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Home , Fiori (pasta), Mediterranean cuisine, Sorbet, Trofie

2011

2 0 1 altamarea group 1 ai THE RIVIERA BLOOMS IN NEW YORK: AI FIORI IN THE GROOVE: FRENCH SERVICE, ITALIAN HEART private dining: have it your way MEDITERRANEAN INSPIRATION: PLATING THE RIVIERA FROM TO : MICHAEL WHITE’S TRAVELS Terroir -“The total natural environment of any viticultural site, as defined in terms of climate, sunlight, geography, wind and soil/water relations.”—Dino Tantawi www.vignaioliamerica.com

VignaioliAdFINAL.indd 1 5/31/11 3:01 PM AI FIORI IS BLOSSOMING

When Michael and I first met, our personalities and our vision instantly clicked. I am a businessman with a passion for food, and he is a great culinary mind with a passion for business. —Ahmass Fakahany

So when we started to come up with the concept about a menu that could create a bit of excitement lot of research to convey this theme of accessible for Ai Fiori, we looked at it from both a culinary and still be original and different from what is elegance, bearing in mind that you have a New and business perspective. Because the space already available and done so well in other New York palate to please and a Michael White clientele. was in a hotel, the new Setai Fifth Avenue, whose York establishments. We came up with our own We have a deep section on the menu for this clientele is decidedly European, we felt this alone niche—for example, including vichyssoise and reason. It is a reminder of our roots and gives all would mean we weren’t confined to just Italian , but with a little twist to them. And the restaurants something in common—fabulous food—that it might just be the perfect opportunity wonderful main dishes—to create that feeling, if White ! As a group, we want to stress to break out and try something new. possible in New York City, of coming straight from quality and consistency at all price points, but la plage for seasonal food. Our first love is Italian food, that is a given. But we also create places to which anyone can come, also have a strong connection with food from the We also had to keep in mind the hotel’s five-star be themselves, and enjoy an exceptional . South of France, where Michael trained for several ambiance. Ai Fiori couldn’t be a rustic bistro. But Our menu is not complicated; its strength lies in years and I have traveled extensively and even a Riviera theme, with its romance and accessible simplicity and quality. have a home. We are both drawn to the simplicity elegance, was the perfect compliment. We I think this has been a great experience for of the food—it’s not old-school Parisian, but also thought about our Marea guests—who Michael too. He had to retune his French very accessible French that is also not brasserie. would hopefully see this as a “sister” restaurant skills, bringing back his taste memory. Right But for Michael to move beyond the common destination. And so it made sense on all counts. before we had finished our proposal for Ai Fiori, Plus, given the space, we now had a bar where perception of the Italian chef, how could we make we were in the South of France thinking it through the transition to a credible French menu? That’s guests could really enjoy an aperitif or cocktail and discussing it carefully. We just knew that we when we both moved toward our second love: the first, which is very la Riviera. What’s the hurry?! were ready to do it for all the right reasons­­­­­­­—not French Riviera. Ai fiori is Italian for “with the flowers,” but it also just because it was a good idea but also because it We started talking about the places we had been speaks to the flowers of the Riviera. There is a lot felt right. We thought: we love it here, we love this to, the villages we had visited, the hotels on the of marble in the restaurant, so we included flowers food, and, most important, people will really enjoy Riviera in which we had eaten. Then we thought and now new curtains to add warmth. We did a this kind of food too.

Altamarea group: our Restaurant Locations

Osteria Morini Marea Ai Fiori Due Terre Due Mari Al Molo 218 Lafayette Street 240 Central Park South 400 Fifth Avenue 107 Morristown Road 78 Albany Street Shop G63, G/F New York, NY New York, NY New York, NY Bernardsville, NJ New Brunswick, NJ Harbour City, Hong Kong 10012 10019 10018 07924 08901 t. 212.965.8777 t. 212.582.5100 t. 212.613.8660 t. 908.221.0040 t. 732.296.1600 t. +852 2525 9300

altamarea group:ai fiori • 2011 3 Caposaldo proseCCo.

