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MAY 2021 www.thenanjinger.com

Sign of the Times

hat it’s been more than a year since our 1. How have you felt lately (like over the last outing in “The Trip” is indeed a sign past year); anxious or guilty? See p. 16-18. Tof these days. 2. Should you bother to keep pace in the But we’re back with a vengeance. And we’ll Chinese race to be ever-more “beautiful”? wager that you too will be hunkering for the See p. 10-12. clean air of Chizhou and the splendour of 3. Taken out a gym membership recently? Jiuhua Shan after you’re read our first travel Notice anything strange? See p. 14-15. piece of 2021. See p. 22-23. Welcome to “Zeitgeist” from The Nanjinger. But before that, a few questions to get us started for this month. Ed.

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2 By Maitiu Bralligan ‘21

Independently, we each rebelled in such similar ways: Black clothes, long hair, earring in the left ear Listening to the same riffs and the same bars “And now you do what they told ya...”

We were free! Casting our fearless bodies Into the mosh pit / wrecking pool (call it what you will) In the thrall of the same intoxicating thrill. “Here we are now, entertain us...”

And each new high priest of the festival called us To rock and to roll, tripping off the call And response - to which, united, we bawled. “...and burn through the witches...”

Never once did we consider that we might Be merely conforming to a new wave of thought Dressed in borrowed clothes, subliminally taught “Hey you, what do ya see?/Something beautiful or something free?”

Our un-enlightened parents tutted utter disapproval As they wondered where they went so wrong To have such reckless rejection laid spawn. Answers “For whom the bell tolls/Time marches on...” 1. “Killing in the Name”; Rage Against the Machine; 1992 2. “Entertain Us”; Nirvana; 1991 Now looking back at the bangles and Mary chains, 3. “Dragula”; Rob Zombie; 1998 4. “Beautiful People”; Marilyn Manson; 1996 I squint at my son, with his tats and swag, 5. “For whom the Bell Tolls”; Metallica; 1984 His ripped jeans jacket and American flag 6. “Alright”; Kendrick Lamar; 2015 “And we hate po-po/ Wanna kill us dead in the streets fo sho'...” 7. “Purple Haze”; Jimi Hendrix Experience; 1967 8. “The Man who Sold the World”; David Bowie; 1970 (also See him roll innocent blue eyes and groan covered by Nirvana; 1995) as he wonders why it took his world so long To foster such unfettered understanding- “Purple haze all in my brain, lately things don’t seem the same...”

And I ask: if any of us here ever was inspired By an independent thought, born of his own mind And not of the unseen architects of time. “We passed upon the stair, we spoke of was and when…”

I play my turn and tut my disapproval...

9 LIVING IN A ONE-SIDEDWORLDOFBEAUTY I amwho and what I am

“Your eyes aren’t big enough.” “Your nose bridge isn’t high enough.” “You are flat.”

…the phrases repeated to me over and over again growing up in a mostly western- dominated culture.

By Ada Sun

10 grew up in America, spending the majority of because a part of me believed that it would my tween and early teen years in a school make me feel complete, better help me Iwhere the primary ethnicity was Caucasian. morph into being one with western culture, When you are a kid, you just want to fit in with all creating an illusion to everyone around me of your friends, something as simple as that. But that I wasn’t all that different compared to that is not as easy to achieve as you would think. everyone else.

I was in third grade when I came to the brutal Despite my best efforts, I was still perceived as realisation that I looked, dressed and acted an outsider by my friends, who judged the way I completely differently from every single one of my looked and spoke with subtle actions, such as peers. I had just moved to the US from China. I exchanging uncomfortable eye contact or the noticed everyone around me had light-coloured occasional side glance whenever my accent hair, button noses and huge concave eyes. slipped through. Though these actions were small, overtime they built up and slowly chipped I hated how my hair colour was away at my confidence. so dark, I hated how my eyes I even went as far as to get on weren’t big enough, I hated how both knees and begging my my nose wasn’t petite and high mom to let me get a nose job enough, I hated how I just and double eyelid surgery. simply wasn’t enough. She firmly refused, as she couldn’t comprehend I remember staring into my bathroom mirror why I so desperately wanted to change my every day hoping that something has changed appearance that she called beautiful. But it’s and that my Asian features had magically only human nature to want feelings of transformed into Caucasian ones, though, that acceptance and attractiveness. never happened, not even in my wildest dreams. I resented my Asian background and After spending years feeling ridiculous and how it made me so vastly different from isolated, demented in an all-consuming everyone else. mindset, I realised that I was not the only one who thought this. Looking at Eastern Asian My initial point of action was that if I couldn’t culture today, almost everything is influenced look like those girls, then I could dress, speak and subjugated by western-beauty standards; and act like them. I tossed away myAsian whether they be fair skin, double eyelids or a heritage almost completely, refusing to speak dainty nose, the Asian societal beauty spectrum Chinese at home, and put on a façade, hoping to embodies them all. that no one would realise that I was different. Western culture and beauty standards started The concept of fair skin has long been popular to dominate who I fundamentally was, affecting among the Chinese, Korean and Japanese. A everything I did, from what I wore to how I World Health Organisation survey found over 40 presented myself through body language and percent of women in Asia said that they the way I spoke. regularly used skin-whitening cream. I used to spend hours correcting my accent and Therein, western colonialism trying incredibly hard in an attempt to sound more like the stereotypical “valley girl” presented in the plays an enormous role in the countless teen romcoms I’ve binged. Even though popularity of whitening products. I changed essentially everything about myself that An Estee Lauder representative has pointed out made me Chinese, except for the way I looked, I that the product labeled as whitening cream in still never felt satiated. Asia are in the US described as “illuminating When I reached middle school, I only cream”. Whatever is considered as more affiliated myself with Caucasian people, Caucasian is portrayed as beautiful. In Japan,

