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The Summits of Modern Man: Mountaineering After the Enlightenment (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2013)
Bibliography Peter H. Hansen, The Summits of Modern Man: Mountaineering after the Enlightenment (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2013) This bibliography consists of works cited in The Summits of Modern Man along with a few references to citations that were cut during editing. It does not include archival sources, which are cited in the notes. A bibliography of works consulted (printed or archival) would be even longer and more cumbersome. The print and ebook editions of The Summits of Modern Man do not include a bibliography in accordance with Harvard University Press conventions. Instead, this online bibliography provides links to online resources. For books, Worldcat opens the collections of thousands of libraries and Harvard HOLLIS records often provide richer bibliographical detail. For articles, entries include Digital Object Identifiers (doi) or stable links to online editions when available. Some older journals or newspapers have excellent, freely-available online archives (for examples, see Journal de Genève, Gazette de Lausanne, or La Stampa, and Gallica for French newspapers or ANNO for Austrian newspapers). Many publications still require personal or institutional subscriptions to databases such as LexisNexis or Factiva for access to back issues, and those were essential resources. Similarly, many newspapers or books otherwise in the public domain can be found in subscription databases. This bibliography avoids links to such databases except when unavoidable (such as JSTOR or the publishers of many scholarly journals). Where possible, entries include links to full-text in freely-accessible resources such as Europeana, Gallica, Google Books, Hathi Trust, Internet Archive, World Digital Library, or similar digital libraries and archives. -
Pour Les Guides
VOIE ROYALE POUR LES GUIDES L’histoire de la compagnie des guides de Saint-Gervais Le 8 août 1786 sonne la fin des espérances locales. est étroitement liée à l’exploration du massif du Mont- Michel Paccard et le guide Jacques Balmat Blanc et à la rivalité avec les communes voisines. atteignent le sommet du mont Blanc depuis Fondée en 1864, elle est la deuxième institution de Chamonix. La voie du Goûter va tomber dans guides de haute montagne en France. Avec quelques l’oubli pendant de nombreuses années. Charles singularités qui la distinguent de ses voisines. Durier, qui fut président et secrétaire général du Club alpin français à partir de 1895, écrira : u xviiie siècle, les tentatives « Chamonix et Saint-Gervais sont deux cités d’ascension du mont Blanc rivales, comme autrefois Rome et Albe. Si la pre- font entrer Saint-Gervais mière comptait les cristalliers les plus hardis, la dans l’histoire de l’alpinisme. seconde était fière à bon droit de l’intrépidité de La conquête de la plus haute ses chasseurs de chamois. C’est par le côté de cime des Alpes ne laisse pas Saint-Gervais que l’ascension du Mont-Blanc avait indifférents les habitants du d’abord paru plus près de réussir… Saint-Gervais pays. Ces paysans, conscients crut tenir la victoire, Chamonix l’emporta et Saint- des retombées économiques potentielles de l’alpi- Gervais en conçut un amer chagrin. » Ascension du mont Blanc La première ascension saint-gervolaine du mont ceux de Chamonix. Elle se dote d’un fonctionnement nisme, vont troquer leurs outils agricoles contre le En 1815, le colonel autrichien Franz-Ludwig von par le pyrénéiste et alpiniste Blanc est réalisée par le chef des guides Joseph- moderne reposant sur la « caisse de secours » (un français Henri Brulle, piolet pour accompagner les premiers voyageurs. -
Mountaineering War and Peace at High Altitudes