BuBBly, ItalIan style! www.kobrandwineandspirits.com ©2010 Kobrand Corporation, New York, NY www.kobrandwineandspirits.com

cap_ad_Bubbly_Sapori_0410r2.indd 1 5/6/10 9:28:56 AM Three stars from The New York Times One Michelin star Zagat 2012’s Best New Restaurant—New York Esquire’s Best New Restaurant 2011—New York

Chef Michael White wants everyone to know that he really loves French food too. At Ai Fiori, he gets to do what he does best: present the food he is passionate about from regions in which he has lived and cooked. It’s about reinventing the classics with a dazzling display of Mediterranean luxe, Provençal flavors, and Italian heart.

I like to say I went to to learn flavor and to fraîche instead of mayonnaise. Using and I really want people to know I love French France to learn technique, and here at Ai Fiori I bone marrow in a different way, with red ; food, in its purest sense. I feel food needs have the opportunity to apply these two together. offering a caviar service; taking a like to be respected, and part of that respect is During my time in France, I worked at Roger coriander, which is not common in Italy; making representing the classics that are slowly going Vergé’s Le Moulin de Mougins, right outside of a broth with Serrano ham, which is not French— away. French or Italian—it’s easy as a chef to Cannes; Jacques Chibois’s Michelin-starred La all of this really opens up the playbook. Even the get tired of the , continually searching for Bastide Saint Antoine, in Grasse; and Christian lamb en crepinette, another classic Italian dish, something exotic. And that’s fine, but then where Morisset’s La Terrasse, in Juan les Pins. As I takes on some Moroccan influences with our do you find something authentic, like a lobster traveled throughout the region, what I noticed spice rub before being ramped up with French bisque or a duck on a rotisserie in front of a fire was this amazing connection between the technique. with Armagnac and prunes? What we have done cuisine of the Riviera and the cuisine of — at Morini is really represent the Italian trattoria oil–based with plenty of , tomatoes, The Riviera is all about ultraluxe, and this and hold on to those defining dishes—and that’s and . You can trace it back to trading extends into our dining room, which, given the my goal here. I love what I do, I have a lot more to routes and the waves of European invaders. space we have to play with, rare in New York, do, and, bottom line, I feel that food really needs Looking beyond Sicily, you see , and sets the tone with spacious tables placed well to be respected. And that’s what we do at Ai Fiori. then you can put your finger on how the use apart. And in the kitchen, this “anything goes” of or the importance of lamb moved to attitude in the South of France—the excesses of specific parts of Italy and the French ports, like caviar, sea urchins, and oysters—finds its place Nice and . Take the olive, for example, between the Provençal flavors and the Italian and the connection between the Niçoise from technique of making really great pastas. When Nice and the Taggiasca from Liguria. Suddenly, I worked in France, we used cream, tomatoes, the livornese dishes from the port town of Livorno and Sauternes with lobster shells to make a share the same flavors as à la Provençal. And so delicious lobster bisque; here, we apply thin I started looking at the cooking of the South of slices of raw lobster with hot cream and really France through an Italian lens. take things to the next level, at the same time When I first came back to the States, I was able using ingredients from Liguria. Traditional pasta to use the French techniques I had learned, but shapes like , which is usually cooked with not necessarily the ingredients. Here I get a or string , is paired here with chance to really open up my canvas. Avocado ink, grated , and crumbs to reflect is not classically Italian but crabe à l’avocat is a the importance of the of Menton. Oysters staple in the Riviera, and so we do an interesting are poached in a lemon beurre blanc, where the version of that, slicing the avocado very thin and butter has been infused with seaweed to more mixing the with and a bit of crème strongly take on the flavors of the sea.

altamarea group:ai fiori • 2011 5 6 2011 • altamarea group:ai fiori IN THE GROOVE John Paulus, GENERAL MANAGER AT Ai Fiori

While we had a strong idea of what we wanted to happen here at Ai Fiori, we all needed to let the space speak to us and listen to our clientele.

