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L'attenzione Per La Cina

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L'attenzione Per La Cina Corso di Laurea magistrale (ordinamento ex D.M. 270/2004) in Lingue e istituzioni economiche e giuridiche dell’Asia e dell’Africa mediterranea Tesi di Laurea L’attenzione per la Cina Le strategie delle aziende di moda online Relatore Prof. Franco Gatti Correlatore Prof. Francesca Checchinato Laureando Valentina Vacondio Matricola 823133 Anno Accademico 2014 / 2015 ! Indice: ……………………………………………………………………………………………… 1 Introduzione……………………………………………………………………. 5 Capitolo I………………………………………………………………………… 6 1.1 Internazionalizzazione nei mercati emergenti: il caso della Cina... 6 1.1.1 Ambiente storico-economico………………………… 6 1.1.2 Metodologie d’entrata delle aziende in Cina…... 7 1.1.3 Flagship store………………………………………………. 10 1.2. Il consumatore cinese……………………………………… 11 1.2.1 I primi consumatori……………………………………… 11 1.2.2 Il mercato del lusso attuale…………………………… 12 1.2.3 Segmentazione dei consumatori……………………. 14 1.2.4 Il consumatore del 2020………………………………... 17 1.2.4.1 Il gusto cinese……………………………………………. 18 1.3 L’arrivo delle aziende di moda in Cina e i relativi aspetti socio-economici ………………………………………………. 20 1.3.1 Democratizzazione del lusso…………………………. 20 1.4 Adattamento e standardizzazione……………………. 22 1.4.1 Concetto di standardizzazione e adattamento... 22 1.4.2 La scelta delle aziende di moda……………………... 23 1.4.3 Aumentare la brand awareness……………………. 25 1.4.4 La scelta geografica……………………………………... 26 Capitolo II…………………………………………………………… 27 2.1 Nuovi metodi comunicativi utilizzati dalle aziende di moda …. 27 2.1.1 Il mercato del lusso in Cina dal 2012 al 2014... 27 2.1.2 Nuovi metodi di comunicazione…………………… 29 2.1.3 Altre novità nel mercato del lusso………………... 41 ! 1! ! 2.2 Come comunicare con il consumatore sulla piattaforma e- commerce………………………………………………………….. 45 2.3 Differenze tra e-commerce occidentali e orientali………… 54 Capitolo III…………………………………………………………. 58 3.1 Metodo di analisi di un sito web……………………... 58 3.2 Risultati………………………………………………………... 72 4 Conclusioni……………………………………………………… 75 5 Glossario…………………………………………………………. 78 6 Ringraziamenti………………………………………………… 79 7 Bibliografia………………………………………………………. 80 ! 2! ! ! 3! ! 。LBA LBu r LALKd LL VnAA G u LL u X AKu d O VnO LB KaO u 2 LAKSK uU AL K LHMAK ! 4! ! L L i. L AAAAL P AK 。A L iL LB dBd AuAd dGr m u LA U 。 L Lr AK ! 5! ! Ldm uL LALu K KK ddBdi r L LK KAK KuuLA deLL 7 uLL AK 3 1..00 AK LAnAK uLmL 5 77 i AAL BL uHr uLAAL LLu ! 6! ! LL rLA L uL Lr L ! 7! ! ! 8! ! Introduzione L’elaborato si pone l’obiettivo di delineare quali brand di moda sono più attivi sul mercato online cinese. Per raggiungere lo scopo è necessario investigare quali web strategy vengono utilizzate dalle aziende di settore. Partendo dalla situazione socio-economica che ha permesso l’entrata delle aziende di moda sul suolo cinese, si delineeranno le modalità d’ingresso utilizzate in passato da quest’ultime. Il consumatore cinese è in un primo momento il veicolo tramite il quale il lusso entrerà in Cina, trasformandosi poi nel fulcro delle attenzioni dei brand occidentali. Nel primo capitolo si tracceranno le caratteristiche dei principali gruppi di consumatori di beni di lusso attuale, descrivendo in un secondo momento il consumatore cinese del futuro. Il concetto di democratizzazione del lusso introdurrà il dibattito tra standardizzazione o adattamento, dibattito che ogni brand di moda si trova ad affrontare ogni qual volta ci si inserisca in un nuovo mercato. Il primo capitolo si concluderà descrivendo quali scelte geografiche sono state operate da parte delle firm del settore. Il secondo capitolo parte dalla situazione attuale del mercato del lusso in Cina per avviare un discorso sulle nuove forme di comunicazione utilizzate dai brand. L’ultimo paragrafo di questo capitolo esamina il tema della comunicazione con il consumatore sul web. È in questa sezione che si parlerà per la prima volta di e-loyalty, questo concetto verrà ripreso nel terzo capitolo quando si analizzeranno le singole parti che compongono un sito web. L’ultimo tema trattato dalla tesi è l’analisi pratica dei siti web di 60 aziende di moda. La ricerca parte dall’esposizione della letteratura inerente al metodo d’analisi dei siti web. Dopo aver formulato l’ipotesi alla base della ricerca si proseguirà selezionando un campione e sviluppando le categorie di contenuto che verranno analizzate. Saranno poi fornite le schede di decodifica per esaminare i dati ottenuti. Infine si lascerà spazio ad un commento dei risultati e alle limitazioni della ricerca affrontata. ! 9! ! 