11 the popular practice of skin bleaching is popular I remember a few years back discovering an old among many, in order to achieve a lighter photo album of my grandma, when she was in appearance. Despite the many health risks, her early 20s. I saw how beautifully she smiled including liver and nerve damage that can come with a sense of pride; fierceness that radiated along with skin bleaching, this goes to show just confidence and self-acceptance. I wanted that, I how extreme some are willing to go to achieve wanted to feel just as proud of myself and my the perceived western phenomenon of fair skin. culture as she was. And it’s not just whitening creams; plastic surgery By things as simple as a is another insanely popular practice adopted by over 20 million people in Asia. South Korea photograph and watching produces some of the highest rates of plastic YouTube videos of influencers surgery in the world, with the most sought-after who looked like me, I could now operations being double eyelid surgery and nose jobs. view myself as beautiful. My The country performs the narrow scope of beauty had most cosmetic been widened. surgeries per capita, with 20 plastic I am still learning to procedures per 1,000 further embrace my people, compared to 13 Asian features and in the US. myself forwho I truly am, but I can feel something This idolised and warped within me that has perception of Caucasian changed from before. I beauty standards has feel a newfound dominated the entire beauty confidence that I’ve industry, pressurising women to rarely experienced and I conform to a race-specific, finally feel comfortable in stereotypical beauty that my own skin. Though disregards all other forms of society is still very much natural beauty that should be fixated on Western equally accepted. beauty standards, I now After spending half my life in the recognise that beauty does not just US, I moved back to China in 2017. exist in one form, but hundreds. The time The transition back into a culture that I’ve has come for the rest of the world to neglected for close to 7 years was a challenge, but acknowledge that as well. it was worth it because all my conformity and the As I am growing older and learning how to take forcefully molding of myself began to dissipate. control and embrace my Asian heritage which gleams beautiful with culture, I don’t need I reconnected with a culture anyone to validate me. I don’t need to fit in, and I that I’ve proudly learned to most definitely don’t need to conform to meet call my own, with the help of standards that do not even apply to me. I am beautiful, I take pride in where I come from, how I rising Asian influencers, act, how I look. expanding my limited scope I finally see what I couldn’t before. And that is I that once sheltered but now am enough; throughout this entire time I am fights for inclusion. enough. And so are you.

Ridiculous Things You’ll See in Chinese Gyms & Swimming Pools

By Frank Hossack

14 or if you go down to the gym today, you’re With the lane essentially now a two-way road, it sure of a big surprise. Given the little physical is able to accommodate people swimming in Fexercise of late, many of us have about a opposite directions. The unwritten rule is to yearofflab to burn off. Gym memberships in many swim a length and then move to other side of parts of the world over are hence rocketing. Yes, the lane for the return leg, allowing an the zeitgeist that is wellness is a metaphor for a appropriate amount of safe distance from the world starting to open up again. swimmer in front. Frankly, they look like planes lining up to land at Heathrow. There was therefore never a better time for The Nanjinger to send a correspondent undercover Naked Use of WeChat.Back in the to join a gym in Nanjing and report back as to the changing room, you’re no one today most bizarre things he uncovered visiting almost unless you can strip off and lounge every day over a 3-month period. around staring at WeChat. The preferred position, it would appear, is with one foot on As a caveat, this exclusive only deals with the the other knee. And with that, we are now lost goings on in the gym’s swimming pool and male for words. changing room. This is on account of heaps of previous media elsewhere discussing the The Mermaid Fin. Last time we checked, bizarre behaviour in the gyms themselves, tying someone’s feet together and then examples such as the young ladies who work hurling them into deep water is a type of out in high highs. And because we don’t know a torture. Not so forthe motherofa 7 or8-year dumb bell from a dumb ass. old whom The Nanjinger observed, snapping photos of her daughter perched precariously on Hence, herein the top five oddities you will the edge of the pool in imminent danger of falling likely encounter. in without the use of her feet. The gym’s swim The Wideboy (小伙子) in the Changing coaches/life guards remained blissfully unaware; Room who Smokes. Initially we though that they being preoccupied with teaching three or this was an extreme anomaly, but then it four people to swim simultaneously and/or happened again, and again. looking at their phone.

