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The 20Th Century of American Fashion: 1900 – 2000

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The 20Th Century of American Fashion: 1900 – 2000 The 20th Century of American Fashion: 1900 – 2000 By Alison Kass Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for a Degree in Writing Journalism and Freelance 10 May 2011 Professor Anne Witkavitch WRT 465 Abstract This thesis project is a collection of articles that discuss American fashion during the 20th century. The articles are grouped by decade, starting in the year 1900 and finishing in the year 2000; with a double-decade piece for the beginning of the century. Fashion is an ever-changing, growing entity that connects with every person in the United States; some embrace it while others ignore it, yet fashion has a place in the American society that is constant. Through world wars and depressions, fashion takes on revolutionary hardships and transforms itself accordingly, becoming selections of style that fit every occasion, taste, and social standard. What happens in society is demonstrated in fashion. Coco Chanel quoted, “fashion is always of the time in which you live.” These articles correspond to and represent that. i Table of Contents Introduction 1 1900-1920s: The Beginning of Fashion in the 20th Century 5 1930s: The Great Depression and Hollywood Glamour 10 1940s: Women’s Workwear 13 1950s: Retro Beauty for Housewives and Pin-ups 17 1960s: A Fashion Revolution 20 1970s: Funky Style 24 1980s: The Edge of Fashion 27 1990-2000s: Fashion Goes Modern 31 ii The 20th Century of American Fashion: 1900 - 2000 Introduction Fashion designer Coco Chanel said, “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street; fashion had to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening” (“Famous Women and Beauty,” 2010). Coco Chanel’s quote is as pertinent today as it was back in the 1950s when she said it. Many see fashion as just frivolous clothing for anorexic-thin models, but fashion is also for the everyday woman with a discretionary income. The bottom line is that women want to look and feel good—the two are synonymous with one another. Chanel’s message resonates deeper than a classic suit jacket. Fashion is a part of who we are, the way we live, and the times we exist in—Chanel’s idea of fashion tied into ideas is a classic concept that spans decades. Fashion is not only defined by what we wear, but also how we carry ourselves. Those two things combined; clothing and attitude are what make up a personal style. Fashions and styles in America have changed dramatically over the decades in the past century. Fashion itself is an ever-changing collection of styles that suit different people and different times. Fashion can be viewed as an expressive art, with the human body as its canvas, and as a representation of 1 one’s class, career, imagination, and mood. But all fashions go in and out of style, which is evident in the vast changes seen in American clothing. There are many fads, yet other styles remain classics—clothing that sat in a woman’s closet in the 1950s, and remains in the wardrobes of women today. There are many factors that dictate which fashions come in and out of style in the United States. Many styles in the new millennium are inspired by the trends in past decades, and the trends in those decades were connected to what was going on in the country at that time. Crises in America profoundly affect what people wear, what they buy, and what they desire. The Great Depression in the ‘30s and early ‘40s heavily impacted what Americans bought and wore as clothing. Once people had to fight to feed their families, fashion became an unnecessary luxury, and was seemingly unimportant compared to other things in daily life. Fashion fell by the wayside for a few years during this time, but never vanished completely, because the lack of style actually then became the style of the time. New York City both mourns the 9/11 attacks and celebrates Fashion Week within the same block; half the crowd is dressed in structured black while the other sports Spring’s new lines of flowing silhouettes in pastel colors. This observable fact is an example of how fashion is part of life practices in the United States. 2 Once identified, fashion begins to change. This statement corresponds to the cultural, social, and psychological effects fashion has on the American people. As displayed in the articles ahead, styles come into fashion, catch on to the masses, and only stay for a short time until they dissipate when the next new, big thing comes along. The changes in fashion are motivated by culture and events, which in turn affect people socially and psychologically. Different styles embody different states of mind and events; the woman in white at a wedding is always the bride, as a white dress is culturally viewed as a fresh and innocent look, and as a new beginning. Conversely, at funerals and memorial services, the room is filled with people wearing all black outfits; this style represents the depressed or dark feelings people are having at the event. Fashion can be used as a synonym for glamour, style, and beauty. But more than any of these things, fashion should be seen as an expression. Every one is exposed to fashion every day, and every single person’s fashion differs somehow from another’s. Even those who do not give any thought to what they wear, or having a style, make choices in clothing that depict themselves as a person, and represent their character on a daily basis. The self-expression that comes from style allows people to be whoever they want to be. Fashion allows a person to change who they are based on their look. It is that expression that can boost self esteem, and allow the discovery of how one wants to present 3 themselves to the world as an individual. Fashion is an ever-changing, always growing, celebration of diversity in America. 4 1900-1920: The Beginning of Fashion in the 20th Century Figures 1-2; 1900 Corsets Figures 3-4; Flappers In the beginning of the 20th century, women in America began to embrace their personal styles. Before the 1900s, styles in America were very modest, and clothing was only used for cover from the elements. The 1900s marked the slow movement of fashion from simple body coverings to more defined silhouettes for women. 5 In the early 1900s, fashion was beginning to change into commerce. In the meantime, most women still wore full cover dresses that showed little to no skin. The attire was formal and very ladylike, with lace and ribbons, and big feathery hats. Women often changed their outfits several times a day depending on occasions in order to maintain proper etiquette. Underneath those frilly, full-cover dresses were tight fitting corsets. Corsets were underwear garments with long laces that were pulled and tied until a woman’s body was held in a tightly defined silhouette. Corsets were uncomfortable and meant to control how a woman moved and stood. If too tightly laced, which they often were, it restricted eating and breathing (Steele, 2001). No matter what type of garment, women’s clothing in the early 1900s was designed to show off a woman’s tightly corseted torso. Such tight fitting clothes required the perfect fit; many women went to dressmakers to be measured for their custom dresses. The most famous custom dressmakers of the time were the Tirocchi sisters. The sisters carefully constructed garments using dress forms built to their client’s exact measurements; they first made the lining, which was given to the client to try on to make sure it fit properly. After that step, the dressmakers then sewed the more costly fabrics around the lining, draping satin or velvet to form the skirt, and create a bodice using net, lace, and beaded trim (“Fashion in the 1900s). A girdle or belt held the waistline together. 6 Between 1910 and 1920, fashion began to loosen up. French designers like Paul Poiret looked to the French Empire for inspiration. He began designing dresses for an un-corseted figure, using loose, elegant draping. The clothes possessed softer lines and fell over a woman’s curves rather than forcing their bodies to conform to their clothing, as previous designers had done. By 1910, women began throwing away their corset undergarments. Poiret claimed that his dresses instigated the demise of the corset, but the truth is that many before him had already taken the first steps to eliminating corsets in their fashions. There had been a movement since the mid-19th century to abolish corsets (Steele, 2001). The trend towards looser gowns crossed the Atlantic to the United States, where American women adopted the new style. However, conservative women still hung on to their corsets for a few more years. When the World War I began in 1914, the couture business suffered a loss in business. Poiret and other designers were called into the military and forced to close their couture houses. Wartime prevented trade between France and the United States, so clientele in the couture business disappeared (“Fashion History Costume Trends and Eras,” 2009). As male designers were off defending France, a young female designer came of age. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was a pioneering fashion designer whose modernist philosophy and simple yet elegant design style helped her to become the most important figure in fashion in the 20th century. She began making hats 7 and selling them in her boutique, which gradually expanded to include jersey dresses and menswear-inspired fashions.
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