After a year here, we feel we are starting to a high standard and really treat every person— a great space, great support, and delicious food find our niche. We are fortunate to still have the employee and guest alike—with a tremendous to serve. majority of our opening team. The type of service amount of respect. The kindness they have for My family has a we offer can’t be achieved unless everyone is the individual transfers natural sense for on the same page. We are constantly polishing into a product and a hospitality. My dad our service and looking for ways to improve. The group that creates an The biggest compliment comes from a family kitchen has settled into its space, and our dining enjoyable experience I can get from a guest is of butchers and dairy room now feels like home to our staff. Because for the guest. when they want to come farmers that owned of this, our team can move about their space with back because they thought I feel like Michael and several dairy farms in ease and grace. the food was outstanding PJ have created a menu and they had a great time, New Brunswick, New Our guests receive service they’d expect in a fine- that blends the regions but can’t quite put their Jersey. They enjoyed dining establishment, and it is warm and genuine. on which we focus in a finger on why. If the service entertaining, and Our service team is traditional in that there is a really clever way. One of isn’t intrusive, if tables are family affairs were team of three in each section of the dining room. the things we think is so marked and cleared without always important. My While we don’t feel we are providing customary important is to present them noticing it, then we’ve mom has a knack French service, we have inherited many details their food in such a way really done our job. for entertaining— from other houses that are French that have that we don’t interfere so natural that my become second nature to us. with what works so parents hosted parties The culture we have created is unique, and a direct well. There are no instructions, no right or wrong for every season. Hospitality is a great passion of link to Michael White and Ahmass Fakahany. This way to enjoy a meal here. If we can be invisible, mine and I hope to translate that to our guests is a touch you don’t get everywhere. They have set our goal has been accomplished. We have such through our service at Ai Fiori.

altamarea group:ai fiori • 2011 7 Michael White on Chef de Cuisine PJ Calapa and the Team

“I like to say that we have the equivalent of the Yankees in the team assembled at Ai Fiori. PJ has a wide base of experience with different methods and techniques. He has a deep knowledge and technique in French from Bouley and Eleven Madison Park, and Japanese from Nobu 57. But having no specific Italian experience was a great advantage because he had no predisposed ideas, and no bad habits to break! The way we do pasta here is unique. I have a solid team in the kitchen and beyond; it’s just layer after layer of great people.”

8 2011 • altamarea group:ai fiori PLATING THE RIVIERA PJ Calapa, chef de cuisine at Ai Fiori

From the beginning, the core success of our menu has stemmed from sticking to strictly northern Italian and southern .

Using the ingredients from both and has classic flavors, looks beautiful, and is the South of France defines us. The taggiasca traditional to the region. olives from Liguria are so special that you can This is a veritable Mediterranean restaurant see the variants in each oil. This is indicative of because you can have a beautiful Ligurian pasta Liguria, as well as each farm and estate they come corzetti followed by a classic French bouillabaisse. We from. This is what makes the food so special. The feel like this is the best of both worlds. The style handcrafted work is something we are proud of Corzetti are a kind of fresh pasta typical of of cuisine at Ai Fiori gives us the ability to bring as well. We are working with a new pasta shape the Ligurian cuisine of northwest Italy and back old-world methods and dishes and make called a corzetti, or round stamp. On a trip to Italy, Provence, France. Traditionally made of them our own way. Michael found these flour, water, and salt—sometimes with the rare wooden stamps It’s all about taking a “The style of cuisine at addition of egg and white wine—they are that traditionally traditional dish and Ai Fiori gives us the ability creating a progressive cut into discs and embossed on both sides feature a family crest; to bring back old-world each piece of pasta version that takes using a pair of cylindrical fruitwood stamps methods and dishes and you back to a certain is impressed with its make them our own way.” hand carved with a delicate pattern. Curzetti design. We decided to point in your life. My stampae, pressed or stamped corzetti, were uncle is from France use this pasta to create traditionally stamped with a family crest and a free-form lasagna. It and recently had the served at festive . Now all forms of is filled with a hen of here; he decoration are used. And while corzetti are the woods mushroom ragu and it sits on lemon said it took him back to his childhood. We serve ricotta, which makes it very light and creamy. it with a crispy tempura , and this decorative pasta, there is functionality to We build five layers of pasta and ragu, and sage, is our interpretation of a classic dish that doesn’t the shape: the embossed pattern helps the brown butter, and lemon finish the . The compromise its original flavors. pasta to better hold .

altamarea group:ai fiori • 2011 9 sweet confessions

Executive Pastry Chef Bob Truitt

Bob Truitt oversees the pastry program for the Altamarea Group’s properties, where he seamlessly crafts the menus to coincide with specific regional themes, ensuring Michael White’s attention to authenticity is matched in the . At Ai Fiori, the techniques Bob has learned from all of his culinary experiences culminate in a well-thought-out menu with a Riviera flare.

