Salamanca - - super (small beer), galore (closed Wed for (daily, Calle (daily, Prior 4, tel. 385 Salamanca Connections bar down sit or in the res nections on C th a Cafe Bar Chinitas #18—where at Victorio, (market) on Plaza on (market) Mercado has fresh fruits

en P A small El Arbol grocery, two blocks west of t The Pans & Company sandwich fast-food chain a d (8/day, 6-7.5 hours, 6-7.5 Barcelona hour), (8/day, 1-1.5 (8/day, Salamanca Salamanca oo scene along a main artery called Calle Dyck. Van It’s F e Be Ávila t pincho Sandwiches: Supermarkets: Startthe at neighborhood classic, which has been around for ff is always easy, with a branch Calle on Prior across from Burger King (daily 10:30-24:00). From SalamancaFrom 3 hours, by Train Madrid to: Chamartín (7/day, Station), changein Madrid from Chamartín Station Atocha to Station via market is your best bet, a six-block it’s but walk north Plaza of 10:00-22:00, (Mon-Sat Mayor Calle on del Toro closed Sun, across from Plaza San Juan de Sahagún and its church—see map pageon 372). Oh Locals and students head just outside the a bit town old hit to the tapa/ 923-260-092). 923-260-092). The covered mercado meats, severalsalads, andvaried raciones Picnic and veggies 8:00-14:30 (Mon & 16:00-19:00, 8:00-14:30 Tue-Sat insummer, closed may but beopen later Sun, Tue on easton side Plazaof Mayor). Plaza Mayor Iscar at Peyra 13, has just the basics 9:30- (Mon-Sat 21:30, variety, closed For Sun). the big Carrefour Market more than 40 years— about a 20-minute walk a short or taxi ride from the edge the of old town, worth it’s but the effort as there are several cheap and tasty options. You’ll spend, average, on €2.50 a caña for whichcomes withsmall a get there foot, on go the tapa.to end To cross Calleof the main del Toro, drag (Avenida de Mirat), and go Calleup Maria Auxiliadora; after crossing the wide Avenida de Portugal, takethe thirdleft Calle onto Dyck map pageon Van (see 372). Manoli, and their son Javi serve a delicious up selection tapas 45 of (closedMon, also closed Sun June-July and all Aug, of tel. 923- Or try229-471). the Galician seafood eatery Casa Chicho, farther down the street around enter #34 at (or corner Alfonso at de Castro can either dineYou 15). in their pincho taurant grilled for fish and seafood raciones There lunch, tel. 923-123-775). Sun dinner, and all day Mon-Tue, aremany other options the on streets around Dyck. Van Salamanca movelia.es www.elpilar-arribesbus.com (tel. 923-222-608, www.avanzabus.com (tel. Auto-Res and 902-020-052, www.alsa.es (tel. 902-422-242, bus). Alsa info: Bus Alsa to Lisbon continues bus same 5 hours; bus), Coimbra, Alsa hours, 3.5 bus), Burgos Alsa 11 hours, Burgos, in transfer with day (1-2/day (2/ bus), 6-7.5 bus, Barcelona 1night plus Alsa hours, bus),Auto-Res Ávila bus), Avanza Segovia Sur, Estación Madrid’s 902-320-320, www.renfe.com Toll advance). Train info: in tel. taxi to hotel arrange your ask tion, sta train to the ataxi catch no kidding; morning, the in 1:00 about Lisbon, Campo), del Burgos Medina in transfer hours), Santiago 8.5 olid, cercanías or cercanías Metro 386 RickSteves Spain By Bus to: Bus By Portugal (1/day, 7.5 hours, departs Salamanca Station at Station (1/day, Salamanca Portugal 7.5 departs hours, for multiple company listings. company for multiple Madrid train; also possible 1/day with change in Vallad in change 1/day with possible also train; (4/day, bus), Auto-Res Santiago 1.5 hours, (hourly express, 2.5-3 hours, arrives at arrives 2.5-3 hours, express, (hourly (1/day except none Saturday, 6.5 hours, hours, (1/day 6.5 none Saturday, except . Portugal (1/day, at 11:45, Portugal departs in about 10 hours total, total, 10 about hours in (4/day, 4.5-5.5 hours), ); also try www. try ); also (2/day, 3hours, ), El Pilar ), Pilar El ), Avanza ), Avanza (3/day, (3/day, - -

Madrid

Today’s Madrid is upbeat and vibrant. You’ll feel it. Even the living-statue street performers have a twinkle in their eyes. Madrid is the hub of Spain. This modern capital—Europe’s second-highest, at more than 2,000 feet—has a population of 3.3 million, with about 6 million living in greater Madrid. Like its people, the city is relatively young. In medieval times, it was just another village, wedged between the powerful kingdoms of Castile and Aragon. When newlyweds Ferdinand and Isabel united those kingdoms (in 1469), Madrid—sitting at the center of Spain—became the focal point of a budding nation. By 1561, Spain ruled the world’s most powerful empire, and King Philip II moved his capital from tiny Toledo to spacious Madrid. Successive kings transformed the city into a European capital. By 1900, Madrid had 500,000 people, concentrated within a small area. In the mid-20th century, the city exploded with migrants from the countryside, cre- ating today’s modern sprawl. Fortunately for tourists, there’s still an intact, easy-to-navigate historic core. Madrid is working hard to make itself more livable. Massive urban-improvement projects such as pedestrianized streets, parks, commuter lines, and Metro stations are popping up everywhere. The investment is making once-shady neighborhoods safe and turning ramshackle zones into trendy ones. These days the broken concrete and traffic chaos of the not-so-distant past are gone. Even with austerity measures related to Spain’s ongoing economic crisis, funding for the upkeep of this great city center has been main- tained. Madrid feels orderly and welcoming. Tourists are the real winners. Dive headlong into the grandeur and intimate charm of Madrid. Feel the vibe in Puerta del Sol, Madrid Morning: 2 Day Evening: Afternoon: Morning: 1 Day Guernica Picasso’s (with scene. bar-hopping contemporary day), the and ahalf- worth (also Museum Prado the ahalf-day), (worth Palace Royal the attractions: top three city’s the among time your Divide trip. fastest the on even nights three and days two worth is Madrid Your Time Planning of youth. aboost visitor any to give vitality ple-watching peo and bar-hopping, street-singing, enough has Madrid Lively paseo evening for an streets the pack Madrileños when dark, for after energy some Save winters. dry cold, up for the or bundle hot hot, summers the through ter Swel market. flea at a megasize mad like bargain or at abullfight bull for the cheer Sundays, On zones. pedestrian people-friendly and shops elegant for Madrid’s time Save bench-sitters. expert and masters, their walking pets skateboarders, families, of lovers, saic a mo through hopscotch and siesta a shady to take you invites Guernica masterpiece, chilling Picasso’s hangs nearby and paintings, of collection top Europe’s has Prado The Versailles. rivals ceilings, frescoed and rooms gilded its with Palace, Royal lavish The itself. of Spain and Madrid of modern heart pulsing the 388 RickSteves Spain chapters (Northwest of Madrid and Toledo). and of Madrid (Northwest chapters June). May-early in festival Isidro San during daily generally March-mid-Oct; in Sun (some bullfight and/or a (year-round) market flea to the going a Sunday, consider chapter). you’re If (see on here next of Madrid outside Escorial, El de Lorenzo San de Monasterio the on Monday, including closed middle. the in Palace Royal the through atour with Sol, del Puerta bars. of characteristic city. big no-nonsense nontouristy, of the dose for a Europa de to Puerta section modern Madrid’s through out area this from #27 bus Ride Sofía. Reina at the art modern Prado. at the morning of the rest the Huertas). Spend las de Calle pedestrianized the (taking Prado to the Sol del Puerta from Sofía Reina the daily, open are palace and Prado the While For good day-trip possibilities from Madrid, see the next two two next the see Madrid, from possibilities For day-trip good End your day with a progressive tapas dinner at a series at aseries dinner tapas a progressive with day End your Follow my self-guided walk, which loops to and from from to and loops which walk, Follow my self-guided walk good-morning-Madrid Take 20-minute abrisk Enjoy an afternoon siesta in Retiro Park. Then tackle tackle Then Park. Retiro in siesta afternoon Enjoy an ) is closed on Tuesday, are closed sights ) is other and that can continue past midnight. midnight. past continue can that . Retiro Park Park . Retiro - - - Madrid - - ), a central), 389 Madrid to Orientation (Terminals and 2 4, daily www.esmadrid.com They offer several guided walks in ion t orma Orientation to Madrid nf I

Your afternoon Your is free other for sights, shopping, or t Take in a flamenco Take or zarzuela performance. Madrid’s other city-run TIs are Plaza at de Colón the (in un City-run TIs share a website ( This entire historic core around Puerta del Sol—GranVía, a side-trip the to palace El at Escorial. Be the at out magic hour—before sunset—when beautifully litpeople fill Madrid. tral city TI is Plaza on Mayor. English each day (described under later, in “Tours Madrid”). They can also help direct travelers the to nearby foreign tourist assistance (SATE; office see“Helpful Hints”for details). derground passage accessed from Paseo de la Castellana and Calle Palaciode Goya), de Cibeles (inside, the up stairs and the to right, 10:00-20:00,Tue-Sun closed Plaza Mon), de Cibeles Paseo del (at and PaseoPrado), del Arte Plaza (on Sánchez Bustillo, near the Reina Sofía During museum). the busy summer months, the city councildeploys high-tech mobile TIsmajor sites to around town. will Travelers find city at TIs airportthe 9:00-20:00). phone number (tel. 914-544-410), and hours (daily 914-544-410), number 9:30-20:30);phone (tel. exceptions are noted in the listings The best below. most and cen Touris Madrid two to is home types tourist of information offices:city TIs run by the Madrid City Council, and regional TIs run by the privately owned Madrid. Turismo Both are helpful, you’ll but get more biased information from Madrid. Turismo Plaza the Mayor, Prado, and the Royal Palace—is easily covered foot.on A wonderful chain pedestrian of streets crosses the city east west,to from the Prado Plaza to Mayor Calle (along de las Huertas) and from Puerta del Sol the to Royal Calle Palace (on del Arenal). Stretching north from Gran Calle Vía, de Fuencarral is a trendy shopping and strolling pedestrian street. Puerta del Sol marks the center Madrid. of is major sight No more than a 20-minute walk a €7 or taxi ride from this central square. Get your out map and frame off Madrid’sTo the west historic core: Puerta of delSol is theRoyal the east, Palace. you’ll To find the Prado Museum, along with the Reina Sofía museum. North of Puerta del Sol is Gran a broad east-west boulevard Vía, bubbling with shops and cinemas. Between and Gran Puerta Vía del Sol is a lively pedestrian shopping zone. And southwest Puerta of del Sol is Plaza the Mayor, centera 17th-century, of slow-down-and-smell- the-cobbles district. Afternoon: Evening:

