. Western Ave., Western City, Date of Introduction: 1930. California. Phone: GArdena 1714. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1930. Directory. 1930. p. S-166. Sutaa Tofu-sho (in characters). No New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American phone. Also 1934, p. 396. In Japanese: Sutaa Tofu-ten (new Directory. 1930. p. S-125. A 1/10 page ad (p. S-128) gives name). the same name, address, and phone number. Owner: Mr. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 403. Sutaa Okizaemon Tsuchiyori. Tofu-ten (in characters), Star Tofu Factory, Rt. 2, Box 505 (in English), Long Beach, California. Phone: MEnlo 471-44. 466. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Tsumura Tofu-ten. 460. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 216 N. Main St., Lodi, California. Manufacturer’s Name: Tacoma Tofu-ten. Phone: 894. Manufacturer’s Address: 411 15th St., Tacoma, Washington. Date of Introduction: 1930. Phone: MAin 5339. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1930. Directory. 1930. p. 249. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. S-216. 467. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Watanabe Tofu-ya. 461. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 2106 L St., Bakersfi eld, California. Manufacturer’s Name: Takeda Tofu-ten. Phone: 1203-R. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 511, Vacaville, California. Date of Introduction: 1930. Phone: 236. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1930. Directory. 1930. p. 300. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930, p. 155. 468. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamamoto Sengyo (Fresh Fish), Tofu. 462. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 185, San Juan Bautista, Manufacturer’s Name: Tofu, Koniboro (?) Ebi Seizo-sho. California. Phone: 28-J. Manufacturer’s Address: 1909 Bush St., San Francisco, Date of Introduction: 1930. California. Phone: FIllmore 2660. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1930. Directory. 1930. p. 129. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. 18. 469. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Yanase Tofu-ya. 463. Product Name: Shoyu [Soy Sauce]. Manufacturer’s Address: 553 N. Mt. Vernon Ave., San Manufacturer’s Name: Toyo Shoyu Kaisha. Bernardino, California. Phone: 245-38. Manufacturer’s Address: 325 W. Monroe St., Chicago, Date of Introduction: 1930. Illinois. Phone: FRanklin 3787. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1930. Directory. 1930. p. S-216. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. S-311. A shoyu maker. 470. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Yoshimura Tofu Seizo-sho. 464. Product Name: Shoyu [Soy Sauce]. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 552, Delano, California. Manufacturer’s Name: Toyo Shoyu Seizo Kabushiki Gaisha Phone: 243. [K.K.]. Date of Introduction: 1930.

New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American 1606-A Geary St. Phone: WEst 3708. Directory. 1930. p. 298. A 1/10 page ad (p. 299, entirely in Entry in Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Evacuation- Resettlement characters) gives the company name as Yoshimura Sengyo Report. Directory of manufacturers, p. 2 (top left ). In narabini Tofu Seizô-sho [Fresh Fish and Tofu Manufacturing Japanese: Azumaya Tofu Seizosho. In English: Azumaya Co.], with the same address and phone number. “We deliver Co.,1606-A Geary St. Phone: JO. 7-0227. tofu and fresh fi sh very fast.” Also in 1934 directory, p. 265. In Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 38. Azumaya Tofu Japanese: Yoshimura Sengyo [Fresh Fish], Tofu-ten. Seizô-sho, Azumaya Co., 1606A Geary St., San Francisco. Phone: JO 7-0227. Ad (1/8 page), p. 38. Mizono brothers. 471. Asahi Co. (Th e). 1930. Direct importer. Selling Japanese Sells aburage, konnyaku, and tofu, wholesale. and Western foods (Ad). In: Th e Japanese American Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times News. 1930. Th e Japanese American Directory (Nichibei Directory]. 1952, p. 16. Under “Food Products; Grocers- Jûshoroku). No. 26. p. S-240. [Jap; Eng] Whsle.” In Japanese: Azumaya Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: • Summary: Ad (¼ page). Th e top ¼ of this ad is in English. Azumaya Co., 1606-A Geary St., San Francisco. Phone: JO Also sells groceries, dry goods, fresh fi sh, meat, tofu, shoes, 7-0227. cosmetics, seeds, fertilizer, Japanese and Western hardware. San Francisco City Directory. 1957. Th is is the earliest Note: Th ere is no indication that Asahi Shôkai makes the tofu listing seen for Azumaya in a Caucasian-published San it sells. Also in 1934, p. 459. Ad (¼ page). Similar to 1930 ad. Francisco City Directory. It read: Azumaya Co. (Geo. and Address: 149 8th St. (at E St.), Brawley, California. Phone: Jack Mizono). Baker. 1602½ Geary. In 1958 the occupation 233. changed to “Bakers, wholesale.” Th e 1960 listing showed a change of address: “Azumaya Co. (Jack, Geo and William I 472. Product Name: Tofu. Mizono). Bakery. 855 Golden Gate Ave.” But the company Manufacturer’s Name: Azumaya Tofu Seizo-sho (Azumaya was not listed under Bakers of Baked Goods. Th e same listing Co.). appeared in 1966. Manufacturer’s Address: 1636 Post St., San Francisco, Hokubei Mainichi California. Phone: WEst 3708. Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Date of Introduction: 1930. January. Page 26. Vertical 1/8 page Ingredients: - ad. Top one-third of ad is Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: - in English: “Azumaya Co., How Stored: Refrigerated. 855 Golden Gate Ave., San New Product–Documentation: Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei Francisco. 567-0227 [phone]. Nippon-jin Kan (Directory of Japanese in the USA). p. In Japanese: Azumaya Shôten, 51. Azumaya Shoten, 1636 Post St., San Francisco. Phone: Mizono brothers. Aburage, West 3708. Th e directory listing (under the category konnyaku, and tofu wholesale. “Miscellaneous foodstuff s / Zatsu shokuryo-hin”) describes (Directory entry, p. 36 under the company as a maker of Japanese pickles (tsukemono “Food Products”). In the seizô-sho). Th e heading of Azumaya’s display ad reads personal / residential directory “Japanese pickles. Vegetables. Foodstuff s. (Tsukemono-rui. (p. 92) is a listing for Mizono, Yasai-rui. Shokuryo-rui). Tofu is not mentioned. Th ree other Isamu. 152 8th St., San companies are listed in this category: Takasugi Tofu Mfg. Co., Francisco. None of the other Ariake Konnyaku Mfg. Co., and Kinmon Kamaboko Mfg. Co. Mizono brothers are listed. Stockton City Directories. 1933-1957. No listing for Takai. 1971. Tofu Shops Azumaya. San Francisco City Directories. 1935-1966. By in America. 95 Boutwell. Uses 1927 these directories were listing Japanese and Chinese 600 kg/day of soybeans. 4 businesses and individuals. employees. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1930. p. 18. Azumaya 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. Tofu Seizô-sho (Azumaya Co.), 1636 Post St. Phone: WEst 95 Boutwell. 3708. Also in 1932, p. 17. Also in 1934, p. 20; Ad (1/8 page, p. Loetterle. 1977. 20. Western and Oriental foods). California Living. April 17. p. Note: Th is is the earliest document seen (July 2011) which 40. Says the company started in states that Azumaya is now making tofu. January 1937. Also in 1936, p. 34. Also in 1937, p. 8. Also in 1938, p. 8. Label. 1978, dated. 4.5 by 4 inches. Red and light blue on Also in 1939, p. 7. Also in 1940. p. 7. Azumaya Tofu Seizô- clear fi lm. Th e product is now called “Tofu. Soy Bean Cake.” sho (Azumaya Co.), 1636 Post St. Phone: WEst 3708. Also “No preservatives added.” A cartoon of a bean says, “Hi! I’m listed in the 1941 Directory (p. 7), but now the address is Li’l Soy.”

Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu foods and goods. Main offi ce cable address: “Fujimoto” San (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Francisco. Address: Factory: 238 Jackson St.; Offi ce: 1640 Post and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 393. Azumaya Inc., 95 St. Both: San Francisco, California. Phone: Factory: DOuglas Boutwell, San Francisco 94124. Phone: 415-467-1955. Owner: 1216. Imports: WEst 0733 & 0734. William or Jack Mizono; one of America’s largest factories; since 1937. 474. Product Name: Tofu. Soya Bluebook. 1980. p. 55. 95 Boutwell St., San Manufacturer’s Name: Iwanaga Ryokan narabini Tofu Francisco, CA 94124; 1981. p. 70. Address: 1575 Burke Ave., [Japanese-style Inn and Tofu Shop]. San Francisco, CA 94124. Manufacturer’s Address: 218 1st St., Marysville, California. Interview with Jack Mizono. 1983. Says the company Phone: 1341. may have started as early as 1920 in San Francisco. Details Date of Introduction: 1930. January. of the founding are unknown, but it had three successive New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/8 page) in Japanese Japanese owners before the third, Mr. Sakamaki, sold it American Directory. 1930. p. 210. 2nd from left . Entirely in to the two Mizono brothers (George and Jack) on 17 Feb. Japanese. 218 1st St., Marysville, California. Phone: 1341. 1937. At that time, the tofu plant was located in a basement Making and selling tofu. Owner: Mr. Torao Iwanaga. Note: at 1636 Post Street between Bush and Laguna Streets. Th e Th is inn, founded in 1925, is under new ownership. Mizonos ran Azumaya as a family business and built it into a thriving enterprise. In the late 1960s they got their tofu 475. Product Name: Tofu. into the fi rst non-Oriental chain of food stores, the Berkeley Manufacturer’s Name: Iwanaga Ryokan narabini Tofu Co-op system. In about 1970 they became the fi rst company [Japanese-style Inn and Tofu]. to have their tofu sold in American supermarket chains, Manufacturer’s Address: 218 1st St., Marysville, California. Safeway (distributed by Japan Foods) and Lucky (shipped Phone: 1341. direct). By the late 1970s they were in Alpha Beta, Albertsons, Date of Introduction: 1930. January. Raley’s, and other major West Coast Chains. Sales of $60,000 New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/8 page) in Th e in 1969 jumped more than 16-fold in the next 8 years to Japanese American News. 1930. p. 210. Making and selling $1,000,000 in 1977, when they were using 1,600 to 2,400 lb/ tofu. Owner: Mr. Torao Iwanaga. day of soybeans to make tofu. In 1980 Azumaya moved into a huge new modern factory. By 1982, the second largest tofu 476. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. maker in the Western world aft er Hinode in Los Angeles, 1930. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American directory. they produced about 110,000 lb/week of tofu. Th e owners No 26]. San Francisco, California: Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. are now listed as Bill or Jack Mizono. FIND/SVP. 1981, May. 765+ p. Index of cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] “Th e tofu market: Overview of a high-potential industry.” p. • Summary: Most entries in this directory give the company 66. Th e company now makes about 15,000 to 17,000 lb/day name in Japanese characters, followed by the address and of tofu. Th ey are America’s second largest manufacturer, aft er phone number (if any) in English. Th ere are many smaller, Hinode. New label. 1986. Regular (Japanese Style) Tofu. vertical ads on the lower half of quite a few directory pages, Interview with George and Bill Mizono. 1989. Oct. 31. usually for a company listed on that page. Most are either During the fi rst year of ownership in 1937 Azumaya made mostly or entirely in Japanese. bulk tofu, yaki-dofu, ganmodoki, and agé. Contents: Ads (full- or half-page, in Japanese and English, Letter from County Clerk of the Superior Court of San p. A-1 to A-34). Table of contents of Japanese businesses in Francisco. 1989. Nov. 19. At the request of William Shurtleff , San Francisco, organized by type of business (p. 3). Directory Maura Ramirez searched for the name Azumaya in the of northern California (in Japanese and English, p. 3-394). indexes of the fi ctitious name records and business license Table of contents of Japanese businesses in Los Angeles, records for the years from 1920 to 1937. No record was organized by type of business (S-19). Directory of Los found. Angeles, Southern California, and all other U.S. states (p. S-1 to S-340). 473. Fujimoto Shokai. Fujimoto Co. 1930. Fujimoto Co.: On the front cover (which is mostly in English and is Importer, manufacturer, exporter (Ad). In: Th e Japanese at the “back” of the book) is an illustration of the dome of American News. 1930. Th e Japanese American Directory city hall. In the center, vertically in Japanese characters is (Nichibei Jûshoroku). No. 26. p. A-11. [Jap; Eng] written Nichibei Shinbun-sha. Th e many directory listings for • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e top ¼ of this ad is in soyfoods manufacturers and ads for soy-related companies English. Fujimoto Shokai’s factory (238 Jackson St.) makes are each given separately. Address: Ellis Street, San Francisco, Kanemasa brand shoyu, miso, koji, and Japanese-style pickles California. (tsukemono). Th e San Francisco Branch (Shiten; 1640 Post St.) also imports and exports Japanese- and Western-style 477. Kairiku Shokai. 1930. Kairiku Co. (Ad). In: Th e Japanese

American News. 1930. Th e Japanese American Directory 482. Product Name: Tofu. (Nichibei Jûshoroku). No. 26. p. A-31. [Jap; Eng] Manufacturer’s Name: Goya (Kashin) Tofu. • Summary: Ad (half page vertical). Th e top ¼ of this ad is Manufacturer’s Address: Wahiawa, Oahu, Hawaii. in English. Th ey deliver fresh fi sh and vegetables very fast. Date of Introduction: 1931. Th ey sell natto–A famous product of Iizaka hot springs New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. (Onsen) [north of Fukushima city, Fukushima prefecture, 1930-31. Kashin Goya Tofu (Goya, proprietor). Wahiawa, northeastern Japan]. Address: 1611 Laguna St., San Francisco, Honolulu. Not listed 1947-48. California. Phone: WEst 4505. 483. Product Name: Tofu. 478. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Isomura (Jukichi) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Kashiwagi Shoten. Manufacturer’s Address: Kilauea, Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 455, Loomis, California. Date of Introduction: 1931. Date of Introduction: 1930. January. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/8 page) in Th e 1930-31. Jukichi Isomura Tofu (Jûkichi Isomura, proprietor). Japanese American News. 1930. p. 200. Selling groceries, Kilauea, Hilo. dry goods, fresh fi sh, making tofu. Owner: Mr. Fukumatsu Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, Island Kashiwagi. of Hawaii p. 9. Jûkichi Isomura (from Yamaguchi prefecture), tofu maker, Box 237, Hilo, Island of Hawaii. 479. Kato Shoten. 1930. Selling all Japanese and Western Not listed 1941-42 in Honolulu City Directory. foods, fresh fi sh, fresh produce, tofu (Ad). In: Th e Japanese American News. 1930. Th e Japanese American Directory 484. Product Name: Tofu. (Nichibei Jûshoroku). No. 26. p. 194. [Jap] Manufacturer’s Name: Matsushima (Nihachi) Tofu. • Summary: Ad (1/8 page). All in Japanese. Owner: Mr. Manufacturer’s Address: 32 S. Kukui, Honolulu, Oahu, Heisaburo Kato. Address: P.O. Box 131, Florin, California. Hawaii. Phone: MAin 7F23. Date of Introduction: 1931. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 480. Maruyama Shoten. 1930. Selling groceries, tofu, fresh 1930-31. Nihachi Matsushima Tofu (Nihachi Matsushima, fi sh (Ad). In: Th e Japanese American News. 1930. Th e proprietor). 32 S Kukui, Honolulu. 1934-35 Directory. Listed Japanese American Directory (Nichibei Jûshoroku). No. 26. as Mrs. Sadayo Matsushima Tofu. Address same. Not listed p. 90. [Jap] 1936-37. Formerly the location of Mrs. Taka Sasaki Tofu in • Summary: Ad (1/8 page). All in Japanese. Since 1909, 1929. various tofu makers have been located at this address in Alameda. Yet there is no indication that Maruyama makes 485. Product Name: Tofu. the tofu that they sell. It may be made in nearby Oakland. Manufacturer’s Name: Nakagawa (Bungo) Tofu. Called Also in 1934, p. 89. Phone is now ALameda 5608-J. Again, Nakagawa Tofu Factory by 1941. 1/8 page ad says they sell tofu, but does not say they make it. Manufacturer’s Address: 1234 Nuuanu Ave., Honolulu, Also sells fresh fi sh. Retail and street vendor. Address: 1620 Oahu, Hawaii. Park St., Alameda, California. Phone: ALameda 3321J. Date of Introduction: 1931. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 481. Product Name: Tofu. 1930-31. Bungo Nakagawa Tofu (Bungo Nakagawa, Manufacturer’s Name: Gono (Tsurumatsu) Tofu. proprietor). 1234 Nuuanu Ave., Honolulu. 1934-35 Directory. Manufacturer’s Address: 478 North Kukui, Honolulu, Oahu, Address given as rear 1232 Nuuanu Ave. 1936-37 Directory. Hawaii. Address given as rear 1234 Nuuanu Ave. 1937-38 Directory. Date of Introduction: 1931. Address given as rear 1232 Nuuanu Ave. New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 117. the Territory of Hawaii. 1930-31. Turomatsu Gono Tofu Bungo Nakagawa (from Fukushima prefecture), tofu maker, (Turomatsu Gono, proprietor). 478 N. Kukui, Honolulu. 1234 Nuuanu Ave., Honolulu. 1934-35 Directory. Listed as Tsurumatsu Gono. 1941-42 Honolulu Directory. Address changed to 1431 Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 7. River. 1947-48 Directory. Name listed as Bunzo Nakagawa. Tsurumatsu Gôno (from Kumamoto prefecture), tofu maker, Also the Nakagawa Tofu Factory is listed at the same address. 488 N Kukui St. (new address), Honolulu. Not listed 1941-42. 1951 Directory. Listed as Mrs. Kin Nakagawa. Address same. Note that his location is right next to the former location of 1955 Directory. Changed to Nakagawa Tofu Factory (Mrs. Mrs. Mitsu Kuasaki Tofu in 1929. Kin Nakagawa, proprietor). Address same. Not listed in 1960- 61.

Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1953. (Revised 26 Directory. 1932. p. 346. July 1955). p. 10. Tofu (Bean curd). Nakagawa Tofu Factory, 1431 River St. 492. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. 1932/01. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American 486. Product Name: Tofu. directory. No 28]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese Manufacturer’s Name: Takushi (Kamada) Tofu. American News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Jan. 1. Index of Manufacturer’s Address: 2131 N. King, Honolulu, Oahu, cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] Hawaii. Residence rear 920 Kopke, Honolulu. • Summary: Soyinfo Center has only the pages mentioning Date of Introduction: 1931. soyfoods in the following cities in California: San Francisco, New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Oakland, San Jose, Sacramento, Fresno, Los Angeles. Plus 1930-31. Kamada Takushi Tofu (Kamada Takushi, Portland (Oregon), and Seattle (Washington). See individual proprietor). 2131 N. King, Honolulu. Residence, rear 920 directory entries and advertisements. Published Jan. 1 by Kopke, Honolulu. Not listed 1934-35. Nichibei Shinbunsha. Address: San Francisco, California.

487. Product Name: Tofu. 493. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Tasaku (Sato) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Nagahama Tofu-ten. Manufacturer’s Address: 1307 River, Honolulu, Oahu, Manufacturer’s Address: 1421 Kern St., Fresno, California. Hawaii. Residence 646 Kamakela Lane, Honolulu. Phone: 2-2960. Date of Introduction: 1931. Date of Introduction: 1932. January. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American 1930-31. Sato Tasaku Tofu (Sato Tasuku, proprietor). 1307 Directory. 1932. p. 257. Note: Kawamoto Tofu-ya made tofu River, Honolulu. Residence, 646 Kamakela Ln., Honolulu. at this address in 1926. We do not yet know what happened Not listed 1934-35. from 1927 to 1931. Also in 1934, p. 239. Also in 1936, p. 286. Also in 1937, p. 248. Also in 1938, p. 272. Also in 1939, p. 488. Product Name: Tofu. 271. Also in 1940, p. 271. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamada (Mrs. Yone) Tofu. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 257. Manufacturer’s Address: Lihiwai, Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Nagahama Tofu-ten (in characters), Nagahama Tofu Shop, Date of Introduction: 1931. 1421 Kern St. (in English), Fresno, California. Phone: 28- New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 232. Residence (p. 275): Z. Nagahama, 1421 Kern St. Note: 1930-31. Mrs. Yone Yamada Tofu (Mrs. Yone Yamada, widow Nakaoka Tofu-ten was at this address in 1930. of Kumajiro, proprietor). Lihiwai, Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Not Talk with Brad Kubota, owner of Fresno Tofu Co. 1990. listed 1934-35. Dec. 4. He has heard from Japanese-American old-timers living in Fresno that there was a tofu shop named Nagahama 489. Product Name: Miso. located in Fresno aft er World War II. Manufacturer’s Name: Yumura (S.) Miso Manufacturer. Letter from A.M. Araki. 1990. Dec. 31. “I came to the Manufacturer’s Address: Mawahi Lane, Hilo, Island of USA in Aug. 1920. At that time in Fresno there were two tofu Hawaii. shops in Japantown: Yokota Tofu-ten, and Nakaoka Tofu-ten. Date of Introduction: 1931. Th e owner of Nakaoka Tofu-ten died in about 1922, so the New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and company was taken over by Mr. Zenkichi Nagahama, who the Territory of Hawaii. 1930-31. p. 709. renamed it Nagahama Tofu-ten, and ran it for about 20 years until 1942.” 490. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. 1931. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American directory. 494. Product Name: Tofu. No 27]. San Francisco, California: Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. Manufacturer’s Name: Sakumura Tofu-ya. 600+ p. Index of cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap]* Manufacturer’s Address: 1411 4th St., Sacramento, Address: Ellis Street, San Francisco, California. California. Phone: Main 4432-J. Date of Introduction: 1932. January. 491. Product Name: Koji. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Name: Asahi Koji Seizo-sho (Asahi Koji Mfg. Directory. 1932, p. 169. Note: In 1920 (p. 158) there was a Co.). company with this same name making tofu at 74 Japanese Manufacturer’s Address: 915 Meridian Ave., S. Pasadena, Alley in Sacramento. Phone: Main 2162-J. It is unclear California. Phone: ELliot 1367. whether there is any relationship between these two Date of Introduction: 1932. January. companies. Also in 1937, p. 173. Also in 1938, p. 190. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American

495. Product Name: Koji, Miso. Address: San Francisco, California. Manufacturer’s Name: Sakura-fu Koji, Miso Seizo-sho (Sacramento Koji & Miso Manufacturing Co.). 499. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 215 M St., Sacramento, California. Manufacturer’s Name: Aramaki Tofu-ten. Phone: Main 5692-W. Manufacturer’s Address: 151 Main St., Watsonville, Date of Introduction: 1932. January. California. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1934. January. Directory. 1932. p. 163. Also in 1934, p. 169. Phone has New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American changed: 5116W. Also in 1936, p. 199. No phone number Directory. 1934. p. 132. Name is in Japanese only. In English: listed. Also in 1937, p. 110, but with slight change in name 151 Main St. No phone number. (Sakura-fu Miso, Koji Seizô-sho). Note: Sakura-fu is the Japanese nickname for 500. Product Name: Aburaage. “Sacramento” (California). Manufacturer’s Name: Hinode Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: 339 7th St., Oakland, California. 496. Product Name: Tofu. Phone: GLencourt 7297. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamasaki Tofu-ya. Date of Introduction: 1934. January. Manufacturer’s Address: 74 Japanese Alley, Sacramento, New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American California. Phone: Main 2162. Directory. 1934. p. 68; Ad (1/8 page), p. 72. All in Japanese. Date of Introduction: 1932. January. Original tofu maker. Tofu, aburaage, ito-konnyaku, and New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American goldfi sh. Directory. 1932. p. 169. Company name is in Japanese: Yamasaki or Yamazaki. In English: 74 Japanese Alley, 501. Product Name: Tofu. Sacramento. Phone: Main 2162. Note: Kitamura Tofu-ya was Manufacturer’s Name: Hokubei Tofu-ya. at this address in 1930. Also in 1934, p. 172. Manufacturer’s Address: 192 Higuera St., San Luis Obispo, Also in 1937, p. 173. Also in 1938, p. 190. California. Phone: 985. Also in 1939, p. 189. Also in 1940, p. 187. Date of Introduction: 1934. January. Also in 1941, p. 189. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1934. p. 409. Company name is in Japanese. 497. Product Name: Tofu. Hokubei can mean either “North America” or “United States Manufacturer’s Name: Yoshizato Tofu-ten. of America.” Address and phone are in English. Manufacturer’s Address: 635 North 6th Street, San Jose, California. 502. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. Date of Introduction: 1932. January. 1934/01. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese directory. No 30]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1932. p. 111. No phone. American News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Jan. 1. Index of Also in 1936, p. 139. Th e phone is now cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] BAllard 7365. Also in 1937, p. 110. Also in • Summary: Published Jan. 1, 1934. Address: San Francisco, 1938, p. 119. Also in 1939, p. 120. Also in California. 1940, p. 117. Shin Sekai-sha. 1940. Zaibei Nippon-jin 503. Product Name: Koji, Miso. Kan (Directory of Japanese in the USA). Manufacturer’s Name: Kawano Shokai (Kawano Co). p. 116-17. In the 1922 directory another Manufacturer’s Address: 215 M St., Sacramento, California. tofu company (the pronunciation of whose Phone: Capital 5116W. named is not known) was listed at this Date of Introduction: 1934. January. address. New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/8 page) in Th e Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. Japanese American Directory. 1934. p. 168. Makes Shira p. 120. Yoshizato Tofu-ten, 635 N. 6th St. shika [White deer] brand koji and miso. Note: Th is company Phone: Ballard 7365. has the same address and phone number as Sakara-fu (Sacramento) Joji, Miso Seizô-sho. See p. 169 (directory). 498. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. 1933. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American directory. 504. Product Name: Tofu. No 29]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Name: Matsuda Tofu-ten (Matsuda Tofu News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Index of cities. 23 cm. Co.). [Eng; Jap]* Manufacturer’s Address: 2844 E. 1st., Los Angeles,

California. Phone: ANgelus 3915. California. Phone: ANgelus 13915. Also in 1941, p. 327 (1/16 Date of Introduction: 1934. January. page ad; Matsuda Tofu-ten. Th ey sell wholesale and retail) New Product–Documentation: Los Angeles City Directories. and p. 328 (directory entry). 1934. K. Matsuda, food products, 2844 E. 1st. Residence is Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 435. Category: 118 S. Savannah. Also in 1934 G.K. Matsuda, a clerk, lives at “Food Products.” Masuda Tofu Seizô-sho, Matsuda Tofu Co., 118 S. Savannah. Note: In 1930, 1932 and 1933 there is no K. 135 N. San Pedro St., Los Angeles. Phone: TU 7518 (New or George Matsuda and nothing under Matsuda at 2844 East address and phone number). 1st or on Savannah. 1935. Saml [Samuel] & Chioko Matsuda, Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times food products, 2844 E. 1st, r. 118 S. Savannah. Directory]. 1952, p. 310. Under “Food Manufacturers.” In Th e Japanese American Directory. 1934. p. 305. Matsuda Japanese: Matsuda Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: Matsuda Tofu Tofu-ten, 2844 E. 1st St., Los Angeles. Phone: ANgelus 3915. Co., 519 E. First St., Los Angeles, California. Phone: MI. Note: Th is is the earliest entry seen (June 2008) for this 2986. important tofu company in the Japanese American Directory. Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 679. Also in 1936. p. 356 Directory entry, under “Food Products Mfg.” In Japanese: (directory) and p. 356 (1/8-page Matsuda Tofu-ten. In English: Matsuda Tofu Co., 600 E. 4th ad; the words “Matsuda Tofu” are St., Los Angeles, Calif. Phone: MA4-2986. Note: In 1970 this written in katakana characters. company is at the same address as Hinode Tofu Co., but the Wholesale and retail {oroshi phone numbers are diff erent. kouri}). Interview with Shoan Yamauchi at Soyfoods Center Also in 1937, p. 320 (1/12 (Lafayette, California). 1982. Aug. 11. Th e company was page ad) and p. 320 (directory). founded in about 1920. Also in 1938, p. 347 (1/12 page ad) and p. 348 (directory). Also in 505. Product Name: Aburaage, Konnyaku, Ito-Konnyaku. 1939, p. 340 (directory). Manufacturer’s Name: Moriuchi Tofu-ten Also in 1940, p. 326 (1/12 Manufacturer’s Address: 1613 Buchanan St., San Francisco, page ad; Matsuda Tofu-ten) and California. Phone: WEst 2157. p. 348 (directory; Date of Introduction: 1934. January. Matsuda Tofu Seizô- New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American sho). Directory. 1934, p. 20; Ad (1/8 page; Tofu, aburaage, Los Angeles konnyaku, ito-konnyaku). City Directory. 1940. No business listing 506. North American Mercantile Co., Inc. (Hokubei Boeki for Matsuda. But Kabushiki-gaisha). 1934. [Export & import company] George & Kioko (Ad). In: Th e Japanese American News. 1934. Th e Japanese Matsuda, and American Directory (Nichibei Jûshoroku). No. 30. p. A-9. Koichi Matsuda [Jap; Eng] (or Watanabe & • Summary: Ad (full page). Japanese American Directory. Matsuda) all reside 1934, p. A-9. Food and grocery wholesale. Yamasa Shoyu. at 118 S. Savannah. Branch at 409 2nd St., Los Angeles. Address: 330-342 Front 1941 listing, no St., San Francisco, California. Phone: Garfi eld 3214. business. But Albert & Kiyoko Matsuda, 507. Product Name: Tofu. and George (a Manufacturer’s Name: Okamoto Tofu-ya. clerk) and Yoshiko Matsuda all reside at 118 S. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 905, Salinas, California. Savannah. 1942 is the fi rst listing to mention Phone: 1719. tofu! Matsudo Tofu Co. (George K. Matsuda, Date of Introduction: 1934. January. Albert K. Matsuda, and Mrs. Fari Watanabe), New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American food products, 2844 E. 1st. Personal listings Directory. 1934. p. 141. Name is in Japanese only. Address for George and Albert confi rm the spelling and phone are in English. “Matsudo” in two places. Th e Japanese American Directory. 1940. 508. Product Name: Tofu. p. 326-27. Listed in the category “Foodstuff Manufacturer’s Name: Okumura Tofu Seizo-sho. Factory.” Matsuda Tofu Seizô-sho (Matsuda Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 116, Stockton, California. Tofu Mfg. Co.), 2844 E. 1st St., Los Angeles, Date of Introduction: 1934. January.

New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1934. p. 395. In Japanese: Okumura Tofu Seizô- Directory. 1934. p. 360. In Japanese: Tagawa Gyoniku, Tofu- sho. In English: P.O. Box 116. No phone number. ten. Address is in English. No phone. Also in 1941. p. 403. Tagawa Tofu Sengyo-ten (in characters). Tagawa Tofu & Fish 509. Product Name: Tofu. (in English). New address: 704 W. Gardena Blvd., Gardena. Manufacturer’s Name: Ota Gyoniku, Tofu-ten [Fish-meat No phone. and Tofu Shop]. Manufacturer’s Address: 550 Main St., El Monte, California. 514. Product Name: Tofu. Phone: 367. Manufacturer’s Name: Takeuchi Tofu-ten. Date of Introduction: 1934. January. Manufacturer’s Address: 728 Ramona St., Palo Alto, New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American California. Phone: 4652. Directory. 1934. p. 409. Company name is in Japanese. Date of Introduction: 1934. January. Address and phone are in English. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1934, p. 107. Name is in Japanese only. Address 510. Product Name: Tofu. and phone number are in English. Phone: 4562. Manufacturer’s Name: Sawada Tofu-ya. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 351, Walnut Grove, 515. Product Name: Tofu. California. Manufacturer’s Name: Tanaka Tofu Seizo-sho (Tanaka Tofu). Date of Introduction: 1934. January. Manufacturer’s Address: 885 3rd Ave., New York City, New New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American York. Phone: Plaza 3-5218. Directory. 1934, p. 209. Company name in Japanese. Address Date of Introduction: 1934. January. in English. No phone number. Ad (1/8 page), p. 212. All in New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Japanese. Sawada Iin [Sawada Birth Clinic]. Japanese and U.S. Directory. 1934, p. 552. In Japanese: Tanaka Tofu Seizô-sho. approved. Tofu maker: Momoyo Sawada [a woman’s name]. In English: 885 3rd Ave., New York City, New York. Phone: P.O. Box 351, No phone number. Plaza 3-5218. Also in 1941, p. 645. No phone prefi xes are given for New 511. Product Name: Tofu. York City. Under “Residence,” the only Tanaka listed in New Manufacturer’s Name: Sengyo (Fresh Fish) oyobi Tofu Seizo- York City (p. 653) is S. Tanaka, 243 E. 58th St., Manhattan. sho. Phone: EL. 5-8163. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 186, San Juan Bautista, Note: New York City’s earliest Japanese tofu maker California. was Tanaka (K.) & Company, 326 Amsterdam Ave. (on Date of Introduction: 1934. January. Manhattan’s west side). We do not know whether or not these New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American two companies are related. Directory. 1934, p. 129. In Japanese: Sengyo oyobi Tofu Seizô-sho. P.O. Box 186, San Juan Bautista. No phone. Note: 516. Product Name: Tofu. Th is company many have purchased a similar company that Manufacturer’s Name: Terasawa Ryokan Sakana-ten existed in this town in 1930. (Japanese-style Inn and Fish Shop). Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 63, Alvarado, California. 512. Product Name: Tofu. Phone: 37. Manufacturer’s Name: Shioyaen Tofu, Sakana-ten (Tofu & Date of Introduction: 1934. January. Fish Shop). New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Address: 15417 S. Western Ave., Gardena, Directory. 1934, p. 96. Name is in Japanese only. Address and California. Phone: 1714. phone number are in English. Phone: 37. Ad (1/8 page) p. 96. Date of Introduction: 1934. January. All in Japanese. Terasawa Sengyo-ten. Fresh fi sh and tofu. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1934. p. 359. In Japanese: Shioyaen Tofu, Sakana- 517. Product Name: Tofu. ten. Address and phone are in English. Manufacturer’s Name: Arakaki (Matsu) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 1030 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu, 513. Product Name: Tofu. Oahu, Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Name: Tagawa Gyoniku, Tofu-ten (Fish-meat Date of Introduction: 1935. and Tofu Shop). New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Address: 704 W. 165th St., Gardena, 1934-35. Matsu Arakaki, proprietor. 1030 Kapahulu Ave., California. Honolulu. Not listed in 1947-48. Hawaiian Japanese Annual Date of Introduction: 1934. January. & Directory. 1936-37, p. 7. Matsu Aragaki (from Okinawa

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 128 prefecture), tofu maker, 1030 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu. Manufacturer’s Name: Kanai (T.) Tofu. Later becomes Kanai Tofu Factory. 518. Product Name: Koji Miso. Manufacturer’s Address: 763 Prison Road, Honolulu, Oahu, Manufacturer’s Name: Asahi-Kooji. Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: 26 Nawahi Lane, Hilo, Island of Date of Introduction: 1935. Hawaii. Phone: 2442. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Date of Introduction: 1935. 1934-35. T. Kanai Tofu (T. Kanai, proprietor). 763 Prison Rd., New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and Honolulu. 1937-38 Directory. Full name given as Teikichi the Territory of Hawaii. 1934-35. p. 516. Asahi-Kooji (Mr. Kanai. Kaku Tatsuo). Kooji Miso and Noodles. Nawahi Lane rear Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 61. Kwong See Wo Hilo. Tel. 2442. P.O. Box 84. He continues Hiroyuki Kanai (from Niigata prefecture), tofu maker, 1268 to be listed until 1938-39. Note: “Kooji Miso” seems to be Fort St. (new address), Honolulu. one product, a kind of miso, probably containing a high Honolulu City Directory. 1947-48. Address changed to proportion of koji. 515 Ward Ave., Honolulu. 1951 Directory. Name changed to Hiroyuki Kanai Tofu (Hiroyuki Kanai, proprietor). Ad 519. Product Name: Tofu. by Kanai Nissei Shokwai in Hui Manaolana. 1951. Japanese Manufacturer’s Name: Awa (Mrs. Matsue) Tofu. Foods: (Tested Recipes). Honolulu, Hawaii. See p. 62. “515 Manufacturer’s Address: Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Ward Street. Phone 55305. Manufacturers of: Calcium tofu. Date of Introduction: 1935. Konnyaku. Aburage. Natto.” New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu 1934-35. Mrs. Matsue Awa, Hilo. 1936-37 Directory. Name (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops listed as Mrs. Matsuyo Awa Tofu. Not listed 1947-48. and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 394. Kanai Tofu Factory, 515 Ward Ave., Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii 96814. Phone: 808-538- 520. Product Name: Tofu. 1305. Owner: Richard or Mark Kaneda. Manufacturer’s Name: Ishisaka (K.) Tofu. Talk with Mark Kaneda. 1984. He says this company Manufacturer’s Address: Honokaa, Island of Hawaii. started in 1923. Talk with Shoan Yamauchi. 1988. Nov. 29. Date of Introduction: 1935. He thinks this is the oldest tofu company in Hawaii. Note: New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. A search of this database shows that there were no soyfoods 1934-35. K. Ishisaka Tofu (K. Ishisaka, proprietor). Honokaa, companies at any address on Prison Road prior to 1934. Island of Hawaii. Not listed 1947-48. 523. Product Name: Tofu. 521. Product Name: Miso. Manufacturer’s Name: Kanematsu (Sato) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Jinzo Fukuda Miso. Later renamed Manufacturer’s Address: 1357 North King, Honolulu, Oahu, Fukuda Miso Factory (Fukuda Koji, Miso Seizo-sho). Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: 395 Buckle Lane (Later: North Date of Introduction: 1935. Vineyard), Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Date of Introduction: 1935. 1934-35. Sato Kanematsu Tofu (Sato Kanematsu, proprietor). New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and 1357 N. King, Honolulu. Not listed 1936-37. the Territory of Hawaii. 1934-35. p. 169. “Fukuda Jonzo Miso, 395 Buckle Lane. Note: Is this the origin of the Fukuda 524. Product Name: Tofu. Miso Factory, which doesn’t seem to be listed in any Hawaii Manufacturer’s Name: Kataoka (Mrs. Tomi) Tofu. directory? Manufacturer’s Address: Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. Date of Introduction: 1935. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Says: New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Island “Fukuda Koji, Miso Seizo-sho was located at N. Vineyaro [sic, Directory. 1934-35. Mrs. Tomi Kataoka Tofu (Mrs. Tomi N. Vineyard], Honolulu.” No year of founding or founder Kataoka, proprietor). Koloa, Kauai. Not listed 1941-42. are given. Wm. Higa. 1980. History of Miso Companies in Hawaii. Mr. Fukuda sold this company in about 1938 to Taro 525. Product Name: Tofu. Higa, who made it (at the same location) into the Yamajyu Manufacturer’s Name: Kikuchi (Ishio) Tofu. Shoyu & Koji Miso Co.; Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book Manufacturer’s Address: 1205 Kinau, Honolulu, Oahu, of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 234. Company started by Mr. Fukuda. No Hawaii. longer in business. Date of Introduction: 1935. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 522. Product Name: Tofu. 1934-35. Ishio Kikuchi Tofu (Ishio Kikuchi, proprietor). 1205

Kinau, Honolulu. proprietor). 4262a Waialae Ave., Honolulu. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 73. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 166. Ishio Kikuchi (from Niigata prefecture), tofu maker, 1205 Sukezô Shindo (from Hiroshima prefecture), tofu maker, Kinau St., Honolulu. 4262-A Waialae, Honolulu. Honolulu City Directory. 1947-48. Address changed to 1947-48 Honolulu City Directory. Listed as Mrs. Riyu 61 N King, Honolulu. 1951 Directory. Name changed to Shindo Tofu, 4230 Waialae Ave., Honolulu. Mrs. Cho Kikuchi Tofu (Mrs. Cho Kikuchi, proprietor). 1953 Directory. Residence given as 1215 Piikoi. 530. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Soga (Mrs. Some) Tofu. 526. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 1307 River, Honolulu, Oahu, Manufacturer’s Name: Kimura (Mrs. Take) Tofu. Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: Kaheka Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, Date of Introduction: 1935. Hawaii. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Date of Introduction: 1935. 1934-35. Mrs. Some Soga Tofu (Mrs. Some Soga, proprietor). New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1307 River, Honolulu. Not listed 1937-38. Note that her 1934-35. Mrs. Take Kimura Tofu (Mrs. Take Kimura, location formerly belonged to Sato Tasaku Tofu. proprietor). Kaheka Lane, Honolulu. 1936-37 Directory. Address changed to 971 Kaheka Lane, Honolulu. Not listed 531. Product Name: Miso. 1941-42. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamada (Shigeo) Miso. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 71. Manufacturer’s Address: Paia, Maui, Hawaii. Shinauemon Kimura (from Yamaguchi prefecture), tofu Date of Introduction: 1935. maker, 973 Kaheka Lane, Honolulu. New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and the Territory of Hawaii. 1934-35. p. 632. Yamada Shigeo 527. Product Name: Tofu. Miso. Paia [Maui]. 1947-48 Directory, p. 392. Honolulu Miso Manufacturer’s Name: Sasaki (Masutaro) Tofu. & Shoyu Factory (Shigeo Yamada). Wholesale Miso & Shoyu. Manufacturer’s Address: 2131 North King, Honolulu, Oahu, 405d Buckle Lane. Tel. 66254. Which see. Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1935. 532. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Name: Yoshizawa (Bunpei) Tofu. 1934-35. Masutaro Sasaki Tofu (Masutaro Sasaki, proprietor). Manufacturer’s Address: Olaa, Island of Hawaii. 2131 N. King, Honolulu. Not listed 1941-42. Date of Introduction: 1935. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 528. Product Name: Tofu. 1934-35. Bunpei Yoshizawa Tofu (Bunpei Yoshizawa, Manufacturer’s Name: Shinozaki (Mrs. Taki) Tofu. proprietor). Olaa. Not listed 1947-48. Manufacturer’s Address: 446 Koula, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. 533. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. Date of Introduction: 1935. 1935. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American directory. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. No 31]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese American 1934-35. Mrs. Taki Shinozaki Tofu (Mrs. Taki Shinozaki, News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). Index of cities. 23 cm. proprietor). 446 Koula, Honolulu. Not listed 1937-38. [Eng; Jap]* Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 167. Address: San Francisco, California. Sanpei Shinozaki (from Kanagawa prefecture), tofu maker, 446 Koula St., Honolulu. 534. Product Name: Tofu. Listed again in Honolulu City 1941-42 as Sampei Manufacturer’s Name: Fukei Tofu Mfg. Shinozaki Tofu (Sampei Shinozaki, proprietor). 448 Koula, Manufacturer’s Address: N.W. Davis (between 3rd and 4th Honolulu. Not listed 1947-48. Ave.), Portland, Oregon. Date of Introduction: 1935? 529. Product Name: Tofu. How Stored: Refrigerated. Manufacturer’s Name: Shinto / Shindo (Mrs. Riyu) Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Ito, Kazuo. 1973. Issei: Manufacturer’s Address: 4262a Waialae Ave., Honolulu, A history of Japanese immigrants in North America. Oahu, Hawaii. Translated by Shinichiro Nakamura and Jean S. Gerard. Date of Introduction: 1935. Seattle, Washington: Executive Committee for Publication New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. of Issei, c/o Japanese Community Service, 1414 S. Weller 1934-35. Mrs. Riyu Shinto Tofu (Mrs. Riyu Shinto, St., Seattle, WA 98144. xxviii + 1016 p. Th e map of the old

Japanese district of Portland, Oregon, at the front of the book San Francisco, Oakland, San Jose, Sacramento, Fresno, Los (unnumbered pages) shows 90 Japanese businesses. “Fukei Angeles. Plus Portland (Oregon), and Seattle (Washington). Tofu Mfg.” is located is on N.W. Davis between 3rd Ave. and See individual directory entries and advertisements. 4th Ave. Mfg. Page 780 states this map is from the 1920s. Published Jan. 1 by Nichibei Shinbunsha. Address: San However a librarian from Portland says this map is from Francisco, California. 1935. 538. Product Name: Tofu. 535. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Murota Tofu Seizo-sho (Murota Tofu Manufacturer’s Name: Taira Tofu Mfg. Factory). Manufacturer’s Address: Market St. (near 15th S.), Tacoma, Manufacturer’s Address: 284 5th Street, Oakland, California. Washington. Phone: TEmplebar 5970. Date of Introduction: 1935? Date of Introduction: 1936. January. New Product–Documentation: Ito, Kazuo. 1973. Issei: New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American A history of Japanese immigrants in North America. Directory. 1936. p. 86. Also in 1937, p. 59. Also in 1938, p. 64. Translated by Shinichiro Nakamura and Jean S. Gerard. Also in 1939, p. 62. Also in 1940, p. 60. Seattle, Washington: Executive Committee for Publication Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 60. Listed of Issei, c/o Japanese Community Service, 1414 S. Weller in the category “Food Products.” Phone number is now St., Seattle, WA 98144. xxviii + 1016 p. Th e map of the old TEmplebar 5974. Japanese district of Tacoma, Washington, at the front of the book (unnumbered pages) shows Taira Tofu Mfg. Page 780 539. Product Name: Tofu. states this map is from the 1920s. However a librarian from Manufacturer’s Name: Nomura Tofu-ten. Portland says this map is from 1935. Manufacturer’s Address: 226 Jackson St., San Jose, California. Date of Introduction: 1936. January. 536. Product Name: Asahi Miso. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Name: Asahi Miso Seizo-sho. Directory. 1936, p. 139. Also in 1937, p. 110. Also in 1938, p. Manufacturer’s Address: 519 East 1st St., Los Angeles, 119. Also in 1939, p. 120. Also in 1940, p. 117. Also in 1941. California. Phone: VAndike 5702. p. 120. Phone still not listed. Date of Introduction: 1936. January. Talk with Kenny Nozaki. 1988. Aug. 25. San Jose Tofu New Product–Documentation: Th e Company was started in 1946 by his uncle, Yoshizo Nozaki, Japanese American Directory. 1936. and a Mr. Taira at the present location. Before them, there p. 356 (1/10-page ad, all in Japanese) was one tofu company run by Japanese Americans, located and p. 374 (directory). Also in 1937, where the Dobashi Market (which started big in 1954) now p. 320 (directory) and p. 320 (1/12 is in San Jose, but they closed before World War II. Talk with page ad). Also in 1938, p. 348. Also in Kenny Nozaki. 1989. Dec. 5. He thinks that this company was 1939, p. 339. only in business for a few years. It was run by elderly people Th e Japanese American Directory. and located on Jackson Street about where the Tsugaru 1940. p. 326-27. Asahi Miso Seizô- restaurant was/is. When World War II started, they quit and sho (in characters), Asahi Miso Mfg. went back to Japan. Co. Listed in the category “Foodstuff Factory.” Also in 1941, p. 328. 540. Product Name: Miso, Koji. Note: Hokubei Miso Seizô-sho Manufacturer’s Name: Tsuruda Goshi-gaisha (Tsuruda was at this address in 1930. Limited Partnership) (Miso, Koji). Manufacturer’s Address: 345 E. Second St., Los Angeles, 537. Japanese American News Inc. California. Phone: MUtual 1057. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. 1936/01. Date of Introduction: 1936. January. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American American directory. No 32]. San Directory. 1936. p. 374 (directory). Note: Th is company Francisco, California: Th e Japanese may be a branch of the Tsuruda Kyodai Goshi-gaisha American News Inc. (Nichibei (Miso, Shoyu) now operating in San Jose at 472 Josefa St. Shinbunsha). Jan. 1. Index of cities. Th e company names are quite similar, yet the Los Angeles 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] company does not use the Maru-sho / Marusho brand (which • Summary: Soyinfo Center has only seems surprising) and does not make shoyu. the pages mentioning soyfoods in the following cities in California: 541. Product Name: Tofu.

Manufacturer’s Name: Umino Tofu Seizo-sho (Umino Tofu Canada. Phone: Doug. 4673 L. Mfg.) Date of Introduction: 1936. June. Manufacturer’s Address: 1613 Buchanan St., San Francisco, New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Nenkan–Th e North California. Phone: WEst 2157. American Times Year Book. 1936, p. 254. Mr. Haruobei (or Date of Introduction: 1936. January. Jirobei?) Miyazaki. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1936. p. 34. Note: Formerly Moriuchi Tofu-ten 545. Product Name: Tofu. made tofu at this address and phone number. Also in 1937. Manufacturer’s Name: Murakami Hatsu Tofu-ten. p. 8 (directory). Also in 1938. p. 8. Also in 1939. p. 7. Also in Manufacturer’s Address: 1662 2nd Ave. W., Vancouver, BC, 1940. p. 7. Umino Tofu Seizô-sho (Umino Tofu Mfg.), 1613 Canada. Phone: Bay. 4575 L. Buchanan St. Owned by Kichizo Umino. Listed under the Date of Introduction: 1936. June. category Food Products Manufacturers. Also in 1941, p. 7. New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Nenkan–Th e North Talk with Jack and George Mizono. 1989. Nov. 1. At American Times Year Book. 1936, p. 254. Mr. Hatsutaro the time that Mr. Mizono bought Azumaya, there was one Murakami. other Japanese tofu company in San Francisco. Mr. Mizono loved tofu and he always used to buy his tofu there before 546. Product Name: Tofu. he bought Azumaya. Th e daughter currently lives in San Manufacturer’s Name: Murakami Tofu-ten. Francisco near Jack, and he sees her once in a while. He does Manufacturer’s Address: 343 5th Ave. W., Vancouver, BC, not know her name or address. Th ey original owners had a Canada. Phone: Fair. 3465 L. very diffi cult time because one daughter was very bright, but Date of Introduction: 1936. June. they had twins that were retarded and they both died right New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Nenkan–Th e aft er the war. Th e father and mother were very hard working North American Times Year Book. 1936, p. 254. Mr. Ikutaro people. Th is company was owned at one time by a Mr. Murakami. Hayashi (George thinks that was his name). She sold it to Mr. Umino, who was a farmer in Pescadero before he moved to 547. Product Name: Star Tofu. San Francisco. Aft er the sale, Mr. Hayashi moved to Stockton. Manufacturer’s Name: Nippon Tofu Seizo-sho (Tofu Mfg. He was a good friend of Saichi Mizono. Co.). Manufacturer’s Address: 614 Main St., Seattle, Washington. 542. Product Name: Tofu. Phone: Elliot 2453. Manufacturer’s Name: Hirota Tofu Seizo-sho (Hirota Tofu Date of Introduction: 1936. June. Mfg. Co.). Ingredients: Soybean, water, bittern or nigari–an extract of Manufacturer’s Address: 140 W. 1st S. St., Salt Lake City, seawater. Utah. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 16 oz. Date of Introduction: 1936. June. How Stored: Refrigerated. New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Nenkan–Th e North New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/14 page) in Hokubei American Times Year Book. 1936. Hirota Tofu Seizô-sho, 140 Nenkan–Th e North American Times Year Book. 1936, p. W. 1st So. St., Salt Lake City. Mr. Choba? (or Nagauma? or 45. Star brand Tofu. Nippon (or Nihon) Tofu Seizô-sho, 614 Osaba? or Takema? or Tatsuma?) Hirota. No phone. Main St., Seattle, Washington. Directory entry, p. 60. Owner: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 607. Hirota Mr. Kakuji Tanaka. Tofu Seizo oyobi Zakka-ten (Hirota Tofu Co. & General Note: Is this Star Tofu in Seattle related to another Star Store). Same Address. Phone: Not listed. Tofu that appeared in 1950 on 608 Weller St., but with a diff erent company name? 543. Product Name: Miso, and Koji. Manufacturer’s Name: Kushi Shoyu Miso, Koji Seizo-sho. 548. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 8150 East Marginal Way, Seattle, Manufacturer’s Name: Shiyatoru Tofu Gaisha (Seattle Tofu Washington. Phone: GL 1241. Co.). Date of Introduction: 1936. June. Manufacturer’s Address: 615 Weller St., Seattle, Washington. New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Nenkan–Th e North Phone: Main 3639. American Times Year Book. 1936, p. 60. Mr. Tanejiro Kushi, Date of Introduction: 1936. June. and Mr. Toyosuke Kushi. New Product–Documentation: Ad (1/14 page) in Hokubei Nenkan–Th e North American Times Year Book. 1936, p. 45. 544. Product Name: Tofu. All in Japanese. Shiyatoru Tofu Gaisha, 615 Weller St., Seattle. Manufacturer’s Name: Miyazaki Tofu-ten. Phone: Main 3939. Manager: Mr. Saichi Ozaki. Accountant: Manufacturer’s Address: 216 Gore Ave., Vancouver, BC, Yoshikichi Nakagawa. Directory entry p. 59.

Th e Japanese American Directory. 1937. p. 551 (directory; from Mr. Fukuda; Oda. 1983. Hawaii Herald. Oct. 7. Letter Sha-shi Tofu Seizô-sho. Seattle Tofu Mfg. Co. (new name), from Takao Nihei. Th is was company was founded in 1936 615 Weller St., Seattle, Washington. Phone: MA 3639). Also and had this name at the time it was founded. It was later in 1938, p. 531. Also in 1939, p. 534. Also in 1940, p. 534. renamed Hawaiian Miso Shoyu Co. Also in 1941. p. 551. Seattle Tofu Seizô-sho (in Japanese), Seattle Tofu Co., 615 Weller St., (in English), Seattle, 552. Product Name: Yamajyu Shoyu. California. Phone: MA 3639. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamajyu Shoyu & Koji Miso Co. Ito, Kazuo. 1973. Issei: A history of Japanese immigrants Manufacturer’s Address: 395 Buckle Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, in North America. Translated by Shinichiro Nakamura and Hawaii. Phone: 68772. Jean S. Gerard. Seattle, Washington: Executive Committee Date of Introduction: 1936. for Publication of Issei, c/o Japanese Community Service, New Product–Documentation: Directory of the City and 1414 S. Weller St., Seattle, WA 98144. xxviii + 1016 p. Th e County of Honolulu. 1938-39. p. 614. Yamajyu Shoyu & Koji map of the old Japanese district of Seattle, Washington, at the Miso Co. (Taro Higa). Soy & Miso Manufacturers. Wholesale front of the book (unnumbered pages) shows Seattle Tofu and retail. 395 Buckle Lane. Tel. 68772. Note: Taro Higa had Mfg. Co. Most of the company is located on the south side the Yamajifu Shoyu & Koji Miso Co. the previous year. Wm. of Weller Street, but a small annex is located across the street Higa. 1980. History of Miso Companies in Hawaii; Oda. on the north side of Weller. Address: S. Weller (between 1983. Hawaii Herald. Oct. 7. Maynard and 6th Ave.). Page 780 states this map is from the 1920s. Th e 1 January 1916 edition the Hokubei Nenkan listed 553. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. all businesses operating in Japanese town in Seattle. Th ey 1937/01. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American included two “tofu-makers” (p. 800). directory. No 33]. San Francisco, California: Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. 585 p. Jan. 1. Index of cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] 549. Product Name: Tofu. • Summary: One of many of these directories owned by the Manufacturer’s Name: Tanaka Tofu-ten. Library of Congress. Address: Ellis Street, San Francisco, Manufacturer’s Address: 451 Powell St., Vancouver, BC, California. Canada. Phone: High 453 R. Date of Introduction: 1936. June. 554. Product Name: Maru-sho brand Shiro-miso, Koji. New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Nenkan–Th e North Manufacturer’s Name: Tsuruda Company (Tsuruda Goshi- American Times Year Book. 1936, p. 255. Mr. Ichijiro Tanaka. gaisha). Note: Another Tanaka Tofu Co. was started in Vancouver at a Manufacturer’s Address: 1535 Laguna St., San Francisco, diff erent address in about 1925. Could the two be related? California. Phone: WE 6800. Date of Introduction: 1937. January. 550. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Name: Wakabayashi Tofu-ten. Directory. 1937. p. 8 (directory; Importers of groceries. Manufacturer’s Address: 439½ Powell St., Vancouver, BC, “Tsuruta Co.”) and add (½-page; top 1/3 of ad is in English: Canada. Phone: High 4067. “Tsuruda Company. Importers, manufacturer & exporters. Date of Introduction: 1936. June. 1535 Laguna St., San Francisco”). Also Tsuruta Goshi Gaisha New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Nenkan–Th e North in San Jose. Miso & Shoyu manufacturer. 472 Josefa St.; American Times Year Book. 1936, p. 255. Mr. Chûgorô (or BAllard 5539. Note: Th is company appeared in San Jose in Tadagorô) Wakabayashi. 1936. Th e ad is divided vertically into halves; one for San Francisco, the other for San Jose. Th e company spells its 551. Product Name: Yamajyu Shiro Koji Miso. name “Tsuruta” in the romanized directory but “Tsuruda” in Manufacturer’s Name: Yamajyu Shoyu & Koji Miso Co. English part of its ad. Same in 1938. p. 6 (directory). Manufacturer’s Address: 395 Buckle Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Phone: 68772. 555. Product Name: Natto. Date of Introduction: 1936. Manufacturer’s Name: Yoneuchi Natto Seizo-sho (Yoneuchi New Product–Documentation: Directory of the City and Natto Mfg. Co.). Renamed Yonai Natto Seizo-sho by 1940. County of Honolulu. 1938-39. p. 614. Yamajyu Shoyu & Koji Manufacturer’s Address: 3480 E. 4th St., Los Angeles, Miso Co. (Taro Higa). Soy & Miso Manufacturers. Wholesale California. Phone: ANgelus 14457. and retail. 395 Buckle Lane. Tel. 68772. Note: Taro Higa had Date of Introduction: 1937. January. the Yamajifu Shoyu & Koji Miso Co. the previous year. Wm. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Higa. 1980. History of Miso Companies in Hawaii; Shurtleff Directory. 1937. p. 320. In Japanese: Natto Seizô-sho & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 234. Th e (Yoneuchi). In English: “Natto (Yoneuchi), 3480 E. 4th St.” company was purchased by George Higa (Bill Higa’s father) Phone: AN. 14457. Note: Th is is the 3rd earliest known

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 133 commercial natto made in the United States. p. 194. Th e authors call this unique product “Deep-fried Also in 1938, p. 348. Th e company name is written only in tofu puff s” and give a description of the process with 2 Japanese (the same as in 1937), not in English. Also in 1939, illustrations. “Firm tofu prepared as for tofu pouches and p. 339. Th e same characters are now written in a diff erent containing an expanding agent, is cut into small bars, each order: Yonai Natto Seizô-sho. In English: “Natto (Yonai)...” about 3 inches long and ½ inch square. Th ese are then Th us the same characters previously pronounced “Yoneuchi” deep fried (using converted doughnut deep-fryers) in 2 are now pronounced “Yonai.” Also in 1940, p. 326-27. Listed temperatures of cottonseed oil (120ºC and 176ºC) for 8 to 10 in the category “Foodstuff Factory.” In characters: Yonai Natto minutes. Th ey are pressed under the hot oil with a pressing Seizô-sho. In English: Yonai Natto Mfg. Co., 3480 E. 4th St., screen and turned with 20-inch-long chopsticks. Th e fi nal Los Angeles, California. Phone: ANgelus 14457. Also in 1941, puff s look like golden brown sausages about 2 inches in p. 328. diameter and 4 inches long. Unlike pouches, however, puff s remain in their expanded state [stay puff ed up] even aft er 556. Product Name: Tofu. they cool; they are hollow inside and somewhat chewy. Manufacturer’s Name: Abe (Junzo) Tofu. Label. 1986, dated. 7 inches square. Blue, reddish brown, Manufacturer’s Address: Haleiwa, P.O. Waialua, Oahu, beige, and white. Azumaya logo with 4 circles over the “Y.” Hawaii. Little bean logo saying “Hi! I’m li’l Protein.” “Cut open and Date of Introduction: 1937. fi ll for terrifi c appetizers, sandwiches and entrees. Cube for New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & salads and soups.” Directory. 1936-37, Oahu p. 38. Junzô Abe (from Fukushima Interview with George Mizono. 1989. Oct. 31. During prefecture), tofu maker, Haleiwa, Waialua P.O., Oahu. the fi rst year of ownership in 1937 Azumaya made bulk tofu, yaki-dofu, ganmodoki, and agé. One of George’s customers 557. Product Name: Agé: Fried Soybean Puff s. was a man who made sushi. He said, “If you can perfect an Manufacturer’s Name: Azumaya. agé that is hollow inside and stays puff ed up, I’ll order it Manufacturer’s Address: 1636 Post St. between Buchanan from you.” George recalls, “So in 1937, for about 6 months, I and Laguna, San Francisco, CA 94124. fooled around trying diff erent things, and then I hit it, quite Date of Introduction: 1937. by accident. Th ey key was in the cooking process. Uncooked Ingredients: Water, soybeans, soy oil, calcium chloride, soybean puree was mixed with the partially cooked puree baking soda (1986). before frying. Also, the timing of the frying was very critical.” Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1.5 oz (42.5 gm) in poly pouch. An expanding agent (probably sodium bicarbonate) was later How Stored: Refrigerated. added. New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 38. Azumaya Tofu Seizô-sho, Azumaya Co., 558. Product Name: Tofu. 1606A Geary St., San Francisco. Phone: JO 7-0227. Ad (1/8 Manufacturer’s Name: Gomoto (Mrs. Michi) Tofu. page), p. 38. Mizono brothers. Sells aburage, konnyaku, and Manufacturer’s Address: 1338 College Walk, Honolulu, tofu, wholesale. Oahu, Hawaii. Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page Date of Introduction: 1937. 26. Vertical 1/8 page ad. Top one-third of ad is in English: New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. “Azumaya Co., 855 Golden Gate Ave., San Francisco. 567- 1936-37. Mrs. Michi Gomoto Tofu (Mrs. Michi Gomoto, 0227 [phone]. In Japanese: Azumaya Shôten, Mizono proprietor). 1338 College Walk, Honolulu. brothers. Aburage, konnyaku, and tofu wholesale. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 191. Th e 23. Kunimoto? Gômoto (from Hiroshima prefecture), tofu authors call this product “Agé Puff s” and state that they are maker, 1338 College Walk, Honolulu. Note: Th e tofu maker’s prepared at most Japanese tofu shops in the United States. fi rst name could also be pronounced Satomoto? or Akimoto? Unlike Japanese agé they stay puff ed up, even aft er they cool. Not listed 1941-42. “Th ree Agé Puff s (weighing a total of 1½ ounces) are oft en sold in plastic bags under such names as Fried Soybean 559. Product Name: Tofu. Cakes, Fried Tofu, or simply Agé. Each puff is meant to be Manufacturer’s Name: Hirakawa (Jugoro) Tofu. slit open at one end. Unlike Japanese agé, these puff s are not Manufacturer’s Address: Lanai City, Lanai Island, Hawaii. easily opened into fl at sheets. Date of Introduction: 1937. Label. Undated. 6.5 inches square. Plastic. Red, yellow, New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual brown and white on clear plastic. Th e product is now called & Directory. 1936-37, Lanai p. 41. Jûgorô Hirakawa (from “Fried Soybean Puff s. Age.” Serving suggestions given. “Hi! Kumamoto prefecture), tofu maker, Lanai City, Lanai Island, I’m li’l soy,” bean logo. Hawaiian Islands. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1979. Tofu & Soymilk Production.

560. Product Name: Tofu. Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Name: Ideguchi (Yasuki) Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1937. Manufacturer’s Address: 1357 North King, Honolulu, Oahu, New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual Hawaii. & Directory. 1936-37, p. 46. Genshirô Kikuchi (from Niigata Date of Introduction: 1937. prefecture), tofu maker, Piikoi & Vineyard Sts., Honolulu. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1936-37. Yasuki Ideguchi Tofu (Yasuki Ideguchi, proprietor). 566. Product Name: Miso, and Koji. 1357 N. King. Manufacturer’s Name: KINA? (Asauki?) Miso & Koji. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 42. Manufacturer’s Address: Box 207, Pakala, Waimea, Kauai, Yasoyoshi Ideguchi (from Kumamoto prefecture), tofu maker, Hawaii. 1347 N. King St. (new address), Honolulu. Not listed 1937- Date of Introduction: 1937. 38. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, Kauai p. 40. Asauki Kina? (from Okinawa 561. Product Name: Tofu. prefecture), miso and koji maker, Box 207, Pakala, Waimea, Manufacturer’s Name: Ikezaki (Moichi) Tofu. Kauai, Hawaiian Islands. Manufacturer’s Address: 32 South Kukui, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. 567. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1937. Manufacturer’s Name: KOHATSU? / ONAMIZU? (Tadashi? New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Musashi?) Tofu. 1936-37. Moichi Ikezaki Tofu (Moichi Ikezaki, proprietor). Manufacturer’s Address: Lawai, Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii. 32 S Kukui, Honolulu. Not listed 1937-38. 1947-48 Directory. Date of Introduction: 1937. Listed as Moichi Ikezaki Tofu, 24 S. Kukui, Honolulu. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual Residence same. Not listed 1955. & Directory. 1936-37, Kauai p. 24. Tadashi? (or Musashi?) KOHATSU? ONAMIZU? (from Okinawa prefecture), tofu 562. Product Name: Tofu. maker, Lawai, Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Name: Ito (Kiyota) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 3 Kaumakapili Lane, Honolulu, 568. Product Name: Tofu. Oahu, Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Name: Kureya? / Goya? (Kishin? Yoshimasa?) Date of Introduction: 1937. Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual Manufacturer’s Address: Wahiawa, Oahu, Hawaii. & Directory. 1936-37, p. 46. Kiyota Ito (from Niigata Date of Introduction: 1937. prefecture), tofu maker, 3 Kaumakapili Lane, Honolulu. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, Oahu p. 29. Kishin? (Yoshimasa?) 563. Product Name: Tofu. KUREYA? / GOYA? (from Okinawa prefecture), tofu maker, Manufacturer’s Name: Iwasaki (Chiyo) Tofu. Wahiawa, Oahu. Manufacturer’s Address: Alupeka, Hanamaulu, Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii. 569. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1937. Manufacturer’s Name: Kwai Ing Hong Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual Manufacturer’s Address: 18 North Kukui, Honolulu, Oahu, & Directory. 1936-37, Kauai p. 12. Chiyo Iwasaki (from Hawaii. Hiroshima prefecture), tofu maker, Alupeka, Hanamaulu, Date of Introduction: 1937. Lihue, Kauai, Hawaiian Islands. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1936-37. Kwai Ing Hong Tofu (Kwai Hong, proprietor). 18 N 564. Product Name: Tofu. Kukui, Honolulu. Not listed 1941-42. Manufacturer’s Name: Kamishita (M.) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Waimea, Kauai, Hawaii. 570. Product Name: Miso, and Koji. Date of Introduction: 1937. Manufacturer’s Name: Mafuji? / Kanto? / Chikafuji? New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Island (Toyosaburo) Miso & Koji. Directory. 1936-37. M. Kamishita Tofu (M. Kamishita, Manufacturer’s Address: Box 43, Hanapepe, Kauai, Hawaii. proprietor). Waimea, Kauai. Not listed 1947-48. Date of Introduction: 1937. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual 565. Product Name: Tofu. & Directory. 1936-37, Kauai p. 32 Toyosaburô Mafuji? (or Manufacturer’s Name: Kikuchi (Genshiro) Tofu. Kanto? Chikafuji?) (from Niigata prefecture), miso and koji Manufacturer’s Address: Piikoi & Vineyard Streets, maker, Box 43, Hanapepe, Kauai, Hawaiian Islands.

571. Product Name: Koji, and Miso. 577. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Mafuji? / Kanto? / Chikafuji? Manufacturer’s Name: Nago? / Meigo? (Sanyoshi? Mira? (Yoshikichi) Koji & Miso. Sanra? Sabuyoshi?) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Box 122, Kapaa, Kauai, Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: Kapaa Heights, Kauai, Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1937. Date of Introduction: 1937. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual Directory. 1936-37, Kauai p. 8. Yoshikichi Mafuji? (or Kanto? & Directory. 1936-37, Kauai p. 10. NAGO? / MEIGO? Chikafuji?) (from Niigata prefecture), koji and miso maker, (Sanyoshi? Mira? Sanra? Sabuyoshi?) (from Okinawa Box 122, Kapaa, Kauai, Hawaiian Islands. prefecture), tofu maker, Kapaa Heights, Kauai, Hawaiian Islands. 572. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Matsushima (Jinpachi) Tofu. 578. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 30 S. Kukui St., Honolulu, Oahu, Manufacturer’s Name: Nakamura (Shokichi) Tofu. Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: Paia Camp, Paia, Maui, Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1937. Date of Introduction: 1937. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 95. Jinpachi Matsushima (from & Directory. 1936-37, Maui p. 38. Shôkichi Nakamura (from Hiroshima prefecture), tofu maker, 30 S. Kukui St., Honolulu. Hiroshima prefecture), tofu maker, Paia Camp, Paia, Maui.

573. Product Name: Tofu. 579. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Matsuura (Tokuo) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Nakasone (Taro) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Waialua, P.O. Waialua, Oahu, Manufacturer’s Address: Makawao, Maui, Hawaii. Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1937. Date of Introduction: 1937. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, Maui p. 47. Tarô Nakasone (from & Directory. 1936-37, Oahu p. 42. Matsuura Tokuo (from Okinawa prefecture), tofu maker, Makawao, Maui. Fukuoka prefecture), tofu maker, Waialua, P.O. Waialua, Oahu. 580. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Nonaka (Mrs. Kikuye) Tofu. 574. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 920 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu, Manufacturer’s Name: Miyadaira (Yoshikityo) Tofu. Oahu, Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: Pearl City, Wahiawa, Oahu, Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1937. Date of Introduction: 1937. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual 1936-37. Mrs. Kikuye Nonaka Tofu (Mrs. Kikuye Nonaka, & Directory. 1936-37, Oahu p. 7. Yoshikiyo Miyadaira (from proprietor). 920 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu. Okinawa prefecture), tofu maker, Pearl City, Wahiawa, Oahu. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 134. Isaburo Nonaka (from Fukuoka prefecture), tofu merchant 575. Product Name: Tofu. (not maker), 920 Kapahulu Rd., Honolulu. Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaka (Mamoru) Tofu. Not listed 1941-42 Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Address: Haleiwa, P.O. Waialua, Oahu, Hawaii. 581. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1937. Manufacturer’s Name: Okuyama (Munenao) Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Manufacturer’s Address: Waikapu, Wailuku, Maui, Hawaii. Directory. 1936-37, Oahu p. 39. Mamoru Morinaka (from ?), Date of Introduction: 1937. tofu maker, Haleiwa, P.O. Waialua, Oahu. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, Maui p. 18. Munenao Okuyama (from 576. Product Name: Tofu. Yamanashi prefecture), tofu maker, Waikapu, Wailuku, Manufacturer’s Name: Muraoka (Sonjuro) Tofu. Maui. On this same page is listed: Iwatarô Ohta / Ota (from Manufacturer’s Address: Kapaa, Kauai, Hawaii. Hiroshima prefecture), tofu and meat merchant, Box 568 Date of Introduction: 1937. Waikapu, Wailuku, Maui. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, Kauai p. 6. Sonjûrô Muraoka (from ?), 582. Product Name: Tofu. tofu maker, Kapaa, Kauai, Hawaiian Islands. Manufacturer’s Name: Omura / Ohmura (Riu) Tofu.

Manufacturer’s Address: Waimea, Kauai, Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1937. Date of Introduction: 1937. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & & Directory. 1936-37, Maui p. 1. Sen Takashima (from Chiba Directory. 1936-37, Kauai p. 38. Riu Omura / Ohmura (from prefecture), tofu maker, Puukoli, Lahaina, Maui. Hiroshima prefecture), tofu maker, Waimea, Kauai, Hawaii. 589. Product Name: Koji. 583. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Takei Koji, Miso Seizo-gyo (Takei Koji Manufacturer’s Name: Shimaura (Eisaku) Tofu. & Miso Manufacturing Co.). Manufacturer’s Address: Wahiawa, Oahu, Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: Box 237, Kahului, Maui, Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1937. Date of Introduction: 1937. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & & Directory. 1936-37, Oahu p. 33. Eisaku Shimaura (from Directory. 1936-37, p. Maui 25. Shûji Takei (from Yamaguchi Kumamoto prefecture), tofu maker, Wahiawa, Oahu. prefecture), Takei Koji, Miso Seizô-gyo [Takei Koji & Miso Manufacturing Co.], Box 237, Kahului, Maui. Note: Th ey now 584. Product Name: Tofu. make and sell koji and have a P.O. Box. Manufacturer’s Name: Shiroyama (Iyose) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Kealakekua, Kona, Island of Hawaii. 590. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1937. Manufacturer’s Name: Tatsuta (Seikichi? Masakichi?) Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual Manufacturer’s Address: Mountain View, Island of Hawaii. & Directory. 1936-37, Kona, Island of Hawaii p. 6. Iyose Date of Introduction: 1937. Shiroyama (from Hiroshima prefecture), tofu maker, New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual Kealakekua, Kona, Island of Hawaii. & Directory. 1936-37, Island of Hawaii p. 86. Seikichi? (or Masakichi?) Tatsuta (from Hiroshima prefecture), tofu 585. Product Name: Tofu. maker, Mountain View, Island of Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Name: SHITANO? / SHITAYA? (Namie) Tofu. 591. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Port Allen, Eleele, Kauai, Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Name: Teruya (Tadao) Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1937. Manufacturer’s Address: Lower Camp 3, Sprecklesville, New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual Maui, Hawaii. & Directory. 1936-37, Kauai p. 31. Namie SHITAHO? / Date of Introduction: 1937. SHITAYA? (from Ehime prefecture), tofu maker, Port Allen, New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Eleele, Kauai, Hawaii. Directory. 1936-37, Maui p. 33. Tadao Teruya (from Okinawa prefecture), bath house and tofu shop (!), Lower Camp 3, 586. Product Name: Tofu. Sprecklesville, Maui. Manufacturer’s Name: TAKAFUJI? / TAKTO? (Heihachiro) Tofu. 592. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Papaikou, Island of Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Name: Uda (Yoshito) Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1937. Manufacturer’s Address: Waikapu, Wailuku, Maui, Hawaii. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual Date of Introduction: 1937. & Directory. 1936-37, Island of Hawaii p. 47. Heihachirô New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual TAKAFUJI? TAKATO? (from Nagano prefecture), tofu & Directory. 1936-37, Maui p. 16 and 20. Yoshito Uda (from maker, Papaikou, Island of Hawaii. Kumamoto prefecture), tofu maker, Waikapu, Wailuku, Maui.

587. Product Name: Tofu. 593. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Takami (Ryuichi) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Uehara (Kiyoyoshi) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Pali Luluku, Oahu, Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1937. Date of Introduction: 1937. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & & Directory. 1936-37, Oahu p. 51. Ryûichi Takami (from Directory. 1936-37, Maui p. 6. Kiyoyoshi Uehara (from Chiba Hiroshima prefecture), tofu maker, Pali Luluku, Oahu. prefecture), tofu maker, Lahaina, Maui.

588. Product Name: Tofu. 594. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Takashima (Sen) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Ushijima (Takehachi) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Puukoli, Lahaina, Maui, Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: Ponahawai St., Box 1247, Hilo,

Island of Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Name: Azumaya Tofu Seizo-sho (Azumaya Date of Introduction: 1937. Co.). New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual Manufacturer’s Address: 1636 Post St. between Buchanan & Directory. 1936-37, Island of Hawaii p. 32. Takehachi and Laguna, San Francisco, CA 94124. Phone: 415-285-8500. Ushijima (from Kumamoto prefecture), tofu maker, Date of Introduction: 1937. January. Ponahawai St., Box 1247, Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Ingredients: Soy beans, water, calcium sulfate. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 21 oz. 595. Product Name: Tofu. How Stored: Refrigerated. Manufacturer’s Name: Uyeda / Ueda (Mrs. Haruko) Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Interview with George and Manufacturer’s Address: Rear 1031 Aala, Honolulu, Oahu, Bill Mizono. 1989. Oct. 31. During the fi rst year of ownership Hawaii. in 1937 Azumaya made bulk tofu, yaki-dofu, ganmodoki, and Date of Introduction: 1937. agé. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Note: Th is is the earliest record seen (July 2011) showing 1936-37. Mrs. Haruko Uyeda Tofu (Mrs. Haruko Uyeda, Azumaya making types of tofu other than regular tofu. proprietor). Rear 1031 Aala, Honolulu. Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Directory. 1936-37, p. 201. 600. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. Kanichi Ueda (from Hiroshima prefecture), tofu maker, 1031 1938. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American directory. Aala St., Honolulu. No 34]. San Francisco, California: Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. 671 Not listed 1941-42 Honolulu City Directory. Note that p. Jan. 1. Index of cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] tofu has been made at this exact address since 1923. Th e • Summary: One of many of these directories owned by the manufacturers were H. Iwanaga Daufu (started 1923), and Library of Congress. Address: Ellis Street, San Francisco, Shoshiro or Shima Kanehori Tofu Manufacturer (1926). She California. later (probably in 1939) sold this company to Mr. and Mrs. Shokin Yamauchi, who renamed it Aala Tofu Co. As of 1988, 601. Product Name: Tofu. Aala Tofu Co. still exists. Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaka (J.M.) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: Waialua, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. 596. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1938. Manufacturer’s Name: Wakahiro (Seiichi) Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Address: 907 Sheridan St., Honolulu, Oahu, 1937-38. J.M. Morinaka Tofu (J.M. Morinaka, proprietor). Hawaii. Waialua, Honolulu. Not listed 1941-42. Date of Introduction: 1937. New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual 602. Product Name: Tofu. & Directory. 1936-37, p. 206. Seiichi Wakahiro (from Manufacturer’s Name: Murai (Yasaburo) Tofu. Yamaguchi prefecture), tofu maker, 907 Sheridan St., Manufacturer’s Address: Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Honolulu. Date of Introduction: 1938. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 597. Product Name: Tofu. 1937-38. Yasaburo Murai Tofu (Yasaburo Murai, proprietor). Manufacturer’s Name: Watanabe (Ushimatsu) Tofu. Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Not listed 1941-42. Manufacturer’s Address: Waipahu, Oahu, Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1937. 603. Product Name: [Korean Soybean Jang / Miso {Tehn- New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Jung Miso, Ten-Gan}]. Directory. 1936-37, Oahu p. 11. Ushimatsu Watanabe (from Foreign Name: Ten Gan. Chiba prefecture), tofu maker, Waipahu, Oahu. Manufacturer’s Name: Park’s Brand Products. Manufacturer’s Address: Vineyard Blvd., Kalihi Valley, Oahu, 598. Product Name: Tofu. Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamamoto (Sadashichi) Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1938. Manufacturer’s Address: Makaweli, Kauai, Hawaii. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of Date of Introduction: 1937. Manufacturers. 1973. p. 11. Park’s Brand Products, Inc., New Product–Documentation: Hawaiian Japanese Annual & Dba Park’s Brand Kim Chee, 145 North King St., Stand 53, Directory. 1936-37, Kauai p. 35. Sadashichi Yamamoto (from Honolulu, HI 96817. Tehn Jung (Mise) [Miso]. Note: Th is Hiroshima prefecture), tofu maker, Makaweli, Kauai, Hawaii. product is called “Mise” in all Hawaii Directories of Food Manufacturers, 1973-78. Th e company was not listed in any 599. Product Name: Tofu, Yaki-dofu (Grilled Tofu), and previous Directory of Manufacturers from 1953 to 1971. Ganmodoki (Fried Tofu Patties). Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1976. Th e Book of Miso. p. 240. 145

North King St., Stand 53, Honolulu, HI 96817. (It was later Houghtailing, Honolulu, Ohau, Hawaii. Phone: 89181. learned that this was not the plant but the main retail outlet). Date of Introduction: 1938. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1979-80. p. 11. Th e New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu address has changed to 1712 Liliha St., Honolulu, HI 96817. and the Territory of Hawaii. 1937-38. p. 592. Yamajifu Soy Th e product is now called “Tehn Jung-Miso.” Th ey also make Factory. (Taro Higa). Soy manufacturers, Wholesale and roasted sesame seeds. Letter from Takao Nihei. 1988. July retail dealers. 1402 N. School, corner Houghtailing. Tel. 19. Says the address is now 1657 Liliha, Honolulu, Oahu, HI 89181. Note: Th e next year Taro Higa started Yamajyu Shoyu 96817. But the Honolulu Phone Directory shows the address & Koji Miso Co. at 395 Buckle Lane. as 3171 Waialae Ave., Honolulu, HI 96816. Phone: 808-733- 1302. 606. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. Talk with Mike Irish, the owner. 1988. July 22. In March 1939. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American directory. 1988 the company moved from the plant at Liliha St. to No 35]. San Francisco, California: Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. 32 3171 Waialae Ave. At the time they bought another kimchi + 658 p. Jan. 1. Index of cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] company, Ham’s kimchi. Th e King Street address was where • Summary: See cover on next page Address: Ellis Street, San the product was and still is sold. Most of it is sold there, with Francisco, California. a little being sold at a couple of other Korean stores. Th e only soyfood product they make is Korean soybean jang (doen 607. Product Name: Tofu. jang); he pronounces it “ten-jang” but spells it Ten-Gan on Manufacturer’s Name: Nippon Tofu-ten (Nippon Tofu Mfg. the label. He also makes kochu jang, the Korean hot chili Co.). paste, with sweet mochi rice as the base; it contains no soy. Manufacturer’s Address: 1012 King, Seattle, Washington. He also makes lots of kimchi. Parks Brand Products was Phone: PR. 8855. founded in 1938 by a lady in a little store on Vineyard Blvd., Date of Introduction: 1939. January. in the Kalihi Valley on Oahu. Her maiden name was Park New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American and her married name was Ko. Her company started out Directory. 1939. p. 531. Also in 1940, p. 545. Also in 1941, p. making kimchi, kochu jang, and soybean jang as their three 561. main lines. She grew her own vegetables to make the kimchi. In 1973 they discontinued kimchi but made kimchi sauce 608. Product Name: Tofu. in bottles. Mrs. Park’s kids took over the company. When Manufacturer’s Name: Tsumura Tofu-ya. they wanted to retire, Mike bought the company from them Manufacturer’s Address: 414 L & M Alley, Sacramento, in 1985. He is half Korean, half Irish. Mrs. Park/Ko died in California. Phone: MAin 1424. 1987. He believes he is the oldest existing miso manufacturer Date of Introduction: 1939. January. in Hawaii. He is the largest Korean food manufacturer in the New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American state and his biggest product is kimchi. He doesn’t sell much Directory. 1939. p. 189. Note: In 1938 Ishihara Tofu-ya was at of his soybean jang, largely because the price is about 2.5 this address. Also in 1940, p. 188. times as much as most Japanese miso or imported Korean Jang. He sells it in small porcelain crocks as a specialty item. 609. Product Name: Tofu. Note: In Honolulu/Oahu City Directories 1941-42, 1947-48, Manufacturer’s Name: Yokota Tofu-ya. 1958-59 there is no listing for Parks Products. Letter from Manufacturer’s Address: 1411 4th St., Sacramento, Michael P. Irish. 1988. Nov. 29. “We no longer produce miso California. Phone: 10117-W. (ten-gan) and I no longer have any old labels or articles about Date of Introduction: 1939. January. the product.” New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1939. p. 189. Also in 1940, p. 187. Also in 1941. p. 604. Product Name: Tofu. 189. Phone number is now CApital 10117. Note: Sakumura Manufacturer’s Name: Shijma (B.U.) Tofu. Tofu-ya was at this address in 1938. Manufacturer’s Address: Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1938. 610. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamauchi (Shoan) Tofu. By 1955 it 1937-38. B.U. Shijma Tofu (B.U. Shijma, proprietor). Hilo, had become Aala Tofu Factory. Island of Hawaii. Not listed 1941-42. Manufacturer’s Address: Rear 1031 Aala, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. 605. Product Name: Shoyu. Date of Introduction: 1939. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamajifu Soy Factory. Apparently New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. changed to Yamajyu Shoyu & Koji Miso Co. the next year. 1941-42. Shoan Yamauchi Tofu. Rear 1031 Aala, Honolulu. Manufacturer’s Address: 1402 N. School, corner Note: Sutro library in San Francisco has the following city

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 140 directories from this period: 1934-39, 1941/42, 1947-49. owner of Fresno Tofu Co. 1990. Nov. 28. He thinks this In the 1947-48 Directory, address is given as 1031c Aala, company became Hashimoto Tofu. It was run by a Mr. Honolulu. 1951 Directory. Name listed as Shojin Yamauchi Tokubo. Tofu. 1953 Directory. Address listed as rear 1031 Aala. 1954 Directory. Address listed as 1031c Aala. Not listed 1955. 613. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. Note that 1031 Aala was the former location for at least 3 1940. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American directory. other tofu manufacturers: H. Iwanaga (founded 1923), Shima No 36]. San Francisco, California: Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha; Th e Kanehori (1926), and Haruko Uyeda (1937). Japanese American News. 688 p. Jan. 1. Index of cities. 23 cm. Talk with Shoan Yamauchi. 1982. June 29. Th e Hinode [Eng; Jap] Tofu Company traces its roots back to Hawaii to the Ueda • Summary: On p. 7, under “Food products manufacturers,” Tofu Co., which may have started as early as 1900? In 1939 are listings (name, address, phone no.) in San Francisco Mr. and Mrs. Shokin Yamauchi bought Ueda Tofu Co. and for: Azumaya Co., Fujimoto Co., Umino Tofu Mfg., and renamed it Aala Tofu Co. Mrs. Yamauchi and her two sons, Norio Co. On the facing page is a full-page ad for Fujimoto Shoan and Shojin, ran the family business successfully. In Co., importers, manufacturers & exporters, 246 Front St., September 1947 Shoan’s brother, Shojin, took over the family San Francisco. Th e company makes miso, koji, and pickled business, Aala Tofu Co., from their father, Shokin, in Hawaii. salmon (sake tsukemono). Th ey sell tofu ingredients Talk with Mr. and Mrs. Shoan Yamauchi in Los Angeles. (presumably soybeans and nigari). Address: 350 Ellis Street, 1988. Oct. 23. Th ey both recall that the business was never San Francisco. named “Shoan Yamauchi Tofu.” It was named Aala Tofu shortly before or aft er the Yamauchi family bought it from 614. Product Name: Tofu. Mrs. Ueda. Manufacturer’s Name: Jitsumyo Meat Co. Manufacturer’s Address: 1408 Kern St., Fresno, California. 611. Product Name: Tofu, Agé, Miso, Natto, Okara. Phone: 22-531. Manufacturer’s Name: Harada Tofu, Zakka-ten. Date of Introduction: 1940. January. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 180, Fowler, California. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1939? Directory. 1240. p. 270. Fish, meat and tofu shop. Jitsumyo New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Meat Co. Directory. 1941. p. 283. Harada (Gonshiro) Tofu-ya (in Japanese). Harada, G., P.O. Box 180 (in English), Fowler, 615. Product Name: Soyco brand Shoyu, and Soya Club California. Phone: Not listed. Th is listing is in the “Residence” brand Shoyu. section, so the owner’s fi rst name is Gonshiro. Manufacturer’s Name: Soya Bean Products Co. (Sooya Bin Talk with Brad Kubota, owner of Fresno Tofu Co. 1990. Prodakutsu Kaisha, Shoyu Jozo-bu). Dec. 4. He has heard from Japanese-American old-timers Manufacturer’s Address: 1235 S. Lorena St., Los Angeles, living in Fresno that there were two tofu shops in Fowler California. Phone: AN. 14076. before World War II. Fowler is located about 10 miles Date of Introduction: 1940. January. southeast of Fresno. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Letter from Masakazu Iwata of Montebello, California. Directory. 1940. p. 326-27 (directory; listed in the category 1995. In 1939 Gonshiro Harada (died 1943), an Issei (fi rst- generation Japanese immigrant to the USA) relocated from Fresno to Fowler, about 10 miles southeast of Fresno. Th ere he and his wife and family (nine children) established the Harada Tofu Co. and manufactured such foods as tofu, kamaboko, agé, miso, natto, okara, and other related items, peddling them to the Japanese farmers in a broad area of Central California. Note: Th is was apparently one of America’s fi rst two commercial natto manufacturers. Th e other was Yonai Natto Seizô-sho in Los Angeles (see p. 328 of this 1941 volume).

612. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Tokubo Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 943 E Street, Fresno, CA 93706. Date of Introduction: 1939? New Product–Documentation: Talk with Brad Kubota,

“Foodstuff Factory.” No hint is given of the type of soyfood products they make) and p. B-7 (1/3 page ad; Th e top 40% is in English: “Soya Bean Products Co., 1235 So. Lorena St., L.A. Phone AN. 14076. Soyco brand. Soya Club brand.” In characters: Beikoku seigan yuitsu no shoyu seizô-sho {Th e only shoyu maker on the West Coast of the United States}). Bimi, jiyo shoyu (Delicious and nutritious shoyu). Sooya Bin Prodakutsu Kaisha, Shoyu Jozo-bu (Soya Bean Products Co., Shoyu Manufacturing Dept.).

616. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Amano Tofu-ten (Amano Tofu-ya). Manufacturer’s Address: 704 21st St., Bakersfi eld, California. Phone: 3610. Date of Introduction: 1941. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 148. Amano Tofu-ten (in characters), Amano Tofu-ya. No phone. Residence (p. 302). S. Amano, 704 21st St.

617. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Asano Norikane Tofu-ten. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 277, Walnut Grove, California. Date of Introduction: 1941. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 230. Asano Norikane Tofu-ten (in characters), J. Norikane. No phone. Note: See entry for 1975– Norikane Tofu Shop.

618. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Fujimoto Sakana, Tofu-ten (Fujimoto Fish, Tofu Market). Manufacturer’s Address: 616 W. Main St., Santa Maria, California. Phone: 968. Date of Introduction: 1941. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Japanese-style pickles (tsukemono). Th ey sell raw materials Directory. 1941. p. 500. On this same page is a 1/16th page ad for making tofu (presumably whole soybeans and one or for “Fujimoto Fish Market” (in English) and Fujimoto Sengyo more coagulants) and also sake. Address: 246 Front St., San [Fresh Fish], Tofu-ten (in characters). Owner: Yumatsu Francisco, California. Phone: EXbrook 1756. Fujimoto. His residence is given as 818 W. Main St. Note 1. Santa Maria is in southern California, northwest 620. Ishimitsu Shoten. 1941. Ishimitsu (S.) Co. (Ad). In: Th e of Los Angeles, between San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara. Japanese American News Inc. 1941. Th e Japanese American Note 2. We cannot be sure from this entry that Fujimoto Directory (Nichibei Jûshoroku). No. 37. p. A-10 (near front). was a tofu manufacturer (although it probably was). However [Eng; jap] in 1978 there was a tofu manufacturer (of unknown name • Summary: Ad (half page vertical). Th e top ¼ of this ad and address) in Santa Maria. is in English. A direct import and export merchant, they sell grocery and household goods including shoes, plus 619. Fujimoto Shokai. 1941. Fujimoto Co.: Importers, Kikkoman shoyu (the Kikkoman logo is shown), miso and manufacturers & exporters (Ad). In: Th e Japanese American Ajinomoto. Address: 224 Commercial St., San Francisco, News Inc. 1941. Th e Japanese American Directory (Nichibei California. Phone: SUtter 2748. Jûshoroku). No. 37. p. 6. [Eng; jap] • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e top 1/5 of this ad is in 621. Japanese American News Inc. / Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. English. Th ey make Kanemasa brand miso, koji, and 1941. Nichibei jûshoroku [Th e Japanese American directory.

No 37]. San Francisco, California: Th e Japanese American News Inc. (Nichibei Shinbunsha). 720 p. Jan. 1. Index of 622. Product Name: Tofu. cities. 23 cm. [Eng; Jap] Manufacturer’s Name: Kawakita Shoten (Y. Kawkita Co. / • Summary: Contents: Ads (in Japanese and English, p. Kawakita Store). A-1 to A-22). Directory of Japanese embassy, consulates, Manufacturer’s Address: 127-133 Heff ernan, Calexico, and legations in the USA and Latin America (in Japanese California. Phone: 767. and English, p. A-22). Key addresses in Japan (in Japanese, Date of Introduction: 1941. January. p. A-23 to A-27). Index to the 1941 Japanese American New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory, by nation (USA and Latin America), and within Directory. 1941. p. 533. Th e directory entry states: Kawakita nation by state, then by city (p. A-28 to A-31). One-page ad Store, 127 Heff ernan St., Calexico, California. Phone: 768. for Kirin Beer (p. A-32). Note: El Centro is about 90 miles east of San Diego, right on Directory by nation (USA and Latin America), and within the border between the USA and Mexico, between El Centro nation by state, then by city (p. 1 to 686). Th ere are many and Mexicali. smaller ads on the lower half of quite a few directory pages, A 1/6 page ad at the bottom of p. 533 is titled “Y. Kawakita for a company listed on that page. For cities having many Co.” At the top of the ad it states in English: “General Japanese businesses (such as San Francisco and Los Angeles), merchandise, 127-133 Heff ernan Ave., Calexico, California.” a table of contents to the business in that city, organized Below that, in characters, it explains that this Japanese and alphabetically by type of business, is given in Japanese on the Western grocery store, owned by Mr. Yasaburo Kawakita, fi rst page concerning that city (For example, Shokuhin seizô- sells fresh fi sh, aburage, and various types of tofu. sho = food manufacturers). Between pages 303 and 305 are 6 pages of ads (B-1 to B-6) for Japanese American companies 623. Product Name: Tofu. located in Los Angeles. Publisher / publishing information Manufacturer’s Name: Kurihara Tofu-ten (Kurihara Tofu (p. 686). A (in Japanese and English, p. 687-688 + inside rear Co.). cover and rear cover). On the front cover (which is mostly Manufacturer’s Address: 725 Oxnard Blvd., Oxnard, in English and is at the “back” of the book) is an illustration California. of the Golden Gate Bridge, below which are America and Date of Introduction: 1941. January. Japanese fl ags with an illustration of the dome of city hall New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American between them. In the center, vertically in Japanese characters Directory. 1941. p. 485. Kurihara Tofu-ten (in characters), is written Nichibei Shinbun-sha. Kurihara Tofu Co. (in English). No phone. Note: Oxnard is Note 1. Within each city, all businesses are listed under in southern California, west of Los Angeles, between Santa basic bold headings (in both Japanese and English) such Barbara and Th ousand Oaks. as Food Products Manufacturers (where most soyfoods manufacturers are listed), Importers & Exporters, Importers 624. Product Name: Tofu. & Groceries, Brewery, Rice Mill, Farm Produce Buyers, Manufacturer’s Name: Matsubara Sakana Tofu-ten Seeds and Fertilizer Cos., Insurance Agents, etc. For each (Matsubara Fish [& Tofu]). entry / listing is given the company name, address, and Manufacturer’s Address: 550 W. Valley Blvd., El Monte, phone number; the company name is given in both Japanese California. Phone: BUdlong 86367. characters and English (romanized), whereas the address Date of Introduction: 1941. January. and phone number are only in English. Th e last bold heading New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American in each city is Residence; all people of Japanese ancestry are Directory. 1941. p. 476. Matsubara Sakana Tofu-ten (in listed alphabetically by family name. For each person is given characters), Matsubara Fish [& Tofu] (in English). his or her name, address, and phone number. Th e full name is given in Japanese characters; the family name plus the fi rst 625. Product Name: Tofu. letter of the fi rst name is given in English (romanized). Manufacturer’s Name: Morikawa Tofu, Sakana-ten Note 2. For each major city, a table of telephone number (Morikawa Tofu, Fish). prefi xes is given on the fi rst page for that city. For San Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 225, Brawley, California. Francisco, for example: AT = ATwater, BA–Bayview. CH = Date of Introduction: 1941. January. China. Th ese are useful when dialing long distance using New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American an operator. Th e many directory listings for soyfoods Directory. 1941. p. 485. Phone: Not listed. A 1/10 page ad manufacturers and ads for soy-related companies are each (p. S-245, entirely in characters) gives the same address. But given separately. the company name is given as Morikawa Sengyo-ten [Fresh Note: We can fi nd no entries for soyfoods makers in Latin Fish Shop]. Making and selling tofu. Owner: Mr. Seiroku America or other U.S. states. Address: 650 Ellis Street, San Morikawa. Note: Brawley is about 90 miles east of San Diego, Francisco, California. California, and about 10 miles southeast of the lower tip of

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 145 the Salton Sea. are not told what soyfoods they make! Address: Los Angeles, California. Phone: ANgelus 14276. 626. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Okumura Tofu Seizo-sho (Okumura 631. Product Name: Tofu. Tofu Mfg. Co.). Manufacturer’s Name: Star Tofu Seizo-sho (Star Tofu). Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 124, Stanton, California. Manufacturer’s Address: 927 Redondo Beach Blvd., Gardena, Date of Introduction: 1941. January. California. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Date of Introduction: 1941. January. Directory. 1941. p. 485. Okumura Tofu Seizô-sho (in New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American characters), Okumura Tofu Mfg. Co. (in English). No phone. Directory. 1941. p. 403. Star Tofu Seizô-sho (in characters), Note: Stanton is in western Orange County, California, about Star Tofu (in English). No phone. 40 miles southeast of Los Angeles. 632. Product Name: Tofu. 627. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Tanimoto Tofu-ten (Tanimoto Tofu). Manufacturer’s Name: Sasaki Tofu-ten. Manufacturer’s Address: 216 N. Main St., Lodi, California. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 223, Florin, California. Phone: 894. Date of Introduction: 1941. January. Date of Introduction: 1941. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 207. No phone. Directory. 1941. p. 257. Tanimoto Tofu-ten (in characters), Tanimoto Tofu (in English). 628. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Shimizu (Tamegoro) Sakana, Tofu-ten 633. Product Name: Tofu. (Shimizu Fish & Tofu Co.). Manufacturer’s Name: Toya Tofu-ten. Manufacturer’s Address: 2473 Grant Ave., Ogden, Utah. Manufacturer’s Address: 131 Lake St., Salinas, California. Phone: 1783-W. Phone: 3189. Date of Introduction: 1941. January. Date of Introduction: 1941. January. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 614. Directory. 1941. p. 148.

629. Product Name: Tofu. 634. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Shusho Tofu-ten (Shusho Tofu-ya). Manufacturer’s Name: Western Tofu Seizo-sho (Western Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 195, Isleton, California. Tofu Co.). Date of Introduction: 1941. January. Manufacturer’s Address: Rt. 1, Box 315, Gardena, California. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Phone: MEnlo 4-2217. Directory. 1941. p. 233. Shusho Tofu-ten (in characters), Date of Introduction: 1941. January. Shusho Tofu-ya (in English). No phone. New Product–Documentation: Th e Japanese American Directory. 1941. p. 403. 630. Sooya Been Purodakutsu Kaisha (Soya Bean Products Co.). 1941. Shoyu [Soy Sauce]. 1239 So. Lorena St., Los 635. Product Name: Marufuku Miso. Angeles, California. [Jap; Eng] Manufacturer’s Name: American-Hawaiian Soy Company. • Summary: Ad (3/8 page) in Th e Japanese American Manufacturer’s Address: 274 Kalihi St., Honolulu, Oahu, Directory. 1941. p. B-3 (in middle of book, just before Los Hawaii. Phone: 808-841-8435. Angeles directory). Th is company claims to be the only Date of Introduction: 1941. maker of shoyu (soy sauce) on the west coast of the United Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Later sometimes canned. States. Th eir shoyu is tasty and nutritious. Th eir shoyu New Product–Documentation: Ad by American-Hawaiian production department (Shoyu Jozo-bu) makes and sells two Soy Company in Hui Manaolana. 1951. Japanese Foods: brands of shoyu: Soya Club brand and Soyco brand. (Tested Recipes). Honolulu, Hawaii. See p. 23. “Ask for Maru Note: Soya Bean Products is apparently not the only Fuku Brand Soy Bean Miso. 274 Kalihi St. Phone: 846455.” shoyu maker on the west coast, unless Yasuhara Shoyu Mfg. Note: Th is same ad appears on the same page in the 1956 Co., which also makes shoyu in Los Angeles at 219 Jackson edition of this book. St., is their shoyu production department (see p. 328). Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1953. p. 10. Miso Note: Soya Bean Products Co. also has a directory entry (Soy bean paste). American-Hawaiian Soy Company, 274 on p. 328 (under the category “Foodstuff Factory”), at the Kalihi St., “Marufuku.” Honolulu City Directory. 1965- address and phone number shown in the ad above, but we 66. p. 252. American Hawaiian Soy Co., Ltd. is the only

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 146 miso manufacturer listed for this year. Hawaii Directory of • Summary: Project: Minidoka (Gooding). Assembly area: Manufacturers. 1969. p. 16. Same address. Zip code is now Pacifi c International Exposition Ground. Gender: Male. 96817. Race: Japanese. Birth year: 1881 [so he was about age 61]. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. Birth place: Japan, southern region. Year of fi rst arrival in “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” States US: 1905. Arrived where: Oregon. Language: Speak, read and that America, Hawaiian Miso Shoyu Kaisha was founded write Japanese. No. of years schooling in Japan: 8; elementary by Kiko Yogi and Moshu Morita. Brand is Marufuku Miso. school years 1-8. Education degree: None. Total time in Address: 274 Kalihi St. Still in business. Wm. Higa. 1980. Japan: 20 years. No. of times in Japan: 3–not attending History of Miso Companies in Hawaii; Shurtleff & Aoyagi. school. Ages while in Japan: 0-9, 10-19, 20 and over. Alien 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 234, 255. Th e company Registration Number: Has A.R. but not S.S. [Social Security] was founded by George Higa, Seiyu Inamine, Kiko Yogi, Number and has not attended Japanese language school. Moshu Morita. In 1947 George Higa left to form Hawaiian Religion: Not available. Primary occupation: Hotel and Miso & Soy Co. Harry Morita is present owner. Produces restaurant managers. File number: 50310082084. Father’s white miso, sometimes sold in cans, distributed by Mutual birth location: Japan. Spouse: Japanese. Trading Co. in Los Angeles. Note: “Camp Minidoka was located near Hunt, Idaho, 20 miles northeast of Twin Falls. In August 1942 the government 636. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, began transporting Japanese-Americans to the camp via California).1942. Shoyu, rice arrive. 1(4):2. April 22. train. Most Minidoka residents came from Seattle and • Summary: On Sunday morning, 130 sacks of rice and 50 Portland and were given notice only one week before being gallons of shoyu arrived in the camp. Most of it has “already forced to move. Ten thousand people (making Minidoka been distributed to the mess halls.” Idaho’s eighth largest city) were interned in tar-paper Note 1. Manzanar (literally “apple orchard”) was the barracks that had no insulation, running water, or interior name of the Japanese internment / concentration camp in walls, and that were heated by coal-burning stoves. Barbed the Owens Valley, Southern California (about 230 miles wire, guard towers, armed guards, and watch dogs secured northeast of Los Angeles), during World War II. At elevation the 950 acre site” (Source: farrit.lili.org). 4,000 feet, at the base of Mt. Whitney, it was extremely cold and dusty. Manzanar, which opened in March 1942, was the 639. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, fi rst of the ten camps to open. It eventually had a maximum California).1942. Shoyu dispute truce declared. 2(27):1. Sept. population of 10,046. Each of the camps was intended to be 21. self-suffi cient. • Summary: “An amicable settlement was fi nally eff ected Note 2. Th e Manzanar Free Press, the “Offi cial publication late last week by the residents of Block 1 and the production of the Manzanar Relocation Center,” was run entirely by division over the placing of the ‘shoyu’ and ‘miso’ Japanese in the camp. By Nov. 1943 it consisted of an editorial manufacturing equipment in the block’s laundry room.” staff (4 members), reporting staff (8), typists (2), Japanese section (7), and an advertising department (3). It was 640. Minidoka Irrigator (Minidoka Internment Center, Hunt, published every Wednesday and Saturday and distributed Idaho).1942. Shoyu retails at $4 a gallon in Salt Lake. 1(4):4. without cost to every apartment. “Subscription rates: 5 cents Sept. 25. per copy; 45 cents per month, $4.75 per year. Editorial offi ce, • Summary: “A Salt Lake City Japanese merchant is asking $8 1-1-2.” for a two-gallon can of ‘shoyu’ sauce and getting it, George S. Note 3. Th is is the earliest document seen (July 2011) Kashiwagi told friends this week following his return from concerning Japanese in the United States in internment / Salt Lake City [Utah] Monday.” relocation camps during World War II. “Th e supply of Japanese foodstuff s has dwindled to almost Note 4. Th is is the earliest document seen (July 2011) nothing, Kashiwagi said, because inter-mountain Japanese concerning soy sauce such camps. merchants have sold their stock to various relocation centers.”

637. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, 641. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, California).1942. To make shoyu here. 1(15):1. May 23. Arizona).1942. Daily output of 500 tofu planned for Poston • Summary: “To replenish stocks of shoyu and miso III. 4(32):1. Oct. 2. formerly purchased from Japanese merchants, the Manzanar • Summary: Five hundred tofu a day for the tables of Poston production offi ce is now planning to manufacture these food III dining halls will soon become an actuality, it was declared items here.” yesterday by the food industry, Sim Togaseki, who revealed that half of warehouse 320 will be occupied as a production 638. Japanese Americans relocated during World War II: plant for this Japanese food under the management of Ray Saizo Ohta. 1942. Hara.

“Th e large scope of this undertaking alone was indicated 643. Poston Press Bulletin (Poston Internment Center, by the quantity of material to be used, which included 500 Arizona).1942. Tofu equipment arrives for Poston III. 5(6):1. gallons of water daily. Oct. 13. “Th e tofu production, however, is but the fi rst step in • Summary: “Arrival of tofu manufacturing equipment early the industrial production of various Japanese foodstuff s. On last week signalizes [sic, signals] a concrete step toward the proposed list were the manufacture of such material as production of Japanese subsistence goods in Poston III. Th is noodles, shoyu, etc. was accomplished despite the serious situation existing in “An advisory council of experienced business men is way of shortages and priorities in regard to metal equipment working on the industrial project.” of any type. Note: Th e Poston War Relocation Center, located in Yuma “Full cooperation from the administration, maintenance, County (now in La Paz County) of southwestern Arizona, construction and supplies departments is going to make this was the largest (in terms of area) of the ten American project possible. Barring unforeseen obstacles, production of internment camps operated by the War Relocation Authority tofu should commence by the end of this month. We hope to during World War II. produce enough tofu to supply each mess hall at least once “Th e Center was composed of three separate camps a week. When production is in full swing the project will arranged in a chain from north to south at a distance of three employ ten men. miles from each other. Internees named the camps Roasten, “Th is week should see the arrival of the mango [sic] Toastin, and Dustin, based on their desert locations. Th e beans, basic substance for tofu, and also the butane tank Colorado River was approximately 3 miles (4.8 km) to the which is to supply the fuel. west, outside of the camp perimeter. “Other Japanese foods for production are miso, moyashi, “Poston was built on the Colorado River Indian and noodles.” Reservation, over the objections of the Tribal Council, who refused to be a part of doing to others what had been done 644. Gila News-Courier (Gila River Internment Center, to their tribe. However, offi cials of the Bureau of Indian Phoenix, Arizona).1942. Soy sauce mill at Manzanar. 1(11):3. Aff airs overrode the Council, seeing the opportunity to Oct. 17. bring in improvements and develop agricultural land on the • Summary: “Approximately 5,000 gallons of shoyu per War Department budget and with thousands of ‘volunteers,’ month will be produced in Manzanar [internment camp, which would remain aft er the war and aid the Reservation’s California] according to the Manzanar Free Press of October permanent population. 10. With an estimated capacity of 7,500 gallons, enough to “Th e combined peak population of the Poston camps supply all centers, a superior grade of shoyu is expected, due was 17,814, mostly from Southern California. At the time to the quality of the water.” Poston was the third largest ‘city’ in Arizona. It was built by Del Webb who would later become famous building Sun 645. Poston Press Bulletin (Poston Internment Center, City, Arizona, and other retirement communities” (Source: Arizona).1942. Steps for tofu production near completion. Wikipedia, Poston War Relocation Center, 12 April 2011). 6(17):5. Oct. 24. • Summary: “Preparations for tofu manufacturing moved 642. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, into the fi nal stages at Poston III today with the arrival of California).1942. Shoyu project ready. 2(35):1. Oct. 10. ten sacks of soy beans from Los Angeles. Five of the sacks • Summary: “Manzanar’s fi rst manufacturing project was contained yellow and fi ve contained green soy beans. Tofu all set to go as the shoyu production division reported all makers headed by Ray Hara and including Ted Yamada, Mr. machinery and equipment ready to start production of 5,000 Koga and Mr. Okino examined the beans and commented gallons of this Japanese staple food a month. that they seemed to be of a pretty fi ne grade. “With an estimated capacity of 7,500 gallons, enough to “Commencing this morning the Industrial Staff of Poston supply all centers, the project will employ 4 workers under III assisted the Tofu men to make the brick foundation for the leadership of Foreman Nobutaro Nakamura. the butane burner. Supervising the construction was Mr. T. “Th e temporary factory is located in laundry room 1 Yutani, general research and survey chairman.” where it will share the building with the bean sprout product. Th e shoyu equipment formerly belonged to Nakamura who 646. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, operated a shoyu business in Los Angeles.” California).1942. Gas tanks installed for shoyu factory. “Shigeki Tomita will head the bean sprout production 2(47):1. Nov. 7. which will employ a crew of three.” • Summary: “With plans tentatively set, the production Note: It is not clear whether the bean sprouts are made department announced that all equipment for the gas tanks from mung beans (probably) or soybeans. has been installed for the shoyu factory and the arrival of the bean grits will start off production.

“Th e schedule for the bean sprouts project has been 650. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, changed so that 1500 pounds of moyashi can be distributed California).1942. Shoyu name contest. 2(57):1. Nov. 30. to the mess halls once a week instead of a few pounds two or • Summary: “With so many excellent names submitted three times a week.” for the shoyu naming contest, Justus G. Sato, assistant Note: “Moyashi” means “bean sprouts” in Japanese, superintendent of the manufacturing division, expressed that however it is unclear whether these were sprouted mung the department is experiencing a diffi cult time in selecting beans (probably) or soybeans. the winner. He announced that the outcome of the contest will be announced later.” 647. Rohwer Outpost (Th e) (Rohwer Internment Center, Note: Could the delay have been caused by many Japanese Rohwer, Arkansas).1942. Agriculture program: Soy bean may giving the so-called “shoyu” unfl attering or HVP-type names? be grown on land now being cleared by lumberjacks. 1(6):4. Nov. 14. 651. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, • Summary: An agricultural program for the community was Arizona).1942. Unit II tofu industry delayed by lack of announced today by James F. Rains, Agriculture and Industry construction material. 8(8):7. Dec. 22. Chief. • Summary: “Lack of essential construction material and “Forest land being cleared was not considered suitable for machinery has been retarding the opening of the tofu garden crops. However soy bean will be grown there as an manufacturing business, it was stated yesterday by E. experiment, he indicated.” Sakaguchi and John Nakamura of the Poston II Industries Committee.” 648. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, California).1942. Name for local shoyu sought. 2(52):1. Nov. 652. Granada Pioneer (Camp Amache / Granada Internment 19. Center, Granada, Colorado).1942. Tofu merchant arrives • Summary: “Wanted: A name for Manzanar soy sauce. here. 1(18):3. Dec. 24. “A contest, sponsored by the Manufacturing Division, to • Summary: “George T. Nagamoto of Swink, Colorado, fi nd a trade name is open to all center residents. Th e contest arrived here to renew his contract with this center to supply will close at noon Saturday, Nov. 21. tofu for the next three months. “Th e person submitting the prize-winning name will be “Nagamoto, a pioneer seed merchant, has been doing awarded one case of shoyu (4 gallons), while those submitting business in Swink for many years. At present his business the second and third best names will be given two gallons is limited to wholesale and retail distribution of koji, miso, and one gallon of shoyu respectively.” shoyu, age, and tofu,” Th e names and titles of the 7 judges (both Japanese- and Caucasian Americans) are given. 653. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Haitsuka (Shigeo) Tofu. 649. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, Manufacturer’s Address: 2131 N. King, Honolulu, Oahu, California).1942. Record output of shoyu made. 2(53):1. Nov. Hawaii. 21. Date of Introduction: 1942. • Summary: “In a period of nine days, the shoyu factory New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. produced more than 1500 gallons of sauce. Th e total 1941-42. Shigeo Haitsuka Tofu (Shigeo Haitsuka, proprietor). production capacity for the local factory is 5,000 gallons per 2131 N King, Honolulu. Not listed 1947-48. month.” “Manzanar is the fi rst relocation center to manufacture 654. Product Name: Marumasa Soy Sauce. shoyu. As soon as the production exceeds more than the Manufacturer’s Name: Honolulu Sake Brewery and Ice Co., requirements here, shoyu will be shipped to other relocation Ltd. centers.” Manufacturer’s Address: 2150 Booth Rd., Honolulu, Oahu, Note 1. Th is product, although called “shoyu,” appears to Hawaii. be HVP soy sauce–judging from the ingredients and the time Date of Introduction: 1942. required to make it. Traditional shoyu typically takes at least Ingredients: Water, soy beans, salt, wheat, disodium 6 months to ferment, whereas HVP soy sauce takes only a 5-inosinate, caramel coloring, and sodium benzoate, a few days. preservative. Note 2. Th is is the earliest document seen (July 2011) Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 16 fl uid oz (1 pint), 50.7 fl uid oz that mentions actual large scale production of soyfoods (soy (1 quart 1 pint 2.7 fl uid oz), or 101 fl uid oz (3 quarts 5 fl uid sauce) in any Japanese internment camp during World War oz). II. How Stored: Shelf stable. New Product–Documentation: Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo

Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, Manufacturer’s Name: Kiyonaga (Kumaki) Tofu. miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Shows one label. Marumasa Soy Manufacturer’s Address: 975 Akepo Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, Co. has closed but their brand is being carried on by the Hawaii. Honolulu Sake Brewery and Ice Co. Ltd. Hawaii Herald. 1981. Date of Introduction: 1942. May 15. p. 6-7. “Honolulu sake: Bending with the winds of New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. change.” When World War II started, a law prohibiting the 1941-42. Kumaki Kiyonaga Tofu (Kiyonaga Kumaki, use of rice in making sake was enforced. So the company proprietor). 975 Akepo Lane, Honolulu. Not listed 1947-48. switched to making shoyu. Under the label of Marumasa Soy sauce and later Diamond Shoyu, the locally made products 657. Product Name: Tofu. soon became popular in Hawaii. It was another innovation Manufacturer’s Name: Oshiro (Tokusuke) Tofu. that kept the company alive. Owners include Tajiro, Daizo, Manufacturer’s Address: Hilo, Island of Hawaii. and Shinzaburo Sumida; Label. Received Feb. 1988 from Date of Introduction: 1942. Honolulu Sake Brewery & Ice Co., Ltd. 4.5 x 3.5 inches. Red, New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. black, blue, green, gold, and white. “Choice. New improved. 1941-42. Tokusuke Oshiro Tofu (Tokusuke Oshiro, Natural brewed and aged.” proprietor). Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Not listed 1947-48.

655. Product Name: Tofu. 658. Product Name: Marusho Shoyu. Manufacturer’s Name: Kaku (Tatsuo) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Showa Shoyu Brewing Co. Manufacturer’s Address: Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 246, Glendale, Arizona. Date of Introduction: 1942. Phone: 457. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Date of Introduction: 1942. 1941-42. Tatsuo Kaku Tofu (Tatsuo Kaku, proprietor). Hilo, Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Gallon, quart, and pint bottles. Island of Hawaii. Not listed 1947-48. Hawaii, Maui, Kauai New Product–Documentation: Soybean Digest. 1945. “Grits Island Directory. 1954. Listed as Tatsuo Kaku Tofu, 28 and fl akes... from the world of soy: John Tadano is erecting a Nawahi Lane, Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Not listed 1957. plant for the production of soy sauce in Glendale, Arizona.” Aug. p. 22. Mr. Tadano has had soy sauce on the market 656. Product Name: Tofu. there since 1941. “Capacity of the expanded plant, one of

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 150 the largest in the country, is expected to be 3,500 gallons Aug. 2008) states: Tadanos in the area would have been monthly.” Tadashi (Wife: Michiko), Takeo Frank (Grace), Yoneo George Soybean Blue Book. 1947. p. 73; 1949. p. 103. Th e name is (Rena), John (Mary), and Joe (Kimi)–the fi ve brothers. Th ere now written “Showa Shoyu Brewing Corp.” No hyphen. are 23 cousins from these families. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Talk with Karl Matsushita, Director of Japanese-American Directory]. 1952, p. 451. Under “Glendale, Arizona.” In Library in San Francisco. 1990. May 8. He saw the building Japanese: Showa Shoyu Jôzô Kaisha. In English: Showa of a shoyu factory that used to exist in Glendale, Arizona. He Shoyu, P.O. Box 246, Glendale. Phone: 457. thinks it began before World War II. He does not recall the Chicago Shimpo, Inc. 1958. Chicago Japanese American name. directory. Talk with Julie Havir, reference librarian at Glendale Page 19: An outstanding two-page ad. On the left page Public Branch Library. 2002. Aug. 30. She went to school in a photo shows three sizes (1 gallon, 1 quart, 1 pint) of glass Glendale with many Tadano children. Th e family owned lots bottles of “Marusho Shoyu. Distributor: Modern Food of land in Glendale aft er World War II and was very active Products Co., San Francisco, Los Angeles, Denver. Brewed in agriculture. Her phone: 623-930-3431. Th e Glendale by Showa Shoyu Brewing Corp., Glendale, Arizona.” Th e Historical Society has an excellent collection of older company logo (the character “sho” in a circle) is in the upper telephone directories. She may also be able to get in touch right and lower left corners. On the right page, horizontal with the Tadano family. photos show: (1) An outside, ground-level view of two large, Talk with Mary Tadano (widow of John T. Tadano who side by side, buildings, with a towering smokestack, on founded this company) and Michiko Tadano. 2002. Sept. which is written “Marusho” in English. Th e smaller one on 17. She thinks the company was founded shortly aft er the the right was the soy sauce factory. (2) A long tractor trailer Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor, so in late 1941 or 1942. distribution truck. On the side is written in English “Marusho Letter (e-mail) from Betty Takesuye, John Tadano’s Shoyu” with the company logo between the two words. (3) niece. 2008. Oct. 4. She would guess the company started A man in a warehouse with many cases of Marusho Shoyu selling shoyu in 1942. “It was founded by Takeshi Tadano, stacked high. In a box in the lower right corner is written: John’s father, but due to the language barrier, it probably got “Manufacturers–Distributors. Post Offi ce Box 246, Glendale, started under John Tadano since he acted as president of the Arizona. Telephone 457. John T. Tadano.” company and was an American citizen and fl uent in English.” Glendale-Peoria [Arizona] Telephone Directory. 1954. Note 1. Concerning the date, 1941 or 1942. Soybean “Showa Shoyu Brewing Corp., 1150 East Glendale Ave. John Digest says John Tadano had soy sauce on the market by and Joe Tadano.” 1941. Yet Mary Tadano (John’s widow) says: “Leaving his Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page farm under the supervision of his two grown sons, in about 761. Residential / personal directory for Phoenix, Arizona: mid-1940 he [Takeshi Tadano, John’s father] returned to Tadano, John. 3539 W. Colter Ave. Tadano, Joe. 2207 W. Japan, learned how to make shoyu from a large shoyu Cactus Wren Dr. Tadano, Tadashi. 3632 N. 59th Ave. Tadano, manufacturing company (nobody remembers where), then Yoneo. 2609 N. 59th Ave. Barbara Takesuye (e-mail of 22 aft er about one year, returned to the United States in about September 1941, on the last Japanese ship allowed to reach the United States before the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor. “Arriving in Glendale that fall, he immediately set to work constructing a large wooden building on his farm in which to make shoyu.” Mary recalls that the fi rst shoyu made by the Tadano family was sold in about 1942. E-mail from Betty Takesuye. 2011. July 1. Photos show 8 bottles of Marusho shoyu–with the shoyu in them! “Th ose bottles belonged to my mother. Aft er she passed away, the contents of the house went to my sister Arlene Tadano who lived with my mother (Michiko).” Betty took these photos at Arlene’s home. Note 2. Th is is the earliest known soy product made in Arizona.

659. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp,

• Summary: “Th e much anticipated tofu production for Unit I has reached its stage of reality with the arrival of equipment according to Hank Miwa, project supervisor. “Th e production has been estimated for 700 cakes per day with crew of 13 workers; factory is equipped with 3 caldrons and 2 mill grinders. Due to hard water conditions and chlorination, the department has purchased a water soft ener to insure fi ne quality and texture. Tomoji Wada, formerly of Terminal Island will serve as head technician who, according to information, has been considered as an expert in the production. “Factory is located west of the garnishing factory with a structure 75’ x 26’ which is currently undergoing fi nal touch.”

661. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, Arizona).1943. First tofu produced by Poston industry. 9(10):1. Jan. 19. • Summary: “Fulfi lling a dream since the organizing of the Industrial Department of Poston III, the fi rst tofu was produced yesterday under the supervision of Ray Hara and his staff .”

662. Rohwer Outpost (Th e) (Rohwer Internment Center, California).1943. New implements boost output of local Rohwer, Arkansas).1943. Center to get tofu: Long-awaited shoyu. 3(4):1. Jan. 13. tofu factory will commence operation in November. 3(33):1. • Summary: “Addition of implements for shoyu manufacture Jan. 23. has raised the potential output of the local factory from • Summary: “On about Nov. 15, Center residents will be able 250 gallons per month to 450 gallons per month. Th e time to cut the long-awaited-for tofu to be manufactured at the is near when this camp will be supplying other relocation local Tofu factory in Block 42, announced J. Yamaguchi, who centers with the favorite Japanese sauce without which many is in charge.” dishes would be quite incomplete, said Nobutaro Nakamura, “With a crew of 12, the factory will be managed by foreman of the shoyu and miso manufacturing. Yamaguchi who operated the Lafayette Tofu company in “A picture of the steps in the manufacture of shoyu Stockton, Calif. for 13 years until evacuation. consists of four distinct processes: Two separate boilers, a “Production of miso will be delayed and announcement cooling system, comprising six vats, and a large receptacle will be made when ready, reported G. Miyano who is in called the mixer are the implements required. Boiler No. charge of the Miso factory which will also be in Mess hall 42.” 1 contains soy beans and wheat. Boiler No. 2 contains salt and sugar. Th e output of the two boilers is sent through 663. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, the cooling system to the mixer which with the addition of Arizona).1943. Tofu production to be doubled soon. 9(20):5. Amino Acid fi nishes the product. Feb. 2. “Miso manufacturing advanced to proximity of • Summary: “Th e Unit III tofu production will be production, still requires an answer from Mr. Bennett of the doubled when an additional mixer pot now being built regional offi ce who is in Gila, Ariz., and whose knowledge to in is completed. At present there is only one pot and certain matter is essential to the production of this oriental approximately 200 cakes daily or half of the required cheese.” production can be produced. Note: Th ese implements and the description of the “Last week every Mess hall should have had their fi rst manufacturing steps show clearly that the “shoyu” is actually share of Poston made tofu. unfermented HVP soy sauce–which is considered greatly “Credit should be given to Ray Okamoto, manager of inferior to traditional fermented shoyu by Japanese. the tofu factory and his fi ve assistents [sic, assistants] for the excellent tofu which has been turned out. 660. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, “To make a batch of 35 cakes, two hours of continuous Arizona).1943. Indy. dept. expected tofu production within labor are required.” fortnight. 9(9):3. Jan. 16. Note: Th is is the earliest document seen (July 2011) that mentions actual large scale tofu production in any Japanese

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 152 internment camp during World War II. making ‘tofu’ and ‘shoyu’ for some time.” Note: Th e Gila River camp, located 30 miles southeast of 664. Topaz Times (Topaz Internment Center, Topaz, Phoenix, was located on the Gila River Indian Reservation– Utah).1943. To manufacture soy bean cakes [tofu] for over the strong objections of the reservation’s American Topazans. 2(39):2. Feb. 16. Indian government. Th e camp opened in July 1942 and had a • Summary: “Pursuant to suggestions voiced by a number of maximum population of 13,348. residents that soy bean cake (“tofu”) be included in the diet of the Topazans, it was announced by Brandon Watson, chief 668. Denson Tribune (Jerome Internment Center, Denson, project steward, that 50 (?) tons of soy beans were procured Arkansas).1943. Manufacturing of ‘tofu’ to start here. 1(9):4. for the commissary. Th e Army quartermaster corps has March 30. assured the Project of 40 tons of the highly nutritious beans. • Summary: “Manufacturing of ‘tofu,’ or soy bean cake, and “Ten thousand pounds of soy beans will be allowed each ‘miso, or soy bean curd [sic] is expected to get underway month for the 8,500 people of Topaz as long as the supply within a week. lasts, Watson added.” “Installation of the equipment for the factory in Dining Hall 36 was started last week. 665. Topaz Times (Topaz Internment Center, Topaz, “Th e products will not be for sale. Th ey will be Utah).1943. Topaz kitchen to get tofu. 2(56):2. March 8. manufactured solely for dining hall consumption. • Summary: “Th e steward’s department is at present “Gonshiro Harada, who operated a ‘tofu,’ ‘miso’ and making arrangements for the manufacture of tofu with the ‘shoyu factory prior to evacuation, will head the project. He coöperation [cooperation] of the Public Works department, will be assisted by Mineso Yamagami. it was announced. Equipment for this process will either be “Th e manufacture of ‘shoyu’ or soy bean sauce, in the made here or sent from the coast. factory may also be started in the near future, according to “Plans call for the use of steam from hospital generators,... Dee Jay Hudson, mess management head.” It is anticipated that tofu will be served in all dining halls soon.” 669. Idaho death index, 1911-1951: Saizo Ohta. 1943. Note: Topaz was the name of the Japanese internment • Summary: Death certifi cate number: 133452. Date of death: camp in Utah during World War II. Each of the ten camps 1 April 1943. Place of death: Hunt, Jerome Co., Idaho. Date of was intended to be self-suffi cient. birth: 14 April 1881. Note: Saizo died in Minidoka, in the internment camp in 666. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, Idaho, for West-Coast Japanese during World War II. We are California).1943. Manufacturing and industrial. 3(23):7. not told the cause of death. March 20. • Summary: “’Shoyu,’ or soy sauce, a necessary commodity 670. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, of the Japanese began production in November to supply California).1943. Soap, shoyu sale starts this week. 3(27):4. the center and other centers in the future. Since production April 3. began, 2000 gallons per month has been the total but since • Summary: “A sale of soap and toilet paper at the General January this has been increased to 5,000 gallons. Foreman of Store and rice and ‘shoyu’ (soy bean sauce) at the Canteen in this project is Nobutaro Nakamura.” eff ect this week was announced by Frank Kanichi Kurahashi, Production of bean sprouts [the type of seeds used is assistant manager of the Co-op. not mentioned; probably mung] began in late October. “Although hard to procure, Kurahashi disclosed that the Production now averages 1,600 pounds a week. Th e foreman Co-op managed to secure a limited supply.” is Shigeji Tomita. A project to make “tofu” is being contemplated, with 671. Minidoka Irrigator (Minidoka Internment Center, Hunt, Henry Toda as foreman. Also a project to make “miso.” Idaho).1943. Vital statistics. 3(7):2. April 10. Note: Th is “Special Anniversary Edition,” 18 pages long, • Summary: “Deaths: Ota, Saizo, 62, 35-12-B, April 1.” Note: summarizes the events at the Manzanar center / camp during We could fi nd no obituary for this man who, with his wife, the past year. founded a tofu shop in Portland, Oregon. Such a brief (and therefore cold) mention of a man’s death, without even 667. Gila News-Courier (Gila River Internment Center, the cause given, gives us a deep insight into the harsh and Phoenix, Arizona).1943. Tofu manufacture contemplated unrespectful nature of the “internment” camps. here. 2(35):3. March 23. • Summary: “Equipment to manufacture tofu is being sought 672. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, by the Mess Division, stated Harold E. Keadle, supervisor. Arizona).1943. Production of tofu starts in Unit I. 11(24):1. “It as disclosed that Manzanar and Poston had been April 14.

• Summary: “With successful test runs of tofu manufacturing processes made last Fri. and Sat. in Unit 1, located in the 679. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, Industrial District South of Blk. 61, factory offi cially went California).1943. ‘Tofu’ manufacture given approval. 3(45):3. into production yesterday morning.” June 5. • Summary: “Final approval to manufacture ‘tofu’ (bean 673. Granada Pioneer (Camp Amache / Granada Internment cakes) at this center was received by H.R. Haberle, Center, Granada, Colorado).1943. Poston starts tofu factory. superintendent of Manufacturing. 1(57):3. April 17. “Haberle disclosed that production is pending the arrival • Summary: “Aft er making several test runs of tofu of the grinder, alteration of the building, and installation of manufacturing processes at the tofu factory in Poston, plumbing. Arizona, the Department of Industries in the relocation “Approximately 450 pounds of tofu is estimated to center there has started mass production of the soya bean be put out per day by this project which will be under curd cakes. the supervision of S. Okugawa, formerly of Tomoye Tofu “A crew of 15 men produces tofu, soya bean curd cakes, Company, and Henry Toda and located at Block One Iron and a ton of moyashi (bean sprouts) weekly.” Room.”

674. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, 680. Gila News-Courier (Gila River Internment Center, Arizona).1943. Tofu production. 11(28):4. April 18. Phoenix, Arizona).1943. Tofu for Rivers a possibility. 2(75):1. • Summary: “Estimated monthly production of the Unit II June 24. Tofu factory has been placed at 4,000 cakes.” • Summary: “Th e manufacture of ‘tofu,’ a form of food made Note: “Poston population 17,132–April 14 census fi gure” from soy-bean curd, became a possibility as the project (See page 1 of this issue, top right). advertised this week for a ‘tofu’ manufacturing machine.”

675. Denson Tribune (Jerome Internment Center, Denson, 681. Sakata, Fay. 1943. Center-made tofu wins favor here, Arkansas).1943. Production of tofu in center to start Monday. Denson Tribune (Jerome Internment Center, Denson, 1(16):1. April 23. Arkansas) 1(34):3. June 25. • Summary: “Production of tofu in the Center will start • Summary: “Tofu is made from soy beans by Gonshiro Monday, announced Gonshiro Harada, who is in charge of Harada, a supervisor, and 12 helpers in Dining Hall 36. the project in Dining Hall 36. Daily output is expected to be “Divided into two shift s these 13 men work from 3 to 10 600 soybean cakes. Minezo Yamagami is Harada’s assistant.” a.m. and 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily to prepare this food, so that every dining hall may have it on its menu once a week. 676. Denson Tribune (Jerome Internment Center, Denson, “With all equipment generously off ered by Harada, Arkansas).1943. Tofu on menu. 1(17):8. April 27. production is about 600 cakes daily made from two sacks of • Summary: “Manufacture of tofu began here yesterday under soy beans.” the supervision of Gonshiro Harada. “According to Harada, 600 cakes will be made daily.” 682. Denson Tribune (Jerome Internment Center, Denson, Arkansas).1943. Th ese fellows know their ‘soybeans’ 677. Minidoka Irrigator (Minidoka Internment Center, Hunt, (Illustration with caption). 1(35):3. June 29. Idaho).1943. Mass production of ‘tofu’ begun by Poston • Summary: Th is large illustration shows the inside of the factory. 3(10):2. May 1. tofu shop at the internment camp. Th e lower caption reads: • Summary: “Poston, Arizona–Aft er making several test runs “Th e manufacture of tofu for the Center’s 33 kitchens is of ‘tofu manufacturing processes at the Tofu Factory, the shown in the above sketch by a staff artist [A.K.]. Under Department of Industries here has begun mass production of the direction of Gonshiro Harada, 600 cakes of the soybean soya bean curd cakes.” product are made daily. Th e factory is located in Dining Hall 36. Th irteen men are employed on the project.” 678. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, California).1943. ‘Tofu’ lovers. 3(39):1. May 15. 683. Granada Pioneer (Camp Amache / Granada Internment • Summary: “Th e prospectus to manufacture ‘tofu’ bean Center, Granada, Colorado).1943. Tofu manufacture to get cakes in this center has recently received approval from the underway. 1(82):7. July 14. Washington offi ce, a recent report disclosed. • Summary: “Kenzo Amamoto, 6E-4C, is currently “Productions of this project will proceed as soon as supervising the construction here of equipment to shipments of needed equipment are received. Approximately manufacture tofu. Persons interested in working with 450 pounds of tofu are estimated to be put out per day by this Amamoto are asked to report to him or to the mess division project which will be located at block one.” immediately, announced Project Steward William Wells.”

• Summary: “Tofu, the fi rst to be manufactured and 684. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, distributed here, was distributed and served at the fi rst fi ve California).1943. Manufacture of tofu commences following blocks on Wednesday, the Industrial Division announced.” delay. 3(62):1. Aug. 4. “Alteration of the shoyu plant is now under way and the • Summary: “Commencement of the manufacturing of tofu division hopes to get production started by the end of the (bean cakes) got under way this week at block 1-20 aft er week.” months of delay, according to the Industrial Division.” “Schedule planned: Th e Mess Division announced that a 686. Topaz Times (Topaz Internment Camp, Topaz, schedule has been planned whereby tofu may be distributed Utah).1943. Around the circuit. 4(19):2. Aug. 14. on block by block basis, beginning from block 1, since only • Summary: From Manzanar Free Press [California]. “Aft er about fi ve to six blocks can be served daily. months of delay, manufacturing of tofu (bean cakes) got “Tofu section is headed by S. Okugawa and assisted by under way, according to the industrial division. Henry Toda.” “Also, production on shoyu (bean sauce) got under way “Shoyu production: Production on shoyu (bean sauce) aft er weeks of experimentation and shoyu will be distributed got under way this week aft er weeks of experimentation and to the mess division soon for local consumption.” shoyu will be distributed to the Mess Division by the end of this week for local consumption, it was also reported. 687. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, “Out of fi ve diff erent brands of shoyu, a committee, Arizona).1943. Unit I tofu factory to resume operations. consisting of Project Director Ralph P. Meritt, block leaders 15(3):2. Aug. 15. and mess hall chefs chose brand No. 2. Every brand was • Summary: “Tofu manufacturing in Unit I will resume given a taste and cooking test, the Manufacturing division operations this Monday, according to an announcement from declared.” the Department of Industries. “Output unknown:... Rumors circulating around the “Th e motor which broke down two weeks ago has been center stating that Shoyu Supervisor Nobutaro Nakamura repaired and installed, and the cooking units have been has turned in his resignation has been confi rmed by this reinforced with iron straps and concrete. division. Th e name of the new supervisor has not as yet been “Repairs on the motor were made in the Poston machine disclosed.” shop by evacuee mechanists who cooperated to meet the emergency and made it unnecessary to ship the motor to 685. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, Phoenix for the repairs.” California).1943. Residents taste home-made tofu. 3(63):1. Aug. 7. 688. Denson Tribune (Jerome Internment Center, Denson,

Arkansas).1943. Production of ‘miso’ starts here: ‘Miso shiru’ 4(12):3. Oct. 16. promised. 1(51):6. Aug. 24. • Summary: “Located at 1-20, the shoyu factory under the • Summary: “’Miso shiru’ at least three times a week is temporary supervision of Minoru Takechi, swung into full promised for the residents here this winter as the Center production last week and is producing 1000 gallons monthly, ‘miso’ factory went into production last week in Dining Hall according to the Industrial Division. 30 under the supervision of the Mess division. “Th e delay in production was due to periods devoted “A paste made of ‘koji,’ or fermented steamed rice, and to testing and sampling of various shoyu sauce in order to ground soy beans, the ‘miso’ manufactured here, however, obtain the best grade possible. Th e sauce which was accepted will require at least two months of setting before it can be by the various mess hall chefs now in production is known as used. Formula Two. “In the beginning the output will be around 200 pounds a “At present, both sugar and glucose are being used to day.” make shoyu but glucose is reported to be much better, according to this division’s announcement. Th e factory has 689. Minidoka Irrigator (Minidoka Internment Center, Hunt, two workers at present. Th e two are Minoru Takechi and his Idaho).1943. Plan tofu manufacture. 3(27):1. Aug. 28. son, Harry.” • Summary: “Plans are being formulated for the manufacture of tofu in this center, the steward division disclosed this 695. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, week.” California).1943. Reporters learn process in tofu making tedious. 4(12):4. Oct. 16. 690. Granada Pioneer (Camp Amache / Granada Internment • Summary: “Overcome by curiosity, three members of the Center, Granada, Colorado).1943. Tofu factory near Free Press staff recently visited the tofu factory at 1-20 to completion. 1(96):2. Sept. 1. obtain fi rst-hand information on tofu manufacturing.” • Summary: “Th e center tofu factory is now nearing Th e two supervisors explained that approximately 450 completion, and as soon as needed equipment arrives, tofu tofu cakes are being made daily by the eight split-shift will be manufactured and served in the mess halls, announces workers who begin work as early as 5 a.m. Each cake is 3½ Supervisor Kenzo Aamoto.” by 3½ by 3 inches. “Approximately 22 pounds of Virginia or Carolina grown soy beans are used daily.” 691. Minidoka Irrigator (Minidoka Internment Center, Hunt, Th e seven basic steps in the process are described. Th e Idaho).1943. Tofu debut seen in near future. 3(28):1. Sept. 4. soybeans are soaked, then fi nely ground in a grinder. Th is • Summary: “To be situated in the Blk. 22 laundry room material is “put in a copper kettle measuring about 42 inches the tofu plant will be operating by the end of next week, in diameter and about 22 inches deep and boiled in a 200 according to M. Yuki, foreman of the plant. degree F. mixture” of water, lime, and oil for about one-half “With fi ve persons working, approximately 600 cakes of hour and stirred constantly. [Aft er fi ltering] the hot liquid “is tofu will be produced daily.” placed in a settling tank and mixed with brine. In about 15 to 20 minutes the mixture is ready to be poured into a form box 692. Denson Tribune (Jerome Internment Center, Denson, where cloth has been applied and the water is forced out by Arkansas).1943. Center-made miso issued. 1(58):1. Sept. 17. pressure. Aft er 20 to 25 minutes, the bean curds harden and • Summary: “On Monday 600 pounds of Center-made miso are cut into squares and placed in cool water tanks, ready for were distributed among 34 mess halls. mess hall distribution.” “Having a total of 4600 pounds of miso on hand, the plant Th e food value [nutritional value] of tofu is given. makes an average of 1000 pounds a week.” 696. O’Harra, Michaela. 1943. Japs in Arizona camp create 693. Minidoka Irrigator (Minidoka Internment Center, Hunt, community in desert setting. Arizona Daily Star. Oct. 17. p. 1. Idaho).1943. Tofu manufacture begins Monday. 3(30):1. Sept. • Summary: Th e section titled “Food preparation” states 18. about 1,350 evacuees prepared food for their people in the • Summary: “Manufacturing of tofu will get under way this project’s mess hall. Rice is served twice daily. Most of the Monday in the Blk. 22 [Block 22] laundry room, according to people, when questioned, say they don’t like the food. “Th ey M. Yuki, foreman of the plant. usually confess, however, a fondness for various pickled “Six workers will be turning out 500 to 600 cakes of tofu a vegetables, pickled in salt rather than in vinegar, soy sauce day and distribution of the ‘bean cake’ will start from D.H. 1” and miso, a relish paste made of soy beans. Th ese are being [Dining Hall 1?]. prepared now in the project.” Note: Poston (also know as Colorado River) Relocation 694. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, Center was the name of one of two Japanese internment California).1943. Shoyu factory goes into full production. camps in Arizona during World War II. Each of the ten

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 156 camps was intended to be self-suffi cient. Built on the Angeles, and is scheduled to arrive in a week. Colorado River Indian Reservation (over the objection of the “With steady procurement of soybeans, production will Tribal Council), it was the largest of the 10 internment camps start at the rate of 1,000 lbs. per day as soon as plans for the operated by the War Relocation Authority (WRA), and the general set-up are readied. 4th largest community in Arizona. It was located in the “H.E. Keadle, project steward, will temporarily supervise southwest corner of Arizona. this project until Hoyt Martin, supervisor of industries, assumes full charge. 697. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, “Th e tofu factory crew will consist of six persons.” Arizona).1943. Poston may get soybean milk. 16(8):3. Oct. 22. 702. Granada Pioneer (Camp Amache / Granada Internment • Summary: “Poston will soon have ersatz milk made from Center, Granada, Colorado).1943. Large-scale production of soybeans to alleviate the lack caused by the nation-wide tofu to start. 2(7):1. Nov. 20. milk shortage, if all goes well with the equipment which the • Summary: “Th e mess division promises to satisfy the Steward’s department has obtained from Phoenix.” appetite of the tofu-hungry residents beginning next month when the center tofu factory will swing into full scale 698. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, operation. Arizona).1943. Poston may get soybean milk. 16(8):3. Oct. “Since last Saturday the tofu plant has only been 22. producing a small supply of tofu which fi lled the needs of six • Summary: “Poston will soon have ersatz milk made from mess halls at one time under the supervision of T. Nakagawa, soybeans to alleviate the lack caused by the nation-wide states Ted Tanaka, assistant project steward.” milk shortage, if all goes well with the equipment which the Steward’s department has obtained from Phoenix. 703. Granada Pioneer (Camp Amache / Granada Internment “At present it is planned to experiment with the milk Center, Granada, Colorado).1943. Large-scale production of substitute in Unit III only, in conjunction with the tofu tofu to start. 2(7):1. Nov. 20. industry which will supply the soybeans. If the milk agrees • Summary: “Th e mess division promises to satisfy the with Poston palates, arrangements will be made to have the appetite of tofu-hungry residents beginning next month milk made available to the other units. when the center tofu factory will swing into full scale “Soy bean milk has a higher protein content than cow’s operation. milk and is said to be richer in minerals.” “Since last Saturday the tofu plant has only been producing a small supply of tofu which fi lled the needs of six 699. Gila News-Courier (Gila River Internment Center, mess halls at one time under the supervision of T. Nakagawa, Phoenix, Arizona).1943. ‘Tofu’ manufacture in Rivers soon. states Ted Nakagawa, assistant project steward. 3(36):1. Nov. 13. “Tofu, which is to be produced in the factory located • Summary: “Equipment for the manufacture of tofu at Rivers in warehouse number 12, is made from ground soy beans has been purchased in California and should arrive within and then prepared with ‘ni-ga-li’ [nigari]. Th e combined the next week, stated Project Director Leroy H. Bennett.” ingredients are placed in trays or boxes to form cubes. Tofu are [sic] always kept in water until distribution, K. Amamoto, 700. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, foreman, revealed.” California).1943. Explains sale of miso at canteen. 4(20):2. Nov. 13. 704. Gila News-Courier (Gila River Internment Center, • Summary: “Sokichi Sugimoto, general manager of the Phoenix, Arizona).1943. Tofu, a dream no more. 3(40):3. Consumers’ Enterprises, in answer to a suggestion referred to Nov. 23. him... concerning the sale of miso at the canteen, stated that • Summary: “Tofu equipment has been shipped from each customer who does bring a container can have it fi lled. California and should arrive here in a day or two, stated “He explained that it is easier to put it in a bowl than Project Director Bennet, who returned Sunday from a wrapping it up in newspapers.” procurement trip to California.”

701. Gila News-Courier (Gila River Internment Center, 705. Rohwer Outpost (Th e) (Rohwer Internment Center, Phoenix, Arizona).1943. Mess 45 to be turned into tofu Rohwer, Arkansas).1943. Production of tofu and miso starts factory. 3(39):5. Nov. 20. here. 3(42):1. Nov. 24. • Summary: “Mess 45 has been chosen as the site for the tofu • Summary: “Production of tofu at the local factory in Block factory, announces John C. Doucha, assistant project director 42 will begin tomorrow. Distribution of tofu to the Mess halls of operations. will start next week. “Equipment has already been purchased from Los “With about 600 cubes of tofu estimated to be produced

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 158 in a day, delivery to each Mess hall may average about 100 phones 537-9068, 537-9069, 537-4451, P.O. Box 1266, cubes, once a week. Honolulu 7. Th e ad lists Diamond Shoyu, Diamond Su “At the Miso factory, seven 60-gallon barrels of miso are [vinegar], and Marumasa Shoyu as products. Not listed 1973. now being processed. Miso will be ready for delivery about Re-listed in 1975 directory. the middle of January.” Black-and-white photo of early rectangular Labels. About 1943. Diamond Soy Sauce. One gallon. Manufactured and 706. Gila News-Courier (Gila River Internment Center, bottled by Honolulu Sake Brewery & Ice Co., Ltd., Honolulu, Phoenix, Arizona).1943. Tofu factory progressing. 3(43):1. T.H. Later Label. Diamond Highest Quality Shoyu (soy Nov. 30. sauce). “Naturally Brewed and Aged.” Same ingredients and • Summary: “Tofu machinery for the forthcoming tofu manufacturer. 1 pint 8 oz. Both labels have illustrations of factory in mess 45 arrived Friday, announced John C. wheat and soybeans. Note: Th is is the earliest document seen Doucha, assistant project director of operations. (Oct. 2009) in which the term “naturally brewed” (with or “Miscellaneous equipment, such as presses, work tables, without hyphenation) is used in connection with soy sauce. benches, and the like, have yet to be built before the tofu Ad by Honolulu Sake Brewery & Ice Co., Ltd. in Hui production can commence. Requisition for the materials Manaolana. 1951. Japanese Foods: (Tested Recipes). necessary the construct the equipment has been submitted Honolulu, Hawaii. See p. 44. “Highest quality natural brewed and approved. Diamond Shoyu (Soy Sauce). Patronize your local products. “A crew of two men, assisted by the mess 45 crew, is now Sold at all grocers. 2150 Booth Rd., Honolulu.” Note: Th is working on the conversion of the mess to a tofu factory.” same ad appears on the same page in the 1956 edition. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. 707. Gila News-Courier (Gila River Internment Center, “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Shows Phoenix, Arizona).1943. Keadle gets facts on tofu delivery. an old and a new label and gives the address. Th e company 3(44):4. Dec. 2. is still in business. Label. Received Feb. 1988 from Honolulu • Summary: “Project Steward H.E. Keadle returned Tuesday Sake Brewery Co. Ltd. 4.5 by 3.5 inches. Red, black, brown, night from a trip to Poston [Arizona] where he went to get blue, green, and white. “Highest quality. Naturally brewed necessary data on tofu consumption and distribution. and aged. 50.7 fl . oz. Ingredients: Water, soybeans, salt, wheat, “Poston has a smooth mess operation, according to disodium inosinate, caramel coloring, and sodium benzoate Keadle. Th ey are making soy bean milk as well as tofu, and a preservative.” Size: 50.7 fl . oz. (1 qt. 1 pt. 2.7 fl . oz) or 101 Rivers will soon be making them too, he said.” fl . oz. (3 qts. 5 fl . oz.). Letter from Takao Nihei. 1988. July 19. Diamond Shoyu was fi rst made in 1943 by the Honolulu Sake 708. Product Name: Diamond Soy Sauce (Later renamed Brewery & Ice Co. Ltd. It still exists as Diamond Soy Sauce, Diamond Shoyu). made by the Honolulu Sake Brewery Co. Ltd. in Honolulu. Manufacturer’s Name: Honolulu Sake Brewery & Ice Co. Ltd. Manufacturer’s Address: 2150 Booth Rd., Honolulu, Oahu, 709. Topaz Times (Topaz Internment Center, Topaz, Hawaii. Utah).1944. Construction of tofu plant begins. 6(2):1. Jan. 4. Date of Introduction: 1943. • Summary: “Th e foundations of the tofu plant east of the Ingredients: Diamond Soy Sauce: Soya beans, salt, wheat, hospital laundry began yesterday, according to George caramel, and 1/10 of 1% sodium benzoate. Shimamoto, construction engineer. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Bottle. “Th e 20’ x 60’ [20 foot by 60 foot] plant is being built New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and from a CCC [Civilian Conservation Corps] building.” Note: the Territory of Hawaii. 1930-31. p. 241. Th e company is Th e Topaz Times is printed using a mimeograph machine. currently named Honolulu Ice Co. Ltd. Tomokuni Iwanaga is president. Th ey are at 2153 Booth Rd. In the 1934-35 710. Sentinel (Heart Mountain Internment Center, Heart Directory (p. 211) the name changes to Honolulu Sake Mountain, Wyoming).1944. Tofu factory in operation. 3(2):8. Brewery & Ice Co. Ltd. Daizo Sumida is president. Same Jan. 8. address. Th ey are never listed as a shoyu manufacturer in • Summary: “A familiar food item on mess hall tables from any index up through 1954. But Diamond appears as a brand the fi rst of the year will be tofu, which is now being produced in the 1961-62 index under “Soy Manufacturers.” 1966- on a fairly large scale in one-portion of the bakery plant. 67 Directory. Listed under the Shoyu Mnfrs. category as “A trial batch was made at the end of December, and Honolulu Sake Brewery & Ice Co. Ltd. (Diamond Shoyu), tofu made its appearance on the New Year menu. Regular 2150 Booth rd, Telephones 59-068, 59-069, 574-451. Not production got under way last Monday. Th e daily output is listed 1967-68. 800 squares. 1968-69 Directory. Listed in Buyers’ Guide, p. 145. “Th e staff of 12, which includes one woman, is divided Established 1908, cable address “Honosake” Honolulu, into two shift s that work from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Supervisor of

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 159 the plant, is Kichizo Umeno, former operator of a tofu fi rm in potential sabotage, these noncitizen U.S. residents of Japanese San Francisco.” descent had been interned elsewhere in the U.S. following Japan’s attack on Pearl Harbor in December 1941. Th ey 711. Gila News-Courier (Gila River Internment Center, volunteered for transfer to the Kooskia Internment Camp Phoenix, Arizona).1944. Tofu factory shift s to high. 3(63):1. and earned wages for helping build the Lewis-Clark Highway, Jan. 15. now Highway 12, between Lewiston, Idaho, and Missoula, • Summary: “A total of 3,515 cakes of tofu is being produced Montana, supervised by U.S. Bureau of Public Roads weekly at the tofu factory as mess 45 swings into full blast employees.” with its crew of 10 men, according to H.E. Keadle, chief “Knowledge of their rights under the 1929 Geneva project steward. Convention empowered the Kooskia internees to successfully “Tofu is being distributed to Canal on Tuesdays, to Butte challenge administrative mistreatment, thereby regaining on Th ursdays, to special diets everyday, and on Mondays, much of the self-respect they had lost by being so unjustly Wednesdays, and Fridays to the hospital. Nine hundred and interned. Here, fi nally, is their story.” twenty cakes are made on Tuesday for Canal, and 750 each A slide presentation and book signing will be held in on Wednesday and Th ursday, 1500 in all for Butte, to be Portland, Oregon, Th ursday, May 12, 2011, 5:00 p.m., at the distributed on Th ursday. Oregon Nikkei Legacy Center, 121 NW 2nd Avenue, (503) “Purchased from Colorado and now on hand are enough 224-1458. Hosted by the Oregon Nikkei Endowment and soy beans to supply the factory for six months ahead.” sponsored by Oregon Humanities (Website announcement). Concerning Fort Missoula: “Fort Missoula Internment 712. Minidoka Irrigator (Minidoka Internment Center, Hunt, Camp was an internment camp operated by the United States Idaho).1944. Rare foodstuff s received here from internees. Department of Justice during the World War II. Japanese 2(49):1. Jan. 29. Americans and Italian Americans were imprisoned here • Summary: “Word received from the International Red during this war. Cross and the Washington offi ce of the WRA indicates that “Fort Missoula was established near Missoula, Montana residents will receive a large quantity of shoyu sauce and as a permanent military post in 1877 in response to citizen other commodities brought to the United States on the concerns of confl ict with local Native American tribes. In exchange ship Gripsholm. 1941 Fort Missoula was turned over to the Department “Th e shipment includes 440 barrels [kegs] of shoyu sauce, of Immigration and Naturalization for use as an Alien 15 barrels of bean mash [miso], 15 cases of green tea, 2 cases Detention Center [ADC] for non-military Italian men. of drugs, 1 case of musical instruments and 1 case of books.” “1,200 Italian citizens were interred at Fort Missoula, Note: Th is is the earliest English-language document seen including merchant seamen and World’s Fair workers who (May 2011) that uses the term “bean mash” to refer to miso. were in the U.S. and could not be returned to Italy, as well “Th ese are being shipped to Hunt residents from as the crew of an Italian luxury liner seized in the Panama internment camps at Kooskia [Idaho] and Missoula Canal. In addition, 650 Japanese American men were interred [Montana] and from Rohner, Gehrig and Company, New at the camp for questioning before being transferred to other York, for the benefi t of Japanese nationals in this project.” facilities” (Sources: Wikipedia, at Fort Missoula Internment Note 1. Concerning Kooskia: “Th e long-awaited account Camp, May 2011). of Idaho’s World War II Kooskia Internment Camp is now “Following the bombing of Pearl Harbor on December available. Titled Imprisoned in Paradise: Japanese Internee 7, 1941, the FBI arrested more than a 1,000 of the most Road Workers at the World War II Kooskia Internment prominent Japanese leaders on the west coast as potential Camp, it describes a unique, virtually forgotten, World War security risks. Ultimately, over 1,000 Japanese men–all II detention and road building facility that was located on the resident aliens barred by law from American citizenship– remote, wild, and scenic Lochsa River in north central Idaho were held at Fort Missoula for loyalty hearings. None was at the site of an earlier CCC camp and a former federal prison ever charged with any act of disloyalty but all were held at camp above Lowell, Idaho. Between mid-1943 and mid-1945 Fort Missoula or other camps for the duration of the war.” the Kooskia (KOOS-key) camp held an all-male contingent of “Fort Missoula is currently the largest intact World War II some 265 so-called ‘enemy aliens’ of Japanese ancestry. Most internment site with most major buildings of the era still in came from 21 states and 2 territories, but others were from use,...” (Source: “Th e Historical Museum at Fort Missoula.” Mexico; some were even kidnapped from Panama and Peru. “Alien detention center,” website). Two alien internee doctors, an Italian and later a German, provided medical services; 25 Caucasian employees included 713. Minidoka Irrigator (Minidoka Internment Center, Hunt, several women; and a Japanese American man censored the Idaho).1944. 12,849 tofu cakes made here during Jan. 2(49):1. mail.” Jan. 29. “Despite having committed no crimes, but suspected of • Summary: “Supplying the center demand for the Japanese

bean cake, the tofu manufacturing plant, located in the Blk. • Summary: “Th ree hundred sixty barrels of shoyu and 1000 22 laundry room, sent 12,849 cakes to the mess management pounds of miso were received from the Japanese Red Cross, during the last month. Th e plant is staff ed with 8 workers. it was learned today. Th e foodstuff s, which arrived on the “A pickling plant located adjacent to the hospital is exchange ship, Cripsholm, last month, were relayed here making twice weekly deliveries of... nappa tsukemono to from the Missoula Internment Camp in Montana. mess halls.” “Th e community council is discussing plans for distributing the foodstuff s to the residents.” 714. Rohwer Outpost (Th e) (Rohwer Internment Center, Rohwer, Arkansas).1944. Food: Tofu and miso top output. 716. Shipment of goods from Japan. 1944. Feb. 6. 4(8):1. Jan. 29. • Summary: Th is photo (above) was taken by George • Summary: “Production reports from the Tofu and Miso Ochikubo on 4 Feb. 1944 in Amache, Colorado. “Group factory for January were released through L.A. May, Head of in front of Block 7-F, the camp’s Block Information Offi ce. Mess management. Japan’s Red Cross sent barrels of soy sauce, packages of miso “Ably headed by Foreman J. Yamaguchi, and staff ed by 11 and tea to Amache via the exchange ship USS Gripsholm. workers, the Tofu factory manufactured and distributed some Each block received a portion of the shipment.” On each 12,595 pounds of tofu for local consumption. wooden keg of shoyu is a Kikkoman logo. “Under Foreman G. Miyano, and aided by four Courtesy of George Ochikubo Collection and Densho employees, the Miso section produced 2,109 pounds of miso.” Digital Archive. Address: Granada incarceration camp, Amache, Colorado. 715. Topaz Times (Topaz Internment Center, Topaz, Utah).1944. Japanese Red Cross sends shoyu, miso. 6(11):1. 717. Gila News-Courier (Gila River Internment Center, Jan. 29. Phoenix, Arizona).1944. Canal to start making tofu. 3(77):5.

Feb. 17. • Summary: Th e Community Council, aft er an intensive • Summary: “Tofu, which is being produced at mess hall 45 review of project problems, made the following resolutions: in Butte, will soon be in production at Canal, too, stated Mets “1. To establish ‘miso’ and ‘moyashi’ manufacturing plants.” Ando, chairman of the Canal Community Council. “Ando had appointed a committee of three councilmen, 722. Sentinel Supplement (Heart Mountain Internment Errol Ishii, Ben Iida, and J. Kirihara, to investigate ways Center, Heart Mountain, Wyoming).1944. Shoyu distributed and means to start production. Th e steam boiler and all to residents. No. 183. March 28. equipment except a grinder are ready to go at the old • Summary: “Th e food committee of the community council dehydration plant, Ando said. He also hinted the possibility announced that 376 kegs of shoyu received from the Japanese of making miso and shoyu.” Red Cross were distributed Th ursday to the mess hall ‘30’ of every block. It was issued in proportion to the population of 718. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, the blocks, the committee said.” Arizona).1944. Shoyu, tea, miso, gift s of Japanese International Red Cross distributed to blocks. 17(28):3. Feb. 723. Sentinel Supplement (Heart Mountain Internment 24. Center, Heart Mountain, Wyoming).1944. Shoyu distributed • Summary: “Th e food items originally sent by the Japanese to residents. No. 183. p. 2. March 28. International Red Cross to the Japanese in the United • Summary: “Th e food committee of the community council States have been distributed to the various blocks under the announced that 376 kegs of shoyu received from the Japanese direction of the local Red Cross chapters. Red Cross were distributed Th ursday to mess hall 30 of every “Th e Poston III allocation includes 103 barrels of block. It was issued in proportion to the population of the ‘Kikkoman’ shoyu, 19 boxes of tea and six barrels of miso. blocks, the committee said. “Th e amount distributed to the blocks will be according “Block 1, 2, 8, 14, 29 and 30 received 19 kegs each. Blocks to its population as of February 13, 1944, it was stated. 6, 9, 12, 15, 17, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 27 and 28 were issued 20 “Other articles which have been sent include magazines, kegs each, while blocks 7 and 25 received 7 and 15 kegs, phonograph records and medicines.” respectively.”

719. Sentinel Supplement (Heart Mountain Internment 724. Topaz Times (Topaz Internment Center, Topaz, Center, Heart Mountain, Wyoming).1944. Tofu, miso Utah).1944. 1800 cakes of tofu distributed to mess halls. distributed to local residents. No. 176. March 2. 7(4):3. April 12. • Summary: “Distribution of green tea and miso from the • Summary: “Th e fi rst batch for 1800 cakes of tofu made at Japanese Red Cross to the residents of the center will be the center tofu factory was distributed to the mess halls last completed this week-end, according to Minejiro Hayashida of Friday, according to Harry Konda of the industry section. the community council food committee. “Th e tofu plant... will produce enough tofu for “All blocks with the exception of 7 and 25, will receive 268 the residents twice a week. Konda stated that there is packages of tea and 70.56 pounds of miso.” approximately 7500 pounds of soy beans at the commissary tofu be used in the making of tofu. Tofu will me made on 720. Tule Lake Bulletin (Tule Lake Internment Center, Mondays, Tuesdays and Fridays.” Newell, California).1944. Internees to send shoyu to families Note: By 12 Aug. 1945 tofu was still being made at the and friends. March 2. p. 2. Topaz camp. • Summary: On February 1, a number of internees at the Santa Fe Internment Camp [in New Mexico; one of 27 run 725. Granada Pioneer (Camp Amache / Granada Internment by the U.S. Department of Justice] consolidated 58 barrels of Center, Granada, Colorado).1944. Tofu factory needs help. shoyu sauce which is to be sent to their respective families or 2(60):5. May 31. friends in this center. • Summary: “Center tofu factory may have to curtail “Th is shipment is not to be confused with the production unless fi ve men are added to its deleted [sic, International Red Cross shipment from the said camp. Th e depleted] staff immediately, stated Yoshio Tsuruda of the express charges on the 58 barrels of shoyu sauce have been mess division yesterday... Th ose interested are asked to apply apportioned among the internees. at mess personnel offi ce, or the employment offi ce.” “Names of the senders and their respective families or friends are as follows:...” 726. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, Arizona).1944. Fire destroys tofu factory. 19(12):1. June 17. 721. Minidoka Irrigator (Minidoka Internment Center, Hunt, • Summary: “An early morning fi re destroyed the Unit I Tofu Idaho).1944. Council airs city problems: Miso, moyashi, and Age factory at 5:30 a.m. Friday morning suspending the plants. OPD situation argued. 4(5):1. March 25. output of the beans products in Camp I. Th e fi re started from

the cooking oil where abura-age was being made by the early 729. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, morning crew, according to Harley Woodhouse, assistant fi re Arizona).1944. Diet patients to get tofu. 19(29):2. July 29. chief.” • Summary: “Th e diet distribution (?) center at Block 21 40-A began distribution of tofu manufactured in Unit III, to the 727. Sentinel (Heart Mountain Internment Center, Heart special diet patients of Unit I, Monday July 12.” Mountain, Wyoming).1944. Shoyu fi rm opens branch in Denver. 3(26):6. June 24. 730. Gila News-Courier (Gila River Internment Center, • Summary: “Th e Showa Shoyu Brewing company, brewers of Phoenix, Arizona).1944. Tofu factory to open again. 3(150):3. Marusho shoyu, has opened a distributing offi ce at Lawrence Aug. 5. street in Denver, Colorado. • Summary: “Canal’s tofu plant is about to start again under “Th e offi ce is under the management of Fred Ota, former the supervision of Yaiichi Nishi, who operated the tofu general manager of Poston community enterprises. He is factory in Jerome, stated Hoyt Martin, superintendent of assisted by Bob Uragami, former buyer of Poston enterprises. industries.” “Th e company is entering the brokerage business and will handle other food products. Th e main offi ce is located in 731. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, Glendale, Arizona.” Arizona).1944. New tofu plant replaces ruins. 20(17):2. Sept. Note: Th is is the earliest document seen (July 2011) that 9. mentions either the “Showa Shoyu Brewing company” or • Summary: “Reconstruction work on the tofu factory is their product, “Marusho Shoyu.” going forward, announces C.E. Snelsor, chief steward. “Because the plant was destroyed by fi re earlier this year 728. Gila News-Courier (Gila River Internment Center, (June 17, 1944), tofu production had been discontinued in Phoenix, Arizona).1944. Tofu for peptic ulcers: Dr. Lawson. Unit I. 3(139):5. July 11. “Under the supervision of Henry Miwa, tofu foreman, the • Summary: “Dr. Grace Lawson, chief dietician, returned to old building will be torn down and a new tofu factory will be the project Friday, aft er visiting the Topaz Relocation Center, constructed at the former site.” Chicago, and Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. “Dr. Lawson attended the American Women’s Home 732. War Relocation Authority (WRA). 1944? Photograph of Association conference in Chicago at the Hotel Stevens, Mr. Kamaya examining plants in soy bean fi eld at Minidoka where she spoke on ‘Tofu for the Hungry World.’” camp in southern Idaho. Undated. • Summary: Th is photo (above) was taken by an unknown

WRA photographer on an unknown date. Courtesy of the National Archives and Records Administration (Number 210-CMB-AGI-1124) and of the Densho Digital Archive. Address: Minidoka incarceration camp, Jerome County, Idaho.

733. Minidoka Irrigator (Minidoka Internment Center, Hunt, Idaho).1945. 1,500 tofu cakes to be made daily. 4(45):1. Jan. 20. • Summary: “Beginning January 17, the tofu plant doubled its output of tofu cakes manufacturing approximately 1500 cakes daily, M. Yuki, tofu plant supervisor said this week. To meet this increased production an additional 10 men were added to the personnel making a total of 19 men employed.”

734. Poston Chronicle (Poston Internment Center, Arizona).1945. Persons on special diet may get tofu. 22(18):3. March 3. • Summary: “In addition to the issuance of baby food and advice to mothers, the diet offi ce at Blk. 21-10-A, will begin to issue tofu on Mondays and Th ursdays to about 150 persons who are on special diet. “Th e diet list includes those who have ulcers, diabetes, and other digestive ailments.”

735. Manzanar Free Press (Manzanar Internment Camp, California).1945. Miso factory closes. 6(100):2. June 6. • Summary: “’Th e miso factory closed last Friday,’ stated Mess camp in the northwestern corner of Wyoming], have Chief Steward J.R. Winchester, ‘but there are 15,000 pounds purchased a home at 2735 Colfax South in Minneapolis of miso, more than enough to last us until the close of camp, [Minnesota], where they plan to establish the business of on January 2, 1945.’” manufacturing tofu for the three Japanese restaurants in Minneapolis, as well as for resettlers here. “To date the only 736. Marriage of John Takeo Tadano and Mary Mariko source of supply for tofu has been Chicago, Illinois, and the Taguchi, on 1 July 1945 at Rocky Ford, Colorado local restaurants have complained that Chicago does not ship (Photograph). 1945. tofu during the warm months. • Summary: John (upper right) was later the owner of “Th e Hayano family, prior to evacuation [during World Marusho Shoyu in Glendale, Arizona. Sent to Soyinfo Center War II], were residents of Mt. Vernon, Washington. While by Barbara Y. Peters, their daughter (Nov. 2008). Barbara at Heart Mountain, Mr. Hayano supplied tofu to Center writes: “My dad met my mother through her sister Lucy Seo. residents for a period of seven months.” My Mother graduated from Colorado University as a Medical Technologist.” 739. Gila News-Courier (Gila River Internment Center, Phoenix, Arizona).1945. Minneapolis has tofu factory. 737. Rocky Shimpo (Denver, Colorado).1945. Hayanos 4(58):5. July 21. opening tofu factory in Minneapolis. 12(85):1. July 18. • Summary: “Evacuees in the Twin Cities area in Minnesota • Summary: Evacuees in the Twin Cities area of Minneapolis welcome a new enterprise, the manufacture of tofu, / St. Paul, Minnesota, are welcoming Toraji Hayano, formerly established by an Issei couple. of Heart Mountain, Wyoming, who plans to manufacture “Mr. And Mrs. Toraji Tom Hayano, formerly of Heart tofu in the area. Prior to evacuation, the family resided in Mt. Mountain have purchased a home at 735, Colfox South in Vernon, Washington [state]. Minneapolis, where they will manufacture tofu for Japanese restaurants in Minneapolis and for resettlers.” 738. Colorado Times (Denver, Colorado).1945. Tofu factory set up in Minn. [Minnesota]. 31(4338):1. July 19. 740. Manzanar Relocation Supplement (Manzanar • Summary: Mr. and Mrs. Horaji Tom Hayano, an Issei Internment Camp, California).1945. Hayano’s tofu factory couple, formerly of Heart Mountain [Japanese incarceration opens in Minneapolis. 1(15):4. July 28.

• Summary: “Minneapolis–Mr. and Mrs. Horaji Tom Hayano, • Summary: On 24 Oct. 1945 WRA photographer R.H. Ross formerly of 20-14-E, Heart Mountain Relocation Center, shot fi ve black and white photos of Japanese incarcerated at have purchased a home at 2735 Colfax South in Minneapolis Tule Lake incarceration camp, California, making tofu. Th e [Minnesota], where they will establish the business of original WRA captions read: (1) “Note: Th e markings on the manufacturing tofu for the three Japanese restaurants in blackboard, upper right, show the Japanese way of counting Minneapolis, as well as for resettlers here, the Chicago WRA in fi ves to show number of buckets of beans processed. Th e offi ce announced.” bucket on the lower right contains soy beans which are soaked over night and then poured into this centrifugal 741. Soybean Digest.1945. Grits and fl akes... from the world ‘masher’ which revolves at comparatively high speed. Th e of soy: John Tadano is erecting a plant for the production of white, crushed bean substance drops down into the container soy sauce in Glendale, Arizona. Aug. p. 22. below in a white paste-like form.” • Summary: Mr. Tadano has had soy sauce on the market there since 1941. “Capacity of the expanded plant, one of the largest in the country, is expected to be 3,500 gallons monthly.” Note 1. Th e Tadano family began making shoyu in a wooden building on their property in Glendale, probably in early 1942, but perhaps as early as late 1941. For details, see SoyaScan Notes interview with Mary and Michiko Tadano, Sept. 2002. Th e wooden building was constructed specifi cally for making shoyu. It had very wide sliding doors so the large vats could be brought into the building. Note 2. Mr. Tadano may have been selling soy sauce made by another company in 1941.

742. War Relocation Authority (WRA). 1945. Incarcerees making tofu. Oct. 24. (2) “Th e paste-like crushed bean mash [gô] is cooked thoroughly in the big vat shown in the picture and constantly stirred. Th is tofu (pronounced To-o-fu) factory is operated by the Tule Lake Co-op.”

(3) “Th e cooked beans are poured into a fi ne-meshed sack and water is added. Squeezing the sack the fi brous substance is held back and the rest of the precipitate is squeezed into a barrel. Into this strained mash or curd, brine is added to cause it to precipitate. Th is factory is operated by the Co-op.”

Tom Amano always made tofu, abura-age, konnyaku, and high-quality fat noodles with plenty of eggs. In about 1955 there was a bad fi re in the shop. So Tom moved the shop to 366 S.W. 5th Street, into a building that he partially owned; the other part was owned and occupied by a laundry run by Jim Kanetomi. Aft er Jim took over the company he continued to make the same products, and did not introduce any new ones. Jim sold the company in 1982 to Kuni and Vickie Kobayashi.

744. Komaki (Joe T.); Kalifornians Enterprise. comp. 1945-. Chicago nisei business directory. Chicago, Illinois: Californians Enterprise. 28 cm. [Eng]* • Summary: Two-page spread in Chicago Japanese American year book. 1949. Photos of the covers of two editions suggest (4) “Th e precipitate is put into forms and pressed. Later that that fi rst edition was 1945 (2,000 copies printed); For the it is cut into smaller cakes and kept in water as shown. Tofu 1946 edition, 4,500 copies were printed. Address: Chicago, is a kind of ‘bean curd’ considered essential to the Japanese Illinois. diet. Other pictures in this group show the various processes in the manufacture of this product. To preserve it is kept in 745. Product Name: Tofu, and miso. water until used.” Manufacturer’s Name: Aoki Tofu Co. Manufacturer’s Address: Berkeley, California. Date of Introduction: 1946. New Product–Documentation: Leviton. 1983. Soyfoods. Summer. p. 35. “Profi le: Azumaya Tofu Company.” Jack Mizono recalls that Aoki Tofu opened in Berkeley in 1946. Th e company made tofu and miso. Note: Existing documents show that Aoki Tofu may well have opened in nearby Oakland in 1946; see separate record.

746. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Aoki Tofu Seizo-sho (Aoki Food Product Co.) (Merit Food Product Co.). Manufacturer’s Address: 519 Chestnut, Oakland, California. Phone: TW. 3-2746. (5) “Th is product called ‘Age’ is made from the bean Date of Introduction: 1946. curd. Th is is shown in the picture. Th e curd is fried in deep New Product–Documentation: Entry in Nichi Bei Times. soy-bean fat until browned.” Photos courtesy of the National 1948. Evacuation-Resettlement Report. Directory of Archives and Records Administration (Number 210-C-B-20; manufacturers, p. 26 (top left ). In Japanese: Aoki Tofu 210-CL-B-24). Seizôsho. In English: Merit Food Product Co., 510 Chestnut, Oakland, California. Phone: TW. 3-2746. 743. Product Name: Tofu, and Agé. Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 94. Aoki Tofu Manufacturer’s Name: [Tom Amano Tofu Co.]. Seizô-sho, Aoki Food Product Co., 885 Athens Ave., Oakland. Manufacturer’s Address: S.W. 4th Ave., Ontario, Oregon. Phone: TW 3-2746. Date of Introduction: 1945. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times New Product–Documentation: Talk with Jim Kanetomi. Directory]. 1952, p. 56. Under “Groceries, Food Products.” 1988. Nov. 17. Phone: 503-889-6392. Th e tofu company that In Japanese: Aoki Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: Merit Food he bought and later renamed Kanetomi’s was founded in 1945 Product Co. [!], 885 Athens Ave., Oakland, California. Phone: by Tom Amano, his father in law. Tom was born in Japan and HI 4-5943. had learned to make tofu on his own. As long as Tom ran the Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 125. company, it never had a name or a sign, not even when Jim Directory entry under “Food Dealers.” In Japanese: Aoki took over the company (he didn’t actually buy it) in 1958. Tofu Seizôsho [Aoki Tofu Mfg. Co.]. In English: Aoki Food Th en Jim went 7-8 years with no name or sign until the local Product, 885 Athens Ave., Oakland, Calif. Phone: 893-2746. people gradually started calling the company Kanetomi’s. Leviton. 1983. Soyfoods. Summer. p. 35. “Profi le:

Azumaya Tofu Company.” Jack Mizono recalls that Aoki Manufacturers, Ltd. 1956 Honolulu City Directory. Green Tofu opened in Berkeley in 1946. Th e company made tofu Mill Manufacturing Corp. and miso. Note: Did Aoki start in Oakland, then move to 1957 Directory. Green Mill Food Manufacturing, Ltd. Berkeley, or visa versa? If so, what was the date of each of (Kaiso Yasuda, President). Tofu, aburage, konnyaku. 914 these two events? Or (as seems more likely) did the company Coolidge, Honolulu, HI 96814. Phone 992-370. Hawaii start in Oakland and stay there until at least 1970. Directory of Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Green Mill Food Manufacturing Co. Same address and phone. 747. Product Name: Kanemasa Miso. 1967-68 Directory. Green Mill Food Manufacturers. Ltd., Manufacturer’s Name: Fujimoto Products & Co. (Fujimoto 914 Coolidge St. Continues through 1970. Hawaii Directory Shôkai). of Manufacturers. 1969. p. 17. Green Mill Food Mfg. Ltd. Manufacturer’s Address: 302 S. 4th West, Salt Lake City, Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1973. p. 10. Makes “Tofu Utah. and by-products.” Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Date of Introduction: 1946. Tofu. p. 313. Interview with Tom Uehara. New Product–Documentation: Salt Lake City Directory. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu 1946. In Japanese: Fujimoto Shôkai. In English: Fujimoto (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Products & Co. (Mrs. Rae S. Fujimoto). Soy bean products. and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 394. Green Mill Food 302 S. 4th W. Her residence is at 343 N. 5th W. At same Manufacturers, 914 Coolidge St., Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii residence is Tsuya (a helper), Grace F. (sten), and Edward K. 96814. Phone: 808-949-2370. Owner: Tom Uehara. (whose wife is Rae S.), manager. 1949 Directory, same except 1984. Jan. 19. Th e company was founded in 1946 and that Grace F. is now offi ce secretary. 1953 Directory. Fujimoto presently makes 5,400 lb/week of tofu. & Co. (Rae S. Fujimoto). Soy bean products. 302 S. 4th W. Edward K., manager. Rae S. Residence 343 N. 5th W. Note: 749. Product Name: Tofu, and Age. Company is not listed in the 1944 Directory. 1945 directory is Manufacturer’s Name: Kawamoto Tofu Shop. not on the shelf at Sutro Library, San Francisco. Manufacturer’s Address: 418 Island Ave., (between 4th and Ad (¼ page) in Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese 5th), San Diego, California. American Times Directory]. 1952, p. 461. Th e top 1/3 of this Date of Introduction: 1946. ad is in English: Fujimoto & Co., 302 So. 4th W. St., Salt Lake New Product–Documentation: Talk with Haruki Koba, City, Utah. Phone: 4-8279. Japanese: Fujimoto Shôkai. Th eir former owner of Oriental Groceries. 1989. Oct. 25. In Japanese-style Kanemasa logo is shown. Th ey sell Edo miso December 1947 he and his wife, Haruki, bought an existing and koji. Directory entry p. 462, under “Stores.” English: tofu business (on Island St., between 4th and 5th) from Mr. Fujimoto Co. Yoshio Kawamoto, a second-generation (nisei) Japanese, Note: According to Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book who made tofu and agé, and had been making them, but not of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 234. Th e earliest know miso company in very profi tably, for 1½-2 years. He cannot recall the business the continental USA was founded by Mr. Genpei Fujimoto, name. and began operation in 1917. In 1942 it was the largest miso Letter from Haruki and Michiko Koba. 1989. Nov. 30. company in the continental USA. During World War II, in Th is company was located at 418 Island Ave., San Diego, about 1943-44, because of the Japanese evacuation, it was California 92101. Th ey think the company was started in shut down and moved to 302 South Fourth West, Salt Lake 1946. “Mr. Yoshio Kawamoto was in the U.S. Army. He and City, Utah. It was reestablished in Salt Lake City aft er the war Mr. Fred Sugimoto started the business. Yoshio is deceased by the son of the founder, Edward Kanta Fujimoto, and his and we do not know the whereabouts of the Sugimotos.” wife, Shizue. 750. Product Name: Tofu. 748. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: San Jose Tofu Co. Manufacturer’s Name: Green Mill Tofu Factory. Manufacturer’s Address: 175 E. Jackson St., San Jose, CA Manufacturer’s Address: 395b N. Vineyard, Honolulu, Oahu, 95112. Phone: 408-292-7026 or 408-297-9072. Hawaii. Phone: 808-949-2370. Date of Introduction: 1946. Date of Introduction: 1946. How Stored: Refrigerated. How Stored: Refrigerated. New Product–Documentation: San Jose City Directory. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1949-50. First listing for San Jose Tofu Co. (Yoshito Nozaki, 1948. Green Mill Tofu Factory. 395b N Vineyard. 1951 Takakaichi Taira), bakers, 175 Jackson St.; 1954 listing same Directory. Green Mill Food Manufacturing Co. 914 Coolidge. but only Yoshito Nozaki is now listed; 1960 listing same but 1953 Directory. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1953. only Chan Nozaki is listed; 1965-70. Same but only Takeshi (Revised 26 July 1955). p. 10. Tofu (Bean curd). Green Mill Nozaki is listed. Food Manufacturing Co., 914 Coolidge St. Green Mill Food Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 178. Category:

“Factories.” San Jose Tofu seizô-sho, San Jose Tofu Co., 173 E. proposals, the kibei meeting at Manzanar, the Poston Jackson St., San Jose. No phone. strike, the Manzanar disturbance, the isolation center, leave Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times clearance procedures, the mass registration, the Japanese Directory]. 1952, p. 116. Under “Misc., Business.” In Japanese: American Joint Board, General DeWitt’s segregation plan, San Jose Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: San Jose Tofu Mfg. Co., the pressure for segregation, the segregation policy, the 173 E. Jackson St., San Jose. Phone: CY 2-7024. Ad (¼ page), segregation movements, the background of the Tule Lake p. 121. Top 1/3 of ad is in English. In Japanese: Mr. Yoshizô incident, the events of November 1-4, the progress of leave Nozaki. Th ey make and sell tofu, konnyaku, and aburaagé. clearance, Tule Lake in 1944, the renunciation of citizenship, Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 314. the army’s program of individual exclusion and detention. Directory entry under “Food Companies.” In Japanese: San Th e management of centers Th e fi ght for status. Th e Jose Tofu Seizôsho [San Jose Tofu Mfg. Co.]. In English: San resettlement program. Evacuee property. Th e emergency Jose Tofu Co., 175 E. Jackson St., San Jose, California. Phone: refugee shelters. 292-7096. Refl ections and recommendations: Democracy evacuates Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. a minority, the impact of camp life on the evacuated Kenny Takeshi Nozaki. A beautiful traditional shop making people, some noteworthy features of WRA administration, delicious nigari tofu. During the late 1970s, Mr. Nozaki very unfi nished business, an anatomy of intolerance. Appendix. kindly showed many prospective Caucasian tofu makers his Foreword, by D.S. Meyer, Director. “During the spring of shop and some of the secrets of his craft ; Janet West. 1946, aft er the last of the relocation centers had been closed, Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu a large share of the agency’s time and eff ort was concentrated (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops on the job of preparing a number of special reports dealing and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 393. Owner: Kenny Takeshi with the various major phases of WRA operations. Nine such Nozaki. reports, in addition to this one, have been completed. 1986. San Jose Business Journal. July 28. p. 1, 18. “San Jose “Th e distinction between this report and the other nine Firm Makes Tofu the Old Fashioned Way.” Talk with Kenny is mainly one of focus and of scope. Th is fi nal report of the Nozaki. 1988. Aug. 25. Th e company was started in 1946 Director is an attempt at a comprehensive view of the WRA by his uncle, Yoshizo Nozaki, and a Mr. Taira at the present program in its entirety; each of the others deals in detail with location. Before them, there was one tofu company at the some particular facet of the program which is necessarily Dobashi Market in San Jose, but they closed before World covered here somewhat summarily and sketchily. Th e other War II. Kenny joined the company in 1952. His son, Chester fi nal reports of WRA are: Akira Nozaki, is now the main tofu maker, carrying on the (1) Wartime Exile–Th e Exclusion of the Japanese tradition of fresh, hand-made tofu. But Kenny still works Americans from the West Coast. (2) Impounded People–Th e each day too. Story of Life in the Relocation Centers. (3) Th e Relocation Program. (4) Wartime Handling of Evacuee Property. 751. War Relocation Authority. 1946. WRA: A story (5) Administrative Highlights of the WRA Program. (6) of human conservation. Washington, DC: U.S. Dep. Community Government in War Relocation Centers. (7) of the Interior, War Relocation Authority. For sale by Legal and Constitutional Phases of the WRA Program. (8) Superintendent of Documents. xvi + 212 p. Illust. 23 cm. [9 Token Shipment–Th e Story of America’s War Refugee Shelter. ref] (9) Th e Evacuated People–A series of statistical tables. • Summary: Th is is the offi cial overview report of the Japanese internment camps during World War II. On the 752. Product Name: Fermented Shoyu. cover: “United States Department of the Interior, J.A. Krug, Manufacturer’s Name: Unknown Japanese-American Run Secretary. War Relocation Authority, D.S. Meyer, Director. Company. Contents: Foreword. Chronology (from 29 Jan. 1942 Manufacturer’s Address: San Francisco, California. to 30 June 1946). Introduction. Forces and Factors: Th e Date of Introduction: 1946? Administrators, the administered, the public, the demands of New Product–Documentation: Talk with Esta Keirn of total war, the organic law of the land, the global implications. Oriental Show-You Co. 1981. Dec. 5. Th e only other early Th e Centers. maker of shoyu that Keirn knows of was a Japanese man in Th e crucial issue: Detention or resettlement?: General San Francisco who started in about 1945-46. Esta talked with DeWitt’s proposal, the period of voluntary migration, early him, obtained a sample of his shoyu, and analyzed it. WRA thinking, the Salt Lake City conference, beginnings of student relocation, the movement into the beet fi elds, the 753. Product Name: Hinode Tofu [Japanese-style Soft , and theory of qualifi ed detention, the fi rst centrifugal impulse, the Chinese-style Firm]. basic leave regulations, the decision for “all out” relocation. Manufacturer’s Name: Hinode Tofu Seizo-sho (Hinode Tofu Th e price of prejudice: Th e FBI raids, the fi rst segregation Co.).

Manufacturer’s Address: 706 E. Sixth St. (at Towne Ave.), Los Angeles, California. Phone: TU. 3592. 754. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1947. March. Manufacturer’s Name: Shimabukuro (Kamehachi) Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Los Angeles City Directories. Later Tofu Fountain and Aloha Tofu Factory. 1938 and 1941. No listing for either Matsuda or Hinode Tofu Manufacturer’s Address: 802 Dillingham Blvd., Honolulu, companies. Oahu, Hawaii. Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 435. Category: Date of Introduction: 1947. June. “Food Products.” Hinode Tofu Seizô-sho, Hinode Tofu Co., New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 706 E. 6th St., Los Angeles. Phone: TU 3592. 1951. Kamehachi Shimabukuro Tofu (Kamehachi Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Shimabukuro, proprietor). 802 Dillingham Blvd., Honolulu. Directory]. 1952, p. 310. Under “Food Manufacturers.” In Not listed 1952. Note that the Tofu Fountain/Aloha Tofu Japanese: Hinode Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: Hinode Tofu Factory sprang up out of this location in 1953. Letter from Co., 706 E. 6th St., Los Angeles, California. Phone: TU. 3592. Kazu Uehara. 1982. Th e company he bought in 1950 fi rst Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 679. started making tofu in June 1947, and was founded by Directory entry, under “Food Products Mfg.” In Japanese: Kamehachi Shimabukuro. Hinode Tofu-ten. In English: Hinode Tofu Co., 600 E. 4th St., Los Angeles, Calif. Phone: MA4-9067. 755. Product Name: Age: French Fried Soy Bean Cakes Talk with Shoan Yamauchi in at Soyfoods Center (Agé). (Lafayette, California). 1982. Aug. 11. Th e former owners of Manufacturer’s Name: Hinode Tofu Co. Tomoe Tofu Co. (Mr. Tomoe and probably a partner) started Manufacturer’s Address: Sixth St. and Towne Ave., Los Hinode Tofu Co. in March 1947 at Sixth St. and Towne Ave. Angeles, California. Th ey made 1,500 cakes of tofu a day. Mr. Shoan Yamauchi Date of Introduction: 1947. November. and his wife, Shizuko, purchased the company in late 1947. Ingredients: Soy beans, water, soy bean oil, food grade lime, When they began production in Nov. 1947 at 6th St. and magnesium chloride (1979). Towne Ave., they made only three products: Japanese-style Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1.5 oz plastic bag. soft tofu, Chinese-style fi rm tofu, and agé (deep-fried tofu How Stored: Refrigerated. pouches). Six years later he moved the company to 4th St. New Product–Documentation: Label. 1979. 5.5 by 5.5 inches. and Towne Ave. Plastic. Red and yellow on clear plastic. Made by Matsuda Interview with Bill Lee of Wy Ky. 1982. June 29. “Wing & Hinode, Los Angeles, California 90013. Talk with Shoan Chong Lung was the fi rst Chinese company to try to break Yamauchi. 1988. He introduced this product when he began into the Los Angeles tofu market, which was controlled by to run the company in November 1947. Matsuda-Hinode. Th ey tried in 1952 but Hinode kept them out. Th ey now make bean sprouts.” Note: Both this company 756. Product Name: Tofu, and Agé. and the Hinode Rice Co-op had the same brand for many Manufacturer’s Name: Kiba Tofu-ten (Oriental Food Store). years, but the rice co-op has the earlier trademark. In 1983 Manufacturer’s Address: 418 Island Ave., San Diego, CA they told Hinode Tofu to cease and desist from using the 92101. Phone: F. 9-3383. trademark. Date of Introduction: 1947. December. Pantry Supermarkets. 1983. “Double coupons!” (Ad). Los How Stored: Refrigerated. Angeles Times. Feb. 24. p. SG3. Th e section titled “Oriental New Product–Documentation: Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku foods” states: “Hinode Japanese tofu 19 oz.–59¢... Hinode [Japanese American Times Directory]. 1952, p. 404. Under Chinese tofu 20 oz. 59¢.” “San Diego, Calif.” In Japanese: Kiba Tofu-ten. In English: Talk with Shoan Yamauchi. 1988. Oct. 23. Th is product Oriental Food Store, 418 Island Ave., San Diego, California. was introduced when they started the business in 1947. Phone: F. 9-3383. Note: Kawamoto Tofu Shop was previous Talk with Art Mio of Morinaga. 1990. March 9. Hinoichi located at this address. tofu is good quality because it is stored under dairy Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. refrigeration temperatures from the time it is made until it Owner is listed as Dwayne [Koba]. is sold. Southern California is the only area in America that Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu merchandises tofu properly, in the dairy case–even though (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops most people think it sells better in produce. Mr. Yamauchi and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 393. Oriental Groceries, 418 of Hinoichi insists that any tofu of his sold in Los Angeles Island Ave., San Diego, California 92101. Phone: 714-239- be sold in the dairy case. When Hinoichi makes tofu, as for 3237. Owner: Not given. Frieda’s Finest, they pack it in a wax coated case and put ice Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1979. July. New Tofu Shops & Soy on top of it, so when it gets on the truck going out across Dairies in the West. Contact: Dwayne [Koba]. Th e company America it is in good shape. name is now given as San Diego Soy Dairy.

Soyfoods Center. 1980. Sept. Tofu shops and soy dairies the Kobas for a few weeks and showed them how to make in the West (2 pages, typeset). Gives the company’s name, both tofu and agé, but they improved on the process quite a address, and phone number. Owner: Dwayne. bit. Th e Kobas made only those two products for the next 33 J.D. 1981. Reader (San Diego, CA). Nov. 25. p. 3. “Nofu” years. Th ey quit in Feb. 1982, when the city torn down their Th e Koba family of Oriental groceries has been producing building, Oriental Groceries. He has no old articles about his handmade tofu in San Diego for 33 years, since late 1947. work with tofu. Th ey will be forced to stop in early 1982, when the city tears Letter from Haruki and Michiko Koba. 1989. Nov. 30. down their building to make a park. When they bought this company, in Dec. 1947, it was located Talk with Gary Stein. 1988. Feb. 17. He started an 18 at 418 Island Ave., San Diego, CA 92101. Th ey never moved month apprenticeship with Mr. Haruki Koba in about 1977. the location. Th ey renamed it to “Oriental Groceries” in 1948. Mr. Haruki Koba said at about that time that he had been Th ey have no articles, labels, or other documents about the making tofu for 30 years, probably in San Diego. Th e original company. tofu recipe had come from Japan. Wayne is now involved with computers. Mr. Koba lives at Point Loma, a suburb of 757. Product Name: Aloha Barbecue Sauce. San Diego. Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Shoyu Co. Ltd. Talk with Gary Stein. 1989. Oct. 25. No one ever Manufacturer’s Address: 609 Waiakamilo Rd., Honolulu, considered changing the name of Oriental Groceries to San Oahu, Hawaii. Diego Soy Dairy (SDSD). Rather they talked about starting Date of Introduction: 1947. a new company named SDSD, affi liated with Oriental Ingredients: Water, salt, soy beans, wheat fl our, sugar, garlic, Groceries but aimed at marketing tofu to the Caucasian ginger, caramel coloring, and 1/10 of 1% sodium benzoate. market. Th is never happened, at least never on labels, legally Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 12 fl uid oz. or offi cially. Th e fi rst time SDSD was used was when Gary How Stored: Shelf stable. started his own company. Gary was very clear with Mr. Haruki Koba and his son, Dwayne (who did the day to day teaching) that he and his friend Todd Takeuchi wanted to start their own tofu company, but that they did not intend to compete with the Koba family in the Oriental market (Japanese and Chinese restaurants and food stores, plus drop-in customers). Gary and Todd went out and started getting new customers; they took production from 90 lb/ day to 300 lb/day in about 1979. But there were personal and ethnic problems between Todd (who was an Americanized Japanese) and the Koba family and Todd found it diffi cult to stay. Th ere were many communication problems and misunderstandings, but no ill will. Dwayne wanted to get out New Product–Documentation: Black-and-white photo of of the company. Just when they got a packaging machine, rectangular Label. “Aloha Barbecue Sauce. Time-saving. the whole thing fell apart. Gary and Todd left in late 1980, Ready-to-use. Quick tasty preparation. Steak: Soak for 6 and their fi rst product, tofu was on the market in April 1981 minutes for each ¼ inch of thickness. Baste while broiling. at 2965 5th Ave. It did not compete with Oriental Groceries’ (Best over charcoal). Chicken: Cut into pieces and soak from tofu. Oriental Groceries remained in business under the Koba ½ hour to 1 hour. Baste while broiling. Spare ribs: Cut into 3 family’s management until about 1982, when the building inch pieces and soak about ½ hour. Fry or broil to taste. Fish: was torn down. By that time Haruki wanted to retire anyway. Soak steaks or fi llets for about ½ hour. Fry or broil to taste. Gary bought their packaging machine. Always best with Aloha Barbecue Sauce. Ask for the best... Talk with Haruki Koba, former owner of Oriental Aloha.” Groceries. 1989. Oct. 25. (1488 Guizot St., San Diego, Ad by Aloha Shoyu Co., Ltd. in Hui Manaolana. 1956. CA 92107: Phone 619-222-3692). In May 1945 Germany Japanese Foods: (Tested Recipes). Honolulu, Hawaii. See surrendered, ending World War II in Europe. Th at month Mr. p. 16. “Time saving, ready to use, quick tasty preparation.” Koba was discharged from the U.S. Army–he had fought in Steak, chicken, spare ribs, fi sh. “Always best with Aloha France and Italy. In December 1947 he and his wife, Michiko, Barbecue Sauce.” bought an existing tofu business (on Island St., between 4th Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. and 5th) from Mr. Yoshio Kawamoto, a second-generation “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Shows (nisei) Japanese, who made tofu and agé, and had been two labels and gives the address. Th e company made and still making them, but not very profi tably, for 1½-2 years. He makes HVP soy sauce, and is still in business. Letter from cannot recall the business name. Mr. Kawamoto stayed with Takao Nihei. 1988. July 19. Th e company is still in business

758. Product Name: Club Shoyu, Mitsuba Soy Sauce, Hilo Shoyu (All “Genuine Brewed Shoyu”). Manufacturer’s Name: Brewery Industries Ltd. Manufacturer’s Address: 45 Omao St., Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Phone: 3079. Date of Introduction: 1947. Ingredients: Club: Water, soybeans, wheat, salt, caramel coloring, and 1/10 of 1% of sodium benzoate. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: ½ gallon bottle. How Stored: Shelf stable.

Similar photos of Labels for Mitsuba Soy Sauce and Hilo Shoyu. Th ese had similar ingredients and similar text. Th e Hilo Shoyu was produced for the mainland USA. Ad by Brewery Industries Ltd. in Hui Manaolana. 1956. Japanese Foods: (Tested Recipes). Honolulu, Hawaii. See p. 110. “Buraku.” Y, Hata & Co., Ltd., Ala Moana Market Center, Warehouse #1. Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Directory. 1957. p. 209. Brewery Industries Ltd. (Teruo Togashi, manager). Brewers of quality club, Hilo, and Mitsuba shoyu, 45 Omao, Hilo, Island of Hawaii. P.O. Box 1462. 1960 Directory. Hilo and Mitsuba Shoyu distributed on Hawaii and Oahu by Y. Hata & Co. Ltd., on Maui by Valley Isle Produce, and on Kauai by New Product–Documentation: Black-and-white photo of American Factors Ltd. (See yellow page 68). We have this early rectangular Label. Probably about 1947. Club Shoyu. advertisement. Hawaii’s quality soy sauce. Genuine brewed shoyu. Excellent Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. sauce for sukiyaki, steaks, chops, barbecue meat, chop sui “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Shows [suey], stew, fried and steamed fi sh, gravy, roast, spare ribs all three labels. States that company was founded in 1947. [pork], and salad. $1.45 per ½ gallon. Illustrations of wheat Gives address. Still in business. and soy. Brewed and bottled by Brewery Industries, Ltd., Hilo, Hawaii. 759. Product Name: Fuji Soy / Shoyu. Hawaiian Soy Sauce. Manufacturer’s Name: Fuji Sake Brewing Co. Ltd. Manufacturer’s Address: 539 Cooke St., Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1947. Ingredients: Water, soya beans, wheat, salt, caramel coloring, and 1/10 of 1% sodium benzoate as chemical preservative. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1 gallon. How Stored: Shelf stable. New Product–Documentation: Not listed in the index under soy sauce in any Honolulu city directory from 1905 to 1966; Black-and-white photo of Label. About 1947. Oval. “Brewed under natural process.” Ad by Fuji Sake Brewing Co., Ltd. in Hui Manaolana. 1951. Japanese Foods: (Tested Recipes). Honolulu, Hawaii. See p. 39. “For added taste in your menus use... Fuji Soy.” 539 Cooke St. Note: Th is same ad appears on the same page in the

Co. (George T. and Henry T. Higa; Doris K. and Seiboku Kiyabu), Manufacturers of Miso and Soy. 1714 Mary. Tel. 87488. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1953. p. 10. Miso (Soy bean paste). Hawaiian Miso & Soy Company, 1714 Mary St. Honolulu City Directory. 1956. Th e company is the only miso manufacturer listed for this year. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” States that Hawaiian Miso Shoyu Kaisha was founded by William Higa. Gives address. No founding date given. Still in business. Wm. Higa. 1980. History of Miso Companies in Hawaii; Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 234, 240, 255. Th e company was founded in 1947 by George Higa Sr., William Higa, George Higa Jr., Hisako Higa, and Alvin Higa. Th ey left American Hawaiian Soy Co. By the 1980s HMS was Hawaii’s largest miso manufacturer, and the second largest in the USA with 512 tonnes/year in 1983. Ad in Hawaii Herald. 1983. 1956 edition of this book. Oct. 7. p. 5. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Shows 762. Product Name: Kokusui Miso. one label. Gives address. No longer in business. Letter from Manufacturer’s Name: Nichibei Shuzo Kabushiki Kaisha, Ltd. Takao Nihei. 1988. July 19. Th is product was fi rst made in (Japanese-American Sake Brewery). 1947 by Fuji Sake Brewing Co. Ltd. Th ey closed in 1963. Manufacturer’s Address: 1965 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo, Island of Hawaii. 760. Product Name: Fuji Koji Miso. Date of Introduction: 1947. Manufacturer’s Name: Fuji Sake Brewing Company, Ltd. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of (Fuji Shuzo K.K.). Manufacturers. 1953. p. 10. Miso (Soy bean paste). Nichibei Manufacturer’s Address: 539 Cooke St., Honolulu, Oahu, Shuzo Kabushiki Kaisha, Ltd., 1965 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo, Hawaii. Hawaii. “Kokusui.” Date of Introduction: 1947. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. New Product–Documentation: Not listed in the index under “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” States miso in any Honolulu city directory from 1905 to 1966; that Nichibei Shuzo (Sake Brewery) K.K. makes Kokusui Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1953. p. 10. Miso (Soy Miso. Address: Waiakea, Hilo, Hawaii. No longer in business. bean paste). Fuji Sake Brewing Company, Ltd., 539 Cooke St. Th ey started making sake in 1948 and closed the business “Fuji.” Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542- in 1956. Wm. Higa. 1980. History of Miso Companies in 49. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Hawaii. Gives company name as Kokusui Miso Factory; No States that Fuji Shuzo K.K. made Fuji Koji Miso. Address: longer in business. Letter from Takao Nihei. 1988. July 19. 539 Cooke St., Honolulu. No longer in business. Th ey started Th e manufacturer was Nichibei Shuzo, not Kokusui Miso making sake in 1948 and closed the business in about 1963. Factory. Th e product was launched in 1947. Th ey closed in Wm. Higa. 1980. History of Miso Companies in Hawaii; 1956. Th e company president was Kazuo Miyazaki. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 234. Th e company, Fujii Miso Co., was founded ca. 1941-1954. 763. Product Name: Kokusui Shoyu. No longer in business. Letter from Takao Nihei. 1988. July Manufacturer’s Name: Nichibei Shuzo KK. (Japanese- 19. Th e product was introduced in about 1947. Th e company American Sake Brewery). closed in 1963. Manufacturer’s Address: Waiakea, Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1947. 761. Product Name: Maru-Hi Miso [Mellow White, or Red], New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai and Shoyu. Directory. 1957. p. 454. Listed as Kokusui Co. Ltd. (Kamezo Manufacturer’s Name: Hawaiian Miso & Soy Co. Matsuno, president). 1965 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo, Island of Manufacturer’s Address: 1714 Mary St., Honolulu, Oahu, HI Hawaii. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542- 96819. Phone: 87488. Later 808-841-7354. 49. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” No Date of Introduction: 1947. label. Gives address. No longer in business. Letter from Takao New Product–Documentation: Directory of the City and Nihei. 1988. July 19. Kokusui Shoyu was launched in 1947. County of Honolulu. 1949. p. 354. Hawaiian Miso and Soy Closed in 1956. Mr. Nihei deleted Panda Shoyu as one of this

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 172 company’s brands. Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 432. Vertical ¼-page ad. Top one-fourth of ad is in English: 764. Product Name: Tofu. “Sacramento Tofu Mfg. Co., 1915 6th St., Sacramento 14, Manufacturer’s Name: Sakara-fu Tofu-ten (Sacramento Tofu California.” In Japanese: Sakara-fu Tofu Seizôsho. Tofu, Co.) aburaage, konnyaku, nama udon [uncooked udon wheat Manufacturer’s Address: 1521 Fift h St., between O and P noodles]. Shop phone: 447-2682. Home phone: 447-1794. streets. Aft er about 1949: 1915 Sixth St., Sacramento, CA (Directory entry p. 433; at end of Japanese section is the word 95814. Phone: 916-447-2682. “Kunishi”). Date of Introduction: 1947. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. How Stored: Refrigerated. Sacramento Tofu Mfg. Co., 1915 6th St., 95814. Phone 447- New Product–Documentation: Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku 2682, Mr. Kunishi. [Japanese American Times Directory]. 1952, p. 174. Under Sacramento City Directory. 1978. Sacramento Tofu Co. “Factories.” In Japanese: Sakura-fu Tofu-ten. In English: (Tom H. Kunishi), baked goods, 1915 6th St. Sacramento Tofu Co., 1521 5th St., Sacramento. Phone: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu HU 4-3274. Note: First listing for Sacramento Tofu Co. (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Sacramento City Directory. 1953. 2nd listing for Sacramento and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 393. Same company name Tofu Co. (Takeo Hiroshige, Tom Kunishi), rear 1521 5th. and address. Phone: 916-447-2682. Owner: Mr. Kunishi. Note: In 1952, Tom & Michiko Kunishi resided at 1519½ 5th. Soyfoods Center. 1980. Sept. Tofu shops and soy dairies 1956 listing same but people are now Tom H. Kunishi and in the West (2 pages, typeset). Gives the company’s name, Takeo Hiroshige, soy bean products. 1960 listing: Sacramento address, and phone number. Owner: Mr. Kunishi. Tofu Company (T.H. Kunishi), Manufacturers of Soy Bean Sylva, Bob. 2006. “Sacramento Tofu Co. soon to celebrate Products, Fresh Noodles, Wholesale and Retail, 1915 6th. Tel. 60th anniversary.” Sacramento Bee. Aug. 2. Sacramento Tofu Gilbert 8-3274. Residence Tel. Hickory 7-1749. Co. was founded in 1947 by Hiroshi “Tom” Kunishi, father of the present owner, Alvin Kunishi. Interview with Alvin Kunishi. 2006. Aug. 10. “Early history of Sacramento Tofu Co.” Alvin’s mother (whose husband, Hiroshi “Tom” Kunishi, was a founder of the tofu company) oft en told him that the company was founded in 1947. But he has no written or documentary proof of this date.

765. Komaki (Joe T.); Kalifornians Enterprise. comp. 1947-. Chicago Japanese American year book. Chicago, Illinois: Californians Enterprise. 28 cm. [Eng]* • Summary: Two-page spread in Chicago Japanese American year book. 1949. Photos of the covers of two editions suggest that that fi rst edition was 1947 (6,500 copies printed); For the 1948 edition, 9,000 copies were printed. Talk with Karl Matsushita, director, Japanese-American National Library in San Francisco. 2008. Feb. 1. Th ese directories were fi rst published aft er World War II. His library has one two volumes of this periodical: 1949 (5th ed) and 1950 (6th ed). Th is would suggest that the 1st edition was published in 1945. Not at OCLC / WorldCat. Address: Chicago, Illinois.

766. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Hashimoto Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 943 E Street, Fresno, CA 93706. Date of Introduction: 1947? New Product–Documentation: Talk with Brad Kubota, owner of Fresno Tofu Co. 1990. Nov. 28. He thinks this company became Star Tofu. It was run by a Mr. Joe Hashimoto, a nisei.

Talk with Mr. Hashimoto of Nichibei Nichi in Fresno. seller. Funabashi Shôten. 1209 4th St., Sacramento. Phone 1990. Nov. 29. He thinks this shop started shortly aft er World 2-2934. Maruman Shoyu Co., C. Sakamoto, proprietor, Route War II, in about 1947. Th e owner may have been Mr. Tokubo 8, Box 535, Sacramento, California. Hashimoto. Note: Th e relationship between Funabashi Shoten and Maruman Shoyu is unclear? Does Maruman make the shoyu 767. Product Name: Tofu. and Funabashi sell it? Address: 1206 4th St., Sacramento, Manufacturer’s Name: Nii Tofu. California. Phone: 2-3924. Manufacturer’s Address: Dinuba, Califorina. Date of Introduction: 1947? 769. Hokubei Shokuryo Shokai (North American Food New Product–Documentation: Talk with Brad Kubota, Distributing Co.). 1948. [Exporters–Importers–Wholesale owner of Fresno Tofu Co. 1990. Dec. 4. He has heard from Distributors (Ad)]. In: Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Kikan Japanese-American old-timers now living in Fresno that a Fukkôshi Narabi Jûshoroku [Evacuation Resettlement Report, tofu shop name Nii Tofu was in business in Dinuba aft er 1948 Directory]. 138 + 243 p. Page 245 (unnumbered, near World War II. Dinuba (pronounced dai-NU-bah) is located end). [Eng; jap] 30 miles southeast of Fresno. • Summary: Ad (full page). Top one-fourth in English. In Japanese: Th e main company offi ce is in Walnut Grove. 768. Funabashi Shôten. 1948. Maruman Shoyu [Maruman Branches are at Boyle (?) High Market, 2506 E. First St., Shoyu (Ad)]. In: Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Kikan Fukkôshi Los Angeles, and Star Market, Karn St. and G. St. in Fresno. Narabi Jûshoroku [Evacuation Resettlement Report, 1948 Selling Red Star Jirushi (brand) Shoyu, Fuji Jirushi (brand) Directory]. 138 + 243 p. Page 98. [Eng; jap] Shoyu, and Shin Kikkoman Shoyu. Note: Th is “Shin Kikkoman Shoyu” is probably not related to real Kikkoman Shoyu made in Noda, Japan. Address: 1. 2506 E. First St., Los Angeles, California; 2. P.O. Box 446, Walnut Grove, California.. Phone: Walnut Grove 3436.

770. Product Name: Tofu, aburaage, and ganmodoki. Manufacturer’s Name: Itaya Tofu-ten (Tofu Shop). Manufacturer’s Address: Rt. 6 Box 273, French Camp, near Stockton, California. Phone: 3-8042. Date of Introduction: 1948. May. New Product–Documentation: Entry in Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Evacuation-Resettlement Report. Directory of manufacturers, p. 138 (top left center). In Japanese: Itaya Tofu-ya. In English: Itaya Tofu Ya, Rt. 6, Box 273, Stockton, California. Phone: 3-8042. Ad (1/8 page) in same Nichi Bei Times 1948 Report. p. 143. Lower right center. Th e top one-fourth of this ad is in English: Itaya Tofu Ya. Tofu, aburage, soy beans products and vegetables. Rt. 6, Box 273, Stockton. Phone: 3-8042. In Japanese: Itaya Tofu-ya. Tofu. Aburage. Ganmodoki. Haarei (Harry?) Itaya Toshio. Ad (1/8 page) in Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 310. All in Japanese: Itaya Tofu-ten. Making and selling tofu and aburaage. French camp. Mr. Harry Itaya. Phone: 3-8042. Directory entry, p. 311. Under “Grocery.” Itaya Tofu-ten, Itaya Tofu Co., Rt. 6 Box 273, Stockton. Phone: 3-8042. Note: French Camp is located about 4 miles south of the center of Stockton. • Summary: Ad (¼ page, lower left ). All in Japanese: Th is shoyu was produced by an authentic Japanese method. Dealer 771. Mandarin Market. 1948. [Meat, fi sh, vegetables and / seller. groceries (Ad)]. In: Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Kikan Fukkôshi Another ¼-page ad (p. 110) has the company’s logo at its Narabi Jûshoroku [Evacuation Resettlement Report, 1948 center. Th e top 2/3, which is in Japanese, states: Th e shoyu Directory]. 138 + 243 p. Page 140. [Eng; jap] was produced in an authentic Japanese method. Dealer / • Summary: Ad (¼ page, lower left ). Th e top one-third is in

English. In Japanese: Mandarin Maaketto. Fish and other Japanese products. Manager: Kanichi Ooshima. Selling 776. Product Name: Miso, Shoyu. shoyu. Address: 139 S. Center St., Stockton, California. Manufacturer’s Name: Mukai Brewing Co. Phone: 2-2502; 3-5615. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 171, Isleton, California. Phone: 2201. 772. Product Name: [Maru Man Shoyu]. Date of Introduction: 1948. May. Foreign Name: Maru Man Shoyu. New Product–Documentation: Entry in Nichi Bei Times. Manufacturer’s Name: Maru Man Shoyu Co. (Maru Man 1948. Evacuation-Resettlement Report. Directory of Shoyu Seizô-sho). manufacturers, p. 137 (top center). In Japanese: Mukai Miso Manufacturer’s Address: Route 8, Box 535, Sacramento, Shoyu Seizôsho. In English: Mukai Brewing Co., P.O. Box California. 528, Isleton, California. Phone: Not listed. Date of Introduction: 1948. May. Also: Ad (full page) in Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Kikan New Product–Documentation: Entry in Nichi Bei Times. Fukkôshi Narabi Jûshoroku [Evacuation Resettlement 1948. Evacuation-Resettlement Report. Directory of Report, 1948 Directory]. Full page (p. 246, unnunbered near manufacturers, p. 100 (top right). In Japanese: Maru Man rear). Top one-fourth of this ad is in English. “Brewed by Shoyu Seizô-sho. In English: Maru Man Shoyu Co., Rt. 8, Box Mukai Brewing Co., P.O. Box 528, Isleton, California.” Th e 535, Sacramento. No phone number is given. company logo is a bold hexagon inside of which are the two Page 98: Ad (¼ page, lower left ). All in Japanese: Th is characters for Nagaiki?, Nagao? Chosei? (“Long Life”; Too shoyu was produced by an authentic Japanese method. Dealer many ways of reading these two characters). Th ey make: / seller. Nama Koji (fresh koji). Aka Miso (red miso). Mugi Miso Note: It is not clear whether this company actually makes (barley miso). Tekka (written with the characters for iron + the shoyu it sells. On page 100 it is included in a list of fl ower instead of the typical iron + fi re) Miso. Joban Miso. manufacturers. Kinzanji Miso. Kocho Miso. Moromi. Ad (¼ page) in Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 773. Mitsuwa Shokai (Mitsuwa Company). 1948. Modaan 304. Th e company logo is a bold hexagon inside of which Bôeki Shôkai [Marusho Shoyu–Best quality (Ad)]. In: are the two characters for Nagao or Nagasei. Th e ad reads: Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Kikan Fukkôshi Narabi Jûshoroku In English: Trade mark. Soy sauce. In Japanese: Honzukuri [Evacuation Resettlement Report, 1948 Directory]. 138 + 243 [made in the real traditional way]. Saijô [Th e best]. Honba p. Rear cover. [Eng; jap] shoyu [Authentic Japanese-style soy sauce]. Directory entry • Summary: Ad (full page, rear cover). Th e company at Isleton, California under “Business” (p. 302), Mukai sells Marushô Shoyu. Address: 309 “O” St., Sacramento, Brewing Co. (Jap: Kikko Chôsei Miso Shôyu Jôzô-sho), P.O. California. Phone: 2-3440. Box 171, Isleton. No phone. Ad (1/8 page) in Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese 774. M.K. Grocery. 1948. [General merchandise: Fish–meat– American Times Directory]. 1952, p. 218. Th e top 1/3 of this tofu]. In: Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Kikan Fukkôshi Narabi ad is in English: Mukai Brewing Co., P.O. Box 171, Isleton, Jûshoroku [Evacuation Resettlement Report, 1948 Directory]. Calif. Phone 2201. In Japanese (right to left ): Honzukuri. 138 + 243 p. Page 126. [Eng; jap] Saijô [Made in the real way. Th e best]. Kikko Nagao? • Summary: Ad (¼ page, lower left ). Th e top one-third is (Nagasei?) [Th eir trade mark]. Honba shoyu [Authentic in English. Japanese: M.K. Gurosari. Selling tofu [Note: shoyu]. It doesn’t say they are making it]. Shop owners: George Matsumoto, Taamu (Tame?) Kato. Th e address is written 777. Murano Co. Groceries. 1948. [Murano Co. (Ad)]. In: again in Japanese. Address: 107 C St., Marysville, California. Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Kikan Fukkôshi Narabi Jûshoroku Phone: 2-3924. [Evacuation Resettlement Report, 1948 Directory]. 138 + 243 p. Page 142. [Eng; jap] 775. Modern Food Products Co. (Modaan Bôeki Shôkai). • Summary: Ad (1/8 page, lower right). Th e top one-fourth 1948. Modaan Bôeki Shôkai [Modern Food Products Co. is in English. In Japanese: Maruno Shoten. Selling tofu. (Ad)]. In: Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Kikan Fukkôshi Narabi Address: 228 S. Monroe St., Stockton, California. Phone: Jûshoroku [Evacuation Resettlement Report, 1948 Directory]. 3-3752. 138 + 243 p. Unnumbered inside front cover. [Eng; jap] • Summary: Ad (full page, inside front cover). Th e company 778. Nakayama Shokai. 1948. Marunaka Brand Shoyu (Ad)]. sells Marushô Shoyu. Address: 1. 24 California St., San In: Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Kikan Fukkôshi Narabi Jûshoroku Francisco 11, California; 2. 228 E. 2nd St., Los Angeles 12, [Evacuation Resettlement Report, 1948 Directory]. 138 + 243 California. Phone: EXbrook 2-1531 [SF]; MAdison 6-4335 p. Page 11. [Eng; jap] [LA]. • Summary: Ad (¼ page, top right). In Japanese: Yûshû

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 175 shoyu [excellent shoyu]. Completely safe. Good fl avor. If 782. San Okin Shokai (San Joaquin Mercantile Co.). 1948. you fi nd a checked proof seal on the bottle, you can use it [Jobbers–Distributors (Ad)]. In: Nichi Bei Times. 1948. safely. Nakayama Shokai: Exclusive dealer. Also at 6th St. in Kikan Fukkôshi Narabi Jûshoroku [Evacuation Resettlement Oakland. Address: 1418 Turk St., San Francisco, California. Report, 1948 Directory]. 138 + 243 p. Page 178. [Eng; jap] Phone: WEst 1-3861; WAlnut 1-9833. • Summary: Ad (¼ page, lower left ). Top one-fourth in English. In Japanese: Hanamurasaki (brand) shoyu. Fujimoto 779. Nichi-Bei Jijisha. 1948/31-. Kikan fukkôshi narabi Kanemasa (brand) miso. Address: 1305 I St., Reedley, jûshoroku [Evacuation resettlement report, 1948 directory]. California. Phone: 424. San Francisco, California: Nichi-Bei Jijisha. 138 + 243 p. May 31. Illust. 25 cm. [Eng; Jap] 783. Product Name: Tofu, and Koji. • Summary: Note: Th e 1948 directory is in the 1948 Manufacturer’s Name: Tofu oyobi Koji Seizo-sho (Fresno Evacuation Resettlement Report. On the last unnumbered Tofu Shop). page of photos near the front (page 11) half-page photos Manufacturer’s Address: 943 E Street, Fresno, California. show: (1) Th e front of the Nichi Bei Times offi ce in San Phone: 4-4317. Francisco, with three cars parked out in front. (2) Two men Date of Introduction: 1948. May. standing in front of the huge printing press, with two large How Stored: Refrigerated. rolls of paper in place. New Product–Documentation: Entry in Nichi Bei Times. Page 87 (top center left ) states (in characters), under 1948. Evacuation-Resettlement Report. Directory of the heading Tofu shops, there are 4 workers and 2 shops in manufacturers, p. 164 (top center). In Japanese: Tofu oyobi Marysville. Note: Th e explanations for the numbers cannot be Koji Seizô-sho. In English: Fresno Tofu Shop, 943 E St., found on this page but on the previous page. We are guessing Fresno, California. Phone: 4-4727. / Hokubei Mainichi Year that that larger number is the number of workers and the Book. 1951, p. 352. Category: Tofu, Candy, Dressmaking small number is the number of shops. Shops.” Fukumoto Tofu Seizô-sho, Fresno Tofu Shop, 943 E Page 90 (top right): Tofu shop, Stockton. Just one shop is St., Fresno. Phone: 4-4317. listed but with no name or address. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Page 92 (top left ): One shoyu maker in the Walnut Grove Directory]. 1952, p. 255. Under “Stores.” In Japanese: area of Isleton (California); no name or address is given. Furesuno Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: Fresno Tofu Shop, 943 Note: Th is could well be Mukai Brewing Co., which in Feb. E St., Fresno, California. Phone: 4-4317. Note: By 1970 Goto 1951 was located at P.O. Box 171, Isleton, California. Address: Tofu Shop (Gotô) was located at this address. Ellis Street, San Francisco, California. 784. Yamate Brothers (Yamate Burazaasu). 1948. [Imports– 780. Pacifi c Mutual Sales Inc. (Taiheiyo Kyodo Shoji Exports, Ltd. (Ad)]. In: Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Kikan Kabushiki-gaisha). 1948. Imports and exporters (Ad). In: Fukkôshi Narabi Jûshoroku [Evacuation Resettlement Nichi Bei Times. 1948. Kikan Fukkôshi Narabi Jûshoroku Report, 1948 Directory]. 138 + 243 p. Page 140. [Eng; jap] [Evacuation Resettlement Report, 1948 Directory]. 138 + 243 • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e top ¼ of the ad is in English; p. Page 143 (right half). [Eng; jap] the body is in Japanese. Top: Th e company was established • Summary: Ad (half page, vertical). Th e top one-fourth is in in 1921. Codes: Bentley, Commercial, Acme. Cable address: English. Company name with diacritics is: Taiheiyô Kyôdo Sayama–San Francisco. Shôji Kabushiki-gaisha. Th ey are the exclusive seller of Bottom: Th e company imports and sells: Bunka Shoyu Kurabu (Club) brand shoyu. Address: 1537 Buchanan St., San [Culture Shoyu] and U.S. Kanro Shoyu [Sweet Shoyu]. Francisco 15, California. Phone: JOrdan 7-4979. Owner: Mr. Sasato Yamate. Branch offi ce in Tokyo, Japan: Yakei Saka Nobori, Oomori, Tokto-to. Phone: Oomori 1313. 781. Pacifi c National Mercantile Co. 1948. [Ichi-Man Brand Shunin (manager): Mr. Sanzo Yamate. Address: 1619 Lyon St., Shoyu Sauce, Importer (Ad)]. In: Nichi Bei Times. 1948. San Francisco 15, California; 510 Battery St., San Francisco Kikan Fukkôshi Narabi Jûshoroku [Evacuation Resettlement 11, California.. Phone: WEst 1-8731; EXbrook 2-0764. Report, 1948 Directory]. 138 + 243 p. Page 8. [Eng; jap] • Summary: Ads (¼ page, lower left ). In Japanese: Over 30 785. Nichi-Bei Jiji Shinbunsha / Nichi Bei Times. 1948-1971. years of long shoyu making experience. Th is shoyu, made Nichibei jiji jûshoroku [Japanese American directory]. San by Honolulu, Fikushima Shoyu, is the strongest enemy of Francisco, California: Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. 500+ p. 22 cm. importing shoyu aft er the War. Th e quality of the product [Eng; Jap]* speaks for itself; good for use with sashimi [fresh, raw • Summary: Note: the 1948 directory is in the 1948 fi sh, thinly sliced], pickles, and Hiyayakko [Chilled Tofu]. Evacuation Resettlement Report. Address: Ellis Street, San Address: 1844 Buchanan St., San Francisco, California. Francisco, California.

786. Product Name: Aloha Shoyu. Ad by Aloha Shoyu Co., Ltd. in Hui Manaolana. 1951. Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Shoyu Co. Ltd. Japanese Foods: (Tested Recipes). Honolulu, Hawaii. See p. Manufacturer’s Address: 807-E Waiakamilo Rd., Honolulu, 50. “Ask for the best. It’s best because it’s Aloha Shoyu. Good Oahu, Hawaii. Phone: 87720. for: Barbecue. Sukiyaki. Flavoring.” Date of Introduction: 1948. 1964. Aloha Shoyu Company, Ltd., 807-E Waiakamilo Ingredients: Water, wheat fl our, salt, soy beans, sugar, Rd., Honolulu. Phone: 817411. Not listed in directories 1967- caramel coloring, and 1/10 of 1% sodium benzoate, a 68. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1969. p. 16. Aloha chemical preservative. Shoyu Co. Ltd. at 609 Waikamilo Rd. has only vinegar (no Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: ½ gallon. shoyu) listed as its product. How Stored: Shelf stable. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Shows two labels and gives the address. Th e company made and still makes HVP soy sauce, and is still in business. Letter from Takao Nihei. 1988. July 19. Th e company is still in business making amino acid shoyu. However, the company is not listed in any Honolulu directory from 1967–1987. Label. 4.25 by 3.75 inches. Paper. Red, black, brown, green, white on yellow.

787. Product Name: Tofu, and aburage. Manufacturer’s Name: Asato Shokuryohin-ten (Asato Soy Bean Food Shop). Manufacturer’s Address: 149 W. Division St., Chicago, Illinois. Phone: DElaware 7-1816. Date of Introduction: 1948. New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Shinpo-sha. 1948. Nyuyoku Benran: Tsuketari jushoroku, 1948-1949 nendo New Product–Documentation: Directory of the City and [New York Japanese American directory: 1948-1949]. Ad County of Honolulu. 1947-48. p. 52. Aloha Shoyu Co. section in middle of book. p. B-15. In Japanese: Th e original Ltd., Clarence S. Okita, president. Nobuichi Kaminaka, food store in Chicago. All Japanese foods. Makers of tofu and vice president. Manufacturers of shoyu and vinegar. 807e aburage. Ask for Asato brand tofu and aburage if you buy Waiakamilo Rd. Tel. 87720. Same in 1955 Directory. Not them in other stores. High grade California rice–Smith No. listed in the 1941-42 directory. Black-and-white photo of 500. Th ey also ship food packages to Japan. rectangular Label from about 1947. Aloha Shoyu Co. Ltd., Th e all-English directory at back of book states under 609 Waiakamilo Rd., Honolulu. Half gallon. Hawaii Directory Chicago–Groceries (p. 6): Asato Soy Bean Food Shop, 147 of Manufacturers: Vinegar. Division St. (10), DElaware 7-1816.

788. Product Name: Shoyu Sauce. Manufacturer’s Name: Eastern Manufacturing Co. Ltd. Manufacturer’s Address: 925 Kokea, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Phone: 86259. Date of Introduction: 1948. New Product–Documentation: Directory of the City and County of Honolulu. 1947-48. p. 246. Eastern Manufacturing Co. Ltd. Th omas M. Shaw, president-Manager. Manufacturer of Shoyu Sauce and Other Oriental and American Food Products. 925 Kokea. Tel. 86259. Th is company is listed but not indexed this year. It is indexed under soy manufacturers in 1949.

789. Product Name: Crown Soy. Manufacturer’s Name: George J. Russell & Co. Manufacturer’s Address: 913a Sheridan, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Phone: 903365.

Date of Introduction: 1948. New Product–Documentation: Directory of the City and County of Honolulu. 1947-48. p. 862. Russell George J. & Co. (George J. Russell, Kunichi Murata, Masaichi Akiyama, and Seigi Uehara). Importers and Wholesalers. Manufacturers of Crown Soy. 913a Sheridan. Tel. 903365. P.O. Box 1193. Cable Address “Crown.”

790. Product Name: Miso, and Shoyu. Manufacturer’s Name: Honolulu Miso & Shoyu Factory (Honoruru Miso Shoyu Seizo-gaisha). Manufacturer’s Address: 405d Buckle Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Phone: 66254. Date of Introduction: 1948. New Product–Documentation: Directory of the City and County of Honolulu. 1947-48. p. 392. Honolulu Miso & Shoyu Factory (Shigeo Yamada). Wholesale Miso & Shoyu. 405d Buckle Lane. Tel. 66254. Same in 1955 Directory. Note: (1) Shigeo Yamada was apparently making miso on Maui by 1935. (2) Th is is the only miso company in Honolulu listed in the early 1960s. Th e index category disappears in the 1961-62 directory. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1953. p. 10. Black-and-white photo of rectangular Label from about Miso (Soy bean paste). Honolulu Miso and Shoyu Factory. 1955. King Shoyu Co. Ltd., Honolulu. ½ gallon. Illustration 405 Buckle lane. of a cartoon stick fi gure king as the “I” in the word King. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. Wearing a tall crown. Page 143. Buyer’s Guide. Ad headed “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” States “Soy.” King Shoyu Co. Ltd., Manufacturers of the famous that Honolulu Miso, Shoyu Seizo K.K. was founded by Mr. King Soy Sauce. Broil King (Barbecue Sauce). For fi ner fl avor, Shigeo Yamada. Address: 405 Ruckle, Honolulu. No longer better cooking. in business. Wm. Higa. 1980. History of Miso Companies Ad by King Shoyu Co., Ltd. in Hui Manaolana. 1956. in Hawaii; Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd Japanese Foods: (Tested Recipes). Honolulu, Hawaii. See p. ed. p. 234. Th e company was founded ca. 1942-1950 by Mr. 50. “Th e king of barbecue sauces: Broil King. Ready mixed, Shigeo Yamada. No longer in business. richly fl avored, rightly blended.” 1215 Kona St., Honolulu. Phone: 66744. An illustration shows a bottle of Broil King 791. Product Name: King Shoyu. Soy Sauce, and Broil King Barbecue Sauce. Barbecue Sauce. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers: Vinegar. 1964. King Manufacturer’s Name: King Shoyu Factory. Renamed King Shoyu Co., Ltd. 1215 Kona St., Honolulu. Phone: 566744. Shoyu Co. Ltd. by 1955. Ad in Hawaii City Directory. 1968-69. p. 145. King Shoyu Manufacturer’s Address: 1215 Kona St. near Piikoi (P.O. Box Co. Ltd. Manufacturers of the famous King Soy Sauce and 976), Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Phone: 566-744. Broil King Teriyaki Sauce. Illustrations (line drawings) show Date of Introduction: 1948. both bottles and labels. Address: 1215 Kona near Piikoi, P.O. Ingredients: Water, wheat fl our, soy beans, salt, sugar, Box 976. Zip Code 96808. Not listed 1979. caramel coloring, and 1/10 of 1% sodium benzoate (chemical Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. preservative). “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Shows Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: ½ gallon or bottle. a label. Th ey make amino acid soy sauce. Th e company is still How Stored: Shelf stable. in business. Letter from Tadao Nihei. 1988. July 19. Th ey ran New Product–Documentation: Directory of the City and the business during the war, making chemical soy sauce, but County of Honolulu. 1947-48. p. 512. King Shoyu Factory closed in about 1978. Also made Barbecue Shoyu. (Jukichi, Yoshiko, Hideko, and Toshiko Murata) 1215 Kona. Tel. 66744. P.O. Box 976. Th is is the earliest listing 792. Product Name: Tofu. seen for this company. Not listed in 1941-42. Note: Th e Manufacturer’s Name: Matsuzaki (Sui) Tofu. 1947-48 Directory has the fi rst index category for “Shoyu Manufacturer’s Address: Wahiawa, Oahu, Hawaii. Manufacturers.” and King Shoyu Factory is the only company Date of Introduction: 1948. listed there. 1955 Directory. King Shoyu Co. Ltd., 1215 Kona. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1947-48. Sui Matsuzaki Tofu (Sui Matsuzaki, proprietor).

Wahiawa, Honolulu. Not listed 1951. 797. Hokubei Shinposha. 1948. Nyuyoku benran: Tsuketari jushoroku, 1948-1949 nendo [New York Japanese American 793. Product Name: Tofu. directory: 1948-1949]. New York, NY: Hokubei Shinposha. 53 Manufacturer’s Name: Nakamoto (Yonosuke) Tofu. + 33 + 99 + 33 p.. Illust. 24 cm. [Eng; Jap] Manufacturer’s Address: 971a Akepo Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, • Summary: Th is book, which is read from “back to Hawaii. front” (except for the last 33 pages, which are in English) Date of Introduction: 1948. is approximately 70% in Japanese and 30% in English. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. It is divided into the following sections, each paginated 1947-48. Yonosuke Nakamoto Tofu (Yonosuke Nakamoto, separately: (1) Pictorial history (53 p.). proprietor). 971a Akepo Lane, Honolulu. 1951 Directory. (2) Who’s who (33 p. One person per page, with a photo Changed to Mrs. Matsue Nakamoto Tofu (Mrs. Matsue Nakamoto, widow Yonosuke, proprietor). Address same. Not listed 1954.

794. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Sumie (Hideo) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 1337 N. King, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1948. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1947-48. Hideo Sumiye Tofu (Hideo Sumiye, proprietor). 1337 N. King, Honolulu. Not listed 1951.

795. Product Name: Tofu, Aburaage Manufacturer’s Name: Asato Soy Bean Food Shop. Manufacturer’s Address: 149 West Division [Chicago, Illinois]. Phone: DElaware 1816. Date of Introduction: 1948. January. New Product–Documentation: Chicago Shimpo, Inc. 1958. Chicago Japanese American directory. p. 40. A large photo shows the shop, looking in through the big glass window and a brief biography in both Japanese and English). (a) A and open door. A sign over the window bears the name of full-page biography of Mr. Shinsaku Nagano (p. 11) states: the shop, but the smaller sign in decals on the window reads “Soy bean sauce” was virtually unknown in the USA until “Asato Food Shop. T.N. Asato, Proprietor.” 1906, when it was introduced and subsequently popularized To the left of the photo is a handwritten ad, entirely in by an enterprising Issei [fi rst generation] pioneer from Japanese, which states: Asato Shokuryôhinten [the name of Chicago, Shinsaku Nagano. He was the fi rst to successfully the store in the photo]. Shokuryô-hin issai, Sengyo. Oroshi. commercialize “shoyu,” and today he continues to direct the Kouri. Tofu, aburage wa saishin-shiki kôjô de mainichi seizô. vast commercial enterprises of his Fuji Trading Co., founded Shio-senbei. Mochigashi. In English: Asato Food Shop. All 32 years ago. Th is company, a large scale manufacturer food products. Fresh fi sh. Wholesale and retail. We make and canner of “soy bean sauce” and Oriental foods, is now tofu and aburaage everyday in our newest plant. Salted rice located at 441-459 W. Huron St. [at N. Hudson Ave.], in crackers / senbei. Japanese mochigashi sweets [mochi fi lled central Chicago, Illinois. “A native of Shizuoka prefecture with sweet azuki paste (an)]. [Japan], which he left in 1906, Nagano gained prominence for relief work during the Depression years of the 1930s 796. Hamada Brokerage Co. 1948. Importer-Exporter and when he opened his factories at huge expense to house the wholesale jobbers (Ad). In: Hokubei Shinpo-sha. 1948. unemployed. Th is magnanimous gesture, duly noted by the Nyuyoku Benran: Tsuketari jushoroku, 1948-1949 nendo Chicago Tribune, was deserving of the paper’s story in his [New York Japanese American directory: 1948-1949]. Ad p. honor.” He is now anxiously waiting for resumption of trade B-14. [Eng] with Japan. In the meantime he continues his hobby, working • Summary: Ad (¼ page). Th e top ¼ of this ad is in English. energetically, which is also the story of his success. Note 1. Th e top left illustration shows that they sell Daruma Shoyu– It is not clear from this biography (in English or Japanese) which is probably imported from Japan. Address: 3336 N. how Mr. Nagano introduced soy sauce to the USA, when he Halsted St., Chicago 13, Illinois. Phone: LAkeview 5-7135. started making it in Chicago, and what the fi rst name of his soy sauce manufacturing company was. He may have begun

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 181 by importing it (in 1906) through Fuji Trading Co. When he 43). saw that it was selling well, he may have constructed a factory Th e pages in the 1948 Year Book are numbered to make it in Chicago. His facing biography in Japanese says continuously from beginning to end (p. 176), but the pages that in 1910 he started “large scale production and sales” that contain bleed photos do no bear numbers. Very little (tairyô seisan hanbai); if this is referring to soy sauce, then he of the 1948 Year Book is in Japanese; any Japanese appears started making it by 1910. under an English head. Th e 1948 Year Book does not contain (b) A full-page biography of Mr. Kaijiro Tanaka (p. 22) alphabetical listings of businesses. Th e 1949 Year Book does, states: A native of Fukuoka prefecture, Mr. Tanaka has the but the only apparent businesses that make soy products distinction of being the only Japanese tofu manufacturer are Asato and Mori. Address: 1833 N. Bissel St., Chicago 14, in New York. He also owns two stores that sell general Illinois. merchandise and Japanese foods (such as senbei / Japanese rice crackers). In 1906 he fi rst arrived in the USA in San 799. Product Name: Tofu. Francisco, California, where he was greeted by the great Manufacturer’s Name: Mori Tofu Co. earthquake and fi re. He moved to Denver, Colorado, where Manufacturer’s Address: 4325 S. Drexel Blvd. (rear), (15) he became the city’s fi rst Japanese chauff eur. In 1914, aft er Chicago, Illinois. Phone: LIvingstone 8-8541. a brief visit to Japan, he returned to the U.S., settling in Date of Introduction: 1948. January. New York, where he soon entered his present business. He New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Shinpo-sha. 1948. continued the tofu shop until the outbreak of World War II. Nyuyoku Benran: Tsuketari jushoroku, 1948-1949 nendo In 1942 he moved into his present shop at 159 East 53rd St [New York Japanese American directory: 1948-1949]. Th e all- [between Lexington and 3rd Ave.]. He continued his pre- English directory at back of book under Chicago–Groceries war business and also ran another business (Tanaka Shokai, (p. 6) gives this name, address and phone number. Japanese Export and Import) at West 65th St. He is a member Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times of the executive committee of the New York Japanese Directory]. 1952, p. 517. Under “Groceries-Retail.” In American Committee for Japan Relief Inc. and during the Japanese: Mori Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: Mori Tofu Co., war was also on the executive committee of the Red Cross 4325 S. Drexel Blvd., Chicago. Phone: LIV. 8541. War Fund campaign, Japanese division. He is also a director Chicago Shimpo, Inc. 1958. Chicago Japanese American of the Japanese Christian Institute. Note 2. It is not clear directory. Page 43. A space ad (¼ page) states: “Mori Tofu when (probably in about 1914) and at what address he began Co., 4325 South Ellis. Manufacturers of tofu. Fresh fi sh for making tofu in New York–nor what the name of his tofu sashimi. Delivery service. A. Mori, proprietor.” company was. On the facing page (p. 23) is a biography of Mrs. Kikue Tanaka. Born in Kumamoto prefecture, she came 800. Oriental Show-You Company. 1948. Manufacturers of to New York in 1919 while a very young girl. For about 20 Oriental Show-You (Ad). In: Hokubei Shinpo-sha. 1948. years she has been a successful woman restaurateur, owning Nyuyoku Benran: Tsuketari jushoroku, 1948-1949 nendo and managing Suehiro’s at East 29th St. Note 3. Th ere is no [New York Japanese American directory: 1948-1949]. Ad p. indication that she is related to Mr. Kaijiro Tanaka, the tofu B-14. [Eng] maker. • Summary: Ad (½ page horizontal). Th e top 1/3 of this ad is (3) Nyuyoku Benran, 1948-1948, published by Hokubei in English. “Canning and wholesale of [mung] bean sprouts. Shimpo-sha (99 p., all in Japanese). On page 29 of this section Chow Mein, noodles and vegetable chop suey.” In Japanese: is a subsection on tofu business. See Tanaka 1914. (4) Ads at Oriental Shoyu Jozo Kabushiki Kaisha, President Mr. Shinzo back (p. A1 to A13, B1-B18). (5) Classifi ed business directory Ooki, shoyu maker. Address: Columbia City, Indiana. (33 p. all in English, numbered in the opposite direction as most of the book. Encompasses points as distant as Ohio and 801. Pacifi c Mutual Sales Co. 1948. “Club” Shoyu (Ad). In: Florida). Th ere are ads between most sections of the book. Chicago Shimpo, Inc. 1958. Chicago Japanese American Address: New York City, New York. directory. See p. 40. [Eng; jap] • Summary: Ad (½ page). Th e top line and the bottom ¼ 798. Komaki (Joe T.); Kalifornians Enterprise. comp. 1948. of this ad are in English. Th e word “Kurabu” is written in Shikago Nenkan Chicago Japanese American year book. katakana characters inside an octagon that is wider from Chicago, Illinois: Joe T. Komaki, KE. 176 p. 22 cm. [Eng; jap] left to right than from top to bottom. In the top right, in • Summary: Th is directory is mostly in English. Japanese, is written vertically “Honzukuri Kurabu shoyu” It contains advertisements for: Showa Shoyu Brewing Co., (truly / traditionally made Club Shoyu) Pacifi c is the sole Glendale, Arizona (p. 38-39). “Club” Shoyu, distributed solely distributor. We are not told where the product is made, or by by Pacifi c Mutual Sales Co., San Francisco, California (p. 40). what company. Tofu–Ageh [Agé] Manufacturer. Asato Soy Bean Food Shop Ad also appears in 1948 in Nichi Bei Times. Evacuation (p. 40). Mori Tofu Co., Chicago: Manufacturers of tofu (p. resettlement report. p. 143 (half-page ad on right). May 31.

the paint chipping off , into a cooling tank with warm water, and 2 small packaging machines that were unreliable, an old, small boiler, etc. Th ey went out of business in about Aug. 1991, six months before David started making tofu–and that hurt David. Ben and Nina were getting a divorce, Ben’s father grew old, and their son (Paul, who worked for a while making tofu aft er school) graduated from school and moved to Canada. Th e success of David’s company knocked Soya Food Products, run by Ben & Nina Yamaguchi, out of business; 16 years ago he took over their alfalfa sprout account from Castellini Co., a big Midwest distributor (the Yamaguchi’s sole distributor, who bought sprouts only from them), and 10 years ago he took over their mung bean sprout business. Th ey grew their sprouts in buckets, they weren’t green, they lasted only 2-3 days, and they oft en were unable to fi ll all orders. David came in with trays, green leaves, 2-week shelf life, and nice labels. Th ey had a retail store at their plant selling Address: 1498 Ellis St., San Francisco, California. Phone: Oriental foods. Now the building is used by a business that WAlnut 1-2932. caters food to day-care centers.

