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THIS MONTH: DISCOVERIES IN SOUTHERN AND NANTUCKET ONLINE: INTERVIEW WITH FRANCIS MALLMANN

FEBRUARY 2018 SINCE 1979

Traveling the world in search of truly enchanting places

The old town of , a collection of ancient troglodyte dwellings, some of which are now boutique hotels

BASILICATA: ITALY’S BEST-KEPT SECRET Extraordinary hotels, untouched landscapes, distinctive cuisine

asilicata is one of the most remote cooking style and some excellent little- and timeless atmosphere will doubtless Band least visited parts of Italy, but known wines. Its true gem is the town of be discovered by many more travelers during a recent road trip, we discovered Matera. Continuously inhabited for more when the city becomes one of Europe’s a fascinating and stunningly beautiful than 9,000 years, Matera is both a modern two Capitals of Culture in 2019. region that will remain long in the town, where most of its inhabitants has no major airport of its memory. The sere southern Italian live today, and an old town, which was own, and its gateway is the city of in landscape is marked by dramatic cocoa- originally a troglodyte settlement, with the neighboring province of Puglia. In the colored ravines, rolling fields of golden caves bored into the soft vanilla-colored early 20th century, Basilicata lost much wheat and white villages perched on limestone of a bluff. of its population through emigration, as hilltops that look like low clouds from afar. It is the recent emergence of Matera as mechanization decreased the need for ROMA OSLO / GETTY / E+ IMAGES Although one of Italy’s smallest an intriguingly offbeat destination that farmworkers. Lacking a significant port provinces, Basilicata can boast a sandy has put Basilicata on the map. And now and poorly served by rail, it became so coastline on the , a distinctive is the time to go, since its eerie beauty isolated that Mussolini sent political

Andrew Harper editors travel anonymously and pay full rate for all lodging, meals and related expenses. Since the launch of Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report in 1979, the featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Junior suite, and entrance to Palazzo Gattini, Matera, the property that is best suited to those who prefer a more traditional style of luxury MANUEL ZUBLENA MANUEL

prisoners to live there under house arrest and telephoned the hotel, which sent A visit to Matera requires a lot of during World War II. One of them was someone to collect us. walking, and many of its steep lanes , an Italian-Jewish painter, Although a little rattled, I was imme- have long flights of steps. There is a writer, doctor and anti-fascist activist diately impressed by the beauty of the lot to see, including some magnificent from . The book that Levi wrote property and the graciousness of the staff. rupestrian (underground) churches and about the extreme poverty he witnessed, Our attractive, well-lit junior suite had a MUSMA — Museum of Contemporary “Christ Stopped at ,” caused such a vaulted frescoed ceiling, cream-painted Sculpture Matera. You should plan to scandal when it was published in 1945 walls and limestone floors. The bath came stay at least two days, preferably three. that the Italian government undertook a with a separate tub, two vanities and a A good guide is advisable, since so many massive program to remove the Materans stone counter. The best feature of these of the most interesting things here, from their cave homes and settle them into accommodations, however, was the view like the huge underground cisterns new housing. over the Sasso Caveoso neighborhood — that once contained the town’s water an astonishing settlement of houses built supply, are easily overlooked. So, after MATERA one on top of the other — and the austere a day of exploring on our own, we spent uring the past 10 years, Matera’s but majestic countryside surrounding an intriguing afternoon with a native Dold town has attracted artists and the town. (It is imperative to request a Materan, who made his town come alive writers, along with farsighted expatriates room with this view, since some overlook with a mixture of history, anecdote and who turned several of the abandoned courtyards and streets.) One suite has a insight (see story on Page 7). cave dwellings into hotels. I began my private outdoor plunge pool. visit at the 20-room Palazzo Gattini, The hotel has a good restaurant, Le rom the Palazzo Gattini, we moved to an 18th-century palace overlooking the Bubbole; a café; and a breakfast room, Fthe 18-room Le Grotte della Civita, cathedral. This property is the best choice where an excellent buffet is set up each the dramatic cave hotel that first captured for anyone who prefers traditional luxury morning. (Don’t miss the superb local the imaginations of adventurous travelers over anything more adventurous or rustic. cheeses and charcuterie.) A spa is located when it opened in 2009. A labor of love Reaching the hotel proved to be a in vaulted stone cellars that date to the for Swedish-Italian architect Daniele challenge, since the district in which it’s 14th century. As well as an indoor pool Kihlgren, the property includes an located is mostly pedestrian and difficult with a Jacuzzi, it offers a “floating room” ancient church, the Cripta della Civita, to navigate by car. It would have been in one of the original cisterns. (Magnesium now a public area. Its renovated rooms helpful if we had been told this in advance, sulfate is added to the water, which helps retain their original features, including but eventually we found a parking garage to create a zero-gravity effect.) stone mangers — many families in