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VICTORIA RICARDOS G. via A-6 LUSITANA VALLADOLID STATIONS & Segovia & r t q w e Bus Stations Campo TRAIN & BUS M-30 PRÍNCIPE PÍO o El Escorial El o Greater Madrid Greater MUSEUM Casa de Casa CLOTHING T Madrid details, see page 488. page see details, cercanías bus, public include town into for getting Options Airport. Barajas Madrid’s 487. page see For supplement. connections, moreon a€3 bus pay you’ll hotel, to your station the from ataxi take you If América). de Avenida Metro: (for Burgos, and Pamplona América de nida Ave Moncloa); and Metro: (for Moncloa Escorial, El Elíptica); (for Toledo, Elíptica Plaza Metro: Plaza Álvaro); Méndez Metro: Granada; and Salamanca, (for Autobuses de Ávila, Sur Estación Pío); Príncipe Metro: Pío (for Segovia, Príncipe station: a Metro Salidas Inmediatas the check or 9—but 8, 1, 3, track Chamartín’s generally 6and Atocha’s track from depart turnstiles, of the middle the in window it at ticket Madrid—show to ticket train regular or any pass rail with free €1.65, convenient, most the are C4 and C3 lines Atocha-Sol-Chamartín 13 minutes, 399), on page cercanías but the Madrid” Around “Getting see €1.50; minutes, 1, 30-40 (line Metro the take Tourist Emergency Aid: Tourist Emergency of Areas anytime. of pickpockets—anywhere, wary Be Alert: Theft Hel 484. page see Toledo. stations, and on both For details Sevilla, Córdoba, Barcelona, from to and AVE the as trains well as Spain, southern covers generally Atocha Segovia. from to and vay) train AVE the and (AH- trains international most handles Chamartín 394 RickSteves Spain Both international and domestic flights arrive at arrive flights domestic and international Both Plane: By to one handy each stations, bus several has Madrid Bus: By even act as an interpreter if you have trouble communicating communicating trouble have you if interpreter an as act even will and station police the 19). get to you help can ganitos They Le at Calle Domingo Santo de Plaza near 9:00-24:00, daily station, police (central acrime reporting in to assistance cards credit stolen canceling from ranges Help acomplaint. lodge or station apolice to visit reason, for any need, might who ists listing. the next see off, ripped For get you belt. if help money Wear your of apickpocket. victims to become ple about peo distract to scam is a commotion or fight any Assume police. the by way meaningful any in charged be can’t 18, they under being museums; art big three the around areas work the and cans Ameri like Teenagers dress may apickpocket. likely is summer the in jacket aheavy wearing Someone you: around people the to alert Be street. crowded any and Metro), #27, bus airport, the on the (or station anywhere Metro Ópera the España), de Plaza to Callao del Plaza zone: Gran (the market), Vía flea paseo (the Rastro El square), (the Sol del central Puerta are risk particular Stations: Atocha and Chamartín Traveling Between p ful Hin ful t s train, Metro, taxi, and minibus shuttle. For shuttle. minibus and taxi, Metro, train, SATE is an assistance service for tour service assistance SATEan is trains are faster (6/hour, (6/hour, faster are trains board to be sure). to be board You can - - - - - Madrid ------395 Madrid to Orientation der emin R Sights with evening hours (20:30 aily aily D The Pradois free everyevening from 18:00 All major sights are open. Sightseeing:

All major sights are open. The Museum of the Amer The Royal Tapestry Factory and Bullfighting Mu The Reina Sofía is closed today. These sights are closed today: Naval Museum, Pa The National Archaeological Museum, Sorolla Mu seum, Descalzas Royal Monastery, and Clothing Museum close earlier than usual today (15:00), as does the Bull fighting Museum (13:00). The Prado Museum and Centro deArte ReinaSofía also close bit a earlier thannormal, at 19:00. The flea market at El Rastro runs until 15:00. Mid Retiro day, Park erupts into carnival-likea atmosphere. Bullfights take place on some Sundays (March through flamen some and Factory Tapestry Royal The mid-Oct). co places are closed today. laciode Cibeles, Descalzas Royal Monastery,Museum of the Americas, National Archaeological Museum, Madrid History Museum, Clothing Museum, Hermitage of San Antonio de laFlorida, Temple of Debod, and Monaste rio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial (next chapter). The Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum has shorter hours today (12:00-16:00). icas is open later than usual today 19:00). (until seumare closed today. Midday, enjoy the scene at Retiro Park. age of San Antonio de la Florida, Bullfighting Museum, Madrid History Museum, and Temple of Debod. or later) include the Reina Sofía (Mon and Wed-Sat until 21:00), the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (exhibits only, Sat until 21:00 in summer), and the Clothing Museum (Thu until 22:30 in July-Aug). (17:00 on Sun), theReina Sofía has free evening hours Monand Wed-Sat from 19:00 (15:00 on Sun), and the Thyssen-Bornemisza is free on Mondays. The Museum of the Americas is free on Sundays, and the following are free all day Sunday and on Saturdayafternoons: National ArchaeologicalMuseum and the Sorolla Museum (Sat from 14:00), as well as the Clothing Museum (from 14:30). These sights are always free: Palacio de Cibeles, Hermit Sightseeing: Monday: Tuesday: Wednesday: Friday: All major sights are open. Saturday: Late-Hours Sunday: Thursday: Free

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d map/flier(free, availableat Metroat TIsor Higiensec un ro A For books For inEnglish, try FNACCallao (guidebooks and some fiction, itsin Libreríabranch Ask yourhotelier if they havelaundry service. Or do i it yourselfit Colada at Express wash,to a few euros dry) more to as well as drop-off laundry serviceand dry cleaning 9:00-21:00, (Mon-Sat closed Sun, betweenCalle del Arenal andCalle Mayor Plaza at Herra ricksteves.com/update kitty-cornerfrom main store, frontingPuerta delSol—see “One-Stop Shopping,” earlier). two travel agencies (air and rail tickets, reservations not but for rail-pass holders, €2 fee, first on and seventh floors, hoursfor and contact info see “One-Stop Shopping,” earlier). They also have a travel agency in the Atocha train station. These are fast and easy and places other buy to train AVE tickets. ductive place kill to time waiting if you’re the for tapas-crawl action8:00-21:00, heat to (Mon-Fri up 10:00-14:30 Sat-Sun & 17:00-20:30, Calle Sevilla 4, tel. 913-601-395). ciados 28, Casa tel. 902-100-632), del Libro (English on tel.ground Vía 29, 902-026-402), Gran floor, Eland Corte Inglés dry, free daily Wi-Fi, 9:00-22:00, Calle Campomanes 8, tel. 657-876-464). dores launderette 8, tel. For 915-428-492). locations, see the map page on 466. ta del Sol, Workcenter Public Transport Public tt e bus ticket can be shared by several travelers and works both on the Metroand buses. Buy tickets inthe Metro easy-to-use(from ma chines ticket or newspaper at booths), stands, Estanco at or tobacco It costs It ridea €1.50 for within zone A, which covers most the of trainscity, not but the to out airport.10-ride, The €12.20Metro G Ifyou want use to Madrid’s excellent public transit, pick the up fine ng info boothsin most stations—near the entrance turnstiles). The Laundry: Updates This to Book: updates this to For book, check www. Bookstores: Agencies:Travel The grand department Elstore Corte Ingléshas Madrid 400 RickSteves Spain (Yellow) Madrid Metro Plaza de Espa Plaza de Rodriguez 3 Ventura CENTRAL MADRID Santo Domingo Santo Moncloa GRAY CIRCLE INDICATES Argüelles Rail (CercaníasRail Commuter Line) (Long distance)Rail #M1 Electric Bus Bus Metro Line 3(Yellow) Metro Line 2(Red) Metro Line1 (LightBlue) PALACE Estrecho ROYAL (Red) Valdeacederas Tetuán Ó Canal ña pera Chamart 2 Embajadores Noviciado Caminas Bern. Cuatro Alvarado San Lavapiés MAYOR PLAZA Tribunal Bilbao Callao í n RENFE n Rosas Rios Villaverde Plaza de Castilla Iglesia Legazpi Alto Vía Gran Sol (Yellow) Barcelona (night train), Lisbon & Lisbon train), (night Barcelona Molina de Tirso 3 Sevilla To Salamanca, San Sebastián, REINA SOFÍA

Banco de Compostela, de Santiago #27 other destinations

Antón Martín Antón España (Light Blue) Chamart & other destinations Pinar de Pinar de To Toledo, Sevilla, Sevilla, To Toledo,

#27 Becerra Manuel Barcelona (AVE) Atocha PRADO Bus #27 1 Retiro ín Atocha RENFE stations are shown RETIRO BULL RING Not alllines and PARK Príncipe de de Príncipe Not Vergara Ventas Valdecarros Menéndez Goya t o Pelayo La Elipa Sc Terminal 4 To Airport To ale Terminal 4 To Airport To Pacífico (Red) Airport Rosas Las To To 2 Madrid - - - - ). . (€1.05/kilometer) 401in Madrid Tours . www.esmadrid.com and save yourself lots ). To transfer, follow signs To ). in the signs pointing the to exits. Use the helpful of the of airport terminals. Other legitimate interesting tours in English depart from the

Tours in Madrid in Tours ’s buses run all Bus info: www.emtmadrid.es night). Madrid’s 15,000 taxis are reasonably priced and easy

