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1 - Flower Pots, Córdoba. 2 - Plaza de España, . 6 - Flamenco Performance, . 3 - Tapas Tastings, . 7 - Street Market, . 4 - La Ribera Market, Bilbao. 8 - Almudena , . 5 - Crystal Palace in Buen Retiro Park, 9 - Dom Quixote Windmills, Consuegra. 4 Madrid. 10 - Las Fallas Fest, Valencia. 10

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Anky/shutterstock.com 11 - Roman Ruins, Mérida. 12 - San Fermin Festival, Pamplona. 13 - La Boqueria Market, Barcelona. 14 - Cityscape on the Tajo Gorge, Ronda. 15 - The Golden Tower Located at 17 - Symbol of , Burgos. the Margin of the Guadalquivir River, 18 - View with Cathedral, Girona. Seville. 19 - Puerta de Alcala, Madrid. 16 - Mae West Room in Dali Theatre 20 - Sherry Barrels in Bodega, Jerez de la Frontera. 16 and Museum, Figueres. 21 - Ruined Tower, Cambados. 21

6 HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS 7 INTRODUCING SPAIN

TOP 10 EXPERIENCES IN SPAIN

DISCOVERING THE ART OF SPANISH CUISINE In Spain, cooking is an art and the ingredients, the gastronomic specialities and the tasting rituals reflect the geographic diversity, climate and customs. The famous concept of tapas started in Seville, but spread throughout the country, so much so that it is part of Spain’s identity and a customary evening ritual in cities such as Madrid and Barcelona. The common habit of tapear is all about sharing little snacks that bring out the best of local ingredients. Usually each establishment boasts its own specialty so it makes sense to go for a tour through different bars and restaurants. In the Basque country, especially in San Sebastián, tapas are called pintxos and make your mouth water for more, as you eye them up on the bar counters. Bergara Bar is one of the most famous pintxo bars. The city is already renowned for being one of the best cities in Spain for eating out, as all together it has 16 Michelin stars, the Arzak, Martin Berastegui and Akelare restaurants having three each. But besides this unique way of eating, the Spaniards have typical specialities in the different regions. By the coast, on both the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, fish and shellfish are prominent, whilst inland, especially in the areas of mountains and valleys, where cattle is bred, you’ll find tasty sausages and dishes made with succulent oven-baked kid. Tomatoes were brought from the Americas by Spanish sailors and are the base for gazpacho, a chilled soup that is very popular in Andalusia. They also brought the delicious chocolate that is served with the churros, an after-hours delight not to be missed in Madrid. But it is the paella from Valencia that is the most distinctive dish, with its creamy rice of shellfish, meat, tomato and red pepper, seasoned with saffron, one of the spices from the legacy of the Moors, winning over the palate of anyone visiting

the region. funkyfrogstock/shutterstock.com

10 INTRODUCING SPAIN Bertl123/shutterstock.com Fotomicar/shutterstock.com

STEPPING BETWEEN HISTORIC AND CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTURE LARGE CITIES WITH STRIKING FEATURES Spanish architecture is simultaneously a reflection of the country’s history and proof of the charisma Madrid and Barcelona are the two biggest cities in Spain and vie for attention due to their unique of the local people. The Roman constructions, such as the theatre in Cartagena and the incredible environment, experiences and heritage. Apart from size, they have in common the fact that they are aqueduct in , are just as fascinating as the modern ones, like the Guggenheim in Bilbao and both young, cosmopolitan cities, where art is in the spotlight. Madrid, the Spanish capital, was once the Ciudad de las Artes y Ciencias (City of Arts and Science) in Valencia, which were the drivers of just a small town between the kingdoms of Castile and , until its expansion began during the the makeovers of these cities. But in the middle, there’s an array of styles which help make Spain the 16th century. Barcelona on the other hand, due to its location by the sea, was famous as a fishing country with the third most buildings listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites. town and became the city it is today following a period of industrialisation, which in the 18th and There is an undeniable Moorish influence, more to the south of the country, giving it an exotic 19th centuries culminated in the demolition of the old city walls and the expansion of the city into feeling. The Arab domination of Spain, with the powerful Al-Andalus kingdom, left many majestic the L’Eixample area. buildings, such as the Mosque of Córdoba and the Alcázar of Seville, as well as a hybrid Mudejar And if we can see the multicultural aspect of Madrid in the neighbourhoods of Malaseña and architectural style, which combines Moorish, Gothic and Roman architecture, and was also adapted Lavapiés, epicentres of the cultural revolution of Madrid, the same can be seen in Barcelona in the El for numerous forts and monuments. But the greatest example of this period is the in Born and El Raval neighbourhoods. Granada, a sumptuous, refined palace and fortress complex, with luxurious gardens. At the same It is also in the Spanish capital that the famous golden art triangle can be found: Museo del Prado, time, the Roman style extended northward, following the Camino de , and Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza and Centro de Arte Reina Sofia, three of the most prestigious galleries dominated the , as is the case of Burgos, Toledo and León. in the world, all on the same block. But Barcelona will not be outdone, as apart from the artistic The two biggest Spanish cities, Madrid and Barcelona, have played an important role in bringing legacy of modernism, it is the home to works by two renowned painters: Museo Picasso Barcelona two very specific architectural styles to public knowledge. During the 19th century, the Spanish and Fundació Joan Miró, not to mention the historic Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. capital became a kind of ambassador of the neo-classical style, which we can see in buildings such The next largest Spanish city, Valencia, has become one of the most modern cities in Spain, with as the Museu del Prado and the Museu Thyssen-Bornemisza, whilst in Barcelona, during the 20th the mega-complex Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias de Valencia (City of Art and Science) and century, the city’s expansion opened the way to a proliferation of modernist architecture. Antoni the gardens, Jardines de Turia. On the other hand, Seville, the fourth largest city, in the Andalusian Gaudi, the Catalan architect is a household name, who left various “pieces” throughout the city with heat, has its very own personality and buzz of life which beats to the Flamenco rhythm, the flavour of his very own, individual and intriguing aesthetics. Examples of these are the Parc Guëll and the Casa tapas, “overseen” by the beautiful cathedral and the royal Alcázar. Batló, although the Sagrada Família is his masterpiece, which he tragically left unfinished.

