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A History (1851-2011) HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 1 HOW JAPANESE AND JAPANESE-AMERICANS BROUGHT SOYFOODS TO THE UNITED STATES AND THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS -- A HISTORY (1851-2011): EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK Compiled by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi 2011 Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 2 Copyright (c) 2011 by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews, without written permission from the publisher. Published by: Soyinfo Center P.O. Box 234 Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091 www.soyinfocenter.com [email protected] ISBN 978-1-928914-37-2 (How Japanese Brought Soyfoods to the United States -- A History) Printed 11 July 2011 Price: Available on the Web free of charge Search engine keywords: Japanese, Soyfoods and the United States History Early History of Tofu in the United States Japanese, Soybean Foods and the United States History Early History of Miso in the United States Japanese, Tofu and the United States History Early History of Soy Sauce in the United States Japanese, Miso and the United States History Early History of Shoyu in the United States Japanese, Shoyu and the United States History Early History of Natto in the United States] Japanese, Soy Sauce and the United States History Japanese, Natto and the United States History Early History of Tofu in the Hawaiian Islands Early History of Miso in the Hawaiian Islands Japanese-Americans, Soyfoods and the United States History Early History of Soy Sauce in the Hawaiian Islands Japanese-Americans, Soybean Foods and the United States Early History of Shoyu in the Hawaiian Islands History Early History of Natto in the Hawaiian Islands Japanese-Americans, Tofu and the United States History Japanese-Americans, Miso and the United States History Early History of Tofu in the USA Japanese-Americans, Shoyu and the United States History Early History of Miso in the USA Japanese-Americans, Soy Sauce and the United States Early History of Soy Sauce in the USA History Early History of Shoyu in the USA Japanese-Americans, Natto and the United States History Early History of Tofu in Hawaii Japanese, Soyfoods and the United States Timeline Early History of Miso in Hawaii Japanese, Soybean Foods and the United States Timeline Early History of Soy Sauce in Hawaii Japanese, Tofu and the United States Timeline Early History of Shoyu in Hawaiian Japanese, Miso and the United States Timeline Early History of Natto in Hawaii Japanese, Shoyu and the United States Timeline Early History of Japanese in the United States Japanese, Soy Sauce and the United States Timeline Early History of Japanese in Hawaii Japanese, Natto and the United States Timeline Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 3 Contents Page Dedication and Acknowledgments.................................................................................................................................. 4 Introduction and Brief Chronology, by William Shurtleff .......................................................................................... 5 About This Book ............................................................................................................................................................10 Abbreviations Used in This Book ................................................................................................................................ 11 How to Make the Best Use of This Digital Book - Search It! .................................................................................... 12 Graph (Full-Page): Population of Japanese Living in the United States (1868-1913) ........................................... 14 How Japanese and Japanese-Americans Brought Soyfoods: 1259 References in Chronological Order .............. 17 Contains 110 photographs and illustrations Subject/Geographical Index by Record Numbers ................................................................................................... 305 Last Page of Index ....................................................................................................................................................... 