802. Product Name: Tofu. 803. Crane Portland [Oregon] directory. 1949. Portland, Manufacturer’s Name: Soya Food Products Co. Oregon: Crane Direct Mail Service. See p. 12. Manufacturer’s Address: 2356 Wyoming Ave., Cincinnati, • Summary: “NW 5th–322 Soy Bean Cake Co. *” OH 45124. Phone: 513-661-2250. Note 1. Th is is actually the Ota Tofu Co. See Nichi- Date of Introduction: 1949. Bei Nenkan. Th is is the fi rst year that the words “soy” or Ingredients: Soybeans, water, solidifi er (calcium sulfate or “soybean” are mentioned in any Caucasian-owned directory natural nigari). in connection with the Ohta / Ota family or their tofu Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1 lb packed in water. making company–even though the company was founded in How Stored: Refrigerated. Portland in 1911. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Note 2: Th e title page states: “Contains a list of passenger Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). car owners residing in Portland, Oregon, and rural routs “Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 398. operated from Portland; also a list of residents who are not Owner: Ben and Nina Yamaguchi, Edward Willwerth. registered automobile owners. Label. 1979, undated. 4 by 5 inches. Red and green “Directory shows make of automobile and year of on clear fi lm. “Est. 1945.” Leviton. Soyfoods Center manufacture opposite each owner’s name, and also indicates Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. 22. Owner: Ben by * those who have a telephone.” Address: Portland, Oregon. & Nina Yamaguchi. Edward Willwerth, manager. 1982. Soyfoods. Summer. p. 36. Ben Yamaguchi and Yoshio 804. Product Name: Star Tofu. Soybean Curd Cake. Shimizu started a canned bean sprouts operation in 1945, Manufacturer’s Name: Star Tofu Mfg. Co. then added tofu production and an Oriental Grocery in 1949, Manufacturer’s Address: 608 Weller St., Seattle, WA 98104. bean sprout salad and fried tofu pouches in 1955, then Ed Phone: MA 6217. Willwerth as general manager in 1978. In 1981 the fi rm made Date of Introduction: 1950. 300-400 lb/week of tofu. Ingredients: Soybean, water, bittern or nigari–an extract of Talk with Chieko Kimbel of Chieko Tofu, Inc. in seawater. Cincinnati. 1993. Feb. 7. Soya Food Products Co. no longer Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 16 oz. exists. Th e company was shut down and the building sold How Stored: Refrigerated. about 1½-2 years ago. Talk with David Kimbel of Sunsprout New Product–Documentation: Seattle City Directory. 1951. of Cincinnati. 1993. Feb. 8. Aft er he decided to start making First listing for Star Tofu Mfg. Co. (Sakanioto Noboru), soy tofu, he considered buying his equipment from Ben and Nina bean cake. 608 Weller; 1965 listing same but person is now Yamaguchi of Soya Food Products Co. in Cincinnati. Th ey Tom E. Watanabe at 608 S. Weller; 1973 listing same but were going out of business but their equipment was too old–a people are Yoji and Mrs. Elinor Maeda, food products. stone mill, cooking in buckets with a primitive steam wand, Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 608. Category: pressing out of a bag with a hydraulic press, homemade “Food Products.” Sutaa Tofu Seizô-sho, Star Tofu Mfg. Co., pressing boxes on a 2 pressing station homemade press with 608 Weller St., Seattle. Phone: MA 6217.

Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Kojima Tofu-ten. English: Kojima Soy Bean Food Mfg., 1219 Directory]. 1952, p. 426. In Japanese: Sutaa Tofu Seizô-sho. In 19th St., Denver. Phone: TA 4937. English: Star Tofu Mfg. Co., 608 Weller St., Seattle. No phone. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 822. Directory]. 1952, p. 485. Under “Food Products.” In Japanese: Directory entry, under “Food Products.” In Japanese: Sutaa Kojima Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: Kojima Soy Bean Food Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: Star Tofu Mfg. Co., 608 Weller St., Mfg., 1219-19th St., Denver, Colorado. Phone: TA 4937. Seattle, Washington. Phone: 622-6217. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. 608 S. 808. Product Name: Tofu. Weller St. in Seattle. Manufacturer’s Name: M & M Tofu Seizo-sho (Soy Bean Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu Cake Mfg.). (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Manufacturer’s Address: N. 123 Bernard St., Spokane, and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 399. Star Tofu Mfg. Co., 608 Washington. Phone: MA 4871. So. Weller St., Seattle, Washington 98104. Owner: Unknown. Date of Introduction: 1951. January. Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. How Stored: Refrigerated. 22. New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Mainichi Year Label. 1980, undated. 3 by 2 inches. Blue on white. Book. 1951, p. 624. Category: “Business.” In Japanese: Tofu Address: 608 S. Weller St. “Keep refrigerated. Change water Seizô-sho, Soy Bean Cake Mfg. Co., N. 123 Bernard St., daily.” Illustration of a cake of tofu with a star on it in a bowl. Spokane. Phone: MA 4871. Note: M&M Food Products is listed at this same address. 805. Polk’s Portland [Oregon] city directory. 1950. Portland, Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Oregon: R.L. Polk & Co., Inc. See p. 802, 1020. Directory]. 1952, p. 444. In Japanese: M & M Tofu-ten. • Summary: “Ohta Shina (widow of Saizo) Soybean Cake Co. In English: M & M Grocery, 123 Bernard St., Spokane, Home 322 NW 5th av.” Washington. Phone: M. 4871. Page 1020: “Soybean Cake Co (Mrs Shina Ohta) food prod mfgrs [food product manufacturers] 322 NW 5th 809. Product Name: Tofu. av.” Note 1. Th is is actually the Ota Tofu Co. See Nichi- Manufacturer’s Name: Oseto / Ohseto Tofu-ten (Oseto Tofu Bei Nenkan. Th is is the fi rst year that the words “soy” or Co.). “soybean” are mentioned by this Caucasian-owned directory Manufacturer’s Address: 109 S. Commerce St., Stockton, in connection with the Ohta / Ota family or their tofu California. Phone: 4-4371. making company. Address: Portland, Oregon. Date of Introduction: 1951. January. New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Mainichi Year 806. Product Name: Tofu. Book. 1951, p. 312. Manufacturer’s Name: Azuma Tofu-ten (Azuma Tofu Co). Manufacturer’s Address: 75 Japan Alley, Sacramento, 810. Pacifi c Trading Co. (Taiheiyo Boeki Kabushiki-gaisha). California. Phone: GI 3-3196. 1951. Import–Export–Wholesale (Ad). In: Hokubei Mainichi Date of Introduction: 1951. January. Nenkan [Hokubei Mainichi Year Book]. 1951. p. 26. [Eng; New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Mainichi Year jap] Book. 1951, p. 240. Category: “Tofu Factories, Misc. • Summary: Ad (half page). Th e top third of this ad is in Factories.” Azuma Tofu-ten, Azuma Tofu Co., 75 Japan Alley, English, as is the bottom line. In the center are three large Sacramento. No phone. logos: Kikkoman [shoyu], Liberty brand Bluerose rice, and Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Aji-no-Moto [MSG]. Cable address: “Pacmuco” S.F. Address: Directory]. 1952, p. 174. Under “Factories.” In Japanese: 249 Davis St., San Francisco 11, California. Phone: YUkon Azuma Tofu-ya. In English: Azuma Tofu Co., 75 Japan Alley, 2-3820. Sacramento, California. Phone: GI 3-3196. 811. Product Name: Shoyu [Soy sauce]. 807. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Rafu Shoyu Jozo-gaisha (Rafu Shoyu Manufacturer’s Name: Kojima Tofu-ten (Kojima Soy Bean Co.). Food Mfg.). Manufacturer’s Address: 3500 Larimer, St., Denver, Manufacturer’s Address: 1219 19th St., Denver, Colorado. Colorado. Phone: KE 4782. Phone: TA. 4937. Date of Introduction: 1951. January. Date of Introduction: 1951. January. New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Mainichi Year How Stored: Refrigerated. Book. 1951, p. 662. Category: “Food Products.” In Japanese: New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Mainichi Year Rafu Shoyu Jôzô-gaisha. English: Rafu Shoyu Co., 3500 Book. 1951, p. 662. Category: “Food Products.” In Japanese: Larimer St., Denver. Phone: KE 4782.

Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Phone: TR 5805. Note: Yamasa is an old and famous maker Directory]. 1952, p. 485. Under “Food Products.” In Japanese: of shoyu in Japan. It is not clear whether or not this company Rafu Shoyu Jôzô Gaisha. In English: Rafu Shoyu Co., 3500 is related to the Yamasa of Japan, and whether this company Larimer St., Denver, Colorado. Phone: KE. 4782. makes shoyu or just sells it. However Japan’s old and famous Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 899. Yamasa company does not yet make shoyu in the USA. Directory entry, under “Food Products.” In Japanese: Rafu Shoyu Jôzô-gaisha. In English: Rafu Shoyu & Bean Sprouts 815. Product Name: Tofu. Co., 3500 Larimer St., Denver, Colorado. Phone: 534-4782. Manufacturer’s Name: Higa (Mrs. H.A.) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 964 Robello Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, 812. Product Name: Tofu. Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Name: Rafuetto Tofu-ten (Lafayette Bean Date of Introduction: 1951. Cake Co.). New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Address: 1926 Lawrence St., Denver, 1951. Mrs. H.A. Higa Tofu (Mrs. H.A. Higa, proprietor). 964 Colorado. Phone: MA. 3386. Robello Ln., Honolulu. Note that this used to be the location Date of Introduction: 1951. January. of Genji Oyama, tofu manufacturer. 1954 Directory. Higa How Stored: Refrigerated. Tofu-Ya (Takeshi Higa, proprietor). Address same. New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 662. Category: “Food Products.” In Japanese: 816. Product Name: Tofu. Rafuetto Tofu-ten. English: Lafayette Bean Cake Co., 1296 Manufacturer’s Name: Higa (Richard M.) Tofu. Later Lawrence St., Denver. Phone: MA 3386. becomes the Better Food Tofu Factory. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Manufacturer’s Address: 1337 N. King, Honolulu, Oahu, Directory]. 1952, p. 485. Under “Food Products.” In Japanese: Hawaii. Lafayette Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: Lafayette Bean Cake Date of Introduction: 1951. Co., 1926 Lawrence St., Denver, Colorado. Phone: MA. 3386. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1951. Richard M. Higa Tofu (Richard M. Higa, proprietor). 813. Product Name: Tofu, and Aburaagé. 1337 N King, Honolulu. 1953 Directory. Richard M. Higa’s Manufacturer’s Name: Tanabe Tofu-ten (Tofu Shop). residence given as 2117 Kamehameha IV Road. Manufacturer’s Address: 2199 S. Cherokee Lane, Lodi, California. Phone: 3-F-11. 817. Product Name: Tofu, Aburage (Deep-Fried Tofu Date of Introduction: 1951. January. Pouches). New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Mainichi Year Manufacturer’s Name: Kanai Nissei Shokai. Formerly Book. 1951, p. 331. Tanabe Shôten, Tanabe Co., 2199 S. Hiroyuki Kanai Tofu, and Teikichi Kanai Tofu. Renamed Cherokee Lane, Lodi. Phone: 3-F-11. Ad (1/8 page), p. 331. Kanai Tofu Factory by 1973. Tanabe Shôten. Tofu, aburage, and all Japanese and Western- Manufacturer’s Address: 515 Ward Ave., Honolulu, Oahu HI style foods. Mr. Yoshio Tanabe. 96814. Phone: 808-538-1305. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Date of Introduction: 1951. Directory]. 1952, p. 219. In Japanese: Tanabe Tofu-ten. In How Stored: Refrigerated. English: Tanabe Tofu-ten, 228 N. Washington St., Lodi, California. Phone: 9-3122 (new address and phone number). Ad (1/8 page), p. 220. Top 1/3 of this ad is in English: Tanabe Co., 228 N. Washington St., Lodi, Calif. Phone: 9-3122. In Japanese: Tofu, aburaage, and all of Japanese and Western foods. Owner: Mr. Yoshio Tanabe. Address and phone also given.

814. Product Name: Shoyu. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamasa Shoyu Kaisha (Yamasa Shoyu New Product–Documentation: Ad by Kanai Nissei Shokwai Co.). in Hui Manaolana. 1951. Japanese Foods: (Tested Recipes). Manufacturer’s Address: 845 Naomi Ave., Los Angeles, Honolulu, Hawaii. See p. 62. “515 Ward Street. Phone: 55305. California. Phone: TR 5805. Manufacturers of: Calcium tofu, konnyaku, aburage, natto.” Date of Introduction: 1951. January. Note: Th is same ad appears on the same page in the 1956 New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Mainichi Year edition of this book. Book. 1951, p. 435. Category: “Food Products.” Yamasa Shoyu Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1953. (Revised 26 Kaisha, Yamasa Shoyu Co., 845 Naomi Ave., Los Angeles. July 1955). p. 10. Tofu (Bean curd). Kanai Nissei Shokai.

515 Ward Ave. “Calcium.” Same in 1960 Directory (revised 1532-34 Polk St., San Francisco 9, California. [Jap; Eng] 20 July 1961) and in 1966 Directory (revised 21 Jan. 1965). • Summary: Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 9. Ad Honolulu City Directory. 1954. Kanai Tofu Factory, 515 Ward (½ page, vertical). Top 1/3 of the ad is in English. “Norio Ave., Honolulu. 1957 Directory. Name changed to Kanai Company, 1532-34 Polk St., San Francisco 9, Calif. Tel. Nissei Shokai (Alton & Mrs. Durine Takai, proprietors). WEst 1-8672. Soy bean products.” Below that is the large Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). “Maruman” logo. In Japanese: Maker and wholesaler of 1964. Kanai Nissei Shokai, 515 Ward Ave., Honolulu, Maruman brand miso and koji. Also sells soybeans and HI 96814. Phone: 581305. Owners: Mr. and Mrs. Alton nigari. Directory entry, under “Food Products: Wholesalers” Noboyoshi Kanai. Tofu, aburage, konnyaku, natto, kinako. (p. 37), and under “Food Products” (p. 38). Norio Miso Tofu Employees: 11. Wholesale, retail, direct to customer. City Seizô-sho (Norio Co.), 1534 Post St., WE 1-8672. Note that Directories 1966 through 1967-68. Kanai Nissei Shokai, 515 they now make tofu! Ward Ave. In 1968-69 Directory name changed to Kanai Tofu Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Factory at same address. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. Directory]. 1952, p. 16. Under “Food Products; Grocers- 1969. p. 17. Kanai Nissei Shokai, 515 Ward Ave. Hawaii Whsle.” In Japanese: Norio Miso Tofu Seizô-sho. In English: Directory of Manufacturers. 1973. p. 10. Th e company is fi rst Norio Co., 1532 Post St., San Francisco. Phone: WE 1-8672. listed under the name Kanai Tofu Factory in this publication. Ad (¼ page), p. 21. Top 1/3 of ad is in English. Norio Th ey make “tofu, aburage, natto, konnyaku, ito-konnyaku Company, 1532-34 Post St., San Francisco. Phone: WEst and okara (soy bean meal).” Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. 1-8672. In Japanese: Maruman brand. Miso koji seizô Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. Soyfoods Center Computerized [manufacturing]. Note: Do they make both tofu and koji? Mailing List. 1981. Jan. 22. Owner: Richard & Mark Kaneda. Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 11. Interview with Kanai. 1983. Th ey started in 1923. Note that Half-page vertical ad. Address has expanded to 1532-34 this date is 11 years before the earliest reference to the Kanai Post St., San Francisco 9, Calif. Phone: 931-8672. “Soy bean family in the Honolulu directories. products” (in English). Th eir large logo is still Maruman, with the character Man (meaning ten thousand) inside a 818. Product Name: Natto. bold circle. Th e bottom half of the ad (in Japanese) states that Manufacturer’s Name: Kanai Nissei Shokai. Later called they make and sell (wholesale) Maruman brand miso and Kanai Tofu Factory. koji. Th ey also sell tofu and agé. Directory entry, p. 37 under Manufacturer’s Address: 515 Ward Ave., Honolulu, Oahu, HI “Food Products.” Norio miso tofu seizô-sho [Norio, maker 96814. Phone: 581305. of miso and tofu]. Address: San Francisco, California. Phone: Date of Introduction: 1951. WEst 1-8672.

820. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Okumura (Raymond T.) Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 1082 Ala Moana, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1951. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1951. Raymond T. Okumura Tofu (Raymond T. Okumura, proprietor). 1082 Ala Moana, Honolulu. Residence 739 New Product–Documentation: Ad by Kanai Nissei Shokwai Hausten (about 1952). 1954 Directory. Changed to Diamond in Hui Manaolana. 1951. Japanese Foods: (Tested Recipes). Tofu Co. (Raymond T. Okumura, proprietor). 1020 Auahi, Honolulu, Hawaii. See p. 62. “515 Ward Street. Phone: 55305. Building 5, Honolulu. Note that this is the same location Manufacturers of: Calcium tofu, konnyaku, aburage, natto.” as the Aloha Tofu Factory, but a diff erent building. 1957 Note: Th is same ad appears on the same page in the 1956 Directory. Changed to Diamond Tofu Factory. Address same. edition of this book. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 821. Product Name: Tofu. 1964. Kanai Nissei Shokai, 515 Ward Ave., Honolulu, Manufacturer’s Name: Taira? / Hira? Tofu Seizo-sho (Tofu HI 96814. Phone: 581305. Owners: Mr. and Mrs. Alton Factory). Noboyoshi Kanai. Tofu, aburage, konnyaku, natto, kinako. Manufacturer’s Address: 2630 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley, Employees: 11. Wholesale, retail, direct to customer. Hawaii California. Directory of Manufacturers. 1973. p. 11. Called Kanai Tofu Date of Introduction: 1951. Factory. New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 109. Category: “Tofu Factory.” Taira? / Hira? 819. Norio Co. (Norio Miso Tofu Seizô-sho). 1951. Tofu. Tofu seizô-sho, Tofu Factory, 2630 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley.

No phone. bottle of “KikkoMan Soy Sauce,” made by Noda Shoyu Co., Ltd. Address: 11, 3-chome, Koamicho, Nihonbashi, Tokyo, 822. Product Name: Tofu. Japan. Manufacturer’s Name: Yee Chai Co. Manufacturer’s Address: 1203 Liliha, Honolulu, Oahu, 824. Cosmopolitan Trading Co. (Kosumoporitan Boeki Hawaii. Shokai). 1952. [Imports & exports (Ad)]. In: Nichi Bei Times. Date of Introduction: 1951. 1952. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Directory]. [Eng; jap] 1951. Yee Chai Co. 1203 Liliha, Honolulu. 1953 Directory. • Summary: Ad (¼ page), p. 20. Top 1/3 of ad is in English. Lung Chew Yee Yet Sing Lee Wah Ling Lum Joseph Tom Th e company makes and sells Ikari (Anchor) brand tofu. Sha Cho Lum, proprietor. Address listed as 1911 Kalani, Founded in 1914. Owners: Hirofumi Taniguchi. Hironobu Honolulu. Not listed 1958-59. Taniguchi. Cable address: Cosmo. Address: 1750 Sutter St., San Francisco, California. Phone: JOrdan 7-0249. 823. Noda Shoyu Co., Ltd. 1951. Soy sauce? Correction please! You mean Kikkoman soy sauce (Ad). In: Hui 825. Product Name: Kanemasa Edo Miso, and Koji. Manaolana. 1956. Japanese Foods: (Tested recipes). Honolulu, Manufacturer’s Name: Fujimoto Products & Co. (Fujimoto Oahu, Hawaii: Hui Manaolana. 118 p. See p. 40. Shokai). Manufacturer’s Address: 302 S. 4th West, Salt Lake City, Utah. Phone: 4-8279. Date of Introduction: 1952. February. New Product–Documentation: Ad (¼ page) in Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Directory]. 1952, p. 461. Th e top 1/3 of this ad is in English: Fujimoto & Co., 302 So. 4th W. St., Salt Lake City, Utah. Phone: 4-8279. Japanese: Fujimoto Shôkai. Th eir Japanese-style Kanemasa logo is shown. Th ey sell Edo miso and koji. Directory entry p. 462, under “Stores.” English: Fujimoto Co.

826. Product Name: Sauce. Manufacturer’s Name: Hana Murasaki Shoyu Kaisha (Hanamurasaki Shoyu Co.). Manufacturer’s Address: 702 E. Olive St., Compton, California. Phone: ME 44407. Date of Introduction: 1952. February. New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 435. Category: “Food Products.” In Japanese: Hana Murasaki Shoyu Kaisha. In English: Hanamurasaki Shoyu Co., 702 E. Olive St., Compton, California. Phone: ME 44407. Note: Compton is located about 12 miles south of downtown Los Angeles. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Directory]. 1952, p. 379. Under “Compton, Calif.” In Japanese: Hana Murasaki Shoyu Jôzô Kaisha. In English: Soya Beans Products Co., 702 E. Olive St., Compton, California. Phone: ME. 4-4470 (new company name and phone number).

827. Inaba Co. (Inaba Shoten). 1952. [Inaba Co. (Ad)]. In: Nichi Bei Times. 1952. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese • Summary: “Try the new pint and ½ pint bottles. Available American Times Directory]. [Eng; jap] at all grocery stores.” A cartoon character, a smiling Hawaiian • Summary: Ad (¼ page), p. 215. Name of company with girl with a lei around her neck, is pointing toward the upper diacritics is: Inaba Shôten. Th e company sells shoyu. Address: right quarter of the page, where there is a large hexagonal P.O. Box 466, Walnut Grove, California. Phone: 3436. Kikkoman logo. A photo in the lower left corner shows a

828. Product Name: Natto. Telephone prefi x abbreviations are spelled out on the fi rst Manufacturer’s Name: Inose Natto Seizo-sho (Inose Natto page of each city, e.g., YU = Yukon. Includes ads for Yamato Co.). Sukiyaki, 717 California St., high class restaurant (p. 17) Manufacturer’s Address: 1615 W. 135th St., Compton, and Soko Hardware 1698 Post St., San Francisco. Th ey California. Phone: ME. 4-4718. also import (p. 18). Address: 1375 Eddy St., San Francisco, Date of Introduction: 1952. February. California. New Product–Documentation: Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Directory]. 1952, p. 380. Under 833. Pacifi c Mutual Sales Inc. (Taiheiyo Kyodo Shoji “Compton, Calif.” In Japanese: Inose Natto Seizô-sho. In Kabushiki-gaisha). 1952. Yushutsu nyû shô [Import & English: Inose Natto Co., 1615 W. 135th St., Compton, export merchant (Ad)]. In: Nichi Bei Times. 1952. Nichi- California. Phone: ME. 4-4718. Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Directory]. Unnumbered page at front. [Eng; jap] 829. Modern Food Products Co. (Modan Boeki Gaisha). • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e top one-fourth is in English. 1952. Yushutsu nyû sho [Import & export (Ad)]. In: Nichi Company name with diacritics is: Taiheiyô Kyôdo Shôji Bei Times. 1952. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Kabushiki-gaisha. Sells Kikkoman shoyu. Th e company Times Directory]. Unnumbered page at front. [Eng; jap] advertises itself as Kikkoman’s special dealer shop. Th ey have • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e company sells Marushô branches in Chicago (Illinois) and Los Angeles (California). Shoyu. Th ey have a Japan offi ce in Tokyo. Los Angeles Th ey sell “Wel-Pac” brands. Address: 249 Davis St., San cable: Mofood. Address: 1. 25 California St., San Francisco Francisco 11, California. Phone: YUkon 2-3820. 11, California; 2. 849 E. 6th St., Los Angeles 21, California. Phone: EXbrook 2-1531; MAdison 6-4335. 834. Sakai (G.T.) & Co. (Sakai Shokai [Wholesale]). 1952. Yushutsu nyû sho [Jobbers and Wholesale: Imported Oriental 830. Mutual Supply Co. (Kyodo Shohi Kaisha). 1952. Food Products (Ad)]. In: Nichi Bei Times. 1952. Nichi-Bei Jiji [General importer & exporter (Ad)]. In: Nichi Bei Times. Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Directory]. [Eng; jap] 1952. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times • Summary: Ad (¼ page), p. 177. Name of company with Directory]. Page 2. [Eng; jap] diacritics is: Sakai Shôkai. Th e company sells soybeans • Summary: Ad (full page). Company name with diacritics and azuki beans. Address: 1111-1115 4th St., Sacramento, is: Kyôdo Shôhi Kaisha. Th e company is a special dealer for California. Phone: GI. 3-0252. Kikkoman shoyu. Th e company’s Los Angeles offi ce is at 406 East Th ird 835. San Joaquin Mercantile Co. (San Okin Shokai). St., Los Angeles 13, California. Phone: MUtual 9461. Cable 1952. [Jobbers–Distributors (Ad)]. In: Nichi Bei Times. address: “Togasaki” San Francisco. Address: 200 Davis St., 1952. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times San Francisco 11, California. Phone: YUkon 2-5703; YUkon Directory]. [Eng; jap] 2-0520. • Summary: Ad (½ page), p. 278. Name of company with diacritics is: San Okin Shôkai. Th e top 1/3 of this ad is in 831. Product Name: Miso, and Shoyu. English. Th e company sells Hanamurasaki brand Shoyu. Manufacturer’s Name: Nakamura Miso Shoyu Jozo Gaisha Address: 955 I St., Reedley, California. Phone: 424. (Nakamura Miso-Shoyu Mfg. Co.). Manufacturer’s Address: 1935 Ararahoe St., Denver, 836. Product Name: Tofu. Colorado. Phone: TA. 6773. Manufacturer’s Name: Shiyatoru Tofu Seizo-sho (Seattle Tofu Date of Introduction: 1952. February. Co.). How Stored: Refrigerated. Manufacturer’s Address: 1225 Jackson St., Seattle, New Product–Documentation: Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku Washington. Phone: MI. 1637. [Japanese American Times Directory]. 1952, p. 485. Under Date of Introduction: 1952. February. “Food Products.” In Japanese: Nakamura Miso Shôyu Jôzô How Stored: Refrigerated. Gaisha. In English: Nakamura Miso-Shoyu Mfg. Co., 1935 New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Mainichi Year Arapahoe St., Denver, Colorado. Phone: TA. 6773. Book. 1951, p. 608. Category: “Food Products.” Sha-shi Tofu Seizo-sho, Seattle Tofu Store, 1225 Jackson St., Seattle. Phone: 832. Nichi-Bei Jiji Shinbunsha / Nichi Bei Times. 1952/25. 1637. Nichibei jiji jûshoroku [Japanese American Times directory]. Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku [Japanese American Times San Francisco, California: Nichi-Bei Shinbunsha. 500+ p. Directory]. 1952, p. 426. In Japanese: Shiyatoru Tofu Seizô- Publishd: Feb. 25. Index. 22 cm. [Eng; Jap] sho. In English: Seattle Tofu Co., 1225 Jackson St., Seattle, • Summary: An index at front of book is alphabetical by Washington. Phone: MI. 1637. states, and within each state, alphabetical by city name.

837. Product Name: Tofu, and Aburaage. Manufacturer’s Address: 175 S.W. Temple St., Salt Lake City, Manufacturer’s Name: Su-shi Tofu Seizo-sho (Stockton Tofu Utah. Phone: 9-5121. Factory). Date of Introduction: 1952. February. Manufacturer’s Address: 109 S. Commerce St., Stockton, CA New Product–Documentation: Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku 95202. Phone: 4-4371. [Japanese American Times Directory]. 1952, p. 462. Under Date of Introduction: 1952. February. “Stores.” In Japanese: Yuta Moyashi Seizô-sho. In English: New Product–Documentation: Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku Utah Beans Sprout Co., 175 S.W. Temple St., Salt Lake City, [Japanese American Times Directory]. 1952, p. 228. Under Utah. Phone: 9-5121. Note: We are not told what kind of “Tofu Mfg. Factory.” In Japanese: Su-shi Tofu Seizô-sho. bean sprouts this company makes. Th e two most likely Note: “Su-shi” is the Japanese name for Stockton. In English: candidates for a Japanese sprout company would be mung Stockton Tofu Factory, 109 S. Commerce St., Stockton, beans, followed by soybeans. However, since the company California. Phone: 4-4371. Ad (1/3 page). Th e top 1/3 of this uses the term “Beans Sprout Co.” in its English name, it seems ad is in English. Victory Market. Th is market has two main more likely than not that they make both mung and soy bean parts at diff erent addresses: Stockton Tofu Factory (at address sprouts. Th ey are the earliest known Japanese maker of bean and phone shown above. Mr. Oose Hironori? Ienori? {Ted}. sprouts in the United States. Makes and sells tofu, aburaage, konnyaku), and Groceries, vegetables, fi sh bait, meat, whole-sale & retail (at 101-103-105 841. Product Name: Tofu. W. Market St., Stockton). Manufacturer’s Name: Hagiwara Tofu-ten (Hagiwara Tofu Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 533. Co.). Directory entry. In Japanese: Ooseto Tofu-ten. In English: Manufacturer’s Address: 314 N.W. Everett Street, Portland, Stockton Tofu Factory, 109 S. Commerce St. Phone: 464- Oregon. 1982. Date of Introduction: 1952. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. How Stored: Refrigerated. New Product–Documentation: Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku 838. Product Name: Tofu. [Japanese American Times Directory]. 1952, p. 410. Under Manufacturer’s Name: Tokubo Tofu Seizo-sho (Tokubo Tofu “Stores.” In Japanese: Hagiwara Tofu-ten. In English: Co.). Hagihara [sic, Hagiwara] Tofu Co., 314 N.W. Everett St., Manufacturer’s Address: 505 7th St., Fowler, California. Portland, Oregon. No phone number given. Phone: 2186. Date of Introduction: 1952. February. 842. Product Name: Tofu. How Stored: Refrigerated. Manufacturer’s Name: Fujii (Tadao) Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Nichi-Bei Jiji Jushoroku Manufacturer’s Address: 2851a East Manoa Road, Honolulu, [Japanese American Times Directory]. 1952, p. 268. Under Oahu, Hawaii. “Fowler, Calif.” In Japanese: Tokubo Tofu Seizô-sho. In Date of Introduction: 1953. English: Tokubo Tofu Co., 505 7th St., Fowler, California. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Phone: 2186. 1953. Tadao Fujii Tofu. 2851a East Manoa Rd., Honolulu.

839. Yamate Trading Co., Ltd. (Yamate Burazaasu Shokuhin 843. Product Name: Tofu. Seizo Oroshi Sho). 1952. [Importers–Exporters. Yamate Manufacturer’s Name: Tofu Fountain. Later becomes Aloha Brothers (Ad)]. In: Nichi Bei Times. 1952. Nichi-Bei Jiji Tofu Factory. Jushoroku [Japanese American Times Directory]. Page 3. Manufacturer’s Address: 802 Dillingham Blvd., Honolulu, [Eng; jap] Oahu, Hawaii. • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e company is a food Date of Introduction: 1953. manufacturer and wholesaler. Th ey make and sell Bunka New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Shoyu [Culture Shoyu] and Kanro Shoyu [Sweet Shoyu]. 1953. Tofu Fountain (Uyehara Kamesaburo, proprietor). Th e export department is Yamate Bôeki Kabushiki 802 Dillingham Blvd., Honolulu. Not listed 1961-62 as Gaisha. CEO: Sasato Yamate. Branch in Japan in Tokyo, Kamesaburo takes up the Aloha Tofu Factory. Note that Oomori, Yakei (Hakkei) saka agari. Phone: 1313. Manager: 802 Dillingham Blvd. was occupied in 1951 by Kamehachi Sanichi? or Sankazu? Yamate. Address: 1619 Lyon St., San Shimabukuro Tofu. Francisco, California. Phone: WEst 1-8731. 844. New York Times.1954. News of food: Variation in soya 840. Product Name: Bean Sprouts. sauces. Oct. 25. p. 30. Manufacturer’s Name: Yuta Moyashi Seizo-sho (Utah Beans • Summary: Th ere are many variations. Some are sweeter Sprout Co.). than others, some saltier, and they can vary in consistency

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 189 from very thin to almost as thick as molasses. Manufacturer’s Name: Hanato (Tamao) Tofu. Some soy sauce is made in the USA, but most is made in Manufacturer’s Address: Kealakekua (Hanalo), Kona, Island Japan, Hong Kong, and Formosa, and imported from those of Hawaii. countries. A brief description of the ingredients and process Date of Introduction: 1954. is given. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Island When people of Japanese or Chinese backgrounds Directory. 1954. Tamao Hanato Tofu (Tamao Hanato, were asked to name their favorite soya sauce, their answers proprietor). Kealakekue, Island of Hawaii. Not listed 1957. followed strictly national lines. Th e Japanese say that their Note, does this later become the Hanao or Hanato Tofu soya sauce is not as sweet and thinner than its Chinese Factory in Honalo, Island of Hawaii. Hawaii Directory of counterpart. But Chinese say that “Japanese soya sauce has a Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. T. Hanato Tofu molasses-like odor and consistency.” Factory. P.O. Box 23, Kealakekua-Kona, Hawaii. Phone: Soy sauce is used in Japan as oft en as (and much like) salt 237183. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1969. p. 17. T. in used in the USA. In both China and Japan, soy sauce is the Hanato Tofu Factory, Kealkekua, Island of Hawaii. most important seasoning or fl avoring. Talk with Paul Duchesne. 1989. Oct. 27. On the Big Island American per capita consumption of soy sauce is steadily he visited a Japanese-run tofu shop that has been there for increasing; it is used in preparing Chinese and Japanese 30-40 years. A relative of the owner located across the street dishes, as well as in typically Western dishes. is Mrs. Tashima of Tashima’s Restaurant (Phone: 808-322- “In California, the land of outdoor cookery, soya sauce 9140). Most of the tofu is sold locally. is oft en used in the marinade for meats and poultry that are Talk with Tashima’s. 1989. Oct. 28. Th e shop is called cooked on a spit over an open fi re. Th e sauce is also used Hanato Tofu Shop. It is owned by Mrs. Tashima’s brother, but as an ingredient in many Western barbecue sauces.” And it run by his son and daughter (Tamayo). Th e phone is 322- works well as a basting sauce. 9932 or 322-2422. China Beauty is an American-made product; a 3-oz. bottle sells for 10¢. Katagiri & Co. (224 East 59th St., New 847. Product Name: Tofu. York City) sells two brands of soy sauce imported from Japan: Manufacturer’s Name: Higa (Shigeru) Tofu. Yamasa Shoyu and Kikkoman Shoyu. Charles & Co. (340 Manufacturer’s Address: Hawi, Island of Hawaii. Madison Ave.) sells another Japanese import, Higeta Shoyu. Date of Introduction: 1954. Walter’s, an oriental grocery store (685 Amsterdam Ave., New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai NYC), sells several brands of Chinese soy sauce from Hong Island Directory. 1954. Shigeru Higa Tofu (Shigeru Higa, Kong and Formosa [Taiwan]. proprietor). Hawi, Island of Hawaii. Not listed 1960.

845. Product Name: Tofu. 848. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Better Food Factory. Formerly Manufacturer’s Name: Hoori (Sawanori) Tofu. Richard M. Higa Tofu. Renamed Better Food Tofu Factory by Manufacturer’s Address: 725 Kilauea Ave., Hilo, Island of 1969. Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Address: 1337 N. King, Honolulu, Oahu, Date of Introduction: 1954. Hawaii. Phone: 808-841-8616. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Island Date of Introduction: 1954. Directory. 1954. Sawanori Hori Tofu (Sawanori Hori, How Stored: Refrigerated. proprietor). 725 Kilauea Ave., Hilo, Island of Hawaii. 1957 New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Directory. Changed to Hori’s Tofu Factory. Address same. 1954. Better Food Factory (Richard M. Higa, owner; tofu Not listed 1960. manufacturers). Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1969. p. 16. Better Food Tofu Factory, 727 Bannister St., Honolulu, 849. Product Name: Tofu. HI 96819. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 313. Manufacturer’s Name: Kozaa Tofu Factory. Phone is 841-8616. Manufacturer’s Address: 2471 South King, Honolulu, Oahu, Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu Hawaii. (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Date of Introduction: 1954. and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 394. Better Food Tofu New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Factory, 727 Bannister St., Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii 96819. 1954. Kozaa Tofu Factory (Ryoson Kuba, proprietor). 2471 S Phone: 808-841-8616. Owner: Richard Higa. King, Honolulu. Not listed 1955. Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. 22. 850. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Oshiro (Yoshiichi) Tofu. Later Oshiro 846. Product Name: Tofu. Tofuya and Oshiro Tofu Factory, 1962.

Manufacturer’s Address: 391 Kilauea Ave., Hilo, Island of and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 394. Aala Tofu Factory, 513 Hawaii. Phone: 808-935-6973. Kaaahi St., Honolulu, Oahu, HI 96817. Owner: Mr. Shojin Date of Introduction: 1954. Yamauchi. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Island By 1981/01, they have become the Aala Tofu Co. at Directory. 1954. Yoshiichi Oshiro Tofu (Yoshiichi Oshiro, 961 Kaaahi St., Honolulu, HI 96817. Soyfoods Center proprietor). 391 Kilauea Ave., Hilo. Not listed 1954. 1962 Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. 22. Directory. Listed as Oshiro Tofu Factory. Address same. Not listed 1965. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers: Tofu (bean 854. Product Name: Tofu. curd). 1964. Oshiro Tofuya, 391 Kilauea Ave., Hilo, Hawaii. Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Tofu Factory. Formerly Phone: 45181. Letter from Lorraine L. Oda. 1984. Aug. 7. Kamehachi Shimabukuro Tofu, then Tofu Fountain. Says company is now Oshiro Tofu Products, Inc. at 738 Manufacturer’s Address: 802 Dillingham Blvd., Honolulu, Kinoole St., Hilo, HI 96720. Oahu, Hawaii. Phone: 808-845-2669. Date of Introduction: 1955. 851. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of Manufacturer’s Name: Takeguchi (Yasuo) Tofu. Manufacturers. 1953. (Revised 26 July 1955). p. 10. Tofu Manufacturer’s Address: Holualoa, Island of Hawaii. (Bean curd). Aloha Tofu Factory, 802 Dillingham Blvd. Date of Introduction: 1954. Honolulu City Directory. 1961-62. Aloha Tofu Factory New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Island (Kamesaburo Uyehara, proprietor). 802 Dillingham Blvd., Directory. 1954. Yasuo Takeguchi Tofu (Yasuo Takeguchi, Honolulu. 1962-63 Directory. Address has changed to 1020 proprietor). Holualoa, Island of Hawaii. 1957 Directory. Auahi, Building 2, Honolulu. Honolulu City Directory. Changed to Takeguchi Tofu Factory. Address same. 1960 Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Directory. Listed as Tageguchi Tofu Factory. 1962 Directory. 1020 Auahi St., Honolulu. Phone: 583196. 1966-67. Aloha Listed as Takeguchi Tofu Factory. Hawaii Directory of Tofu Factory, 1020 Auahi St., Bldg. 2. Exact same listing Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Takeguchi Tofu continues through 1970. ZIP is 96814. Factory, P.O. Box 21, Holualoa-Kona, Hawaii. Phone: 242611. Takai. 1971. Tofu Shops in America. 1020 Auahi St., Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1969. p. 19. Takeguchi Kanesaburo Uehara, President. Uses 300-400 kg/day of Tofu Factory. Holualoa, Island of Hawaii. “Tofu products.” soybeans. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 313. 1020 Auahi St. 852. Product Name: Tofu. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu Manufacturer’s Name: Ueda (Hakaru) Tofu. Renamed Ueda (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Tofu Factory, 1960. and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 394. Aloha Tofu Factory, 961 Manufacturer’s Address: 39 Kapena Lane, Hilo, Island of Akepo Ln., Honolulu, (Oahu), Hawaii 96814. Phone: 808- Hawaii. 845-2669. Owner: Mr. Jack or Kamesaburo Uehara. Date of Introduction: 1954. Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Jan. 22. Owner: Jack Uehara. Th e largest tofu company in Island Directory. 1954. Hakaru Ueda Tofu (Hakaru Ueda, Hawaii. Mr. Kamesaburo Uehara. Address: 961 Akepo Lane, proprietor). 39 Kapena Ln., Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Not listed Honolulu, HI 96817. Letter from Kazu Uehara. 1982. Th e 1957. 1960 Directory. Changed to Ueda Tofu Factory, 29 company he bought in 1950 fi rst started making tofu in June Kapena Ln., Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Not listed 1962. 1947, and was founded by Kamehachi Shimabukuro.

853. Product Name: Tofu. 855. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Aala Tofu Factory. Formerly (1942) Manufacturer’s Name: Rural Food Products. Formerly Haruo Shoan Yamauchi Tofu. Honda Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 981 Iwilei Road, Honolulu, Oahu, Manufacturer’s Address: 117 Mango St., Wahiawa, Oahu, Hawaii. Phone: 808-845-0221. Hawaii. Phone: 808-621-5603. Date of Introduction: 1955. Date of Introduction: 1955. How Stored: Refrigerated. How Stored: Refrigerated. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1955. Aala Tofu Factory (Shojin Yamauchi, proprietor). 1955. Rural Food Products (Haruo Honda, proprietor). 117 981 Iwilei Rd., Honolulu [Hawaii]. 1966/67 through 1970 Mango, Wahiawa, Honolulu. Not listed 1956. 1957 Directory. Directories. Exact same listing, but no proprietor or phone Honda Rural Food Products (Eizo and Haruo Honda; tofu given. manufacturers). 1958-59 Directory. Rural Food Products Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Haruo Honda, proprietor). City Directory 1966-67. Rural (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Food Products, 117 Mango, Wahiawa. No listing in 1968-70

Directories. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1969. p. Note: Th is document contains the earliest date seen 18. Rural Food Products, 117 Mango St., Wahiawa, Oahu, for soybean products (miso and shoyu) in Hawaii (1868); Hawaii 96786. Th ey make tofu, aburage, and konnyaku. By soybeans as such had not yet been reported by that date. 1975 it has become Rural Food Products, Inc., 117 Mango St., Wahiawa, HI 96786. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of 860. Hokubei Shinposha. 1956. Nyuyoku benran: Tsuketari Tofu. p. 314. jushoroku, 1956-nen [New York Japanese American Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu directory: 1956]. New York, NY: Hokubei Shinposha. 277 p.. (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Illust. 25 cm. [Eng; Jap]* and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 394. Owner: Mr. Haruo • Summary: Contains 12 leaves of plates and portraits. Honda. Address: New York City, New York. Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. 22. Owner: Mr. Haruo Honda. 861. Noda Shoyu Co., Ltd. 1956. KikkoMan: the world’s fi nest soy sauce! (Ad). In: Hui Manaolana. 1956. Japanese Foods: 856. Product Name: Fried tofu pouches. (Tested recipes). Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii: Hui Manaolana. Manufacturer’s Name: Soya Food Products. 118 p. See p. 40. Manufacturer’s Address: 2356 Wyoming Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio. Date of Introduction: 1955. New Product–Documentation: Leviton. 1982. Soyfoods. Summer. p. 36. Ben Yamaguchi and Yoshio Shimizu started a canned [mung] bean sprouts operation in 1945, then added tofu production and an Oriental Grocery in 1949, bean sprout salad and fried tofu pouches in 1955.

857. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Chong Tofu Manufacturing Co. Manufacturer’s Address: 3220 Waialae Ave., Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1956. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1956. Chong Tofu Manufacturing Co. 3220 Waialae Ave., Honolulu. 1957 Directory. Now listed as Chong’s Tofu (K.C. Chong, proprietor), same address.

858. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Maili Tofu Factory. Manufacturer’s Address: 87-364 Farrington Highway, Maili, Honolulu. Date of Introduction: 1956. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1956. Maili Tofu Factory (Gilbert Y. Uyehara, proprietor). 87- 364 Farrington Highway, Maili, Honolulu. 1958-59 Directory. Name changed to Maile Tofu-Ya. 1960 Directory. Name changed to Maile Grocery. Address same.

859. Fukai, Yoshibei / Kichibei. 1956. Shôyu dokuhon [Th e shoyu reading book]. Tokyo: Ariake Shobo. 128 p. [Jap] • Summary: Th e section on shoyu exports from Japan notes • Summary: “Prepare barbecues, hamburger, chop suey that on 25 April 1868, 153 Japanese emigrated to Hawaii on and other dishes the Kikko-Man way. You will fi nd it the the ship Scioto (called Shiotto-go, Scioto-go, or Saioto-go in secret to better fl avoring. Surely a bottle of Kikko-Man is an Japanese). Th ey took with them several hundred kegs of miso asset which should grace every housewife’s kitchen shelf– and shoyu, marking the beginning of large scale exports of illustrated recipe booklets tell you all about it. Write for a these products from Japan. In 1879 Mr. Komoto started to copy.” Below the KikkoMan logo inside a hexagon is written: sell shoyu under the Kikkoman shoyu brand in California. “Since 1630.” A photo shows a large can of KikkoMan Shoyu.

Line drawings (illustrations) show various world-famous Date of Introduction: 1957. buildings. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Note: Th is is the earliest English-language document seen Directory. 1957. p. 425. Kauai Shoyu Factory (Sen Watanabe, (July 2011) linking the date “1630” with Kikkoman. Address: proprietor). Kapaia, Kauai. Not listed 1965. 11, 3-chome, Koamicho, Nihonbashi, Tokyo, Japan. 867. Product Name: Tofu. 862. Product Name: Aburage (Deep-Fried Tofu Pouches). Manufacturer’s Name: Kishimoto Tofu Factory. Manufacturer’s Name: Green Mill Food manufacturing Ltd. Manufacturer’s Address: Waiehu, Maui. Manufacturer’s Address: 914 Coolidge St., Honolulu, Oahu, Date of Introduction: 1957. Hawaii. Phone: 992-370. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Island Date of Introduction: 1957. Directory. 1957. Kishimoto Tofu Factory. Waiehu, Maui. Not How Stored: Refrigerated. listed 1964. New Product–Documentation: 1957 Honolulu City Directory. Green Mill Food Manufacturing, Ltd. (Kaiso 868. Koss, Mayburn. 1958. Food: From Japan. Store on the Yasuda, President). Tofu, aburage, konnyaku. 914 Coolidge, Upper West Side off ers wide variety of Far East delicacies. Honolulu, HI 96814. Phone 992-370. Hawaii Directory of New York Times. March 12. p. 37. Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Green Mill Food • Summary: About the Oriental Food Shop at Amsterdam Manufacturing Co. Same address and phone. Ave. and 124th St., run by Joseph Oyama. “Soy sauce from Japan, lighter and less sweet than the 863. Product Name: Tofu. American and Chinese varieties, comes in bottles and tins in Manufacturer’s Name: Hanao Tofu Factory. In 1964 probably a wide range of sizes. Th e most popular brand is Kikko Man” becomes the Hanato Tofu Factory. [Kikkoman]. Manufacturer’s Address: Honalo, Island of Hawaii. “Th e foods most frequently requested at the Oriental Date of Introduction: 1957. Food Shop are those that go into Sukiyaki, probably the best New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Island known Japanese dish among foreigners.” It can be cooked Directory. 1957. Hanao Tofu Factory. Honalo, Island of quickly, and at the table. Ingredients called for in a recipe Hawaii. 1964 Directory. Not listed, but there is the Hanato include: “1 Tofu (fresh bean curd)... ½ cup soy sauce... ½ Tofu Factory in Honalo, which was active as of 1967. Note, is teaspoon Aji-No-Moto (monosodium glutamate).” this all a continuation of Tamao Hanao Tofu of Kealakekua, Island of Hawaii, or a separate company? 869. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Tanaka Tofu Mfg. Co. 864. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 1358 N. Clark (rear), Chicago, IL Manufacturer’s Name: Higa Tofu Factory. 60626. Phone: WH 4-3938. Manufacturer’s Address: 829 Kialuea, Kahului, Maui. Date of Introduction: 1958. Date of Introduction: 1957. How Stored: Refrigerated. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Island New Product–Documentation: Chicago Shimpo, Inc. 1958. Directory. 1957. Higa Tofu Factory. 829 Kialuea, Kahului, Chicago Japanese American directory. Page 19: 1/8 page Maui. Not listed 1966. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers: ad for: “Tanaka Tofu Mfg. Co., 1358 N. Clark (rear). WH Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Higa Tofu Factory, Kahului, Maui. 4-3938.” Th e top 30% of the ad is in English; the rest is in Phone: 728441. Japanese. Page 46: Under “Food manufacturers” and again under “Food markets and groceries” are listings (entirely in 865. Product Name: Tofu. English) for Tanaka Tofu Mfg. Co. at the address and phone Manufacturer’s Name: Kameya Tofu Factory. shown above. Plus: “Aft er 2 pm call DI 8-9703.” Manufacturer’s Address: 282 Momi Lane, Wailuku, Maui. Date of Introduction: 1957. 870. Chicago Shimpo, Inc. 1958. Chicago Japanese American New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai directory. Chicago, Illinois: Th e Chicago Shimpo, Inc. 30 cm. Island Directory. 1957. Kameya Tofu Factory. 282 Mami [Eng; jap] Ln., Wailuku, Maui. Not listed 1967. Hawaii Directory • Summary: In Japanese characters at the top left of the cover: of Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Komeya Tofu Nikkei-jin Shikago Jushoroku. Th is directory, which sells Factory. 282 Momi Lane, Wailuku, Maui. Phone: 33228. for $1.00, also contains many space ads. On the cover is a photo of the Chicago skyline behind a public park in which 866. Product Name: Soy Sauce. there is a white band shell (a bandstand having at the rear a Manufacturer’s Name: Kauai Shoyu Factory. sounding board shaped like a huge concave seashell) and in Manufacturer’s Address: Kapaia, Kauai. the distance a fountain.

Page 14: Half-page ad for: “Pacifi c Trading Co. General Date of Introduction: 1959. May. importer and exporter. 884 W. Erie St., Chicago 22, Illinois. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Can. Th ey also have offi ces in Los Angeles (119 S. Central Ave.) How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. and New York City (57-10 38th Ave.). Items they import New Product–Documentation: Francis Kalnay. 1959. House include Kikkoman shoyu, Ajinomoto, and rice. Beautiful. May. p. 174-75. “Soybean has all the answers.” Page 15: Half page ad for Aji-no-moto (Tokyo, Japan) Photo of the can and label. Th e front panel shows a bowl of titled “Mother knows best.” “When it comes to cooking food the product. with hearty, old-fashioned fl avor, mother knows best–she always seasons with Aji-no-Moto.” “99+% pure monosodium 873. Product Name: Hime Brand Shinano Frozen Bean glutamate.” Curds [Dried-Frozen Tofu]. Page 19: 1/8 page ad for: “Tanaka Tofu Mfg. Co., 1358 Manufacturer’s Name: Pacifi c Trading Co. (Importer, N. Clark (rear). WH 4-3938.” Th e top 30% of the ad is Distributor). Made in Japan. in English; the rest is in Japanese. Same page: ¼ page ad Manufacturer’s Address: San Francisco, Los Angeles, New for Fujimoto & Company, 302 South 4th West, Salt Lake York. City, Utah. Tel. EMpire 4-8279. Illustrations show: (1) Th e Date of Introduction: 1959. May. company’s Kanesho brand; (2) A Japanese woman kneeling Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Bag. behind a porcelain mortar (suribachi), holding a wooden How Stored: Shelf stable. pestle (surikogi), and using it to grind miso until it is smooth. New Product–Documentation: Francis Kalnay. 1959. House Th e top 25% of the ad is in English; the rest is in Japanese. Beautiful. May. p. 174-75. “Soybean has all the answers.” Th e company also makes and sells koji. Photo of the bag and label. Illustration of snow-capped peaks. Page 46: Under “Food manufacturers” and again under “Shinshu Meisan” (“Famous product of Shinshu Prefecture”). “Food markets and groceries” are listings (entirely in English) for Tanaka Tofu Mfg. Co. at the address and phone shown 874. Kikkoman International Inc. 1959. Kikkoman soy sauce: above. Plus: “Aft er 2 pm call DI 8-9703.” Turkey more tantalizing that you’ve ever tasted! (Ad). Los Talk with Karl Matsushita, director, Japanese-American Angeles Times. Nov. 25. p. A2. National Library in San Francisco. 2008. Feb. 1. He thinks these directories were fi rst published aft er World War II. His library has only one volume of this periodical published in 1985; he does not know when the fi rst volume was published. Th e War Relocation Authority (WRA), aft er World War II, pushed Japanese to relocate in Chicago and the Midwest, where they felt there would be less anti-Japanese sentiment. Address: 1310 N. Wells St., Chicago 10, Illinois. Phone: WHitehall 3-2326.

871. Product Name: Wel-Pac brand Kinako. Manufacturer’s Name: Pacifi c Mutual Sales Inc. Manufacturer’s Address: - Date of Introduction: 1959. May. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Plastic bag. How Stored: Shelf stable. New Product–Documentation: Francis Kalnay. 1959. House Beautiful. May. p. 174-75. “Soybean has all the answers.” Photo of the label. Th is product is probably imported from Japan. Note that the Tokyo Food Processing Corp. in Brooklyn, New York, owned the “Wel Pac” brand in the early 1980s.

872. Product Name: Hime Brand Yakidofu: Baked Bean Curd. Manufacturer’s Name: Pacifi c Trading Co. (Importer, Distributor). Made in Japan. Manufacturer’s Address: San Francisco, Los Angeles, New • Summary: A large black and white ad. “Simply baste with York. a marinade of: 1 cup Kikkoman soy sauce*, ½ cup sherry

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 194 wine, 1 tbsp. [tablespoon] sugar (brown preferred), ½ tsp. Times. Oct. 27. p. A14. [teaspoon] ground pepper. Gives that beautiful golden-brown • Summary: Th e recipe is Fish fancier’s delight. Th is is color! Marvelous for left -overs, too! * = Recommended by Kikkoman’s fi rst “Recipe of the week” ad. For the fi rst time Gene Beals, manager of the California Turkey Promotion there appears a tiny cartoon of the head of a cute little Advisory Board.” girl (like Shirley Temple) wearing a chef’s hat; it becomes Photos show: (1) A turkey with tail feathers fanned. (2) A Kikkoman symbol in this series of recipes. Th is cartoon bottle of Kikkoman soy sauce. “All-purpose seasoning. Since and a bottle of Kikkoman soy sauce appear as graphics in 1630. Made by Noda Shoyu Co., Ltd. Made in Japan.” (3) A subsequent ads in this series. small portrait photo of Gene Beals wearing a white chef’s top hat. (4) Th e Kikkoman logo with the stylized character 879. Kikkoman International Inc. 1960. Kikkoman all- meaning ten thousand inside of a hexagon, the symbol for a purpose soy sauce: Recipe of the week (Ad). Los Angeles turtle. Times. Nov. 3. p. A10. Note: Th is is the earliest ad seen (July 2011) for Kikkoman • Summary: Th e recipe, Savory cream vegetable sauce, soy sauce in a major American newspaper. includes ¼ cup Kikkoman soy sauce.

875. Kikkoman International Inc. 1960. Kikkoman soy sauce: 880. Kikkoman International Inc. 1960. Kikkoman all- “All-purpose” seasoning (Ad). Los Angeles Times. Jan. 12. p. purpose soy sauce: Recipe of the week (Ad). Los Angeles 84. Times. Dec. 8. p. 28. • Summary: A small black and white ad. “Taste-tantalizing • Summary: Th e recipe, Fish fancier’s delight, calls for a fl avor!–Imported. Since 1630. Delicious for Sukiyaki, marinade containing ¼ cup Kikkoman soy sauce. tempura, meats, poultry, fi sh, basting, gravies, soups, vegetables, rice, noodles, salad dressings.” 881. Product Name: Tofu. Photos show: (1) A bottle of Kikkoman soy sauce. (2) Th e Manufacturer’s Name: Chicago Tofu Mfg. Co. Kikkoman logo. Manufacturer’s Address: 3255 N. Holstead, Chicago, IL Note: Th is is the earliest ad seen (Oct. 2006) for 60614. Phone: 312-525-3823. Kikkoman soy sauce in the New York Times. Address: Date of Introduction: 1960. Importer. Head offi ce: 900 Marin St., San Francisco 4, How Stored: Refrigerated. California. New York Offi ce: 33-59 Vernon Blvd., Long Island New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e City 6, N.Y. Book of Tofu. p. 313. Company is named Chicago Tofu Mfg. Co. at 3255 N. Halstead. 876. Kikkoman International Inc. 1960. Lose fi ve pounds Will, Joanne. 1977. “Too few knew tofu could do so in six days with “No Hunger” diet: Kikkoman soy sauce at much for so little.” Chicago Tribune. June 11. p. N_A19-20, leading grocers (Ad). Los Angeles Times. Jan. 26. p. 4. or W_11-12. Chicago Tofu is located at 3255 N. Halstead. • Summary: A small black-and-white ad. “See the January It is run by Mr. and Mrs. Minoru Kanki, who took over the 1960 issue of Coronet magazine... citing health and reducing company about two years ago. values of rice and soy sauce.” A photo shows a bottle of Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu Kikkoman soy sauce. (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Note: Th is ad also appeared in the Jan. 27 and 29 issues. and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 395. Company name now given as Nomura Tofu Co., same address. Owner: Mr. 877. Kikkoman International Inc. 1960. Barbecue fun and Nomura. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1979. July. New Tofu Shops & better eating begin with Kikkoman (Ad). Los Angeles Times. Soy Dairies in the West. Name now given as Chicago Tofu May 11. p. 17. Co. • Summary: “Easy does it with this magic marinade! ½ cup Soyfoods Center. 1980. Sept. Tofu shops and soy dairies Kikkoman soy sauce. 1 tbsp. sugar (to taste). ½ cup sherry in the West (2 pages, typeset). Gives the company’s name as wine. 1 clove garlic crushed. Marinate the ribs, steak, lamb, Chicago Tofu Co. Owner: Mr. Minoru Kanki. halved chicken or turkey about 20 minutes. Place on the grill, Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Soyfoods Industry and turn occasionally and baste with Kikkoman marinade until Market. Gives starting year as 1960. Note: Last Chicago City a deep golden brown. Simple–but sensational! All-purpose Directory at Sutro library is 1928-29. FIND/SVP. 1981, May. Kikkoman soy sauce: basic for better barbecue.” “Th e tofu market: Overview of a high-potential industry.” p. Photos show: (1) A family of four people standing around 92. Chicago Tofu Company now makes between 4,000 and a barbecue. (2) A bottle of Kikkoman soy sauce. 5,000 lb/week of tofu. It is packaged in plastic tubs with heat- sealed tops. Th e packages are sold in 16 and 18 oz sizes. Th e 878. Kikkoman International Inc. 1960. Kikkoman all- wholesale prices is about $0.65/lb and retail is $85 to $0.89/lb. purpose soy sauce: Recipe of the week (Ad). Los Angeles

882. Product Name: Butterfi sh Misozuke. Maui, Hawaii 96793. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Manufacturer’s Name: Hawaiian Miso & Soy Co. Tofu. p. 314. Th e address is 1830 Mill St., Wailuku, Maui, HI Manufacturer’s Address: 1714 Mary St., Honolulu, Oahu, HI 96793. 96819. Phone: 808-841-7354. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu Date of Introduction: 1960. (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops New Product–Documentation: Oda. 1983. Hawaii Herald. and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 395. Teruya Tofu Factory, Oct. 7. p. 8, 17. Th e company produces about 90 tons/year of 1830 Mill St., Wailuku, Maui, HI 96793. Phone: 808-244- the miso marinated fi sh. 5313. Owner: Unknown. Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. 883. Product Name: Diamond Shoyu Lower Salt Soy Sauce. 22. Manufacturer’s Name: Honolulu Sake Brewery & Ice Co. Ltd. Bonnie Mandoe. 1982. Bestways. June. p. 91. “Soy power. Manufacturer’s Address: 2150 Booth Rd., Honolulu, Oahu, Part II.” Th e author recently had the opportunity to visit an Hawaii. old Hawaiian tofu shop on the island of Maui. Th e Teruya Date of Introduction: 1960. family has made Valley Isle Tofu there since 1916. Walter and Ingredients: Water, soybeans, wheat, salt, malic acid, Takeshi Teruya now make the tofu. Takeshi has been making disodium 5-inosinate, caramel, sodium benzoate, a tofu since he was age 15. preservative. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 16 fl uid oz (1 pint) bottle. 886. Product Name: Tofu. How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. Manufacturer’s Name: Tomori Tofu Factory. New Product–Documentation: Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Manufacturer’s Address: 725 Kilauea Drive, Hilo, Island of Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, Hawaii. Phone: 808-959-8516. miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Shows a label and gives the address. Date of Introduction: 1960. Th e company is still in business. Label. Received Feb. 1988 New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Island from Honolulu Sake Brewery Co. Ltd. 5 by 3 inches. Red Directory. 1960. Tomori Tofu Factory. 725 Kilauea Dr., Hilo. and black on white. “Lower Salt. Salt content: approximately Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. 5.0%. Sodium 2055 mg/100 gm, 111 mg/teaspoon (5 cc). Tomori Tofu Factory. 725 Kilauea Ave., Hilo, Hawaii. Phone Refrigerate aft er opening.” Letter from Takao Nihei. 1988. of 52021. Not listed in 1965. Letter from Lorraine L. Oda. July 19. Gives date of introduction as 1960. 1984. Aug. 7. Says that Tomori’s Tofu Factory Inc. is at 909 W. Kawailani, Hilo, Island of Hawaii, HI 96720. 884. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Shimokawa Grocery & Tofu Factory. 887. Kikkoman International Inc. 1961. Wonderful fl avor: Formerly Yokoyama Tofu Factory (1945). Excitement imported from Japan. Kikkoman all-purpose soy Manufacturer’s Address: 2639 South King, Honolulu, Oahu, sauce (Ad). New York Times. June 29. p. 23. Hawaii. • Summary: Th is is Kikkoman’s fi rst large ad in the New Date of Introduction: 1960. York Times. “Try these taste-tempting recipes–So easy and New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. so good!” Recipes are given for: Shishkebab, Steak superb, 1959-60. Shimokawa Grocery & Tofu Factory (Teizo Heavenly hamburger, Chicken exotique, and Fish favorite. Shimokawa, proprietor). 2639 S. King, Honolulu. Hawaii A sidebar across the bottom of the ad states: “Kikkoman Directory of Manufacturers. 1966. (Revised 21 Jan. 1965). p. soy sauce now on sale at these leading markets: A&P Food 13. Tofu (Bean curd). Shimokawa Tofu factory, 2639 South Stores, Acme Super Markets, Associated Food Stores, Big King St. Apple, Cracker Barrell, D’Agostino Supers, Daitch-Shopwell Super Markets, Davidson Super Markets, Einhorn Super 885. Product Name: Tofu. Markets, Fair-Mart Supers, Felco Food Stores, Food Farm, Manufacturer’s Name: Teruya Tofu Factory. Food King Super Markets, Food Queen Stores, Food Town, Manufacturer’s Address: McGerrow Village, Puunene, Maui. Garden Markets, Grand Union Stores, Gristede Stores, Hill’s Phone: 808-244-5313. Super Markets, Key Food Stores, Korvelle’s Lou-Mac Stores, Date of Introduction: 1960. Mayfair Super Markets, Mutual Super Markets, Olinsky How Stored: Refrigerated. Markets, Packard-Bamburger, Peter Reeves Stores, Royal New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Island Farms, Sloan’s Super Markets, Smilen Foods, Sunrise Super Directory. 1960. Teruya Tofu Factory. McGerrow Village, Markets, Supreme Food Stores, 2 Guys, Valley Fair Super Puunene, Maui. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers: Tofu Markets (Many additional markets are currently being (bean curd). 1964. Teruya Tofu Factory. Puunene, Maui, supplied and will have Kikkoman on display shortly.)” Hawaii. Phone: 727355. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. “So superior. It’s sensational.” Photos show the Kikkoman 1969. p. 19. Teruya Tofu Factory, 1830 Mill St., Wailuku, bottle and each of the dishes prepared from the recipes. An

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 196 illustration (line drawing) shows an American man wearing a Macrobiotic Review (Towson, Maryland). 1980. 2(2):2. “Th e white chef’s hat (with the Kikkoman logo on the front) and a soy sauce story. For almost twenty years Chico-San, Inc. has white barbecue apron. imported the very best natural, traditional soy sauce. Our Lima Soy Sauce is made with handcraft ed techniques, using 888. Kikkoman International Inc. 1961. Kikkoman: Recipe of only natural ingredients... It is aged through two yearly cycles the week (Ad). New York Times. Aug. 10. p. 30. of seasonal changes in large wooden casks.” Leafl et. 8½ by 11 • Summary: Th e recipe, Chef’s choice chuck, calls for ½ cup inches, color. Reprinted in Soyfoods Marketing. Lafayette, Kikkoman soy sauce. Across the bottom of the ad: “All- CA: Soyfoods Center. “Taste the diff erence. Only Chico- purpose Kikkoman Soy Sauce.” A photo shows the Kikkoman San’s Lima Soy and Tamari Sauces bring you the real taste of bottle. A small illustration (cartoon) shows the cute little girl traditional Japanese preparation.” in the chef’s hat. 892. Product Name: Denver To-fu: Soybean Cake. 889. Kikkoman International Inc. 1961. Kikkoman (Ad). New Manufacturer’s Name: Denver To-O-Fu Co. York Times. Sept. 24. p. 111. Manufacturer’s Address: 6150 N. Federal Blvd., Westminster • Summary: “Teriyaki sauce: 2/3 cup Kikkoman [i.e., soy (N. Denver), CO 80221. Phone: 808-538-1305. sauce]. 2 tbsps sugar, ¼ cup white wine, ½ tbsp. ginger... Date of Introduction: 1962. Marinate [meat] 1 hour in Teriyaki sauce.” Ingredients: Soybeans, water, nigari. Note 1. Th is is the earliest English-language document Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 19 oz (538 gm). seen (March 2006) that contains the term “teriyaki sauce.” How Stored: Refrigerated. Th e Oxford English Dictionary Online (Draft additions New Product–Documentation: Denver City Directory. 1962. March 2004) defi nes teriyaki as: “A mixture of soy sauce and First listing for Denver To-O-Fu Co. (Kiichi B. Yoshida), soy various other fl avourings (typically including mirin, sake, beans whol[esale], 2430 Larimer. Same listing in 1973. and sugar) used as the marinade or glaze for teriyaki dishes, Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 899. and oft en sold ready-made. Also: teriyaki marinade, teriyaki Directory entry, under “Food Products.” In Japanese: Denbaa sauce.” Tofu-sho (Yoshida). In English: Denver Tofu Co., 2430 Larimer St., Denver, Colorado. Phone: 623-5031. 890. Product Name: Tofu. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 313. Manufacturer’s Name: Morishige’s Store. By 1968 Morishige Denver Tofu Co., 6150 N. Federal Blvd., Westminster (N. Tofu. Denver). Tel: 426-0122. Manufacturer’s Address: 2210 South King, Honolulu, Oahu, Label. 1980, undated. 3 by 2.5 inches. Green on white. Hawaii. “Denver to-fu: Soybean cake. Fresh. Keep refrigerated. Date of Introduction: 1961. Denver Tofu Co., Denver, Colorado 80221.” Same design, New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. 1980, 14 oz. size but on plastic fi lm. Orange, black, green and 1960-61. Morishige’s Store (Akiro & Mrs. Nakayo Morishige; white on clear fi lm. tofu manufacturers). 2210 S King, Honolulu. Not listed Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. 1962-63. 1967-68 Directory. Morishige Tofu, 2210 S. King St. 22. Owner: Mr. Haruhisa Yamamoto. Kate Bulkeley. 1988. Continues through 1970. Denver Business Journal. July 11. “Soy Products New Favor Spices Denver Tofu.” Denver Tofu Inc., now owned by 891. Product Name: Lima Tamari Soy Sauce. president Haru Yamamoto, is 63 years old. He bought the Manufacturer’s Name: Chico-San Inc. (Importer). Made in company in 1973, at which time he made about 150 one- Japan. pound pieces of tofu a day. Now he makes 2,000 to 3,000 Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 1004, Chico, CA 95927. pieces a day. Date of Introduction: 1962. Talk with Mr. Yamamoto. 1988. Aug. 25. Th e company New Product–Documentation: Note: Th is is the earliest was founded in 1925 by a Mr. Sakurai, and was then located known soyfood product imported to the USA from Japan by in downtown Denver. In about 1960 Mr. Kiichi Yoshida a Caucasian-run U.S. company. Th e product is actually shoyu, bought the company, and in 1973 he sold it to Mr. Yamamoto. named aft er Lima Ohsawa. At that time it was located on Larimer St. From the beginning Midwest Natural Foods Distributors, Inc. 1972. Catalog only one product had been produced, a fairly fi rm tofu and price list. Nov. 1. Ann Arbor, Michigan. 58 p. See p. 7. coagulated with calcium sulfate. Within 3 months, Mr. “Lima Tamari Soy Sauce.” Sold in 8 fl . oz, pints, and quarts. Yamamoto moved the plant to 6150 N. Federal St., a much Chico-San Products. 1973. July. p. 4, 13. “Made in a bigger location. In July 1978 Wm. Shurtleff and Wataru Takai little rustic factory in Northern Japan operated by the same visited his plant. In April 1988 the company moved to 3825 family for more than ten generations. Aged for two years.” Blake St., doubling its production space. It now makes 9 Same publication, 1981. Jan. p. 13. Ad by Chico-San Inc. in diff erent tofu products plus Soy Drink.

Form fi lled out by Haruhisa Yamamoto. 1998. July 14. Jackson St. Denver Tofu Co., 3825 Blake St., Denver, Colorado 80205. Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 314. Phone: 303-298-8638 (298-TOFU). Year and month the Directory entry under “Food Companies.” In Japanese: Fuji company started making and selling tofu: August 1973 [sic, Tofu Seizôsho [Fuji Tofu Mfg. Co.]. In English: Fuji Tofu Co., 1925]. 248 E. Jackson St., San Jose, California. Phone: 297-1666. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. A 893. Product Name: Tofu. traditional shop. Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing Manufacturer’s Name: Tanita Tofu Factory. List. 1981. Jan. 22. Owner: Reiso and Steve Kake. Article in Manufacturer’s Address: 189a Ponahawai, Hilo, Island of West. 1983. Nov. Make way for tofu. About Fuji Tofu Co. Hawaii. Reiso Kake started Fuji Tofu Co. 20 years ago. Date of Introduction: 1962. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu New Product–Documentation: Hawaii, Maui, Kauai Island (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Directory. 1962. Tanita Tofu Factory. 189a Ponahawai, Hilo, and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 393. Owner: Reiso and Steve Island of Hawaii. Active as of 1967. Hawaii Directory of Kake. Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Tanita Tofu Factory, Talk with Kenny Nozaki. 1988. Aug. 25. Reiso Kake 189-A Ponahawai St., Hilo, Island of Hawaii. Phone: 51220. started this shop in 1964 just down the street from and in Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1969. p. 19. T. Tanita competition with San Jose Tofu Co. Th e company was sold in Tofu Factory, 189-A Ponahawai St., Hilo, Island of Hawaii 1987. 96720. Tofu, aburage. Talk with Tom Schmitz of San Jose. 1994. March 29. Linda Lam, who is Chinese-Vietnamese, purchased this 894. Product Name: Tofu. company (now named Fuji Fresh Tofu Co.) 7 years ago. She is Manufacturer’s Name: Matsuda-Hinode Tofu Mfg. Co. a native Vietnamese, the daughter of ethnic Chinese parents Manufacturer’s Address: Aft er 1969 at 526 Stanford Ave., Los who moved to Vietnam. Both she and her parents are lifelong Angeles, CA 90021. Phone: 213-624-3615. vegetarians. She learned how to make tofu in Vietnam at a Date of Introduction: 1963. Buddhist temple during the early 1960s. She would spend How Stored: Refrigerated. her school vacations there. Th en she came to this country New Product–Documentation: Los Angeles City Directories. and went into the foodservice business. When she saw that 1938 and 1941. No listing for either Matsuda or Hinode. the shop was for sale, and now contained new automated Takai. 1971. Tofu Shops in America. At 526 Stanford Ave. and semi-computerized equipment, she bought it from the Uses 1,600-2,000 kg/day of soybeans. 35 employees. Makes Japanese owner, Mr. Kake, who was retiring. She still makes tofu and age. tofu using nigari as a coagulant. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu 896. Product Name: Tofu. (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Manufacturer’s Name: Hawaiian Fruit Flavors. and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 392. Matsuda-Hinode Tofu Manufacturer’s Address: 76 Kilauea Ave., Hilo, Hawaii. Co., 526 S. Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, California 90013. Phone: 54798. Phone: 213-624-3615 or 624-9067. Owner: Mr. Shoan Date of Introduction: 1964. Yamauchi. Th is is the largest and probably the oldest tofu New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of shop in the Western world; a modern factory. Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Hawaii Directory Soya Bluebook. 1980. p. 55. Matsuda-Hinode Tofu Co., of Manufacturers. 1969. p. 17. Hawaiian Fruit Flavors, 526 S. Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90013. Soyfoods 800 Leilani St., Hilo, Island of Hawaii, 96720. Th ey make Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. 22. Owner: konnyaku and tofu. Shoan Yamauchi. FIND/SVP. 1981, May. “Th e tofu market: Overview of a high-potential industry.” p. 64. Th e company 897. Product Name: Hinode Natto. now makes about 20,000 lb/day of tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Hinode Tofu Company. Manufacturer’s Address: 526 Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, CA 895. Product Name: Tofu. 90013. Manufacturer’s Name: Fuji Tofu Co. Date of Introduction: 1964. Manufacturer’s Address: 248 Jackson St., San Jose, CA 95112. New Product–Documentation: Interview with Mr. Shoan Phone: 408-297-1666. Yamauchi. 1982. June 29. He started making natto in 1964 Date of Introduction: 1964. and now makes 5,000 packages a week. How Stored: Refrigerated. Pantry Supermarkets. 1983. “Double coupons!” (Ad). Los New Product–Documentation: San Jose City Directory. Angeles Times. Feb. 24. p. SG3. Th e section titled “Oriental 1969. First listing for Fuji Tofu Co. (Reiso Kake), bakery, 248 foods” states: “Hinode natto (steamed soybeans) 5 oz.–49¢.”

Manufacturer’s Address: Kekaha, Kauai, Hawaii. 898. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1964. Manufacturer’s Name: Horio Tofu Shop. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 87, Honomu, Island of Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Hawaii. Phone: 633461. Date of Introduction: 1964. 903. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of Manufacturer’s Name: Oshiro (Katsuko) Tofu. Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Manufacturer’s Address: Kekaha, Kauai, Hawaii. Date of Introduction: 1964. 899. Product Name: Kinako (Roasted Soy Flour). New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of Manufacturer’s Name: Kanai Nissei Shokai. Later called Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Hawaii Directory of Kanai Tofu Factory. Manufacturers. 1969. p. 18. Katsuko Oshiro, Kekaha, Kauai, Manufacturer’s Address: 515 Ward Ave., Honolulu, Oahu, HI Hawaii. Tofu. 96814. Phone: 581305. Date of Introduction: 1964. 904. Product Name: Tofu. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of Manufacturer’s Name: Oshiro Tofu Factory. Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Kanai Nissei Shokai, Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 67, Paauilo, Island of 515 Ward Ave., Honolulu, HI 96814. Phone: 581305. Owners: Hawaii. Phone: 783542. Mr. and Mrs. Alton Noboyoshi Kanai. Tofu, aburage, Date of Introduction: 1964. konnyaku, natto, kinako. Employees: 11. Wholesale, retail, New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of direct to customer. Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1969. p. 18. Oshiro Tofu Factory, Paauilo, 900. Product Name: Tofu. Island of Hawaii, Hawaii. Makes tofu and tofu products. Manufacturer’s Name: Matsumoto (Hitoshi) Tofu. Later called Matsumoto Tofu Shop. 905. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 2984-B Ewalu St., Lihue, Kauai. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamamotoya (Takiji) Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1964. Manufacturer’s Address: Koloa, Kauai, Hawaii. Phone: How Stored: Refrigerated. 746881. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of Date of Introduction: 1964. Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Hitoshi Matsumoto, New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of Lihue, Kauai. Not listed in any Hawaiian City Directory Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. Note: Mrs. Tomi prior to 1968. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1969. p. Kataoka started a tofu shop in this same small town in 1935. 18. Matsumoto Tofu Shop, 2984-B Ewalu St., Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii 96766. Tofu and aburage. 906. Product Name: Tofu. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamasaki Tofu. Matsumoto Tofu Shop. 2984-B Ewalu St., Lihue, Kauai, HI Manufacturer’s Address: 936 Kekaulike, Honolulu, Oahu, 96766. Hawaii. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu Date of Introduction: 1964. (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 394. Owner: Mr. Matsumoto. 1963-64. Yamasaki Tofu (Harry H. Yamasaki, proprietor). Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. 936 Kekaulike, Honolulu. Same listing in 1966-67 directory. 22. Owner: Mr. Matsumoto. Phone: 808-245-6141. Soyfoods In 1967-68 address has changed to 930 Kekaulike St. Same in Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Dec. 8. Address 1970. listed as 3469 Maono St., Lihue, Kauai, HI 96766. 907. Kikkoman International Inc. 1964? Th e Japanese way 901. Product Name: Tofu. with food and fl owers (Brochure). San Francisco, California. Manufacturer’s Name: Nagano (Masayo) Tofu. 16 p. Undated. 12 x 17 cm. Manufacturer’s Address: Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii. • Summary: On the cover of this color brochure is a red Date of Introduction: 1964. fl ower with green leaves hanging from a aged board, against a New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of light gray background. In the lower right is the red Kikkoman Manufacturers: Tofu (bean curd). 1964. logo. Th e fi rst six pages contain text and photos related to the Japanese way with fl owers–fl ower arranging. Th e rest of 902. Product Name: Tofu. the brochure concerns the Japanese way with food, including Manufacturer’s Name: Okamoto (Tokiyo) Tofu. recipes and color photos of the dishes prepared from those

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 199 recipes. All the recipes except two feature meat, fi sh, or poultry. Th ese two are: Kikko-cream vegetable sauce (for asparagus, caulifl ower, or cabbage), and Shoyu corn on the cob. Th is brochure is printed in Japan. Kikkoman soy sauce is “Brewed by Noda Shoyu Co., Ltd, Japan.”

908. Kikkoman International Inc. 1964? Delicious sukiyaki, tempura, teriyaki made by Kikkoman way (Leafl et). San Francisco, California. 4 panels. Each side. Undated. 21 x 8 cm each panel.

• Summary: On the cover of this color leafl et is a large bottle of Kikkoman of Kikkoman All-purpose Soy Sauce to the left and in front of some red meat–on a pink background. Th e fi rst two inside folds show color photos of Kikkoman soy sauce in 7 diff erent sizes and containers (from 5 fl oz glass dispenser to 4.75 gallon wooden keg, all “Brewed by Noda Shoyu Co., Ltd., Japan”), the addresses of Kikkoman’s offi ces in San Francisco, Los Angeles, and New York, a blue

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 200 and white aerial view illustration of a huge Kikkoman plant half-page recipe and a half-page color photo. Th e recipes are: in Japan, a half-page article about Kikkoman and Japanese Kikkoburgers. Paradise isles fried chicken. “Best ever” beef cooking, and the bold statement that Kikkoman is “Th e short ribs. Pork roast royale. Savory fi sh sauce. Beef teriyaki. purveyor to the Imperial Household.” Th e next 4 inside Kikko-qued chicken. Salad dressing. How to make delicious panels contain defi nitions of sukiyaki, tempura, and teriyaki, fried rice. Tuna pilaf. Lamb stew superb. Meat loaf. and their corresponding recipes–all using beef, seafood, Th is brochure is printed in Japan. or chicken. Th ere are short recipes for steak sauce, salad Note: Th is brochure must have been printed aft er 1964 dressing, vegetable sauce, and seafood sauce. On the back because in 1965 Kikkoman International opened a branch panel are black-and-white photos of Japanese table utensils, offi ce in Chicago, and that offi ce is listed on the back of the with their names. brochure. Address: San Francisco, Los Angeles, New York, Note: Th is leafl et was published before 1966 because in Chicago. 1965 Kikkoman opened a branch offi ce in Chicago, Illinois. Th at offi ce is not mentioned in this leafl et. Address: 900 911. Product Name: Miso. Marin [Main] St., San Francisco 24, California. Manufacturer’s Name: Japan Foods Corporation (Importer). Made in Japan. 909. Product Name: Diamond Teriyaki Sauce. Hawaiian Manufacturer’s Address: New York. Barbecue Marinade. Date of Introduction: 1966. April. Manufacturer’s Name: Honolulu Sake Brewery & Ice Co., New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Ltd. Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 236. Manufacturer’s Address: Honolulu, Oahu, HI 96813. Date of Introduction: 1965. 912. Product Name: Miso. Ingredients: Water, soy beans, wheat, salt, sugar, spices, mirin Manufacturer’s Name: Nishimoto Trading Co. (Importer). (sweet rice wine for cooking), disodium 5’-inosinate, and Made in Japan. sodium benzoate, a preservative. Manufacturer’s Address: New York. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 16 fl uid oz (1 pint) bottle. Date of Introduction: 1966. April. How Stored: Shelf stable. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e New Product–Documentation: Label. Received Feb. 1988 Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 236. from Honolulu Sake Brewery Co. Ltd. 8.25 by 3.25 inches. Black, white, and pink on yellow, with color illustration of a 913. Product Name: Miyako brand Edamame. skewer being barbecued. “Our ‘Original’ Teriyaki Sauce from Manufacturer’s Name: Mutual Trading Co., Inc. (Importer- Hawaii.” Suggestions for using on steak, chicken, pork, lamb, Distributor). Imported from Japan. spareribs, fi sh, hamburger, meatballs. Letter from Takao Manufacturer’s Address: 803 E. 1st St., Los Angeles, CA Nihei. 1988. July 19. Gives year of introduction as 1965. 90012. Phone: (213) 626-9458. Note: Th is is the earliest known commercial teriyaki Date of Introduction: 1966. July. sauce. Ingredients: Soybeans. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10.5 oz plastic (vinyl) bag. 910. Kikkoman International Inc. 1965? Kikkoman’s How Stored: Frozen. wonderful world of fl avor (Brochure). San Francisco, New Product–Documentation: Talk with and letter (fax) California. 16 p. Undated. 10 x 7 cm. from Atsuko Kanai at Mutual Trading Co. (MTC). 2001. June • Summary: A small (1/8 inch diameter) hole in the 11 and June 14. She has done a lot of digging into her fi les upper left corner of this tiny brochure indicates that it is a but cannot fi nd the original package; however she has been “neckhanger,” designed to be tied to a string or elastic loop able to fi nd lots of dates. Th e fi rst test product was imported and hung around the neck of each bottle of Kikkoman soy from Japan on 30 July 1966. MTC initially imported only sauce. On the cover of this color brochure is a photo of a two cases of 30 x 10.5 oz bags/case; it was imported partly bottle of Kikkoman all-purpose soy sauce above fi ve prepared to study the logistics of importing such a product, and sold meat dishes. On the rear cover, on a yellow background, we to restaurants. She believes that MTC was the fi rst company read: “Kikkoman–delicious directly on meats! A hand is to import edamame to the USA and the fi rst to import or to holding a bottle of Kikkoman soy sauce and pouring it onto sell edamame frozen. Th e next shipment aft er this fi rst trial a hamburger. Above of the Kikkoman logo is written “Since was on 1 July 1970; the package size was reduced to 8 oz from 1630.” 10.5 oz and the number of packages per case increased to 48 On the inside front cover we read: “Eighteen months from 30. During 1970 MTC imported 70 cases frozen from maturing of select quality soy beans and wheat are required Japan and sold them to restaurants in a plain plastic bag with to achieve Kikkoman’s distinctive quality–the winner of thirty a sticker label. MTC’s address at that time was 801 East 1st major international awards.” On each little page inside is a St., Los Angeles, California 900012; that was the company’s

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 201 original offi ce and warehouse from 1926 to 1967, located the company Kanetomi’s. In about 1955 there was a bad fi re three blocks east of central Little Tokyo. in the shop. So Tom moved the shop to 366 S.W. 5th Street, MTC’s records from 1971 to 1976 are missing. In Jan. into a building that he partially owned; the other part was 2001 MTC introduced its “4-color print bag with the ‘heart- owned and occupied by a laundry run by Jim Kanetomi. healthy’ claim.” 24 x 16 oz. bags per case, imported from Aft er Jim took over the company he continued to make the Taiwan. same products, and did not introduce any new ones. Jim sold Note: Th is is the world’s earliest known frozen edamame the company in 1982 to Kuni and Vickie Kobayashi. product. It is also the fi rst frozen edamame product imported to America that has the word “Edamame” in the product 916. Product Name: Shoyu. name. Manufacturer’s Name: Hawaiian Miso & Soy Co. Manufacturer’s Address: 1714 Mary St., Honolulu, Oahu, HI 914. Product Name: Tofu. 96819. Phone: 808-841-7354. Manufacturer’s Name: Ellen’s Tofu Factory. Date of Introduction: 1967. Manufacturer’s Address: 1714 Democrat, Honolulu, Oahu, New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Hawaii. 1966-67. p. 278. Hawaiian Miso & Soy Co. Ltd., 1714 Mary, Date of Introduction: 1966. Honolulu. Not listed 1967-68. 1986 Directory. Listed again New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. under same name and address. Not listed 1987. 1965-66. Ellen’s Tofu Factory (James Wauki, proprietor). 1714 Democrat. Same listing in directories from 1966-1970. 917. Bosworth, Allan R. 1967. America’s concentration Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1969. p. 17. Ellen’s Tofu camps. New York, NY: Norton. 283 p. Plus 16 unnumbered Factory, 1714-A Democrat St., Honolulu, HI 96819. pages of plates. Introduction by Roger Baldwin (Director, 1917-1950, American Civil Liberties Union {ACLU}). Illust. 915. Product Name: Tofu. (plates, incl. portraits). Index. 22 cm. [45 + 290 endnotes] Manufacturer’s Name: Kanetomi’s. Renamed Kobayashi’s • Summary: On the cover: “Th e shocking story of 110,000 Tofu in 1982. Americans behind barbed wire–in the United States–during Manufacturer’s Address: 366 S.W. 5th St., Ontario, OR 97914. World War II. Th eir crime: Japanese ancestors.” Phone: 503-889-5684. Contents: Dedication (“To the past and present members Date of Introduction: 1966. of the Japanese American Citizens League...”). Introduction. How Stored: Refrigerated. Acknowledgments. Th e chapters are numbered, but have no New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e titles. Chronology of the evacuation and the WRA program Book of Tofu. p. 314. (p. 254-57) is “Compiled, for the most part, from WRA, a Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu Story of Human Conservation (1946, U.S. Department of the (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Interior, Government Printing Offi ce, Washington, DC). and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 398. Kanetomi’s, 366 S.W. 5th On the inside front dust jacket: “An important and timely St., P.O. Box 568, Ontario, OR 97914. Phone: 503-889-5684. book, accurate in its facts and just in its conclusions. It is Owner: Jim Kanetomi. well to study this book and learn how absurd and unjust our Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. actions were in a precious era, in order that the future may Jan. 22. Owner: Jim Kanetomi. 1981. Dec. 8. Now listed as not repeat the dubious past”–Pearl S. Buck. Kanetomi’s Soybean Products, at 336 S.W. 5th St., P.O. Box “During World War II, the pride of the American forces 568, Ontario, Oregon 97914. Phone: 503-889-6584. Soyfoods in Europe was the 442nd Regimental Combat Team, the Center Computerized Mailing List. 1983. June 20. Company famous “go-for-broke” all-Nisei outfi t that ran up one of is now Kobayashi’s Soybean Products, 336 S.W. 5th St., P.O. the most impressive combat records in the history of the Box 568, Ontario, Oregon 97914. Phone: 503-889-6584. U.S. Army. At the same time, although they had committed Owner: Mr. Kobayashi. no crime, the parents and families of these heroes were Ann Crosby. 1987. Aug. 17. Argus Observer (Ontario, prisoners in 10 concentration camps spread from California Oregon). “Japanese cooking the tofu way.” Discusses to Arkansas.” Kobayashi’s Tofu in Ontario. “Altogether, 110,000 people of Japanese ancestry–70,000 Talk with Jim Kanetomi. 1988. Nov. 17. Phone: 503-889- [63.6%] of them U.S. citizens by birth–were dislocated from 6392. Th e tofu company that he bought and later renamed their homes and businesses on short notice, herded into Kanetomi’s was founded in 1945 by Tom Amano, his father in assembly centers, and sent to “relocation” camps for as long law. As long as Tom ran the company, it never had a name or as four years. It was a devastating violation of civil rights a sign, not even when Jim took over the company (he didn’t on a mass scale. In this shocking book, Allan R. Bosworth actually buy it) in 1958. Th en Jim went 7-8 years with no tells the little-known story of how prejudice, greed, and name or sign until the local people gradually started calling wartime hysteria contributed to what has been called our

“worst wartime mistake.” Bosworth warns that such mass the application of one party alone.” It was argued from Oct. imprisonment was not an isolated event that could have 12 to Dec. 18, 1944. happened only during World War II; it can happen again, On December 18, 1944, the Supreme Court ruled in favor today, to any group of citizens, whatever their racial or of Mitsuye Endo; she “should be given her liberty.” Justice ancestral origins.” William O. Douglas wrote: “Loyalty is a matter of the heart On the inside rear dusk jacket is a large black and white and mind, not of race, creed, or color... Whatever power the photo of the author, with this brief biography: “Captain Allan War Relocation Authority may have to detain other classes R. Bosworth (U.S. Navy, Retired) is a former newspaperman of citizens, it has no authority to subject citizens who are and the author of fi ft een other books. A native of Texas, he concededly loyal to its leave procedure.” has traveled extensively in Europe and the Far East. He lives Th e unanimous opinion, 9 to 0, was written by William O. in Roanoke, Virginia.” Douglas, with Frank Murphy and Owen Roberts concurring. “Th ere were sixteen Assembly Centers, or ‘reception Remember, that World War II was not over until Sep. centers’ to which the evacuated people were fi rst taken– 1945. But this Supreme Court decision liberated most people carrying by hand all that was permitted in the way of in the internment camps. By December 17, the U.S. Army personal eff ects. Th e centers were set up at race tracks, had sorted, fi led and card indexed Japanese Americans into fairgrounds, livestock exposition facilities, an abandoned three groups: “Nearly 109,000 of them were cleared to go CCC camp,... anywhere in the United States aft er January 20, 1945. “Th e length of operation of the Assembly Centers, until “To be kept in the Centers were 4,963 males, most of tarpaper barracks could be constructed at the desert War them segregants at Tule Lake. Relocation Camps, ranged from 27 days at Mayer, Arizona, “To be excluded from the West Coast were another 4,810 to 215 days at Santa Anita” where the maximum population males, most of whom had asked for expatriation to Japan.” was 18,719 people. Th at’s a lot of people to have at a horse But huge problems for the Japanese Americans still track, even when the horses are running (p. 117-18). Th e remained. Where would they go? Th ey had little or no money. internment ended because of a Supreme Court decision Many had lost their homes and businesses or occupations. declaring it unconstitutional (p. 229-31). James Purcell, a In some places there was open hostility and violence against brave young San Francisco attorney and a fi ghting Irish them. “Still by July, 1945, only 16,000 of more than 60,000 Catholic, had become acquainted with the Nisei and the evacuees remaining in the Centers had moved out. Japanese American Citizens League shortly aft er Pearl Th e tragic story of the Koda family of rice farming Harbor, quickly saw the injustices being heaped upon fame, Keisaburo Koda and his two Nisei sons, William and Japanese Americans. “He protested against the Evacuation, Edward, is told on pages 238-42. Th e “State of California fi led and represented without fee State civil service employees who an escheat proceeding, charging that Keisaburo Koda was were discharged purely because of race.” violating the alien land law by operating through his sons. Finally he decided to challenge the whole constitutionality Under this action, the land could be reverted to the state. Th e of the Evacuation. He carefully chose as his test case Mitsuye family was sent to the Granada Relocation Center. Th e case Endo, who had been dismissed from her civil service Job in was not decided until 1 Oct. 1965, when they had to settle for San Francisco. [Age 22 and an American-born clerical worker a compromise settlement of $362,500.” Th e Kodas had to start in the Department of Motor Vehicles, she had been raised all over again–like so many other Japanese who were snared a Methodist]. “She had never attended a Japanese language by the internment. Address: Roanoke, Virginia, author and school and could neither read nor write Japanese. She was former newspaperman. not a dual citizen. She had a brother serving in the United States Army. Her family did not even subscribe to a Japanese 918. Hokubei Mainichi Shinbunsha. comp. 1968/01. Hokubei language newspaper. Mainichi nenkan [Hokubei Mainichi year book]. San “Purcell fi led a writ of habeas corpus on behalf of Miss Francisco, California: Hokubei Mainichi Shinbunsha. Jan. 1. Endo, contending that the War Relocation Authority had no [Jap]* right to detain a loyal American citizen who was innocent • Summary: Th is book reads from front to back like a of all the various allegations the Army had used to justify typical Western book. It begins with an index of states, listed evacuation.” alphabetically, and within each state the cities where Japanese Purcel either lost in the lower courts or found them reside are listed alphabetically. By far the greatest number of reluctant to rule. “He fought the case up through the listings is for California. Appellate Court and into the United States Supreme Court, Th e last page in the book states that this book was: personally arguing the issues, personally defraying printing Printed by Dai Nippon Insatsu Kabushiki Gaisha, Tokyo, and other costs.” Japan. Production: Nihon Shuppan Boeki K.K. Published: Note: Th e full name of the Supreme Court case is “Ex 1968 Jan. 1. Address: 1727 Sutter St., San Francisco, parte Mitsuye Endo.” “Ex parte” means: “Done by, for, or on California 94115.

18 months”; 1 lb, 2 lb, 44 lb keg). Mugi miso (“Soybean puree. 919. Soybean Digest.1968. Kikkoman produces soy sauce in A lighter miso made with barley”; 1 lb, 2 lb, 44 lb keg). U.S. tieup. April. p. 52. Note 1. Th is is the earliest document seen (July 2011) that • Summary: “Kikkoman Shoyu Co. of Japan will shortly mentions Muso Shokuhin in connection with soyfoods. start bottling soy sauce as well as making ‘Teriyaki’ sauce Advest Co. 1972. Nov. “Private placement $500,400. in Oakland, California,” according to the Japan Economic Erewhon Inc.” On page 30 is a photocopy of the label for Journal. “Teriyaki sauce is a sauce for grilling or broiling “hacho miso (soybean paste–soybeans only).” Th e text reads: purposes processed from soy sauce.” Japan’s No. 1 maker “Hacho miso comes from one of the oldest manufacturers of soy sauce wishes to reduce export costs, such as freight of miso in Japan. Th e company was originally established in and insurance charges, by shift ing completely to local 1362 and has been continuously processing miso since that bottling and packing of its products. It will use the existing time. In olden times boats would come up the Yahagi River factories of Leslie Salt Co., Leslie Food Products Inc., and near Nagoya bringing the raw materials for miso including Orrell’s Food Products Inc. “Exports of soy sauce are on an the big stones which were placed on the kegs during aging. increase recently with the United States, Japan’s top customer, Th e water used in Hacho Miso is drawn from artesian wells boosting its purchases by fi ve times in the past decade. located along the same river. Th e fermentation storerooms Kikkoman currently supplies about 85%-90% of the total and the large cedar wood kegs used in producing Hacho exports of soy sauce. Miso are over one hundred years old. Th e miso during its “In 3 years, Kikkoman plans to raise its soy sauce and two year aging process is placed and situated so that it can Teriyaki sauce production in the U.S. to about 35 million freely interact with the four changes of season. Hacho Miso bottles a year.” is easily digested and absorbed because the proteins are in a Note: Th is is the earliest English-language document seen free state due to aging and fermentation. It can be used in the (Nov. 2006) that mentions a commercial teriyaki sauce. preparation of soups, sauces, and vegetable dishes, adding a rich and hearty fl avour to them. New weight: 32 oz. (2 lb). 920. Product Name: Mugi Miso, or Hacho Miso. Ingredients: Well water, soybeans, and sea salt. Distributed by Manufacturer’s Name: Erewhon Trading Co., Inc. Erewhon Trading Company, Inc.” (Importer). Made in Japan. Imported from Muso Shokuhin. Label. 1977, undated. 3.5 by 4.75 inches. Paper. Manufacturer’s Address: Newbury St., Boston, Olive green, greenish brown on white. Vine illustration Massachusetts. (hacho miso). “Erewhon Miso is produced by enzymatic Date of Introduction: 1968. August. fermentation and aging of soybeans a minimum of twenty- Ingredients: Hacho miso: Soybeans, water, sea salt. four months in wooden kegs. Its concentrated fl avor makes Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 16 oz. it an ideal seasoning for enriching the taste of soups, sauces, How Stored: Refrigerated preferably. vegetable dishes, noodles, casseroles, and fi sh. Erewhon Miso New Product–Documentation: Erewhon Trading Company is completely free of chemical preservatives. Store in a cool Inc. 1970. Jan. 1. Wholesale-retail catalogue. Soy bean place.” Note: In 1971 Erewhon was located at 342 Newbury products: Th e following types of miso were imported from Street, Boston. Phone: 262-3420. Japan: Hacho miso (“Soybean puree made from soybeans, Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. salt & water. No chemicals used in fermentation. Aged at least 236. In 1968 Erewhon started to import miso and shoyu from

Japan. “A wholesale and distribution company was started that year and soon it was trucking a line of fi ne Japanese imported red, barley, and Hatcho misos to a growing number of natural food stores.” By 1970 sesame miso and tekka [miso] were added to the Erewhon line. By 1976 brown rice (genmai) miso was added. Ad (7.5 by 13 inches, full color) in Natural Foods Ad in Soyfoods. 1982. Winter. p. 51. “Tofu Has Been our Merchandiser. 1989. Feb. p. 25. “Erewhon... Macrobiotic Business for 39 Years.” Shows: Hinode Yaki or Broiled Tofu foods you can recommend with confi dence.” Th ere are now (Grilled). Talk with Shoan Yamauchi. 1988. Oct. 23. Th is 4 varieties of miso under the Erewhon brand: Hatcho (note product was introduced at the time they moved into their new correct spelling), genmai, kome, and mugi. present plant at 526 Stanford Ave. in Los Angeles, about 1969. At about this time, Erewhon also sold Short Grain Brown Rice, Whole Wheat Flour, and Corn Meal. 922. Product Name: Hinode Nama-Agé. Manufacturer’s Name: Matsuda & Hinode Tofu Company. 921. Product Name: Hinode Broiled Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 526 Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, CA Manufacturer’s Name: Matsuda & Hinode Tofu Company. 90013. Manufacturer’s Address: 526 Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, CA Date of Introduction: 1969. February. 90013. Ingredients: Soybeans, water, soybean oil, sea salt. Date of Introduction: 1969. February. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 5 oz. Ingredients: Water, soy beans, 1/10 of 1% calcium sulphate, How Stored: Refrigerated. 1/10 of 1% soy oil and food grade lime. New Product–Documentation: Ad in Soyfoods. 1982. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 6 oz. Winter. p. 51. “Tofu Has Been our Business for 39 Years.” How Stored: Refrigerated. Hinode Nama Agé or Deep-Fried Tofu Cutlets. Talk with New Product–Documentation: Label. 1979. 5.25 by 4.25 Shoan Yamauchi. 1988. Oct. 23. Th is produce was introduced inches. Plastic fi lm. Yellow and red on clear plastic fi lm. Yaki- at the time they moved into their present plant at 526 dofu written in Japanese characters on both sides.

Stanford Ave. in Los Angeles, about 1969. Label. 1988. 3.5 P.O. Box 26, Wahiawa, Oahu, Hawaii 96876. Owner: Donald by 4.5 inches. Red, yellow, and white on clear plastic fi lm. Akiyama. Phone: 808-621-6949. p. 52 states that the company “Hinoichi Nama-Agé Tofu Cutlets.” Made by House Foods started making tofu in 1968. It was making 12,000 lb/week in & Yamauchi, Inc. Th is label was printed aft er the merger of April 1982, and 16,000 lb/week in Jan. 1984. Hinode Tofu Co. and House Foods in 1983. 926. Product Name: Natto. 923. Product Name: Erewhon Soy Sauce. Later renamed Manufacturer’s Name: Iwamoto Natto Factory. Tamari Soy Sauce. Manufacturer’s Address: 143-D Lower Paia, Paia, Maui, Manufacturer’s Name: Erewhon Trading Co., Inc. Hawaii 96779. (Importer). Made in Japan by Marushima Shoyu. Date of Introduction: 1969. Manufacturer’s Address: 342 Newbury St., Boston, MA New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of 02115. Phone: (617) 262-3420. Manufacturers. 1969. p. 17. “Fermented soybeans.” Date of Introduction: 1969. October. Ingredients: Water, wheat, soybeans, salt. 927. Product Name: Tofu, and Aburage. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 16 oz or 32 oz bottle, or 18 liter Manufacturer’s Name: Kapaa Poi Factory. keg. Manufacturer’s Address: R.R. 1, Box 366, Kapaa, Kauai, HI New Product–Documentation: Erewhon Trading Co. 96746. Phone: 808-822-5426. Inc., Wholesale Retail Catalogue. 1970. Jan. 1. “Soy Sauce Date of Introduction: 1969. (imported). Aged naturally in wooden kegs at least 18 How Stored: Refrigerated. months.” In 16 oz or 32 oz bottle, or 18 litre keg. New Product–Documentation: Not listed in any Hawaiian Ad in East West Journal. 1973. Jan. 15-30. p. 24 (rear City Directory prior to 1968. Hawaii Directory of cover). “Erewhon visits a soy sauce factory [Marushima Manufacturers. 1969. p. 17. Kapaa Poi Factory, Kapaa, Kauai, Shoyu].” Erewhon’s “Tamari soy sauce” [actually shoyu] is Hawaii. Th ey make poi, tofu, aburage, kulolo, and konnyaku. made by Marushima Shoyu, located on Shodoshima Island. It Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 313. is aged in cypress wood tanks for about 3 years. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops 924. Product Name: Aburage. and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 394. Owner: Unknown. Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Tofu Factory Inc. Soyfoods Center. 1980. Sept. Tofu shops and soy dairies Manufacturer’s Address: 1020 Auahi St., Honolulu, Oahu, HI in the West (2 pages, typeset). Gives the company’s name, 96814. address (Kapahi, Kapaa, Kauai), and phone number. Owner: Date of Introduction: 1969. Kenneth Lai. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of Letter from Kembo and Sophie Fujinaga. 1995. Jan. 1. Manufacturers. 1969. p. 16. Th ey make tofu and aburage. Kapaa Poi Factory is now located at 1181 Kainahola Rd., Kapaa, Kauai 96746. Phone: (808) 822-5426. 925. Product Name: Tofu. Talk with Craddock K. Yorkman of Kekaha, Hawaii. 1996. Manufacturer’s Name: Hawaii Tofu. May 6. Th e only company that presently makes tofu on the Manufacturer’s Address: 524-F Olive Ave., Wahiawa, Oahu, island of Kauai is Kapaa Poi Factory. HI 96786. Phone: 808-621-6941. Date of Introduction: 1969. 928. Product Name: Broil King Teriyaki Sauce. How Stored: Refrigerated. Manufacturer’s Name: King Shoyu Co. Ltd. New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. Manufacturer’s Address: 1215 Kona St. near Piikoi (P.O. Box 1968-69. Hawaii Tofu, 524 F Olive Ave., Wahiawa. Same in 976), Honolulu, Oahu, HI 96808. 1970. Not listed in any Honolulu City Directory for 1966 or Date of Introduction: 1969. before. Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1973. p. 10. Same Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Bottle. listing. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 313. How Stored: Shelf stable. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu New Product–Documentation: Ad in Hawaii City Directory. (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops 1968-69. p. 145. King Shoyu Co. Ltd. Manufacturers of and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 394. Owner: Mrs. Nemoro. the famous King Soy Sauce and Broil King Teriyaki Sauce. Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. Illustrations (line drawings) show both bottles and labels. 22. Owner: Mrs. Nemoro. Address: 1215 Kona near Piikoi, P.O. Box 976. Zip Code Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1983. June 96808. Not listed 1979. 20. Th e owner is now David Akiyama. Phone: 808-621-6949. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. Same address. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Shows Soyfoods Industry and Market. 1985. p. 5. Hawaii Tofu, a label. Th ey make amino acid soy sauce. Th e company is still

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 206 in business. Letter from Tadao Nihei. 1988. July 19. Th ey ran Hawaii. Phone: 808-621-5603. the business during the war, making chemical soy sauce, but Date of Introduction: 1969. closed in about 1978. Also made Barbecue Shoyu. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of Manufacturers. 1969. p. 18. Rural Food Products, 117 Mango 929. Product Name: Hinode Kinugoshi Tofu: (Soy Bean St., Wahiawa, Oahu, Hawaii 96786. Th ey make tofu, aburage, Curd Cake). and konnyaku. Manufacturer’s Name: Matsuda & Hinode Tofu Company. Manufacturer’s Address: 526 Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, CA 933. Product Name: Aburage. 90013. Manufacturer’s Name: Tanita (T.) Tofu Factory. Date of Introduction: 1969. Manufacturer’s Address: 189-A Ponahawai, Hilo, Island of Ingredients: Soy beans, water, soy bean oil, calcium sulfate, Hawaii. glucono, lactin, food grade lime. Date of Introduction: 1969. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 12 oz packed in water in molded New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of plastic tray with heat-sealed, peel-off plastic fi lm lid. Manufacturers. 1969. p. 19. T. Tanita Tofu Factory, 189-A How Stored: Refrigerated. Ponahawai St., Hilo, Island of Hawaii 96720. Tofu, aburage. New Product–Documentation: Label. 1978, undated. 5 by 3.75 inches. Plastic fi lm. Red and green on clear fi lm. In 934. Hokubei Mainichi Shinbunsha. comp. 1970/01. Hokubei small letters in parentheses “Soy Bean Curd Cake.” Note the Mainichi nenkan [Hokubei Mainichi year book]. San unusual ingredients: “lactin” and “food grade lime.” Leafl et. Francisco, California: Hokubei Mainichi Shinbunsha. Jan. 1. 1981. Hinode Top Silken Tofu. Natural high protein. 2 p. [Jap] Contains 8 recipes from Th e Book of Tofu by Shurtleff & • Summary: Th is book reads from front to back like a Aoyagi. Ad in Soyfoods. 1982. Winter. p. 51. “Tofu Has Been typical Western book. It begins with an index of states, listed our Business for 39 Years.” alphabetically, and within each state the cities where Japanese Pantry Supermarkets. 1983. “Double coupons!” (Ad). Los reside are listed alphabetically. By far the greatest number of Angeles Times. Feb. 24. p. SG3. Th e section titled “Oriental listings is for California. foods” states: “Hinode kinugoshi tofu 12 oz.–59¢.” Th e last page in the book states that this book was: Talk with Shoan Yamauchi. 1988. Oct. 23. Th is product Printed by Dai Nippon Insatsu Kabushiki Gaisha, Tokyo, was introduced at the time they moved into their present Japan. Production: Nihon Shuppan Boeki K.K. Printed: 1969 plant at 526 Stanford Ave. in Los Angeles, about 1969. Dec. 5. Published: 1970 Jan. 1. Address: 1727 Sutter St., San Francisco, California 94115. 930. Product Name: Aburage (Deep-Fried Tofu Pouches). Manufacturer’s Name: Matsumoto Tofu Shop. 935. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 2984-B Ewalu St., Lihue, Kauai, HI Manufacturer’s Name: Daimaru Tofu Co. 96766. Manufacturer’s Address: 517 Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, CA Date of Introduction: 1969. 90013. New Product–Documentation: Not listed in any Hawaiian Date of Introduction: 1970. City Directory prior to 1968. Hawaii Directory of New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan Manufacturers. 1969. p. 18. Matsumoto Tofu Shop, 2984-B (Year Book). 1970. Page 678. Directory entry, under Ewalu St., Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii 96766. Tofu and aburage. “Food Products Mfg.” In Japanese: Daimaru Tofu-ten. In English: Daimaru Tofu Co., 517 Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, 931. Product Name: Shoyu Peanuts. California. Phone: MA8-5705. Manufacturer’s Name: Moilili Mochi & Candies. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. Manufacturer’s Address: 2563 South King St., Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii 96814. 936. Product Name: Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1969. Manufacturer’s Name: Goto Tofu Shop. Renamed Goto Tofu New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of Co. by Dec. 1975. Manufacturers. 1969. p. 18. Th e company makes mochi, Manufacturer’s Address: 943 E Street, Fresno, CA 93706. manju, arare, shoyu, peanut [sic]. In the 1975 directory the Phone: 209-268-1717. product is fi rst listed as “Shoyu Peanuts.” Date of Introduction: 1970. How Stored: Refrigerated. 932. Product Name: Aburage (Deep-Fried Tofu Pouches). New Product–Documentation: Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan Manufacturer’s Name: Rural Food Products, Inc. Formerly (Year Book). 1970. Page 574. Directory entry. In Japanese: Haruo Honda Tofu. Gotô Tofu. In English: Goto Tofu Shop, 943 “E” St., Fresno, Manufacturer’s Address: 117 Mango St., Wahiawa, Oahu, Calif. Phone: 268-1717.

Fresno City Directory. 1975. First listing for Goto Bean Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 822. Factory (Nagaki Goto), prepared foods, rear 943 E Street. Directory entry, under “General Trading.” In Japanese: M.K. Phone: 268-1717. Home, rear 943 E Street. No listing for Star Sengyo Kamaboko narabini Tofu Seizô. In English: M.K. in 1975 or before. Fish & Kamaboko Tofu Co., 1800 E. Yesler Way, Seattle, Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 313. Washington. Phone: 322-1265. Goto Tofu Co., or Star Tofu Shop, 914 E Street, 93706. Tel. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. M.K. 268-1717. Tofu Co, 1800 Yesler Way, 98112. Tel. 622-1365. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 392. Goto Tofu Co. or Star and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 399. M.K. Tofu Co., 1800 Tofu Co., 943 E. St., Fresno, California 93706. Phone: 209- Yesler Way, Seattle, Washington 98112. Phone: 206-622-1365. 268-1717. Owner: Not listed. Owner: Unknown. Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. 937. Product Name: Island Soy Sauce. 22. Manufacturer’s Name: Honolulu Sake Brewery Co., Ltd. Manufacturer’s Address: Honolulu, Oahu, HI 96813. 939. Hosoda Bros. (Hosoda Kyodai Shokai). 1970. Importers Date of Introduction: 1970. & wholesalers (Ad). In: Hokubei Mainichi Shinbunsha, comp. Ingredients: Water, soy beans, salt, wheat, disodium 1970. Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan [Hokubei Mainichi Year 5-inosinate, caramel coloring, and sodium benzoate, a Book]. San Francisco, California. p. 32. [Eng; jap] preservative. • Summary: Ad (1/8 page). Th e top 1/3 of this ad is in Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 16 fl uid oz (1 pint), 50.7 fl uid oz English. In Japanese: Hosoda Kyôdai Shôkai. Th ey import (1 quart 1 pint 2.7 fl uid oz) or 101 fl uid oz (3 quarts 5 fl uid Yamasa Shoyu. oz). Note: Th is ad is confusing or misleading. Th ey say they New Product–Documentation: Directory of Honolulu and are seizô oroshi moto, meaning manufacturer and wholesaler, the Territory of Hawaii. 1930-31. p. 241. Th e company is but in English they say only that they are “Importers currently named Honolulu Ice Co. Ltd. Tomokuni Iwanaga & wholesalers.” Address: 1596 Post St., San Francisco, is president. Th ey are at 2153 Booth Rd. In the 1934-35 California. Phone: 921-6942. Directory (p. 211) the name changes to Honolulu Sake Brewery & Ice Co. Ltd. Daizo Sumida is president. Same 940. Kikkoman International Inc.; Kikkoman Shoyu Co., address. Th ey are never listed as a shoyu manufacturer in any Ltd. 1970. Sekai ni aiseru aji no shuyaku [World renowned index up through 1954. sauces (Ad)]. In: Hokubei Mainichi Shinbunsha, comp. 1970. Nihei. 1978. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. 73(7):542-49. Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan [Hokubei Mainichi Year Book]. “Hawaii ni okeru Nihon-shu, miso, shoyu no rekishi.” Shows San Francisco, California. p. 8. [Eng; jap] one label. Th is company has closed but their brand is being • Summary: Ad (full page). Th e bottom 1/8 of this ad, plus carried on by the Honolulu Sake Brewery and Ice Co. Ltd. one line near the top, are in English. Th e top line of the ad, in Label. Received Feb. 1988 from Honolulu Sake Brewery & Ice Japanese, means “Th e main character of taste, which is loved Co., Ltd. 4.5 x 3.5 inches. Red, black, yellow, pink, and white. by the world.” Just below that is the title in English. And to White, pink and red hibiscus fl owers on label. Letter from the right below that the “Kikkoman signature” in English. Takao Nihei. 1988. July 19. Th e product was launched in 1970 Near the top left in Japanese: Kikkoman products are made by Honolulu Sake Brewery Co. Ltd. Omit “& Ice” in company using the best selected ingredients and long experience. Th ey name. start with shoyu, and include teriyaki sauce, sukiyaki sauce, Menmi (noodle broth base), and Manjô Mirin (sweet saké for 938. Product Name: Tofu. cooking). Th ey are the masters of the food seasoning craft . Manufacturer’s Name: M.K. Fish & Kamaboko Tofu Co. Kikkoman is working hard in the kitchens of the world. Manufacturer’s Address: 1800 E. Yesler Way, Seattle, WA Photos show: (1) A large, metal 1-gallon can of 98112. Phone: 206-622-1265. “Kikkoman Shoyu” (written in English). (2) Bottle of Date of Introduction: 1970. Kikkoman Hawaiian Teriyaki Marinade and Sauce. (3) How Stored: Refrigerated. Bottle of Kikkoman Sukiyaki Sauce. (4) Bottle of Kikkoman New Product–Documentation: Seattle City Directory. Worcestershire Sauce. (5) Bottle of Kikkoman Memmi / 1948-49. M.K. Fish Co. (Kenoshi Murata), 511 Main St.; Menmi. (6) Smaller and slightly fl attened bottle of Kikkoman 1955 listing. M.K. Fish & Grocery Co. (Kensaku Murata), Manjô Mirin. 511 Main. 1960-1973 listings. M.K. Fish Market (Kensaku & In the lower left corner is the Kikkoman hexagonal Mrs. Kikuyo Murata), 1800 E. Yesler Way. Note: None of the logo. Above: “Since 1630.” Below (in Japanese): Kunaicho listings state if or when the company made tofu. goyôtatsu (Purveyors to the Imperial Household). Address:

San Francisco, Los Angeles, New York, Chicago, USA; Tokyo, “Kikkoman’s superior quality makes it ideal; for Japan. hamburger, chicken, steaks, chops, fi sh, stews, meatloaf, gravies, soups, salad dressings and party dips and, of 941. Kuraun Boeki Kabushiki-gaisha (Crown Imports Co., course, for all Oriental dishes. Use as an ingredient, a Inc.). 1970. Crown Imports Co., Inc: Importers–Exporters marinade, and as a baste. Winner of 30 international awards (Ad). In: Hokubei Mainichi Shinbunsha, comp. 1970. for distinguished fl avor and quality–world’s standard of Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan [Hokubei Mainichi Year Book]. excellence! Quality leadership since 1630.” A photo shows a San Francisco, California. p. 7. [Eng; jap] bottle of “Kikkoman naturally brewed soy sauce–All-purpose • Summary: Ad (half page). Th e top half of this ad is in seasoning.” English. Th is Japanese company imports many items from Note: Th is is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2009) in Japan, including Marukin Shoyu. Th eir main offi ce is in which Kikkoman uses the term “naturally brewed” (with or South San Francisco, but they also have an offi ce in San without hyphenation) in connection with their soy sauce. Francisco. Cable Address: “Crownimp” San Francisco. Th e term was coined in about 1943 in Hawaii. Address: Address: 1336 San Mateo Ave., South San Francisco, California. California 94080. Phone: 761-0266; 873-7600. 945. Product Name: Tofu. 942. Mutual Supply Company (Kyodo Shohi-gaisha). 1970. Manufacturer’s Name: Star Tofu Shop. General importer & exporter (Ad). In: Hokubei Mainichi Manufacturer’s Address: 943 E Street, Fresno, CA 93706. Shinbunsha, comp. 1970. Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan Phone: 209-268-1717. [Hokubei Mainichi Year Book]. San Francisco, California. p. Date of Introduction: 1970? 9. [Eng; jap] New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e • Summary: Ad (half page). Th e top ¼ of this ad is in English. Book of Tofu. p. 313. Goto Tofu Co., or Star Tofu Shop, 914 E Company name with diacritics is: Kyôdo Shôhi-gaisha. Th ey St., 93706. Tel. 268-1717. are selling many items including Mitsuba (Clover) brand Fresno City Directory. No listing for Star in 1975 or shoyu (made in Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii) and Kikkoman before. shoyu. Address: 1090 Sansome St., San Francisco, California Talk with Brad Kubota of Fresno Tofu Co. 1990. Nov. 94111. Phone: (415) 982-1894. 28. His company was formerly named Goto Tofu (run by Nagaki Goto), and before that it was named Star Tofu, run by 943. Market Share Trend by Brand. Soy + Teriyaki. Dollar Nagaki’s elder brother, David Goto. Brad thinks that David base.1970--. Serial/periodical. New York, NY: Statistical bought the company in about 1970, or maybe before. Before Analysis Marketing Inst. (SAMI). that it was named Hashimoto Tofu, run by a Mr. Hashimoto. • Summary: SAMI data indicates that Kikkoman’s share of Before that it was named Tokubo Tofu, run by Mr. Tokubo. soy sauce sales in U.S. supermarkets rose from about 26% in 1970 (3rd place) to about 44% in 1979 (1st place). Kikkoman 946. Product Name: Tofu. passed Chun King during 1971 to move into 2nd place Manufacturer’s Name: Stockton Tofu Co. among the big three, then passed La Choy during 1976 to Manufacturer’s Address: 229 E. Alpine Ave., Stockton, move into fi rst place. California. Phone: 415-343-6473. La Choy’s market share rose from about 36% in 1970 to Date of Introduction: 1971. 39% in 1975, then steadily decreased to 34% in 1979. Chun How Stored: Refrigerated. King’s market share dropped steadily from about 28% in 1970 New Product–Documentation: Stockton City Directory. to about 17.5% in 1979. 1972. First listing for Stockton Tofu Co. (Tomoe Kumamaru), fi sh & oriental foods, 229 E. Alpine Ave. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 944. Kikkoman. 1970? Quality results require quality 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. Stockton Tofu Co., 229 E. ingredients. Good cooks know there’s no substitute for Alpine St. Phone: 464-9341. 1976 ed. Address is now 1011 Kikkoman (Leafl et). San Francisco, California. Kikkoman. 1 Commercial St., San Carlos, California 94070. p. Single sided. 28 cm. Undated. [1 ref] Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu • Summary: Th is brown and green on tan leafl et gives a (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops 5-step comparison of “Naturally brewed Kikkoman” with and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 393. Stockton Tofu Co., 1011 “Other types of soy sauce.” “1. Brewed from select quality Commercial St., San Carlos, CA 94070. Phone: 415-343-6473. soybeans, wheat, salt, water–aged many months, vs. Made Mike Kumamaru. with chemically hydrolyzed protein, corn syrup, salt, water Soyfoods Center. 1980. Sept. Tofu shops and soy dairies and caramelized sugar–not aged. 2. Natural fl avor and color, in the West (2 pages, typeset). Gives the company’s name, vs. Synthetic fl avor and color. 3. Pleasantly aromatic, subtle address, and phone number. Owner: Mike Kumamaru. piquant taste, vs. Relatively acrid and harsh taste.”