t oo F Studyyour Metro map—the simplified on map opposite the By Bus: City buses, though as not easy as the Metro, can be By Taxi: n ent tours,ent Check their 2 hours). booklet website or specifics for and departure times, which change frequently ( Groupscan be very small, so you almost feel like you haveprivatea Plaza Mayor TI (€17, 20 percentPlaza discount booking for Mayor TI (€17, three differ O Food and Walking Tours Essential Madrid page can get you started. The lines are color-coded numbered; and usestation end-of-the-line names choose to your direction trav of shops. Insert your ticket in the turnstile, then retrieve and it pass through.The Metro runs6:00-1:30 in morning. the At all times, be alert thieves, to who thrive in crowded stations. el.Once in the Metro station, signs direct youthe to train line and direction Linea Valdecarros 1, (e.g., station leading connecting to lines. Once you reach your final stop, thelook for green salida neighborhood maps choose to the right salida walking.of Metro info: www.metromadrid.es useful tickets (€1.50 bus, sold on €12.20 a 10-ride for Metrobus ticket, bus maps TIat info or booth Puerta on del Sol, poster-size mapsusually posted bus at stops, buses run 6:00-24:00, much less frequent Buho to hail. to greenA light the on roof indicates that taxia is available. Foursomes travel as cheaply by taxi as example, by Metro. For a ride fromthe Royal Palace the to Prado costs about €6. After the drop charge €3, (about higher weekends on and the late night), at per-kilometer rate depends the on time: Tarifa 1 is charged 6:00-21:00; 2 (€1.20/kilometer) Mon-Fri Tarifa is valid after 21:00 and Saturdays, on Sundays, and holidays. If your cabbie uses anything other weekdays than 1 on Tarifa as (shown an iso being you’re cheated.lated theon “1” meter), Rates can be higher if you go outside Madrid. There is a offlatrate €30 betweenthe city center and any one chargesinclude the €3 leaving supplement for any train bus or sta tion, €20 per hour waiting, for and a few extra euros if you call to have the taxi you. come to Make sure the meter is turned as on soon as you get into the cab so the driver can’t tack anything onto the officialrate. Ifthe driver starts adding up “extras,”for look the sticker detailing all legitimate surcharges (which should be the on passenger window). Madrid cade, and his wife Jennifer, who’s from Seattle. Their kid-friendly kid-friendly Their who’s Seattle. Jennifer, from wife his and cade, ade for morethan for my groups tours led who aSpaniard Galvin, Carlos by It’s run groups. and on families a focus with Spain over for details.) TI the Ask bike. own your for renting responsible are but you available, also are tours (Bike idea. agood is advance in hours a few least at booking so season, high in up fill can Tours Madrid”). for “Essential (search at www.entradas.com line phone by at 902-221-424, or on TI, at the ticket your Buy guide. 402 RickSteves Spain bustling. See page 405. page See bustling. closed Mon. See page 454. 454. page See Mon. closed artifacts. through ria early June. See page 459. page See June. early May- in daily almost plus March-mid-Oct, holidays and Sundays down until the wee hours. See page 462. page See hours. wee the until down 18:00. See page 420. 420. page See 18:00. al palace. Hours: some places closed on Sun. See page 463. page See Sun. on closed places some Hours: city. the throughout venues various ss ss ss ss sss sss sss sss ss Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 10:00-19:00. See page 431. page See 10:00-19:00. Sun 10:00-20:00, Mon-Sat Hours: more. and Dürer, Albrecht Bosch, Hieronymus Greco, El Goya, de Francisco Velázquez, by Diego masterpieces with ed See page 445. page See only). (exhibits summer in 21:00 until Sat 10:00-19:00, Tue-Sun pecially good Impressionist collection. Hours: es an and works impressive still yet lesser-known with Prado, Picasso’s epic masterpiece Guernica 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-19:00, closed Tue. See page 446. page Tue. See closed 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-21:00, Letango Tours Thyssen National Puerta Flamenco Bullfight Centro Royal Prado Paseo Paseo

del

Palace -

Museum the among stroll Evening Spain’s controversial pastime. Hours: Bornemisza Archaeological de Captivating music and dance performances, at

Sol

Daily April-Sept 10:00-20:00, Oct-March 10:00- Arte Madrid at a Glance aGlance at Madrid offers private tours, packages, and stays all all stays and packages, tours, private offers Madrid’s lively central square. Hours: square. central lively Madrid’s Spain’s lavishly sumptuous, nation furnished Hours:

One of the world’s great museums, load museums, great world’s the of One Reina

Museum Tue-Sat 9:30-20:00, Sun 9:30-15:00,

Sofía

Museum Modern-art museum featuring Modern-art A great complement to the to the complement Agreat . Traces the history of Ibe of history Traces the Hours: Madrileños. Shows every night, night, every Shows Mon and Wed-Sat Wed-Sat and Mon Mon 12:00-16:00, Mon 12:00-16:00, Hours: Scattered Always Sun ------

Madrid - Evenings. See See Evenings. 403in Madrid Tours Always open. Always See Closes at dusk. See Daily 10:00-21:00, Daily Church with Goya’s Tue-Sun 9:30-20:00, 9:30-20:00, Tue-Sun Florida

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Tue-Sat 9:30-15:00, Thu until 19:00, A relaxing museum of plants, with Pre-Columbian and colonial artifacts Pre-Columbian colonial and Hours: Antonio

A clothes look at the 18th 21st to century. Sun 9:00-15:00, best before 11:00. See page Garden

Americas Seafaring history of a country famous for its

San

Tue-Sun 10:00-19:00, until 15:00 in Aug, closed Historic cobbled square. Hours: square. cobbled Historic Festive greenescape from the city, with rental of the Hours:

, [email protected] Museum Europe’s biggest flea market, filled with bargains and of Madrid’s delightful light opera. Hours:

Park Hours: Botanical Museum

Madrid & Tastings, Tours Nygil Murrell’s passions for

Mayor Tue-Sat 9:30-19:00, Thu until 22:30 in July-Aug, Sun At Rastro

Royal Retiro Zarzuela Naval Hermitage Museum El Plaza Clothing specimens from around the world. Hours: shorter hours off-season. See page 452. rowboats and great people-watching. Hours: page 452. Armada. Armada. Mon. See page 453. page 409.page Spanish history, food, and wine are superbly brought together in ish sights, and more (mobile 655-818-740 and 661-752-458, www. and 661-752-458, ish sights, and 655-818-740 (mobile more letango.com “Madrid Discoveries” mixing tour, a market walk and history with a culinary-and-tapas introduction, gets you close the to Madrileños and their culture 5 people, to up (€250/group, kids go free, 3-plus Carloshours). and Jennifer also lead walking and driving tours, including Barcelona, to whitewashed villages, wine country, Jew s s s s s s s s s fromthe New World. Sun 10:00-15:00, closed Mon. See page 454. pickpockets. pickpockets. 460. 10:00-15:00, closed Mon. See page 455. Hours: page 462. tomb, plus frescoes the by artist. Hours: closed Mon. See page 455. Madrid his other tours, see www.wellsoc.org see tours, other his on (for tour details the skip aproblem, that’s alot—if wine, likes He Madrid. Hemingway’s War and Civil Spanish the plus history, Bourbon and Habsburg out Madrid’s sorts Stephen eccentric tours, themed (€10wines). his tapas On and morefor fine for drinks stops three with tour a3.5-hour get and amember For become you €65, years. 30 for over chairman its been has and Society Wellington Madrid’s Napoleon), founded stopped Stephen who (the general of Wellington Duke for the apassion with pointment). Ahistorian ap by tour or private (11:00 20:00, and daily almost old Madrid bile 667-027-722, [email protected]). 667-027-722,bile [email protected]). mo or Segway; scooter, bike, by to tour charge rental extra hours; Jarabo com), Susana and 629-147-370, mobile holidays, and moreon weekends percent 25 180/2-5 hours, tin [email protected]). through the city: historic and modern. Buy a ticket from the driver driver the from aticket Buy modern. and historic city: the through circuits hop-off hop-on, different two Tour makes City Madrid Bus Hop-Off Hop-On, O 936-222, www.spainfred.com 913-102-974, tel. transit, 649- or private mobile public (with towns €195/4 €155/2group: to nearby €235/6 hours, hours) and hours, per (prices museums in teens and kids at engaging excel and drid Ma of tours family in specialize They Madrid. through walks city Frederico, Cristina, Local Guides included. not costs admission and transportation discount; percent a20 get readers Steves Rick www.madridmuseumtours.com (€165/3 680-450-231, beyond mobile and hours, city the around activities and walk, Madrid” of “secrets agossip-filled tours, Prado Tours [email protected] www.madridtandt.com (mobile 620-883-900, perspective expat’s American an from life of Madrid stories photographed beautifully and insightful with loaded blog is Nygil’s available. also are tours private people; to six limited are tours person). Tapas wine and (from €65/ tastings (from €75/person), option wine and vegetarian a including (€15/person), tours tours, tapas old-town walking his 404 RickSteves Spain n W (guiding since 1997 and a third-generation Madrileña, €120- Madrileña, athird-generation 1997 and since (guiding Stephen Drake-Jones, Other good licensed local guides include: Inés Mar Muñiz include: guides local licensed good Other Madrid Museum Museum at Madrid team expert his and Satt Amaya Hernán organize more than 40 itineraries, including nine different different nine including itineraries, 40 morethan organize h eel www.immguidedtours.com s and their team are licensed guides who lead lead who guides licensed are team their and (with a master’s in art history, €200/4 €200/4 history, art in amaster’s (with a British expat, leads walks of historic of historic walks leads expat, aBritish ). , [email protected]). , [email protected]). , [email protected]). ; mobile 609-143-203,; mobile chair , info@immguidedtours. - - - - - , Madrid - - - - - ). p oo L 405 Walks Madrid takes you through the alace al P y o R o t Madrid Walks Madrid ). ol ol S S el leads bus tours departing from Plaza de España 7 (of d , is Madrid’s—and a t ss www.juliatravel.com Spain’s—center. for a hub It’s cious squares, a trendy market, bulls’ heads in a bar, and a cookie- dispensing convent. Allow about two hours this for self-guided, mile-long triangular walk. You’ll start and finishon Madrid’s cen tral square, Puerta del Sol (Metro: Sol). •Head to the middleof the square, by the equestrian statue of King Charles III, and survey the scene. Puerta del q Puerta del The bustling Puerta del Sol, rated Puer Madrid’s historic center ispedestrian-friendly and filled with spa Two self-guided Two walks provide a look two at different sidesof Ma A ride public on bus #27 from the museum neighborhood Paseo up del Prado and Paseo de laCastellana the to Puerta de Europaand back gives visitors a glimpse the of modern Madrid side of page (see while a ride456), #M1 electric on minibus characteristic, gritty page center old (see 457). drid.tastea Madrid, old of For start with “Puerta my del Sol to Royal Palace Loop,” which winds through the historic My center. Walk”“Gran Vía lets you glimpse a more modern Spain’s side of capital. Self-Guided Bus by Tours or Minibus Big-Bus City Sightseeing Tours Big-Bus Sightseeing City JuliàTravel (€21/1 day, €25/2 and youdays), day, can (€21/1 from hop and sight to sight as route to route you like, listeninga recorded to English com mentary along Each the has way. route about 15 stops and takes abouthours, 1.5 with buses departing every 20 or minutes. 10 The two routes intersect the at south Puerta side of del Sol and in front Starbucksof across from the Prado (daily March-Oct 9:30-22:00, www.madridcitytour.es 10:00-18:00, tel.Nov-Feb 917-791-888, fice open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00, ficeopen 8:00-15:00, Mon-Fri Sat-Sun tel.915-599- 605). Their city offeringsinclude a 2.5-hour Madrid tourwith a live guide intwo three or languages a drink stop for one (€27, at Hard Rock Café, shopping one museum no stop, visits, daily at 9:00 and 15:00, reservation no required—just 15 show up minutes before departure). See their website other for tours and services (

