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Assisi Embroidery Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery By Diana Snyder Stitch Diagrams by Linda Reinmiller Education Department Embroiderers’ Guild of America Technique Basics: Introduction to Assisi Embroidery was created for the Embroiderers’ Guild of America which retains full copyright of the materials in this form. Copyright of the text is held by Diana Snyder. Copyright of the diagrams is held by Linda Reinmiller. This publication may be downloaded, printed, copied, and distributed for personal use in its original form. This document, in whole or in part, may not be published or offered as a download from any website, in whole or in part, digitally or in print, without written permission. Copyright 2019 The Embroiderers’ Guild of America, Inc., Education Department Author: Diana Snyder Stitch Diagrams: Linda Reinmiller Cover : Assisi Squirrel, 2019 by Diana Snyder Needle and thread icon: Freepix from Flaticon Embroiderers’ Guild of America Louisville, Kentucky egausa.org Technique Basics: Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Table of Contents History of Assisi Embroideries ……………………………………………………………. 2 Materials …………………………………………………………………………………… 3 Fabrics, Threads and Needles ……………………………………………………… 3 Supplies ……………………………………………………………………………. 3 Preparing Sampler Fabric …………………………………………………………………... 4 Beginning to Stitch ………………………………………………………………………… 4 Techniques ………………………………………………………………………………… 4 Cross Stitch (modern) ……………………………………………………………… 5 Reversible Cross Stitch ……………………………………………………………... 5 Italian Cross Stitch …………………………………………………………………. 6 Long Armed Cross Stitch …………………………………………………………... 6 Holbein, Double Running Stitch …………………………………………………… 6 The Assisi Design …………………………………………………………………………... 7 Stitching from the Chart …………………………………………………………… 7 The Motif ………………………………………………………………………….. 7 The Borders ………………………………………………………………………... 7 Squirrel and Border Chart ………………………………………………………………….. 8 Enlarged Holbein Border …………………………………………………………………... 9 Finished Piece …………………………………………………………………………….. 10 Assisi Embroidery from the EGA Collection ……………………………………………... 11 References and Additional Reading ……………………………………………………….. 12 Detail, Assisi Napkin Case Italian, circa 1910 EGA #00102 Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 1 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Technique Basics: Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Welcome to the Technique Basics Program and this segment on Assisi embroidery. This notebook lesson is to introduce you to the world of Assisi embroidery and how it has changed through the centuries. You are encouraged to try each of the different background techniques and insert your samples in a plastic sleeve(s) so you can later refer to both sides. Trying different fabric counts and thread combinations and labeling each will also give you additional references in your notebook. The squirrel and acorn design is to be stitched in your preferred Assisi technique and either inserted in your notebook or completed as a project of your choice. Please read the instructions regarding materials and supplies, checking the chart as to fabric and thread selections prior to making your purchases. You may have some of these items in your “personal stash.” History of Assisi Embroidery Assisi embroideries are easily recognized by their outlined voided designs, cross stitched backgrounds and border of double running stitches known as Holbein. Although the technique is centuries old, the term “Assisi” identifying these embroideries was first started in the late 1800s due to their association with Assisi, Italy. Church altar cloths of the 13th to 14th century show some of the first examples of the technique. The motifs in that era included stylized birds and animals with geometric and oriental designs worked on white linen with one color of silk thread. The common colors were red, blue, brown, yellow or green. Later, from the 15th to 17th centuries, the embroideries featured Biblical scenes and mythological motifs with detailed ornamental borders. The background technique was a long-armed cross stitch or Italian cross with backstitch or cross stitch accentuated details within the design. Reverse embroidery (cross stitch) was used for linens when both sides would be visible. Outlines of the motifs were one color and the backgrounds a second. The borders were elaborate free surface stitches. Some of the color combinations included black outline with green or red background, rose with blue, and slate with gold. Motifs in the next two centuries were revised to be stylized animals, plants, and simplified traditional motifs along with a change from ecclesiastical to secular projects. The techniques became all counted with cross stitch backgrounds with an elaborate Holbein border. Today’s Assisi has a cross stitched background with an outlined motif and Holbein border. The design and colors are the stitcher’s choice. When used on linens, traditionally, Assisi is finished with a row or two of pulled four-sided stitches for a border, then a narrow-rolled hem. Often a group of 3 small tasseled loops are placed at the corners of a pillow or pincushion or along edges of scarves and curtains for ornamentation. Authentic Assisi embroideries adorn linens and clothing and are identified with the Franciscan x or heraldic emblem of Assisi. Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 2 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Materials Select the fabric count and thread in colors of your choice from the following chart. White or off-white linen or cotton evenweave (not Hardanger or Aida) is recommended. The thread should be similar in weight as the fabric thread and tightly twisted such as floss, flower thread or pearl cotton. The tapestry needle should easily go between the fabric threads, without distorting the fabric. The needle’s eye needs to be large enough to insert the thread, but not so small it “wears” the thread thin. The stitched design shown is stitched on 28 count off-white linen with rust and brown Danish flower threads. Fabrics, Threads and Needles Linen – count of choice – one piece 8” x 10” or two pieces One for the four different technique samples 5” x 7” (smaller pieces of different counts may be used) One for Assisi with Holbein border 7” x 8’ (design size on 28 count is 3 ¼” x 4”) Threads – 2 colors – one skein each (contrasting values) Sewing thread – light color for marking Fabric Count Tapestry Needle Thread Number of strands to use 18 - 22 24 Stranded cotton 2 - 3 (floss) #16 cotton a broder #8 pearl cotton Flower thread or equivalent Stranded silk 25 - 28 26 Stranded cotton 2 (floss) 1 #20 cotton a broder 1 Flower thread or equivalent 2 Stranded silk 32 - 36 28 Stranded cotton 1 (floss) or Stranded silk 1 #25 cotton a broder Supplies Wrapped hoop, appropriate size Tapestry needles sizes, 24, 26, 28 Chenille needles sizes 24, 26, 28 Plastic sleeve(s) to insert samples in notebook Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 3 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Preparing Sampler Fabric Overcast the edges of your fabric piece(s) prior to stitching. Determine the placement of five areas for your sampler and using sewing thread with running stitches mark the areas. The technique examples will each require a minimum area of four rows of stitches with each row approximately 3 inches long. (Stitches are all over two fabric threads in height, except the Italian cross which is over three.) The five samples of stitching may be on individual pieces of fabric. The squirrel motif, stitched in your preferred background technique, with the Holbein border requires at least 4” x 5”. Beginning to Stitch Begin stitching by taking three or four tiny running stitches over one fabric thread each in an area that will later be covered with stitches. (If you are using the reversible cross stitch, use a waste knot and come back later to carefully secure it under your cross stitches using your sharp chenille needle and piercing the existing threads.) End your threads by tacking securely under the existing stitches. In-line waste knot Techniques In each area marked on your fabric for the background technique examples, work four rows of stitches. Each row should be approximately three inches long. This is sufficient to see the pattern of stitches and determine which one you wish to use for the Assisi design. The stitch diagrams markings are as follows: Stitch: Stitch length shown over threads of fabric Arrow: Stitch direction Numbers: First row sequence of stitches Letters: Second row sequence of stitches Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 4 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Cross Stitch (modern) – worked over two fabric threads Reversible Cross Stitch (15th – 17th C) – worked over two fabric threads Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 5 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Italian Cross Stitch (earliest examples were worked over three fabric threads, today they may be worked over 2, 3 or 4 threads). This project is graphed and worked over two threads. Long Armed Cross Stitch – two fabric threads high, short arm over two threads, long arm over four threads Holbein, Double Running Stitch – used for outlining the motif and the border. Note: A straighter line appearance is achieved by having the second journey worked on a slant - coming up above the previous stitch and going down below the next stitch as diagrammed. Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 6 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery The Assisi Design With sewing thread or one strand of stranded cotton, baste using a running
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