2 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2018 Matera used to live with their animals Civita is a powerful and unique place, bedroom was furnished with a desk, a pair — niches, wells and basins. A friendly although a little disorientating at first. of armchairs and a large, freestanding staff member showed us to our grotto, “It’s like finding yourself living in the egg-shaped tub. In contrast to rooms at Cave 4, which came with stone walls, a middle of the Old Testament,” one the candlelit Grotte della Civita, it had vaulted ceiling and terra-cotta tile floors. woman remarked. excellent lighting. The bathroom came A spacious front room was furnished with an open stall shower and a large with a long antique farm table set with he new 10-room Il Palazzotto sink fitted into a rectangular stone basin a vintage linen runner, on which stood a Tstands at a point midway between that appeared to have been a manger in pitcher of filtered water, a bowl of fruit the conventional comfort of the Palazzo the past. Overall, our accommodations and a vase of wildflowers. The bedroom Gattini and the monastic quarters at seemed soothing, stylish and comfortable. provided a large comfortable bed with Le Grotte della Civita. Owned by a Il Palazzotto is more an upmarket an antique coverlet and an old-fashioned family from Matera who now resides in bed-and-breakfast than a hotel. There is chestnut armoire. The bath was equipped Luxembourg, it occupies a 16th-century no restaurant, although there is a large with a huge open shower and, in another palace, along with the caves, where tasting room, where guests can sample grotto, an egg-shaped soaking tub. Aside the owners’ servants and animals once the excellent and Chardonnay from a single window, light came from lived. Its location is a short walk from wines that the Vitale family makes at the pillar candles. The intention has been to most of the town’s attractions. The clean,

MANUEL ZUBLENA MANUEL preserve the rusticity of the cave dwellings contemporary look of the property is the while providing modern amenities such handiwork of architect, designer and as air-conditioning and Wi-Fi. (There are owner Katia Vitale. While respecting no televisions or telephones.) the beauty of the honey-colored stone Le Grotte della Civita is a On our first evening, we enjoyed walls and vaulted ceilings, she has added “powerful and unique place, an excellent dinner of with hardwood floors, sensitive lighting and although a little disorienting mushrooms, and rabbit roasted with ebony-painted contemporary furniture. herbs. (Reservations to dine at the hotel We had booked the hotel’s Suite, since at first. ‘It’s like finding must be made in advance.) Afterward, it is reasonably priced. It proved to be yourself in the middle of the we joined the other guests outside on brighter and more spacious than the other the terrace for a nightcap. There seemed rooms, but it lacked the private balconies Old Testament,’ one guest to be a consensus that Le Grotte della that come with Double Deluxes. The remarked.

Rooms and suites at Le Grotte della Civita, Matera, are housed within a series of troglodyte dwellings, which now come with Wi-Fi and air-conditioning. Above, view from the upper terrace.

FEBRUARY 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 3 base of the Monte volcano, 75 like a film set than a place intended for and a damask-upholstered sofa. There miles northwest of Matera. There is also paying guests. It provides a perfect base was also a large white painted armoire a spacious lounge and a small courtyard from which to explore the attractions of and a writing desk. Doors led to a small terrace. This property is suitable for those eastern Basilicata, including the sandy private terrace. The bath came with a who would like an experience of Matera’s beaches that line the Ionian Sea, the large claw-foot soaking tub, a marble- troglodyte past without forsaking the ancient Greek ruins at and lined steam shower and Florentine Santa comforts of modernity. , and the haunting town of , Maria Novella toiletries. which was finally abandoned after a major The hotel offers complimentary earthquake in 1980. bicycles for exploring Bernalda, as well rom Matera, we drove for 50 minutes On arrival, a valet took our car. Behind as a free shuttle to its private beach, Fsouth through farm country to the the big wooden door, chambermaids in which is 15 minutes from the hotel in good small town of Bernalda. There the nine- gray dresses and white aprons darted traffic. Yoga and Pilates instructors, as room Palazzo Margherita stands at across the courtyard. After a welcome well as in-room massages, are available one end of the small town’s main street. drink, we were taken on a tour of the upon request. After a pleasant bike ride The 19th-century mansion belongs to property to familiarize us with the around Bernalda, where the defunct , whose paternal swimming pool, the café with its long zinc- Cinema Paradiso made me think of this grandfather lived in Bernalda before he topped bar and the gorgeous walled garden gentle place as an Italian version of “The emigrated to the United States. When it with its spattering fountain. Upstairs, we Last Picture Show,” we had a quick dip opened in 2012, the hotel immediately were shown a sitting room that converts in the pool, followed by aperitifs in the put this unheralded area on the map. As into a screening room, where guests can garden before dinner. Alas, the meal was befits a property created by the director avail themselves of the hotel’s impressive underwhelming as well as expensive. We GUNDOLF PFOTENHAUER of “The Godfather,” it is a place of such movie library. ate out for the remainder of our stay. In beauty that it seems sometimes more Each room is decorated individually, many ways the Palazzo Margherita is but all come with the same array of high- idyllic, but the service can be a bit stiff, tech entertainment equipment. Since the and the rates are head-spinning for a rates are stiff, I’d booked a Garden Room, small Italian town. but we were upgraded to Suite Four, which Coppola’s daughter, Sofia, decorated in collaboration with French interior ur next stop was the 13-room Hotel designer Jacques Grange. It proved to be OTorre Fiore near Pisticci, a relaxed a refined and comfortable room, with a property in a 16th-century former fortified vaulted ceiling, frescoed walls, a chevron farm complex. It was created by members tile floor, a sitting area with rattan chairs of a Canadian family, the Giannones,

