Once again, as has been our tradition for many years, January is month here at Connoisseurs’ Guide. It is a time to which we anxiously look forward with great anticipation, and, while we are rarely disappointed, we confess to a bit of extra excitement this out- ing. January is also the month for the annual Zinfandel celebration hosted by Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP), a non-profit, membership-based association of growers, vintners and consumers dedicated to furthering the cause of their favorite grape through education and promotion in any number of ways, chief of which is the once-a-year -and-food extravaganza in , now known as the Zinfandel Experience, slated this year for January 17 to 19. The three-day gathering, which has become an institution, attracts devoted Zin lovers from around the world and this year includes dinners, seminars and an auction, all leading up to a Grand Tasting of from some of the state’s finest producers. We rarely miss the event and learn something new every time, and there is simply no better venue for dyed-in-the-wool Zinfandel zealots and interested newcomers alike to meet its many makers and immerse themselves in the pleasures to be had from ’s unique contribution to the world of fine wines. Information about and tickets to the festivities can be found at https://zinfandel.org/events/zinfandel-experience-2019/. Last year’s presentation was particularly rewarding, and we cannot wait to see what discoveries await in 2019.

ZINFANDEL Few, if any, varieties have had such a long history in California, and, while it may have had its ups and downs over the years, Zinfandel has endured and claims an important contemporary place on California’s roster of significant and satisfying red wines. This month’s survey of new offerings is one of our longest to date, and counts collectable, not-to-be-missed wines from many of Zin’s most capable, well-established makers such as Beekeeper, Jeff Cohn and Rockpile to name but a few and includes several eye-opening efforts from names that are new. Sauvignon Blanc earns its well-deserved share of praise for good value, but, as our January update on recent releases confirms, there are more than a few surprisingly complex and serious efforts that are bound to surprise those who still mistakenly think of the variety as a second-class grape. It yields wonderfully food-friendly wines that can age famously, and it is gaining respect as a new generation discovers its manifold charms. THE YEAR IN REVIEW As we begin a new year, we pause for a moment of retrospection and take stock of the one that has come before. 2018 was, by and large, a year without vinous turmoil here on the West Coast. The was bountiful, a bevy of noteworthy new wines came to mar- ket, and we look back in amazement at what has been an unprecedented, still-continuing run of fine . THE BEST WINES OF THE YEAR We taste thousands of very good wines annually, yet there are always those that somehow stand out in memory as we sort through our favorites of the past year. Choosing from such a lengthy list of worthies is a happy, if at times, difficult task, and, after much thought, we are pleased to present your trusty editors’ picks of the top ten *** and ** bottlings that made their ways to our table in 2018. BEST BUYS may be central to holiday celebrations, but we think it is a necessity throughout the year, and there is host of fine offer- ings to be had at prices that invite drinking on a regular basis. Affordable favorites in and round out this month’s shopping list of Best Buys and are happy reminders that there is no need to forego good wine as we tally up recent seasonal expenses.

zinfandel pg 40 sauvignon blanc pg 53 the year in review pg 56 the best wines of the year pg 57 best buys pg 58 January 2019

It has been argued that Zinfandel has long suffered from something of an “identity crisis” insofar as it defies simple definition and, in fact, is a variety that can yield wines in a vast and varying number of styles. It has been a California mainstay since the nineteenth century and was one of the few varieties that managed to survive Prohibition owing to its popularity with home who were legally allowed to make up to 200 gallons a year for personal consumption, but it has no European legacy for making “noble” wines and is without a classic, old-world model that seems to necessarily be the requirement of legitimacy in the minds of so many would- be arbiters of just what makes a wine great. We have commented before that Zinfandel’s original sin and biggest liability is that it is not French, but, as its devotees know so well, there is simply no other wine quite like it. There is no question but that in recent years, Zinfandel has been gaining prestige as a new generation of vintners have turned their attention to crafting serious wines reflective of place, and interest is rising in preserving generations-old heritage vines. The state’s Zinfandel acreage has decreased by more than 10% in the last decade according to the latest USDA report, but Zinfandel is still the third-most planted behind Cabernet Sauvignon and and is behind the latter by less than 100 acres. Most any discussion of modern Zinfandel begins with lamentations about its unfortunate tenure as a source of mawkishly sweet pinks in the 1970s and 1980s, but there have always been a handful of well-made examples, despite its widely held reputation as a second-class variety. That number has been on the rise over the last twenty or so years with important producers such as Ravenswood, Ridge and Rosenblum paving the way for a new generation of vintners who regard Zinfandel as no less rewarding than any of the wine world’s heralded grapes. It may not have attracted the same legions of thirsty wine drinkers who cannot seem to get enough , Cabernet, Pinot Noir and, yes, Pinot Grigio, and it does not command the same representation on restaurant lists and retailers’ shelves that we think it deserves, but its champions are an especially dedicated lot, and the winds of fashion appear to be gently blowing its way. As for Zinfandel having an identity “crisis,” we would argue that its ability to succeed in making wines that range from heady and opulent to more structured and refined is hardly a handicap. The same criticisms have dogged local Syrah, but, in the end, claims that Zin is hopelessly confusing to consumers are demeaning to wine lovers who are seen as being incapable of navigating their ways through its range of styles and finding which ones are appealing to taste and circumstance. More than ever, inquisitive drinkers are looking to learn and experience without summarily being told what to like, and Zinfandel affords opportunity for exciting discovery on the part of those new to its unique and manifold satisfactions. Old Zinfandel hands certainly have their favorites, as do we, but, as our first reviews of the New Year affirm, new labels appear with every , and even its most practiced makers are loathe to rest on past laurels and work to continually refine the art. These are good times to be drinking California wines in general, and the latest crop of new is most definitely one that should not be missed.

Tasting Note Legend OUTSTANDING WINES CHARACTERISTICS & TRADITIONAL USE WITH FOOD

*** THREE STARS (95-98 points) An exceptional wine S Soft and fruity wine Quaffable by itself or with light foods Worth a special search of the market F Crisp white Medium acid and dry Fish or delicate flavored foods ** TWO STARS (91-94 points) A highly distinctive wine C Mellow white Dry to slightly sweet Enough acid for white meats Likely to be memorable l Full and balanced dry White Try with rich seafood and fowl dishes * ONE STAR: (87-90 points) Fine example of a type or style of wine. Without notable flaws. L Light Red and powerhouse White Fowl veal and light meats Medium Red Balanced good depth medium tannin NOTE Wines not marked with stars are often delightful wines Each has unique B Beef and lamb virtues and any of these wines may be the best wine to serve your needs based on value availability or for your dining and taste preferences *Prices – T Robust Red Full tannin intense flavors For highly spiced Approximately California full retail prices meat dishes d Sweet  Enjoyable by itself or with sweet desserts Connoisseurs’ Guide tastings are conducted with Stemware. AVAILABILITY DRINKABILITY

3 Generally available in most market areas D Drinkable now Unlikely to improve with further aging 1 Limited production andor limited geographic distribution I Drinkable now Further bottle aging can improve this wine O Very limited availability A Cellar for future drinking Wine will improve with bottle aging GV Good Value U Not suitable for drinking

JANUARY 2019. © 2019 by CONNOISSEURS’ GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA WINE. All Rights Reserved. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to: Connoisseurs’ Guide [ISSN 0161-6668], P.O. Box 8, Pinole, California 94564. CONNOISSEURS’ GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA WINE is published monthly at 2691 Doidge Avenue, Pinole, California 94564 and is available only by subscription. CONTACT: Email: [email protected]. Website: www.cgcw.com. Phone: 510-417-2833. Publisher/Editor: STEPHEN M. ELIOT. Publisher Emeritus: CHARLES E. OLKEN. /Subscriber Relations: LYNNE CHAR BENNETT. Administrative Support: THERRY OLKEN. SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION: Subscribers receive our magazine on the first of every month, with hundreds of wine reviews and other important consumer oriented information. Every wine reviewed is presented as part of our comprehensive reports on available wines and are also included within our extensive, sortable database of past reviews now numbering close to 30,000 separate entries. Each monthly issue is sent by email and is also downloadable directly printed in magazine format both from the email as well as from our website. Subscriptions are $96 for one year and $170 for two years. DELIVERY OPTION: The Magazine version is downloadable on the first of the month through our email to you. For those who prefer that Connoisseurs’ Guide send a Magazine version via the Post Office (First Class mail), we are pleased to offer that option for an additional $25 per year.

40 iq ANCIENT PEAKS Santa Margarita Ranch 2016 ir ANGRY BUNCH Dry Creek Valley 2016 Big, highly ripened and as unsubtle as they come, this full-bodied Lightly spicy in a slightly briary way but insistently fruity with a Zinfandel is long on extract but short on keen fruit with heat and bright berry quality that stays in frame throughout, this zesty, drying astringency to spare. It is tough enough to make the case moderately full-bodied youngster gets a good lift from obvious for additional bottle time, but keeping comes with no guarantee acidity, but fights against equally obvious tannins that tend to that polish is in the offing. 3 T I $20.00 close in at the finish, and its wiry traits and evident astringency make a case for a bit of age. 1 B I $25.00 iq ANGRY BUNCH Lodi 2016 10% Petite Sirah; 3% Syrah. Although not a wine that goes to chocolaty extremes in the nose, and one that smacks more of strawberries than the more typical dark fruit of Zin, this fairly full- bodied working edges to ripeness on the palate and hints at a touch of sweetness as it does. It is easy to drink but wants for * it ANDIS Old Vines Original Grandpère 2016 keener fruit focus and promises little in the way of improvement Amador County. Sporting more fruity potency than either of its with further age. 3 B D $18.00 cellarmates and a solidly Zin that shows a touch of dark chocolate to its ongoing message of concentrated, well-defined blackberries, this weighty offering stays on point from start to finish and is not derailed by excessive ripeness or heat. It is fit with a modest measure of firming tannin but is accessible and easy to taste now and shows good promise for three or four years of positive growth. O T I $40.00 * it BELLA GRACE Old Vine Amador County 2016 ir ANDIS Estate Friedlander Block Amador County 2016 A bit more convincing in fruit than its two 2016 cellarmates, yet a Although leading with a moderately fruity nose of black and red wine that reflects the same sense of sinewy substance and heft, berries, this full-bodied wine gradually fixes on ripeness as its Bella Grace’s Old Vine bottling is a burly, big-bodied Zinfandel dominant theme, and hard-to-ignore heat ultimately gets the with plenty of meat on its bones and the fruity extract to earn a better of its nominal varietal fruit. It leans slightly to softness and place as the pick of the three. It, too, is more tough than refined is no more than modestly tannic, and, while a tasty enough Zin and will benefit from a few years of smoothing, but it will serve that will do the trick when paired with full-flavored dishes and in a pinch now with the heartiest fare. 1 T I $29.00 richer cheeses, its shortfall of fruity energy leaves it just short of * is unqualified recommendation. 1 T D $25.00 BELLA GRACE Estate Amador County 2016 Obviously extracted but a bit grudging in showing its fruit on the iq ANDIS Amador County 2016 nose and likewise well-stuffed, if less than keenly fruity on the Starting out with a likeable nose of ripe berries framed with a bit palate, this gutsy youngster inclines to the rustic toughness that of hardwoody sweetness, this rounded, slightly sweet-seeming marks so many of its Sierra Foothill cousins. It is not big on effort tends to dryness once in the mouth and spends its fruity refinement just now and is unlikely to become an elegant wine capital quickly as its frontal flavors pull up fairly short and end on over time, but it is solidly Zinfandel in character albeit a little a slightly desiccated note. 1 T D $25.00 rough and tumble in style. 1 T I $34.00 * is ANGRY BUNCH Mendocino County 2015 ir BELLA GRACE Amador County 2016 6% Petite Sirah; 3% Syrah; 2% . Smelling and While starting out on the lighter and quieter side of things with tasting of ripe berries and plums with a nod to proper ripeness pleasant, but limited aromas of red berries, this slightly sinewy and never a wine that goes to the brink, this relatively temperate, young Zin surprises a bit by being bigger and better filled once medium-full-bodied look at the grape counts vitality and good in the mouth. It is rough around the edges with grippy tannins balance as significant assets, and, while showing a few youthful coming on at the finish, yet, if there are no guarantees that it will angles and edges, it is essentially bright and buoyant stuff that find a marked increase in polish with age, it has a sufficiently fruity keeps heat and tannin nicely in check. heart to make keeping for a few years the preferred choice all the GOOD VALUE O B I $21.00 same. 1 B I $22.00

*** js BEEKEEPER Montecillo Vineyard 2016 Sonoma County. Zinfandel is rarely the recipient of the kind of swollen prose and lofty scores that are routinely thrown Cabernet Sauvignon’s way, but we suspect that even the fussiest collector of trophy wines will rethink their opinion of the variety when met with an example as deep and wonderfully well-crafted as the latest Beekeeper is. While very rich and long on exceptionally pure varietal fruit, the wine is already showing uncommon finesse and tailoring, and it is destined to age famously and grow ever more involving over the course of the next five to ten years. It is most definitely a “keeper” and deserves a place in the cellar of every serious Zinfandel devotee. O B I $65.00

