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542 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Ho Chi Minh Trail 291, 439 Bac Lieu 374-5 Khe Sanh, siege of 161 Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary 375-6 landmines 158, 506 Bach Ma National Park 178-9, 495 Long Tan 263 Bahnar people 462 memorials 158, 217, 219, 224, 263, Bai Tu Long Bay 108-10, 495, 95 285, 351, 404 Ban Don 289-90 military sites 158-61, 305, 440-1 Ban Gioc Waterfall 115 museums 92, 305, 308, 367-8 Banh It Cham Towers 223 My Lai Massacre 217, 218 Banteay Srei 424 Nixon Doctrine 442 Bao Dai’s Summer Palace 273 Tet Offensive 440-1 Bao Loc 283 Vinh Moc Tunnels 158, 160 Baphuon 422 A An Bang Beach 20, 209 bargaining 504 accommodation 500-1, see also An Thoi Islands 385-6 bars individual locations Angkor Thom 418-23, 420-1 Hanoi 71-3 language 529 Angkor Wat 16, 418, 420-21, 419, Ho Chi Minh City 331-4 activities 30-5 17, 420-21 Hoi An 204-5 bird-watching 378, 407, 494, 495 Ankroët Falls 275 Hue 172 cycling 31-2, 102, 361, 515 animals 493 Nha Trang 240-1 diving 34, 198, 210, 234-5, bats 373 Siem Reap 415 266-7, 386 bites & stings 527 Bat Trang 84 golf 35, 55, 86, 248-9, 277, 319 crocodiles 350, 403, 494 bathrooms 507 kayaking 34, 96, 103, 386 elephants 284, 289, 290 Bau Truc Village 245 kitesurfing 32, 249-50, 33 endangered species 89, 153, Bayon 419, 422, 420-1 265, 284, 288, 345, 494-5 motorbiking 20, 29, 32, 34, 139, beaches 22 282, 513, 517-8, 520 gibbons 285 An Bang Beach 20, 209 rock climbing 35, 102-3, 104 jellyfish 506, 527 Ba Dong Beach 363 sailing 34, 103, 250 monkeys 148, 284, 349-50, 494 Bai Bau Beach 224 snorkelling 34, 198, 266-7, 386 turtles 47, 148, 263-4, 265, 494 Bai Dai (Cam Ranh) 243 surfing 32, 35, 250 ao dai 336 Bai Dai (Van Don) 108 trekking 22, 31, 103, 267 archaeological sites, see Cham Ca Na 247 white-water rafting 34, 277 structures, Khmer structures Cat Ba Island 101-2 windsurfing 32 architecture 455, 467-76 Cham Islands 210 addresses 323 art deco 470 China Beach 189-90 Agent Orange 428, 497-8 French colonial 22, 470, 470-1 Con Dao Islands 265-6 air pollution 526 Hang Nga Crazy House 272 Cua Dai Beach 208-9 air travel 511, 515 Hoi An 196 Cua Lo Beach 151 airfares 511, 516 pagodas & temples 452, 472-5, 472-5 Dai Lanh Beach 225 routes 512 Doc Let Beach 226-7 Soviet influence 374, 476 airports Duong Beach 395 stilt houses 468, 468-9 Hanoi 82 Hai Pai Beach 101 area codes 19 Ho Chi Minh City 341 Ho Coc Beach 257 Siem Reap 416 art galleries, see museums & galleries Ho Tram Beach 257 Ako Dhong Village 286 arts 426, 453-6, see also Lang Co Beach 179-80 alcohol 489 individual arts Long Beach 384-5 American War 439-43 assembly halls (Hoi An) 194, 196, 197 Long Hai 258 Agent Orange 428, 497-8 ATMs 504 Minh Chau Beach 109 books 440, 443 Mui Nai 395 casualties 440, 443 Mui Ne Beach 248, 248 Cu Chi Tunnels 343-6 B My An Beach 189 environmental effects 498 Ba Be National Park 89-91, 495, 15 My Khe Beach (Danang) 189 films 426 Ba Chuc 396-400 My Khe Beach (Son My) 217-18 Gulf of Tonkin Incident 439 Ba Dong Beach 363 Nam O Beach 187 hill tribes 458 Ba Ho Falls 243 Nha Trang 227-8 Ba Le Well 197 Ninh Chu Beach 246 Ba Na Hill Station 180-1 Non Nuoc Beach 189 000 Map pages Ba Vi National Park 85 