The first chap responded indignantly to the Listen, it’s ok for mermaids but not for little girls. retiree who challenged him. “Us young people Many studies conducted into the safety of such have so much pressure”, he said, blissfully “toys” have found that wearing mermaid tails unaware of how ridiculous his cliché had already and fins can reduce a child's ability to swim by become. On the next occasion, the two up to 70 percent. overweight offenders could hardly muster a snigger, and an “Excuse us, we’re sorry. We We still have difficulty believing it, but didn’t know [about the rule]”. taking the cake is… Standing Naked in FrontoftheMirrorwiththeHairdryer.In Formation Swimming. Many swimming this, the most literally eye-opening of our pools in Chinese gyms are divided into two observations, it appears the towelis nowan lanes, with the wider lane occupying outdated concept. For now The Nanjinger perhaps two-thirds of the pool. This is can introduce the world’s latest and greatest reserved for swimming lessons, practice, completewaste of electricity. children and horseplay. The narrower lane is reserved for the serious swimmers and there And they don’t just dry the hair on their head; then are strict rules of etiquette to follow. come the legs, armpits; even the slippers.

15 Alone in Our Anxiety? The Interesting Times in which We May Live

We interupt our regularly scheduled program of aaaaggghhhhhh.....

ByTriona Ryan

16 o feel accepted. To feel secure. To flourish in includes over 40 books and a plethora of online Tlife is a common goal for one and all right resources. The main goal is to promote mental now. That which fuels the soul is a valued health resilience during the pandemic; it is also commodity these days, in the “interesting times” designed to meet the distinct needs of different in which we live. demographic profiles within China’s population. Online platforms and mobile apps make accessing Commonly referenced as the English translation for this information easy, anonymous and personalised. a Chinese curse, “May you live in interesting times”, Different resources have been crafted for, “children, does not actually have a direct translation. The pregnant women, the elderly, patients with mental closest Middle Earth equivalent may be “Better to be disorders and/or major physical diseases” (Ju et al.). a dog in times of tranquility than a human in times of chaos”(寧為太平犬，不做亂世人), suggests The Similar guidelines and online resources have been Grammarphobia Blog. The expression originates made available across the globe. In Ireland, online from Volume 3 of the 1627 short story collection by counselling, phone lines and text support have Feng Menglong, “Stories to Awaken the World”,and been made available through theTurn2Me , has been doing the rounds of the internet this past MyMind and Shine initiatives, among many others. year as we try our utmost to live our best lives in the Mind.org.uk offers easy to navigate resources, as pandemic of the century. does Rethink.org which names the mental health fallout related to COVID as The Silent Pandemic, The mighty Wikipedia tells us Zeitgeist is, “the which affects, “what we love to do, where we want defining spirit or mood of a particular period to be and who we want to be with”. of history as shown by the ideas and beliefs of the time”. As the season of toads on the road The World Health Organization (WHO) opens its approaches once more, borders closed, birds flying mental health resources for the pandemic by around with blue face masks entangled on their stating, “Fear, worry, and stress are normal feathery bodies, the spirit of this age is dominated responses to perceived or real threats, and at by viruses, vaccines and anxiety. Living in interesting times when we are faced with uncertainty or the times is not all we thought it would be. unknown. So it is normal and understandable that people are experiencing fear in the context Thankfully, May is Mental Health Awareness of the COVID pandemic”. month, and the internet is hopping with resources to put the brakes on the frenetic chaos of the mind Great, that’s good to know. But many of us do not that is the new normal. The coronavirus pandemic know what this fear or anxiety actually looks like, has taken its toll on all of us, so this May, take tastes like and feels like. Particularly for those of us some time to check in with yourself and make self in China, feelings of guilt add confusion to the mix, care a priority. when friends and family back home are still in lockdown, or sick, or unemployed. As early on as 27 Jan, 2020, China’s Joint Prevention and Control Mechanism of the State It’s been a year since we returned to school, to Council (China’s central authority in response to restaurants and bars, to some semblance of COVID-19) published the national guidelines on normality. And yet, our normality used to involve mental health interventions in an attempt to cope oodles of travel, regular reunions and delectable with the widespread mental health needs arising deep dives into new destinations, the planning of from this pandemic. This four-tiered package which was half the pleasure.

