Basilicata: Italy's Best-Kept Secret

This copy is for your personal, non-commercial use only. Distribution and use of this material are governed by our Subscriber Agreement and by copyright law. For non-personal use, please contact client relations at 1-866-831-4314 or email [email protected]. THIS MONTH: DISCOVERIES IN SOUTHERN ITALY AND NANTUCKET ONLINE: INTERVIEW WITH FRANCIS MALLMANN FEBRUARY 2018 SINCE 1979 Traveling the world in search of truly enchanting places The old town of Matera, a collection of ancient troglodyte dwellings, some of which are now boutique hotels BASILICATA: ITALY’S BEST-KEPT SECRET Extraordinary hotels, untouched landscapes, distinctive cuisine asilicata is one of the most remote cooking style and some excellent little- and timeless atmosphere will doubtless Band least visited parts of Italy, but known wines. Its true gem is the town of be discovered by many more travelers during a recent road trip, we discovered Matera. Continuously inhabited for more when the city becomes one of Europe’s a fascinating and stunningly beautiful than 9,000 years, Matera is both a modern two Capitals of Culture in 2019. region that will remain long in the town, where most of its inhabitants Basilicata has no major airport of its memory. The sere southern Italian live today, and an old town, which was own, and its gateway is the city of Bari in landscape is marked by dramatic cocoa- originally a troglodyte settlement, with the neighboring province of Puglia. In the colored ravines, rolling fields of golden caves bored into the soft vanilla-colored early 20th century, Basilicata lost much wheat and white villages perched on limestone of a bluff. of its population through emigration, as hilltops that look like low clouds from afar. It is the recent emergence of Matera as mechanization decreased the need for ROMA OSLO / GETTY / E+ IMAGES Although one of Italy’s smallest an intriguingly offbeat destination that farmworkers. Lacking a significant port provinces, Basilicata can boast a sandy has put Basilicata on the map. And now and poorly served by rail, it became so coastline on the Ionian Sea, a distinctive is the time to go, since its eerie beauty isolated that Mussolini sent political Andrew Harper editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses. Since the launch of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report in 1979, the featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Junior suite, and entrance to Palazzo Gattini, Matera, the property that is best suited to those who prefer a more traditional style of luxury MANUEL ZUBLENA MANUEL prisoners to live there under house arrest and telephoned the hotel, which sent A visit to Matera requires a lot of during World War II. One of them was someone to collect us. walking, and many of its steep lanes Carlo Levi, an Italian-Jewish painter, Although a little rattled, I was imme- have long flights of steps. There is a writer, doctor and anti-fascist activist diately impressed by the beauty of the lot to see, including some magnificent from Turin. The book that Levi wrote property and the graciousness of the staff. rupestrian (underground) churches and about the extreme poverty he witnessed, Our attractive, well-lit junior suite had a MUSMA — Museum of Contemporary “Christ Stopped at Eboli,” caused such a vaulted frescoed ceiling, cream-painted Sculpture Matera. You should plan to scandal when it was published in 1945 walls and limestone floors. The bath came stay at least two days, preferably three. that the Italian government undertook a with a separate tub, two vanities and a A good guide is advisable, since so many massive program to remove the Materans stone counter. The best feature of these of the most interesting things here, from their cave homes and settle them into accommodations, however, was the view like the huge underground cisterns new housing. over the Sasso Caveoso neighborhood — that once contained the town’s water an astonishing settlement of houses built supply, are easily overlooked. So, after MATERA one on top of the other — and the austere a day of exploring on our own, we spent uring the past 10 years, Matera’s but majestic countryside surrounding an intriguing afternoon with a native Dold town has attracted artists and the town. (It is imperative to request a Materan, who made his town come alive writers, along with farsighted expatriates room with this view, since some overlook with a mixture of history, anecdote and who turned several of the abandoned courtyards and streets.) One suite has a insight (see story on Page 7). cave dwellings into hotels. I began my private outdoor plunge pool. visit at the 20-room Palazzo Gattini, The hotel has a good restaurant, Le rom the