What was your approach in creating the What are some ingredients you are enjoying Tell about your baba au rhum. dessert menu at Ai Fiori? working with right now? Baba au rhum has always been a favorite of mine My goal with Ai Fiori’s menu is to reach each I really enjoy using fresh stracciatella cheese from and a French Riviera classic. My approach in part of the Riviera. Being such a region-specific Puglia for —something that I was familiar giving new life to this dish was a real challenge, restaurant, it was important to look at all the with prior to being here but am very happy to be but we are very pleased with the results. I took flavors and traditional dishes of the area. I using. Fresh bergamot oranges are another great the sweet, syrupy, rum-spiked bread and looked looked through books and menus at existing ingredient that we love having around. at it through the flavors and richness of dark rum. restaurants. Of , Michael White is a great Instead of using white- syrup, we substituted source of information, and our relationship with muscovado sugar, spices, peels, molasses, Michael is very collaborative. I bring a strong and condensed milk for the soak. Then we French background, and it’s very refreshing to caramelized it with clarified butter and . By have his extensive knowledge about Italian and doing this, we transform it into a buttered rum– French cuisine to pull from and help guide the caramel bread, served with a carefully composed team. tropical or exotique.

What is your favorite savory dish on the Ai Fiori menu?

Definitely the Trofie Nero. I find it to be a beautifully flavored dish that best represents one of Liguria’s signature pasta shapes.

10 2011 • altamarea group:ai fiori PANNA COTTA Serves 4

Green Apple–Celery Lemon peel puree Panna Cotta White sesame Sesame espuma Breton Fig Sorbet 200 grams Meyer 1% gelatin sabayon 300 grams sesame milk 160 grams egg yolks 500 grams Black 1 kilo green apple puree lemon peel, blanched 700 grams heavy cream 3 liters heavy cream (made with 150 seed/ 320 grams sugar Mission figs (10% sugar added three times 1 part milk) 500 grams milk 450 grams sugar 320 grams pomade 300 grams water to the purée before 200 grams water 300 grams heavy cream proceeding with the 4 each vanilla beans 600 grams white butter 100 grams sugar 200 grams lemon juice sesame seeds, toasted 200 grams sugar recipe) 190 grams sugar 450 grams all-purpose 200 grams berry base 160 grams sugar 600 grams egg whites 3 sheets gelatin flour 195 grams sugar 375 grams honey 20 grams ginger 6 each star , 10 sheets gelatin 30 grams baking 75 grams glucose pinch salt 2 pieces chopped powder toasted and placed Method powder lemongrass in a spice sachet or 7% (~220 grams) 30 grams dextrose cheesecloth balsamic reduction Method Combine sesame milk, 1/2 fruit peel powder heavy cream, and sugar Method 15 each black 1400 grams Combine heavy cream, 4 grams stabilizer sugar, and toasted in a sauce pot and boil. Place yolks in peppercorn crème fraîche Add gelatin and chill. Method 200 celery juice sesame seeds in a Kitchenaid mixer with 1 each vanilla sauce pot and bring to Place in iSi siphon and whisk attachment and Place all ingredients in 1 each juice Method 60°C. Add egg whites charge twice with NO2 whip on high. sous-vide bag and cook of half lemon gas. Reserve cold. at 90°C for 20 minutes. Method Bloom gelatin in ice and cook to 80°C. Add Add sugar slowly and, gelatin, dissolve, and Chill and strain through Combine everything water. Combine heavy once at ribbon stage, fine mesh sieve. Season Method cream, milk, and vanilla chill immediately. Let whip in pomade butter into a sauce pot and rest for 12 hours. Whip with lemon juice, lemon Combine half the apple cook on low until Meyer in a sauce pot and until fully incorporated. zest, and lemon oil. boil, adding sugar and in Kitchenaid mixer until Sift dry flour and fold puree with the sugar lemon peel is tender. it forms medium peaks. and cook to 80°C. Add honey. Add salt, reduced in gently by hand. Bake Strain and puree balsamic, and gelatin, at 325°F on a sheet for Garnish remaining and immediately, chill, and stabilizers and cook and dissolve. 7 to 10 minutes. Let Glazed figs place in squeeze bottle. cool. Powder in a food to dissolve. Strain and Chill to 50°C and add Blackberries chill, then add celery crème fraîche. Set in processor and reserve juice and lemon juice. molds. in cool dry place. Cape gooseberries Reserve for 12 hours Green apple wedge and process in a gelato Red apple slices machine.