17 Stripped of this, the expat populace is constantly The WHO has put together a list of some, but not swallowing a lump in the throat, a lump, like all of the manifestations of worry on steroids. gristle, that if we think too long on it makes us • Feelings of fear, anger, sadness, worry, gag. And while in Ireland, they are still traveling numbness, or frustration fromCosta del Kitchen toSanta Bathroom,a part of me still misses the time before COVID, • Changes in appetite, energy, desires, and interests when we were blithely oblivious to the privileges • Difficulty concentrating and making decisions we took for granted on a daily basis. • Difficulty sleeping or nightmares The spirit of the age is one of resilience, of positivity and seeing the bright side. But this can • Physical reactions, such as headaches, body be a double-edged sword when it means pains, stomach problems, and skin rashes. denying the very real feelings of overwhelm that Not only this, but preexisting conditions may swamp us at unexpected moments; Facebook also worsen, chronic physical and mental memories, births, deaths. And that’s only the conditions and addictions may also spike; tangible stuff. overworking, irritability, obsessive behaviour, The Centre for Disease Control in the US overindulgence, paranoia and avoidance; it’s recently reported that from August 2020– not just feeling worried. February 2021, “the percentage of adults with In times of depleted hope, which will come and recent symptoms of an anxiety or a depressive which will pass, the silent pandemic can be an disorder increased from 36.4 to 41.5 percent, isolating and heavy burden to bear. In the words and the percentage of those reporting an unmet of Martin Luther King, “Our silence becomes mental health care need increased from 9.2 violence”,when the stress, anxiety, fear and percent to 11.7 percent.” For those of you loneliness experienced is minimised, mitigated or blessed with ignorance as to what anxiety is, it dismissed. Sharing the feelings of undefined goes a little like this. disquiet is an act of benevolence. It makes Anxiety: “What if these 75,000 bad things everyone else struggling under the weight of the happen?” silent pandemic feel a little bit less of a loser. It allows friends and family to listen, to apply Me: “But they won’t happen.” unctures of tenderness and patience. It allows us Anxiety: “But what if they do? Or this other thing, all to feel a little less alone in these interesting that could happen too.” times in which we live.

Me: “Buaaah. No! I have nothing to be anxious The universe has been expanding since the about! What do I have to be anxious about?” moment it exploded into existence. We are all basically haunted atoms trying to make sense of Anxiety: “Things that were, things that are, and the chaos that is life. To feel accepted. To feel some things that have not yet come to pass.” secure. To flourish in life is a common goal for Living with anxiety is like constantly hearing the one and all right now. Jaws theme tune on repeat, but never seeing the You are not alone. fin in the water. It’s like having conspiracy theories, but only about yourself. It’s a Magic 8 We will now be returning with our regularly Ball that only turns up dreadful outcomes. scheduled program of aaaaggghhhhhh.

18 Legal notes from The Nanjinger in association with: D’Andrea & Partners Legal Counsel

ccording to Satya Nadella, CEO Microsoft, the pandemic has grams and so-called “mini-programs”,which also fall under accelerated digital transformation by almost a decade. The the regulatory scope. Adigital era has come to be. Secondly, data protection rules in various industries shall be Globally, there has been a push toward more robust rules to further detailed. Relevant industries and fields will further protect consumer data and privacy, as well as to safeguard formulate personal information protection regulations important information from corruption, compromise or closely related to their industries. For example, The People's loss, and China is no exception. Indeed, China's regulatory Bank of China has recently promulgated the Interim Meas- framework on data protection is in the process of update and ures for the Protection of Personal Financial Information, there has been significant progress in the field of data pro- outlining the requirements applicable to the life cycle of per- tection legislation in recent years. sonal financial information collected and processed by regulated financial entities and other institutions that process The new Civil Code, which entered force on 1 January, 2021, personal financial information. specifies the definition scope, protection requirements, civil liability, relevant rights of natural persons and other con- Last but not the least, the importance of data antitrust is be- tents of the right to privacy, as well as the protection of per- coming more clear. On November 10th, 2020, the State Ad- sonal information in eight articles. ministration for Market Regulation ("SAMR") promulgated the Anti-monopoly Guidelines in the Field of Platform Eco- Moreover, two additional and fundamental pieces of legisla- nomy (Draft for Comment). tion are expected to be enacted this year; Data Security Law and Personal Information Law. Together with the Cyberse- On the one hand, the Guidelines prohibit platforms from curity Law already in force, these will constitute the essential making use of data and algorithms to reach monopolyagree- legislative references for data protection. ments and prohibit platform operators from controlling data and other necessary facilities for platform economy and re- While the Data Security Law will establish various basic sys- fusing to trade with counter parties on reasonable terms. On tems for the administration of data security protection, the the other hand, the Guidelines regulate the abuse of users' Personal Information Protection Law, being the first special personal information by platforms by taking advantage of law on the protection of personal information of China, will their dominant position. It is noteworthy that on 10 April, introduce a more complete, comprehensive and systematic China’s State Administration for Market Regulation fined legal protection system for personal information. Alibaba ¥18.23 billion, in an anti-monopoly investigation that The great attention given to data protection is also reflected began in December 2020. The case signals the regulatory by certain trends which are aimed at increasing the security authorities will further strengthen the overall trend of anti- standards and strengths of protections in many respects. monopoly supervision in the field of platform economy. For instance, the supervision and law enforcement activities All of these trends reflect a sensibility on the protection of on the protection of personal information, as processed by personal data in the digital era, to which companies shall pay mobileApplications (APPs), continues to strengthen. In addi- much attention for compliance, in order to avoid legal liabil- tion to cracking down on the illegal collection and use of per- ities and severe administrative penalties, especially in the sonal information by APPs, the regulatory authorities also financial sector and other strongly regulated fields in which properly extend the same regulatory rules to applet pro- enforcement is strict.