Phu Quoc Island 384-5 000 Photo pages Bac Ha 133-7, 466, 134 Queen’s Beach 220 543 Quy Hoa Beach 220 hire 517, 519 Thap Doi Cham Towers 219 Quy Nhon 219 insurance 517 Tra Kieu (Simhapura) 213 Thuan An Beach 177 road rules 518 Chau Doc 397-400, 398 Tien Sa Beach 187 Cat Ba Island 99-108, 495, 95, 102 Chien Dan 213 Vung Tau 259 beaches 101-2 children, travel with 59, 320, 501 beer, see bia hoi Cat Ba National Park 101, 495 China Beach 189-90 Ben Hai 160 Cat Ba Town 100, 102 Chinese rule 89, 430-1 Ben Thanh Market 336 Cat Cat Village 126 Cho Moi 404 INDEX INDEX Ben Tre 358-60, 359 Cat Tien National Park 20, 283-5, Chong Kneas 417 Beng Mealea 424 495, 12 Christianity 452 bia hoi 14, 71, 489 cathedrals, see churches & Christmas 25 B-C bicycle travel, see cycling cathedrals Chua Bai Dinh 20, 146 Binh Chau Hot Springs 256-7 Cau Castle 383-4 Chua Co 363 Binh Tay Market 312 caves churches & cathedrals bird sanctuaries 363, 373, 375-6 Halong Bay 96 Cha Tam Church 314-15 bird’s-nest soup 239 Hang Pac Bo 114-15 Cho Quan Church 315 birdwatching 378, 407, 494, 495 Hang Puong 90-89 Danang Cathedral 182-3 bites & stings 527 Hang Son Doong 154 Du Sinh Church 274 Bitexco Financial Tower 20, 303, 468 Hang Trung Trang 101 Immaculate Conception boat travel 231, 372, 381, 386, 513, Hospital Cave 102 Cathedral 294 515, 516 Lang Son 111 Long Xuyen Catholic Church 403-4 books 164, 426, 447, 455, 523-4 Mua Cave 145 Mountain Church 213 American War 440, 443 Nguom Ngao Cave 115 Nha Trang Cathedral 229 food 486 Paradise Cave 20, 152-3 Notre Dame Cathedral 307 health 423-4 Phong Nha Cave 152, 8 Phat Diem Cathedral 149 border crossings 511-12, 514 Trang An Grottoes 146-7 Queen of the Rosary Cathedral 91 Cambodia 293, 346, 396, 397, Van Thong Cave 188 St Joseph Cathedral 49 401, 513 cell phones 19, 507 Tam Toa Church 154 China 80, 110, 113, 132, 513, 515 Central Highlands 38, 270-96 Tra Kieu Church 213 Laos 124, 147, 150, 152, 163, 296, 513 accommodation 270 cinema, see films Buddha’s Birth, Enlightenment & climate 270 citadels Death 24 food 270 Co Loa Citadel 85-6 Buddhism 449-50, 451, 452, 474, highlights 271, 271 Dong Hoi Citadel 154 see also pagodas, temples travel seasons 270 Hue Citadel 164, 11 Buon Ma Thuot 285-8, 287 Central Vietnam 38, 156-213 Mac Dynasty Citadel 111 bus travel 513, 515, 516 accommodation 156 Thanh Citadel 243 business hours 501 climate 156 Vinh Citadel 149 food 156 climate 18, see also individual C highlights 157, 157 regions climate change 497 Ca Mau 376-8, 377 travel seasons 156, 191 Coconut Monk 358 Ca Na 247 Cha Ban 223-4 coffee 23, 67, 286, 337, 497 Cai Be Floating Market 365 Cham Islands 210 Cold War 112 Cai Rang Floating Market 372 Cham people 211, 223, 245, 430, , communism 426, 446, see Cai Rong 108 449 474 , also Ho Chi Minh Cam Kim Island 207-8 museums 181 213 , Con Dao Islands 11, 263-9, 266, 10 Cam Ranh Harbour 243 new year celebrations 25 245 Con Dao National Park 265, 266, 495 Cambodia 410-24 Cham structures Con Son Island 263 Camp Carroll 160 Banh It Cham Towers 223 Con Thien Firebase 159-60 Can Gio 349-51 Chien Dan 213 Duong Long Cham Towers 224 Confucianism 451 Can Tho 366-71, 368 My Son 211-13, 212, 474-5 Cong people 461 Cao Bang 112-14, 466, 114 Nhan Cham Tower 225 conservation 