altamarea group:ai fiori • 2011 11 Autostrada dei Fiori The highway that runs along the Mediterranean connecting Italy to France begins as the A10 along the French Riviera and crosses into Italy to become the Autostrada dei Fiori, or Highway of Flowers, for the beautiful flora lining the sides of the road on both sides of the border.

12 2011 • altamarea group:ai fiori TRAVEL WITH MICHAEL WHITE FROM PROVENCE TO LIGURIA

ST. REMY/NOVES CANNES Cap d’Antibes VENTIMIGLIA MONTE CARLO

La Maison Domaine Marché Forville Hôtel du Cap Eden-Roc Balzi Rossi Le Louis XV de Bournissac Forville Market is located Boulevard JF Kennedy Ristorante Balzi Rossi Hôtel de Paris Montée d’Eyragues on the west end of Rue Antibes Piazzale A. De Gasperi Place du Casino Paluds de Noves Meynadier, which is one of Tel. +33.4.93.61.39.01 2 Frontiera San Ludovico Tel. +37.7.98.06.88.64 Tel. +33.4.90.90.25.25 the Côte’s best gourmand Tel. +39.0184.38132 hoteldeparismontecarlo.com streets. For a spectacular The food here is good ristorantebalzirossi.com The dishes at La Maison food experience, whether and the service attentive, The menu, a Mediterranean Domaine de Bournissac for eating or viewing, no but you must have Smack on the Franco– and seasonal symphony of are full of the rich other market in Cannes at the Eden Roc for the Italian frontier, the a style that Alain Ducasse flavors and colors of beats this for scale and captivating views of the restaurant Balzi Rossi qualifies in one word— Mediterranean cuisine. variety. Mediterranean—as well offers a sneak preview of “essential”—suggests a Chef and owner Christian as for celebrity sightings! Italy, with its two Michelin wide pallet of exquisite Peyre works with local L’Oasis stars, fashionable clientele, dishes. The wine cellar, filled produce that he often 6 Rue Jean-Honoré Carle Restaurant de Bacon and cuisine that combines with 400,000 bottles, is a combines with fruit and Mandelieu-la-Napoule Boulevard de Bacon the best of Liguria with wine aficionado’s dream. from his own Tel. +33.4.93.49.95.52 Cap d’Antibes French formality. Don’t But above all, the chef has garden. Tel. +33.4.93.61.50.02 miss the Ligurian ensured that every detail The cooking of the restaurantdebacon.com/uk/ specialty cappone magro reveals the magic of this Raimbault brothers that comes as a pretty incomparable place. A NICE offers a true gastronomic Michelin-starred Bacon is bouquet of baby timeless enchantment. experience at this one of the most renowned laced with a tangy sauce Cours Saleya Market prestigious culinary fish restaurants in France, of olive oil, vinegar, and Between Place Massena institution. Come here for a sitting across from the old . and Vieux Nice in Old Town rare combination of Asian town of Antibes, on the Tel. +33.4.92.14.48.00 and Mediterranean flavor Baie des Anges. Make sure influences set amid a neo- to sample their stunning Every day is market day Gothic villa. bouillabaisse! here, from the flower market and fruit and Plage de Paloma market (Tuesday 1 Chemin de Saint-Hospice to Sunday) to the antiques Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat fair (Mondays) and the Tel. + 33.4.93.01.64.71 arts-and-crafts market on summer evenings. Paloma Beach is a Blooms of every color and charming place to spend shape burst to life; row time in a fifties Riviera after row of spices beckon. atmosphere. The restaurant There are the size specializes in simple of golf balls and olives . Make sure glimmering in the sun. to order the grilled sea Fresh fish are stacked in bass, if available. icy display cases.

altamarea group:ai fiori • 2011 13 ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN WINE ROUTE Hristo Zisovski, Beverage Director Chef Sommelier at Ai Fiori

Coming to Ai Fiori, I was excited to bring my knowledge of French to the table and have a chance to explore some of the regions in Italy that are my personal favorites but I had yet to work with. Guests tend to associate Michael White with , much the same way they do with Jean- Georges and French cuisine. Now I get to delve into both worlds. But I don’t want our guests to limit themselves here; the food is extremely wine friendly, and you do not need to drink around it.