Gia suite bedroom, Roman suite bath, and courtyard at Palazzo Margherita, Bernalda PISTICCI: VALERIO MEI / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES | SANTAVENERE: PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

4 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2018 I had chosen this property as a place to relax at the end of our Basilicata journey. (It is a two-and-a-half-hour drive to the airport along the autostrada.) On arrival, a porter in a golf cart collected us from the parking lot and transferred us to the low-slung, whitewashed hotel. Inside, we discovered tiled floors, chintz- covered armchairs and sliding doors that opened onto a terrace overlooking the sea. Our spacious suite came with terra- cotta floors, wrought-iron light fixtures, framed lithographs and a lounge and bedroom that both offered access to a long private terrace. The bath was equipped Historic center of Pisticci with a Jacuzzi, a separate shower and double vanities. As we unpacked, a waiter who have roots in Basilicata. Pleasantly barley, oat flour and bran), followed by arrived with glasses of sparkling wine low-key and extremely friendly, the place a grilled lamb steak with wild herbs, and and a dish of cruschi, the dried sweet red charmed us immediately. Our suite in a light custard with baked figs. peppers that in Basilicata are frequently GUNDOLF PFOTENHAUER the former caretaker’s cottage had four offered as a snack. turrets, as well as two terraces from which After a casual lunch of pizza, we to watch the sunset. Inside our light, fterward, we headed to Maratea, a enjoyed a quiet afternoon reading in the spacious and peaceful quarters, we found Atiny resort town on Basilicata’s short shade of the pine trees by the pool and terra-cotta tile floors, whitewashed walls, Mediterranean coastline, approximately taking an occasional dip in the sea. The vaulted masonry and beamed ceilings. 110 miles south of Amalfi. The hotel has no fewer than four restaurants Artemide lamps and simple modern have kept the region pretty much for (and three bars), plus an excellent spa, furniture were mixed with antique themselves, and with forested hills tennis courts and a fitness center. pieces. Our white-marble bath came with dropping directly into the sea, it is Well-run, friendly and offering persimmon-colored tile accents, a soaking peaceful and very beautiful. excellent value for the money, the tub and a separate shower. Our destination was the 40-room Santavenere proved an ideal place to The hotel’s Patio della Torre restaurant Santavenere, a hotel with a dolce vita relax and reflect on our journey. Basilicata is one of the best in the region, and we atmosphere — it was built in 1956 and had exceeded all expectations. But it enjoyed a superb meal of tapparelle (an

PISTICCI: VALERIO MEI / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES was a celebrity favorite throughout the is unlikely to remain a secret for very

| ear-shaped local pasta) with tomatoes and ’60s — set in a lush, well-groomed park. much longer. H wild mushrooms, and roast pork stuffed with pancetta, pecorino, chile and nutmeg. View from our terrace at Santavenere, Maratea We also treated ourselves to an excellent bottle of Aglianico wine, made with a variety of grapes brought to the region by the ancient Greeks. After dinner, we sampled some Amaro Lucano (a locally made bitter) on the terrace and relished the wildflower-scented air. The following day, a 75-minute drive to SANTAVENERE: PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER the southwest brought us to chef Federico Valicenti’s wood-paneled restaurant, La Luna Rossa, deep in Basilicata’s National Park. Valicenti proudly preserves the region’s culinary traditions, and we enjoyed an excellent lunch of hearty mischiglio della Contea di (pasta made with a mix of ,

FEBRUARY 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 5 TRENTINO- ALTO ADIGE