Mountaineering War and Peace at High Altitudes 2–5 Sackville Street Piccadilly London W1S 3DP +44 (0)20 7439 6151 [email protected] https://sotherans.co.uk Mountaineering 1. ABBOT, Philip Stanley. Addresses at a Memorial Meeting of the Appalachian Mountain Club, October 21, 1896, and other 2. ALPINE SLIDES. A Collection of 72 Black and White Alpine papers. Reprinted from “Appalachia”, [Boston, Mass.], n.d. [1896]. £98 Slides. 1894 - 1901. £750 8vo. Original printed wrappers; pp. [iii], 82; portrait frontispiece, A collection of 72 slides 80 x 80mm, showing Alpine scenes. A 10 other plates; spine with wear, wrappers toned, a good copy. couple with cracks otherwise generally in very good condition. First edition. This is a memorial volume for Abbot, who died on 44 of the slides have no captioning. The remaining are variously Mount Lefroy in August 1896. The booklet prints Charles E. Fay’s captioned with initials, “CY”, “EY”, “LSY” AND “RY”. account of Abbot’s final climb, a biographical note about Abbot Places mentioned include Morteratsch Glacier, Gussfeldt Saddle, by George Herbert Palmer, and then reprints three of Abbot’s Mourain Roseg, Pers Ice Falls, Pontresina. Other comments articles (‘The First Ascent of Mount Hector’, ‘An Ascent of the include “Big lunch party”, “Swiss Glacier Scene No. 10” Weisshorn’, and ‘Three Days on the Zinal Grat’). additionally captioned by hand “Caution needed”. Not in the Alpine Club Library Catalogue 1982, Neate or Perret. The remaining slides show climbing parties in the Alps, including images of lady climbers. A fascinating, thus far unattributed, collection of Alpine climbing. -
THE FUHRERBUCH of JOHANN JAUN by D
• .. THE FUHRERBUCH OF JOI-IANN JAUN . • • THE FUHRERBUCH OF JOHANN JAUN By D. F. 0. DANGAR ' WING to 1-Ians' abnormal carelessness in regard to all matters appertaining to himself, the greater part of his mountaineering achievements are not recorded in this book at all. He is fortunately in the habit of leaving it at home, or it would long since have been destroyed or lost.' Thus \vrote Sir Edward Davidson in the Fuhrerbuch of Hans Jaun, in 1887. Covering a period of thirty-five years, the book contains but thirty one entries most of them signed by the best known amateurs of the time and it is therefore a very incomplete history of J aun's career. Although his habit of leaving his book at home is, no doubt, the chief reason for the many omissions, several of his Herren must bear a share of the responsibility. J. Oakley Maund, for instance, apart from signing with C. T. Dent an entry in reference to an ascent of the Bietschhorn, has written less than a dozen lines in the book, and he does not specifically mention a single one of the many expeditions he made with Jaun. Of two entries by Herr Georg Griiber, one covers a period of seven years, and neither Maund nor Middlemore makes mention of the work of that glorious week in 1876 which, as one of the participants held, ' was entitled to be considered from a purely climbing point of view as a tour de force unsurpassed in the history of the Alps.' Middlemore, however, has paid a." well deserved tribute to his old guide in Pioneers of the Alps. -
Les Clochers D'arpette
31 Les Clochers d’Arpette Portrait : large épaule rocheuse, ou tout du moins rocailleuse, de 2814 m à son point culminant. On trouve plusieurs points cotés sur la carte nationale, dont certains sont plus significatifs que d’autres. Quelqu’un a fixé une grande branche à l’avant-sommet est. Nom : en référence aux nombreux gendarmes rocheux recouvrant la montagne sur le Val d’Arpette et faisant penser à des clochers. Le nom provient surtout de deux grosses tours très lisses à 2500 m environ dans le versant sud-est (celui du Val d’Arpette). Dangers : fortes pentes, chutes de pierres et rochers à « varapper » Région : VS (massif du Mont Blanc), district d’Entremont, commune d’Orsières, Combe de Barmay et Val d’Arpette Accès : Martigny Martigny-Combe Les Valettes Champex Arpette Géologie : granites du massif cristallin externe du Mont Blanc Difficulté : il existe plusieurs itinéraires possibles, partant aussi bien d’Arpette que du versant opposé, mais il s’agit à chaque fois d’itinéraires fastidieux et demandant un pied sûr. La voie la plus courte et relativement pas compliquée consiste à remonter