My goal at Ai Fiori is to have something for Mediterranean selection of Spanish, some Greek, Liguria with a very beautiful sea breeze kiss to everyone. When we first opened, the wine list even Croatian and Portuguese. them without being aggressive. Our more gamey featured 500 bottles, and that number has steadily dishes, like the lamb, work well with In the kitchen, P.J. Calapa has a great touch for grown to about 900. Because of the cuisine’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape grenaches because of comforting, well-put-together food. He is very focus, I started with the French and Italian their bruising quality. creative in his use of classic ingredients from Riviera, concentrating on the wines from Liguria, the Riviera, which allows us equal creativity Ultimately, I want to enhance our guests’ dining Piedmont, Provence, Rhône, and the Languedoc- with the wine pairing according to how much experience by providing them wine with a style Roussillon region. Using that as my core, I put leeway guests allow us. The seafood dishes, or flavor they are looking for, or by encouraging together the rest of the list to complement it. So ceviches, and crudo conjure up briny, mineral, them to be a little experimental and go off the we have a great selection of wines that are not fragrant pairings that call on all the whites from beaten path to discover something new. necessarily from Italy and France, including a ON THE LIST

LIGURIA Liguria is known for its graceful, coastal white wines and light reds and rosés. The white wines from this region are grassy and also full of sea breeze minerality with notes of hard pit . Some of the grapes responsible for this are vermentino, pegaso, and moscato. The red wines are light and floral, made from rossese, dolcetto, and sangiovese.

Perfect Pairing with the Whites Ligurian Red Wines Call For Vichyssoise: potato, leek, Beausoleil oysters, : braised parcels, pignoli, sylvetta, , Ligurian lemon oil black truffle sugo

Hristo’s Recommendations Hristo’s Recommendation Riviera Ligure di Ponente Pigato “Cycnus,” Granaccio Syrah “Çericò,” Poggio dei Gorleri 2010 Walter de Battè per Prima Terra 2006 Colli di Luni Vermentino “Ithaa,” A more earthy but lighter take Tenuta La Ghiaia 2008 on juicy Côtes du Rhone. >