41xx the wine gamely keeps fruity brightness in play and is certain to do tasty near-term service with the likes of Tagliatelle alla Bolognese. O B D $27.00 ir BINZ Fox Creek Vineyard Shenandoah Valley 2015 Taking a bit of air before finding its fruity bearings and a more generous wine in the mouth than its dense, but slow-to-unfold aromas predict, this weighty and slightly rounded, full-bodied working winds up tasting of well-ripened berries and its fruit does a credible job of holding its own against evident heat and the emergence of last-minute tannins. O B I $28.00 iq BINZ Shenandoah Valley 2015 ** jm BENOVIA Sonoma County 2016 Edging to chocolate and emphasizing simple ripeness over defined As this wine so capably attests, ripeness and fruity abundance are fruit with scattered suggestions of dried grapes showing up in not antithetical, and, while a weighty, very rich, full-bodied effort both its aromas and ample, but fairly rough-hewn flavors, this that commands attention, it is a wine of real varietal authority wine momentarily wins favor for its rounded palatal beginnings that is never so ripe as to lose its identity. It is, withal, a very deep but gives way to obvious back-end heat and a little too much and impressively concentrated wine that fills the mouth and holds tannic bitterness at the finish. O T I $30.00 and holds at the finish, and, even if showing a bit of the fruity flamboyance that makes good Zinfandel so appealing in its youth, this is one eminently worthy of laying away with the guaranteed prospect of additional complexity and polish to come over the course of the next half-dozen years. 1 T A $42.00

* iu CAROL SHELTON Karma Reserve Sonoma County 2015 57% Zinfandel; 25% Petite Sirah; 10% Cabernet Sauvignon; 7% Alicante Bouschet; 1% . The most approachable of the several Carol Shelton offerings, owing perhaps to its extra year of age, the 2015 Karma Reserve is a juicy, nicely filled wine * it BINZ Fox Creek Vineyard Shenandoah Valley 2013 that is beginning to show an appealing sense of layering to its Amador Zinfandels are typically wines of substance and sinew, rich, sweetly oaked aromas and flavors of healthy, well-ripened, and this one fits the model, but it counts concise, well-ripened, blackberry fruit. It teases with a bit of suppleness that foreshadows blackberry fruit as its first virtue and, having reached its fifth good things to come, and, if tasty now, it has the structure and birthday, has lost much of its youthful toughness. It is supple to energy to get even better if allowed to rest for another three to start and still a bit tannic at the finish, but its persistent fruity five years. 1 T I $30.00 presence is not sacrificed to astringency, and it will handily fill the bill now in mealtime settings when only a sturdy and solidly built * iu CAROL SHELTON Cox Vineyard Reserve Old Vine 2016 Zin will do. O T I $28.00 Mendocino County. 14% Carignane; 8% Petite Sirah. Direct and very specific blackberry fruit sits at the heart of this one, and, * is BINZ Shenandoah Valley 2016 from first sniff to finish, the wine is solidly varietal and shows a This nicely controlled, mid-sized Zin is ripe without stepping over little more winemaking polish than its slightly bigger, marginally the line and counts both fairly well-defined, varietal fruit and riper mates. That is not to say that it lacks for ripeness, it simply careful balance on the positive side of its ledger. It is not a wine puts the emphasis on fruit with touches of soil and spice lending that goes for big impact but is steady in its berry-like focus, and a subtle bit of complexity. It is full-bodied without being at all its temperate style tags it as a useful mealtime choice that does heavy and it earns good marks for both its balance and its well- not demand hearty foods to succeed. O B I $30.00 sustained finish. O T I $28.00 * is BINZ Fox Creek Vineyard Shenandoah Valley 2014 * it CAROL SHELTON Rocky Reserve Florence Vyd. 2016 Redolent of black cherry cola in scent with a lightly woodsy trim Rockpile. 13% Petite Sirah. Following in the footsteps of its mate to both its aromas and flavors, this nicely textured Zinfandel has from the Peaceland Vineyard insofar as it is appointed with plenty aged gracefully and sports an attractively supple feel with nary a of deep, well-focused ripe berry fruit and on the slightly astringent, hint of toughness or heat. Although it shows no signs of imminent acid-firmed side of things at the moment, this solid, somewhat fading, it is ready to enjoy now, and we would opt for drinking rustic youngster is similarly a Zinfandel that begs for a few years sooner than later. O B D $28.00 of patience. It is not rough and tough as much as it is a bit taut * is and noticeably rigid at the finish, but it has more than enough BINZ Esola Vineyards Shenandoah Valley 2013 fruity substance and depth to make two to four years of aging Still fairly fresh on the nose despite its extra years and strongly an entirely worthwhile proposition. 1 T A $36.00 suggestive of crushed boysenberries with notes of dry spice to its aromas, this firmly built bottling is geared to acidy brightness on * it CAROL SHELTON Peaceland Vineyard 2016 the palate, and its surprisingly lively flavors are more narrow than Fountaingrove District. 16% Petite Sirah; 3% Carignane. The broad and expansive. Its acidity works to accentuate its nominal relatively new Fountaingrove District AVA just east of the Russian tannins, and things do tend to dry just a bit in the late going, but River Valley is the source of this intensely aromatic young Zin, yet,

42 while leading with an immediate, well-filled nose of ripe berries measured than lavish even upon hitting its peak some three or and lightly vanillin and featuring lots of upfront fruit on the four years down the line. 1 B I $42.00 palate, this fleshy but tightly wound wine is beset by pushy acidity that presently amplifies the astringent effects of its very noticeable * is DASHE The Comet Sonoma County 2016 back-end tannins. For all of its early appeal, it gets fairly unruly 50% Zinfandel; 40% Petite Sirah; 10% Carignane. Very clearly by the time that it finishes and very much wants to be set aside showing the tannin that comes with two of its three components for a few years. 1 T A $35.00 but still evoking a certain blackberry element that is the hallmark of the first, the Dashe Comet is a relatively sturdy wine that, for ir CAROL SHELTON Wild Thing Old Vine 2016 now, is about structure more than welcoming fruit. All that it Mendocino County. 14% Carignane; 8% Petite Sirah. Fully ripe asks for is a couple of years of age, and, if never an especially and edging to sweetness with a chocolaty trim to its loosely berry- succulent wine, it should show a fruity bloom if granted a bit of like nose and emphasizing ripeness a little more forcefully than cellar time. 1 B I $42.00 defined fruit in its slightly dry and narrow flavors, this wine tends to stiffen following a brief bit of early suppleness and pulls up a * is DASHE Reserve Dry Creek Valley 2016 touch short at the finish with evident acidity coming on as its With a straightfoward varietal nose of mixed berries, cocoa and early fruit loses traction. 3 B I $19.00 subtle oak and flavors to match, this firm, slightly dry-edged look at Zinfandel hits the right marks without hitting any with great * it CASTORO Reserve Zinfusion Paso Robles 2015 intensity or flare. It gets a tad rough and unruly at the eleventh 15% Petite Sirah; 5% . If unlikely to please those who hour, but a year or two in the bottle should smooth off its ragged prize delicacy and nuance above all, Castoro’s very full-bodied edges as will the tempering effects of food if it is poured in the Zinfusion will never be accused of timidity, and its potent, full-on shorter term. 1 B I $30.00 presentation of sweet, very ripe fruit will find favor with Zin lovers who like their wines to be big and bold. Make no mistake, ir DASHE Florence Vineyard Dry Creek Valley 2016 it is intense and fairly blustery stuff with plenty of palpable back- As taut and tangy as it is fully ripe with a dollop of sweet oak put end heat owing to its stated 15.8% alcohol, but it is surprisingly into play early on, this wine fights to find a keener sense of fruit, successful in keeping the grape’s blackberry fruit in sight at all but its task is made more difficult as ripeness and elevated acidity times, and, if not for the faint of heart, it is a Zinfandel that most presently pull it in two directions at once. It is full-bodied and definitely delivers the goods. fairly hard at the edges, and it can very much do with a few years GOOD VALUE 1 T I $24.00 of smoothing. O T A $42.00 ir CIRQUE DU VIN Red Wine Paso Robles 2016 By Peachy Canyon. Comprised of a far-reaching mix of varieties ranging from Zinfandel to Cabernet Sauvignon and with a little Petite Sirah and tossed in for good measure, this likeable, brightly balanced red blend is, not surprisingly, short on varietal specifics, but it is ripe, clean and fruity with but a bare bit of tannin and a turn of acidity that argues for service with sweet and tangy barbecued fare. 1 B D $19.00 * is DAY El Diablo Vineyard Russian River Vineyard 2016 Ripeness plays second fiddle to defined Zinfandel fruit here, and, while the wine has plenty of palatal weight, it is not a notably big example as Zins go and tends more to structured firmness than to big muscles and fat with evident acidity making itself D known as it goes. It will turn the trick as a partner to sundry savory pork dishes in the near term but should gain in refinement if left to sit in cellar for another few years. 1 B I $48.00 * jl DASHE Late Harvest Dry Creek Valley 2016 More often than not, the designation of Late-Harvest on a Zin * is DAY Grist Vineyard Dry Creek Valley 2016 label is a sure sign of high alcohol, but, in this instance, the wine Far and away the ripest and most sizeable of the Day Zinfandel has retained a considerable amount of residual sugar (12%) and trio, this one from the Grist Vineyard is a fairly full-bodied edition is an immensely fruity wine that keeps heat well in check. It is far that starts out on a slightly rounded, glyceriny note then grows more than an exercise in simple sweetness and keys on varietally ever firmer with late-arriving tannins leaving a bit of a pucker in specific berries from front to back with fine acidity warding off its wake. It does not, however, err to heaviness and heat, but its cloying confection, but, in spite of its very commendable balance, slightly rustic inclinations steer it to service with comparatively this is far sweeter than any entrée will want as a partner. It needs hearty entrees. 1 T I $43.00 to be reserved for dessert settings and will succeed famously as * is a dessert in and of itself. 375 ml bottle. 1 d I $30.00 DAY Sonoma County 2016 Smelling first of ripe berries and secondarily of a touch of savory * it DASHE Todd Brothers Ranch Old Vines 2016 spice with moderately fruity, berry-like flavors putting it on the Alexander Valley. This wine turns out to be a bit leaner and clear varietal track, Day’s Sonoma County bottling is a slightly more tightly structured on the palate than its rich and outgoing supple, fairly straightfoward Zin that never raises its voice but aromas predict, but it is youthful reluctance more than any lack stays true to the grape from front to back. It is just tight enough of inner fruit that presently holds it back. True, it is not a member at the finish to suggest that it will benefit from a few years of of the ultraripe crowd, but it is more than ripe enough, and, if it age, but it is not tough or tannic and will make for comfortable wants time in which to further unwind, it promises to be more mealtime use in the short term. 3 B I $27.00

43 structured Estate Zin is a big, but very well-balanced working whose ample bones are covered with plenty of fruity flesh. It is distinctly varietal through and through with a spicy, slightly stony turn that earns it an appreciative nod for complexity, and it can be counted on to evolve nicely and become more interesting yet over the next half-dozen years. 1 T I $35.00 * jl DRY CREEK VYD Wallace Ranch DCV7 2016 Dry Creek Valley. Not only the most outgoing of the aromas in * it EASTON Old Vine Rinaldi Vineyard Fiddletown 2015 this set of Dry Creek Vineyard wines but also among the most Smelling of ripe blackberries with a veneer of woodsy spice and inviting in this Issue, it smells of fresh, ripe blackberries with the fully reflecting the same in its dense, highly extracted, mouthfilling nicest wisp of strawberries and cream in the background and a flavors, this burly, big-bodied, young Zin has plenty of swagger complexing spicy note at the margins. Full but not overly heavy but, for now, is little concerned with refinement. It is sufficiently on the palate and quite tasty, the wine does bring a noticeable tannic to warn off hasty drinking, but its essential fruit emerges dose of tannins to the party and will want at least a couple years intact at the finish and serves as a guarantor of better with age. of cellaring to round out, and we would expect that a wait of Allow for at least two or three years of additional softening and four to six would be even better. 1 T I $42.00 integration here. 1 T A $35.00 * jl DRY CREEK VINEYARD Old Vine Dry Creek Valley 2016 * it EASTON Fiddletown 2015 19% Petite Sirah; 3% Carignane. Echoing its predecessor in most As immediately inviting as this wine’s generous aromas of freshly every way, Dry Creek’s 2016 Old Vine bottling again inclines to baked berry pie may be, there is no getting around the pushy, structured sturdiness yet is marginally deeper in continuous fruit truncating tannins that rush up on the palate and remind that a and displays exceptional Zinfandel focus throughout its length. wine’s smells and flavors are not always the same. It has fruit It, too, is a wine that promises to age famously, but those who aplenty, but it is not ready for prime time drinking, and even those are forgiving of a bit of youthful astringency will find plenty to who can look past its astringency will find more to like once a like even now. That said, we see it gaining with time and expect few years have passed, and it is comfortably priced for putting a it to reach a polished, but still-potent peak some three to five few bottles away. years down the line. O B I $35.00 GOOD VALUE O T I $25.00 * iu DRY CREEK VINEYARD Old Vine Dry Creek Valley 2015 * is GREEN & RED Tip Top Vineyard Napa Valley 2014 22% Petite Sirah; 2% Carignane. Here is a moderately big Zin Far from fruit-forward but a slightly deeper and better-filled effort that is both weighty and well-structured, and it steers away from than either of its two similarly solid, firmly structured mates, the extravagant ripeness with ample, dark berry fruit center stage at winery’s 2014 Zinfandel from the Tip Top Vineyard ups the ante all times. It is still a bit rugged and comes with a fairly full dose as far as fruity muscle is concerned while favoring the savory spice of tannin thanks to its complement of Petite Sirah, and, while not qualities that mark the bunch as a whole. It, too, is tannic, though prohibitively astringent, it is a sturdy example that is sure to be not oppressively so, and, given the choice, we would wait on it bettered by three or four years of age. 1 T I $35.00 for another couple of years. 1 T I $34.00 * it DRY CREEK VYD Four Clones Vineyard DCV2 2016 ir GREEN & RED Chiles Canyon Vineyards 2016 Dry Creek Valley. And, speaking of the gruff nature that can be Napa Valley. None of the Green & Red Zinfandels goes wanting part of the Zinfandel package, this wine is the most solid, almost for ripeness, yet each is sparing when it comes to outgoing fruit, blocky of the Dry Creek lot, and, while its fruit is deep enough and, if this one musters a little more fruity conviction, it is defined to stand up to the task of outliving its tannic structure, this wine less by its halting blackberry presence than by its firm, slightly is also a bit less inviting than the Wallace Ranch bottling. Still, if rigid structure and toughening back-end tannins. While it is sure you want a wine to put away for six years or more, this would to benefit by a year or two of age, its chances for increased charm be a very good choice. 1 T A $42.00 are uncertain at best. 1 B I $26.00 * it DRY CREEK VYD Spencer’s Hill Vineyard 2015 iq GREEN & RED Chiles Mill Vineyard Napa Valley 2015 Dry Creek Valley. 21% Petite Sirah. Similar in ripeness to the Relatively muted in fruit and playing instead to the grape’s more wine above but a little drier overall and thus showing a slight savory aspects with elements of briar and stony earth to the fore, drift into dense and concentrated characteristics that flirt with but this sparsely filled, medium-full-bodied bottling comes up short do not embrace a wayward bit of desiccation, this full-bodied on Zinfandel’s juicier traits and drifts steadily to dryness before bottling also plays a bit toward the rustic end of the Zinfandel finishing on a fairly sere note. It makes claim to a bit of complexity, spectrum. Yet, despite those tannins, we would not see a longer but, in the end, it is less than complete. 1 T I $30.00 aging curve for this one given that its fruit is not quite as generous * iu as its sibling from the Wallace Ranch. 1 T I $42.00 GRGICH HILLS Napa Valley 2014 The latest effort from Grgich Hills is a solid, very well-structured * jl EASTON Estate Shenandoah Valley 2015 Zin that, while deep in defined fruit, is still a little restrained at Smelling at first of sweet, ripe raspberries but taking on more this point when compared to fruitier, up-front versions that are depth and a darker fruit tone with air, Easton’s hefty, solidly tasty as soon as they are bottled. It is built with a firm spine of