12 INTRODUCING SPAIN INTRODUCING SPAIN 13 EXPLORING THE CITIES WITH MULTICULTURAL HISTORY Toledo and Cordoba, in the centre and south of the country, respectively, are two very different cities, but which share the fact that in medieval times they were both home to different communities, cultures and beliefs. The important thing is that these communities lived together in harmony, and left a unique heritage, because it is not so common for them to coexist and stand the test of time. At the time when the Romans used Toledo as a strategic link to other cities, many Jews lived there. And it remained so with the Visigoths and the Moors, who made it the regional centre. With the Christian re-conquest in 1085, Toledo, while still a medieval city, was strikingly liberal with regard to tolerance and cultural diversity. The triangle in the romantic, historic centre formed by the Cathedral, the Santa Maria La Blanca Synagogue and the Mosque, dates back to that period. The Visigoth Museum is also in the middle of that triangle. The same can be said of Cordoba, which was the regional capital for the Roman empire and capital both of the Cordoba Emirate, and the Al- Andalus kingdom, and which, during the Middle Ages, was a city with aqueducts, paved streets with oil lighting, libraries, palaces, public baths and a huge, impressive and luxurious mosque, in contrast with what was at that time a poor, under-educated Europe. Although the Muslims were in the majority, they lived in cooperation with Christians and Jews, so basically there was a common culture shared by the three religions: the same language, the same food, the same clothing, the same art and the same music, whilst religious rituals were kept in the private domain. The Mosque, the Jewish Quarter, the Roman Bridge and the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos are proof of just that. JoseIgnacioSoto/iStockphoto.com

14 INTRODUCING SPAIN Marques/shutterstock.com Botond Horvath/shutterstock.com

WANDERING THROUGH THE PICTURESQUE TOWNS GETTING TO KNOW THE BEACHES FROM THE NORTH TO THE SOUTH Spain doesn’t only have big cities and an unparalleled cultural wealth. In fact, its picturesque villages As Spain is mostly surrounded by sea, it has a long, varied coastline, and you will find that beaches in are small, hidden treasures, which, although sometimes remote and with difficult access, are ideal Galicia are very different from those in Andalusia, for example. In the north, the rough sea has carved for those who like driving along mountain roads, as they inspire a feeling of immediate retreat, dramatic cliffs with hidden, inhospitable stretches of sand, but their outstanding natural beauty surrounded by calm and tranquillity. gives them an almost dream-like quality. In Andalusia, in the provinces of Cadiz and Malaga, the “Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos” (White Villages In the south, the gentle waves that lap against the long, sandy beaches and the golden bays provide Route) links small inland villages full of charm with a unique, peaceful aura. The whitewashed houses an idyllic and tranquil environment. Playa de Rodas in the Cies Islands in Galicia, with its stony beach, make a stark contrast to the prominent green of the mountain slopes and the red roofs. The fact that looks as if a landslide has invaded the idyllic turquoise-blue sea, with the green mountains as a some of them have “la frontera” in their name, identifies them as being battle ground locations, as the backdrop, and is considered by some to be the most beautiful beach in Spain. But Playa de Mónsul, Moors retreated to these territories after losing their control of Granada, the last city in their empire in Almeria, Andalusia is just as beautiful, and was the set in some of the Indiana Jones films. It is an to fall under the Christian re-conquest. Amongst the twenty towns of the region, there are two of impressive beach due its crystalline waters, fine sand the lava formations that surround it. But these particular note, Arcos de la Frontera the largest of these “pueblos”, and Ronda, with its breath-taking are just two out of a multitude of other impressive beaches, such as Tossa de Mar, with its majestic gorge and the charm of its traditional, colourful houses with window boxes filled with flowers. castle on the beach, Playa de La Concha, the famous beach in the centre of San Sebastián, Puenta Aragon, on the other hand, is the least populated region of Spain and many of its treasures remain del Fangar, with water both sides of the sand and a famous lighthouse, which has featured in various hidden, with isolated villages, mostly in yellow-coloured sandstone, tucked away at the foot of the films, or even the little beaches of Begur, Sa Tuna and Playa del Racó, set in front of the fishing town’s , surrounded only by thick vegetation, occasional snow and an impenetrable peacefulness. white houses. Some of them are home to architectural gems in the Mudejar style, such as the Albarracín castle or the Colegiata de Santa Maria la Mayor (Church of St. Mary the Great), in Alquezar. Others are of great historical importance, such as the Sos del Rey Catolico, where D. Fernando II of Aragon was born, who, together with his wife Isabel I of Castile, became known as the king responsible for uniting Spain.

