P Adel The

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ide ide Park Lands Adelaide’s Park Lands, the city’s greatest asset, have La long been home to large events, as well as numberless small, private encounters. Until now, no book has been nds published to document this wealth of social activity. In The , Patricia Sumerling a social history recounts tales both enchanting and bizarre from the time of earliest European settlement until present days. Where crowds once thronged for a public execution, A A or to see Blondin, the tightrope walker of Niagara Falls S fame, now thousands gather for car races and cultural oci P festivals. Adelaideans play sport in the Park Lands, get at rici married, enjoy picnics, and meet for secret assignations. a l l a

Many simply seek tranquil retreat in the Park Lands – H

S is although, as Patricia Sumerling shows, controversy has umerling been never far away. t ory Hundreds of images, archival and modern, illuminate the stories Patricia has to tell.

ISBN 978-1-86254-914-2

9 781862 549142 PATRICIA SUMERLING Wakefield Press

The AdelAide PArk lAnds a social history

Patricia Sumerling has been a professional historian for more than 25 years. She has written much about the history of Adelaide, including as co-author of the landmark Heritage of the City Adelaide: An Illustrated Guide. Her other interests have included hotel and mining history. Patricia has recently debuted as a novelist with The Noon Lady of Towitta.

The AdelAide PArk lAnds a social history

Patricia Sumerling

Foreword vi Introduction ix contents PArT one ‘oFF To The PArk’ 1 Major events 3 2 By the waterside 35 3 Sporting politics 65 4 A quieter pace 99 5 The dark underbelly of the Park Lands 107 6 Animal sports and activities 121 7 Living on the Park Lands 141 8 A military presence 151

PArT T wo MAkinG And shAPinG The PArk l Ands 9 First impressions 163 1 0 1852 and the second city council 171 1 1 New directions from the 1880s 183 1 2 Postwar policy for the Park Lands 209 1 3 ‘Cows only’ 217 1 4 Veale’s vision 223 1 5 The last formal garden 249 Conclusion 257

Park Lands chronology 261 Abbreviations 269 Chapter references 269 Bibliography 274 Acknowledgements 278 Index 280 Foreword

We are blessed with a capital city enclosed by more than 900 hectares of open green space – the most extensive 19th century Park Lands in Australia, and a stunning asset for South Australians. Adelaide is a city in a park, and these surrounding Park Lands have always played an integral part in the social life. The Park Lands have many forgotten stories to tell, many of which are wonderfully revived here in all their fascination. The way the Park Lands are used by the people has long been a controversial topic, arousing debate whenever an activity encroaches on what is perceived as the ‘original’ purpose. Yet much of the debate is characterised by limited knowledge of how these spaces have been used throughout the years. Few understand the extent, complexities and history of the Park Lands. Over the years their values have been ignored, misunderstood, cherished by a few and fought over by many; it is a wonder they have survived. Parks are truly about people, and this book tells that story well.

vi Here you will delve into the history of the Park Lands, stretching from a home for livestock to a showcase for sports and events and more. These are truly spaces that have become integral to the life and character of this city over many generations. This book explores a great deal of previously unpublished material drawn from newspapers and Council records to reveal an interesting and very diverse history. I hope this encourages people to look at Adelaide City’s Park Lands with fresh eyes, and appreciate both the beauty and cultural depth of our open space.

Stephen Yarwood Lord Mayor

vii viii inTroducTion

The Adelaide Park Lands are unique in Australia, with no known counterparts elsewhere in the world. They date from 1837, when the new town of Adelaide and its dormitory of − completely encircled by Park Lands, as Colonel , the first Surveyor General intended − were surveyed. The uniqueness of the Adelaide Park Lands was recognised on 7 November 2008 when they received Australia’s highest heritage honour by being included in the National Heritage List. The Park Lands surround the city in a green swathe of parks, gardens, ovals and sportsgrounds of approximately 931 hectares (2300 acres), with some areas of around half a kilometre wide swaddling the two parts of the city like a figure of eight. In all the city and the Park Lands comprise an area measuring 13 square kilometres (five square miles). Like a buffer zone, the Park Lands separate the approximately 422 hectares (1042 acres) that make up the city from the sprawling metropolitan area. Stretching 70 kilometres north and south of the city, the Adelaide metropolitan area nestles between the and the sea. Surveyor General Colonel William Light, who made this revered place possible when planning the new colonial capital, is proudly titled the ‘founder of Adelaide’. He was given a list of criteria to guide his search for a new capital and its survey. His assistant, George Kingston, found the site,