44

yet, when served with a well-seasoned lamb shank or something of that ilk, it shines even now and will only get better and better for up to a decade to come. 1 T A $45.00 ** jn JEFF COHN Rinaldi Vineyard Fiddletown 2016 Intense, extracted blackberry fruit with a quiet note of rich-earth minerality and subtle hints of ripe blueberries give this nose its own distinctive cast, and while the wine has all the size, depth tannin that ensures a lengthy lifeline ahead, and, if not so closed-in and richness that one expects of the winery, it holds itself out as that it cannot be enjoyed now, it is a wine well worth cellaring for distinctive more than different. Its full body and somewhat fleshy another three or four years and one that will hold up nicely for feel on entry lead to generous flavors and also to quite noticeable twice as long. 3 B I $36.00 tannins, all of which lead us to want more mid-term than long * it HARNEY LANE Lizzy James Vineyard Old Vine 2016 cellar aging for this one. O T A $45.00 Lodi. Sourced from vines that are well over 100 years of age ** jm JEFF COHN St. Peter’s Church Vineyard 2016 and unquestionably deserving its “Old Vine” designation, Harney Alexander Valley. From a vineyard with a reputation for dense, Lane’s flagship Zinfandel is a big, bold expression of what Lodi ripe, occasionally over-the-top wines, Mr. Cohn has brought a does best. It trades refinement for potency and exhibits plenty of modest measure of temperament to the beast without losing the fruity muscle, and, while emphatically ripe and showing a bit of concentration that remains the vineyard’s hallmark. Ripe, deep heat as proof, it is surprisingly well-structured for the heady, full- and dark, yet nicely fruited as well, this one is, without question, bodied wine that it is. Nuance is not its forte, but richness most a big wine that is very much in step with its siblings. Indeed, it definitely is, and those on the hunt for prim and proper Zins may even be a tad less demanding of age than a few, and, if a need not apply. 1 T I $36.00 half-decade in the cellar would not be too much, it is going to come drinkable earlier on. O T A $45.00 ** jm JEFF COHN Isabel Sweetwater Springs Vineyard 2016 Russian River Valley. Full-on ripeness and generous aromas and flavors lift this deep, full-bodied, extracted wine into the top tiers but then run right up to the borders of excess, and only the pure, focused fruit holds it back from going over the line. Some are going to find this to be their favorite of the bunch for sheer ** jp JEFF COHN Iron Hill Vineyard 2016 size and volume, of which there is plenty here, while others may “Refined” is not a word often used in the review of Jeff Cohn’s opt for the slightly less outsized aspects of others amongst the so boldly crafted wines, and even here, the use of the term must Cohn Zinfandel universe. Fans of the style, rejoice. There are few be seen in relation to his other Zinfandels. Yet, this wine is, in fact holds barred here. 1 T A $45.00 the most refined of its maker’s remarkably deep, concentrated efforts, and it rises to the top for its distinctive fruitiness and its ** jm JEFF COHN Nun’s Canyon Vineyard 2016 great generosity. Make no mistake; it is a ripe wine with plenty Moon Mountain District. The highly concentrated fruit in this of heft, but it also displays a nice bit of polish and, its elevated wine keeps coming and coming from first sniff to lasting, slurpy alcohol level notwithstanding, it keeps fruit and balance first and aftertaste, and while there is a certain extra bit of fleshiness to foremost. Its red and black fruits character is well-supported by its texture, the wine is sure to please with savory foods ranging a light-medium layer of tannins that will allow it to achieve early from Italian sausage sautéed with peppers and onions to lamb drinkability in just a few years for those who like sturdy wines stew. And, despite cellaring being an option, the wine will stand yet retain ageworthiness over a half-decade or more. Sometimes, up to full-flavored dishes from day one. O T I $45.00 “less muscular” is simply okay. O T A $45.00 * jl JEFF COHN Rossi Ranch Vineyard Sonoma Valley 2016 ** jo JEFF COHN Orcio Cassata Vineyard Sonoma Vly 2016 As ripe as any of the Cohn Zins, this big boy combines a wealth Orcio is a small-lot experimentation with wine that has been of ripe blackberry fruit with hints of dried grapes and a bit of an fermented in amphora, an old-fashioned clay vessel whose use earthy, stony minerality in its aromas, and reprises that bold mix arguably produces clean, smoother, fruit-focused wines. And on the palate where ripeness leads to noticeable heat and some while this variant from the Cassata Vineyard is very much to our grabby tannins. Almost “chunky” in posture, and very much in liking, it does not rise above the more typical large-vessel results want of some cellar time, it asks for five years or more to resolve achieved with its vineyard mate. That said, this version seems to its astringency but its ripe fruit could come into full bloom with be also somewhat rounder and richer if not quite so tight and in far less patience. O T A $45.00 need of long-aging. It is not without tannin, but being a tad less hard in texture, it is the more inviting of the two and, in any * jl JEFF COHN Dealmaker California 2016 event, both are exceptional. O T A $50.00 80% Zinfandel; 20% Petite Sirah. If you find a better Zinfandel for $20, rush out and buy it, but, until then, rush out and grab ** jo JEFF COHN Cassata Vineyard Sonoma Valley 2016 this one. It is, in almost all ways, part and parcel of the mishpocha Fans of Jeff Cohn’s wines may well prefer this bottling to the Iron (look it up; it’s a good word to know) save for the fact that Cohn Hill effort because this one has the “swaggering, swashbuckling” has moderated its tannins and ripeness while not giving up much personality that is most often associated with the leaders of Mr. of his trademark depth and clear varietal focus. It is on the direct, Cohn’s parade. It is deep and extracted with dense blackberryish juicy, drink-me-now side yet will certainly deliver well if allowed fruit accented by notes of black plum, dark roasted coffee and to age for bit. And one could do worse than putting a supply of burnt chocolate all in service to its remarkable central fruit. That this tasty wine aside. It is a real steal in high quality Zin. it has sinew and a touch of latter palate heat is to be expected, GOOD VALUE 1 T I $20.00

45 * iu JEFF COHN The Imposter California 2016 44% Zinfandel; 22% Petite Sirah; 14% Syrah; 12% ; 5% Carignane; 2% Mourvèdre; 1% Viognier. The Cohn winery well-balanced bottling is not wanting in size, and it exhibits lots also makes highly rated , and this wine, while having Zin of particularly well-defined varietal fruit, first in the nose and then as its first component, has been made with a high percentage of again in its juicy, terrifically long-lasting flavors. It is succulent Rhône varieties, and acts more like something from that part of without being outwardly sweet, and its careful balance is as the world than a Zinfandel. No harm in that, of course, and other commendable as its marvelous fruity precision. Look for three to than the fact that this one is not really Zin-like, it is a wine that five years of positive growth here, but know that waiting is not will be right at home with well-seasoned hunks of beef or lamb likely to come easy. hot off the grill. 1 T I $35.00 GOOD VALUE 3 T I $34.00 * is JOULLIAN Sias Cuveé Carmel Valley 2014 * it LAVA VINE The Poor Ranch Mendocino 2015 5% Primitivo; 4% Petite Sirah; 3% Cabernet Sauvignon; 3% 13% Petite Sirah. There is more richness and fruity immediacy Merlot; 2% other. Elements of plums and berries merge with a about this wine than is shown by its Napa Valley companion, and touch of hardwoody spice in the nose here and continue without there is considerably more ripeness as well, yet it, too, is a firm missing a beat in the ample, tannin-framed flavors of this weighty, and structured wine that stays clear of excess and heat. What it obviously extracted Zin. The wine is slightly thick on the palate does not avoid is a fair bit of back-palate tannin, but though it and gets a bit tough in the late-going, but it manages to maintain inclines to slightly drying astringency just now, it ends with its fruity varietal bearings even as building astringency comes on enough intact fruit to argue successfully for three to five years of a bit strong at the finish. 1 T I $30.00 patience. O T A $45.00 * is LAVA VINE Napa Valley 2015 The more temperate of the two Lava Vine offerings with regard to ripeness and evident alcohol, the winery’s Napa Valley version is a firm, full-bodied Zinfandel that shows lots of fruity vibrancy but is, at this point, a little constrained when it comes to outgoing richness. It is underpinned by ample acidity that both narrows and contributes a noticeable tang to its finish, and, while always ** jn KRECK Teldeschi Vineyard Old Vine 2016 on very solid varietal footing, it is a wine that wants for the tactile Dry Creek Valley. Very rich, very ripe and very much showing smoothing and expansion that another two to four years of age the pedigree of what we believe is one of the top Zinfandel sites should bring. O B A $45.00 in the state, Kreck’s Old Vine bottling from the Teldeschi iu Vineyard is a lavish yet very deep wine that is rife with sweet * MAURITSON Dry Creek Valley 2016 berries, but it does not stop there and shows a fine sense of This nicely balanced, moderately full-bodied Zinfandel finds a layering with elements of minerals, creamy oak and highlights very comfortable place right in the middle of the varietal road of dusty soil spice making for a complex package that transcends with a steady fix on berry-like fruit and the tasteful presence of simple fruitiness. It is big but well-balanced, and its minor tag- sweet oak lending a boost in richness throughout. It is not quite end of heat is a small price to pay for this kind of richness and as deep and does not command the same degree of attention as fruity depth. O T I $42.00 the winery’s collection of Rockpile bottlings reviewed further on in this issue, but it is no shrinking violet by any means, and it gets * it KRECK Del Barba Vineyard Old Vine 2016 good marks for its construction, its unwavering focus and its fine Contra Costa County. Every bit as ripe and full-bodied as its fruity persistence. 1 B I $39.00 high-scoring companion from the Teldeschi Vineyard yet a bit it noncommittal in precise fruit and given to jammy, strawberry-like * McNAB Mendocino County 2016 sweetness before heat and slight dryness intrude and work to Here is a happy find that delivers lots of honest Zinfandel fruit truncate its finish, this wine earns easy recommendation by dint and does so with far more precision and polish than its modest of its considerable richness but wants for better focus and fruity price tag might lead one to believe. It is weighty and ripe without extension to rise in rank. O T I $42.00 being brash, and it is as well-structured as it is insistently fruity and focused. It is thoroughly tasty right now and will make for ir LAPIS LUNA 2017 delicious drinking in the near term, yet, thanks to its fine acid Clean and on Zinfandel’s berryish track but a wine without bells balance and deftly fit tannins, it has good potential for at least a and whistles, this direct offering teases with muted berries and a few years of positive growth. hint of earthy spice in the nose and finds a marginally more GOOD VALUE 1 T I $18.00 secure fruity footing in the mouth. If its frontal flavors drift to jl dryness, and it asks for a little more fruity flesh in the late going, it * MIKE & MOLLY HENDRY R.W. Moore Vineyard 2016 is still a useful, fairly priced wine that gets to nod for value. Coombsville. Coombsville is often spoken of as being a cooler GOOD VALUE 3 B D $15.00 enclave in Napa Valley, but there is little about this heady wine that suggests cool-climate origins, and it leads in the nose with ** jm LA STORIA Block 303 Alexander Valley 2016 effusively sweet, very obvious berrylike fruit that is reiterated with By Trentadue. 9% Petite Sirah; 2% Carignane; 1% . force in its generous, unabashedly ripe flavors. That fruit more While there are certainly bigger and bolder Zins to be had, this than holds its own against a one-two punch of tannin and heat