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C CUESTA D Madrid fitería con busy the is McDonald’s) from across Sol, del ofend Puerta Prado. the now in of May, Third 1808 May, and of 1808, Second paintings his in edy trag the captured and event the observed street, up the just worked who Goya, de Francisco mob. Painter the massacred simply and attacked soldiers The French building. this outside gathered crowd angry an of Spain, heir) king as Spanish the than (rather brother his to appoint tried and Spain invaded Napoleon When 1808. in started Napoleon against war the where spot the marks right the on plaque 3/11). its commemorates 9/11—Spain our have Asimilar (we 11, 2004 of March bombings terrorist the during helped who those honors wall on the a plaque To entry, need. of the left the of dire times in for assisting to citizens its government regional the from thanks expressing dates, to important tied plaques two walk. this end will you where just square... this into dumping Palace) Royal to the leads (which Street Arenal del Calle pedestrianized the see you’ll o’clock, ten At right. to your farther amile about is Prado the Europe; in store Apple biggest the is o’clock three At Fuencarral. de Calle pedestrianized trendy, to the leads that prostitutes and characters shady with street a Montera, la de Calle seedier the starts o’clock two At thriving. is store) department Inglés Corte El huge the (with zone commercial pedestrian how the notice ahead), (straight o’clock twelve At ally: visu oriented get office, governor’s to the back your with marker zero on the Standing indicated). highways main six its (with Spain of center symbolic the zero,” is“kilometer marker The nor’s office. office. to governor’s the walking square, the • Cross months. 12 next of the each through luck good to bring ring for each grape eat one Madrileños while times, 12 chimes office governor’s the on TV. atop action bell The Square-style Times the watches on top).antennas TV (with rooflines the along balustrades and windows, shuttered 408 RickSteves Spain one to give to a beggar outside.) to abeggar one to give (Or two, buy apastry. Buy square. of the views nice with genteel, is more upstairs each).room €1 The about icing, to go”—with ready ( rosquillas to doughnuts, answer (€1.20). Madrid’s sample Or pastry Napolitana cream-filled for its famous is shop The treat. a sweet and coffee for afast in popping Madrileños with lined bar at the energy churning the Enjoy observing oven. hot out of the goodies with at racks peek for atempting mid-July-Aug). inside Go closed tontas On the corner of Puerta del Sol and Calle Mayor (downhill (downhill Mayor Calle and Sol del of Puerta corner the On are office governor’s to the entrance of side the either On gover to the entrance of the front in directly curb at the Look Spain of on New rest the as square the Eve Year’s fill Crowds

means “silly”—plain, and listas and “silly”—plain, means (daily 9:00-21:00, 9:00-21:00, (daily 1.894” en fundada “ Mallorquina, La means “all dressed up and up and dressed “all means - - - -

Madrid - - - - - 409 Walks Madrid - , is a vast, cobbled, traffic-free17th- chunk of s or ay M alle de Postas From insideFrom the look shop, back toward the entrance and no Puerta delSol (“Gate the of Sun”) is named a long-gone for This site served as the 17th-centurycity’s open-air theater. C Plaza e Plaza This square, worth ists) couldists) “read” them. Fifty yards the up street the on left, Calle at San Cristóbal, is Pans a popular & Company, Catalan sandwich chain offering lotshealthyof choices. While Spaniards consider American fast food unhealthy—both culturally and physically— they love McDonald’s it. and Burger King are thriving in Spain. • Continue up Calle de Postas, and take right a onslight Calle de la Sal through the arcade, where you emerge into... w The street sign shows the post coachheading for that famous first postoffice. Medieval street signs posted onthe lowercorners of buildings included pictures so the illiterate monolingual (and tour gate with the rising sun carved it, which onto once stood the at eastern edge the here, of city. old we From begin our walk through the historic town that dates back medieval to times. • Head west on busy Calle Mayor, just past McDonald’s, and veer left up the pedestrian alley called... tice the tile above the door with the18th-century view Puerta of del Sol. Compare this with today’s view the out This door. was before the square was widened, when a church stood end. its top at Upon this stage, much Spanish history has been played out: bull century Spain. In medieval times, this was the city’s main square. The equestrian statue(wearing a ruffledcollar) honors Philip transformed III, 1619) who (in the medieval marketplace into a Baroque plaza. The square is yards 140 long yards and 102 wide, enclosed by three-story buildingswith symmetri slate balconies, calwindows, roofs, and steepled towers. Each the side of square is uniform, as if a grand palace were turned inside-out. This distinct “look,”pio neered by architect Juan de Herrera finished (who El Escorial), is found all over Madrid. fights, fires,royal pageantry,and ofevents the gruesomeInquisi tion. Worn-down reliefs the on seatbacks under the lampposts tell the story. During the Inquisition, many were tried here—suspected heretics, Protestants, Jews, tour guideswithout a local license, and Muslims whose Christianity “conversion” to was dubious. The Madrid doors to the left of the TI). The bar has Andalú has bar The TI). of the left to the doors a few #26, at square the side of visit (north Mayor Plaza your off finish to place good is a bar This Andalú. Bar TorreLa Oro del life. Spanish mayores plazas lesser Spain, Throughout food. or overpriced of coffee cup fordable earlier). drid,” Ma “Tours in see now (for aspot details, reserving Consider tours. walking daily offers and air-conditioned It’s wonderfully TI. the now houses and guild baker’s home once to the was towers, twin 1894. since here hats making been corner) has northeast (in the shop at #30 (10:00-14:00). Casa on The Sundays Mayor Yustas at Plaza bustles demo a painted is square The flat. up for a2,500-square-foot and million to €2 studio attic for atiny €400,000 from run one? Costs agarrote. with out of them squeezed was life the as of a priest words reassuring the hearing a crucifix, held they as strangled slowly were later, criminals and burned, were heretics The balconies). rented wealthy the while audiences, bigger for built were (bleachers sins many their listing billboards wearing executions, their before square the around paraded were guilty 410 RickSteves Spain puntilla, apuntilla, see you’ll level eye At the bull. Barbero of head stuffed the under Look tographs. pho many the in captured action breathtaking the decor. Notice (for €4.50). available are dobles cañas size larger only tables, outdoor the At €2. a drink—a order and bar, at the stand inside, Step table. outdoor at an price the is “ clear: perfectly costs your makes door the outside posted list price The on tourists. tapas expensive push may They Warning: staff. entertaining an and ence For some interesting, if gruesome, bullfighting lore, drop by drop lore, bullfighting gruesome, if For interesting, some af to enjoy an place acolorful is Mayor Plaza or night, Day the beneath side the north on Philip’s left, to building The Want apartments. private mainly are buildings square’s The The interior is a temple to bullfighting, festooned with gory gory with festooned is atemple to bullfighting, interior The provide peaceful pools in the whitewater river of river whitewater the in pools peaceful provide caña caña barra” (small draft beer) shouldn’t cost more than more than cost beer) shouldn’t draft (small the knife used to put poor Barbero out Barbero to put poor used knife the indicates the price at the bar; bar; at the price the indicates its favorite. its for voted city the and square, of this walls on the samples as painted were colors different Three here. for voting passion 1975, in a torship been there’s of dicta of end decades the Since vote. of acitywide result of burgundy—the shade cratic A stamp-and-coin market market A stamp-and-coin (Andalusian) ambi (Andalusian) “terraza” “terraza” ------Madrid - 411 Walks Madrid in a more refined setting, pop into uel (daily 10:00-24:00). This historic iron- ig M that line the street.These cave-like bars,