DISCLAIMER This article is intended solely for informational purposes and does not constitute legal advice. Although the information in this article was obtained from reliable, official sources, no guarantee is made with regard to its accuracy and completeness. For more information please visit dandreapartners.com or WeChat: dandreapartners

19 Great Nanjingers (12) China’s Territorial Key Opinion Leader (KOL);

By Frank Hossack Li Shengjiao

Shengjiao (厉声教) was a famed university But Li was to really make his mark when the United Lisports star who went on to be advisor to Nations sat down in 1973 to attempt to ratify some China’s first Premier and key contributor to China kind of code for an updated version of the concept becoming party to the International Law of the Sea. that was “freedoms of the seas”, which dated from Born in Nanjing on 7 January, 1935, to parents of over 200 years prior. some influence, Li was almost bound to be destined Over nigh-on the following 10 years, Li put forward for some kind of greatness. The only question was to China’s position as a major player in the talks to exactly the nature of his calling. confirm what would become the United Nations While Li’s mother was a pianist of quite some note, Convention on the Law of the Sea. his father had earned himself the the nickname, With China back in the UN since 1971, Li was a key "China's Mahatma Gandhi".As a pioneer in cultural player in the negotiations which were to lay down exchanges between China and Europe in the 1930s, today’s international maritime law. With the law’s Li Linsi helped Jews to evade persecution as World influence on global politics, economics and security War II unfolded, so that they may settle in Shanghai. difficult to overstate, Li’s legacy was secured when But first, the younger Li need get an education. he was received twice by Premier, Zhou Enlai, in Choosing the unusual major of economic geology, recognition of his efforts. Li was sufficiently distracted to excel at sport. Li’s influence in international circles was present in Ultimately becoming table tennis champion of other diplomatic exchanges through the 1970s, China's Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Li used his time at particularly China's ping pong diplomacy and the Nanjing University to rise to sporting province. A historic visit to China by then US President, Richard regular in the Nanjing municipal teams for both Nixon, in 1972. football and basketball, Li also went on to be basketball coach for the aforementioned Ministry. Over a 40 year career, his expertise in the field of border demarcation also saw Li involved in Sport aside, many of his contemporaries labeled Li drawing the map of today’s China, through as a future leader and one of the brightest stars negotiations with India, Myanmar, North Korea shining in Nanjing University. and the former Soviet Union. Exceptions are often made for people of such While Nanjing’s other notable maritime influence, potential. For Li’s talents had caught the attention of Zheng He, may have put Nanjing on the map in the Ministry, which went to great lengths as to terms of exploration, it was Li who gave the entire reserve him a position prior to his graduation. Hence nation a voice at the table to agree worldwide Li was able to say he was one of the rare few to be standards for countries’ sea borders. retained by the Ministry without being either a member of the Communist Party or the Communist After his death on 6 August, 2017, Li was named as Youth League. a “pillar of the nation” by Chinese authorities.