16 INTRODUCING SPAIN INTRODUCING SPAIN 17 Eloi_Omella/iStockphoto.com Jose Ignacio Soto/shutterstock.com

GOING ON THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO ENJOYING THE EXCELLENT WINES You don’t have to be a Catholic, or even a follower of any religion to appreciate the spiritual Wine production in Spain dates back centuries, as it was first started in the Iberian Peninsula by the atmosphere rooted in the Camino de Santiago, which was proclaimed World Heritage by UNESCO, Romans. Nowadays, Spain is one of the world’s largest producers and has sixty two wine regions, and which thousands of pilgrims have walked since the 11th century. which are divided into three areas: North West, North East and Centre - South. The variation in the Although there are different starting points, the various routes all end up in the northwest of Spain different kinds of climate and the types of soil gives the Spanish wines their different profiles. and basically three paths converge: the Camino Portugues, the Via de la Plata and the Camino Frances. La Rioja was the first region to be certified and to receive DOC status, and is still one of the most The first one goes north from Braga (in Portugal) to Tui and Vigo, to then arrive at the city of Santiago important regions. It is renowned for producing the best red wines in the country, with a subtle de Compostela. The second makes the connection from the south of Spain, in Seville, and the third aroma and a touch of elegance, mainly due to the region’s conditions and the artisan production, starts in the Pyrenees, passing through Logroño, Burgos and León. These three routes have several the wines being left to mature in barrels for longer periods of time.If you visit La Rioja you will have things in common: apart from their destination, they have stops at various points of spiritual and ample opportunities to be immersed in this art and tradition, as you can visit vineyards and witness cultural interest, such as the beautiful Gothic cathedrals of Seville, Burgos, León and Tui. the entire process and taste these marvellous wines in the most picturesque taverns. The nature of the route’s itinerary encompasses a personal, regenerative and carefree aspect: But Spain also has other typical wines. Apart from Albariño, a very crisp white wine typical of Galicia, travelling just for the sake of getting to Santiago de Compostela. And the city welcomes the pilgrims Jerez de La Frontera produces Jerez (Sherry), a type of fortified wine, which is sweet and aromatic, on arrival with open arms. The Plaza del Obradoiro, in front of the cathedral, is a pilgrims’ meeting with a unique flavour. Among its various phases, the fermentation process includes the “solera” point, where they ‘recharge their batteries’ before discovering the charming city or even before system, which blends the older wines with the younger ones so that the latter can be “educated by visiting the wonderful, massive cathedral, where the tomb of St. James can be found. them”.

18 INTRODUCING SPAIN INTRODUCING SPAIN 19 CELEBRATING SPAIN Spanish culture is passionate in the way it commemorates and keeps alive the past, whilst being at the same time devoted to enjoying every moment of the present and looking forward to the future. The customs, events and traditions reflect the essence of what it is to be Spanish: celebrating life with enthusiasm in so many ways, throughout the entire country. Many of the traditions have religious roots and often the same festivities take on different forms depending on the city. For example, although Holy Week is celebrated throughout the country, it is a powerful ritual in Seville, with impressive processions, dramatic costumes and beautiful floats carrying the various different saints giving the whole occasion a medieval aura. In Pamplona, there are no limits to the devotion surrounding San Fermin, the patron saint of Navarre, The festivity takes place from July 6th to14th July, and is one of the wildest in Spain. This designation is mostly due to the bull run (encierro), where six bulls are released every morning, and charge down the streets of Pamplona until they reach the bullring, a tradition that is full of suspense and for which you need nerves of steel. In Valencia, the Fallas, dedicated to Saint Joseph, herald the arrival of spring and have a spirit of creativity, with highly-satirical coloured towers made of papier maché and wood. These are moved through the city, along with fireworks, music and paella contests, and only one out of over 300 of them is saved from the bonfire at the end of the party. Near Valencia, in Buñol, on the last Wednesday in August, the city’s streets are painted red. No, it’s not blood, it is tomato pulp, as the fruit is used as a type of munition in an amusing, widespread battle, called Tomatina. The traditional music of the south of Spain, Flamenco, has no known date or era, and is the result of a fusion of Roman, gypsy and Moorish cultures, which runs through the veins like blood and makes the pulse race, warming the soul. It’s a passionate expression of melancholy, an authentic and improvised art form. It’s about ardent singing, it’s about the vibration of guitar strings, it’s about the tapping of shoes on the floor during a dance. In Andalusia, more specifically in Jerez de la Frontera, the birthplace of this cultural manifestation, there are various tablaos where you can witness the real Flamenco. However, with the increasing importance of the art of Flamenco, which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage art form, bigger tablaos have been opened in Seville and Madrid, which combine the art of feeling with the taste of some of the typical flavours of Spain. Mikhail Zahranichny/shutterstock.com 20 INTRODUCING SPAIN ManuelVelasco/shutterstock.com David Acosta Allely/dreamstime.com Acosta David GALICIA AdrianNunez/shutterstock.com

GALICIA 1 2

The capital of the province of Galicia is Santiago de Compostela, PEDRE/iStockphoto.com whose Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site and which is famed Photojope/dreamstime.com for its spiritual dimension, which draws thousands of pilgrims to the city every year. However without wanting to detract in any way from this lovely city and its colossal cathedral, Galicia has much more to offer. It is known as the “land of a thousand rivers”, due to the watercourses that run down from the mountains – ranges that mark the region off from its neighbours Portugal, Asturias and León – into its characteristic rias (downed non-glacial river valleys). And with its some 1,200 km of coastline, Galicia has a wealth of contrasts and a vivid natural beauty. Its relative geographic isolation has meant 3 4 the region preserving its own language (Galician) and culture, which have an affinity with those of Portugal. Nevertheless, many locals also speak Spanish (Castilian). The abundance of rivers enables Galicia to supply hydroelectric power to the rest of Spain. This is also a region with fairly high precipitation, because of its altitude and proximity to the sea. Rias, beaches, headlands, ports and islands make up the Txiriguili/iStockphoto.com coastal landscape, with some dramatic stretches such as the Costa Rodriguez/dreamstime.com Pablo da Morte (Coast of Death) and the famous Cabo Fisterra (also known as Cape Finisterre), while the interior features green hills and valleys, scattered with isolated stone villages and ancient churches. It is a predominantly agricultural region dotted sparingly with towns, as well as having a few very active ports in coastal cities such as A Coruña and Vigo. It is in these cities, too, that Galicia really comes to life, with 6 urban centres packed with restaurants, bars, shops and many other attractions. The fresh fish and shellfish, and dishes such as caldeirada 1 - Inside Santiago Cathedral, Santiago de galega, a well-seasoned fish stew, are among the culinary specialities Compostela. that are not to be missed. 2 - Octopus Slices, Galicia. 3 - Horses Sculpture, Vigo. 4 - Celtic Menhir Monument, A Coruña. 5 - Herreos of Combarro, Pontevedra. 6 - Plaza del Obradoiro and Cathedral, Santiago de 5 Compostela.