947. Dimler, R.J. 1972. Oriental ceremonies at How Stored: Refrigerated. groundbreaking for a new rural industry. Notes from the New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Director of the Northern Division No. 1058. p. 2. Jan. 21. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. Loetterle. 1977. California Living. • Summary: Describes the groundbreaking ceremonies on April 17. p. 40. Tseng et al. 1977. Home Economics Research Jan. 19 for the new $12 million Kikkoman shoyu plant at Journal. Dec. p. 171-72. New Label. 1986. Soft (Kinugoshi) Walworth, Wisconsin. “Kikkoman sells 100 million gallons Tofu. Contains GDL (glucono delta-lactone). of shoyu annually, besides a line of dehydrated soups, miso,... Interview with George and Bill Mizono. 1989. Oct. 31. Th e shoyu fermentation takes about 3 months and Kikkoman Th is product was fi rst made at Boutwell St. in about 1972. expects to start their fi rst fermentations in October or November 1972 with the fi rst sales in 1973. Initial production 951. Product Name: NamaAge: Fried Soy Bean Cake. will amount to about 2,500,000 gallons annually which will Manufacturer’s Name: Azumaya Inc. use about 500,000 bushels total of wheat and soybeans per Manufacturer’s Address: 95 Boutwell St., San Francisco, CA year. Th e plant brings to fruition the results from PL-480 94124. Phone: 415-467-1955. research that NMN sponsored under the direction of Dr. Date of Introduction: 1972. C.W. Hesseltine (FL= Fermentation Lab), and that Kikkoman Ingredients: Soy beans, water, cottonseed oil or peanut oil, continued aft er the project itself terminated.” calcium sulfate. Dr. Hesseltine was among the honored guests. He found Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 6 oz (170 gm) in poly pouch. it cold standing in a corn fi eld for almost 2 hours. Note: How Stored: Refrigerated. NMN probably stands for Northern Marketing and Nutrition New Product–Documentation: Label. 1978, dated. 7 by 4 Division–according to Dr. Walter Wolf, who worked there for inches. Plastic pouch. Dark green, light green, black, and many years. Address: Director [NRRL, Peoria, Illinois]. white on clear. Azumaya logo. Little bean logo saying, “Hi, I’m Li’l Soy.” Includes recipe: Nama-Age With Beef. 948. Soybean Digest.1972. Kikkoman plans $8 million plant Label. 1986, dated. 7 by 3 inches. Blue, reddish brown, [in Wisconsin]. Jan. p. 17. beige, and white. Azumaya logo with 4 circles over the “Y.” • Summary: Th is new soy sauce plant, to be built by Little bean logo saying “Hi! I’m Li’l Protein.” “Cut into strips Kikkoman Shoyu Co. at Walworth, Wisconsin, “is believed and stir fry with vegetables for sweet and sour, stews and to be the largest single investment ever made by a Japanese casseroles, or cube and add to soups and salads.” Ingredients: concern in the U.S.” Th e plant will produce 2.6 million Water, soybeans, soy oil, calcium sulfate (1986). gallons of soy sauce annually. It will be constructed by the Interview with George and Bill Mizono. 1989. Oct. 31. Austin Co. of Cleveland, Ohio. Kikkoman began exporting Th is product was fi rst made at Boutwell St. in about 1971 or shoyu (to be sold in bottles) to the U.S. in 1949. It was 1972. transported in tank containers from Japan to California, Product with Label purchased at Safeway supermarket where it was bottled and packed for distribution. in Lafayette, California. 1997. Dec. 7. 7.5 by 4 inches. Gold, orange, black, and white. Product name: Nama-Age Fried 949. Food Engineering.1972. Japanese build sauce plant in Tofu. Below it is written: “Hors D’oeuvres, Sandwiches, Stir- U.S. 44(2):95. Feb. Fry, Salads. Azumaya logo with 4 circles over the “Y.” Th e • Summary: Subtitle: “Kikkoman Shoyu Co. will produce soy little bean logo is gone. Serving suggestions are unchanged. sauce in Wisconsin, using locally grown wheat and soy beans. Ingredients: Soybeans, water, soy oil, calcium sulfate. Text in Sauce will be made by applying modern technology to the lower right corner: “For free recipes, coupons or comments, traditional natural process.” An illustration shows an aerial Call 1-800-Eat-Tofu. Manufactured by Vitasoy (USA) Inc. view of the plant, which will be the largest Japanese plant to So. San Francisco. Net Wt. 8 oz (227 gm). Retails for $1.39. K be built in the USA. Th e initial $6 million plant will be built Parve ORC. by Austin Co., Chicago, and be ready for operation in 1973. A description of the modern process for making “shoyu, a 952. Dowd, James. 1973. Walworth County Japanese plant fl avorful soy sauce,” is given. A portion of the soy sauce will approaching grand June opening. Journal-Times (Th e) be blended with other ingredients to make teriyaki sauce. A (Racine, Wisconsin). March 28. p. 1E. powdered miso (soy bean paste) soup is under development. • Summary: Photos show: (1) Kikkoman’s administrative manager, William Hanchette, with T. Murai, Kikkoman’s 950. Product Name: Kinugoshi Soft Tofu. executive vice president and general manager of the Manufacturer’s Name: Azumaya Inc. Walworth facility. Th e grand opening is set for June 16-18. Manufacturer’s Address: 95 Boutwell St., San Francisco, CA (2) Th e hydraulic pressing equipment. (3) Th e front of the 94124. Phone: 415-467-1955. plant, from outside. “Kikkoman Foods, Inc. is nearing the Date of Introduction: 1972. completion date of its 146,000-square-foot, $6 million plant, Ingredients: Water, soybeans, calcium sulfate. which will process, bottle, and ship 3.5 million gallons of

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 210 soy sauce and teriyaki sauce annually. Th e Walworth plant, America where we are selling more than 60% of our total the fi rst built by Kikkoman outside the fi rm’s Japan home, export... Th e main consumers of Kikkoman soy sauce in the will be a $12 to $15 million investment when it reaches full United States before World War II were Japanese Americans... capacity in about four years.” In Japan each person consumes Our sales increased as the number of Japanese immigrants an average of 3.2 gallons of shoyu each year. “Kikkoman’s increased... Aft er the war, we changed sales targets. Instead administrative manager, William Hanchette, said ‘Kikkoman’s of limiting ourselves to the Japanese-American market we U.S. sales have been growing at the rate of 28% per year.’ started to aim for the general American. In order to penetrate Hanchette said the Walworth plant will be ready to ship the American market we decided to market small size bottles. soy sauce to United States, European, and Latin markets by Before the war we sold soy sauce only in large bottles, casks, late June or mid-July.” On 14 Dec. 1972 a ceremonial switch and cans... In 1957, we established an American subsidiary signalled the initial starting of the power plant and the raw for Kikkoman International Incorporated, with its head material conveying system. “’Making Kikkoman soy sauce offi ce located in San Francisco. Th e purpose of Kikkoman is basically a natural brewing process,’ Hanchette explained. International is to import Kikkoman products and distribute Unlike American made soy sauce that employs chemical them in the United States. In the 1950’s our fi rst eff orts reactions, the Japanese brand is brewed naturally for about were concentrated in large cities on the West coast, mainly 6 months.’” Th e process is then described. Kikkoman has 3 in San Francisco and Los Angeles. Th e Los Angeles branch sales offi ces and 13 regional warehouses already in operation offi ce was opened in 1958. In the early 1960’s we started to in the USA. Five years ago a bottling operation was set up approach large cities on the East coast, for example, New in Oakland, California. Soy Sauce was shipped by tanker York City. We opened a branch in New York in 1961... and from Japan, then bottled in Oakland for distribution in the one in Chicago in 1965... States. Th e Walworth County site was chosen in 1971 aft er “In order for us to eff ectively penetrate the American a thorough study of available locations. Presently there are market it was a must for us to have the services of good food 10 Americans employed at the plant and a total of 50 are brokers. Fortunately we have found very good brokers in expected to be employed by June. Once the bottling operation various parts of the United States. For example, Myers and gets under way the plant will employ approximately 100 Sumder in California are the outstanding food brokers in the Americans. nation... Th ree years ago Kikkoman bought about 55% of the “Hanchette said about 40 Japanese have been sent over stock in Japan Food Corporation (JFC), the largest Oriental to place the plant in full operation. He said eventually the wholesaler in the United States... Japanese employees will be phased out and replaced by “As to the advertising,... in 1956 when Eisenhower was American workers. Th e Japanese will return to Japan where elected President, Kikkoman bought election day T.V. time Kikkoman maintains 23 plants and employs 4,300 people for vote-count announcements in San Francisco all day long... worldwide.” As we came to spend more money for advertisement we have broadened our advertising strategy. Now we have some 953. Mogi, Yuzaburo. 1973. Kikkoman–American plant national and continuous campaigns... project–From planning to start up. Paper presented at the “About three years ago we built a test kitchen and Governor’s Conference on Business Development. 14 p. Held cooking center in San Francisco, adjacent to the head offi ce 16 May 1973 at American Baptist Assembly, Green Lake, of Kikkoman International. We now have home economists Wisconsin. there. We have been utilizing these facilities to develop new • Summary: With an introduction by William C. Kidd, recipes for soy sauce and to educate customers as to how to Secretary, Department of Business Development, Wisconsin. use soy sauce not only for Oriental food but also American Mr. Mogi earned a B.A. degree from Keio Univ. in Japan, and food... a Master’s of Business Administration (MBA) at Columbia “In December, 1970... we sent the fi rst investigation team University in New York City. to America. Th e task of this team was to gather data to enable “Kikkoman soy sauce was fi rst shipped to Hawaii in the us to compare the cost of having an American plant rather 1860’s... Kikkoman also had extensive operations in Asian than exporting the product from Japan. Th en it was to fi nd countries until 1945. We had production plants in China, the cost diff erence among diff erent possible locations for the Korea, Malaysia, and some other countries. Our exports plant, whether in the West coast, the Mid-West, or the East reached a peak before the war in 1939 and sales in the United coast. We asked Mr. Mark Pennington, a consultant in New States were about 50% of the total sales in foreign countries York, to act as a consultant for the project... We decided that at that time. Aft er the war we again started exporting in it should be in the Mid-West. Th e reasons why we made the 1950. However, we lost the market in China, and in addition, fi rst decision are as follows: 1. Sales of Kikkoman soy sauce, because of an import duty and restrictions, it became quite as I mentioned, have been increasing steadily and have diffi cult for us to export to other Asian countries... almost reached the stage of making it economically feasible “At the present time, our main overseas market is to build a plant. 2. We have to get out from a heavy freight

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 211 burden. We have been buying most of our main raw materials “Kikkoman is naturally brewed and age-mellowed to from the United States, mainly soy beans and wheat from the perfection. It’s made from protein-rich soybeans and wheat, Mid-West... Th ese freight rates have been increasing sharply fresh artesian water, and salt–plus a prized yeast culture over every year. Still more, almost every year we suff er from strikes 300 years in development. Th ere is no hydrolyzed protein, of dock workers. 3. Gradually the cost advantage of Japanese no corn syrup, no caramel, no artifi cial fl avor or color of any business over the American business has been disappearing. kind. Just pure natural ingredients. In the past,...labor costs in Japan were much lower than those “Try Kikkoman as a seasoning directly from the bottle on in the United States... We do not have cheap labor in Japan chicken, meats, fi sh. Use as a recipe ingredient, a marinade, a any more. 4. Th e yen was devalued. Th e yen devaluation was baste. Add a little to gravies, soups, salad dressings and party not the main factor in our decision... dips. It’s unique–an authentic original!” Recipes are given “Th e reasons why we made the decision to build the for Good day pot roast, Un-beef brown gravy, Chicken, and plant in the Mid-West are the following: 1. Th e present main Hamburgers. * Soy sauces vary greatly in taste and quality–do market for Kikkoman products is the West coast... However, not substitute. Kikkoman glorifi es fl avor! we can expect by looking at the various marketing indexing factors, that there is more market potential for our product in 955. Mogi, Keizaburo. 1973. ‘A memorable day.’ Speech given the Mid-West and the East coast. Having a plant in the Mid- June 16 by Keizaburo Mogi, President of Kikkoman Shoyu West means that we are able to ship the product from there Co., Ltd., and chairman of the board of Kikkoman Foods, both to the present main market and to the future potential Inc. Times (Th e) (Walworth, Fontana, and Williams Bay, market easily... 2. Our main raw materials are soy beans and Wisconsin). June 21. p. 2. Special 12-page tabloid supplement wheat, as I mentioned. Th e Mid-West is the main center on Kikkoman Foods Grand Opening. for growing these grains. By having the plant there, we can • Summary: Photos show: (1) Participants in the ribbon- expect to be able to buy the raw materials at lower costs. 3. In cutting ceremony: William McKonke, Keizaburo Mogi, the Mid-West there are many food companies. We can expect Governor Lucey, Japanese Ambassador to the U.S. Nabuhiko to sell our product to them for industrial use. Ushiba, and Saheiji Mogi. (2) Keizaburo Mogi presenting the “We chose the Austin Company, Des Plaines, Illinois, as “grand opening address,” with translator Yuzaburo Mogi at the general contractor... In September, 1971, the president his side. “As you know, the history of our company’s shoyu and other top people from Kikkoman, Tokyo, visited the brewing at Noda City in Japan spans nearly four centuries... I United States and compared six fi nal candidates for the plant consider today to be a truly memorable day... site. Th en we fi nally chose Walworth, Wisconsin. Th e reasons “It is my desire from today to contribute to society to the for the decision are as follows: 1. Th e labor climate there is best of our ability, as a good citizen of this community, of the excellent. 2. Th e local people are quite friendly. 3. Walworth state of Wisconsin, and of the American economy. is a convenient place for transportation. We can expect to “For 4 centuries, under the slogan, ‘A better product, at keep freight cost and warehousing costs to a minimum... lower price, in greater abundance,’ our company has tried 4. Th e state of Wisconsin was receptive to Kikkoman from its best to contribute to society through a more pleasurable the beginning. I fi rst visited this state in December, 1970, and more abundant eating experience, and further, by always as a member of the fi rst investigation team... 5. Th e state of working in harmony with the local society for our mutual Wisconsin is regarded as a state which produces the best prosperity. Th is social consciousness, I believe, has been the quality foods... 6. In Wisconsin we can enjoy beautiful nature. source and the driving force of our development in Japan. As Th e air is clean, the water is pure, and we have a lot of green I remarked at the start-up ceremony last year, in America also here... I intend to put this policy into practice with all the strength at “Th e total investment will be about 9 million dollars.” my command.” Address: Vice-President, Kikkoman Foods, Inc., Walworth, Wisconsin. 956. Mogi, Saheiji. 1973. A thank you ... and a promise. Statement by Saheiji Mogi, President of Kikkoman Foods 954. Kikkoman Food International Inc. 1973. Unique in Inc. Times (Th e) (Walworth, Fontana, and Williams Bay, all the world–Kikkoman Soy Sauce (Ad). New York Times Wisconsin). June 21. p. 2. Special 12-page tabloid supplement Magazine. June 3. p. 65. on Kikkoman Foods Grand Opening. • Summary: Th e New York Times Magazine is part of the • Summary: Th e decision to build this plant was made in Sunday New York Times and may be simply listed as such. March 1971. Th e construction was done very eff ectively by “One expects dishes using Kikkoman to excel–and they the Austin Company [Des Plaines, Illinois]. Th e president do. Kikkoman has enriched the world of good eating since will do his best to make this an ideal company in every way, 1630. No other seasoning can match its long record of which means: (1) Satisfy customers everywhere in their achievement. It is one of the oldest brands in existence–the enjoyment of fi ne eating and make continuing eff orts to winner of 30 major international awards. achieve ever-higher product quality. (2) “As a member of the

Wisconsin industrial community, we must contribute to the given of speeches by Governor Patrick Lucey, Ambassador best of our ability to the local society and to the larger society Ushiba, John Altpeter (chairman of the Town of Walworth in general, by developing our potential as a corporation board), John Maillard (chairman of the California Brokers to the fullest.” (3) “For the company employees we will Association), and William McKonke (Deputy Director of the provide stable employment, with the very best prospects for Department of Commerce in Washington, DC). Th e latter happiness and prosperity.” “said he wished the Japanese would build 500 more plants like the Kikkoman plant.” He drives a Toyota. Master of 957. Times (Th e) (Walworth, Fontana, and Williams Bay, Ceremonies Milton Neshek read a 14-line telegram (whose Wisconsin).1973. Kikkoman welcomes thousands at week- text is printed) of greetings and congratulations from U.S. end open house. June 21. p. 1. Special 12-page tabloid President Nixon. Other telegrams were read from the Prime supplement on Kikkoman Foods Grand Opening. Minister of Japan, Minister of Foreign Aff airs of Japan, and • Summary: Th e two-day celebration of the plant opening the Governor of Chiba prefecture, Japan. took place June 16 and 17, Saturday evening and Sunday. It “In the tradition of the Japanese plant opening customs, a included a tour of the plant, Japanese music (including taiko large yellow ball suspended from the ceiling of the plant was drumming) and dancing, and buff et tables of delicious food. opened, dropping colored balloons, streamers and confetti “Th e $9,000,000 facility on the Big Foot Prairie has been representing the release of all bad luck, evil and problems of completed and the production of Japanese soy sauce has the future. Th is ceremony was performed by Toyaji Murai, begun. Th e plant is on a 200-acre site northwest of the Village vice president and treasurer of Kikkoman Foods, Inc., of Walworth.” A description of the process for making this and Miss Linda Hodges, Princess Soya, representing the product is given; no mention is made of the fermentation American Soybean Assn.” time, or the use of solvent extracted soybean meal, and An illustration fi lling the top half of the page shows the preservatives. 72 epoxy resin-lined fermentation tanks each new plant and its grounds. Photos (p. 3) show the Shinto hold 17,000 gallons of moromi. Th e moromi is pressed blessing and the balloons falling. Page 4, titled “Th ousands twice to obtain the soy sauce. “Th e company produces more enjoy hospitality, entertainment,” shows a photo of the taiko than 100,000,000 gallons annually.” More than 1,500 invited drummers. Page 5 titled “Kikkoman is host at traditional guests witnessed the ribbon-cutting ceremony. Before the Japanese celebration dinner,” describes the three-tiered buff et plant was declared open, a Shinto priestess blessed the at the Lake Geneva Playboy Club; photos show the featured building. During the rite Keizaburo Mogi, Japan, chairman guests. of the board of Kikkoman Foods, Gov. Patrick J. Lucey, and Charles Shirk, president of the Austin Co. which erected 958. Times (Th e) (Walworth, Fontana, and Williams Bay, the building, placed holy leaves on the altar. Summaries are Wisconsin).1973. Development history of the Kikkoman

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 213 plant. June 21. p. 8. Special 12-page tabloid supplement on Hawaii. 1957–Kikkoman International Inc. (KII) established Kikkoman Foods Grand Opening. in San Francisco to “streamline import and distribution of • Summary: “Starting with the clearing of the site in Kikkoman Shoyu in America.” 1958–Los Angeles branch of December, 1971, the plant took approximately 15 months to KII established. 1960–New York branch established. 1965– complete from groundbreaking to dedication. Chicago branch established. 1968–Kikkoman begins bulk “Jan. 18, 1972, several weeks aft er the clearing of shipments of shoyu to the USA for bottling at Leslie Foods approximately 50 acres had taken place, Keizaburo Mogi, Co. Facilities in Oakland, California. 1972 Jan.–Ground- president of Kikkoman Shoyu, broke ground for the breaking ceremony for plant at Walworth, Wisconsin. 1972 production complex–a 146,000 sq. ft . plant with a capacity of March–Kikkoman Foods, Inc. is established. 1973 June–KFI 300 bottles of product per minute.” plant starts operating in Walworth, Wisconsin. Another description is given of the shoyu-making Color illustrations show (1) Th e Kikkoman plant from process; but again no mention is made of the fermentation ground level. (2) A ceramic bottle of shoyu exported to time, or the use of solvent extracted soybean meal, and Europe around 1670. Written in blue letters on a white preservatives. “Pasteurization is done at the lowest practical background: “Soy. Manufactured by Sollonyama, Nagasaki, temperature in 6,000-gallon tanks... Japan. (3) Scene of shoyu production in Noda 100 years ago. “Th e bottling line is designed to handle 300 bottles per Color photos show: (1) A Japanese worker handing an minute of the fi ve-ounce and 10-ounce sizes and 200 bottles American worker a soybean; both are smiling and wearing per minute of the 20-ounce and 24-ounce sizes... hardhats. (2) Two men with shovels breaking ground “Kikkoman anticipates production of 2,500,000 gallons of (Jan. 1972). (3) Chairman Keizaburo Mogi at the start-up soy sauce and 1,000 tons of soy cake for cattle feed per year. ceremony (Dec. 1972). (3) Th e outside of the KFI plant from Aft er several years, production will be doubled.” ground level at dawn. (4) Small circular portraits of the KFI offi cers: Chairman of the Board Keizaburo Mogi, President 959. Kikkoman Foods, Inc. 1973. Kikkoman Foods, Inc. Saheiji Mogi, Executive Vice President & General Manager (Brochure). Walworth, WI 53184. 12 p. Undated. 28 cm. Toyoji Murai, Vice President and Treasurer Yuzaburo Mogi, [Eng] Vice President and Secretary Harumi Kashima, Assistant • Summary: Th is color booklet, with a red, white, blue, Secretary Th omas G. Godfrey, Assistant Secretary Milton and green cover, was handed out at the grand opening of E. Neshek. (5) Two views of the inside of the plant plus Kikkoman’s shoyu plant at Walworth, Wisconsin, on 16-17 a fl ow chart, which includes “seed mold” and “automatic June 1973. mold culturing.” However the text above mentions “a yeast Contents: Message from Keizaburo Mogi (Chairman called Kikkoman Aspergillus Sojae” used to make koji. (6) of the Board) and Saheiji Mogi (President). Profi le of 12 Kikkoman soy sauce and teriyaki products and package Kikkoman Foods Inc. (including a brief history of operations sizes. Th e larger cans also have the word “shoyu” on the label. in America). Color photos of board members. Kikkoman (7) An American family at dinner with bottles of Kikkoman’s shoyu production method. Kikkoman Foods, Inc. products. soy sauce and Mann’s Wine on the table. Th e mother is Kikkoman glorifi es fl avor (contains 4 recipes: Chicken holding a large serving of roast beef on a platter, with recipes teriyaki, Lamb stew superb, Kikko-burgers, and Salad for chicken, lamb, and burgers overhead. Th e message: dressing). Th e history of shoyu. Kikkoman group: Kikkoman Kikkoman enhances the fl avor of meat. (8) Small aerial view Shoyu Co., Ltd., est. 1917 in Noda. Kikkoman International of the Kikkoman plant in Noda, Japan. (9) Outside of the KII Inc. (KII), Japan Food Corporation (JFC), Pacifi c Trading (Kikkoman International Inc.) offi ces in San Francisco. (10) Co., Ltd. (PT, est. 1928), Kikkoman Daitokai (Europe) GmbH Patrick J. Lucey, Governor of Wisconsin. Address: Walworth, (Japanese restaurant chain, est. 1972), Kikko Foods Corp. Wisconsin. (est. 1961, for Del Monte brand), Mann’s Wine Co., Ltd. (est. 1962 in Tokyo). Seishin Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. (est. 1961 960. Kikkoman Shoyu Co. Ltd. 1973. Th e Kikkoman way in Noda, enzymes), Tone Coca-Cola Bottling Co., Ltd. (est. of fi ne eating. Kikkoman Shoyu Co. Ltd., No. 11, 3-chome, 1962 in Ichikawa City, Japan). Message from Patrick J. Lucey, Koami-cho, Nihonbashi, Tokyo 103, Japan. 80 p. June 16. Governor of Wisconsin. Illust. No index. 27 cm. Title changed in 1977 with third Kikkoman Foods, Inc (KFI) has capital of $400,000 printing to Th e Kikkoman Cookbook. [Eng] (issued). Kikkoman’s fundamental corporate aim is “to • Summary: Contents: Preface by Keizaburo Mogi, President enrich the daily lives of people everywhere by adding to of Kikkoman Shoyu Co., Ltd., June 1973. Contents. Part the joys and benefi ts of good eating. In this way we feel 1: All about shoyu, by Shigeru Otsuka: 1. Shoyu and that we can best contribute to building a happier and more Japanese food: Japanese cuisine defeated?, the Europeans prosperous society.” Chronology of Kikkoman in America: come to Japan. 2. Japanese food and nature. 3. Shoyu 1868–Kikkoman Shoyu fi rst introduced to America when and nature. 4. Japanization of western food. 5. Th e basic immigrants from Japan brought kegs of shoyu with them to role of shoyu in Japanese cooking. 6. History of shoyu:

Fermentation and taste, commercial production, shoyu mechanized koji room. (2) Moromi aging in a large, round and the West. 7. Shoyu production process: Raw materials, modern vat. (3) Shoyu being pressed from pressing cloths by koji making, fermentation and brewing, pressing. 8. Shoyu modern hydraulic presses. Address: Tokyo, Japan. and components: Th e components of bouquet, fl avor components, the coloring of shoyu. 9. Shoyu and cooking, 961. Product Name: Soft Tofu (Pressed Silken Tofu with shoyu and health. 10. Conclusion. Part 2: Recipes with Calcium Sulfate), Yaki-dofu (Grilled Tofu), Tubu (Korean- brewed soy sauce: 11. Appetizers. 12. Salads and Salad Style Soymilk Curds), Atsuagé (Deep-fried Tofu Cutlets), Agé Dressing. 13. Beef. 14. Chicken and Egg. 15. Pork and Lamb. (Deep-fried Tofu Pouches). 16. Sea food. 17. Sauces. 18. Miscellaneous. 19. Japanese Manufacturer’s Name: Denver Tofu Co. cooking. Postscript. Manufacturer’s Address: 6150 N. Federal Blvd., Westminster Th e term “shoyu” is used throughout this book, except in (N. Denver), CO 80221. Phone: 808-538-1305. the recipes (see p. 7 for explanation). Date of Introduction: 1973-1975. In the section titled “Japanese cuisine defeated” (p. 8-9) New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff and Aoyagi. 1979. Otsuka states that there is no true “American cuisine,” not Tofu & Soymilk Production. p. 194. “Tofu cutlet pouches. even the hamburger and hotdog. Th ere are French, Chinese, Firm tofu containing no expanding agent is cut into slices Italian, and Scandinavian cuisines, but Japanese cuisine is midway in size between the slices for tofu pouches and for not well known. “You may say that this is because there were tofu cutlets, then fried in a conveyorized deep-fryer in two too few Japanese in the United States, but that theory doesn’t temperatures of oil causing then to expand somewhat, but hold water. By 1940 there were 1.5 times as many Japanese not as much as for tofu pouches. Th us they can be used either as Chinese in America. But Chinese restaurants are to be as soft cutlets or substantial pouches.” found in even small towns in all parts of the United States. Talk with Haru Yamamoto. 1988. Aug. 25. Gives product Moreover, they are patronized almost exclusively by non- names and approximate date of introduction. Chinese Americans. Japanese restaurants, on the other hand, are virtually non-existent except for the West Coast and New 962. Product Name: Natto. York. Further, until very recently customers of such Japanese Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Tofu Factory Inc. restaurants were almost all gastronomically homesick Manufacturer’s Address: 961 Akepo Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, Japanese, or occasional Americans invited there by Japanese Hawaii. friends.” Date of Introduction: 1973. “Certainly there is no mistaking the fact that Japanese New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of cuisine has utterly failed to spread to other parts of the Manufacturers. 1973. p. 10. Aloha Tofu Factory Inc., 1020 world.” Auahi St., Honolulu, Hawaii 96814. Th e company makes tofu, In the section titled “Th e Europeans come to Japan” aburage, natto, and konnyaku. (p. 10), Otsuka notes that Europeans fi rst came to Japan Oda. 1983. Hawaii Herald. Oct. 7. p. 5. “Tofu enjoys and tasted Japanese food in the mid-1500s. Th e fi rst [in increasing popularity.” Ad in Hawaii Herald. 1983. Oct. 7. p. about 1543] was a group of Portuguese, who landed at 20. “Make your favorite recipe even better with the best in Tanegashima, an island off the southern tip of Kyushu. In soy bean products. Tofu, natto, aburage, konnyaku, okara, 1549 a group of missionaries headed by the Spanish Jesuit yakidofu.” St. Francis Xavier arrived in Kyoto, at that time the capital of Japan, and began preaching Christianity. Th e Dutch traders 963. Product Name: Cathay Tofu: Fresh Soy Bean Cake who followed the Jesuits noticed shoyu and started to export (Chinese-Style Firm Tofu). it to Europe. “It was about 100 years later that Louis XIV Manufacturer’s Name: Cathay Co. [Azumaya]. of France began to prize shoyu as a secret ingredient in the Manufacturer’s Address: 95 Boutwell St., San Francisco, CA luxurious court fare of the time.” Note 1. Louis XIV reigned 94124. Phone: 415-467-1955. from 1643 to 1715. Note 2. When we asked Mr. Otsuka for Date of Introduction: 1973. his source concerning Louis XIV’s use of shoyu, he was Ingredients: Soy beans, water, natural calcium sulfate. unable to give any source. However his source may well have Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 14 oz packed in water in molded been a 1959 Japanese-language leafl et titled Mieki by Yataro plastic tray with heat-sealed, peel-off plastic fi lm lid. Obata. Obata admitted in 1983 that his statement was pure How Stored: Refrigerated. speculation. New Product–Documentation: Label. 1982, dated. 5.25 by Th is books contains numerous color photos of prepared 4.25 inches. Red and black on clear fi lm. “Chinese. 2 pieces recipes. On p. 19 is a superb old woodblock print by fresh soy bean cake. No preservatives added. Hi! I’m Li’l Hiroshige (lived 1797-1858) showing shoyu being made Soy. Rinse with cold water before using. Keep refrigerated. in 19th century Japan. On page 25 are three black-and- Perishable.” New Label. 1986. Firm (Chinese Style) Tofu. white photos showing: (1) Koji being made in a modern, Interview with George and Bill Mizono. 1989. Oct. 31.

Th is product was introduced in about 1973, during the Oriental races. period of meat shortages, to try to capture the Chinese 1886–Th e Japanese government lift s its ban on market. In March 1990 at Safeway Supermarket in Lafayette, emigration, allowing its citizens for the fi rst time to make California, a 14 oz water-pack retails for $0.89, the equivalent permanent moves to other countries. of $1.02/lb. 1911–U.S. Bureau of Immigration and Naturalization orders that declarations of intent to fi le for citizenship can 964. Product Name: Okara (Soy Bean Meal). only be received from whites and from people of African Manufacturer’s Name: Kanai Tofu Factory. descent, thus allowing courts to refuse naturalization to the Manufacturer’s Address: 515 Ward Ave., Honolulu, Oahu, HI Japanese. 96814. 1913–Alien Land Bill prevents Japanese aliens from Date of Introduction: 1973. owning land in California. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of 1924–Congress passes an Immigration Act stating that Manufacturers. 1973. p. 11. Note the description at the listing no alien ineligible for citizenship shall be admitted to the U.S. of okara as “Soy Bean Meal.” Th is stops all immigration from Japan. 1941 Dec. 7–Surprise attack on Pearl Harbor by the 965. Product Name: Tofu, and Aburage. Japanese. Manufacturer’s Name: Kreston’s Enterprise. 1942 Feb. 19–President Roosevelt signs Executive Order Manufacturer’s Address: 265-D Kekuanaoa St., Hilo, Island 9066, giving the War Department authority to defi ne military of Hawaii, HI 96720. Phone: 808-935-6973. areas in the western states and to exclude from them anyone Date of Introduction: 1973. who might threaten the war eff ort. How Stored: Refrigerated. 1942 March 25–Evacuees begin to arrive at Manzanar New Product–Documentation: Not listed in any Hawaiian Camp, in Owens Valley, California, the fi rst of the permanent City Directory prior to 1968. Hawaii Directory of camps to open. Manufacturers. 1973. p. 11. Kreston’s Enterprise, 265-D 1942 Aug. 12–Evacuation completed, 110,000 people of Kekuanaoa St., Hilo, Island of Hawaii, 96720. Th ey make tofu, Japanese ancestry removed from the west coast to ten inland aburage, konnyaku. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of camps. Tofu. p. 314. 1944 Dec. 18–U.S. Supreme Court rules [in Endo v. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu United States] that loyal citizens cannot be held in detention (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops camps against their will, the fi rst major step toward the and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 394. Owner: Unknown. closing of the camps. Note: Following this decision, the U.S. Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. government announced that all the camps would be closed 22. and the detainees released. Th e last of the camps was closed in 1946. 966. Houston, Jeanne Wakatsuki; Houston, James D. 1973. 1945 Aug. 14–Japan surrenders, ending World War II. Farewell to Manzanar. San Francisco, California: Th e San 1952 June–Congress passes Public Law 414, granting Francisco Book Company / Houghton Miffl in. xiii + 177 p. Japanese aliens the right to become naturalized U.S. citizens. No index. However, long before this, any child of Japanese parents born • Summary: A deeply moving, beautifully written, and in the United States or one of its territories (such as Hawaii) very personal book about a tragic episode in American automatically became a U.S. citizen at the moment of birth. history. “A wonderful, human, feeling book... touching, Terms used in this book: Issei: Th e fi rst generation. Th e funny, aff ectionate, sad, eager, and forgiving. And full of Issei were born in Japan. Most of them immigrated to the understanding”–Wallace Stegner, winner of the 1972 Pulitzer United States between 1890 and 1915. Prize for Fiction. Nisei: Th e second generation, the children of the Issei. Probably because this is a personal story, it does not American citizens by birth, almost all Nisei were born before mention that both tofu and soy sauce were made on a large the Second World War. scale at Manzanar. However soy is mentioned (p. 27): Woody Sansei: Th e third generation of Americans with Japanese said, “’I’ll fi nd out what they’re giving us for breakfast.’ ancestry, most of them born during or aft er the Second ‘Probably hotcakes with soy sauce,’ Kiyo said.” World War. Address: Santa Cruz, California. On pages xi-xii is the following interesting chronology of Japanese in America: 1869–Th e fi rst Japanese to settle 967. Ito, Kazuo. 1973. Issei: A history of Japanese immigrants on the U.S. mainland arrive at Gold Hill, near Sacramento, in North America. Translated by Shinichiro Nakamura and California. Jean S. Gerard. Seattle, Washington: Executive Committee for 1870–U.S. Congress grants naturalization rights to free Publication of Issei, c/o Japanese Community Service, 1414 whites and people of African descent, omitting mention of S. Weller St., Seattle, WA 98144. xxviii + 1016 p. Illust. Index

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 217 of personal names only. 24 cm. Translation of Hyakunen pickled bean curd (funyu), salted sea urchin, fermented soy Sakura. [100* ref. Eng] beans [natto], salted plums, or seaweed preserved by boiling • Summary: Th is massive book is basically a history of in soy sauce (nori no tsukudani),...” fi rst-generation Japanese immigrants to Pacifi c Northwest In 1907 we spent $5 to $6 per month for food, and it was (especially Washington, Oregon, and British Columbia), poor. For breakfast we ate miso soup and rice;... for lunch rice focusing on the great struggles and hardships they met, cooked together with aburage (fried bean curd)... I bought written from the viewpoint of individual Japanese who tell canned salmon and poured soy sauce and sugar on it for their stories (oft en in the fi rst person), and compiled by a dinner. For Saturday dinner we had sukiyaki. Japanese journalist. Th e book was fi rst published in Japanese. Page 410” Breakfast was tofu in miso soup with pickles Access to the wealth of information it contains is crippled and rice. Page 411: Deer meat sukiyaki. by the lack of a subject index. So if one were looking for In the part on “Agriculture,” we read that Japanese information about tofu, miso, or soyfoods, one would have immigrants to American sometimes enjoyed Japanese to read the entire book. Th e index of personal names is well soyfoods. In about 1910, in Fife, a farming community near done. Seattle, in about 1910, Gunji Fujimoto “had miso soup and At the very front of this book are very interesting maps pickles for breakfast” (p. 440). In about 1916, in Hood River of the old Japanese districts of the following cities: Seattle, (northern Oregon), Henry Nakamura wrote that Japanese Tacoma, and Spokane, Washington; Portland, Oregon; people could get foods from Japan, including “fried bean Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. Unfortunately, none of curd” (p. 499-500). Th ere they also enjoyed miso soup for the maps are dated. Th e name and location of each Japanese breakfast, cooked red beans [azuki] spread on bread for organization or business is shown clearly in English. In the lunch, and rice, pickles, and dried radish strips cooked with part on “Japanese exclusion,” the section titled “Th e smell soy sauce for dinner (p. 503). In the early 1920s in Oregon, of race” [very interesting] (p. 227-28) states: “Exclusionists breakfast typically consisted of rice, miso soup, and pickled especially point out that Japanese favorite foods and cucumbers (Shoemon Nakamura, p. 512). condiments, such as miso, soy sauce, radishes and pickles, are Th e part on “Mines” in 1917 (p. 557): “Dinner was intolerable [in smell]... Th e neighboring whites complained Japanese style with stews, beef and tofu cooked together with loudly that they just could not stand the smell of cooking soy soy, fi sh, miso soup, rice and so on.” sauce... A Japanese smells like miso, and whites in general Page 568: “Th e meals at Endo camp were notorious. exude faint waves of the odor of butter and cheese. Th e smell Breakfast was miso soup and pickles with rice. When the of their underarm perspiration is really strong.” population increased, the amount of soup was increased by In the part on “Railroads,” the section titled “Life of adding water, not miso. Th e contents of the soup were always Yoshiichi Tanaka” notes that he worked with a gang of wakame (seaweed,” all year long... “Mr. Endo laid in a huge young Japanese bachelors who were all trying to save money. stock of left -over seaweed and fried dried bean curd, and For breakfast they had miso soup, which was delicious, so miso, soy sauce and pickles”). everyone ate more, which caused food expenses to rise. “So Part 20, “On the Streets,” states that “Th e old Japanese we skimped on miso and merely added salt for fl avor.” For towns in Seattle, Tacoma, Portland, and Vancouver lunch they sometimes had “fi sh cooked in soy sauce, or a half (Canada) can hardly be traced today.” Th e author has tried cake of tofu (bean curd cheese), or radish, carrots and beef to reconstruct maps of these towns “in roughly the period boiled hard with soy,...” “In the Japanese restaurant in Seattle of the 1920s, but not in any specifi c year” (p. 779-80). In we could fi ll up on miso soup, rice and pickles for only 10¢...” Nov. 1908 Masanao Hanihara, Secretary of the Japanese Th e part on “Alaska” (p. 355) is mostly about work in Embassy, issued a report on his investigations of living the canneries: “We shipped Japanese foods such as rice, conditions of Japanese in the western USA (p. 791). He found soy sauce, miso, dried kelp [kombu] for soup base, dried the Japanese still lived “at the level of immigrant laborers;” sea slugs,... fu (a light cake made of wheat gluten), dried the conditions in their communities were “extremely low seaweed,...” Page 359 mentions soy sauce and miso soup with and chaotic.” “Th e Japanese in these areas hardly mix with salmon. white residents, while sometimes they approach or mix with Th e part on “Sawmills” states (p. 402): “Th e food was Chinese. Th ere are many ill eff ects from clique-ishness.” “Th e Japanese–fi rst class rice imported from Japan,... and koyadofu majority of Japanese workers lack knowledge of English, (a dish made from bean curd). For breakfast they served so whenever they make contracts they sign papers blindly” miso soup with vermicelli in it. Lunch was rice, and fi sh and (p. 795-96). Hanihara estimated the Japanese population vegetables boiled hard with soy sauce.” On Sundays they had of various states as follows: Washington 9,000 to 10,000, red bean soup with mochi (rice cake). Oregon 3,500 to 4,500, Wyoming 1,000 to 1,500, Idaho Under “Supplementary food” (p. 408-09): Th e meals were 1,000 to 1,500, Montana 1,000, and Alaska 1,000. Th e largest mostly Japanese. Breakfast: miso soup... Dinner: Sukiyaki. Japanese community in the region was in Seattle (about “Some people bought things from Seattle stores like bottles of 4,000 Japanese). “Shinzaburo Ban of Portland is almost the

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 218 top among successful Japanese on the Pacifi c Coast.” His New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. business, S. Ban Co., headquartered in Portland (where Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. “Hashizume Foods Products Corp.” he arrived in 1891), acts mainly as a contract agency for Wells. 1978. New York Times. May 3. p. 19-20. “In the early Japanese laborers–a sort of employment agency, “and his 1970s Hashizume Bean Cake Corporation came to life as a store supplies sake, miso, soy sauce and other such Japanese minor cottage industry, tucked away in the basement of a foods and small items to the laborers” (p. 789-93; see giant red brick factory in Long Island City.” Now the business portrait photo p. 792). A sidebar (p. 793, by Raisuke Tamura, is thriving. Th e contact person is Sumiko Yokoyama. Seattle) notes that “However long they lived in the United Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu States, Japanese had to have Japanese food... Around 1906 I (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops imported from Japan vegetables such as lotus root, Japanese and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 397. Hashizume Food radish [daikon], gobo (burdock), zenmai (fern), abura-age Products Corp., 43-10 23rd St., Long Island, NY 11101. [deep-fried tofu pouches], nigari (bittern, a tofu coagulant), Owner: Mrs. Kiyuu Yokoyama and Bob Barbarite; Offi ces at tsukuneimo, yamaimo, and so on, in hundred-pound baskets, 2-01 50th Ave., Long Island, NY 11101. Phone: 212-392-2860. and sold them to sawmills and railroad camps” (p. 793). Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1979. July. New Tofu Shops & Soy Th e 1 January 1916 edition the Hokubei Nenkan listed Dairies in the West. Mrs. Kiyuu Yokoyama & Bob Barbarite, all businesses operating in various Japanese towns. Th ese Hashizume Food Products, 2-01 50th St., LIC, NY 11101. included two “tofu-makers” in Seattle, Washington (p. 800), Factory at 43-10 23rd St. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. Soyfoods Center at least one tofu maker in Tacoma, Washington (p. 804. Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. 22. 1983. Soyfoods Tacoma had a Japanese population of 931 in 1915–721 males Industry & Market. Starting year given as 1969. FIND/SVP. and 210 females). Spokane didn’t have a Japanese town as 1981, May. “Th e tofu market: Overview of a high-potential in Seattle and Tacoma, but in 1915 it did have a Japanese industry.” p. 94. Th e company now makes about 300 lb/day of population of 536 (462 males and 74 females). tofu. It is sold in 25 lb bulk containers. Th e map of old-town Portland, Oregon, probably from about 1935, shows 90 Japanese businesses located between 969. Hughes Markets. 1974. Stick with the best blue-chip 1st Ave. and 7th Ave. (running north-south) and between W. stamps (Ad). Los Angeles Times. March 14. p. G30. Burnside and N.W. Glisan (running east-west). Among these • Summary: Th e section titled “Foods of the Orient” includes: are two tofu manufacturing companies. “Ota Tofu Mfg.” is Yamasa soy sauce, reg. & shinmi 1 gallon can $2.79. located on 5th Ave. between Everett and Flanders. [Note: Th e Coconut juice, Marga Rita 7¼ oz. can, 4 for $1. actual address was 86½ 5th N]. “Fukei Tofu Mfg.” is located is Soy beans, JFC daizu 1 lb. pkg., 3 for $1. on N.W. Davis between 3rd Ave. and 4th Ave. Won ton skins, in our produce dept., Nanka Seimin 12 oz Contents: Th e book is divided into 21 parts, with each pkg. 35¢. part containing several chapters (the number is shown in parentheses): 1. Sailing (6). 2. Secret passage and ship- 970. Product Name: Kikkoman Soy Sauce, and Teriyaki jumping (5). 3. Japanese exclusion (15). 4. Japanese women Sauce. (2). 5. Railroads (5). 6. Alaska (4). 7. Sawmills (2). 8. Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman Foods Inc. Subsidiary of Agriculture (7). 9. Hotels (2). 10. Restaurants (2). 11. Mines Kikkoman Shoyu Co. Ltd. (2). 12. Oysters (2). 13 Japanese language schools (2). 14. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box H, Walworth, WI 53184. Studying English (3). 15. Pro-Japanese (8). 16. Furuya Date of Introduction: 1974. March. Company (4). 17. Lese majesty aff airs (2). 18. Gambling Ingredients: Water, wheat, soybeans, salt, sodium benzoate: (3). 19. Girls (2). 20. On the streets (9). 21. In Memorium Less than 1/10 of 1% as a preservative. [Memoriam–to the many who died]. (2). Appendixes: (1) Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10 fl uid oz (296 ml). Partial list of Japan-U.S. and Japan-Canada sister cities. (2) How Stored: Shelf stable. Japanese consulates. (3) Chronological table: Japan and New Product–Documentation: Soybean Digest Blue Book. America (side by side), 1868-Sept. 1972. Bibliography (p. 1974. p. 124; 1978. Address is now P.O. Box 69, Walworth, 967-72, mostly Japanese-language books). Epilogues: To Wisconsin 53184. Soya Bluebook. 1980. p. 54. Main offi ce is English and to Japanese editions. Index of personal names (p. now “Kikkoman International Inc., Subsidiary of Kikkoman 988-1016). Address: Tokyo and Seattle, Washington. Shoyu Co., Ltd., 50 California St., P.O. Box 784, Suite 3600, San Francisco, CA 94101. Label. 1983. 3.25 by 3.75 inch oval. 968. Product Name: Tofu. Paper. Red, blue, black, white and yellow. Back label. 2.5 Manufacturer’s Name: Hashizume Bean Cake Corporation. by 3.75 inches. Paper. “All-purpose seasoning. Since 1630. Manufacturer’s Address: 30-16, 38th Ave., Long Island City, Good Housekeeping seal. Back label gives recipe for “Turkey Queens, NY 11101. Phone: 212-937-9150. Polynesian.” Contains a color photo. Soya Bluebook. 1987. p. Date of Introduction: 1973? 92. Kikkoman Foods, Inc., Hwy 14 & Six Corners Rd., P.O. How Stored: Refrigerated. Box 69, Walworth, WI 53184. Sales offi ces: Los Angeles and

without preservatives or additives of any kind.” Labels. 1977. 4.5 by 3.5 inches. Paper. New design, with glossy gold, green, or red background. Reprinted in Soyfoods Marketing. Lafayette, CA: Soyfoods Center. Th ese were Westbrae’s fi rst soyfoods imported from Japan, from Mr. Kazama and Mitoku. Westbrae Natural Wholesale Food Catalog. 1980. Spring. Red miso (kome miso) aged 2 years, brown rice miso (genmai miso) aged 1 year, barley miso (mugi miso) aged 2 years, Hatcho miso aged 2 years, soybean miso aged 1 year, natto miso. Each type comes in 1, 5, or 22 lb sizes. Red miso recommended retail price is $1.36 per 1 lb bag. Westbrae now also sells Cold Mountain Miso (Red, Light Yellow, and Mellow White varieties). Letter from Gordon Bennett. 1987. Oct. Gives year of introduction as 1974. Currently 8 varieties.

973. Product Name: Teriyaki Sauce, and Sweet-Sour Sauce Mix. Manufacturer’s Name: Eastasian Chef Inc. Manufacturer’s Address: 2295 North King St., Honolulu, Hawaii 96819. Date of Introduction: 1975. San Francisco, California; Atlanta, Georgia; Chicago, Illinois; New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of New York, NY. Manufacturers. 1975. p. 10. Note: Th is company is located on the same street as Hawaii’s early soy sauce manufacturer, 971. Product Name: Johsen Shoyu (Natural Soy Sauce). Yamakami Shoyu Jozo-sho (founded 1905, renamed Manufacturer’s Name: Westbrae Natural Foods (Importer). Hawaiian Soy Co. Ltd. by 1909). Made in Japan by Sendai Miso-Shoyu. Manufacturer’s Address: 1224 10th St., Berkeley, CA 94710. 974. Product Name: Instant Japanese Teriyaki Sauce. Date of Introduction: 1974. Manufacturer’s Name: Noh & Co., Inc. New Product–Documentation: Interview with Bob Gerner. Manufacturer’s Address: 2025 South Beretania, Honolulu, 1987. Aug. 20. He says imports started in 1975. Westbrae Hawaii 96814. Natural Wholesale Food Catalog. 1980. Spring. Th e three Date of Introduction: 1975. imported products are now called “1. Johsen Shoyu-Tamari– New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of Naturally brewed. 2. Johsen Shoyu-Tamari–Naturally brewed Manufacturers. 1973. p. 11. shoyu. 3. Traditional (True) Tamari–Wheat free.” Container sizes are 4.75 gallons (1&3), 32 oz (2), 16 oz (3), 12.7 oz. (2), 975. Product Name: Nomura Tofu. and 5 oz. (2&3). Letter from Gordon Bennett. 1987. Oct. He Manufacturer’s Name: Nomura Tofu Co. says the introduction date was 1974. Manufacturer’s Address: 2219 N. Clark St., Chicago, IL 60614. Phone: 312-935-9766. 972. Product Name: Westbrae Natural Miso [2 Year Barley Date of Introduction: 1975. Miso, 2 Year Red Miso, Hatcho Miso (Aged 2 Years), or How Stored: Refrigerated. Soybean Miso (1-Year Waka Hatcho)]. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Manufacturer’s Name: Westbrae Natural Foods (Importer). Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). Made in Japan. “Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 395. Manufacturer’s Address: 1224 10th St., Berkeley, CA 94710. Nomura Tofu Co., 3255 N. Holstead, Chicago, Illinois 60614. Date of Introduction: 1974. Phone: 312-525-3823. Owner: Mr. Nomura. Ingredients: Barley Miso: Whole soybeans, barley, water, salt. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1979. July. New Tofu Shops & Soy Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1 lb poly bag. Dairies in the West. Ken Nomura. How Stored: Shelf stable. Chicago Tribune. 1979. “Chicago’s tortilla baker, tofu New Product–Documentation: Labels. 1974, undated. 3.5 maker, and more.” Sept. 27. p. W-B3, S_A3, N_B3. For tofu, by 5 inches. Black plus 1 color on tan. “Naturally fermented visit Nomura Company, 2119 N. Clark St., Chicago, Illinois. and aged in large wooden kegs. Packed on order and shipped “Th e creamy white, smooth curd made from soybeans

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 220 is prepared daily by the family that runs this 5-year-old New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e business.” Book of Tofu. p. 314. Soyfoods Center. 1980. Sept. Tofu shops and soy dairies in the West (2 pages, typeset). Address: 2119 N. Clark St., 981. Product Name: Tokyo Food brand Tofu: Regular Soy Chicago, 60614. Note the confusion between Nomura Tofu Bean Curd. Momen. Co. and Chicago Tofu Co. Owner: Ken & Seiichi Nomura. Manufacturer’s Name: Tokyo Food Processing Corp. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Soyfoods Industry & Market. Manufacturer’s Address: 12-14 30th Ave., Long Island City, Gives starting year as 1975. Soya Bluebook. 1983. p. 78. NY 11102. Address: 2904 W. Fullerton Ave., Chicago, Illinois 60616. Date of Introduction: 1975? William Woo, President. Ingredients: Soy beans, water, 1/10 of 1% soy bean oil, 1/10 of 1% calcium sulphate, 1/10 of 1% glucono lactone and food 976. Product Name: Aburage (Deep-Fried Tofu Pouches). grade lime. Manufacturer’s Name: Teruya Tofu Factory. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 16 oz. Manufacturer’s Address: 1830 Mill St., Wailuku, Maui 96793. How Stored: Refrigerated. Phone: 808-244-5313. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Date of Introduction: 1975. Book of Tofu. p. 314. Mr. Toshinori Shimazaki. How Stored: Refrigerated. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Manufacturers. 1975. p. 11. and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 397. Tokyo Food Processing Corp., c/o Japan Food Corp., 40 Varick Ave., New York, NY 977. Product Name: Tofu. 11237. Phone: 212-456-8805. Owner: Mr. Shirata and Mr. Manufacturer’s Name: Fresno Foods. Terry Terahira. Manufacturer’s Address: 5167 Norwood, Riverside, CA Label. 1979, undated. 5 by 4 inches. Plastic fi lm. Red 92505. and light blue on clear fi lm. Address is now Brooklyn, NY Date of Introduction: 1975? 11237. Soya Bluebook. 1983. p. 78. Address: 40 Varick Ave., New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Brooklyn, NY 11237. Book of Tofu. p. 314. Owner: George Okumura. Note: Th e last Riverside City Directory (at Sutro Library) is 1951. 982. Product Name: Tokyo Food brand Tofu: Silky Soy Bean Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu Curd. Kinugoshi. (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops Manufacturer’s Name: Tokyo Food Processing Corp. and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 393. Owner: George Manufacturer’s Address: 12-14 30th Ave., Long Island City, Okumura. NY 11102. Date of Introduction: 1975? 978. Product Name: Tofu. Ingredients: Soy beans, water, 1/10 of 1% soy bean oil, 1/10 Manufacturer’s Name: Japan Foods Corporation. of 1% calcium sulphate, 1/10 of 1% glucono lactone and food Manufacturer’s Address: 11-31 31st Ave., Long Island City, grade lime. NY 11106. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 16 oz. Date of Introduction: 1975? How Stored: Refrigerated. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e Book of Tofu. p. 314. Mr. Keiji Yukawa. Book of Tofu. p. 314. Mr. Toshinori Shimazaki. Label. 1979, undated. 5 by 4. Plastic fi lm. Red and dark blue on clear fi lm. 979. Product Name: Tofu. Address is now Brooklyn, New York 11237. Manufacturer’s Name: Norikane Tofu Shop. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 315, Walnut Grove, CA 983. Times (Walworth, Wisconsin).1976. Kikkoman 95690. announce expansion program. Aug. Date of Introduction: 1975? • Summary: Th e addition of 24 new fermentation tanks will New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. Th e increase Kikkoman’s capacity from the present 2.5 million Book of Tofu. p. 314. gallons/year [approximately 10,000 kiloliters/year] of soy and teriyaki sauces to approximately 3.3 million. Th e plant 980. Product Name: Tofu. is currently operating at 90% of capacity, and employs 65 Manufacturer’s Name: Ohmi Tofu Co. persons. Production in the expansion will start in about 1 Manufacturer’s Address: 38-68 10th St., Long Island City, year. New York. Date of Introduction: 1975? 984. Product Name: Island Spring Tofu.

Manufacturer’s Name: Island Spring, Inc. How Stored: Refrigerated preferably. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 747, Vashon, WA 98070. New Product–Documentation: Ad in East West Journal. Phone: 206-622-6448. 1977. “Erewhon: Our traditional foods are the foods of the Date of Introduction: 1976. November. future.” “Recently a brown rice (genmai) miso has been How Stored: Refrigerated. added to the Erewhon line of imported foods. Based on the New Product–Documentation: Letter/Order from Sylvia traditional techniques and standards, this new variety was Nogaki, Island Spring, Route 1, Box 624, Vashon, Washington two and a half years in development before Mr. Ko Haga, 98070. 1976. Sept. 9. She orders two copies of Th e Book of brewmaster of Sendai [Miso Shoyu K.K.] produced what he Tofu, Vol. II (later re-titled Tofu & Soymilk Production). considered a successful brown rice koji, or starter.” Sendai Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu “produced a huller which merely scratches the bran along the (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops ridges of each grain; even though only 1% of the grain is lost and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 399. Phone: 206-567-4205. in the process, this is suffi cient to permit spores to enter the Owner: Luke Lukoskie. inner starches. You will fi nd genmai miso much sweeter than Soyfoods Center. 1980. Sept. Tofu shops and soy dairies the kome [white rice] variety, due to the higher ratio of rice in the West (2 pages, typeset). Gives the company’s name, to soybeans in this special product. Sendai uses a regionally address, and phone number. Owner: Luke Lukoskie. FIND/ grown rice, called Sasanishiki, which is highly regarded in SVP. 1981, May. “Th e tofu market: Overview of a high- Japan, and the soybeans used are the ‘Prize’ variety grown potential industry.” p. 71. Th e company now makes about organically in Minnesota by farmer Ed Ricke. Genmai miso 10,000 lb/week of tofu, fi ve fl avors of soyfreeze (soymilk ice is more expensive than the other varieties Erewhon off ers. cream), soyloaf, tempeh, soymilk, and spicy Korean tofu. Besides being the fi rst miso made with organic soybeans,” it Form fi lled out by Luke Lukoskie for William Shurtleff . also undergoes an 18-month fermentation. 1981. Jan. Island Spring, founded by Luke Lukoskie and Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. Sylvia Nogaki, began making tofu in Nov. 1976. Th e fi rst shop 236. In 1968 Erewhon started to import miso and shoyu from was approximately 225 square feet in size. Th e company spent Japan. “A wholesale and distribution company was started $10,000 to get into business. Products made during the fi rst that year and soon it was trucking a line of fi ne Japanese year in business: Tofu, Delicious Steamed Tofu. Production imported red, barley, and Hatcho misos to a growing number increased as follows: 3,000 lb/month aft er one year. 5,000 lb/ of natural food stores.” By 1970 sesame miso and tekka month aft er two years. 10,000 lb/month aft er three years. miso were added to the Erewhon line. By 1976 brown rice Luke believes that Island Spring was the fi rst company in (genmai) miso was added. the USA to make “Korean style prepared Delicious Steamed Ad (7.5 by 13 inches, full color) in Natural Foods Tofu.” Merchandiser. 1989. Feb. p. 25. Th ere are now 4 varieties of Update: 1997 Oct. 16. Island Spring, Inc. is now located miso under the Erewhon brand: Hatcho (note new correct at 18846 103rd St., S.W., P.O. Box 747, Vashon, Washington spelling), genmai, kome, and mugi. Note that all still use the 98070. Phone: 206-463-9848. Contact: W.M. Luke Lukoskie, esoteric Japanese names. Plastic bag packages are colorful CEO. Th ey still make tofu and tofu products. Th is is the and attractive. On each is the prominent endorsement: second oldest existing Caucasian tofu manufacturer in the “Recommended by Michio Kushi. Macrobiotic quality.” United States. 987. Product Name: Kikkoman “Green Label” Soy Sauce. 985. Product Name: Extra Hard Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman Foods, Inc. Manufacturer’s Name: Denver Tofu Co. Manufacturer’s Address: Walworth, Wisconsin; Japan. Manufacturer’s Address: 6150 N. Federal Blvd., Westminster Date of Introduction: 1976. (N. Denver), CO 80221. Phone: 808-538-1305. New Product–Documentation: Leafl et. 8½ by 11 inches. Date of Introduction: 1976. Reprinted in Soyfoods Marketing. Lafayette, CA: Soyfoods New Product–Documentation: Talk with Haru Yamamoto. Center. “Sold only in Qualifi ed Health Food Stores. 100% 1988. Aug. 25. Th e product was launched in about 1975-76. Pure Kikkoman “Green Label” Soy Sauce. Salt Reduced by 50% [from 16% to 8%] as Compared to All Other Soy and 986. Product Name: Brown Rice (Genmai) Miso. Tamari Sauces.” Manufacturer’s Name: Erewhon (Importer). Made in Japan by Sendai Miso Shoyu Co. 988. Product Name: Ganmotoki (Fried Soybean Cake). Manufacturer’s Address: 33 Farnsworth St., Boston, MA Manufacturer’s Name: Matsuda & Hinode Tofu Mfg. 02210. Company. Date of Introduction: 1976. Manufacturer’s Address: 526 Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, CA Ingredients: Brown rice, soybeans, water, sea salt. 90013. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 16 oz. Date of Introduction: 1976.

Ingredients: Soy bean, soy bean oil, water, carrots, seaweed, their present semi-automatic shop in 1977. Owners: Ray yam fl our. Nagai & Gary Sato. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1 7/8 oz plastic pouch. FIND/SVP. 1981, May. “Th e tofu market: Overview of How Stored: Refrigerated. a high-potential industry.” p. 64. Th e company now makes New Product–Documentation: Label. 1979. 4.5 by 7 inches. about 1,800 lb/day of tofu. It is sold in small tubs and in 25 lb Plastic fi lm. Red yellow and blue on clear plastic. On 1982 bulk containers. letterhead for Matsuda-Hinode Tofu Mfg. Co. “Ganmotoki.” Product with Label purchased. 1988. Hinoichi Tofu Fritter 991. Chicago Shimpo, Inc. 1976? Chicago Japanese American (Ganmodoki). 3.5 by 5 inches. Red, white, and black on clear directory. Chicago, Illinois: Chicago Shimpo, Inc. 28 cm. fi lm. Th is label was printed aft er the merger of Hinode Tofu [Eng]* Co. and House Foods in 1983. Ingredients: Soybeans, water, Address: Chicago, Illinois. soybean oil, carrots, seaweed, fi sh powder (tuna, seaweed, mushrooms), salt. Weight: 1 7/8 oz (70.8 gm) in a plastic 992. Product Name: Miyako brand Edamame: Frozen Boiled pouch. Retails for $0.93 (10/88, Los Angeles). Soybeans in Pod. Manufacturer’s Name: Mutual Trading Co., Inc. Imported 989. Product Name: Miyako Oriental Foods, Inc. Div. of from Taiwan Yamajirushi Miso Co. in Japan. Yamajirushi (Shinshu type) Manufacturer’s Address: 431 Crocker St., Los Angeles, CA Miso, Kanemasa Miso, Yamaizumi Miso, Aka Miso, and Koji 90013. Phone: (213) 626-9458. Miso. Date of Introduction: 1976? Manufacturer’s Name: Miyako Oriental Foods, Inc. Div. of Ingredients: Soybeans. Yamajirushi Miso Co. in Japan. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1 lb plastic (vinyl) bag. Manufacturer’s Address: 404 Towne Ave., Los Angeles, CA How Stored: Frozen. 90013. New Product–Documentation: Talk with and letter (fax) Date of Introduction: 1976. from Atsuko Kanai at Mutual Trading Co. (MTC). 2001. June New Product–Documentation: Price List. 1976. Sept. 1; 11. In about 1975 or 1976 Mutual Trading Co. increased the Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 238, size of its bag of edamame to 16 oz from 8 oz, introduced 240. By 1983 Miyako was the largest miso producer in the “Italian-color” packaging (red, green, and white), and started United States, with 544 tonnes a year. to sell the new bag in both retail outlets and to restaurants. Th at brand and packaging had recognition in the freezer 990. Product Name: Tofu: Soybean Cake. aisle. She believes that this was the fi rst edamame sold retail Manufacturer’s Name: Traditional Tofu Inc. in America, and the fi rst frozen edamame sold retail. Manufacturer’s Address: 6510 San Pablo Ave., Oakland, CA During 1977 MTC’s records show that the company sold 94608. Phone: 415-653-0990. 180 cases of this Edamame. On 25 March 1977 MTC began Date of Introduction: 1976. importing from Taiwan as well as from Japan. Individual bags Ingredients: Soybeans, water, calcium sulfate. from Japan weighed 16 oz. and those from Taiwan weighed Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 16 oz or 22 oz packed in water in 10 oz. In 1978 MTC imported 100 cases (48 x 10 oz), from molded plastic tray with heat-sealed, peel-off plastic fi lm lid. now on all from Taiwan, in 1979 2,400 cases (the last 2,000 How Stored: Refrigerated. cases were 20 x 16 oz bags), and in 1980 some 2,130 cases. New Product–Documentation: Interview with Ray Nagai. Atsuko has found a copy of a Miyako-brand retail package 1978. Sept. He and his business partner Gary Sato bought in the MTC fi les. Th e oldest package design she has on fi le, it $67,000 of Takai equipment. Work starts at 1:00 A.M. dates from about 1993-94. Fax of front of package: Below the Th ey make 16 oz. and 22 oz. cakes. Th e entire process is product name is written “edamame” in Japanese characters fully automated. Th ey learned to make tofu from a long- (hiragana). Below that are two bold horizontal bars, then established tofu maker in Oakland. (near the very bottom of the front panel) the phrase: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. Th e Book of Tofu “Natural protein from fresh soybeans.” Back of package: Th e (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops “Nutrition Facts” panel shows that the product dates from no and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 392. Owner: Ray Nagai. earlier than 1993. Distributed by: “MTC. Mutual Trading Co., Label. 1979, undated. 4.5 by 5.5 inches. Black and white Inc., Los Angeles, California 90013. Lyndhurst, New Jersey on clear fi lm. “No preservatives added. Keep refrigerated. 07071. Th e Cherry Co., Ltd., Honolulu, Hawaii 96818. North Perishable. Change water daily for greater freshness.” American Food Dist. Co., W. Sacramento, CA 95691. Product Leviton. 1981. Soyfoods. Winter. p. 45. “Ray Nagai and Gary of Taiwan. Keep frozen.” Note: Th e companies in New Jersey Sato both left jobs in the medical fi eld to open their own and Hawaii are branches of MTC; the one in Sacramento is ‘crazy’ handmade, garage-style tofu shop in 1976. Th eir top an affi liate. production was 420 pounds in 16 hours.” Th ey organized In July 1995 MTC began to import edamame grown in

China under the Miyako brand. records show that their fi rst catalog, which is green, was printed by Dai Nippon Printing Co. in August 1977. Address: 993. Takai, Wataru. 1977. Re: Larry Needleman. Letter to Ishikawa-ken, Japan. Phone: (0762) 48-1355. William Shurtleff at New-Age Foods Study Center, Aug. 20. 1 p. Typed, with signature on letterhead. [Jap] 995. Product Name: Morinaga brand Tofu. Soybean Curd • Summary: Th is letter is written on Takai’s new English- (Aseptically Packaged in Tetra Brik). language letterhead, designed by William Shurtleff and Akiko Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Milk Industry Co., Ltd. Aoyagi. Th e logo shows a lever on top of a bean moving Manufacturer’s Address: Shiba 5-33-1, Minato-ku, Tokyo 108 the world. Takai says: “I think it is very nice that Larry Japan. Needleman has the plan to do advertising for our equipment Date of Introduction: 1977. in America.” He has made the fi rst Takai price list and will Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10.5 oz Tetra Brik Aseptic carton. mail some to Shurtleff . Address: No. 307, Inari, Nonoichi- How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. machi, Ishikawa-gun, Ishikawa-ken 921, Japan. Phone: 0762- Nutrition: Per 5.25 oz: Calories 80, protein 7 gm, 48-1355. carbohydrate 4 gm, fat (45% of calories) 4 gm, sodium 40 mg. New Product–Documentation: Label on a poster. 1977, 994. Takai Tofu & Soymilk Equipment Company. 1977. Takai undated. Tetra Brik carton. Black, red, blue and green on catalog of small and medium-sized equipment. 307 Inari, white. “Aseptically packaged. Kinugoshi tofu.” In the upper Nonoichi-machi, Ishikawa-ken 921, Japan. 6 p. 30 cm. left corner is a descending angel in a circle. Recipes on back • Summary: Th is is Takai’s fi rst English-language catalog, of poster for Chilled Tofu, Caulifl ower Salad with Mashed conceived of and developed for Takai by William Shurtleff . Tofu, Tofu Fruit Salad, and Mabo-Tofu. Poster (in Japanese Th e banner heading across the top of the fi rst page is white and English) states: “Morinaga aseptic tofu. New tofu letters on a green background. Th e body of the catalog is sterilized and aseptically packed. Buy a lot. It keeps fresh for black letters on white glossy paper. Photos (printed in black 3 months. No preservatives and no synthetic bactericides on a light green screen) show the company’s many pieces of contained. It’s perfectly safe and you can eat it everyday [sic, equipment and systems for manufacturing tofu and soymilk. every day]. Silk-strained tofu is typical soybean curd.” Th e logo, in the upper right corner, shows a lever on top of a Talk with S. Ikegami. 1981. Jan. 14. Th is product was bean moving the world. Th e catalog is divided into 2 sections: developed in 1976, mainly for the American market, but fi rst Basic Equipment and Whole Systems. sold in 1977. Mr. Ikegami was head of Morinaga’s U.S. import Th e text on page 1 reads: “Takai, Japan’s largest and best company, located in San Jose, California, with Beechnut. known manufacturer of equipment for making tofu (bean curd) and soymilk, was founded in 1917 and now has about 996. Miyako Oriental Foods Inc. 1977. Miso (Leafl et). Los 60 percent of the total Japanese market production. Unlike Angeles, California. 6 panels. Undated. other companies, we produce a full line of equipment ranging • Summary: Contains 9 recipes and illustrations of from inexpensive tools suited for traditional small-scale Yamajirushi, Yamaizumi, and Kanemasa miso packages and production to Japan’s largest and most modern machinery brands. Printed with brown ink on beige paper. Address: 404 capable of producing over 200,000 cakes of tofu daily. In this Towne Ave., Los Angeles, California 90013. Phone: Offi ce: latter area, we have about 90% of the total Japanese market. (213) 626-9458. Factory: (213) 488-1678. Our equipment is designed for the preparation of all the seven basic types of Japanese tofu as well as soymilk on the 997. Kikkoman Foods, Inc. 1978. Re: Invitation to celebrate scale of your choice to meet your budget. fi ve years of operations (Folded card). Walworth, Wisconsin. “Over the past several decades we have had a great 4 panels. deal of experience exporting our equipment to Japanese • Summary: On the cover of this printed, folded invitation and Chinese run shops and factories in America, Europe, card (each panel is 4½ by 6 inches) is written “Kikkoman and Southeast Asia. Now with the growing interest in soy Foods, Inc.” On the inside is written: “Kikkoman Foods, Inc. products in the West, we have worked closely together with requests the pleasure of your company on June 16, 1978, to William Shurtleff , author of Th e Book of Tofu, to develop celebrate fi ve years of operations at Walworth, Wisconsin. our fi rst English-language catalog. Export routes are well “Tour of plant at Six Corners Road, 5:00 P.M. established that make it possible for you to order directly “Cocktails, dinner and entertainment in the Martinique from us, the manufacturer, to get your equipment at the Room, Th e Abbey, Fontana, from 6:30 P.M. lowest possible prices and with minimum delay. To give you “Please reply on enclosed card.” Address: P.O. Box 69, the widest possible choice of Japan’s best equipment, we are Walworth, Wisconsin 53184. also including in our catalog a number of items widely used in Japan, produced by other well-known makers.” 998. Miyako Oriental Foods, Inc. 1978. Cold Mountain Firm Letter (fax) from Wataru Takai. 1996. Aug. 2. Takai’s Granular Rice Koji recipes (Leafl et). Los Angeles, California.

2 p. Front and back. 28 cm. • Summary: Printed with brown ink on both sides of a yellow 1002. Mutual Trading Co., Inc. 1978. Price book: Miyako sheet of paper, this leafl et contains recipes for homemade brand. Fancy Oriental Japanese foods–Importer & red miso, sweet white miso, and amazake, all excerpted with Distributor. Los Angeles, California. 60 p. Sept. Index. 22 cm. permission from Th e Book of Miso by Shurtleff and Aoyagi. [Eng] One copy of the leafl et was packed with each tub of fi rm • Summary: Includes: Miso (p. 3-4). Soy sauce and other koji sold by Miyako. A copy was also printed in Soycraft sauces (p. 4-5). Dried seaweed (p. 32-33). Vegetable newsletter (No. 3, May 1978, p. 6). A number of America’s (edamame, natto {Miyako brand}, inari age, konbu natto, p. early manufacturers of commercial amazake learned how to 37). Salted black bean (Chinese, p. 60). Address: 431 Crocker make it from this leafl et. St., Los Angeles, California 90013. Phone: 213-626-9458. Note: Th is is the earliest document seen (April 2009) concerning Miyako Oriental Foods. Address: 404 Towne 1003. Minard, L. [L.M.]. 1978. Yes, we have no paternalism. Ave., Los Angeles, California 90013. Phone: (213) 488-1678 Forbes 122:112. Oct. 16. Factory. • Summary: In 1974 Kikkoman Shoyu, in business since 1661 and now having $800 million a year sales, announced that it 999. Takai Tofu & Soymilk Equipment Company. 1978. Takai would build a soya sauce brewery in Walworth, Wisconsin. catalog of small and medium-sized equipment. 307 Inari, “But Walworth’s townfolk and farmers refused to rezone Nonoichi-machi, Ishikawa-ken 921, Japan. 6 p. 30 cm. a 200-acre Kikkoman plot for industrial use... Th e county • Summary: Th is catalog, printed with dark brown ink on planners intervened and gave Kikkoman the go-ahead on its glossy white paper, was conceived of and developed for Takai $10 million, 2.4 million-gallons-a-year plant. by William Shurtleff . 42 photos in small, vertical rectangular “Th e plant has been a huge success... Kikkoman’s U.S. frames show many individual pieces of equipment, and 5 sales have doubled in the last fi ve years. Th e fi rm’s market photos show Takai’s fi ve systems for manufacturing tofu and share is now 46%, having surpassed that of its main soymilk. Th e catalog is divided into fi ve sections: (1) Front competition, Beatrice Food’s La Choy brand, a year ago... page and introduction; (2) Basic equipment; (3) Whole “With only $20 million in sales and 70-odd workers, systems; (4) Publications and information; (5) Ingredients. Kikkoman-Walworth is too small to import much of the For more information, contact Wataru Takai. Japanese management style.” Letter (fax) from Wataru Takai. 1996. Aug. 2. Takai’s A large photo shows Dr. Danji Fukushima. records show that their brown catalog of small-scale equipment was printed in July 1978. Address: Ishikawa-ken, 1004. Mori, Shigeru. 1978. Re: Cold Mountain Dry Koji. Japan. Phone: (0762) 48-1355-59. Letter to Lorenz A. Schaller, Natural Order Co., P.O. Box 4, Angelus Oaks, CA 92305, Oct. 24–in reply to inquiry. 1 p. 1000. Hokuriku Chunichi Shinbun.1978. Amerika no tôfu Typed, with signature on letterhead. [Eng] sangyô. Wakai hakujin no gyôsha fueru. Takai-shi ni genjô • Summary: Suggests that Mr. Schaller order Cold Mountain kiku [Th e tofu industry in America. Th e number of young Dry Koji from Erewhon Natural Foods. Note: Th is koji is Caucasian tofu makers has increased. We talk with Mr. Takai made by Miyako Oriental Foods, a subsidiary of Mutual about the current situation]. Sept. 14. [Jap] Trading Co. Address: Mutual Trading Co., Inc., 431 Crocker • Summary: A photo shows Larry Needleman, William St., Los Angeles, California 90013. Phone: 213-626-9458. Shurtleff , and Wataru Takai seated around a table in a room high in a skyscraper in New York City. 1005. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Food. 1001. Lekachman, Robert. 1978. Selling our own backyard: Manufacturer’s Address: 226 S.W. 21st Terr., Ft. Lauderdale, Review of the book American for Sale, by Kenneth C. Crowe FL 33312. Phone: 305-949-8351. (Doubleday. 213 pp.). Saturday Review. Sept. 16. p. 44-46. [1 Date of Introduction: 1978. December. ref] How Stored: Refrigerated. • Summary: A number of towns in several U.S. states have New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, competed vigorously to attract assembly plants to be built by Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). Volkswagen, Honda, and Datsun in the USA. Congressman “Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 394. Henry Reuss of Wisconsin has nothing but good things to say Owner: Unknown. about Kikkoman’s teriyaki and soy sauce plant in his state at Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. Walworth. Today, he says, the company is a great success. It 22. has built a new $9 million plant and created 50 new jobs. Th is helps America’s balance of payments. Japanese families are 1006. Product Name: Tofu. popular in the area and a delight to the local school system. Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Mea’ai.

Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 453, Kealakekua, HI How Stored: Refrigerated. 96750. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Date of Introduction: 1978. December. Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). How Stored: Refrigerated. “Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 397. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Owner: Unknown. Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 394. 1011. Product Name: Tofu. Owner: David Gantz. Manufacturer’s Name: Japanese Tofu Shop (name unknown). Manufacturer’s Address: Salt Lake City, Utah. 1007. Product Name: Mrs. Cheng’s Tofu. Date of Introduction: 1978. December. Manufacturer’s Name: Cheng’s (Mrs.) Soybean Products Inc. How Stored: Refrigerated. Manufacturer’s Address: 1829 E. Palolo Ave., Honolulu, New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Oahu, HI 96816. Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). Date of Introduction: 1978. December. “Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 398. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Owner: Unknown. Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). “Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 394. 1012. Product Name: Tofu. Owner: Unknown. Manufacturer’s Name: Japanese Tofu Shop (name unknown). Soyfoods Center. 1980. Sept. Tofu shops and soy dairies Manufacturer’s Address: Spokane, Washington. in the West (2 pages, typeset). Gives the company’s name Date of Introduction: 1978. December. (Mrs. Cheng’s China Bean Co.), address, and phone number. How Stored: Refrigerated. Owner: Unknown. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Soya Bluebook. 1983. p. 77. Talk with (call from) William Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). Harris, M.D., of the Vegetarian Society of Hawaii. 1993. “Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 399. June 21. He recommends Mrs. Cheng’s tofu because it is Owner: Unknown. coagulated with calcium chloride–despite the fact that “it comes in one of those wet plastic bags that leaks all over your 1013. Product Name: Tofu. groceries.” Th e company is a “mom and pop factory.” Manufacturer’s Name: Kaneshiro Tofu Shop. Manufacturer’s Address: 94-1162 Nalii, Waipahu, Oahu, HI 1008. Product Name: Tofu. 96797. Phone: 808-677-4380. Manufacturer’s Name: Japanese Tofu Shop (name unknown). Date of Introduction: 1978. December. Manufacturer’s Address: Santa Maria, California. How Stored: Refrigerated. Date of Introduction: 1978. December. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, How Stored: Refrigerated. Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, “Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 395. Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). Owner: John Kaneshiro. “Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 393. Owner: Unknown. Note: In 1941 Fujimoto Fish, Tofu Market 1014. Product Name: Cold Mountain Firm Granular Rice was in Santa Maria at 616 W. Main St. Koji. Manufacturer’s Name: Miyako Oriental Foods, Inc. 1009. Product Name: Tofu. Manufacturer’s Address: 404 Towne Ave., Los Angeles, CA Manufacturer’s Name: Japanese Tofu Shop (name unknown). 90013. Manufacturer’s Address: Paterson, New Jersey. Date of Introduction: 1978. December. Date of Introduction: 1978. December. New Product–Documentation: Label. 1978. Shurtleff & How Stored: Refrigerated. Aoyagi. In 1978 Mr. Noritoshi Kanai of Mutual Trading New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Co. / Miyako Oriental Foods asked William Shurtleff and Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). Akiko Aoyagi of Soyfoods Center to develop for him a “Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 396. trademark and package designs for him miso and koji. Th ey Owner: Unknown. recommended “Cold Mountain” as a brand name and also developed brochures and recipes explaining how to use the 1010. Product Name: Tofu. koji to make miso and amazake. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd Manufacturer’s Name: Japanese Tofu Shop (name unknown). ed. p. 238. Manufacturer’s Address: Buff alo, New York. Economic World. 1987. June. p. 46. Th is article says that Date of Introduction: 1978. December. Miyako makes Amazake Drink in Almond, Chocolate, and

Strawberry fl avors. Bill Schiering reports that they do not; but Tofu: Soybean Curd (Aseptically Packaged in Tetra Brik). they do supply several amazake manufacturers with koji. Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Milk Industry Co. Ltd. Manufacturer’s Address: Shiba 5-33-1, Minato-ku, Tokyo 108 1015. Product Name: Tofu. Japan. Manufacturer’s Name: Tamashiro Tofu Shop. Date of Introduction: 1978. Manufacturer’s Address: 326 Alahee Dr., Wailuku, Maui, HI Ingredients: Water, soybeans, glucono delta-lactone, 96793. Phone: 808-244-5215. monoglycerides, salt, calcium chloride. Date of Introduction: 1978. December. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10.5 oz (297 gm). Tetra Brik How Stored: Refrigerated. Aseptic carton. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). Nutrition: Per 100 gm: Protein 4.5 gm, fat 2.6 gm, “Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 395. carbohydrate 2.8 gm, ash 0.6 gm, water 89.5 gm, calories 52.6. Owner: Mr. Tokusaburo Tamashiro. New Product–Documentation: Label. 1978. 2.5 by 4.25 Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1981. Jan. inches; 1.75 by 4.25 front-to-back. A Tetra Brik Carton. Dark 22. Owner: Mr. Tokusaburo Tamashiro. blue, light blue, brown, and yellow on white. Illustration on bottom half of front panel of a white cake of tofu on a yellow 1016. Product Name: Tofu. plate. Label design and artwork by Akiko Aoyagi of Soyfoods Manufacturer’s Name: Tokyo Foods. Center. “No preservatives. Keep in a cool place. Stays fresh Manufacturer’s Address: 289 N. Amphlett, San Mateo, CA 6 months without refrigeration. No preservatives.” Recipe 94402. Phone: 415-343-4313. for Creamy Tofu Dressing or Dip on one panel; U.S. Patent Date of Introduction: 1978. December. 4,000,326; Leafl et. 1983. “Morinaga Ever-Fresh Silken Angel How Stored: Refrigerated. Tofu. Soybean Curd.” 8½ by 11 inches. Back to back, color. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Four recipes on back for Chilled Tofu, Caulifl ower Salad with Dec. Th e Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). Mashed Tofu, Tofu Fruit Salad, and Mabo-Tofu. Leafl et. 1983. “Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West.” p. 393. “Th e Supermarket Profi t Maker.” Back to back. Owner: Mr. Horinouchi. When Mr. Wataru Takai came to the Label sent by Anthony Marrese. 1991. Oct. 7. Th e product USA in July and August 1978 he was present when the tofu now retails for DM 3.54. Purchased at a new Japanese food equipment at this company was installed. store that just opened in Bremen. Use by Dec. 1991.

1017. Product Name: Yakitofu, Okara, Ganmodoki 1020. Product Name: Kikkoman Japanese Style Steak Sauce, [Ganmodoki]. Sweet & Sour Sauce. Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Tofu Factory Inc. Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman Foods. Manufacturer’s Address: 961 Akepo Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, Manufacturer’s Address: California. Hawaii 96817. Date of Introduction: 1979. January. Date of Introduction: 1978. Ingredients: Incl. soy sauce. New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Steak: 12 oz. bottle retails for Manufacturers. 1977-78. p. 10. Aloha Tofu Factory Inc., 961 $0.79. Sweet & Sour: 9½ oz bottle retails for $0.69. Akepo Lane, Honolulu, Hawaii 96817. Th e company now How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. makes tofu, aburage, natto, konnyaku, yakitofu, okara, pupu New Product–Documentation: Food Product Development. age, ganmodoki. Oda. 1983. Hawaii Herald. Oct. 7. p. 5. 1979. “Oriental sauces thrive on ethnic food boom.” July. p. “Tofu enjoys increasing popularity.” Ad in Hawaii Herald. 58. A photo shows the two products. It is not clear whether 1983. Oct. 7. “Make your favorite recipe even better with the the soy sauce used in the two products is made by Kikkoman best in soy bean products. Tofu, natto, aburage, konnyaku, in Japan or in Walworth, Wisconsin. okara, yakidofu.” 961 Akepo Lane. Phone 845-2669. 1021. Product Name: Soken Tamari Soy Sauce [Regular, or 1018. Product Name: Hinode Soymilk. Gentle]. Manufacturer’s Name: Hinode Tofu Company. Manufacturer’s Name: Soken Trading, Inc. (Importer). Made Manufacturer’s Address: 526 Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, CA in Japan. 90013. Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 1705, Sausalito, CA 94965. Date of Introduction: 1978. Date of Introduction: 1979. January. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1984. Ingredients: Soybeans, whole wheat, sea salt, water. Soymilk Industry & Market. p. 32. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Glass bottles. How Stored: Shelf stable. 1019. Product Name: Morinaga brand Ever-Fresh Silken New Product–Documentation: Ad in Whole Foods. 1979.

Jan. p. 24. “Soken tamari soy sauces.” Gentle tamari is 11% run this tofu shop. Yoshi is a native of Japan. lower in sea salt. Ad in Whole Foods. 1980. March. “Soken Talk with Rebecca Uchida. 1990. May 14. Th ey have been tamari natural soy sauce.” making tofu and soymilk since 1979. Spot in NASFT Showcase (New York, NY). Dec. New Label for “Soydrink” sent by MU Tofu Shop. 1998. July packaging for both sizes (150 ml and 500 ml) of Gentle 2. Th ey still make this soymilk. 2¼ by 4¼ inches. Orange Tamari Soy Sauce. Ad in Natural Foods Merchandiser. 1988. on white. “16 fl . oz. Keep refrigerated. Ingredients: Organic Sept. p. 82. Th ey now have three types of soy sauce: Natural, soybeans and water. 1735 Greenleaf, Chicago, Illinois 60626.” wheat free, and gentle. “Tamari” is written at the bottom of On the label are the Japanese characters for soymilk. A note all three. Product with Label purchased at Open Sesame in says they have been making this soymilk since 1984. Talk Lafayette, California. 1991. Feb. 16. “Soken Gentle Tamari. with Terri Sangrash, offi ce manager at Mu Tofu. 1998. July 13. Low Sodium Wheat Free Soy Sauce.” 5 oz (148 ml; Retails for Yoshi still makes the tofu, but his wife, Rebecca, now teaches 2.45) or 10 oz bottles. Red, blue, black, white, brown, yellow, kindergarten. Terri started working at MU in 1983, and they green, and white. Woodblock print of a Japanese girl with fi rst really started selling soymilk with a label to various folded arms in a kimono in front of traditional houses. “It’s customers in 1984; they may have sold it to one customer as naturally good. Since 1789. Ingredients: Whole soybeans, well early as 1979 without a label. Th ey had a labeling problem, so water, sea salt. Contains 81 mg of sodium per ½ teaspoon they had to change the name to Soydrink. serving (2.5 gm). Distributed by Sokensha Co. Ltd., P.O. Box 883033, San Francisco, CA 94188. Product of Japan. 1024. Takai. 1979. Takai Tofu & Soymilk Equipment Co. Refrigerate aft er opening. Soken Gentle Tamari is produced (Ad). Soycraft (Greenfi eld, Massachusetts) 1(1):39. Summer. by the same time honored methods developed in Japan over • Summary: Th is full-page ad: (1) Gives an introduction to centuries. It is brewed by the Kimbue Co., makers of fi ne soy the company. (2) Explains that they have worked closely sauce for over 200 years.” with William Shurtleff , author of Th e Book of Tofu to develop their fi rst English-language catalog. (3) States that 1022. Takai Tofu & Soymilk Equipment Company. 1979. they are working with Bean Machines, Inc., a California- Takai catalog of large-scale equipment. 307 Inari, Nonoichi- based company to get Takai equipment to customers at the machi, Ishikawa-ken 921, Japan. 6 p. Feb. 30 cm. lowest possible prices with the minimum delay. (4) Shows • Summary: Th is catalog is printed with green ink on glossy illustrations of 11 pieces of Takai equipment, ranging from white paper. 29 photos in horizontal rectangular frames traditional to modern. (5) Gives the address, phone number, show the company’s many pieces of equipment and systems and logo of both Bean Machines and Takai. Address: 307 for manufacturing tofu and soymilk. Th e catalog is divided Inari, Nonoichi-machi, Ishikawa-ken 921, Japan. into fi ve sections: (1) Front page and introduction; (2) Basic tofu & soymilk equipment; (3) Deep-frying equipment and 1025. Product Name: Cold Mountain Miso [Red, Mellow systems; (4) Whole systems; (5) Ingredients & literature. For White, or Light Yellow]. more information, contact Wataru Takai. Manufacturer’s Name: Miyako Oriental Foods, Inc. Letter (fax) from Wataru Takai. 1996. Aug. 2. Takai’s Manufacturer’s Address: 404 Towne Ave., Los Angeles, CA records show that their green catalog of large-scale 90013. equipment was printed in Feb. 1979. Address: Ishikawa-ken, Date of Introduction: 1979. Japan. Phone: (0762) 48-1355-59. Ingredients: Soybeans, rice, miso culture, salt. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 14 oz plastic tubs, with lids. 1023. Product Name: Tofu. How Stored: Refrigerated preferably. Manufacturer’s Name: MU Tofu Shop. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Manufacturer’s Address: 1735 W. Greenleaf, Chicago, IL Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 238. Food Technology. 1986. 60626. Phone: 312-743-1339. Jan.; Economic World. 1987. June. p. 46. Th e brand name Date of Introduction: 1979. June. and package design were developed by Shurtleff & Aoyagi of How Stored: Refrigerated. Soyfoods Center. New Product–Documentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1979. July. New Tofu Shops & Soy Dairies in the West. Rebecca 1026. Product Name: Powdered Soybean Miso. Uchida. Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. Soyfoods Center. 1980. Sept. Tofu shops and soy dairies Manufacturer’s Address: 3236 Boulevard, Colonial Heights, in the West (2 pages, typeset). Gives the company’s name, VA 23834. Phone: 804 / 520-1513. address, and phone number. Owner: Rebecca Uchida. Date of Introduction: 1979. Leviton. 1981. Soyfoods. p. 28. Letter from Rebecca Ingredients: Soybeans, water salt (No wheat). Uchida. 1982. April 20. Th ey are still at 1735 W. Greenleaf in Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 44 lb (22 kg) metal cans. Chicago. She and her husband, Yoshi [Yoshiharu], own and How Stored: Shelf stable.

Nutrition: Moisture 5%, protein 33%, carbohydrates 25%, Date of Introduction: 1980. February. vegetable fat 14%, salt 20%. 332 calories per 100 gm. 6.08 gm New Product–Documentation: Ad in Whole Foods. 1980. glutamic acid per 100 gm. Feb. p. 5. “Instant Energy in a Bowl. Marusan introduces New Product–Documentation: Product Data Sheet. 1982. naturally delicious Instant Miso Soups.” Ad in Macroscope. Contents: Description. Ingredients. Composition. Amino 1980. May. p. 2. “Marusan makes quality a natural.” Shurtleff acids per 100 gm. Characteristics. Application. Specifi c & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 239, 259. Th e suggested uses. Packaging. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1983. Th e product was advertised with full-page color ads in trade Book of Miso. 2nd ed. p. 239. magazines. Letter (fax) from Norio Kushi. 1995. May 1. Steve Zoller says that San-J sells a miso powder, which they import from 1030. Product Name: Marusan’s Genuine Tamari Soybean Japan. It has always been an imported product. Sauce. Manufacturer’s Name: Marusan, Inc. (Importer). Made in 1027. Product Name: Yaki Tofu: Baked Soy Bean Curd Japan by Marusan. (Grilled Tofu). Manufacturer’s Address: 297 Galvan Place, Box 507, Manufacturer’s Name: Tokyo Food Processing Corporation. Bergenfi eld, NJ 07621. Or 8780 E. Valley Blvd., Rosemead, Manufacturer’s Address: Brooklyn, New York. CA 91770. Phone: 201-385-5367. Date of Introduction: 1979? Date of Introduction: 1980. May. Ingredients: Soy beans, water, calcium sulphate. Ingredients: Soybeans, water, salt (wheat free). Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 7 oz. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: glass dispenser, pint, or quart How Stored: Refrigerated. bottle. New Product–Documentation: Label. 1979. 5.75 by 3.5 How Stored: Shelf stable. inches. Paper. Photocopy black on white. Distributed by New Product–Documentation: Ad in Macroscope. 1980. Japan Food Corp. May. p. 2. “Marusan makes quality a natural.” “Genuine Tamari Soybean Sauce–priced like so-called tamari, but 1028. Earle, Stephen J. 1980. Re: Starting a new plant made the traditional wheat-free way from the aging process to manufacture real tamari in Virginia, and looking for of Mame Miso (Soybean Miso) for the denser, more fl avorful apprentices. Letter to Richard Leviton, editor of Soycraft richness only Real Tamari provides.” Note: Th is is the earliest magazine, 158 Main St. No. 3, Greenfi eld, MA 01301, Jan. 7. 2 published English-language document seen (July 2006) that p. Typed, with signature on letterhead. contains the term “real tamari.” • Summary: Sanjirushi is a well reputed manufacturer of genuine tamari soy sauce and soybean miso. “We have a 1031. Product Name: Miso Pastes (Mame Miso, Mugi Miso, subsidiary company called San-Jirushi International located Kome Miso). in Virginia and plan to establish a manufacturing facility for Manufacturer’s Name: Marusan, Inc. (Importer). Th e Mame tamari in the U.S. within one or two years time.” Miso is Made in Japan by Marusan. Th e company is looking for American personnel to assist Manufacturer’s Address: 297 Galvan Place, Box 507, in the eventual operation of the U.S. plant. “We would ask Bergenfi eld, NJ 07621. Or 8780 E. Valley Blvd., Rosemead, for an apprenticeship of about two years with a commitment CA 91770. Phone: 201-385-5367. of at least two more years to our employ aft er returning to Date of Introduction: 1980. May. the U.S. San-Jirushi would provide room, board, and a basic New Product–Documentation: Ad in Macroscope (New salary, plus return transportation to the U.S. upon completion York, NY). 1980. May. p. 2. “Marusan makes quality a natural. of the training.” Miso pastes–Prize winners in Japan, nutrition boosters for Note: Th is is the earliest English-language document you–they’re more than soups, they’re all-purpose high- seen (July 2006) that contains the term “genuine tamari” or protein seasonings that are the pride of the Sanshu region “genuine tamari soy sauce.” Address: Sanjirushi Jyozou Co. where Miso production was born!” Company logo reads: Ltd., 1 chome Meiseidouri, Kuwana-city, Mie-pref., Japan. “Health food all over the world.” Phone: (0594) 22-3333. 1032. Shurtleff , William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1980. In search of 1029. Product Name: Marusan’s Instant Miso Soup [Red, or the real tamari. Soyfoods 1(3):20-25. Summer. White]. • Summary: An in-depth study of tamari soy sauce, based Manufacturer’s Name: Marusan, Inc. (Importer). Made in on a trip by W. Shurtleff to the San Jirushi plant that Japan. makes tamari in Kuwana, Japan, on 5 July 1977. Contents: Manufacturer’s Address: 297 Galvan Place, Box 507, What is tamari? History of misuse of the term “tamari” by Bergenfi eld, NJ 07621. Or 8780 E. Valley Blvd., Rosemead, macrobiotics. Comparison with shoyu (Ingredients. Flavor, CA 91770. consistency, color, and aroma. A regional food. Japan’s earliest

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 231 soy sauce). Th e fi ve varieties and three grades of tamari. How Gives the company’s name, address, and phone number. tamari is made at San Jirushi. How to make tamari at home. Owner: Mr. Uehara. “For each of the fi ve varieties of shoyu [see table 1] Talk with Tom Uyehara. 1988. Oct. 24. His parents, the Japanese Agricultural Standards (JAS) recognize three Hiroshi and Alice Uyehara started making 2 types of tofu grades: Special Grade (Tokkyu, which comprised 53% of all just for sale at their grocery store in 1981. Th e fi rm was made shoyu in 1976 and which can consist of only high quality with calcium sulfate. In 1983 when Tom graduated from fermented shoyu unmixed with any chemical [HVP] shoyu); college he set up a plant on the property and continued to Upper Grade (Jokyu, comprising 26%); and Standard Grade make those two types of tofu. (Hyojun, comprising 13%). Each grade is determined by overall quality, total nitrogen content, soluble solids other 1035. Product Name: Tofu. than sodium chloride, and color. Some producers also make Manufacturer’s Name: Puueo Poi Factory. a special grade, higher than the others, called Tokusen, or Manufacturer’s Address: 265-D Kekuanaoa St., Hilo, Island Special Select; it has no legal identity.” of Hawaii, HI 96720. Phone: 808-935-8435. Table 1, titled “Varieties, composition, and production of Date of Introduction: 1980. September. Japanese shoyu,” (from Fukushima 1981, p. 347) gives basic How Stored: Refrigerated. statistics concerning the following fi ve varieties: koikuchi, New Product–Documentation: Soyfoods Center. 1980. Sept. usukuchi, tamari, shiro, and saishikomi. For each, it gives the Tofu shops and soy dairies in the West (2 pages, typeset). English name, Japanese name, Bé [Baumé; specifi c gravity Gives the company’s name, address, and phone number. / relative density], percentage of sodium chloride (weight Owner: Leslie Ahana Chang. Note that this is the former / volume), percentage of total nitrogen (weight / volume), location of Kreston’s Enterprise Tofu. percentage of reducing sugar (weight / volume), percentage of alcohol (volume / volume), pH, color, and percentage of 1036. Kikkoman Foods, Inc. 1980. Graham Kerr–the total annual shoyu production in Japan. Galloping Gourmet speaks out for Kikkoman: Soy sauce. Sanjirushi makes at least four diff erent consistencies of Teriyaki sauce (TV ad synopsis). Walworth, Wisconsin. 1 p. tamari: (1) Sashimi tamari (roku-sui) which is delectably rich Color. and thick; (2) Cuisine tamari (ryotei-damari) is especially • Summary: Note: Graham’s surname Kerr is pronounced prized as an all-purpose seasoning for cooking; (3) Tabletop like the word “Care.” We will give each frame a number: tamari shoyu (kibiki-damari; Kyu-sui) is meant to be used “Kikkoman Soy Sauce. (1) Graham Kerr. (2) Th is is both in the kitchen and at the table, quite like shoyu. It is Kikkoman naturally brewed soy sauce... (3) and these words made from 85% soybeans and 15% cracked roasted wheat; are terribly important to me as a cook. (4) It’s put together (4) Regular tamari shoyu (jusan-sui) is the most popular only with soy beans, wheat, salt and water. (5)... and brewed type of tamari product in Japan. It is made using the same and checked until its mild, but magnifi cent! (6) What it does proportion of ingredients as Tabletop Tamari except that 13 for your food is incredible... (7) It sparks it up and gives it life. parts of water are used for every 10 parts of soy and wheat. (8) Just look for the soy sauce called Kikkoman. (9) Hmm... Note: Th is is the earliest English-language document seen mm... I’ll say its fantastic.” (July 2011) that uses the word saishikomi to refer to twice- “Kikkoman Teriyaki Sauce. (1) I’ve got a wonderful fermented shoyu, which is one of Japan’s fi ve basic types of seasoning comparison to show you. (2) Th ere’s a link between shoyu. Address: New-Age Foods Study Center, Lafayette, this beautiful chicken... (3) Made from a base of Kikkoman California. naturally brewed soy sauce... (4) and a fantastic collection of herbs, spices and wine. (5) Th at’s easy... its basted with 1033. Ralphs. 1980. Ralphs super savings (Ad). Los Angeles Kikkoman teriyaki! (6) You can baste and marinade Times. Aug. 7. p. I18. and splash on this sauce... (7) on roasts and steaks and • Summary: Includes: “Everfresh Silken Tofu. 10½ oz. pkg. hamburgers and fi sh. (8) One of the world’s great tastes... 59¢.” Note: Th e “Ever-Fresh” brand is made and sold by Mori- Kikkoman teriyaki sauce.” Address: Walworth, Wisconsin. Nu (Morinaga). Address: [Southern California]. 1037. Product Name: Bottled Soymilk. 1034. Product Name: Firm Tofu, and Soft Tofu. Manufacturer’s Name: Matsuda-Hinode Tofu Co. Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Grocery Store. Manufacturer’s Address: 526 Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, CA Manufacturer’s Address: 4515 Centinela Ave., Los Angeles, 90013. CA 90066. Phone: 213-822-2288. Date of Introduction: 1980. Date of Introduction: 1980. September. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Bottle. How Stored: Refrigerated. New Product–Documentation: Soya Bluebook. 1980. p. 50. New Product–Documentation: Soyfoods Center. 1980. Sept. Tofu shops and soy dairies in the West (2 pages, typeset). 1038. Miyako Oriental Foods, Inc. 1980. Information

[Company founding and sales by brand]. 404 Towne Ave., fi rst appearance of this infl uential ad in a trade publication. Los Angeles, CA 90013. 1 p. Unpublished manuscript. Ads also in East West Journal. 1982. April. Rear cover. Soya • Summary: Th e company was founded on 21 Jan. 1976 and Bluebook. 1983. p. 75. started actual business on June 1. Brands and their share of Label. 1983. 9 by 2 inches and 6.5 by 3.5 inches (20 fl total company sales are Yamajirushi 60%, Kanemasa 20%, oz and 5.07 fl oz respectively). Paper. Orange, yellow and Yamaizumi 10%, Cold Mountain 10%, Private 3%. Markets: white on dark brown. Label. 1983. 6.5 by 3.5 inches. Paper. Western 85% (California 80%), Eastern 13%, Other 2%. Red and green on yellow. “San-J Tamari is the ultimate soy Address: Los Angeles, California. sauce! It is an entirely natural product made from the fi nest quality U.S.-grown soybeans. Slow-brewed in the traditional 1039. Ikegami, Seishiro. 1981. History of Morinaga tofu sales Japanese manner, San-J Tamari is aged a year or more before (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Jan. 14. Conducted by William it is bottled.” Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Leafl et. 1985. “Seasoned by Experience.” Shows the • Summary: Prior to 1976, hence prior to Morinaga’s new Labels for tamari, shoyu, and teriyaki seasoning and introduction of their aseptically packaged tofu, the Japanese marinade in full color. When the Sato family founded San- government passed protective legislation for small and Jirushi in 1804, the traditional recipe for tamari was already medium sized industries, not just for tofu shops. Morinaga over 500 years old. Today, seven generations later, San-J still now sells Sasa-no-Yuki brand Sealed Lactone Silken Tofu faithfully follows the same exacting art of natural brewing. (buro-dofu; buro means “blow” not “overfl ow”) in Japan. Taste the time-honored fl avor of San-J wheat-free Tamari, It has a 30-day shelf life. Th ey sold it before the protective Shoyu, and Teriyaki Sauce and trust the experience of Japan’s law was passed, so they can sell that volume now. Many fi nest. middle-size Japanese companies, which are not bound by the “Every year the All Japan Association of Shoyu Brewers legislation, are increasing their rate of buro-dofu production, holds exhibitions for soy product manufacturers. And even now. Morinaga did not make Japan’s fi rst buro-dofu. each year San-Jirushi is recognized for its superior quality. Ever Fresh Silken Tofu (EFST) was developed in 1976, Although there are nearly 3,000 shoyu manufacturers in mainly for the American market, and was introduced (fi rst Japan, there are less than 20 companies still producing sold) in 1977. It is not sold at all in Brazil since import genuine wheat-free Tamari soy sauce... Th e proud San-Jirushi duties are 100%. Th e number 3 market is Europe. Presently, logo was inspired by the Sato Family’s history in shipping. Morinaga could sell a fi xed amount of EFST in Japan, but Th ree horizontal lines represent the three great rivers of Kiso, there is no need to since buro-dofu is cheaper. Address: c/o Ibi, and Nagara, which fl ow to the nearby Bay of Ise.” Beech-Nut California Corp., P.O. Box 5759, San Jose, CA Ad in Vegetarian Times. 1988. April. p. 51. “You don’t 95150-5759. Phone: 408-293-8330. cook ordinary food. Why use ordinary soy sauce.” Also in East West. June. 1040. Fountain, Michael S. 1981. Marketing real tamari [San-J]. Soyfoods 1(4):7. Winter. 1042. Product Name: Canned Tofu, Instant Powdered Tofu • Summary: Th is real tamari, made in the traditional manner [Powdered Soymilk with a Separate Coagulant], Silken Tofu. without wheat, is brewed by the San-Jirushi Corp. of Kuwana, Manufacturer’s Name: Japan Food Corp. (Importer). Made Japan, the largest and most famous of only a few remaining in Japan. Japanese brewers of genuine tamari. Manufacturer’s Address: San Francisco, California. Date of Introduction: 1981. May. 1041. Product Name: San-J Tamari. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Can. Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. (Importer). New Product–Documentation: FIND/SVP. 1981, May. “Th e Made in Japan by San-Jirushi Corp. tofu market: Overview of a high-potential industry.” p. 103. A Manufacturer’s Address: 3236 Blvd., Colonial Heights, VA tofu importer. 23834. Date of Introduction: 1981. February. 1043. Kikkoman International Inc. 1981. Introducing the Ingredients: Whole soybeans, water, sea salt. Kikkoman soy ceremony (Ad). Food Processing (Chicago) Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 5.07 fl uid oz (150 ml) dispenser, 42(5):95. May. 20 fl uid oz (592 ml) plastic bottle. • Summary: Th e top half of the ad contains a photo showing How Stored: Shelf stable. two shoyu tasting dishes on a lacquerware tray, each with a Nutrition: Per 1 tbs.: Calories 11.34, protein 1.84 gm, bullseye (target) design on the bottom. carbohydrate 1.06 gm, fat 0 gm. Th e text begins: “Of all the fl avoring ingredients bearing New Product–Documentation: Ad in Natural Foods the name soy sauce, Kikkoman stands alone. Go ahead. Merchandiser. 1981. Feb. “Some Soy Sauces are Called Match us up with any other soy sauce and you’ll easily be able Tamari. But Th ey’re Not! San-J is the Real Tamari.” Th e to see, smell and taste the diff erence.”

Below the text is the octagonal Kikkoman logo with the Date of Introduction: 1981. November. words “Since 1630.” And below that the tagline: “Kikkoman. New Product–Documentation: Sugawara. 1981. Living Book Good taste is good business.” Address: P.O. Box 784, San magazine. Nov. 11. p. 82. Francisco, California 94101. Phone: (415) 956-7750. 1047. Product Name: Tofu Lasagna. 1044. Magida, Phylis. 1981. How to eat well and still kiss salt, Manufacturer’s Name: K. Tanaka & Company. sugar, and fat goodbye. Chicago Tribune. Aug. 10. p. A11. Manufacturer’s Address: 326 Amsterdam Ave., New York, • Summary: Many Chinese, Japanese and Korean dishes NY (Manhattan’s West Side). consist largely of vegetables. Instead of using meat, many use Date of Introduction: 1981. November. tofu (soy bean curd) as a protein source, since tofu contains New Product–Documentation: Sugawara. 1981. Living Book no cholesterol and relatively little fat. When eaten with rice, magazine. Nov. 11. p. 82. the protein quality of tofu increases. To decrease salt intake, use a low-salt soy sauce available 1048. Product Name: Kori Tofu (Dried-Frozen Tofu). from Yamasa soy sauce company. Or you can decrease the Manufacturer’s Name: Marusan, Inc. (Importer). Made in amount of salt or soy sauce by increasing the amount of garlic Japan. and/or ginger. Manufacturer’s Address: 1 Branca Rd., East Rutherford, NJ 07073. 1045. New York Times.1981. Kikkoman soy sauce even on Date of Introduction: 1981. December. catfi sh? Concern sees many uses. Oct. 10. p. 33. New Product–Documentation: Ad in Vegetarian Times. • Summary: Kikkoman is now the No. 1 brand of soy sauce 1981. Dec. Issue #53. p. 48. A pie chart compares the in the United States (with about 40-45% of the U.S. market), nutritional composition of kori tofu with regular tofu. A ahead of its two main domestic rivals, La Choy (a product photo shows the product package and the product served. of Beatrice Foods) and Chun King (made by the Reynolds Leafl et. 1982. “Kori-Tofu.” Contains nutritional information Tobacco Co.). and 14 recipes. Before Kikkoman arrived in the U.S. market in about 1956, soy sauce was sold primarily as a seasoning for Oriental 1049. Product Name: Mrs. Cheng’s Soy Beverages. foods. But since that time, Japan’s largest and best-known Manufacturer’s Name: Mrs. Cheng’s Soybean Products Inc. maker of soy sauce “has marketed its tart, sweet and salty Manufacturer’s Address: 1829 E. Palolo Ave., Honolulu, sauce as all-purpose and all American.” Oahu, HI 96816. Th e result has been truly remarkable. With patience and Date of Introduction: 1981. care, Kikkoman has steadily increased its market share. “Sales New Product–Documentation: Honolulu City Directory. in this country have grown an average of 15 to 20 percent a 1981. p. 275. Mrs. Cheng’s Soy Bean Products. 1829 E. Palolo year for the past fi ve years, reaching $27 million of the $100 Ave., Honolulu. Soya Bluebook. 1983. p. 62. 1987. Listed in million market in the fi scal year ended March 1981.” Honolulu City Directories up to present. In 1956, when Kikkoman fi rst began to advertise seriously here, the soy sauce market in America amounted to only 1050. Product Name: Mum’s Soybean Drink (Soymilk). about $1 million a year. On 21 Jan. 1972 Kikkoman held the Manufacturer’s Name: Sam Ward Co. (Importer). Nishimoto groundbreaking ceremony for its new plant in Walworth, Trading Co. (Distributor). Made in Japan. Wisconsin; that year “the annual per capita consumption Manufacturer’s Address: Los Angeles, California (Both). of soy sauce in the United States was one tablespoon or Date of Introduction: 1981. less.” In Japan today, annual per capita consumption of soy Ingredients: Water, soy beans, maltose, corn oil, salt. sauce is 340 ounces a year–compared with 5 ounces in the Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 6.7 fl uid oz (200 ml). USA–according to Malcolm W. Pennington, a director of How Stored: Refrigerated. Kikkoman’s American production subsidiary. New Product–Documentation: Label. 1981, dated. 2.5 by Kikkoman introduced a type of soy sauce that was new to 3.25 inches by 1.5 wide. Paper carton. Red, blue, green and most Americans; it was naturally fermented from soybeans white. Drawing of glass with drink and straw. Information on and wheat. “Many so-called soy sauce products [such as La label written in both English and Japanese. Choy and Chun King] are chemically manufactured sauces that use an amino acid base and artifi cial fl avorings.” 1051. Product Name: San-J Tamari (Low Salt). Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. (Importer). 1046. Product Name: Tofu Spinach Pie. Made in Japan by San-Jirushi Corp. Manufacturer’s Name: K. Tanaka & Company. Manufacturer’s Address: 3236 Blvd., Colonial Heights, VA Manufacturer’s Address: 326 Amsterdam Ave., New York, 23834. NY (Manhattan’s West Side). Date of Introduction: 1981.

Ingredients: Whole soybeans, water, sea salt. tempura) and other Oriental dishes. With color illustrations. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 5.07 fl uid oz (150 ml) dispenser, (3) San-J Tamari works fl avor wonders for seafood, and 20 fl uid oz (592 ml) plastic bottle. salads, soups and sauces. Available in regular and low-salt. How Stored: Shelf stable. (4) Introducing San-J Tamari Teriyaki; a list of ingredients is New Product–Documentation: San-Jirushi. 1981. given. Use for Beef teriyaki, Chicken teriyaki, Fish teriyaki, “Introducing San-J Tamari” (8-panel leafl et printed with and Barbecue teriyaki. (5) How natural tamari is made: a purplish-brown ink on beige paper). A table gives the centuries-old process in a modern, sanitary plant. “Because nutritional composition 100 gm of San-J Tamari–both natural fermentation is best started in cold weather, Tamari regular and low-salt. A photo shows the two container sizes. production usually begins in late autumn or early winter.” Th e process is described in detail and illustrated. Th e moromi is 1052. San-Jirushi International, Inc. 1981. Low salt. High aged in 1200-gallon cedar wood vats in unheated buildings taste. Its a fact. Only San-J tamari lets me reduce salt up to for at least 12 months. Address: Colonial Heights, Virginia. 95% and still serve great tasting meals my family loves (Poster and ad). Colonial Heights, Virginia. 1 p. Back to back, color. 1054. San-Jirushi International, Inc. 1981. Introducing San-J Reprinted in Soyfoods Marketing. Lafayette, CA: Soyfoods tamari. Colonial Heights, Virginia: San-Jirushi International. Center. 8 p. 26 cm. • Summary: “Only San-J is the real tamari. Only San-J Tamari • Summary: Th is 8-panel fold-out brochure is printed with gives you the best of both worlds–low salt and high taste.” purplish-brown ink on beige paper. On the front panel is A large color photo shows a woman, wearing a red bandana an illustration (line drawing) of a 150 ml bottle of “San-J and red and black plaid shirt, holding a plate of pasta and Tamari–the natural soybean sauce (TM). Brewed by San- vegetables. A small color photo shows 3 diff erent bottles of Jirushi Corp., Japan. Founded 1804.” Contents: Th e natural San-J tamari. soybean sauce. Made from choice whole soybeans, pure Th is appeared as a full-page ad (color and black-and- well water, and sea salt. Brewed naturally through the four white) in Natural Foods Merchandiser from about 1981 to seasons. Tamari is the traditional soy sauce. San-J Tamari 1984, including in the Jan. 1984 Soyfoods Pavilion special is diff erent: San-J Tamari is real tamari, real tamari is made insert (p. 6, unnumbered). Address: Colonial Heights, entirely from soybeans, the fi rst ingredient in San-J Tamari is Virginia. whole soybeans, the fl avor of tamari is due to proteins (which are slow to evaporate during cooking). Why tamari?: San-J 1053. San-Jirushi International, Inc. 1981. Introducing to Tamari is not only a superior seasoning–it is a natural fl avor America San-J Tamari, the natural soybean sauce. A superior enhancer, San-J Tamari extends further, San-J Tamari can all-purpose seasoning and fl avor enhancer. Colonial Heights, replace salt, San-Jirushi of Kuwana. An all-purpose seasoning Virginia: San-Jirushi International. 6 p. Undated. 28 cm. and fl avor enhancer: Color illustrations show recipe ideas. • Summary: Cover: Nine bottles of San-J tamari (small glass Nutrients per 100 grams of San-J Tamari and Tamari (Low and larger plastic) standing in a bed of soybeans against Salt). How San-J Tamari is made (each of the 12 steps is a reddish gold background. “Imported by San-Jirushi illustrated): International, Inc.” Exclusive national sales agent: Diamond “Th e cooked beans are mashed and shaped by an extruder Crystal Salt Company (Wilmington, Massachusetts). into tiny balls about 1 inch in diameter called ‘miso dama.’ Pages: (1) San-J Tamari is diff erent: San-J is the only Th e miso-dama are dusted with spores from a special mold “genuine tamari.” It is “made by traditional, natural called ‘koji’ (Aspergillus oryzae) and incubated for 48 hours fermentation of whole soybeans, water and salt. Its long aging under carefully controlled temperature and humidity in an process lasts from 12 to 18 months. No wheat is used.” Th e incubation chamber called the ‘muro.’ origin of Japanese tamari and shoyu. “Tamari was popular “Matured koji is removed from the ‘muro’ and mixed with in Japan by about 1260. In the mid-1600’s, brewers began salt water in large wooden vats to make the fermentive mash to dilute the traditional soybean–water–salt formula by called ‘moromi.’ Th e 1200 gallon cedar-wood vats containing adding wheat. Th is simplifi ed and hastened the brewing ‘moromi’ stand in unheated buildings for at least 12 months process and was the origin of today’s... shoyu.” Natural while the ‘moromi’ mellows and matures. tamari compared to common soy sauces (6 points). Th e San- “When fermentation is complete, free-running raw Jirushi Corporation–”is the largest, most famous producers tamari–called ‘kibiki’–is drawn off through spouts at the of genuine tamari in the world.” Th e company trademark bottom of the vats. Th e yielded liquids are fi ltered and cleared symbolizes the three large rivers that empty together into the of oils and dregs, then carefully mixed and blended. Th e Bay of Ise at Kuwana. Th e company began to manufacture blended product is allowed to stand for several weeks while tamari in 1804. more oils and dregs are removed. (2) Th e ideal meat entree seasoning. San -J Tamari is “Th e remaining mash is then removed from the vats and essential for Japanese cuisine (sukiyaki, sashimi, sushi, pressed to yield ‘assaku’ tamari.