3. Mosques of Nanjing and the Community they Helped Foster

Jizhaoying Mosque (吉兆营清真寺) , above, was designed by Ma Xiaodong (⻢晓东), a graduate of Nanjing's Southeast University's Dept. of Architecture and designer of the Shenzhen Mosque. Images courtesy Xie Wenchao

osques are easy to find due to their tall Today, Hushu’s mosque still operates, catering minarets, as some of the clearest visible largely to foreign students in neighbouring Msymbols of Muslim communities. universities, while both Liuhe’s and Zhuzhen’s native populations have held onto official signs But in China, however, the Arab architectural denoting their Hui minority villages. approach with onion domes and tall skinny minarets is less common. Instead, many of Today however, the locals only identify ethnically as Nanjing’s and early Chinese mosques are a Hui and original mosques are largely shuttered. reflection of traditional Chinese architectural In the 18th and 19th centuries, the groundwork laid elements, with complex tiling, curved roofs and by Nanjing Muslim intellectuals, such as Liu Zhi multiple buildings within a courtyard-like design. and Wang Daiyu, who re-introduced and explained At the peak of its Muslim population, Nanjing was Islamic principles in terms of already well-known home to 36 mosques.Purportedly, the first was Confucian concepts, set the precedent for established in the Song Dynasty near today’s Fengfu Lu modern-day Chinese terms for Islam. and named Yikesong Mosque (一棵松清真寺), after the Their work led to the growth of the Nanjing-based ancient pine tree that stood near its entrance. Jinling (one of Nanjing’s old names) approach (金陵 In the Ming Dynasty, 11 mosques were built, while 学派/jinling xuepai) to jingtangjiaoyu (经堂教育)ora the Qing Dynasty saw an additional 24 established. formal Islamic institution. In the Republican Era, another 13 were built Multiple religious schools, typically affiliated to alongside five female Arabic/Chinese schools, operating mosques, were opened to educate Sino- with one more mosque added after the founding Muslims of religious principles, Arabic-language of PRC. learning and specific prayers, beginning with The quick and successive cropping up of such elementary-age students. spaces reflected the population’s growing needs Graduates would be expected to be able to lead or beyond dietary elements. Increasingly, local perform religious rituals and services for locals. A Muslims began seeking systematic responses to later column will address this unique trend and the spiritual, religious and emotional aspects. Chinese Islam’s unique Neo-Confucian-rooted And it was through the mosques and their related language, which began with Nanjing Muslims. services and institutions that these needs began The late 19th century and 20th century were periods of to be met. great destruction for Nanjing mosques. The Taiping On the outskirts of Nanjing, entire Hui villages grew in Rebellion alone burned or destroyed each of these 36 Liuhe District (六合区), Zhuzhen (竹镇) and Hushu (湖熟). mosques when Nanjing was under their control. 23 By Matthew Stedman

My Hipster Tea Glass Confessions of a Tea Opinion Leader

There are things I might perhaps do differently if I were Most people here love to see a foreigner drinking starting the Strainer column for the first time in 2021. Chinese tea. And most treat this as a compliment. But, to me, it does slightly feel a bit like an affectation, a I’m not saying I would be right to do them differently; cultivated eccentricity. It feels uncomfortably close to I’m not saying the results would be better. But let’s “personal branding”. scratch that counter-factual itch anyway. And, actually, the elevator companions least For one, I might be tempted to use the“Tea Opinion impressed by this wine glass are the people I’m Leader” moniker. The wholeKOL thing hadn’t kicked most eager to impress; the true tea fans. They look off in 2016. If starting this gig afresh, the pun might just down on the glass in my hand, not just as a be irresistible. cultural mashup or cupboard malfunction; for them, it’s an inferior way of extracting the best Another asset I might feature prominently would be the from good tea. image of Chinese-tea-in-a-wine-glass. They have a point. Drinking thus, I don’t drink I’ve never written down that combination of words until reverently. The tea I gulp while checking my emails is today, certainly not here. And I had never drunk tea probably tea too good for that context. Back in the UK, that way back in 2016. But if I am “famous” for anything I would be keeping such tea in a special box and in the company where I work, it is this tea glass of mine. photographing every tiny teacupful.

People see me in the elevatorwith it. People see it Yes, like a brandy glass, this glass does encourage a at my desk. I’ve even had it with me outside on fragrant magnificence to build above the liquor of a summer days.It’s a kind of metonymy for Matthew, Fujian red. But I still drink that liquor too fast. And I like a sheriff moustache would be, if only I could don’t stop reading the emails. grow a sheriff moustache. Anyway, last Friday was a quiet office day. I decided to My wine glass presents me as a tea drinker, a tea invite a colleague who was introducing two great addict, a foreign enthusiast of Chinese tea. I’m fine with teas. Instead of giving everyone wine glasses, I aired that. It starts conversations which often end up with my office gongfu tea set for the first time in months. drinking more tea. This, I hoped, would establish my seriousness- credentials. I didn’t pour very professionally, but the I tell people the truth, which is that when I started here, tea really sang from the correct brewing vessel. A the only glasses in our office kitchen were wine happy occasion. glasses, ready for our Swiss boss to lay on an impromptu drinks reception.I used wine glasses for tea Drinking tea and writing Strainer, I’ve had so many in the absence of an alternative. Then, after breaking such encounters these 5 years. I’m grateful I can one in public, I was given (a nice) wine glass as a gift. I indulge myself this way. I hope my lovely wine glass use that one (and I look after it) as a tribute to that kind long remains part of my drinking kit. But this subject is friend and that friendship. much bigger than one cool prop.