328 Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 4 DEDICATION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Irene Yen, Tony Jenkins, Sarah Chang, Laurie Wilmore, This book is dedicated to all the Japanese and Alice Whealey, Simon Beaven, Elinor McCoy, Patricia Japanese-American pioneers who brought soyfoods to McKelvey, Claire Wickens, Ron Perry, Walter Lin, Dana the United States and the Hawaiian Islands. Scott, Jeremy Longinotti, John Edelen, Alex Lerman, Lydia Lam, Gretchen Muller, Joyce Mao, Luna Oxenberg, Joelle Bouchard, Justine Lam, Joey Shurtleff, Justin Hildebrandt, Michelle Chun, Olga Kochan, Loren Clive, Marina Li, Part of the enjoyment of writing a book lies in meeting Rowyn McDonald, Casey Brodsky, Hannah Woodman, people from around the world who share a common interest, Elizabeth Hawkins, Molly Howland, Jacqueline Tao, Lynn and in learning from them what is often the knowledge Hsu. or skills acquired during a lifetime of devoted research or practice. We wish to give deepest thanks... Special thanks to Tom and Linda Wolfe of Berwyn Park, Maryland. Of the many libraries and librarians who have been of great help to our research over the years, several stand out: For outstanding help on this book about Japanese pioneers we thank: (1) For helping us to obtain and translate these rare University of California at Berkeley: John Creaser, Lois Japanese documents: Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff; Eiichi Ito, Dr. Farrell, Norma Kobzina, Ingrid Radkey. Ming Sun Poon, Dr. Jeffrey Wang, Kiyoyo Pipher, Hiromi Shimamoto (Asian Div., Library of Congress); Seizo Oka Northern Regional Library Facility (NRLF), Richmond, (Japanese Cultural & Community Center, History Archives); California: Martha Lucero, Jutta Wiemhoff, Scott Miller, Dave Conklin (the origin of this book); Matthew Roth (for Virginia Moon, Kay Loughman. Densho Archive documents). (2) For decades of friendship and cooperation: Mr. Shoan Yamauchi (Matsuda-Hinode); Stanford University: Molly Molloy, who has been of special Yuzaburo Mogi, Dr. Tamotsu Yokotsuka, Kenzaburo Mogi help on Slavic-language documents. IV, Danji Fukushima, Masa Miyashita, Kazuya Hayashi, Takeji Mizunuma (all of Kikkoman); Michio and Aveline National Agricultural Library: Susan Chapman, Kay Derr, Kushi, Herman and Cornellia Aihara (macrobiotic teachers), Carol Ditzler, John Forbes, Winnifred Gelenter, Henry Dr. Kunisuke Kuwahara; Seishiro Ikegami, Yasuo Kumoda, Gilbert, Kim Hicks, Ellen Knollman, Patricia Krug, Art Mio (Morinaga), Bill and Jack Mizono (Azumaya); Sarah Lee, Veronica Lefebvre, Julie Mangin, Ellen Mann, Noritoshi and Atsuko Kanai (Mutual Trading Co.); Tak Josephine McDowell, Wayne Olson, Mike Thompson, Kimura (Food Broker); Itaru “Terry” Tanaka (MicroSoy Tanner Wray. Corp.); Koji Okamoto (Yamasa); Eileen Ota (Ota Family Tofu); Takao Nihei (historian, Hawaii); Wataru Takai (Tofu Contra Costa County Central Library and Lafayette Library: & Soymilk Equipment); Teruo Shimizu (Miyako Oriental Carole Barksdale, Kristen Wick, Barbara Furgason, Sherry Foods); Mary Tadano, Michiko Tadano; Betty Takesuye, Cartmill, Linda Barbero. Barbara Peeters (Showa Shoyu Brewing Co.); Densho Digital Archive / Project; Minami Sato (natto maker, French translation: Martine Liguori of Lafayette, California, Sebastapol, California). for ongoing, generous, and outstanding help since the early 1980s. Finally our deepest thanks to Tony Cooper of San Ramon, California, who has kept our computers up and running since Japanese translation and maps: Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Sept. 1983. Without Tony, this series of books on the Web would not have been possible. Loma Linda University, Del E. Webb Memorial Library (Seventh-day Adventist): Janice Little, Trish Chapman. This book, no doubt and alas, has its share of errors. These, of course, are solely the responsibility of William Shurtleff. We would also like to thank our co-workers and friends at Soyinfo Center who, since 1984, have played a major role in This bibliography and sourcebook was written with the collecting the documents, building the library, and producing hope that someone will write a detailed and well-documented the SoyaScan database from which this book is printed: history of this subject. Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center HOW JAPANESE BROUGHT SOYFOODS 5 INTRODUCTION How Japanese and Japanese-Americans Brought period of awakening, expansion, and opening to the outside Soyfoods to the United States and the Hawaiian Islands world after 268 years of peaceful isolation during the Edo -– A History (Tokugawa) period. Almost all of the earliest known companies making 1868 – The Japanese population of the United States (not soyfoods in the United States were started by people of including Hawaii, which was annexed to the USA in 1898 Japanese ancestry - most of them in small communities in and became a state in Aug. 1959) is six – the earliest known California, the Hawaiian Islands, Oregon and Washington. statistic. How do we know this? Largely because of two remarkable 1879 – Saheiji Mogi, of Noda, Japan, registers Kikkoman, public directories published in San Francisco by the Nichi- his family’s pride and fl agship brand of shoyu (Japanese-style
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