—fried squid rings on a roll. Emerging from an S mesones ercado de Alongside the market, look down the street called Cava de San Consider taking sidewalk del Oro’s a break Torre of one at Back in the case with the “suit lights,” of notice the of photo At the theend of bar, in a glass case, is the “suit lights” of the M Miguel. If you like singing and sangria, come back after 22:00 and visit the of one r wash down thoseTo calamares the Mercado de San Miguel and-glass structure stands from the on an of 1916 site even earlier marketplace.Renovated in the century, 21st hostsnow it some 30 high-end vendors fresh of produce, gourmet foods, wines by the glass, tapas, and full meals. Locals and tourists alike pause here for its food, natural-light ambience, and social scene. stretching far back from the street, get packed with Madrileños out dateson who—emboldened by sangria and the setting—are prone suddenlyto breaking electric-keyboard, a lowbrow, in out It’s song. the arcade, turn left and head downhill toward the covered market hall. of his of misery the at arena. Theplaque explains: weight,birth date, owner, date death, of which matador killed him, and the location. Just the to left Barbero,of longtime of there’s a photo dictator Francowith the famous bullfighter Manuel BenítezPérez—better knownas El Cordobés,the Elvis bullfighters of a and working- class At hero. the the of top stairs the to find WC, of El photo the Cordobésand Robert Kennedy—looking like the left brothers. To them elsewhereof (and in theGuevara Che is of a shot bar) enjoy anyat café/bar tables(or terrace facing Madrid’s grandest square). Cafetería Margerit occupies (nearby) the sunniest corner the of square and is a good place a coffee enjoy to with the The scene view. is easily worth the extra euro you’ll pay the for drink. • Leave Plaza Mayor on Calle de Ciudad Rodrigo corner (at of the the square), passing northwesta series of solid turn-of-the-20th-century cheap their Rúa,for Casafamous as such joints, sandwich andstorefronts bocadillos de calamares a matador (not El horrifyingly Cordobés) a matador (not hooked by a bull’s horn. a seriesFor showing photos of this episode the same (and matador healed afterward), look the to left Barbero of back by the door. great ElCordobés worein fight, an ill-fated in which 1967 bullthe gored him. El Cordobés survived; the bull didn’t. Find the of photo Francowith El Cordobés theat farend, the to left Segadorof the bull. Near the Kennedy El is of Cordobés’ a shot photo illegitimate son being gored. Disowned by El Cordobés senior, yet still using his dad’s famous name after a court battle, the junior El Cordobés thisis of one fighters. top generation’s ing a bullfight. Madrid the the to sign the follow and door the open push buzzes, lock the When “dulces” Say intercom. the the buzz nuns, cloistered for(Sweets Sale). the To from goodies buy Dulces Ventade reads: Sun).sign The &16:00-18:30, closed 13:00 3(Mon-Sat 9:30- Codo del at Calle left, on the door brown big convent—it’s the associated its is entrance church the from right altarpiece. Supper a Last with oasis aquiet is Inside entrance.) the over panel central the in wafer communion the before kneeling Melinda, and Bill century a 17th- like couple, donating the see (You to see. can for all there right insignia family’s your want you’d community, your in created goodwill the all To aconvent. harvest maintain and build was do could anoble family thing prestigious most the Spain, 17th-century 1607. in convent and In church Hieronymite this built that family rich the announce entry main the over arms of coats proud The t far corner. right crossand turn the to plaza small corner, in first church brick the the At the de Miranda. on del Conde Calle downhill heading left, then turn a few west steps, continue exit, and through the market walk you • After plaza. leveled the braces that system of astructural part are vaults underground these and on aslope, built was Mayor sphere—Plaza of atmo sake for the isn’t acontrivance bars of these shape odd The nights. Saturday and on Friday best ambience, karaoke-type 412 RickSteves Spain almendra item (a medio- expensive Galletas appear. will (and change) torno on the money your place available), options of the one or two only has she you (she sister tell may sequestered to the choice your announce menu, the Scan seen. being without since 1480. It’s set in a Moorish keyhole keyhole Moorish a in set building—inhabited It’s 1480. since oldest Madrid’s on town in door oldest This the considered is metal. with lined wood of made sign, Económica Sociedad Real the of an notice square, the la de here). (pictured entering Before Villa Plaza the toward heading left, armor of sign) turn street the and shopped—see bits of need Codo in del those (where Calle on uphill Continue • C monjas monjas torno, torno, Now for a unique shopping experience. A half-block to the to the Ahalf-block experience. shopping Now for aunique hurch and and hurch (almond cookies). (almond the lazy Susan that lets the sisters sell their baked goods goods baked their sell sisters the lets that Susan lazy the button, then wait patiently for the sister to respond over over to respond sister for the patiently wait then button, C to the left to left the door old on vent of pastas de de pastas the €9). about try Or costs kilo (DOOL-thays), and she’ll let you in. in. you let she’ll and (DOOL-thays), (shortbread cookies) are the least least the are cookies) (shortbread C or pus pus C hr , and your goodies goodies your , and isti - Madrid ------413 Walks Madrid orial em M empt empt tt A ssassination ssassination Imagine Philip how II took thiscity by surprise when in 1651 The statue in the garden of is Philip admiral,II’s Don Alvaro A ing flowers, an anarchist(what terrorists usedto be called) threw a bouquetlashed bomba to from balconya #84 at (across the street). missedHe the royal newlyweds, killed but 23 people. Gory photos theof event hang inside the recommended Casa Ciriaco restaurant, which occupies now #84 the to (photos right the of The entrance). king and queen live to went on a ripe to age, old producing many great-grandchildren, including the current king, Felipe VI. • Continue down Calle Mayor one more block to a busy street, Calle de Bailén. in the big, domed... Take u This statuememorializes 1906 a assassinationattempt. The target was Spain’s King Alfonso XIII and his bride, Victoria Eugenie, as they paraded their by on wedding While day. the crowd was throw The impressive structurefeatures Madrid’s distinctive architectural style—symmetricalsquare towers, topped with steeples and slatea roof. The building still functions as Madrid’sTown ceremonial Hall, though the city council and hands-on duties have moved else arch. Look up at what was a prison tower. Now continue into the square the continueinto Nowprison waswhat a tower. at Look uparch. called Plaza de la Villa, dominated by Madrid’s... Hall y Town he decidedhe move to the capital Europe’s of largest empire (even bigger than humble to ancient Ma Rome the at from time) Toledo de Bazán—mastermind the of Christian victory over the Turk where. Over the doorway, the three coats arms of sport many sym bolsMadrid’s of rulers: Habsburg crowns, castles Castile, of and shield the(the on left) the city symbol—the berry-eating bear. This squarewas the ruling center medievalof Madrid, tiny a remnant the of 14th-century town. before Even then, when Madrid was an Arab-Moorish community, this was the only square in town. betterdrid. administer To their empire, the Habsburgs a went on building spree. because But their empire was drained its riches of by prolonged religious wars, they built Madrid with cheap brick instead elegant of granite. ish Ottomans the at naval battle Lepanto of This in 1571. pivotal battle, off fought the coastof Greece, slowed the Ottoman threat Christian to Europe. However, mere months after Bazán’s death in1588, his “invincible” Spanish Armada was destroyed by Eng land...and Spain’s empire began its slow fade. toward downhillleadswhich Mayor, Callebusy along walkhere, From • the Royal Palace. A few blocks down Calle you’ll Mayor, findthe... on a tiny square, Madrid lion people, yet you can hear the birds, bells, and fountain. The The fountain. and bells, birds, the hear can you yet people, lion feet. your Under traffic? the Where’s did. he digging the all forMole” “The nickname the earned of Madrid mayor Arecent this. like spaces public into wastelands car-congested converting are governments energetic where Europe, of today’s typical is plaza ple-friendly peo yet grand The east. faces square this suggests, name its As de 1) Plaza into... up opens street the where one long (walkingup de block Calle north Bailén the alongside palace) to page (see tour self-guided my 420 using now, palace the visit could You • palace. largest it Europe’s make feet, square 1.5 million nearly totaling rooms, Its 2,800 decline. its before of Spain wealth the it represents ture, architec Baroque imposing by surrounded courtyard expansive its With 18th century. the in built structure, current to the palace to Renaissance fortress to Christian castle Moorish from power: of center Madrid’s been has spot this century, ninth the Since o face imposing... the steps, front cathedral’s the • From Sofía. wife his I and Carlos Juan queen and king former and II Pope Paul John one with including 1993 consecration, cathedral’s of the reliefs feature doors day. feast his as 15 May with of farmers, and of Madrid saint patron the as Isidro canonize to pope the convinced This preserved. miraculously been have to wasfound body his and opened, was coffin this died, he after years Forty he prayed. while for him plowing the did who angels by helped been to have said was Isidro devout exceptionally the farmer, Ahumble Isidro. saint, patron of Madrid’s altar) the behind chapel in a wood, on leather painted coffin (empty, tury 12th-cen the is highlight The interior. Neo-Gothic otherwise the in altarpiece—striking painted 15th-century agrand and organ, 5,000-pipe aglittering ceiling, colorful and modern refreshingly a see you’ll inside, go you If Palace. Royal the facing north, block is a tickets) €6 museum-and-cupola (selling entrance main The requested). donation (€1 for tourists entrance side the is it. This ing build started workers after years 1993, 100 in opened high) yards (110 80 and long yards cathedral gray-and-white massive, Madrid’s ( i 414 RickSteves Spain C R A at ). Or, to follow the rest of this walk back to Puerta del Sol, continue continue Sol, del Puerta to back walk this of rest the follow to Or,). Notice the quiet. You’re surrounded by more than three mil three You’re more than by quiet. the Notice surrounded The entrance. main the to reach Bailén de Turn on Calle right oyal Palace oyal lm edral de udena O ri C N ente ente at ue hedral stra S eño

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- - - - in town. 415 Walks Madrid skyscraper feet (460 tall, built of now keep now vehicles off the walkways. The II l rena Madrid Tower sabel sabel A I alle del del alle Thebrick St. Ginés Church the means right) (on temptation Evidence Moorish of walls turn in up this neighborhood and C to mostto locals. marks It the turn the to best chocolatería ized a decade it ago. Notice also orderly how the side streets are. Where a mess cars of once lodged chaotically the on sidewalks, smart bollards (bolardos) fancier facades as (such the former International are #19) at Hotel in the “eclectic” style (Spanish Historicism—meaning for a new interest in styles) old the of late 19th century. As depicted the on tiled street signs, this was the “street sand”— of wheresand was stockpiled during construction. Each cross street is namedmedieval a for craft that, historically, was plied along that lane example, (for “Calle de Bordadores” means “Street the of Embroiderers”). slowly Wander uphill. As youstroll, imagine this street asa traffic inferno—which it wasuntil the city pedestrian 1@ elsewhere in Madrid. Check the out tactile model in this square: The positionof Moorish old the fortress and walls is outlined, with the modern city faintly depicted underneath. Notice it. Feel also the grooved sidewalk standingyou’re on—designed the for white canes people of who can’t see. • From here, follow Calle del Arenal, walking gradually uphill. You’re heading Puerta to straight del Sol. tion in forced her abdicate, 1868 to and she lived her out life in exile. Plaza de de 1! Plaza This square is marked by a statueof Isabel II, who ruled Spain in the19th century. Although immortalized she’s here, Isabel had a rocky reign, marked by uprisings and political intrigue. A revolu park is decorated with statuesVisigothic of kings who ruled from the third seventh to century. Romans allowed them adminis to concrete in 1957) marksconcrete in 1957) Plaza de España the “Gran my end (and of Walk”—seeVía page 419). along the Royal• Walk the side, Theater, on right the...to ter their province Hispania of the on condition that they’d pro vide food and weapons theto empire.Visigoths The inherited real power after Rome fell, invading lost to but it The Moors in 711. finebronze equestrian statueof Philip (honoring IV the king who built the Royal Palace) wasstriking a technical as feat in its day, the horse stood its hind on up legs (possible only with the help of Galileo’sclever calculations and by using the tail more support). for The king faces Madrid’sopera house, 1,700-seat the RoyalTheater your left, Real), in To the rebuilt(Teatro distance, in 1997. the once-impressive Madrid Chocolatería San Ginés out spells sign neon zone—a red-light ahigh-calorie where—like lane of end the to the look church, of the corner From uphill the 416 RickSteves Spain the younger kids until midnight, when it becomes a thriving adult adult athriving it when becomes midnight, until kids younger the for disco alcohol-free an is place This military). the in serve drive, drink, tobacco, (buy you’re when it do all 18 can you Spain, In club. now a popular and days Gilbert-and-Sullivan the in for operettas 1650. since spot on this books selling It’s been church. of the wall to the abarnacle like clinging churros and late 1700. in death his with Spain in dynasty Habsburg 200-year the ending children, to have unable and sickly, weak, was II Charles niece), and uncle were parents (his dynasty bred in very already an of inbred most the Arguably holdings. its of some losing and wealth its of much squandering eventually rels, lau Age Golden its on rested Spain period, this Over II. Charles 1519). from emperor, Roman V(Holy Charles and 1516) from Spain, of I(king Charles as ruled He Europe. in man powerful most the him making famously and realm a vast grandparents—creating four his of kingdoms the to inherit Charles, son, her way for the paved it Spain, of kingdoms the of ruler her making died, brothers Juana’s when And more. and Italy, southern Countries, Low the Transylvania, Hungary, Republic, Czech Austria, today’s of much encompassed then which Empire, Roman Holy to the heir was Philip dynasty, Habsburg the of Amember family. royal Spanish the for coup ahuge was Fair.” This “the Philip Austria, of prince crown the to marry Mad,” “the Juana child, third their for ranged ar Ferdinand and Isabel children, their of marriages dynastic the Among families. royal other into children royal by marrying part, today. has Spain that borders same the less or more establishing Granada, kingdom, afifth conquered Ferdinand and Isabel 1492, By Reconquista). (the Spain of out Moors Islamic the driving in time no wasted Católicos) (Reyes Monarchs” “Catholic so-called The Navarre. and Aragon of ruler Ferdinand, and León, and Castile of ruler Isabel, of marriage 1469 by the joined were kingdoms eval medi long-established four when born was it we know as Spain rest of Europe feared allowing the already powerful Louis XIV XIV Louis powerful already the allowing feared Europe of rest the But throne. the took France, of XIV Louis King” “Sun the was granddaddy whose Anjou, of Philip grandnephew his and France, a former theater famous famous theater aformer disco, Eslava Joy the is door Next Ch w He Th is was an age when “foreign policy” was conducted, in in conducted, was policy” “foreign when age an was is arles II willed the Spanish crown to the Bourbons of of Bourbons to the crown Spanish the willed II arles as followed by Philip II, Philip III, Philip IV, and finally finally IV, and Philip III, Philip II, by Philip followed as From Habsburg to Bourbon (always open). Also notice the charming bookshop bookshop charming the notice open). Also (always Spain’s ...every local’s favorite place for hot choco place favorite local’s ...every R oy al Families:

- - - - - Madrid ------417 Walks Madrid an old-school deli 714, the French-speakingPhilip became the first king e Bourbon palace remained the home of Spain’s kings Next, Soccer #11, at Shop carries team regalia, postcards to of Kitty-corner from #7) there is Ferpal, (at Th In 1 with an inviting bar and easy takeout options. Wallpapered with ham hocks, famous it’s selling for the finest Spanish cheeses, hams, and other tasty treats. Spanish saffron is half what you’d for pay bers. Their slogan: “Gobig or home.” go day’sstars, official mouth guards,for and on so soccer fans. Many Europeans Madrid come to primarily see to its 80,000-seat Bern abéu soccer stadium. The Starbuckson next the is (opposite) corner popular with young locals its inviting for ambience and American- style muffins, eventhough the coffee is too fortame many Spaniards. space, with the theater floor and balconies all teeming with club ferent choice(Archduke Charlesof Austria). Sobegan theWar of Spanish Succession (1700-1714), involving all of Europe. The French eventually prevailed, but with the signing of theTreaty ofUtrecht (1713), Philip had give to up any claim the to throne of France. Thislet himkeep the Spanishcrown but ensuredthat his heirs—the future Spanish Bourbon dynasty—couldn’t become too powerful merging by with the French Bourbons. tacular late-Baroque-style palace as a bold symbol of his new dynasty. This is the palace that wows visitors Madrid to today. Construction wasfinished in 1764, and Philip sonV’s Charles III was the palace’s first occupant. Charles III’s decorations are what you’ll see if you visit the palace’s interior. from 1764 until 1931, when democratic elections led the to Sec ond Spanish Republic and forced King Alfonso XIII into exile. After Francisco Franco took power in 1939, he sidelined the roy als making by himself ruler-for-life. But later he handpicked as his successor Alfonso XIII’s grandson,the Bourbon Prince Juan Carlos, whom Franco believed would continue his hardline poli cies. When Franco died in 1975, Juan Carlos surprised everyone voluntarilyby turning the real power back over Spain’s to parlia ment. Spain Today is a constitutional monarchy with a figurehead Bourbon king, Felipe VI, son of Juan Carlos I, who abdicated the throne in2014. ofthe Bourbon dynasty inSpain the (with name Philip V). He breathed much-needed new life into the monarchy, which had When Habsburgs. inbred the under corrupt and ineffectual grown the old wooden Habsburg royal palace burned on Christmas Eve of1734, Philip was (who born at Versailles) built a new and spec to addto Spain its (and vast New World holdings) his to empire. Austria, the Germanic States, Holland, and England backed a dif

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N Ú IR E EMPLE D T E DE DEBOD L L A C Madrid enthralling, be sure to look up and enjoy the beautiful facades, too. facades, beautiful enjoy the up to and look sure be enthralling, be can window-shopping and people-watching the 1910s. While the in built Vía stop, was Gran Metro to stop the Metro España minding people more of Moscow than the USA. the than moreof Moscow people minding re in succeed Tower 1950s. But they the in Madrid (taller) built Tower Spain (shorter) the he had so and America, up with keep to he could show wanted Franco above. sky the to scrape best their do buildings Franco-era two park, the in ignored monument) are of aCervantes (part Panza Sancho and Quixote Don characters ish Span epic of the statues While tired. it’s pretty days these Madrid, of Plaza Rockefeller name). the same Once of the station a Metro plays. and theaters big the all with of Broadway, version Spanish the is section This fast-food chains. of advent the before long trendy was food American that reminder restaurant—a Cafeteria York Nebraska the see City. even You’ll New and of Chicago buildings the to emulate 1930s the in built Vía,” Gran “American the considered is España, de tostop Plaza detour. little eye-opening an it find or Some so. ablock down McDonald’s the from pulses action The for prostitutes. its notorious Montera is la de first). Calle city’s one ofleft, the the was To corner at the Telefónica (the 1920s 14-story skyscraper vibe a young and shops brand-name famous with town, in zone pedestrian trendiest the is Fuencarral de up. To meet Calle streets right, the pedestrianized recently two where stop, starts Metro Callao to stop the Metro ries. Philip II (1527-1598) II site his on this Philip ries. fortress awooden made antiques. royal and tourists with packed interior, original sumptuous most the arguably It has Schönbrunn. and Vienna’s after Versailles palace, third-greatest is Europe’s This sss Vía. Gran of to start the reach Artes Belles de Circulo of in immediately front boulevard the and the cross • busy elevator Descend see), to rightthe old town. hard is (and far the at finally, And, Museum. Prado the is green by surrounded building low-slung big the right, to the Farther Park. Retiro vast 453). the is that Behind page Cibeles—see de (Palacio deck observation and center cultural bombastic and ornate its with Cibeles, de of Plaza part are below fountain and circle towers).traffic big The twin slanted striking 420 RickSteves Spain t r e w The palace is the product of many kings over several centu several over kings many of the product is palace The R This first stretch, from the Banco de Banco the from stretch, first This Vía: Gran 1910s End your walk at Plaza de España (with (with España de at Plaza walk End your España: de Plaza Metro Callao the from stretch, final The Vía: Gran 1930s Gran the fromVía stretch, second The Vía: Gran 1920s o y al Palace (Palacio Sights in Madrid R eal ) - - - Madrid

- - - - - tour.

is much more 421Madrid in Sights as Spain’s capital. When governing center when established he Madrid that palace burned down, the current structure was built by King Philip Philip V wanted to V (1683-1746). make his it own private Versailles, matchto his French upbringing: He was born in Versailles—the grandson Louisof XIV—and ordered his tapas . The palace mostis crowdedon Short English descriptions posted in each room Free lockers Free and are a WC just past the ticket booth. You can wander You your on own join or a €4 guided Services: Tours: Today’s palace isToday’s ridiculously supersized—with 2,800 rooms, Cost and Hours: open daily €11; April-Sept 10:00-20:00, Crowd-Beating Tips: Information: Upstairs you’ll findmore a serious bookstore with good bookson Spanish history. Check the time the of next English-language tour and decide as you buy your ticket; the tours are dry, depart sporadically, and aren’t worth a long wait. The excellent €4 audioguide interesting. tons of luxurious of tons tapestries, a king’s ransom chandeliers, of fres Oct-March 10:00-18:00, last entry hour one before closing; from Puerta delSol, walk 15 minutes down pedestrianized Calle del Arenal (Metro: Ópera); palace can close royal for functions—con in French. His son, Charles III statue (whose graces Puerta del added Sol), interior decor in the Italian style, since he’d spent his formative years in These Italy. civilized Bourbon kings were trying raiseto Spain the to cultural level the of rest Europe. of They hired foreign artists oversee to construction and established local Span ish porcelain and tapestry factories copy to works in done Paris or Brussels. Overthe years, the palace was expanded andenriched, as each Spanish king tried his outdo to predecessor. coes by Tiepolo,priceless porcelain, and bronze decor covered in gold leaf. While these days the royal family lives in a mansion a few miles this away, place still functions as the ceremonial palace, usedformal for state receptions, royalweddings, andtourists’ day dreams. firm advance. in Wednesdays and Thursdays, it’s when free locals.for On any day, arrive early go or late avoid lines to and crowds. Madrid Card hold ersget skipto the line:around Enter the right side the at group entry point, a block down, along Calle de Bailén. whatcomplement I describe in Themuseum tour. my guidebook demonstrates a passion meaningless for 914-548-800, data. Tel. www.patrimonionacional.es Madrid 422 RickSteves Spain its lunch special is good and reasonable—three courses for €15 for €15 courses reasonable—three and good is special lunch its While Palace. Royal the from park the across immediately egance el fin-de-siècle boasting Oriente, de Café is option great Another Arenal. del Calle or on Theater Royal the near a place find and minutes a few bar), to walk Iprefer salad (with upstairs cafeteria s a o i u y t r e w q Gala Dining Hall Lounge Yellow Room Porcelain Charles IIIBedroom Room Gasparini Antechamber Lounge Hall ofColumns Room Guard Grand Stairs Exterior Eating: Photography: To Campo del Moro-Plaza Incógnita Though the palace has a refreshing air-conditioned air-conditioned refreshing a has palace the Though Not allowed. Not Royal Palace Plaza de Caballerizas Plaza de la Armer la de Plaza Crystal Rooms 2! 2) ; l k j h g f d Courtyard Stradivarius Room To Armory Throne Room Royal Chapel Courtyard & Crockery Room Silver Room Cinema Crown &Scepter Room Queen’s Boudoir ía Not t o Sc

ale CALLE BAILÉN CALLE - Madrid - - - - 423Madrid in Sights ). - - - - In the days, old horse-drawn carriages would Grand Stairs: Gazing the up imposing staircase, you Palace Exterior: The palace sports French-Italian the Ba Atthe first landing, burthe Palace Lobby: Continue the to up the of top stairs. Before entering the first w q Self-Guided Tour drop you off here. Today, stretchToday, drop youlimos offhere. do the same thing for gala events. (If taking you’re a guided palace this tour, is where you wait begin.)to Themodern black bust in the cornerJuan of is Carlos king,” I,a “people’s who is credited with bringing democracy to Spain after 36 years under dictator Franco. (Juan Carlos passed the throne his to son in 2014.) > You’ll follow a simple one-way circuit a single on floor covering more than20 rooms. • Buy your ticket, pass through the bookstore, stand in the middle of the vast open-air courtyard, and the palace face entrance. (served Mon-Fri 13:00-16:00)—the(served Mon-Fri restaurant and terrace menus are pricey (Plaza de Oriente 2—for location see map page on 474, www.cafedeoriente.estel.915-413-974, can see that Spain’s kings wanted make to a big first impression. Whenever high-end dignitaries ar rive, fancy carpets are rolled down the stairs the (notice little metal Beginbar-holding hooks). your as cent,steps up that are intentionally shallow, making your climb slow and regal. Overhead, the white- ceilingand-blue fresco gradually opens your to up shows view. It the Spanish king, sitting clouds, on sur rounded female by Virtues. roque architecture so popular in the century—heavy 18th columns, classical-looking statues, a balustrade roofline, and false-front en trance. The entire building is madeof gray-and-white local stone (very little wood) prevent to the kind fire of that leveled previ the ous castle. Imagine the place in with its heyday, a courtyard full of soldiers parade, on a lantern-lit or scene horse of carriages arriving a ball.for • Enter the palace and show your ticket. gundy coat arms of represents Felipe VI,the Spain’s son of previous king, Juan Carlos. C.J. knew Spain was ripe democracy for after Francisco dictatorial Franco’s regime. Rather than become “Juan the Brief” some were nicknaming (as returnedhe him), real power the to parliament. You’ll see his (fig headure) the on back the of Spanish €1 and €2 coins. Madrid f w Rmn meos on n pi, aual md te ig feel king the made blue-walled... the enter you Next, good. naturally Spain, in born emperors Roman two of emperor Roman ruler—the on Trajan—depicted the ceiling.“triumphing” of great heroics The Trajan, one similarly a of company the enjoy would signed the treaty finalizing Spain’s entry into the European Union. the European into entry Spain’s finalizing treaty the signed king the 1985, in that here, it was because to Spaniards important is room this in table stone inlaid fine The hand. way—by tional tradi the woven was carpet the new produced, recently Though one). modern to the next (displayed carpet original older the made that works same the factory, tapestry royal Madrid’s by produced 1991. new, is from It was stitching) (folded to the show over left on the carpet the 18th century, the from dates palace the in see mother). own of Charles’ face the (with Venus mother up at his gazing of heaven, clouds the in standing III) of Charles face narrow the with (in red, Aeneas hero legendary (see sidebar). the Tiepolo It depicts Giambattista Venetian painter great the by series in a see we’ll first the is fresco ceiling the room, this In decorate. they room of the function to the relate frescoes ceiling the for chosen themes the palace, the Throughout family. royal Spain’s by ahobby as amassed of hundreds of acollection part order—are working in clocks—still old The symmetry. room the to give added doors, fake two the Notice room. simple relatively George Washington), and his wife, María Luisa (who the wore Luisa María wife, his and Washington), George adim-witted abit like (looking IV Charles King successor, and son III’s of Charles Goya—are de Francisco by originals paintings—all 1759-1788). his comes First III (r. Charles King of quarters living the were rooms several next The • fullest. to the enjoy life can people the where environment an providing while Apollo, as smartly as state of chariot the to drive is king of agood mark the that a reminder is This gang. a convivial with song and women, wine, enjoys chus Bac while sun, of the chariot the driving Apollo is Tiepolo’s style) Raphael. by signs de from Belgian, 17th-century are palace) the in see you’ll most (like 2010tapestries World The their Cup victory. after team soccer here) national its honored in to be and used table 1985 (the fancy in Union the European joined formally Spain where is This certs. con intimate and ceremonies for formal used is space this today Bourbon dynasty in Spain in 1700 and had this palace built. built. palace this had 1700 and in Spain in dynasty Bourbon V, the Philip C.’s began who great-great-g-g-g-great-grandfather of J. bust marble white a to find door of the right to the look room, 424 RickSteves Spain y r e Notice the carpets in this room. Although much of what you you of what much Although room. this in carpets the Notice The central theme in the ceiling fresco (by Jaquinto, following following (by Jaquinto, fresco ceiling the in theme central The

