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GRAND CANYON a PORTFOLIO by JOHN BLAUSTEIN “Rollin’, Rollin’, Rollin’ on the River.” Rollin’ Rollin’, “Rollin’

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GRAND CANYON a PORTFOLIO by JOHN BLAUSTEIN “Rollin’, Rollin’, Rollin’ on the River.” Rollin’ Rollin’, “Rollin’ MAY 2016 MAY DEEP DOWN INSIDE FROM OUR ARCHIVE ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE RIDING THE RIVER IN 1955 the inner — JOHN FOGERTY GRAND CANYON A PORTFOLIO BY JOHN BLAUSTEIN “Rollin’, rollin’, rollin’ on the river.” rollin’ rollin’, “Rollin’, plus NUDE CARVINGS BY BASQUE SHEEPHERDERS WEST CLEAR CREEK TRAIL FIRE LOOKOUT TREES JAVELINAS THE “CROOKEDEST RAILROAD IN THE WORLD” Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument Grand Canyon 2 EDITOR’S LETTER 30 TRAVELING THE CANYON’S 46 OLD SCHOOL National Park WHITE WATER HIGHWAY ... Apache Elementary began as a one-room Flagstaff 3 CONTRIBUTORS adobe schoolhouse in the early 1910s. Seligman A story originally published in Arizona Jerome Although the building has been rebuilt Prescott 4 LETTERS Highways in June 1960. West Clear Creek and the technology has changed, it’s still By Katie Lee 5 THE JOURNAL a one-room schoolhouse, where Palma Alpine Hudson provides a traditional education to 2016 People, places and things from around PHOENIX May 38 UP FOR HOURS 10 students ranging from kindergarten to the state, including a look back at iconic Hours and hours alone, high above ground, eighth grade. photographer Bob Bradshaw; Grand looking into the distance ... that’s the life of By Kathy Montgomery Canyon-Parashant National Monument; a fire lookout. That is, until a fire breaks out. Photographs by Eirini Pajak Douglas and the United Verde & Pacific Railway, It’s a challenging job under challenging a line once known as the “crookedest conditions. Although most lookout tow- line in the world.” 52 SCENIC DRIVE POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE ers were made of steel, some were simple Williamson Valley Road: From the jagged trees with wooden platforms. Those were profile of Granite Mountain to the glowing 16 DEEP DOWN INSIDE especially popular on the Kaibab National red rocks of Sedona, this scenic route Every year, about 5 million people visit Forest, and some of them are still around. features 70 miles of photo ops. GET MORE Grand Canyon National Park. Of those peo- By Matt Jaffe By Annette McGivney ple, only about 1 percent make it to the bot- Photographs by Joel Hazelton ONLINE tom. John Blaustein is one of the few. He’s 42 WRITE AND WRONG been running the river and making photo- www.arizonahighways.com There was a time, in the early 1900s, when graphs since 1970. And in that time, no one 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH it was considered OK to carve your name has amassed a more impressive portfolio West Clear Creek Trail: The centerpiece /azhighways — and nudes and opinions and random of river-level imagery than Mr. Blaustein. of this hike is West Clear Creek, an idyl- designs — into unsuspecting aspens. @azhighways A Portfolio by John Blaustein lic stream that winds for nearly 40 miles That’s how Basque sheepherders made @arizonahighways through some of the most scenic and least it through months of isolation. Today, it’s visited terrain in Arizona. not OK. It’s detrimental to the trees and By Robert Stieve frowned upon by forest rangers. However, some of those old Basque carvings are being used by archaeologists to learn more 56 WHERE IS THIS? about an interesting chapter in Arizona ◗ An American avocet minds its chicks history. at a riparian preserve in the Phoenix By Terry Greene Sterling suburb of Gilbert. Bruce D. Taubert CANON EOS-1D MARK IV, 1/1250 SEC, F/10, ISO 400, 500 MM LENS FRONT COVER: Dory passengers navigate Marble Canyon in Grand Canyon National Park in 2006. John Blaustein NIKON D2X, 1/180 SEC, F/6.7, ISO 100, 82 MM LENS BACK COVER: A juvenile male mule deer displays its new antlers near the Grand Canyon’s South Rim. John Sherman NIKON D4S, 1/800 SEC, F/6.3, ISO 1000, 500 MM LENS 2 OCTOBER 2015 PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTS AVAILABLE Prints of some photographs in this issue are available for purchase. To view options, visit www.arizona highwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s LETTER CONTRIBUTORS technical improvements in watercraft to layers of National Park Service regulations, the emotions, the camaraderie and the connection to a world MAY 2016 VOL. 92, NO. 5 seldom seen remain virtually the same,” he says. “As for the driftwood campfires and sporadic use 800-543-5432 www.arizonahighways.com of life jackets that Katie describes, that wouldn’t fly in today’s more environmentally conscious PUBLISHER Win Holden and safety-minded world.” EDITOR Robert Stieve Here’s her line about life jackets: “Having ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER, jumped into a few rapids on purpose without DIRECTOR OF SALES & MARKETING