14 2011 • altamarea group:ai fiori PIEDMONT SARDEGNA LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON Piedmont includes the Langhe, Sardegna’s wine industry has There is newfound pride from this where the two most famous DOCG undergone a big modernization region and great buys in the earthy, wines, barolo and barbaresco, are in recent decades, bringing more dark fruit reds and the honeyed produced. These great reds are attention to the region’s rosés and and herbaceous full-bodied white made from the nebbiolo rich wines. The great age-worthy dessert wines such as banyuls. and the flavor profiles vary on the reds from Cannonau, with notes of Hristo’s Recommendations three main grape varieties, with ripe, hearty, roasted black fruits, are dolcetto being easy drinking and grown here, as are the full-bodied Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes plush; barbera having dry, crisp floral and peach-kissed white Blanc “Vieilles Vignes,” Domaine red fruits on the palette; and when varietals of malvasia, moscato, Gauby 2007 consuming nebbiolo, one may vermentino, and vernaccia. Pic Saint Loup “Métairies du Clos call to mind tar, roses, smoke, Hristo’s Recommendations Vieilles Vignes,” Clos Marie 2008 chocolate, and truffles! “Bianco,” Dettori 2007 Hristo’s Recommendations “Turriga” Argiolas 2005 SOUTHERN RHÔNE Colli Tortonesi Timorasso “Derthona,” Claudio Mariotto 2007 While the mellow warmth of the grenache is found in most Southern Barolo, Prunotto “Bussia” 2004 PROVENCE Rhône wines, this region is in They have been making wine in fact a blender’s paradise, with a Provence for more than 2,600 years. choice of up to 23 different grape VALLE D’AOSTA Whites from Provence have a tropical varietals. The full whites of this Known for its craggy Alpine richness to pair with lush seafood region, dripping with stone fruit, landscape and light, aromatic reds dishes, while dark, meaty, spicy are equally as good but less well- and whites made from unique reds with roasted fruits scream for known than the famous spicy reds native varieties, Valle d’Aosta is the a succulent lamb dish. Two great ranging from light côtes du Rhône smallest Italian winemaking region. pairings from the Ai Fiore menu are to medium gigondas to full-bodied Whites range from light Müller- recommended below. Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Thurgau to full-bodied to sweet Trofie Nero: Ligurian crustacean Hristo’s Recommendations moscato. Reds run the range as ragoût, seppia, scallops, spiced well and are usually blends of Côtes du Rhône Blanc “Clémentia,” mollica many indigenous varietals. Domaine Les Aphillanthes 2009 Palette Blanc, Château Simone 2006 Hristo’s Recommendations Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge, Henri Agnello: rack of lamb en crepinette, Bonneau “Cuvée Spéciale” 1998 “Vini Estremi,” La Cave du Vin Blanc ratatouille, flower de Morgex et de La Salle 2010 Bandol, Domaine de Terrebrune 1990 Fumin, Les Crêtes 2006 Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhône, Corsica is l’Île de Beauté, the Island Domaine de Trévallon 2001 of Beauty, known for its dark SICILY wines. Very little yield comes from Sicily is the largest island on the this lovely island, but of the grapes Mediterranean. It is known for its that do grow here, the white grape olive oil; rich whites that are floral, vermentino produce whites, light creamy, and nutty; and earthy and dry, of a remarkably fragrant reds that are concentrated of ashy and floral character. The only red flavors and dry red fruits. Wines are grape, nielluccio, produces wines all medium- to full-bodied in style. full of fruit, round and clean with The famous fortified wine marsala rustic charm. is from this appellation. Hristo’s Recommendations Hristo’s Recommendations Patrimonio Blanc “Haut de Carco,” Fiano “Cometa,” Planeta 2008 Antoine Arena 2009 Etna Rosso, Il Cantante 2002 Patrimonio, Yves Leccia 2008

altamarea group:ai fiori • 2011 15

Private Dining AL MOLO Michael White on Hong Kong at Ai Fiori “We live in a globalized market, and there were so many reasons why opening in Hong Kong Patty McAvoy, Events Director at Ai Fiori was a great decision. Believe it or not, we have a lot of people calling from the States to make reservations because they are about to head there. I am constantly amazed by how much people travel. I was just in Hong Kong, where a young lady who was dining at Al Molo approached me to tell me how great the Trofie Nero dish at Ai Fiori was! She had photos of the food on her phone and everything! How cool is that?!”

At his Hong Kong restaurant, Al Molo, Italian for “the Pier,” Chef Michael White showcases his signature Italian culinary style in this spectacular space that overlooks the Victoria Harbour waterfront. The restaurant features three separate dining experiences: relaxed casual in the front, more opulent in the midsection, and al fresco tables on the outside terrace, facing a dramatic skyline.

In true Michael White fashion, he spent a lot of time in Hong Kong’s local eateries prior to the opening and studied techniques from chefs in the area. White selected Jimmy Everett, formerly of Marea, as his executive chef to helm the kitchen. Seasonal fish dishes and hand-selected headline the menu, along with signature fresh house-made pastas and . And unique among Michael White restaurants are Al Molo’s thinly cooked , made in front of the diners and topped with the freshest market ingredients available.

