sign in sign up
<<
Home , Krakatoa, Lake Toba, Mount Bromo, Mount Rinjani, Semeru

Riding the world travelers

Indonesia’s landscape is dominated by vol- next town. Volcanoes dominate Indone- canoes and is the world’s fourth most popu- sia’s landscape, and with more than 130 lous country (home to an astounding 200 -spewing peaks, this country is one of ethnic groups and more than 245 million the most geographically violent places on people). Lisa and I have six weeks to tra- . In 1883, the infamous eruptions of verse a country comprising of 17,504 tropi- off the Sumatran coast produced cal . Many are uninhabited; some both the most violent volcanic events and are even unnamed. loudest sound in recorded history. The blast was heard more than 3,000 miles South of ’s largest city (), the away. The eruptions and killed air is saturated, and we’re sweat soaked more than 36,417 people. On the outskirts as I look to my GPS for the quickest es- of Beragasti low clouds roll in, and we de- cape route from the suburbs. In the gentle cide not to take the side roads around the morning light, vendors open shutters and Sibayak and Pinto volcanoes; it isn’t a big organize their stock to ready for the day’s deal, as we’ll go by 32 more on Sumatra trade. Squat wooden homes rub shoulders before we cross to . with bright brick stores with low sloping tin roofs that are vividly painted with logos of Roadside Repairs Pepsi and Maggi Noodles, a local favorite. “What’s up?” I ask Lisa at a set of lights. A horse and cart rattle over the broken tar “Nothing’s happening. I can’t move,” came in front of a mint green wall. I’m jolted from the reply. Hemmed in by traffic, we’re go- my daydream as we’re buzzed by dozens ing nowhere fast; a quick inspection iden- t’s the end of the wet season on the caption 1 caption 1 cap- of scuffed mopeds as we ease on the brakes tifies a snapped clutch cable. Under the We are at the Butterworth dock on ’s west coast, and the tion 1 caption 1 caption morning’s already a scorcher. Stinging sweat drips into my eyes as I world’s largest archipelago. Here on 1 caption 1 caption 1 pulling to a stop at traffic lights. To our right inquisitive gaze of 20 locals, we push Li- instinctively duck my head; mere feet above me, my precious mo- Ithe sultry of Sumatra, the rains caption 1 caption 1 cap- a local man walks the largest pink pig I’ve sa’s bike to the front of a small café and set have yet to finish. At the Belawan dock, tion 1 caption 1 caption ever seen. about yanking out the broken cable and 1 caption 1 caption 1 torbike is lofted high and swings like a 700-pound pendulum as it’s my left foot pushes down, and the audible attaching the already in situ new one. The winched from the dockside to the ravaged hull of a weary fishing “clunk” as first gear engages is reassuring. caption 2 caption 2 cap- We are riding due south along the route cafe’s low roof acts as our parasol. As we boat. After a full stop, we thread the blue nylon rope and lash my I sigh and let a grin smear its way across tion 2 caption 2 caption 2 “Jalan Bandar Baru,” a tar ribbon winding finish up amid a volley of questions about bike to the sun baked deck alongside Lisa’s already secured 650 GS. my face as we ride out into the congested caption 2 caption 2 caption across a carpet of rolling green. our journey, I receive a gentle tap on my 2 caption 2 caption 2 cap- Medan city traffic. shoulder. From my knelt position, I turn The short 160-mile passage across the Strait of Malacca from Malay- tion 2 caption 2 caption 2 The Legend of Krakatoa and look up as a slender, toothless, older sia to Sumatra will take two days. Indonesia here we come. The Pacific Ring of Fire As the hours pass by, a pattern is building; man pushes an ice-cold bottle of 7UP into Meandering in second gear, I let myself when we emerge from one small town, we my greasy hand. A young server places consider the ambitious journey ahead if are instantly surrounded by lush green foli- two bowls of Nasi Goreng (a fried dish Text: Simon Thomas we’re to reach northern by June. age for a few minutes before being thrown served for breakfast, lunch, and dinner) on Photography: Simon and Lisa Thomas Running 3,000 miles along the Equator, back into the sprawl and congestion of the a table close by and with a nod indicates

94 www.roadrunner.travel september/october ‘13 95 world travelers

we should eat. A half hour of laughter and falo makes for a gruesome distraction as we easy chat blows by. slip on the worn deck.

