. Step-by-step stitches and techniques for hand and machine stitching -----Dorothy Wood

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I southwater CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION 6

MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT 8 PREPARATION FOR HAND STITCHING 10 OUTLINE AND COMPOSITE STITCH ES 14 BAND AND BORDER STITCHES 22 RAI SED STITCHES 26 EDGING AND INS ERTION STITCHES 28 I SOLATED STITCHES 30 FILLING STITCHES 34 SHISH A WORK 42 RIBBON EMBROIDERY 43 COUNTED-THREAD EMBROIDERY 46 COUNTED-THREAD STITCHES 48 ASSIS I EM BROIDERY 56 57 60 PULLED -FABRIC EMBROIDERY 62 DRAWN-THREAD WORK 64 R USSIAN DRAWN-THREAD EMBROIDERY 66 NEEDLE WEAVING 67 68 NEEDLELACE 69 72 BEADWORK 76 HA ND - STITCHED APPLIQUE 78 MACHINE EMBROIDERY 80 THE SEWING MACHINE 88

I NDEX 94 TEMPLATES 95 SUPPLIERS AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 96 INDEX

che~lIer stitch 5-1 fabrics 8 chequered 16 co l{)urin~ 10 chevron stem sti to:h 40 coullted-thre,td embroidery 46 chevton stitdl 25 mao:hine embroidery &5, RI) raised chevnm stit..::h 26 Em stitch 55 - closed 23 6110.::), herringbone stitch 24 dosed Cretan stitch 20 fancy stitch 37 closed {eHher stitch 14 feather stitch 14 cl oud filling stitch 37 dosed feather ~titch 14 coll (ilIing stito:b 63 double feather stitch 14 l'olour washing 11 fC;lthered chain stitch 17 colouring t~\ brk 10 teet, sewing machines 82, 1)2 compo~ite stitches 14-21 felt co!'... l stitch 15 gold work 72 corded BrlL'':cl l..::s stitch 71 machine embroidery 85 cording fnot , m;ll'hinc emhrnidel'Y R2 fi lling stitches 34- 41 cordonnets, needlel,\l'e 61) fir stitch 55 cords fi shbone stitch 34 goldwork 72 opcn fis h bone stitch 36 Aida fabrk 46 machine-wrapped 82 flowers, rihhon embroiden' 44-5 IIlterl;u.:ed i n~ertio n stitch 29 Antwerp edging stitch 28 cotton thread$ 47 Hr stitch 31 ' knotted insenion stitch 29 ,Ipp!iquc 78--IJ 21 frames 8, 13 looped edge insertion stitch 29 Assisi embroidery sn battlemcnt couching -11 freestrle machine embroidery 8.1-£1 interlaced herringbone stitch 25 he.-td\\'l)rk 76 rreez~t paper, applique 79 - iTlterhlCed insertion stito:h 29 h;Kk ~lildl 1g Bokhara clHxhing' 39 French knot 30 i~ll1ated stitches 30-3 hlackwork 57 goldwork 73 ' thn:adl.:d hack stitch 18 pendant couching 21 gohclin ~titch 50 jagged spirals, machine emhroidery 84 whippl.:d back ~tirch 18 Romanian l'()uching 39 plaited gohclin stitch 51 Japan gold 72 h,mo sti tches 22- 5 couo:hing 21 gold kid 72, 75 hasket tilting Hitch 34 trellis c(luching 38 gllldwork 72-5 kid, goldwnrk 72, 75 batik 10 l'ounted-thre;\d e;nhroidery 4£1- 55 griffin stitch 39 kloster blocks, Hardanger embroidery batth:mcnt couching 41 Cre tan stitch 20 gutta, re~ i st-d)'eing 10 60-1 heads 8 closed Cft'tan s t it~h 20 kni tting stitch 52 bl.:;,dwork 76-7 Cretan open tilling stitch 40 h,llf cross stitch 49 knot ,.; ti tch, double 