“Raw tamari is pasteurized at 185º F (85º C) to eliminate (wheat free, in 5.7 oz refi llable dispenser and 20 oz glass all microorganisms and ensure against any further change bottle). Th e text explains that this real tamari is: Made only in the product through fermentation. Pasteurization does from soybeans. Mellower, smoother, richer than regular soy not eff ect valuable enzymes contained in Tamari, and also sauce. More protein than regular soy sauce. San-J Tamari will contributes to its delicate color and fl avor. Pasteurized Tamari enhance any dish. A concentrated, economical product. is transferred to sterilized holding tanks and allowed to stand and clear for two more weeks. Th en it is fi ltered again, 1058. Kikkoman International. 1982. Market share of U.S. bottled, inspected and shipped.” Address: Colonial Heights, soy sauce market (including teriyaki sauce): Dollar base. San Virginia. Francisco, California. 3 p. Unpublished manuscript. [1 ref] • Summary: Th e SAMI (Selling Areas Marketing Inc.) report 1055. Product Name: Hinode Agé or French Fried Tofu shows that for U.S. supermarkets in Dec. 1981 the market Pouches (Hinoichi). shares based on dollar sales were Kikkoman 49%, La Choy Manufacturer’s Name: Hinode Tofu Company. 32%, Chun King 13%, and Other 6%. In May 1982 these Manufacturer’s Address: 526 Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, CA fi gures were 50%, 32%, 11%, and 7%. In 1979 these fi gures 90013. were 44%, 34%, 16%, and 6%. Th us Kikkoman’s gains in Date of Introduction: 1982. February. market share were made largely at the expense of Chun King. Ingredients: Soybeans, water, soybean oil, sea salt. Address: San Francisco, California. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1½ oz (45.5 gm). How Stored: Refrigerated. 1059. Yamauchi, Shoan. 1982. History of Matsuda-Hinode New Product–Documentation: Ad in Soyfoods. 1982. Tofu Co. (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. June 29 and Aug. 11. Winter. p. 51. “Tofu Has Been our Business for 39 Years.” Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Th en Talk with Shoan Yamauchi. 1988. Oct. 23. Th is product was two follow-up interviews in Oct. 1988. introduced when they started the business in 1947. Label. • Summary: Th e company traces its roots back to Hawaii 1988, received. 5 by 7 inches. Red, white, black, and gold on to the Uyeda/Ueda Tofu Co., which may have started at an clear plastic fi lm. Hinoichi brand. Recipe on front of package earlier date. In 1939 Mr. and Mrs. Shokin Yamauchi, who for Rolled Tofu Pouches. $0.98 (10/88). had 6 (8??) children and very little money (the eff ects of the Depression were still being felt), bought Uyeda/Ueda Tofu 1056. Okada, Teizo. 1982. Re: History of Muso Co. Ltd. Co. on Aala Street from Mr. and Mrs. Uyeda/Ueda, who had (Muso Shokuhin) in Japan. Letter to William Shurtleff at bought it 2-3 years earlier from someone else. It was a very Soyfoods Center, April 22. 2 p. [Eng] small mom and pop operation. Two friends of the family, one • Summary: Muso was started in 1959 by Mr. Shuzo Okada, an uncle, helped the Yamauchi family to buy the company. president of the World Macrobiotic Association in Osaka. Either shortly before or shortly aft er the Yamauchi family George Ohsawa was not involved in establishing the bought the business, it was renamed Aala Tofu Co. It was company, but he was very much involved in the company’s never named Shoan Yamauchi Tofu, the name that appears in direction as an Associate. Muso started exporting soyfoods a 1942 Honolulu City Directory. Mrs. Yamauchi and her two to the West in 1963. Th e fi rst foods were shipped to Lima sons, Shoan (the #2 son, who had previously baked cakes in a N.V. in Belgium. Th e fi rst soyfoods were shipped to America bakery) and Shojin (the #3 son, who was still in high school), in 1966, when mugi (barley) miso was shipped to Chico-San ran the family business successfully. Shoan, who learned Inc. in Chico, California. how to make tofu from Mr. Ueda, the eldest son did most Note: Compare this history with that given by Ronald of the work. He recalls: “I worked like a dog, 15-16 hours a Kotzsch. 1984. “Made in Japan–naturally: Natural foods day, 7 days a week, for no pay and with almost no help from from the Muso Company are popular worldwide.” East West machines.” Shoan’s father did other work in the shipyards. Journal. Dec. p. 14-21. Kotzsch states that Muso was founded In 1942 Shoan married Shizuko ??, who also lived in Hawaii. in 1966 and began to export macrobiotic foods from Japan She joined him working at the tofu shop. to the West in 1969. Address: Export Dep., Otedori 2-5-1, Aft er World War II, in 1946, on his younger brother’s Higashi-ku, Osaka, Japan. Phone: 06-945-0511. recommendation, Shoan went to Los Angeles. Th e Japanese were just coming out of the wartime intern camps, many 1057. San-J. 1982. Some soy sauces are called tamari. But having lost everything. First he talked to the fi ve partners they’re not! San-J is the real tamari (Ad). East West Journal. at Matsuda Tofu Co., which had about 5,000 square feet April. Rear cover. versus 700 square feet for Hinode, but Matsuda didn’t want • Summary: Th is ad is a combination of black-and-white and to sell? What did they say? So 1946, Shoan gave the family color. In black-and-white are 5 quarts of so-called tamari tofu shop in Hawaii to his brother, Shojin, and in September under the following brands: Westbrae, Erewhon (2), Llama, 1947 he and his wife moved to the mainland. Before buying a and Pure & Simple. In color are 2 bottles of San-J Tamari business?? Th e owners of the Hinode Tofu Co. in Los Angeles

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 237 off ered to him their company for $4,000; it had cost them In about 1976 he added ganmodoki (deep-fried tofu $8,000 to set it up. Shoan decided to buy it, even though his burgers). In 1978 the company expanded into a million- wife didn’t want to. dollar automated factory, which made the fi rst pasteurized A little background on tofu in Los Angeles. Th e two early tofu in the western world. In 1981 the company’s name was tofu companies were Japanese-run Matsuda and Chinese-run shortened to the original name, Hinode Tofu Co. Th at year Wing Chong Lung. Both had started in about the 1920s (or tofu production was 81,000 pounds a week, rising to an perhaps before) in Los Angeles. estimated 140,000 lb/week in 1982–27% more than the next Matsuda Tofu Co. was started in about 1920 by a Mr. largest tofu manufacturer in the western world, Azumaya. Matsuda. During World War II the company was closed Mr. Mr. and Mrs. Yamauchi have three children, all adopted. Matsuda and his workers were sent to intern camps. Aft er the John Yamauchi, the second oldest, is very involved with the war, 5 partners (including Ken Osaki and a Mr. Sasaki), who tofu business. Rodney does sprouts. Address: 526 S. Stanford had very little money, obtained the Matsuda name from Mr. Ave., Los Angeles, California. Matsuda and essentially started a new company. Th ey had to move the business to a new location, probably because of 1060. Product Name: Tofu (Momen/Medium Firm), and zoning problems. Agé. Shortly aft er the war a new company named Tomoi Tofu Manufacturer’s Name: Fresno Tofu Co. Co. was established in Los Angeles at First and San Pedro Manufacturer’s Address: 943 E Street, Fresno, CA 93706. Streets. But they were bought out by Matsuda in 1946 for Phone: 209-268-1717. $8,000. Th ereaft er, having no competition, Matsuda raised Date of Introduction: 1982. November. prices and there was a furor among consumers. So the former New Product–Documentation: Talk with Brad (Musashi) owners of Tomoe (Mr. Tomoe and probably a partner) started Kubota, owner. 1990. Nov. 28. He bought this company in Hinode Tofu Co. in March 1947 at 6th St. and Towne Ave. Nov. 1982, when it was named Goto Tofu, owned by Nagaki Th ey made 1,500 cakes of tofu a day. Goto. He started by making the same two tofu products that Th en the owner of Tomoe Tofu Co. got sick. Shoan Mr. Goto had made, as shown above. He put his own logo Yamauchi’s younger brother, Shojin (“Jin”), had visited on the label. All the text was in English, with no Japanese Hinode in May 1946, then returned to Hawaii and told Shoan characters. Goto Tofu was formerly named Star Tofu, run to go to Los Angeles, as described above. by David Goto. David asked his younger brother, Nagaki, to In November 1947 Shoan and Shizuko began to run come to America from Japan to help him make tofu. Aft er a Hinode Tofu Co. at 6th St. and Towne Ave. Th ey made only while, Nagaki took over the company. David left the business three products: Japanese-stye soft and Chinese-style fi rm and started farming. Nagaki Goto changed the company tofu, plus agé (deep-fried tofu pouches). Th e early years name from Star Tofu to Goto Tofu. were tough; it was a small company with no reputation, and Note: According to Shin Sekai-sha. 1922. Zaibei Nippon- almost no machinery or capitalization. Th e tofu wholesaled jin Kan (Directory of Japanese in the USA). p. 238, in 1922 for $0.20/lb and was sold only in bulk. Again the work was Yokota Tofu-ya was located at 940 E Street in Fresno. hard and the hours long. In 1952-53 he moved the business Talk with Brad Kubota, who called. 1993. Oct. 12. He to 4th St. and Towne Ave (Why??), where he bought his own leased the business to Terry Sasaki and Debbie Sasaki Diaz building. Most of Mr. Yamauchi’s customers were Chinese for 1 year, but they abandoned it at the last minute, so he is and Japanese, with very few Caucasians. Hinode Tofu Co. now stuck with it, and trying to sell it again. grew steadily, and in 1956 Mr. Yamauchi bought out his competitor, Matsuda Tofu Co., the only other Japanese tofu 1061. Product Name: Tempeh. maker in the area. Th e new company, named Matsuda- Manufacturer’s Name: Kanai Tofu Factory. Hinode Tofu Mfg. Co. was now the biggest on the mainland Manufacturer’s Address: 515 Ward Ave., Honolulu, Oahu, HI United States. In 1964 (1962) the company established three 96814. milestones: (1) It became the fi rst company on the West Date of Introduction: 1982. Coast (and perhaps in the world) to package tofu; (2) It New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of became the fi rst U.S. company to get tofu in to a supermarket Manufacturers. 1981-82. p. 11. chain (Boy’s Market in Los Angeles); and (3) It became the fi rst U.S. company to make natto. 1062. Product Name: Kikkoman Sauces [Sukiyaki Sauce, In 1969 the company built and moved into its present Tonkatsu (Pork Cutlets) Sauce, Sweet & Sour Sauce, Menmi location at 526 S. Stanford Ave. Th at same year the company Sauce, Teriyaki Marinade and Sauce, or Tempura Sauce]. introduced several new tofu products that Yamauchi had Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman Foods, Inc. learned to make in Hawaii, which were not yet widely made Manufacturer’s Address: Walworth, Wisconsin. Or on the mainland: Kinugoshi (silken) tofu, nama agé (deep- Kikkoman International, Inc., San Francisco. fried tofu cutlets), and yaki-dofu (grilled tofu). Date of Introduction: 1982.

Ingredients: Sukiyaki: Soy sauce (water, wheat, soybeans, in the value of the U.S. dollar has led Miyako to develop its salt), sugar, wine, water, monosodium glutamate, lactic acid, own freeze-dried product in California. Th ey are working disodium inosinate, disodium guanylate, sodium benzoate with Mercer Processing Inc. in Palo Alto, which does the less than 1/10 of 1% as food preservative. Tonkatsu: Corn freeze drying. Th ey also plan to develop a spray-dried miso syrup, applesauce vinegar, water, soy sauce, salt, onion puree, (which is lower quality and less expensive, and contains modifi ed food starch, tomato paste, carrot juice concentrate, maltodextrins). For years they sold both freeze dried and spices, MSG, caramel, garlic powder. spray-dried miso to Fantastic Foods for use in their products. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 9. 5 oz (269 gm), 10 fl uid oz (296 But Fantastic now buys these products from Japan–even ml), 12 oz (340 gm). though the price is very high (over $4/lb) and increasing. How Stored: Shelf stable. Fantastic would like to buy from Miyako again. New Product–Documentation: Labels. 1982. Sukiyaki: 8 by 3.75 inches. Paper. Tonkatsu: 3.5 by 3.5 inches, circular top. 1065. Product Name: Soymilk. Renamed Soydrink by 1984. Paper. White, black, green on burgundy. Memmi: 8 by 3.75 Manufacturer’s Name: MU Tofu Shop. inches. Paper. Orange, black, white, green on yellow. Paper. Manufacturer’s Address: 1735 W. Greenleaf, Chicago, IL Sweet & Sour: 7.75 by 3.5 inches. Paper. Black, blue, green, 60626. Phone: 312-743-1339. white, yellow and brown on orange. Teriyaki: 8 inches by 3.5 Date of Introduction: 1982. inches. Paper. Black, green, pink, white, on orange. Good How Stored: Refrigerated. Housekeeping seal. Tempura: 8 inches by 3.5 inches. Paper. New Product–Documentation: Talk with Rebecca Uchida. Orange, black, white, green on gold. Color illustration of 1990. May 14. Th ey have been making tofu and soymilk since products on all labels. Reprinted in Soyfoods Marketing. 1979. Note: See 1998 talk with Yoshi. Lafayette, CA: Soyfoods Center. Label for “Soydrink” sent by MU Tofu Shop. 1998. July 2. Th ey still make this soymilk. 2¼ by 4¼ inches. Orange 1063. Product Name: Kikkoman Memmi: Soup Base for on white. “16 fl . oz. Keep refrigerated. Ingredients: Organic Noodles. soybeans and water. 1735 Greenleaf, Chicago, Illinois 60626.” Foreign Name: Menmi. On the label are the Japanese characters for soymilk. A note Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman Foods, Inc. says they have been making this soymilk since 1984. Talk Manufacturer’s Address: Walworth, Wisconsin 53184. Or with Terri Sangrash, offi ce manager at Mu Tofu. 1998. July Kikkoman International, Inc., San Francisco. 13. Terri started working at MU in 1983, and they fi rst really Date of Introduction: 1982. started selling soymilk with a label to various customers in Ingredients: Soy sauce (water, wheat, soybeans, salt), sugar, 1984; they may have sold it to one customer as early as 1979 salt, water, bonito extract, monosodium glutamate, disodium without a label. Th ey had a labeling problem, so they had to inocinate [sic, inosinate], disodium guanylate, succinic acid, change the name to Soydrink. Talk with Yoshi Uchida. 1998. vinegar, sodium benzoate less than 1/10 of 1% as a food July 13. He thinks they fi rst made and sold soymilk in about preservative. Sodium content: 165 mg per ½ teaspoon. 1982, in bulk to a restaurant named Blind Faith in Evanston, Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10 fl . oz (296 ml). Illinois. It was in a half gallon container with no label. He is How Stored: Shelf stable. quite sure they were not making soymilk in 1979–but all his New Product–Documentation: Labels, reprinted in Soyfoods records for that period have been destroyed. Marketing. Lafayette, CA: Soyfoods Center. Red, black, and white on yellow. 3.5 x 8 inches. Small color photo on front 1066. Product Name: Kikkoman Fried Rice Seasoning panel. Mix, Sweet & Sour Sauce Mix, Chow Mein Seasoning Mix, Teriyaki Sauce Mix, or Marinade Mix for Meat. 1064. Product Name: Cold Mountain Freeze Dried Miso, and Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman Foods, Inc. Spray Dried Miso [Red, or Light Yellow]. Manufacturer’s Address: Kikkoman International, Inc. San Manufacturer’s Name: Miyako Oriental Foods, Inc. Francisco, California. Manufacturer’s Address: 4287 Puente Ave., Baldwin Park, Date of Introduction: 1983. January. CA 91706. Ingredients: Fried Rice Mix: Powdered soy sauce (wheat, Date of Introduction: 1982. soybeans, salt, dextrin), malto-dextrin, wheat starch, torula New Product–Documentation: Food Technology. 1986. yeast, dehydrated onion, sugar, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, Jan. Talk with Mr. Teruo Shimizu of Miyako Oriental Foods. monosodium glutamate, dehydrated garlic, salt, spices, 1995. May 3. Th ese two products were fi rst introduced at caramel color, chicken fat (with BHA and citric acid added to the IFT show in 1982. For many years Miyako imported help protect fl avor), lactose, malic acid, disodium inosinate, them from Yamajirushi, its parent company in Japan. But disodium guanylate, acetic acid and citric acid. Yamajirushi no longer makes the products and the high Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1- to 2.125 oz foil pouch. Retails cost of Japanese imports resulting from the steady decrease for $0.45.

How Stored: Shelf stable. • Summary: Leviton visited the company on 1 Oct. 1982, a New Product–Documentation: Products with Labels week aft er the Grand Opening on Sept. 24, which celebrated purchased at Monty’s Food Store in Lafayette, California. the inauguration of their new 20,000 square foot miso 1984. March 16. 4.25 by 5.75 inches. Paper packet. Black, factory in Baldwin Park, California. Th e new plant’s capacity burgundy, brown, yellow, green. On each mix is a color photo is 2,000 tons/year but current production, which is nearly of the prepared dish in a lacquered bowl, on a grass mat with all computer automated (except for packaging and koji chopsticks. “Th e Kikkoman Touch” is the slogan for the large development), and which runs 3 days/week with 6 workers, is display. Most products in this line contain ingredients such as about 600 tons/year. MSG, caramel color, disodium inosinate, disodium guanylate, Th eir former plant in Los Angeles had 5,500 square feet and sugar. of production space and 5,500 square feet of storage space. Talk with Mr. Hattori of Kikkoman. 1984. March 27. An Miyako was founded in 1976 by Mutual Trading Co. and earlier version of this product line was launched about 8 years Yamajirushi Company. Address: Colrain, Massachusetts. ago. About 18 months ago the original line sold out and the new line was launched in early 1983. Th ree of the original 1069. Kazama, Akiyoshi. 1983. Early years of selling products were discontinued and three new ones took their macrobiotic foods to the western world (Interview). place. Th e package design is new. SoyaScan Notes. June 21. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. 1067. Shurtleff , William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1983. History of • Summary: Mr. Kazama worked for a German export Kikkoman. Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, CA company named Ravenna; he ran their Tokyo branch offi ce, 94549. 24 p. Feb. 26. Unpublished typescript. exporting machines, cameras, transistors, etc. Th at company • Summary: A comprehensive history of the subject. started in 1959. Contents: Introduction. Part I: Kikkoman in Japan. 1600’s- He fi rst heard of macrobiotics (before Paul Hawken 1887: Mogi family starts shoyu (1754-1800), Kikkoman brand arrived in Japan) from Mr. Shin Obayashi, a friend of his registered 1838, Tokyo Shoyu Co. new distributor 1881. from Waseda University. Obayashi and Michio Kushi (from Th e Noda Shoyu Cartel: How formed, bankruptcy of Tokyo Tokyo Univ.) had won Japanese government scholarships Shoyu Co. in the 1880’s, research lab and new technology to study in the United States. Both studied at Columbia 1900-09, 1910-1917: Arrival of the railroad in Noda in University. Obayashi is no longer living. Mr. Kushi asked 1911 revolutionized transportation and provided mass Obayashi to help him fi nd a company in Japan from which distribution, early switch from water to rail, shoyu factory in Kushi could import Japanese natural foods. Before that, Kushi Korea, miso sold in Korea and China, damaging competition, had to buy such foods from Chico-San at very high prices, fi nal struggle. Th e Noda Shoyu Co., Ltd., incorporation: like medicine. Mr. Obayashi contacted Mr. Kazama. Mr. Noda Shoyu Company founded 1918, history to 1920, Kushi found out the names of Chico-San’s sources by reading strikes in 1923, reorganization in 1925, the 1930’s and 1940’s. the Japanese labels on their products. He sent these names to 1947-1981: anti-monopoly hearings in the 1950’s, start of Mr. Kazama, who in turn bought the foods from Chico-San’s U.S. promotion in 1956, socialism and internationalism in sources. Evan Root and Paul Hawken suggested that Kushi Noda in the 1960’s, total fi gures for 1980-81, future. Part II: and Erewhon should buy directly from Japan. Kikkoman in the West. Introduction: Mostly U.S., the early Mr. Kazama was accustomed from his offi ce machines years (1860’s-1948). Preparing to establish roots (1949-1972): business to taking a low markup, so he charged Erewhon Advertising on U.S. television 1956, Kikkoman International a commission of only 10%. Th us Erewhon got low prices, Inc. established in San Francisco 1957, other branches, Leslie which was a key to their success. Mr. Kazama shipped the Salt Company (Oakland, California) bottled from bulk fi rst order to Erewhon 3-4 months before Hawken arrived in shipments from Japan (1968), Japan Foods Corp. acquired Japan. Hawken’s brother-in-law, a lawyer, helped provide the 1969. 1973-1981: Reasons for establishing fi rst U.S. plant June funds for opening the fi rst letter of credit. In about 1969 Mr. 1973, new marketing approach to shoyu, 1973 cookbook (Th e Kazama established a new company named Mitoku, which he Kikkoman way of fi ne eating, which uses the term “shoyu” owned. It was independent of Ravenna. throughout the book except in the recipes), two marketing Originally Mr. Kazama had bought his shoyu from decisions, change of name from shoyu to soy sauce, use of Marushima, but Muso objected, saying it was their exclusive chemical preservative, sales increase to number one by 1976, source. Muso asked Marushima to stop selling to Kazama, types of products, the future. Address: Lafayette, California. which Marushima did. Kazama then searched the length of Phone: 415-283-2991. Japan to try to fi nd a company that still made shoyu in the traditional way. He fi nally located Sendai Miso Shoyu. Sasaki 1068. Leviton, Richard. 1983. Cold Mountain Miso expands Jube, the 7th generation owner, made both traditional and [Miyako Oriental Foods in Los Angeles]. Soyfoods. Winter. modern shoyu products. He set aside a warehouse for only p. 7. his traditional products, and insisted that all his brewmasters

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 240 should master the traditional process fi rst. Sasaki eats brown Whole Foods. 1983. July. “To-Neu soy drink is packaged to rice. Mr. Kazama found Sendai by himself and fi rst went stay fresh and nutritious for months. Th e trick is keeping it there alone. Sendai fi rst sold its existing traditional product to around that long.” Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1984. Soymilk Industry Kazama in about 1970, then they expanded their production & Market. p. 46-47. Front label reads: “San-J Kibun TO-NEU by adding on new fermentation rooms as orders increased. Natural Soy Beverage, Non-Dairy.” Kibun specifi ed that San-J Sendai has a special process for keeping a large amount of could only sell the product to the natural and health food shoyu moromi in a huge vat; they then use half of this in each trades. Promoted for use as a refreshing drink, as a cereal new batch, so that part of each batch is old and part new. topping, or in place of milk in sauces, soups, and desserts. Th us the fi nished product is not clearly 2 years old but maybe an average of 2 summers old. Th us in each bottle, there 1072. Product Name: Soken Gentle Soy Sauce: Tamari with may be some shoyu that is 3 or 4 years old. Sendai gets very Less Salt. consistent quality. Th ey still use well water, but the maximum Manufacturer’s Name: Soken Trading, Inc. (Importer). Made amount they can use is limited by the government. in Japan. Today Mitoku’s biggest customer is Westbrae, followed Manufacturer’s Address: P.O. Box 1705, Sausalito, CA 94965. by Erewhon. Address: President, Mitoku Co., Tokyo, Japan. Date of Introduction: 1983. July. Phone: 03-201-6706. Ingredients: Soybeans, whole wheat, sea salt, water. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Glass bottles. 1070. Product Name: San-J Brown Rice Crackers (Seasoned How Stored: Shelf stable. with Tamari) [Teriyaki, Sesame Sunfl ower, Pumpkin, New Product–Documentation: Spot in Whole Foods. 1983. Vegetable, or Szechuan]. July. p. 52. Th is product contains only 7% salt (58% less than Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. standard tamari soy sauce). It comes in 5-oz. (easy-pour) and Manufacturer’s Address: 3236 Boulevard, Colonial Heights, 16 oz bottles. Note: Th is product has a new label and name. VA 23834. Th e previous name (1979) was “Soken tamari soy sauces” Date of Introduction: 1983. June. [Gentle]. Ingredients: Whole brown rice, various seeds, teriyaki or tamari soy sauce. 1073. Shurtleff , William. 1983. Report on visit to Kikkoman Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 2.3 to 3.5 oz cellophane bag. in Noda (Document part). In: William Shurtleff . 1983. Log How Stored: Shelf stable. of Soyfoods Research Trip to China and Japan: 29 May to 10 Nutrition: Per 100 gm.: 376 calories, 7.9 gm protein, 85.7 gm July. Lafayette, California: Soyfoods Center. 117 p. See p. 67- carbohydrates, 690 mg sodium. 85. Aug. Unpublished manuscript. New Product–Documentation: Spot in Soyfoods. 1983. • Summary: Discusses: New (1982) 16-minute color fi lm on Summer. p. 54. Th ese are the traditional senbei of Japan. On shoyu. Visit to plant #7 (the biggest, but old) and description package: “Wheat free, made with whole brown rice, no oils– of process. Meeting with Drs. Yokotsuka and Hayashi to ask they’re baked. Th e perfect 100% natural snack.” East West. questions and discuss matters of mutual interest related to 1987. Sept. Inside rear cover. “Most Honorable Crunch.” shoyu. Shurtleff off ers 5 suggestions/ideas to Kikkoman through 1071. Product Name: To-Neu Natural Soy Beverage. Dr. Yokotsuka: 1. Start calling their product Kikkoman Shoyu Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. (Importer). instead of Kikkoman Soy Sauce, to more clearly distinguish Made in Japan by Kibun Foods. it from HVP soy sauce. 2. Introduce a Kikkoman Shoyu Manufacturer’s Address: Colonial Heights, Virginia. product that contains no preservatives, preferably through Date of Introduction: 1983. July. aseptic bottling. 3. Explain without embarrassment or Ingredients: Water, soybean, corn oil, honey, lecithin, attempts to conceal that shoyu koji is made with molds, not calcium lactate, carrageenan. primarily with yeasts (as Kikkoman now says in their PR Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 6.76 fl uid oz (200 ml). Tetra Brik literature). 4. Explain without embarrassment or attempts to Aseptic carton. conceal why defatted soybean meal is used instead of whole How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. soybeans in making shoyu. 5. Open a traditional shoyu plant, Nutrition: Per 6.76 fl oz.: Calories 117, protein 7 gm, like the Goyo-Gura, at Walworth, Wisconsin, use it to make carbohydrate 3 gm, fat 9 gm. traditional, natural shoyu, sell that shoyu at a profi t, and New Product–Documentation: Label. 1983. 2.5 by 3.25 off er tours to visitors. Dr. Yokotsuka says he agrees strongly inches by 1.5 wide. Paper carton. Orange, yellow, black, and with all 5 points and has, in fact, been making the same white on green. “A refreshing new beverage made from whole recommendations for 10-20 years. soybeans! In the Orient, ‘to-nyu’ means ‘soymilk.’ Kibun Before 1960 Dr. Yokotsuka personally thought that shoyu TO-NEU is cholesterol free, and contains more protein than made from whole soybeans was of better quality than that ordinary milk. TO-NEU is also rich in vitamin E.” Ad in made from defatted soybean meal. A key diff erence is that

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 241 whole soybean shoyu has glycerol in it, which improves the Soft Tofu (Soybean Curd Cake). fl avor. Th e glycerol test is the key way to distinguish between Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Products. the two types of shoyu. Later Kikkoman also found that Manufacturer’s Address: 4515 Centinela Ave., Los Angeles, alcohol is a key to shoyu fl avor. Kikkoman still uses lots of CA 90066. Phone: 213-822-2939. whole soybeans in making shoyu. Th eir Tokusen (special) Date of Introduction: 1983. grade uses about 50% shoyu made from whole soybeans. If How Stored: Refrigerated. you compare shoyu aged for 1, 2, or 3 years, the 1-year shoyu New Product–Documentation: Talk with Tom Uyehara. has the most volatiles, which are the key to shoyu fl avor, and 1988. Oct. 24. In 1981 his parents, Hiroshi and Alice Uyehara bouquet/aroma (kaori). Shoyu made in the traditional way started making 2 types of tofu just for sale at their Aloha without temperature control shows wide variations in fl avor Grocery Store. Th e fi rm was made with calcium sulfate. In and composition from season to season. 1983 when Tom graduated from college he set up a plant on Meeting with T. Mizunuma to ask questions. Th e head of the property in a warehouse behind the grocery store and the Goyo Gura (which is part of plant No. 4) thinks that the continued to make those two types of tofu. Th e business was shoyu made there is of better quality than that made in most a partnership between himself, his sister, and his sister in law. modern plants. Th e Goyo Gura still provides Japan’s imperial Th e grocery store still exists and is run by his brother. household with Kunaicho shoyu, but now the household is required to pay for it. All the ingredients come from Japan. 1076. Product Name: Kikkoman Lite Soy Sauce (Moderately Th e salt is made by a modern process on the Inland Sea Low Sodium). (Setonai-kai); it is not from traditional enden salt fi elds. Th e Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman Foods, Inc. soybeans are from Hokkaido, the wheat from the Kanto plain. Manufacturer’s Address: Walworth, Wisconsin 53184. No yeasts are added to the moromi. Th e result is an excellent, Date of Introduction: 1983. soft and round (maroyaka) fl avor says Mizunuma. Th e fi rst Ingredients: Water, wheat, soybeans, salt, lactic acid, sodium JAS standards for shoyu were established in 1950. Factory No. benzoate: less than 1/10 of 1% as a preservative. 6 in Noda is more advanced than the Walworth plant since it Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 0.3 oz single serving packet, or 5 has a continuous, circular koji plant. oz or 10 oz bottles. A major problem with using enzymes only for making How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. shoyu is that there is no glutamase in enzymes, so the glutamic acid content of the shoyu is low. It is insoluble in koji hyphae. Using enzymes is very quick and easy, but they are very expensive; now it is much cheaper to make and use koji than to use commercial enzymes. In the future, they may fortify koji with enzymes. Commercially, to get enzymes, they must make koji anyway. With special enzymes, they may use immobilized enzymes (koteika koso). Sodium benzoate is the only preservative allowed in shoyu in Japan; in the USA BHA may also be allowed. HVP (amino-san) shoyu is allowed in Japan but very little is made, and that is sold mostly for business use. Not all shoyu contains some fermented shoyu. New Product–Documentation: Talk with Danji Fukushima Address: P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. Phone: of Kikkoman. 1982. June 2. Th is product is made using 415-283-2991. Kikkoman’s regular shoyu process, then about 40% of the salt is removed by electrodialysis. 1074. Product Name: Nama-agé, and Atsu-agé. Labels. 1983. 8 by 3.5 inches. Paper. Red, black, and Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Tofu Factory Inc. white on green. “Premium quality. Naturally brewed. Manufacturer’s Address: 961 Akepo Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, Since 1630. 40% less salt. 100% original Kikkoman fl avor!” Hawaii. Phone: 808-845-2669. 100 mg of sodium per ½ teaspoon serving. Reprinted in Date of Introduction: 1983. October. Soyfoods Marketing. Lafayette, CA: Soyfoods Center. Food New Product–Documentation: Oda. 1983. Hawaii Herald. Management. 1986. Dec. Contains 40% less sodium than Oct. 7. p. 5. “Tofu enjoys increasing popularity.” Ad in Hawaii regular soy sauce. Ad in Cooking Light. 1989. Jan/Feb. p. 92. Herald. 1983. Oct. 7. “Make your favorite recipe even better “How to go lite on the salt... 40% less salt.” with the best in soy bean products. Tofu, natto, aburage, konnyaku, okara, yakidofu. 961 Akepo Lane. Phone 845- 1077. Product Name: Cold Mountain Hoisin Sauce (Bulk). 2669.” Manufacturer’s Name: Miyako Oriental Foods, Inc. Manufacturer’s Address: 4287 Puente Ave., Baldwin Park, 1075. Product Name: Firm Tofu (Soybean Curd Cake), and CA 91706.

Date of Introduction: 1983. is oft en written as an octagon with the character for “ten New Product–Documentation: Portfolio sent by Terry thousand” or man written inside the octagon. Shimizu of Miyako Oriental Foods. 1999. Nov. 22. Talk with “In 1872 and 1873, shortly aft er the Meiji Restoration of Terry Shimizu. 1999. Nov. 29. Th is product was introduced 1868, Mogi Saheiji entered Kikkoman in two world’s fairs, the in late 1982 or 1983. It was made for Mutual Trading Co., fi rst held in Amsterdam and the second in Austria. Kikkoman packaged under the latter’s private label, and sold only in bulk was awarded a letter of commendation for excellence at the to institutions. Austrian fair, and following this, Mogi Saheiji redoubled his eff orts to promote the brand. In 1877 Kikkoman received 1078. Product Name: San-J Tamari Teriyaki. Renamed a second-place medal at the All-Japan Industry Promotion Natural Teriyaki Sauce by 1986. Fair, and in 1879 it was registered in California as a legally Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. (Importer). recognized brand name, a move that predated the same legal Made in Japan by San-Jirushi. protection in Japan by six years!” Address: Prof. of History, Manufacturer’s Address: Colonial Heights, VA 23834. California State Univ., Hayward. Date of Introduction: 1983. Ingredients: Tamari, sweet rice wine, water, honey, apple 1080. Rocky Mountain Jiho.1984. Maboroshi no Kikkôman vinegar, rice vinegar, mustard, garlic, ginger, plum juice, Denver kôjô [Th e phantom Kikkoman soy sauce plant in xanthan gum, white & black pepper. Denver]. Jan. 25. p. 4; Feb. 1. [Jap; eng+] Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 5, 10, 20 and 61 oz bottles. • Summary: Some people believe that Shinzaburo Mogi, of How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. Kikkoman, founded an early shoyu plant in Denver. Th e New Product–Documentation: Label. 1983, undated. 2 article guesses that Shinzaburo Mogi wasn’t living in Denver labels: 7 by 4.5 inches (61 oz). Paper. Brown and green on all the time. It takes a full year to make naturally fermented yellow. “A teriyaki sauce, marinade, glaze and tenderizer...” shoyu. Th erefore he might have delegated the responsibility to another person named Naojiro Tatekawa, who lived in 1079. Fruin, W. Mark. 1983. Kikkoman: Company, clan and Denver and had a shop named Tatekawa Shoten, which community. Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University opened in February 1909 (Meiji 42). Tatekawa came from a Press. xiv + 358 p. Illust. Index. 24 cm. [230 ref. Eng] family of shoyu producers in Hiroshima, Japan. He visited • Summary: An excellent business history and No. 35 in Denver in the summer of 1907 to prepare for opening the series Harvard Studies on Business History. Contents: Tatekawa Shoten. Th e rumor that Mogi opened a shoyu Introduction. 1. Factories in the fi elds. 2. Clan and cartel factory in 1907 (Meiji 40) matches that year. Maybe they in Meiji Japan. 3. From cartel to corporation and beyond. knew each other and made a deal. We may never know for 4. A loyal retainer’s farewell. 5. Prelude to turmoil. 6. Th e sure. In 1897 Shinzaburo Mogi established Yamato Yunyu Noda Strikes: 1923 and 1927-28. 7. Corporate maturation. Kaisha, an import company, in Chicago. He was president. 8. Democratization and internationalization. Conclusion. Th e Nichibei Nenkan for 1914 gives the address of Yamato Appendix A. Ie [stem family lineage] and the shoyu Shokai as 36 S. State St., Chicago. Phone 1863. industry. B. Scroll from Mogi Fusagoro with preface by Note that there is no listing for Mr. Tatekawa in the Mogi Keizaburo on the founding of a Noda Shoyu brewery, Denver (Colorado) City Directories from 1906-1910. 1872. C. Rules and Regulations of the Noda Shoyu Brewers’ Address: P.O. Box 1073, Denver, Colorado 80202. Phone: Association. D. Noda Shoyu Brewers’ Association Income 295-1848. and Expenses, 1888-1918 (yen). E. Property held by Mogi- Takanashi families joining Noda Shoyu Co. Inventory taken 1081. Boyle, J.H. 1984. Humble soy sauce and 300 years of November-December 1917. F. New wage and work proposal, business skill. Review of “Kikkoman: Company, Clan and Noda Shoyu Company, 1919. Notes. Glossary. Community” by Mark Fruin. Asian Wall Street Journal. Feb. Th is book was very favorably reviewed by Masaru 22. [1 ref. Eng] Udagawa in Business History Review. 1986. Spring. p. 169-70. • Summary: “’Kikkoman’ is a model of business history Concerning the Kikkoman brand (p. 59): In 1838, writing. Th e Japanese knack for accommodating both Mogi Saheji petitioned for and received registration for the tradition and modernity in their institutions is well known. brand name Kikkoman by the central government of Japan. Th is book is an engaging case study of that talent.” Although this Mogi family has produced other shoyu brands, Kikkoman is the fi rst and only traditional Japanese Kikkoman was the pride of the family, its private label. business to succeed internationally–not bad for an enterprise When written longhand in Japanese characters, the brand launched 322 years ago in Noda by two farmer-merchants is composed of three characters: ki, for “tortoise,” meaning with a few contract laborers. “Kikkoman” has been the good luck and longevity in Chinese and Japanese folklore; corporation’s name for only 20 years. Before that it was a ko means “fi rst-rate”; and man suggests “ten thousand” brand name for the leading brand of shoyu made by the or forever. Kikko also means octagon, so the brand name company–named Noda Shoyu K.K. Interestingly, this brand

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 243 was fi rst registered in California in 1879, then six years later, Total annual production of powdered soy sauce in Japan is in 1885, it was registered in Japan. Mr. Fruin believes that 2,000 to 2,500 tonnes and Kikkoman makes about 30% of Keizaburo Mogi, president of Kikkoman from 1962 to 1974, this. By comparison, 360,000 tonnes of total soy sauce solids deserves much of the credit for “developing the international are made in Japan each year. outlook and product diversifi cation that has put the company In Japan, the big 3 shoyu makers focus on the consumer in such a strong market position in recent years.” retail market. Th e smaller manufacturers give more attention Japanese custom does not require that a family business to industrial food processors. Shokuryo Shinbun is a good be passed on to an unqualifi ed eldest son. For centuries source of information on this. Address: Kikkoman Marketing adoption has been condoned to substitute a promising & Planning Inc., 50 California St., Suite 3600, San Francisco, heir for a natural son lacking in ability. Sons are usually CA 94111. adopted aft er they are old enough to have demonstrated their talent. Since 1962, two of Kikkoman’s three presidents 1083. Fruin, W. Mark. 1984. Recent developments at have been adopted sons. Both had degrees from prestigious Kikkoman (Interview). Conducted by William Shurtleff of universities and were adopted only aft er completing their Soyfoods Center, April 20. 1 p. transcript. academic training. Th e book shows that just as family and • Summary: Up until 1982, sales of Kikkoman shoyu in the form are intertwined, so are the company and its surrounding USA had been growing at the rate of 10-15% a year. Th at year community–Noda. Address: Prof. Asian History, California it slowed to only 2-3% a year due to two factors: A downturn State Univ., Chico, CA. in the economy and concern over sodium consumption. So the company began to import, then to make their mild 1082. Hattori, Terumitsu. 1984. Kikkoman second generation (reduced salt) soy sauce, but they have not been promoting it sauce products and powdered soy sauce (Interview). much. Address: Palo Alto, California. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center, March 27. 2 p. transcript. 1084. Annual sales fi gures and number of employees for • Summary: Of Kikkoman’s second generation soy sauce America’s larger soyfoods companies: Dun & Bradstreet products, teriyaki sauce is by far the best seller. It has been database search. 1984. 3 p. May 23. Unpublished manuscript. made at Walworth, Wisconsin, from the outset. Other • Summary: Yamauchi Enterprises, Los Angeles, products that sell about 50,000 cases/year of each (quite California: $4,500,000 (60 employees). Cedarlane Foods, small) are Kikkoman Sukiyaki Sauce, Tempura Sauce, Menmi Los Angeles, CA: $1,000,000 (11 employees). Kanai Tofu Sauce (for noodles), Steak Sauce, and Tonkatsu Sauce (for Co., Hawaii: $700,000 (20 employees). American Pride, breaded pork cutlets or other deep-fried foods; it is sold only Iowa (Earl Kaplan): $500,000 (2 employees). Tofu Time at Japanese food stores, not at supermarkets). Sweet & Sour (a Inc., Brooklyn, New York: $329,000 (11 employees; makes paste) has small sales. All these products except Steak Sauce Tofutti). Northern Soy, Rochester, New York: $350,000 (11 and Sweet & Sour were on the market in America in 1976 employees). Island Spring, Vashon, Washington: $323,000 (when the Walworth plant opened), but at that time most (15 employees). Ohio Tofu Co., Cleveland, OH (Brooks are made in Japan. Now all are made in America. Tempura Jones): $250,000 (11 employees). Ota Tofu Co., Portland, and Menmi started being made in America in about 1978. Oregon: $171,000 (5 employees). Mu Tofu, Chicago, Illinois: Sukiyaki started in America in about 1981. Teriyaki was fi rst $170,000 (8 employees). Yah Kee, Boston, Massachusetts: launched in Japan about 20 years ago (i.e. 1964). $100,000 (3 employees). Cricklewood Soyfoods, Mertztown, Kikkoman now makes about 20,000,000 liters/year of Pennsylvania: $20,000 (2 employees). Nomura Tofu Co., shoyu and sauces at Walworth, but 20% of this fi gure is Chicago, Illinois: Not available (5 employees). Teriyaki Sauce, which contains a little more than 50% shoyu. Concerning powdered soy sauce: Th is started to be made 1085. Finley, David; Goldberg, Ray. 1984. Kikkoman in Japan about 20 years ago for use in Ramen sold in a bag. Corporation. Unpublished Harvard Business School Report. Initially it was mainly HVP but the fl avor was poor. Lots of 33 p. No. 9-585-102. [10 ref] fl avor (i.e. ethanol) is lost when shoyu is dried; only 0.3% • Summary: A ten year update on the original 1974 Harvard ethanol is left . Gradually the fl avor of powdered shoyu has Case Study of Kikkoman and one of the best insights improved with improvements in the spray drying process and available into Kikkoman’s history and operations (although by using a dextrin carrier, which improves fl avor. A special some of the data has been disguised for competitive reasons). type of dextrin is added to the liquid product before spray Kikkoman sales in 1982 were about $547 million. drying. Th e new product was fi rst used in Instant Ramen, Contents: Early diversifi cation–Th e wine industry. sold in a separate pack of soup base with other seasonings Company history. Soy sauce production. Th e soy and spices. Nowadays the product is selling well, but it is still sauce industry. Structural change. Kikkoman strategy. a very small as a percentage of the total, probably less than Expanding soy sauce sales in Japan. Diversifying into other 0.5% on a solids basis in Japan, and even less in the USA. food products (Kikko Foods was established in 1961).

Development of the U.S. market. New businesses (Restaurant, and sell tofu in Oct. 1984 at the New Meiji Kitchen. Th ings health food, and leisure). Technological innovation. Final didn’t work out, so Bob quit in December. Shortly aft er that considerations. the company went bankrupt, so Bob off ered to buy him out Exhibits. 1. 30 top Japanese food companies in FY (Fiscal in Jan. 1985. But for the next 18 months Bob had to look for Year) 1982, with sales. (1) Kirin Brewery, (2) Suntory, (5) a new location. In Oct. 1986, having renamed the company Yuki-jirishi / Snow Brand Milk Products, (6) Ajinomoto, Sumiyoshi-ya Foods USA, he started to make tofu at his new (8) Meiji Milk Products, (9) Nisshin Flour Milling, (10) location in Gardena. Morinaga Milk, (19) Showa Sangyo, (20) Nisshin Oil, (23) Talk with Margaret Endo of Los Angeles. 1997. March 12. House Food, (25) Kikkoman. Seizo Tanibata is her uncle. She just talked with him about 3. Quantity of soy sauce produced and market share of the history of this tofu shop. He said he took it over from a major Japanese manufacturers. 1982 soy sauce market share Mr. Yoshi. was Kikkoman 30.4%, Yamasa 8.9%, Higashimaru 4.6%, Form fi lled out by Bob Tanibata. 1998. July 2. His Higeta 3.0%, and Marukin 2.5%. Th us the top 5 had 49.4% of company, Sumiyoshiya Foods USA is now located at 1429 W. the market. 5. Change in per capita food intake (1975-79). 6. 134th St., Gardena, California 90249. Phone: 310-538-2626. Kikkoman fi nancial data. 8. List of main products. 9. World Th is same name and address is stamped on the envelope. per capita wine consumption by country. France is tops with He encloses a Label for Kinu–Hand made Japanese tofu, but 90 liters/person/year. 11. Growth through diversifi cation. on the label is written “Sumiyoshi-Ya U.S.A., Gardena, CA In 1964 soy sauce accounted for 87% of Kikkoman’s sales, 90247.” Talk with Bob Tanibata. Th is company has made both in 1983 for 59%. 12. 1980 Asian population of the U.S. by regular (momen) and kinu (silken) tofu since it started in state. Total: California 1,253,987. Hawaii 583,660. New York 1984. He was there making tofu in 1984. He started to make 310,531. Illinois 159,551. Texas 120,306. New Jersey 103,842. tofu alone in Jan. 1986, and that year he moved to his present Washington state 102,503. address. Oriental immigrants to the USA 1972-81. Total. 1,794,682. From Philippines 375,517. Korea 290,322. 1088. Kotzsch, Ronald E. 1984. Made in Japan–naturally: Vietnam 233,274. China and Taiwan 213,908. Address: 1. Natural foods from the Muso Company are popular Research Associate; Prof., Harvard Business School, Boston, worldwide. East West Journal. Dec. p. 14-21. Massachusetts 02163. • Summary: “Muso was founded in 1966 as a macrobiotic food company, aiming to provide the highest quality 1086. Product Name: Lima Ohsawa’s Miso [Genmai, Hatcho, traditional Japanese foods. It is now the oldest and largest or Mugi]. macrobiotic food concern in Japan. Within the natural foods Manufacturer’s Name: Chico-San, Inc. (Importer). Made in movement in the country it is one of the top three fi rms. Japan. Also, since 1969, it has been a major exporter of macrobiotic Manufacturer’s Address: Chico, California. foods. With its Tokyo-based competitors the Mitoku Date of Introduction: 1984. October. Company and Ohsawa Japan, it dominates the large and New Product–Documentation: Chico-San Cracker Barrel. growing international trade in Japanese foods.” 1984. Oct. p. 1, 4. Labels read: “Pressure release valve. Keep Shuzo Okada, one of George Ohsawa’s earliest and most unclogged. Organic, Unpasteurized.” Aged over one year devoted disciples, was the son of a family of Osaka textile (Genmai and Mugi); Over 2 years for Hatcho. Th is pressure merchants. Aft er Ohsawa’s death in 1966, Okada invested release bag is a major innovation, and a fi rst. $3,000 to establish Muso Shokuhin in Osaka, with his eldest son Teizo as director. Yuko Okada, the second eldest Okada 1087. Product Name: Tofu, and Kinu Tofu. son, was head of the export division; he had spent 6 years Manufacturer’s Name: Sumiyoshi-ya. living in Boston, mostly working for Erewhon. Initially the Manufacturer’s Address: San Pedro St., Carson, CA 90745-6. company was located in Fukusenji, a dilapidated Buddhist Date of Introduction: 1984. October. temple. How Stored: Refrigerated. Today “the company has gross annual sales of over $25 New Product–Documentation: Talk with Seizo “Bob” million and employs over 120 people. In addition to the Tanibata. 1989. Feb. 22. Bob was an engineer who worked Osaka headquarters, built at a cost of over $1 million, it has with Douglas Aircraft for 21 years. Th en he was laid off , so an 18,000-square-foot production and warehouse facility he was looking for work. A friend put him in contact with in Osaka, as well as branch offi ces in six other cities. It a guy from Sumiyoshi-ya in Japan who came to America in wholesales over 1,800 products in the domestic market... late 1984 with all the equipment to start a tofu company. Th e Muso has accounts with nearly half of Japan’s 3,400 natural guy needed an American who spoke English to help him food outlets. In addition, it has developed a rapidly growing out. So Bob began to work with him. He told Bob he was franchise chain of fi ft y-two stores, mostly in the Kansai area... an expert tofu maker, but he wasn’t. Th ey started to make “About $5 million a year comes from international sales...

Growth in the international sector has been steady despite Manufacturer’s Address: 1735 W. Greenleaf, Chicago, IL the blow of the 1981 Erewhon bankruptcy. (Muso had credits 60626. Phone: 312-743-1339. of about $200,000 when its chief customer failed, and lost Date of Introduction: 1984. over $150,000 of that.) Muso, which is now owned by more Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 8 oz. than fi ft y investors, was able to survive the shock. Muso How Stored: Refrigerated or frozen. exports about 270 diff erent products... New Product–Documentation: Talk with Rebecca Uchida. “At present a runaway best seller is a soybean drink made 1990. May 14. Th ey have been making tempeh since 1984. of soybeans, pearl barley, kombu sea vegetable, and malt Label for MU Tempeh sent by MU Tofu Shop. 1998. July sweetener. Marketed in North America as Edensoy it has 2. Th ey still make tempeh. 4 inches square. Brown on orange. proven an excellent dairy substitute.” “Keep refrigerated or frozen. 8 oz. 1735 Greenleaf, Chicago, Th ere follows a description of the Nanki Umeboshi Co., Illinois 60626.” Muso’s principal supplier, and then of the Kanemitsu Miso Talk with Terry, who runs the business side of MU Tofu. Co. (in Fuchu City, Hiroshima prefecture) which has been 2001. June 19. Yoshi still makes tempeh. He makes all the in business for 300 years. “While it once made sake and soyfoods; the production is a one-man show. Th e company is soy sauce as well, it now produces only miso–1,300 tons a doing well. year.” Th ere are now some 2,000 miso makers in Japan and Kanemitsu is one of only 200 which produce more than 1092. Product Name: Nishime-Agé (Stuff ed Deep-Fried Tofu 1,000 tons annually. It is one a of a very few which produce Pouches). miso according to traditional methods... It is aged in natural Manufacturer’s Name: Rural Food Products, Inc. temperatures for two years, run through a masher, then Manufacturer’s Address: 117 Mango St., Wahiawa, Oahu, packed in either 40-pound wooden kegs or 1-pound plastic Hawaii 96786. Phone: 808-621-5603. pouches. “All the miso going into the pouches is pasteurized Date of Introduction: 1984. by 84ºC heat. If it were not, gases produced by the continuing New Product–Documentation: Hawaii Directory of fermentation would burst the bags. Kegs may or may not be Manufacturers. 1983-84. p. 12. Rural Food Products, 117 pasteurized.” Mango St., Wahiawa, Oahu, Hawaii 96786. Th ey make tofu, Photos show Yuko Okada. aburage, konnyaku, and Nishime-Agé.

1089. Product Name: Tofu. 1093. Product Name: Cookies (with Tofu and Vegetables). Manufacturer’s Name: Island Style Soybean Products Inc. Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Tofu Factory. Manufacturer’s Address: 2661 Puninoni St., Wahiawa, Oahu, Manufacturer’s Address: 961 Akepo Lane, Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii. Hawaii. Phone: 808-845-2669. Date of Introduction: 1984. Date of Introduction: 1984? New Product–Documentation: Directory of Manufacturers. 1983-84. p. 11. 1094. Product Name: Powdered Shoyu, and Powdered Tamari. 1090. Miyako Oriental Foods, Inc. 1984. Cold Mountain Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. Miso: Experience in new fl avor. Natural protein from Manufacturer’s Address: 3236 Boulevard, Colonial Heights, soybeans with exciting recipes (Leafl et). Baldwin Park, VA 23834. California. 8 panels. Front and back. Date of Introduction: 1984? • Summary: Th e front two panels of this full color, glossy Ingredients: Soybeans, salt, water (No wheat). leafl et (see next page) show containers of the three types Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 44 lb (22 kg) metal cans. of Cold Mountain Miso and Cold Mountain Koji resting How Stored: Shelf stable. on a wooden cutting board and a bed of soybeans. In the New Product–Documentation: Letter (fax) from Norio background are many colorful vegetables. On the inside four Kushi. 1995. May 1. Steve Zoller says that San-J sells a panels are color photos of the four products, a description powdered soy sauce which is made for them from their non- of miso as “A living work of art,” fi ve nutritional features of organic (soy meal) soy sauce. Th e product is spray dried and miso, and a discussion of how these products are made in is coated with maltodextrin, which comprises 25% of the America. On the back two panels are four recipes for using fi nished product. Cold Mountain Miso. “For many more delicious recipes, see Talk with Steve Zoller, vice-president and general Th e Book of Miso, by William Shurtleff and Akiko Aoyagi.” manager of San-J. 1995. May 1. Th ey make both powdered Address: Baldwin Park, California 91706. shoyu and powdered tamari.

1091. Product Name: Mu Tempeh. 1095. Product Name: Westbrae Natural Miso (Light Yellow, Manufacturer’s Name: MU Tofu Shop. Mellow White, or Red).

Manufacturer’s Name: Westbrae Natural Foods (Distributor). (Importer). Made in Japan by Kikkoman Corp. Made in Canada by Shin-Mei-Do. Manufacturer’s Address: San Francisco, CA 94111. Manufacturer’s Address: 4240 Hollis St., Emeryville, CA Date of Introduction: 1985. November. 94608. Phone: (415) 658-7521. Ingredients: Water, soybeans, glucono delta lactone, Date of Introduction: 1984? emulsifi er–E471 [monoglycerides?]. New Product–Documentation: Catalog. 1984. Talk with Bob Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10.5 oz (297 gm) foil retort pouch Gerner. 1988. Jan. 30. Westbrae has dropped Miyako Oriental inside a paperboard box. Foods’s miso. Switched to that made by Shin-mei-do on How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. Denman Island, Canada. Nutrition: Per 100 gm: Calories 57, protein 5 gm, carbohydrate 1 gm, fat 4 gm, sodium 2 mg. 1096. Product Name: Mori-Nu Silken Tofu [Soft , or Firm]. New Product–Documentation: Label. 1985. “No Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. Preservatives. Keep in Cool Place–Do Not Freeze.” Photo of (Importer). Made in Japan by Morinaga Nyugyo. Japanese-Style Chilled Tofu in bowl on front panel. Recipe on Manufacturer’s Address: 5800 South Eastern Ave., Suite 270, back for Chilled Tofu (Hiyayakko). Los Angeles, CA 90040. Package with Label sent by Dr. Walter Wolf of Peoria, Date of Introduction: 1985. October. Illinois. 2000. Aug. 5. Th e “use-by” date is 12 Dec. 1994. 6 by Ingredients: Water, soybeans, glucono delta-lactone, 3 by 1¼ inches. Blue, green, black, and orange on white and monoglycerides, calcium chloride. blue. Photo of Chilled Tofu cut into 8 pieces on a rectangular Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10.5 oz (297 gm) Tetra Brik bowl with fern design, and the tip of a small fern frond atop carton. the tofu. “High protein. No cholesterol. No preservatives. How Stored: Shelf stable. Sodium free.” On the back are recipes for: Creamy corn Nutrition: Soft : Per 5.25 oz (148 gm): Calories 80, protein 7 soup. Tuna-tofu spread. Made by Kikkoman Corp. in Japan. gm, carbohydrate 4 gm, fat 4 gm. Ingredients: Water, glucono delta lactone, and calcium New Product–Documentation: Label. “No preservatives. chloride (coagulating agents). Ready to serve. Guaranteed fresh. High in Protein, High in Polyunsaturates, No Cholesterol, Low in Calories/Fat/ 1099. Kotzsch, Ronald E. 1986. Japan’s natural foods pioneer: Sodium. U.S. Patent 4,000,326.” Th is is a new Morinaga label, Mitoku’s success is due to its network of quality suppliers. with the word “Tofu” written sideways in very large letters. East West Journal. Jan. p. 18, 20-25. • Summary: Mitoku “has been and (at present) remains the 1097. Product Name: Kikkoman Tofu: Soybean Curd. larger of the two main exporters of natural foods from Japan. Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman International, Inc. With its chief competitor, Muso Shokuhin (see Sept. 1984 (Importer). Made in Japan by Kikkoman Corp. EWJ), it shares the bulk of a $14-million-a-year market for Manufacturer’s Address: San Francisco, CA 94111. superior Japanese food products. Date of Introduction: 1985. November. “Th e central offi ce of Mitoku is located in the Ingredients: Water, soybeans, glucono delta lactone, prestigious Marunouchi building, in front of Tokyo Central emulsifi er E471 [monoglycerides?]. Station... Th ere is a staff of six Japanese and two foreigners Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10.5 oz foil pouch, inside a (Christopher Dawson, a new Zealander, and Robbie paperboard box. Pasteurized. Retails for $0.79. Swinnerton, an Englishman)... How Stored: Shelf stable. “Th e founder, sole owner, and guiding spirit of Mitoku Nutrition: Per 100 gm: Calories 69, protein 6 gm, is Akiyoshi Kazama, now fi ft y-fi ve years old... A graduate of carbohydrate 1 gm, fat 5 gm, sodium 2 mg. Waseda University in Tokyo, Kazama was selected in 1956 New Product–Documentation: Label. 1985. 5.75 by 3 by to study business in the United States... He became the fi rst 1.25 inches wide. Paper. Black, orange, green, tan on cream. Japanese national to serve in the American Army following “68 Calories per serving. No Preservatives. Keep in Cool World War II. Aft er two years as an American G.I. in Korea Place–Do Not Freeze.” Photo of Japanese-Style stir fry dish and Japan, Kazama returned to Japan and settled in Tokyo. with chopsticks on front panel. Recipe on back for Tofu With He became an import-export agent for a German company Chicken. An innovative shelf-stable retorted tofu. Reprinted dealing in opticals and electronics. Th en in 1967 he got in Soyfoods Marketing. Lafayette, CA: Soyfoods Center. involved in the emerging natural foods business... Packaging magazine. 1986. Jan. p. 12. “American-style Tofu “At the time the newly formed Erewhon Trading Pack.” Company of Boston was trying to import foods directly from Japan. Its owner, macrobiotic teacher Michio Kushi, 1098. Product Name: Kikkoman Tofu: Soft Soybean Curd was introduced to Kazama by letter through a mutual friend. [Kinugoshi]. Kazama agreed to use his trade expertise to ship $3,000 Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman International, Inc. worth of high-quality Japanese foods, selected by Kushi, to

Boston... 1101. Toyo Shinpo (Soyfoods News).1986. 32 kakoku 480 “In 1969 Kazama formed a separate company to handle man cho yushutsu. Morinaga Nyûgyô sakunen no jisseki steadily increasing shipments, and called it Mitoku. Th rough [Morinaga exported 4.8 million cakes of tofu to 32 countries the 1970s Mitoku continued to grow. It remained the last year. A new company record]. March 1. p. 2. [Jap; eng+] principal supplier of Erewhon, which had become a leader of • Summary: In Japanese, the product is called LL Tofu, America’s natural foods industry. Also, it played an important meaning Long Life. Th e article refers to Morinaga’s fi rm role in the development of other companies such as Janus, silken tofu as “momen.” A photo shows a famous Japanese Laurelbrook, and Oak Feed... Th e company moved into American promoting the tofu as “Guaranteed fresh, no the European market as well, becoming a major supplier of preservatives, ready to serve.” Lima of Belgium, Sunwheel of England, and other major distributors... 1102. Product Name: Hinoichi Soy Drink [Plain, Original “When in the fall of 1981 Erewhon fi nally collapsed, (Dairylike), Mocha, or Chocolate]. Mitoku was its largest creditor and took a $300,000 loss. Manufacturer’s Name: House Foods & Yamauchi, Inc. Erewhon’s demise nearly destroyed Mitoku... Mitoku has Manufacturer’s Address: 526 Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, CA become a major supplier to Westbrae, Great Eastern Sun, 90013. Phone: 213-624-3615. Tree of Life, and the reborn Erewhon, all vigorous American Date of Introduction: 1986. April. fi rms... Ingredients: Mocha: Water, whole soybeans, corn sweetener, “Over the last fi ve years, Mitoku’s annual sales have corn oil, soy oil, coff ee extract, cocoa, caramel color, mono grown at about 20 percent a year. During the 1984-85 fi scal and diglycerides (prevents oil separation), sodium citrate year gross sales were about $7.5 million. During that period (emulsifying salt), calcium carbonate (calcium source), salt, Mitoku bought some 300 food products from eighty-three dipotassium phosphate (regulates acidity), carrageenan producers... It sold to fi ft y-six customers around the world, (stabilizing salt [sic]), artifi cial and natural fl avors. including ten in North America and about thirty in Europe... Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Pure-Pak cartons, with 3-week “Just this past month, Mitoku has introduced a line of shelf life. especially high quality products under its own label.” How Stored: Refrigerated. Th e author and Mr. Kazama visited a number of Mitoku’s Nutrition: Per 6 fl . oz Mocha: Calories 150, protein 4 gm, suppliers. Descriptions are given of Mansan Company Ltd. carbohydrates 25 gm, fat 4 gm, sodium 95 mg, cholesterol 0. (making tamari and soybean miso since 1895), Sendai Miso New Product–Documentation: Ad in Rafu Shimpo and/ Shoyu Co. Ltd. (the Sasaki family which runs the company or Kashu Mainichi. 1986. In Japanese. “Hinoichi Soy Drink. started making miso in 1853), Fukaya Honten Shoyu (a small New product. Healthful beverage fresh and delicious.” maker of organic shoyu). Talk with Harry Tanikawa. 1986. Nov. 15. Th e product was launched in April 1986 in Pure Pak cartons. Th ese 1100. San-J International, Inc. 1986. Seasoned by experience. four fl avors, targeted only to the Asian-American market, Traditionally brewed shoyu soy sauce, tamari wheat-free soy are scheduled for nationwide distribution in a foil pouch sauce, all-purpose teriyaki seasoning & marinade (Ad). East sometime in 1987. Labels. 1987. Pure Pak pint cartons for West Journal. Feb. Inside rear cover. each fl avor. Th ree or four colors on white (Blue, red, and • Summary: Ad copyright 1985. Shows the new labels for beige for Original; Dark and light brown, red and peach for tamari, shoyu, and teriyaki seasoning and marinade in full mocha; Chocolate brown, red and beige for chocolate). On color. “When the Sato family founded San-Jirushi in 1804, the side panel: “Enjoy Hinoichi Soy Drink: a delicious non-dairy traditional recipe for tamari was already over 500 years old. alternative.” Note: In the Plain product, the only ingredients Today, seven generations later, San-J still faithfully follows the are water and soybeans. Per 6 fl . oz. serving it contains 85 same exacting art of natural brewing. Leafl et. 1985. “Seasoned calories, 6 gm protein, and 80 mg or Visit HFYI plant in Los by Experience.” “Although there are nearly 3,000 shoyu Angeles. John Yamauchi is in charge of this product. On sale manufacturers in Japan, there are less than 20 companies still at Yaohan Japanese supermarket in Los Angeles. 1988. Oct. producing genuine wheat-free Tamari soy sauce.” 23. For 32 oz. sizes: Plain retails for $1.19 and mocha for “Th e proud San-Jirushi logo was inspired by the Sato $1.29. For 16 oz.: Original retails for $0.59 and mocha for Family’s history in shipping. Th ree horizontal lines represent $0.69. the three great rivers of Kiso, Ibi, and Nagara, which fl ow to the nearby Bay of Ise. 1103. Hulm, Trevor. 1986. County gets big soy milk plant “Every year the All Japan Association of Shoyu Brewers [American Soy Products, a $10 million joint venture of Eden holds exhibitions for soy product manufacturers. And Foods, Kawasho International (USA), Marusan Co. Ltd., each year San-Jirushi is recognized for its superior quality.” Muso Co. Ltd., and Seikensha Co. Ltd.]. Ann Arbor News Address: Colonial Heights, Virginia. (Michigan). July 30. p. A1, A4. • Summary: “A Clinton [Michigan]-based company has

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 250 clinched a $10 million deal with four Japanese joint venturers Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Products. to produce soy milk in Michigan for the North American Manufacturer’s Address: 4515 Centinela Ave., Los Angeles, market. Th e company, Eden Foods Inc., and its partners have CA 90066. Phone: 213-822-2939. almost completed construction of a manufacturing plant at Date of Introduction: 1986. Saline. Production is expected to start in September, with an New Product–Documentation: Visit to Yaohan supermarket initial staff of 35.” in Los Angeles. 1988. Oct. 23. All tofu products stocked Eden Foods’ president Michael Potter estimates that Eden are made by this company and House Foods & Yamauchi. presently has 38-40% of the $20 million a year soymilk retail Talk with Tom Uyehara. 1988. Oct. 24. Th ese products were consumer market in the USA. launched in 1986. “Potter, 36, will be chairman and chief executive offi cer of the new company, American Soy Products Inc. Th e 1107. Product Name: Edamame: Soy Beans. four Japanese companies involved in the joint venture are Manufacturer’s Name: International Marine Products, Inc. Kawasho International (USA), Marusan Co. LTD., Muso Co. (Importer-Distributor). Imported from Taiwan. Ltd. and Seikensha Co. Ltd. Manufacturer’s Address: Importer: 500 East 7th Street, Los “Under terms of the agreement, Eden Foods will Angeles, California 90014. Phone: 213-680-0497. handle product marketing, sales and distribution; Kawasho Date of Introduction: 1986. will oversee administration and fi nancing; Marusan will Ingredients: Soybeans. be responsible for product production; and Muso will Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1.1 lb (17.6 oz) plastic bag. Retails coordinate international sales. Seikensha has patents on key for $2.99 (1997/02, Lafayette, California). pieces of the manufacturing equipment and is supplying the How Stored: Frozen. processing equipment for the plant. Nutrition: Per 100 gm.: Calories 120, calories from fat 50, “Th e joint venturers have already spent $2.3 million on total fat 6 gm (9% daily value; saturated fat 1 gm), cholesterol the factory and land at Saline. Another $4.3 million has been 0 mg, sodium 0 mg, total carbohydrate 8 gm (dietary fi ber invested in the latest equipment available in the industry, 9 gm [36%], sugars 0 gm), protein 10 gm. Vitamin A 0%, with a $700,000 outlay for start-up costs. Th e company has calcium 6%, vitamin C 40%, iron 8%. Percent daily values are committed $1.8 million in marketing funds and $700,000 in based on a 2,000 calorie diet. working capital.” New Product–Documentation: Product with Label “Th e new plant is expected to consume 85,000 bushels of purchased at Open Sesame in Lafayette, California. 1997. soybeans and 8,000 bushels of barley annually, almost all of Feb. 3. Label: 7 by 10 inches. Green, yellow, and white. Th e which will be obtained in Michigan.” entire front the plastic bag is printed with a color photo of Note 1. Th is is the earliest document seen (Aug. 2002) fresh green vegetable soybeans. Text on the back panel reads: concerning American Soy Products or this new American No chemical used. Healthy food. Easy to cook. Good for soymilk plant. A photo shows the soymilk equipment. snacks & appetizer. Aff ordable. Talk with Koji at International Marine Products, a Japanese-run company in Los Angeles. 1104. Product Name: San-J Traditionally Brewed Shoyu. Th is product was introduced about 10 years ago and has been Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. sold continuously since that time. Manufacturer’s Address: Colonial Heights, VA 23834. Date of Introduction: 1986. July. 1108. Hymowitz, Th eodore. 1987. Introduction of the New Product–Documentation: Natural Foods Merchandiser. soybean to Illinois. Economic Botany 41(1):28-32. Feb. [44 1986. July. p. 42. Gold medalist in 7th Annual Natural Foods ref] Merchandiser merchandising awards. • Summary: In 1851 the soybean was introduced to Illinois (via California), and thence to the rest of the Corn Belt. Th e 1105. Mitoku USA. 1986. Supersoy: Original soy drink. All introduction came about through a series of very unusual natural (Ad). East West. Nov. Inside rear cover. circumstances. In Dec. 1850 the barque Auckland left Hong • Summary: Th is full-page glossy color ad shows two red Kong for San Francisco carrying sugar and other general straws in a class of soymilk. “Made from whole soybeans merchandise. “About 500 miles off the coast of Japan the ship with brown rice. Non dairy. Lactose free. No cholesterol. No came across a Japanese junk fl oundering [foundering] on added oil. 40% less fat. No added salt. 80% less sodium. No the sea. Th e [Japanese] crew, consisting of 17 persons, was refi ned sugar. No preservatives. 6 fl oz pouch pack. 6.7 fl oz removed from the junk and taken on board the Auckland, box with straw. Convenient 16.8 oz family size.” Address: 292 which continued on to San Francisco. Th e Japanese took Washington Ave. Ext., Albany, New York 12203. Phone: 518- aboard the Auckland some of their belongings and a box 456-8006. containing various items such as a log, chart, compass, gold and silver Japanese coins, etc. Th e box was presented to Capt. 1106. Product Name: Ganmodoki, Abura Age. Jennings.

“On 4 March 1851 the Auckland arrived at the port of San seeds from A.H. Ernst. His evaluation of soybeans as a Francisco. Th e Japanese were not permitted to leave the ship potential new crop was amazingly astute...” (See T.V.P. 1855). and were kept in quarantine until 16 March” because of the “Th us, by the end of 1854 the soybean seeds brought by possibility of spreading disease. Dr. Benjamin Franklin Edwards in 1851 from San Francisco By coincidence, waiting for a passenger ship to take him to Alton, Illinois, were multiplied, disseminated, and back to Alton, Illinois, via the Panama overland route, was evaluated by farmers throughout the United States.” Dr. Benjamin Franklin Edwards, a wealthy physician from In 1854, when Commodore Matthew Perry’s Expedition Alton who had come to California in search of gold. “At port opened Japan to western trade, the expedition’s surgeon, Dr. while waiting for his ship to take on provisions he probably Daniel Green, observed that the Japanese grew a particular examined the quarantined Japanese on the Auckland and kind of bean called the Japan pea (i.e. soybean) (Perry 1856, received soybeans, called Japan peas, as a gift (Moore’s Rural vol. 2, p. 85). In mid-1854 the expedition’s agriculturist, Dr. New Yorker 1853). Th e next day [March 16] the Japanese James Morrow, obtained soybean seeds and sent them to were permitted to go ashore.” Dr. Edwards left San Francisco the Commissioner of Patents, which distributed the seeds to on 15 March 1851. farmers. “Th us from 1855 onward it is diffi cult to distinguish “On shore, because of their unusual dress and country of between soybean seed sources in farmers’ reports. Did their origin, the Japanese became instant celebrities” and were even soybean seeds originate from the Illinois accession or the guests at a masquerade ball. For details see the following 1851 Perry Expedition; perhaps they grew soybeans from both San Francisco newspapers: Daily Alta California March 5, p. sources.” 2, col. 5. Evening Picayune March 5, p. 2. col. 5; March 17, Note 1. Th is document contains the earliest date seen for p. 2, col. 5. San Francisco Daily Herald March 5, p. 3, col. 2; soybeans in California (4 March 1851). It also contains the March 18, p. 2, col. 6. earliest date seen for soybeans in Illinois (29 April 1851), or “On April 29, 1851 Dr. Benjamin Franklin Edwards the cultivation of soybeans in Illinois (summer 1851) (one returned to Alton, Illinois carrying soybean seeds in his of two documents). And it contains the earliest date seen personal possessions.” [Note that he took a fi rst-class ship for soybeans in Iowa, or the cultivation of soybeans in Iowa to the Isthmus of Panama, went overland by pack mule, (1852). then caught another fi rst-class ship that took him up the Note 2. A longer version of this story by Robert Lee Mississippi River to St. Louis, Missouri–a 6-week trip. Th e Zimmer titled “Scientist Turns Detective, Solves Soybean fi rst transcontinental railroad, with its western terminus in Mystery,” appeared as an Associated Press Wire (14 Aug. Sacramento, was not completed until 14 years later, in May 1987), which was widely syndicated. 1869]. Note 3. Talk with Ted Hymowitz. 1994. May 29. Benjamin In Illinois, Dr. Edwards gave the seeds to Alton Franklin Edwards was a founder of Shurtleff College in Alton, businessman Mr. John H. Lea, who planted them in his Illinois. Address: Crop Evolution Lab., Dep. of Agronomy, garden in the summer of 1851 (A.H. Ernst. 1853. Journal of Univ. of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, Urbana, IL 61801. the New York State Agricultural Society). Th ese events took place 3 years prior to the famous introduction of soybeans 1109. Product Name: Stir Fruity (Non-Fermented Non- from Japan to the United States by the Perry Expedition. Dairy Tofu Yogurt) [Lemon Chiff on, Strawberry, Raspberry, Aft er Lea harvested his soybean seeds, he distributed Blueberry, Black Cherry, Peach, Spiced Apple, or Piña them to various places. Mr. J.J. [sic, J.R.] Jackson of Colada]. Davenport, Iowa, wrote in 1854 that he had grown soybeans Manufacturer’s Name: Azumaya Inc. in 1852 and 1853; he was the fi rst person to report growing Manufacturer’s Address: 1575 Burke Ave., San Francisco, CA soybeans in Iowa, now a major soybean producing state. 94124. Phone: 415-285-8500. Since there was no local horticultural society in Alton, Date of Introduction: 1987. March. Illinois, Lea sent soybean seed to the Cincinnati Horticultural Ingredients: Blueberry: Silken tofu (water, soybeans, calcium Society. In 1852 Mr. Andrew H. Ernst, a well-known lactate), blueberries, pure cane [white] sugar, starch, kosher horticulturist, planted and multiplied these seeds in his gelatin, natural fl avors, citric acid (for fl avor), partially nursery, “Spring Garden” near Cincinnati, Ohio [3 citations]. hydrogenated vegetable oil (soybean, cottonseed), salt. Aft er the 1852 harvest, Ernst sent soybean seeds to the Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 6 oz plastic cup. Retails for $0.65- New York State Agricultural Society, the Massachusetts 69 (1987). Horticultural Society, and the U.S. Commissioner of Patents. How Stored: Refrigerated. Th ose organizations sent soybean seed to dozens of farmers Nutrition: Blueberry: Per 6 oz.: 160 calories, protein 6 gm, throughout the United States. In 1855 “T.V.P.” of Mount carbohydrates 27 gm, fat 3 gm, sodium 60 mg. Provides 10% Carmel, Ohio, reported that he had cultivated soybeans of the RDA for calcium and 8% for protein and iron. “for the last three years and have disseminated [them] from New Product–Documentation: Interview with Travis Canada to Texas.” “Most probably he received his soybean Burgeson. 1987. April 9. Shipped to warehouses on March 24.

Labels. 1988. April. Copyright 1986. Two colors plus black on sorbate to maintain freshness.” Th e foil lid (purple on white) plastic cups. “New! Creamy tofu with real fruit. Stir Fruity is a reads: “Stir Fruity. No cholesterol. Low calorie. Dairy free. nutritious, all-natural light meal or snack. Only 160 calories. Creamy tofu treat. Low sodium.” Lactose free. No cholesterol. Low fat. Low sodium. High 1993. June 19. Lucky supermarket in Lafayette now sells calcium. Real fruit. No preservatives or artifi cial sweeteners.” about 10-12 cases of Stir Fruity per week in the produce San Francisco Business Times. 1987. May 4. “Made case. Th e nearby thermometer reads 42ºF. At nearby Safeway entirely of real fruit and creamy silken tofu.” A light and supermarket, the Stir Fruity is also in the produce case, next creamy blend of silken tofu and real fruit chunks; Soyfoods to rhubarb, but not on a bed of ice. Flavors: Mandarin orange, Center product evaluation. 1987. May 9. By far the best soy black cherry, raspberry, and strawberry. yogurt we have tasted. Excellent. Our favorite fl avors were 1993. Nov. Lucky supermarket in Lafayette, California, lemon, blueberry, and apple. Comments: Like the fl avor. stops carrying Stir Fruity. Th ey say that sales are too slow. Dislike the use of cane sugar and gelatin, excess wheying Talk with person from Azumaya. 1996. June 17. Stir Fruity off , a little chunky in some fl avors. At $0.65 for 6 oz ($0.108/ was discontinued about 2 years ago. It didn’t sell well enough. oz) it is considerably more expensive than most of its dairy Azumaya will soon becoming out with a Tofu Dessert in two counterparts. Lucerne low fat is $0.061/oz (56% as costly), fl avors (Sweet, and Almond). Dannon low fat is $0.071/oz (66% as costly), Yoplait high fat is $0.107/oz. 1110. Product Name: Hot & Spicy Szechuan All Purpose Doreen Lee. 1987. Adweek East. May 4. Spot in Food Sauce. & Beverage Marketing (NY). 1987. June. Spot in Soya Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. Newsletter. 1987. 1(3):6. Th e product was on the market for Manufacturer’s Address: 2880 Sprouse Dr., Richmond, VA only a few weeks, then was withdrawn because of shelf-life 23231. problems and never re-launched, despite huge development Date of Introduction: 1987. March. costs. Advertised as “California’s answer to yogurt.” Ingredients: San-J tamari soy sauce, water, wine, honey, rice Note: To make this product a mixture of hot soymilk, vinegar, apple vinegar, mustard, red pepper, garlic, ginger, gelatin, and a little calcium lactate is homogenized then run kuzu, black & white pepper, ground sesame seeds, Japanese into cups, where it is cooled until it sets up. Th ere is really no [ume] plum concentrate, xanthan gum, Chinese peppercorn. silken tofu in the product, and the coagulant is really gelatin. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 5 and 10 oz bottles. As of 1988 most of the product is said by a reliable source to How Stored: Shelf stable. contain preservatives, which are not yet listed on the label. New Product–Documentation: Ad in Vegetarian Times. At one point Azumaya came quite close to licensing rights to Sept. p. 11. “Simply Szechuan. Th e exotic tastes of Szechuan the product to Kraft Foods. Th e radio ads never were aired. cuisine have been deliciously married in this versatile easy- Th e product was in stores only briefl y. Th ere were persistent to-use sauce. Awaken your palate with San-J. Since some like contamination problems in production at various points in it hot!” Spot in Vegetarian Times. 1987. Oct. p. 63. It is wheat the process. If it were produced clean, it would have a 6-8 free. Leafl et. 1987. Front and back. “Szechuan cuisine is hot!” week shelf life. Th ey installed a quasi clean room, but they never got it under control, though the counts were oft en 1111. Burgeson, Travis. 1987. Stir Fruity (Interview). less than 10 since the product was an ideal culture medium. SoyaScan Notes. May 8. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Travis Burgeson was in charge of quality control. It was Soyfoods Center. a disaster. Bill left for Hawaii and they agreed to take the • Summary: Stir Fruity represents the fi rst real change in the product off the market. yogurt case of supermarkets on the West Coast since Dannon Leafl et. 1989, dated. “Cook your way to the Caribbean. put fruit in the bottom of yogurt. Th ere are basically three Free recipes inside.” 3.5 by 5.5 inches. 8 panels. Full color reasons people do not like most dairy yogurt: it is too sour, with photos. Inside text reads: “Guess what’s in this creamy, it contains cholesterol, and it contains lactose. Stir Fruity has fresh fruity treat. It’s not yogurt. It’s not cholesterol. It’s not a none of these problems. Various people were asked to taste lot of calories. Guess again. It’s tofu like you’ve never tasted.” Stir Fruity, then asked if they would buy the product, 86% Create your own original recipe using Stir Fruity and win a of yogurt users said either defi nitely or probably, and 65% of 7-day cruise for 2 to the Caribbean. non-yogurt users said either defi nitely or probably. 1990. Jan. 20. Free samples of 6 fl avors of Stir Fruity Th e key to their promotional commercial (developed are being given away at Lucky supermarket in Lafayette, by John Crawford based on Bob Marley’s reggae song titled California. It is sold in racks on a huge bed of ice near the “Stir it Up”) will be to be humorous with tofu, to make it produce case with the freshly squeezed juices and sliced friendly. Th ey admit: It’s not yogurt. Its also non-dairy and fresh fruits, not in the dairy case. Th e price of a 6 oz. carton not sour. Th ey now to pitch it to the black community where is $0.67 versus about $0.45 for dairy yogurts. Th e ingredients lactose intolerance is high. Calcium lactate is the coagulant. are the same except that the last ingredient now is “potassium Jofu product quality has improved over the past year. Jofu

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 253 has the fruit stirred in, where Stir Fruity has the fruit on the states: “Kikkoman fi rm tofu fi ts today’s healthy lifestyle. It bottom. One problem is that Stir Fruity is not as white as means healthy profi ts, too. A color photo shows a package of would be ideal. Address: Azumaya Inc., 1575 Burke Ave., San Kikkoman Firm Tofu. “One serving of Kikkoman Firm Tofu Francisco, California 94124. has: 50% fewer calories and 40% less fat than a quarter pound cooked hamburger; 50% fewer calories than 1 cup of cottage 1112. Dixon, Jim. 1987. Tofu and tortillas on the line: Ota cheese; 35% more protein than 1 large egg... Tofu Co. Willamette Week (Portland, Oregon). May 14. “Kikkoman Firm Tofu is packed in a special foil pouch • Summary: Th ird generation members of the Ota clan and pasteurized to protect its fresh fl avor and delicate texture. continue a business started in 1918 [sic, 1911]. Aileen Ota “Special Features: High protein, low calorie; NO says their tofu retails for $0.75/lb. Note: Th is is the earliest cholesterol & NO sodium; NO preservatives; creamy, known tofu company in Oregon. fi rm consistency; helpful recipe information on the package; competitively priced; made with Kikkoman’s 1113. Economic World.1987. Miyako mainstay of miso uncompromising standard of quality.” market. June. p. 46. Labels. 1988. 5.75 by 3 by 1.25 inch paper box. Firm is • Summary: Miyako Oriental Foods was established in 1976 red, black, orange, and green on white. Front panel has a as a joint venture owned 65% by Mutual Trading Co. and photo of tofu in a Chinese-style stir-fried dish. “High Protein. 35% by Yamajirushi Jozo Co. Ltd. of Tokyo. Nearly 3/4 of its No Cholesterol. No Preservatives. Sodium Free. For stir-frys, revenues ($1 million in 1986) come from the Los Angeles salads, desserts... Keep in a cool place. Do not freeze.” Back area Oriental community. Miyako currently makes 50 tons/ panel contains a stir-fry recipe for Chicken & Vegetables month of miso and has a 50% share of the U.S. market. Th e with Tofu. Soft is blue, green, orange, and black on white. yen’s appreciation has helped business. In 1986 Miyako had Front panel has a photo of cubes of chilled tofu on a square sales of $1 million; Vice president Teruo Shimizu anticipates dish. Recipes on back for Creamy Corn Soup and Tuna-Tofu a 20% growth in sales in 1987. His company would eventually Spread. like to have a plant on the East Coast of the United States. A Talk with Art Mio of Morinaga. 1987. Dec. 7. Kikkoman photo shows three of Miyako’s products. Address: New York. is selling their new tofu, which is much better quality than their original product, to Azumaya for distribution. It is sold 1114. Product Name: Kikkoman Tofu: Soybean Curd (In in the produce section, where most of America’s tofu is still Retort Pouch) [Firm, or Soft ]. sold. But the nutritional composition statement is curious. Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman International, Inc. Th e fat content is much higher and the carbohydrate content (Importer). Made in Japan by Kikkoman Corp. much lower than would be expected from a product made Manufacturer’s Address: 50 California St., Suite 3600, San from whole soybeans. Soyfoods Center product evaluation. Francisco, CA 94111. Phone: 415-956-7750. 1988 May 1. Comparing Azumaya, Mori-Nu, and Kikkoman Date of Introduction: 1987. August. tofu, we preferred them in that order. Kikkoman’s tofu is Ingredients: Water, soybeans, glucono delta lactone and much better than its original product launched in 1985, calcium chloride (coagulating agents). which we found inedible. Talk with Terumitsu Hattori, VP of Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10.5 oz (297 gm) foil retort pouch R&D, of Kikkoman, San Francisco. 1988. May 25. Th is tofu inside a paperboard box. was relaunched in August 1987. Recipe booklet. 1988. June. How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. “Kikkoman fi rm tofu presents recipes for today’s healthy Nutrition: Per 5.25 oz. fi rm: Calories 100, protein 9 gm, lifestyle.” Contains 5 recipes: Savory vegetable dip. Extra carbohydrates 1 gm, fat 7 gm, sodium 0 mg. Soft : Calories 90, creamy beef stroganoff (with 3/4 lb steak). No meat stuff ed protein 7 gm, carbohydrates 1 gm, fat 6 gm. shells. Chile corn bread. Molded pink lady. New Product–Documentation: Spot in Food Processing. Poster displayed at Yaohan department store in Los 1987. June. p. 87. “Tofu shelf-stable in retort pouches.” A large Angeles. 1988. Oct. 23. 11½ by 21½ inches. “Kikkoman Firm color photo shows the package. Tofu.” Full color. Shows the package, product on a dish, and a Temptingly Easy Recipes for Kikkoman Tofu. 1987. May. veggie-meat stir fry. Six panels. 8½ by 11 inches. Full color. Contains recipes for Talk with Morinaga Nutritional Foods. 1994. March Hunan Pork & Tofu Stir Fry, Simple Skillet Sukiyaki, Salad 18. Morinaga in Tokyo is now packaging this product for Nicoise with Tofu, Deluxe Chicken & Fruit Slaw, Glazed Kikkoman. Th e fi rst batch arrived in the USA in Nov. 1993. Meatloaf Special, Hot & Sour Soup with Tofu, Chocolate- Banana Pie, and Orange Smoothie. 1115. Product Name: San-J Tamari-Lite (Low Sodium). Brochure. 1987. May. “Tofu.” 8½ by 11 inches, 2 sided. Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. (Importer). Th e front shows a stylish black plate of tofu cubes, meat, and Made in Japan by San-Jirushi Corp. vegetable stir fry. In the background is a cake of Kikkoman Manufacturer’s Address: 2880 Sprouse Dr., Richmond, VA tofu partly cut into cubes. All is set in a black table. Th e back 23231. Phone: 800-446-5500.

Date of Introduction: 1987. September. Mori-Nu technology solve the problem of tofu freshness.” Ingredients: Soybean meal, water, salt, alcohol. Shows packs of silken fi rm and soft on a wooden table in Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 5 oz dispenser, 10 oz bottle, and front of fruits and vegetables. p. 76-77. “Th e Miracle Food in 20 oz bottle. a Miracle Package,” with recipes for Chinese Unchicken Salad How Stored: Shelf stable. and Pumpkin Pie. New Product–Documentation: Interview with John On 10 Dec. 1988 this product is on sale in a basket at Perelman. 1987. Sept. 15. He notes that Erewhon (made by Living Foods in Berkeley for $0.79 per 10.5 oz. Ad (8 by 11 Kagisa), Arrowhead Mills, and Eden Foods still misuse the inches, color) in Natural Foods Merchandiser. 1988. Nov. term “tamari.” Now Westbrae does too. Ad in East West. p. 28. And 1989. April. p. 24. Also in Whole Foods. Nov. p. 1988. June. p. 23. “Pretty amazing stuff . 25% less sodium. 45. “A healthy market. Mori-Nu off ers you higher profi ts Rich taste. Wheat free.” Also run as a full-page color ad and increased sales with: Beautiful, full-color advertising in Vegetarian Times. 1988. Sept. Inside front cover. And in the following magazines: Prevention (regional), Health Oct. p. 30. Interview with John Perelman. 1990. Jan. 25. (regional), 50 Plus (regional), Heart Corps, California Senior Th is product is still imported from Japan in drums and Citizens, Delicious (national), Weight Watchers (regional), bottled in Richmond; the company has not yet installed its Vegetarian Times (national), Southern California Senior desalinization equipment in America, and probably won’t Life, and more...” Ad in Vegetarian Times. 1989. Jan. p. 7, and until at least 1991. April p. 5. “Exercise your right to eat better with Mori-Nu.” Full-page, full color. With recipe for Fabulous Strawberry 1116. Product Name: Mori-Nu Silken Firm Tofu: Soybean Fluff . Curd. Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. 1117. Product Name: Mori-Nu Silken Soft Tofu: Soybean (Importer). Made in Japan by Morinaga Milk Co. Ltd. Curd. Manufacturer’s Address: 5800 South Eastern Ave., Suite 270, Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. Los Angeles, CA 90040. (Importer). Made in Japan by Morinaga Milk Co. Ltd. Date of Introduction: 1987. November. Manufacturer’s Address: 5800 South Eastern Ave., Suite 270, Ingredients: Water, soybeans, isolated soy protein, Los Angeles, CA 90040. Phone: 213-728-4325. gluconolactone, calcium chloride. Date of Introduction: 1987. November. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10.5 oz (297 gm) Tetra Brik Ingredients: Water, soybeans, gluconolactone, calcium Aseptic carton. chloride. How Stored: Shelf stable. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10.5 oz (297 gm) Tetra Brik Nutrition: Per ½ package: Calories 90, protein 10 gm, Aseptic carton. carbohydrate 4 gm, fat 4 gm, sodium 50 mg. Protein is 15% of How Stored: Shelf stable. USRDA. Nutrition: Per ½ package: Calories 80, protein 7 gm, New Product–Documentation: New Label. 1987. Shows carbohydrate 4 gm, fat 4 gm, sodium 10 mg. Protein is 10% of a sun in clouds with three white squares. Colors are blue, USRDA. green, and red on white. Recipe: Dill Cucumber Dip. “Our New Product–Documentation: New Label. 1987. Shows a Guarantee. If you are not completely satisfi ed with Mori-Nu sun in clouds with three white squares. Colors are red, green, Tofu, we will replace the product. Send the empty carton, and yellow on white. Recipe: Creamy Banana Date Shake. store name, location, your name and address to Morinaga... Ad. 1987. East West. Nov. p. 84. “Free Tofu Recipes. Discover For tofu recipes: Send self-addressed stamped envelope to Mori-Nu Tofu. Always tastes just made.” Ad in Natural the above address. Ad. 1987. East West. Nov. p. 84. “Free Tofu Foods Merchandiser. 1987. Dec. p. 4 and 1988. Jan. p. 49. Recipes. Discover Mori-Nu Tofu. Always tastes just made.” “Revolutionary Tofu. Healthier Profi ts with Long-Life Mori- Ad in Natural Foods Merchandiser. Dec. p. 4. “Revolutionary Nu Tofu. Guaranteed Quality, Consistent Taste. As advertised Tofu. Healthier Profi ts with Long-Life Mori-Nu Tofu. in East West Journal, Vegetarian Times, Delicious, New Age, Guaranteed Quality, Consistent Taste. As advertised in East Mother Jones, Yoga Journal... Guaranteed quality for 10 West Journal, Vegetarian Times, Delicious, New Age, Mother months without preservatives or irradiation.” Jones, Yoga Journal... Guaranteed quality for 10 months Ad. 1988. “Lessons in Tofu” Th is striking full-page color without preservatives or irradiation.” ad ran in Vegetarian Times (Feb. p. 7, April p. 11), East West Ad in Natural Foods Merchandiser. 1988. March. p. (Feb., March p. 54), Delicious, Bestways (Feb. p. 23, March p. 60. “Revolutionary Tofu. Long-life aseptic package adds 25, April p. 42, May p. 15), New Age Journal (March/April p. convenience to guaranteed quality and consistent taste.” 11), etc. Contains a recipe for Strawberry Pudding Fluff and Shows two packs of Mori-Nu next to an ordinary water-pack: an ad for Healthy Times. “Made fi rst, then packed in water (Ordinary). Ad in Palate Leafl et. 1988. April. Mori-Nu presents: Lessons in tofu. 6 Pleasers. 1988. Vol. 6. June. p. 61. “Revolutionary Tofu. Let panels with info and 5 recipes. Leafl et. 1988. 8½ by 11 inches.

“Revolutionary Tofu. Long-life aseptic tofu packaging adds 1. Kikkoman International Inc., San Francisco. Started convenience to guaranteed quality and consistent taste. Don’t in 1957, it wholesales food sauces. 2. JFC International let the tofu revolution pass you by.” With large color photo of Inc., South San Francisco. Started in 1969, it imports food 2 packs Morinaga Tofu in front of fruits and vegetables. Four products, mostly from Japan. 3. Pacifi c Trading (Inc.), Los page color brochure. 1988. Aug. “Shake up your day with Angeles. Started in 1980, it imports food products. Th e parent Mori-Nu. Whip up delicious nutrition with cholesterol-free company, Kikkoman Corporation, Noda, Chiba, Japan, Mori-Nu Tofu and your favorite fruit.” Ad in Natural Foods started in 1917. It is a manufacturer of soy sauce, plum wine, Merchandiser. 1988. Aug. p. 65, and Sept. p. 94. 1989. Feb. p. rice wine, worcestershire sauce, etc. 15. “Shake up profi ts!” Shows a Mori-Nu tofu & fruit shake. Yuzaburo Mogi, born 1926, married, active in Japan. Also in Whole Foods. Sept. p. 13. Oct. p. 41. Ad in Vegetarian Graduated from Columbia College, New York, NY. Times. 1988. Sept. p. 3. Oct. p. 14. “Shake off cholesterol.” Shows a Mori-Nu tofu and fruit shake. Ad in Vegetarian 1120. Product Name: Sushi Agé. Times. 1988. Nov. p. 29. “Cholesterol-free holidays are as easy Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Products Inc. as pie.” Large color photo of a no-cholesterol pumpkin pie, Manufacturer’s Address: 4515 Centinela Ave., Los Angeles, with recipe. CA 90066. Date of Introduction: 1987. 1118. Taste (Kikkoman, Japan).1987--. Serial/periodical. New Product–Documentation: Visit to Yaohan supermarket Tokyo: Kikkoman Corp. Vol. 1, No. 1. Nov. 1987. Quarterly. in Los Angeles. 1988. Oct. 23. All tofu products stocked are Full color. made by this company and House Foods & Yamauchi. Talk • Summary: Subtitled “A quarterly intercultural forum for with Tom Uyehara. 1988. Oct. 24. Th is product was launched the exchange of ideas on food.” It will highlight traditional in 1987, the same year the company was incorporated. Japanese cuisine and present the many innovative dishes that have successfully combined Oriental and Western cooking 1121. Product Name: Hinoichi Soy Drink [Natural concepts. For further information, contact Kenzaburo Mogi (Dairylike), Mocha, or Chocolate]. of the Foreign Operations Dept. Kaichiro Someya is General Manufacturer’s Name: House Foods & Yamauchi, Inc. Mgr. of the Foreign Operations Dept. Address: 1-25 Kanda Manufacturer’s Address: 526 Stanford Ave., Los Angeles, CA Nishiki-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 101, Japan. Phone: 03-233- 90013. Phone: 213-624-3615. 5610. Date of Introduction: 1987. Ingredients: Water, whole soybeans, barley malt, pearl barley, 1119. Dun & Bradstreet. 1987. Report on Kikkoman Foods kombu (seaweed), sea salt. Inc. 5 p. Dec. 31. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 6 fl uid oz (180 ml) foil retort • Summary: Chief executive: Shinichi Sugiyama, born 1928. pouch. Plant: 300,000 square feet in 1 story concrete block building. How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. Location: Walworth, Wisconsin. SIC Number 20 35. Worth: Nutrition: Per 6 fl . oz. Natural: Calories 120, protein 6 gm, $31.49 million. Employs: 95. Trend: Up. Total assets: $41.7 carbohydrates 10 gm, fat 6 gm, sodium 100 mg, cholesterol 0. million. Percentages of U.S. RDA: Protein 10%, calcium 6%, iron 6%. History. Incorporated in Wisconsin 10 March 1972. 100% New Product–Documentation: Label. 1988. 4 inches by 6.25 of capital stock is owned by parent company. Th e parent inches. Foil pouch. Natural is blue, red, green, and white. company has 21 subsidiaries in Japan and the USA including: Mocha and chocolate are brown, red, green, and white. Front

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 256 panel shows a glass full of the product with a straw in it set in (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. March 4 and 10. Conducted by a bed of ice with a few green leaves behind. William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. • Summary: Mr. Kanai recalls that the brochure describing 1122. Product Name: Kikkoman Teriyaki Baste & Glaze, how to make miso and amazake using Cold Mountain Koji Teriyaki Barbecue Marinade & Sauce, Stir-Fry Sauce, Steak was printed in 1976, the same year the Miyako factory began. Sauce, Sweet & Sour Sauce, Tonkatsu Sauce. Th ey immediately started to sell the koji, using the brochure. Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman Foods. Miyako is owned 60% by Mutual Trading Co. and 40% by Manufacturer’s Address: Walworth, Wisconsin. Yamajirushi Miso Co., a joint venture. Date of Introduction: 1987. Mutual Trading Co. started to import Amazake from New Product–Documentation: Duxbury. 1987. Food Japan to American in about 1968. He thinks they were the Processing. May. p. 70-71. Kikkoman Oriental Cooking. fi rst company to do so. If that is correct, this would have been 1989. p. 5. Shows a color photo of the Kikkoman Teriyaki the fi rst amazake sold commercially in the USA. Th e product Marinade and Sauce, Teriyaki Baste & Glaze, Stir-Fry Sauce, was imported frozen in non-aseptic polyethylene bags. At the and Sweet & Sour Sauce. same time they imported frozen natto, and non-frozen miso and Hamanatto. Mutual Trading presently imports amazake 1123. Tsukamoto, Mary; Pinkerton, Elizabeth. 1987. We in 6.3 oz (180 ml) cans. It is ready to drink. His amazake is the People: A story of internment in America. Elk Grove, made in Japan by Morinaga, the confectionery company, not California: Laguna Publishers. x + 324 p. Illust. Index. 22 cm. the milk company. It is a real amazake, not a sake kasu type. • Summary: Th is is the story of the internment of Japanese- Nishimoto also imports amazake in 6.3 oz tins; the brand Americans in concentration camps during World War II. is Imuraya. North American Food in San Francisco, a sister On 19 Feb. 1942, shortly aft er the outbreak of World War II, company (not a subsidiary) of Mutual Trading Co. Tokiwa in President Roosevelt signed Executive Order 9066. It gave the Los Angeles, Hosoda Brothers in San Francisco, and Central U.S. Army unprecedented powers over civilians and allowed Boeki in Long Island, New York, probably do not import the removal of all persons of Japanese ancestry who lived amazake. He thinks that total imports are about 1,000 cases a on the west coast of the United States, and their placement year. Mutual Trading imports about 200 cases a year (48 x 6.3 in internment camps during World War II. Some 110,000 oz cans/case). Japanese-Americans (including 75,000 U.S. citizens) were Miyako has recently reached its full capacity for making forcibly evacuated from their West Coast homes in about koji. So they are planning to expand by installing an May 1942 and placed in ten internment camps. No crimes automatic koji making machine. Th e machine has already were committed, no charges were fi led, and there were no been ordered from Nagata (preferred over their competitor trials or juries. Fujiwara) in Japan. Th e machine should be in Los Angeles Th e camps were in Tule Lake and Manzanar, California; in late April or early May, and start operation by June. He Gila and Poston, Arizona; Topaz, Utah; Heart Mountain, is thinking of adding barley miso and a new variety of rice Wyoming; Granada, Colorado; Jerome and Rohwer, miso. Now they use only half of the building’s fl oor space, so Arkansas; and Minidoka, Idaho. Th e camps were open from there is plenty of room for expansion. Th ey plan to expand 1942 to 1946. Th e “exclusion” lasted 3 years. Many Japanese upward one level. Address: Los Angeles, California. were given “Enemy Alien” status. During internment, some Japanese signed a loyalty oath and volunteered to help or 1125. Hattori, Terumitsu. 1988. Status and future plans for fi ght in the war eff ort. In fact, the 442nd Combat Regiment, Kikkoman’s new tofu (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. May 25. composed of Japanese Americans, was the most decorated Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. American unit in World War II and suff ered the highest • Summary: Kikkoman’s aseptic tofu was relaunched in a percentages of casualties and deaths. Aft er internment, many new package, in fi rm and soft textures, in August 1987. It is younger Japanese were draft ed into the U.S. military, where made in and imported from Japan, and is being distributed they served as interpreters. in America by Azumaya. It is selling so fast that Kikkoman President Gerald Ford rescinded the order on 19 Feb. can’t import enough to keep up with demand. Th e person in 1976. In 1980 president Jimmy Carter established the charge of the product is in Japan; there is no such person in Commission on Wartime Relocation and Internment of America. If and when sales reach a certain level, Kikkoman Civilians to investigate these matters. Th e commission will begin to study the possibility of a new plant in the USA. concluded its investigation in 1983. Address: Kikkoman Marketing & Planning Inc., 50 California In the late 1980s the U.S. congress voted to pay each living St., Suite 3600, San Francisco, CA 94111. Phone: 415-956- descendant of the camps $20,000 as reparations and apology. 7750.

1124. Kanai, Noritoshi. 1988. Miyako Oriental Foods, 1126. Product Name: Nigari Tofu. Mutual Trading Co., Rice Koji, Amazake, Natto, and Miso Manufacturer’s Name: Aloha Products.

Manufacturer’s Address: 4515 Centinela Ave., Los Angeles, New Product–Documentation: Press Release. 1988. Nov. CA 90066. Phone: 213-822-2939. Th ese two new products are “the fi rst soy sauces made in Date of Introduction: 1988. October. America using traditional Japanese processing techniques How Stored: Refrigerated. and all-natural ingredients. Whole, Virginia-grown New Product–Documentation: Talk with Tom Uyehara. ingredients are fermented in temperature controlled vats 1988. Oct. 24. Th e product is now being test marketed in a which accelerate the brewing process while simulating the few stores. fl uctuating temperatures of the seasons.”

1127. Taste (Kikkoman, Japan).1988. Anniversary 1130. Spangler, Drew. 1988. West Coast pioneer [Elaine celebration: June 3, 1988 [Kikkoman Foods, Inc. in Beatson & Kikkoman]. Taste (Kikkoman, Japan) 2(2):8. Walworth, Wisconsin]. 2(3):8. Oct. • Summary: Th e fi rst serious attempt to introduce soy • Summary: Th e guest list was impressive. Five past and sauce to the American public took the form of a television present governors of the state of Wisconsin were among the ad campaign in 1956. Th e commercial was timed for Nov. 500 guests who gathered to celebrate the 15th anniversary 6, the day the American presidential elections were held of Kikkoman Foods, Inc. Also present were Dr. Keizaburo (Eisenhower was reelected), with the result that many Mogi (honorary chairman of Kikkoman Corp.) and Yuzaburo Americans came to remember Kikkoman as a “candidate” for Mogi. In 1973 Kikkoman Foods began production in the presidency. Walworth, Wisconsin to meet the growing demand for soy Th e following year, 1957, Kikkoman International, Inc., sauce in the United States. In the original small plant, 50 was established in San Francisco, California, and in 1970, employees produced 1.5 million gallons a year of soy sauce its test kitchen and cooking school came into existence. At and teriyaki sauce. Today the work force is more than double, that time, Hawaiian-born home economist Elaine Beatson while production has increased fi vefold [to 7.5 million was hired to develop new recipes incorporating soy sauce as gallons a year]. an ingredient. Beatson started out by publicizing soy sauce through creating recipes to go on the labels and neck hangers 1128. Meyer, Amy. 1988. Th e soy sauce market in America of bottled Kikkoman products. Today, however, publicity (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Nov. 1. Conducted by William on all fi ve products (Soy Sauce, Lite Soy Sauce, Teriyaki Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Marinade & Sauce, Teriyaki Baste & Glaze, and Stir-Fry • Summary: Total soy sauce sales in the U.S. are about $125 Sauce) is supplemented by a monthly distribution of recipes million for 1987. Th e major market segments are consumer and articles to food editors of metropolitan newspapers, as retail, restaurants and institutions, and industrial/food well as regular mailings to suburban and rural papers. processors. Th e latter is estimated at about $4 million. Th e fi gures compiled annually by Progressive Grocer only cover 1131. Belleme, John. 1989. Th e imperial sauce: Rich, dark, grocery stores. and subtle, Japan’s traditionally made shoyu is an outstanding La Choy is the leader is retail sales, followed by and versatile seasoning. East West. Jan. p. 72-77. [2 ref] Kikkoman, then Chun King. Kikkoman is the leader in sales • Summary: Westerners indiscriminately sprinkle soy sauce to restaurants, followed by Yamasa, then Chinese imports. on everything from beef to popcorn. Almost half of the 60 Last year San-J sold about $5 million worth of soy million dollars spent annually by Americans on soy sauce sauce in the U.S. Of this, $3 million went to industry (food goes for a product that is not even fermented. Kame, La processors) and $2 million to retail (mostly health food). Choy, and Chun King brands for example, are the result of Amy is gathering this information for publication in a a 1-day chemical process. Th e ingredients are soy extract, professional journal, probably the Journal of International alcohol, sugar, salt, food coloring, and preservatives. Nearly Marketing. Address: 21 Beacon St. #10, Boston, all other soy sauce sold in the U.S.–such as Kikkoman, Massachusetts 02108. Phone: 617-523-3780. Yamasa, Marukin, Higashi-Maru, and Maruten–is made from chemically processed soy meal by a high-tech, accelerated 1129. Product Name: Eden Naturally Brewed Shoyu, and method and temperature-controlled fermentation, and it Eden Wheat Free Tamari. usually contains sodium benzoate as a preservative. Manufacturer’s Name: Eden Foods, Inc. (Marketer- Traditional shoyu products reach U.S. consumers in a Distributor). Made in Virginia by San-J International, Inc. roundabout way. For example, Muso buys traditional shoyu Manufacturer’s Address: 701 Tecumseh Rd., Clinton, MI from the Marushima Brewing Co. of Shoda Shima, Japan, 49236. Phone: 800-248-0301 or 313-973-9400\. and exports it to Eden Foods, which sells it to American Date of Introduction: 1988. November. consumers under the Eden label. Ohsawa Japan buys from Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 5, 10 and 20 oz bottles, 5 gallon the Yamaki Brewing Co. of Tokyo, and sells to Ohsawa cubes, and 55 gallon drums. America, which bottles and sells it under the Lima label. Th e How Stored: Shelf stable. largest producer of traditional shoyu is the Sendai Shoyu

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 258 and Miso Co. of Sendai, Japan. Sendai makes Johsen Shoyu, new San-J plant in Richmond, Virginia. Th e basic San-J which is exported by Mitoku and is bottled in the U.S. under tamari started to be made in America in Oct. 1988 and diff erent brand names, including Westbrae, Tree of Life, is expected to be available by Feb. 1989. Specialty Food Emperor’s Kitchen, Mitoku-Johsen, and Mitoku Macrobiotic. Merchandising. 1988. Oct. “Japanese seasoning now brewed Th e author notes that, “My 8 years of miso-making in in U.S. San-J Tamari is already being used as an ingredient Japan and at American Miso Co. have taught me that miso in the foods of such major U.S. packers as Campbell, Hunt- aged in wood is superior to that aged in plastic... although Wesson, Stauff er, and H.J. Heinz.” Sendai shoyu and Miso Company started making high tech Ad (½ page color) in Food Distributors Magazine. 1989. shoyu in 1950, Sasaki insisted that his company also continue Jan. And Feb. p. 80 “Family Planning.” Shows black-label to make traditional shoyu.” Although at times Sasaki’s pet tamari, low-sodium tamari lite, and Szechuan sauce. project seemed a fi nancial disaster, in 1970 he received a Article in Food & Beverage Marketing. 1989 Jan. p. 38. phone call from a Tokyo businessman, Akiyoshi Kazama. “Tamari comes to the states.” Kazama, a friend of macrobiotic teacher Michio Kushi, was Ad (2.4 by 11 inches, color photo) in Cooking Light. looking for a supply of traditional shoyu for Kushi’s students. 1989. Jan/Feb. p. 24. “Ancient remedy for tired recipes... When Sasaki showed Kazama his 12 2,000 gallon cedar casks Th e most contemporary cooks are using San-J Tamari in of naturally aging whole soybean shoyu a few days later, everything from stir-fry to nouvelle cuisine. Tamari, the Kazama knew his search was over. Kazama shipped Johsen original soy sauce of Japan, enhances fl avors naturally Shoyu to the U.S. in 5 gallon wooden buckets at fi rst. and reduces sodium by up to 30% when used in place of Jubei Sasaki has passed away, but his 12 casks of salt.” Shows a bottle of gold label tamari against a purple traditional shoyu have grown to 100 and his son continues background. Also in Bon Appetit. Jan. 1990. the whole soybean shoyu tradition. Ad in Natural Foods Merchandiser. 1989. March. p. 4 recipes are given. Address: P.O. Box 457, Saluda, North 54. “Th e gold standard.” Th is is the new product, made in Carolina 28773. Phone: 704-749-9537. America, with a gold label. Also run in Vegetarian Times. 1989. April. p. 3. 1132. Product Name: Shoyu (Made from 70-80 parts whole Interview with John Perelman, VP Sales and Marketing, soybeans and 20-30 parts wheat). San-J. 1990. Jan. 25. Th e Gold Label and Black Label tamari, Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. made in America, fi rst became available in Feb. 1990. Th e Manufacturer’s Address: 2880 Sprouse Dr., Richmond, VA reformulated Teriyaki Sauce and Szechuan Sauce, made with 23231. Phone: 800-595-9545 or 415-821-4040 (Perelman). American-brewed tamari, were introduced to the market in Date of Introduction: 1989. January. April 1989. See also separate record for this interview. New Product–Documentation: Interview with John Ad in Vegetarian Times. 1990. March. p. 17. “Ancient Perelman, VP Sales and Marketing, San-J. 1990. Jan. 25. Th e remedy for tired recipes.” (Diff erent from that cited above). shoyu made in America by San-J fi rst became available in Jan. “More cooks are discovering the extraordinary benefi ts of 1990. It is sold exclusively by Eden Foods. traditional tamari soy sauce.”