On the outskirts of another small village, Disembarking, it’s a short jaunt to Carolina we accelerate and splash through deep Cottages, and after paying a mere $13, we muddy puddles left from recent rain. To our are soon checked in. From the raised porch left, rich dark fertile soil has been plowed of our simple wood cabin, the sunset view and is ready for planting; to our right, a across the is nothing short of breath- contrasting thicket of dense rainforest ab- taking. Just below us a pure white egret sorbs the light. lands elegantly to feed. Indonesia is casting its spell. In the low gears we’re climbing steep switchbacks, mindful of the deep potholes The last three days since leaving Lake caption 3 caption 3 cap- on the corners. Near the top, we slow. Our Toba have been a blur of heavy rain, mud- tion 3 caption 3 caption progress is halted as a dilapidated truck bat- washed roads, and sweet, strong black 3 caption 3 caption 3 tles with the incline and its panicked cargo in roadside cafés where weather- caption 3 caption 3 cap- of mud en-crusted oxen. On the brow, worn men play dominoes and draw with tion 3 caption 3 caption 3 caption 3 caption 3 a white-washed Christian chapel nestles the panache of movie stars on thin smoky back against a copse of wide-leafed palm cigarettes. We’ve shunned the coastal route caption 4 caption 4 cap- trees, and a group of young girls dressed in for the quieter inland central passage, our tion 4 caption 4 cap- immaculate pink walk home from school. winding route at times vanishing into the tion 4 caption 4 caption 4 caption 4 caption 4 humid rainforest. caption 4 caption 4 A Sleeping Turquoise Giant We are riding high above , the Back to School largest in Indonesia. Its still turquoise wa- We are riding in the Minangkabau High- ters beautifully disguise the super lands and south of Bukittinggi, a bustling that lies just beneath. The rain forest has city steeped in Colonial Dutch history and been replaced with Sumatran tropical pine the birthplace of some of the founders of forest; the air is pungent and smells sweet. the Republic of Indonesia. We’re taking Suddenly a clap of thunder erupts so vio- the bends of the new road that skirts Lake lently that we’re both shaken. Simultane- Singkarak at speed, leaning hard into an caption 5 caption 5 caption 5 cap- ously, the skies darken, the heavens open, open right-hander before shifting and set- tion 5 caption 5 caption 5 caption 5 caption 5 caption 5 caption 5 and we’re instantly drowned. The deluge ting up for our line through the left. Pulling has lasted mere minutes but has made our up in Singkarak town, we position the bikes descent to the port in a slippery in front of a traditional Sumatran rumah caption 6 caption 6cation 6 cap- one. The steel ramp of the ferry that we’ll gadang (family long house). Its tall sweep- tion 6 caption 6 caption 6 cap- tion 6 caption 6 caption 6 catch to Toba Island of rattles un- ing roof gables provide a unique style; the der the weight of our rolling bikes; negoti- roof looks like the sail from a tall ship. Ev- ating the fresh carcass of a dead water buf- ery beam and surface is intricately decorat-