46 heavy-footed softness. It is a wine of a style, and not one to pour with milder foods, but those who like their Zins big and ripe will have no complaints. 3 T I $29.00 * is OPOLO Summit Creek Paso Robles 2017 Very ripe and noticeably hot it undeniably may be, but here again is a big, close-to-jammy Zin that does not bog down in syrupy softness and is surprisingly well-balanced for a wine of its style. It is decidedly varietal in focus with berryish fruit running its length, at the finish, and, if never a Zinfandel that will find favor with and the acidity that keeps it alive pushes slightly puckery tannins those who hold that less is more, it should leave those who, in to the fore at the finish. While it will benefit from another twelve fact, revel in more thoroughly satisfied. 1 T I $40.00 months in bottle, it will hold its own with big-flavored foods now. GOOD VALUE 3 T I $19.00 * iu MIRO Mounts Vineyard Reserve Dry Creek Valley 2016 Here is a wine that proves that Zinfandel can be big, ripe and well- balanced all at once, and even if it gives ground to a bit of last- minute heat, it remains fixed on very deep, blackberry fruit from front to back. It is solidly structured and quite long on the palate with good acidity working to stave off the softness that sometimes comes with a wine of its ample alcohol (15.6%), and, while not at all shy about showing its fruit now, it is built to keep and should improve for a few years. O T I $38.00 * jl PEACHY CANYON Mustard Creek 2016 * is MUELLER Old Vine Russian River Valley 2015 Adelaida District. Peachy Canyon’s many single-site Zinfandels Mueller’s Old Vine Zinfandel is a big, fully extracted effort that are not a succession of wines that are essentially the same, and, flirts with hints of milk chocolate and a wee bit of dried-grape of them all, this is the one that earns a nod as being the richest desiccation even as it keeps its sights steadily set on blackberry of the bunch. It smacks of boysenberries at one moment and a fruit throughout. It is a decidedly rich wine with plenty of varietal touch of dark coffee the next, and, while not overly beholden to authority, and, while arguably verging on being a bit overdone, it high ripeness, it does convey a little more substance and fruity says Zinfandel with a very confident voice. O T I $42.00 weight than most. Its well-integrated tannins afford a nice bit of tactile grip without becoming so prominent that lengthy aging is required, but it is structured in a way to repay dividends with a few years of patience. 1 T I $42.00 * iu PEACHY CANYON Vortex Paso Robles 2016 We like this wine’s sense of composed richness, and we like its ongoing message of very keen, optimally ripened, berry-like fruit, but what we like most is its almost pliant palatal feel and the way in which its acidity and nominal tannins provide structure * iu NOCETO The Original Grandpère Vineyard 2014 without being at all obvious. It is, in fact, so nicely assembled Amador County. Here is lively Zinfandel that departs from the that it can be easily enjoyed in the near term, but it is deceptively usual varietal model and draws back from aggressive ripeness in ageworthy and we can see glimmers of complexity that should favor of brighter, more buoyant fruit. Its carefully oaked aromas become more evident if it is allowed to sit quietly in the cellar for of red berries are followed by zesty, very like-minded flavors, and a few years. O T I $38.00 while mustering a good deal of fruity richness, the wine is always *it th spry and light on its feet. It is in no danger of drying or fading PEACHY CANYON 30 Anniversary Paso Robles 2016 any time soon, but it is drinking splendidly right now and will be 15% Syrah; 5% Grenache. Celebrating Peachy Canyon’s thirty especially welcome as a sympathetic partner to tomatoey pastas years of winemaking, this very full-bodied wine begins with dense of all kinds. O B D $38.00 aromas of dark fruit, chocolate and slightly peppery spice and follows suit on the palate with ripe and obviously extracted flavors * it OPOLO Forte Paso Robles 2016 that are presently bound up in undisguised tannin. It is ambitious All of the Opolo Zins check in with alcohols well over 15%, but, stuff, to be sure, but it is a bit of a brute and is too tough and as a group, they are quite well-balanced for wines of their very astringent to drink any time soon, and its recommendation comes ripe persuasion, and this effusive, big-bodied yet unexpectedly with the caveat that it be hidden away in the cellar and ignored zesty offering is the deepest and best structured of them all. It for no less than four or five years. O T A $95.00 does a good job at keeping its heat to a manageable minimum, * it and it is insistently bright and fruity with a strong, sweet berry PEACHY CANYON Willow 2016 bias running its length and the balance to age and improve for Willow Creek District. Quite unlike any of its mates, this one another three or four years. 1 T I $40.00 tightens up to the point of getting a bit hard on the palate after leading with a very rich, effusively fruity nose that gives rise to * is OPOLO Mountain Paso Robles 2017 expectations of a far more open wine. Simply put, it starts out As is the case with its siblings from Opolo, this is a Zinfandel little one way but ends in another, and it will need some time in which concerned with subtlety and constraint. It runs straightway to to soften and smooth. Age will unquestionably work in its favor, heady, late-harvest ripeness with a sweep of chocolate to its juicy yet it may never be quite as succulent and outgoing as its very and jammy, berry-like fruit, yet that fruit holds its ground against attractive aromas suggest. Hold off on pulling its for at least tannin and heat, and its balancing acidity keeps it away from a couple more years. 1 T A $44.00

47 dried-grape desiccation that more often than not comes with wines of its ilk. 1 T I $32.00 * is PEDRONCELLI Bushnell Vineyard Dry Creek Valley 2016 Undisguised ripeness is a step or two ahead of fruit here, yet the * is PEACHY CANYON D Block Paso Robles 2016 wine still smacks of sweet berries throughout and has the extract Sourced from a very small parcel in the winery’s Mustang Springs and richness to at least partially offset the plainly evident heat Vineyard that was planted in cooperation with UC Davis and ZAP that cannot be ignored at the finish. Although not out of control, as means by which to preserve 18 different heritage clones, the this is a big and fairly rugged Zinfandel that opts for potency over D Block bottling is a relatively mild-mannered offering that plays refinement, and, even with age, it will need pairing with hearty, to restraint rather than unbridled ripeness. It is lighter in style and boldly flavored foods. 1 T I $26.00 minimally tannic with a mild, but lingering, slightly spicy fruity * is PEDRONCELLI Mother Clone Dry Creek Valley 2016 presence, and it will serve best when partnered over the next Never a wine that aims for bombast or drama but one that gets two or three years with dishes that call for Zinfandels that steer it right in terms of defined Zinfandel fruit, Pedroncelli’s Mother clear of bluster and high extract. O B I $85.00 Clone bottling stays well within varietal bounds in both scent * is PEACHY CANYON Mustang Springs 2016 and taste. If arguably not as rich as either of its two winery mates, Adelaida District. Just a bit brighter and lighter in gait than its neither is it compromised by the obvious heat that appears in bigger, more substantial siblings and showing distinctive touches both, and its grippy, finishing tannins will be mitigated by service of dried flowers to its essential message of ripe red berries, this with food and/or another year or two on the cork. medium-full-bodied wine is dialed back in tannin and gets a lively GOOD VALUE 3 T I $19.00 lift from acidity. It gets a thumbs-up vote as a good candidate for pouring with tangy, tomato-sauced pasta dishes during the upcoming two or three years. 1 B I $42.00 * is PEACHY CANYON Westside Paso Robles 2016 10% Petite Sirah; 9% Alicante Bouschet. From its nicely focused, lightly spicy aromas of berries and cherries to its lively, mid-density flavors, Peachy Canyon’s Westside Zinfandel is a clean, easy-to- like, medium-full-bodied effort. It is slightly rounded in feel with comparatively muted tannins, and, while capable of keeping for several years, its accessible, no-nonsense fruitiness invites drinking * it POMAR JUCTION Reserve El Pomar District 2015 without need of further cellaring. 3 T D $26.00 Just as ripe as its year-younger companion, but showing a deeper and broader sense of essential, dark berry fruit and a boost in ir PEACHY CANYON Incredible Red California 2016 overall richness, Pomar Junction’s 2014 Reserve Zin is a hefty wine 10% Petite Sirah. Loosely suggestive of cherries, berries and a of ambitious reach, but it cares little for charm and instead aims touch of milk chocolate in the nose and essentially following suit for power in a potent, but patently unrefined way. It is sufficiently in its direct, easy-to-access fruity flavors, this slightly soft-edged, tannic and hot to bother those looking for refined Zins, yet it will mid-sized effort manages to quietly stay within varietal lines with never be accused of timidity and will satisfy folks that have no no interference from tannin. Its enjoyment requires no additional time for wimpy wines. 1 T I $43.50 age, and it is useful, fairly priced wine that will be welcome with all sorts of simple barbecued fare. * is POMAR JUNCTION El Pomar District 2015 GOOD VALUE 3 T D $15.00 Subtlety and nuance are not in this wine’s job description, but full-on ripeness and extract definitely are, and the wine makes iq PEACHY CANYON Especial Adelaida District 2016 no bones about being big, bold and close to over the top just as Despite putting a fairly good first foot forward with its intriguing it makes no apologies for its considerable substance. It is arguably and concentrated aromas of sweet red berries, dried plums and too hot and unquestionably a bit crude, but it successfully works slightly gingery spice, this somewhat confusing offering is ripe, to stay within varietal lines and will never be mistaken for anything taut and decidedly wiry all at once in the mouth without the fruit other than Zinfandel. 1 T I $31.50 to offset its stiffness, and its prospects for better with age are iq RABBIT RIDGE Westside Paso Robles 2016 remote. O T I $46.00 Although its soft and slightly jammy, blackberry-like aromas do not suggest that runaway ripeness will be an issue here, this taut and toughly textured, full-bodied wine does, in fact, race headlong to ripeness on the palate. It will not offend die-hard fans of big and blustery Zins, but it never quite finds the fruity richness needed to offset its coarseness or its all-too-obvious back-end heat. 1 T D $25.00 * it PEDRONCELLI Courage Faloni Vineyard 2016 ir REPLICA Pickpocket Red Wine California 2016 Dry Creek Valley. Bound to be viewed as being a bit over the 49% Zinfandel; 20% Petite Sirah; 14% Rubired; 8% ; top to many and just as likely to satisfy fans of unapologetically 7% Cabernet Sauvignon; 2% other. Even if composed of a varied ripe, downright hedonistic Zinfandels, this full-blown edition mix of grapes of which not quite half is Zinfandel, this outgoing shows a little more range and complexity than its style predicts, effort smacks strongly of the sweet berry of the variety from start and, even if getting fairly hot, tough and tannic in the latter- to finish. Fairly ripe and trimmed with palpable finishing heat to going, it is never less than well-fruited and avoids the raisiny, make the point, it is a rich wine without nuance and will get along

48xx

nicely with sausages simmered in a spicy tomato sauce over the and flavor and imparts a palpable degree of heat at the finish. next couple of years. 1 T I $20.00 There is, however, enough fruity extract to keep things pointed in the right direction, and, if hardly an elegant Zin, it claims a good sense of richness. 1 T I $42.00 ** jo ROCKPILE Cemetery Vineyard Rockpile 2016 By Mauritson. Like most members of its clan, Rockpile’s Cemetery Vineyard Zinfandel is an intense and optimally ripened working that holds nothing back, but it is incisively fruity every step of its lengthy way and accented throughout with the woodsy, slightly briary spice unique to the variety. It is full without being overly ** jm RIDGE Pagani Ranch Sonoma Valley 2016 weighty or hot and displays fine balance for a wine of its style 9% Petite Sirah; 3% Alicante Bouschet. There is no shortage of and girth, and, as very rich and accessibly juicy as it may be at “there” here, but it is presented in a balanced, polished and very the moment, it is guaranteed to be better yet once another three deeply fruited package that shows the winery’s unrivalled ability or four years have passed. 1 T I $51.00 to get the most out of Zinfandel while still staying entirely within ** jn ROCKPILE Westphall Ridge Vineyard Rockpile 2017 fairly classic varietal boundaries. The wine’s clear focus on black By Mauritson. Although certainly not exactly alike, the Rockpile berries with hints of red and its soft, rich woody trim are backed bunch exhibits a great deal in common as far as concentrated by early suppleness on entry and underlying tannins that bring fruit and well-managed ripeness go, and, while this one scores both backbone and aging potential to the wine. It is so well made on both of those counts, it inclines ever so slightly to black cherries that it could drink perfectly now with roasted lamb dishes while with a touch of clean, earthy spice and claims a voice all its own. also promising a more sophisticated side if allowed to rest in the It is so well-balanced that it seems less hefty that it really is, and, cellar for some three to five years. 3 B I $40.00 if it echoes its many siblings in being accessible and ageworthy * iu RIDGE Lytton Springs Dry Creek Valley 2016 at once, it is thoroughly inviting now and needs but a minimal 69% Zinfandel; 23% Petite Sirah; 6% Carignane; 2% Mataro wait before growing into its best. O T I $49.00 (Mourvèdre). The use of other grapes in this wine takes it slightly ** jm ROCKPILE Jack’s Cabin Vineyard Rockpile 2016 wide of the berryish mark, and, while that in and of itself is no By Mauritson. Long on dark, decidedly ripe blackberry fruit with crime in Zinfandel-dominated wines, it here brings a certain extra a slow-to-show, slightly savory mix of clean earth, leather and measure of toughness and a certain dry cast to the fruit. Still, it dusty spice becoming evident with a few swirls in the glass, this is ripe black fruit that makes up the heart of the wine both in the fully packed and solidly structured young wine follows with flavors nose and on the palate and allows it to sail past its light-medium that run parallel to the nose and is at present a little more sinewy tannins without so much as a “by your leave.” It will easily take than it is supple. Drying tannins rush up and work to blunt its up to a half-decade in the cellar. 3 T A $44.00 finish just now, and, with a more forceful voice than its mates, it * is RIDGE Ponzo Russian River Valley 2016 asks for a few extra years of age. 1 B A $47.00 Its mix of red and black fruits is well within Zinfandel territory, jl but this wine has shown more depth in previous outings, and, * ROCKPILE Pritchett Peaks Vineyard Rockpile 2016 while there is nothing amiss here, there is also only just enough By Mauritson. Drawing a bit back from heady ripeness and fixing right to garner a recommended rating. It never quite finds the instead on buoyant, mid-density fruit and never a wine that will central fruit needed for more and gets a tad short and dry while need overthinking about the right food match when dinnertime finishing on a slightly bitter, dark chocolate note. A few years in comes, this firmly built, medium-full-bodied Zin gives up a bit of bottle will help a bit. 3 T I $35.00 muscle and sinew and adopts a slightly more bouncy stance with seamlessly fit tannins and fine overall integration of its parts. It is ir ROBERT HALL Cavern Select Dusi Vineyard 2016 not, however, a light wine in any way, it simply is not quite as big Paso Robles. Ripeness figures prominently here and adds a streak as its siblings and it handily fills the niche of a well-measured and of chocolaty sweetness to this very full and slightly viscous wine’s eminently foodworthy wine that is destined to age by dint of principle themes of sweet berries and dried herbs in both aroma balance rather than brawn. 1 B I $49.00

