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Wednesday, February 20, 2019 21

, this is a field blend. • 2016 Lava Cap Old Vine Back in those days they would plant a bunch of different This from the Sierra in the same vineyard and ferment foothills has bold aromas of bri- them together. This includes ary wild berry and cracked pep- Zin, Carignane, Mataro, Alican- per that lead to plush, layered te Bouchet and Malvoisie. It is flavors of raspberry, sage and complex and layered with spicy expresso that finish with zesty ZAP – the 2019 Zinfandel Report fruit and totally smooth tannins. tannins. It packs 15.8% , By Pierre du Mont • 2016 Scott Harvey Vine- A very interesting wine. Threew- but the ample fruit hides it well. yard 1869 inecompany.com Lavacap.com One of my favorite wine tast- Fun fact: America’s oldest ings of the year is the annual Zin- Zinfandel vineyard is not in • 2016 Ballentine Zinfandel • 2016 Rosenblum Rockpile fandel Advocates and Producers Napa or Sonoma but in Amador Reserve Zinfandel Botticelli Vineyard (ZAP) tasting in . county. Scott Harvey owns this There’s not much Zinfandel One of the true pioneers of Zinfandel is not really native to piece of history that was planted left in Napa Valley; it’s been Zinfandel making, Kent Rosen- – most ampelogra- in 1869 in the days when horses mostly budded over to Caber- blum, passed away last year but phers from UC Davis now believe were used for cultivation. They net. But the Ballentine Family the that bears his name it came to California from Croa- have added a touch of and remains committed to its produc- continues on under new owner- tia in the 1800s, but it’s certainly The Rockpile region produces Petite Sirah for depth, but this tion. The wine has a bright berry ship. This single vineyard bot- the trademark of the state. intense, mouth filling Zins. shouts clear pure old vine zin. It nose, medium body with good tling is dense and tightly wound, There is even a bill before the is elegant, pure and refined – not acid to give it balance. A very with minty, black currant aromas state legislature to declare it the and big chewy tannins on the fin- a trace of excess. Grab yourself food-friendly style of Zinfan- and firm, complex flavors of dark official state wine. (Cabernet and ish. Lay this wine down for a few a glass of history. Scottharvey- del. Try it with grilled steaks or plum and anise and a long suc- Pinot producers are protesting.) years and then serve with your .com chops. Ballentinevineyards.com culent finish. Rosenblumcellars. But 99-percent of the world’s best BBQ. Acornwinery.com com Zinfandel is grown in California. • 2016 Rockpile Zinfandel • 2016 Quivira Zinfandel Bcause there is no French equiva- • 2016 Glunz Zinfandel Re- Rockpile Ridge Vineyard Black Boar • 2016 Kunde Century Vines lent, Zinfandel is the closest thing serve Mauritson Wines produces Each year Dry Creek Valley’s Zinfandel we have to a native son. This wine hails from Paso Ro- the Rockpile label from this won- Quivira selects the best blocks of The Kunde family from Sono- World class are bles and, typical of the region, derful relatively new appellation. their estate Zinfandel to create ma’s Kenwood region have been still much less expensive than it is lush and opulent with floral As is typical in Rockpile, this is the Black Boar Cuvee. Intense growing Zinfandel for a long world class California Caber- and blueberry aromas and jam- a huge brooding wine that floods and ripe boysenberry fruit with time. This wine is loaded with nets, but unfortunately the price my dark berry fruit with a touch your mouth with blackberry spice and tobacco accents, this is opulent, jammy fruit, that shows is edging upward. Most of the of anise. It feels full and rich in fruit. It has massive concentra- not a shy style of wine. A couple boysenberry and cherry aromas wines listed below retail for be- the mouth and ends with a long tion which leads to a long finish. of years aging will add complex- with soft ripe flavors of spice, tween $25 and $40. These wines finish. Should drink well over the This is one of those few Zins that ity. pepper and sage. Drink now can often be found at lower prices next five years. Glunzfamilywin- will be better in a few years than through 2025. Kunde.com at places like the Wine Club in SF ery.com it is now. Mauritsonwines.com • 2015 Hendry Zinfandel or on Wine.com. Blocks 7 & 22 • 2016 Leonard Zinfandel A note about my prejudices: I Another rare Napa Zin, for • 2017 Robert Biale Zinfan- Rustridge Vineyard like Zinfandels that are fruit-lad- years Hendry has produced finely del R.W. Moore Vineyard This small winery has craft- en, big bodied, intense and rich. crafted wines that show balance For years Napa’s Robert Biale ed an impressive wine with fruit I am no fan of the lean and mean and finesse. Vibrant and concen- has been a reliable producer of from Rustridge Vineyard in the “finesse” Zinfandels. (If I want trated with a plush, fragrant spice a large number of high-quality Chiles Valley region. It is supple finesse, I’ll drink ). box medley of black peppercorn Zins, and this one is no