Across the Top of the World
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EXPEDITION DOSSIER 19TH AUGUST – 2ND SEPTEMBER 2019 ACROSS THE TOP OF THE WORLD TO WRANGEL AND HERALD ISLANDS © J Ross TO WRANGEL AND ACROSS THE TOP OF THE WORLD HERALD ISLANDS This unique expedition crosses the Arctic Circle and includes the isolated and pristine Wrangel and Herald Islands and a significant section of the wild North Eastern Siberian coastline. It is a journey only made possible in recent years by the thawing in the politics of the region and the retreat of summer pack ice in the Chukchi Sea. The very small distance between Russia and the USA along this border area was known as the Ice Curtain, behind which then and now lies one of the last great undiscovered wilderness areas in the world. The voyage journeys through the narrow Bering Strait, which separates Russia from the United States of America, and then travels west along the Chukotka coastline before crossing the De Long Strait to Wrangel Island. There we will © G Riehle spend four to five days under the guidance of local rangers on the nature reserve. Untouched by glaciers during the last ice age, this island is a treasure trove of Arctic biodiversity and is perhaps best known for the multitude of Polar Bears that breed here. We hope to catch many glimpses of © G Riehle this beautiful animal. The island also boasts the world’s largest population of Pacific Walrus and lies near major feeding grounds for the Gray Whales that migrate thousands of kilometres north from their breeding grounds in Baja, Mexico. Reindeer, Musk Ox and Snow Geese can normally be seen further inland. A visit to massive bird cliffs on nearby Herald Island is also planned. The ‘mammoth steppe’ vegetation complex, a rich and diverse relic from the Pleistocene epoch nurtures over 400 plant species and never fails to astound © A Russ visitors with its sublime beauty. The number and type of endemic The human history of Wrangel recently, the establishment of this plant species, the diversity within Island is fascinating on its own. world class nature reserve. A host of plant communities, the presence Highlights include a 3,400 year similarly enthralling stories hail from of relatively recent mammoth tusks old Paleo Eskimo camp in Krassin several optional landings along the and skulls, a range of terrain types Bay, controversy over discovery northern coasts of Chukotka. Our and geological formations in the and ownership of the island, the expert expedition team will take you small geographical space are amazing story of the survivors of the on guided walks, Zodiac cruises and all visible evidence of Wrangel’s Karluk, Ada Blackjack the heroine provide lectures to help you better rich natural history and its unique of the island, the Soviet occupation understand and appreciate this evolutionary status within the Arctic. and militarisation and more unique High Arctic landscape. 2 http://www.carolegobeil.ca/upcoming-expeditions/ [email protected] 1 800 298 6607 x 204 TO WRANGEL AND ACROSS THE TOP OF THE WORLD HERALD ISLANDS ITINERARY opportunity to explore Anadyr, the administrative centre of the NOTE: You can join this expedition Chukotka region, before getting either in Anadyr or in Nome, Alaska. to know your fellow voyagers and Those starting in Nome will fly by a crew on board the Spirit of Enderby. Heritage Expeditions charter flight If flights have been on time we to Anadyr and will join the ship and plan to depart Anadyr this evening. the expedition members who have As we depart you are invited to travelled direct to Anadyr. join the captain, officers and the expedition team on the bridge. The Day 0: Nome Anadyr estuary is renowned for its © L Whitehouse Those departing from Nome, Beluga Whales. Alaska, should arrive in Nome Island (Bird Island) where a large before midday and preferably the Day 2: Anadyrskiy Bay number of seabirds nest. previous night. As we sail across Anadyrskiy Bay towards the Bering Strait there On nearby Arakamchechen Island On arrival, you should check in with will be introductory lectures, an there is a prominent walrus haul out; Bering Air at the Nome Airport who introduction to the staff and ship if the animals are present we will will have details of our charter flight. and a series of compulsory briefings land and walk across the tundra to During this flight you will cross the and drills. There will also be a view them from the cliffs. International Date Line, arriving into chance to relax or enjoy some Anadyr on Day 1 of the expedition. ‘birding’ with our naturalists and/ Day 4: Cape Dezhnev and You will clear Russian Customs and or settle into ship life and for many Uelen Village Immigration. of you adjust to the time