les pentes d’éboulis du versant sud-sud-ouest et ensuite de suivre l’arête sud-ouest exposée (cotation officielle : entre F et PD). Histoire : montagne parcourue depuis longtemps, sans doute par des chasseurs. L’arête est fut ouverte officiellement par Paul Beaumont et les guides François Fournier et Joseph Fournier le 04.09.1891. Le versant nord fut descendu à ski par Cédric Arnold et Christophe Darbellay le 13.01.1993. Spécificité : montagne sauvage, bien visible de la région de Fully et de ses environs, et donc offrant un beau panorama sur le district de Martigny, entre autres… 52 32 L’Aiguille d’Orny Portrait : aiguille rocheuse de 3150 m d’altitude, dotée d’aucun symbole, mais équipée d’un relais d’escalade. -
Mountaineering Ventures
70fcvSs )UNTAINEERING Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY by the ONTARIO LEGISLATIVE LIBRARY 1980 v Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from University of Toronto http://www.archive.org/details/mountaineeringveOObens 1 £1. =3 ^ '3 Kg V- * g-a 1 O o « IV* ^ MOUNTAINEERING VENTURES BY CLAUDE E. BENSON Ltd. LONDON : T. C. & E. C. JACK, 35 & 36 PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. AND EDINBURGH PREFATORY NOTE This book of Mountaineering Ventures is written primarily not for the man of the peaks, but for the man of the level pavement. Certain technicalities and commonplaces of the sport have therefore been explained not once, but once and again as they occur in the various chapters. The intent is that any reader who may elect to cull the chapters as he lists may not find himself unpleasantly confronted with unfamiliar phraseology whereof there is no elucidation save through the exasperating medium of a glossary or a cross-reference. It must be noted that the percentage of fatal accidents recorded in the following pages far exceeds the actual average in proportion to ascents made, which indeed can only be reckoned in many places of decimals. The explanation is that this volume treats not of regular routes, tariffed and catalogued, but of Ventures—an entirely different matter. Were it within his powers, the compiler would wish ade- quately to express his thanks to the many kind friends who have assisted him with loans of books, photographs, good advice, and, more than all, by encouraging countenance. Failing this, he must resort to the miserably insufficient re- source of cataloguing their names alphabetically. -
Mercredi 19 Décembre 2012
ALDE ALDE Une collection sur les Alpes – Savoie – Suisse Franche-Comté Alpes – Savoie Une collection sur les www.alde.fr 93 mercredi 19 décembre 2012 Une collection sur les Alpes Savoie – Suisse Franche-Comté 399 Librairie Giraud-Badin 22, rue Guynemer 75006 Paris Tél. 01 45 48 30 58 - Fax 01 45 48 44 00 [email protected] www.giraud-badin.com Exposition du mercredi 12 au mardi 18 décembre 2012 de 9 h à 13 h et de 14 h à 18 h (le mardi 18 décembre jusqu'à 16 h) Exposition publique Hôtel Regina le mercredi 19 décembre de 10 h à 12 h Une collection sur les Alpes : nos 155 à 293 Savoie et Piémont : nos 294 à 315 Suisse : nos 316 à 328 Franche-Comté : nos 329 à 464 MaisonALDE de ventes spécialisée Livres & Autographes Une collection sur les Alpes Savoie – Suisse Franche-Comté Vente aux enchères publiques Le mercredi 19 décembre 2012 à 15 h 30 Seconde vacation Hôtel Regina Salon de Flore 2, place des Pyramides 75001 Paris Tél. : 01 42 60 31 10 Commissaire-priseur Jérôme Delcamp ALDE Maison de ventes aux enchères 1, rue de Fleurus 75006 Paris Tél. 01 45 49 09 24 - Fax 01 45 49 09 30 - www.alde.fr 190 Une collection sur les Alpes 155 AGASSIZ (Louis). Untersuchungen über die Gletscher. Neuchâtel, Lithographie H. Nicolet, 1840. In-folio, bradel demi-toile brune avec petits coins, premier plat lithographié en noir (Reliure de l’éditeur). 2 000 / 3 000 Première édition de la traduction allemande du « grand ouvrage du fondateur de la géologie glaciaire » (Horblit, One hundred Books famous in Science, n° 1), publiée en même temps que l’édition originale française à la même adresse. -
Vendredi 22 Avril 2016