excep- and elegant, with floral and rasp- I have chosen not to write and wild berry tones. Fruit inten- tion. It is vibrant and full-bodied berry aromas following through about the best known and mas- sity lingers, accented by just the with baked cherry aromas that to soft, lingering flavors of black terful Zin producers, Ridge and right touch of and harmoni- lead to appealing boysenberry, cherry, caramel, and spice. It has Ravenswood, as most wine lov- ous tannins on the finish. Hend- licorice and baking spice flavors, excellent structure and balance ers already know how great their rywines.com with supple, soft tannins on the and should last for a decade. wines are. Instead I have sought finish.Biale.com leonardwineco.com out small, lesser-known produc- • 2016 Bella Grace Zinfan- ers who are doing an outstand- del Estate • 2016 Dashe Zinfandel • 2017 Zo Zinfandel Wine- ing job. The wines below are the This is an up and coming win- Todd Brothers Ranch maker’s Select cream of this year’s Zinfandel ery in Amador County that offers Dashe is an Oakland home- This is a classic Dry Creek crop. a good variety of wines. Their boy winery and they continue to Valley style Zinfandel. Medi- Zinfandel is a mix of ripe, zesty, make the city proud. This beau- um bodied with good structure, • 2016 St. Anne’s Crossing blackberry fruit with an underly- tiful wine is soft and luscious, it is still showing its youth with Zinfandel Rowe Vineyard St. Anne’s Crossing’s field ing sense of elegance and grace. It with appealing raspberry and boysenberry and currant aromas St. Anne’s is part of the Wilson blend was the top wine of the is well balanced, medium bodied spicy vanilla flavors. It is full and leading to concentrated blueber- Family group of , and annual Zinfandel Advocates and and is a luscious crowd-pleaser. round in the mouth with a clean ry fruit in the mouth. Finishes unlike some of the other wineries Producers (ZAP) tasting in San Try with winter stews or braised refreshing finish. It would be a with firm tannins.Zowines.com it has flown under my radar. I was Francisco. lamb shanks. Bellagracevine- perfect partner to a nice bowl of blown away by the power and in- yards.com pasta with tomato sauce. Dashe- • 2015 Edmeades Zinfandel tensity of this field blend wine. It cellars.com Edmeades was one of the pio- is loaded with jammy, blackberry • 2016 Grgich Hills “Grgic” • 2015 Castoro Zinfusion neering wineries in Mendocino’s cobbler fruit and sweet spice fla- • 2015 Hook and Ladder Reserve . Now owned by vors that lead to blueberry, pep- Zinfandel This was a fun one – the only This wine from Paso Robles Jackson they are still turning out per and herb flavors. It is layered A full-throttle Zinfandel non- at the tast- is a blend of Zinfandel with 15% rich, hearty Zins. This is zesty and structured with good acid from the Russian River with ripe ing. Napa’s started Petite Sirah and 5% . It and appealingly rustic, with plum and balance. Should last at least a aromas of cherries, chocolate a winery in his homeland of Cro- is ripe with very good depth and and cassis aromas followed by decade. stannescrossing.com lingering earthiness to flavors of and stout flavors of blackberry big mouth-filling fruit. With 15% atia, and one of the main grapes black pepper and licorice that in , Plavac Mali, is a close black cherry and cassis. Medium alcohol, it is a powerful Zin and • 2016 Harney Lane Zinfan- finish with a softly tannin grip. relative of Zinfandel. This dis- bodied on the palate, it has no not for the faint of heart. Edme- del Lizzy James Hookandladderwinery.com tinctive wine tastes like a Eu- tannins on the finish. This wine ades.com This hearty blockbuster ropean Zinfandel, which means carries its 15% alcohol with mod- comes from a 100-year-old vine- more acid, earth, leather, tobacco esty and should show its best at yard in Lodi and the vines look and a touch of funk (good funk). the dinner table. Castorocellars. like thick bonsai trees. It sports a Very food-friendly. Try this with com ripe, raisiny, opulent nose similar BBQ ribs. Grgich.com to a blackberry cobbler that leads • 2016 Frank Family Zin- into full lush fruit on the palate. • 2013 Three Wine Compa- fandel It clocks in at 15.5% alcohol but ny, Established 1885 This wine captures the es- is not hot or ponderous. It clos- This is another very old vine- sence of crushed blackberry and es with a long, fruit-filled finish. yard dating from 1885 and hid- wild currant flavors, avoiding Harneylane.com den away in Contra Costa Coun- over ripeness and showing fine ty. Rather than being a Zinfandel structure with a long finish. It would benefit from a few years of aging and should last for at least a decade. Frankfamilyvineyards. com

• 2015 Acorn Zinfandel Alegria Vineyard Post your ad in the I have probably written about Acorn Zinfandel more than any other winery over the years. They are a tremendously consistent producer of high-quality wines at Call (510) 626-2468 a fair price. This has a beautiful nose of violets and sweet oak. A [email protected] big expressive style of wine with plums and cherries on the palate