494-7 Cao Daism 348, 451, 452 Po Klong Garai Cham Towers consulates 502-3 Cao Dai Holy See 346-7 244-5, 474 courses temples 181, 376, 379 Po Nagar Cham Towers 228-9, cooking 57, 199, 248, 319, Cao Lanh 404-7, 406 13, 475 320, 491 car travel 513, 517-18 Po Ro Me Cham Tower 245 language 58, 320, 503-4 driving licences 517 Po Shanu Cham Towers 248 credit cards 504 hazards 518 544 Crémaillère Railway Station 273 Dzao people 10, 462, 460, 463, lizards 247 crocodiles 350, 403, 494 464, 466 noodles 480, 482, 487-8, Cu Chi Tunnels 343-6 language 534 481, 483 Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Station 345 northern cuisine 480-1 Cua Dai Beach 208-9 E nuoc mam 384, 486 Cuc Phuong National Park 147-8, 495 Easy Riders 282 pho 325, 480, 481 culture 447-56, 490-1 ecolodges 105, 127, 128, 284 regional specialities 477-84 currency 18 economy 426, 427, 428 rice 405, 487 INDEX INDEX customs regulations 502 Ede people 286, 462 rice-paper rolls 488, 477 cycling 31-2, 102, 361, 515 electricity 502 southern cuisine 484 cyclos 516, 519 Elephant Falls 276 street food 65, 279, 490 C-H elephants 284, 289, 290 sweets 489 D embassies 502-3 table etiquette 491 Dai Lanh Beach 225 emergencies 19 vegetarian & vegan travellers 490 Dai Nam Theme Park 350 language 531-2 Forbidden Purple City 165 Dakrong Bridge 160 endangered species 89, 153, 265, Fort Cannon 101 Dalat 272-83, 274, 16 284, 288, 345, 494-5 Franco–Viet Minh War 91, 437-8 Dambri Falls 283 environment 355, 400, 492-8 highlights 493 Dien Bien Phu, siege of 123, 437 Danang 20, 181-7, 188 national parks 495-6 memorials 122 dance 415-16, 454 threats 492, 496-8 French rule 91, 304, 434 dangers 158, 209, 241, 255, fruit 389, 427 see also safety ethnic minorities, see hill tribes Dao Tien Endangered Primate etiquette 447, 450, 454, 491, 505 Species Centre 284 exchange rates 19 G Dat Mui (Cape Ca Mau) 378 exports 497 galleries, see museums & galleries Datanla Falls 275 gay travellers 503 deforestation 496 F Hanoi 74 Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) 158-61, facts 427, 428, 440 Ho Chi Minh City 335 440, 159 Fansipan 127 geology 493, 494 dengue fever 524 feng shui 448 Giac Lam Pagoda 316-17 diarrhoea 526 festivals 23-5, 59, 165, 199, 363, 374 golf 35 Dien Bien Phu 121-4, 122 Buddha’s Birth, Enlightenment golf courses Franco–Viet Minh War 437 & Death 24 Dalat 277 siege of 123, 437 Cham New Year (Kate) 25, 245 Hanoi 55 Diep Dong Nguyen House 197 Christmas 25 Ho Chi Minh City 319 disabilities, travellers with 507-8 Oc Bom Boc Festival 25, 363, 374 Mui Ne 248-9 diving 34, 198, 210, 234-5, Tet 23, 451 Tam Dao 86 266-7, 386 films 423, 426, 442, 453, 454, 455 Gougah Falls 275 responsible diving 235 fish farming 400 Great Wall of Vietnam 20, 216 DMZ, see Demilitarised Zone fish sauce 384, 486 guesthouses 500, see also Doc Let Beach 226-7 floating markets 365, 369, 371-2, 15 accommodation doctors, see medical services floating restaurants 106 Dong Ha 161-3 floating villages 96, 146, 397, H Dong Hoi 153-5, 155 417, 468-9 Ha Giang 137-8 Dong Ky 84 food 21, 485-91, 503, 8, see also Ha Tien 392-5, 393 Dong Son era 430 individual locations haggling 504 Dragon Island 358 baguettes 484, 488, 484 Hai Van Pass 180 Dray Nur Falls 290 bird’s-nest soup 239 Haiphong