1.1 Internazionalizzazione nei mercati emergenti: il caso della Cina • 1.1.1 Ambiente storico-economico Per riuscire ad esporre in modo esaustivo il processo di internazionalizzazione delle aziende di moda nel mercato cinese è prima necessario parlare del percorso economico cinese durante questi ultimi anni. La Cina a partire dagli anni Ottanta attraverso la riforma economica promossa da Deng Xiaoping,la cosìdetta riforma della porta aperta(Kāifànggǎigé ), ha visto la nascita del libero commercio. Grazie ad una serie di riforme operate in tre fasi (Zanier, 2013)culminate con l’entrata della Cina nella WTO nel 2001, è oggi possibile parlare di internazionalizzazione nel mercato cinese. La costituzione di quattro zone economiche speciali (ZES) all’inizio degli anni Ottanta ha incoraggiato gli investimenti esteri.Dato il loro particolare regime indipendente, le ZES godono diuna tassazione inferiore e procedure amministrative e doganali più semplici. La posizione delle Zes non è stata scelta a caso, parliamo di zone che si trovano nelle vicinanze dei più grandi snodi commerciali (vicino alle coste e a Hong Kong). Le ZES (Shenzhen, Zhuhai, Shantou nel Guangdong e Xiamen nel Fujian) serviranno per testare la riuscita di riforme politiche ed economiche che, nel caso in cui dovessero risultare di successo, verranno estese a tutto il territorio cinese. Sonoil primo passo reale di apertura all’occidente. Negli anni Novanta la Cina sarà seconda solo agli Stati Uniti in materia di investimenti esteri diretti (IDE),ma gli stessi Stati Uniti verranno superati nel 2002. Per quanto questi successi siano innegabili la regolamentazione cinese presenta ancora molte rigidità. Non è possibile costituire aziende a sola partecipazione straniera, le aziende sino-straniere saranno limitate alla sola produzione, imprese locali e a partecipazione stranierasaranno soggette ad una tassazione differente. D’altro canto solo le aziende cinesi con diritto d’import/export possono operare nel settore del commercio estero. È possibile costatare da soli quanto difficile e intricato fosse il percorso d’entrata nel mercato cinese negli anni Novanta. Gli investitori inquesti anni avevano come fine ultimo o la produzione in loco finalizzata alla ri-esportazione o la produzione e vendita direttamente nel mercato locale. ! 10! ! I grandi passi in avanti in materia commerciale operati dalla Cina in soli dieci anni non erano ancora sufficienti per beneficiare al massimo del potenziale inespresso. Il punto di cesura per la Cina si è presentato nel 2001 con l’adesione alla WTO. Questo passo ha sigillato l’apertura del paese verso il commercio estero in termini sia di import che di export. Alla base di questa decisione c’è la voglia da parte del Governo cinese di allinearsi con politiche economiche globali, liberalizzare il commercio e gli investimenti, una migliore regolamentazione degli scambi commerciali operati in un ambiente trasparente privo di zone grigie, ed infine la possibilità di sviluppare aziende cinesi competitive nel mondo. Molti settori fino a quel momento in mano solo a imprese cinesi vennero aperti anche alle imprese straniere aumentando il volume degli investimenti stranieri in Cina. L’entrata nella WTO portò nel 2005 all’abolizione dei dazi doganali sulle merci importate, segno di una reale volontà di far parte del villaggio globale. È in questo scenario economico che le prime aziende di moda fanno il loro ingresso nel mercato cinese. • 1.1.2 Metodologie d’entrata delle aziende in Cina Il consumo dei beni di lusso in Cina rappresenta il volume di consumo più vasto di tutto il mondo, soprattutto quando si parla di beni di lusso riguardanti la moda. È bene sempre ricordare che la Cina è uno Stato ”variegato” dato sia la sua grandezza che la sua diversità regionale. Bisogna conoscere l’ambiente economico nel quale si vuole operare data la sua complessità attuando strategiead hoc. È possibile dividere le metodologie d’internazionalizzazione in tre differenti alternative: Esportazione, collaborazione con controparti cinesi o insediamento produttivo. Qui di seguito saranno riportate le principali metodologie adoperate dalle aziende di moda nell’entrata in Cina(Lu, 2010): • Direct import • Importer • Subsidiaries • Joint ventures • Duty free activity ! 11! ! • Licensing Con Direct import si presuppone l’utilizzo da parte del brand di lusso di negozi che distribuiranno luxury good in modo esclusivo, sicuro ed economico. Questo metodo può essere utilizzato da brand che ancora non hanno una clientela affezionata e un target preciso. In questo modo il marchio è presente nel mercato ma può aspettare e valutare come evolve la situazione. In Cina non esistono moltidepartment store-company con un nome noto e affidabile al quale rivolgersi. Altre sono le aziende in grado di fornire un servizio di un livello adatto a un luxury brand straniero. Il più rinomato è Parkson fondato in Malesia ma presente sul territorio cinese dal 1994. Si rivolge ad una clientela chiamata middle-upper class ed è molto conosciuto
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