*** jq ROCKPILE Rockpile Ridge Vineyard Rockpile 2016 By Mauritson. Taking a place at the head of the 2016 Rockpile family and a Zinfandel of altogether striking richness and fruity depth, this beautifully measured offering earns the nod as being the best of an eminently collectable lot owing to its range, its impeccable balance and its keen-as-can-be composition. It is never outsized despite being a wine of great concentration and substance, and it comes as close to being mannerly as a Zin of its size and ripeness can be when it is as young as this one is, but we have no doubts at all that it will become even more mannerly yet and lose nothing in the way of potency if allowed to quietly rest for another half-decade and perhaps more. Serious Zinfandel lovers are advised to take note. 1 T I $45.00

49 it will likely impress others as being too brawny and brash for its own good. Its toughness should ease somewhat with age, but we do not expect it to appreciably change its stripes with the passing of time. 1 T I $40.00

* it SADDLEBACK Old Vines Napa Valley 2016 * it ROCK WALL Pearl Hart Reserve 2015 On balance a big and decidedly rustic wine that makes no attempt Contra Costa County. Hard-to-ignore ripeness is central to this to hide its ripeness but one that does not go to the sweet and massive and mouthfilling Zinfandel, and the wine is sure to be overly alcoholic brink, the Saddleback Old Vine Zin is a meaty, seen by some as being too much of a good thing, yet for all of rough-hewn wine whose fruit somehow manages to fight off its its considerable size and undisguised trailing heat, it is rife with heat, and, even if fairly tannic and slightly raw in the latter going, blackberries and has a firm grasp on very deep fruit that never it boasts a good degree of extracted blackberry fruit and has a lets go. It will overpower all but the richest entrees and will find better-than-average chance of rounding with age. If rugged Zins a particularly welcome place as an accompaniment to flavorful, are your thing, it can be poured now, but the rest of us will be meal-ending cheeses. 1 T I $50.00 happier if it is left to sit for a few years. 1 T A $46.00 * is ROCK WALL Harris Kratka Vineyard 2016 Alexander Valley. A bit underplayed in its lightly dusty, berry- like aromas and a Zinfandel that successfully aims for balance rather than hard-charging ripeness once in the mouth, this effort musters a nicely sustained sense of fruit albeit without trading on mouthfilling extract. Its mannerly stance invites drinking with slightly lighter foods than its bolder, riper, big-bodied cousins commend, and it will age comfortably for several years by dint * jl SEAWOLF Love Vineyard Russian River Valley 2016 of its careful balance. 1 B I $35.00 Making an auspicious debut in the pages of CGCW, Seawolf has ir ROCK WALL Sven & Ole’s Reserve California 2015 come up with a rich, well-composed, carefully crafted Zin that goes right to the varietal point and shows a bit of layered Here is a ripe and full-bodied Zinfandel that goes two directions richness as it does with a trim touch of sweet oak to its raspberry- at once, for, while it leads with a good measure of plummy fruit, like fruit. It is bright, balanced and racy rather than a wine that it runs into formidable tannins that ultimately outpace that fruit. runs to brawny rusticity, and its finely joined fruity acidity will Age may well work in its favor, but it is a fairly tough customer keep it lively for years to come. at the moment that will need a bit of luck if it is to outgrow its O B I $42.00 blunting astringency. 1 T A $50.00

** jm SIMONCINI Saitone Ranch Vineyard Old Vine 2013 * it RUSACK Estate Ballard Canyon 2016 Russian River Valley. Giving lie to the notion that Zinfandel is 9% Petite Sirah. Its appellation may be better known for fine a wine best drunk while young, Simoncini’s five-year-old effort Syrah, but it appears that Ballard Canyon can make temperate, from the Saitone Ranch Vineyard is a ripe and weighty wine that, well-balanced Zinfandels of distinction, and, while this one may while starting to show some of the complexities of age, is still on not depend on big muscles and pushy ripeness, it is keenly fruity, the somewhat big and burly side of things with a liberal dose of with a good complement of fresh, well-ripened berries. It is young, tannin underlying its very deep and impressively extracted dark and it is still a bit tense and nervy, but its fruit effortlessly stays berry fruit. It can be enjoyed now providing that the meal is right the course even as its flavors tighten up and allow youthful tannins and one likes Zins with plenty of grip, but it will age effortlessly to make their mark. It is, however, sure to relax and will become for at least another five years and will progressively become a more welcoming in even a year or two hence, so our advice is little more polished as it does. O T I $65.00 to put aside any thoughts of hasty drinking and exercise some iu patience here. 1 B A $48.00 * SOBON ESTATE ReZerve Primitivo 2016 Amador County. Geared more to ripe cherries and plums rather ir RUSSELL FAMILY O.V.Z. Paso Robles 2016 than Zinfandel’s more typical blackberry traits and flirting with a 10% Petite Sirah. From its ripeness and tannin to its plainly evident bit of cola-like sweetness on the nose as well as in its ripe and heat, this is wine that holds nothing back, and, if unrepentant well-filled flavors, Sobon’s latest ReZerve Primitivo is a big, fully fans of powerhouse Zinfandels are bound to find it to their liking, ripe and weighty wine with whose generous fruit does a very

50

good job at buffering its ample alcohol. It is far more concerned prohibitively tough and sure to please fans of big Zinfandels in the with richness than refinement and will likely remain so with age, short term, a more polished future awaits once another three or but it concludes with just enough tannic grip to suggest that it four years have passed. 1 T I $30.00 will benefit from a few years of cellaring. 1 T I $24.00 * iu TERRA D’ORO Deaver Vineyard Amador County 2016 * it SOBON ESTATE Rocky Top Amador County 2016 This wine puts a good first foot forward with youthful, moderately Over the course of the last several years, Sobon Estate’s Rocky deep aromas of fairly vigorous, ripe berry fruit that are enriched Top Zin has established itself as a very reliable offering that gets by a tasteful touch of mildly creamy oak and follows with ample, it right in terms of structure and good definition without veering somewhat rustic Zinfandel flavors that convey plenty of extract too far in the direction of extravagant ripeness. The 2016 version and heft. It is a bit tough just now but is kept on course by its does all of that and is a balanced, moderately full-bodied wine very steady, well-defined fruit, and a couple of years in the cellar with a clear fix on varietal berries, and it has more than enough will see it through to its best. 1 T A $30.00 fruity substance to keep its nominal firming tannins in check. And, it it becomes doubly attractive at the price. * TERRA D’ORO Amador County 2016 GOOD VALUE 3 B I $18.00 6% Petite Sirah; 1% Teroldego. Ripe, rich in oak and boasting plenty of concentrated, well-focused varietal fruit from first sniff * is SOBON ESTATE ReZerve Amador County 2016 to finish, this impressively filled offering overachieves at the price A bit out of step with past ReZerve offerings insofar as, even if and ranks among the better Zinfandel buys to be found. It comes fully ripe, it is neither as big nor as brawny as has been the norm with enough finishing grip to encourage a few years of keeping, and runs to tangy red berries rather than the jammy extract that but, if a tad rustic as Amador versions are wont to be, it is never its 15.4% alcohol predicts. It is firmly balanced and buttressed so tannic as to warn off early drinking, especially when matched by comparatively temperate tannins, and it is on track to improve up with the likes of spicy grilled sausages or hearty pork stews. with two or three years of age. 1 T I $24.00 GOOD VALUE 3 T I $18.00 ir SOBON ESTATE Cougar Hill Amador County 2016 * is TERRA D’ORO SHR Field Blend Amador County 2016 A fair bit of woodsy, slightly briary spice serves as a counterpoint Inclining more to red berries than black and showing a good to fruit here, and, while the wine does have enough berry-like deal of youthful energy, this co-fermented blend of Zinfandel, character to say Zinfandel, its fruit never quite takes command Petite Sirah and Barbera is a slightly rounded, moderately fruity and gradually gives way to stick-to-your-teeth tannins before effort whose minimal tannins make for an accessible, comfortably closing with a slightly too-astringent finish. Hearty grilled meats balanced and easy-to-drink wine that does not demand much in rather than tomatoey pastas are its preferred partners, and a bit the way of additional age. O T I $35.00 more bottle time should help its youthful rigidity to ease. GOOD VALUE 1 B I $18.00 ir SOBON ESTATE Old Vine Amador County 2016 This juicy, sweetly fruited effort recalls the days when Zinfandel was an unchallenged price-point leader and, like a good many of its maker’s wines, delivers notable value. It is ripe and rounded and so very easy to taste in its youth without interference from tannin and overt heat. It is admittedly a bit simple, but it is tasty jl stuff whose enjoyment requires no waiting and will do yeoman * THREE Evangelho Vineyard Contra Costa County 2016 service with sundry barbecued pork recipes in the coming year. For those who consider high ripeness matched with concentrated GOOD VALUE 1 T D $14.00 fruit to be a virtue, this wine will be right smack up their alleys. Its generous but still youthfully direct berryish aromas favor the iq SPICY VINES Zin Master Dry Creek Valley 2015 black side of the spectrum with hints of raspberries also laid on, This bold, very big-bodied Zinfandel is undeniably expressive, but and its flavors, while similar in focus and depth, come with a full it is pushed to the limits by extreme ripeness and, while very rich, body and noticeable tannins for both grip and very appropriate runs into so much challenging coarseness and flaring heat that muscularity. It has the stuffing and energy to last for a half-dozen even the grape’s most devoted fans will find forgiveness difficult. years, but fans of the style may well enjoy it with savory beef or It is a powerhouse, but it is very crude, and waiting for beauty pork dishes in the nearer term. 1 T I $38.00 and grace to arrive with age is very likely to ultimately be an ir exercise in wasted patience. O T I $40.00 THREE Old Vines Contra Costa County 2016 The wine above uses its ripeness and substantial fruit content to * jl TERRA D’ORO Home Vineyard Amador County 2016 achieve fairly reasonable, concentrated, ripe-leaning balance. This This deep and convincing wine hones in on the variety’s classic wine has a harder time with that precarious mix of elements and blackberry fruit and, while fully ripe, avoids jammy excess as it turns rather more obviously to dried-grape character for its focus, does. It is full and fleshy in feel with a streak of firming tannins and, while it might make a decent partner to savory meats served sneaking up at the finish, but it sports plenty of fruity strength with equally savory sauces, its best use could well be as a mate and is a wine that looks to age extremely well. Although not to post-prandial cheeses. 1 T I $22.00