Palazzo Gattini, we moved to an 18th-century palace overlooking the Bubbole; a café; and a breakfast room, Fthe 18-room Le Grotte della Civita, cathedral. This property is the best choice where an excellent buffet is set up each the dramatic cave hotel that first captured for anyone who prefers traditional luxury morning. (Don’t miss the superb local the imaginations of adventurous travelers over anything more adventurous or rustic. cheeses and charcuterie.) A spa is located when it opened in 2009. A labor of love Reaching the hotel proved to be a in vaulted stone cellars that date to the for Swedish-Italian architect Daniele challenge, since the district in which it’s 14th century. As well as an indoor pool Kihlgren, the property includes an located is mostly pedestrian and difficult with a Jacuzzi, it offers a “floating room” ancient church, the Cripta della Civita, to navigate by car. It would have been in one of the original cisterns. (Magnesium now a public area. Its renovated rooms helpful if we had been told this in advance, sulfate is added to the water, which helps retain their original features, including but eventually we found a parking garage to create a zero-gravity effect.) stone mangers — many families in 2 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2018 Matera used to live with their animals Civita is a powerful and unique place, bedroom was furnished with a desk, a pair — niches, wells and basins. A friendly although a little disorientating at first. of armchairs and a large, freestanding staff member showed us to our grotto, “It’s like finding yourself living in the egg-shaped tub. In contrast to rooms at Cave 4, which came with stone walls, a middle of the Old Testament,” one the candlelit Grotte della Civita, it had vaulted ceiling and terra-cotta tile floors. woman remarked. excellent lighting. The bathroom came A spacious front room was furnished with an open stall shower and a large with a long antique farm table set with he new 10-room Il Palazzotto sink fitted into a rectangular stone basin a vintage linen runner, on which stood a Tstands at a point midway between that appeared to have been a manger in pitcher of filtered water, a bowl of fruit the conventional comfort of the Palazzo the past. Overall, our accommodations and a vase of wildflowers. The bedroom Gattini and the monastic quarters at seemed soothing, stylish and comfortable. provided a large comfortable bed with Le Grotte della Civita. Owned by a Il Palazzotto is more an upmarket an antique coverlet and an old-fashioned family from Matera who now resides in bed-and-breakfast than a hotel. There is chestnut armoire. The bath was equipped Luxembourg, it occupies a 16th-century no restaurant, although there is a large with a huge open shower and, in another palace, along with the caves, where tasting room, where guests can sample grotto, an egg-shaped soaking tub. Aside the owners’ servants and animals once the excellent Aglianico and Chardonnay from a single window, light came from lived. Its location is a short walk from wines that the Vitale family makes at the pillar candles. The intention has been to most of the town’s attractions. The clean, MANUEL ZUBLENA MANUEL preserve the rusticity of the cave dwellings contemporary look of the property is the while providing modern amenities such handiwork of architect, designer and as air-conditioning and Wi-Fi. (There are owner Katia Vitale. While respecting no televisions or telephones.) the beauty of the honey-colored stone Le Grotte della Civita is a On our first evening, we enjoyed walls and vaulted ceilings, she has added “powerful and unique place, an excellent dinner of pasta with hardwood floors, sensitive lighting and although a little disorienting mushrooms, and rabbit roasted with ebony-painted contemporary furniture. herbs. (Reservations to dine at the hotel We had booked the hotel’s Suite, since at first. ‘It’s like finding must be made in advance.) Afterward, it is reasonably priced. It proved to be yourself in the middle of the we joined the other guests outside on brighter and more spacious than the other the terrace for a nightcap. There seemed rooms, but it lacked the private balconies Old Testament,’ one guest to be a consensus that Le Grotte della that come with Double Deluxes. The remarked. Rooms and suites at Le Grotte della Civita, Matera, are housed within a series of troglodyte dwellings, which now come with Wi-Fi and air-conditioning. Above, view from the upper terrace. FEBRUARY 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 base of the Monte Vulture volcano, 75 like a film set than a place intended for and a damask-upholstered sofa. There miles northwest of Matera. There is also paying guests.

Load more