Jiuhua Shan & Chizhou; Female Buddahs &

TTHE rip By Frank Hossack Negative Oxygen Ions

Should we, or should we not, ascend Jiuhua Shan to pay homage at a Buddhist shrine?Tough decision. After all, we’re from Nanjing and therefore know a thing or two about climbing hundreds of steps to see a dead fella. But it turned out the dead fella was in fact a woman. And she was also the first female Buddha in all of China, no less. But we are getting ahead of ourselves. Before ascending anything, one first has to get to Chizhou. And that’s a piece of cake; an hour and a bit from Nanjing South Railway Station into southern Anhui Province. Oh yes, we are now in the vicinity of Yellow Mountain.

After arriving in Chizhou, you will first notice how relaxed you feel. And there’s a good reason for that; the excellent air quality that makes Chizhou top for atmosphere quality in Anhui Province.

Then there is the Negative Oxygen Ion content that is 35 times higher than fresh air standards defined by the World Health Organisation.Negative ions are believed to produce biochemical reactions that increase levels of serotonin, helping to alleviate depression, relieve stress and boost our daytime energy.

In short, the air in Chizhou makes people feel magical.

It’s green too. In Chizhou, there are 17.5 square metres of green space for every citizen, or space enough to park two cars. Such a high proportion of green also gives rise to the freshest local produce around.

And nature’s abundant bounty does not end there. Those in the construction industry will be interested to know that around Chizhou are 100 million tons in reserves of calcite, essential for the marble in many of today’s greatest buildings.

26 With downtown Chizhou in the distance, Nanjing’s Xuanwu Lake can eat its heart out

Such diversions aside, people more than anything come to Chizhou as the stopping off point on their way to surely thet op stop on an essential tour that is Jiuhua Shan, one of the four sacred mountains of Chinese buddhism and one of the first batch of 5A level scenic spots.

Here, the breathtaking scenery is also home to some of the oldest temples around; Huacheng Temple, taught people tirelessly, until chestwas flat, and herlower body which dates back more than 1,500 passing away at the age of 85. was long and seamless. years (and where the incense is the finest we have ever sniffed); and And that’s when things get really In death, this ordinary bhikkhu Tonghui Temple, resting place of interesting. Or rather, they would, had become a Bodhisattva. And Abbess Renyi. some 3 years and 2 months later. there is no other record of such an For 2 January, 1999, was to go occurrence anywhere else on Earth. Born in 1911 in Shenyang, today the down in history. On that day, the Renyi remains enshrined there capital of Liaoning Province, real- temple’s abbot and master today, in gold. And it’s humbling to name, Jiang Sumin, devoted herself to bhiksuni, Si Shang, was to behold her. Daoismafterbecomingamonkin1940. uncover a world first. The Nanjinger made its trip up In somewhat of a contradiction, Si carefully opened the vat with Jiuhua Shan on an ordinary when the Korean War broke out, Renyi inside. He found her sitting weekday morning. By 9am, there she served with the Chinese upright. Her hair had grown more were already long queues of cars People's Volunteer Army and was than an inch. Her teeth were intact, awaiting opening time, when stationed in North Korea in 1951. her nails long, the pores of her skin they would (very, very) slowly clear and her body still flexible. Later in life, regardless of age, begin to snake their way up the Renyi travelled extensively to Removing the shroud, Si then mountain.Take our word for it; practice medicine, build temples, found the kicker. There was no getting there early and being at do good deeds and make friends. trace of female characteristics. the head of the queue is the When back on Jiuhua Shan, she Her breasts had disappeared, her only way.

However, none of these things matter much in a local; especially your local. These things are all forgiven with the same readiness you overlook a scuff on your most comfortable and trusty shoes.

So why would the good citizens of the south side bother to come north (well, west really) to visit a Pukou “local?” The answer is beer, and good beer. Unparalleled boasts 12 taps of craft beer, some of which are changed regularly.Frank, the owner, has a breweryin the city (Unparalleled Brewing). As you might expect, a few of his are always on tap, and very good they are too.

