Florence & Tuscany 8
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Florence & Tuscany Northwestern Tuscany (p120) Florence ^# (p56) Eastern Tuscany (p251) Central Coast & Elba Siena & Central (p162) Tuscany (p187) Southern Tuscany Elba (p232) THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Virginia Maxwell, Nicola Williams PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to FLORENCE . 56 Bolgheri & Around . 171. Florence & Tuscany . 4 Castagneto Carducci . 172 Florence & Tuscany Map . .6 NORTHWESTERN San Vincenzo . 172 Florence & Tuscany’s TUSCANY . 120 Suvereto . 172 Top 18 . .8 Golfo di Baratti . 173 Pisa . 124 Elba & the Need to Know . .18 Lucca . 134 Tuscan Archipelago . 176 First Time Pistoia . 144 Elba . 176 Florence & Tuscany . 20 San Miniato & Gorgona, Capraia, Around . 146 What’s New . 22 Pianosa & Giglio . 186 The Apuane Alps & If You Like . 23 Garfagnana . 148 SIENA & CENTRAL Month by Month . 26 Castelnuovo di Garfagnana . 148 TUSCANY . .187 Itineraries . 29 Barga . 151 Siena . 189 Staying in Tuscany . 33 Bagni di Lucca . 152 Chianti . 202 Carrara . 153 Eat & Drink Greve in Chianti . .205 Like a Local . 36 The Versilian Coast . 155 Around Greve Pietrasanta . 156 in Chianti . .208 Outdoor Experiences . 44 Viareggio . 157 Castellina in Chianti . .209 Travel with Children . 50 The Lunigiana . 158 Radda in Chianti . 210 Regions at a Glance . 53 Pontremoli . 158 Around Radda in Chianti . 210 CENTRAL COAST & Val d’Elsa . .211 ELBA . 162 San Gimignano . 211 Volterra . 216 Livorno . 166 Val d’Orcia . 222 The Etruscan Coast . 170 Montalcino . 222 Castiglioncello . 170 DARRELL GULIN /GETTY IMAGES © MEDIOIMAGES / GETTY IMAGES © FLORENCE P56 TUSCANY P120 Contents UNDERSTAND Around Montalcino . 224 EASTERN Florence & Tuscany Pienza . 224 TUSCANY . 251 Today . 272 Monticchiello . 227 Arezzo . 253 History . 274 Val di Chiana . 227 Sansepolcro . 259 The Tuscan Montepulciano . 227 The Casentino . 263 Way of Life . 286 Poppi . .263 The Tuscan Table . 290 SOUTHERN Parco Nazionale delle Tuscany on TUSCANY . 232 Foreste Casentinesi, Monte Falterona e Page & Screen . 297 The Alta Maremma . 236 Campigna . .265 Art & Architecture . 302 Massa Marittima . .236 Val di Chiana . 267 Vetulonia & Around . 241 Castiglion Fiorentino . 267 Città del Tufa . 242 Cortona . 267 Pitigliano . 242 Sovana . .244 Around Sovana . 245 SURVIVAL Sorano . 245 GUIDE The Bassa Maremma . 246 Grosseto . .246 Around Grosseto . .248 Directory A–Z . 320 Parco Regionale Transport . 327 della Maremma . .248 Orbetello . .249 Language . 332 Monte Argentario . .249 Index . 341 Map Legend . .351 SPECIAL FEATURES 310 311 Eat & Drink Medieval DE AGOSTINI / GETTY IMAGES © Tuscan Artists Plenty of big names jostle for precedence in the pantheon of Tuscan artists, so narrowing any list down to a ‘Top Five’ is a near impossible task. Here’s our best Like a Local . 36 Masterpieces . 220 attempt. Michelangelo Buonarroti (1475–1564) The quintessential Renaissance man. A painter, sculptor and architect with more masterpieces to his credit than any other artist either before or since. In Florence, view his David in the Galleria Outdoor Experiences . 44 Magnificent dell’Accademia and his Tondo Doni (Holy Family) in the Uffizi. Sandro Botticelli (c 1444–1510) His Renaissance beauties charmed commissions out of the Medicis and continue to exert their siren call on the Monasteries . 260 millions who visit the Uffizi Gallery each year. Don’t miss his Primavera and Birth of Venus. 3D Uffizi Illustration . 66 Giotto di Bondone 1. Fra’ Angelico’s Annunciation 2. Botticelli’s Primavera (c 1266–1337) SUPERSTOCK / GETTY IMAGES © 3. Di Buoninsegna’s Madonna with Child and Siz Angels Giotto kick-started the Renaissance with action-packed frescoes in which each character pinpoints emotions with facial expressions and poses that need no DEA / G. DAGLI ORTI GETTY IMAGES © Tuscan Artists . 310 translation. Make the pilgrimage to Assisi to see his Life of St Francis fresco cycle. Fra’ Angelico (c 1395–1455) Florence for Shoppers . .114 Few artists are saints – they’re far more likely to be sinners. One of the exceptions was Il Beato Angelico, who was canonised in 1982. His best-loved work is the Annunciation, versions of which are on display in Florence’s Museo di San Marco Tuscan Architecture . 314. and Cortona’s Museo Diocesano. Duccio di Buoninsegna (c 1255–1318) Why Pisa Leans . .126 Head honcho of the Sienese school; known for his riveting Madonnas with level gazes and pale-green skin against glowing gold backgrounds. His masterwork is the Maestà in the Museo dell’Opera in Siena. Wine Tour of Chianti . 