FRIULI- VENEZIA GIULIA VALLE D' LOMBARDIA

Gulf of

BASILICATA NOTEBOOK EMILIA- ROMAGNA

Gulf of

Hotel Torre Fiore Old Town in Bari, Puglia

HOTELS AT MARCHEA GLANCE BARI: WHERE TO STAY AND DINE

ari is the gateway city to both Basilicata and Puglia, since it has the Ligurian Sea PALAZZO GATTINI A92 (MAP REF. 1) LIKE Polished service, comfortable rooms, first-rate spa and an excellent restau- B only airport in the area, as well as a regular train service to , rant. DISLIKE The center of town is mostly pedestrian, so you have to park at three hours and 40 minutes away. Most travelers overlook it in their hurry the hotel’s recommended garage and call for a transfer. GOOD TO KNOW When to reach towns like Lecce and Matera, but it is actually a pleasant place booking, request a room with a view of the Sasso Caveoso, the atmospheric old town. Junior Suite, $470; Suite, $750. Piazza Duomo 13, Matera. Tel. (39) 0835-334-358. with some excellent restaurants. Bari does receive pilgrims who come to palazzogattini.it the 12th-century Basilica Pontificia di San Nicola, where Saint Nicholas is buried, but there are few hotels of note. However, the recently renovated LE GROTTE DELLA CIVITA A91 (MAP REF. 1) 75-room art nouveau Hotel Oriente Bari has significantly raised the LIKE The hotel provides an intimate experience of what life was like in Matera before prevailing standard. Decorated in gray and ivory, our light and spacious World War II. DISLIKE Rooms can be dim, service is often more well-intended than professional and the hotel’s location means that a lot of walking is necessary when Junior Suite came with a pair of windows with Juliet balconies; a large, exploring the town. GOOD TO KNOW This is not a property for anyone with mobility comfortable bed; and a bath with a separate tub and shower. The hotel’s issues. Superior Room, $420; Suite, $600. Via Civita 28, Matera. Tel. (39) 0835-332- best facility is its rooftop terrace, where drinks are served in warm weather. 744. legrottedellacivita.sextantio.it Since the Oriente’s restaurant is of little interest, head for the excellent IL PALAZZOTTO 89 (MAP REF. 1) Ristorante Biancofiore (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 13) for dishes like LIKE Great location and attractively furnished rooms. The owner’s wines are also squash blossoms stuffed with seafood, and with red shrimp excellent, especially the white Fiano. DISLIKE The lack of a restaurant. GOOD TO and almonds. For something more stylish and refined, tryLa Bul (Via KNOW The family’s winery beneath the volcano is open to the public. Matrimoniale Deluxe, $320; Suite, $360. Via Sette Dolori 39, Matera. Tel. (39) 0835- Villari 52), where we enjoyed squid-ink with bottarga and citron 334-519. ilpalazzottomatera.it shavings, and salt cod with polenta and green-olive foam. Hotel concierges MOLISEoften recommend Ai 2 Ghiottoni; resist, as it is mediocre and expensive. BARI: JACEK SOPOTNICKI / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES

A93 (MAP REF. 2) | PALAZZO MARGHERITA FOR MORE INFORMATION ON HOTEL ORIENTE BARI (89), VISIT ANDREWHARPER.COM. LIKE Exquisitely decorated rooms; gorgeous private garden; complimentary bicy- cles. DISLIKE The service can be too formal and self-conscious; the food in the two FOOD: PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER 45 MIN (by air) restaurants is ordinary; room rates are vertiginous for a small Italian town. GOOD TO KNOW Book hotel-organized day trips in advance to avoid disappointment; the tour MILAN of the of Craco is especially recommended. Suite, $1,250. Corso Umberto BARI I 64, Bernalda. Tel. (39) 0835-549-060. thefamilycoppolahideaways.com ITALY ROME P UGLIA VULTURE HOTEL TORRE FIORE A92 (MAP REF. 3) WINE REGION LIKE Beautiful country setting, spacious and comfortable rooms, infinity pool, excel- 1 lent restaurant. DISLIKE The lack of a spa. GOOD TO KNOW Some rooms have HOTEL TORRE FIORE: LEONARDO working fireplaces.Junior Suite, $340; Superior Suite, $400. Contrada Terranova, MATERA Pisticci. Tel. (39) 0835-580-239. hoteltorrefiore.com BASILICATA 3 2 SANTAVENERE 89 (MAP REF. 4) PISTICCI BERNALDA LIKE Genteel and slightly retro atmosphere; beautiful views of the sea; friendly staff; C AMPANIA GULF excellent spa. DISLIKE The cooking in the hotel’s main Le restaurant is OF overelaborate and overpriced. GOOD TO KNOW Lanterna Rossa, the area’s best POLLINO NATIONAL restaurant, is a short walk from the hotel. Deluxe Room, $320; Junior Suite, $360. Via 4 PARK Conte Stefano Rivetti, Maratea. Tel. (39) 0973-876-910. santavenere.it T YRRH ENIAN MARATEA SEA A PRECEDING A RATING, DENOTES AN OFFICIALLY RECOMMENDED HOTEL CAL ABRIA THAT WILL BE ADDED TO THE ANDREW HARPER COLLECTION. A FULL ITINERARY OF OUR TRIP IS AVAILABLE AT ANDREWHARPER.COM

6 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2018

I ONIAN SEA

Mediterranean Sea

Strait of TUNISIA

Malta Channel Mediterranean Sea Wild greens at La Locandiera in Bernalda, and a plate of strascinati, a traditional pasta of Basilicata Aglianico grapes at Elena Fucci wine estate