15 bhu,:kwork 57-9 open C rct:)n stitch 20 h,lIf RJlOdes stitch 52 knots 22 n ewel wool 47 H ardanger embwidcr\' 60-1 bullion 30 h t ) bhin ~. sewing Illadlincs 90 cro~s stitdl 21, 48 11 ard,mger bhric 46 ' french 30 Bokh;mt cOllching 31) Assisi emhroidery 56 heavy chain stitch 17 knotted huttonhole stitch 22 border stitches 22-5 broad crus,.; stitch 'W hem stitch 64 knotted cahlc stitch 15 braids, goldwork 72 half CTOSS stitch 49 herringbone stitch 24 bHllted insertion stitl'il 2(} brick sc ild) 34, 50 long-.tfllIt:d cross stitch 48 douhle herringhone stitch 25 hrichvork. gllldwork 74 upright Cf(lSS stitch 48 l;lI1c)" herringhone stitch 24 Hitch 61 broad cross stitch 4(} crow's t(lOt 33 intcrla..:ed herringbone stitch 25 laced herringbone stitch 24 brllllcric anglais 68 cushion stitch 5.1 laced herringbone stitch 24 ladder stitch 23 13rllxellcs stitch 70 reverse cllshion stitdl 50 thteaded herringbone stitch 24 h1ltice band, raised 27 hugle beads 77 o:unvork, Hardangl.!r embroidery ()O- l tied herringhone stitch 25 lal.)' dais), stitch 31 bullilll1 knot 30 H olbein stitch 56, 57, SR leaf stitch 36 buttunho!t: stitdl 22 designs, transferring 12-1.1 honeycomb filli ng stitch 40 linen, counted-thread embroidery 46 blltftlnholc wheel 32 detached wheat-car stitch 37 hoops 8, 13 lin en ~ti t ch 49 clo.~ed hutttllllltlle ~titch 23 di,tmond stitch 23 machine embroidery 83 long and short stitch 35 double buttonhole ~tito:h 22 di,llllond strai~ht stitch 51 H ungarian stitch SI long-armed cross stitch ..l8 knotted buttonhole stitch 22 double Bruxelles sti1l:h 70 long-tailed lazy daisy stitch 31 Russ;;ln drawn tlITeMI 6£1 double huttonhole stitch 22 insettion stitches 29 1\1\1(1 texhl!C, machine embroidery 85 double chai n stitch 16 looped edge insertion stitch 29 c;lhlc stiCl'h 17 douhle fc;uhcr stitch 14 looped edging stitch 28 knMlcd cable stitd'1 15 double herringbone stitch 25 canv,ls double knot stitch 15 mach ine embroidery 80--7 wunted-thrcad emhnlidery 46 drawn-thread work 64-7 ~ewing machines 88- 93 46 needle weaving 67 miIC hine-wrapped cords 82 captive rice st itch 53 Russian nmwn thre,td £16 masking techniques 11 carhon, dressmaker's 12 dycs, resist techni~uc s, 10 Illetallic threads, goldwork: 72 Catherinc wheel 32 Mililne~e stitch 51 Ccylon stitch 40 edging stitches 28 mirror glass, work 42 chain o,lI1d, r:lisl.:d 26 Antwerp edgin~ stit cb 28 50 chain Hitch 16 looped edging ~titdl 28 tvlllllntmel1ick work: 68 chcquercd chain ~t it ch 16 equipment 8-9 muslin, machine embroidery 85 double ch,lin Hitch 1£1 goldwork 72 learhered ..:hain stitch 17 even -wea\'e fabrics 46 nel.:(\11.: weaving 67 he,l\'y chain stitch 17 eyelets ncedlclaee m - 71 r;lised dlain b;md 26 broderic <1ng-laise 68 needlepoint 46, ..l7 twisted chain stitch 16 counted-thre;\d work 55 needles 8 whipped Ch;lill stitch 17 pulled-f,lbrio: cmhroidery 6,1 oeadwt)rk 76 - I N 0 E X 95

