Assisi Embroidery

Technique Basics

An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery

By Diana Snyder Stitch Diagrams by Linda Reinmiller

Education Department Embroiderers’ Guild of America

Technique Basics: Introduction to Assisi Embroidery was created for the Embroiderers’ Guild of America which retains full copyright of the materials in this form.

This publication may be downloaded, printed, copied, and distributed for personal use in its original form. This document, in whole or in part, may not be published or offered as a download from any website, in whole or in part, digitally or in print, without written permission.

Author: Diana Snyder Stitch Diagrams: Linda Reinmiller

Cover : Assisi Squirrel, 2019 by Diana Snyder

Needle and thread icon: Freepix from Flaticon

Embroiderers’ Guild of America Louisville, Kentucky egausa.org

Technique Basics: Introduction to Assisi Embroidery

Table of Contents

History of Assisi Embroideries ……………………………………………………………. 2 Materials …………………………………………………………………………………… 3 Fabrics, Threads and Needles ……………………………………………………… 3 Supplies ……………………………………………………………………………. 3 Preparing Sampler Fabric …………………………………………………………………... 4 Beginning to Stitch ………………………………………………………………………… 4 Techniques ………………………………………………………………………………… 4 Cross Stitch (modern) ……………………………………………………………… 5 Reversible Cross Stitch ……………………………………………………………... 5 Italian Cross Stitch …………………………………………………………………. 6 Long Armed Cross Stitch …………………………………………………………... 6 Holbein, Double Running Stitch …………………………………………………… 6 The Assisi Design …………………………………………………………………………... 7 Stitching from the Chart …………………………………………………………… 7 The Motif ………………………………………………………………………….. 7 The Borders ………………………………………………………………………... 7 Squirrel and Border Chart ………………………………………………………………….. 8 Enlarged Holbein Border …………………………………………………………………... 9 Finished Piece …………………………………………………………………………….. 10 Assisi Embroidery from the EGA Collection ……………………………………………... 11 References and Additional Reading ……………………………………………………….. 12

Detail, Assisi Napkin Case Italian, circa 1910 EGA #00102

Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 1 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Technique Basics: Introduction to Assisi Embroidery

Welcome to the Technique Basics Program and this segment on Assisi embroidery.

This notebook lesson is to introduce you to the world of Assisi embroidery and how it has changed through the centuries. You are encouraged to try each of the different background techniques and insert your samples in a plastic sleeve(s) so you can later refer to both sides. Trying different fabric counts and thread combinations and labeling each will also give you additional references in your notebook. The squirrel and acorn design is to be stitched in your preferred Assisi technique and either inserted in your notebook or completed as a project of your choice.

Please read the instructions regarding materials and supplies, checking the chart as to fabric and thread selections prior to making your purchases. You may have some of these items in your “personal stash.”

History of Assisi Embroidery

Assisi embroideries are easily recognized by their outlined voided designs, cross stitched backgrounds and border of double running stitches known as Holbein. Although the technique is centuries old, the term “Assisi” identifying these embroideries was first started in the late 1800s due to their association with Assisi, Italy. Church altar cloths of the 13th to 14th century show some of the first examples of the technique. The motifs in that era included stylized birds and animals with geometric and oriental designs worked on white linen with one color of silk thread. The common colors were red, blue, brown, yellow or green. Later, from the 15th to 17th centuries, the embroideries featured Biblical scenes and mythological motifs with detailed ornamental borders. The background technique was a long-armed cross stitch or Italian cross with backstitch or cross stitch accentuated details within the design. Reverse embroidery (cross stitch) was used for linens when both sides would be visible. Outlines of the motifs were one color and the backgrounds a second. The borders were elaborate free surface stitches. Some of the color combinations included black outline with green or red background, rose with blue, and slate with gold. Motifs in the next two centuries were revised to be stylized animals, plants, and simplified traditional motifs along with a change from ecclesiastical to secular projects. The techniques became all counted with cross stitch backgrounds with an elaborate Holbein border. Today’s Assisi has a cross stitched background with an outlined motif and Holbein border. The design and colors are the stitcher’s choice. When used on linens, traditionally, Assisi is finished with a row or two of pulled four-sided stitches for a border, then a narrow-rolled hem. Often a group of 3 small tasseled loops are placed at the corners of a pillow or pincushion or along edges of scarves and curtains for ornamentation. Authentic Assisi embroideries adorn linens and clothing and are identified with the Franciscan x or heraldic emblem of Assisi.

Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 2 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Materials

Select the fabric count and thread in colors of your choice from the following chart. White or off-white linen or cotton evenweave (not Hardanger or Aida) is recommended. The thread should be similar in weight as the fabric thread and tightly twisted such as floss, flower thread or pearl cotton. The tapestry needle should easily go between the fabric threads, without distorting the fabric. The needle’s eye needs to be large enough to insert the thread, but not so small it “wears” the thread thin. The stitched design shown is stitched on 28 count off-white linen with rust and brown Danish flower threads.

Fabrics, Threads and Needles Linen – count of choice – one piece 8” x 10” or two pieces One for the four different technique samples 5” x 7” (smaller pieces of different counts may be used) One for Assisi with Holbein border 7” x 8’ (design size on 28 count is 3 ¼” x 4”) Threads – 2 colors – one skein each (contrasting values) Sewing thread – light color for marking

Fabric Count Tapestry Needle Thread Number of strands to use 18 - 22 24 Stranded cotton 2 - 3 (floss) #16 cotton a broder #8 pearl cotton Flower thread or equivalent Stranded silk 25 - 28 26 Stranded cotton 2 (floss) 1 #20 cotton a broder 1 Flower thread or equivalent 2 Stranded silk 32 - 36 28 Stranded cotton 1 (floss) or Stranded silk 1 #25 cotton a broder

Supplies Wrapped hoop, appropriate size Tapestry needles sizes, 24, 26, 28 Chenille needles sizes 24, 26, 28 Plastic sleeve(s) to insert samples in notebook

Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 3 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Preparing Sampler Fabric

Overcast the edges of your fabric piece(s) prior to stitching. Determine the placement of five areas for your sampler and using sewing thread with running stitches mark the areas. The technique examples will each require a minimum area of four rows of stitches with each row approximately 3 inches long. (Stitches are all over two fabric threads in height, except the Italian cross which is over three.) The five samples of stitching may be on individual pieces of fabric. The squirrel motif, stitched in your preferred background technique, with the Holbein border requires at least 4” x 5”.

Beginning to Stitch

Begin stitching by taking three or four tiny running stitches over one fabric thread each in an area that will later be covered with stitches. (If you are using the reversible cross stitch, use a waste knot and come back later to carefully secure it under your cross stitches using your sharp chenille needle and piercing the existing threads.) End your threads by tacking securely under the existing stitches.

In-line waste knot

Techniques

In each area marked on your fabric for the background technique examples, work four rows of stitches. Each row should be approximately three inches long. This is sufficient to see the pattern of stitches and determine which one you wish to use for the Assisi design. The stitch diagrams markings are as follows:

Stitch: Stitch length shown over threads of fabric

Arrow: Stitch direction

Numbers: First row sequence of stitches

Letters: Second row sequence of stitches

Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 4 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery

Cross Stitch (modern) – worked over two fabric threads

Reversible Cross Stitch (15th – 17th C) – worked over two fabric threads

Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 5 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Italian Cross Stitch (earliest examples were worked over three fabric threads, today they may be worked over 2, 3 or 4 threads). This project is graphed and worked over two threads.

Long Armed Cross Stitch – two fabric threads high, short arm over two threads, long arm over four threads

Holbein, Double Running Stitch – used for outlining the motif and the border. Note: A straighter line appearance is achieved by having the second journey worked on a slant - coming up above the previous stitch and going down below the next stitch as diagrammed.

Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 6 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery The Assisi Design

With sewing thread or one strand of stranded cotton, baste using a running stitch between the fabric threads along the horizontal and vertical centers going over 5 threads, under 5 threads, etc. These threads will assist in counting but should be removed just prior to stitching in that area.

Stitching from the Chart

The design chart is graphed with each square equaling 2 threads or 1 stitch. Note: Darker graph lines are spaced, every 10th line (equal to 10 stitches.) Stitch diagrams, including the Holbein border, show each fabric thread.

The Motif

Using the lightest of your two colors, start with the background cross stitches in the upper left hand corner using the technique you prefer – cross, Italian cross, reversible cross or long armed cross. There are no compensating stitches on this design except when using the long armed cross stitch. Note: When compensating stitches are necessary, lay your thread across the fabric as though you were going to complete the stitch, look to see where it crosses the edge of the design and put the needle through the fabric at that point. Using the darkest of your two colors, outline the design with double running stitches, continuing into the voided area to add the details of the figure. Do not carry threads across unstitched areas.

The Borders

First: One row of cross stitches is placed two threads away from the background.

Second: Holbein stitches are two threads away from the cross stitch rows. The branches are worked in the first journey. The stitch order of a segment is on the enlarged chart on page 9. Turn your work when necessary to follow the stitch sequence.

The chart for the squirrel and border is on page 8.

Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 7 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Squirrel and Border Chart

Each square equals two fabric threads

Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 8 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Enlarged Holbein Border

Enjoy your Assisi embroidery learning and stitching adventure.

Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 9 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Finished Piece

Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 10 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery Assisi Embroidery from the EGA Collection

Assisi Napkin Case Italian, circa 1910 EGA #00102

Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 11 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery References and Additional Reading

Accademia Punto Assisi. Perugia, Italy: Fondazione Casa Risparmio, 2015

AnonumeBossert, Helmuth. Folk Art of Europe. New York, NY: Rizzoli, 1990

Cornelius, Rosemary, Peg Doffek and Sue Hardy. Exploring Assisi. Ellington, CT: Self-Published, 1976 de Dillmont, Th. Assisi Embroidery. Mullhouse, France: Dollus-Mieg & C Societe, 1972 (reprint)

DMC Library. Assisi Embroideries. Mullhouse, France: Dollus-Mieg & C Societe, 1954

DMC Library. Assisi. Mulhouse, France, 1974

Fairfield, Helen. Counted Thread Embroidery. New York, NY: St. Martin’s, 1987

Giotti, Donatella. Complete Corso Di Ricamo. Milano, Italy: Fabbri Editori Milano, 2006

Gostelow, Mary. Embroidery: Traditional Designs, Techniques, Projects and Patterns from All Over the World. New York, NY: Arco Publications, 1983

Ness, Pamela Miller. Assisi Embroidery. New York, NY: Dover, 1979

Nuova Enciclopedia dei lavori Femminili. Milano, Italy: Edizioni Mani Di Fata, 2000

Punto Assisi. Assisi, Perugia. Italy: Editrice Minerva, 1999

Ricami d’Assisi, Album 1. Milano, Italy: Casa Editrice Mani Di Fata, 1973

Ricami d'Assisi Volume 1. Milano, Italy: Casa Editrice Mani Di Fata, 2001

Ricami d'Assisi Volume 2. Milano, Italy: Casa Editrice Mani Di Fata, 2002

Ricami d'Assisi Volume 3. Milano, Italy: Casa Editrice Mani Di Fata, 2003

Thomas, Mary. Mary Thomas’ Embroidery Book. New York, NY: Dover, 1983

Variety, Book No. 4. Boston, MA: Carmela Testa Co., Inc., 1927

Embroiderers’ Guild of America, 2019 12 Technique Basics An Introduction to Assisi Embroidery