LeFT: Aerial view looking eastwards from and the Festival Centre in the foreground to Hackney Road on the boundary of the Park Lands c. 2009. 060105 1783, MArkeTiNg & CreATiVe SerViCeS ACC.

ix and Light settled on the present river valley location during the end of 1836 and the beginning of 1837. Believing that no other site was comparable, Light stated that ‘it was on a beautiful and gentle rising ground, and formed altogether a better connection with the river than any other place’. Equipped with a basic , he adapted it to suit the topography of the site of Adelaide by making the most of both its flat areas and those of a more undulating nature. When the city survey had been completed and the land was ready for sale at the end of March 1837, Light planned a green belt to girdle the town with ‘the outer boundaries of the Park Lands . . . not then definitely fixed, only roughly sketched in . . .’, as George Kingston reminisced in 1877. Light, when he encircled the city with a green belt, may have known of Thomas J. Maslen’s suggestions for model cities, made in 1830, that the ideal Australian town should be surrounded by parklands. Maslen, a retired officer of the East India Company, was the author of the 1830 publication, The Friend of Australia. Michael Williams, author of The Making of the South Australian Landscape, claimed that the significance of ‘the Adelaide plan lies not only in its unique character and formalisation of functional zones, but also in its use as a model for over two hundred towns and villages in , and for several towns larger than these in New Zealand. In addition, it may have contributed to i j the idea of “green belts” which has been applied, and is being applied, with varying degrees of success to many of the world’s largest cities.’ Once Light had decided on the site of the capital, the first migrants, already encamped at Glenelg on Holdfast Bay, moved camp to the undulating Park Lands close to the cool waterholes of the nearby until the survey of their new town had been completed, in March 1837. Here they were sheltered by the dense foliage of magnificent eucalyptus and bushes

LeFT: Colonel William Light as a young soldier, from a portrait by an

unknown artist, 1877. HP0683. ACA. k l OPPOSiTe PAge: , 2010. MiCk BrAdLey.

x xi xii rigHT: ‘What a terrific place for a car park!’ teased cartoonist

Michael Atchison in the Advertiser on 1 December 1971.

COurTeSy MrS OLgA ATCHiSON.

LeFT: A rosella feeding in Rymill Park, 2009. rOB BeCkeTT. and grasses within a woodland environment that was home to creatures such as bilbies, kangaroos, wild dogs and possums. The birds around them included an array of parrots, lorikeets, magpies and kookaburras. It seemed indeed an ideal place for migrants beginning afresh in the new town, or for those trekking off into the virgin hinterland to secure agricultural sections. As for the Park Lands, observant settlers saw how, in just one generation, the natural habitat of the 931-hectare belt, formerly used by Indigenous people from time immemorial, and which was now set aside for the settlers’ use for recreational purposes, had been reduced by nearly 243 hectares (600 acres). They were requisitioned for such purposes as new roads, railway lines, water works, observatories, postal purposes, a gaol, the Thebarton Police Barracks, a university, libraries, art galleries, a zoo and botanic gardens. While almost a quarter of the original Park Lands area has been lost to such purposes, as Peter Donovan notes, ‘the essence of the plan remains intact and continues to give Adelaide its particular character and identity’. From the 1980s there have been efforts to return alienated lands back to the Park Lands and increase the acreage above the remaining 689 hectares (1702 acres). The remaining Park Lands, however, bear little resemblance to those of the pre-European period. A number of theses have been written about the flora and fauna of the Park Lands and their alienation, and a legal history also compiled by the city corporation. To date, little has been written about the cultural and social history of the Park Lands that gives a general overview of their use by Adelaide’s citizens as a place to attend events, play or watch sport, or meet for recreational purposes. Further, little has been written of the abuse of them by individuals, groups of people and the several tiers of government.