1133. Product Name: San-J Gold Label Tamari (Traditionally 1134. Product Name: Mori-Nu Silken Tofu: Soybean Curd Brewed Gourmet Soy Sauce, Made from Whole Soybeans [Extra Firm]. and Wheat Free), Black Label Tamari (Made from Defatted Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. Soybean Grits), Teriyaki Sauce, and Szechuan Sauce. (Importer). Made in Japan by Morinaga Milk Co. Ltd. Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. Manufacturer’s Address: 5800 South Eastern Ave., Suite 270, Manufacturer’s Address: 2880 Sprouse Dr., Richmond, VA Los Angeles, CA 90040. 23231. Phone: 800-595-9545 or 415-821-4040 (Perelman). Date of Introduction: 1989. September. Date of Introduction: 1989. February. Ingredients: Water, soybeans, isolated soy protein, Ingredients: Gold label: Whole soybeans, water, sea salt [and gluconolactone [GDL], calcium chloride. alcohol]. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10.5 oz Tetra Brik Aseptic carton. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 5.07 fl uid oz (150 ml) dispenser, How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. 10 fl uid oz bottle, 20 fl uid oz (592 ml). Th e 10 oz Gold Label Nutrition: Per ½ package (5.25 oz): Calories 90, protein 12 retails for about $2.29, and the Black Label for about $1.99 gm, carbohydrate 4 gm, fat* 3 gm, cholesterol* 0 mg, sodium (13% less). 95 mg. Percentage of U.S. Recommended Daily Allowances How Stored: Shelf stable. (U.S. RDA): Protein 15, thaimine 8, ribofl avin 2, calcium 4, Nutrition: Gold label: Per 1 tbs.: Calories 11.34, protein 1.84 iron 8. gm, carbohydrate 1.06 gm, fat 0 gm. New Product–Documentation: Label. 1989. Oct. Light green, New Product–Documentation: Th ese products, formerly dark green, red, and orange-yellow on white. 4 by 2.5 by 1.75 imported from Japan, are now all made in America at the inches. Tetra Brik package. A stylized illustration shows 3

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 259 white cubes of tofu descending into a salad in a bowl. Red Area. Th en Mr. Teranishi moved the company to Stockton snipe in low right corner reads: “New! For stir fry.” On one for a while, then his son took over and brought it back to side of the package is a recipe for Vegetable Stir Fry. Th e other San Francisco, probably in the early 1930s, to 1636 Post St. side states: “Mori-Nu’s revolutionary package locks out light, (between Buchanan and Laguna). (Note: Th ere is no listing oxygen, and microorganisms which lead to early spoilage. for Azumaya in any San Francisco or Stockton city directory Mori-Nu always tastes just made–never sour. Guaranteed prior to 1957). Mr. Teranishi then sold Azumaya to a Mr. quality. Consistent taste. No preservatives. No irradiation. Francis Sakamaki, who owned an import-export business Rich in protein. No cholesterol. Low sodium. Ready to use. and who bought it for a friend who had trouble fi nding a Also try Mori-Nu Silken Soft and Silken Firm.” One end job. But the friend quit in 1936 because he couldn’t take the states “Refrigerate unused portions in an air-tight container long hours of hard work, so Mr. Sakamaki was stuck with the and use within two days. Keep in a cool place–Do not freeze.” business, and put it up for sale. On the other end is an illustration (line drawing) showing George Mizono, the eldest of 4 Mizono brothers, had how to open the package using scissors, and “Best used by graduated from high school that year and had been working Jul 04 90.” Th e back panel lists nutritional information and at a fi sh market for 6 months. In the midst of the Great ingredients: “Information on fat and cholesterol content is Depression wages were low and jobs were scarce. George provided for individuals who, on the advice of a physician, worked 12 hours a day and was paid $35 a month, with only are modifying their dietary intake of fat and cholesterol.” one Sunday off each month. His father, Saichi Mizono, who Top of back panel: “Our Guarantee: If you are not completely was retired and had a little money, advised: “If you’re going satisfi ed with Mori-Nu Tofu, we will replace the product. to work that hard, you might as well work for yourself.” So Send the empty carton, store name, location, your name and in Feb. 1937 his father bought Azumaya for $2,500 on the address to: Morinaga Nutritional Foods Inc. 5800 So. Eastern condition that George would work hard at the business. Avenue, Suite 270, Los Angeles, California 90040. For Tofu According to George, his father gave the business to him Recipes: Send self-addressed, stamped envelope to the above and never meddled, although his parents did help with the address.” daily work. Yet it was a family business, run to support the News release. 1989. Oct. 9. “Morinaga Nutritional Foods family. In Jan. 1937 George, now age 19, worked at Azumaya Inc. introduces new extra fi rm tofu for stir fry.” “Th e product to learn his business then he actually took over ownership in can also be molded into tofu burgers and used as a meat February, and Mr. Sakamaki left . At that time there was one substitute in lasagna, tacos, and other meatless dishes.” Mori- other Japanese tofu shop in San Francisco. Named Umino Nu prides itself in the creaminess of their tofu. Tofu Co., it was located at 1613 Buchanan St. Jack Mizono, Talk with Art Mio. 1989. Nov. 6. Th is extra fi rm tofu is who was still in high school, helped before school and aft er more expensive to produce, so it is being priced at 10% more school, and on weekends and holidays. Jack went to work for than the other two textures. Azumaya when he graduated in June 1937, and George gave Ad in Produce News. 1990. Jan. “Produce legal.” Shows him a half interest in the business ownership. each of the three types of Mori-Nu Tofu stacked one atop the During the fi rst year Azumaya made about 150-200 other. “Mori-Nu Tofu’s FDA-approved aseptic package meets cakes/day of tofu (each 20-24 oz.) in the 20 by 40 foot all USDA temperature requirements. Now you can safely case space. Th ese were sold in bulk in cans for about $0.05 per stack your tofu in the produce section or anywhere in the cake, delivered to Japanese grocery stores and restaurants. store, because Mori-Nu needs no refrigeration... Mori-Nu: In the early days Azumaya guaranteed sale of their tofu Tofu for the American taste.” within 24 hours. Any tofu that was left unsold at a store Ad in Natural Foods Merchandiser. 1990. Jan. p. 25. “Our the next day, they would take back and make it into grilled new extra-fi rm tofu creates quite a stir.” A color photo shows tofu (yaki-dofu). In addition the tofu, the company also stir-fried tofu and vegetables in a wok. made agé (deep-fried tofu puff s), ganmodoki (fried tofu patties), konnyaku, ito konnyaku, and fresh udon noodles. 1135. Mizono, George; Mizono, Jack; Mizono, Bill; Mizono, Th e company was never a bakery (as San Francisco City George. 1989. History of Azumaya, America’s largest Directories from 1957 say it was); at New Years the company tofu manufacturer (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Oct. 31. did make green noodles. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. In 1940 or 1941 the company moved into a rental • Summary: Details on the date and place of Azumaya’s building to 1606A Geary St. In 1942 Azumaya was forced founding are unclear. Nor is it known who coined the to close since the entire family (both parents, 4 brothers, company name. Th e earliest known owner, in the 1920s and 2 sisters, like most West Coast Japanese) was sent to or early 1930s in San Francisco, was a Mr. Teranishi. Jack an internment / detention camp during World War II. Mizono, in talks with the wife of Mr. Teranishi’s son, recalls Th e Mizonos stored their tofu-making equipment in a her saying that Mr. Teranishi started Azumaya in the 1920s government storage warehouse then went to the camp at (probably in the early 1920s) in the San Francisco Bay Topaz, Utah, for 3 years. Other Japanese set up a tofu plant

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 260 inside the camp; the Mizonos served as advisors. During (which was much bigger than Azumaya) on the way back. the war, Jack K., John S. and Bill were draft ed into the U.S. With this visit, a long and mutually benefi cial relationship Army; George was rejected because of a heart defect. Aft er began. being released in 1945, the Mizonos did not re-start Azumaya In the late 1960s the city changed the zoning at Golden immediately. Most Japanese in the camps were afraid to leave Gate from industrial to residential. So Azumaya was again the camps and to return to the Bay Area, so Azumaya had forced to move, but they were glad to get out of their too few customers to sustain operations. George went to cramped quarters into a much larger space. Th ey purchased a work for the phone company and as a welder. Jack got out of lot (about 200 by 80 feet, partly hillside) at 95 Boutwell Street, the army in Oct. 1946 and the company re-opened at their using $30,000 in city relocation funds. Th en they borrowed former location on Geary St. in early 1947. Th ey had very $100,000 and built a large, modern tofu plant (about 9,000 little business, but they had to support the family. Jack had square feet). In 1969, when they moved in, annual gross sales to hold a second job to support his family. George invented were $600,000. Jack went to Japan and bought modern tofu a hydraulic press to separate the soymilk from the okara; it making equipment, which played a key role in Azumaya’s was based on a hay press. Azumaya’s fi rst inroads into the growth. As a result of this advanced equipment, working Caucasian market was through the Berkeley Co-op system time dropped to only 6 hours a day. So needing some new during the 1950s. Jack had a good friend, Mike Yoshimine, products to fi ll up their idle time and to help pay for the who worked for the co-op. He picked up the bulk tofu in equipment, they added nama-agé (which Jack had fi rst seen oyster pails and took it to the co-op in his car. in Japan) and kinugoshi (silken tofu). In about 1957-60 Azumaya was forced to relocate because With key help from Mr. Yamauchi of Hinode Tofu Co. of the city’s redevelopment plan of Japan Center. So they in Los Angeles, they also installed a modern tofu packaging moved (without any relocation funds from the city) to 855 system (developed by Mr. Yamauchi) using plastic trays made Golden Gate Ave., between Octavia and Goff , near City by Sealright in Los Angeles (Mr. Yamauchi had agreed to Hall. Th ey bought the lot (25 by 125 feet) for about $6,000, share his exclusive right to buy these trays with Azumaya) and built the fi rst tofu plant that they owned. Bill Mizono, and Fabrikal in Kalamazoo, Michigan. the youngest of the 4 Mizono brothers, and John, joined the Azumaya also started to make Chinese-style noodles, company in about 1962; prior to that the company was too wonton skins and eggroll skins, and reintroduced their small and not busy enough to take him in and the Mizonos udon (Japanese style noodles) which they had discontinued worked 14-16 hours a day. Th e company ownership was at Golden Gate Ave. due to limited demand. Other local divided so that George and Jack each owned one-third, and companies made these Oriental foods but Azumaya was the remaining one-third was split between Bill and John as the fi rst to package them, and packaging was the key to an outright gift to them. A little aft er this time the company getting them into supermarkets. Now Azumaya had 2 lines was incorporated for tax purposes. Th ere was no issuance of of packaged products, and the pasta products and tofu stock. In the late 1960s, while still at Golden Gate (according both helped each other to gain entrance to supermarkets. to Jack’s clear recollection) the company began packaging Azumaya also started to make Chinese-style tofu (Cathay its tofu in individual containers. Th ey were the fi rst tofu Tofu) to try to capture that market. company in northern California to do so (though Matsuda & In 1973 there was a big meat shortage; meat prices Hinode had started packaging earlier in Los Angeles) and it skyrocketed between March and August. Azumaya set up a proved to be the key to their subsequent growth. Jack bought complete sales program–which Quong Hop & Co. quickly an American-made packaging machine, a 4-fl ight conveyor, copied and then went aft er Azumaya’s supermarket accounts. that cost about $10,000 and did not work very well. It was Bill Mizono stepped in to try to regain lost accounts. He very slow and labor intensive. 4 trays (containing tofu and developed new point of purchase materials using Azumaya’s water) were put into a jig then covered with one sheet of fi rst professionals: a marketing person, ad agency, and home plastic and put into the machine, which sealed on the plastic. economist. Th e result was that in 1973 Azumaya published Th e 4 packages were then cut apart manually and put into recipes for using tofu to extend meat–Tofu Meat Loaf, Pork cardboard boxes. Most consumers, including the Berkeley Tofu, Sukiyaki, and Sweet ‘n Sour Tofu. Below each recipe Co-op, did not like the switch to packaged tofu, but store name was the slogan: “Tofu- from the bean that thinks it’s owners like it because it reduced handling (many retail store meat!” Matsuda & Hinode in Los Angeles co-sponsored the used to package their tofu in little deli cartons and affi x a recipes. Th en several weeks before Th anksgiving in 1973 Bill label and weight), raised profi ts, and was more sanitary. held a press luncheon at San Francisco’s famous Bush Garden While at Golden Gate, in about 1969, aft er they were Restaurant. Forty media people attended, including people packaging in the 4 trays, the Mizonos met Mr. Yamauchi, from TV channels 4, 5, and 7. Tofu immediately began to get owner of Matsuda & Hinode Tofu Co in Los Angeles. While extensive, positive media coverage as a good, inexpensive they were closed at New Year’s they took a week vacation protein source and supplement to meat. Azumaya’s tofu sales to Disneyland then stopped by to see Mr. Yamauchi’s plant skyrocketed.

Aft er the move to Boutwell, Japan Foods Corp. (JFC) California). was the fi rst real distributor to Azumaya tofu. Th ey took it How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. mostly to smaller stores, but within about 6 months they got New Product–Documentation: Product with Label Azumaya into local Safeway stores–a huge break. Azumaya purchased at Safeway supermarket in Lafayette, California. then got the Safeway Richmond warehouse account with 200 1991. Dec. 30. 5 by 3.25 inches. Gold, red, and white on stores, then Lucky, then many diff erent chains started to carry black. “Although shoyu is normally made with nearly equal Azumaya tofu. JFC was cut out as a middleman in sales to parts of soybeans and wheat, tamari is normally made with supermarkets, though JFC still distributes Azumaya tofu to soybeans and a small amount of wheat. Tamari soy sauce is the Asian-American market. Th is Azumaya tofu was packed a full-bodied seasoning with a deep-rich color and unique with water in plastic trays (made by Sealright), sealed with a fi ne fl avor. Kikkoman tamari soy sauce is naturally brewed in printed fi lm lid. Japan... Th e touch of wheat in this tamari gives it a smoother Packaging still remained a problem. In July 1975 Mr. taste, more complex fl avor, and appealing color... Refrigerate Yamauchi (of Matsuda and Hinode) and Jack Mizono became aft er opening.” partners in starting Airtight Container Inc. in Los Angeles. Talk with Kikkoman sales dept. in San Francisco. 1991. Aft er about a year of unsuccessfully trying to make their Dec. 31. Th is imported product was fi rst sold in America own plastic trays (since supply from Sealright was unreliable, in Oct. 1989. Th e unique red cap can be closed aft er each and Azumaya was required to order by the truckload far use. In Japan a small amount is sold to restaurants for use in advance), they got Merrill’s Packaging in Burlingame, with sashimi. Kikkoman used to sell tamari in the USA in California, to start making these high density polyethylene 55-gallon drums but has discontinued this due to lack of trays in late 1976. Now Azumaya’s packaging was matched to demand. their production equipment. In about 1977-79 George retired; he sold his ownership 1137. SoyaScan Notes.1989. Infl uence of Japanese and Japan to the other 3 brothers. In 1977 annual gross sales reached on soyfoods in America (Overview). Dec. 7. Compiled by $1 million. During the 1980s the American concern with William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. cholesterol and better diets further expanded Azumaya • Summary: Th e Soyfood Center’s SoyaScan database sales. Francisco on 2.5 acres of land. In about 1976-80 the presently contains 30,790 publications and commercial company began to sell tofu outside of California, fi rst in products related to soya. Of these, 876 (2.9%) concern the Oregon and Washington, then back to the East Coast. In Oct. infl uence of Asian-Americans (Japanese, Chinese, Koreans, 1979 Azumaya moved into a much larger, new plant (about or Indonesians) or their home countries on soyfoods. Of 44,000 square feet or 5 times as big) at 1575 Burke Ave. in these 876 records, 638 (73%) concern Japanese infl uence, San Francisco. Tofu production rose from 110,000 lb/week compared with 178 (20%) that concern Chinese infl uence– in 1982, to 122,000 lb/week in 1984, and 150,000 lb/week in including Chinese from Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, etc. 1987. Th us Japanese infl uence on soyfoods in America is much What are the main factors that transformed Azumaya greater than that of any other Asian cultural group. We can from a tiny Japanese tofu shop into the largest tofu identify at least seven major areas of infl uence: manufacturer in the Western world? Th e location in 1. Soyfoods Terminology. It is interesting to note that California. Th e early start. Th e early move to individual many of the most popular soyfoods in America are most packaging. Th e 1973 meat shortage which gave tofu new widely known by their Japanese names. We say tofu (not publicity. Th e early entrance into supermarket chains. Th e doufu or bean curd), miso (not jiang or soybean paste), natto, rise of health/cholesterol consciousness in the USA. Address: okara (not soy pulp), yuba (not doufu-p’i or soybean skin). 1&3. San Francisco, California (retired); 2. President, Even “soy” (as in soy sauce) is derived from the Japanese Azumaya Inc., 1575 Burke Ave., San Francisco, California word “shoyu.” Increasingly Americans interested in natural 94124. Phone: 1. 415-343-8100; 2. 415-221-4470; 3. 415-285- foods also use the terms shoyu and tamari to distinguish 8500. them from HVP soy sauce. 2. Kikkoman. By far the most infl uential Japanese 1136. Product Name: Kikkoman Naturally Brewed Tamari soyfoods company in America today is Kikkoman, just as Soy Sauce. soy sauce is by far the most important soyfood product. Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman Corporation. Kikkoman was also the fi rst Japanese company to introduce Manufacturer’s Address: Noda 278, Chiba-ken, Japan. soyfoods to America. In 1868 the fi rst Japanese immigrants Date of Introduction: 1989. October. to Hawaii took kegs of Kikkoman brand shoyu with them. Ingredients: Water, soybeans, salt, wheat, alcohol to preserve In 1879 Kikkoman brand shoyu was registered in California, freshness. where it was exported to Japanese immigrants. Exports rose Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 8.5 fl oz (250 ml) glass bottle with steadily, until between 1949 and 1954 exports of Kikkoman “one-touch” plastic dispenser cap. Retails for $2.29 (12/91, shoyu to the U.S. ranged from 213,000 to 305,000 gallons

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 262 a year. Kikkoman’s fi rst real attempt to reach any foreign American Soy Products began producing Edensoy soymilk market dates from 1956 when, during the U.S. presidential in Clinton, Michigan. It was a joint venture between Eden elections, Kikkoman ran television ads to promote its product Foods and 4 Japanese companies: Marusan Ai, Kawatetsu to mainstream American audiences as a seasoning for meat, Shoji, Muso Shokuhin, and Seikensha. Edensoy has since fi sh, and poultry. In 1957 Kikkoman International Incl., a become America’s best-selling soymilk. Prior to 1986 much of new sales company was established in San Francisco. Sales the soymilk sold in America was made in Japan. skyrocketed. In 1973 Kikkoman opened a huge modern Finally, three of America’s 4 largest miso manufacturers shoyu plant at Walworth, Wisconsin. In 1976 Kikkoman are run by Japanese-Americans. Th e largest is Miyako passed La Choy to become America’s best-selling soy sauce. Oriental Foods in Los Angeles. Th e other two are located in 3. Introducing Soyfoods to Hawaii. Th e fi rst Japanese who Hawaii. arrived in Hawaii in 1868 brought shoyu and miso with them. 5. Soyfoods Imports from Japan. Th e fi rst importers of Th e earliest known soyfoods company there was a shoyu shoyu and miso were Japanese distributors such as Japan brewery started in 1891 in Honolulu by Jihachi Shimada. Th is Foods Corp., Mutual Trading Co. and Nishimoto. But was also the earliest known soyfoods company started by a starting in 1962 American macrobiotic and natural foods Japanese anywhere in the Western world. Hawaii became part companies started to import large amounts of shoyu and of the USA in 1898 by annexation. Hawaii and California miso. Pioneers were Chico-San, Erewhon, Eden Foods, were the fi rst two areas in the U.S. where soyfoods became Westbrae, Edward & Sons, Tree of Life, and Great Eastern widely available. During the 20th century, Japanese started Sun. U.S. imports of soy sauce from Japan jumped from 1.7 roughly 183 companies in Hawaii making shoyu, miso, million lb (174,400 gallons, worth $317,000) in 1949, to 18.6 and tofu–far more than Chinese (6) or Koreans (2). Th ey million lb (1,897,000 gallons, worth $3,116,000) in 1972, an developed innovative new products–such as sweet Hawaiian- 11-fold increase in quantity during only 23 years. style shoyu and miso. Th ese products profoundly infl uenced 6. Teachers and Information. Many Americans fi rst the food life of Hawaii. learned about soyfoods from Japanese teachers, especially 4. Soyfood Manufacturers in the USA. Th e earliest macrobiotic teachers, such as George and Lima Ohsawa, known soyfoods manufacturer in the Continental USA was a Michio and Aveline Kushi, Herman and Cornellia Aihara, company (the name is unknown) run by the wife of Chieko and Noboru Muramoto. All have written many infl uential Hirata that started making tofu in Sacramento in about 1895. books and lectured and taught extensively since the 1960s. Th e second earliest was Yamamori Jozo-sho, which started In addition, many young Americans learned how to make making shoyu in San Jose, California, in 1897. Many of the soyfoods from these macrobiotic teachers. Moreover, Japan earliest soyfoods companies in America were run by Japanese is Asia’s best source of information about soyfoods. For Americans. By 1942 at least 158 soyfoods manufacturing example, the Soyfoods Center’s SoyaScan database contains companies had been started in America by Asian Americans; 5,095 publications and products about soya and Japan, of these, 143 (91%) were run by Japanese Americans. When compared with 1,867 on soya and China or Taiwan. Th e Book of Tofu was published in 1975, it listed 55 tofu 7. Tofu Equipment Manufacturers. Hundreds of tofu companies in America, all run by Asian-Americans; 39 companies have started in America since the mid-1970s. Th e were Japanese- and 16 were Chinese-run. Today America’s majority of these are run by Caucasian Americans and most two largest tofu companies are both run by Japanese use specialized tofu equipment made in Japan by Takai Tofu Americans: Azumaya Co. in San Francisco, and House & Soymilk Equipment Co., or by Sato Shoji. Foods & Yamauchi Inc. in Los Angeles. Hawaii’s three largest tofu companies are also run by Japanese Americans: Aloha 1138. Morinaga Nutritional Foods. 1989. Yasuo Kumoda, Tofu Co., Kanai Tofu Factory, and Hawaii Tofu. Morinaga vice president, general manager (News release). 5800 South Nutritional Foods in Los Angeles and Kikkoman Foods Eastern Ave., Suite 270, Los Angeles, CA 90040. 1 p. Undated. in San Francisco both import large amounts of aseptically • Summary: “Kumoda supervised the opening Morinaga packaged long-life silken tofu from Japan. Nutritional Foods Inc. in Los Angeles in October, 1985, for Another major manufacturer is San-Jirushi Corp. of the marketing and distribution of Mori-Nu Tofu. Prior to Kuwana, Mie-ken. In the late 1970s San Jirushi started 1985, Mori-Nu Tofu was distributed by Mutual Trading Co. exporting tamari and soybean miso to America. Th ey set of Los Angeles with sales targeted to the Asian market. Aft er up an offi ce in the early 1980s and began to promote their the opening of Morinaga Nutritional Foods, sales of Mori-Nu product as “real” tamari to industrial food processors and Tofu increased from 60,000 to 400,000 cases in less than four the natural foods market. In Sept. 1987 the company opened years... a state-of-the art tamari plant in Richmond, Virginia, with “Kumoda has been instrumental in the implementation a capacity of 1 million gallons a year. Th e company now has of Mori-Nu’s 10,000 member Health For Life Club as well as 75% of the industrial soy sauce market in America. Mori-Nu’s ‘Healthy Life’ newsletter.” In Oct. 1986 a major new joint stock company named Note: Talk with Art Mio. 1990. Feb. 6. It now looks like

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 263 sales of Mori-Nu Tofu for fi scal year 1989-90, which ends in and cooked thoroughly before eating?” Th e tofu standards March 1990, will be about 375,000 cases. Each case contains adopted in Oct. 1986 recommend that tofu be stored at 25 x 10.5 ounce packs of tofu. Th is represents 5,906,250 lb/ 34-45ºF; this falls within FDA guidelines. “Data available to year of tofu, or 113,582 lb/week of tofu. Th is makes Morinaga us from the largest tofu manufacturer in the northeast USA one of the top four tofu sellers in the USA, along with House [Nasoya], one who conducts regular temperature surveys of Foods and Yamauchi, Azumaya, and Nasoya Foods. Address: all the stores that their product is sold in, indicates that over Los Angeles, California. Phone: 213-728-4325. 90% of the tofu sold in produce cases in New England is sold at 45ºF or below. 1139. Product Name: High-Fiber Tofu. “And, the SAA, in order to determine just how tofu is Manufacturer’s Name: Teruya Tofu Factory. being handled by processors and retailers alike, is conducting Manufacturer’s Address: 1830 Mill St., Wailuku, Maui 96793. a survey of manufacturers, in conjunction with the Food Phone: 808-244-5313. Science Department of the University of Maine at Orono. Date of Introduction: 1989? Among other areas that will be investigated, the survey New Product–Documentation: Talk with Roger Krehl of will attempt to clarify just how much tofu, if any, is sold in Paradise Fruit Maui. 1990. July 4. Roger has a fruit stand and violation of federal or state guidelines. We expect to have it fast-food restaurant (not sit down) at 1913 Kihei Rd., Kihei, completed within six months. Maui, Hawaii 96753. It focuses on freshness and health. He “While our industry is new and fairly small when has known Walter Teruya for the 12 years that he (Roger) compared to others, we believe that we have a pretty good has been in business. He buys tofu from Walter Teruya, who record. It’s ironic that the bulk of the negative publicity about makes a regular and a high-fi ber tofu, plus soy beverages. our industry appears to be coming from within it–specifi cally He wholesales only in bulk (5 gallon buckets with water and from your company. It’s quite likely that somewhere in blocks of tofu in them), plus plastic bags that he supplies. America, fresh-packed tofu is being stored above 45ºF, just as Roger retails the tofu, and also makes it into a number of somewhere, some milk, is being improperly stored. Whether recipes. Walter is the son of the founder and a very nice guy, this situation for tofu is widespread or isolated is presently with lots of good ideas. He starts work at 2:00 A.M. and is unknown and is the subject of our study. What is clear, is that done by noon, then goes to bed. Th ey live right above their compared to other protein sources such as meat and poultry, shop. Th e company used to be named Valley Isle Foods Inc. tofu has presented a much lower incidence of contamination, at the same address. Directory Assistance: Walter Teruya’s regardless of its normal storage temperature practices... phone: 808-242-7324. “Th e SAA believes there is a place for both canned milk and fresh milk. Producers of canned milk do not try 1140. Product Name: Soy Beverage. to sell their product by infl aming consumers’ fears about Manufacturer’s Name: Teruya Tofu Factory. contamination of fresh milk.” Address: President, Board of Manufacturer’s Address: 1830 Mill St., Wailuku, Maui 96793. Directors, Soyfoods Assoc. of America, 318 Main St., Bar Phone: 808-244-5313. Harbor, Maine 04609. Phone: 207-288-9419. Date of Introduction: 1989? New Product–Documentation: Talk with Roger Krehl of 1142. SoyaScan Notes.1990. Origin and early exports of Paradise Fruit Maui. 1990. July 4. Th is company makes a soy Kikkoman brand shoyu (Overview). March 19. Compiled by beverage. William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. • Summary: Th e Kikkoman brand was fi rst used for shoyu 1141. Bennett, Gordon. 1990. Re: Reply to letter from Art (soy sauce) in the year 1784 (Tenmei 2) by the Saheiji MOGI Mio (11 Jan. 1990) concerning the Soyfoods Association of family in Noda, Japan. In 1838 (Tenpo 9), Saheiji Mogi America’s actions relation to tofu contamination and storage. petitioned for and received registration for the brand name Letter to Art Mio at Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc., March Kikkoman by the central government of Japan (Bakufu 5. 5 p. Typed, with signature on letterhead. Goryomaru). • Summary: Gordon writes: We do not consider tofu to be In 1872 and 1873, Mogi Saheiji entered Kikkoman in two “the very real threat to consumer safety” that you assert it world’s fairs, the fi rst held in Amsterdam and the second in is. “In fact, since 1982, at least 500 million pounds of tofu Austria. Kikkoman was awarded a letter of commendation has been sold in this country, without a single outbreak for excellence at the Austrian fair, and following this, Mogi of food-related illness. Can the dairy, poultry, egg or meat Saheiji redoubled his eff orts to promote the brand. But there industry say the same? Certainly not. Are you aware that 19 are no records showing that Kikkoman was exported to people died last year from Salmonella poisoning attributable Europe following its recognition at these prestigious shows. to eggs? Are you aware that the USDA publicly recognizes Th e earliest known export of Kikkoman brand shoyu was that up to 50% of the chicken sold today is contaminated apparently in 1879. Th at year it was registered in California with Salmonella and should be washed before handling as a legally recognized brand name (a move that predated the

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 264 same legal protection in Japan by six years!) and the same U.S. market... Th e process will take whole soybeans from the year a Mr. Demoto started to sell Kikkoman brand shoyu in adjacent West Central elevator, de-hull, crack, and press the California. beans into fl akes.” “Nichii Company of America, a wholly owned subsidiary 1143. Shimizu, Teruo. 1990. Recent developments at Miyako of Nichii Company Ltd. of Japan, is incorporated in Oriental Foods (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. April 17. California, with headquarters at Torrance in that state. Its Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. primary business is the export of U.S. products to Japan, • Summary: Miyako is presently making about 900 including about $6 million per year of Iowa pork. In fi scal metric tons/year of miso, making them the largest miso year 1989 Nichii Company Ltd. and its subsidiaries [of which manufacturer in America. Th is is up 30% compared with there are now 35] became the Mycal Group, with about 300 three years ago (when the dollar/yen exchange rate changed stores throughout Japan with annual sales of over $8 billion. dramatically), but there has not been much increase during Th e Mycal Group is Japan’s fi ft h largest publicly held retailing the past 2 years. About 80% of sales are to the Asian- group. American market (including small exports to Japanese in Th e event is also a landmark for West Central Mexico), and 20% to the natural foods market. Westbrae, a Cooperative, being its fi rst attempt at both a joint venture former customer, is now buying their miso from Canada. and at involvement with production of human foods. Mr. Th ey are now trying to increase their sales to the Korean- Kobayashi, the president of Nichii Co. and Iowa governor American market. Th e younger generation of Korean- Terry Branstad signed a letter of intent for the plant to be Americans fi nds the fl avor of Korean miso to be too strong. built in Iowa on 20 Jan. 1990. Th is plant in Greene County Th ey (and some Korean restaurants) like to mix equal will be the 17th major Japanese plant in Iowa. parts of Miyako rice miso with Korean miso. Some Korean Note: Th e plant is expected to be operational by Feb. restaurants have switched to using only Japanese miso. One 1991. reason is that the quality of Korean miso is inconsistent. Th ey are selling quite a bit of dry koji to Grainaissance 1146. Glynn, Mike. 1990. Mori-Nu wages battle against and to Cedarlane, both of whom use it to make amazake. tofu industry: Mio wants conventional tofu out of produce Two years ago Miyako purchased an expensive, automatic, department. Packer (Th e). July 21. p. 16A. computer-controlled rotary koji fermenter from Nagata • Summary: Discusses the response of the Soyfoods Brewery Machinery Co. (the biggest company; they also sold Association and Morinaga to the classifi cation of tofu as a such a machine to Takara USA, the sake maker). It is working “potentially hazardous food” and to the practice of storing very well for them. Th e only other manufacturer of such tofu in the produce department. Art Mio of Morinaga feels fermenters is Fujiwara in Okayama. Address: Vice President, that the Soyfoods Association is dragging its feet and failing Miyako Oriental Foods Inc., 4287 Puente Ave., Baldwin Park, to assume the role of a responsible industry leader, insisting California 91706. Phone: 818-962-9633. that its members follow FDA’s regulations.

1144. Product Name: Cold Mountain Miso (Made with 1147. SoyaScan Notes.1990. How many bushels of soybeans Organic Soybeans) [Red, Mellow White, or Light Yellow]. per month are used by various American West Coast tofu and Manufacturer’s Name: Miyako Oriental Foods, Inc. soymilk manufacturers (Overview). Nov. 28. Compiled by Manufacturer’s Address: 4287 Puente Ave., Baldwin Park, William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. CA 91706. • Summary: Th e following are ranked in descending order Date of Introduction: 1990. April. of bushels of soybeans used per month: House Foods & New Product–Documentation: Portfolio sent by Terry Yamauchi Inc. 12,000 (Los Angeles. Th is includes soybeans Shimizu of Miyako Oriental Foods. 1999. Nov. 22. Talk with used to make soymilk for Westbrae’s Ah Soy in 225 ml Terry Shimizu. 1999. Nov. 29. Th is product was introduced in foil pouches), Azumaya 3,567 (San Francisco; buys from April 1990. Only the soybeans are organic. Minnesota in 60 lb bags. Uses 300 tons/month), Pacifi c Foods 2,250 (Tualatin, Oregon. Th is includes soymilk used 1145. Jeff erson Herald (Jeff erson, Iowa).1990. Ground is to make Westbrae Aseptic WestSoy Lite), Quong Hop & Co. broken for new Nichii plant. July 12. p. 1, 7. 2,000 (South San Francisco), Wy Ky 1,563 (Los Angeles), • Summary: Th e groundbreaking ceremony for the new Wo Chong Co. 1,167 (San Francisco), Mighty Soy 1,117 (Los soyfl ake production plant took place on Monday, July 9. Th e Angeles), American Foods 733 (Alhambra, California), San plant will Nichii’s fi rst overseas production facility. Th e fl ake Diego Soy Dairy 467 (El Cajon, CA), Clearway Soy Foods 67 product will be marketed under the trademark “MicroSoy (Corralitos, CA), Fuji Fresh Tofu 50 (San Jose, CA), San Jose Flakes.” Th e plant will have a capacity of 6 tons of fl akes per Tofu 50, Fresno Tofu 33 (Fresno, CA). hour. “Initially, Nichii plans to export 500 tons of soyfl akes to Japan per month, and also sell an equal amount in the 1148. Product Name: Kyoto Firm Tofu [Plain, or With Sauce

Packet]. Date of Introduction: 1990? Manufacturer’s Name: Kyoto Food Corp. USA. Ingredients: Water, organically grown soy bean, sugar. Manufacturer’s Address: 1050 W. 35th Drive, Terre Haute, IN Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: ½-gallon plastic jug. 47802. Phone: 812-235-9806. How Stored: Refrigerated. Date of Introduction: 1990. December. New Product–Documentation: Talk with Martin Lin of Wa Ingredients: Plain: Water, soybeans, calcium sulfate and Heng Tofu Co. in Sacramento, California. 1991. Nov. 19. magnesium chloride (coagulating agent). Sacramento Tofu sells soymilk in a ½-gallon plastic jug (like Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 12 oz. milk is sold in). It has a 20-day shelf life. Martin is unable to How Stored: Refrigerated. get a shelf life of more than 10 days without preservatives. Nutrition: Per 4 oz.: Calories 81, protein 9.07 gm, Does Sacramento Tofu use preservatives in their soymilk? carbohydrates 2.40 gm, fat 4.54 gm, cholesterol 0 mg, sodium Photocopy of Label sent by Martin Lin. 1991. Nov. 0 mg. 1.5 by 2.5 inches. “Fresh. Perishable. Keep refrigerated.” New Product–Documentation: Label and letter sent by Contains the Chinese characters for “Tou Chiang.” Note that Mary Beth Th omas, Director of Marketing at Kyoto Food preservatives are not listed on the label. Corp. 1991. Jan. 28. “Production started Dec. 28, 1990. We are currently in grocery stores within an 80-mile radius and 1151. Product Name: Th ai Peanut Sauce. expanding rapidly... One label is for our plain package which Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. is sealed directly on the container; the other is an envelope- Manufacturer’s Address: 2880 Sprouse Dr., Richmond, VA type over-wrap and indicates a sauce packet enclosed. Th e 23231. Phone: 800-595-9545 or 415-821-4040 (Perelman). sauce packet contains our own fl avor mix for tofu soup and a Date of Introduction: 1991. January. meatloaf recipe.” Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 5.07 fl uid oz (150 ml) dispenser, Label. 7 by 4.25 inches. Green, orange, pink, black, and 10 fl uid oz bottle, 20 fl uid oz (592 ml). Th e 10 oz Gold Label blue on white. Illustrations of a fork piercing a cube of tofu retails for about $2.29, and the Black Label for about $1.99 in front of a bowl of tofu soup. Five pink fans across the top (13% less). against a green background. “A taste of the Orient. High How Stored: Shelf stable. protein. Low fat. No cholesterol. No preservatives. Natural Nutrition: Gold label: Per 1 tbs.: Calories 11.34, protein 1.84 soybean product. Aft er opening place unused portion gm, carbohydrate 1.06 gm, fat 0 gm. under water–change daily and refrigerate.” UPC indicia. Th e New Product–Documentation: Talk with Stephen Zoller. product containing the sauce packet bears a multi-pointed 1992. July 6. Th is product was introduced in Sept/Oct. 1991 orange star on which is written: “Sauce packet inside.” Th ere at the Natural Foods Expo, but was not available in stores is a ½-inch-wide green border around the label. Soyfoods until Dec. 1991. Center product evaluation. 1991. Jan. Th is is one of the most poorly designed, least attractive/eff ective labels we have seen 1152. Product Name: San-J Organic Whole Soybean Tamari: for any tofu product in America. But Mr. Roach likes it. Wheat Free Soy Sauce (Gold Label; Traditionally Brewed Gourmet Soy Sauce; OCIA Certifi ed Organic). 1149. Product Name: Abura-Age: Deep Fried Tofu Pouches. Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. Manufacturer’s Name: Sacramento Tofu Co. Manufacturer’s Address: 2880 Sprouse Dr., Richmond, VA Manufacturer’s Address: 1915 Sixth St., Sacramento, CA 23231. Phone: 800-595-9545 or 415-821-4040 (Perelman). 95814. Phone: 916-447-2682. Date of Introduction: 1991. December. Date of Introduction: 1990? Ingredients: Water, whole soybeans (OCIA certifi ed), sea Ingredients: Water, soy beans, nigari (calcium chloride), salt, alcohol (to preserve freshness). vegetable oil. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 5.07 fl uid oz (150 ml) dispenser, Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 7 oz plastic bag, 12 pieces per bag. 10 fl uid oz bottle, 20 fl uid oz (592 ml). Th e 10 oz Gold Label How Stored: Refrigerated. retails for about $2.29, and the Black Label for about $1.99 New Product–Documentation: Product with Label (13% less). purchased at Diablo Oriental Foods in Walnut Creek, How Stored: Shelf stable. California. 1990. June 27. Plastic bag is 8.75 by 10.75 inches. Nutrition: Gold label: Per 1 tbs.: Calories 11.34, protein 1.84 Label, printed on bag, is 5 by 4 inches. Red, green, and black. gm, carbohydrate 1.06 gm, fat 0 gm. Label on back of bag gives recipes for Age Sushi / Inari Sushi. New Product–Documentation: Talk with Stephen Zoller. 1992. July 6. Th is Gold Label product, certifi ed organic by 1150. Product Name: Sweet Soy Drink. the Organic Crop Improvement Association (OCIA) was Manufacturer’s Name: Sacramento Tofu Co. introduced in Dec. 1991. Th is wheat-free, whole-soybean Manufacturer’s Address: 1915 Sixth St., Sacramento, CA product itself is certifi ed, not just the beans going in. Th e 95814. Phone: 916-447-2682. company’s previous Gold Label Tamari was made with

Virginia-grown soybeans that were not claimed to be organic. Steve Zoller. 1992. July 7. Illustration: On the dark miso a Th e company now uses ultrafi ltration to do its fi ltration. San- Japanese man drinking a cup of miso soup; on the mild miso, Jirushi in Japan liked this idea so much that they decided to a Japanese woman doing the same. “Directions: Squeeze install it in Japan, i.e. reverse technology transfer. Each year contents of miso packet into [paper] cup. Empty contents of in the spring at San Jirushi, Japan, some 2-6 managers are vegetable packet into cup. Add boiling water to ½ inch from promoted. Aft er promotion, they typically come to visit the top of cup. Cover for 1 minute. Stir well before eating.” U.S. plant. Ad (8 by 11 inches, color) in Natural Foods Merchandiser. Label sent by Steve Zoller. 1992. July 7. 1992. Sept. p. 35. “188 years and one minute later, its soup.” Shows a Japanese man and woman, kneeling on opposite 1153. Product Name: Mori-Nu Silken Tofu (Chinese Label) sides of a low table in a tatami mat room, each drinking a [Firm, or Soft ]. paper cup of San-J miso soup. “Seven generations aft er San-J’s Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. founding fathers began making miso near Nagoya, Instant (Importer). Made in Japan by Morinaga Milk Co. Ltd. Miso Soup-In-A-Cup comes to America.” San-J: Established Manufacturer’s Address: 5800 South Eastern Ave., Suite 270, 1804. Los Angeles, CA 90040. Phone: 310-787-0200. Product with Label purchased at Open Sesame in Date of Introduction: 1992. January. Lafayette, California. 1995. March 11. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10.5 oz (297 gm) Tetra Brik Aseptic carton. 1155. Shimizu, Teruo. 1992. Recent developments at Miyako How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. Oriental Foods (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. March 23. New Product–Documentation: Almost all of the writing Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. on these products is in Chinese; they are sold to Chinese • Summary: Th eir Caucasian-American miso market is Americans. Letter (fax) from Art Mio. 1996. May 14. “We growing at about 10% a year. Miyako’s total sales in America fi rst began to sell Chinese Label Mori-Nu Tofu in January are growing at about 15% a year. Th ey started using organic 1992... Th is past fi scal year, which ended in March, saw a soybeans about 2 years ago, and that has helped the growth surge in sales which approached a 50% increase.” of their product in the natural foods market. Th e Japanese Poster (color, 8 by 11 inches, undated) sent by Art Mio. yen has steadily become more expensive (i.e. one dollar 1996. May. Shows one carton each of Chinese Label Mori-Nu buys fewer yen), so the cost of miso imported to America Tofu fi rm and soft on a cutting board behind a knife and six has risen approximately proportionally. Th us many Japanese small cubes of tofu. In the upper left is written in Chinese restaurants in America that formerly used imported miso are characters (with English text below them): “Smooth silken now buying their miso from Miyako. Miyako is not exporting texture. Long shelf life. No preservatives.” any miso to Japan, because the freight is high and there is also a high tariff on miso imported into Japan. Address: Vice 1154. Product Name: Traditional Japanese Soup (in a Cup) President, Miyako Oriental Foods Inc., 4287 Puente Ave., [Mild Miso, or Dark Miso]. Baldwin Park, California 91706. Phone: 818-962-9633. Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. Manufacturer’s Address: 2880 Sprouse Dr., Richmond, VA 1156. Ota, Eileen. 1992. History of Ota Tofu Shop in 23231. Phone: 800-545-9545 or 415-821-4040 (Perelman). Portland, Oregon (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. March 26. Date of Introduction: 1992. February. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Ingredients: 1995: Liquid broth in foil pouch: San-J rice miso • Summary: Th is interview was followed by letters from (water, whole soybeans, rice, salt), kombu extract (seaweed, Eileen dated 28 April 1993 and 11 Feb. 1998; there were barley malt), water, alcohol, salt, shiitake mushroom powder. 2 more interviews and several e-mails in June 2008. Dried vegetables in foil pouch: Fu ([baked] wheat gluten), Documents: Th e address “86½ 5th N” [86½ North 5th Street] tofu (soybean curd), scallions. seems to be strongly linked to the origin of this company. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 0.930 oz (23.6 gm) net paper cup. Although Eileen did extensive research with the Oregon By March 1995 1.1 oz. Retails for $1.49 (3/95, California). Historical Society in Portland, the City of Portland Bureau How Stored: Shelf stable. of Licenses, and the State of Oregon Corporation Division, New Product–Documentation: Spot in Natural Foods she was unable to fi nd any early document that mentioned a Merchandiser. 1992. July. p. 72. Shows a black-and-white tofu shop in Portland. Th ough she has no fi rm proof that the photo of the side of both cups. Both products are prepared tofu company was established in 1918, she will continue to with real miso paste (not dried) for authentic Japanese fl avor use that date since it long appeared on the packages in which and texture. “Just add boiling water to create instant soup for their tofu was sold. lunch-on-the-go or a low-fat fi rst course.” First some basic genealogy and family history: Eileen’s Talk with Steve Zoller of San-J. 1992. July 6. Th is product best source of information was an interview with Mrs. was introduced in Feb. 1992. Product with Labels sent by Matsuno Ota. Th e tofu company was apparently started by

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 267 an uncle. Th e Ota/Ohta family lived in Okayama, Japan. At time) that Mr. Isoshima would take the Ota family name in some date in the early 1900s the three brothers (including order to carry on that name (a common practice in Japan) Saizo Ohta, the third brother) came to the USA. One of the since Matsuno Ota’s parents had had no male children. fi rst two Ohta brothers was a partner with a Mr. Nagaro, Th ey had three children: Noriko Ota (female), Yoshiko with whom the “original” Ohta Tofu was established in Ota (female), and Koichi “Ko” Ota (male). In May 1955 about 1911. For some reason, this brother returned to Japan, Mrs. Matsuno Ota returned to the USA with her husband leaving the business to Saizo Ohta, his brother. Eileen has not and children. A medical technician in Japan, Mr. Ota was been able to fi nd the given name of the man who founded unable to fi nd work except as a janitor at Reed College in the company. According to Matsuno Ota, the company was Portland. He helped on weekends at the tofu shop. Matsuno initially named “Asahi” or something like that related to the Ota worked, sewing, at Portland’s White Stag, a clothing word for “sun.” manufacturer. When Mrs. Shina Ohta suff ered a stroke in Shina Masuda (a woman, born 31 Jan. 1895 in Okayama) 1957, Mr. Sokichi Ota took over her work at Ota Tofu Co., and Saizo Ota (born 13 April 1881) immigrated separately to joined on weekends and holidays by his children. In 1971 Oregon from Okayama, Japan. Saizo arrived in the USA fi rst Koichi Ota worked fi rst as a partner with Sokichi Ota, and in March 1905; Shina arrived later, in June 1913. Th ey were then took over management and operation of Ota Tofu. married later (at an unknown date, probably in Okayama); Koichi appears in an illustration in the book Tofu & Soymilk she was a “picture bride.” Th eir fi rst business may have been Production, by Shurtleff & Aoyagi (1979, p. 150). In 1976 a hotel, bath house, or perhaps a laundry. Th ey had one child, Koichi Ota and Eileen Nishimoto were married. Th ey a daughter, named Matsuno Ota, who was born in Portland eventually had 4 daughters: Sara, Stephanie, Kimberly, and in July 1916. In 1920, Matsuno’s mother, Shina, took Matsuno Julie. In 1981 the company moved to a new building at 812 to Japan to be raised by an aunt (Shina’s sister) and sent to S.E. Stark St. in Portland. Sokichi Ota retired, but Koichi school. Shina then returned to the USA to join her husband. continued with 4 full-time employees. In 1987 the company It is not yet clear how and when Saizo and Shina got name was offi cially changed to Ota Family Tofu from Ota involved in making tofu at the tofu shop co-founded by Tofu Co. As of 1993 Ota Family Tofu is still located at 812 Saizo’s brother. Matsuno Ota vaguely recalls the following: S.E. Stark Street, Portland, Oregon 97214. Phone: 503-232- In 1918-19 there was a terrible worldwide “Spanish fl u” 8947. It is managed by Koichi Ota and has 8 employees. Th ey epidemic. 548,000 died in the USA alone, and about 20 make tofu 6 days a week, plus agé and soymilk. Eileen still million worldwide. Matsuno recalls that the daughter of works at the company. She was born in 1949, and so was not the founding Ota brother became ill with the fl u, thus snared by the internment, but here elder brother, Richard, prompting her father to return with her to Japan. Matsuno was. does not know what became of his partner, Mr. Nagaro. It Th e Oregon News, established in 1904 and published in was probably at about this time that Saizo and Shina Ota took Portland, was in 1921 “Th e only Japanese daily newspaper over the tofu business at 86½ North 5th St.; this may have in the state.” It might contain early articles about or been when aburage and konnyaku started being made at the advertisements by the tofu company. Eileen then gives details company. Th ey continued making tofu at that address until for listings she has discovered for “Ohta” in Caucasian-run 1941 or early 1942, when they were interned during World Polk’s Portland City Directory, from 1915 to 1950. Soy is fi rst War II at the Minidoka relocation camp in southeastern mentioned in 1950. Idaho. Matsuno was spared the hard life of the camp, since Where did Ota Tofu-ten get its soybeans in 1918? she was in Japan going to school when the war started; Probably from S. Ban and Company of Portland. Th ere is a she stayed in Japan until the war ended in 1945. Saizo [the half-page ad in Polk’s Portland City Directory for “S. Ban and husband] died on 1 April 1943 in the relocation camp. Aft er Company–Importers and Jobbers, 32-34 Th ird St., North, being released from the internment camp in 1945, Mrs. Portland, Oregon. Th e company’s president is Shinzaburo Shina Ohta returned to Portland to re-open her tofu shop Ban, who by 1911 (see Joseph Gaston. 1911. Portland, at its former location. Fortunately, the landlord had kept all Oregon: Its history and builders, Vol. 3) was “a leading the tofu-making equipment in good shape. But it was hard Japanese merchant and contractor of the Pacifi c Coast.” Born work for a single Japanese woman. She continued at the in Tokyo on 4 March 1854, he came to America in about 1891 same address for a few years. When the building was sold and took up residence in Portland. By 1911 he had branch to a new owner, she moved her shop to 322 N.W. Everett St. stores at Sheridan, Wyoming; Denver, Colorado; and Tokyo, in Portland. In 1981 the business again moved to its present Japan. By 1918 (and perhaps much earlier) he was importing location at 812 S.E. Stark St. in Portland. At that time the soybeans (as well as silk goods, tea, rice, etc.) to America. He company began making and selling soymilk. also owned saw mills and a shingle manufacturing company. In Oct. 1938 Matsuno Ota (a woman) and Sokichi Eileen encloses 3 photos from Matsuno Ota taken in Isoshima in Japan were married in Japan (in either Okayama about the 1930s: (1) Th e motorized grinder inside the tofu or Tottori prefecture), but they decided (probably at that shop. (2-3) Mr. Saizo Ota, standing behind a long black car

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 268 outside his tofu shop. A large awning covers the window of Otedori 2-5-1, Higashi-ku, Osaka. Address: Muso Co., Ltd., the tofu shop that faces the sidewalk. Address: Ota Tofu, 812 Kosei Bldg., 2nd Floor, Tanimachi 2-5-5, Chuo-ku, Osaka S.E. Stark, Portland, Oregon 97214. 540, Japan. Phone: 06-942-0343.

1157. Okada, Yuko. 1992. Re: Muso’s soymilk factory in the 1159. Okada, Yuko. 1992. How Muso Shokuhin brought USA. Importing organic soybeans to Japan. Letter (fax) to soymilk to America (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. July 15. William Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center, May 21. 1 p. [Eng] Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. • Summary: “Did you know that I have a soymilk factory in • Summary: Muso wanted to introduce Marusan’s soymilk the U.S.? It has been operating for almost 7 years. It was the in the foil retort pouch to the USA. Th ey began looking for fi rst soymilk company in the United States and is growing a major American distributor. First they off ered the product every year. Th e company is located in Michigan, where to Mike Potter of Eden Foods when Mike was in Japan, but most of the organic soybeans are grown.” Note: Th e author he was not interested because he did not think the product is probably referring to Muso’s 15% ownership in American would sell in America. Th en they off ered the product to Soy Products, Inc., whose plant at Saline, Michigan, began Jimmy Silver of Pure Sales; he thought it was a weird product. commercial operation in Nov. 1986. Th en they off ered it to Knudson, but Knudson was not Muso is also importing organic soybeans into Japan, and interested. Th en they off ered it to Matt Sandler, who also has already imported about 300 metric tons this year. Th e turned it down. use of organic soybeans in Japan is growing on the part of Th e fi rst place this soymilk really sold outside Japan was companies making shoyu, miso, tamari, tofu, etc. for Muso. in Australia; Jim Wilson, owner of Spiral Foods in Australia Address: Muso Co., Ltd., Kosei Bldg. 2nd Floor, Tanimachi started importing this soymilk (which was named Bonsoy) 2-5-5, Chuo-ku, Osaka 540, Japan. Phone: 06-942-0341. from Muso in about 1979, packaged in a foil retort pouch. Mike Potter met Jim Wilson at a natural foods convention 1158. Okada, Yuko. 1992. Re: History of Muso Co. Ltd. in Anaheim, California; Muso brought Jim Wilson to the (Muso Shokuhin) in Japan. Letter (fax) to William Shurtleff convention and arranged this meeting. Wilson told Potter at Soyfoods Center, July 2. 2 p. [Eng] that Bonsoy sold very well in Australia. Potter told Ron • Summary: Muso was formed as an establishment in Roller to go to Japan to check out this product–which Ron February 1966, and Yuko has worked for the company since did. Finally the product was launched at the NNFA show in that time. His current title is president of Muso Co., Ltd. for Denver, Colorado, under the name Edensoy by Eden Foods. Export and Import division, a position he has held for the Th e product named Bonsoy was fi rst sold (exported) last 6 years. Yuko fi rst went to the USA in April 1970. First by Muso to Spiral Foods in Australia in about 1979. Th en it he worked at the Erewhon retail store and at the Erewhon was sold to Bean Supreme in New Zealand in about 1981; warehouse as production manager and import manager. Bean Supreme had also promoted the Spiral Foods label. Aft er 2 years he began to manage a macrobiotic restaurant Th en it was exported by Muso to Urtekram in Denmark in [the Seventh Inn] for 2½ years as executive vice president. about 1988, and the it was exported to Mimasa in Spain in Aft er the restaurant had paid off all its debts, he returned about 1990. Address: Muso Co., Ltd., Kosei Bldg., 2nd Floor, to Erewhon as import manager, and was also in charge of Tanimachi 2-5-5, Chuo-ku, Osaka 540, Japan. Phone: 1. 06- determining the cost of all production. 942-0341. Yuko thinks that Muso began to ship foods to Erewhon in 1968. [Note: Kotzsch. 1984, Dec. East West Journal p. 14-21 1160. Okada, Yuko. 1992. How American Soy Products in states that Muso began to export foods in 1969.] Th e main Michigan came into being (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. July food items shipped during the fi rst year were shoyu (made 15. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. by Marushima Shoyu Co.), several types of miso (made by • Summary: Yuko says that he, not Michael Potter, brought Kanemitsu Miso Co. and Ohta Hatcho Miso Co.), black together the fi ve companies that formed American Soy soybeans, azuki beans, many types of sea vegetables and teas, Products (ASP), the maker of Edensoy in Michigan. Potter buckwheat noodles, umeboshi pickles, and takuan (daikon did not speak Japanese and he did not have the connections pickles). to pull together this sort of complex joint venture. Th e idea Th e following Westerners have worked for Muso over for the joint was developed jointly from Mike Potter and the years: Paul Hawken (March-Oct. 1969), James Docker Yuko Okada as Muso found itself shipping more and more (several months), Jim Ledbetter (several months), Evan Root soymilk from Japan to the USA. Th is soymilk was made from (several months), Tyler Smith (6 months), Steve Earle (4 American soybeans and it contained mostly water. Aft er the years). Only Americans have worked at Muso. concept was fi rm but before the fi nal papers were signed Muso moved to their present address in the Kosei by the fi ve partners, Bruce Macdonald played a role in the Building on 1 Dec. 1986. Th e company still maintains a process. An employee at a company with which Bruce was domestic distribution company at its former address at involved was a Filipino, who worked for Kawasho in New

York. Th rough this person, Bruce helped bring Kawasho Note: Before to joining the Chicago Tribune’s fi nancial into the deal, and without Kawasho, who was the source of department, Ron Yates spent 6 years as the newspaper’s chief fi nancing, the deal probably would not have happened. Asia correspondent, based in Tokyo. Kawasho was the last of the fi ve partners to enter into the agreement. Marusan and Kawasho would only enter 1162. Product Name: Marukyo brand Edamame: Frozen the agreement if Muso did. Kawasho knew nothing about Boiled Soybeans in Pod. soyfoods or the soyfoods market. Th ey were the company Manufacturer’s Name: Mutual Trading Co., Inc. that was least connected with the soyfoods industry and Manufacturer’s Address: 431 Crocker St., Los Angeles, CA market, but they were also by far the biggest company 90013. Phone: (213) 626-9458. involved in the venture, with roughly $2,000 million in Date of Introduction: 1993. May. annual revenues. In short, Muso became the key link in Ingredients: Soybeans. putting the ASP deal together. Address: Muso Co., Ltd., Kosei Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1 lb plastic (vinyl) bag. Bldg., 2nd Floor, Tanimachi 2-5-5, Chuo-ku, Osaka 540, How Stored: Frozen. Japan. Phone: 1. 06-942-0341. New Product–Documentation: Talk with, letter (fax) from, and Label sent by Atsuko Kanai at Mutual Trading 1161. Yates, Ronald E. 1993. Wisconsin’s other brew–Th e joy Co. (MTC). 2001. June 14. On 27 May 1993 MTC began to of soy: How a Japanese sauce company found a happy home distribute its fi rst edamame grown in the United States–from in Walworth, Wisconsin. Chicago Tribune Magazine. Jan. 31. Minnesota Edamame. Th e big problem in Minnesota was the p. 12-17. Sunday. Cover story. harvesting equipment. So the edamame that Mutual received • Summary: Gives a history of Kikkoman and tells how this from Minnesota were not of very good quality; the beans major Japanese company ended up building a soy sauce plant were too small and fell out of the pods. Aft er 3-4 shipments, in Walworth, Wisconsin (population 1,164). Back in 1615, MTC discontinued the product. in the Kansai plain region of Japan, the troops of Tokugawa Label: 7 by 10½ inches. Pre-printed plastic bag. Turquoise Ieyasu, founder of Japan’s last great feudal shogunate or blue, black, and white on clear plastic. On the front, the dynasty, have stormed the Osaka castle of rival warlord English product name is written in white on a turquoise Toyotomi Hideyori and have put him–as well as his family background in the upper left corner. Th e word “edamame” is and retainers–to the sword. Among those killed was the written vertically, in bold black and white Japanese characters warrior husband of a woman named Maki Shige; she was (hiragana), down the right side of the bag. On the back also marked for death by the shogun. Using her wits and are directions for cooking “delicious edamame” and “Th e resources, she managed to evade her pursuers. Along with edamame story.” her children, she slipped out of Osaka, journeyed some 300 miles across the Kansai plane to the Kanto plain, and settled 1163. Product Name: Kikkoman Tofu: Soybean Curd in the village of Noda, northeast of Japan’s capital at Edo (Aseptically Packaged) [Firm, or Soft ]. (now Tokyo). Th en Maki changed her name to Mogi and Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman International, Inc. began a new life as a rice farmer. By 1630 she had learned the (Importer). Made in Japan by Morinaga. art of brewing shoyu, or Japanese-style soy sauce. “Th e widow Manufacturer’s Address: 50 California St., Suite 3600, San Mogi’s soy sauce is especially coveted because of its quality.” Francisco, CA 94111. Phone: 415-956-7750. It is to this widow that the Mogi family, which founded Date of Introduction: 1993. November. Kikkoman, traces its origins. Ingredients: Water, soybeans, glucono delta lactone and An important part of the story is how Yuzaburo Mogi, calcium chloride (coagulating agents). who graduated from Columbia University in 1961 with a Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10.5 oz Tetra Brik Aseptic carton. degree in business administration, spearheaded Kikkoman’s How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. eff orts to build a factory in America; the plant was fi nished New Product–Documentation: Talk with Morinaga in June 1973, and by the end of its fi rst year of operation Nutritional Foods. 1994. March 18. Morinaga in Tokyo is it had produced 1.6 million gallons of soy sauce. Today, now making and packaging this product for Kikkoman. Th e as Kikkoman prepares to celebrate its 20th anniversary in fi rst batch arrived in the USA in Nov. 1993. Th e product was Walworth, the plant’s production has grown eightfold to 13 formerly packed in a foil retort pouch in a paperboard box. million gallons a year and Kikkoman now controls about 50% of the U.S. soy sauce market–ahead of its major rivals La 1164. Product Name: Mori-Nu Lite Silken Tofu [Extra Firm, Choy and Chun King. or Firm]. Kikkoman is the world’s largest manufacturer of soy Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. sauce. In Japan, Kikkoman has about 30% of the domestic (Importer). Made in Japan by Morinaga Milk Co. Ltd. soy sauce market–but here it must compete with some 2,500 Manufacturer’s Address: 2050 W. 190th St., Suite 110, other manufacturers. Torrance, CA 90504. Phone: 310-787-0200.

Date of Introduction: 1993. November. Manufacturer’s Name: Yamato Flight Kitchen. Ingredients: Extra fi rm: Water, soybeans, isolated soy Manufacturer’s Address: 1534 Rollins Rd., Burlingame, CA protein, gluconolactone, calcium chloride. 94010. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10.5 oz (297 gm) Tetra Brik Date of Introduction: 1994. May. Aseptic carton. Ingredients: Soy beans, salt. How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 8 oz. plastic tray with clear fi lm Nutrition: Per 3 oz.: Calories 35, calories from fat 10, total lid. Retails for $2.99 (1998/04–Safeway supermarket in fat 1 gm (2 daily value; saturated fat 0 gm), cholesterol 0 mg, Lafayette, California). sodium 80 mg (3%), total carbohydrate 1 gm (< 1%), protein How Stored: Refrigerated. 6 gm, calcium 2%, iron 4%. Percent daily values are based on Nutrition: Per ½ cup (76 gm.): Calories 90, calories from a 2,000 calorie diet. fat 4, total fat 5 gm (8% daily value; saturated fat 1 gm), New Product–Documentation: Ad (full-page color) in cholesterol 0 mg, sodium 85 mg (3%), total carbohydrate 3 Health Food Business. 1993. Oct. p. 37. “Mori-Nu. Th e lowest gm (dietary fi ber 8 gm [30%], sugars 2 gm), protein 9 gm. fat tofu in the world. Th e others are just plain tubby.” Vitamin A 4%, calcium 4%, vitamin C 4%, iron 8%. Percent Talk with Tom McReynolds of Morinaga. 1993. Oct. 14. daily values are based on a 2,000 calorie diet. Th is product will be launched on 1 Nov. 1993. Distribution New Product–Documentation: Label sent by Takuji Kimura. will start on Oct. 25. Th e product does not contain any 1994. Oct. 11. 2½ inches square. Self adhesive. Black on Nichii Soy Flakes (as is implied in a spot in Health Foods white. “Ready to eat. Remove seed and eat. No MSG.” Business, Oct. 1993, p. 64). As far as Tom knows, only White On 26 Oct. 1994 Tak Kimura works with William Wave and Tree of Life are presently using Nichii fl akes to Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center to make a point-of-purchase make tofu. Th e product contains both soybeans (grown in poster which reads: “Yamato Green Vegetable Soybeans Iowa) and isolated soy protein (from Protein Technologies (Edamamé). Ready to eat. Delicious as a snack or green International). Morinaga has purchased the video of Tom vegetable! High in protein–Higher than any other vegetable. Brokaw interviewing Hillary Rodham Clinton, they have Only 35 calories per 100 grams.” transcribed the parts about tofu and trying to work healthier Note–Chronology: 1994 May 27–Th is product was fi rst eating into the White House. Brokaw ends the interview by sold, to Whole Foods Market in Berkeley, California by Tak saying: Perhaps we’ll see tofu at a White House state dinner. Kimura, a food broker who pioneered the product. 1994 Morinaga is doing a news release on the subject. Dr. Dean Oct.–Th e fi rst local supermarket to carry this product was Ornish has already been invited to the White House to advise Mollie Stone’s, an upscale supermarket with six stores in the President Clinton on his diet. Ornish went in and spoke. San Francisco Bay Area. 1998 Feb.–Safeway supermarkets in Letter (fax) from Morinaga. 1993. Nov. 2. Mori-Nu Lite– Northern California become the fi rst large supermarket chain Extra Firm contains exactly 0.7 gm of fat and 36.6 calories to carry this product, again with Tak Kimura as the broker. per 84 gm serving, so that 17% of its calories come from fat. As of Feb. 1998, an 8-ounce pack (in a plastic tray with a clear Product (Extra Firm) with Label sent by Morinaga. 1994. fi lm lid) typically retails for $2.99. Feb. 5. 4 by 2.5 by 1.75 inches. Tetra Brik Aseptic carton. Talk with Tak Kimura. 2000. Jan. 6. Th is product is served Purple, yellow, red, and green on white. On front panel: on United Airlines. Th e product is packaged with a nitrogen “Only 1% fat.” On one side is a recipe for Vegetable Stir Fry. fl ush. Soyfoods Center Taste Test. Th e product has a very fi rm consistency the like white of a hard-boiled egg, and a very 1166. Kevin, Kitty. 1994. Th ree centuries of quality: bland fl avor. It’s natural for Japan-based Yamasa Corporation. Food Leafl et sent by Morinaga. 1994. Nov. 25. “See the Processing (Chicago) 55(7):24-28, 30-31. July. Lite!” “Mori-Nu Lite is the lowest fat tofu in the world. We • Summary: Th is is the fi rst of a series of two articles combined extremely low-fat isolated soy protein with rich in this issue about Yamasa, the world’s second-largest whole-bean soymilk, and then added only enough water to shoyu manufacturer. It focuses on Yamasa’s history, its maintain Mori-Nu’s creamy smooth texture... Mori-Nu Lite production facilities in Japan, and its decision to build a has no cholesterol, and with only 1 gram of fat per serving, shoyu manufacturing plant at Salem, Oregon, in the USA. you get the highest protein to fat ration (6:1) and less calories Th e company was founded in 1645 by Gihei Hamaguchi, of (35) than any other tofu.” Kishuu, who moved to Choshi to start shoyu production. Prices at Safeway supermarket in Lafayette, California. Yamasa has been manufacturing soy sauce at a single location 1995. Nov. 28. Mori-Nu (3 types): 11.9 cents/oz. Azumaya (200,000 square meters or about 50 acres in size) in Choshi Chinese style (fi rm): 7.5 cents/oz. Th us Mori-Nu Tofu costs for 350 years. Michio Hamaguchi, the current and 12th 59% more than Azumaya tofu. president of Yamasa, is the founder’s direct descendant. Choshi, located about 2 hours by train north of Tokyo, is on 1165. Product Name: Eda Mame (Boiled Soy Beans). the coast at the end of a small peninsula that juts into the

Pacifi c Ocean. Th e meeting at Choshi of warm ocean currents from the south and cold currents coming down from the 1168. Shurtleff , William; Aoyagi, Akiko. comps. north creates an ideal climate for making shoyu. Gihei 1994. Kikkoman and other major Japanese soy sauce Hamaguchi chose Choshi, above, all for its climate. manufacturers–Bibliography and sourcebook, 1645 to Today there are at least 2,600 shoyu makers in Japan. As 1994: Detailed information on 484 published documents of 1993, Yamasa had $3.3 million in capital, $320 million (extensively annotated bibliography), 46 commercial annual sales, 1,100 employees, and plants in Choshi, Japan, soy products, 45 original interviews (many full text) and and Salem, Oregon. A detailed description of the shoyu- overviews, 43 unpublished archival documents. Lafayette, making process is given, accompanied by color photos. Th e California: Soyfoods Center. 169 p. Subject/geographical fi nished shoyu is run into plastic bottles at the rate of 300 per index. Author/company index. Printed Aug. 8. 28 cm. [604 minute. ref] “When Yamasa set up the fi rst soy sauce lab in 1901 and • Summary: Shoyu or Japanese-style soy sauce is one of the started physico-chemical testing of soy sauce to preserve oldest and most important sauces or condiments in Japan. quality, it was the beginning of quality control for soy sauce.” Japanese speak of the “Big Five” manufacturers: Kikkoman Economics seems to be at the heart of the decision to Corporation, Yamasa Shoyu Co., Ltd., Higashimaru Shoyu, establish a shoyu plant in the USA. Th e Japanese yen has Higeta Shoyu, and Marukin Shoyu. In recent years other risen steadily in value against the dollar for the last 20 years, smaller companies have established a signifi cant presence in making Japanese exports very expensive. Th ere is a growing the Western world–especially San-Jirushi and Sendai Miso- demand for soy sauce outside of Japan and the U.S. market Shoyu. is now large enough to justify a production facility. Soybeans Th e origins of Kikkoman can be reasonably traced back and wheat and inexpensive in America. Salem, Oregon, to the year 1661, when Takanashi Hyozaemon XIX, whose seems ideal for Yamasa, not only for its climate, but also descendants manage Kikkoman today, began to brew shoyu because of its proximity to Japan, water quality, location near in the town of Noda, in today’s Chiba prefecture, about 30 the booming West Coast market [and far from Kikkoman miles northeast of Tokyo. Over the years and centuries, in Wisconsin], and excellent off ers from the state of Oregon Kikkoman has steadily expanded its share of the soy sauce and the city of Salem. It is Yamasa’s desire to have the plant market, in Japan and around the world, until today it run by an entirely American work force. A color photo shows dominates most markets in which it is sold, and makes–in Yamasa’s range of soy sauce products, including blends of our opinion–one of the world’s truly great soy sauces. soy sauce and citron or orange which are used for preparing Th is book is about those companies, their history, sukiyaki or tempura. Address: Assoc. Editor. development, and commercial products, and their rise to power in Japan and internationally. 1167. Ritchie, H. Russell. 1994. Coming to America: Japanese Th is is one of the most comprehensive books (and processor, Kentucky construction company forge global the most comprehensive bibliography) ever published friendship. Food Processing (Chicago) 55(7):33-34, 36. July. about Kikkoman and other major Japanese soy sauce • Summary: Th is is the second of a series of two articles in manufacturers. It has been compiled, one record at a this issue about Yamasa, the world’s second-largest soy sauce time, over a period of 19 years, in an attempt to document manufacturer. Yamasa’s new 65,000 square foot plant in the history of this subject. Its scope includes all known Salem, Oregon, will be fi nished this month (June) at a cost of information about these companies, worldwide, from 1645 to $24 million. It is being built by James N. Gray Construction the present. Co. of Louisville, Kentucky. Yamasa decided to build its fi rst Th is book is also the single most current and useful plant in Oregon because there is a very big demand for their source of information on this subject, since 64% of all records soy sauce in the USA, especially on the West Coast, and contain a summary/abstract averaging 114 words in length. because Salem has a temperate climate and high quality water Th is is one of more than 45 books on soybeans and very similar to those of Choshi. soyfoods being compiled by William Shurtleff and Akiko In 1992 Yamasa sold 1.3 million gallons of soy sauce Aoyagi, and published by the Soyfoods Center. It is based in the USA, all of it imported. When the new plant is in on historical principles, listing all known documents and full operation, it will be able to produce at least 1.7 million commercial products in chronological order. It features: 30 gallons a year. Sales of the product are already handled diff erent document types, both published and unpublished; through an established offi ce in Los Angeles, California. every known publication on the subject in every language– Color photos show: Th e front of Yamasa’s new plant in Salem. including 364 in English, 241 in Japanese (many with an An outdoor tank farm consisting of thirty-two 15,000 gallon English-language summary), 10 in German, etc.; 45 original tanks for brewing and thirteen 10,000 gallon tanks for storing Soyfoods Center interviews and overviews never before raw soy sauce (two photos). Th e wheat processing room published. Th us, it is a powerful tool for understanding the inside the factory. Address: Editor. development of these Japanese companies and soy sauce from

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 272 their earliest beginnings to the present. edamamé in Oregon as part of a joint venture, then is Th e bibliographic records in this book include 485 exporting the edamamé from Oregon to Japan. Th ey can published documents and 43 unpublished archival compete with imports from Taiwan because the soil in documents. Each contains (in addition to the typical author, Taiwan is dirty, and the country has a poor environment, and date, title, volume and pages information) the author’s black spots have been found on the pods. Address: 1810 “C” address, number of references cited, original title of all non- Farm Bureau Road, Concord, California 94519. Phone: (510) English publications together with an English translation of 687-2422. the title, month and issue of publication, and the fi rst author’s fi rst name (if given). 1170. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 1994. Re: Work with édamamé in Th e book also includes details on 46 commercial soy America. Letter to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center, Oct. products (mostly soy sauce), including the product name, 16. 5 p. Handwritten, with signature. date of introduction, manufacturer’s name, address and • Summary: Mr. Kimura was very encouraged to read phone number, and (in many cases) ingredients, weight, Soyfood Center’s Edamamé: Bibliography and Sourcebook. packaging and price, storage requirements, nutritional He was especially interested in the special report on composition, and a description of the label. Sources of Minnesota Edamamé. “Because, I myself, conduct demos, additional information on each product (such as references to averaging 1 hour, to 2 hours at the most, at natural food and summaries of advertisements, articles, patents, etc.) are stores such as Whole Foods, Bread of Life, Living Foods, also given. Andronico’s (Park & Shop), Berkeley Bowl & Monterey Details on how to make best use of this book, a complete Market (produce store) & am enjoying tremendous subject and geographical index, an author/company responses. Normally 1 out of 100-150 customers responds index, a language index, and a bibliometric analysis of ‘Yeah, I hate it!’ 99% of customers have never seen or tried it the composition of the book (by decade, document type, before, but once they eat edamamé, 50% buy. 1% normally language, leading periodicals or patents, leading countries, respond ‘I had it at Sushi Bar & always wanted to buy it but states, and related subjects, plus a histogram by year) are also did not know where it was available.’ included. Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, “As I briefl y explained to you on the phone, I’ve been a California 94549. Phone: 510-283-2991. food broker representing Sushi Vendors (5 vendors for each area like Yamato for Bay Area, Arigato for Marin County, 1169. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 1994. Edamamé in America etc.) for Price Costco but always feel what if something, (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Oct. 9. Conducted by William sometimes goes wrong. All I’m doing is keeping ‘all eggs in Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. one basket.’ Th en I came up with an idea that I must sell what • Summary: Mr. Kimura is a food broker representing the others or big companies do not sell. What? No way! But I Yamato Flight Kitchen (serving meals on airlines). He sells remembered well about you, roughly 20 years ago you wrote sushi to Price/Costco (Costco bought out Price Club in late a book on tofu which I still have and not many people paid 1993). He also demos and sells quite a bit of Yamato’s boiled, much attention to tofu in those days, the mid-’70’s, right? But packaged edamamé in California at natural foods stores what now? Every store carries tofu. Well then, what about Soy (such as Whole Foods Market, and Bread of Life), upscale Bean related products? I went to many natural food stores but supermarkets (such as Andronico’s Park and Shop), and other everyone had soy bean related products already. How about places such as Berkeley Bowl and Monterey Market (a huge soy bean before processing? Th e answer was very simple and produce market that is busier than Berkeley Bowl). Th e green obvious, ‘Eda Mamé.’ 1st I presented sample products to the soybeans are grown in Oregon by Nishimoto. Yamato buys Whole Foods buyer, & his response was he would carry and them frozen from Nishimoto, then boils them in salt water in authorize to retail out of one of 4 stores provided I conduct the pods. demo. So I did at Mill Valley where not many people know Tak sold his fi rst package of edamamé on Saturday, May me. It was kind of embarrassing at that time, early this year. 27, 1994 at Whole Foods Market in Berkeley, California. He On the 1st day, I sold out 40 packs of 8 oz size in just a matter remembers it clearly, because the store was almost empty. of one hour on Saturday. Th en I was told to bring twice as When he asked why, someone explained that it was the many the following Sat., which I did & sold in 1½ hours. Memorial Day weekend. His edamamé come in an 8 oz Not realizing that Mill Valley had diff erent demography package, are sold in the refrigerated produce section, have [demographics] from Berkeley, I was over confi dent. I a shelf life of about 5 days, and retail for $2.88. Nowadays, Presented this program to Andronico’s & attempted to sell he can oft en sell 30 packs per hour. On the product label is 80 packs on Friday at their Telegraph Ave. store. God! What written Yamato Eda Mame (Boiled Soy Beans). Many of the a disaster, only 24 sold in 3 hours. Th is yo-yo game went on buyers have tasted the product previously at a sushi bar. He & on & on but now Whole Foods still sells an average of 50 sees edamamé as a new trend in America. packs a day at 3 stores, except Mill Valley does 140 packs on He understands that Nishimoto is growing these Saturday and Sunday!

“Apart from what I did, this principal I represent is Japanese but by the famous British author Lafcadio Hearn interested in purchasing a vacuum injection packing (lived 1850-1904; Japanese name: Koizumi Yagumo), who machine, which costs roughly $70,000 from Italy. Of course, wrote Kaidan, a well-known Japanese-language book of ghost it’s not just for Eda Mamé but also for Sushi & Bento. Sushi stories. Gihei’s name became famous in London earlier than & Bento are not required to provide with nutritional facts in Japan. Note: Mr. Okamoto does not know when the 7th at this time but Eda Mamé need nutritional facts. I wonder Gihei Hamaguchi lived or what his relationship with Yamasa if our current label is accurate because it did not agree with was. Address: Senior Vice President, Administration, Yamasa your information... I would appreciate your advice before Corp. USA, 3500 Fairview Industrial Drive, Salem, Oregon Yamato goes into a new label printing which will be more 97302. Phone: 503-363-8550. like Azumaya’s tofu package fi lm.” Tak would also like to sell books by Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1173. Okamoto, Koji. 1994. Syllabus for MBA course at “Look forward to a happy and long lasting business Willamette University (Salem, Oregon). Salem, Oregon. 11 p. relationship with you & your organization... I treasure this Unpublished manuscript. [edamamé] book. Th ank you again!” Address: 1810 “C” Farm • Summary: Mr. Okamoto teaches an MBA course at Bureau Road, Concord, California 94519. Phone: (510) 687- Willamette University in Salem Oregon. In the syllabus, page 2422. 3 is titled “History of Soy Sauce Brewing and Yamasa. Th is chronology contains some interesting dates: 1647–Soy sauce 1171. Vlahandreas, Dawn. 1994. Brewing a soy-sauce plant in was fi rst exported from Japan by the Dutch. 1715–Heating Salem is a patient process. Statesman Journal (Oregon). Oct. of soy sauce started. 1885–Yamasa invented a western-style 19. p. 8B. sauce named Mikado Sauce. 1899–Yamasa’s 10th generation • Summary: A photo shows Koji Okamoto, senior vice president, Gihei Hamaguchi, established the Soy Sauce president, administration, for Yamasa Corp. USA, as he Research Institute in Choshi aft er he studied fermentation overlooks the outdoor fermentation tanks at Yamasa’s new in Great Britain. 1943–Yamasa started manufacturing plant in Salem, Oregon. “Yamasa has just fi nished the fi rst pharmaceutical ingredients. stage of its initial batch of soy sauce brewed in the United Page 4 discusses the Japanese soy sauce market. Total States. It’s a test run for 65,000-square-foot, $30 million production in Japan is 317.5 million gallons per year. Th e Salem processing plant, which opened in late July... Last market is saturated and the price has been stable for 20 month the company began processing with 20 tons of Illinois years. Th ere are 2,500 shoyu makers in Japan. Th e fi ve largest soybeans, 20 tons of Oregon wheat and 15 tons of California (Kikkoman, Yamasa, Higashimaru, Higeta, and Marukin) salt.” It takes 6 months until a batch of soy sauce to be ready. have 50% of the market. In Japan, 38% of shoyu is used in In April, 1995, Yamasa’s fi rst batch of soy sauce will be ready homes, and 62% is used in companies. In Japan, Yamasa for shipping. produces 33 million gallons of soy sauce per year, worth $400 million. It is the second largest soy sauce manufacturer aft er 1172. Okamoto, Koji. 1994. Re: New developments at Yamasa Kikkoman. Th e company has 1,100 employees, with branches Corp. USA in Salem, Oregon. Letter to William Shurtleff in 10 major cities including Tokyo, and $3,750,000 capital. at Soyfoods Center, Nov. 8–in reply to inquiry. 1 p. Plus Net income before taxes is $20 million per year. enclosures. Why has Yamasa expanded to the United States? Th ere • Summary: Fermentation of shoyu at Yamasa’s new plant in is a strong market in the USA. Th e yen is worth more and Salem began at the end of August 1994. Th e fi rst commercial more against the dollar, which makes imports from Japan product will be ready for sale in early April 1995. Th e average expensive. Salem has inexpensive soft water (1 cubic meter fermentation time of each batch will be 6 months. Th e name costs more than 15 times as much in Choshi as in Salem), of the product on the label will be Yamasa Soy Sauce. inexpensive energy (less than half the price of a kilowatt-hour An article that appeared recently in the Nikkan in Japan), and inexpensive labor. Land in Salem is extremely Kogyo Shinbun (7 Oct. 1994) describes how the 7th inexpensive compared with that in Japan. Th ere are no Gihei Hamaguchi protected nearby villagers from a tidal regulations on wheat in America. Th ere are no transportation wave by setting fi re to harvested rice straw. Aft er the tidal charges on materials and fi nished products to and from wave, realizing that in order to protect the villagers from Japan, and no import duty on fi nished products at U.S. ports future tidal waves, he would have to construct a strong (typically 3% FOB)–for shoyu sold in America. embankment, he did so at his own expense. Aft er the project Why Yamasa chose to build in Salem, Oregon: Water was completed, the villagers proposed building a shrine that is of good quality and inexpensive. An enterprise zone from him. He, of course, turned down their request. Th e with a 3-year property tax exemption. Local government & embankment still remains solid and protects the villagers at Sedcor were very enthusiastic and cooperative. Receptive Arita-gun, Wakayama-ken, Japan. Gihei wanted to conceal food processing industries. Good plant location. Salem is his act of setting fi re. His kind act was discovered not by a located far away from Kikkoman, a strong competitor in

Walworth, Wisconsin; Kikkoman’s U.S. production rose from 1996. 1.59 million gallons in 1973 to 23.81 million gallons in 1993. Easy access to freeway north and south. Seaport and airport 1176. Yamasa Corporation U.S.A. and its new soy sauce plant available nearby. in Salem, Oregon (Photographs). 1995. Th e U.S. investment. In June 1992 Yamasa Corp. USA • Summary: Th ese six black-and-white photos were sent to was formed as a subsidiary of Yamasa, Japan. Investment: Soyfoods Center in April 1995 by Koji Okamota (Senior Vice $30 million. Number of employees: 40. Sales and marketing President, Administration, Yamasa Corp. USA, 3500 Fairview offi ce: In Los Angeles, California. Breakdown of investment: Industrial Drive, Salem, Oregon 97302). Each glossy photo is Land, 25 acres, $650,000; Building, 65,000 square feet, $6.5 5 by 7 inches. Four photos show the equipment inside the soy million; Machinery $15.0 million; Furniture and fi xtures sauce plant. Two photos show a large semitrailer (16 wheeler) $500,000. Th e keys to survival (11 points). What Japanese leaving the plant. On one side is written in large letters: “Here management expects from U.S. management (11 points, incl. goes another shipment of U.S. made Yamasa Soy Sauce.” On “Learn foreign languages,” and “Don’t forget to say ‘sorry’”). the left and write of the sentence is the Yamasa logo. Address: Senior Vice President, Administration, Yamasa Fermentation of shoyu at Yamasa’s new plant in Salem Corp. USA, 3500 Fairview Industrial Drive, Salem, Oregon began at the end of August 1994. Th e fi rst commercial 97302. Phone: 503-363-8550. product was ready for sale in early April 1995. Th e average fermentation time of each batch will be 6 months. 1174. Yamasa Corporation U.S.A. 1994. Yamasa Corporation U.S.A. (Brochure). Choshi, Japan. 4 p. 21 x 21 cm. [Eng] 1177. Yamasa Corporation USA. 1995. Yamasa press kit • Summary: Th is glossy color brochure gives basic (Portfolio with news release and photos). Salem, Oregon: information about Yamasa in the USA and Japan. In Salem, Yamasa Corporation USA. Ten inserts. April 14. 30 cm. Oregon, Yamasa Corporation U.S.A. is located on a 25-acre • Summary: On the cover of this purple portfolio is a gold site. Floor area of plant: 65,000 square feet. Initial production seal (2.75 by 1.75 inches) bearing the Yamasa name and capacity: 1.7 million gallons per year of soy sauce. Production logo. Th e ten documents enclosed in this portfolio include: began: Summer 1994. Distribution will begin: Spring 1995. A (1) A two-page news release titled “First shipment of U.S. color photo shows the front of the plant. manufactured Yamasa soy sauce.” Yamasa Corporation U.S.A. In Choshi, Japan, Yamasa Corporation is located at 2-10-1 has recently begun shipping U.S. made soy sauce from its Araoicho, Choshi, Chiba prefecture 288, Japan. President: Salem, Oregon, facility. Yamasa is the world’s second largest Michio Hamaguchi. Founded: 1645. Items produced: Soy manufacturer of soy sauce. Mr. Yuzo Seki is director and sauce, fl avor enhancers, liquid seasonings, pharmaceuticals, manager of the production department of Yamasa Japan. diagnostics, fi ne chemicals. Yamasa in Japan will celebrate (2) Six black-and-white photos (each 7 by 5 inches) its 350th anniversary in 1995. In 1957 Yamasa invented showing the inside and outside of the Yamasa plant at Salem. a 5’IMP/5’GMP (IG) production method for a new type A business card from Koji Okamoto, Senior Vice of fl avor enhancer through enzymatic degradation of President, Administration & Finance, Yamasa Corporation ribonucleic acid (RNA). Yamasa IG is now exported to food U.S.A. Address: 3500 Fairview Industrial Drive, Salem, manufacturers around the world. Th e RNA degradation Oregon 97302. Phone: 503-363-8550. technology is also recognized as new biotechnology. A color aerial photo shows the Yamasa complex at Choshi. 1178. Zoller, Stephen. 1995. New developments at San-J Page 3 shows a fl owchart of the process for manufacturing (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. May 1. Conducted by William soy sauce. Th e terms koji and moromi are used. Address: Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Choshi, Japan. • Summary: San-J recently expanded its soy sauce production capacity by 75%. Th e company is doing well. Th ey still use 1175. Product Name: Cold Mountain Fermented Black Bean Gauger & Silva Inc. as their advertising fi rm. Th eir account Paste [Regular, or Dehydrated]. executive is Kim Marcus. Address: Vice President and Manufacturer’s Name: Miyako Oriental Foods, Inc. General Manager, San-J International Inc., 2880 Sprouse Dr., Manufacturer’s Address: 4287 Puente Ave., Baldwin Park, Richmond, Virginia 23231. Phone: 804-226-8333. CA 91706. Date of Introduction: 1995. April. 1179. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 1995. Update on edamamé in Ingredients: Black soybeans, rice, salt, water, Aspergillus America (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. June 18. Conducted by oryzae. William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. New Product–Documentation: Portfolio sent by Terry • Summary: Mr. Kimura is a food broker, who demos and Shimizu of Miyako Oriental Foods. 1999. Nov. 22. Talk sells quite a bit of Yamato’s boiled, packaged edamamé in with Terry Shimizu. 1999. Nov. 29. Th e regular product was California. Interest in and orders for edamamé are growing introduced in April 1995, and the freeze-dried form in June rapidly. Mrs. Gooch’s plans to carry the product in all of

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 275 their stores. In northern California it is sold at 7 Whole June 14. Th ese edamame were fully cooked by boiling in Foods Markets (incl. 2 Bread of Life, which Whole Foods lightly salted water, then packed and sold frozen. One case just purchased), at Living Foods (recently bought out by was 24 x 16 ounce bags. Th e idea of selling edamame fully Wild Oats), at 6 Andronicos (4 in Berkeley), Tower Market cooked originated in Japan. Th e word “Hanjo” means “brisk (1 store), Monterey Market (in Palo Alto), Cala Foods in business” in Japanese. MTC chose to sell shio-yude (literally San Francisco (in 5 of their 26 stores). When Mr. Kimura “salt-boiled”) under the Hanjo brand to distinguish it from is invited to do a “road show” and set up in front of a store the Miyako brand and so it would not cannibalize the Miyako (recently at 19 Price/Costco locations), he easily sells 100 brand. packs a day. Yamato has only an 8-ounce size, but many Label sent by Atsuko. 2001. June 18. 10½ by 7 inches. customers want a 1 pound size. It comes in a vacuum pack Plastic bag. Green, white, black, red, and yellow. A large color with nitrogen, but the fi lm is not strong enough to allow ten photo shows a bamboo basket full of edamame (in their packs to be stacked. Address: 1810 “C” Farm Bureau Road, emerald green pods). “Fully boiled. No cooking required. Concord, California 94519. Phone: (510) 687-2422. Please keep frozen until use.” All the text is in both English and Japanese. On the back us a USDA Food Guide Pyramid. 1180. Product Name: SJ Grilling Sauce. “Vegetable group. Suggests: Eat 3 to 5 servings of vegetables Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. daily.” Th ree ways to defrost: Naturally (let sit out for 1 hour), Manufacturer’s Address: 2880 Sprouse Dr., Richmond, VA under running water (for 3-4 minutes), or microwave oven 23231. Phone: 804-226-8333. (defrost mode for 9-10 minutes). Product of China. Date of Introduction: 1995. June. Ingredients: Incl. tamari soy sauce, tomatoes, honey, spices. 1182. Product Name: Kikkoman Goyogura Shoyu. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10 oz bottle. Retails for $2.89 to Manufacturer’s Name: Corti Brothers (Marketer- $3.29. Distributor). Imported by Golden Pacifi c International. Made How Stored: Shelf stable. in Noda, Japan, by Kikkoman Corp. New Product–Documentation: Press Release sent by Kim Manufacturer’s Address: Corti Bros.: 5810 Folsom Blvd., Markus of Gauger & Silva. 1995. June 26. “San-J blends Sacramento, CA 95819. Phone: 916-736-3800. East and West with new SJ Grilling Sauce.” Th e new sauce Date of Introduction: 1995. September. combines two favorite cooking fl avors–tamari and tomato– Ingredients: Soy beans [Whole, grown in Japan], wheat, salt. for a grilling sauce with an Asian twist. It can also be used for Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 8.3 oz (250 ml) glass bottle. marinading, stir-fry, and barbecues and “is a perfect addition How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. to meat, fi sh, chicken, and vegetables.” “A subsidiary of San Nutrition: Per 1 tablespoon (15 ml): Sodium 890 mg. Jirushi, the world’s largest brewer of tamari soy sauce, San-J Calories 10. Protein 1 gm. opened the fi rst tamari brewing plant in the United States in New Product–Documentation: Sample (product with 1987.” Label) sent by Darrell Corti of Corti Brothers in Sacramento. Spot with photo in NFM’s New Product Review. 1995. Talk with Darrell Corti. 1996. His company started selling Fall. p. 4. “San-J International.” Th e product is certifi ed this product in Sept. 1995. Corti Brothers is presently the kosher by Organized Kashruth Labs. only company in America where one can buy this high- Press Release from Meghan O’Shea of Gauger & Silva. quality natural shoyu. Jennifer Brennan says “Purveyors 1996. March 25. “Here comes summer!” Th e product is called by appointment to the Imperial Household.” Imported “San-J International’s new SJ Grilling Sauce” even though it is by Golden Pacifi c International, 1580 Tennessee St., San 9 months old. Francisco, California 94107.

1181. Product Name: Hanjo Shio-yude Edamame: Young 1183. Product Name: Mori-Nu Mates Chocolate Pudding & Soybeans Boiled in Lightly Salted Water (in the Pods) Pie Mix. (Frozen). Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. Manufacturer’s Name: Mutual Trading Co., Inc. Imported Manufacturer’s Address: 2050 W. 190th St., Suite 110, from China. Torrance, CA 90504. Phone: 310-787-0200. Manufacturer’s Address: 431 Crocker St., Los Angeles, CA Date of Introduction: 1995. September. 90013. Phone: (213) 626-9458. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 3.75 oz (105 gm). Date of Introduction: 1995. July. How Stored: Shelf stable. Ingredients: Soybeans. New Product–Documentation: Ad (full-page color) in Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1 lb plastic (vinyl) bag. Natural Foods Merchandiser. 1995. Sept. p. 107. “Made for How Stored: Frozen. each other. Introducing new Mori-Nu Mates.” Blend one New Product–Documentation: Talk with and letter (fax) packet of this mix with one package of Mori-Nu Lite Tofu to from Atsuko Kanai at Mutual Trading Co. (MTC). 2001. make a rich and creamy, low fat chocolate mousse.

into a very successful enterprise. Address: President, Mutual 1184. Product Name: Tree of Life Tamari, and Shoyu. Trading Co., 431 Crocker Ave., Los Angeles 90013. Manufacturer’s Name: Tree of Life, Inc. (Marketer- Distributor). Made in Richmond, Virginia, by San-J 1187. House Foods America Corporation. 1996. Report 1996. International. Tokyo, Japan. 14 p. 28 cm. [Eng] Manufacturer’s Address: St. Augustine, FL 32084. • Summary: A colorful English-language annual report. Date of Introduction: 1995. October. Contents: Corporate philosophy. Financial highlights. To Ingredients: Incl. organic soybeans. our shareholders, from Kunihiko Otsuka, President (June How Stored: Shelf stable. 1996). Product information. Overseas activities (with world New Product–Documentation: Spot with photo in NFM’s map). Domestic company facilities (with map). Balance sheet. New Product Review. 1995. Fall. p. 6. “Tree of Life” has Income statement / appropriation. Of retained earnings. introduced domestically made Organic Wheat Free Tamari Board of directors. Company history. and Organic Shoyu. Both new products are made with For the ear ended March 31, 1996, the following are in organic soybeans. Th e tamari has the sodium content U.S. dollars: Sales: $1,713 million (down from the peak in reduced by 25%. 1994). Net income (profi t): $75.12 million (down from 1994 and 1995). Net income per share: $0.659 (down from the 1185. Product Name: Th ai Peanut Dressing, Honey Curry peak in 1994). Company history: 1913 Nov. 13–Company Dressing, and Tamari Mustard Dressing. founded by Seisuke Urakami, the fi rst president, who started Manufacturer’s Name: San-J International, Inc. Urakami Shoten as an enterprise dealing in herbal medicine Manufacturer’s Address: 2880 Sprouse Dr., Richmond, VA supplies in Osaka, Japan. 1926–Production and sales of curry 23231. Phone: 804-226-8333. began. 1947–Th e business was incorporated under the name Date of Introduction: 1996. February. Urakami Ryoshoku Kogyosho, Ltd., with an initial capital Ingredients: Tamari-Mustard (4/96): Water, honey, carrot of ¥197,500. 1949–Firm name was changed to House Curry puree, certifi ed organic tamari soy sauce (water, soybeans, Urakami Shoten Ltd. 1954–Tokyo offi ce opened. 1960–Firm salt, alcohol), apple cider vinegar, onion puree, mustard seed, name was changed to House Food Industrial Co., Ltd. (House mustard fl our, garlic, onion powder, xanthan gum, white Shokuhin Kogyo). Indian curry introduced. 1963–Vermont pepper. curry introduced. 1971–Stock fi rst listed on both Tokyo and Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 12 oz glass bottle. Suggested retail Osaka Stock Exchanges. 1973–Introduced House Hontofu, an price: $3.49. instant tofu to be made at home by adding GDL to powdered How Stored: Shelf stable. soymilk. 1981–Los Angeles offi ce established. 1983–Curry New Product–Documentation: Press release from Gaugher House restaurant specializing in curry opened in Los & Silva. 1996. Feb. 1 “San-J takes a new course and creates Angeles. 1983–Purchased a share of a tofu company in Los unique salad dressings: World’s largest tamari soy sauce Angeles, renamed House Foods & Yamauchi, Inc. 1993–Firm brewer enters salad market with exotic fl avors.” “Th ese three name was changed to House Foods Corporation. all natural low fat and fat free dressings mark San-J’s fi rst Note: On 2 April 1997 House Foods Corporation was entry into the salad dressing market.” Product with Label sent selling for about $12 per share; the minimum purchase was as a free sample by Gaugher & Silva. 1996. April 20. Back, 1,000 shares. Address: 5-11, Nihonbashi Honcho 2-chome, yellow, orange and gold on white. “Fat free. All natural.” Chuo-ku, Tokyo 103, Japan. Phone: (03) 3243-1231. Leafl et (8½ by 11 inches, glossy, color). 1996. Dec. 10. “Lettuce inspire you.” Shows Tamari Mustard Dressing being 1188. Little Tokyo Service Center. 1996. First annual L.A. poured from a glass bottle onto salad ingredients in a wok. Tofu Festival. August 10-11, 1996. Los Angeles, California. 22 Also shows bottles of Honey Curry Dressing and Th ai Peanut p. Illust. 28 cm. Dressing. Th e ingredients in each of the 3 dressings are listed • Summary: Th is program gives details about tofu and the on the back of this leafl et. Accompanied by a “Lettuce inspire festival, whose main sponsor was House Foods Corporation you” “neckhanger,” which contains 4 coupons (for various (Hinoichi Tofu). Details are given on each of the participating San-J products) and 4 recipes. restaurants, incl. Beverly Soon Tofu Restaurant (established in Los Angeles June 1986). Address: Little Tokyo Service 1186. Ichikawa, Takashi. 1996. Seikôhô no chakusô: Kanai Center (Resource Development Center), 231 East 3rd St., Los Noritoshi no bijinesu rinen to shoku no nichibei-shi [Th e Angeles, California 90013. Phone: 213-473-1600. concept of the frontal attack: Noritoshi Kanai’s business theory and U.S.-Japan food history]. Tokyo: Sangokan. 254 p. 1189. Demetrakakes, Pan. 1996. Quality for the ages: A Illust. No index. 20 cm. [Jap] centuries-old brewing process is helping Kikkoman stake out • Summary: Th is is a very interesting history of Mr. Noritoshi the quality niche of the soy sauce market. Plant report. Food Kanai and Mutual Trading Co. in Los Angeles, which he built Processing (Chicago) 57(9):61-62, 65-66. Sept.

• Summary: At Walworth, Wisconsin, Kikkoman now makes Soyatech–Peter Golbitz, Soyfoods Center–Bill Shurtleff , 18 million gallons/year of soy and other sauces–using 300 Apple Valley Market–Gary Pappendick, Essene–Howard fermentation tanks. Most of the 134 employees work on the Waxman, Sevananda–Vince Hoff man. Address: Executive plant’s six packaging lines. Th e company makes 18 diff erent Director, Soyfoods Assoc. of North America, P.O. Box 3179, products, and all but one (kotterin) use a soy sauce base. Walnut Creek, California 94598. Phone: 510-935-9721. Kikkoman is well positioned to take advantage of two of the biggest trends in American eating habits: (1) Growing 1191. Product Name: Mori-Nu Tofu–Silken Style [Firm, interest in ethnic–especially Asian–cuisine, and (2) Th e Extra Firm, Soft ]. rising popularity of eating out; more than half of America’s Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. food dollars are now spent on food prepared outside the (Product Developer-Distributor). home. Both the foodservice and the industrial markets have Manufacturer’s Address: 9960 S.W. Potano, Tualatin, OR become major users of Kikkoman products. “Kikkoman’s 97062. Phone: 503-692-3498. main competition is lower-quality, acid-hydrolyzed soy Date of Introduction: 1997. February. sauce [which is not fermented]. Th is competition is perhaps Ingredients: Firm and extra fi rm: Water, soybeans, isolated most acute in the retail market, whose buyers tend to be less soy protein, gluconolactone (a non-dairy coagulant derived sophisticated than food professionals.” Kikkoman stresses from food starch), calcium chloride. the superior color and fl avor of its “brewed soy sauce.” Th e Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 12.3 oz (349 gm) Tetra Brik shoyu-making process is described. Photos show: (1) Bottles Aseptic carton. Retails for $1.19 (1997/06, Lafayette, of Kikkoman soy sauce on the bottling line–Kikkoman’s California). most labor-intensive operation. (2) Some of the company’s How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. more than 300 fermentation tanks; a man on a ladder is New Product–Documentation: Product with Label climbing up one. (3) Th ree workers checking the quality of purchased at Safeway supermarket in Lafayette, California. a batch of soy sauce. A sidebar titled “An old tradition for 1997. June 16. Each package has a color photo on the front an aged sauce” gives a brief history of soy sauce. Kikkoman, panel and a recipe on one side. established in 1630, “boasts of being one of the oldest Talk with Art Mio of Morinaga. 1997. June 16. Th ese continuously operating food processing companies in the three products were fi rst sold commercially on Feb. 17. world. Soy sauce originated more than 2,500 years ago Th ey are made by a new company named Pacifi c Nutritional in China.” It came to Japan in about the 6th century with Foods, Inc., which is a joint venture between Morinaga Buddhism. In Japan “it was discovered that adding wheat to Nutritional Foods, Inc. and Pacifi c Foods of Oregon, Inc.; the soybeans would yield a richer, more mellow fl avor.” By the company’s sole purpose at present is to manufacture the 1600s, “soy sauce as we know it today had largely been aseptically packed tofu. developed.” Address: Senior Editor. 1192. Tanikawa, Harry. 1997. House Foods, America’s second 1190. Smith, Michelle. 1997. Members of the Soyfoods largest tofu maker, to open a new tofu factory–America’s Association of North America (as of 12 Feb. 1997). Walnut largest–on March 12 in Garden Grove, California (Interview). Creek, California. 1 p. Feb. 12. Unpublished typescript. SoyaScan Notes. March 11. Conducted by William Shurtleff • Summary: Th e Association has 35 paid members. Two of of Soyfoods Center. the companies (Devansoy and MLO Products) have two • Summary: Th e address of the new plant will be 7351 people listed from each company. Th e companies are: ADM– Orangewood Ave., Garden Grove, California 92841. Phone: Jack Painter, Eden Foods–Sally Gralla, Devansoy–Elmer 714-901-4350. Garden Grove is about 30 miles southeast of Schettler & Ed Pedrick, Lightlife Foods–Rick McKelvey, MLO Los Angeles–near Anaheim and Santa Ana. Products–Ed Cabelera & Ryan Schmidt, Pulmuone–Seung First a bit of history: In 1983, House Food Industrial Hoon Lee, SunRich–Allan Routh, Sacramento Tofu–Alvin Co., Ltd. of Japan purchased 50% ownership in Yamauchi Kunishi, American Miso–Don DeBona, Tofu Shop–Matthew Enterprises (formerly Hinode Tofu Co., owned by Mr. Shoan Schmit, Turtle Island–Seth Tibbott, Vitasoy–Yvonne Lo, Yamauchi) in Los Angeles. Th e company was renamed House Westbrae–Myron Cooper, American Soy–Tim Redmond, Foods & Yamauchi, Inc. A year or two earlier Mr. Yamauchi Clofi ne–Richard Eluk, International ProSoya–Dusty had changed his company name to Yamauchi Enterprises Cunningham, Monsanto–Molly Cline PhD, MYCAL–Terry (from Hinode Tofu Co.) because he was challenged by the Tanaka, Natural Products–Paul Lang, Pacifi c Soybean–Dan Hinode Rice Co. over use of the word “Hinode.” At this time, Burke, Alfred College–Charles Goubau, Ohio Soybean Harry was at Japan Food Corporation (JFC). Mr. Yamauchi Council–Jim Kapp, Iowa Soybean Association–Kirk Leads, asked JFC (since they were a big customer for his products) Iowa State University–Dr. Lester Wilson, Mark Messina PhD, for their advice concerning the best company and brand Nebraska Soybean Board–Stephanie Lynch, EMB Partners– names, from among several that had been suggested by a John Eastham, Nutrition Advantage–Anne Patterson R.D., research company. Mr. Yamauchi selected “Hinoichi” as a

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 278 new brand name, to replace “Hinode.” Th e “Hinoichi” brand Note: House Foods is the oldest existing Japanese- originated at this time. In 1993, House Foods Corporation American tofu manufacturer in the United States. Th e of Japan purchased the remaining 50% of House Foods & company traces it roots back to 1923 in Honolulu, Hawaii, Yamauchi, Inc. from Mr. Shoan Yamauchi. Th e new company when a company named H. Iwanaga Daufu was started. was renamed House Foods America Corporation. No news Aft er being purchased by Shoshiro Kanehori and then by release was issued at the time and no media stories appeared. Mrs. Haruko Uyeda, it was fi nally purchased in 1939 by Mr. Mrs. Yamauchi would probably know all the exact dates that and Mrs. Shokin Yamauchi, and later renamed Aala Tofu these things happened. Co. Mr. Shoan Yamauchi, the son, worked at the family shop Th e new plant will have three tofu production lines and in Hawaii, then in 1947 came to California with his wife, a capacity of 150,000 cakes of tofu, compared with 70,000 Shizuko. Th e former owners of Tomoi Tofu Co. (Mr. Tomoi for the previous plant. Th e plant size is about 130,000 square and probably a partner) had started Hinode Tofu Co. in feet on 5 acres of land–which gives plenty of room for March 1947 at Sixth St. and Towne Ave. in Los Angeles. Th ey expansion. House Foods bought the property. Mr. Yamauchi made 1,500 cakes of tofu a day. Mr. Shoan Yamauchi and his also used to own his parcel in downtown Los Angeles, at 526 wife purchased the company in late 1947. Later they renamed Stanford Ave., on the outskirts of Little Tokyo. Th e plant was it Matsuda-Hinode Tofu Co., then Hinode Tofu Co. Mr. located near Yohan and next to many very old, fi rst-time Yamauchi pioneered the packaging of tofu in plastic tubs with established Japanese manufacturers in that area. It was a a heat-sealed fi lm lid and was the fi rst to have his tofu sold bad neighborhood, with many drunks on the streets and it in U.S. supermarkets. For many years Hinode Tofu Co. was steadily got worse. the largest tofu maker in the USA. Address: National Sales Mr. Yamauchi no longer comes to work each day at the Manager, House Foods of America Corp., 7351 Orangewood tofu plant; he stopped coming to work in about August 1996; Ave., Garden Grove, California 92841. Phone: 714-901-4350. he is retired and just stays home with his family. Th e biggest upgrades at the new plant are the cooker, the 1193. Food Product Design.1997. Kikkoman kicks up new double-cool pasteurizer, and the cutting and packing. In the production facility. March. p. 22-23. old factory, the tofu went through a single-cool pasteurizer. • Summary: In February, Kikkoman International began First it moved through long a hot-water pasteurizing tank, construction of its second soy sauce manufacturing plant in and then through a cold lower pasteurizer, which would Folsom, California. Th e new facility, expected to cost $35-40 lower the internal temperature of the tofu to around 40ºF– million, will have an initial capacity of 2.6 million gallons/ which was above shipping or storage temperature. In the year of soy sauce. Th e fi rst product shipments are scheduled new factory, the tofu will pass through the hot bath, then a for the fall of 1998. room-temperature cold bath, then it will go down through a Kikkoman’s fi rst U.S. plant was built in 1973 in Walworth, very cold temperature bath at about 33ºF; it will come out at Wisconsin. Since that time the plant’s production of soy sauce the exact temperature desired for storage or shipping, which has increased tenfold. For the past decade, Kikkoman soy give the product a longer shelf life. All the tofu cutting and sauce has experienced double-digit growth in foodservice packing is now fully automatic. and industrial sales. House Foods would like to become the biggest tofu Kikkoman is a multinational corporation with sales of manufacturer in America. Th e new plant will give them the more than $2 billion per year and 4,250 employees. capacity to pursue that goal. House has the fi nances and determination to reach the goal. 1194. House Foods America Corporation. 1997. Completion On 1 April 1997 House Foods American Corporation will of new production plant: Th e company with the No. 1 tofu be formed as a merger of three diff erent companies that were production capability in the U.S.–House Foods America established in Los Angeles: (1) House Foods Corporation in Corporation (News release). 7351 Orangewood Ave., Garden Torrance was an importer of spices manufactured in Japan Grove, California 92841. 2 p. March. by House Foods of Japan. Th ey also exported some raw • Summary: “House Foods America Corporation held a material; (2) Curry House America, a restaurant division ceremony on March 12 celebrating the completion of its new with fi ve Curry House restaurants in the Los Angeles area (in production plant, which had been under construction in the Little Tokyo, Torrance, Cypress, Gardena, and Beverly Hills). city of Garden Grove, California. (3) Th e tofu manufacturer and seller of tofu. House Foods “House Foods America Corporation was established America Corporation will then be a subsidiary of House in 1983 when House Foods Co., Ltd. (President: Kunihiko Foods Corporation of Japan. Otsuka) bought an interest in a U.S. company located in Los House Foods issued a news release in which it claimed to Angeles. House Foods America became a wholly owned be the largest tofu manufacturer in the USA, with 60% of the subsidiary of House Foods Co. in 1993, and is currently domestic market. Th is was supposed to read 60% of the Los engaged in the production and distribution of various tofu Angeles market–which is true. and soybean products under the brand name ‘Hinoichi,’

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 279 which has nearly a 60 percent share of the domestic market.” locks out light, oxygen and microorganisms which can lead Th e area of the land is 221,646 square feet. Th e total to spoilage. Guaranteed quality. Always tastes freshly made. fl oor area is 128,746 square feet, including the fi rst fl oor No preservatives. No irradiation. Refrigeration not required (production facility, warehouse, etc.) of 98,464 square until opened. Also available in extra fi rm.” feet, and second fl oor (offi ces, etc.) of 30,382 square feet. Production capability: 150,000 cakes/day of tofu, vs. 70,000 1197. Pancrazio, Angela Cara. 1997. Th e business of being cakes/day in old plant. Investment: $21 million, including a family: Ties of blood bind the people who built and work price of buying the land. Production will start in April at Ota Tofu, and those ties are what kept the company alive 1997. Contact: Mr. Akio Watanabe. Address: Garden Grove, and thriving, even through the war. Oregonian (Portland, California. Phone: (714) 901-4350. Oregon). April 10. p. 1, 5. • Summary: Th e Ota family gave birth to their tofu business 1195. Miyako Oriental Foods, Inc. 1997. Cold Mountain around 1917 or 1918 (according to the memory of Matsuno Miso: A traditional taste of Asia to the modern world Ota, age 80) on Northwest Fift h Avenue, between Everett and (Leafl et). Baldwin Park, California. 6 panels. 22 x 10 cm. Flanders. Address: 4287 Puente Ave., Baldwin Park, California 91706. Note: Actually the Ota Tofu Shop was founded in 1911 Phone: 818-962-9633. at 266 Davis St., Portland, Oregon. By 1912 the address was 96 N. 5th St., by 1913 it had changed to 86 North 5th St., and 1196. Product Name: Mori-Nu Silken Tofu–Lite [Firm, or by 1914 it was located at 86½ North 5th St.–all in Portland’s Extra Firm]. Japantown. Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. For decades the family business, though small, thrived. Manufacturer’s Address: 9960 S.W. Potano, Tualatin, OR Shortly aft er the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor on 7 97062. Phone: 503-692-3498. December 1941, Shino and Saizo Ota (like many other Date of Introduction: 1997. March. Americans of Japanese descent living on the West Coast) Ingredients: Lite fi rm: Water, soybeans, isolated soy protein, were shipped to the Minidoka internment camp in the high gluconolactone*, calcium chloride. * = Gluconolactone is a desert of southern Idaho. High fences surrounded stark non-dairy coagulant derived from food starch. wooden buildings. But their daughter, Matsuno, was in Japan Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 12.3 oz (349 gm) Tetra Brik going to school when the war started, and its wasn’t until the Aseptic carton. Retails for $1.19 (1997/06, Lafayette, fall of 1943 that a letter arrived from America. Her father had California). died on April 1, 1943. She got a letter from the Red Cross in How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. November 1943. In 1945 her mother returned from Portland. New Product–Documentation: Talk with Art Mio of “All through the internment, when it was popular to Morinaga. 1997. June 16. Th ese three products were fi rst show hostility toward Japanese people and other Asians, a sold commercially on March 1. Th ey are made by a new landlord’s gesture of kindness secured the family business company named Pacifi c Nutritional Foods, Inc., which is a and secured the tofu equipment for the Otas.” Shina, a single joint venture between Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. and Japanese woman, re-started the tofu shop at its former Pacifi c Foods of Oregon, Inc.; the company’s sole purpose location. “As business picked up, Matsuno and her husband, at present is to manufacture aseptically packed tofu. Th e Sokichi, came to Portland and joined the little company.” In building is located about 1 block away from the Pacifi c Foods 1957 a stroke forced Shina to leave the family business. “She of Oregon factory. was sick for 18 years.” Sokichi took her place. Product (Lite–Firm) with Label purchased at Safeway Color photos show: (1) A man cutting a large block supermarket in Lafayette, California. 1999. March. Tetra Brik of tofu under water in a cooling sink. (2) Matsuno Ota, a carton. 4 by 3 by 2 inches. Light blue, dark blue, purple, and grandmother who was born in Portland in 1916. At age 80+, red on white. “Low fat. 50% less fat and 33% less calories than she is the backbone of the tofu business. Her mother and regular tofu. See nutritional panel.” Recipe on one side for father, Shino and Saizo Ota, started selling tofu in Portland Strawberry banana shake. On back panel: “Free video–Why around 1917 or 1918. She holds a photograph of her husband, tofu? Includes latest nutritional research and 7 delicious Sokichi, her son Ko, and herself in their white aprons, inside recipes. Tofu & You, weight-loss plan and healthy eating their shop where they all made tofu. (2) Ko Ota, surrounded guide with 102 low fat recipes–28 featuring tofu ($14.95). by steam, as he watches soymilk run from the hydraulic press Free recipes.” Send a SASE to Mori-Nu. One side panel states: into the cloth-covered curding barrel. “New ‘Lite’ from Mori-Nu is the world’s fi rst truly low-fat tofu Note: Ota Family Tofu is now located at 812 S.E. Stark, with only 1 gram of fat per serving. Mori-Nu is a good source Portland, Oregon 97214. Phone: 503-232-8947. of cholesterol-free vegetable protein containing important soy isofl avones such as genistein and daidzein. It is low in 1198. Mutual Trading Co., Inc. 1997. Kyôdô Bôeki K.K. 70 calories, fat and sodium. Mori-Nu’s revolutionary package nenshi: Nihon no aji o sekai no hitobito ni [Mutual Trading

Company, Inc.–70 years of age: Taking the fl avor of Japan President, Japanese Chamber of Commerce of Southern to people around the world]. Los Angeles, California. 108 p. California. 1986–Mr. Kanai is chosen President, Pan Nov. 20. 28 cm. [Eng; Jap] American Nikkei Association of USA (PANA). 1988–Mutual • Summary: Th is excellent history of Mutual Trading Co. acquires management and shareholder control of Th e Cherry (MTC) is divided into two parts, each written in both Company in Hawaii from Kirin Beer. And Kirin becomes a Japanese and English. Part I is the general company history shareholder of MTC. (p. 1-32). Part II, titled “Chronological history of Mutual 1990–Representing the Japanese-American community, Trading Co., Inc.: 1926-1996” and containing numerous Mr. Kanai is invited to the formal coronation ceremonies for photos (p. 33-107), gives a chronology of the company in His Majesty Emperor Heisei of Japan. 1994–Th e government the context of major world events. Located in Los Angeles, of Japan commends Mr. Kanai for his lifetime services in Mutual was a pioneer in bringing Japanese foods to America. contributions bridging the Japanese and American cultures, 1926 April 19–Mutual Trading Co., Inc. is established bestowing on him Th e Order of the Rising Sun, Gold and when ten Japanese retailers in Los Angeles pool their Silver Rays. 1996 May–Mutual celebrates its 70th anniversary resources. Sadagoro Hoshizaki is the fi rst president. 1934– at the MGM Grand Hotel in Las Vegas. MTC’s annual sales top $500,000 for the fi rst time. Company profi le as of Dec. 1996 (p. 61). Annual sales: 1942–Under executive order 9066, Japanese-American $82.6 million. No. of employees: 199. Products in catalog: residents of Little Tokyo are forcibly evacuated and sent to 13,000 (of which 5,000 are food, 8,000 are non-food). MTC one of ten internment camps. Mutual Trading Co. is forced Group Affi liates: Tokyo Mutual Trading Co., Tokyo and to stop business. Mr. Hoshizaki spends the duration of Kobe, Japan. New York Mutual Trading Inc., Moonachie, World War II in the Manzanar Camp in central California. New Jersey. Th e Cherry Co., Ltd. Honolulu, Hawaii. Miyako Fortunately, all of MTC’s merchandise was safely stowed at Oriental Foods, Baldwin Park, Calif. Takara Sake USA Inc., the Maryknoll Church, a Catholic church in Little Tokyo. Berkeley, Calif. Urashima USA, Inc., Walnut, California. 1948–With a $1,000,000 letter of credit in his pocket, Address: 431 Crocker St., Los Angeles, California 90013. Hoshizaki headed to Japan as a trade Envoy to re-establish Phone: 213-626-9458. economic ties. He and Mr. Ishii formed Tokyo Mutual Trading Co.; for the fi rst time MTC had offi ces on both sides 1199. Product Name: Firm Tofu: Japanese Style Soybean of the Pacifi c. Cake. 1951–Mr. Noritoshi Kanai invested in MTC and joined Manufacturer’s Name: Azumaya Inc. the management team in Japan. 1956–Mr. Kanai traveled to Manufacturer’s Address: 1575 Burke Ave., San Francisco, CA the USA for the fi rst time to study the demand for Japanese 94124. Phone: 415-285-8500. foods. Date of Introduction: 1997. 1964–Mr. Kanai, with his wife and children, relocates to Ingredients: Water, soybeans, calcium sulfate, glucono delta Los Angeles to assume management of MTC from the ailing lactone. Mr. Ishii. 1968–MTC moves to a much larger warehouse at Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 14 oz (397 gm) packed in water in 431 Crocker St. in Los Angeles molded plastic tray with heat-sealed, peel-off plastic fi lm lid. 1970–MTC’s annual sales top $2 million. 1971–Predicting How Stored: Refrigerated. future strengthening of the yen vs. the U.S. dollar, and Nutrition: Per 3 oz (85 gm): Calories 60, calories from fat projecting increased needs for production of Japanese foods 20, total fat 2.5 gm (4% daily value; saturated fat 0 gm), in the USA, Mutual pursues plans to make miso and sake cholesterol 0 mg, sodium 0 mg, total carbohydrate 3 gm in California. 1975–Annual sales reach $10 million. 1976 (dietary fi ber 0 gm, sugars 0 gm), protein 6 gm. Calcium 15%, Jan.–In a joint venture with Yamajirushi Jôzo (of Maruko iron 4%. Percent daily values are based on a 2,000 calorie diet. Machi, Nagano prefecture, Japan), Miyako Oriental Foods New Product–Documentation: Product with Label (Yamajirushi Shinshu Miso of Los Angeles) is established purchased at Safeway supermarket in Lafayette, California. under the management of Teruo Shimizu. 1976–Noritoshi 1997. Dec. 7. 5.75 by 4.75 inches. Dark green, light green, Kanai becomes the fourth president of Mutual Trading black, white, and gold. Below the product name is written: Co. Richard Inaba is the chairman. 1977–Th e popularity “Soups, Salads, Fillings, Stuffi ngs.” Azumaya logo with 4 of Japanese foods in Southern California continues to rise; circles over the “Y.” In the lower left corner, above the UPC there are now 228 restaurants, 39 of which are sushi bars. indicia, the American Heart Association logo shows a white 1978–Mutual’s “Miyako” brands products debut at Ralphs, a check on a red heart: “Th is product meets American Heart 120-store supermarket chain in Southern California. Association dietary guidelines for healthy people over age 1982–Miyako Oriental Foods opens a new, 1,000 metric two when used as part of a balanced diet.” Text in lower ton capacity miso plant in Baldwin Park, California. In center of label: Pasteurized. No preservatives. Perishable. Berkeley, Takara USA begins producing Shochikubai Sake, Keep refrigerated. See back for nutrition information about with Mutual as a partial investor. 1985–Mr. Kanai is chosen saturated fat, cholesterol, and heart disease. Text in lower

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 281 right corner: “For free recipes, coupons or comments, Call section, in the pods, refrigerated, in a black plastic tray (6½ 1-800-Eat-Tofu. Net Wt. 14 oz (227 gm).” Retails for $1.39. by 8 inches by 1½ inches deep) with a clear fi lm lid and K Parve ORC. Th e back panel, green and black on white, nitrogen fl ush. Labeled “Edamamé (Boiled soy beans),” one contains a recipe for Tofu Stir Fry. 8-ounce pack typically retails for $2.99. Th e product typically has a 9-day shelf life refrigerated and is ready to eat. Safeway 1200. Product Name: Cold Mountain Eda-Mame (Boiled now buys about one palate (containing 840 eight-ounce Young Soybeans in Pods). packs) a week of edamamé from Yamato. Yamato buys most Manufacturer’s Name: Mutual Trading Co., Inc. Product of of its edamamé from JFC (Japan Foods Corp.) International China. (San Francisco), but sometimes from Nishimoto Trading Co. Manufacturer’s Address: 431 Crocker St., Los Angeles, CA (Los Angeles). Th e product is now grown mostly in mainland 90013. Phone: (213) 626-9458. China rather than Taiwan since most of the agricultural land Date of Introduction: 1998. February. in Taiwan is now thought to be badly contaminated with Ingredients: Young soybeans. mercury, left over from chrome plating operations. Th ey Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1 lb plastic (vinyl) bag. are imported frozen to the USA. Yamato (whose full name How Stored: Frozen. is Yamato Flight Kitchen) is located at 1534 Rollins Road, New Product–Documentation: Leafl et from Natural Burlingame, California 94010. Phone: 650-692-2315. Yamato Products Expo at Anaheim, California. 1998. March. A large has been in business for 48 years in California, If your color photo shows the front of the package. “Eda-mame Safeway store does not yet carry the product, tell the produce (Ed-dah-mah-meh): Boiled young soybeans in the pods. buyer and he will stock it for you. Jeunes fèves de soya entières bouillies.” Below that is the Tak introduced edamamé to Safeway as follows: In Oct. word “edamame” written in Japanese hiragana characters. 1977 Ms. Tin Rin Chew, a registered oncology dietitian “Microwaveable. Keep frozen.” Behind the package is a large from the Alta Bates hospital Comprehensive Cancer Center oval photo of edamame in their emerald green pods. (Berkeley, California), contacted William Shurtleff at Talk with, letter (fax) from, and Label sent by Atsuko Soyfoods Center and asked him to recommend good food Kanai at Mutual Trading Co. (MTC). 2001. June 11. Th is sources of soy isofl avones. One of those he recommended Cold Mountain brand edamame was launched on 15 Feb. most highly was green vegetable soybeans, and he gave the 1998. Atsuko believes it was the fi rst “all English” edamame dietitian Tak Kimura’s name. Ms. Chew faxed Tak Kimura package sold into the American marketplace. Th e Cold saying that some members of her center wanted Safeway to Mountain brand was designed for the American mass carry edamamé. On 17 Oct. 1997 Tak presented a copy of market. Th ere were 24 x 16 oz bags per case, imported from this fax to Safeway’s produce buyer, Mr. Dennis Takeuchi, in Taiwan. “Notice the resemblance to the Miyako brand? Th at’s Tracy, California. He had just returned from a trip to Hawaii, because we weren’t sure if Americans were ready for this. If where he noticed that edamamé was widely served as a side not successful, we’d sell to our Japanese restaurants without dish for beer (pupu) at bars and restaurants. He remembers their hesitating, because they’re already familiar with the thinking while in Hawaii that he would like to try selling Miyako-brand package.” In Dec. 2000 MTC introduced its the product via Safeway if he could fi nd a source. Voilà! “4-color print bag with the ‘heart-healthy’ claim.” Tak appeared. Moreover, it is Safeway’s philosophy that if a Label: 7½ by 10¼ inches. Pre-printed plastic bag. Red, consumer wants a product, they will do their best to get it. green and white on clear plastic. “All natural soybean protein. Talk with Larry, the produce buyer at Safeway in No cholesterol. Microwaveable.” On the back is an illustration Lafayette, California. 1998. March 3. Th is item is listed as a of a thumb and fi nger popping a green bean out of its pod. new product under “Soybeans edamamé fresh.” He will order Also a USDA Food Pyramid. an 8-oz pack for Bill Shurtleff . Address: 3616 Delancey Lane, Concord, California 94519-2357. Phone: (510) 687-2422. 1201. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 1998. Safeway in Northern California is now carrying green vegetable soybeans 1202. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 1998. Re: Current distribution (edamamé) (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. April 2. Conducted edamamé in the San Francisco Bay Area (Northern by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. California) and Los Angeles area. Letter (fax) to William • Summary: Mr. Kimura is a food broker, who demos and Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center, April 6 and 13. 1 p. sells quite a bit of Yamato’s boiled, packaged edamamé in • Summary: Tak Kimura is a food broker for both Yamato California. Interest in and orders for edamamé are growing Flight Kitchen (near San Francisco) and Sushi Boy (near Los rapidly. In early February of this year Safeway, the giant Angeles, owned by Mr. Yokota). Distribution for Yamato: supermarket chain in California, began to carry Yamato’s Direct accounts (retailers): Whole Foods (8 locations), Real edamamé. Th e product is shipped to their central warehouse Foods (4), Mollie Stone Market (5), Falletti’s Market (3), at Pleasanton and distributed from there to individual stores Sonoma Market (2 supermarkets in Sonoma city), Woodland that wish to carry it. Th e edamamé are sold in the produce Market (1 supermarket in Mill Valley), Andronico’s (8),

Safeway (260 available, but not all of them presently carry the reasonable price, he is quite sure that he could easily fi nd product). many buyers, such as Whole Foods, Veritable Vegetable, Real Direct accounts (distributors): Veritable Vegetable (all Foods, and others. Address: 3616 Delancey Lane, Concord, of Northern California), Carcione’s (major account is Raley California 94519-2357. Phone: (510) 687-2422. supermarkets in Sacramento area), North Bay (United supermarket and other supermarkets in Sonoma County), 1204. Product Name: Orchids brand Edamame (Frozen Tri-Valley (many independent supermarkets in Sonoma Boiled Soybeans in Pod). County), Green Leaf (hotels in Hawaii), VegiWorks (serves Manufacturer’s Name: Oriental Trading Co. (Importer- hotels and restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area). Distributor). Product of China. Distribution for Sushi-Boy, Inc., of Gardena, California, Manufacturer’s Address: 131 West Harris Ave., South San currently serving only Whole Foods (13 locations) in Los Francisco, CA 94080. Phone: 650-761-0226. Angeles area counties. Address: Kimura & Associates, Food Date of Introduction: 1998. June. Broker, 3616 Delancey Lane, Concord, California 94519- Ingredients: Soy beans. 2357. Phone: (925) 687-2422. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1 lb plastic bag. Retails for $1.85 (2000/01–California). 1203. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 1998. Selling green vegetable How Stored: Frozen. soybeans (edamamé) in the Los Angeles area (Interview). Nutrition: Per 1 cup (100 gm.): Calories 125, calories from SoyaScan Notes. May 18. Conducted by William Shurtleff of fat 32.4, total fat 3.6 gm (5% daily value; saturated fat 0 gm), Soyfoods Center. cholesterol 0 mg, sodium 0.5 mg, total carbohydrate 13.1 gm • Summary: Mr. Kimura is a food broker, who demos and (dietary fi ber 2.1 gm [0%], sugars 11 gm), protein 12.1 gm. sells quite a bit of Yamato’s boiled, packaged edamamé (green Vitamin A 2%, calcium 9%, vitamin C 6%, iron 3%. Percent vegetable soybeans = GVS) in California. Yamato buys these daily values are based on a 2,000 calorie diet. soybeans frozen in 1-pound bags from mainland China. In New Product–Documentation: Product with Label brought Burlingame, California, they open each little bag, boil the by Kazuko Aoyagi. 2000. Jan. 3. Th e plastic bag is 7.25 by soybeans in salted water (nothing else is added), package 8 10 inches. Red and green on white. Th e word “edamame” is oz. in trays with a nitrogen fl ush (to help preserve freshness), written in large red Japanese characters on the front panel. and ship them refrigerated to retail outlets. Below that: “Natural protein from fresh soybeans. Keep Interest in and orders for edamamé are growing rapidly. frozen.” Talk with Mr. Tanaka from Oriental Trading Co. He called to thank Bill Shurtleff for the idea of using “Palate 2000. Jan. 6. Th is product was introduced about 1-2 years ago, Pleasers” as a brand for his edamamé and sushi products. Last maybe about June 1998. Th e average retail price in California week he demoed edamamé at the Whole Foods Market in is $1.85 (range $1.69-$1.99). It is sold mostly at Japanese food Beverly Hills, California. In 3 hours on Saturday he sold 120 x stores in California. It is not salted during boiling, before 8 oz. packs (which was all he had!) at $3.59 each (the regular freezing, since some consumers do not like salt. Directions: price is $2.99). In 2 hours on Sunday morning he sold an “Put Edamame as is (in frozen form) in boiling water, adding additional 60 packs. Some customers bought 4-5 packs each. a little salt, and simmer for 5 minutes. Drain. Serve serve hot Th ey loved the fl avor and they were looking for convenient, or cold. Remove pods to eat.” Note: Th is product takes a long tasty ways to get soy into their diet. time to prepare. We think it would be much better if it was Frieda’s Finest, a big produce company based in Los simmered in lightly salted water before freezing. Angeles, recently ordered three 30-pound bulk samples. Last August Tak found a grower of organic edamamé near 1205. Yates, Ronald E. 1998. Th e Kikkoman chronicles: Sacramento named Short Night Farm, owned by the McAray A global company with a Japanese soul. New York, San brothers (P.O. Box 211, Dunningan, CA 95937. Phone: 916- Francisco & Washington, DC: McGraw-Hill. xviii + 206 p. 724-3434. Fax: 916-724-4339). Short Night hand-picked the Illust. Index. 24 cm. beans and shipped them to the Whole Foods warehouse, • Summary: Contents: Preface. Introduction. but they ended up spoiling. Any farmer who wishes to grow Acknowledgments. 1. Completing the circle. 2. From Osaka edamamé commercially must have three pieces of equipment: Castle to the Big Foot Prairie: A brief history of Kikkoman. 3. A harvesting machine (a cotton picker works well), a steam A global company with a Japanese soul. 4. Th ere’s no business blaster, and an instant freezer. Short Night is now getting this like shoyu business: A concise soy sauce primer. 5. Diversify equipment. Within 45 minutes aft er the edamamé are picked, or die: Kikkoman’s strategies for success. 6. Th e road to they must be washed and steam blasted then “instant frozen.” Walworth: Kikkoman’s big gamble on the Big Foot Prairie. Yamato now buys 200 cases/week from JFC. Trader Joes now 7. A soy sauce plant grows in the land of cheese. 8. A culture sells edamamé from JFC under a diff erent brand name, but of selective risk: Th e enduring secret of Kikkoman’s success. they are interested in selling an organically grown product. 9. High-tech fi refl ies and a trailblazing orange. 10. Soy sauce If Tak could fi nd a reliable source of organic edamamé at a meets cyberspace: Big changes on the road to the twenty-fi rst

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 283 century. 11. Conclusion. end of Sept.). Up 246.7%. For ten years, during the 1970s and 1980s, Ron Yates Up to 1997, Tak served only the San Francisco Bay was the business correspondent for the Chicago Tribune Area, but starting in 1998 he has been serving Trader Joe’s in Japan. He speaks Japanese. Th is book is generally well- (northern and southern California), Safeway, Costco, and written, but it contains a mixture of fascinating new insights Whole Foods and Wild Oats in Denver, Colorado. about Kikkoman plus a fair amount of questionable and Eff ective the end of this week, Tak will be serving Lucky undocumented information about Kikkoman’s origins and supermarkets in the San Francisco Bay Area. Also by the end early history–for example the story of Shige Maki and the of November, he will be serving Trader Joe’s in the Portland unchallenged idea that Kikkoman’s “roots can be traced back (Oregon) and Seattle (Washington) marketing area. In very to 1630” (p. ix). Page 53 states that shoyu kegs (taru) hold 18 early 1999, he will be serving Texas and Arizona. He will liters or 4.75 gallons. Questions about the Shige Maki story also be the broker for Bush Garden of Oregon, a processor are examined in a separate record. Address: Head, Journalism which will buy from JFC, and which will serve Trader Joe’s Department, Univ. of Illinois (Urbana). and Safeway in Portland and Washington. Th us he is selling mostly on the West Coast of the United States. 1206. Kikkoman Foods, Inc. 1998. Something’s brewing in Update: Talk with Tak Kimura. 1998. Nov. 16. Trader Joe’s Folsom: Invitation to grand opening of new Kikkoman plant started buying edamame from Tak about 6 months ago; Now in Folsom, California (Card). Walworth, Wisconsin. they are ordering $37,000/month from him. Address: Kimura • Summary: Th e opening ceremony for Kikkoman’s new soy & Associates, Food Broker, 3616 Delancey Lane, Concord, sauce plant in Folsom, California, will take place on Tuesday, California 94519-2357. Phone: (925) 687-2422. October 6, 1998, at 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. at 1000 Glenn Drive, Folsom, California. Th ere will be a buff et luncheon 1208. Product Name: Kikkoman Soy Sauce. and festivities immediately following the ceremony. Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman Foods Inc. Subsidiary of Th is invitation packet contains four pieces. (1) An Kikkoman Shoyu Co. Ltd. invitation card and description of the event (5 by 7 inches, Manufacturer’s Address: 1000 Glenn Dr., Folsom, California printed with brown ink on beige paper). “For over 350 years, 95630. Kikkoman has been producing the world’s fi nest soy sauce Date of Introduction: 1998. October. from soybeans and wheat, using a time-honored natural Ingredients: Water, wheat, soybeans, salt, sodium benzoate: aging process. Now, Kikkoman is bringing the process to Less than 1/10 of 1% as a preservative. California. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 10 fl uid oz (296 ml). “Mr. Yuzaburo Mogi, President and CEO Of Kikkoman How Stored: Shelf stable. Corporation, requests the pleasure of your company at New Product–Documentation: Kikkoman Corporation. a festive ceremony and luncheon to celebrate the Grand 1999. Annual report 1998. 30 p. “Corporate history (p. Opening of the new Kikkoman Plant in Folsom, California, at 27). “1998 October–Th e second manufacturing plant the plant site.” (2) A map show how to drive to the plant (off of Kikkoman Foods, Inc., in Folsom, California, begins highway 50). (3) A response card (RSVP). (4) An addressed shipments. return envelope. Address: Walworth, Wisconsin. 1209. Product Name: Mori-Nu Tofu Helper: Italian 1207. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 1998. Re: Annual dollar Herb Medley, Shanghai Stir Fry, Eggless Salad, or Garden wholesale sales of edamamé from 1994 to 1998 (projected). Scrambler. Letter (fax) to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center, Oct. 7. 1 Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. p. Manufacturer’s Address: 2050 W. 190th St., Suite 110, • Summary: Tak Kimura is a food broker representing Torrance, CA 90504. Phone: 310-787-0200. three edamame processors/vendors in the USA: Yamato Date of Introduction: 1999. February. Flight Kitchen (near San Francisco), Sushi Boy (near Los Ingredients: Garden Scrambler: Vegetable broth Angeles), and Golden Bowl (a Japanese restaurant in Denver, (maltodextrin, hydrolyzed soy, corn & wheat protein, Colorado). Each of these three buy from JFC (of South San soybean oil, soy lecithin), nutritional yeast, dehydrated Francisco), which imports frozen edamame. Th e following sulphur-free vegetables (potatoes, carrots, tomatoes, are wholesale amounts. To convert to approximate retail garlic, mushrooms, onions, bell pepper, cabbage, chives), fi gures, divide by 0.68. dehydrated soy sauce (wheat, soybeans, salt), unrefi ned cane 1994–$18,000. sugar, herbs, spices, sea salt. 1995–$64,000. Up 255% over the previous year. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 0.92 to 1.10 oz (26 to 31.3 gm). 1996–$88,000. Up 44.2%. How Stored: Shelf stable. 1997–$156,000. Up 77.3%. New Product–Documentation: Ad (full-page color) in 1998–$541,000 (projected, based on $406,000 through the Natural Foods Merchandiser. 1999. Feb. p. 19. “Help! Help!