54 GALICIA GALICIA 55 Quintanilla/dreamstime.com Typhoonski/dreamstime.com Jon Chica/shutterstock.com ASTURIAS & CANTABRIA

ASTURIAS & CANTABRIA 1 2

The heir to the Spanish throne bears the title Prince of Asturias, and perhaps only a natural paradise of this kind is worthy of a future king. Jose I. Soto/dreamstime.com Given the small size of this autonomous community and its neighbour it is relatively easy to traverse both fairly rapidly, but do try and linger a Fernandez/shutterstock.com Fernandez Isa little longer. Located in northern Spain, between Galicia and the Basque Country, this area is a popular holiday destination for some Spaniards, while others hesitate to explore it because of its changeable climate: here bright sunshine can give way to mist and even rain in a single day. But it is this same climate that helps make the region abundant in vegetation, earning it the name of Costa Verde (Green Coast). Then there is the fact that the two communities are linked by the fabulous Picos de Europa 3 4 National Park, whose immense green and blue mountain landscape of flora and lakes has also been declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The region also boasts extensive apple orchards that enable Asturias to continue to produce its most popular drink, cider. The rugged coast forms beaches, inlets, bays and capes along which the main cities are dotted, including bustling, urbane Gijón and elegant, modern Santander. Kaleidoscope_/iStockphoto.com Further inland is , the capital of Asturias, with its romantic aura MarquesPhotographyiStockphoto.com and charming historical buildings. These major cities contrast with most of the rest of the region, with its small, quiet coastal towns and isolated rural stone houses in the foothills. The region is known for the diversity of its landscapes and customs, where you can even find prehistoric art, such as in the caves of Altamira. 6

1 - Historic Caravel with which Christopher Columbus discovered America, Santander 2 - La Laboral Public City of Culture, Gijón. 3 - Niemeyer Center, Avilés. 4 - Cable Car, Picos de Europa. 5 - Fabada Asturiana, Asturias. 5 6 - Old Roman Bridge, Cangas de Onis.

80 ASTURIAS & CANTABRIA ASTURIAS & CANTABRIA 81 nito100/iStockphoto.com marianoheluani/iStockphoto.com JoseIgnacioSoto/iStockphoto.com BASQUE COUNTRY, NAVARRA RIOJA & LA BASQUE COUNTRY, NAVARRA & LA RIOJA

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There is no doubt that this region on the frontier between Spain and is unique. Firstly because – in the case of the Basque Country – it is split between those two sovereign states, and secondly because it has its

own language, Euskara, which is in no way related to Latin tongues. The G C/shutterstock.com Salva fact that it is also the only part of Spain that was little affected by invasion also contributed to the strongly separatist character of the area. There are so many interesting places in this region, from the modern, industrial city of Bilbao, home of that great example of modern architecture, the Guggenheim Museum, to San Sebastian, a city set around the bay of La Concha and well known for its wonderful beaches and excellent cuisine, passing through Mundaka, a town on the coast which is very famous with surfers. And then Navarra, where Spanish traditions are celebrated with great passion and where the capital city is Pamplona, best known for the San Fermín festival every July. The historic centre of Pamplona reflects the history behind this fortified city which once straddled the frontier between two kingdoms, and also hides treasures such as Olite, a small town which has conserved its impressive heritage of Gothic architecture. The lovely La Rioja region is a demarcated 3 vine-growing and wine production area par excellence and it is from here that some of the best Spanish wines come. The number of grapes grown here mean that it a predominantly green part of Spain and the vineyards have as their backdrop the high mountains of the Pyrenees. Logroño, the capital of la Rioja is known for its great food and Laguardia, the former Chanclos/shutterstock.com “guarda de Navarra”, for its fascinating medieval remains. The number of Tramont_ana/iStockphoto.com grapes grown here mean that it is a predominantly green part of Spain and the vineyards have as their backdrop the high mountains of the 5 Pyrenees. Logroño, the capital of la Rioja is known for its great food and Laguardia, the former “guarda de Navarra”, for its fascinating medieval 1 - Buen Pastor Cathedral, San Sebastián. remains. 2 - Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao. 3 - Yamaguchi Park, Pamplona. 4 - Castle, Olite. 4 5 - Modern Winery, La Rioja.

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PYRENEES & ARAGON 2 astudio/shutterstock.com PYRENEES & ARAGONPYRENEES

Surrounded by mountains and at the foot of the Pyrenees, Aragon has an intrinsic calm, compared to its immediate neighbours: Catalonia and vichie81/shutterstock.com the País Basco (Basque Country). It is also one of the most surprising regions of Spain, due to the fact that many of its treasures lie unknown. Aragon is one huge, green expanse covering mountains and valleys, dotted with white glaciers and small stone villages, such as the charming Albarracín, Daroca and Sos Del Rey Católico, the birthplace of Fernando 3 4 of Aragon. He and his wife, Isabelle of Castile, became famous as the Catholic Monarchs, the couple who were to unite the various Spanish kingdoms under one crown. Marked by its rural air and the exodus of its population to the big cities, the region has remained relatively untouched by time, and the landscapes and scenery here are stunning. It LUNAMARINA/iStockphoto.com is also here in Aragon that unique examples of Mudejar architecture can be found, especially in Teruel and in the capital, Zaragoza. The longest river in Spain, the Ebro, crosses Aragon, and it is in Aragon too that you will find the highest mountain in the Pyrenees, . This really high, long cordillera, which separates Spain (and the Iberian Peninsula) from the rest of Europe, has an enviable beauty, and has wonderful mountain scenery, with its thickly-wooded valleys and peaks on the horizon, such 5 as those in the Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido. Enveloped deep in the mountain landscape, like hidden ancient pearls, places of worship, such as the monastery of San Juan de La Peña, are just waiting to be discovered. Lunamarina/dreamstime.com

1 - Citadel, Jaca. 2 - Landscape, Echo's Valley. 3 - Good Friday Procession, Zaragoza. 4 - Corridor of Aljaferia Alcazar Palace, Zaragoza. 5 - Arazas Gradas de Soaso, Ordesa. 6 - Amantes Fountain in La Escalinata, 6 Teruel.