Antechamber: Originally a ballroom and dining room, room, dining and aballroom Originally ofColumns: Hall Guard Room: Guard The palace guards used to hang out in this this in out hang to used guards palace The This was Charles III’s dining room. The four Thefour room. dining III’s Charles was This t

lounge (with red walls), where the king the where walls),(withred - - - - Madrid ------425Madrid in Sights - - - (1716-1788)

arles was an enlightened ruler who who ruler enlightened an was arles III Ch (Gasp!) The entire (Gasp!) room is designed, top

Of the many monarchs who’ve enlarged enlarged who’ve monarchs many the Of or redecorated the Royal Palace, it was Charles IIIwho set the tone for its Ba mother Charles’ interior. roque-Rococo was Italian, and he spent his formative Spain’s became he When Italy. in years sophisticat along brought he king, ed Italian artists decorate to his new architect the Tiepolo, painter home—the Gasparini. decorator the and Sabatini, They created some of the mostelabo rate, jaw-dropping rooms tourists see in today. palace the tried reform to Spain along democratic Spain death, his After failed. He principles. Charles Gasparini Room:

The 12-foot-tall clock—show u dwindled into repressive irrelevance. But over the centuries, each ofhis successors labored top to Charles in ostentatious decora tion, making Madrid’s Royal Palace his greatest legacy. pants in the palace). María Luisa was famously hands-on, tough, and businesslike, while Charles IV was pretty wimpy as far as kings go. meet the demand his for work,To Goya made replicas these of por traits, which you’ll see in thePrado. ing Cronus, god time, of in porce lain,bronze, and mahogany—sits a music box.on Reminding us of timehow flies,Cronus is shown both as a child and as old an man. The palace’s clocks are wound—and reset—once(they a week grow progressively less accurate as the week The goesgilded on). decor you see throughout the palace is bronze withgold leaf. Velázquez’s famouspainting, Meninas Las (which you’ll marvel inat the Prado), originally hung in this room. to bottom,to as a single gold-green-pink ensemble: from the frescoed ceiling, the to painted stucco figures, silk-embroidered walls, chan delier, furniture, and multicolored marble Each floor. marble was quarried in, and therefore represents, a different regionof Spain. Birds overhead spread their wings, vines sprout, and fruit bulges from the surface. With curlicues everywhere (including their re flection in the mirrors), the room dazzles the eye and mind. a It’s Madrid hangs on the wall. The ceiling fresco shows Charles establishing establishing Charles shows fresco ceiling The wall. on the hangs (in blue) of Charles order. Aportrait religious of Charles’ monks the blue-clad room’s The recalls scheme color man. blue great the to honor room the redid VII, Ferdinand grandson, 1788.in His Pass through the silk room to reach... silk room the through Pass Juan S.”Carlos I monarchs “J. C. and the indicates Sofía. twined former inter times—the modern from is wallpaper silk the room, next the In • wig. his toy with and leotards on his pull rors—would mir height of the the on aplatform—notice standing king, the as here assemble would bigwigs court The affair. apublic was dressing mirrors. wall the in reflecting of crystal canopy ing glitter its with especially mesmerizing, is palace, the in biggest the chandelier, The mid-1800s. the in to Rome visit any from souvenir threads. gold and silk, silver, on the back embroidering then and fabric silk rotten the replacing years three spent people Sixty restored. recently was walls the gracing fabric plaster.) or wet The stucco, from formed were palace, the in many like figures, (These ceiling. of the corners the into sculpted people Chinese the as such motifs exotic with style, Rococo of the triumph 426 RickSteves Spain Rococo art. Rococo and Baroque of flowering final the as cited often are frescoes Palace Royal Tiepolo’s below. room the of furniture boyant flam the with seamlessly blend ceilings curvaceous colorful, His frame. picture the over spill that ures fig stucco 3-D with painting 2-D mixes He angle. at every tumbling figures of skyscapes dizzying creating l’oeil), (trompe eye” the to “fool trick every gods and pudgy cherubs. Tiepolo used Greek with cavort royals Spanish where heaven, to a cloud-filled up to open dried. it before it painting quickly and ing ceil the on plaster troweling technique, fresco the in decorating scaffolding atop years four spent They assistants. as sons well-known two his with Italy from trip the made Tiepolo Sixty-six-year-old palace. built newly the in rooms three decorate to (1696-1770), Tiepolo Giambattista painter, ace pal celebrated most Europe’s invited III Charles King 1762, In i The room was the king’s dressing room. For a divine monarch, monarch, divine room. For a dressing king’s the was room The or aristocratic royal typical table—a micro-mosaic Note the

Ti Charles III died here in his bed bed his in here died III Charles Bedroom: III Charles epolo’s translucent ceilings seem Tiepolo’s FrescoesTiepolo’s ------Madrid ------Cin 1@ 427Madrid in Sights Gala Dining Hall: 12 to Up times a year, the king enter Porcelain Room: This Room: Porcelain tiny but lavish room is paneled with Silver Some this Room: of 19th-century silver tableware—

Yellow Lounge: Yellow This was a studyCharles for III. The prop The chandelier is in the shapeof the (thefleur-de-lis symbol 1# 1! 1) o cal figures. entireThe ensemble was disassembledfor safety during the civil war. (Find the little screws in the greenery that hides the seams between panels.) Notice the clock in the center with Atlas supporting the his on world shoulders. green-white-gold porcelain garlands, vines, babies, and mythologi his with order, its various Virtues. (female) At the base the of ceil of theof Bourbon family) capped with a Spanish crown. As you exit theroom, notice the thick walls between rooms. These hid service corridors servants,for who scurried about mostly unseen. ing (near the harp find player) the baby in hismother’s arms—that would himself, beFerdy the male long-sought heir, preparing to continue Charles’ dynasty. knives and forks, bowls, salt and pepper shakers, and the big tu erly cut crystal the of chandelier shows all the colors the of rainbow. Stand under it, look and up, sway slowly see to the colors glitter. This a not particularlyis precious its room. decorBut pops because the lights are generally left on. Imagine the entire palace as bril liant as this when fully lit. As you leave the room, look back the at chandelier notice to its design with a temple of a fountain inside. • Next comes the... tains as many as guests 144 this at bowling lane-size table, which can be extended the to length the of room. The parquet floor was the preferred dancing surface when balls were held in this fabulous room. the Note vases from China,the tapestries, and the ceiling fresco depicting Christopher Columbus kneeling before Ferdinand and Isabel, presenting exotic souvenirs and his red-skinned new, friends. Imagine this hall in action when a foreign dignitary dines here. The king and queenpreside from the of center the room. Find their chairs (slightly higher than The the tables rest). are set with fine crystal and cutlery(which we’ll seeof rooms a couple later). And the place whole glitters as the 15 chandeliers their (and 900 bulbs)are fired up. (Theroyal kitchens, where the gala dinners were prepared, may be open viewing; for ask the staff whereto enter.) • Pass through the next room of coins and medals, known as the reen—isused inthe Gala DiningHall specialon occasions. Ifyou look carefully, you can see quirky royal necessities, including a baby’s silver rattle and fancy candle snuffers. • Head ahead straight the... to ema Room because the royal family once enjoyed Sunday afternoons at the movies here. Theroyal string ensemble played hereto entertain dur formaling dinners. From here, move the... into Madrid way. Continue your visit through the Antechamber, where ambassadors ambassadors where Antechamber, the through visit your Continue way. • Walk and intoRoom hall the back through courtyard the Stradivarius one. modern VI’s Felipe and pen classic traditional Carlos’ Juan with: to sign chose man each implement writing which Notice of Spain. king as acceptance VI’s Felipe and crown of the dication ab Carlos’ of Juan 2014 for the proclamations Look middle. the in case aglass in displayed are II, Carlos king, Habsburg last ofter the popular. very are jects—and sub their with empathizing and approachable to be apoint ing seriously—mak responsibilities and roles their take royals Spain’s room. palace another if as decorated was which courtyard, this in party wedding (for their acommoner love) celebrated and married VI, king, Felipe new The level. ground on the were storerooms and garage, kitchens, The upstairs. was staff while floor middle spacious atime. at room cling one cir been you’ve courtyard interior the notice and hallway the to Exit • ware. crystal 19th-century II’s excellent out Isabel check leave, you As secret. aroyal kept was itself nique tech porcelain The figurines). Hummel-like cutesy (and knockoffs high-quality to produce Meissen) or Germany’s France’s Sèvres as (such works porcelain own its to have had family royal European self-respecting any demand, such in was crockery Chinese Since West. to the opened was country that before China from came it on display; pieces various of the rarest and oldest the is china • Continue into the room at the far the left. at into room the • Continue million. for $15 sell might instrument Today,these. Stradivarius a single with around fiddled man, acultured III, Charles acello. and viola, a violins, two set: quartet matching only the and collection best world’s the is This (1644-1737), survive. 300 only Stradivarius nius through the • Pass case. in just here are thrones the palace), to the adjacent cathedral (they the here prefer worship rarely royals the While babies. for royal back the room” in “crying Note the century. 19th the in pope the by king Spanish the to given St. of body Felix, entire the contains case glass The chapter). (see next royalty past of Spain’s rest the to join Escorial El trip to sad the making before here sits coffin royal The funerals. and into the... and and Ferdinand), you’ll enter the... enter Ferdinand),and you’ll • Between statues of two of the giants of Spanish royal history (Isabel 428 RickSteves Spain 1( 1* 1^ 1% 1$