My tofu needs help! Never fear–New Tofu Helper is here!” the government. All of their edamamé are harvested in the Each package contains a dry, all natural seasoning mix, meant fi elds by hand, but then the pods are sorted and cleaned using to be mixed with tofu. Th e front of each of the four packages high-tech equipment. Some of the pods are shelled to make is shown in color. Th is ad also appeared in Vegetarian Times mukimi edamamé. (March, p. 41). Samples (12-pack) of products with Labels JFC in south San Francisco is importing these edamamé sent by Art Mio of Morinaga. 1999. Feb. 26. 4.5 by 6.25 from China; JFC is expected to sell some of these edamamé inches. On the front of each packet is a color photo of the to Yamato and some to Seaside in Southern California. prepared product on a white background, with a hole near Tak recently heard from Veritable Vegetable in San the top center for hanging on a rack. “Ready in 15 minutes. Francisco a company has started growing edamamé about 30 All natural seasoning mix.” For example: Garden Scrambler. miles north of in San Luis Obispo, California. He contacted “Preparation time: 15 minutes. Mix package with 1/3 cup the owners, Jennifer Bradley-Lenet and her husband Chuck boiling water. Set aside for 5 minutes. Mash one 12.3 oz. Lenet, Seventh Heaven Organics, P.O. Box 644, Cayucos, package of fi rm silken tofu (Footnote: For best results, use California 93430. Phone: 805-995-1436. E-mail: Pacifi cfarm@ Mori-Nu Silken Firm or Silken Lite Firm Tofu) in a medium Yahoo.com. Th ey grew edamamé in 1998 on about 10 acres bowl with a potato masher or fork. Heat 2 teaspoons olive but did not grow them in 1999. oil in a medium skillet and add tofu. Sauté 1 minute over Also Dr. Mary Jo Wannamaker in St. Matthews, South medium high heat. Add the liquid spice mixture; cook, Carolina, grew some edamamé in 1999, and used a freezing covered, over medium low heat for 5 minutes, stirring company to freeze them. Dr. Akio Suzuki in Colorado has occasionally. Let stand a few minutes and serve. Serving a 3-minute color video (in Japanese) about his work with suggestions: Serve with your favorite salsa, fresh fruit, and edamamé and other seeds. whole grain bread.” Tak is also developing a sweetened edamamé smoothie (drink), which he hopes to have packaged in Tetra Brik 1210. Product Name: Cold Mountain Eda-Mame (Boiled cartons. It consists of 2 cups shelled, boiled edamamé, 1 cup Young Soybeans in Pods; 4 x 1-lb bags). sweetener, and 6 cups water. Blend until smooth, then chill. Manufacturer’s Name: Mutual Trading Co., Inc. Address: 3616 Delancey Lane, Concord, California 94519- Manufacturer’s Address: 431 Crocker St., Los Angeles, CA 2357. Phone: (925) 687-2422. 90013. Phone: (213) 626-9458. Date of Introduction: 1999. August. 1212. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 2000. What are edamamé (green Ingredients: Soybeans. vegetable soybeans)? (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. June 7. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1 lb plastic (vinyl) bag. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. How Stored: Frozen. • Summary: Any good defi nition of edamamé should have New Product–Documentation: Talk with and Label sent fi ve parts. (1) Th ey are soybeans harvested in the pods when by Atsuko Kanai at Mutual Trading Co. 2001. June 11. the beans are still green and tender–about 80% of the way to Th is product was introduced on 18 Aug. 1999. Th e fi rst becoming hard and dry like typical soybeans. In English, they customer was Costco, which is a strong buyer of ethnic are called “green vegetable soybeans” or “green soybeans in foods. Th e product was simply four of the 1-pound bags (fi rst the pods.” Th e word edamamé always refers to the beans in introduced in Feb. 1998), each with its same label, but with the pods. If one said in Japanese “Th ere are four edamamé four packaged together in a large bag with its own label. Th is in my bowl,” he or she would mean four edamamé pods with was the fi rst edamame sold to a discount club store, retail approximately 12 beans inside the pods. segment. In Japan, when the tender green soybeans are taken out of the pods, they are called mukimi or edamamé no mukimi, 1211. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 1999. Organic green vegetable but they are rarely served in the shelled form. Th e only soybeans (edamamé) are now grown in China by Asia Foods recipe Tak can think of is called Edamamé gohan (gohan (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Oct. 15. Conducted by William means “rice”), in which tender shelled green soybeans are Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. cooked with rice. To describe how the recipe is prepared a • Summary: Mr. Kimura is a food broker, who demos and Japanese person would say: Gohan o edamamé no mukimi sells quite a bit of Yamato’s boiled, packaged edamamé (green to taku (“Cook rice with the green soybeans shelled from vegetable soybeans = GVS) in California. He just returned edamamé”). from a trip to China, where he visited a large private farming (2) Th e soybeans used for edamamé must be a variety that company named Asia Foods, located about 100 miles west if is specially bred and chosen for this food use; it must have Shanghai. Established recently with capital from Japan and large seeds with a sweet fl avor. In Japanese, these are called Taiwan, Asia Foods grows many diff erent types of vegetables edamamé no tane (“edamamé seeds”). In English, these are organically–including edamamé. Th ey have the latest in food- called “vegetable type soybeans.” Japanese are very sensitive processing technology and their crops or certifi ed organic by to this fl avor, and people who grow to love edamamé will also

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 285 come to be aware of this. If typical soybeans are harvested shoyu plant in the Netherlands. Why is the overseas market when green and served like edamamé, they won’t be very for shoyu growing so nicely? Yuzaburo Mogi thinks it is delicious. because more and more people are realizing how well shoyu (3) Th ey must be harvested at just the right stage, goes with meat. when they are at their peak of fl avor, sweetness (amami) Photos show: (1) Yuzaburo Mogi. (2) A 19th century tenderness, plumpness. Flavor (aji) is the key, and this fl avor woodblock print of Kikkoman’s Noda factory. (3) Th ree and its components change quite rapidly during the growing bottles of diff erent Kikkoman soy sauces and a table-top season. Ideally, like sweet corn, they should be boiled within dispenser. Kikkoman’s logo is composed of an hexagonal minutes aft er they are harvested so that their sugars don’t tortoise shell (“kikkô”) inside of which is the Chinese have time to convert to starches. Th ey can then be eaten (this character / ideogram for 10,000 (“man”). (4) Kikkoman’s fi rst is best) or frozen. U.S. plant at Walworth, Wisconsin. (4) In Japan, edamamé are almost always served at room temperature; they are cooled with a fan aft er being boiled, 1214. Product Name: Kami Bento Box (Ready to Eat). and are almost never refrigerated or served hot. Traditionally Manufacturer’s Name: Trader Joe’s (Distributor-Retailer). they are served during the summer when they are in season, Made by Okami, Inc., Sun Valley, CA 91352. in a shallow bamboo basket placed at the center of the table Manufacturer’s Address: South Pasadena, CA 91031. for all to enjoy. Th ey are especially popular as a snack with Date of Introduction: 2000. June. beer or saké. Ingredients: Soba noodles topped with sesame seeds, (5) Since edamamé are grown as a vegetable, they need soba sauce, edamame (peel & eat), tofu pouches fi lled with more water than soybeans grown as a grain. Th us, Japanese vinegared rice [Inari-zushi], thinly sliced fresh gingerroot, have traditionally planted edamamé soybeans on the sides of shiitake mushroom rolls, Kikkoman lite soy sauce packet, the dikes or embankments around rice paddies so the plants “wasabi” (horseradish, water, artifi cial food coloring), etc. would have their roots in the water. Today in China, fi elds Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 15 oz (424 gm) on formed plastic of edamamé receive lots of water, almost like fi elds of rice. tray with clear plastic cover. Retails for $4.29 (2000/07, Address: 3616 Delancey Lane, Concord, California 94519- Lafayette, California). 2357. Phone: (925) 687-2422. How Stored: Refrigerated. New Product–Documentation: Talk with Patricia Smith 1213. Katayama, Osamu. 2000. A dash of Kikkoman: When of Trader Joe’s. 2000. June 20. She says this is an excellent it comes to soy sauce, the Kikkoman Corporation has its new product. Product with Label purchased at Trader competitors licked. Look Japan (Tokyo) 46(531):18-19. June. Joe’s in Lafayette, California. 2000. July 6. Soyfoods Center • Summary: Contains a brief history of shoyu followed by evaluation. All parts of this Japanese-style Bento Box lunch a history of Kikkoman and how the company began to sell, (8.75 by 7.25 by 1.5 inches, with four compartments) are then make shoyu in the USA. Shoyu was fi rst brewed in Japan authentic and delicious, except for the tofu pouches, which during the late Muromachi period (1333-1568), and the Mogi have some extremely fi ery “blow-your-head-off ” spice inside. and Takanashi families were among the fi rst to make shoyu Th is is not authentic, and we fi nd it almost inedible. Th e so- commercially–both in the town Noda, north of Tokyo. In called “wasabi” contains no wasabi at all; thus it is mislabeled. 1917 their descendants incorporated their brewery as Noda Th e edamame are wonderful, as are the soba noodles, their Shoyu Co. Ltd. Today that company is known worldwide as sauce, and the mushroom rolls. Kikkoman. Kikkoman’s move toward America began in 1957, when 1215. Product Name: Cold Mountain Eda-Mame: Blanched a sales company was established in San Francisco, California. Young Soybeans in Pods. Th eir fi rst U.S. plant came on line in 1973–aft er years of study Manufacturer’s Name: Mutual Trading Co., Inc. and debate. Th at plant now produces some 80,000 liters/year Manufacturer’s Address: 431 Crocker St., Los Angeles, CA and accounts for about 50% of the diff erent types of soy sauce 90013. Phone: (213) 626-9458. sold in the USA. Over the past 26 years, Kikkoman’s output of Date of Introduction: 2000. August. soy sauce has increased 12-fold! Ingredients: Soybeans. In the year 2001 Kikkoman plans to build a plant in Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 4 lb plastic (vinyl) bag. China. Th ough the Chinese market for Japanese-style soy How Stored: Frozen. sauce is small at present, the prospects for growth are large. New Product–Documentation: Package (4 lb) with Label Kikkoman has had the hardest time introducing shoyu brought by Tak Kimura and purchased at Costco in Concord, in Europe, which is more conservative than the USA or California. 2000. June 8. “Eda-mame: Boiled young soybeans Australia. Th e company began by launching a teppan-yaki in the pods.” 16 by 24 inches. Plastic bag. Green, yellow, business in Germany, followed by a sales company in 1979, blue, white and red. Th e background of the front panel is a also in Germany. In 1997 Kikkoman built its fi rst European color photo of many green vegetable soybean pods. Th e text:

“Heart healthy. Natural soy protein. Low fat. Cholesterol Tak is not an importer; being an importer is a very risky free. Low sodium. Natural soy protein. Isofl avone rich. Keep business. Each container costs about $150,000 dollars. If a frozen. Diets low in fat and cholesterol that include 25g of customs inspector doesn’t pass one container, the importer soy protein per day may reduce the risk of heart disease. must either dump it or send it back. Only big companies like One serving of this product provides at least 8 grams of soy Nishimoto or JFC can aff ord to take these risks. protein.” In the upper right corner the word “edamame” is Yamato is one of the companies that Tak represents. written in red Japanese characters (hiragana). On the back Yamato usually buys its edamamé from either JFC or are preparation tips, nutrition facts (no sodium added), food Nishimoto, depending on which off ers the best deal. Yamato guide pyramid, and serving variations. Product of China. then blanches the frozen edamamé again, for about 3 Talk with Atsuko Kanai at Mutual Trading Co. 2001. June minutes, in salted water. Th en, in an adjacent room, Yamato 11. Th is product was introduced on 10 Aug. 2000. Th e fi rst packages 8 ounces of edamamé in each plastic tray, does a (and only) customer was Costco. Th e big “club size” is too partial nitrogen fl ush, seals with a clear plastic fi lm, affi xes large for many consumers’ freezers but Costco wanted a bulk a label, stamps on a “use-by” date that is 7 days aft er the size they could retail for $5.00. Th e product is successful. packaging date, refrigerates the product, and rushes it to local distributors, such as the Safeway hub. To do this packaging, 1216. Product Name: Cold Mountain Kyoto White Miso, Yamato uses an Italian-made machine that cost $150,000. Th e Kyoto Red Miso, Mellow Red Miso (Made with Organic product typically arrives in stores 1 day aft er it is packaged. Soybeans; GMO Free). Th is means consumer should eat the edamamé within 6 Manufacturer’s Name: Miyako Oriental Foods, Inc. days. Actually, laboratory tests show that Yamato’s edamamé Manufacturer’s Address: 4287 Puente Ave., Baldwin Park, have a 9 days shelf life, but Yamato reduces this to 7 days to CA 91706. Phone: (877) 786-MISO (6476). have a 2-day cushion. Why doesn’t Yamato do a full nitrogen Date of Introduction: 2000. September. fl ush? Because bad bacteria grow better in the anaerobic Ingredients: Filtered water, rice, organic whole soy beans, sea environment of pure nitrogen–which means no oxygen is salt, koji starter. present. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 14 oz (397 gm) plastic tub. Retails Tak also has customers in Gardena, California; Portland, for $4.19 (2002/10, Lafayette, California). Oregon; Seattle, Washington; Denver, Colorado; and How Stored: Refrigerated. Brookline, Massachusetts. Th ey all buy their edamamé from New Product–Documentation: Product with Label a local importer–not from Yamato. Th ey must also cook purchased at Open Sesame in Lafayette, California. 2001. and package the edamamé locally. Th us, each also has its Oct. 5 inches diameter at top, 2.75 inches high. Blue, black, own label design. Address: 3616 Delancey Lane, Concord, tan, and light green on white. On the lid are recipes for: Miso California 94519-2357. Phone: (925) 687-2422. soup. Miso salad dressing. Ingredients and product name are given in both English and French. “60% less sodium than 1218. Product Name: Mori-Nu Silken Tofu (Made with non- regular miso.” GMO Organic Soybeans) [Soft , Firm, Extra Firm, Lite Extra Talk with Joe Arai at Miyako. 2002. Aug. 29. Th ese three Firm]. products were fi rst sold in Sept. 2000. Th e containers for Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. all Cold Mountain misos were redesigned and the number Manufacturer’s Address: 9960 S.W. Potano, Tualatin, OR of products in this line doubled to 6 from 3. Th is coming 97062. Phone: 503-692-3498. September, Miyako will expand into the building next door. Date of Introduction: 2000. October. Ingredients: Firm: Filtered water, organic soybeans*, 1217. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 2000. How edamamé (green isolated soy protein, gluconolactone**, calcium chloride. * vegetable soybeans) get to the USA and into food stores = Organically grown and processed in accordance with the (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Oct. 23. Conducted by William California Organic Foods Act of 1990. ** = Gluconolactone is Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. a non-dairy coagulant derived from food starch. • Summary: Tak is a food broker. All the edamamé that he Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 12.3 oz (349 gm) Tetra Brik sells are grown in Asia, about 60% in Taiwan and 40% in Aseptic carton. Retails for $1.69 (2000/10, California). China. He likes the Taiwanese edamamé better because the How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. beans are bigger and have more fl avor. Very shortly aft er the New Product–Documentation: Samples of the four new pods are picked in East Asia, they are cleaned, blanched for products with leafl et sent by Art Mio of Morinaga. 2000. Oct. about 6 minutes in boiling water in a continuous process, 17. Th ese four products will be available in retail stores by then frozen quickly. All edamamé imported to the USA the end of October. Each product is made with non-GMO by any importer go through this same 3-step process. Th e organic soybeans. On the right front of each package are two blanching keeps sugar levels high, and kills enzymes and green vegetable soybeans and two green vegetable soybean bacteria. pods. On the lower left corner are whole dry (yellow)

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 287 soybeans. Each texture is color coded: Soft = red. Firm = blue. USA and, in part because of quality control problems, was Extra fi rm = green. Lite Extra Firm = purple. On one side discontinued aft er several shipments. MTC may re-introduce of the package for each texture is a diff erent recipe, suited it now that edamame has become so popular. to that texture: Soft : Strawberry banana shake. Firm: Savory spinach dip. Extra fi rm: Mixed medley stir fry. Lite extra fi rm: 1220. Product Name: Cold Mountain Edamame: Blanched Chocolate dream pie. On the top of each package we read: Young Soybeans in Pods. “Non-GMO soybeans. No preservatives. No irradiation. No Manufacturer’s Name: Mutual Trading Co., Inc. cholesterol. Non-dairy. Low-fat soy protein. Aseptic package Manufacturer’s Address: 431 Crocker St., Los Angeles, CA locks out bacteria and protects from spoilage; keeps Mori-Nu 90013. Phone: (213) 626-9458. fresh without refrigeration until opened.” Date of Introduction: 2000. December. Leafl et (glossy color): “New from Mori-Nu. Made with Ingredients: Young soybeans. organic soybeans.” Shows the front of each package. “Mori- Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1 lb plastic (vinyl) bag. Nu uses only O.C.I.A. certifi ed organic soybeans in its newest How Stored: Frozen. tofu.” On the back are details about each product. Lite extra New Product–Documentation: Talk with and Label sent fi rm has the “Highest protein to fat ratio of any tofu.” 6 gm of by Atsuko Kanai at Mutual Trading Co. 2001. June 11. Th is protein and 0.5 gm of fat per 3 oz serving. product was introduced on 18 Dec. 2000. 10½ by 7 inches. Talk with Art Mio. 2000. Oct. 20. Morinaga has been Pre-printed plastic bag. Green, yellow, blue, white and red. under pressure for a long time from its customers to Th e background of the front panel is a color photo of many introduce organic tofu. Th ese four new products are not green vegetable soybean pods. Th e text: “Heart healthy. intended to replace the previous fi ve non-organic tofu Natural soy protein. Low fat. Cholesterol free. Low sodium. products, but the market will decided which ones do best Natural soy protein. Isofl avone rich. Keep frozen. Diets low and survive. Art thinks that health food stores will prefer the in fat and cholesterol that include 25g of soy protein per day organic but Asian-Americans will prefer the less expensive may reduce the risk of heart disease. One serving of this ($1.69 vs. $1.49) non-organic. It is not yet clear which product provides at least 8 grams of soy protein.” In the upper supermarkets will prefer, but they will probably not carry 9 right corner the word “edamame” is written in red Japanese SKUs. characters (hiragana). On the back are preparation tips, nutrition facts (no sodium added), food guide pyramid, and 1219. Product Name: Miyako brand Edatsuki Edamame: serving variations. Branch Edamame (Soybeans on the Branches in their Pods) (Frozen). 1221. Product Name: Miyako brand Premium Quality Manufacturer’s Name: Mutual Trading Co., Inc. Imported Edamame: Blanched Young Soybeans in Pods (Frozen). from China. Manufacturer’s Name: Mutual Trading Co., Inc. Imported Manufacturer’s Address: 431 Crocker St., Los Angeles, CA from Taiwan. 90013. Phone: (213) 626-9458. Manufacturer’s Address: 431 Crocker St., Los Angeles, CA Date of Introduction: 2000. December. 90013. Phone: (213) 626-9458. Ingredients: Edamame soybeans. Date of Introduction: 2001. January. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 2.2 lb plastic (vinyl) bag. Ingredients: Young soybeans. How Stored: Frozen. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1 lb plastic (vinyl) bag. New Product–Documentation: Talk with and letter (fax) How Stored: Frozen. from Atsuko Kanai at Mutual Trading Co. (MTC). 2001. New Product–Documentation: Talk with, letter (fax) from, June 15. In Japan, some high-class / fancy restaurants sell and Label sent by Atsuko Kanai at Mutual Trading Co. edamame still attached to the branches for several reasons: (MTC). 2001. June 15. Th is product was introduced on 15 (1) It makes them appear fresher and closer to their natural Jan. 2001. Th e edamame were imported from Taiwan. Th e state. (2) Th e product is diff erent from typical edamame size and design of this package is quite similar to that of the and thus interesting for customers. (3) It may be that aft er Cold Mountain Edamame introduced in Dec. 2000. the pods are separated from the branches, they immediately start to lose their sweetness–like sweet corn. So edamame 1222. Kanai, Atsuko. 2001. How sushi came to California, attached to the branches may be slightly sweeter and fresher. and how edamamé came to be served there with the sushi It is diffi cult to transport edamame in this form, especially (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. June 14. Conducted by William frozen, because the branches could not tolerate the freezing Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. process, which turned the green branches to brown twigs that • Summary: Mutual Trading Company (MTC) was started looked dead. MTC sold this product mostly to restaurants. in 1926 in Los Angeles (LA), as a co-op for Japanese Th ere were no printed bags; only a sticker on the clear plastic immigrants who wanted to consolidate their purchases. It bags. Unfortunately, this product was ahead of its time in the was located at 803 East 1st St., three blocks east of central

Little Tokyo. During the 1950s, Noritoshi Kanai, Atsuko’s Boulevard, then a third in Santa Monica. Mr. Kanai worked father, exported to MTC from Japan. Th en in 1964 he came on the sushi retail trade–which took longer to reach takeoff . to America and joined the company. Since that time MTC’s Why did sushi spread so quickly in the USA? From the forte has been the restaurant trade. Back in the 1960s, Mr. consumers viewpoint, it’s a novel cultural experience which Kanai, thinking about how to best introduce Japanese foods is both interesting and fun–rapport with the chef. Th e food to Caucasian Americans, realized that the retail channel was tastes great, is not easy to make at home, and is healthy. From too diffi cult; it takes too long (25+ years), makes it hard to the business viewpoint, it is profi table and requires special introduce authentic Japanese food without “Americanizing” skills which are diffi cult for others to copy. it, and cooking authentic Japanese foods is too challenging To make sushi, a restaurant needs three types of for average Americans. It would be much easier and faster things: Hardware (special knives, graters, mats, etc.), food to introduce Japanese foods through the restaurant trade ingredients (nori, wasabi, shoyu), and a sushi master. Mr. because then the Americans could taste the foods that had Kanai began to imported these from Japan. Originally, only already been prepared and served, in the way they were the special sushi rice was available in the USA; Kokuho Rice intended to be, by Japanese chefs. was developed in 1963 for Koda Farms by Dr. Williams of the Th e story goes back to the 1960s and a man named University of California at Davis. Harry Wolff , Jr. Harry was a huge man (“He looked like Company records show that on 30 July 1966 Mutual Santa Claus.”), Jewish, and a confectionery food broker. Mr. Trading imported its fi rst edamamé (2 cases) from Japan as Kanai and Mr. Wolff met at a fancy food show. Mr. Wolff a test, for sale to Japanese restaurants. However there was asked Mr. Kanai what he sold. Th e answer: Rice crackers, no connection between the 1966 trip to Japan for sushi and and thin honey & sesame biscuits. Mr. Wolff observed: “To the 1966 test import of edamamé. On 1 July 1970 edamamé be successful in the United States, you have to have a good fi rst appeared in Mutual’s restaurant catalog. In 1977 Mutual doctor, a good lawyer, and a good Jewish friend. I am a started to import edamamé from Taiwan, in addition to Jewish broker and I know all the distribution channels, so Japan. I’ll become your friend and team up with you.” He helped Th e popularity of edamamé in the U.S. is directly related Mr. Kanai to sell his high-quality honey & sesame “Harvest to the rise in popularity of Japanese food–especially sushi. Cookies” imported from Japan. Together, they made a little Many Asian cultures eat soy products, but only the Japanese fortune. Th en competing American companies, such as eat soy as a snack in the vegetable form–as edamamé. Nabisco, got smart and started importing cheaper versions In general, Americans regard sushi as a unique food from Taiwan–which ruined Mutual’s cookie sales. genre, separate from Japanese food. Before the 1970s, So in 1966 Mr. Kanai and Harry Wolff decided to take Japanese restaurants in America were visited by Japanese- a trip together to Japan to look for something else to sell. Americans who were familiar mostly with Kansai/Kyoto Th ey stayed at a hotel in Tokyo and one day they went to a style sushi such as Inari-zushi, maki-zushi, and oshi-zushi. sushi bar across the street. Mr. Kanai explained that most Th ey were not familiar with the Edo/Tokyo sushi-bar style Americans don’t like the raw fi sh in sushi, but Mr. Wolff was of raw-fi sh sushi. During the 1970s sushi bars in America intrigued by both the sushi and the rapport that he built grew as Japanese businesses in various fi elds set up offi ces with the sushi chef. In typical American restaurants, you in Southern California. Th e Japanese businessmen brought never even see the chef. At the end of the week, as they were Americans into sushi bars and Japanese-Americans began to preparing to leave Tokyo, Mr. Kanai was surprised to receive become familiar with raw fi sh. a bill for 100,000 yen, which was a lot of money in those days. America’s sushi boom began in California in Sept. 1980, Mr. Wolff had returned to the sushi bar every day, fell in love when the very popular TV miniseries and epic drama with sushi (including the raw fi sh), and learned a lot about it. Shogun, based on the novel by James Clavell, sparked a great Th e 100,000 yen turned out to be an excellent investment for interest in traditional Japanese culture among Americans. Mr. Kanai; it confi rmed his belief that Americans could be With the sushi, they drank Japanese beer (especially Sapporo taught to love sushi. big bottle) and saké. In America, beer is usually served with Returning to America, Mr. Kanai worked to expand the peanuts. But, true to tradition, Japanese restaurants served sushi restaurant trade, geared to both Japanese and Caucasian edamamé, free of charge, with the beer. “It was a mass Americans. Th e fi rst sushi bar in Southern California was sampling of the edamamé without people having ordered it! Kawafuku restaurant, started in 1966 in Little Tokyo, Los So the success of sushi, Japanese beers, Japanese saké, and Angeles. It was owned by Mr. Nakajima and the chefs were edamamé, are all tied in together.” Mr. and Mrs. Shigeo Saito. Th ey made a fortune of $30,000. In 1985 in the White House, sushi was served as hors Upon returning to Tokyo, they started a sushi restaurant in d’oeuvres at an offi cial presidential dinner; Ronald Regan was Ginza. Word of Kawafuku’s success spread quickly in Japan, president. starting a fl ood of young Japanese sushi chefs to the USA. On 27 May 1993 Mutual began to distribute its fi rst Soon a second sushi bar opened on mid-Wilshire edamamé grown in the United States–from Minnesota

Edamamé. But there were two big problems with this 1995 June–Yamato Flight Kitchen starts serving edamame Minnesota product: (1) the soybeans were the wrong kind, in the Japan Airlines fi rst class lounge at San Francisco grown for oil extraction and feed, rather than the large- International Airport. seeded vegetable types; and (2) the harvesting equipment 1998 June–Yamato Flight Kitchen starts serving edamame damaged the pods, and some of the beans evens fell out. So on United Airlines fl ights to Japan. the edamamé that Mutual received from Minnesota were not 1998 June 1–Tak Kimura starts selling edamame to very good quality. Aft er 3-4 shipments, MTC discontinued Costco, a huge nationwide wholesale/discount store. Yet the product. Safeway remains his biggest account in terms of total annual Another very important issue is the varieties; today income. Address: 3616 Delancey Lane, Concord, California Mutual carries only two edamamé varieties, imported from 94519-2357. Phone: (925) 687-2422. Taiwan and China. Th e beans are sweeter, bigger, prettier than most other varieties. Moreover, the fl avor changes from 1224. Gonzalez, Yvonne. 2001. Th e L.A. Tofu Festival in Aug. one soil type to another, and from year to year. 2001 (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Aug. 23. Conducted by Another issue is freshness. In Japan, edamamé have William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. traditionally been harvested at their peak of fl avor (the whole • Summary: At this year’s Los Angeles Tofu Festival, Yvonne soybean plant is pulled up by the roots), and sold fresh, with was the only non-Asian on the Festival Planning Committee. the pods still on the branches/stems, and the plants bundled At least 25,000 tickets were sold, which was an all-time together, roots and all. Edamamé in Japan is always served record. At the Festival, she ran the cooking demonstration in the pods because the pods (1) seal in fl avor, otherwise lost and she spoke on the stage about the benefi ts of tofu and during the boiling process, and (2) seal in nutrients, also lost the diff erent ways that tofu can be served. Jane Valdez, the in boiling. In fact, some high-class restaurants in Japan serve Anchor woman for news on Channel 9 TV in Los Angeles, boiled edamamé, still on the branches–emphasizing their is Mexican-America, bi-lingual, and a vegetarian. She “very fresh” status. Today, during the summer season, most encouraged viewers to attend this year’s L.A. Tofu Festival edamamé consumed in Japan are still sold fresh. But during in both English and Spanish. She later went on the Hispanic the other three seasons, virtually all are imported frozen. TV stations and again encouraged viewers to attend. She Commercialization of fresh (not frozen) edamamé is told people they could eat healthy hot dogs, tacos, burritos, impossible in such a large country as the USA because even Chorizo burritos, everyone’s favorite. Th is year more edamamé has only a 3-day window during which it must Hispanic food was served at the Festival. El Burrito, a be picked to be at the peak of fl avor–according to MTC’s restaurant served a very popular soy chorizo, called Soyrizo. edamamé purchasing manager. If picked before that time, Also, several tofu manufacturers and restaurants off ered the beans are too small; aft er that time they start to lose their burritos, tacos, tostadas, quesadillas, and a salsa with tofu. tenderness and sweetness. People buy scrip tickets for $1.00 (which benefi t Little Tokyo Of the three types of things needed to make sushi, the Service Center) then use them to pay for the foods. At the hardest to fi nd was good sushi masters, so several years ago a cooking demo, for one scrip ticket you get to taste the dish, Sushi Academy was started in Venice, California, near LA, by to watch the chef, and to take home a copy of the recipe. Mr. Toshi Sugiura, who owns Hama, a very successful sushi Manufactures give free samples of tofu and tofu products. restaurant next door. Th e California Sushi Academy (phone: Tofutti is also given away free of charge. 310-581-5272) has courses for both professionals (6 months) Each year, more and more Hispanics and Spanish- and amateurs (weekends) and is very successful. Address: speaking people come to the festival. Each year more and Mutual Trading Co., Inc., 431 Crocker St., Los Angeles, more bilingual Spanish-speaking volunteers sign up. For California 90013. Phone: (213) 626-9458. example, Mr. Olympic, who is from Chile, was a Master of Ceremonies one of the two stages at the Festival for the third 1223. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 2001. Some dates in the year. He eats lots of tofu every day. Literature goes out in both history of edamamé (green vegetable soybeans) in America languages saying that he is going to be at the Festival. (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. July 10. Conducted by William What was Yvonne’s feeling about her participation in the Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Festival this year? “It’s wonderful. Each year it gives me an • Summary: 1948–Yamato Sukiyaki House restaurant started opportunity to reach out to more people, and I also learn so in San Francisco by Mr. Kôbô Ishizaki and his brother. much. I love the service to others. Th at’s what it’s all about.” 1953–Yamato Flight Kitchen is established by the Ishizaki Next month Yvonne will be going to Costa Rica where brothers to prepare meals for Japan Airlines (JAL) fl ights she will translate for a spiritual teacher and teach people on from San Francisco to Japan. the Caribbean side of the country about tofu. Address: 6029 1991 June–Yamato Flight Kitchen of Burlingame, LaPrada St., Los Angeles, California 90042. Phone: 213-254- California, starts serving edamame on Japan Airlines fl ights 1712. to Japan, and also at their Yamato Sukiyaki House restaurant.

1225. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 2001. Change in edamame edamame (podless) arrived on the market, again causing sales trend. In: T. Lumpkin, ed. 2001. Second International sales to increase, but at the same time causing some market Vegetable Soybean Conference. Pullman, Washington: swings. Sales of edamame (in the pods) decreased, while Washington State University. 202 p. See p. 67-70. sales of shelled edamame increased at existing retailers. • Summary: Th is is the outline of a speech that edamame Th is yo-yo phenomenon lasted for about 6 months until the pioneer “Tak” Kimura presented at the Second International market share stabilized at about 60% for edamame and 40% Vegetable Soybean Conference. It begins with a brief history for shelled edamame–yet total sales were still increasing. of his work to introduce edamame to the USA. With the 2001 crop, organic edamame (both in the pods and Contents. How and why I was forced to sell precooked shelled) have come to market; this will cause another sales edamame. Diffi cult start. One person made a big diff erence. increase, yet they will compete with U.S. grown edamame. Defi ning two types of processors (1. Buys fresh from In short, there has been a tremendous increase in edamame domestic growers. 2. Buys frozen, uncooked from importers). sales and consumption since 1999–yet the same has been Sales performance. Diff erent forms of edamame (4 basic true for other soyfoods, and especially for soymilk. Th at forms {in the pods–regular or organic; shelled–regular will continue as new sizes and new products are introduced. or organic}, 16 SKUs). Four diff erent types of packaging. Address: Kimura & Associates, Food Broker, Concord, Choosing processors who import frozen edamame–the California. Phone: 925 687 2422. Fax: 925 687 5279 e-mail: people that I represent. Advantages of edamame processor [email protected]. over restaurant or catering. Types of accounts to serve (7). Types of freezers and coolers (3). Which department to 1226. Product Name: Mori-Nu Creamy Soup Made with promote edamame to. Competitive situation. Future of Organic Soy [Garden Pea, Corn, Tomato, Butternut Squash]. edamame. Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. Twelve years ago, sushi was becoming popular on the Manufacturer’s Address: 2050 W. 190th St. #110, Torrance, West Coast of the USA. As a food broker, Tak gained a CA 90504. Phone: 1-800-669-8638. majority of the major accounts, such as Club type accounts, Date of Introduction: 2001. September. Cash ‘n Carry, and wholesalers. Th ey sold sushi in the cooler Ingredients: Garden Pea: Silken tofu puree (water, whole section. Tak was always afraid of what would happen if these organic soybeans*, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride), food sellers started to make fresh sushi on their premises. But pea puree, celery juice, raw washed sugar, onion powder, that is exactly what happened–so he lost the majority of his salt, carrot puree, corn starch, carrageenan (thickener), garlic accounts. powder, sodium citrate, natural fl avor, spice. He then began to search for a substitute product or Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 32 fl oz (1 qt) Tetra Brik Aseptic products. He spent the next 4 months doing library research, Liter Square carton with reclosable cap and foil pull tab. where he found: Sales at natural and health food stores had How Stored: Refrigerate aft er opening. been growing on average at 25% a year since 1989. Foods New Product–Documentation: Ad (full-page, color) in made from soybeans (especially tofu and soymilk) made a Natural Foods Merchandiser. 2001. “New rich, creamy soups big contribution to these sales. Many of the larger companies from Mori-Nu. Made with organic soy.” Aug. p. 26. “Dairy in this industry were not nationally recognized. Th e new free. All natural. Available soon.” A photo shows the front product that Tak was looking to introduce must meet seven panel of the four packages. Products (all 4) with Labels and criteria: 1. No identical product on the market. 2. No big leafl et (color) sent by Morinaga. 2001. Aug. Leafl et: Th e front companies can get involved. 3. No preservatives, additives, is the same as the ad. Th e back contains Nutrition Facts, chemical additives, or artifi cial coloring. 4. No irradiation or ingredients, and bar codes. 4 gm of protein per serving. ozone. 5. No big investment required. 6. Quick and easy to Products (4 fl avors) with Labels sent by Morinaga. 2001. prepare at home. 7. Delicious, and good for one’s health. Aug. Talk with Art Mio of Morinaga. 2001. Aug. 14. Th is Precooked edamame (green vegetable soybeans in the product will fi rst be available in stores in Sept. 2001. Th e pods) could meet all the criteria. most popular fl avor is butternut, and the least popular is pea. Sales performance: Sales of edamame from 1994 to 1999 Th e recommended retail price is $3.79/liter, which is higher were double that of the previous year (100% increase). Th is than that of a similar product made by Imagine Foods. Trader was due to additional distributors, to the introduction of Joe’s says that they are cutting back on Imagine Foods’ soups imported products, and to sales in new regions. In 1999 there because they are not selling well. was a tremendous increase in sales aft er the FDA announced that soybeans can help prevent heart disease. Not only were 1227. Product Name: Mori-Nu CalipSoy Smoothie [Wild there even more distributors, but sales per square foot at Berries & Soy, Tropical Fruit & Soy, Strawberry Banana & existing retailers jumped tremendously. In Oct. 2000 organic Soy]. edamame from China arrived on the U.S. market; this also Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. contributed to an up-swing in sales. In early 2001 shelled Manufacturer’s Address: 2050 W. 190th St. #110, Torrance,

CA 90504. Phone: 1-800-669-8638. arrived several years aft er that, and she is sure that he was in Date of Introduction: 2002. April. Glendale–a little horse and buggy town–in 1913. Ingredients: Wild Berries & Soy: Silken tofu puree (water, Takeshi was born in about 1873 in Japan, in Wakuya, whole organic soybeans*, magnesium chloride, calcium Miyagi prefecture. He fought with the Japanese army in the chloride), chicory syrup, white grape juice concentrate, red Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895) and won some medals. He raspberry puree, blackberry juice concentrate, natural fl avors, and his fi rst wife had a family of two boys and two girls, pectin, citric acid, gum arabic, red cabbage color. * = Grown all born in Wakuya, Japan. Th e boys were: Tadashi (born and processed in accordance with the California Organic 15 March 1907, the eldest, who married Michiko, who is Foods Act of 1990. now age 90 but very clear of mind) and Takeo (born 7 June Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 11 fl oz (325 ml) Tetra Brik 1909). Aft er his youngest daughter was born in about 1912 Aseptic carton with foil pull tab. in Japan, Takeshi moved to the United States with his wife How Stored: Refrigerate aft er opening. and two sons, settling in Glendale, Arizona, where they Nutrition: Per package: Calories 270, calories from fat began farming. Th ey had a third son named George born 3 50, total fat 6 gm (9% daily value; saturated fat 1.0 gm), July 1919, but, tragically, when he was about 8 months old, cholesterol 0 mg, sodium 35 mg (1%), total carbohydrate 43 the mother passed away in the huge epidemic of Spanish gm (dietary fi ber 1 gm [4%], sugars 39 gm), protein 10 gm. Infl uenza–leaving the eldest son, Tadashi, to care for their Calcium 10%, iron 8%. Percent daily values are based on a baby. Takeshi later remarried to a woman whose given name 2,000 calorie diet. was Yaeno (her surname has been forgotten). Th e couple New Product–Documentation: Products (all 3) with Labels had two more children, John Tadano (born “Takejiro John and leafl et (color) sent by Morinaga. 2002. April. 4 by 3 by Tadano,” 18 Sept. 1923) and Joe Tadano (born “Takeji Joe 1.8 inches. Purple, red, or pink on white. Color photo of a Tadano,” 27 April 1925), both born in Phoenix. glass fi lled with smoothie; two straws are inserted, a berry is However it was diffi cult to make a living in farming, a wedged on the rim, and berries are clustered around one side part because of anti-Japanese sentiments in the 1920s and of the base. “Dairy free. All natural. Refrigerate for quality. 9 acts of anti-Japanese terrorism in 1934-35–which aff ected gm non-GMO soy protein.” Th e back panel states: “CalipSoy the Tadano family directly (see below). Th erefore, in the late Smoothies from Mori-Nu satisfy your body’s thirst for sun- 1930s, Takeshi decided to start a business making shoyu ripened fruits picked at their peak of perfection blended with (fermented Japanese-style soy sauce) in Glendale. Th ere was our creamy tofu puree.” In the lower right is the heart health a shortage of shoyu in the USA at the time and most of it claim. One side states: “33% pure juice. 54% tofu puree. No was imported from Japan, with a small amount coming from preservatives. No irradiation. 9 gm soy protein per serving... Hawaii. Leaving his farm under the supervision of his two Lactose free. Kid-friendly.” grown sons, in about mid-1940 he returned to Japan, learned how to make shoyu from a large shoyu manufacturing 1228. Shamin, Brandon. 2002. L.A. Tofu Festival a success. company (nobody remembers where), then aft er about one AsiaWeek (USA) 23(52):13. Aug. 15. year, returned to the United States in about September 1941, • Summary: More than 30,000 people attended the seventh on the last Japanese ship allowed to reach the United States annual L.A. Tofu Festival Aug. 10 and 11 in Los Angeles’ before the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor. Little Tokyo. Th e weekend event, which benefi ted the Little Arriving in Glendale that fall, he immediately set to work Tokyo Service Center (LTSC), focused on the health benefi ts constructing a large wooden building on his farm in which of tofu and soy. Th e theme this year was “Good for the to make shoyu. Th e wooden vats were commercially made, Heart, Good for the Community.” Th e festival included the about 5 feet high and 6 feet in diameter. Th e fi nished moromi third annual Health and Fitness Expo. Sharon Davis, wife of was pressed out of bags using a hand-turned screw press. It Governor Gray Davis, served as honorary chairperson and is not clear where they got this specialized equipment. Th en made a special appearance to honor LTSC’s commitment Takeshi taught two of his sons, Takeo and George, how to to the community since 1979. APA = Asian and Pacifi c make shoyu. At the shoyu factory on Glendale Ave., the koji Americans. A photo shows Sharon Davis trying tofu goodies was made in the traditional Japanese way, in fl at wooden in Los Angeles. boxes place in a warm incubation room with controlled humidity. 1229. Tadano, Mary; Tadano, Michiko. 2002. History of Th e attack on Pearl Harbor took place on 7 Dec. 1941. Showa Shoyu Brewing Co. (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Sept. Th e next day some FBI agents came to Takeshi’s house at 17. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. night to get him; they believed he was a Japanese spy. Several • Summary: Th e Tadano family has a long history as farmers days before Takeshi had had a heart attack; his doctor told in the Glendale area. A history of Glendale, Arizona says him to stay in bed for 6 weeks and not to be moved. Since that Takeshi Tadano, head of the Tadano family in Glendale, neither Takeshi nor the boys spoke much English, Michiko arrived in 1907; however Michiko is quite sure that he told the FBI agents what the doctor had said and gave them

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 292 the doctor’s name and phone number in case they wanted to expand the company. First they registered the company as the verify her story. Th e FBI left Takeshi alone for 6 weeks, then Showa Shoyu Brewing Corp., with John as president. Th ey they came and took him in an ambulance to the internment also registered the Marusho brand for their shoyu and had camp at Lordsburg, New Mexico. George accompanied his labels printed. dad as far as El Paso. Takeo, the second son, had come to the Th en, as their business thrived and expanded, they fi nally USA on a business visa but was found farming, so he was had to move to a new location. Th ey rented part of the red also taken to the Phoenix jail for 2 months and then to the brick sugar beet factory at 1150 East Glendale Ave. (which is Lordsburg internment camp. now located at 51st Ave. and Glendale Ave.; the streets have On 19 Feb. 1942 Executive Order No. 9066 was signed; been renamed) in Glendale, converted it into a shoyu factory, as a result, more than 110,000 Japanese Americans and and moved much of the equipment out of the wooden Japanese nationals living in the western USA were soon sent building on the farm into the new space. Th ey also bought to internment camps. new, much larger, wooden vats, about 10 feet high and 10 feet Shoyu that had been made by a handful of Japanese in diameter. [Note: Th is was probably in about July 1945. See factories in the western United States was no longer available. Soybean Digest, Aug. 1945, p. 22]. John’s name was on all the Th e city of Phoenix and its environs (including today’s offi cial documents. First George, then Takeo (who returned suburb of Glendale, located on Grand Ave. about 7 miles from the internment camp in 1944) was in charge of making northwest of Phoenix city center) was divided down the shoyu and koji, John was the salesman, and their father the center diagonally by Grand Avenue, which ran from Takeshi (who was not as strong as formerly) oversaw the northwest to southeast. Th ose Japanese-Americans living on business. Takeshi died of a stroke in on 1 July 1949. the west side were mostly sent to camps, whereas those living Th is was a fermented Japanese-style shoyu, made with on the east side (such as the Tadanos) were not sent to the roughly equal parts soybeans and wheat. Th e soybeans were camps; many keep farming–but were not allowed to enter “off cooked in a large metal cooker; it is not clear whether they limits” areas such as Phoenix. Th erefore these farmers were were pressure cooked or not. Moromi mash was fermented in not allowed to take their products to market, so they had to huge wooden vats (about 10 feet tall) for roughly 2 weeks in a hire a Caucasian to do that for them. temperature controlled room; it was mixed manually using a Tadashi (Michiko’s husband) and John were permitted to special stirring pole. Th e resultant mash was placed in canvas stay at home and farm–to feed their wives and relatives. Since bags and the shoyu pressed out. It is not known what type George was born in the USA and was therefore a U.S. citizen, of pressing equipment was used. Th e shoyu was sold only in he had no problems–even though he was educated in Japan. bottles, either 1 liter or 1 gallon in size. Soon John set up a At the time of Pearl Harbor, John was age 18 and a senior sales offi ce in Denver, Colorado. Th ere, in 1943, he met Lucy at Glendale High School. For the next two years he went to Taguchi, and they became close. Lucy helped distribute his Phoenix Junior College. shoyu, and her father, who ran a Japanese grocery company, Aft er the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor, all imports became a regular customer. When their romance broke up, foods and condiments (including shoyu) from Japan to the John married Lucy’s sister, Mary, in July 1945. She was a USA came to an abrupt stop. But by now Takeo and George medical technician in Denver. Th eir fi rst home was on 35th were making shoyu in the barn on the family farm–located Ave. in Phoenix. on Lateral 15 at the time, and since renamed 35th Ave. John later set up an offi ce in Los Angeles, California. He Initially, only the family used this soy sauce, but soon they sold a large amount of his shoyu to Modern Foods, a Japanese bottled it in gallon bottles and shared it with other Japanese food distribution and trading company in Los Angeles. John families in the area, and aft er a while they began to sell to also distributed his soy sauce as far east as New York; he oft en friends for a low price. News of the new source of shoyu traveled to New York and Chicago (Illinois). Mary believes spread by word of mouth, and soon many Japanese were that John’s Marusho Shoyu was the only authentic, fermented coming to the Tadano farm to buy a gallon bottle of shoyu. Japanese soy sauce sold in the USA during World War II. In about Sept. 1943 Takeshi, the head of the Tadano At one time Best Foods Co. wanted to buy John’s recipe and family in Glendale, was allowed to leave the internment camp distribution network. in New Mexico and return to his family farm because he When the shoyu company was doing well, John started was very ill and they thought he would not survive; family a parallel career in the nursery business. But he spent more members drove to New Mexico (via back roads) and brought than he made and before long the shoyu company had to him home. But with good care and the food he liked, he declare bankruptcy. Part of the reason was increased post-war recovered. Before long, he was working to expand the shoyu competition from imported shoyu, especially from Yamasa company. shoyu, which started coming into the USA from Hawaii, and So Takeshi and his son, John (who had been born in Kikkoman shoyu from Japan. John changed careers at that America, was an American citizen, spoke fl uent English, and time. Mary and Michiko each has a bottle of Marusho Shoyu decided to leave junior college to focus on business) began to with a label still on it.

Note: According to the book Glendale–Century of and black on light yellow. On the front panel: “Made with Diversity: An Illustrated History, by Dean Smith and Paula organic soybeans. Great for entrées and desserts.” Non-GMO Ilardo (2000, Publ. by City of Glendale, Arizona, 247 p.): logo. A color photo shows the wide end of a slice of pizza. On (1) Takeshi Tadano came to Glendale in 1907 (Chapter: Th e a side panel is a recipe for Fresh spinach lasagna. convergence of culture, p. 34). (2) “Anti-Japanese sentiments had been festering among the Anglo farmers for over a 1232. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 2003. Update on edamamé decade. Jealous of the success of hard-working Japanese (green vegetable soybeans) in America (Interview). SoyaScan farmers, many Anglo farmers pressed for laws to limit Notes. Aug. 15. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Japanese landholdings as far back as 1920... Th e anti-Japanese Center. terrorism of 1934-35 began. Dynamite bombs exploded • Summary: Th e competition among edamamé venders outside farmhouses, irrigation headgates were demolished, becomes ever more intense. A new product, grown in Taiwan, Japanese families were terrorized. Tadashi Tadano was is packed by Lian & Frozen Food Co. Th is may be imported irrigating his Glendale farm late on the night of September by All Vegetarian, Inc. (AVinc), 4300 Baldwin Ave., El Monte, 12, 1934, when six sedans discharged 15 men who brandished California 91731. Phone: 626-448-5919. Fax: 626-448-5809. pistols, pushed Tadano’s truck into the nearby canal, and fi red First introduced in July 2003. AVinc imports various kinds of two shots into the vehicle. Panic-stricken Tadano ran for frozen vegetables from Taiwan. 4 or 5 lb of their edamamé at cover, dodging two bullets that whizzed over his head. Many Costco retail for $4.99–not that cheap. other such terror stories occurred as emotions ran high.” Tak got kicked out of Costco long ago. Okami sells (Chapter: Overcoming trying times, p. 74-75). precooked edamamé at Costco. Tak does not know who John T. Tadano passed away on 21 Jan. 1989. Mary is his their broker is. Pure Nature Organics in Belgium wants widow. Joe George Yoneo Tadano died on 4 Jan. 1981. Joe Tak to supply them with edamamé. Northland (Mr. Peter Takeji Tadano died on 24 Nov. 1990. Address: 3539 West Shortridge) is now growing organic edamamé in the USA. Colter St., Phoenix, Arizona. Phone: 602-841-1763. Th e U.S. edamamé market has been growing very fast during the past 2 years. Th ere has been a big switch here from 1230. Yamasa Corporation USA. 2002. Use Yamasa soy sauce unshelled to shelled edamamé; they are now widely used in in all food formulations (Ad). Prepared Foods 171(9):57. salads. Address: 3616 Delancey Lane, Concord, California Sept. 94519-2357. Phone: (925) 687-2422. • Summary: A full-page color ad. “Reach deep into the past to fl avor the future! In the land where soy sauce matters, chefs 1233. [How Kikkoman introduced soy sauce to America]. and food processors trust one brand above all others–Yamasa. 2003. Television broadcast. KTSF (San Francisco–Channel 8 Naturally-brewed Yamasa soy sauce...” or 26). PBS. Oct. 4. 7-8:00 p.m. Series: Project X: Challenges. “Since 1645.” Plus the Yamasa logo. “Winner 2000, 2001 [Jap; eng]* and 2002 American Tasting Institute’s Gold Medal for Best • Summary: Th is is an excellent Japanese-language Flavor Enhancer.” Address: Plant: Salem, Oregon. California documentary with English subtitles. sales offi ce: 3480 Torrance Blvd., Suite 226, Torrance, CA 90503. 1234. Product Name: Kikkoman Pearl Organic Soymilk (In Aseptic Carton) [Original, Creamy Vanilla, Green Tea], 1231. Product Name: Mori-Nu Silken Firm Tofu (Made with or Pearl Soymilk (Made with Organic Soybeans) [Tropical non-GMO Organic Soybeans). Delight with 7 Juices]. Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. Manufacturer’s Name: Kikkoman International, Inc. Manufacturer’s Address: 9960 S.W. Potano, Tualatin, OR (Importer-Distributor). Made in Japan. 97062. Phone: 503-692-3498. Manufacturer’s Address: 50 California St., Suite 3600, San Date of Introduction: 2003. March. Francisco, CA 94111. Phone: 415-956-7750. Ingredients: Filtered water, organic soybeans, Date of Introduction: 2003. September. gluconolactone*, calcium chloride. * = Gluconolactone is a Ingredients: Filtered water, whole organic soybeans, organic non-dairy coagulant derived from food starch. evaporated cane juice, organic green tea powder, tricalcium Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 12.3 oz (349 gm) Tetra Brik phosphate, organic natural fl avors (lemon and vanilla), sea Aseptic carton. salt, carrageenan, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin D2. Certifi ed How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. organic by QAI. New Product–Documentation: New product and package Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 32 fl oz (1 quart) Tetra Brik with leafl et sent by Art Mio of Morinaga. 2003. March 25. Aseptic Carton. Th is product no longer contains isolated soy protein. Th e How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. packaged has been redesigned to conform with the new New Product–Documentation: Ad in Vegetarian Times. USDA organic regulations. Red, white, grayish-purple, green, 2003. Sept. p. 11. Also: During late 2003 and early 2004 this

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 294 product is advertised by Kikkoman on Japanese language the Sato family) and that family and their family are related at TV is the USA; an Asian-American young person is showing the level of cousins. San-J is has not publicized the acquisition drinking it. in the USA because they wish to keep their separate identity. Product with Label sent by Martine Liguori. 2007. Feb. Note: As of Sept. 2010 Soyinfo Center has been unable Purchased at Grocery Outlet in Oakland, California. Paid to fi nd even a single article in any U.S. newspaper or $0.59 for 1 quart of Green Tea. Regular retail price is $2.29 to magazine announcing or discussing this acquisition. Address: $3.29/quart. President, San-J International, Inc., 2880 Sprouse Dr., Richmond, Virginia 23231. Phone: 804-226-8333. 1235. Little Tokyo Service Center. 2005. Tofuzilla: Giant tofu takes over Little Tokyo at the LA Tofu Festival (Ad). Los 1239. Kunishi, Michiko Shimada. 2006. Origin and early Angeles Times Magazine. Aug. 7. p. 29. history of Sacramento Tofu Co. (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. • Summary: A 4 color ad, 5½ inches square. Th e 10th annual Aug. 10. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. festival will take place on Aug. 13-14 at 237 S. Pedro St., Los • Summary: Michiko Shimada grew up in Sacramento. Angeles, California 90012. Address: Los Angeles, California.. Her father owned and ran a grocery store. When Japanese- Phone: 213-473-3030. Americans living on the West Coast of the USA were told to leave home and report for internment camps, he boarded 1236. Product Name: Mori-Nu Enriched Silken (Made with up his grocery store and left . He ended up losing everything non-GMO Organic Soybeans). during the war. Michiko was sent to the Tule Lake camp, Manufacturer’s Name: Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc. where she married Hiroshi “Tom” Kunishi. Kunishi, who Manufacturer’s Address: 9960 S.W. Potano, Tualatin, OR is still alive and whose husband (Hiroshi “Tom” Kunishi) 97062. Phone: 503-692-3498. founded the Sacramento Tofu Co., has always told Alvin that Date of Introduction: 2005. August. the company was started in 1947 in Sacramento. She helped Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 12.0 oz (340 gm) Tetra Brik her husband with the company as much as she was able to Aseptic carton. Retails for $1.89. while raising a family. Four men founded the company: How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate aft er opening. (1) Hiroshi, Alvin’s father. (2) Takeo Hiroshige, a friend of New Product–Documentation: New release. 2005. Aug. 15. Hiroshi’s who is still alive. (3) George Shimada, Alvin’s uncle “Mori-Nu introduces silken tofu with added nutrients: Mori- (his mother’s brother), and (4) Mr. Tsumura, who taught Nu Enriched Silken Tofu off ers key nutrients, including fi ber Hiroshi Kunishi how to make tofu. Alvin thinks that Mr. and calcium.” A photo shows the front panel of the aseptic Tsumura may have owned a tofu company before World War package. II began. Alvin thinks there were 2-3 tofu manufacturers in Sacramento before the war. All four men worked at the 1237. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 2006. Update on the edamamé company from day to day for about the fi rst 1-2 years. Takeo market in America (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. March 7. Hiroshige told Alvin several times that the company was Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. founded in 1947. Other than this, Alvin has no written or • Summary: Th e total market has remained steady over the documentary proof of the date the company was founded. past 5 years; it does not seem to have increased or decreased. Sacramento State College collects materials on the history A major competitor, Okami, has displaced Tak at Costco of Japanese in Sacramento. Address: Owner, Sacramento Tofu and Sam’s Club–but both places still sell edamame. Th e Mfg. Co., 8300 Belvedere Ave., Sacramento, California 95826. product has many devoted, steady consumers. Address: 3616 Delancey Lane, Concord, California 94519-2357. Phone: 1240. Takesuye, Betty. 2007. Four generations of Tadanos (925) 687-2422. hold reunion in Phoenix. Asian SUNews (Asian Chamber of Commerce) 13(9):1, 4, Jan. 16. 1238. Sato, Takashi. 2006. Sale of San Jirushi to Yamasa. Plan • Summary: “Th e Tadano family recently [28 Dec. 2006] to build a new plant in Richmond, Virginia (Interview). held a reunion in Phoenix [in the Japanese Free Methodist SoyaScan Notes. July 13. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Church] to share family history with the children and Soyfoods Center. grandchildren, to reconnect with one another,... Four • Summary: In Nov. 2005 Yamasa Corporation purchased generations of Tadanos attended.” San Jirushi Corp. and San-J International (Kuwana, Japan; Takeshi Tadano came to the United States from Wakuya and Richmond, Virginia). San-J International had reached [Miyagi prefecture, northern Honshu], Japan about 1915. the production capacity of their tamari plant in Richmond, He left his sons Tadashi and Takeo in Japan but they soon Virginia, and they needed about $40 million to build a followed him to the U.S. where they farmed in the Phoenix second plant on the same property as their fi rst plant. area. His other sons, Yoneo, John, and Joe were born in Th ey like being purchased by Yamasa because Yamasa is Arizona. owned by one family (just like San Jirushi, which is owned by “Takeshi had two daughters whom he left in Japan to live

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 295 a more comfortable life than he could give them in America.” to all immigration from Asia. Moreover, all Asians were “Pictures of the farm on Lateral 15, now known as 35th forbidden from being naturalized as citizens, and it had the Avenue as well as the farm on Lateral 18, now called 59th eff ect of preventing Japanese Americans from legally owning Avenue brought back memories of farm life...” “Th e senior land. From 1924 on anti-Japanese racism rose steadily in the member of each family attending included Michiko Tadano USA even though Japanese were making huge contributions (Tadashi)... Photos of Takeshi and his family throughout the to American life and the economy in areas such as farming. years were assembled in a heritage album which everyone Th ey also paid taxes. Th e Seattle City Council [in Washington enjoyed seeing.” state], for example, passed laws attempting to put Chinese Note: Th e famous shoyu (soy sauce) company founded by hog farmers out of existence. Other laws made it illegal for John Tadano is not mentioned. Address: Newspaper: 7217 N Japanese to fi sh for salmon in the Columbia River, or to 6th Way, Phoenix, Arizona 85020. Phone: 602-222-2009. obtain hunting licenses. Th e whole Pacifi c oyster industry came from Japan; laws shut it down. Dave is not sure why 1241. Conklin, Dave. 2007. History of Japanese food in they did this. It could have been resentment that they were Portland, Oregon until 1941 (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. successful, or it could have been harassment. March 23. Compiled by William Shurtleff of Soyinfo Center. Nobuo Harada is a leading Japanese food scholar, who • Summary: Dave is writing his master’s thesis at Portland writes mostly in Japanese; his focus is the mid-Edo period. State University on the social history of Japanese food in He has one article in English titled “Culinary Culture and Oregon; it looks at the Japanese culture through the lens of its Transmission in the Late Edo Period,” in Written Texts– food. He has been reading Japanese-language newspapers Visual Texts: Woodblock-Printed Media in Early Modern in Portland and he found an ad that mentioned Ota Tofu Japan, edited by Susanne Formanek and Sepp Linhart (2005, (at 86½ N. 5th Street, Portland) on 1 Jan. 1915 in the Oshû p. 141-158). Nippô (Th e Oregon News). It mentions “Ota Kyodai” Dave has studied numerous editions of Zaibei Nippon- (Ota brothers), as if they owned the shop at that time. Th e jin Kan (Directory of Japanese in the USA), published by newspaper started about 1908 and was published in Portland Shin Sekai-sha. Th e 1912 edition is at Waseda University in 6 days a week, usually 6 pages per issue, and he found the Tokyo. Th e 1916, 1928, and 1936 editions are at University 1915 issues on a roll of microfi lm from the University of of Washington (Seattle). Several other universities (UCLA, Washington. Th is special New Year’s Day issue was about 30 Univ. of Oregon) also have the 1936 edition. He has not seen pages long. He has most issues of the Oshu Nippo printed the 1922 ed. between 1917 and 1928. Using a grant, they were recently put Another interesting source of information are the old on a CD for the Oregon Nikkei Legacy Center in Portland guide books for coming to the USA; they were published in (NW 2nd St.); they are not digitized. Th e center is open most Japan, mostly in Japanese but with some English-language weekdays. Becky Patchett is the archivist. ads from hotels, food suppliers and importers, and labor Aft er the Japanese invaded Manchuria and China in the contractors in the USA. Until 1912 the rice consumed in 1930s, there was a great deal of confl ict between Japanese Oregon was grown in either Hawaii or Japan; then in 1912 and Chinese in Portland. Th e children would have to walk Japanese-style rice started to be grown in commercial to school on opposite sides of the street. Th ey weren’t quantities in and around Sacramento, California. Rice had allowed to play with each other. However certain Chinese been milled in California since about the 1860s. grocers would still sell particular foods, such as bean Hood River is a city on the Columbia River about sprouts, to Japanese customers. Th e Japanese wouldn’t eat 60 miles east of Portland. Th e Yasui Brothers Store (a at the Chinese restaurants–maybe because they wouldn’t general store) existed in Hood River from about 1907 until be served. So Japanese restaurants started serving Chinese the internment in 1941. Th e store was the center of the food. In the 1920s Shina udon (“China noodles,” which we Japanese community. Masuo Yasui, who owned the store now call “ramen noodles”) was common in all the Japanese with his brother, never threw any documents away for his restaurants–as shown by ads. But by the late 1930s this food entire life. He kept order sheets, cancelled checks, letters, was no longer mentioned in ads by Japanese restaurants. telegrams–everything. Th ese documents are now at the Dave is also interested in how American anti-Japanese Oregon Historical Society, but they are just starting to be racism played out through food. In 1924 Congress passed cataloged. Several scholarly books about this Yasui family the National Origins Act (also known as the Immigration have been published in English, such as Stubborn Twig: Th ree Act of 1924, the Asian Exclusion Act, or the Johnson-Reed Generations in the Life of a Japanese American Family, by Act). A sweeping law to keep out “undesirables,” it limited Lauren Kessler (1993). the number of immigrants who could be admitted from any Early soyfoods manufacturers in Portland that David has country in any given year to 2% of the number of people found include: (1) Asahi Tofu, 52 North 3rd St. Source: Oshû from that country living in the United States in 1890, Nippo. 1922. May 4. p. 5. (2) Sanyo Co., which advertised according to the 1890 U.S. census. Essentially, it put an end miso (from Jan. 1915) and shoyu, and probably made them.

(3) Kuge Tofu in the late 1930s and early 1940s until the internment. 1244. Takesuye, Betty Tadano. 2008. Re: John Tadano, Joe Good books on Japanese rice in America are: (1) A Tadano, and the family shoyu factory in Glendale, Arizona. History of the American Rice Industry, 1685-1985 by Henry Letter (e-mail) to William Shurtleff at Soyinfo Center, July 15. C. Dethloff (1988). (2) Rice in California, by Jack H. Willson 1 p. (1979). Address: Portland, Oregon. • Summary: It was Betty’s uncle John Tadano, not Joe Tadano, who was the brother in charge of the shoyu factory. Th e other 1242. Rommelmann, Nancy. 2007. Th e food chain: Th e Ota brothers also were involved in one way or another. family turns out 6,000 pounds of the Japanese staple a week, “Takeshi Tadano was born in Wakuya, Miyagi-ken, Japan, selling to the public and stores. Oregonian (Th e) (Portland, on May 7, 1876. Oregon). July 3. p. FD1, FD5. “I have a couple of photos of John which I can copy and • Summary: A good snapshot of life at Ota Tofu Co. in send you. I do not have a copy of the building while it was Portland, Oregon. Koichi Ota is the 3rd generation tofu housing the shoyu factory. Th e building is still in existence maker,–”a man short on words and long on skill.” He makes in Glendale. Do you want a photo of it as it is stands today? I soft , medium, and fi rm tofu (and agé) from a high-protein can take one–there are other buildings in the area that have non-GE soybean variety named Vinton, which is trucked been erected since the factory was used in the 1940s so it from the Midwest. won’t have the same appearance as before.” Eileen Ota says they no longer run ads, nor does she John and Mary have two daughters, one here in Arizona do deliveries. Th ey sell fresh tofu over the counter like a and the other in Utah. Both were born in the late 1940’s. Th ey traditional tofu shop in Japan. Although the retail area is might have photos you would be interested in, although they small, she sells 1,000 pounds of tofu a day, six days a week. would not have any memories of the factory. It is possible She says there are a lot of vegetarians in Portland. Non-Asian that they could relate anecdotes told them by John. Address: customers may use soft tofu for salad dressings or smoothies. 807 N. 73 Place, Scottsdale, AZ 85257. “Fresh tofu is $1.50 per pound, or $1.25 per pound if you bring your own container. Agé is $1.30 per piece. Soy milk is 1245. Peters, Barbara Y. 2008. Recollections of her father, $2.25 per half gallon.” John T. Tadano, founder of Showa Shoyu Brewing Co. in A large color photo shows Koichi Ota in a steamy tofu Glendale, Arizona (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. July 21. shop, holding a nylon sack full of okara. Address: Freelance Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyinfo Center. writer; Special to the Oregonian. • Summary: John T. Tadano was Barbara’s father; her mother was Mariko (“Mary”) Taguchi Tadano. In the large 1948 1243. Conklin, Dave. 2008. Re: More details about Ota Tofu photo ad of the shoyu factory from the Chicago Japanese Co. in Portland, Oregon. Letter (e-mail) to William Shurtleff American Year Book, only the front building (facing Glendale at Soyinfo Center, July 4. Compiled by William Shurtleff of Ave.) is the shoyu factory. Th e larger, taller building behind it Soyinfo Center. was a soda pop factory. • Summary: “I found the names of the Ota brothers Saizou Takeshi Tadano, John Tadano’s father and Barbara’s and Heiji on page 43 of the 1913 Hokubei Nenkan–North grandfather, was the real founder of the shoyu company; he American Yearbook. Everything was in kanji. Th ere was no had the recipe for making shoyu and he knew the process. address given, but it did say they came from Okayama. On the day the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor, Takeshi and “I have a copy of a 1928 Oregon census of Nikkei that his wife were living in the home of John Tadano and his adds a bit of information to that. Heiji is not around anymore, family. Th e next day he was arrested as a prisoner of war and but it gives birthdates and dates of immigration for Saizô taken away; the family was not told where he was taken. John and his wife Shina.” Note: Shina Masuda (a woman, born 31 (his son), like the rest of Takeshi’s other sons, tried to locate Jan. 1895 in Okayama) and Saizo Ota (born 13 April 1881) Takeshi, so he looked for Takeshi along his delivery route immigrated separately to Oregon from Okayama, Japan. as he went southward. In El Paso, John almost got lynched Saizo arrived in the USA fi rst in March 1905; Shina arrived because he was Japanese. John fi nally found his father, later, in June 1913. Takeshi, at the World War II internment camp in Crystal “I found an ad in the 1916 Hokubei Nenkan for Ota City, Texas. Tofu that lists Heiji as the proprietor, and also says they off er Before coming to the USA, Takeshi had served as a Western baths furo and tobacco. Th ere is kanji on the side messenger for the Emperor of Japan (Hirohito), delivering saying dou/ona(ji) (same), with kanji for rhino (sai) and messages to various persons in Japan. elephant (zô) below, apparently referring to Saizô. I think Th e verb “ki-Bei suru” means “to return to America.” Saizô was in Japan at that time getting married. Th ere are no Barbara understands it to refer to a person who is sent from page numbers in that section of the book.” Address: Tokyo, the USA to Japan, to be educated in Japan. Th e eldest son in Japan. a family is oft en educated in this way, but in this family it was

Frank Tadano [sic, George Yoneo Tadano] who was sent. Th e Takeshi did not want to sell the recipes. John also had a eldest son, Takeshi, who married Michiko, was not sent. thriving business with a grocery store that was very famous. Takeshi had been a target for the U.S. government for two Th ere has long been a problem with money in the family. main reasons: (1) He had been a messenger for the Emperor When Takeshi died, he left no will; so all of the land wealth of Japan; (2) He had sent one of his children back to Japan to went to the fi rst born (Tadashi); the other children got be educated. nothing. John had his own business, so he didn’t really care Frank (the ki-Bei) was later imprisoned with Takeshi–and about it, but the other brothers who lived on the farm got his wife and family decided to go with him, even though nothing. they didn’t have to. Takeshi had guards with drawn bayonets Betty Takesuye is Barbara’s cousin; Michiko was Barbara’s surrounding him; they still hate Japanese there. Before aunt. Michiko had the best memory. Ben Yubuto is still the end of World War II, Takeshi (Barbara’s grandfather) alive and he ran the factory when John Tadano was away; developed heart problems so he was released from the camp but John and his father (Takeshi) were the only people who in Crystal City, Texas. knew the actual process. Takeshi didn’t trust his other sons Th e Tadashi sons are from two diff erent mothers, but the with the process; that was a sore spot. Barbara is not sure same father. Th is split lineage is essential to understanding who founded the company; it was Takeshi’s recipe (he made the history of this family and of the shoyu factory. John soy sauce in Japan before he came to the USA), but John Tadano was a born entrepreneur. His family (wife and may have raised the money. Takeshi was the banker for the children) was the only family that did not live on Takeshi’s Japanese community in Phoenix. ranch; all of the other brothers, with their wives and families, John Tadano died about 13 years ago (i.e., about 1995); lived on the ranch. One reason John did not live on the Barbara knew him as one adult to another. Some books have ranch was because of his wife, Mariko, who grew up in been written in which John Tadano is mentioned. John’s Colorado. Her father was not in agriculture; he owned his wife was not much involved in her father’s business. Barbara own Japanese store in Rocky Ford, Colorado. John hated worked for her father from the age of 2 until he died; she agriculture; he didn’t want any of his children to work in graduated from Harvard University in about 1971. At one the fi elds–even though they did so from time to time–to point she was going to write a cookbook, so she collected help out. Joe Tadano, who was the youngest son, moved off many cookbooks. Ben Tadano (Betty’s brother) is another the ranch later in his life. Barbara thinks Joe had nothing to person who knew John Tadano well; he worked a bit in the do with the shoyu business. None of the employees except shoyu factory. Joe Tadano and all of his brothers died by age Ben Yubuto were Tadano family members or relatives. 67. Joe was something of a womanizer. Address: Signature Barbara was a toddler (age 2-4) at the time the shoyu plant Real Estate Group, 1776 Park Ave., Suite 209, P.O. Box was in operation; she went there many times but has only 681777, Park City, UT 84068. vague memories of the fermenting room, the corn syrup (or molasses) room, the rooms full of big vats, the distillery 1246. Takesuye, Betty Tadano. 2008. Re: John Tadano the (with glass tubing and glass bottles) in her father’s offi ce, etc. Tadano family shoyu factory in Glendale, Arizona. Letter Japanese kids work, and she did real work at the plant. John (e-mail) to William Shurtleff at Soyinfo Center, July 21. 1 p. was very bright [intelligent]; he did some amazing things. • Summary: “Kibei refers to Japanese who were born in the Some artifacts from the shoyu plant still exist. Barbara U.S. but were raised / educated in Japan before returning is quite sure she can locate both full and empty bottles of to the U.S. Frank was not a Kibei but the younger brother John’s shoyu; Michiko used to have a whole case of them. “It George Yoneo was the Kibei in the Tadano family. doesn’t taste like anything that’s currently on the market. It “My grandfather Takeshi Tadano went to Japan in was much thicker, much denser–more like the tamari that’s 1939/1941 to learn the shoyu making process. He was on the sold at health food stores. It tended to get better with age, and last ship out of Japan back to the U.S. before war broke out. something would settle to the bottom.” He intended to make shoyu in Arizona. John did not have to go to an internment camp. In fact, “Ben Yabuno worked for John Tadano. He has passed he ran the commissaries at the two internment camps in away. I do know the whereabouts of his daughter. I would Arizona: Poston and Gila River War Relocation Centers. have to ask her permission for you to contact her, however. He would deliver Japanese food. He was a produce broker “I do not have any knowledge of articles or books in (including for the ranch) and later a food broker for Japan which uncle John is mentioned. I would be interested in Foods. He also delivered rice; that is how he met his wife to whatever you have been able to uncover. be in Colorado. “I know of two intact bottles of Marusho Shoyu. I have Aft er World War II, John Tadano’s shoyu factory was not seen either of them so I do not know the condition of shut down. Either General Foods or Best Foods [or perhaps the bottle or label. I think they both are the small size. I don’t Beatrice Foods, which in 1943 purchased Oriental Show- know if they are still full.” You Co., which made fermented shoyu] tried to buy it, but A color photo taken by Betty Takesuye shows the big old

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 298 sugar beet building on the left and the Tadano Shoyu factory Glendale’s director of economic development is talking on the right. But are unoccupied red brick buildings behind with a developer about breathing new life into the building, a chain link fence. Address: 807 N. 73 Place, Scottsdale, AZ which has been on the National Register of Historic Places 85257. for 31 years. Th e shoyu factory is not mentioned in the article. 1247. Product Name: Natto: Fermented Soy Beans. Renamed Tezukuri Natto: Fermented Soybeans in March 2010. 1249. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 2009. Shelled edamame (mukimi Manufacturer’s Name: Japan Traditional Foods. no edamame) in the USA and Japan. Update on the edamame Manufacturer’s Address: 2901 Gravenstein Hwy. No., market in America (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. June 22. Sebastopol, CA 95472. From March 2010: 3620 Frei Road, Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Sebastapol, California 95472. Phone: 707-827-1788. • Summary: Th e Japanese word “edamame” refers to soybeans Date of Introduction: 2008. November. served, cooked and seasoned with salt, in their green, fuzzy Ingredients: Natto: Soy beans (non-GMO), bacillus natto. pods. Shelled green soybeans are not part of traditional Dashi shoyu: Soy sauce (soybeans, wheat, sea salt), sugar, fi sh, Japanese culture. Th ese shelled green soybeans, which are fi sh sauce (extract of bonito), sake (rice, koji), rice vinegar, called mukimi no edamame, were probably introduced to yeast extract. Prepared mustard: Mustard, vinegar, salt, sugar, Japan about ten years ago; the idea may well have come from yeast extract, turmeric, spice. the United States. Th e shelled green soybeans are still quite Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 1.4 oz. (40 gm; 3 servings) paper rare and hard to fi nd in Japan. Th ey seem to be most widely cup packed with small packets of special soy sauce and sold at high-grade restaurants that serve “fusion” cuisine; the mustard; 3 cups per package. Retails for $3.99 to $4.35 per shelled edamame are oft en used as a colorful, delicious and package ($3.99 in major markets). healthful ingredient in salads. How Stored: Refrigerated. Shurtleff would be interested to know the answers to New Product–Documentation: Letter (e-mail) from Minami the following questions about shelled edamame in Japan Satoh, founder and owner of Japan Traditional Foods Inc. (mukimi no edamame). When did the word originate in Gives basic information about product at the time it was Japanese? When did they start to be sold in Japan? By which launched. “Tezukuri” means “handmade” in Japanese. Th e company? At what restaurants and stores would you buy product was fi rst sold via a Japanese distributor in Los them today? Do you have any data on the development and Angeles in Nov. 2008. Th e fi rst major store to carry the current size of this niche market? product was Nijiya Japanese Grocery Market in Los Angeles. Tak gives his best guess as to the answers. Original label with current product sent by Minami In the USA, Whole Foods sells 80% edamame (in the Satoh. 2010. April 22. Th e fi rst label was a line drawing pods) and 20% shelled edamame, whereas Trader Joe’s is the (dark brown on very light brown / beige) of a traditional exact opposite–80% shelled and 20% edamame. Green Leaf, pack of natto wrapped in rice straw. Th e product was sold a an organic distributor, sells 80% edamame and 20% shelled small packet of dashi shoyu and a small packet of prepared edamame. mustard. When the time came to reprint the labels, he In the USA, sales of edamame rose rapidly from 1994 to realized that that the beige label looked OK, but was not 1999 (doubling each year), reached a peak during the years especially attractive when displayed in stored and less 1999-2001, then dropped about 30%, but have been level English. So in March 2010 he switched to a label with an since Oct. 2008. However many Americans now eat edamame orange background, dark brown illustration, and dark brown at least once a week. and white lettering, and he renamed the product Tezukuri Only July 11, Tak and his wife plan to go to a Japanese Natto. Th e original address, 2901 Gravenstein Hwy North store in San Jose. He will buy chamame, so we can learn was the address at which the corporation was registered, but exactly what it is and how it diff ers from regular edamame not the place where the natto was made, so he also changed and kuro edamame (black edamame). Address: 3616 that on the March 2010 label. A restaurant package (7 oz. Delancey Lane, Concord, California 94519-2357. Phone: tray) is also available. (925) 687-2422.

1248. Sanders, Rebecca L. 2009. New life may be near for old 1250. Moncrieff , Scott. 2009. What the Sam’s Chicken? Th e beet-factory site: West Valley. Arizona Republic. March 17. true story of the man behind the meat. Focus (Th e Andrews • Summary: A large photo shows the old, fi ve-story sugar University Magazine) 45(4):20-23. Fall. beet factory in Downtown Glendale, Arizona. Built in 1906, • Summary: “You go through the serving line at Dining it has been closed since 1985 and is surrounded by chain-link Services, picking up mashed potatoes and gravy, salad, and and barbed-wire fences. In the right foreground, also inside a drink. Oh, and you add a portion of Sam’s Chicken, along the fences, is the old Marusho soy sauce factory, run by the with two tablespoons of tartar sauce. It’s pricey, at $3.79 a Tadano family. serving–and 25 cents for the tartar sauce–but it has been an

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 299 irresistible favorite at Andrews University for 40 years. As you Madison Foods. By the time Sam arrived in 1937, Madison work through your fi ve ounces of wheat gluten, soybean oil, Foods was a leading–probably the leading–developer of soy- soy fl our, yeast extract, sea salt and top secret spices, you have based products in the United States, including soymilk, soy no idea of the history of Sam’s Chicken, or who Sam is, if meat substitutes and tofu products. indeed there is such a person. But as those 400 calories hurtle However, times were hard and wages were pennies per past your taste buds and into your bloodstream, sit back and hour. Sam’s classmate Shirou Kunihira worked in the soymilk maintain consciousness. I’m going to tell you. production plant, while Sam worked at the bakery, where his “Our story starts about 6,000 miles away from Berrien duties included running the bread loaves through the slicer. Springs, Michigan, near the city of Obihiro, on the island of Shirou would get an allotment of soymilk at the end of his Hokkaido, in Japan. Th at is where Michihisa Yoshimura was shift and Sam would collect the crumbs from the pan under born on March 4, 1915. His father, a well-to-do businessman, the slicer. With these ingredients the friends would share a owned a coal mine and raced horses for fun. In some ways, humble evening meal. For Japanese and Japanese-American Michihisa was a lot like your average American kid of the students, there was the added challenge of the United States Post World War I era. He liked to snow ski, ice skate and being at war with Japan. Despite these challenges, Sam play baseball (catcher and left fi eld). As Michihisa got into graduated from Madison College in 1941 and worked an his teens his mother, a Christian (his father was an atheist), additional two years for Madison Foods, but now his passion wanted her son to attend a Christian school, so she sent him for soy was balanced with a new passion for she. way down south to Saniku Gakuin, the Adventist college Sumiko Yano, a.k.a. Sumi, was born in Japan, but grew about 50 miles east of Tokyo on the other side of Tokyo Bay. up in Southern California. At the time the U.S. declared “Th ere Michihisa providentially-for purposes of our story war on Japan, in December of 1941, her family was living and title product-worked in the food department, helping in El Centro, California. Her father made his livelihood by manufacture peanut butter, grape juice and bakery products. arranging for cantaloupes and other valley produce to be During summer vacations he worked with his grandfather’s shipped to market. In 1942, her family was given a one- fl ax company, further extending his knowledge of food month notice that they would be placed in a ‘War Relocation production. When Michihisa turned 18, in 1933, he was Camp’ in Poston, Arizona. (Aft er relocation started, Sam required by law to apply to join the federal army. However, and the other Japanese or Japanese-Americans at Madison he was rejected because of fl at feet-Japan was not yet in a would hide in the cornfi elds whenever immigration offi cials large-scale war and its military was selective. Th is rejection came looking for Japanese persons.) For approximately one prepared the way for him to gain permission to leave Japan to year Sumi lived with her parents in an army barracks at the attend Madison College, just outside Nashville, Tenn., where camp, eating in the communal dining area, using a latrine, he began further studies in 1937. He had been encouraged and working every day in the agriculture department as a to go to Madison by Perry Webber (Emmanuel Missionary secretary, for $19 per month. One day, Sumi received a box College class of 1911), a PhD in chemistry who had a special of home-baked peanut-butter cookies from someone named interest in soyfoods, and had spent much time at Madison Sam. Sam had sent the cookies as part of a thank you to College as well as in Japan. As Michihisa set off for Madison, Sumi’s family, who had helped Sam’s family with a fi nancial Webber suggested he adopt the name ‘Sam,’ aft er the biblical transaction at a time when Japanese bank assets were frozen. Samuel. Th us Webber unwittingly saved us from 40 years of Sumi wrote back asking for more cookies. Sam, in turn, ‘Michihisa’s Chicken.’ Incidentally, Sam’s younger brother helped arrange for Sumi to get early release from camp, in Zenzaburo, who remained in Japan, trained as a kamikaze order to attend Emmanuel Missionary College, through the pilot, and had given away his clothes preparatory to his fi nal auspices of A.N. Nelson, then dean at EMC, but formerly mission-and then, mercifully, the war ended. president of Saniku Gakuin when Sam was a student there. “In entering Madison College, Sam had come to the Sumi, in turn, decided to pass through Madison on her train school most suited to enhance his work as a food technologist trip to EMC, to meet Sam. Th ey met and got acquainted in with soy products. In 1904, E.A. Sutherland, having resigned the home of Perry Webber, and that fall of 1943 found Sam as president of Emmanuel Missionary College, embarked as well as Sumi enrolled for classes at EMC. Sumi worked as with his colaborer Percy Magan to open a new school in the a reader in the home economics area for Mrs. Holquist, while South. Th is institution, originally the Nashville Agricultural Sam worked at the farm and the greenhouse. and Normal Institute, became Madison College (in 1937), Th e young couple was married on June 12, 1944, at a and Sutherland served as president there for over 50 years. friend’s house in Chicago, and lived in an apartment until Th is school, like Andrews and Saniku Gakuin, focused on the Sam’s graduation on August 1, 1945, with a BS in agriculture. harmonious development of body, mind and spirit. As part Th eir fi rst child, Steve, was born in June of that year. Sumi of the plan, students were to work off half or more of their remembers that a friend drove her to Watervliet, Michigan, expenses each year. Among the industries which developed where the doctor, sympathizing with her state as a poor on campus was a food factory which, in 1918, became student, delivered her baby for free. Sam returned to Japan in

1947 (Sumi and infant Steve followed six months later), and spent ten years helping build up the food factory at Saniku Gakuin. Th e Yoshimuras returned to Tennessee in 1957, where Sam became production manager at Madison Foods. Continued. Address: M.A., Prof. of English, Andrews Univ., Berrien Springs, Michigan 49104.

1251. Product Name: Megumi Natto (Organic). Manufacturer’s Name: Japan Traditional Foods. Manufacturer’s Address: 3620 Frei Road, Sebastopol, California 95472. Phone: 707-827-1788. Date of Introduction: 2010. February. Ingredients: Soybeans, Bacillus natto culture. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 3 oz. (85 gm) plastic cup with no sauces. One cup retails for about $2.99. How Stored: Refrigerated.

Product with label brought by Tak Kimura. 2010. April 21. Plastic cup with paperboard sleeve. White, red, black, and yellow on reddish brown. On the front panel: “Organic Megumi Natto. Fermented soybeans. Fresh never frozen. Natural energy food. Blessings from the bean. Product of U.S.A. Perishable keep refrigerated.” Use by (30 day shelf life). Th e paperboard sleeve is designed to be opened without damaging it so the back side can be read. Contents: About Japan traditional foods. About natto. “A popular way to eat natto.” Recipe (without any quantities) for brown rice topped with natto (mixed with a little soy sauce and green onion). “Also enjoy natto: In salad. On bread or crackers. With your favorite pasta. In sushi rolls.” Discover more natto recipes on the website www.meguminnatto.com. Make friends with natto’s sticky strings. Th e new Berkeley Bowl in west Berkeley is now (23 April 2010) retailing Megumi Natto for $2.95 per pack of 85 gm. Taste test by Akiko Aoyagi. 2010. April. Akiko prefers the Americanized, organic version of the two natto products made by this company. Both taste very mild and both are very unsatisfactory to Akiko, who loves natto and eats it regularly. She feels like both have been dehulled. She likes a tougher texture and she craves a stronger (less mild) taste. New Product–Documentation: Letter (e-mail) from Minami Th e price of this natto is 3 times higher than the natto she Satoh, founder and owner of Japan Traditional Foods Inc. buys locally. She does not care whether a natto product is Gives basic information about product at the time it was organic or not. Th e American design is too busy (gocha- launched. “Megumi” means “a blessing” in Japanese. For gocha). details, see www.meguminatto. com. Th e package design is a shallow plastic cup. Th e round label is white and black on 1252. Japan Traditional Foods. 2010. Natto: Fermented red. Th e soybeans are certifi ed organic by QAI. soybean (Website printout–all). www.meguminatto.com. 10

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 301 p. Printed April 10. celebrate introduction of organic Megumi Natto (TM). • Summary: A very attractive, stylish, professional, Sebastopol, California. 1 p. Sent as attachment to an e-mail. informative, and innovative website by Planeteria Web • Summary: Th is is a promotion and tasting event for Design. Contents: Home. About natto (Plus Frequently Asked Megumi Natto at a San Francisco restaurant. “Fresh, Never Questions). History. Health benefi ts. Products (Megumi Frozen, Natural Energy Food, First to USA. Natto, Tezukuri Natto). Recipes (24 natto recipes plus an “Megumi Natto (TM) hor d’oeuvres prepared by Ozumo excellent 3½-minute video titled “How to prepare natto” [restaurant]. Complimentary sake. 161 Steuart Street, San featuring Minami Sato). Order. Press. Where to buy (retail, in Francisco, California 94105. T: 425.882.1333. www.ozumo. California, Oregon, or Washington. Tezukuri natto is much com. more widely available than Megumi Natto). Our company. “Tuesday, April 20, 2010. 5:00–7:00 pm. Contact us. “RSVP: [email protected] www.meguminatto. Note: Th e URL www.gourmet- natto.com redirects to com.” Address: [Sebastapol, California]. this URL / website. Address: 3620 Frei Road, Sebastopol, California 95472. Phone: 707-827-1788. 1255. Kimura, Takuji “Tak.” 2010. Visit to event promoting the launch of Megumi Natto in San Francisco (Interview). 1253. Japan Traditional Foods. 2010. Japan Traditional Foods SoyaScan Notes. April 21. Conducted by William Shurtleff of announces availability of organic Megumi Natto, fermented Soyfoods Center. soybeans, in California markets (News release). Sebastopol, • Summary: Tak and his wife arrived a little late last night California. 4 p. April 19. at the stylish, upscale Japanese restaurant “Ozumo” in • Summary: Contents: Introduction. About Japan Traditional San Francisco where the Megumi Natto promotion was Foods. Minami Satoh, President & founder Japan Traditional already underway. Th e place was jam packed with more Foods, Inc. (brief biography). Megumi Natto frequently asked than 50 media reporters, about half being Japanese and questions: Why did you bring natto to the United States? half Caucasian. Tak thinks there were no consumers–only Why did you choose Sebastopol, California, to produce mass media people. All the action was at a small bar (where natto? How long does your natto fermentation process take? alcoholic beverages are usually served) in the restaurant, (about 20 hours). Your natto tastes and smells far milder where Mr. Minami Sato, founder and president of Japan than frozen natto I have tried, why? What are natto’s health Traditional Foods, rented the space. benefi ts? What is natto’s shelf life (1 month). Is it possible to Four natto dishes were served, each brought around cook hot dishes with natto? (When the enzyme nattokinase on trays by waitresses. Th ese fi ve included: (1) Cooked egg is heated to 150 degrees Fahrenheit or warmer for more than (dashimaki tamago) topped with natto. (2) Nori-wrapped 10 minutes, it may lose its eff ectiveness. So better to add sushi with natto plus a dab of umeboshi (salt-pickled plum) natto to hot dishes at the end of preparation). What are the on top. (3) Fried tofu stuff ed with natto. (4) Cucumber and white spots on the beans? (As natto continues to ferment, asparagus sushi roll (large) topped with diced (hikiwari) the proteins start to break down into amino acid crystals. natto. Tak could hardly hear anything that was said, the noise Th ey are safe to eat). Is it normal for natto to be so stringy? was so loud. Th e bar was small and no microphones were (Yes. Th e sticky strings (a form of glutamic acid) include the used. However the response was very, very good. Everyone enzyme nattokinase). seemed to be enjoying the prepared natto dishes. Th e Introduction states: “Made in small batches in Aft er the sampling Tak and his wife went to the sushi bar Sebastopol, CA, Megumi Natto is the fi rst to off er this organic in Ozumo and enjoyed six pieces of sushi each–for $100. A option.” very, very expensive restaurant. “During fermentation a benefi cial bacteria, Bacillus natto, At the event, Tak purchased one case (12 x 3 oz cups) for is added to the soybeans. Th is results in the production of the $32.28. On refrigerated products, wholesalers usually take enzyme Nattokinase. Th is enzyme has been found to dissolve a 30% margin and retailers usually take a 30-40% margin. blood clots and thin blood. Megumi Natto is high in protein, Address: 3616 Delancey Lane, Concord, California 94519- good source of dietary fi ber, and rich in vitamin B2 & K2.” 2357. Phone: (925) 687-2422. “Megumi Natto is now available in 3 ounce containers in selected grocery and natural food markets in Northern 1256. Takesuye, Betty Tadano. 2011. Th e Tadano family and California including: Andy’s in Sebastopol, Community the Showa Shoyu Brewing Co. (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Market in Santa Rosa, Berkeley Bowl West in Berkeley. May 2. Rainbow Grocery and Tom’s Natural Foods in San Francisco.” • Summary: During World War II, Takeo Frank Tadano Address: 3620 Frei Road, Sebastopol, California 95472. ended up in the internment camp at Crystal City, Texas; Betty Phone: 707-827-1788. thinks he was gone for about four years. His family went and joined him there; they stayed with him until he was released. 1254. Megumi Natto. 2010. Invitation: Please join us to Note: Crystal City, Texas, “was home to the largest of the

World War II internment camps, having housed American 21. 1 p. civilians of German, Japanese, and Italian ancestry. However, • Summary: In reply to an e-mail asking about the Festival, the majority of internees were South American citizens. which was held Saturday, June 11, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. in Th e camp was administered by the INS [Immigration and San Francisco Japantown’s Peace Plaza, Post and Buchanan Naturalization Service] and the Department of Justice. To streets. reduce hardships during internment and to reunite families, “Th e festival was a huge success. While we were expecting the INS originally intended to detain only Japanese at Crystal maybe 1,000 to 2,000 people, we estimate that we had City,...” (Source: Wikipedia, at Crystal City, Texas, May 2011). some 3,500 people in and out of the Peace Plaza during the Betty’s grandfather, Takeshi Tadano, was also taken away Festival. Th ere was much positive feedback–for the food, to Lordsburg, New Mexico. But he had a very serious heart our two mascots Tofu Ninja and Tofu Panda, the emcees, condition, so the family had to go aft er him and brought him the entertainment, the audience participation games and the home. Tofu Dessert Competition–that encourages us to do it again Th e family farm was originally in Phoenix; they moved next year. Th e trick is to maximize our fundraising eff orts. it to Glendale in about 1936. Th e two locations are only However, we put this together in only two months, so with about 6 miles apart. Betty’s older brother was born in 1936, more lead time, I’m sure we can get more sponsors.” in Phoenix hospital, but she does not know if he was born “Th anks again for all of your help. Th ere certainly is the before or aft er the move. potential to make this festival grow in the years to come, and Betty’s grandfather, Takeshi, went to Japan to learn how some defi nite excitement for it.” Address: President, Nichi to make koji. Betty’s sister has an original small bottle of Bei Foundation, 1832 Buchanan St., Suite 207, San Francisco, Marusho Shoyu. Address: 807 N. 73 Place, Scottsdale, AZ California 94115. Phone: (415) 573-1009. 85257. 1259. SoyaScan Notes.2011. Chronology of Kikkoman 1257. SoyaScan Notes.2011. History of early Japanese tofu Corporation. Compiled by William Shurtleff of Soyinfo shops in the United States (Overview). June 1. Compiled by Center. William Shurtleff of Soyinfo Center. • Summary: Th is chronology is based largely on the excellent • Summary: In 1905 there were 6 Japanese tofu shops in the chronologies near the back of Kikkoman annual reports, United States; 2 in Los Angeles, and 1 each in San Francisco, dates in “Kikkoman Today & Tomorrow” (1972, p. 1), and Sacramento, San Jose, and Isleton–all in California. dates in Fruin (1983). “Ideally situated close to soybean- By 1910 at least 61 Japanese tofu shops had been growing regions as well as the Edo River, which provided a established in the USA, by 1920 at least 166, by 1930 at least convenient transportation route for consumers in or near 293, by 1940 at least 392, and by 1950 at least 425. Edo, or present-day Tokyo, Noda has been well-known Th e fi rst Japanese tofu shop in Washington state was in for its soy sauce (shoyu) production since the Edo period. operation by 1906 (in Seattle); in Utah by 1907 (Ogden); in Noda is located about 30 miles northeast of Tokyo in Chiba Nevada by 1908 (Reno); in New York by 1911 (Brooklyn, prefecture. NYC), and in Idaho by 1913 (Sugar City). Th us, almost all “Kikkoman Soy Sauce fi rst went on the market in 1661 of the earliest known tofu shops in the United States were when the Takanashi and Mogi families constructed breweries started by people of Japanese ancestry–most of them in small and started the brewing of soy sauce.” communities in California, Oregon and Washington. 1914–When World War I started, excessive competition How do we know all this? Largely because of two arose between Japan’s many shoyu producers because of the remarkable public directories published in San Francisco wartime economy, causing a very confused market situation. by the Nichibei Shinbun-sha (Japanese American News 1917 Dec.–With these conditions as a background, eight Inc.). Th e fi rst, published from 1905 to 1916, was titled Mogi and Takanashi family companies, the leading shoyu Zaibei Nihonjin Nenkan, retitled Nichi-Bei Nenkan in 1909 producers in the Noda area, merged to form Noda Shoyu (Japanese-American Yearbook). Th e second, published from Co., Ltd., a company with capital of ¥7 million and the 1919 to 1941, was titled Nichibei Jûshoroku (Th e Japanese predecessor of Kikkoman Corporation. American Directory). 1925 April–Noda Shoyu Co., Ltd. absorbs Noda Shoyu Th ere is, unfortunately, no known corresponding Jozo Co., Ltd., Manjo Mirin Co., Ltd., and Nippon Shoyu Co., directory listing Chinese businesses in the United States. Ltd., through a merger. 1926–Kikkoman No. 7 shoyu brewing Address: Founder & director, Soyinfo Center, P.O. Box 234, plant constructed. Lafayette, California 94549. 1930 August–Th e Takasago soy sauce production plant (formerly the Kansai Plant) is constructed near Osaka and 1258. Taguma, Kenji G. 2011. Re: Th e First Northern completed in 1931. California Soy and Tofu Festival: Discover the Joy of Soy. 1936–Kikkoman Worcestershire Sauce plant completed. Letter (e-mail) to William Shurtleff at Soyinfo Center, June 1939–With the start of World War II, government

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 303 controls on the price of soy sauce are established. 1986 August–New shoyu production facilities come on 1946–Kikkoman stock fi rst becomes available to the stream at Kikkoman’s Chitose Plant, in Hokkaido. public. 1990 January–Kikkoman buys perpetual marketing 1949–Export of Kikkoman soy sauce is reestablished aft er rights for the Del Monte brand in the Asian-Pacifi c region, the war. excluding the Philippines. 1950–Wartime soy sauce controls end and free 1990 February–A joint venture company, President competition resumes. Kikkoman Inc. is established to produce soy sauce in Tainan, 1957 June–Kikkoman International Inc. (KII) is in Taiwan. established in San Francisco, California, in the United States. 1996 April–Kikkoman establishes Kikkoman Foods 1958–Th e fi rst KII branch is established in Los Angeles. Europe B.V., Europe’s fi rst soy sauce manufacturer, located in 1960–Th e second KII branch is established in New York. Hoogezand-Sappemeer, in the Netherlands. 1961 July–Kikko Food Corporation is established (later 1996 May–Production of Shochu a clear Japanese spirit, renamed Kikko Food Industries Co., Ltd.). In July 1991, the commences at a new facility of the Ojima Plant. company becomes Nippon Del Monte Corporation. 1997 March–Kikkoman holds a ground-breaking 1961–Seishin Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. established. ceremony for its second U.S. soy sauce production plant, in 1962 February–Tone Beverage Co., Ltd., is established. Folsom, California, in the United States. In February 1963, the company becomes Tone Coca-Cola 1997 October–Kikkoman Foods Europe B.V. begins Bottling Co., Ltd. operations at its plant [in Hoogezand-Sappemeer, the 1962 October–Katsunuma Yoshu Co., Ltd., is established Netherlands]. in Japan. In March 1964, the company becomes Mann’s Wine 1998 October–Th e second shoyu manufacturing plant Co., Ltd. 1963–Japan Calpak Co., Ltd. established. of Kikkoman Foods, Inc., in Folsom, California, begins 1964 October–Noda Shoyu Co., Ltd., is renamed shipments. Kikkoman Shoyu Co., Ltd. 1999 July–Kikkoman opens its new headquarters in 1965–Th e third KII branch is established in Chicago, Noda, Chiba prefecture, to commemorate the Company’s Illinois. 80th anniversary. 1966–Sales of Higeta brand products assumed by 1999 October–Kikkoman Institute for International Food Kikkoman. Culture is opened at the Company’s new headquarters. 1968–Bottling of Kikkoman Soy Sauce for the American 1999 November–Kikkoman announces a joint venture market begins at the Leslie Foods plant in Oakland, with its partner in Taiwan [Uni-President Enterprises, California. Taiwan’s largest food manufacturer] to build a soy sauce plant 1969 June–Kikkoman invests in and merges with Japan in China [In Kunshan, near Shanghai]. Food corporation, the biggest distributor of Oriental food in 2000 May–Kunshan President Kikkoman Biotechnology the United States. In June 1978 the company becomes JFC Co., Ltd. (a joint-venture company) is established. International Inc. 2000 Aug.–Construction starts on a soy sauce plant in 1970 March–Kikkoman invests in and merges with China. Th e fi rst shipments are slated for spring 2002. Pacifi c Trading Co., Ltd., a sister company of Japan Food 2002 May–Th e China plant Kunshan President Kikkoman Corporation. Biotechnology Co., Ltd., holds its grand opening. 1972 March–Kikkoman Foods, Inc. (KFI), is established 2003 May–Kikkoman Foods, Inc. (with its plant at in Walworth, Wisconsin (USA) for the purpose of Walworth, Wisconsin) holds its 30th anniversary ceremony. manufacturing soy sauce and teriyaki sauce. Shipping is 2004 March–Kikkoman invests in Higeta Shoyu Co., scheduled to start in early 1973. Ltd. and Kibun Food Chemifa Co., Ltd. (Th e latter makes 1972 August–Kikkoman + Daitokai (Europe) GmbH is soymilk). established in Düsseldorf, in Germany. 2006 June–Kibun Food Chemifa Co., Ltd. becomes a 1974 February–Kikkoman Restaurant, Inc. is established. consolidated subsidiary of Kikkoman. 1979 March–Kikkoman Trading Europe GmbH is 2007–Kikkoman celebrates its 50th anniversary in the established in Neuss, in Germany. U.S. 1980 October–Kikkoman Shoyu Co., Ltd. is renamed 2008–Kikkoman rolls out its new corporate brand logo Kikkoman Corporation–the company’s present name. and slogan globally. 1983 January–Kikkoman Ajinomingei Co., Ltd., is 2009 Oct.–Kikkoman shift s to a holding company established. structure. 1983 June–Kikkoman (S) Pte. Ltd., a production facility, is established in Singapore. 1983 October–Kikkoman Business Development Inc. is An asterisk (*) at the end of the record means that established. SOYFOODS CENTER does not own that document.

A plus aft er eng (eng+) means that SOYFOODS CENTER has done a partial or complete translation into English of that document. An asterisk in a listing of number of references [23* ref] means that most of these references are not about soybeans or soyfoods.

Aveline and Michio Kushi, Japanese- American teachers of macrobiotiocs, were instrumental in introducing soyfoods - especially miso, shoyu, tempeh and tofu - to America.