Kelly Mero There’s an old theme in our a jacket as have many others, I can only say MANAGING EDITOR Kelly Vaughn new issue — it’s old, in the literal sense. We it’s necessary to know which rapid.” Like her ASSOCIATE EDITOR Noah Austin didn’t plan it that way, but all five of our feature friend Edward Abbey, Ms. Lee is a nonconform- JOHN BLAUSTEIN EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATOR Nikki Kimbel stories focus on old subjects, including one of ist. She has a lot to say, and over the years, she’s The Grand Canyon has been John Blaustein’s passion since 1969, when he met conserva- PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida the last remaining one-room schoolhouses in expressed herself in books, music, magazine tionist and river runner Martin Litton. The next year, he became a dory guide for Litton’s CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney Arizona, old aspens near Flagstaff, and even stories and documentaries. She was multimedia company. He’s been running the Colorado River through the Canyon ever since, and his ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney older ponderosas on the Kaibab National Forest. We have a couple of stories before the term even existed. For Basque sheep- book The Hidden Canyon: A River Journey features Blaustein’s photographs from the MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey about the Grand Canyon, too. herders, things were different. They lived off the vantage point of the Colorado. “Last year, [Photo Editor] Jeff Kida and I were talking on PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi Of all the subjects inside, the Canyon is the oldest. The rock layers at the grid on the San Francisco Peaks, where they had the phone, and I told him there was going to be a new edition of The Hidden Canyon with bottom have been around for about 1.5 billion years, and the gorge itself is very few ways to communicate. Most of them just WEBMASTER Victoria J. Snow more than two dozen previously unpublished photographs,” Blaustein says. From that anywhere from 6 million to 70 million years old. There’s renewed debate chiseled their thoughts into unsuspecting aspens. CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman conversation came this month’s portfolio (see Deep Down Inside, page 16). In the 1970s, about the exact timeline, but most everyone agrees that the Canyon was “The trees gave voice to those who had no FINANCE DIRECTOR Bob Allen Blaustein did six 18-day trips through the Canyon each summer, and though the trips carved by the Colorado River, which has been the subject of many stories in voice,” Terry Greene Sterling writes in Write OPERATIONS/IT MANAGER Cindy Bormanis made for spectacular photo ops, they also presented a challenge: “I had to concentrate this magazine over the years. This month, it’s the common denominator of and Wrong. “There’s one shepherd who carved a not only on the photography, but also on getting my dory and my passengers safely down two more. likeness of the same woman over and over again CORPORATE OR TRADE SALES 602-712-2019 the river,” he says. The new edition of The Hidden Canyon is available now. The first is our cover story. Although we’ve been big fans of John Blaustein on different trees. Others carved smiling and SPONSORSHIP SALES REPRESENTATION On Media Publications for decades, until now, we’d never featured his photography. We finally got ample-hipped nudes, people having sex, houses, Lesley Bennett EIRINI PAJAK it together when we learned that a new edition of John’s classic book, The random designs, political points of view, sheep, 602-445-7160 Eirini Pajak’s assignment for this issue — capturing a day in the life of a one-room school Hidden Canyon, was in the works. It came up in a conversation John was hav- dogs, horses, shepherd names and the dates they in Southern Arizona (see Old School, page 46) — took a lot out of her. “Photographers ing with our photo editor, Jeff Kida. After Jeff talked to John, John sent us his passed through the forest.” LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] always enjoy being asked why they’re so tired after just taking a bunch of pictures,” Pajak 2039 W. Lewis Avenue files, and a portfolio was born. In Terry’s story, you’ll learn more about the Phoenix, AZ 85009 says. “In this case, I had a small space to work with, and I kept getting down on my knees As you’ll see in Deep Down Inside, all of John’s images were made in the sheepherders, and the old trees that served as and standing back up, literally hundreds of times, to find the right perspective. I had a inner Canyon, as opposed to up on the rim. He wasn’t the first photogra- their form of Facebook. It’s one of two stories in GOVERNOR Douglas A. Ducey hard time walking for several days afterward.” She also had to be as unobtrusive and pher to do that, but his catalog of river-level photography is among the most this issue about old trees.
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