96 www.roadrunner.travel 97 world travelers

caption 7 caption 7 ed fume belching traffic, we are approach- hillside temples, white sandy beaches, caption 7 caption 7 ing Bromo Tengger National Park. and packed resorts. A battered ferry deliv- caption 7 caption 7 caption 7 caption 7 Ahead, Lisa’s bike backfires loudly as we ers us to the island of . We cruise caption 7 caption 7 negotiate the very steep and tight turns of through Mataram, the island’s capital, then caption 7 caption 7 the narrow dirt track from the rim of the out through villages where waterfalls cas- Tengger to the floor of this ancient cade down to the road. In the shadow of and vast super volcano. Standing on the (Indonesia’s second highest pegs, we are hard on the throttle, traveling volcano), we head to Lombok’s northeast through a lunar landscape as we cross the coast and Senggigi beach to collect our Tengger Sand Sea. For three miles, we slide next transport. in the deep ash-like waves. To our right Mount Semeru emerges from the sand like We have leap-frogged the islands of Sum- a giant. This is in a near con- bawa and , and at last we are on stant state of growl, belching steam and ash . This morning’s mountainous, ram- into the sky every 30 minutes. At 12,000- bling, coast-hugging route has seen us feet tall, it’s the highest mountain on Java. across the border and into East Timor. Dili, East Timor’s capital city is awash with white On the eastern rim of the caldera, we navi- UN 4x4s. To our left a small painted sign gate the potholed streets of Camara Lawan- reads “Toll marine,” which is the transport ga village and book into the Cemara Indah company we’ll use to ship our motorcycles. Hotel. At just $10 per person, the room is a We made it, just! In a few days, we will sail steal and provides incredible views across for Australia, our 6th continent. the entire Caldera Masif. The following ed with carvings and painted artistry. “Can I beaming smiles confirms that my answer is we are physically drained and within ear morning, we roll out of bed at 3 a.m. to join Indonesia’s spell is powerful, and it has help?” asks a smartly dressed man in khaki well received. shot of the crashing waves pounding Java’s a Russian couple in a hired jeep that takes provided us with some of the best tour- caption 8 caption 8 cap- trousers and a blazer as we check over the southern coast. At a small roadside café the us up to Gunung Penanjakan (view point). ing we’ve had in years. We have ridden tion 8 caption 8 caption 8 caption 8 caption 8 map. Our friend introduces himself as Mr. Java Joy Ride tattered plastic roof flutters in the evening As the sun breaks the distant horizon, the through glorious sunrises and ancient, caption 8 caption 8 Williams and the head teacher of the school On Sumatra’s southern tip (and the port of breeze as we dig into spicy chicken soup scene is biblical. From our lofty perch, we rainforest-adorned mountains. We have we’re parked in front of. “Would you care to Bakauheni), torrents of fast flowing mud and a peanut shrimp sambal (spicy chili can see five separate volcanoes inside the been met with enthusiasm and friendliness caption 9 caption 9 cap- tion 9 caption 9 caption take some refreshment? Some traditional In- pour across the steep road to the ferry where based dish). Tengger Caldera: (7,641 at every turn. This is what motorcycling is 9 caption 9 caption 9 donesian tea? It’s very good,” he continues. we pay $18 per bike and enter the belly of feet), (8,103 feet), Mount all about.RR a new looking vessel for the 17-mile cross- We’ve had four 5 a.m. starts since arriving Kursi (8,467 feet), Mount Watangan (8,730 We park our bikes inside the school ing of the to Java. On deck and on Java, and this morning has been no ex- feet), and Mount Widodaren (8,694 feet). Printable maps, along with the digital version of grounds, and wildly enthusiastic students to our port side (left), Anak Krakatau (Child ception. Pre dawn, we are atop the incred- In the sky, low clouds blend with plumes each issue are included free during all paid sub- scription periods. To access these benefits, visit use their cell phones to photograph each of Krakatoa) gently puffs a tower of smoke ible temple, the world’s biggest of steam and ash, the mix gently illumi- us at www.roadrunner.travel. other astride the bikes before we join teach- into the sky. The blast of a horn has us run- Buddhist monument and a UNESCO World nated in shades of red, orange, and pink ers and female pupils for a group photo. The ning back to the bikes. As the heavy bow Heritage site. A hushed whisper of excite- by the still rising sun. Half a mile below on young students are each wearing an im- doors swing open, we emerge exhausted ment is growing as the sun crests the distant the caldera floor, waves of cool morning maculate white hijab, a veil that covers the into the dusty wetness of the most populous mountains. With our cameras at the ready, fog float across the sand sea before being head and shoulders. In a concrete-walled island in the world. We struggle to hold our our lenses fly into a flurry as the piercing evaporated by the day’s new heat. In the classroom, we spend an hour answering road position on Java’s congested streets. orange light illuminates the 72 Buddha afternoon we venture to the base of Mount questions about life, the West, work, and South of , the island’s capital, we’re statues on Borobudur’s top platform. Built Bromo without our bags and gear and walk travel. In the center of the class, a young knee deep in mud slurry as 25 miles of road in the 9th century, the construction is un- the 253 steps to the sulfur laden mouth of boy stands and nervously but sincerely are dug in preparation for repair. Detouring believable. Six square platforms are topped the volcano itself. Following local tradition, asks, “During your time in my country, north of Labuhan city, we are at last clear of by three circular platforms; all built entirely we buy small wreaths of flowers and toss have you been intimidated or frightened, the mire. In the small villages, children sell without mortar. A small plaque states that them into the abyss in the hopes of calming and is it true that people in the west think bottles of moped fuel and chase us barefoot the temple contains 2,672 relief panels, the spirits within. Back at the Cemara Indah that Muslim people are bad?” Wow. What in hopes of a sale. In the early afternoon 504 Buddha statues, and it took an esti- hotel we collapse tired, but happy, after an a question to be faced with before lunch! I we pass emerald green paddy fields that sit mated 75 years to complete. Surrounded incredible day. answer as carefully as I can, “We have only between the cones of sleeping volcanoes. by Buddhist devotees, we marvel and shoot experienced warmth and friendship in the By the roadside, women scatter rice on the 200 photos before the heat of the day push- Island Pit-Stops countries we’ve traveled through.” I contin- asphalt to dry while their young children es us back to the sanctuary of the Lotus 1 Time is pushing on and running short if ue, “There are only two kinds of people in splash naked in the puddles. The twists and Guesthouse, just a short walk away. we are to reach Australia. Reeling from the world; smart people and stupid people. turns of the road lead us upward and into Java’s eye popping beauty, we’re back on Stupid people believe everything they are the mountains. The cooler air is a welcome Lunar Landscape and a Sea of Sand the bikes and pushing east. We pit-stop for told. Smart people use their own experi- relief. After a full day of riding, the bikes are Past hilltop settlements, pristine , just one night on the hedonistic, tourist- ences to form their opinions.” A roomful of now parked close by, it’s pitch black, and dense rainforest, and 800 miles of congest- entrenched paradise of with its 20,000