HOSTELRY By Matt Ford Are You Beer Enough to Dare Cross the Yangtze River?

hen I came to Nanjing and settled in Pukou, I had little W expectation of finding a qualitybar nearby, and certainlynot one with a good range of draft beer. Having visited the usual suspects in the city centre, I resigned myself to the fact I would be crossing the Yangtze every time I wanted a pint of something decent. This would mean crossing the Yangtze a lot. However, there are plentyof others besides.Typically, nine or ten are Chinese and two orthree are foreign.Whilst manyare high in alcohol content,which is sadlytypicalin China, there are usuallyseveralmore suitable options for those wanting to indulge in a lengthy beer session without making the next day one full of regret. Prices are reasonable compared with some of the more central bars. If you consume two pints (well, not quite pints) before 9 pm, you will be rewarded with a glass of Cold Eyes IPA, albeit a small one.

Sensibly, they do not try to do an extensive menu. The focus is on burgers. These are none too shabby and are, of course, accompanied by the ubiquitous polythene gloves, which I eschew immediately. The half dozen or so varieties available include American, Hawaiian, Sausage and Foie gras. A simple selection of sides includes fries, a sausage platter and fried pieces of chicken. So it came as a surprise and a relief to stumble across Unparalleled, The food is good value, and whilst it might be worth a trip out for a a mere 15 minutes’ stroll from my apartment. I may not even have burgerwith a beer on the side, in mymind, it is more about a trip out noticed it, had it not been for a number of empty kegs deposited for a good few beers with a burger on the side. around its outdoor seating area. I have not tried the cocktails, but only because I enjoy the beer too This is a local bar in both senses of the word. It is local to me, much. Unfortunately (for some, at least), smoking is common in the thank goodness, but it is also to some extent what the British bar, but at quieter times it is not such an issue. Usually at least one would consider, “a local”. It is comfortable and attractive, but not member of staff speaks English and menus are bilingual. pretentious or flashy. On some days, it is full soon after opening, and on other days it remains quiet. It attracts a predominantly As sister pub of Hermit, this bar is wellworth crossing to the north young crowd, probably on account of its proximity to the side, particularly if you like decent beer. For my money, it is Nanjing Tech Metro Station. better than Hermit, but then, it is my local. In fact, I think I’ll head The bar staff get to knowyou and look after you. You feelwelcome, over there right now. Which shoes to wear…? Yes, of course, the but not unduly fussed over. You don’t mind that one day you may ones with the scuff. Cheers! come in at 6 pm, to find yesterday’s glasses are still all over the bar. You certainly don’t much fancy walking to the malodorous public Unparalleled Kitchen & Bar is located at 1F, Bldg 2, lavatory around the corner. Mingfa NewTown Centre, 11 PukouAvenue, Pukou. Parents, grandparents, ayis and friends joined EtonHouse Nanjing's EarlyYears and PYP students, as they shared their learning and life at school. Smiles, happy faces and pride were EtonHouse Nanjing in abundance as students assumed responsibility for leading their families through a range of classroom activities, reflecting on chosen work samples and discussing their progress, along with future learning goals. 28 April, 2021

To see photos from your event on these pages, contact The Nanjinger via [email protected]. Conditions apply. 31 With the warmth of an early summer, RGS Guildford, Nanjing also ushered in the school's first sports meeting. While students of primary and secondary schools walked into the dazzling sunshine, foreign and Chinese teachers discussed with them the skills behind sprinting or throwing balls. Competition with each otherwas foughtwith sweat, to win honour for their college or grade, with the joy and passion of struggle together. 8 May, 2021

To see photos from your event on these pages, contact The Nanjinger [email protected] . Conditions apply. 32 St John’s enjoyed the warming weather out and about in town last month. Class trips took them to various locations to explore theme-related activities, including a fire station, dinosaur museum, kite flying, tree planting and a butterfly park, amongst others. Children and teachers alike, enjoyed the change of scenery and a new place to discover and explore. Where the next trip take them? April, 2021

33 The Association of China and Mongolia International Schools (ACAMIS) Football Tournament hosted at Nanjing International School was full of action-packed duels between the 6 regional schools. It was a great three days of teamwork, personal bests, and sportsmanship. GOAL! 22-24 April, 2021

To see photos from your event on these pages, contact The Nanjinger [email protected] . Conditions apply. 34 BSN takes a strong stance against all forms of bullying and stands in solidarity against those who try to bully others. During Anti- Bullying week, which culminated on Friday with PINK DAY, the The British School of school interlinked themes of “Be an Upstander, not a Bystander” and “Lend a Hand”. 7 May, 2021 Nanjing

Download this map to your smartphone via The Nanjinger’s official WeChat account

The Nanjinger’s Metro Map is the only map of the city’s metro system to include first and last times for every station, perfect for planning a late night out or an adventure to somewhere newwith an early start.