51 oak evident throughout, this moderately full-bodied Zin trades potency for articulate fruit and earns it spurs for precision more than bluster and raw power. It is a fairly classy look at the grape wherein all of its parts are seamlessly joined, and, if approachable in its youth, it is certain to age on the strength of its balance and * is UPSHOT Red Wine Blend Sonoma County 2016 careful composition. 1 B I $39.00 By Rodney Strong. 37% Zinfandel; 30% Malbec; 27% Merlot; * jl V. SATTUI Amador Ridge Vineyard 2016 3% ; 3% . If certainly not a wine that zeroes in on distinct Zinfandel character, this multi-varietal blend from Amador County. Ever so slightly dialed back in ripeness relative Rodney Strong is a clean, well-balanced offering that mixes various to its headier mates, this finely balanced bottling nonetheless red and black fruits with gentle oak spice and scattered touches delivers the goods when it comes to well-defined Zinfandel fruit of cocoa. It keeps both alcohol and tannin nicely in check and and shows a little more finesse and polish than a typical Sierra will provide useful drinking with any number of not-too-heavy Foothills effort. It is full-bodied, to be sure, yet it backs away from meat dishes for several years. 3 B I $28.00 sledgehammer potency and displays a consistent sense of careful integration from beginning to end. O B I $38.00 iq UVVAGIO Primitivo Lodi 2016 * jl V. SATTUI Dry Creek Valley 2016 7% Barbera. Fairly scaled back in terms of evident ripeness and fruity presence and not a wine that speaks with a bold varietal It may not claim single-site origin, but this is no simple appellation voice, this firm, slightly edgy bottling is fairly vague in focus and bottling, and, quite to the contrary, it shows a marked degree of finishes with a trailing streak of bitterness as its here-and-gone complexity to its lightly spicy aromas of ripe berries, minerals berry-like traits let go. 1 B D $24.00 and dusty soil that extends well into its like-minded flavors. While quite ripe, it is more fleshy than fat and sits easily on the palate with fine acidity lending welcome brightness and trim tannins contributing just the right bit of grip. Drink it now or later as you choose, but know that there is no hurry and that it will hold up nicely for a number of years. 1 T I $37.00

** jn V. SATTUI Gilsson Vineyard Old Vine 2016 Russian River Valley. It is hard to go wrong with any of the new V. Sattui Zins, and, in truth, picking a favorite is no easy task, but this amazingly rich offering from the Gilsson Vineyard gets the nod for its altogether extravagant display of very deep and constant fruit. It may run to ripeness but it never threatens with ** jn WONDERMENT Bacigalupi Vineyard Old Vine 2014 excess, and it is uncannily balanced for the fully packed wine that Russian River Valley. Proving that good Zinfandel can be as it is, and it closes with a terrifically long finish so rich in fruit that complex as it is fruity, Wonderment’s 2014 bottling from the its ample alcohol never becomes a problem. Save it for service well-regarded Bacigalupi Vineyard is a well-crafted working that with the richest entrees that call for a top-flight Zinfandel, and, is as polished as it is rich with a lovely appointment of creamy as outright delicious as it is in its youth, it is easy to predict years oak to its continuous blackberry fruit. At four years of age, it has of tasty drinking ahead. 1 T I $42.00 rounded into fine drinking shape, yet it has a sense of reserve ** jm V. SATTUI Crow Ridge Vineyard Ancient Vine 2016 that bodes well for the future and is balanced to reward upwards Russian River Valley. The second of two outstanding efforts of another half-decade of cellaring providing that one can resist from the Russian River Valley, V. Sattui’s Crow Ridge bottling is its considerable present appeals. O B I $40.00 an immense, absolutely mouthfilling Zin that holds nothing back. It is big, it is dense and it is ripe to the point of almost suggesting a bit of sweetness, but it never wanders away from the generous and marvelously deep fruit that is its first concern. Just as is the case with its equally rich partner above, it is a wine that will age well despite its wide-open richness. 1 T I $55.00 * jl V. SATTUI Quaglia Vineyard Ancient Vine 2016 Napa Valley. Lush and lavish fruit is the first message here, and the wine again shows no want of ripeness, yet, for all of its very iu considerable density and weight, it is indelibly varietal and solidly * ZIALENA Sonoma County 2014 built with a good complement of slightly grippy tannins. Even Generously appointed with fully ripe, distinctly blackberry-like though its upfront richness is bound to tempt immediate drinking, fruit and unmistakably varietal from beginning to end, this big- and we would not argue that it is not tasty now, but it is a Zin bodied effort is a stout and sturdy expression of the grape that that will only get better and, given the choice, we would opt for stops just short of being a bit overdone. It is one for dyed-in-the- a few years of waiting. 1 T I $49.00 wool fans of the grape who believe that good Zinfandel is, by necessity, a wine into which one can sink their teeth, but its * jl V. SATTUI Vittorio’s Vineyard Napa Valley 2016 brawnier traits do not come at the cost of plentiful fruit, and it Smelling and tasting of ripe berries and black cherries with hints will make memorable drinking when teamed with hearty, well- of root beer and cola just off to the side and a trim bit of sweet seasoned pork roasts and stews. 1 T I $36.00

52

We commented last summer that Sauvignon Blanc’s star appeared to be on the rise, and our latest installment of new offerings only adds to the sheen of a variety that is too often dismissed as being of secondary importance. The truth is that Sauvignon Blanc comes in a great many guises, all of which can be attractive and deserving of serious attention. Its mealtime versatility has long made it a welcome guest at our tables, and its ability to succeed in styles from herbal and refreshingly crisp to full, ripe and enriched with oak makes it a wine that will satisfy with dishes ranging from delicate seafoods to more substantial fare that typically invites service with Chardonnay. This month’s update includes fine versions that reflect every persuasion, and, although there are high achievers that deservedly come with higher prices, we are impressed, as always, with the considerable number of wines winning “Good Value” mention. The ranks of fine Sauvignon Blanc, it turns out, are filled with affordable offerings galore.

* it CASTORO Paso Robles 2017 5% Viognier; 5% Gewürztraminer. The addition of two aromatic white varieties in its cépage contributes a slight floral cast to the nose here, yet this patently varietal offering is principally focused on Sauvignon Blanc grassiness throughout. Its herbal traits, while constant, are never so strident as to get in the way of its ample, very accessible ripe melon fruit, and the wine is * is BLACKBIRD Dissonance Napa Valley 2017 moderately full in body and well-balanced at once. It ranks 15% Semillon. Here is a light and relatively low-keyed look at among the better buys in its genre and is well worth seeking out. Sauvignon Blanc that speaks to the variety’s herbal side in fairly GOOD VALUE 1 l I $16.00 hushed tones while hinting at sweet Asian pears and a distant suggestion of fresh ginger. It does not roar from the glass but is relatively restrained throughout and while briefly rounded on entry finds a welcome bit of firming acidity that wards off any suggestion of sweetness. 1 C D $32.00 * iu BRANDBORG Umpqua Valley 2016 Sweet and slightly juicy in scent with appealing top notes of fresh herbs overlying its well-stated mix of melons and mildly citrusy fruit, Brandborg’s is a spry, moderately rich Sauvignon Blanc that ** jn DAOU Adelaida District 2017 shows plenty of brightness and life to its lengthy, like-minded Those who resolutely hold that Sauvignon Blanc’s first duty is to flavors. It is charged with lots of fruity acidity, but never once errs be spry and intensely grassy are bound to find their convictions to wiry stiffness, and, while eminently tasty right now, it is tested here as this mouthfilling rendition heads off in a decidedly guaranteed to hold up quite well and grow with a bit with age. different direction with but a muted complement of herbs sitting GOOD VALUE 1 F I $20.00 behind its layered mix of optimally ripened, melon-like fruit and * is lovely, complementary oak. It is sizeable stuff as the variety goes, CALSTAR Russian River Valley 2017 but it is impeccably balanced without so much as a suggestion This very clean, briskly balanced middleweight is neither intensely of heaviness, and its deep and complete flavors display terrific varietal nor wildly fruity, yet it shows very good staying power on stamina and length. It is not the wine to bring to the table when the palate with a minerally underpinning to its constant, if looking for a crisp companion to fresh oysters, but richer fare from slightly restrained, lemon-tinged fruit. It is an energetic Sauvignon butter-poached lobster to savory salmon dishes will find few better Blanc that plays to youthful restraint without ever seeming thin foils bearing the varietal name. 1 l I $50.00 or at all underfilled, and it will fill the niche nicely as a palate- cleansing companion to any number of fleshy fish dishes. GOOD VALUE 1 F I $20.00 * it CANNONBALL Eleven Dry Creek Valley 2017 Very solidly built and yet a bit fuller and richer with a fine, fleshy palatal feel, the Cannonball Sauvignon Blanc boasts a good deal of fruit without being boisterously “fruity”and conveys a certain reserve that suggests that it will age into better. That is not to say that it is in any way lacking in up-front appeal, but it is balanced to keep and has the depth and fruity extension to confidently ** jn DRAGONETTE Vogelzang Vineyard 2016 argue for another year in the bottle. 3 l I $25.00 Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara. Like its equally rich cellarmate from the Grissini Family Vineyard, this is a Sauvignon Blanc of iq CARICA Moaveni Vineyard Bennett Valley 2017 considerable substance and size, and it, too, is a wine that is Although starting on a very positive note with rich, lightly herb- best set aside for pouring alongside fairly flavorful fare. It gets accented aromas of well-ripened melons and picking up a hint the nod of the two by dint of its very solid construction, and, of spiced apples with air, this weighty, slightly coarsely textured although already showing fine depth and range with juicy, stone youngster is compromised by bothersome bitterness that seems fruit at its heart and complexing touches of minerals, spice and unlikely to ease after its raggedness has diminished with a bit of herbs emerging throughout, it is balanced to keep and improve bottle time. O l I $29.00 for several more years. O l I $45.00

53 ** jm DRAGONETTE Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara 2017 Intensely grassy but very deep in defined fruit and a Sauvignon Blanc through and through, Dragonette’s appellation bottling is an expressive, very well-made wine long on very keen varietal character. It is medium-full-bodied with a slightly rounded palatal we strongly urge that it not be drunk down in haste. Experience feel, and, if energetic and very well-balanced, it is so rich and teaches that good Sauvignon Blanc can age wonderfully, and deeply filled that it asks for pairing with richer foods. Try it with this one has the look of a wine that will reward a half-decade or grilled salmon or liberally herbed roasted chicken, and, as tasty more of patience. 3 l A $50.00 as it is now, it can be counted on to provide several more years * it JOSEPH PHELPS St. Helena 2017 of delicious drinking. 1 l D $35.00 Subtle grassiness and a gentle touch of sweet oak are teamed * jl DRAGONETTE Grissini Family Vineyard 2016 with direct, lightly melon-like fruit in both the aromas and flavors of this easy going, clean-as-can-be Sauvignon Blanc, and, while Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara. This rich and comparatively the wine teases with a suggestion of sweetness that makes it a full-bodied working recalls Chardonnay in its volume and overall tasty quaff on its own, it is fit with trim acidity that keeps it light weight, and its concentration and ample fruity muscle tag it as on its feet and balanced to drink comfortably with a wide range Sauvignon Blanc that very much wants drinking with appropriately of lighter foods. full-flavored foods. It suggests ripe melons at one moment and 1 C D $40.00 a bit of creamy oak the next with flashes of sweet lemons peeking out here and there. While close to coating and near-unctuous in feel, it is not heavy-footed, but its fundamental lack of tactile angles and edges signals that it is ready to enjoy without need of further age. O l D $45.00 ir DRY CREEK VINEYARD The Mariner 2017 Dry Creek Valley. 88% Sauvignon Blanc; 12% Semillon. Very fresh yet a little tight on first nosing and fairly tight-fisted from first sniff to finish, this youthfully constrained, mid-density effort * it conveys a good sense of substance, but it is a bit ragged in feel JOULLIAN Family Reserve Carmel Valley 2017 and presently wants for polish and increased fruity presence. We 8% Semillon. Smelling of sweet lemons and blossoms with light are fairly certain that another year of age will be of real benefit background accents of fresh grass testifying to its variety yet here, and, while we are willing to bet on its future, we are not favoring ripeness and slightly viscous once in the mouth, this willing to bet big. 1 l I $35.00 medium-full-bodied working runs more to richness than to cleansing crispness and shows a wee touch of heat in the latter ir FETZER Echo Ridge California 2017 going. Although it would not be our first choice when lighter It is not uncommon for various inexpensive Fetzer bottlings to hit seafoods are on the night’s menu, it will do the trick in washing the mark for fine value, and this lively, well-defined, lighter-bodied down slightly richer fare and should match up particularly well offering is nothing short of an out-and-out bargain. It is hardly a with flavorful, braised chicken recipes. 1 C D $25.00 powerhouse, but it is distinctly varietal with kiwi-like fruit played ir against a quiet suggestion of fresh grass, and it is better balanced KATE ARNOLD California 2017 than a wine carrying a suggested retail price of ten dollars before Light and slightly sparing in fruity richness with just enough grass discount has any right to be. Kudos to Fetzer once again. and a touch of fennel in the background laying claim to being Sauvignon Blanc, this solid, slightly fleshy, medium-bodied wine GOOD VALUE 3 C D $10.00 possesses very good structure and picks up a little more positive * is GREEN & RED Catacula Vineyard Napa Valley 2016 fruit as its goes. It is, withal, a cleanly made, easy-to-taste effort Redolent of green tea and lemons in its fairly fresh and zesty that will fit in with a wide range of foods, and it becomes more aromas and reflecting the same mix of fruit and leafy herbs appealing yet when its modest price is revealed. along with a scant stony note in taste, this slightly rounded, GOOD VALUE 3 F D $15.00 medium-bodied offering hits the varietal mark without hesitation, and its winning combination of cleanliness, vitality and slight juiciness earns it easy recommendation. GOOD VALUE 1 l D $22.00 ** jo ILLUMINATION 51% Sonoma County 2017 49% Napa County. 7% Semillon. It would be all too easy to underestimate this wine as being fresh and nominally fruity on first nosing, but, given a few moments, its aromas expand and impress with their sense of composition and depth. So, too, on * jl KELLEHER Block 21 Oakville 2017 the palate, this one takes its time to reveal all that it has with Kelleher Sauvignon Blancs have never shied away from ripeness, nascent layering and a deepening seriousness showing with each and this bottling follows in the family tradition, but, if admittedly successive sip. It is a full, but tightly wound Sauvignon Blanc that, a bit warm at the finish, the wine is fully fleshed out with more more than most, speaks very convincingly of a need for time, and than enough fruity stuffing to buffer its last-minute heat. It makes