Stradivarius Room: Stradivarius Crown and Scepter Room: This chapel is used for private concerts and concerts for private used is chapel This Chapel: Royal Courtyard: Courtyard: Philip V’s collection of collection V’s Philip Rooms: Crystal and Crockery 1&

Queen’s Boudoir Queen’s You can see how the royal family lived in the the in lived family royal You how the see can Of all the instruments made by Anto by made instruments the all Of The stunning crown and scep and crown stunning The —where royal ladies hung out— hung ladies royal —where ------Madrid ------429Madrid in Sights Throne Room: This room, where the Spanishmonarchs Armory: Here you’ll find weapons and armor belongingto

The throne stands under a gildedon a raisedcanopy, platform, The ceiling is the last (1764) frescogreat(see by work Tiepolo Today, this room is where theking’s Today, guests salute him before 2! 2) many great Spanish historical figures. Whileit of was some actu ally fighting, for remember that the great royal pastimes included would wait to present themselves, and the whereofficials Smallreceivedare by royalty and have their taken.photos Walk Official Chambers, twothrough rooms, tapestrieswith bluedecorated andin red andpaint ings, the grand to finale,the... guarded by four lions (symbols power of found throughout the pal preside,the is of one palace’s most glorious. And holds manyit theof oldest andmost precious things in the palace: silver-and- crystal chandeliersMurano Island), elaborate Venice’s (from lions, and black bronze statues from the fortress that stood here before fire.the 1734 The 12 mirrors,impressively large intheir each day, represent a differentmonth. sidebar page on who died 426), in Madrid His in vast 1770. paint they dinner. move to on receives He them relatively informally... standing floor at level, rather than seatedon up the throne. ace). The of coat armsace). above the throne shows the complexityof the Bourbon empire across Europe—which, in the century, 18th in cluded Tirol, Sicily, Burgundy, the Netherlands, and more. Though theroom was decorated under Charles III (late century), 18th the throne itself In dates Spain, only from a new 1977. throne isbuilt eachfor king queen, or complete with a gilded portrait the on back. chairsThe room’s also indicate previous the monarchs—“JC I” and “Sofía.” WithJuan Carlos’ abdication, thechairs mayhave not changed yet. names celebrates feet) ing × 32 (88 the vast Spanish empire—upon which the sun also never set. The Greek gods look down from the clouds, overseeing Spain’s empire, whose territories are represented by the people ringing the edges the of ceiling. Find the Native Ameri can(hint: follow the rainbow the to macho red-caped conquistador who motions someone to the has he near From conquered). end of the tourists room (where stand), admire look to up skill Tiepolo’s at making a pillar seem shoot to straight into the up Thepillar’s sky. pedestal has an inscription celebrating boss, Tiepolo’s Charles III (“Carole Magna”). Notice the how painting spills over the gilded wood frame, statues where 3-D recline alongside painted 2-D fig ures. All the of decorations—the throne room’s fresco, gold gar lands, mythological statues, wall medallions—unite in a multime extravaganza.dia start.the at stairwaygrandclimbedyousame palacedownthe the Exit • Cross the big courtyard, heading corner the far-right to the... to Madrid h plc o te ig ae te aae f h bso (h cathedral). (the kings, bishop knickknacks, the chandeliers, frescoes, of rooms, those all palace After the Whew. faces king the of palace the how Notice palace. the face and square huge the of center the toWalk • fountains. with dotted park, city is a now ground, king’s hunting the once backyard, palace vast The Toledo) century. capital, ninth the historic since the for protecting (great spot located strategically on this built have rulers why clear to viewpoint. the exit armory the steps from the • Climb door).(to of exit right dents bullet with dimpled breastplates life-saving the notice leave, you Before getups. clunky these in gracefully and play fight, ride, to expected be would adults as who for noble youngsters, armor training in. It’s to fight for wasn’t children see may you armor size pint-armor.The Asian and guns early find You’ll 17th century. alot. road on the to be was govern effectively way to the only when back king” “fit for a aces pal many made They space. living their to decorate of royals ahead traveled Tapestries one. this predated that palace stark otherwise armory. this founding by armor of collection impressive his protected specifically and death his after estate his ransack would collectors debt that anticipated Protestants, the against wars his with Spain ip, impoverished who Phil downward. slide long its start Spain watched who king the II, Prado). (in the of him painting famous Titian’s in as pose same the assumes and armor same the wears king the of mannequin The on horseback. Charles meet you’ll end, far the At V). Charles emperor Holy Roman the I(a.k.a. of Charles II. Philip son his Iand Charles peak, century at 16th- its Spain ruled who kings great two to the belonged pieces play. of the Many up for tournament suited horseback—mostly temporary. con Boabdil’s and of Isabel, husband the to Ferdinand, belonged swords and IV, 1492. case armor in In the Granada surrendered who king, Moorish last the to Boabdil, belonged dagger and belt, sword, shield, the (case III), case central the In collection. the in clockwise. room big the Circle Escorial). El or from fortress earlier the from here (it came built was palace this before times, Habsburg from dates armor emony. of this Much or cer for sport largely was armor and tournaments, and hunting 430 RickSteves Spain Looking down from this high bluff, it’s bluff, high this from down Looking Gardens: ofthe View the from mostly collection a mixed more armor, is Downstairs the of walls the warmed once armor the above tapestry The Philip of weapons and armor the showcases wall opposite The wardrobe armor personal the displays left the on wall long The armor on in knights with filled is room the center of The pieces oldest the see you’ll left, on the cases glass three the In - - - - Madrid - - - - - ).

d 431Madrid in Sights oo ional del Prado) h

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us eig M N al P ol place the enjoy to great Spanish painter y S o If visiting all three museums, you can save a R el eum eum d e useum ( us h a M t t M ’ considered by manybe to the world’s finest painting, pe d . uer een ri P Prado Combo-Ticket: Cost and Hours: visits guided €7, in Spanish Englishor de d d tw a an Franciscode Goya, and also it’s the Diego of home LasVelázquez’s Meninas, terpieces by superstar painters, the Prado (PRAH-doh) is vote my thefor greatest collection anywhere paintings of by the European masters. The Prado is the Withthanmore 3,000 canvases, including entire rooms mas of sss Three greatmuseums, all within10-minute a walk one of anoth M s iardsas Juana and Austrians to buried as She’s Joanna). here. The monastery’s chapels are decorated with fine art, Rubens-designed tapestries, and the heirlooms the of wealthy women who joined the nuns wereorder (the required give to a dowry). Because this is still a working Franciscan monastery, tourists can only enter when the nuns vacate the cloister, and the number daily of visitors is limited. The scheduledtours often sell out—come in morning the to buy your ticket, even if you want an afternoon tour(plans are under way sellto advance tickets online; check www.patrimonionacional.es cluster er, in east Madrid. The Prado Europe’sis top collectionof paintings. The Thyssen-Bornemisza sweeps through European art from masters old moderns. to And the Centro de Arte ReinaSofía has a choice selection modern of art, starring Picasso’s famous Guernica few euros by buying the Paseo del Arte all at three museums, thatgood Note year). a the for Prado is free to everyenter evening, the Reina Sofía has free hours every night but closed), it’s and (when the Thyssen-Bornemisza Tuesday is freeon Monday afternoons specifics (see followingin listings). Madrid’smost visit-worthy monastery was founded in the 16th century by Philip Joan sister, II’s Habsburg of (known Span to Descalzas Royal Monastery Royal Descalzas Reales) Descalzas las de (Monasterio and history, consider a final stop in the palace’s upstairs café for a well- for café upstairs palace’s the in stop final a consider history, and deserved rest. Be riod. In addition Spanish to works, you’ll find paintingsItalian by pending 10:00-14:00 Sun & 16:00-18:30, demand, on Tue-Sat 10:00-15:00, closed Mon, last entry hour one before closing, Plaza de las Descalzas Reales near 1, the Ópera Metro stop and just a short walk from Puerta del Sol, tel. 914-548-800. Madrid Delights mus fantastical Bosch’s Hierony including masters, Flemish and 432 RickSteves Spain for student groups. Your bags will be scanned as you enter. you as scanned be Your will groups. bags for student reserved generally is entrance Murillo The line. main the skipping entrance, Jerónimos adjacent at the tickets up their pick can Card Madrid a have or advance in book who Those entrance. lázquez or Ve Jerónimos, Goya, enter at the can you ticket, your have you window.) Once ticket Goya at the ticket up agratis to pick need you times, at free-entry (Even (north) entrance. Goya at the tickets Sol. del Puerta from It’s walk a15-minute museum. the from walk minute 1), afive- (line each 2) Atocha and (line España de Banco are stops museums. Sofía Reina or Thyssen-Bornemisza less-crowded available. is space if possible is purchase advance number). Same-day museodelprado.es only). options: time-saving your long. be are Here can lines buying Ticket- weekends. and evenings on free busy be It can weekdays. on and groups, fewer are there when (13:00-16:00), at lunchtime crowded less closing. before minutes 30 entry last 10:00-19:00, free. 18 always age under 19:00, 17:00- Sun and Mon-Sat 18:00-20:00 free exhibits, temporary for occasional are allowed inside. allowed are umbrellas or large backpacks, food, No drinks, checked. be must bags Larger café. and WCs, bookshop, audioguides, check, bag masterpieces. on 250 up commentary dial and to wander you allowing vestment, in agood is to follow), audioguide tough the my tour (making of paintings locations ever-changing the tour. Given self-guided Cost: Cost: Tours: Tel. www.museodelprado.es 913-302-800, Information: buy must you entrances, several are there While In: Getting There: Getting 392). (see page beforehand Card aMadrid Get 4. at the earlier) (described combo-ticket Arte del a Paseo 3. Buy phone or by ( online advance in time entry an Book 2. cards (credit entrance Goya at the machines ticket 1. the Use Tips: Crowd-Beating Sun Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, Hours: Not allowed. Not Photography: Services: altarpiece. €14, additional (obligatory) fee fee (obligatory) €14, additional The €3.50 audioguide is a helpful supplement to my is a helpful audioguide €3.50 The The Jerónimos entrance has an information desk, desk, information an has entrance Jerónimos The , print out ticket; or tel. 902-107-077, or tel. out ticket; , print areference get It’s at the Paseo del Prado. The nearest Metro Metro nearest The Prado. del It’s Paseo at the Garden of Earthly Earthly of Garden It’s generally It’s generally - www. . - -