machine embroidery 83 ribbed wheel 32 tied herringbone stitch 25 ribbon embroidery 43 ribbon 8 tr:lclng designs 12 ~cwing machines 91 , 93 ribbon cmbroidery 43- 5 l transterring designs 12- 13 netting, bead work 77 rice slir;.:h 53 tn.' lli s coudling 38 capti\'e ri re stitl'il 53 tririk 10 oblique filling 63 Roman filling burden stitch 38 twi ~ tcd ..:h.lin stitch 16 opcn Cretan stitch 20 Roman filling sti tl.:h 36 twisted lace filling ~t;tch 61 open fi shbone stitdl 36 Romanian couching 39 ou rl ine stitches 14- 2 1 nmlling ~ t it ch 19 uprip; ht ..:ross stitdl 48 ovcrcasting 66 whipped running stitch 19 Russian drawn thread 66 Vandykc stit..:h 23 padded sarin stitch 35 vault stit..:h 54 padding, goldwork 75 s;u in ~tit~ h 35 velvet stitch 54 pca stitch variation 71 couching 21 Vcnetian picot 28 Pekinesc ~ titc h 19 m;l<.:hinc embroider\' 86 vermicelli stitch, machine embroidery pendant couching 21 padded satin stitch ~'15 84 pens, traTlsfer 12 scallop stitch 55 1 Pcrsian ~ 47 sci~soTs 8 WltHc stitch 53 picot scroll ~tif(: h 15 water-soluble fabrics, IIIachinc Hard:lng-er embroidery 61 ~eed ing 36 sewing machines 88, 92, 93 cmbroidery 87 Venetian picot 28 sequins 77 sfm ight stitch 30 w:lVe stitch 62 plaited gobclin stitch 51 sewing machines 88- ';3 diamond stmight stitch 51 W,LX resist techniques 10 point d'An\'er~ 71 sheafstitch 27 lazy daisy stitch with 31 wheat-car stitch, detadlCd 37 po unce bags 13 shisha work 42 string, couching over 73 wh c el~ presser foot, machine embroidery 80 silk ribbon 8 striped woven band 27 buttonhole wheel 32 prick and pounce, transferring designs silk thrend 72 69 Catherine wheel 32 13 soluble fnbrics, machine embroidery 87 ribbed wheel 32 pulled -tabric cmbroidt'rr 62- .1 spirals, machine embroidery 84 . tapestry wool 47 woven wheel 32 )lunch stitch 62 split stitch 19 tension. ~ewing machines 92 whipped back Hitch 18 purl, g(lldwork 72, 7S sqwlTe tilling stitch e~ 38-9 tent stit<.:h 49 whipped chain stitrh 1i stamping; 11 tete de boeuf 37 wh ipped running stitch 1t) raised chain band 26 star stitch 52 textures, macbine embroidery 85 whipped treble Bruxelles stitl2h 71 raised chevron stitch 26 stem stitch 18 threaded b,lCk stitch 18 . whipping, mil~.' hin e embroidery 85 raised cup stitch 33 chevron stem stitch 40 threaded herringbone stitl.:h 24 whitewnrk 68 raised lattice band 27 raised stem stit ~h band 26 threads 8 w(l~) I. tapestry 47 raised stem stitch b:lIld 26 stepping, goldwork 74 beadwork 76 WO\'CIl bars, Hardanger embroider ~' 61 mised st it c he~ 26-7 stirehes "14-41 counted-thread embroidery 47 woven wheel 32 raw-edge applique 78 Assisi embroidery 56 drawn-thread work 64- 5 wr:lpped bars, H ardanger ray stitch 54 b la ~kw(lrk 57-!:s goldwork 72 embroidery 61 resist-dyeing 10 coullIed-thread embroidery 48-55 machine embroidery 80 reverse cllshion stitch 50 needlelace 7(}-1 threading :1 sewing machine t)0 zig,!.\g stitch, machine embroidery 81, Rhodes stitch 52 pulled f.d1fic 62-3 three-sided stitch 63 80,8R h,llfRhodes stitch 52 ribbon embroidery 43-5 tie-dycing 10 Templates

Blackwork, p.58

Mountmeliick, p.68