98 www.roadrunner.travel september/october ‘13 99 Indonesia T H A I L A N D

Georgetown Total Mileage M A L A Y S I A Approximately 4,013 miles FactsLangsa & Information

Medan Kuala Lumpur Kebun Always consult more-detailed Raya Kebun Samosir Raya Lake Toba maps for touring purposes. Katingan M A L A Y S I A Sibolga Kuching

Padang Sidempuan Pekanbaru

Payakumbuh I N D O N E S I A Bukittinggi Singkarak

Padang Jambi I N D O N E S I A

Palembang Lubuk Linggau Martapura Bengkulu I N D O N E S I A Makassar Bandar Tanete Lampung Bakauheni Java Sea Jakarta W E S T J A V A Bogor Semarang Tasikmalaya E A S T J A V A Bali Sea Flores Sea Purwokerto Klaten Banyuwangi E A S T Borobudur B A L I L O M B O K N U S A Temple Tulungagung T E N G G A R A Dili Mataram Bima Maumere In General Denpasar W E S T Ende E A S T N U S A T I M O R Indonesia consists of 17,508 islands; only T E N G G A R A Savu Sea S U M B A T I M O R 6,000 are inhabited. The largest is Suma- Kupang tra. Indonesia’s location (on the “ring of fire”) makes it the site of numerous volca- noes (at least 150 are active) and frequent . Forests cover approximately Food & Lodging Contact Information 60 percent of the country. However, mil- Rice is the staple food across the islands. • Up to date information on visa re- lions of acres have been cleared for the Nasi goreng (fried rice), mie goreng (fried quirements and travel advice: palm oil industry. The official national lan- noodles), and gado-gado (vegetables www.travel.state.gov/travel guage is Indonesian, a form of Malay. Not topped with peanut sauce and sliced • General travel information: officially an Islamic state, 87.2 percent of boiled egg) are some typical dishes. www.travel-indonesia.com Indonesia’s population is Muslim. Current- ly, the exchange rate is approximately $1 Most cities have medium sized three star Books & Maps to 9.8 IDR (rupiah). ATMs can be found in hotels. Bali offers plenty of four- and five- • Indonesia Travel Atlas by Periplus most cities, and U.S. dollars are easy to ex- star holiday resorts. Budget losmen (staying Editors, Tuttle Publishing, ISBN change. Carry cash for use in the more ru- in someone’s home) are available from $5 978-0804841986, $16.95 ral areas. May to September is a good time up. If you prefer this, expect zero privacy, • Lonely Planet Indonesia by to travel, but it’s hot and humid year-round minimal or non-existent sanitary facilities, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, ISBN in the coastal areas. basic food, often no electricity, and per- 978-1741798456, $33.99 haps bedbugs and rats as roommates! • Indonesia Travel Map, Perip- How to Get There lus Editions (HK) ltd, ISBN U.S. citizens are granted a 30-day visa Roads & Biking 978-0794607258, $8.95 upon arrival; current cost is $25. There are Traffic drives on the left side of the road. two international airports on the island of Drivers often create extra lanes regardless Motorcycles & Gear Java (Jakarta and ) and one on of the lane markings, and local motorcy- 1999 BMW R 1150 GSA Bali. The major international shipping con- clists weave in and out of traffic ignoring 2002 BMW F 650 GS nection is between Malaysia and Sumatra. most traffic regulations. You will share the Luggage Systems: Touratech Zega Pro Ferries connect most of the major islands road with pedicabs, horse and ox carts, Jacket and Pants: Touratech Companero with frequent services. However, some op- pushcarts, cows, sheep, goats, and over Helmets: Airoh Aviator erate only on a bi-weekly (every two weeks) laden small motorcycles! Boots: MX boots -Alpinestars schedule (i.e. Flores to west Timor).A carnet Tech 6 and de passage is required if you are bringing in Gaerne SG10 your own vehicle.

100 www.roadrunner.travel