Chapter 17 Hairstyling

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– Mary Tyler Moore

• Demonstrate finger waving, pin curls, roller setting, and hair wrapping.

• Demonstrate various blow-dry styling techniques.

• Demonstrate the proper use of thermal irons.

• Demonstrate various thermal iron manipulations and explain how they are used.

• Describe the three types of hair pressing.

• Demonstrate the procedures involved in soft pressing and hard pressing.

• Demonstrate three basic techniques of styling long hair.

• Combs • Brushes • Rollers (short, medium, or long) • Clips (duckbills, double-pronged, single-pronged) • Pins • Clamps

The process of shaping and directing the hair into alternate parallel waves and designs using the fingers, comb, waving lotion, and hairpins or clippies.

• Makes hair pliable and holds it in place • Made of karaya gum • Diluted for use on fine hair • Concentrated for regular or coarse hair • Harmless to hair; no flakes when dry • Avoid excessive amounts of

• Preparing Hair for Wet Styling

• Horizontal Finger Waving

• Procedures will be covered during the practical class.

• Parts of a Curl – Base – Stem – Circle

– No-stem

– Half-stem

– Full-stem

• Begin at open end of a shaping.

• Open-center curls • Closed-center curls

• Forward movement

• Reverse movement

• Upward movement

• Downward movement

• Clockwise

• Counterclockwise

• Rectangular base • Arc base

• Triangular base • Square base

• Ribboning

• Waves

• Carved/sculptured curls

• Ridge curls

• Skip waves

• Cascade curls

• Barrel curls

• Speed

• Increased strength

• Greater creativity

• Base

• Stem

• Curl

• C-shaped curl • Curls

• Wave

• On base • Off base

• Half base • Indentation

• Wet set with rollers

• Procedure will be covered during practical class.

• Hot rollers: used on dry hair only; heated electrically or by steam

• Velcro™ rollers: used on dry hair only for 5 to 10 minutes (not allowed in some states)

• Section hair. • Insert comb. • Press comb to scalp. • Create cushion base. • Repeat for volume. • Smooth hair.

• Hold strand. • Place brush. • Roll brush. • Turn brush. • Blend hair. • Complete styling.

• Hair Wrapping Procedure

• Procedure will be covered during practical class.

• The process of drying and styling damp hair in one operation

• Today’s women desire styles that require less time and effort to maintain.

• Blow-dryer – Handle – Slotted nozzle – Small fan – Heating element – Speed/heat controls – Diffuser

• Classic styling brush • Paddle brush • Grooming brush • Vent brush • Round brush • Teasing brush

• Foam or mousse • Volumizers

• Gels • Pomade or wax

• Liquid gels or texturizers • Silicone shiners

• Straightening gels • Hair spray or finishing spray

• Don’t hold dryer in one place too long.

• Direct air flow.

• Direct hot air away from scalp.

• Move in back-and-forth motion.

• Partially dry before style blow-drying.

• Blow-drying short, layered, curly hair

• Diffusing long, curly hair

• Blow-drying straight or wavy hair for volume

• Blow-drying blunt or long-layered hair into straight style

• Procedures will be covered during practical class.

• Methods of waving and curling straight or pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques

• Four parts – Rod handle – Shell handle – Barrel or rod – Shell

• Range in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches across

• Used to create smooth, straight styles

• Heat iron.

• Clamp heated iron over tissue.

• Note if paper scorches.

• Let cool as needed.

• Wash with soap and water.

• Use fine sandpaper or steel wool.

• Oil joint.

• Size

• Holding comb

• Grasp handles with dominant hand.

• Place three middle fingers on back of lower handle, with little finger in front and thumb in front of upper handle.

• Spiral curls – Part hair. – Insert iron. – Rotate iron. – Hold for 4 to 5 seconds. – Remove iron.

• End curls.