ALDE www.alde.fr vendredi 22 avril 2016 COUVERTURE.indd 1 30/03/2016 11:56 23 Expert Jacques Perret [email protected] - 07 78 63 17 29 Librairie Giraud-Badin 22, rue Guynemer 75006 Paris Tél. 01 45 48 30 58 - Fax 01 45 48 44 00 [email protected] - www.giraud-badin.com Exposition à la librairie Giraud-Badin pour la première et la deuxième partie du jeudi 14 avril au jeudi 21 avril 2016 de 9 h à 13 h et de 14 h à 18 h (jusqu’à 16 h le jeudi 21 avril) Exposition publique Salle Rossini pour la première partie uniquement le vendredi 22 avril de 10 h à 12 h Première partie : nos 1 à 204 Seconde partie : nos 205 à 446 Conditions de vente consultables sur www.alde.fr En couverture, reproduction du n° 96 COUVERTURE.indd 2 30/03/2016 11:56 Une bibliothèque sur les Alpes Pierre VALLEZ (1944 – 2012) Pierre VALLEZ est né le 22 août 1944 à Châteauroux. Ingénieur diplômé de Supélec, cet amoureux de la montagne – il passe régulièrement ses vacances à Saint-Gervais, au pied du Mont-Blanc – fait son service militaire dans la Marine en Bretagne... Il entreprend une brillante carrière dans une grande entreprise pétrolière, passant 5 ans en Afrique, au Cameroun puis en Côte d’Ivoire et en Haute-Volta (maintenant le Burkina-Fasso). Ses diverses affectations l’amènent ensuite à Nancy, Paris, Lyon, Londres et Bordeaux… avec de fréquents voyages à l’étranger, notamment au Brésil. Il prend sa retraite en 2006 et vient s’installer à Lyon d’où il peut se rendre commodément dans la vallée de Chamonix au pied du Mont-Blanc dont il était un grand connaisseur par ses randonnées, mais aussi comme bibliophile averti ayant constitué une bibliothèque d’ouvrages rares sur le sujet. -
The Matterhorn Centenary 7
THE MATTERHORN CENTENARY 7 THE MATTERHORN CENTENARY (Nine illustrations: nos. I- 9) VEN though the Matterhorn fell with unexpected ease to the first party which seriously pressed an attempt from the Swiss side, the eauty and isolation of the peak and its apparent inaccessibility- the latter confirmed by the lengthening history of frustrated attempts by the Italian ridge made it the most sought after prize in the Alps at the time of the first ascent. It still remains so, in the obvious sense to which the congestion of the Hornli ridge on any fine day in July or August bears witness. It has become a tourist's mountain, as well as a mountaineer's. But the mountaineer, however much he may deplore the fixed ropes and the crowds which swarm up and down them, will still wish to have climbed the Matterhorn. Neither the highest nor the hardest of the great peaks of the Alps, it continues to exercise much the same special fascina tion for climbers as it exercised a hundred years ago. July 14 of this year marks the hundredth anniversary of the day when Michel Croz' blouse, fixed to a tent-pole on the summit of the Matter horn, was seen 'at Zermatt at the Riffel in the Val Tournanche '; when the watchers in Breuil cried, 'Victory is ours!'; and when, an hour or two later, a sharp-eyed lad in Zermatt ran into the Monte Rosa hotel, saying that he had seen an avalanche fall from the summit of the Matter horn onto the Matterhorn glacier, and was reproved for telling idle stories. -
Jakob Anderegg
JAKOB ANDEREGG JAKOB ANDEREGG BY D. F. 0. DANGAR T was unusual in the early years of the Club for a detailed obituary of a guide to be published in the Alpine Journal. Michel Croz, for instance, has no such notice; Andreas Maurer is dismissed in half a page and even in the case of Emile Rey, Giissfeldt and de Dechy, while paying tribute to him in the Correspondence columns, give all too few details of his career. Not until the death of Christian Almer in 1898 did a full-length biographical notice of a distinguished guide appear.1 As a result, the records of the achievements of the old-time guides are scattered through many volumes of the Journal, making it not always an easy matter to reconstruct the career of a particular guide. J akob Anderegg is a case in point; his brief obituary by A. W. Moore2 does not name a single expedition in which he took part. It was in the