FOLLOwiNg PAgeS: Relaxing at Womadelaide, Botanic Park, in 2007. ANdy rASHeed.

xiii xiv xv i j

k l

ABOVe: The Prince of Wales makes a visit to Victoria Park racecourse in 1920. SLSA Prg 280/1/23/318.

Histories of some of the clubs and associations that lease the Park Lands such as the South Australian Cricket Association, Tennis SA, the North Adelaide Golf Club, and the Adelaide University Sports Association have already been written, so this general social history makes reference to them rather than rewrites their stories. Areas such as those used for railways purposes, the , the , roads or the North Terrace institutions are referred to where necessary to give context to the overall alienation, development and use of the Park Lands. That said, this history highlights how the people have used the remaining Park Lands (with the exception of the city’s six squares), and how they were managed by the early colonial and state governments and the city corporation. The use of the Park Lands by sporting institutions and by other individuals or groups of people − whether legal or illegal − has meant that a treasure trove of evidence in archival records,

xvi LeFT: Who remembers i j Progress Day? Children celebrating the day on the South Park Lands in c. 1954.

ACA 1258/16/1.

BeLOw: A visit to Victoria Park by Queen Elizabeth II on 21 February 1963.

ACA 3554/13. k l i j

k l

xvii ABOVe: West Terrace Cemetery on Australia Day, 1992. MiCk BrAdLey. newspaper accounts, diaries of early pioneers, police and colonial secretary records, and verbal accounts has been left behind. The history of the Park Lands is important to the citizens of Adelaide − and indeed to other South Australians and other interested parties − and the quirky, absurd, tragicomic and more bizarre events, the consequence of intentions to improve the enjoyment of the Park Lands for the people, add a colourful element to its telling. Their development by the city corporation has created voluminous accounts of the ways in which the Park Lands have been physically manipulated, realigned, landscaped, manicured and beautified, dammed, sloped, cut, planted, fenced, levelled, alienated, quarried, or deliberately burned − all to further their use by the public. The history of the Park Lands springs to life when we understand why and how people used them and the many activities these lands have witnessed over the past years. This history is divided into two parts. The first part describes how people have used the Park Lands and includes their use as a place to live − legally and illegally. Activities such as weddings, royal visits, bowls, netball or golf, or any sport, even during the era of ‘continental Sundays’ between the late 1930s and 1967, are highlighted. Continental Sundays are so called because

xviii Europeans did not close down their places of entertainment or refrain from playing sport on Sundays. Less known, but now addressed for the first time, are the sexual activities that have taken place on the Park Lands. Also described are activities, events and participants such as Aboriginal corroborees, public executions, the high-wire tightrope walkers, circuses, balloonists, ostrich races, push button birds, birdman rallies, grand prixs and the building of air raid shelters. The second part of the history examines the physical development of the Park Lands, from 1837 until the present day. While this publication does not attempt to be the definitive story of the Adelaide Park Lands, I have chosen to highlight, with many illustrations, some of the major decisions that have affected their evolution, along with events and occasions that pay testimony to their rich and diverse history. Many readers will argue that I have omitted events or activities they believe should also appear on these pages. I take full responsibility for not including these. For those who want more information about the sources used or who wish to undertake their own research, extensive references, together with a comprehensive chronology, can be accessed by referring to the unabridged version of this history held by the Adelaide City Council Archives. Notes on sources cited in each chapter as well as a bibliography and a shortened chronology can also be found at the end of this book.

rigHT: ‘What were parklands, Dad?’ dON ruSSeLL, AdVerTiSer, 10 NOVeMBer

1954.

xix