142 PYRENEES & ARAGON PYRENEES & ARAGON 143 dnaveh/shutterstock.com dimbar76/shutterstock.com Juergen Sack/iStockphoto.com Juergen

CATALONIA

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“Catalonia is not Spain” - a famous phrase in the region, epitomises locals' nationalist character. Indeed, there has long been a drive towards Catalonia becoming independent: it has its own flag, language,

government, culture and, above all, pride. This very distancing of itself A.S.Floro/shutterstock.com CATALONIA

from the rest of Spain is one of the things that make the region so Kozlowski/shutterstock.com Karol interesting. After all, Spain is not just tortillas, bullfights and flamenco. In stressing what divides it from the rest of the country Catalonia sets itself apart, as a land that stretches from the Costa Brava to the Pyrenees that is diverse, unique and beautiful. From the fabulous Mediterranean beaches of Tossa de Mar to idyllic seaside villages such as Cadaqués. Not forgetting the natural beauty of the Ebro Delta, where you can spot flamingos and the sunset takes on a unique rosy hue, the medieval charm of Girona, the artistic heritage of Figueres – which harbours Salvador Dali's greatest work – and of course cosmopolitan Barcelona.

3 4 sanya51/shutterstock.com Byelikova Oksana/shutterstock.com Byelikova

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1 - La Seu Vella Cathedral Interior, Lleida. 2 - La Sagrada Família, Barcelona. 3 - Calella Beach, Palafrugell. 4 - Arab Baths, Girona. 5 - The Dali Theatre and Museum, Figueres. 5 6 - Barri Gothic Cathedral, .

162 CATALONIA CATALONIA 163 Colin Farmer/dreamstime.com Colin Radu Bercan/shutterstock.com andre van de sande/shutterstock.com van andre

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VALENCIA & MURCIA 2 Pere Sanz/dreamstime.com Pere

The long stretch of coast which makes up the province of Valencia and Murcia is a juxtaposition of contrasts. By the sea, picturesque villages lie side by side with towns whose potential has been under-exploited. Farmer/dreamstime.com Colin Inland, there is an area known as the “orchard” on account of the fertility of its soil, where oranges, dates and rice abound (a legacy from the Moors) but there is also a high degree of desertification in the surrounding areas. As for the provincial capitals, Valencia is a contemporary city with 3 4 VALENCIA & MURCIA many architecturally modern buildings whereas Murcia is a historic city whose cathedral is a testament to the importance the city enjoyed in the period. If Valencia is famous for its rich paella, Murcia is no less famous for its wonderful tapas. It is also a region known for its festivals and is home to two of the most spectacular – the fallas and the tomatina. Artens/shutterstock.com This is an area of Spain where the Arab legacy is ever-present, in both the villages and castles near the mountains and can be seen in the place names, such as Benidorm and Alicante. In Valencia, valenciano is spoken, in addition to Castilian Spanish, and is a language derived from and similar to Catalan.

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1 - Cueva de las Calaveras, Dénia. 2 - Colon Market, Valencia. 3 - Castle, Morella. 4- Guadalest Dam, Calpe. 5 - Paella, Valencia. 6 6 - Fallas Fest, Valencia.

220 VALENCIA & MURCIA VALENCIA & MURCIA 221 nito/shutterstock.com Sean Pavone/shutterstock.com trabantos/shutterstock.com

MADRID 1 2

This is the smallest of all Spain's autonomous communities, in terms of area, but it sits right at the heart of the country and the Iberian Peninsula LordRunar/iStockphoto.com – which is why it was chosen as the national capital. It is indisputably the photobeginner/shutterstock.com largest city, relatively young but with a huge built heritage in Baroque style, museums that boast some of the world's most important works of art, and stunning gardens. There are also many smaller towns around the capital that are worth visiting, such as San Lorenzo de with its fabulous monastery and Alcalá de Henares, the birthplace of Miguel de Cervantes. Just north of the city is the Parque Natural de la Sierra de Guadarrama, which is popular for walking, climbing and even skiing, but also has some picturesque villages and even a fine castle. The Castillo de 3 4 los Mendoza is a small but enchanting fortress, built in the 15th century with towers and a patio – all in Gothic style. MADRID pedrosala/shutterstock.com Carlos Mora/dreamstime.com Carlos

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1 - Churros con Chocolate, Madrid. 2 - The Prado Museum Facade, Madrid. 3 - El Retiro Park, Madrid. 4 - Mirador del Faro, Madrid. vichie81/iStockphoto.com 5 - Valle de los Caidos, San Lorenzo de El Escorial. 6 - Don Quijote Parade in Cervantes Square, Alcalá de Henares. 7 7 - Debod Temple, Madrid.

248 MADRID MADRID 249 holbox/shutterstock.com Sorin Colac/shutterstock.com Juan Enrique del Barrio/shutterstock.com Juan Enrique

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CASTILE-LEON 2 Gannet77/iStockphoto.com

This is Spain's largest autonomous region, the result of the historic ties established by the kingdom of Castile over the centuries: first with León KarSol/shutterstock.com and then with Aragon through the marriage of the Catholic Monarchs, whose domain they went on to extend to the whole country. The clearest proof of that is Spain's official language, Castilian. Since this is a mountainous region, in the Duero river basin, it tends to record extreme temperatures – hence the popular saying that the year in Castile and 3 4 León is made up of “nine months of winter and three months of hell”, given the temperature range between the seasons. It is also known as the land of castles (castillos), thanks to the many fortresses built by Christians to defend the area from the Moors in the 8th and 9th centuries. There are said to be almost 300 medieval castles here, although some are better Perszing1982/iStockphoto.com preserved than others. Other frequent sights are the beautiful Gothic churches and cathedrals along the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) in places such as Burgos, León and Astorga. But the monarchs themselves, who were both devout Catholics and lovers of art and architecture, also CASTILE-LEON had other monuments built in cities such as Ávila, , Segovia, León and Burgos. Indeed, the first three are UNESCO World Heritage sites. As well as its stunning cities, the region has vast protected green areas 5 – such as the Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa and the Sierra de Francia – that offer bucolic havens. As with other parts of Spain, Castile and León has its gastronomic specialities, mainly focused on meat, hams and sausages. Many say that it is here that you can find the best cured ham (jamón) and suckling pig.

