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The Best Full-Day 1 Tours

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7 1 T -A s Q v e T The Best V t E aya Ul. Sadn o sk o va R Sukharev ya-Sukha S ya- y re K Q- adova NAQ UL. vska VyAa S OTEH ya ith the most famous landmarks in one (tightly-packed) mile Oa M B U A SaAdDov UL. OVAQ-SA l. Q S Q l. SAD l A v - ETN a U Q KAR tnay . M -Kare S around Red Square, this tour should take you from St. Basil’s to K U W A . r. Ul l. Q e a L. P ay Q U K U ny aln A a the Bolshoi (via the Kremlin, GUM and a few secret spots) with mini- N M L y f : r Central . e um AL e h . z ri F t T M ru a- U D n TSVETNMOaYrket O y I y - in One Day a R m M. Sukhar mum wear on shoe leather and nerves. Pace yourself with plenty of ov -T R BULVAR Q i d A t y evsky Per. a V r a S O o D d A v stops for snacks and shopping, and leave the Jimmy Choo’s at home. S k r. a e y P U k l START: from Teatralnaya metro, heading east towards Red Square. MAYAKOV- s . v r. bov no ky Pe 2nd Kolo sky SKAYA e Uspens 1 er. Tchaikovsky pim r. P ro Pe st K

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Y U i o r L n y U o r TVERSKAYA a g a o a U l. s l n v y k o . v k n k y s a o a k n l r a U P T n o e a l e v B V U . U n v k . i r s E l t S . k B . r. l n Tverskaya e l s p R . y P g a i S e r P y e i e K B P d r. Ploshad v . d b o A o N k D h u n ni E Q M z L o h T s ost . o KUZNETSKY v U le R M o I ky B O k R L t MKhAT ts R a . S T ne . A . R V KuzN MOST l lv Ul. V O K U Theater E B : V i A G L K o im. Chekhov L U A U Pu k I s B . hec s r L hn r e U N aya e J y . Ul. P L N v O sk y r . T e A K k r. g S s r Q v e e . LUBYANKA R r The Church of e P m e U E y y Ka P V t k L the Great T n . d o s Proez e n lny Ascension L e . atra ROEZD s r Te J P e :NY B. N e P RAL ikits n AT kaya U z v TE l. B. NIK o o ITSKAQ U V s d B L. u a D . y . y r r R RQ C N e TEATRALNAYA PLOSHAD h O r. B P . y J M N B r n e V N P tertny e N . N y e t Y r A o o ka P P e i ik n P o REVOLUTSII v e I k it t N k Q v S r r sk y h T a a . y B i a e k a r z K t ya z k O s P y State Historical Museum. s k U s O k l I M U s X s y k l a t s L a a L . i O y v a T G k O y . k P a e : i . y k S OKHOTNY l W l K B U h o V B N . l K B U o P . z v A l i A v s . g e R s I N RYAD a D R . l I y o r . k J o K y . : I a ★★★ v a B y T sk v 1 Red Square. This great in front is of World War II victor Mar- s S l P K V P l k A o e e Q k e e n y . U i t r s r r L o . . P . N s k . e y N expanse only became known as such shall Zhukhov (1896–1974), as he e r h a P n k i r e in k . P v Red y y o P Il y o l. l n e s during the 17th century, with the appeared in the 1945 Victory Parade k Square r U .Per. a The . R k lo s KRASNAQ y y is v K m Arsenal b P . o GUM K h l o PLOWAD: n e s h y archaic dual meaning of “krasnaya” on Red Square. iz i R r r . K P N u . ALEKSANDROVSKY P e at s Novy Arb Voz e r dv B t . iz . r (red or beautiful) used in honor of the he SAD a nk . a L . U V l L l. OZ n U

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L thing you see is original: the Kazan X R BOROVITSKAYA U State O IMENI LENINA St Basil’s A U B l. hard to believe that the GUM depart- V Z M n : Library Cathedral J . Cathedral (built 1636) and the Res- a . l . m l L r I e U Zaradye Project U U e n ment store housed government K k B a P a a S The . y urrection Gate (1680) were both y r y J V a a e

k E n Kremlin I v s P offices from the end of the Revolu- h L o K v z y h O demolished to allow easier access e S e l k k S G V n s s o t O M E o tion until 1953. Prices are high and v a a s a kvo G M ret o L n s r M b. ka K Na y for Stalin’s military parades, before o a o a a p O ly y N . m a a f k b k s G a v . p z Borovitskaya ev i l l o