summer of r864 that Jakob, unknown and untried, appeared upon the Alpine scene and in the short space of fourteen years reached the highest ranks of his profession and at his death in r 878 left behind him a reputation for brilliant and daring enterprise equalled by few, if any, of his contemporaries. He was born in r827 and nothing is heard of him until A. W. Moore found him at Zermatt with the Walker family in July, r864.3 On July 12, this 'fine, handsome, fair man, with a profusion of beard and apparently as strong as a horse ' made his first recorded expedition, the second ascent of the Rimpfischhorn. -
Alpine Notes
ALPINE NOTES ALPINE NOTES Year of THE ALPINE CLUB OBITUARY : Election. Howard, G. E. • • • • • 1907 Roger-Smith, H. R. • • • • I9IO Gates, Caleb F., Jr. • • • • • I928 Hey, Wilson H. • • • • • I929 Hobday, S. R. • • • • • • I933 Sarpy, A. U. • • • • • • I936 ALPINE JouRNAL. Index to Vols. 39- 58. Copies of this index are still available and may be ordered from the Assistant Secretary, Alpine Club, 74, South Audley Street, London, W. I. Price 2os. post free. Copies of the Index to Vols. I6- 38 are also available, price 2os. post free. · Back numbers of the ALPINE JOURNAL are generally extant ·: prices on application. HoNORARY MEMBERSHIP. At the Winter Dinner on December 6, I955, Sir Edwin Herbert announced, amid applause, that His Royal . Highness the Duke of Edinburgh had graciously accepted Honorary Membership of the Alpine Club. We are glad to announce, also, that Dr. G. M. Trevelyan, former Master of Trinity, has been elected an Honorary Member of the Club. ScHALLIHORN : FIRST AscENT FROM THE ScHALLIJOCH. E. A. Broome with Alois and Heinrich Pollinger claimed to have made the first ascent of the North ridge of the Schallihorn in 1903, 1 but was later told by George Y eld that the ridge had been once previously climbed, • though no particulars of this expedition were ever given. 2 It would be of interest to know if any information is available about this supposed earlier ascent. G. Winthrop Young was under the impression that his party was making the first ascent of the ridge in I 907, 3 but this was not · so, though the matter of Broome's priority is still undecided. -
Manless Rope Team: a Socio-Technical History of a Social Innovation
The International Journal of the History of Sport ISSN: (Print) (Online) Journal homepage: https://www.tandfonline.com/loi/fhsp20 Manless Rope Team: A Socio-Technical History of a Social Innovation Cécile Ottogalli-Mazzacavallo & Eric Boutroy To cite this article: Cécile Ottogalli-Mazzacavallo & Eric Boutroy (2020): Manless Rope Team: A Socio-Technical History of a Social Innovation, The International Journal of the History of Sport, DOI: 10.1080/09523367.2020.1794833 To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.1080/09523367.2020.1794833 Published online: 05 Aug 2020. Submit your article to this journal Article views: 4 View related articles View Crossmark data Full Terms & Conditions of access and use can be found at https://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?journalCode=fhsp20 THE INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF THE HISTORY OF SPORT https://doi.org/10.1080/09523367.2020.1794833 Manless Rope Team: A Socio-Technical History of a Social Innovation Cecile Ottogalli-Mazzacavallo and Eric Boutroy UFR STAPS, University Claude Bernard Lyon 1, Lyon, France ABSTRACT KEYWORDS While women have been known to climb mountains since the Manless; mountaineering; nineteenth century, mountaineering is still perceived by many as non-mixed group; social a ‘bastion of virility’. Yet, from the post-First World War period innovation; rope team until today, French women mountaineers have discovered and organized a novel and atypical experience: climbing in manless rope teams to meet their unsatisfied social needs for independ- ence, equal rights, and acknowledgment of their capacities. A socio-technical history of the innovative manless rope team reveals three distinctive periods, characteristic of the different waves of feminism.