FAVORITE BASILICATA RESTAURANTS BASILICATA’S VULTURE WINE REGION lthough the name of the province changed from to Basilicata many centuries ago, the region’s food A is still referred to as “Lucanian.” Basilicata is widely considered to have the best bread in Italy, because it rapes were introduced to is made with flour produced from local heirloom grain. The province also produces excellent olive oil, cheeses G Basilicata by the ancient — Podolico made from the milk of Podolico cattle is the star — and , including Greeks when they colonized the (dome-shaped pasta resembling little ears), (short, thin, twisted pasta), lagane (wide, thick ), area in the sixth century B.C. (ribbon pasta) and strascinati (larger orecchiette). Sun-dried red peppers grown near and This explains the name of the prov- known as cruschi are a regular condiment. Aside from excellent beef from cattle, the region also ince’s best-known grape variety, produces lamb, rabbit and a variety of game, including wild boar. Aglianico, which is derived from the Greek word “Hellenica.” The most LA CAMBUSA LA LUNA ROSSA OSTERIA important wine region extends This charming seafood restaurant A beautiful drive leads to chef SAN FRANCESCO around the Monte Vulture volcano is a short walk from the Santave- Federico Valicenti’s country Chef-owner Nicola Morcinelli’s in northwestern Basilicata. The nere hotel. The menu changes auberge, where excellent rustic restaurant with an open kitchen in DOC (denominazione di origine often, but look for dishes such Lucanian cooking is served. Look the heart of town is a perfect place controllata) red tuna tartare with caramelized for dishes such as with for lunch. Try hand-rolled trofie has gained a reputation for onions, seafood salad, and pasta a walnut sauce and black truf- pasta with Lucanian chiles and producing some of the finest with cherry tomatoes, mussels and fles, strascinati with red pepper, wild-boar ragu, followed by the wines in Italy. The richness of the baby clams. Booking is essential. ricotta toasts and crunchy pepper mixed grill of lamb, and flavorful volcanic soil and elevation of the

VIA SANTA VENERE 23, MARATEA. TEL. (39) Podolica T-bone for two. VIA DEL vineyards result in wines that,

BARI: JACEK SOPOTNICKI / ISTOCK / GETTY IMAGES flakes, grilled lamb steak with herbs

| 340-971-4623. on cicorietta (wild chicory) with CORSO 80, MATERA. TEL. (39) 0835- compared with other southern onions, and beef fillet with chestnut 336-454. Italian reds, are elegant but robust. FOOD: PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER LA LOCANDIERA honey, mint and Aglianico wine. DISCOVER OUR FAVORITE WINEMAKERS

A team of local women prepare VIA MARCONI 18, . AT ANDREWHARPER.COM.

sturdy, heartwarming local dishes TEL. (39) 0973-93254. at this homey restaurant with red-checkered tablecloths on the OSTERIA AL CASALE THE BEST GUIDE IN MATERA Come to chef Fabio Paolicelli’s main street in Bernalda. The menu local guide makes a visit to Matera much more rewarding. I asked

HOTEL TORRE FIORE: LEONARDO simple whitewashed dining room, follows the seasons but usually Italian friends for a recommendation, and three of them gave a favorite of the locals, to discover A offers stuffed squash blossoms, me the same name: Francesco Foschino. When we met at a café to just how good the food in Basili- tripoline with breadcrumbs and plan a half-day tour of the city, Foschino immediately delighted; his cata can be. Start with cavatelli crushed dried peppers, veal meat- English was excellent — he has traveled extensively in the U.S. — as with mushrooms and caciocavallo balls, and braised pork shank. Good was his sense of humor. He inquired about our interests over coffee cheese and then try the homemade wine list and gracious service. and then put together a fascinating afternoon tour. This included chile-seasoned grilled CORSO UMBERTO I 194, BERNALDA. TEL. several behind-the-scenes places, including a magnificently restored with broccoli rabe. Don’t miss the (39) 0835-543-241. cave dwelling that is not open to the public. Foschino makes his town ricotta, fig and hazelnut mousse come alive as only a proud native can. He is highly sought-after, so for dessert. VIA CASALE 24, MATERA. reserve his services as far in advance as possible. TEL. (39) 347-573-6470. TEL. (39) 0835-165-2525.

FEBRUARY 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 7 THE ENDURING APPEAL OF NANTUCKET Stylish new inns, enticing new restaurants

he word “Nantucket” most likely being preserved. In 1966, the Town of hedge fund moguls and Wall Street Tderives from a Wampanoag word Nantucket was designated a National executives. As a result, property values meaning “faraway land.” But despite Historic Landmark District for being have become stratospheric. On my recent its poetic name, the island lies just 30 the “finest surviving architectural and trip, a real estate broker told me that a miles from the south shore of Cape Cod. environmental example of a late 18th- two-bedroom starter home now begins RARE BRICK RARE Its glory days as a whaling port lasted and early 19th-century seaport town in at around $1.2 million. until the mid-1800s, when a double New England.” Over the years that I have been going punch of the harbor’s natural limitations Today its population jumps from to Nantucket, I have seen the number and a major fire brought an end to its 11,000 year-round to more than 50,000 of mansions increase exponentially. prosperity. In search of livelihoods, during the summer months. In contrast However, the steep price of land and strict many inhabitants left the island, which to neighboring Martha’s Vineyard, which local regulations help to ensure that the went into a Brigadoon-like period of gathers a crowd of artists, writers and island is not overrun. The Nantucket suspended animation. However, this journalists, as well as showbiz folk and Islands Land Bank levies a 2 percent fee exodus resulted in much of its architecture politicians, Nantucket tends to attract on most real estate transactions, money