• Volume-base thermal curls – Section off base. – Hold strand at 135-degree angle. – Slide iron over strand. – Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. – Maintain position for 5 seconds. – Roll curl and place on base.

• Full-base thermal curls – Section off base. – Hold strand at 125-degree angle. – Slide iron over strand. – Wrap strand with medium tension. – Maintain position for 5 seconds. – Roll curl and place firmly on base.

• Half-base thermal curls – Section off base. – Hold hair at 90-degree angle. – Slide iron over hair strand. – Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. – Maintain position for 5 seconds. – Roll curl and place it half on base.

• Off-base thermal curls – Section off base. – Hold hair at 70-degree angle. – Slide iron over strand. – Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. – Maintain position for 5 seconds. – Roll curl and place off base.

• Get instructions for use of irons.

• Keep irons clean. • Do not overheat.

• Test temperature.

• Handle carefully. • Place hot irons in safe place to cool.

• Don’t place handles too close to heater.

• Properly balance irons in heater. • Use hard rubber or nonflammable combs. • Do not use metal combs. • Place comb between scalp and iron. • Curl only clean, dry hair. • Avoid fishhooks. • Use gentle setting on chemically-treated hair.

• Soft press

• Medium press

• Hard press

• Wave pattern of hair • Elasticity of hair

• Length of hair • Shade of hair

• Texture of hair • Condition of hair

• Feel of hair • Condition of scalp

• Coarse, overly curly

• Medium

• Fine

• Wiry

• Normal

• Tight (with coarse hair)

• Flexible

• Intake Form

• Cosmetic preparations

• Thorough brushing

• Scalp massage

• Construction • Handles • Teeth • Tempering the comb – Heat comb. – Remove comb. – Coat in oil. – Cool and rinse.

• Heating the comb

• Testing the temperature

• Attachment

• Cleaning the comb

• Cleaning the comb – Wipe clean of loose hair, grease, and debris. – Remove carbon with emery board, steel wool, or fine sandpaper. – Immerse in hot baking-soda solution for one hour. – Rinse and dry thoroughly.

• Makes hair softer • Prepares hair for pressing • Prevents hair from burning • Helps prevent breakage • Conditions hair after pressing • Adds sheen • Helps retain press

• 17-17 Soft Curl Press

• Procedure will be covered during practical class.

• Excessive heat or pressure on hair and scalp

• Too much pressing oil on hair (can attract dirt)

• Perfumed pressing oil near scalp

• Too-frequent hair pressing (can weaken hair)

• Keep comb clean and carbon free. • Avoid overheating pressing comb. • Test comb temperature. • Adjust temperature. • Use comb carefully to avoid burning skin. • Prevent smoking/burning of hair. • Use moderately warm comb at temples and nape.

• Immediate physical damage

• Not immediately evident

• Pressing fine hair

• Pressing short fine hair

• Pressing coarse hair

• Pressing tinted, lightened, or gray hair

• Valuable service – Weddings – Proms – Other evening events

• Determine client desires.

• For wedding, use magazines, suggest trial run, bring headpiece.

• Suggest trial run.

• If bridal, bring headpiece.

• Knot: also called a chignon

• Twist: elegant, sleek look that can go anywhere

• Pleat: traditional updo used for weddings and black-tie events (sometimes called a classic French twist)

• Procedures will be covered during practical class.

• What is the purpose of finger waving?

• What are the three parts of a pin curl?

• Name the four pin curl bases and their uses.

• Describe the three kinds of roller curl bases and the uses of each. • What is the purpose of back combing and back brushing? • How can you avoid burning the client’s scalp during blow- drying? • List and describe various styling products used in blow- drying. • How is volume achieved with thermal curls?

• List at least 10 safety measures for using thermal irons.

• Name and describe three types of hair presses.

• How do you test the pressing comb before beginning a service?

• What are the considerations in a hair and scalp analysis prior to hair pressing?

• Under what circumstances should hair not be pressed?

• List at least four safety measures that must be followed when pressing hair.

You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.