206 On the Road Northwestern Tuscany (p120) Florence ^# (p56) Eastern Tuscany (p251) Central Coast & Elba Siena &Central (p162) Tuscany (p187) Southern Tuscany Elba (p232) P o Po VENETO a P o bbi e Tr aro an e# 0 50 km Florence & Tuscany P 0 25 miles #^Modena Apuane Alps ADRIATIC Hike wildflower-adorned SEA marble mountains (p148) Bologna#^ EMILIA- Garfagnana ROMAGNA Lunigiana Enjoy hiking and #\ A rustic cuisine (p148) Pontremoli pu Florence an Visit a Renaissance e A lps time capsule (p56) LIGURIA Garfagnana Parco Regionale delle Alpi Apuane Castelnuovo di Garfagnana #÷ #\ #\ Carrara #\ Barga #^ Massa #\ Parco Nazionale 44°N Bagni di delle Foreste V #\ Lucca Casentinesi, e Pietrasanta r Pistoia #^ s Monte #÷ Monte Falterona e i LIGURIAN l i Falterona Campigna a SEA n #]Viareggio Florence (1654m)R Chianti R Airport i #^ Tipple Italy's v Lucca #\ Lucca i #\ Stia e #– Fiesole best-known wine (p202) Pedal or promenade atop r a #^ medieval walls (p134) Florence #÷ Poppi #÷ no #\ Pisa Ar Riserva Parco Regionale #^ Chianti Naturale Migliarino #\ Fiorentino Vallombrosa LE MARCHE San Rossore #– Pisa San Miniato Massaciuccoli International Greve in Airport Chianti Sansepolcro #\ #\ Chianti Piazza dei Miracoli, Pisa Livorno #^ o Climb the famous Arn T Chianti ev leaning tower (p124) #^ e #\ Senese #\ Arezzo r #\ Gaiole in e San Castellina Gimignano Chianti Gorgona in Chianti #\ #\ Volterra Castiglioncello #\ Castiglion Fiorentino Siena #^ #\ Cortona San Gimignano Sip Vernaccia under Bolgheri medieval towers (p211) #\ Lago #\Castagneto Trasimeno Perugia Carducci Montepulciano #^ #\ #\ San Montalcino Val #\ #\ Vincenzo d'Orcia Pienza #\ #\ #\ Capraia Massa e Capraia Golfo di Arezzo r Marittima Bagno e Baratti #\ See Piero della Francesca'v s 43°N Baratti Vignoni e frescoes (p253) T #\ #\ Elba Piombino Bagni San Escape to Tuscany's Filippo island paradise (p176) Golfo di #\ Cavo #\ Vetulonia Marciana Follonica Marina #\ Elba #^ Orvieto #\ #\ Capoliveri Grosseto #\ Sorano Fetovaia Sovana #\ #\ Val d'Orcia Pitigliano #\ Drive through postcard- #÷ Parco Regionale Piazza del Campo, Siena della Maremma perfect landscapes (p222) Pianosa Admire Gothic buildings and magnificent art (p189) UMBRIA ROAD DISTANCES (km) Porto Orte #\ Note: Distances TYRRHENIAN Santo Florence 60 are approximate Stefano SEA #\ #\ Orbetello #^ Viterbo Grosseto 100 113 Riserva Naturale #÷Lago di Burano Monte 3 Lago di Livorno 126 80 110 Campese #\ Montecristo Argentario Burano ELEVATION Città del Tufa Lucca 117 61 130 36 Giglio 1800m Explore a fascinating Pisa 121 69 120 19 17 Etruscan legacy (p242) 1500m Giannutri Siena 47 51 64 87 89 87 1200m 800m 500m e o 300m 100m Arezzo Florenc Grosseto Livorn Lucca Pisa 0 11 °E AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Virginia Maxwell Coordinating Author; Siena & Central Tuscany; Southern Tuscany; Eastern Tuscany Based in Australia, Virginia spends part of every year in Italy indulging her passions for history, art, architecture, food and wine. She has written two previous editions of this guide and covers both Tuscany and other parts of the country for the Italy and Western Europe books. Though reticent to nominate a favourite Tuscan destination (arguing that they’re all wonderful), she usually nominates Florence if pressed. For this book Virginia also wrote most of the Plan Your Trip section, Tuscany on Page & Screen, Art & Architecture and the Survival Guide section. Read more about Virginia at: lonelyplanet.com/members/virginiamaxwell Nicola Williams Florence; Northwestern Tuscany; Central Coast & Elba A British writer and editorial consultant, Nicola has lived on the southern shore of Lake Geneva for over a decade. Thankfully for her Italianate soul, it is an easy hop through the Mont Blanc Tunnel to Italy where she has spent years eating her way around and revelling in its extraordinary art and landscape. Nicola has worked on numerous Lonely Planet titles, including Italy, Milan, Turin & Genoa and Piedmont. She blogs at tripalong.wordpress.com and tweets @tripalong. For this book Nicola also wrote Eat & Drink Like a Local, Outdoor Experiences and most of the Understand section. Read more about Nicola at: lonelyplanet.com/members/nicolawilliams Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 8th edition – Jan 2014 able care in preparing this book, we make