Coskata-Coatue Wildlife Refuge on Nantucket Island, and Greydon House in the Town of Nantucket PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

8 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2018 that goes to preserving acreage for “open space, agriculture and recreational uses.” As a result, almost half the island is protected. A body called the Historic District Commission limits the colors for painting houses to a palette of only about a dozen shades. I once saw a T-shirt that said, “Turn left at the gray house with white trim,” which describes so many houses as to render the directions laughably meaningless.

he Greydon House opened in the Tfall of 2016 to enthusiastic reviews. Located at a choice corner location in the Town of Nantucket, just a brief walk from the ferry terminal, the 16-room inn brings together the old and the new in a way that you do not often see here. The old is a stately white 1850 Greek Revival structure that was once the office of the island’s physician; the new is an adjoining three-story building that was recently constructed in a Second Empire style with a mansard roof. Over the years, I have seen On entering the reception area, I was surprised by the color scheme of deep “the number of mansions blue walls with dark wood accents. The RARE BRICK RARE increase exponentially. space struck me as being antithetical to the brightness I expect in an island However, strict local regu - property. This same décor prevailed in the lations help to ensure that hallways and on the staircase. Our room, the island is not overrun. however, provided a welcome contrast, with multiple windows letting in a flood of light. Walls done in two-directional pleasant. Chef Marcus Gleadow-Ware, who shiplap wainscoting — both horizontal hails from New York’s Aureole, oversees and vertical — provided visual liveliness. the fine kitchen, and the restaurant And being painted white, it contrasted deservedly enjoys a loyal following on

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER strongly with the rich, warm hue of the island. We opted for a simple meal of the reclaimed chestnut floorboards. oysters, followed by succulent black bass. Aside from the bed, our room had a To have opened a new inn despite couple of small side tables and a rather Nantucket’s watchdog regulations is a uncomfortable sofa. The lighting was considerable achievement. Alas, I found meager, with two disc-shaped fixtures the dark public areas at Greydon House flanking the head of the bed, plus a small to be unappealing. And deficiencies in table lamp. The size of the room called our room, especially the inadequate for more illumination at night. The bath lighting, detracted from my enthusiasm came with a single vanity, a large counter, for the property.

a walk-in shower with a hand-painted Exterior, courtyard and room at 76 Main. mural and Aesop products. short distance away, 76 Main is The 20 accommodations occupy a restored sea captain’s house. Unusual for a property of this size, A situated on the town’s cobbled Greydon House has its own restaurant. principal thoroughfare, just steps from The main dining room is bright and shops, galleries and restaurants. Its

FEBRUARY 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 9 Bed and bath of our suite, lobby-lounge, and pool at the Inn at White Elephant Village

Despite its island location, “the Inn at White Elephant Village has many of the advantages of an upscale city hotel.

20 rooms occupy a restored former sea At 76 Main, we often felt as if we were room provided an ample desk and was captain’s house, with a white exterior staying as guests of a friend who knew our ideal for an afternoon read. The bath

and picket fence. Inside, accents and needs and strived to meet them. was equipped with a soaking tub and FOOD: PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER artwork support a nautical theme and a walk-in shower. | are complemented by grass-cloth wall have long recommended the White The inn does not have a restaurant, covering and exquisite woodwork. I Elephant hotel, a traditional property but a Continental-style breakfast is Attentive staff greeted us at the small on the harbor just outside of town. The served, as well as wine and cheese in reception, beyond which we found a summer of 2012 saw the debut of the White the late afternoon. Room service is library-lounge. Our room in the main Elephant Village, an inn and residences, available from the Brant Point Grill at house came with high ceilings, tall a six-minute walk away. the White Elephant hotel. And of course, windows and cream-hued walls. It was The inn is set within a renovated inn guests are welcome to dine there. furnished with two reading chairs, a building and comprises 20 rooms Unlike the original White Elephant,

seagrass rug atop polished hardwood and suites. The lobby and reception the inn has a swimming pool with MUSEUM: TOM CROKE / ALAMY STOCK floors, an ample chest of drawers and a area embody the property’s stylish, reservable cabanas. large desk. The relatively small bath had contemporary décor. On arrival, the front- The adjacent residences are ideal for a single vanity and a comfortably sized desk staff could not have been warmer families. The one-, two- or three-bedroom ROOM: PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER walk-in shower. or more professional. cottages come with kitchens and washers Although 76 Main does not have a Our suite (one of 14) had the soothing and dryers. They are done in an identical restaurant, it does offer a delightful café. color scheme of cream and putty found style to the inn and are served by the same This leads to a tree-shaded courtyard, throughout the property. It came with a congenial staff. Games (electronic and where there are chairs and tables, plus coffered ceiling, wall-to-wall carpeting traditional) are provided for children, couches for enjoying the fire pit in the and large windows with plantation and bicycles can be rented. evening. The inn provides a bar service of shutters. The bedroom offered crisp Despite its island location, the Inn at glasses, ice and mixers, so you are welcome linens, plenty of closet space and a big White Elephant Village has many of the to bring your favorite wines and spirits. chest of drawers. The separate living advantages of an upscale city hotel. H