A the tables cramped: but this is New l h O m i n e n B . r G y K F @ Tower being rebuilt in the 1990s. 20 min. y

B y P e ushenny Per. . k r B v . s Russian country, and observing the a r. l b. Pe v k a l e B N zh c Metro: Okhotny Ryad, Ploshad Revo- a Vr e ya v l se a h Sivt y ysk o i u k Sof clientele is fascinating. Red Square g s g

v o lutsii, Teatralnaya. U

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e S o i ad h v ov r . n G l k ic . o U a hesk 2 The State Historical and k a The aya . k N G n ab agarinsky hoCathedral . Lenin Museums. These two Per. lk al o of Christ n b. Ovchin KROPOTKINSKAYA V ka ya Na niko ★★★ the Savior ny ska vsk gothic monoliths, completed in 1881 4 St. Basil’s Cathedral. S od hev aya oy tv das Na m o Ka d b. It may look haphazard, but St. Basil’s on o 2n ky and 1900 respectively, are classic ov d evs sk Vo dash y P Ka r. (commissioned by Ivan the Terrible ro Pe examples of Russian Revival architec- ezd . b . a b ture—but both best observed from a in 1555 to celebrate the capture of a N a nk N te Po a is z y a Kazan) was originally a highly sym- y h h a c . . a distance. The Lenin Museum k was l a r k e r n A r U s t S P s e k v o K M a 1 y P l t . e . a l k s P o N bolic structure of eight separate U a t e y B b r closed after the putsch of 1993, and n n Y n a o s e Z r o Y e a . e r u v N m h D o ro z c s a p h r o R P k v te y o Klime chapels, centered around the Cathe- o a v a s nt i . h s e ovsk o n t c a TRETYAKOVSKAYA O y Per. the State Historical Museum j has P a k t r n s s e k B m e Z y e . ky r. O v u s e d s n t B P K P r k n N r y a . an er 3 e P y dral of the Intercession, whose . m L o little to recommend it unless you are t r e i P

. r s . k U v e a e . v r o Y . L P k iconostasis (the icon-filled screen in U e u r fascinated by archeology. The statue . y . a Q z k r k . n s e a A b n v A e P a k y K o K t N n k d s i C N y t a r k y I u A d a a O r B k N y s M . a n O T e I t . Q U M is . K B P h b l Q . . c . a l e . l r N P B U a U y . a L k s U m y r K a N k O n V a O m K i k U a Z Y N . E B C . l K

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8 Full-Day Tours Full-Day The Best

The psychedelic domes of St Basil’s cathedral.

front of every orthodox altar) is a longstanding tradition for Soviet must see. The stone platform in brides. Equally moving are the mon- front—the Lobnoe Mesto, or Place uments containing earth from each of Skulls—is said (incorrectly) to of the Hero Cities of World War II be a former execution site. In fact, (Stalingrad, Leningrad and Moscow while Ivan the Terrible made his itself in 1941) awarded that status public repentance here in 1549, and for their role in that conflict. @ 20 Boris Godunov was crowned here in min. Metro: Alexandrovsky Sad. 1598, miscreant boyars (members 7 ★★★ The Kremlin. The origi- of the nobility) were executed on nal defensive center of the city, its Vasilyevsky Spusk, the cobbled historic and ornate cathedrals, slope directly behind. The statue in scene of the coronations (and buri- front is of Kuzma Minin and Dmitry als) of the Tsars deserve half a day Pozharsky, victors against the 1612 at least. See p 16. @ 4 hr. Polish invasion during the Time of Troubles. @ 1 hr. Red Square d. 2 8 ★★ The Museum of Con- y 495 698 3304. Admission 100R temporary Russian History. adults, 50R kids and students. Daily This museum is housed in the for- May–Oct 11am–6pm, Nov–Apr mer English Club, whose members 11am–5pm. Metro: Okhotny Ryad, included the writers Alexander Ploshad Revolutsii, Teatralnaya. Pushkin (1799–1837) and Leo Tol- stoy (1828–1910). It became the 5 ★★ Lenin’s Mausoleum. Still Museum of the Revolution of the here decades after his death, the USSR in 1924, and now covers Russ- embalmed corpse of the first Soviet ian political and social history since leader (Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov or the mid-19th century. Enjoy one of Lenin, 1870–1924) has withstood the largest collections of political numerous attempts to allow him a posters in the world, before picking decent burial. If you find this up your own copy in the ground grotesque, be grateful Stalin was floor shop. @ 1 hr. Tverskaya Ul. d. relocated to the Kremlin Wall in 21. y 495 699 6724; 495 699 5217. 1961: and don’t read page 43. www.sovr.ru/english/. Admission 6 ★ Alexandrovsky Sad. 100R, kids and students 70R. Tues, Leaving a bouquet at the tomb of Wed, Fri 10am–6pm, Thurs and Sat the unknown soldier here was a 05_723043-ch01.qxp 9/25/08 2:02 PM Page 9

