HOME ECONOMICS AUG 311982 GUIDE 7~ 6f tk fJ.1UJJfMill( o/ 1ttiMotui,-~ e,IJbUiJJI,, "/JiuuiM ~eoj/10M.ee,~

Custom-Made Shoulder Pads

Velda Rankin, State Clothing & Textiles Specialist Janet Delcour, Area Clothing & Textiles Specialist Doris Koelling, Consultant

Making Pattern Commercially made pads do not always fie the individual figure type or the garment being constructed. A custom made pad can be adjusted in thickness, shape and material. Polyester fleece, non-woven materials and fashion fabrics are frequently used .

Pin jacket front and back pattern pieces together along the shoulder seam. If jacket has a side section, it may need to be pinned inversion place in order to complete the armscye.

1

Lay a piece of tracing paper over the pattern. Place a dot on shoulder line 1 inch from the neckline seam. Mark 1 inch toward shoulder from each armhole notch on both front and back. (See Figure 1.)

2

Connect the marks with a curved line. Trace the armhole cutting line. Mark the shoulder at the armhole and indicate front and back on each side of the shoulder Archivemark.

3

419 This pattern is the largest of the pieces used to make the pad. Shape the four additional layers progressively BACK smaller as indicated in fi gure 2. The triangle # 3 is shaped by placing a dot l 1/2 inches on each side of the shoulder mark and another dot 211 from the shoulder edge on the shoulder line. Connect the dots with straight PAPER lines to make a triangle.

FRONT Figure 1

Do Not Use As a Pattern

a: ~I 0 :r (/)

BACK

•5 FLEECE ·2 FLEECE •4 I I THESE FLEECE I •3

SHOULDER EDGE

CLIP AT SHOULDER Constructing Pad The methods for making both men's and women's shoulder pads are similar except ladies' jackets have fewer layers. Three or four layers are usually enough for most women's jackets, however layers 2 or4 may be eliminated for a thinner pad. Extra thickness can be achieved by placing additional layers between 3 and 4 or between 4 and 5 .

Construct the shoulder pads, following these directions. Remember to reverse the order of assembly for the second pad for the opposite shoulder. Cut pattern# 1 from Pellon or muslin. All other layers are cut from polyester fleece. Make a small clip at each end of the shoulder line as a marking. Also mark the front and back. 4 Stack the layers in the order shown, matching the shoulder markings.

Loosely hand baste along the shoulder line through all layers. Curve the layers over the hand to shape the pad and hand baste the layers on both sides of the shoulder line. Machine basting may be used to hold layers # 1 and #5 together as shown on the diagram .

5

This pad is suitable for a lined jacket. If the shoulder pad is to be used in an unlined jacket, cut a piece of the jacket fabric using pattern # 1 and place it on the side of the pad opposite the muslin. The muslin layer should lie next to the jacket. The fashion fabric layer gives a neater finish to the exposed side of the pad . 6 This guide is part of a series on clothing construction. For others in the series see Home Economics guides 4 10-422.

■ Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914 in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. Leonard C. Douglas, Director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Missouri and Lincoln University, Columbia, Missouri 65211 . ■ An equal opportunity institution.

File: Clothing and Textiles 6182/BM