StockPhotoAstur/iStockphoto.com 1 - Downtown Facades and Cathedral, Burgos. 2 - Alcazar, Segovia. 3 - Episcopal Palace, Astorga. 4- Real Colegiata de San Isidoro, León. 5 - Panoramic View with Medieval Walls, Ávila. 6 - Cathedral and Tormes River, 6 Salamanca.

278 CASTILE-LEON CASTILE-LEON 279 nito/shutterstock.com Igor Plotnikov/shutterstock.com siete_vidas/shutterstock.com

EXTREMADURA & CASTILE-LA MANCHA 1 2

Sandwiched between Portugal, Castile and Andalusia, the autonomous community of Extremadura is unexplored territory for most foreign Anton_Ivanov/shutterstock.com visitors to Spain, firmly off the radar. But that, precisely, is a large part of its charm. Its name goes back to the time of the Christian Reconquest of the peninsula, and comes from the fact that it was at the edge of Christendom, on the frontier with Moorish territory. Here amid mountains, valleys, meadows and rivers you will find picturesque towns and cities with a wealth of medieval monuments, such as Mérida and Cáceres – both UNESCO World Heritage sites. In more remote parts, tiny cottages are dotted about in the vast countryside. This is also the region from which many adventurers set out to conquer swathes of the New World, 3 including Cortés, Pizarro, Balboa and De Soto – later returning to build family mansions and churches with the riches they gleaned in the Americas. The Parque Nacional de Monfragüe and the Valle del Jerte are examples of the region’s fabulous natural landscapes, which attract sporty or outdoor types for activities such as climbing, horse riding, fishing or bird watching. As for gastronomy, make sure to try the fabulous Dehesa de Extremadura jamón (cured ham) and nevaditos, traditional local biscuits. MANCHA & CASTILE-LA EXTREMADURA Castile-La Mancha, right at the heart of the Spain, alongside Madrid, has as its most famous native son Bimserd/dreamstime.com a literary character: Dom Quixote de La Mancha, invented by Miguel de Cervantes. This noble hero, Jose Ignacio Soto/shutterstock.com who was born in Toledo, tilted against the stolid windmills of the highlands and rode out to save his beloved Dulcinea. The name La Mancha comes from the Arabic ma-ansha, meaning “without water”, appropriate enough given the scarcity of moisture in the region for the wheat, vines and spread out olive tree fields under the hot summer sun. While Albacete is the largest city, Toledo is undoubtedly the best known, thanks its medieval aura and fascinating heritage. Another very popular city is Cuenca, known for its intriguing Casas Colgadas (Hanging Houses). The autonomous community of 5 Castile-La Mancha also has four important archaeological centres that tell part of the story of Iberia, and protected areas such as the Parque Nacional de las Tablas de Daimiel and the Parque Nacional de Cabañeros. Manchego cheese and Valdepeñas wine are the best-known regional products. This is a part of Spain where temperatures vary widely, with cold winters and dry summers. Like Extremadura, 1 - Diana Temple, Mérida. 2 - Casas Colgadas (Hanging Houses), Cuenca. Castile-La Mancha is traversed by both the Tagus and the Guadiana rivers. 3 - Alcazar and Alcantara Bridge, Toledo. 4 - Altar of the Royal Monastery of Santa Maria de Guadalupe, Guadalupe. 4 5 - Interior of the Cathedral, Siguënza.

324 EXTREMADURA & CASTILE-LA MANCHA EXTREMADURA & CASTILE-LA MANCHA 325 Pabkov/shutterstock.com Benny Marty/shutterstock.comBenny Marques/shutterstock.com

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ANDALUSIA 2 Fulcanelli/shutterstock.com

Seen by many as quintessential Spain, since it fits so many images that visitors have about the country before they visit. A land of bullfights, flamenco and sherry, where white-washed houses dot the hillsides, and

its Moorish heritage takes the form of some of the world's most beautiful Calzada/shutterstock.com Herraez David buildings, such as the Alhambra in Granada and the fabulous mosque of Córdoba. These, along with Seville, the capital of Andalusia, are the three great cities that the Moors established in the seven centuries during 3 4 which they dominated the land then known as Al-Andalus. These are modern urban centres with a vast historical heritage and a very particular atmosphere. The clichéd vision of remote hill villages is a reality in the pueblos blancos or 'white villages' near the Sierra Nevada range. And it is in Taiga/shutterstock.com Andalusia that we find two of the best Spanish National Parks, the Parque Nacional de Doñana and the Parque Nacional de Sierra Nevada, which make an impact on account of the big contrast between the different regions within the park, as well as for their size (Doñana) and height (Sierra Nevada). But there are many lovelier, green areas tucked away in this southern corner of the country. You can go down the mountains and get close to the sea, all on the same day. From Cádiz and Tarifa, there are many possibilities, to turn left towards the Straits of Gibraltar, to Málaga 5 and Almería, or to turn right towards the Mediterranean. Gibraltar, the British territory, is famously the “odd man out” around here, although it is also well-known as the home of a colony of friendly monkeys which inhabit the Gibraltar Rock’s Nature Reserve. Málaga, a sunny, seaside town, is the birthplace of one of the most famous 20th century Spanish 1 - Moorish Quarter Albaicin ANDALUSIA painters, Pablo Picasso. And Cádiz, ancient city and commercial port, is Tihonovs/shutterstock.com Alex Restaurants and Shops, Granada. known for its fantastic beaches and is close to Jerez de la Frontera, the 2 - Pompidou Centre, Málaga. land of sherry (jerez in Spanish) and the Andalusian horse. 3 - Metropol Parasol in Plaza de la Encarnacion, Seville. 4- Castle Monument of Colomares, Benalmádena. 5 - Patio Fest (Flowers Decoration, Córdoba. 6 6 - Donkey Taxis, Mijas.