9 The Best Russian Museums: Need to Know

Dual Pricing: Some museums still charge different prices for Russian in One Day nationals and foreigners: “foreigner” rates are shown throughout this guide. Opening Times: Russian museums close one day a week, usually Monday. Many also close for cleaning, usually— although by no means always—on the final Monday of every month. Floor Numbering: What Europeans call the ground floor will be the first floor in Russia. This system is used throughout this book. Tele- phone Numbers: A 499 Moscow code has been introduced in addi- tion to the existing 495. Most numbers won’t require a prefix if dialing within the city: but if calling a 499 number from a 495 one, you’ll need to prefix it with ‘8’ and wait for a tone before dialing the number. It’s the same procedure for long-distance calls: see Savvy Traveler, p 172. Numbers change all the time. If you don’t get through on a 495 number, try 8 499.

11am–7pm, Sun 10am–5pm. Metro: Workers of the world unite! Chekhovskaya, Pushkinskaya, Tver- skaya. ! Teatralnaya 9 ★★★ Eliseevskiy Gas- Ploshad. Head east tronom. Built at the end of the from Tverskaya past 18th century Eliseevskiy’s the State Duma (or Stores was opened here in parliament, but pre- 1901. Nationalized after the viously the Gosplan revolution to become Gas- building, the heart tronom No. 1, it was notori- of the Soviet Cen- ous during the Brezhnev tral planning) years for supplying the towards this nomenklatura (communist Neo Classical party elite) with their luxury square, home goods: until an anti-corrup- to the Maly and tion crackdown by Soviet leader Bolshoi Theaters (see Yuri Andropov saw its director, Yuri p 136). Take the perehod (subway) Sokolov, executed on charges of cor- in front of the Maly to admire the ruption in April 1984. @ 15 min. Tver- mosaics on the Style Moderne skaya Ulitsa d. 14. y 495 650 4643. Metropol Hotel–with the statue of http://www.eliseevskiy.ru/e_about.htm Karl Marx somewhat ironically in Daily 24 hr. Metro: Chekhovskaya, front–before heading uphill past Pushkinskaya, Tverskaya. upmarket shopping mall Tretya- kovsky Proezd. Keep going uphill towards the Lubyanka, and head 0 ★ Coffee Bean. The former down Lubyansky Proezd for a Filippov bakery, this site saw heavy glimpse of one of Stalin’s skyscrap- fighting during the 1905 uprising. ers, the Dom na Kotelnicheskoi Service is desultory, but the cakes (see p 39). Metro: Ploshad Revolut- are irresistible. Tverskaya Ul. d. 10. sii, Teatralnaya. y 495 788 6357. $.

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Y world’s largest open-air swimming

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P r 6 Café Michel. Refuel with the

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i r

r e a

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e L No phone. $. 05_723043-ch01.qxp 9/25/08 2:02 PM Page 12

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R The Best

A . V . R B r O : DES . Pe TVENSKI L y J BUL:VA L inally, a day of relaxation in Zamoskvorechye with a leisurely U k R U s B v o B. J tr Kiseln M O e y Per. a B P k tour of both Tretyakov Galleries and a trip to the banya (tradi- . . K B K S n F r R B a o o . n E z y Vn i D b START: k tional Russian sauna and baths). Novokuznetskaya metro, for T m P u . a h . . l r l y i e e L . n i . U v a P t t U l s y r r U k k o B o a TVERSKAYA a

B in Three Days y ts l. v y the Tretyakov Gallery. l i v k y . P z k v k a U o o a o n e K ik a n k r n e . U h s v s U n r e i l l t . o l e t . l Tverskaya r s S . e g v T P v e T B e P e Ploshad . d r N s D E h k MKhAT M T z a R st o KUZNETSKY ★★★ y I Mo ★★ O R 1 4 The Art Muzeon a Theater im. T tsky Novokuznetskaya R V Kuzne N MOST

