Solera Savvy ALEXANDER JULES BRINGS a UNIQUE VISION to SHERRY by Anthony Dias Blue
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{ cellar view } Solera Savvy ALEXANDER JULES BRINGS A UNIQUE VISION TO SHERRY by Anthony Dias Blue SHERRY IS EXPERIENCING SOME- the whole mass, like sculpture almost.” ALEXANDER JULES OF FEDERICO FERRER, COURTESY PHOTO: thing of a revival these days—very deserv- The quantities bottled from his selected edly so—and in-the-know somms should barrels, according to Russan, are relatively be on the lookout for unique bottlings small and do not affect the solera’s finished to add to their lists. One of the more wines. (Interestingly, Russan also works as a interesting Sherry bottlers to come along specialty coffee importer, another profes- recently is Alex Russan, an adventuresome sion that takes a keen palate that’s eager Los Angeles–based aficionado who dis- to explore.) covered the delights of Sherry a decade “I don’t think Sherry will ever be huge,” ago and decided to invest time and energy admits Russan, “but people really love into bringing some of these unique wines these wines. Places that are already into to the U.S. under the Alexander Jules label Sherry appreciate them as something (Jules is Russan’s middle name). unusual, and places new to Sherry really Russan’s model is somewhat unortho- get excited about them.” He also remarks dox within the traditional framework of on how food-friendly Sherry can be: Alex Russan, founder of Sherry label the Sherry trade. Rather than bottling “Sherries are more versatile on the table Alexander Jules, in a bodega in Jerez. from an entire solera, he selects wines than essentially any other wine—any given from individual barrels within a solera, Sherry will pair wonderfully and easily sonally hand-bottled, labeled and corked labeling them with the number of barrels with a wider range of cuisine than the vast by Russan and exclusive to this retailer. selected from the total number of barrels. majority of individual wines. I think this is Russan also imports table wines from His current Amontillado, for example, is due to a combination of their salinity and other producers around the Spanish main- labeled 6/26—the wine coming from six umami flavors paired with their acidity.” land and islands, concentrating on rare of 26 barrels in the solera. Alexander Jules Sherries are currently grapes and unique areas. These include Naturally, the selections are highly per- available in California and several other fascinating wines from Bodega Dominguez sonal and subjective, a process that Russan states, and Russan also exports to Japan, Cuarta Generación, a producer on Tenerife sees as “accentuating” various aspects where Sherry is something of a cult. Most in the Canary Islands, whose Antología of an entire Sherry solera. “I’m playing recently, Russan has collaborated with DO Tacoronte-Acentejo ($69) is a racy with numerous flavor variables,” he says, California’s K&L Wine Merchants to create yet earthy blend of 40% Negramoll, 30% “though recently I’ve come to think of pair of single barrel old Amontillado bot- Castellano Negra, 20% Baboso Negro and it more as chiseling something out from tlings of around 50 years average age, per- 10% Vedello Blanco. Alexander Jules Fino 22/85, Alexander Jules Manzanilla Alexander Jules Alexander Jules Los Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, Spain 17/71, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, Amontillado 6/26, Jerez- Abandonados, Jerez-Xérès- ($40) Golden amber color; Spain ($40) Golden amber Xérès-Sherry, Spain ($40) Sherry, Spain ($80) Deep soft rancio nose; toasty and color; soft rancio nose; elegant, Burnished gold color; rich, reddish amber; rich, spicy, rich with rancio and bright, dry bright and tangy, dry and juicy; smooth nose; silky and dry rancio nose; tangy, lush and dry style; nutty and smooth. 91 toasted rancio and citrus with with rancio, toast and depth; with intense age and richness; a salty, bright finish. 92 dried orange and brine, from a solera begun in the complex and long. 92 mid-1800s; salty, complex and layered, long and powerful. 95 PHOTO COURTESY OF SPOON AND STABLE { SOMMjournal.com } 49 Somm Journal Feb/Mar_36-71.indd 49 1/21/15 8:38 PM.