10 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT FEBRUARY 2018 Mushroom risotto at Galley Beach

NANTUCKET NOTEBOOK INTRIGUING SMALL MUSEUMS RESTAURANT DISCOVERIES WHALING was happy to find the Nantucket dining scene as lively and as varied The Nantucket Historical Associ- I as ever. There are restaurants in all styles, featuring a variety of ation’s Whaling Museum explores cuisines. Not surprisingly, you will find seafood in abundance. Settings life on the island when the busi- ness ruled the local economy, range from beachside, to in-town romantic, to historic wharves. Even plus the arts and crafts to which though Nantucket is a small island, you won’t lack for choice. the industry gave rise. I recom- mend the all-access pass, which AMERICAN SEASONS by Joseph Keller, a distinguished runs right onto the sand. My rich will admit you to the museum The announcement in 2015 by chef who worked with his famous mushroom risotto was delicious. as well as other sites adminis- tered by the Nantucket Historical Michael and Orla La Scola that they brother, Thomas, on the open- And a main course of roasted Association. were selling their highly regarded ings of both The French Laundry halibut came in a broth enlivened

restaurant caused considerable and Per Se. Keller offers a single with clams and chorizo. 54 JEFFERSON LIGHTSHIP BASKET No handicraft is more closely dismay. But when the new owner three-course meal every night; AVENUE. TEL. (508) 228-9641. associated with Nantucket than was revealed to be Neil Ferguson the daily choices are published in the lightship basket. These were advance. We began with an exem- of the equally well-loved Galley STRAIGHT WHARF first made of rattan and were free- plary Caesar salad, followed by Beach, the furor began to subside. RESTAURANT form. Over time, they acquired moist, flaky swordfish. A luscious Ferguson continues to serve excel- This engaging place takes its the wooden base that gives them berry cake brought the evening to lent food in this charming, atmo- name from its location on one structure. When the whaling busi- a happy conclusion. The ebullient ness on Nantucket faded, many spheric place just a short walk from of the liveliest of the Nantucket Keller circulated the dining room former crew members served the center of town. We began with a wharfs, dating to 1723. Set in a and made a point of chatting with on lightships. With time at their chitarra pasta with fresh tomatoes, loftlike space, the restaurant also every guest. Reservations are disposal, some of these men ele- followed by a special of roasted has an outdoor area with views of vated the art of basket making. essential. 5 INDIA STREET. TEL. (508) duck breast. Service was excellent, the harbor. I opted for a starter of The museum has wonderful 228-4016. and the wine list is full of delights. pork belly and Nantucket clams, a displays outlining the basket’s evolution and of notable baskets 80 CENTRE STREET. TEL. (508) 228-7111. GALLEY BEACH wonderful combination augmented past and present. This airy restaurant has come a by kale, tofu and grilled bread in FOOD: PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER COMPANY OF THE CAULDRON long way from its 1958 origins as a luscious broth. I continued the SHIPWRECK | Cozily decorated in the style of a a humble clam shack. It now has pork-seafood theme with a main & LIFESAVING Among the most interesting French auberge, this place is owned a lively bar and a dining room that dish of seared scallops with bacon, exhibits at this museum are a wild mushrooms, caramelized corn surfboat used in rescues by the HOTELS AT A GLANCE and roasted tomatoes. 6 HARBOR Massachusetts Humane Society; SQUARE. TEL. (508) 228-4499. artifacts from the Andrea Doria, GREYDON HOUSE 89 which sank off the island in 1956; LIKE Excellent restaurant; rooms come with a lovely beach bag containing sunblock. FOG ISLAND CAFE and a wonderful film on Mildred DISLIKE The dark color scheme; smaller rooms are very small. GOOD TO KNOW Jewett, an island character who For a great breakfast, many people There is an elevator, which is rare for a small inn on Nantucket. Deluxe Room, $500; lived by the sea and obsessively Suite, $600. 17 Broad Street. Tel. (508) 228-2468. greydonhouse.com on Nantucket will tell you to head MUSEUM: TOM CROKE / ALAMY STOCK watched out for ships in distress. to Black-Eyed Susan’s. We did Her efforts saved many lives. 76 MAIN A91 LIKE The prevailing atmosphere of good cheer; the hospitable staff. DISLIKE They and were treated with less-than- Nantucket Whaling Museum forgot to give me the recipe for their chocolate chip cookies! GOOD TO KNOW The welcoming hauteur. So instead ROOM: PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER rooms around the courtyard tend to be larger than those in the main house but have we tried Fog Island Cafe, where relatively low ceilings. Main House Room, $330; Courtyard Room, $480. 76 Main Street. Tel. (508) 228-2533. 76main.com we were warmly welcomed. We sat down to a satisfying meal of INN AT WHITE ELEPHANT VILLAGE A93 blueberry pancakes, sausage, LIKE Guests have full access to the facilities, including the restaurant, at the White Elephant hotel. DISLIKE The otherwise inviting front porch looks onto the parking and endless cups of delicious area. GOOD TO KNOW The private parking is a real luxury in a town that is often coffee. The clam chowder at lunch extremely crowded. Deluxe Room, $495; Junior Suite, $570; Suite, $615. 19 North Water Street. Tel. (508) 228-1500. whiteelephantvillage.com is said to be among the best on the island. 7 SOUTH WATER STREET. A PRECEDING A RATING, DENOTES AN OFFICIALLY RECOMMENDED HOTEL THAT WILL BE ADDED TO THE ANDREW HARPER COLLECTION. TEL. (508) 228-1818.