358 ANDALUSIA ANDALUSIA 359 services that may include a variety of outdoor activities but you can still expect some sunshine nevertheless. whereas landline numbers start with 900. Numbers ABOUT SPAIN (http://ecoturismorural.com/). The continental climate is found in the central area of starting with 901, 905, 902, 800, 803, 806 and 807 may Albergues Juveniles. The equivalent of youth hostels. Spain known as meseta (Castilla-La Mancha, Castile have additional charges associated with them. Although they may have basic rooms similar to those and León, Extremadura and parts of Navarre and ACCOMMODATION of a guest house, they mostly offer low-cost, shared Aragon) and the Ebro river valley. Summers here are EMERGENCIES There are various types of accommodation in Spain, dormitory-style accommodation. typically scorching and winters are freezing. Located In an emergency dial 112. Alternatively, you could ranging from simple family-run guest houses to the Refugios. Situated in mountainous areas and in the centre of the meseta, Madrid records some of go to the hospital emergency department or even a opulence of the Paradores. managed by local mountaineering organizations, the lowest temperatures in Spain during winter, while pharmacy. There is always a pharmacy on duty round these shelters are nothing more than dormitories with Murcia's climate is almost African. And even though the clock (farmácia de guardia) to provide assistance in Paradores. The Paradores are owned and run by basic kitchen facilities. the winters become more bearable the farther south minor cases. You should take precautions to safeguard the Spanish government, which converts historical Albergues de peregrinos. These are modest little you travel, Seville and Cordoba are also known for yourself against altitude sickness and hypothermia and emblematic buildings such as castles, fortresses, inns that can accommodate between five and ten their blisteringly hot summers, typical of this climate. when travelling in mountainous areas. If you are monasteries and palaces into luxury hotels. They can guests, but which may not even meet some of the Meanwhile, the Mediterranean zone stretches from likely to be spending several hours at altitude, take be found all over Spain, often in some of the prettiest basic standards. Their purpose is to provide shelter for Andalusia to Catalonia, an extensive coastline all paracetamol and food with you to guard against areas of the country, as well as other more remote pilgrims travelling along the Way of St. James. Guests lapped by the Mediterranean Sea. With very little the former and warm clothing for the latter. Jellyfish locations. The fact that they are publicly-owned means may stay for one night only and are charged a symbolic rainfall, the region suffers from the effects of drought. have been becoming an increasing nuisance along their rates are sometimes lower than those of other price for the accommodation. Summers are hot and winters are mild, but there are no Mediterranean beaches. Lataste's viper is a species hotels in the same segment (http://www.parador.es/ Campsites. There are more than 100 authorized marked extremes of temperature; it simply gets a little of snake that lives in dry and rocky areas. It is not es). campsites/caravan parks across Spain, especially next cooler the farther north you go. particularly common but it is Spain's only venomous Hoteles. Star ratings range from one to five. The higher to the coast. They offer facilities that range from the animal. the quality of the service and the number of facilities mere basics to restaurants, swimming pools, bars and ELECTRICITY offered, the higher the rating. Hotels normally operate site-operated supermarkets. All can be found in the 220v (240V in Gibraltar). SAFETY in purpose-built buildings. Guía de Campings, published annually. See: http:// Spain is a relatively safe country where, for example, Hostales and hostal-residencias. With star ratings www.vayacamping.net. LANGUAGE there are no restrictions on going out and about. ranging from one to three, these are cheaper hotels Castilian Spanish, which derives from Latin, is the most- However, some unpleasant situations can arise where than the category above. Nevertheless, some are high TIME ZONE spoken language across most of Spain. It is thought to theft is concerned so, although infrequent, it's best to in quality, offering good, functional rooms with private +1 GMT have originated sometime around the ninth century. be on the lookout. One of the tricks used by thieves is bathroom. Although its roots lie in the central/northern area of to distract their victims' attention in some way while Pensiones. Or Fondas or Casas de Huéspedes. No-frills CLIMATE the Iberian Peninsula, the language eventually spread an accomplice picks their pockets. Another involves budget accommodation, usually family-run, offering Spain has a reputation for being one of the sunniest across the entire country, due to the expansion of the faking a problem with a car. Kind-hearted motorists only the basic essentials for an overnight stay. Some countries in Europe, largely due to its Mediterranean Kingdom of Castile during the Middle Ages. It was who stop to help the "breakdown victims" become rooms may not have private bathrooms. This type of coast, which can average more than 300 sunny days also the language taken by Spanish explorers to the victims themselves as their cars are robbed while accommodation can just as easily be in an old house a year. However, this is actually a rather inaccurate colonies in South America. In Gibraltar, English is the their backs are turned. Yet another common trick is or in a small guest house remodelled in boutique style generalization. Although mainland Spain is located official language, given the Rock's origins as a British to deflate a car's tyres when it is parked at a service (B&B – Bed & Breakfast) in a part of the world with a normally temperate colony. Meanwhile, various autonomous communities station. The thieves then offer to help the driver Villas and apartments. Rented by the week, these climate, the country is geographically so vast that in Spain are fiercely nationalist, some more so than change the tyres. The pattern is generally one of subtle consist of small apartments, which may be more or it can be divided into three distinct climatic regions: others, and insist on maintaining co-official status for theft while the victim's attention is elsewhere, so do less luxurious, and are available for use by tourists and Atlantic, Continental and Mediterranean. Also known their local languages, even using them on signage. This be on your guard. visitors. as the Costa Verde, the Atlantic or maritime climate is the case in Catalonia (Catalan), the Basque Country Casas rurales. These are properties in a rural setting, zone encompasses the northern part of the country: (Basque), Galicia (Galician), Aragon (Aragonese) and EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES such as country houses or mansions, which have Galicia, Cantabria, the Basque Country and the Valencia (Valencian). Your country's embassy or consulate is the best place been renovated for the purpose of receiving guests. Pyrenees. Its proximity to the sea means it is a region to seek help in an emergency, whether of a medical Sometimes featuring pools and gardens, they offer with cool summers and mild winters. It is also the INTERNATIONAL DAILLING CODE nature or the loss of travel documents. peace and quiet complemented by a full range of rainiest region of Spain, so a cloudy sky is normal, +34. Spanish mobile phone numbers start with 6, South Africa. 91 436 3780. Edificio Lista Calle de Claudio