changes. Sea conditions permitting, we will Late this afternoon we will be in land at Cape Dezhnev early this Day 1: Anadyr the vicinity of Preobrazheniya Bay morning. The north-eastern most All expedition members will arrive where there are some outstanding point of the Eurasian continent, it is in Anadyr; depending on your ‘Bird Cliffs’ which we will Zodiac sometimes possible to see the coast time of arrival you may have the cruise before dinner. of America from this remote and lonely outpost. It is also an historic Day 3: Yttygran, Nuneangan and landmark named after the Siberian Arakamchechen Islands Cossack, Semyon Dezhnev, who in Yttygran Island is home to the 1648 became the first European to monumental ancient aboriginal sail from the Arctic to the Pacific. site known as Whale Bone Alley. Whalebones stretch along the A steep scramble from the beach beach for nearly half a kilometre. brings you to an abandoned There are many meat pits used for Border Guard base, a monument storage and other remains of a busy to Dezhnev and another to all the © A Terauds whaling camp that united several sailors who have sailed these seas. aboriginal villages at a time. In one location, immense Bowhead Cape Prince of Wales in Alaska lies Whale jawbones and ribs are 89km across Bering Strait. A few placed together in a stunning arch nautical miles to the west of Cape formation. Dezhnev we visit Uelen Village; the most north-eastern village in Russia. Gray Whales are frequently seen Archaeological work has revealed around the island. After landing that walrus, seal and whale hunters at Whale Bone Alley we will take have lived here for over 2,000 the Zodiacs on a whale-watching years. Today the population is excursion. We will also cruise close predominantly Chukchi, with some inshore of neighbouring Nuneangan Russians and Inuit. Hunting is still very © A Terauds 3 http://www.carolegobeil.ca/upcoming-expeditions/ [email protected] 1 800 298 6607 x 204 TO WRANGEL AND ACROSS THE TOP OF THE WORLD HERALD ISLANDS important but the village is also one At the south-eastern end of the of the largest centres for traditional island there is a prominent walrus Chukchi and Inuit art in the world. haul out, if the animals are present it is one of the easiest places to We will be entertained by villagers observe them and get some good and visit the bone-carving workshop photographs. during our visit. Sculptures from the bone-carving workshop in Uelen Days 6 to 10: Wrangel and can be found in most of the major Herald Islands museums in Russia. Ice and weather conditions permitting, we will spend the next © J Shaw Day 5: Kolyuchin Island few days on Wrangel Island and if This small island was once an possible we will also include a visit to patience we should be rewarded with important Russian Polar Research nearby Herald Island. a number of encounters. Musk Oxen Station and one of a number and reindeer were introduced to the dotted across the Arctic. Sadly Wrangel Island is one of those island in 1975 and 1948 respectively, with the collapse of the USSR there islands that you have to visit to though reindeer numbers are low. was no money to maintain them appreciate. The earliest human We also have a chance to visit Dragi and they were abandoned; the occupation is dated 3,200 years BC Harbour where the survivors of the buildings are derelict but the wildlife and it has been established that Karluk which was crushed by ice in the men studied are still there. Near they were seasonal hunters from 1914 scrambled ashore and lived until the abandoned station at the north- Siberia. The island’s presence was they were rescued. If ice conditions western end of the island are some speculated about and marked on permit, we will explore Herald Island of the most amazing bird cliffs in maps by early Russian explorers to the east of Wrangel Island. the Arctic; puffins, guillemots, gulls but it wasn’t until 1849 that it was and cormorants can be observed ‘rediscovered’ by the British. A Day 11: North Siberian Coast and photographed from just metres Canadian expedition attempted to Although well mapped and charted, away. establish a permanent settlement there have been very few Expedition and claim the island for Canada; Cruises and consequently there is a they were evicted by the Russians lot of scope for expedition landings. who claimed the island. Depending on weather and sea conditions we will attempt an Today it is a Russian Federal Nature expedition landing today. There are Reserve of international significance several choices, at Cape Vankarem and importance. A lot of its there is a seasonal large walrus haul significance lies in the fact that it is out, the animals may or may not be a major Polar Bear denning area.