U O K E l Chekhov V F A

. G K u This park was

L Metro. Tretyakovskaya is closer to Sculpture Park. r k A U Pu I s . T hech . r V L n P N a e U ya Ul. e E y L . P k N r the gallery, but the bas reliefs and established in 1991 to house the R s . y r . S e A k r. g LUBYANKA s K r Q v e e . A r e P m e U y Q a P mosaics at this station (built in 1943 Communist statues being rapidly t y K L k U Lubyanka n s Bolshoi . o L e n L e . . Theater Ploshad and celebrating former military torn down by the Moscow Soviet. s r Maly e e 8 n P N z v Theater O o o V N heroes) are simply too ornate to miss. You’ll find Derzhinsky (founder of the V s d B A o u a D . Q v y . y a r r R RQ C P y e TEATRALNAYA PLOSHAD h NKVD, forerunner to the KGB), Stalin, B P . y J L a . N r n e O ★★★UL P N e t P A M y Y r 2EJK The Tretyakov Gallery. o i n P o N REVOLUTSII k W l OS v I k t h . MAR a e i B y T a B K . N e k A . Lenin, Brezhnev, Gorky and others— r r t i z k O s Ul s U s k s O D a k z I M it a X ik a k s t s : e l L k G i O k s An easy to follow, chronological lay- y y T a o y . k r a : y i . y L a S a l a K B U U k V B U N some of them a bit worse for wear, l K U o P M . o A l i l. B v s g e Q v I a R . l B y o r out (covering Russian art from the o N s J . y . N OKHOTNY a S k v I k a K s v K with the graffiti on Dzerzhersky still y s l I V P l I k T RYAD o e P S e e n y K ik t J 17th to the 20th centuries) and free e . A r s Q o . a P r N k k r . e U s y n N P evident, and Stalin’s nose having . e r L h i . e P n ly i R r Red I k O . P v y l. o English language guides make this E o P U l y e s Z @ k n Square r taken a severe beating. 1 hr. .Per. a The . R k D lo s KRASNAQ y y is v gallery an absolute joy. See p 34. K m b P . o Manezh GUM K h l o PLOWAD: n e y s h y Krymsky Val d. 10. 8 499 238 iz i R r r P . K u N P @ A . ALEKSANDROVSKII e AR2K hr. Metro: Novokuznetskaya, V s ARV oz B e r UL. V dv t . . iz r 3679; 8 499 238 3396. Admission he SAD a rvarka nk St Basil’s . Va a L U V l . l. OZ n l

DV U Troitskaya U Tretyakovskaya. I ENK Cathedral . R A UL. Q Tower 100R. May–Sep 9am–10pm, Oct–Apr

A ARBATSKAYA A

V V : The Russian O BIBLIOTEKA

L 3 10am–9pm. Metro: Oktyabrskaya, BOROVITSKAYA X Kremlin Lavrushinsky Pereulok. It’s U U State O IMENI LENINA B l. M Z n Library J . Zaradye worth taking some time to explore Park Kultury. a . m l l

I e U U n Project K k . a a a r S . y y this lane, pedestrianized in 2006 r e V a a ★ e

P E n v 5 The New Tretyakov P h y L o z k y h O (see p 82). The 17th-century Cham- e s k k G

v n s o Moskvoretskaya N O ab. Gallery. The grey 1960s’ building v a

e G M s o M K bers of the Kadashevski Slobode a o . p ly ab . m N n a a p v zh y i l a of the New Tretyakov Gallery (dedi-

a Borovitskaya k l s i f n v B le y F B

A m at No. 4 now house police adminis- y P Tower re e K a k r . l cated to 20th-century Russian art), s r. . c v azhek Pe Nab h trators. But follow the signs for the r e V a u Sivtsev l L U kay s g o e l. ofi depresses on sight and doesn’t n S g U N iv o Magnum Ars Gallery to discover a k l

a B . G a s o really improve on entry. I always h l P s c e h red granite statue skulking against h r l. o . o U i head straight to the fourth floor, for M k a K Sado . k o a vn n ich the Tretyakov’s northernmost wall: G o s m esk agarin KROPOTKINSKAYA Cathedral of t a sky Per. h m l ya a peerless chronicle of 20th-century lk na Na o Christ the e ka Nab. bJoseph. Stalin himself, abandoned in V n y aya Savior y n sk Ovc S d ev hinni Russian art from the avant garde o h A k oy v as ovs a corner, as if in disgrace. @ 30 min. t d K k d m . o Ka d ay z