434 ABOUT SPAIN ABOUT SPAIN 435 Coello 91-6 Cor of J Ortega Y Gasset Madrid 28006. "Cambio"). The latter operate longer opening hours Australia. 91 353 6600. Planta 24, Torre Espacio, Paseo de la but their rates are not as good. And in shops you can PUBLIC TRANSPORT Castellana 259D, 28046, Madrid. always pay with your Visa, MasterCard or American All large Spanish cities have excellent bus and Brazil. 91 700 4650. Calle Fernando El Santo, 6, 28010 - Madrid. Express (Amex) card (the most widely accepted ones). underground (metro) networks, while Barcelona, Canada. 91 382 8400. Torre Espacio, Paseo de la Castellana If your card goes missing, contact the appropriate help Valencia, Bilbao and Zaragoza also offer public trams. 259D, 28046, Madrid; 932 703 614. Plaça de Catalunya, 9, 1º, 2ª 08002 centre: Amex ( 900 994 426), MasterCard ( 900 971 The bus company ALSA ( 902 422 242. https://www. Barcelona; 952 223 346. Plaza de la Malagueta 2, 1º 29016 Malaga. 231) and Visa ( 900 991 124). alsa.es/), provides intercity services between cities United States of America. 93 280 22 27. Paseo Reina such as Madrid, Granada, Bilbao, Barcelona, Malaga Elisenda de Montcada, 23, 08034 Barcelona; 91 587 2200 Calle de PRICE RANGES and Zaragoza, as well as a regional service within Serrano, 75, 28006 Madrid. 0-20; 21-35; 36-50; >50 the different autonomous communities. The railways Israel. 917829500. Calle Velázquez, 150 7º 28002 Madrid. in Spain are operated by Renfe ( 902 320 320. http:// United Kingdom. 917 146 300. Torre Espacio, Paseo de la OPENING HOURS www.renfe.com/). Services include high-speed and Castellana 259D, 28046 Madrid. The hours shown below apply only to high season; in regional trains, as well as overnight sleepers. low season opening hours tend to be shorter. Banks PEOPLE WITH REDUCED MOBILITY are open to the public from 8.30 am to 2 pm; post NATIONAL Public Holidays Although Spain is aware of such situations and does offices from 8.30 am to 9.30 pm Monday to Friday, and from 1 January New Year now offer some infrastructures for people with 8.30 am to 2 pm on Saturdays; and shops are open from 6 January Dia de los Reyes Magos (Epiphany) reduced mobility, it still has a way to go with regard 10 am to 2 pm and from 4.30 pm to 7.30 pm. Restaurants serve March/April Maundy to the mobility of wheelchair users. However, you lunch from 1 pm to 4 pm and dinner from 8.30 pm to 11 pm. (not celebrated in Catalonia or Valencia) will be able to find spare wheelchairs, disabled toilets Discos open at 1 am and close at 5 am/6 am. March/April Good Friday and dedicated parking spaces just about everywhere. 1 May Labour Day Some taxi companies also have adapted vehicles and LA SIESTA June Corpus Christi buses are often fitted with ramps. In Spain, and especially so outside the main urban 25 July Feast of St. James the Apostle areas, it is customary to take a "siesta". This consists of 15 August Assumption Day INTERNET ACCESS taking an extended lunch break for a rest in the middle 12 October Fiesta Nacional de España (National Day) Nowadays, internet access is available in the vast of the day. The custom is most noticeable in traditional 1 November All Saints' Day majority of Spanish hotels. Access is usually password- commerce, restaurants and some services. 6 December Día de la Constitución (Constitution Day) protected, so you will need to contact reception in 8 December Feast of the Immaculate Conception the first instance. Free internet access is also often DRIVING IN SPAIN 25 December Christmas available at hotspots in public places such as bus The legal driving age in Spain is eighteen. Citizens from In addition to the national Public Holidays, there and train stations, large shopping centres or even in any EU country, and from Switzerland, Norway, Iceland are various other local holidays set by the regional restaurants and cafés. or Liechtenstein, may drive using the driving licence governments and local councils. issued by their own country's authority. Citizens CURRENCY from other countries must obtain an international Euro (since 2002). driving licence. Driving conditions in Spain have been improving over the years. Autovias are major toll-free MONEY highways that connect the entire territory, including Although debit and credit cards are generally accepted some less central areas, and they complement the throughout Spain, it's always best to have some spare network of national roads. Autopistas, on the other euros with you for emergencies. Cashpoint (ATM) hand, are toll motorways. They are more common machines take Visa, MasterCard or even Cirrus cards, around the capital and along the Mediterranean coast. but a fee of between 1.5 and 2% is charged on every Autopistas are numbered with an "AP" prefix for easy withdrawal. Cash can be exchanged at various places identification. Tolls can be paid in cash, with a credit in the city, such as banks or bureaux de change (called card or by means of a specific electronic device.

436 ABOUT SPAIN ABOUT SPAIN 437