54

up in richness for what it may lack in finesse, and, rather than iq PUMA ROAD Monterey County 2017 being an exercise in simple ripeness, it shows a fair degree of 20% Semillon. Wholly devoid of Sauvignon Blanc’s tell-tale herb- complexity in its expression of melons, candied lemons, creamy and-grass aspects and focused instead on a mix of minerals and oak and understated herbaceousness. Needless to say, it is one white peaches in both scent and taste, this moderately full-bodied to reserve for meals big on flavor and should be overlooked with effort ups the ante a bit in terms of tactile richness and weight dainty dishes. 1 l I $34.00 before getting a bit chalky and hard at the end. It has substance ip LAPIS LUNA North Coast 2017 without offering a clear look at fruit, and, though it should hold up with age, there is no guarantee that fruit will find a significantly Vaguely melony and distantly suggestive of dried grasses on the more prominent role in the years ahead. nose but never wholly convincing as Sauvignon Blanc, this softly 1 l I $25.00 balanced bottling follows suit and pulls up short on the palate, ip ROCK WALL Sandy Bend Vineyard Lake County 2017 with dull, undefined flavors that come up wanting in brightness Among the lightest, least forceful Sauvignon Blancs in this month’s and bounce. 1 C D $15.00 survey, but a wine that is underfilled rather than one that lays claim to nuanced delicacy, this soft, slightly viscous effort is clean but watery at its heart, and it lacks the fundamental fruity core to survive late-arriving bitterness. 1 C D $18.00

* jl MERRY EDWARDS Russian River Valley 2017 Very much showing its maker’s penchant for riper, full-flavored Sauvignon Blancs and a wine that tends to melony sweetness while holding the variety’s grassy traits to a quiet minimum, the latest from Merry Edwards is a fairly mouthfilling version that * jl RUSACK Estate Ballard Canyon 2017 eschews delicacy in favor of juicy richness. It joins those offerings Bright, buoyant and juicy with a nicely measured streak of varietal that are more wine than lighter seafoods are up to comfortably herbaceousness in careful counterpoint to its continuous, mildly handling, but it will shine with spicy crab cakes or roasted chicken melony fruit, Rusack’s Sauvignon Blanc flirts with a scant touch finished with a slightly sweet glaze. 3 C D $36.00 of sweetness but is exceptionally well-balanced and never inclines ir to candied confection. It is wonderfully sustained on the palate MORGAN Monterey 2017 and enlivened by just the right amount of palate-cleansing acidity, Less fruity and more weedy in focus with a subtle stony bent to and it will make marvelous drinking with all sorts of chicken and its nose and of a very similar mind from entry to finish, this firmly sweet-leaning crab recipes over the next two or three years. balanced youngster edges to stiffness, at least for the nonce, and GOOD VALUE 1 C D $26.00 takes on a touch of chalkiness in the late going. Time is its ally, and another year in the bottle should allow it to relax, but it will * iu SADDLEBACK Oakville 2017 successfully work as a crisping companion to fattier fish dishes in With an engaging nose of well-ripened melons and sweet citrus the shorter term. 3 F I $18.00 redolent of fresh mandarins that is graced by highlights of green tea, this solidly built offering follows with fairly deep, generously fruited flavors that are both ripe and quite nicely balanced. The wine is arguably a touch coarse at the moment, but its sins are nothing more than those of extreme youth, and service with food in the near term or, better yet, a bit of bottle time are certain to bring the polish at which it now only reluctantly hints. GOOD VALUE O l I $24.00 ir SANTA BARBARA WINERY McGinley Vineyard 2017 * it NAVARRO Cuvée 128 2017 Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara. Fairly ripe and yet sparing in Light and lively right from the start and never a wine that goes both defined fruit and Sauvignon Blanc’s herbal aspects, this for big fruit and obvious ripeness, Navarro’s Cuvée 128 is a sleek moderately full-bodied wine conveys a good deal of substance and racy offering whose first concern is zesty freshness, but it and palatal weight, but its slightly viscous beginnings give way manages to keep its sights centered on very clean, mildly grassy, to a bit of coarseness and heat as it crosses the palate, and it slightly citrusy fruit at all times with the brisk balance to succeed ultimately wants a little more varietal confidence to break into famously as a refreshing foil to the likes of oysters on the half- recommended ranks. O l D $20.00 shell and lighter fish entrees of all sorts. ir GOOD VALUE 1 F D $19.50 SANTA BARBARA WINERY 2017 5% Riesling. Fairly withdrawn and reluctant to open on the nose ir POMAR JUNCTION El Pomar District 2016 and similarly less than forthcoming in the mouth with a certain Sweet on the nose, slightly sweet on the palate and wholly absent structural tightness that reinforces its impression of ungenerous of Sauvignon Blanc’s green and grassier traits, this cleanly made youth, this one hints at weedy herbaceousness, citrus and stones mid-sized wine tastes vaguely of mildly tropical fruit and lemons, without ever raising its voice and finishes on a slightly chalky note. but it trails away to a slightly hard and chalky finish. Service with It is not without fruit, but that fruit needs time to emerge, and food should help ease its way, but its fruity hesitance costs it any the wine stands to benefit from even as little as another six to chance for full one-star endorsement. 1 C D $21.00 twelve months of age. 3 F I $17.00

55 The Year in Review 2018

s usual, January is a time for reflection here at the Connoisseurs’ Guide as the joyous madness and harried times of the holiday season recede. As the new year begins, we look forward with optimism to what lies ahead, but we customarily find ourselves casting a lengthy look back at what the last one has meant in the endless evolution of fine California wines and offer our thoughts about the ways we have come and where the localA vinous world might be headed. To say that 2018 was fruitful – pun intended – is an understatement to say the least, and the succession of fine vintages begun in 2012 has continued without interruption, yet each harvest and flood of newly released wines bring plenty of food for thought.

The recently concluded vintage has winemakers up and down the coast happy, if vineyard reports are to be believed, and, while it is rare to hear growers and vintners complain once the harvest has come in, we see no reason to question their widespread cheer. Picking started a bit late, but there were no issues with rain or the heat spikes that complicated things the last couple of years, and, for the most part, grapes were allowed lengthy hang time in which to develop desired character. The 2018 crop was a large one, and, while we have heard from several vint- ners that the prices for grapes grown in some favored sites were down as a result, we are not holding our breaths that a long crop will neces- sarily translate into any decline in the cost of premium wine overall, given that yields were down in the previous year. Questions about “smoke taint” that surfaced after the devastating wild fires of 2017 are being quietly voiced again after summer fires first in Lake and Mendocino Counties and later in Butte County, the latter of which left a smoky pall over much of the Bay area for days and may have affected a few vine- yards late to pick, but answers to if and how much damage was done must wait until we see wines in bottle. We do not anticipate serious problems, but suspect that unwarranted sensationalism is afoot and expect to hear more on the topic in the months ahead.

As for finished wines that came our way this past year, there are only good things to report, but ongoing improvement should not be surpris- ing given the string of good harvests and the tenacity of winemakers always looking to improve on the craft. Vintners and growers, not to mention consumers, are smarter than ever, and that can only mean that the trajectory for fine West Coast wine will only continue to go up. The big three – Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – still command much-served attention, and the list of recommended offer- ings of each has steadily lengthened. While we still are not comfortable with the rampant grade inflation that seems to be the norm in much of the popular press, we must admit that the overall quality of wines coming our way has gotten better in recent years and that patently avoid- able efforts are far and few between.

Zinfandel and Syrah look to be emerging from their sustained doldrums, while Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier are well on their ways to proving that superlative, genuinely interesting does not begin and end with Chardonnay. Although far from household names, any number of less-heralded and underappreciated varieties such as Grenache, Tempranillo, Albariño, and have established a firm foothold in the state’s better winegrowing districts and old favorites like Barbera, , Riesling and Gewürztraminer are showing stubborn resilience and refusing to fade into anonymity as a new generation of discerning wine drinkers revels in the diversity afforded by California wines. Arguments about style persist but have become less vitriolic, and looking back, it is hard not to see how honest debate is healthy and bound to advance both the art and industry of fine wine.

Each year, of course, comes with low points as a well as high, and, on an especially sad note, we said goodbye to one of the state’s great cham- pions of Zinfandel, Kent Rosenblum, who unexpectedly passed away last September due to complications from knee surgery. Kent was a cherished friend with a first-rate palate and a knack for telling jokes who sat in on many of our tasting panels over the years, and he will be sorely missed. Gone, too, is Robert Haas, who founded Tablas Creek winery in Paso Robles, and Ulysses Valdez, grower par excellence, who tragically left us too soon at the age of 49, but, just as with Kent, their legacies are alive through sons and daughters who have become impor- tant members of California’s winemaking family.

The wine world has grown ever larger and more complicated, and the staggering number of wines from which to choose can be daunting, but such growth would not be possible without a concomitant increase in interest from consumers. The internet and social media have made for an extraordinary electronic symposium wherein wine lovers of all stripes, from the casual consumer to those passionate imbibers for whom things vinous is a way of life, can educate themselves and readily exchange opinions and ideas. Neither can be ignored by any of us who make, sell or write about wines, yet we like to think that there is a still room for experienced, professional guidance, and we would like to close with a word of appreciation for all of you who find some value in our monthly musings. Wine has been both our vocation and avocation for over forty years, and, if forty more might be asking for too much, we will remain doing that which we most love to do as long as we are able. We look forward to the coming year and many more after that. Thank you for your continuing readership.

56 Best Wines of the Year 2018 In far too many ways, time passes all too quickly, but when looking back on 2018 as we assemble our lists of candidates for “Best of the Year” hon- ors chosen from the thousands of wine reviewed in the pages of CGCW, we realize that the year’s journey has been a long one, indeed. The task of naming favorites is never an easy one, and, as usual, choosing our top picks requires some painful winnowing, but, here again Steve and Charlie humbly offer up their selections of those bottles that have left especially indelible memories in what has been an altogether remarkable year for California wines.

Winery of the Year: There are years when one producer stands out and makes our choice of “Winery of the Year” fairly easy, but, in 2018, the field was crowded with worthies, some for their mastery of one or two varieties, such as Blue Farm, Donum and Diamond Creek to name but a few, and others, like Darioush and last January’s honoree Frank Family for their across-the-board success with multiple grapes, all of which earn honorable mention. When read- ing through the reviews of the past twelve months, however, it is Kistler Vineyards in Sonoma County that wins our vote for its remarkable collection of eleven recommended Chardonnays and Pinots Noirs that netted three *** awards and a half-dozen ** ratings as well. Red Wine of the Year: JOSEPH PHELPS Insignia 2015 and DIAMOND CREEK Red Rock Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon showed exceptionally well this past year with a host of outstanding offerings checking in with *** ratings, but two peren- nial favorites found their ways to the very head of an extraordinarily accomplished class, and both the 2015 Joseph Phelps Insignia and the 2015 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace share the distinction of being the very best of the best. White Wine of the Year: KISTLER Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay 2015 There is never a shortage of fine California Chardonnays from which to choose, yet, in 2018, one stood out from all of the rest. Kistler impressed with nine standout Chardonnays in our July issue, and, while we would be more than happy to have any of them at our tables, the stunning version from Larry Hyde’s Carneros Vineyard is our highest scoring white wine of the year.