Every event is about creating the perfect using soft aqua blue curtains. And right along the equation: finding out the needs of each client, windows on Fifth Avenue, we can have 75 guests using the space correctly, and working with seated at big round tables. For a restaurant the kitchen to deliver to a group’s tastes. Every buyout, we can accommodate 140 seated or 200 detail counts, and at Ai Fiori I really believe that standing. our guests appreciate the thought put into this My goal is to excite people with not only the food restaurant—from the shape of the pasta down to and atmosphere, but also the ease of booking an the way the marble floor is faced. event here. We offer two private dining rooms: one that For more information or to schedule overlooks 36th Street that can accommodate your next event, contact Patty McAvoy 12 guests, and the other, featuring a wine wall, at [email protected] that can seat up to 20. In the main dining room, or 212-613-8660. we can create several semiprivate dining areas

altamarea group:ai fiori • 2011 17 Publisher HauteNotes Michael Goldman

From the publisher, HauteNotes is about the discovery of all things innovative and exciting in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel. Visit hautenotes.com. Editor-in-Chief Pamela Jouan Design Director HAUTEtaste HAUTEcocktail Jana Potashnik BAIRDesign, Inc. Brazilian Presidente Managing Editor 2 oz. Leblon cachaça Christian Kappner 1/2 oz sweet vermouth Assistant Editor 1/2 oz fig Stephane Henrion dash of grenadine Copy Editor kelly suzan waggoner Shake all the ingredients on Contributing Writers ice. Strain and serve up in a Pamela Jouan chilled martini glass. Garnish jaclyn bloch with a fig. Photography Melissa Hom Ted Axelrod evan sung CORTEZ MULLET COMPANY Leblon brunotto AMERICAN GOLD Cachaça is unique to Brazil, as it can only be made there. chavelli Cortez Mullet Company is the only outlet producing Like France’s Cognac or Champagne and Mexico’s tequila, Ian L American Gold Bottarga in the United States. Founder cachaça has qualities that separate it from any other spirit. Suswar Seth Cripe does it all from start to finish: fishing Cachaça is made from fresh-pressed juice, Advertising sustainably, using hand-thrown cast nets, leaning the which is then fermented and distilled. Distillation can be [email protected] mullet, cutting out the golden roe, and curing the roe accomplished using two accepted methods: industrial with kosher sea salt. When freshly grated, this golden column stills or artisanal alembique copper pot stills. Marketing Director bottarga adds a wonderful complexity to dishes with The latter method represents the minority of the yearly Katherine Payne fresh seafood flavor and balanced salinity. Fishing production, but it can result in complex, interesting, and according to the seasons and using sustainable wonderful spirits. methods, the Cortez Mullet Company is committed to HauteLife Press Leblon, an artisanal cachaça, is made at Maison Leblon supporting fishing that ensures the ecological health a division of C-BON MEDIA, LLC. in Brazil’s state of Minas Gerais. The distillery’s mission of our oceans and their marine life. It’s no surprise that 321 Dean Street is to show the world that cachaça can be a noble spirit. top American chefs like Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud, Suite 1 The result is a lively pure nose and a full-bodied that Andrew Carmellini, and Michael White now consider Brooklyn, NY 11217 Cortez Gold the finest bottarga on the planet. exhibits a floral bouquet with light herbal and grassy notes and tastes of sweet sugarcane, crème brûlée, spicy vanilla, www.hautelifepress.com and white pepper. The spirit warms in the mouth and leaves [email protected] a gentle sweetness in the middle of the tongue that flowers as it lasts, much like a refined tequila. Subscription Inquiries 718.288.8688 [email protected] HAUTEbooks or visit www.hautelifepress.com Printed and bound in the U.S.A. An Everlasting Meal: Cooking with Economy and Grace HauteLife Press makes every effort by Tamar Adler to ensure that the information it Through the insightful essays in An Everlasting Meal, Tamar Adler issues a rallying publishes is correct but cannot be cry to home cooks. In chapters about boiling water, cooking eggs and beans, and held responsible for any errors or summoning respectable meals from empty cupboards, Tamar weaves philosophy omissions. and instruction into approachable lessons on instinctive cooking. Tamar shows © 2011 All rights reserved. how to make the most of everything you buy, demonstrating what the world’s great Reproduction without permission chefs know: that great meals rely on the bones and peels and ends of meals before is strictly prohibited. them. She explains how to smarten up simple food and gives advice for fixing dishes gone awry. She recommends turning to neglected onions, celery, and potatoes for inexpensive meals that taste full of fresh vegetables, and cooking meat and fish resourcefully. By wresting cooking from doctrine and doldrums, Tamar encourages readers to begin from wherever they are, with whatever they have. An Everlasting Meal is elegant testimony to the value of cooking and an empowering, indispensable tool for eaters today.