FEBRUARY 2018 THE HIDEAWAY REPORT 11 LAST LOOK LAST LOOK LAST WORD A NEW HOPE?

ith the resignation of Robert W Mugabe, after 37 years of kleptocratic rule, it seemed that the long-suffering people of Zimbabwe might just have a future after all. My inbox began to fill up with messages from acquaintances in the country, all expressing their hope and elation. But is their optimism well-founded? Mugabe was ejected because of his intention to install his wife, Grace, in the presidential palace in his stead. The army merely preempted Ghost village of Craco in Basilicata, Italy. Read about our memorable visit at AndrewHarper.com. his move and backed its man, Emmerson Mnangagwa, to preserve NEW AND NOTEWORTHY the status quo. So far so gloomy. But is there no glimmer of light? The STYLISH SEA ISLAND FIRST-CLASS causes for optimism stem mostly from Mnangagwa’s reputation as SHANGHAI DEBUT UPGRADE SUITES an economic pragmatist. He knows

Swire Hotels’ fourth “House” The Lodge at Sea Island, Singapore Airlines has that safari tourism is essential to CRACO: PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER property is due to open in a 43-room resort on the become the latest carrier to the financial future. As well as an | Shanghai during the first coast of Georgia constructed upgrade its first-class cabins. injection of foreign hard currency, quarter of 2018. We already in the style of an English Its A380 aircraft will now it will provide jobs for Zimbabwe’s recommend The Upper manor, has been a favorite offer six “Suites,” with proper legion of unemployed. Strangely, House, an exceptionally styl- of Andrew Harper members beds and separate leather- though, even before the dramatic ish 117-room hotel in Hong for many years. Now it is upholstered swivel chairs. events of last November, the political weather had begun to change. The Kong, with an outstanding subject to a $25 million devel- Couples may combine two most emblematic development restaurant overseen by New opment program that will Suites in order to create a was the decision in late 2016 by York chef Gray Kunz. Now it involve the construction of double bed. Meals will be Great Plains Conservation, one of is being joined by The Middle six new cottages, five with served with Wedgwood china Africa’s finest safari companies, to House, a 111-room hotel two bedrooms and one with and Lalique glassware. As build three new camps in Zimbabwe. designed by Piero Lissoni and four bedrooms, all overlook- the flight from New York to (Two will be adjacent to the Mana located in Shanghai’s historic ing the Atlantic. Further Singapore is more than 21 Pools National Park in the majestic Dazhongli neighborhood. enhancements will include hours, such enhancements Zambezi Valley.) The new camps are Here, too, a refined Zen an oceanfront pool, plus are entirely welcome — expected to open in summer 2018.

design will be complemented a 17,000-square-foot golf though doubtless they will Perhaps we really are about to see THE MIDDLE HOUSE BATH: NUDGE PHOTOGRAPHY BY NOEL YEO by chef Kunz’s superlative performance center with six come at a price. the triumph of hope over experience. cuisine. instruction and club-fitting

Bath at The Middle House, Shanghai bays. A new putting course is ANDREW HARPER HOTEL RATINGS

to be constructed overlooking A99-100 A truly great hotel, among the finest of its kind in the world the ocean. The additions will A96-98 An exceptional hotel of great individuality and distinction be completed by November A93-95 An outstanding hotel of genuine sophistication 2018 in time for the RSM Clas- A90-92 A fine hotel with considerable charm about which we have minor reservations sic tournament. In December, 89 & Below A hotel that did not meet the required standard work will begin on a full A minimum score of 90 is required to become a recommended hotel and to be included in The Andrew Harper Collection. Find all of our recommended hotels at AndrewHarper.com. renovation of the resort’s The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 4214 Medical Parkway, Plantation Course, by Love Suite 200, Austin, Texas 78756. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. Golf Design, a firm founded POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. MEMBER: If the Post Office alerts us that your periodical publication is by Sea Island’s Davis Love III undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. Copyright 2018 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, and his brother, Mark. reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

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