SUBJECT/GEOGRAPHICAL INDEX BY RECORD NUMBERS Asia (General, Including East, Southeast, South, Middle East, and Central). 1195

Aburagé. See Tofu, Fried Asia, East–China (People’s Republic of China; Including Tibet. Zhonghua Renmin Gonghe Guo). 106, 107, 108, 321, ADM. See Archer Daniels Midland Co. 953, 1059, 1067, 1085, 1128, 1181, 1200, 1201, 1203, 1204, 1211, 1212, 1213, 1217, 1219, 1259 Adventists, Seventh-day. See Seventh-day Adventists Asia, East–Chinese overseas. See Chinese Overseas, Adzuki bean. See Azuki Bean Especially Work with Soy (Including Chinese from Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, etc.) Agronomy, soybean. See Cultural Practices, Soybean Production Asia, East–Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (British Colony until 1 July 1997, then returned to China). 1137, 1259 Aihara, Herman and Cornellia–Th eir Life and Work with Macrobiotics. 1137 Asia, East–Japan (Nihon or Nippon). 2, 19, 31, 45, 46, 60, 61, 101, 104, 106, 107, 108, 120, 154, 159, 184, 213, 240, 244, Ajinomoto Co. Inc. (Tokyo, Japan). 1085 245, 250, 321, 823, 859, 861, 887, 919, 948, 949, 953, 960, 993, 994, 995, 999, 1000, 1003, 1019, 1022, 1024, 1028, 1032, 1039, Alfalfa or Lucerne / Lucern (Medicago sativa). 802 1040, 1056, 1059, 1067, 1069, 1073, 1079, 1080, 1081, 1082, 1083, 1085, 1088, 1099, 1100, 1101, 1103, 1105, 1108, 1113, Almonds Used to Flavor Commercial Soymilk, Soy 1118, 1119, 1124, 1125, 1127, 1130, 1131, 1136, 1137, 1142, Ice Cream, Soy Cheese, Amazake, Rice Milk, or Other 1145, 1157, 1158, 1159, 1160, 1161, 1166, 1167, 1168, 1169, Commercial Non-Dairy Products. 1109 1172, 1173, 1174, 1182, 1187, 1192, 1205, 1211, 1212, 1213, 1233, 1259 Amazake. See Rice Milk (Non-Dairy) Asia, East–Japan–Japanese Restaurants or Grocery Stores American Miso Co. (Rutherfordton, North Carolina). 1190 Outside Japan, or Soy Ingredients Used in Japanese-Style Recipes, Food Products, or Dishes outside Japan. 758, 832 American Soy Products (Michigan). See Natural Foods Distributors and Manufacturers in the USA–Eden Foods Asia, East–Japanese overseas. See Japanese Overseas, Especially Work with Soy American Soy Products (Saline, Michigan). Started Nov. 1986. 1103, 1137, 1157, 1160 Asia, East–Korea (North and South; Formerly Also Spelled Corea and Called “Chosen” by the Japanese [1907-1945]). American Soybean Association (ASA)–State Soybean 107, 108, 953, 1044, 1067, 1085, 1137 Associations and Boards (Starting with Minnesota in 1962). 1190 Asia, East–Korea–Korean Restaurants Outside Korea, or Soy Ingredients Used in Korean-Style Recipes, Food Products, or American Soybean Association (ASA)–State Soybean Dishes outside Korea. 961 Associations and United Soybean Board–Activities Related to Food Uses of Soybeans / Soyfoods, or Soy Nutrition, in the Asia, East–Koreans overseas. See Koreans Overseas, United States (Not Including Soy Oil or Edible Oil Products). Especially Work with Soy 957, 1190 Asia, East–Manchuria (Called Manchukuo by Japanese Archer Daniels Midland Co. (ADM) (Decatur, Illinois; 1932-45; Th e Provinces of Heilongjiang [Heilungkiang], Jilin Minneapolis, Minnesota until 1969). 1190 [Kirin], and Liaoning Were Called Northeast China aft er 1950). 244, 321 Argentina. See Latin America, South America–Argentina Asia, East–Manchuria. See South Manchuria Railway and Arrowhead Mills (Hereford, Deaf Smith County, Texas). the South Manchuria Railway Company (Minami Manshu Established in Aug. 1960 by Frank Ford. Including Tetsudo K.K.) Arrowhead Distributing. 1115

Asia, East–Taiwan (Republic of China. Widely called by Bean curd. See Tofu its Portuguese name, Formosa, from the 1870s until about 1945). 321, 1085, 1107, 1137, 1169, 1201, 1211, 1217, 1259 Bean paste. See Miso

Asia, Southeast–Malaysia, Federation of (Including East Beef alternatives. See Meat Alternatives–Beef Alternatives, Malaysia Composed of Sarawak and Sabah. British Borneo Including Beef Jerky, etc. See also Meatless Burgers or North Borneo from about 1881 to 1963). Federation of Malaya before 1963. 953 Belleme, John. See American Miso Co. (Rutherfordton, North Carolina) Asia, Southeast–Philippines, Republic of the. 107, 321, 1085 Benni, Benne, Benniseed. See Sesame Seed Asia, Southeast–Singapore (Part of the Straits Settlements [British] from 1826 to 1946). 107, 1137, 1259 Bibliographies and / or Reviews of the Literature (Contains More Th an 50 References or Citations). 1079, 1168 Asia, Southeast–Vietnam / Viet Nam, Socialist Republic of (North and South) (Divided by French into Tonkin, Annam, Biographies, Biographical Sketches, and Autobiographies–See and Cochinchine from 1887-1945). 108, 1085 also: Obituaries. 1080

Asia, Southeast–Vietnamese overseas. See Vietnamese Black Bean Sauce or / Black Soybean Sauce / Soy Nugget Overseas, Especially Work with Soy Sauce. Occasionally Called Black Bean Paste. Made in the Kitchen by Crushing Salted, Fermented Black Soybeans, Aspergillus oryzae. See Koji, Miso, or Soy Sauce Usually with Minced Ginger, Garlic, Chilis and/or Chinese- style Wine. It is not a Commercial Product or Sauce. See Also Australasia. See Oceania Black Soybean Jiang (a Commercial Product). 1175

Australia. See Oceania–Australia Black soybean sauce. See Black Bean Sauce

Azuki Bean–Etymology of Th ese Terms and Th eir Cognates/ Black soybeans. See Soybean Seeds–Black, Whole Dry Relatives in Various Languages. 244 Soybeans–Black Seeded

Azuki Bean. Vigna angularis (Willd.) Ohwi & H. Ohashi. Boca Burger. See Kraft Foods Inc. Also called Adzuki, Aduki, Adsuki, Adzinki, Red Bean, Chinese Red Bean, Red Mung Bean, Small Red Bean. Brassica napus. See Rapeseed Japanese–Kintoki, Komame, Shôzu. Chinese–Xiaodou, Chixiaodou, Hsiao Tou [Small Bean], Ch’ih Hsiao Tou [Red Brazil. See Latin America, South America–Brazil Small Bean]. Former scientifi c names: Phaseolus radiatus (L.), Dolichos angularis (Willd.), Phaseolus angularis (Willd.) British Columbia. See Canadian Provinces and Territories– Wight, or Azukia angularis (Willd.) Ohwi. 244, 967, 1158 British Columbia

Azumaya, Inc. (Started Making Tofu in 1930 in San Brown rice. See Rice, Brown Francisco, California). Acquired by Vitasoy on 27 May 1993. 472, 557, 599, 613, 950, 951, 963, 1059, 1109, 1111, 1114, Burgers, meatless. See Meat Alternatives–Meatless Burgers 1125, 1135, 1137, 1147, 1199 and Patties

Bacteria causing toxicity. See Toxins and Toxicity in Foods Cake or meal, soybean. See Soybean Meal and Feeds–Microorganisms, Especially Bacteria, and that Cause Food Poisoning California. See United States–States–California

Barges used to transport soybeans. See Transportation of Canada. 107, 119, 120, 321, 392, 419, 544, 545, 546, 549, 550, Soybeans or Soy Products to Market by Water Using Barges, 967, 1108, 1143, 1259 Junks, etc Canadian Provinces and Territories–British Columbia. 107, Bean curd skin. See Yuba 119, 120, 321, 392, 419, 544, 545, 546, 549, 550, 967

Cartoons or Cartoon Characters. 823, 878, 888 410, 411, 412, 413, 414, 416, 417, 419, 420, 421, 422, 423, 424, 425, 426, 427, 429, 430, 431, 432, 433, 434, 435, 436, 437, 438, Central America. See Latin America–Central America 439, 440, 441, 442, 443, 444, 445, 446, 447, 448, 449, 450, 451, 452, 453, 454, 455, 456, 457, 458, 459, 460, 461, 462, 463, 464, Chemical / Nutritional Composition or Analysis (Of Seeds, 465, 466, 467, 468, 469, 470, 472, 474, 475, 478, 481, 482, 483, Plants, Foods, Feeds, Nutritional Components, for Animals 484, 485, 486, 487, 488, 489, 491, 493, 494, 495, 496, 497, 499, (Incl. Humans)). 1054 500, 501, 503, 504, 505, 507, 508, 509, 510, 511, 512, 513, 514, 515, 516, 517, 518, 519, 520, 521, 522, 523, 524, 525, 526, 527, Chicken, meatless. See Meat Alternatives–Meatless Chicken, 528, 529, 530, 531, 532, 534, 535, 536, 538, 539, 540, 541, 542, Goose, Duck, and Related Poultry Products. See also Meatless 543, 544, 545, 546, 547, 548, 549, 550, 551, 552, 554, 555, 556, Turkey 557, 558, 559, 560, 561, 562, 563, 564, 565, 566, 567, 568, 569, 570, 571, 572, 573, 574, 575, 576, 577, 578, 579, 580, 581, 582, Chico-San Inc. (Chico, California). Maker of Macrobiotic 583, 584, 585, 586, 587, 588, 589, 590, 591, 592, 593, 594, 595, and Natural Foods. Founded in March 1962. 891, 1056, 1069, 596, 597, 598, 599, 601, 602, 603, 604, 605, 607, 608, 609, 610, 1086, 1137 611, 612, 614, 615, 616, 617, 618, 622, 623, 624, 625, 626, 627, 628, 629, 631, 632, 633, 634, 635, 653, 654, 655, 656, 657, 658, China. See Asia, East–China 708, 743, 745, 746, 747, 748, 749, 750, 752, 753, 754, 755, 756, 757, 758, 759, 760, 761, 762, 763, 764, 766, 767, 770, 772, 776, Chinese Overseas, Especially Work with Soy (Including 783, 786, 787, 788, 789, 790, 791, 792, 793, 794, 795, 799, 802, Chinese from Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, etc.). 4, 102, 804, 806, 807, 808, 809, 811, 812, 813, 814, 815, 816, 817, 818, 109, 322, 404, 569, 822, 857, 895, 960, 1007, 1035, 1049, 1137 820, 821, 822, 825, 826, 828, 831, 836, 837, 838, 840, 841, 842, 843, 845, 846, 847, 848, 849, 850, 851, 852, 853, 854, 855, 856, Chronology / Timeline. 1259 857, 858, 862, 863, 864, 865, 866, 867, 869, 871, 872, 873, 881, 882, 883, 884, 885, 886, 890, 891, 892, 893, 894, 895, 896, 897, Chun King. 943, 1045, 1058, 1128, 1131, 1161 898, 899, 900, 901, 902, 903, 904, 905, 906, 909, 911, 912, 913, 914, 915, 916, 920, 921, 922, 923, 924, 925, 926, 927, 928, 929, Color of soybean seeds. See Soybean Seeds (of diff erent 930, 931, 932, 933, 935, 936, 937, 938, 945, 946, 950, 951, 961, colors) 962, 963, 964, 965, 968, 970, 971, 972, 973, 974, 975, 976, 977, 978, 979, 980, 981, 982, 984, 985, 986, 987, 988, 989, 990, 992, Commercial Soy Products–New Products, Mostly Foods. 3, 995, 1005, 1006, 1007, 1008, 1009, 1010, 1011, 1012, 1013, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 18, 22, 23, 26, 27, 28, 29, 1014, 1015, 1016, 1017, 1018, 1019, 1020, 1021, 1023, 1025, 30, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 1026, 1027, 1029, 1030, 1031, 1034, 1035, 1037, 1041, 1042, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 62, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 1046, 1047, 1048, 1049, 1050, 1051, 1055, 1060, 1061, 1062, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 1063, 1064, 1065, 1066, 1070, 1071, 1072, 1074, 1075, 1076, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 1077, 1078, 1086, 1087, 1089, 1091, 1092, 1093, 1094, 1095, 117, 118, 119, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 130, 1096, 1097, 1098, 1102, 1104, 1106, 1107, 1109, 1110, 1114, 131, 132, 133, 134, 135, 136, 137, 138, 139, 140, 141, 142, 143, 1115, 1116, 1117, 1120, 1121, 1122, 1126, 1129, 1132, 1133, 144, 145, 146, 147, 148, 149, 150, 151, 158, 160, 161, 162, 163, 1134, 1136, 1139, 1140, 1144, 1148, 1149, 1150, 1151, 1152, 164, 165, 166, 167, 168, 169, 170, 171, 172, 173, 174, 175, 176, 1153, 1154, 1162, 1163, 1164, 1165, 1175, 1180, 1181, 1182, 177, 178, 179, 180, 189, 190, 191, 192, 193, 194, 195, 196, 197, 1183, 1184, 1185, 1191, 1196, 1199, 1200, 1204, 1208, 1209, 198, 199, 200, 201, 202, 203, 204, 205, 206, 207, 208, 209, 215, 1210, 1214, 1215, 1216, 1218, 1219, 1220, 1221, 1226, 1227, 216, 217, 218, 219, 220, 221, 222, 223, 224, 225, 226, 227, 228, 1231, 1234, 1236, 1247, 1251 229, 230, 231, 232, 233, 234, 235, 236, 239, 247, 248, 249, 252, 253, 254, 256, 257, 258, 259, 260, 261, 262, 263, 264, 265, 266, Commercial soy products–earliest. See Historical–Earliest 267, 268, 269, 270, 271, 272, 273, 274, 276, 277, 278, 279, 280, Commercial Product 281, 283, 284, 285, 286, 287, 288, 289, 291, 292, 293, 294, 295, 296, 297, 298, 299, 300, 302, 303, 306, 307, 308, 309, 310, 311, Commercial tofu. See Tofu Production–How to Make Tofu 312, 313, 314, 315, 316, 318, 319, 320, 322, 323, 324, 325, 326, on a Commercial Scale 327, 329, 331, 332, 333, 334, 335, 336, 337, 338, 339, 340, 341, 342, 343, 344, 345, 346, 347, 348, 349, 350, 351, 352, 353, 354, Composition of soybeans, soyfoods, or feeds. See Chemical / 355, 356, 358, 359, 360, 362, 363, 364, 365, 366, 367, 368, 369, Nutritional Composition or Analysis 370, 371, 372, 373, 374, 375, 376, 377, 378, 379, 380, 381, 382, 383, 384, 385, 386, 387, 388, 389, 390, 391, 392, 394, 395, 396, Computerized Databases and Information Services, 397, 398, 399, 400, 401, 402, 403, 404, 405, 406, 407, 408, 409, Information or Publications About Th ose Concerning Soya.

1084 Documents with More Th an 20 Keywords. 106, 107, 108, 244, Cookbooks, macrobiotic. See Macrobiotic Cookbooks 321, 1084, 1085, 1099, 1108, 1131, 1137, 1190, 1259

Cookery, Cookbooks, and Recipes–Mostly Using Soy, Domestication of the soybean. See Origin, Domestication, Mostly Vegetarian. See also: the Subcategories–Vegetarian and Dissemination of the Soybean (General) Cookbooks, Vegan Cookbooks. 868, 878, 879, 880, 887, 888, 907, 908, 910, 951, 954, 959, 960, 996, 998, 1036, 1090, 1130, Dried-frozen tofu. See Tofu, Frozen or Dried-Frozen 1131, 1252 Earliest commercial soy products. See Historical–Earliest Cooperative Enterprises, Ventures, Research, or Experiments, Commercial Product and Cooperatives / Co-ops, Worldwide. See also: Soybean Crushers (USA)–Cooperative Crushers. 599, 753, 1135, 1145, Earliest document seen... See Historical–Earliest Document 1173, 1222 Seen

Corn / Maize (Zea mays L. subsp. mays)–Including Corn Oil, Edamamé. See Green Vegetable Soybeans, Green Vegetable Corn Germ Oil, Meal, Starch, and Gluten. 342, 907, 944, 947, Soybeans–Edamamé 954, 1098, 1114, 1212, 1219, 1226 Eden Foods, Inc. (Clinton, Michigan; Founded 4 Nov. 1969) Cottonseed Oil. Previously Spelled Cotton-Seed Oil or and American Soy Products (Saline, Michigan; Founded Aug. Cotton Oil. 557 1986). 1088, 1103, 1115, 1129, 1131, 1132, 1137, 1157, 1159, 1160, 1190 Cultural Practices, Cultivation & Agronomy (Including Crop Management, Erosion, Planting, Seedbed Preparation, Water Edible or food-grade soybeans. See Green Vegetable Management / Irrigation). 647, 732 Soybeans–Vegetable-Type, Garden-Type, or Edible Soybeans

Curds Made from Soymilk (Soft , Unpressed Tofu) as an End Embargoes, tariff s, duties. See Trade Policies (International) Product or Food Ingredient (Oboro, Daufu-fa, Doufu-hua, Concerning Soybeans, Soy Products, or Soyfoods–Tariff s, Doufu-hwa, Douhua, Doufu-nao, Fu-nao, Toufu-hwa, Tow- Duties, Embargoes, Moratoriums foo-fah). 961 England. See Europe, Western–United Kingdom Dairy alternatives (soy based). See Soy Puddings, Custards, Parfaits, or Mousses, Soy Yogurt, Soymilk, Tofu (Soy Cheese) Enzymes Produced During Fermentations Involving Koji or Aspergillus Oryzae (Including Enzymes in Miso and Deceptive or misleading labeling or products. See Unfair Fermented Soy Sauce). 1073 Practices–Including Possible Deceptive / Misleading Labeling, Advertising, etc. See also: Adulteration Equipment for Soybean Processing (Not Including Farm Machinery). 1059 Demos, Steve. See White Wave, Inc. (Boulder, Colorado) Equipment for making tofu. See Tofu Equipment Directories–Japanese and Japanese-Americans in the USA. 19, 31, 45, 61, 64, 104, 120, 154, 184, 213, 240, 245, 250, 255, Erewhon (Boston, Massachusetts). Founded April 1966 by 282, 290, 301, 317, 330, 357, 393, 415, 418, 428, 476, 490, 492, Aveline and Michio Kushi in Boston. Merged with U.S. Mills 498, 502, 533, 537, 553, 600, 606, 613, 621, 744, 765, 779, 785, in 1986. 920, 923, 986, 1004, 1057, 1069, 1088, 1099, 1158 797, 798, 832, 860, 870, 918, 934, 991 Ernst, Andrew H. (1796-1860)–Pioneer Horticulturalist and Directories–Soybean Processors (Including Soyfoods Nurseryman of Cincinnati, Ohio. 1108 Manufacturers), Researchers, Conference Attendees, and Other Names and Addresses Related to Soyfoods, Essene Traditional Foods (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania). 1190 Vegetarianism, Macrobiotics, etc. See also Directories– Japanese American in USA. 244 Estrogens (in Plants–Phytoestrogens, Especially in Soybeans and Soyfoods), Including Isofl avones (Including Genistein, District of Columbia. See United States–States–District of Daidzein, Glycetein, Coumestrol, Genistin, and Daidzin). Columbia 1196, 1201, 1215, 1218, 1220

Fertilizer, soybean meal used as. See Soybean Meal / Cake, Etymology. See the specifi c product concerned (e.g. soybeans, Fiber (as from Okara), or Shoyu Presscake as a Fertilizer or tofu, soybean meal, etc.) Manure for the Soil

Euronature (Paris, France). See Lima N.V. / Lima Foods Fiber–Okara or Soy Pulp–Etymology of Th is Term and Its (Sint-Martens-Latem, Belgium; and Mezin, France) Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 1137

Europe, Western–Austria (Österreich). 106, 1079, 1142 Fiber–Okara or Soy Pulp, Used as an Ingredient in Commercial Soyfood Products. 611, 964, 1017, 1139 Europe, Western–Belgium, Kingdom of. 1099 Fiber–Okara or Soy Pulp, from Making Soymilk or Tofu. Europe, Western–Denmark (Danmark; Including the 1135, 1137 Province of Greenland [Kalaallit Nunaat]). 1159 Fiber–Presscake, Residue or Dregs from Making Soy Sauce. Europe, Western–France (République Française). 106, 107, 1054 960, 1085 Flakes, from whole soybeans. See Whole Soy Flakes Europe, Western–Germany (Deutschland; Including East and West Germany, Oct. 1949–July 1990). 106, 108, 1213, 1259 Flour, soy. See Soy Flour

Europe, Western–Italy (Repubblica Italiana). 108 Food and Drug Administration (FDA, U.S. Dept. of Health and Human Services). 1134, 1141, 1146 Europe, Western–Netherlands, Kingdom of the (Koninkrijk der Nederlanden), Including Holland. 106, 321, 960, 1079, Food uses of soybeans in the USA, early. See Historical– 1142, 1173, 1213, 1259 Documents about Food Uses of Soybeans in the USA before 1900 Europe, Western–Portugal (República Portuguesa; Including Macao / Macau {Until 1999} and the Azores). 960 France. See Europe, Western–France

Europe, Western–Spain, Kingdom of (Reino de España). 960, Frozen desserts, non-dairy. See Soy Ice Cream 1159 Frozen tofu. See Tofu, Frozen or Dried-Frozen Europe, Western–United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (UK–Including England, Scotland, Wales, Ganmodoki. See Tofu, Fried Channel Islands, Isle of Man, Gibraltar). 106, 108, 1099, 1172, 1173 Genealogy and Family History. See Also: Obituaries, Biographies. 1080 Europe, Western. 108, 952, 1039, 1213 GeniSoy Products Co. (Fairfi eld, California). Including MLO Exports. See Trade of Soybeans, Oil & Meal, or see Individual and Mus-L-On. 1190 Soyfoods Exported Germany. See Europe, Western–Germany Family history. See Genealogy and Family History Gluten. See Wheat Gluten Fantastic Foods, Inc. (Petaluma, California). 1064, 1077, 1144, 1175 Golbitz, Peter. See Soyatech (Bar Harbor, Maine)

Fermented black beans (dow see). See Soy Nuggets Grainaissance, Inc. (Emeryville, California). 1143

Fermented tofu. See Tofu, Fermented Granules, from whole soybeans. See Whole Soy Flakes

Fermented whole soybeans. See Natto, Dawa-dawa, Kinema, Granum. See Natural Foods Distributors and Master Th ua-nao Distributors in the USA–Janus

Great Eastern Sun and Macrobiotic Wholesale Co. (North Hinoichi / Hinode, House Foods & Yamauchi Inc. See House Carolina). 1099, 1137 Foods America Corporation (Los Angeles, California)

Green Vegetable Soybeans (Edamamé)–Machinery or Historical–Documents (Published Aft er 1923) About Equipment Used for Harvesting or Picking, Sorting, Soybeans or Soyfoods Before 1900. 1108 Cleaning, and / or Shelling, Th reshing, or Depodding. 1162, 1170, 1203, 1211, 1222 Historical–Documents about Food Uses of Soybeans in the USA before 1900. 3, 4, 5 Green Vegetable Soybeans–Marketing of. 1225 Historical–Documents on Soybeans or Soyfoods Published Green Vegetable Soybeans–Th e Word Edamame (Japanese- Before 1900. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 Style, in the Pods), Usually Grown Using Vegetable-Type Soybeans–Appearance in European-Language Documents. Historical–Documents on Soybeans or Soyfoods Published 913, 992, 1002, 1107, 1162, 1165, 1169, 1170, 1179, 1181, from 1900 to 1923. 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 1200, 1201, 1202, 1203, 1204, 1207, 1210, 1211, 1212, 1214, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 1215, 1217, 1219, 1220, 1221, 1222, 1223, 1225, 1232, 1237, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 1249 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, Green Vegetable Soybeans–Vegetable-Type, Garden-Type, or 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102, Edible of Food-Grade Soybeans, General Information About, 103, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, Including Use As Green Vegetable Soybeans. 1212, 1222 116, 117, 118, 119, 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132, 133, 134, 135, 136, 137, 138, 139, 140, 141, Green Vegetable Soybeans Industry and Market Statistics, 142, 143, 144, 145, 146, 147, 148, 149, 150, 151, 152, 153, 154, Trends, and Analyses–Individual Companies. 1201, 1202, 155, 156, 157, 158, 159, 160, 161, 162, 163, 164, 165, 166, 167, 1207, 1237, 1249 168, 169, 170, 171, 172, 173, 174, 175, 176, 177, 178, 179, 180, 181, 182, 183, 184, 185, 186, 187, 188, 189, 190, 191, 192, 193, Green Vegetable Soybeans, Usually Grown Using Vegetable- 194, 195, 196, 197, 198, 199, 200, 201, 202, 203, 204, 205, 206, Type Soybeans. 104, 913, 992, 1002, 1107, 1162, 1165, 1169, 207, 208, 209, 210, 211, 212, 213, 214, 215, 216, 217, 218, 219, 1170, 1179, 1181, 1186, 1200, 1201, 1202, 1203, 1204, 1207, 220, 221, 222, 223, 224, 225, 226, 227, 228, 229, 230, 231, 232, 1210, 1211, 1212, 1214, 1215, 1217, 1218, 1219, 1220, 1221, 233, 234, 235, 236, 237, 238, 239, 240, 241, 242, 243, 244, 245, 1222, 1223, 1225, 1232, 1237, 1249 246, 247, 248, 249, 250, 251, 252, 253, 254, 255, 256, 257, 258, 259, 260, 261, 262, 263, 264, 265, 266, 267, 268, 269, 270, 271, Green soybeans. See Soybean Seeds–Green 272, 273, 274, 275, 276, 277, 278, 279, 280, 281, 282, 283, 284, 285, 286, 287, 288, 289, 290, 291, 292, 293, 294, 295, 296, 297, Grilled tofu. See Tofu, Grilled. Japanese-Style 298, 299, 300, 301, 302, 303, 304, 305, 306, 307, 308, 309, 310, 311, 312, 313, 314, 315, 316, 317, 318, 319, 320, 321, 322, 323, Groundnuts. See Peanut 324, 325, 326, 327, 328

Guam. See Oceania–Guam Historical–Earliest Commercial Product Seen of a Particular Type or Made in a Particular Geographic Area. 3, 4, 7, 8, 10, HVP type soy sauce. See Soy Sauce, HVP Type (Non- 12, 48, 80, 138, 192, 198, 204, 247, 324, 326, 345, 392, 396, Fermented or Semi-Fermented) 435, 437, 658, 840, 891, 909, 913

Hamanatto. See Soy Nuggets Historical–Earliest Document Seen on a Particular Geographical Area–a Nation / Country, U.S. State, Canadian Hawaii. See United States–States–Hawaii Province, or Continent. 2, 58, 106

Higashimaru. See Soy Sauce Companies (Asia) Historical–Earliest Document Seen on a Particular Subject. 19, 41, 106, 323, 636, 727, 998, 1103 Higeta (Choshi, Japan). Its Shoyu is Marketed by Kikkoman. 187, 244, 844, 1085, 1168, 1173, 1259 Historical–Earliest Document Seen on a Particular Subject. 47, 48, 198, 204, 251, 472, 599, 840 Higeta. See Soy Sauce Companies (Asia) Historically Important Events, Trends, or Publications. 4, 8,

50, 244, 302, 323, 324, 326, 396, 791, 928, 1041, 1051, 1201 Important Documents #2–Th e Next Most Important. 1059, History–Chronology. See Chronology / Timeline 1084, 1112, 1135, 1137, 1168

History. See also Historical–Earliest..., Biography, Imports. See Trade of Soybeans, Oil & Meal, or see Individual Chronology / Timeline, and Obituaries. 14, 22, 23, 102, 106, Soyfoods Imported 107, 108, 109, 247, 417, 504, 610, 953, 958, 959, 960, 966, 967, 1032, 1039, 1056, 1059, 1067, 1069, 1079, 1081, 1083, 1085, Indiana. See United States–States–Indiana 1099, 1108, 1123, 1127, 1130, 1135, 1137, 1142, 1143, 1155, 1156, 1158, 1161, 1165, 1166, 1168, 1172, 1173, 1174, 1178, Industrial uses of soybeans. See Soybean Meal / Cake, Fiber 1186, 1187, 1192, 1198, 1205, 1223, 1229, 1232, 1237, 1238, (as from Okara), or Shoyu Presscake as a Fertilizer or Manure 1239, 1249, 1257, 1258, 1259 for the Soil

Hoisin / Haisien Sauce. 1077 Industry and Market Analyses and Statistics–Market Studies. 159, 1079, 1085 Holland. See Europe, Western–Netherlands Information, computerized. See Computerized Databases and Homemade miso. See Miso, Homemade–How to Make at Information Services, and Websites Home or on a Laboratory or Community Scale, by Hand Internment / relocation camps in the United States. See Homemade rice milk (amazake). See Rice Milk (Non- Japanese the the United States–Work with Soy in Internment Dairy)–Amazake, Homemade–How to Make at Home or on / Relocation Camps during World War II a Laboratory Scale, by Hand Introduction of Soybeans (as to a Nation, State, or Region, Hong Kong. See Asia, East–Hong Kong with P.I. Numbers for the USA) and Selection. 1108

House Foods America Corporation (Los Angeles, California). Iowa State University / College (Ames, Iowa), and Univ. of Formerly Hinoichi / Hinode, House Foods & Yamauchi Inc. Iowa (Iowa City). 1190 265, 323, 402, 504, 595, 610, 753, 755, 853, 894, 897, 921, 922, 929, 988, 1018, 1037, 1055, 1059, 1084, 1102, 1121, 1135, Iowa. See United States–States–Iowa 1137, 1138, 1147, 1187, 1188, 1192, 1194 Island Spring, Inc. (Vashon, Washington). 984, 1084 Ice cream, soy. See Soy Ice Cream Isofl avones in soybeans and soyfoods. See Estrogens, Incl. Illinois. See United States–States–Illinois Genistein, Daidzein, etc.

Illustrations (Oft en Line Drawings) Published before 1924. Isolated soy proteins. See Soy Proteins–Isolates See also Photographs. 59, 69, 77, 110, 187, 212, 247, 251, 252, 263, 265, 270, 279, 281, 305, 320 Jackson, James Caleb (1811-1881). American Health Reformer and Vegetarian (New York). 1108 Illustrations Published aft er 1923. See also Photographs. 331, 379, 472, 557, 620, 621, 658, 682, 708, 747, 758, 776, 791, 796, Jang–Korean-Style Fermented Soybean Paste. Includes 804, 810, 823, 825, 861, 870, 873, 874, 875, 878, 887, 888, 907, Doenjang / Toenjang / Doen Jang / Daen Chang (Soybean 908, 909, 910, 920, 928, 940, 949, 951, 957, 959, 960, 993, 994, Miso), and Kochujang / Koch’ujang / Gochujang / Kochu 996, 1019, 1021, 1031, 1041, 1043, 1054, 1060, 1062, 1100, Jang / Ko Chu Jang / Kochu Chang (Red-Pepper and Soybean 1134, 1148, 1154, 1156, 1176, 1177, 1199, 1200, 1213, 1230, Paste). 603 1231, 1247 Janus Natural Foods (Seattle, Washington). And Granum. Implements, agricultural. See Machinery (Agricultural), 1099 Implements, Equipment and Mechanization Japan. See Asia, East–Japan Important Documents #1–Th e Very Most Important. 2, 19, 41, 58, 106, 323, 396, 636, 727, 859, 998, 1079, 1085, 1103, Japanese Overseas, Especially Work with Soy or 1108, 1257 Macrobiotics. 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17,

18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 743, 744, 745, 746, 747, 748, 749, 750, 752, 753, 754, 755, 756, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 758, 759, 760, 761, 762, 763, 764, 765, 766, 767, 768, 769, 770, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 771, 772, 773, 774, 775, 776, 777, 778, 779, 780, 781, 782, 783, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 784, 785, 786, 787, 789, 790, 791, 792, 793, 794, 795, 796, 797, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 798, 799, 800, 801, 802, 803, 804, 805, 806, 807, 808, 809, 810, 102, 103, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 811, 812, 813, 814, 815, 816, 817, 818, 819, 820, 821, 823, 824, 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 825, 826, 827, 828, 829, 830, 831, 832, 833, 834, 835, 836, 837, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132, 133, 134, 135, 136, 137, 138, 139, 140, 838, 839, 840, 841, 842, 843, 844, 845, 846, 847, 848, 849, 850, 141, 142, 143, 144, 145, 146, 147, 148, 149, 150, 151, 152, 153, 851, 852, 853, 854, 855, 856, 858, 859, 860, 861, 862, 863, 864, 154, 155, 156, 157, 158, 159, 160, 161, 162, 163, 164, 165, 166, 865, 866, 867, 868, 869, 870, 871, 872, 873, 874, 875, 876, 877, 167, 168, 169, 170, 171, 172, 173, 174, 175, 176, 177, 178, 179, 878, 879, 880, 881, 882, 883, 884, 885, 886, 887, 888, 889, 890, 180, 181, 182, 183, 184, 185, 186, 187, 188, 189, 190, 191, 192, 891, 892, 893, 894, 895, 896, 897, 898, 899, 900, 901, 902, 903, 193, 194, 195, 196, 197, 198, 199, 200, 201, 202, 203, 204, 205, 904, 905, 906, 907, 908, 909, 910, 911, 912, 913, 914, 915, 916, 206, 207, 208, 209, 210, 211, 212, 213, 214, 215, 216, 217, 218, 918, 919, 920, 921, 922, 923, 924, 925, 926, 927, 928, 929, 930, 219, 220, 221, 222, 223, 224, 225, 226, 227, 228, 229, 230, 231, 931, 932, 933, 934, 935, 936, 937, 938, 939, 940, 941, 942, 944, 232, 233, 234, 235, 236, 237, 238, 239, 240, 241, 242, 243, 244, 945, 946, 947, 948, 949, 950, 951, 952, 953, 954, 955, 956, 957, 245, 246, 247, 248, 249, 250, 251, 252, 253, 254, 255, 256, 257, 958, 959, 960, 961, 962, 963, 964, 965, 966, 967, 968, 969, 970, 258, 259, 260, 261, 262, 263, 264, 265, 266, 267, 268, 269, 270, 971, 972, 975, 976, 977, 978, 979, 980, 981, 982, 983, 984, 985, 271, 272, 273, 274, 275, 276, 277, 278, 279, 280, 281, 282, 283, 986, 988, 989, 990, 991, 992, 993, 994, 995, 996, 997, 998, 999, 284, 285, 286, 287, 288, 289, 290, 291, 292, 293, 294, 295, 296, 1000, 1001, 1002, 1003, 1004, 1005, 1008, 1009, 1010, 1011, 297, 298, 299, 300, 301, 302, 303, 304, 305, 306, 307, 308, 309, 1012, 1013, 1014, 1015, 1016, 1017, 1018, 1019, 1020, 1021, 310, 311, 312, 313, 314, 315, 316, 317, 318, 319, 320, 321, 323, 1022, 1023, 1024, 1025, 1026, 1027, 1028, 1029, 1030, 1031, 324, 325, 326, 327, 328, 329, 330, 331, 332, 333, 334, 335, 336, 1034, 1036, 1037, 1038, 1039, 1040, 1041, 1042, 1043, 1044, 337, 338, 339, 340, 341, 342, 343, 344, 345, 346, 347, 348, 349, 1045, 1046, 1047, 1048, 1050, 1051, 1052, 1053, 1054, 1055, 350, 351, 352, 353, 354, 355, 356, 357, 358, 359, 360, 361, 362, 1057, 1058, 1059, 1060, 1061, 1062, 1063, 1064, 1065, 1066, 363, 364, 365, 366, 367, 368, 369, 370, 371, 372, 373, 374, 375, 1067, 1068, 1069, 1071, 1072, 1074, 1075, 1076, 1077, 1078, 376, 377, 378, 379, 380, 381, 382, 383, 384, 385, 386, 387, 388, 1079, 1080, 1081, 1082, 1083, 1084, 1086, 1087, 1090, 1091, 389, 390, 391, 392, 393, 394, 395, 396, 397, 398, 399, 400, 401, 1092, 1093, 1094, 1095, 1096, 1097, 1099, 1100, 1101, 1102, 402, 403, 405, 406, 407, 408, 409, 410, 411, 412, 413, 414, 415, 1104, 1105, 1106, 1107, 1108, 1109, 1110, 1111, 1112, 1113, 416, 417, 418, 419, 420, 421, 422, 423, 424, 425, 426, 427, 428, 1114, 1115, 1116, 1117, 1119, 1120, 1121, 1122, 1123, 1124, 429, 430, 431, 432, 433, 434, 435, 436, 437, 438, 439, 440, 441, 1125, 1126, 1127, 1128, 1132, 1133, 1134, 1135, 1136, 1137, 442, 443, 444, 445, 446, 447, 448, 449, 450, 451, 452, 453, 454, 1138, 1139, 1140, 1143, 1144, 1145, 1147, 1148, 1149, 1150, 455, 456, 457, 458, 459, 460, 461, 462, 463, 464, 465, 466, 467, 1151, 1152, 1153, 1154, 1155, 1156, 1161, 1162, 1163, 1164, 468, 469, 470, 471, 472, 473, 474, 475, 476, 477, 478, 479, 480, 1165, 1166, 1167, 1168, 1169, 1170, 1171, 1172, 1173, 1174, 481, 482, 483, 484, 485, 486, 487, 488, 489, 490, 491, 492, 493, 1175, 1176, 1177, 1178, 1179, 1180, 1181, 1182, 1183, 1184, 494, 495, 496, 497, 498, 499, 500, 501, 502, 503, 504, 505, 506, 1185, 1186, 1188, 1191, 1192, 1195, 1196, 1197, 1198, 1199, 507, 508, 509, 510, 511, 512, 513, 514, 515, 516, 517, 518, 519, 1200, 1201, 1202, 1203, 1204, 1206, 1207, 1208, 1209, 1210, 520, 521, 522, 523, 524, 525, 526, 527, 528, 529, 530, 531, 532, 1211, 1212, 1214, 1215, 1216, 1217, 1218, 1219, 1220, 1221, 533, 534, 535, 536, 537, 538, 539, 540, 541, 542, 543, 544, 545, 1222, 1223, 1224, 1225, 1226, 1227, 1228, 1229, 1230, 1231, 546, 547, 548, 549, 550, 551, 552, 553, 554, 555, 556, 557, 558, 1232, 1234, 1235, 1236, 1237, 1238, 1239, 1240, 1241, 1242, 559, 560, 561, 562, 563, 564, 565, 566, 567, 568, 570, 571, 572, 1243, 1244, 1245, 1246, 1247, 1248, 1249, 1250, 1251, 1252, 573, 574, 575, 576, 577, 578, 579, 580, 581, 582, 583, 584, 585, 1253, 1254, 1255, 1256, 1257, 1258 586, 587, 588, 589, 590, 591, 592, 593, 594, 595, 596, 597, 598, 599, 600, 601, 602, 604, 605, 606, 607, 608, 609, 610, 611, 612, Japanese and Japanese-Americans in the USA–Directories. 613, 614, 615, 616, 617, 618, 619, 620, 621, 622, 623, 624, 625, See Directories–Japanese and Japanese-Americans in the 626, 627, 628, 629, 630, 631, 632, 633, 634, 635, 636, 637, 638, USA 639, 640, 641, 642, 643, 644, 645, 646, 647, 648, 649, 650, 651, 652, 653, 654, 655, 656, 657, 658, 659, 660, 661, 662, 663, 664, Japanese in the United States–Work with Soy in Internment 665, 666, 667, 668, 669, 670, 671, 672, 673, 674, 675, 676, 677, / Relocation Camps during World War II. 636, 637, 638, 639, 678, 679, 680, 681, 682, 683, 684, 685, 686, 687, 688, 689, 690, 640, 641, 642, 643, 644, 645, 646, 647, 648, 649, 650, 651, 652, 691, 692, 693, 694, 695, 696, 697, 698, 699, 700, 701, 702, 703, 659, 660, 661, 662, 663, 664, 665, 666, 667, 668, 669, 670, 671, 704, 705, 706, 707, 708, 709, 710, 711, 712, 713, 714, 715, 716, 672, 673, 674, 675, 676, 677, 678, 679, 680, 681, 682, 683, 684, 717, 718, 719, 720, 721, 722, 723, 724, 725, 726, 727, 728, 729, 685, 686, 687, 688, 689, 690, 691, 692, 693, 694, 695, 696, 697, 730, 731, 732, 733, 734, 735, 736, 737, 738, 739, 740, 741, 742, 698, 699, 700, 701, 702, 703, 704, 705, 706, 707, 709, 710, 711,

712, 713, 714, 715, 716, 717, 718, 719, 720, 721, 722, 723, 724, 725, 726, 727, 728, 729, 730, 731, 732, 733, 734, 735, 737, 738, Kushi, Michio and Aveline–Th eir Life and Work with 739, 740, 742, 751, 917, 966, 1123, 1135, 1156, 1197, 1198, Macrobiotics, and Organizations Th ey Founded or Inspired. 1239, 1245, 1250, 1256 920, 986, 1069, 1099, 1131, 1137, 1259

Japanese restaurants outside Japan, or Japanese recipes that Kyoto Food Corp. USA (Terre Haute, Indiana). 1148 use soy ingredients outside Japan. See Asia, East–Japan– Japanese Restaurants or Grocery Stores Outside Japan La Choy Food Products, Inc. Purchased in Sept. 1943 by Beatrice Creamery Co. 943, 1003, 1045, 1058, 1128, 1131, Kibun. See Soymilk Companies (Asia) 1137, 1161

Kikkoman Corporation (Tokyo, Walworth, Wisconsin; Latin America (General). 621 and Worldwide). Incl. Noda Shoyu Co. and Kikkoman International Inc., and Kikkoman Shoyu Co. 19, 46, 60, 100, Latin America–Central America–Costa Rica. 1224 104, 106, 107, 159, 187, 244, 304, 321, 328, 620, 716, 718, 769, 780, 810, 823, 830, 833, 844, 859, 861, 868, 870, 874, 875, 876, Latin America–Central America–Mexico. 1143 877, 878, 879, 880, 887, 888, 889, 907, 908, 910, 919, 940, 942, 943, 944, 947, 948, 949, 952, 953, 954, 955, 956, 957, 958, 959, Latin America–South America–Argentina (Argentine 960, 970, 983, 987, 997, 1001, 1003, 1020, 1036, 1043, 1045, Republic). 321 1058, 1062, 1063, 1066, 1067, 1073, 1076, 1079, 1080, 1081, 1082, 1083, 1085, 1097, 1098, 1114, 1118, 1119, 1122, 1125, Latin America–South America–Brazil, Federative Republic 1127, 1128, 1130, 1131, 1136, 1137, 1142, 1161, 1163, 1166, of. 1039 1168, 1173, 1182, 1189, 1193, 1205, 1206, 1208, 1213, 1229, 1233, 1234, 1259 Latin America–South America–Peru. 321

Kinako. See Roasted Whole Soy Flour (Kinako–Dark Laurelbrook Natural Foods (Bel Air, Maryland). 1099 Roasted, Full-Fat) Lea & Perrins. See Worcestershire Sauce Koji (Cereal Grains {Especially Rice or Barley} and / or Soybeans Fermented with a Mold, Especially Aspergillus Leviton, Richard. See Soyfoods Association of North America oryzae). 212, 247, 252, 264, 266, 270, 280, 281, 294, 302, 306, (SANA) 320, 327, 331, 332, 333, 416, 439, 454, 473, 491, 495, 503, 518, 521, 540, 543, 551, 552, 554, 566, 570, 571, 605, 619, 760, 825, Lightlife Foods, Inc. (Turners Falls, Massachusetts). Th e 960, 989, 998, 1002, 1004, 1014, 1054, 1068, 1073, 1090, 1124, Tempeh Works then Tempehworks before April 1987. 1143, 1171, 1174, 1177 Founded by Michael Cohen. 1190

Koji, Soybean (Soybeans Fermented with a Mold, Especially Lima N.V. / Lima Foods (Sint-Martens-Latem, Belgium; Aspergillus oryzae), Such as Miso-dama or Meju. 1054 and Mezin, France). Owns Jonathan P.V.B.A. Owned by Euronature of Paris, France, since 1989. Owned by the Hain- Korea. See Asia, East–Korea Celestial Group since 10 Dec. 2001. 1056, 1099

Korean-style fermented soybean paste. See Jang–Korean- Llama Toucan & Crow. See Stow Mills, Inc. Style Fermented Soybean Paste Los Angeles–City and County–Work with Soyfoods, Natural Korean-style recipes, soyfoods used in. See Asia, East–Korea– / Health Foods, and / or Vegetarianism. 12, 106, 252, 265, Soy Ingredients Used in Korean-Style Recipes 266, 274, 279, 281, 292, 297, 303, 321, 331, 379, 380, 396, 464, 491, 504, 536, 540, 555, 610, 615, 635, 753, 755, 814, 872, 873, Koreans Overseas, Especially Work with Soy. 322, 603, 1058, 894, 897, 908, 910, 913, 921, 922, 929, 935, 953, 970, 988, 989, 1128, 1131, 1137, 1143, 1190 992, 996, 998, 1002, 1004, 1014, 1018, 1025, 1033, 1034, 1037, 1038, 1050, 1055, 1059, 1064, 1068, 1075, 1077, 1084, 1087, Kosher Products (Commercial). 951, 1109, 1164, 1180, 1199 1090, 1095, 1096, 1102, 1106, 1107, 1113, 1114, 1116, 1117, 1119, 1120, 1121, 1124, 1126, 1134, 1135, 1137, 1138, 1143, Kraft Foods Inc. (Work with Soy). Including Anderson 1144, 1147, 1153, 1155, 1162, 1163, 1164, 1167, 1173, 1175, Clayton, Boca Burger, and Balance Bar. 1109 1181, 1183, 1186, 1187, 1188, 1192, 1194, 1195, 1198, 1200,

1201, 1202, 1203, 1207, 1209, 1210, 1214, 1215, 1216, 1219, Jerky, Chili Con Carne, Goulash, Lasagna, Meat Balls, Mince, 1220, 1221, 1222, 1224, 1228, 1229, 1259 Mincemeat, Sloppy Joes, Spaghetti Sauce, Steak, Veal, etc. See also Meatless Burgers. 1047 Lucerne / lucern. See Alfalfa or Lucerne Meat Alternatives–Meatless Burgers and Patties. See Also Lukoskie, Luke. See Island Spring, Inc. (Vashon, Washington) Meat Extenders. 599, 988, 1017, 1106

MSG (Monosodium Glutamate, the Sodium Salt of Glutamic Meat Alternatives–Meatless Chicken, Goose, Duck, and Acid). 1066, 1165 Related Poultry Products. See also Meatless Turkey. 1250

Machinery (Agricultural), Implements, Equipment, and Meat alternatives companies. See Turtle Island Foods, Inc. Mechanization (Binders, Cultivators, Cutters, Harvesters, (Hood River, Oregon. Maker of Tofurky and Tempeh) Mowers, Pickers, Planters, Reapers, Separators, Th rashers, or Th reshers). See also: Combines and Tractors. 1203 Media, Popular Articles on Soyfoods in the USA, Canada, or Related to North Americans in Asia. 1045, 1081, 1088 Macrobiotic Cookbooks. 1131 Membrane Technology Processes–Microfi ltration (MF), Macrobiotics. See Aihara, Herman and Cornellia–Th eir Life Ultrafi ltration (UF, including Diafi ltration), Reverse Osmosis and Work, Kushi, Michio and Aveline–Th eir Life and Work, (RO–also known as hyperfi ltration, HF), Electrodialysis Muramoto, Noboru–His Life and Work, Ohsawa, George and (ED), and Nanofi ltration (NF). 1076, 1152 Lima Mesoamerica. See Latin America–Central America Macrobiotics. See also: George Ohsawa, Michio and Aveline Kushi, Herman and Cornellia Aihara. 891, 920, 923, 986, Mexico. See Latin America, Central America–Mexico 1032, 1056, 1069, 1086, 1088, 1099, 1129, 1131, 1137, 1157, 1158, 1159, 1160 Michigan. See United States–States–Michigan

Madison Foods and Madison College (Madison, Tennessee). MicroSoy Corporation (Jeff erson, Iowa; Osaka, Japan). Madison Foods (Th en a Subsidiary of Nutritional Corp.) Was Formerly Nichii Co. and MYCAL Corp. 1145, 1164, 1190 Acquired by Worthington Foods in Aug. 1964. 1250 Milk, rice. See Rice Milk (Non-Dairy) Maize. See Corn / Maize Milk, soy. See Soymilk Manchuria. See Asia, East–Manchuria Minnesota. See United States–States–Minnesota Map / Maps. 967, 1187, 1206 Miso (Japanese-style Soybean Paste). See also: Jiang–for Market statistics. See the specifi c product concerned, e.g. Chinese-style Miso. Jang–for Korean-style Miso. And Taucho, Tofu Industry and Market Statistics Tauceo, Tau Chiow, Taoco, Tao-Tjo, Taotjo, Taocho, or Taoetjo for Indonesian-style Miso (Soybean Chiang, or Jiang Market studies. See Industry and Market Analyses [pinyin]). 2, 16, 19, 20, 21, 25, 26, 31, 32, 33, 34, 43, 45, 48, 50, 61, 62, 63, 99, 101, 103, 104, 153, 154, 155, 157, 181, 182, 183, Marketing–Soyfoods and Soyfood Products. 943, 1040 184, 187, 198, 204, 210, 211, 212, 213, 214, 238, 240, 247, 250, 251, 252, 255, 258, 259, 260, 264, 266, 269, 270, 274, 275, 281, Marketing of soyfoods. See Individual foods, e.g., Tofu– 282, 285, 290, 291, 292, 294, 296, 298, 299, 301, 302, 305, 306, Marketing of 310, 317, 320, 325, 327, 329, 330, 331, 332, 333, 336, 357, 369, 393, 415, 416, 418, 419, 421, 428, 439, 452, 454, 473, 476, 489, Marusan-Ai. See Soymilk Companies (Asia) 490, 492, 495, 498, 502, 503, 518, 521, 531, 533, 536, 537, 540, 543, 551, 553, 554, 566, 570, 571, 589, 600, 606, 611, 613, 619, Massachusetts. See United States–States–Massachusetts 620, 621, 635, 637, 639, 642, 666, 688, 692, 696, 700, 714, 715, 716, 717, 718, 719, 721, 735, 745, 747, 760, 761, 762, 776, 785, Meal or cake, soybean. See Soybean Meal 790, 825, 831, 832, 859, 870, 882, 911, 912, 920, 947, 949, 967, 972, 986, 989, 996, 998, 1002, 1004, 1014, 1025, 1026, 1028, Meat Alternatives–Beef Alternatives, Including Meatless Beef 1031, 1038, 1056, 1064, 1067, 1068, 1086, 1088, 1090, 1095,

1099, 1113, 1124, 1131, 1137, 1143, 1144, 1155, 1157, 1158, Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc., and Morinaga Nyûgyô 1175, 1186, 1190, 1195, 1198, 1216, 1241 (Torrance, California, and Tokyo, Japan). 995, 1019, 1033, 1039, 1085, 1096, 1101, 1114, 1116, 1117, 1124, 1134, 1137, Miso–Etymology of Th is Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in 1138, 1141, 1146, 1153, 1163, 1164, 1183, 1186, 1191, 1196, Various Languages. 1137 1209, 1218, 1226, 1227, 1231, 1236

Miso–Imports, Exports, International Trade. 20, 21, 25, 33, Mung Bean / Mungbean and Mung Bean Sprouts. Vigna 99, 101, 103, 153, 154, 155, 182, 187, 210, 211, 214, 238, 270, radiata L. Formerly Phaseolus aureus. Also called Green 275, 281, 473, 620, 859, 911, 912, 920, 972, 986, 1002, 1029, Gram. Chinese–Lüdou. Japanese–Moyashi. Indonesian: 1031, 1056, 1067, 1086, 1143, 1155 Kacang / katjang + hijau / ijo / hidjau. German–Buschbohne. French–Haricot Mungo. 342, 646, 666, 673, 721, 800, 856 Miso Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and Analyses– By Geographical Region. 1155 Muramoto, Noboru–His Life and Work with Macrobiotics, Organizations He Founded, and Commercial Products He Miso Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and Analyses– Made or Inspired. 1137 Individual Companies. 761, 882, 989, 1038, 1113, 1143, 1155 Muso Shokuhin–Natural Foods Exporter and Distributor Miso Soup–Mainly Japanese. 967, 1029, 1154, 1216 (Osaka, Japan). 920, 1056, 1069, 1088, 1099, 1103, 1131, 1137, 1157, 1158, 1159, 1160 Miso companies (USA). See American Miso Co. (Rutherfordton, North Carolina), Miyako Oriental Foods Nasoya Foods, Inc. (Leominster, Massachusetts). Subsidiary (Baldwin Park, California) of Vitasoy Since Aug. 1990. 1138, 1141

Miso, Homemade–How to Make at Home or on a Laboratory National Center for Agricultural Utilization Research or Community Scale, by Hand. 998 (NCAUR) (USDA-ARS) (Peoria, Illinois). Named Northern Regional Research Laboratory prior to July 1976. Named Miso, Used as an Ingredient in Commercial Products. 1029, Northern Regional Research Center prior to 28 Dec. 1991. 1154 947

Miso, soybean–Korean-style. See Jang–Korean-Style Natto (Whole Soybeans Fermented with Bacillus natto). 396, Fermented Soybean Paste 437, 476, 477, 555, 611, 613, 621, 818, 828, 897, 926, 962, 1002, 1059, 1124, 1137, 1247, 1251, 1252, 1253, 1254, 1255 Missouri. See United States–States–Missouri Natto–Etymology of Th is Term and Its Cognates / Relatives Mitoku–Natural Foods Exporter and Distributor (Tokyo, in Various Languages. 1137 Japan). 972, 1069, 1099, 1105, 1131 Natto Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and Analyses– Miyako Oriental Foods (Baldwin Park, California). 281, 989, Individual Companies. 897 996, 998, 1002, 1004, 1014, 1025, 1038, 1064, 1068, 1077, 1090, 1095, 1113, 1124, 1137, 1143, 1144, 1155, 1175, 1195, Natural / Vegetarian Food Products Companies. See 1198, 1216 American Natural Snacks, Boca Burger, Fantastic Foods, Gardenburger Mizono family. See Azumaya, Inc. (San Francisco, California) Natural Foods Distributors and Master Distributors (USA). Mochi. See Rice-Based Foods–Mochi See Arrowhead Mills (Hereford, Deaf Smith County, Texas), Eden Foods, Inc. (Clinton, Michigan). Founded 4 Nov. Monosodium glutamate. See MSG 1969, Erewhon (Boston, Massachusetts), Essene Traditional Foods (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania), Great Eastern Sun and Monsanto Co. (St. Louis, Missouri) and its HybriTech Seed Macrobiotic Wholesale Co. (North Carolina), Janus Natural International subsidiary. Acquired Jacob Hartz Seed Co. in Foods (Seattle, Washington), Laurelbrook Natural Foods (Bel April 1983. Acquired Asgrow in April Feb. 1997. Merged with Air, Maryland), Stow Mills, Inc. (Brattleboro, Vermont) Lama Pharmacia & Upjohn on 31 March 2000 and was renamed Trading Co., Tree of Life (St. Augustine, Florida), United Pharmacia Corp. 1190 Natural Foods, Inc. (UNFI), Well (Th e), Pure & Simple, and New Age Distributing Co. (San Jose, California), Westbrae

Natural Foods, Inc. (Berkeley, California) Territory, Norfolk Island, Territory of Ashmore and Cartier Islands, and Australian Antarctic Territory). 107, 108, 1159 Natural Foods Exporter and Distributor (Japan). See Mitoku (Tokyo, Japan) Oceania–Guam. 321

Natural Foods Exporters and Distributors (Japan). See Muso Oceania–New Zealand–Including Stewart Island, Chatham Shokuhin (Osaka, Japan) Islands, Snares Islands, Bounty Islands, and Tokelau (formerly Union Islands). 1099, 1159 Natural and Health Foods Retail Chains or Supermarkets: Bread & Circus (Tony Harnett, MA), Frazier Farms (Bill Ohio. See United States–States–Ohio Frazier, Southern Calif.), Fresh Fields (Rockville, MD), GNC = General Nutrition Corp. (Pittsburgh, PA), Mrs. Gooch’s Ohsawa, George and Lima–Th eir Life and Work with (Los Angeles, CA), Nature Foods Centres (Wilmington, MA; Macrobiotics (Also Sakurazawa Nyoichi, or Georges Ronald Rossetti), Trader Joe’s, Whole Foods Market (Austin, Ohsawa). 891, 1056, 1086, 1088, 1131, 1137 TX), Wild Oats. 1169, 1170, 1179, 1202, 1203, 1207 Oil, soy. See Soy Oil Netherlands. See Europe, Western–Netherlands Okara. See Fiber–Okara or Soy Pulp New England Soy Dairy. See Tomsun Foods, Inc. Okinawa / Ryukyu Islands / Great LooChoo (Part of Japan New York. See United States–States–New York Since 1972). 321, 383, 423, 517, 566, 567, 568, 574, 577, 579, 591 New Zealand. See Oceania–New Zealand Olive Oil. 1209 Nichii Company. See Whole Dry Soybean Flakes Organic Soybean Production (Commercial). See also: Nisshin Oil Mills, Ltd. (Tokyo, Japan). 1085 Soybean Production: Organically Grown Soybeans or Soybean Products in Commercial Food Products. 1157 North America. See United States of America, and Canada. For Mexico, see Latin America, Central America Organically Grown Soybeans or Organic Soybean Products in Commercial Food Products. 986, 1086, 1144, 1150, 1152, North Carolina. See United States–States–North Carolina 1155, 1184, 1216, 1218, 1226, 1227

Northern Regional Research Center (NRRC) (Peoria, Oriental Show-You Company. Purchased in 1963 by Beatrice Illinois). See National Center for Agricultural Utilization / La Choy. 342, 800, 1245 Research (NCAUR) (USDA-ARS) Origin, Evolution, Domestication, and Dissemination of the Northern Soy, Inc. (Rochester, New York). 1084 Soybean (General). 3

Nutrition Education (Or Lack Th ereof in Medical Schools), Origins, Evolution, Domestication, and Dissemination of Food Groups, and Food Pyramids. 1200 Soybeans (General). 859, 1079

Nutrition. See Chemical / Nutritional Composition Ota Family Tofu (Portland, Oregon. Founded in 1911). or Analysis, Toxins and Toxicity in Foods and Feeds– Before 1987 Ota Tofu Co. 141, 242, 243, 246, 287, 638, 669, Microorganisms, Especially Bacteria that Cause Food 803, 805, 967, 1084, 1112, 1156, 1197, 1241, 1242, 1243 Poisoning P.I. numbers of soybeans. See Introduction of Soybeans (as Nuts made from roasted soybeans. See Soynuts to a Nation, State, or Region, with P.I. Numbers for the USA) and Selection Oceania (General, Also Called Australasia, or Australia and Islands of the Pacifi c / Pacifi c Islands). 2 Pacifi c Foods of Oregon, Inc. (Tualatin, Oregon). 1147

Oceania–Australia, Commonwealth of (Including Tasmania, Pacifi c Islands. See Oceania Cocos (Keeling) Islands, Christmas Island, Coral Sea Islands

Packaging Equipment. 756, 1135 Protein Technologies International (PTI) (St. Louis, Missouri. Packaging Innovations and Problems. 1039, 1086, 1097 Established on 1 July 1987 as a Wholly-Owned Subsidiary of Ralston Purina Co.) Sold to DuPont on 3 Dec. 1997. 1153, Patents–References to a Patent in Non-Patent Documents. 1164 1019, 1096, 1103, 1168 Protein sources, alternative, from plants. See Azuki Bean, Patties, meatless. See Meat Alternatives–Meatless Burgers and Peanut & Peanut Butter, Sunfl ower Seeds, Wheat Gluten & Patties Seitan

Peanut / Peanuts (Arachis hypogaea or A. hypogæa)–Also Public Law 480 (Food for Peace Program. Formally– Called Groundnut, Earthnut, Monkey Nut, Goober / Gouber Agricultural Trade Development and Assistance Act of 1954). Pea, Ground Pea, or Pindar Pea / Pindars. 931, 1151, 1185, 947 1222, 1250 Puddings. See Soy Puddings, Custards, Parfaits, or Mousses Philippines. See Asia, Southeast–Philippines (Usually made from Soymilk

Photographs Published aft er 1923. See also Illustrations. 658, Pulmuone U.S.A., Inc. (South Gate, California). Brands 708, 716, 732, 736, 742, 757, 758, 759, 779, 786, 791, 795, 797, include Soga. 1190 823, 861, 871, 872, 873, 874, 875, 876, 877, 887, 888, 907, 908, 910, 917, 940, 944, 952, 955, 957, 959, 960, 967, 970, 994, 999, Pure & Simple. See Well (Th e), Pure & Simple 1000, 1003, 1020, 1022, 1043, 1048, 1051, 1052, 1063, 1066, 1088, 1090, 1097, 1098, 1101, 1103, 1107, 1109, 1113, 1114, Quong Hop & Co. (South San Francisco, California). 1147 1117, 1122, 1133, 1134, 1154, 1156, 1166, 1167, 1171, 1174, 1176, 1177, 1180, 1181, 1184, 1189, 1191, 1197, 1198, 1200, Railroad / railway / rail used to transport soybeans. See 1209, 1213, 1215, 1220, 1226, 1227, 1228, 1231, 1236, 1240, Transportation of Soybeans or Soy Products to Market by 1242, 1244, 1245, 1246, 1248 Railroad

Photographs Published before 1924. See also Illustrations. 14, Ralston Purina Co. (St. Louis, Missouri). Including Protein 15, 17, 19, 22, 31, 45, 61, 69, 104, 106, 107, 108, 110, 120, 154, Technologies International, a Wholly Owned Subsidiary from 156, 184, 213, 238, 240, 245, 250, 304, 328 1 July 1987 to 3 Dec. 1997. 1153, 1164

Phytoestrogens in soybeans and soyfoods. See Estrogens Rapeseed Oil. 244

Plums (salted / pickled), plum products, and the Japanese Rapeseed, the Rape Plant (Brassica napus), or Colza. See also plum tree (Prunus mumé).. See Umeboshi Canola. 244

Poultry, meatless. See Meat Alternatives–- Meatless Chicken, Recipes. See Cookery Goose, Duck, and Related Poultry Products. See also Meatless Turkey Regulations or Laws Concerning Foods (Use, Processing, or Labeling), Especially Soyfoods and Food Uses of Soybeans. Prices of Soybeans, Soybean Products, and Soybean Seeds. 1039 321 Regulations or laws concerning foods (Use, processing, or ProSoya–Including ProSoya Inc. (Ontario, Canada), and labeling). See Kosher Products (Commercial) ProSoya Corporation (Heuvelton, New York. No longer in Business), ProSoya UK Ltd. (ProSoya PLC) (Livingston, Republic of China (ROC). See Asia, East–Taiwan Scotland). Pacifi c ProSoya Foods, International ProSoya Corp. (IPC–British Columbia). 1190 Research & Development Centers. See Iowa State University / College (Ames, Iowa), and Univ. of Iowa (Iowa City), Production of soybeans. See Soybean Production National Center for Agricultural Utilization Research (NCAUR) (USDA-ARS) (Peoria, Illinois) Products, soy, commercial (mostly foods). See Commercial Soy Products–New Products Restaurants, Japanese, outside Japan, or Japanese recipes

© Copyright Soyinfo Center 2011 HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 318 that use soy ingredients outside Japan. See Asia, East–Japan– 1180, 1184, 1185, 1238 Japanese Restaurants or Grocery Stores Outside Japan Sea Vegetables or Edible Seaweeds, Oft en Used with Reverse osmosis. See Membrane Technology Processes Soyfoods. 988, 1002, 1088, 1121, 1154, 1158, 1222

Reviews of the literature. See Bibliographies and / or Reviews Seaweeds, edible. See Sea Vegetables of the Literature Seed companies, soybean. See Monsanto Co. (St. Louis, Rice Milk (Non-Dairy)–Amazake, Homemade–How to Make Missouri), Wannamaker (John E.) (St. Matthews, South at Home or on a Laboratory Scale, by Hand. 998 Carolina)

Rice Milk (Non-Dairy)–Amazake, Made with Rice Koji in the Sesame Seed (Sesamum indicum, formerly Sesamum Traditional Way (Without Adding Commercial Enzymes). orientale). (Also Called Ajonjoli, Benne, Benni, Benniseed, Also called Rice Milk or Rice Drink. 998, 1014, 1124, 1143 Gingelly, Gingely, Gingelie, Jinjili, Sesamum, Simsim, Teel, Til). Including Sesame as an Oilseed, Sesame Flour, and Rice Milk (Non-Dairy)–Made with Commercial Enzymes, or Sesame Salt / Gomashio. See also Sesame Butter / Tahini, a Mixture of Commercial Enzymes and Rice Koji. 1143 Sesame Cake or Meal, Sesame Milk, and Sesame Oil. 603, 920, 986, 1070, 1110, 1214, 1222 Rice Milk Companies. See Grainaissance, Inc. (Emeryville, California) Sesamum indicum. See Sesame Seed

Rice koji. See Koji Seventh-day Adventist work with vegetarianism. See Vegetarianism–Seventh-day Adventist Work with Rice wine. See Sake Seventh-day Adventists. See Madison Foods and Madison Rice, Brown. Also Called Whole Grain Rice or Hulled But College (Madison, Tennessee) Unpolished Rice. 920, 972, 986, 1069, 1070, 1105, 1251 Shakes–Made with Soymilk, Tofu, Amazake, Soy Protein, etc. Rice-Based Foods–Mochi (Cakes of Pounded, Steamed Usually non-dairy. 1117 Glutinous Rice {Mochigome}). 41, 795, 931, 967 Showa Sangyo Co. Ltd. (Tokyo, Japan). 1085 Roads or highways used to transport soybeans. See Transportation of Soybeans or Soy Products to Market by Showa Shoyu Brewing Co. (Glendale, Arizona). Maker of Roads or Highways Marusho Shoyu. Founded by John Tadano in 1941. 658, 727, 736, 741, 773, 798, 1229, 1240, 1244, 1245, 1246, 1248, 1256 Roasted Whole Soy Flour (Kinako–Dark Roasted with Dry Heat, Full-Fat). 871, 899 Shoyu. See Soy Sauce

Royal Wessanen NV Co. See Tree of Life (St. Augustine, Shurtleff , William. See Soyinfo Center (Lafayette, California) Florida) Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895)–Soybeans and Soyfoods. Ryukyu Islands. See Okinawa Rarely called Chinese-Japanese War. 1229

Saishikomi. See Soy Sauce–Saishikomi Smoothies–Made with Soymilk, Tofu, Soy Yogurt, Soy Protein Isolate, Rice Milk, or Other Non-Dairy Smoothie Sake–Rice Wine. In Japanese also spelled Saké, Saki, Sakki, Ingredients. Also spelled Smoothees. 1114, 1211, 1227 Sacke, Sackee, Saque. In Chinese spelled Jiu (pinyin) or Chiu (Wade-Giles). 20, 63, 99, 101, 103, 105, 153, 214, 1212, 1222 Solvents Used for Extraction of the Oil from Soybeans (General, Type of Solvent, Unspecifi ed, or Other). See also San Jirushi Corp., and San-J International (Kuwana, Japan; Ethanol, Hexane, and Trichloroethylene Solvents. 957 and Richmond, Virginia). Purchased in Nov. 2005 by Yamasa Corporation. 1026, 1028, 1032, 1040, 1041, 1051, 1052, 1053, Soup, miso. See Miso Soup 1054, 1057, 1070, 1071, 1078, 1094, 1100, 1104, 1110, 1115, 1128, 1129, 1132, 1133, 1137, 1151, 1152, 1154, 1168, 1178, South America. See Latin America–South America

250, 251, 252, 263, 268, 275, 284, 289, 297, 303, 304, 310, 320, South Manchuria Railway and the South Manchuria Railway 321, 322, 328, 336, 337, 342, 379, 380, 383, 384, 420, 433, 443, Company (Minami Manshu Tetsudo Kabushiki Kaisha). 244 444, 463, 464, 473, 506, 552, 554, 605, 620, 630, 636, 637, 639, 640, 642, 644, 646, 648, 649, 650, 654, 658, 659, 666, 670, 686, Soy Flour, Grits, Meal, Powder, or Flakes–For Food Use 694, 696, 708, 712, 715, 716, 717, 718, 720, 722, 723, 727, 736, (Usually Defatted or Low-Fat). See also Soy Flour–Whole or 741, 752, 758, 759, 761, 763, 768, 769, 771, 772, 773, 775, 776, Full-fat. 251, 1250 778, 780, 781, 782, 784, 788, 789, 790, 796, 797, 800, 801, 810, 811, 814, 823, 826, 827, 829, 830, 831, 833, 835, 839, 844, 859, Soy Ice Cream (General–Usually Non-Dairy). 1084, 1224 861, 866, 874, 875, 876, 877, 878, 879, 880, 883, 887, 888, 889, 891, 907, 908, 910, 916, 919, 923, 931, 937, 939, 940, 941, 942, Soy Ice Cream Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and 943, 944, 947, 948, 949, 952, 953, 954, 955, 956, 957, 958, 959, Analyses–Individual Companies. 1084 960, 966, 967, 970, 971, 983, 987, 997, 1001, 1002, 1003, 1021, 1036, 1043, 1044, 1045, 1056, 1058, 1067, 1069, 1073, 1076, Soy Nuggets–Whole Soybeans Fermented with Salt–Also 1079, 1080, 1081, 1082, 1083, 1085, 1088, 1094, 1099, 1100, called Fermented Black Beans, Salted Black Beans, Salty Black 1104, 1119, 1125, 1127, 1128, 1129, 1130, 1131, 1132, 1136, Beans, Black Fermented Beans, Black Beans, Black Bean 1137, 1142, 1151, 1157, 1158, 1161, 1166, 1167, 1168, 1171, Sauce, Black Bean and Ginger Sauce, Chinese Black Beans, or 1172, 1173, 1174, 1176, 1177, 1182, 1184, 1189, 1193, 1205, Preserved Black Beans. In Chinese (Mandarin): Shi, Doushi, 1206, 1208, 1213, 1222, 1229, 1230, 1233, 1238, 1240, 1241, or Douchi (pinyin), Tou-shih, Toushih, or Tou-ch’ih (Wade- 1244, 1245, 1246, 1248, 1256, 1259 Giles). Cantonese: Dow see, Dow si, Dow-si, Dowsi, or Do shih. In the Philippines: Tausi or Taosi / Tao-si. In Malaysia Soy Sauce–Saishikomi Shoyu (Twice-Brewed). 1032 or Th ailand: Tao si. In Indonesia: Tao dji, Tao-dji, or Tao-djie. In Japan: Hamanatto, Daitokuji Natto, Shiokara Natto, and Soy Sauce Companies (Asia)–Important Japanese Shoyu Tera Natto. 1002, 1124 Manufacturers Other Th an Kikkoman and Yamasa– Higashimaru, Higeta, Marukin, Choshi. 244, 1079, 1085, Soy Oil as a Commodity, Product, or Ingredient for Food 1131, 1168, 1173, 1259 Use (in Cookery or Foods). Its Manufacture, Refi ning, Trade, and Use. See Also: Industrial Uses of Soy Oil, and Nutrition: Soy Sauce Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and Lipids. 240, 244 Analyses–By Geographical Region. 159, 244, 321, 943, 1041, 1045, 1051, 1058, 1079, 1081, 1100, 1128, 1131, 1161, 1166, Soy Proteins–Isolates, for Food Use. See also: Isolates, for 1168, 1173, 1213 Industrial (Non-Food) Use. 1116, 1134, 1153, 1164, 1191, 1196, 1218 Soy Sauce Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and Analyses–Individual Companies. 15, 22, 106, 107, 108, 244, Soy Puddings, Custards, Parfaits, or Mousses (Usually made 321, 342, 919, 943, 948, 952, 953, 957, 958, 983, 1003, 1045, from Soymilk or Tofu). See also Soy Yogurt–Not Fermented. 1058, 1067, 1079, 1085, 1119, 1127, 1128, 1161, 1166, 1167, 1183 1171, 1173, 1174, 1178, 1213, 1259

Soy Sauce (Including Shoyu and Worcestershire Sauce)– Soy Sauce and Shoyu–Etymology of Th ese Terms and Th eir Imports, Exports, International Trade. 17, 20, 21, 24, 33, 46, Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 342, 919, 960, 60, 99, 100, 101, 103, 105, 106, 107, 108, 153, 154, 156, 159, 1032, 1137 182, 187, 188, 210, 211, 214, 238, 275, 304, 321, 342, 473, 506, 620, 768, 769, 773, 775, 778, 780, 781, 782, 784, 796, 801, 810, Soy Sauce in Second Generation Products, Documents 827, 829, 830, 833, 835, 839, 859, 891, 919, 923, 939, 940, 941, About. 943, 1036, 1100 942, 952, 953, 960, 971, 1002, 1021, 1030, 1041, 1051, 1056, 1072, 1078, 1083, 1115, 1119, 1128, 1131, 1137, 1142, 1182 Soy Sauce, HVP Type (Non-Fermented or Semi-Fermented, Made with Acid-Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein; an Amino Soy Sauce (Including Shoyu). See Also Tamari, Teriyaki Acid Seasoning Solution Rich in Glutamic Acid). Also Called Sauce, and Traditional Worcestershire Sauce. 2, 3, 5, 7, 13, Pejoratively Chemical Soy Sauce. 757, 786, 791, 928, 944, 954, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 37, 39, 45, 1032, 1073, 1082, 1137, 1189 46, 47, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 69, 74, 77, 78, 82, 99, 100, 101, 103, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 110, 111, 120, 128, 129, 152, 153, 154, Soy Sauce, Used as an Ingredient in Commercial Products. 156, 157, 158, 159, 164, 171, 175, 181, 182, 183, 184, 186, 187, 909, 928, 970, 973, 974, 1020, 1062, 1063, 1066, 1070, 1078, 188, 200, 210, 211, 213, 214, 224, 238, 240, 244, 245, 248, 249, 1110, 1122, 1133, 1214

Soy Sprouts (Sprouted or Germinated Soybeans) for Food Soybean Meal / Cake, Fiber (as from Okara), or Shoyu Use. 840 Presscake as a Fertilizer or Manure for the Soil–Industrial Uses. 244 Soy Yogurt–Not Fermented. Typically Made with Tofu (Includes varieties “with active cultures” that are not actually Soybean Production–General, and Amount Produced. 343 cultured / fermented). 1109, 1111 Soybean Seeds–Black in Color. Food Use is Not Mentioned. Soy fi ber. See Fiber 1175

Soy ice cream companies (USA). See Tofutti Brands, Inc. Soybean Seeds–Black in Color. Used as Food (Including in (Cranford, New Jersey) Soy Nuggets and Inyu), Beverage, Feed, or Medicine, or Th eir Nutritional Value. 1002, 1158 Soy protein companies (USA). See Protein Technologies International (PTI) Soybean Seeds–Green in Color. Food Use is Not Mentioned. Early Named Varieties Include Aoda, Columbia, Giant Green, Soy sauce companies (Asia & USA). See San Jirushi Corp., Guelph or Medium Green, Medium Early Green, Medium and San-J International (Kuwana, Japan; and Richmond, Green, Samarow, Sonoma, and Tashing. 50 Virginia), Yamasa Corporation (Choshi, Japan; and Salem, Oregon) Soybean Seeds–Yellow in Color. Including Yellowish White, Cream Colored, and Pale (Pallida). Especially Early Records. Soy sauce companies (international). See Higeta (Choshi, See also: Soybean Seeds–White. 50 Japan), Kikkoman Corporation (Tokyo, Walworth, Wisconsin; and Worldwide) Soybean Varieties USA–Prize–Large-Seeded and / or Vegetable-Type. 986 Soy sauce companies or brands (USA). See Chun King, La Choy, Oriental Show-You Co Soybean Varieties USA–Vinton–Large-Seeded and / or Vegetable-Type. 1242 Soy sauce companies. See Showa Shoyu Brewing Co. (Glendale, Arizona) Soybean crushers (Asia). See Ajinomoto Co. Inc. (Tokyo, Japan), Nisshin Oil Mills, Ltd. (Tokyo, Japan), Showa Sangyo Soy sauce residue or dregs. See Fiber–Residue or Dregs from Co. Ltd. (Tokyo, Japan) Making Soy Sauce Soybean crushers (USA). See Archer Daniels Midland Co. Soy sauce used in Worcestershire sauce. See Worcestershire (ADM) (Decatur, Illinois), Ralston Purina Co. (St. Louis, Sauce–With Soy Sauce Used as an Ingredient Missouri)

Soy sauce. See Hoisin / Haisien Sauce, Tamari, Teriyaki Soybean crushing–solvents. See Solvents Sauce and Teriyaki (Soy Sauce is the Main Sauce Ingredient), Worcestershire Sauce Soybean koji. See Koji, Soybean

SoyaWorld Inc. See ProSoya Soybean oil. See Soy Oil

Soyatech (Publisher of Soya Bluebook and Soya Newsletter, Soybean paste. See Miso Bar Harbor, Maine. Note: In March 1980 Peter Golbitz and Sharyn Kingma started Island Tofu Works, a tofu Soybean production–Farm equipment. See Machinery manufacturing company, in Bar Harbor, Maine). 1190 (Agricultural), Implements, Equipment, and Mechanization

Soybean–origin and domestication. See Origin, Soybean production, organic. See Organic Soybean Domestication, and Dissemination of the Soybean (General) Production

Soybean Meal (SBM) (Defatted). Formerly Called Bean Cake, Soybean production. See Cultural Practices, Organically Beancake, Soybean Cake, Oilmeal, or Presscake. 184, 244, Grown Soybeans, Prices of Soybeans, Soybean Products, and 251, 957, 1073, 1131 Soybean Seeds, Yield Statistics, Soybean

Soybeans, black. See Whole Dry Soybeans–Black Seeded Soymilk, Soy Drinks / Beverages, Soy-Based Infant Formulas, and Nogs (Liquid, Non-Fermented). Note–For Soymilk Soybeans, whole dry (used unprocessed as food). See Whole Products See Tofu, Yuba, Shakes, Soy Ice Cream, Soy Yogurt, Dry Soybeans and Soy Cheese or Cheese Alternatives. 697, 698, 994, 999, 1018, 1022, 1024, 1037, 1049, 1050, 1065, 1071, 1088, 1102, Soyfood products, commercial. See Commercial Soy 1103, 1105, 1121, 1137, 1140, 1147, 1150, 1157, 1159, 1160, Products–New Products 1234, 1242, 1250

Soyfoods (General Food Uses of Soybeans). 615 Soymilk, Spray-Dried or Powdered, Used as an Ingredient in Non-Beverage Commercial Products Such as Ice Creams, Soyfoods Association of North America (SANA). Founded 29 Yogurts, Cheeses, Desserts, or Entrees. 1042 June 1978. 1141, 1146, 1190 Soymilk, Spray-Dried or Powdered. 1187 Soyfoods Center. See Soyinfo Center (Lafayette, California) Soynuts (Oil Roasted or Dry Roasted / Toasted), Incl. Soyfoods Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and Irimame Used at Setsubun (Lunar New Year) in Japan and Analyses–By Geographical Region. Includes per capita Parched Soybeans. 185 consumption of soybeans. 1084 Sprouts. See Soy Sprouts Soyfoods Movement in North America (USA & Canada, General). 1099 Standards for soyfoods. See Individual foods, e.g., Tofu Standards Soyfoods companies (Europe). See Lima N.V. / Lima Foods (Sint-Martens-Latem, Belgium; and Mezin, France) Statistics on soybean production, area and stocks. See individual geographic regions (such as Asia, Europe, Latin Soyfoods companies (USA). See GeniSoy Products Co. America, United States, etc.) and nations within each region (Fairfi eld, California), Lightlife Foods, Inc. (Turners Falls, Massachusetts), SunRich Food Group (Hope, Minnesota), Statistics on soybean yields. See Yield Statistics, Soybean White Wave, Inc. (Boulder, Colorado) Statistics. See Industry and Market Analyses and Statistics, Soyfoods movement. See Soyatech (Bar Harbor, Maine), the specifi c product concerned, e.g. Tofu Industry and Soyfoods Association of North America (SANA) Market Statistics

Soyinfo Center (Lafayette, California). Named Soyfoods Stow Mills, Inc. Including Llama Toucan & Crow Center until 1 Jan. 2007. 993, 994, 998, 999, 1000, 1014, 1025, (Brattleboro, Vermont), and Lama Trading Co. 1057 1032, 1067, 1090, 1168, 1190, 1201 Sufu. See Tofu, Fermented Soymilk Companies (Asia)–Kibun, Marusan-Ai, Mitsubishi, Meiji, and Saniku Shokuhin in Japan. 1071, 1103, 1137, 1159, Sukiyaki–Famous Japanese Recipe and Dish. Its Basic 1160 Ingredients Include Tofu (Usually Grilled) and Soy Sauce. 757, 758, 832, 868, 875, 908, 940, 1062, 1082, 1114, 1135, Soymilk Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and 1166, 1223 Analyses–Larger Companies. 1103, 1147 SunOpta, Inc. (Toronto, Ontario, Canada). Formerly SunRich Soymilk companies (Canada). See ProSoya Food Group (Hope, Minnesota). Formerly Minnesota Waxy Corn Growers Export Inc., Minnesota Edamame, Jameson- Soymilk companies (USA). See American Soy Products Williams Co. Acquired by Stake Technology Ltd. (Norval, (Saline, Michigan), Pacifi c Foods of Oregon, Inc. (Tualatin, Ontario, Canada) in July 1999, Stake changes its name to Oregon), Vitasoy SunOpta on 31 Oct. 2003. 1162, 1190

Soymilk curds. See Curds Made from Soymilk SunRich Food Group (Hope, Minnesota). See SunOpta, Inc.

Soymilk shakes. See Shakes Sunfl ower Seeds and Sunfl owers (Helianthus annuus)–

Including Sunfl owerseed Oil, Cake, and Meal. Once called 279, 282, 283, 286, 288, 290, 293, 295, 300, 301, 307, 308, 309, the Heliotrope, Heliotropion, and Heliotropium. 1070 311, 312, 313, 314, 315, 316, 317, 318, 319, 323, 324, 326, 330, 334, 335, 338, 339, 340, 341, 344, 345, 346, 347, 348, 349, 350, Tadano, John. See Showa Shoyu Brewing Co. (Glendale, 351, 352, 353, 354, 355, 356, 357, 358, 359, 360, 361, 362, 363, Arizona). Founded by John Tadano 364, 365, 366, 367, 368, 370, 371, 372, 373, 374, 375, 376, 377, 378, 381, 382, 385, 386, 387, 388, 389, 390, 391, 392, 393, 394, Taiwan. See Asia, East–Taiwan 395, 397, 398, 399, 400, 401, 402, 403, 404, 405, 406, 407, 408, 409, 410, 411, 412, 413, 414, 415, 417, 418, 422, 423, 424, 425, Tamari, Including Real Tamari (Soy Sauce Which Contains 426, 427, 428, 429, 430, 431, 432, 434, 435, 436, 438, 440, 441, Little or No Wheat) or the Macrobiotic Word Tamari 442, 445, 446, 447, 448, 449, 450, 451, 453, 455, 456, 457, 458, Meaning Traditional Shoyu. 244, 891, 923, 987, 1021, 1028, 459, 460, 461, 462, 465, 466, 467, 468, 469, 470, 471, 472, 474, 1030, 1032, 1040, 1041, 1051, 1052, 1053, 1054, 1057, 1070, 475, 476, 478, 479, 480, 481, 482, 483, 484, 485, 486, 487, 488, 1072, 1078, 1094, 1099, 1100, 1115, 1129, 1133, 1136, 1137, 490, 492, 493, 494, 496, 497, 498, 499, 501, 502, 504, 507, 508, 1152, 1157, 1168, 1178, 1180, 1184, 1185 509, 510, 511, 512, 513, 514, 515, 516, 517, 519, 520, 522, 523, 524, 525, 526, 527, 528, 529, 530, 532, 533, 534, 535, 537, 538, Tamari, Tamari Shoyu, and Tamari Soy Sauce–Etymology 539, 541, 542, 544, 545, 546, 547, 548, 549, 550, 553, 556, 558, of Th ese Terms and Th eir Cognates / Relatives in Various 559, 560, 561, 562, 563, 564, 565, 567, 568, 569, 572, 573, 574, Languages. 1028, 1030 575, 576, 577, 578, 579, 580, 581, 582, 583, 584, 585, 586, 587, 588, 590, 591, 592, 593, 594, 595, 596, 597, 598, 599, 600, 601, Tariff s, duties, embargoes. See Trade Policies (International) 602, 604, 606, 607, 608, 609, 610, 611, 612, 613, 614, 616, 617, Concerning Soybeans, Soy Products, or Soyfoods–Tariff s, 618, 619, 621, 622, 623, 624, 625, 626, 627, 628, 629, 631, 632, Duties, Embargoes, Moratoriums, and Other Trade Barriers 633, 634, 641, 643, 645, 651, 652, 653, 655, 656, 657, 660, 661, or Subsidies 662, 663, 664, 665, 666, 667, 668, 671, 672, 673, 674, 675, 676, 677, 678, 679, 680, 681, 682, 683, 684, 685, 686, 687, 689, 690, Tempeh (Spelled Témpé in Malay-Indonesian). 1061, 1091 691, 693, 695, 698, 699, 701, 702, 703, 704, 705, 706, 707, 709, 710, 711, 713, 714, 717, 719, 724, 725, 726, 728, 729, 730, 731, Tempeh companies. See Turtle Island Foods, Inc. (Hood 733, 734, 737, 738, 739, 740, 742, 743, 744, 745, 746, 748, 749, River, Oregon. Maker of Tofurky and Tempeh) 750, 753, 754, 756, 764, 765, 766, 767, 770, 774, 777, 779, 783, 785, 787, 792, 793, 794, 795, 797, 798, 799, 802, 803, 804, 805, Tempehworks. See Lightlife Foods, Inc. 806, 807, 808, 809, 812, 813, 815, 816, 817, 819, 820, 821, 822, 824, 832, 836, 837, 838, 841, 842, 843, 845, 846, 847, 848, 849, Teriyaki Sauce and Teriyaki (Soy Sauce is the Main Sauce 850, 851, 852, 853, 854, 855, 857, 858, 860, 863, 864, 865, 867, Ingredient). 889, 908, 909, 910, 919, 928, 943, 949, 952, 959, 868, 869, 870, 881, 884, 885, 886, 890, 892, 893, 894, 895, 896, 970, 973, 974, 983, 1001, 1036, 1041, 1051, 1058, 1062, 1066, 898, 900, 901, 902, 903, 904, 905, 906, 914, 915, 925, 927, 935, 1070, 1078, 1082, 1100, 1122, 1127, 1130, 1133, 1259 936, 938, 945, 946, 961, 963, 965, 967, 968, 975, 977, 978, 979, 980, 981, 984, 985, 990, 1005, 1006, 1007, 1008, 1009, 1010, Timeline. See Chronology / Timeline 1011, 1012, 1013, 1015, 1016, 1017, 1023, 1024, 1034, 1035, 1042, 1044, 1059, 1060, 1075, 1084, 1087, 1089, 1097, 1101, Tofu (Also Called Soybean Curd or Bean Curd until about 1112, 1114, 1123, 1126, 1135, 1137, 1139, 1141, 1146, 1147, 1975-1985). See also Tofu–Fermented, Soy Ice Creams, Soy 1148, 1149, 1156, 1157, 1163, 1170, 1186, 1187, 1188, 1190, Yogurts, and Cheesecake, Which Oft en Use Tofu as a Major 1192, 1194, 1197, 1199, 1224, 1225, 1228, 1235, 1239, 1241, Ingredient. 4, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 18, 19, 23, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 1242, 1243, 1250, 1257, 1258 36, 38, 40, 41, 42, 44, 45, 49, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 61, 65, 66, 67, 68, 70, 71, 72, 73, 75, 76, 79, 80, 81, 83, 84, 85, 86, Tofu (all kinds)–Imports, Exports, International Trade. 1101 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 130, Tofu–Etymology of Th is Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in 131, 132, 133, 134, 135, 136, 137, 138, 139, 140, 141, 142, 143, Various Languages. 1137 144, 145, 146, 147, 148, 149, 150, 151, 160, 161, 162, 163, 165, 166, 167, 168, 169, 170, 172, 173, 174, 176, 177, 178, 179, 180, Tofu–Marketing of. 1125 189, 190, 191, 192, 193, 194, 195, 196, 197, 199, 201, 202, 203, 205, 206, 207, 208, 209, 215, 216, 217, 218, 219, 220, 221, 222, Tofu Equipment. 643, 683, 993, 994, 999, 1000, 1022, 1024 223, 225, 226, 227, 228, 229, 230, 231, 232, 233, 234, 235, 236, 237, 239, 240, 241, 242, 243, 245, 246, 250, 251, 253, 254, 255, Tofu Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and Analyses–By 256, 257, 261, 262, 265, 267, 270, 271, 272, 273, 276, 277, 278, Geographical Region. 1141, 1257

Tofu, Silken (Kinugoshi). 929, 950, 961, 982, 995, 1019, 1033, Tofu Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and Analyses– 1039, 1042, 1059, 1087, 1096, 1098, 1101, 1109, 1114, 1116, Larger Companies. 472, 599, 713, 733, 753, 854, 894, 984, 1117, 1125, 1134, 1135, 1137, 1138, 1141, 1146, 1153, 1163, 1084, 1101, 1135, 1138, 1147, 1192 1164, 1183, 1191, 1196, 1209, 1218, 1226, 1227, 1231, 1236

Tofu Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and Analyses– Tofu, Used as an Ingredient in Second Generation Smaller Companies. 6, 748, 756, 802, 881, 892, 925, 990, 1087 Commercial Products Such as Dressings, Entrees, Ice Creams, etc. 472, 599, 1017, 1046, 1047, 1093, 1109, 1226, Tofu Production–How to Make Tofu on a Commercial Scale. 1227 695 Tofutti Brands, Inc. (Cranford, New Jersey)–Soy Ice Cream Tofu Shop (Th e) (Telluride, Colorado, and Arcata, California) Company. Mintz’s Buff et Until Jan. 1982. 1084, 1224 and Tofu Shop Specialty Foods Inc. 1190 Tomsun Foods, Inc. (Greenfi eld, Massachusetts; Port Tofu Standards or Standard of Identity. 1141 Washington, New York. Named New England Soy Dairy from 1978-1983). 1111 Tofu companies (USA). See Azumaya, Inc. (San Francisco, California), House Foods America Corporation (Los Toxins and Toxicity in Foods and Feeds–Microorganisms, Angeles, California), Island Spring, Inc. (Vashon, Especially Bacteria (Such as Escherichia coli, Salmonella, Washington), Kyoto Food Corp. USA (Terre Haute, Indiana), Clostridium botulinum), that Cause Food Poisoning. Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc., and Morinaga Nyûgyô See also: Afl atoxins (produced by molds) and Bongkrek (Torrance, California, and Tokyo, Japan), Nasoya Foods, Poisoning (produced in coconut by bacteria). 1141 Inc. (Leominster, Massachusetts). Subsidiary of Vitasoy, Northern Soy, Inc. (Rochester, New York), Ota Tofu Co. Trade (International–Imports, Exports) of Soybeans, Soy Oil, (Portland, Oregon. Founded in 1911), Pulmuone U.S.A., and / or Soybean Meal. See also Trade–Tariff s and Duties. Inc. (South Gate, California), Quong Hop & Co. (South San 247, 619, 834, 1157 Francisco, California), Tofu Shop (Th e) (Telluride, Colorado, and Arcata, California) and Tofu Shop Specialty Foods Trade Policies (International) Concerning Soybeans, Inc., Tomsun Foods, Inc. (Greenfi eld, Massachusetts; Port Soy Products, or Soyfoods–Tariff s, Duties, Embargoes, Washington, New York Moratoriums, and Other Trade Barriers or Subsidies. 1155, 1173 Tofu curds. See Curds Made from Soymilk Trade of Soyfoods (Import and Export, not Including Soy Oil Tofu, Fermented (Also Called Doufu-ru, Toufu-ru, Furu, or Soybean Meal, but Including Lecithin and Margarine) or Fuyu, Tahuri, Tahuli, Tajure, Tao-hu-yi, or Sufu). See also Soyfoods Manufacturing Equipment. See also: Soy Sauce– Tofu-yo. 967 Imports, Exports. Miso–Imports, Exports. 14, 15, 22, 106, 107, 108, 159, 321, 342, 859, 872, 873, 891, 919, 923, 952, 953, Tofu, Fried (Especially Pouches, Puff s, Cutlets, or Burgers; 960, 971, 995, 1002, 1021, 1029, 1030, 1039, 1041, 1042, 1048, Agé or Aburagé, Atsu-agé or Nama-agé, Ganmodoki or 1050, 1051, 1056, 1071, 1072, 1078, 1083, 1096, 1097, 1098, Ganmo). 270, 287, 314, 376, 417, 430, 500, 505, 557, 599, 611, 1114, 1115, 1116, 1117, 1119, 1124, 1125, 1128, 1131, 1134, 726, 743, 749, 755, 756, 787, 795, 819, 856, 862, 922, 924, 927, 1137, 1142, 1145, 1159, 1163, 1182, 1234 930, 932, 933, 951, 961, 965, 967, 976, 988, 1017, 1055, 1059, 1060, 1074, 1092, 1106, 1120, 1135, 1149, 1214, 1255 Transportation of Soybeans or Soy Products to Market by Railroad / Railway / Rail within a Particular Country or Tofu, Frozen or Dried-Frozen, Used as an Ingredient in Region. See also Railroads / Railways and Special Trains Used Commercial Soyfood Products. 1154 to Promote Soybeans and Soybean Production. 1067

Tofu, Frozen, Dried-frozen, or Dried Whole (Not Powdered). Transportation of Soybeans or Soy Products to Market 213, 873, 1048 by Roads or Highways Using Trucks, Carts, etc. within a Particular Country or Region. 1176 Tofu, Grilled, Braised, Broiled, or Roasted (Yaki-dôfu in Japanese). A Japanese-Style Commercial Product. 599, 872, Transportation of Soybeans or Soy Products to Market by 921, 961, 1017, 1027, 1059, 1135 Water (Rivers, Lakes) Using Junks, Barges, etc. within a Particular Country or Region. 1259

251, 252, 253, 255, 256, 257, 258, 259, 260, 261, 262, 263, 265, Tree of Life (St. Augustine, Florida). Purchased in Dec. 1985 266, 267, 270, 271, 272, 273, 274, 275, 276, 277, 278, 279, 280, by Netherlands-based Royal Wessanen NV Co. 1099, 1131, 281, 282, 283, 286, 288, 290, 291, 292, 293, 294, 295, 296, 297, 1137, 1153, 1164, 1184 300, 301, 302, 303, 304, 305, 306, 307, 308, 309, 310, 311, 312, 313, 314, 316, 317, 318, 319, 320, 321, 329, 330, 331, 332, 333, Trucks or Carts used to transport soybeans. See 334, 335, 343, 346, 347, 348, 349, 350, 351, 352, 353, 354, 355, Transportation of Soybeans or Soy Products to Market by 356, 357, 358, 359, 360, 361, 362, 364, 365, 366, 367, 368, 369, Roads or Highways 370, 372, 373, 374, 375, 376, 377, 379, 380, 393, 394, 395, 396, 397, 415, 417, 418, 428, 429, 430, 431, 432, 433, 434, 436, 437, Turtle Island Foods, Inc. (Hood River, Oregon. Maker of 438, 439, 440, 442, 444, 445, 446, 447, 448, 452, 453, 454, 455, Tofurky and Tempeh). 1190 456, 457, 458, 459, 461, 462, 464, 465, 466, 467, 468, 469, 470, 471, 472, 473, 474, 475, 476, 477, 478, 479, 480, 490, 491, 492, Ultrafi ltration. See Membrane Technology Processes 493, 494, 495, 496, 497, 498, 499, 500, 501, 502, 503, 504, 505, 506, 507, 508, 509, 510, 511, 512, 513, 514, 516, 533, 536, 537, Umeboshi or ume-boshi (Japanese salt plums / pickled 538, 539, 540, 541, 553, 554, 555, 557, 599, 600, 606, 608, 609, plums), Plum Products, and the Japanese Plum Tree (Prunus 611, 612, 613, 614, 615, 616, 617, 618, 619, 620, 621, 622, 623, mumé) from whose fruit they are made. 1088, 1119, 1158 624, 625, 626, 627, 629, 630, 631, 632, 633, 634, 636, 637, 639, 642, 644, 646, 648, 649, 650, 659, 666, 670, 678, 679, 684, 685, Unfair Practices–Including Possible Deceptive / Misleading 686, 694, 695, 700, 704, 720, 735, 740, 742, 744, 745, 746, 749, Labeling, Advertising, etc. See also: Adulteration. 106, 1214 750, 752, 753, 755, 756, 764, 765, 766, 767, 768, 769, 770, 771, 772, 773, 774, 775, 776, 777, 778, 779, 780, 781, 782, 783, 784, United Kingdom. See Europe, Western–United Kingdom 785, 797, 798, 801, 806, 809, 810, 813, 814, 819, 821, 824, 826, 827, 828, 829, 830, 832, 833, 834, 835, 837, 838, 839, 844, 859, United Natural Foods, Inc. (UNFI, Auburn, Washington 870, 872, 873, 874, 875, 876, 877, 878, 879, 880, 891, 894, 895, state). Formed in 1995. Includes Mountain People’s 897, 907, 908, 910, 913, 918, 919, 921, 922, 929, 934, 935, 936, Warehouse (Nevada City, California), Cornucopia Natural 939, 940, 941, 942, 944, 945, 946, 948, 950, 951, 952, 953, 959, Foods (Connecticut) and Stow Mills (Vermont and New 963, 966, 969, 971, 972, 977, 979, 988, 989, 990, 992, 993, 996, Hampshire), Rainbow Natural Foods, Albert’s Organics, and 998, 1002, 1004, 1008, 1014, 1016, 1018, 1020, 1021, 1025, Hershey Imports Co. 1057 1029, 1032, 1033, 1034, 1037, 1038, 1039, 1042, 1043, 1050, 1055, 1056, 1058, 1059, 1060, 1062, 1063, 1064, 1066, 1067, United States–States–Alaska. 967 1068, 1072, 1075, 1077, 1079, 1081, 1082, 1083, 1084, 1085, 1086, 1087, 1090, 1095, 1096, 1097, 1098, 1102, 1106, 1107, United States–States–Arizona. 184, 641, 643, 644, 645, 651, 1108, 1109, 1111, 1113, 1114, 1116, 1117, 1119, 1120, 1121, 652, 658, 660, 661, 663, 667, 672, 673, 674, 680, 683, 687, 690, 1123, 1124, 1125, 1126, 1130, 1134, 1135, 1137, 1138, 1142, 696, 697, 698, 699, 701, 702, 703, 704, 706, 707, 711, 717, 718, 1143, 1144, 1145, 1146, 1147, 1149, 1150, 1153, 1155, 1159, 725, 726, 728, 729, 730, 731, 734, 736, 739, 741, 798, 1123, 1162, 1163, 1164, 1165, 1167, 1168, 1169, 1170, 1173, 1175, 1207, 1229, 1240, 1244, 1245, 1246, 1248, 1250, 1256 1179, 1181, 1182, 1183, 1186, 1187, 1188, 1190, 1191, 1192, 1193, 1194, 1195, 1198, 1199, 1200, 1201, 1202, 1203, 1204, United States–States–Arkansas. 647, 662, 668, 675, 676, 681, 1206, 1207, 1208, 1209, 1210, 1211, 1212, 1213, 1214, 1215, 682, 688, 692, 705, 714, 1123 1216, 1217, 1219, 1220, 1221, 1222, 1223, 1224, 1225, 1226, 1227, 1228, 1229, 1230, 1232, 1234, 1235, 1237, 1239, 1241, United States–States–California. 1, 4, 5, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 16, 1247, 1249, 1250, 1251, 1252, 1253, 1254, 1255, 1258, 1259 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36, 38, 39, 40, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, United States–States–Colorado. 97, 104, 106, 120, 138, 154, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 67, 68, 70, 71, 72, 73, 75, 76, 77, 79, 184, 189, 195, 213, 237, 240, 245, 344, 716, 727, 736, 737, 738, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 88, 89, 94, 95, 96, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102, 797, 807, 811, 812, 831, 892, 961, 985, 1080, 1123, 1159, 1207, 103, 104, 105, 106, 109, 112, 113, 114, 115, 120, 122, 124, 125, 1211, 1217, 1229, 1245 126, 127, 130, 131, 133, 134, 135, 136, 137, 140, 142, 143, 144, 145, 146, 147, 148, 149, 150, 151, 152, 153, 154, 155, 156, 157, United States–States–District of Columbia (Washington, 160, 161, 163, 167, 168, 169, 172, 173, 174, 176, 177, 178, 180, DC). 240, 492 181, 182, 183, 184, 185, 186, 187, 188, 190, 191, 194, 197, 198, 199, 201, 202, 204, 205, 206, 207, 208, 209, 210, 211, 212, 213, United States–States–Florida. 184, 240, 797, 1005, 1184 214, 216, 217, 218, 219, 220, 221, 222, 223, 225, 226, 227, 228, 229, 230, 231, 233, 234, 235, 239, 240, 241, 244, 245, 247, 250, United States–States–Georgia. 970

United States–States–Introduction of Soybeans to. Th is United States–States–Hawaii. 2, 3, 7, 14, 15, 22, 35, 37, 50, 69, document contains the earliest date seen for the cultivation of 78, 101, 104, 106, 107, 108, 110, 111, 128, 129, 158, 164, 171, soybeans in a certain U.S. state. 1108 175, 200, 224, 248, 249, 268, 269, 270, 281, 284, 285, 298, 299, 321, 322, 323, 324, 325, 326, 327, 336, 337, 338, 339, 340, 341, United States–States–Iowa. 1084, 1108, 1145, 1153, 1164, 379, 381, 382, 383, 384, 385, 386, 387, 388, 389, 390, 391, 398, 1190 399, 400, 401, 402, 403, 404, 405, 406, 407, 408, 409, 410, 411, 412, 413, 414, 416, 420, 421, 422, 423, 424, 425, 426, 427, 481, United States–States–Maine. 1141 482, 483, 484, 485, 486, 487, 488, 489, 517, 518, 519, 520, 521, 522, 523, 524, 525, 526, 527, 528, 529, 530, 531, 532, 551, 552, United States–States–Maryland. 1, 240 556, 558, 559, 560, 561, 562, 563, 564, 565, 566, 567, 568, 569, 570, 571, 572, 573, 574, 575, 576, 577, 578, 579, 580, 581, 582, United States–States–Massachusetts. 240, 920, 923, 986, 1084, 583, 584, 585, 586, 587, 588, 589, 590, 591, 592, 593, 594, 595, 1085, 1088, 1099, 1108, 1217 596, 597, 598, 601, 602, 603, 604, 605, 610, 635, 653, 654, 655, 656, 657, 708, 748, 754, 757, 758, 759, 760, 761, 762, 763, 786, United States–States–Michigan. 342, 1103, 1129, 1135, 1137, 788, 789, 790, 791, 792, 793, 794, 815, 816, 817, 818, 820, 822, 1157, 1160, 1250 823, 842, 843, 845, 846, 847, 848, 849, 850, 851, 852, 853, 854, 855, 857, 858, 859, 861, 862, 863, 864, 865, 866, 867, 882, 883, United States–States–Minnesota. 737, 738, 739, 740, 986, 884, 885, 886, 890, 893, 896, 898, 899, 900, 901, 902, 903, 904, 1147, 1162, 1222 905, 906, 909, 914, 916, 924, 925, 926, 927, 928, 930, 931, 932, 933, 937, 940, 942, 953, 959, 962, 964, 965, 966, 973, 974, 976, United States–States–Missouri. 106, 107, 108 992, 1006, 1007, 1013, 1015, 1017, 1035, 1049, 1059, 1061, 1074, 1084, 1085, 1089, 1092, 1093, 1109, 1130, 1137, 1139, United States–States–Montana. 184, 213, 240, 712, 715, 967 1140, 1192, 1198, 1201, 1202, 1229, 1241, 1259 United States–States–Nebraska. 184, 435, 1190 United States–States–Idaho. 120, 184, 192, 213, 245, 638, 640, 669, 671, 677, 689, 691, 693, 712, 713, 721, 732, 733, 967, United States–States–Nevada. 58, 61, 90, 104, 184, 450 1123, 1156, 1197 United States–States–New Jersey. 240, 992, 1009, 1029, 1030, United States–States–Illinois. 1, 106, 107, 108, 328, 463, 738, 1031, 1048, 1085, 1198 744, 765, 787, 795, 796, 797, 798, 799, 833, 869, 870, 881, 910, 940, 947, 953, 956, 959, 970, 975, 991, 1023, 1065, 1084, 1085, United States–States–New Mexico. 184, 245, 720, 1229, 1256 1091, 1108, 1229, 1259 United States–States–New York. 6, 87, 104, 120, 123, 184, United States–States–Indiana. 342, 800, 1148 203, 213, 232, 245, 321, 515, 797, 844, 860, 868, 871, 875, 887, 888, 908, 910, 911, 912, 953, 959, 960, 968, 978, 980, 981, 982, United States–States–Introduction of Soy Products to. 1000, 1010, 1027, 1046, 1047, 1084, 1105, 1108, 1198, 1229, Earliest document seen concerning soybean products in 1259 a certain U.S. state. Soybeans as such have not yet been reported in this state. 2 United States–States–North Carolina. 1131

United States–States–Introduction of Soy Products to. United States–States–Ohio. 802, 856, 1084, 1108, 1190 Th is document contains the earliest date seen for soybean products in a certain U.S. state. Soybeans as such had not yet United States–States–Oregon. 74, 92, 104, 106, 116, 120, 141, been reported by that date in this state. 2, 859 184, 213, 242, 243, 245, 246, 264, 287, 289, 315, 449, 534, 638, 669, 743, 803, 805, 841, 915, 967, 1084, 1112, 1135, 1147, United States–States–Introduction of Soybeans to. Earliest 1156, 1166, 1167, 1169, 1171, 1172, 1173, 1174, 1176, 1177, document seen concerning soybeans in a certain U.S. state. 1191, 1196, 1197, 1207, 1217, 1218, 1230, 1231, 1236, 1238, 41, 58, 74 1241, 1242, 1243

United States–States–Introduction of Soybeans to. Th is United States–States–Pennsylvania. 1084 document contains the earliest date seen for soybeans in a certain U.S. state. 41, 58, 74, 1108 United States–States–South Carolina. 1211

United States–States–Tennessee. 1250 254, 255, 256, 257, 258, 259, 260, 261, 262, 263, 264, 265, 266, 267, 268, 269, 270, 271, 272, 273, 274, 275, 276, 277, 278, 279, United States–States–Texas. 184, 1108, 1207 280, 281, 282, 283, 284, 285, 286, 287, 288, 289, 290, 291, 292, 293, 294, 295, 296, 297, 298, 299, 300, 301, 302, 303, 304, 305, United States–States–Utah. 41, 86, 104, 120, 139, 170, 179, 306, 307, 308, 309, 310, 311, 312, 313, 314, 315, 316, 317, 318, 184, 213, 215, 236, 238, 245, 247, 363, 371, 378, 441, 451, 319, 320, 321, 322, 323, 324, 325, 326, 327, 328, 329, 330, 331, 542, 628, 640, 664, 665, 689, 691, 709, 715, 724, 747, 825, 840, 332, 333, 334, 335, 336, 337, 338, 339, 340, 341, 342, 343, 344, 1011, 1123, 1135 345, 346, 347, 348, 349, 350, 351, 352, 353, 354, 355, 356, 357, 358, 359, 360, 361, 362, 363, 364, 365, 366, 367, 368, 369, 370, United States–States–Virginia. 1026, 1028, 1040, 1041, 1051, 371, 372, 373, 374, 375, 376, 377, 378, 379, 380, 381, 382, 383, 1052, 1053, 1054, 1070, 1071, 1078, 1094, 1100, 1104, 1110, 384, 385, 386, 387, 388, 389, 390, 391, 393, 394, 395, 396, 397, 1115, 1129, 1132, 1133, 1137, 1151, 1152, 1154, 1178, 1180, 398, 399, 400, 401, 402, 403, 404, 405, 406, 407, 408, 409, 410, 1185, 1238 411, 412, 413, 414, 415, 416, 417, 418, 420, 421, 422, 423, 424, 425, 426, 427, 428, 429, 430, 431, 432, 433, 434, 435, 436, 437, United States–States–Washington state. 28, 29, 66, 91, 93, 438, 439, 440, 441, 442, 443, 444, 445, 446, 447, 448, 449, 450, 104, 106, 107, 108, 117, 118, 120, 121, 132, 159, 162, 165, 166, 451, 452, 453, 454, 455, 456, 457, 458, 459, 460, 461, 462, 463, 184, 193, 196, 213, 245, 254, 290, 301, 317, 321, 330, 393, 443, 464, 465, 466, 467, 468, 469, 470, 471, 472, 473, 474, 475, 476, 460, 535, 537, 543, 547, 548, 607, 804, 808, 836, 938, 967, 984, 477, 478, 479, 480, 481, 482, 483, 484, 485, 486, 487, 488, 489, 1012, 1084, 1085, 1135, 1207, 1217, 1241, 1252 490, 491, 492, 493, 494, 495, 496, 497, 498, 499, 500, 501, 502, 503, 504, 505, 506, 507, 508, 509, 510, 511, 512, 513, 514, 515, United States–States–Wisconsin. 947, 948, 949, 952, 953, 955, 516, 517, 518, 519, 520, 521, 522, 523, 524, 525, 526, 527, 528, 956, 957, 958, 959, 970, 983, 987, 997, 1001, 1003, 1020, 1036, 529, 530, 531, 532, 533, 534, 535, 536, 537, 538, 539, 540, 541, 1045, 1067, 1073, 1076, 1082, 1119, 1122, 1127, 1137, 1161, 542, 543, 547, 548, 551, 552, 553, 554, 555, 556, 557, 558, 559, 1166, 1173, 1189, 1193, 1205, 1206, 1213, 1233, 1259 560, 561, 562, 563, 564, 565, 566, 567, 568, 569, 570, 571, 572, 573, 574, 575, 576, 577, 578, 579, 580, 581, 582, 583, 584, 585, United States–States–Wyoming. 120, 184, 345, 710, 712, 719, 586, 587, 588, 589, 590, 591, 592, 593, 594, 595, 596, 597, 598, 722, 723, 727, 738, 967, 1123 599, 600, 601, 602, 603, 604, 605, 606, 607, 608, 609, 610, 611, 612, 613, 614, 615, 616, 617, 618, 619, 620, 621, 622, 623, 624, United States Department of Agriculture (USDA; Including 625, 626, 627, 628, 629, 630, 631, 632, 633, 634, 635, 636, 637, Federal Grain Inspection Service [FGIS], and War Food 638, 639, 640, 641, 642, 643, 644, 645, 646, 647, 648, 649, 650, Administration [WFA]). See also: Agricultural Marketing 651, 652, 653, 654, 655, 656, 657, 658, 659, 660, 661, 662, 663, Service, Agricultural Research Service (ARS), Bureau of Plant 664, 665, 666, 667, 668, 669, 670, 671, 672, 673, 674, 675, 676, Industry, Economic Research Service, Food and Nutrition 677, 678, 679, 680, 681, 682, 683, 684, 685, 686, 687, 688, 689, Service, Foreign Agricultural Service, and Section of Foreign 690, 691, 692, 693, 694, 695, 696, 697, 698, 699, 700, 701, 702, Seed and Plant Introduction. 1108 703, 704, 705, 706, 707, 708, 709, 710, 711, 712, 713, 714, 715, 716, 717, 718, 719, 720, 721, 722, 723, 724, 725, 726, 727, 728, United States of America (USA). 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 729, 730, 731, 732, 733, 734, 735, 736, 737, 738, 739, 740, 741, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 742, 743, 744, 745, 746, 747, 748, 749, 750, 751, 752, 753, 754, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 755, 756, 757, 758, 759, 760, 761, 762, 763, 764, 765, 766, 767, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 768, 769, 770, 771, 772, 773, 774, 775, 776, 777, 778, 779, 780, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 781, 782, 783, 784, 785, 786, 787, 788, 789, 790, 791, 792, 793, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 794, 795, 796, 797, 798, 799, 800, 801, 802, 803, 804, 805, 806, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102, 103, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 807, 808, 809, 810, 811, 812, 813, 814, 815, 816, 817, 818, 820, 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 120, 121, 122, 123, 821, 822, 823, 824, 825, 826, 827, 828, 829, 830, 831, 832, 833, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132, 133, 134, 135, 136, 834, 835, 836, 837, 838, 839, 840, 841, 842, 843, 844, 845, 846, 137, 138, 139, 140, 141, 142, 143, 144, 145, 146, 147, 148, 149, 847, 848, 849, 850, 851, 852, 853, 854, 855, 856, 857, 858, 859, 150, 151, 152, 153, 154, 155, 156, 157, 158, 159, 160, 161, 162, 860, 861, 862, 863, 864, 865, 866, 867, 868, 869, 870, 871, 874, 163, 164, 165, 166, 167, 168, 169, 170, 171, 172, 173, 174, 175, 875, 876, 877, 878, 879, 880, 881, 882, 883, 884, 885, 886, 887, 176, 177, 178, 179, 180, 181, 182, 183, 184, 185, 186, 187, 188, 888, 889, 890, 892, 893, 894, 895, 896, 897, 898, 899, 900, 901, 189, 190, 191, 192, 193, 194, 195, 196, 197, 198, 199, 200, 201, 902, 903, 904, 905, 906, 907, 908, 909, 910, 913, 914, 915, 916, 202, 203, 204, 205, 206, 207, 208, 209, 210, 211, 212, 213, 214, 917, 918, 919, 921, 922, 924, 925, 926, 927, 928, 929, 930, 931, 215, 216, 217, 218, 219, 220, 221, 222, 223, 224, 225, 226, 227, 932, 933, 934, 935, 936, 937, 938, 943, 944, 945, 946, 947, 948, 228, 229, 230, 231, 232, 233, 234, 235, 236, 237, 238, 239, 240, 949, 950, 951, 952, 953, 954, 955, 956, 957, 958, 959, 960, 961, 241, 242, 243, 244, 245, 246, 247, 248, 249, 250, 251, 252, 253, 962, 963, 964, 965, 966, 967, 968, 969, 970, 973, 974, 975, 976,

977, 978, 979, 980, 981, 982, 983, 984, 985, 987, 988, 989, 990, 991, 992, 993, 994, 996, 997, 998, 1000, 1001, 1002, 1003, Vegetable-type soybeans. See Green Vegetable Soybeans– 1004, 1005, 1006, 1007, 1008, 1009, 1010, 1011, 1012, 1013, Vegetable-Type, Garden-Type, or Edible or Food-Grade 1014, 1015, 1016, 1017, 1018, 1020, 1023, 1025, 1026, 1027, Soybeans 1028, 1032, 1033, 1034, 1035, 1036, 1037, 1038, 1039, 1040, 1043, 1044, 1045, 1046, 1047, 1049, 1052, 1053, 1054, 1055, Vegetarian pioneers. See Jackson, James Caleb (1811-1881) 1056, 1057, 1058, 1059, 1060, 1061, 1062, 1063, 1064, 1065, 1066, 1067, 1068, 1069, 1070, 1074, 1075, 1076, 1077, 1079, Vegetarianism–Concerning a Diet and Lifestyle Free of Flesh 1080, 1081, 1082, 1083, 1084, 1085, 1087, 1088, 1089, 1090, Foods, But Which May Include Dairy Products or Eggs. See 1091, 1092, 1093, 1094, 1095, 1099, 1100, 1101, 1102, 1103, also: Veganism. 1242, 1250 1104, 1105, 1106, 1107, 1108, 1109, 1110, 1111, 1112, 1113, 1119, 1120, 1121, 1122, 1123, 1124, 1125, 1126, 1127, 1128, Vegetarianism–Seventh-day Adventist Work with. 1250 1129, 1130, 1131, 1132, 1133, 1135, 1137, 1138, 1139, 1140, 1141, 1142, 1143, 1144, 1145, 1146, 1147, 1148, 1149, 1150, Vestro Foods, Inc. See Westbrae Natural Foods 1151, 1152, 1153, 1154, 1155, 1156, 1157, 1158, 1159, 1160, 1161, 1162, 1164, 1165, 1166, 1167, 1168, 1169, 1170, 1171, Videotapes or References to Video Tapes. 1164, 1196, 1211 1172, 1173, 1174, 1175, 1176, 1177, 1178, 1179, 1180, 1181, 1182, 1183, 1184, 1185, 1186, 1187, 1188, 1189, 1190, 1191, Vietnamese Overseas, Especially Work with Soy. 895 1192, 1193, 1194, 1195, 1196, 1197, 1198, 1199, 1200, 1201, 1202, 1203, 1204, 1205, 1206, 1207, 1208, 1209, 1210, 1211, Vitasoy International Holdings Ltd. (Hong Kong Soya Bean 1212, 1213, 1214, 1215, 1216, 1217, 1218, 1219, 1220, 1221, Products Co. Ltd. before 24 Sept. 1990), and Vitasoy (USA) 1222, 1223, 1224, 1225, 1226, 1227, 1228, 1229, 1230, 1231, Inc., (Brisbane, California–south of San Francisco). Including 1232, 1233, 1234, 1235, 1236, 1237, 1238, 1239, 1240, 1241, Nasoya Foods (from Aug. 1990) and Azumaya Inc. (from 1242, 1243, 1244, 1245, 1246, 1247, 1248, 1249, 1251, 1252, May 1993). Founded by K.S. Lo (Lived 1910 to 1995), in 1253, 1254, 1255, 1256, 1257, 1259 Hong Kong. Started in March 1940. 1190

United States of America–Commercial Products Imported Wannamaker (John E.) (St. Matthews, South Carolina). 1211 from Abroad. 872, 873, 891, 911, 912, 920, 923, 971, 972, 986, 1021, 1029, 1030, 1031, 1041, 1042, 1048, 1050, 1051, 1071, War, Sino-Japanese. See Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895)– 1072, 1078, 1086, 1096, 1097, 1098, 1114, 1115, 1116, 1117, Soybeans and Soyfoods 1134, 1136, 1163 War, world. See World War I–Soybeans and Soyfoods, World United States of America–Soybean Production, Area and War II–Soybeans and Soyfoods Stocks–Statistics, Trends, and Analyses. 104, 154 Well (Th e), Pure & Simple, and New Age Distributing Co. United States of America, soyfoods movement in. See (San Jose, California). 1057 Soyfoods Movement in North America Westbrae Natural Foods, Inc. (Berkeley, California). Founded USA–Food uses of soybeans, early. See Historical– in Feb. 1971 by Bob Gerner. Later in Carson. Subsidiary Documents about Food Uses of Soybeans in the USA before of Vestro Foods, Inc. Acquired by the Hain Food Group of 1900 Uniondale, New York, 14 Oct. 1997. 971, 972, 1057, 1069, 1095, 1099, 1115, 1131, 1137, 1143, 1147, 1190 USA. See United States of America Wheat Gluten. 1154 USDA. See United States Department of Agriculture White Wave, Inc. (Boulder, Colorado). Including Soyfoods Varieties, soybean. See Soybean Varieties USA–Large-Seeded Unlimited. Owned by Dean Foods Co. since 8 May 2002. Vegetable-Type 1164

Variety development of soybeans. See Introduction of Whole Dry Soybean Flakes. See Microsoy Corp., Formerly Soybeans (as to a Nation, State, or Region, with P.I. Numbers Nichii Company for the USA) and Selection Whole Dry Soybeans (Used Unprocessed as Food). 619, 834, Vegetable soybeans. See Green Vegetable Soybeans 969

Whole Dry Soybeans for Food Uses–Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and Analyses–Individual Companies. 1145

Whole Soy Flakes (Flaked Soybeans), Grits, Granules, or Textured Products, Made from Whole Dry Soybeans (Not Defatted). See Also: Soy Flour: Whole or Full-fat. 1145

Worcestershire Sauce (Soy Sauce Was the Main Ingredient before the 1940s). Including Lea & Perrins. 940, 1119, 1259

Worcestershire Sauce–With Soy Sauce Used as an Ingredient. 1259

World War I–Soybeans and Soyfoods. Also known as the “First World War” and “Th e Great War”. 251, 1259

World War II–Soybeans and Soyfoods. Also Called the “Second World War”. 321, 636, 637, 638, 639, 640, 641, 642, 643, 644, 645, 646, 647, 648, 649, 650, 651, 652, 659, 660, 661, 662, 663, 664, 665, 666, 667, 668, 669, 670, 671, 672, 673, 674, 675, 676, 677, 678, 679, 680, 681, 682, 683, 684, 685, 686, 687, 688, 689, 690, 691, 692, 693, 694, 695, 696, 697, 698, 699, 700, 701, 702, 703, 704, 705, 706, 707, 709, 710, 711, 712, 713, 714, 715, 716, 717, 718, 719, 720, 721, 722, 723, 724, 725, 726, 727, 728, 729, 730, 731, 732, 733, 734, 735, 737, 738, 739, 740, 742, 744, 765, 797, 798, 870, 953, 966, 1059, 1099, 1123, 1135, 1156, 1198, 1229, 1239, 1245, 1246, 1256, 1259

World. 1088

Yamasa Corporation (Choshi, Japan; and Salem, Oregon). 104, 108, 244, 506, 814, 844, 939, 969, 1044, 1085, 1128, 1131, 1166, 1167, 1168, 1171, 1172, 1173, 1174, 1176, 1177, 1229, 1230, 1238

Yellow soybeans. See Soybean Seeds–Yellow

Yield Statistics, Soybean. 213

Yogurt, soy. See Soy Yogurt

Yuba (Th e Film Th at Forms Atop Soymilk When It Is Heated). In Chinese (Mandarin): Doufu Pi (“Tofu Skin”) or Doufu Yi (“Tofu Robes,” pinyin), Toufu P’i or Toufu I (Wade-Giles). English-Language Chinese Cookbooks and Restaurants: “Bean Curd Skin”. 213, 1137

Yuba–Etymology of Th is Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 1137

Yuba–Imports, Exports, International Trade. 213

Zea mays. See Corn / Maize