Fashion, Performance and the Politics of Belonging Among Muslim
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Fashion, Performance and the Politics of Belonging among Muslim Women in Cape Town By: Hibah Hendricks A mini thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Masters of Arts in Anthropology, University of the Western Cape. Supervised by: Professor Heike Becker November 2013 Contents: Keywords ................................................................ ....................................................................i Abstract................................................................ ......................................................................ii Declaration............................................................................................................................... iii Acknowledgements...................................................................................................................iv Chapter One: Introduction .........................................................................................................1 1.1 Context of the Research ...................................................................................................8 1.2 People and Spaces ............................................................................................................9 1.3 Outline of the Thesis ......................................................................................................10 Chapter Two: Hijab fashion, self styling and performance – a global perspective……………... ........................................................................................................13 2.1 Introduction ....................................................................................................................13 2.2 Belonging .......................................................................................................................14 2.3 Performance ...................................................................................................................16 2.4 From uniformed dress to individual expression.............................................................19 2.5 The hijab fashion market: the example of Turkey .........................................................26 2.6 Conclusion......................................................................................................................31 Chapter Three: Doing research on hijab fashion: the local scene ...........................................32 3.1Introduction .....................................................................................................................32 3.2 The making and unmaking of ‘Cape Malay’ ethnicity ..................................................33 3.3 Pictures of dress .............................................................................................................41 3.4 Ethnography ...................................................................................................................44 3.4.1Athlone: Its sub areas and surroundings...................................................................51 3.5 Ethical Concerns and Reflections ..................................................................................55 3.6 Conclusion......................................................................................................................58 Chapter Four: Trading hijab in Cape Town: Islam and feminity in malls and fairs................59 4.1 Introduction ....................................................................................................................59 4.2 Vignettes – Vangate Mall and Gatesville.......................................................................60 4.3 Islam at the mall .............................................................................................................65 4.4 The evolution of Islamic wear shops..............................................................................70 4.5 Hijab expos ....................................................................................................................77 4.6 Hijab Fashion Shows .....................................................................................................80 4.7 Conclusion......................................................................................................................90 Chapter Five: ‘Hijabistas’: middle class Islamic feminitity, social media and fashion shows ..................................................................................................................................................92 5.1 Introduction ....................................................................................................................92 5.2 Gadija Khan – Fabulous in Hijab...................................................................................92 5.3 Gadija Khan Online................................................................ ........................................97 5.4 Conclusion................................................................ ....................................................103 Chapter Six: Sartorial biographies: self styling, performance and belonging .......................105 6.1 Introduction ..................................................................................................................105 6.2 The sartorial biographies of three women ....................................................................106 6.2.1Ilhaam .....................................................................................................................106 6.2.2 Hajirah ...................................................................................................................111 6.2.3 Washiela………………………………..……….………………………………..114 6.3 The local sartorial context............................................................................................120 6.4 Performing ‘Muslimness’.............................................................................................121 6.5 The affect of globalization- the case of Mufti Menk .....……………………………..122 6.6 Creating belonging through dress……………………………………………..…......124 6.7 Conclusion....................................................................................................................128 Chapter Seven: Conclusion....................................................................................................129 Reference ...............................................................................................................................132 Keywords: Muslim women Cape Malay Islamic wear Hijab fashion Self stylisation Performance Belonging International Umma Cape Town South Africa i Abstract This thesis explores how the hijab fashion market has emerged in Cape Town and how Capetonian Muslim women are appropriating hijab fashion as a means of redefining themselves as Muslim South Africans instead of ‘Cape Malays’, the ethnic label given to Muslims in the Western Cape during the apartheid era. I argue that through self stylisation Cape Malay women are performatively rejecting the ethnicisation of Islam during apartheid. I show that ‘Cape Malay’ women are using hijab fashion to perform their ‘Muslimness’ in order to claim a positive and legitimate spot in the ‘rainbow nation’ as Muslims as a religious-cultural category, and not as ‘Malays’, an ethnic category, while simultaneously claiming their belonging to the global umma (Muslim community). The public sphere in contemporary Cape Town is becoming partially and increasingly Islamicised partly due to local aspirations, and partly due to the global Islamic resurgence of the early 21st century. It is in this context that the hijab fashion market has emerged as an increasing amount of women want to be perceived as both fashionable and Muslim. This thesis is based on ethnographic fieldwork which took place mostly between March and September 2011. During this period I worked intensively with producers of hijab fashion and ‘Cape Malay’ women who make use of this style of dress. I have engaged daily in informal discussions with many ‘Cape Malay’ women. With a small number of key participants, I engaged on an ongoing basis over this period and conducted formal interviews with them and observed their style of dress. ii Declaration I hereby declare that Fashion, Performance and the Politics of Belonging among Muslim Women in Cape Town is my own work, that it has not been submitted before for any degree or examination at any other university, and that all sources that I have used or quoted have been indicated and acknowledged as complete references. Hibah Hendricks November 2013 _________________ Prof. Heike Becker November 2013 iii Acknowledgements I would like to thank my participants for their valuable contribution to this study. I am equally grateful to the South Africa Netherlands Research Programme on Alternatives in Development (SANPAD) for the financial assistance they have provided me with and to the SANPAD project members at UWC for their academic support. Particular mention is given to my supervisor Heike Becker who has encouraged and supported me throughout, I am truly grateful for this. Last, but certainly not least, I would like to thank my family for always supporting me in all that I do. iv Chapter One: Introduction Growing up as a Muslim girl in Cape Town I, like many of my friends and family 1 members, was taught to ‘cover my owra’ which locally referred to everything besides my hands and face once I became mukalaf or reached puberty.