N a e o b o 2n y o N to Socialist Realism and beyond, n a d sk r a o ev Y P b vs N o sh . a D Metro: Tretyakovskaya. ky V ad

R K r. P e including late Kandinsky graphics, r P O o y

. e M k zd L s a B . a e y . . h

b T v c a L a a S o r i k k n n N m u U e P s t v t o a s s v a o i z r a h h h y d End of an empire : the Art Museon Sculpture Park. . e o l c a c i e a r n n a r r n t m h S P s e s k e o e 1 y P l o k l. s s o . v NOVOKUZNETSKAYA P r b n y U t e y B s Z r e a e p a . o k v B N t y e c n a r h o Klim a y y P . en ch te a s to a v a a vsky P a Z t r e er. s e k k k d P r r k v u s . n s n e n 3 y k K e y a r y .

P K h Pe im d h r z e r. k il N

o r k a TRETYAKOVSKAYA O

t . o Y o s v . v O P B e o . . . l r l . . 3r k L u U b d POLYANKA U a G U z o N l n u A a tv e y K a in a t s s k k k N s k y n n Art Muzeon A P a e y t e U s r M y i . . d l a h b I r c Sculpture . a e U K B r N O P a Q . l . . y Park . . a P r k B e s o M P

m l . y ry l . a y K 1 l k U st n s B U ov ab k ak a a P eg ny N e k h O r o is . r. n V V

a 1s O t KhU v1osstt oKva.zachiy Per. m K i L k y U Pe Pe. r. etsk r. zn u Z a B k . vo r Y o N . N

e . t P 1s E P Y B C a O k im K a L n s k Q A y y P k er. N Q s K 1s K U ry v t Sp m A a L s o sona k n k liv . y ovsk - V o y P al r er. a ovsk. M etchik h Mon . 5t . r Per e

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14 Full-Day Tours Full-Day The Best

20th Century Russian art at the New Tretyakov Gallery.

early propaganda posters, and complete with pool. @ 2 hr. Neglin- 1930s’ constructivist photography. naya Ulitsa.d. 14, bldgs 3–7 (entrance For me the real gems are in Halls 25 from Sandunovsky Pereulok). y 495 and 26, with several rarely seen pro- 625 4631: private banya y 495 628 pagandist portraits of Stalin and typ- 4633. www.sanduny.ru. From 600R ical Soviet statuary, including Vera for 2 hours (kids half price), private Mukhina’s infamous Worker and Kol- banya 2,500R per hour. Daily 8am– hoznitsa (1936). @ 1 hr. Krymsky 10pm, but check website for cleaning Val d. 10. y 8 499 230 7788; 8 499 times. Metro: Kuznetsky Most. 238 1378. www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Admission 250R, kids and students 150R. Tues–Sun 10am–7:30pm. 8 ★ Evropeisky Zal, Metropol Metro: Oktyabrskaya, Park Kultury. Hotel. This historic landmark, completed in 1905, once hosted mem- 6 Boat Trip From Gorky Park. bers of the Bolshevik’s Central Pick up a boat among the fairground Committee. Splash out under the attractions in Gorky Park and head stained-glass ceilings of the upstream past the Novodevichy Con- Metropol Zal, or the smaller but vent or downstream past the Krem- equally ornate or Evropeisky. lin to the Novospassky Monastery. Teatralny Proezd d. 1/4. y 8 499 1 @ 1 ⁄2 hr (leaving every 20 min.). 270 1061 (Metropol Zal); y 8 499 y 495 225 6070. www.cck-ship.ru 270 1062 (Evropeisky Zal). $$$$$. (Russian only). Adults 400R, kids up to 12 150R. Metro: Oktyabrskaya.

7 ★★★ Sandunovsky Bani. 9 Le Pain Quotidien. If you’re These are the most ornate banya in strapped for cash, on the other the city, but men get by far the bet- hand, this café chain (rapidly open- ter deal, with a columned swimming ing new branches throughout pool in the “Higher Man Class” town—see www.lpq.ru) offers cheap baths (check the deliciously trans- comfort food and hot chocolate by lated website for details). Alterna- the pint. Kamergeksy Pereulok d. 6. tively, order vodka and zakuski y 495 937 7742. $$. (snacks) in your own private banya •