STEPHEN ELIOT’S Best of the *** Wines CHARLES OLKEN’S Best of the *** Wines BEEKEEPER Secret Stones Zinfandel 2015 BEEKEEPER Montecillo Zinfandel 2015 DIAMOND CREEK Red Rock Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 BLACKBIRD Paramour 2015 DONUM Angel Camp Pinot Noir 2015 BLUE FARM King Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015 JOSEPH PHELPS Insignia Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 DIAMOND CREEK Red Rock Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 KISTLER Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay 2015 JEFF COHN Buffalo Hill Syrah 2015 MERRY EDWARDS Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016 JOSEPH PHELPS Insignia Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 PAUL HOBBS Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 KISTLER Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay 2015 SCHRAMSBERG J. Schram Sparkling Wine 2009 L’Ermitage Rosé Sparkling Wine 2011 THREE STICKS Walala Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015 SAINTSBURY Lee Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016 TREFETHEN Halo Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 TREFETHEN Halo Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Best of the ** Wines Best of the ** Wines CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE Eroica Gold Riesling 2014 DAOU Mayote 2015 CORISON Helios Sunbasket Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2015 DuMOL Lia Viognier 2015 DAOU Sauvignon Blanc 2016 DuMOL Ryan Pinot Noir 2015 DRAGONETTE MJM Syrah 2014 JEFF COHN Iris Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine 2016 LIMERICK LANE Hail Mary Syrah 2015 KISTLER Durell Vineyard Chardonnay 2015 ROEDERER ESTATE L’Ermitage Brut Sparkling Wine 2012 LYNMAR Kanzler Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016 SEGHESIO Pagani Zinfandel 2015 MOONE-TSAI Hillside Blend 2015 V. SATTUI Quaglia Vineyard Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2015 STORYBOOK MOUNTAIN Estate Reserve Zinfandel 2014 WILLIAMS SELYEM Olivet Lane Pinot Noir 2016 WILLIAMS SELYEM Rochioli Riverblock Pinot Noir 2015 WONDERMENT Hyde Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2015 BLACKBIRD Arriviste Rosé 2017

57 Best Buys in the Market SPARKLING WINE The holiday season may have passed, but good sparkling wine is a staple throughout the year and we continue to be impressed by the extraordinary value afforded a good number of local Méthode Champenoise bottlings. Heading up January’s lengthy list of priceworthy bubblies, the lively, wonderfully refined * ROEDERER ESTATE Brut Ander- son Valley ($24.00) remains a perennial favorite, and the latest * SCHRAMSBERG Mirabelle Brut California ($29.00) similarly gets the nod for its careful crafting and yeasty precision. The rich and well-balanced * SCHARF- FENBERGER Brut Rosé Excellence Mendocino County ($26.00) is a substantial, eminently foodworthy effort, and the spry, slightly creamy * RACK & RIDDLE Blanc de Blancs North Coast ($20.00) is a fine example of the genre. GLORIA FERRER checks in with three enthusiastically recommended sparklers, a fruity * Blanc de Noirs Carneros ($22.00), a frothy and friendly * Blanc de Blancs Carneros ($22.00) and a crisp, finely bubbled * Brut Sonoma County ($22.00), and, not to be outdone, MUMM likewise wins endorsement for several different bottlings that deliver outstanding quality at the price, and its sleek and delicately toasty * Blanc de Blancs Napa County ($24.00) is joined by the juicy, fruit-forward * Brut Rosé Napa County ($24.00), the * Brut Prestige Napa County ($24.00) and the slightly sweet * Cuvée M Napa County ($24.00) in a most impressive quartet of affordable sparkers. Finally, the * KORBEL Natural Russian River Valley ($16.00) and its two 86-point cellarmates, the KORBEL Brut California ($14.00) and the KORBEL Brut Rosé California ($14.00) over-deliver at the price, and, just as is the case with most all of the well-made sparklers on this month’s roster of Best Buys, they are easier to like yet when found at a substantial discount as they sometimes are. CABERNET SAUVIGNON The demand for good Cabernet Sauvignon has not eased, and, if the top offerings can get very expensive, fine values still await price-conscious Cabernet lovers who are unwilling to wait for special occasions when indulging in their favorite wine. Among recent favorites that are both tasty and easy on seasonally strained budgets, the * SUMMERS Andriana’s Cuvée 82% Sonoma County/18% Napa County 2016 ($20.00) is a standout for its well-defined, very honest varietal fruit, while the nicely composed * INCONCEIVABLE After The Flood Columbia Valley 2014 ($25.00) and the energetically fruited * MERCER Horse Heaven Hills 2016 ($20.00) are a noteworthy pair from well worth seeking out. Inclining to ripeness and of a more succulent bent, the * KLINKER BRICK Lodi 2015 ($19.00) is certain to please, and, while falling just short of full one-star recommendation, the 86-point NOW PRESENTING Paso Robles 2016 ($18.00) is a weighty, but not-too-tannic offering that says Cabernet in a clear and constant voice.

SYRAH News Syrahs will be featured in March, but there are any number of surprisingly good efforts that still can be found, and several hit the mark for outstanding value. The ** BECKMEN Purisima Mountain Vineyard Ballard Canyon 2016 ($32.00) is a ripe and heady, generously filled Syrah that is bursting with explicit varietal spice, and, from Monterey County, the ** WRATH San Saba Vineyard Monterey 2016 ($39.00) and the ** WRATH KW Ranch Santa Lucia Highlands 2016 ($39.00) are breakthrough bottlings of amazing richness and fruity depth. At the lower end of the price scale, the carefully constructed * TERRE ROUGE Les Côtes de L’Ouest California 2015 ($22.00) continues its maker’s winning ways with Syrah, and both the juicy * KLINKER BRICK Farrah Lodi 2015 ($20.00) and the lively, 86-point WRITER’S BLOCK Lake County 2015 ($18.00) are bargains that should not be overlooked. Connoisseurs’ Series

Created by the California Wine Club exclusively for Connoisseurs’ ** BLACK KITE Pinot Noir Gap’s Crown Vineyard Sonoma Coast Guide readers, and featuring only our two-star and three-star 2015, ** SOJOURN CELLARS Pinot Noir Reuling Vineyard selections, the CONNOISSEURS’ SERIES wine-of-the month club Sonoma Coast 2016 and SOJOURN CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon makes hard to get wines available for you. Featured this month are: Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard Napa Valley 2015.

For more information about CONNOISSEURS’ SERIES, please call the California Wine Club at 1-800-777-4443 or visit www.cawineclub.com/connseries

58 January 2019 Index ZINFANDEL

iq ANCIENT PEAKS Sta Margarita Ranch 2016 iq GREEN & RED Chiles Mill Vineyard 2015 iq RABBIT RIDGE Westside Paso Robles 2016 * it ANDIS Original Grandpère Vineyard 2016 * iu GRGICH HILLS Napa Valley 2014 ir REPLICA Pickpocket Red Wine 2016 ir ANDIS Estate Friedlander Block 2016 * it HARNEY LANE Lizzy James Vineyard 2016 ** jm RIDGE Pagani Ranch 2016 iq ANDIS Amador County 2016 ** jp JEFF COHN Iron Hill Vineyard 2016 * iu RIDGE Lytton Springs 2016 * GV is ANGRY BUNCH Mendocino County 2015 ** jo JEFF COHN Orcio Cassata Vineyard 2016 * is RIDGE Ponzo 2016 ir ANGRY BUNCH Dry Creek Valley 2016 ** jo JEFF COHN Cassata Vineyard 2016 ir ROBERT HALL Cavern Select 2016 iq ANGRY BUNCH Lodi 2016 ** jn JEFF COHN Rinaldi Vineyard 2016 *** jq ROCKPILE Rockpile Ridge Vineyard 2016 *** js BEEKEEPER Montecillo Vineyard 2016 ** jm JEFF COHN St. Peter’s Church Vyd 2016 ** jo ROCKPILE Cemetery Vineyard 2016 * it BELLA GRACE Old Vine Amador Co 2016 ** jm JEFF COHN Sweetwater Springs Vyd 2016 ** jn ROCKPILE Westphall Ridge Vineyard 2017 * is BELLA GRACE Estate Amador Co 2016 ** jm JEFF COHN Nun’s Canyon Vineyard 2016 ** jm ROCKPILE Jack’s Cabin Vineyard 2016 ir BELLA GRACE Amador County 2016 * jl JEFF COHN Rossi Ranch Vineyard 2016 * jl ROCKPILE Pritchett Peaks Vineyard 2016 ** jm BENOVIA Sonoma County 2016 * GV jl JEFF COHN Dealmaker California 2016 * it ROCK WALL Pearl Hart Reserve 2015 * it BINZ Fox Creek Vineyard 2013 * iu JEFF COHN The Imposter 2016 * is ROCK WALL Harris Kratka Vineyard 2016 * is BINZ Shenandoah Valley 2016 * is JOULLIAN Sias Cuveé Carmel Valley 2014 ir ROCK WALL Sven & Ole’s Reserve 2015 * is BINZ Fox Creek Vineyard 2014 ** jn KRECK Teldeschi Vineyard Old Vine 2016 * it RUSACK Estate Ballard Canyon 2016 * is BINZ Esola Vineyards 2013 * it KRECK Del Barba Vineyard Old Vine 2016 ir RUSSELL FAMILY O.V.Z. Paso Robles 2016 ir BINZ Fox Creek Vineyard 2015 GV ir LAPIS LUNA North Coast 2017 * it SADDLEBACK Old Vines Napa Valley 2016 iq BINZ Shenandoah Valley 2015 ** jm LA STORIA Block 303 2016 * jl SEAWOLF Love Vineyard 2016 * iu CAROL SHELTON Karma Reserve 2015 * it LAVA VINE The Poor Ranch 2015 ** jm SIMONCINI Saitone Ranch Vineyard 2013 * iu CAROL SHELTON Cox Vineyard 2016 * is LAVA VINE Napa Valley 2015 * iu SOBON ESTATE ReZerve Primitivo 2016 * it CAROL SHELTON Rocky Reserve 2016 * iu MAURITSON Dry Creek Valley 2016 * GV it SOBON ESTATE Rocky Top 2016 * it CAROL SHELTON Peaceland Vineyard 2016 * GV it McNAB Mendocino County 2016 * is SOBON ESTATE ReZerve 2016 ir CAROL SHELTON Wild Thing 2016 * jl MIKE & MOLLY HENDRY R.W. Moore 2016 GV ir SOBON ESTATE Cougar Hill 2016 * GV it CASTORO Reserve Zinfusion 2015 * iu MIRO Mounts Vineyard Reserve 2016 GV ir SOBON ESTATE Old Vine Amador Co 2016 ir CIRQUE DU VIN Paso Robles 2016 * is MUELLER Old Vine Russian River Vly 2015 iq SPICY VINES Zin Master 2015 * jl DASHE Late Harvest 2016 * iu NOCETO The Original Grandpère Vyd 2014 * jl TERRA D’ORO Home Vineyard 2016 * it DASHE Todd Brothers Ranch 2016 * it OPOLO Forte Paso Robles 2016 * iu TERRA D’ORO Deaver Vineyard 2016 * is DASHE The Comet Sonoma County 2016 * is OPOLO Mountain Paso Robles 2017 * GV it TERRA D’ORO Amador County 2016 * is DASHE Reserve Dry Creek Valley 2016 * GV is OPOLO Summit Creek Paso Robles 2017 * is TERRA D’ORO SHR Field Blend 2016 ir DASHE Florence Vineyard 2016 * jl PEACHY CANYON Mustard Creek 2016 * jl THREE Evangelho Vineyard 2016 * is DAY El Diablo Vineyard 2016 * iu PEACHY CANYON Vortex 2016 ir THREE Old Vines Contra Costa Co 2016 * is DAY Grist Vineyard 2016 * it PEACHY CANYON 30th Anniversary 2016 * is UPSHOT Red Wine Blend Sonoma Co 2016 * is DAY Sonoma County 2016 * it PEACHY CANYON Willow 2016 iq UVVAGIO Primitivo Lodi 2016 * jl DRY CREEK VYD Wallace Ranch 2016 * is PEACHY CANYON D Block 2016 ** jn V. SATTUI Gilsson Vineyard 2016 * jl DRY CREEK VYD Old Vine 2016 * is PEACHY CANYON Mustang Springs 2016 ** jm V. SATTUI Crow Ridge Vineyard 2016 * iu DRY CREEK VINEYARD Old Vine 2015 * is PEACHY CANYON Westside 2016 * jl V. SATTUI Quaglia Vineyard 2016 * it DRY CREEK VYD Four Clones 2016 GV ir PEACHY CANYON Incredible Red 2016 * jl V. SATTUI Vittorio’s Vineyard 2016 * it DRY CREEK VYD Spencer’s Hill Vyd 2015 iq PEACHY CANYON Especial 2016 * jl V. SATTUI Amador Ridge Vineyard 2016 * jl EASTON Estate Shenandoah Valley 2015 * it PEDRONCELLI Courage Faloni Vyd 2016 * jl V. SATTUI Dry Creek Valley 2016 * it EASTON Old Vine Rinaldi Vineyard 2015 * is PEDRONCELLI Bushnell Vineyard 2016 ** jn WONDERMENT Bacigalupi Vineyard 2014 * GV it EASTON Fiddletown 2015 * GV is PEDRONCELLI Mother Clone 2016 * iu ZIALENA Sonoma County 2014 * is GREEN & RED Tip Top Vineyard 2014 * it POMAR JUCTION Reserve 2015 ir GREEN & RED Chiles Canyon Vyds 2016 * is POMAR JUNCTION El Pomar District 2015 SAUVIGNON BLANC

* is BLACKBIRD Dissonance Napa Valley 2017 ir DRY CREEK VINEYARD The Mariner 2017 ir MORGAN Monterey 2017 * GV iu BRANDBORG Umpqua Valley 2016 GV ir FETZER Echo Ridge California 2017 * GV it NAVARRO Cuvée 128 Anderson Valley 2017 * GV is CALSTAR Russian River Valley 2017 * GV is GREEN & RED Catacula Vineyard 2016 ir POMAR JUNCTION El Pomar District 2016 * it CANNONBALL Eleven Dry Creek Valley 2017 ** jo ILLUMINATION 51% Sonoma County 2017 iq PUMA ROAD Monterey County 2017 iq CARICA Moaveni Vineyard 2017 * it JOSEPH PHELPS St. Helena 2017 ip ROCK WALL Sandy Bend Vineyard 2017 * GV it CASTORO Paso Robles 2017 * it JOULLIAN Family Reserve Carmel Valley 2017 * GV jl RUSACK Estate Ballard Canyon 2017 ** jn DAOU Adelaida District 2017 GV ir KATE ARNOLD California 2017 * GV iu SADDLEBACK Oakville 2017 ** jn DRAGONETTE Vogelzang Vineyard 2016 * jl KELLEHER Block 21 Oakville 2017 ir SANTA BARBARA WNY McGinley Vyd 2017 ** jm DRAGONETTE Happy Canyon 2017 ip LAPIS LUNA North Coast 2017 ir SANTA BARBARA WNY Santa Ynez Vly 2017 * jl DRAGONETTE Grissini Family Vineyard 2016 * jl MERRY EDWARDS Russian River Valley 2017

Write to us at P.O. Box 8, Pinole, California, 94564. Our phone is 510-417-2833. Email: [email protected] Web: www.cgcw.com 59