Issue No. 170 Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 ORDER DELIVERY TO Serbian media Student Belgrade Jazz YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 takes freedom risks all to Festival [email protected] - th ISSN 1820-8339 1 fight off the patch up celebrates 30 BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 pavement beloved city anniversary

Page 2 Page 4 Page 10 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent New Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser

Belgrade welcomes recession - - - testsNEWS Putin with showpiece Serbia’s resolveNEWS on military parade “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: austerity party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. The Russian leader As Serbia heads

arrived in Belgrade page 10 to attend a military again into extravaganza negative growth, th marking the 70 the challenge is hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. anniversary of to find ways to W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, the liberation of stimulate growth and production

Belgrade. page 5 while cutting Gordana ANDRIĆ public spending. ussian President Vladimir Putin arrived in Belgrade on th conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the October 16 to be the guest Stevan VELJOVIĆ After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party of honour at a lavish military E parade marking the 70th an- fter experiencing modest Rniversary of the liberation of the Serbian growth in 2013, Serbia’s capital from Nazi German occupation. economy is on a verge About 20,000 people gathered to see of another recession, the Friday • June 13 2008 the first military parade in the city since third since 2009. 1985, which began with a gun salute and AThe International Monetary Fund, the Serbian anthem. IMF, predicts that Serbia will have nega- The crowd on onlookers meanwhile tive GDP growth of 0.5 per cent in 2014, THIS ISSUE OF chanted slogans like “Serbia, Russia!”, “We while in 2015 growth of only 1 per cent Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED do not need the [European] Union!” and is expected. on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic “Putin’s a Serb!” On current predictions, last year’s which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T Russian President was the guest of honour at a lavish military parade. Photo by Darko Vojinović/AP spurt of 2.5 per cent of GDP looks like a Continued on page 3 short break between two recessions in 2012 and 2014. Most economists have welcomed the government’s intention to tackle the Serbia counts cost of Albania soaring 8-per-cent budget deficit and public debt with austerity measures. But, for the measures and the bat- tle against recession to succeed, they football match mayhem counsel additional efforts to boost growth and production. UEFA reaction awaited after the Serbia-Albania “Football is supposed to bring peo- portraits of independent Albania’s two The grim economic outlook also ple together and our game should not founding fathers, Ismail Qemali and Isa makes it more challenging for the gov- Euro 2016 qualifier in Belgrade had to be be mixed with politics of any kind. The Boletini. ernment to push for its announced aus- abandoned amid fights on the pitch. scenes in Belgrade were inexcusable,” After Serbian player Stefan Mitrović terity measures. Michel Platini, UEFA President, said. pulled down the banner, a scuffle In an interview for the public broad- Besar LIKMETA, Nektar ZOGJANI, tion”, fireworks being set off, missiles On October 14th, the first football broke out between the two teams, as caster RTS, Prime Minister Aleksandar Gordana ANDRIĆ being launched, a crowd disturbance, match ever held between Albania and Albanian players grabbed the flag from Vučić reiterated his plans to cut pen- a field invasion by supporters and the Serbia in decades ended in chaos and Mitrović. sions and salaries in the public sector ollowing the brawl at the Serbia- use of a laser pointer, the Albanian as- violence in the 41st minute, after a small The scuffle turned into a worse brawl in order to tame the budget deficit. Albania match, UEFA launched sociation has been charged for “refus- drone with a banner embossed with an when a group of Serbian fans invaded On September 18th, pensions and sal- disciplinary cases against both ing to play” and over the display of “an Albanian flag flew over the pitch and the pitch and attacked Albanian play- aries in the public sector over 25,000 the Football Association of Ser- illicit banner.” Serbian fans erupted. ers, prompting British referee Martin dinars [€211] a month will be cut by bia, FSS, and the Football Asso- UEFA’s Control, Ethics and Discipli- The banner flown by the drone Atkinson to suspend the match. The three to 20 per cent, starting in October. Fciation of Albania, FShF, on October 15th. nary Body will discuss the case and de- portrayed a map of “Greater Albania” score was 0:0 at the time. While the Serbian hosts have been cide on potential penalties on October covered with an Albanian flag and the charged over “insufficient organisa- 23rd. Continued on page 15 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Former PRESS REVIEW Continued from page 1 Serbian PM Koštunica quits Serbian media DANAS, October 16th his party OPPOSITION CALLS POLICE MINISTER TO QUIT Belgrade welcomes Putin with Vojislav Koštunica, a for- mer Prime Minister, has While Serbian authorities blame Serbia in brief takes freedom fight left the Democratic Party of foreign officials for the chaos Serbia, DSS, accusing the during the Serbia-Albania football match, the opposition claims showpiece military parade new leadership of having off the pavement Serbia’s security system failed, abandoned its core policy adding that the Police Minister is of Serbian neutrality, which responsible. “Minister Nebojša he said meant that Serbia Stefanović showed he is not should not join the EU under capable of securing risky events any circumstances. “As I and that is why he has to resign consider this an essential immediately,” Borislav Stefanović betrayal of the programme, from Democratic Party said. I have decided to leave the DSS,” Koštunica told news th th KURIR, October 16 agency Beta on October 14 . VUČIĆ: THEY CAN INSULT ME He stepped down as party BUT NOT MY NATION leader following its poor results in the March 2014 According to Serbia’s Prime general elections, when the Minister Aleksandar Vučić, the DSS won only 4.24 per cent incident during the football match of the votes and failed to between Serbia and Albania is pass the threshold for the the hardest political provocation, first time since it was formed an attempt to humiliate Serbian in the Nineties. The newly people and to cause a long-term elected president of DSS is instability in the West Balkans. Sandra Rašković Ivić. “I don’t see that Serbia made a mistake, but I expect an apology,” Serbian Vučić said. president’s th son to become BLIC, October 16 BELGRADE STUDENTS TOOK TO a city mayor THE STREETS Radomir Nikolić, son of Around 800 students protested the Serbian President, will Photos by Marko Drobnjaković/AP against funding cuts on October most likely become the new 15th. They handed over their mayor of Kragujevac, Central requests to the Education Ministry, Serbia’s main city, where where they were told that they the Progressive Party has would receive an answer in a taken control of the local week. “If the Education Ministry Olja Bećković among the protestors in front of the B92 building on October 12th. Photo by Beta government. The party now does not fulfill our requests by holds 44 of the 87 seats in that date, we will put tents along However, the show’s creator and an- Another problem is that Serbian me- the local assembly and has Media union says Nemanjina Street,” said Marko filed a request for a vote of chor, Olja Becković, blamed Prime Minis- dia workers are divided into several as- ter Aleksandar Vučić for the death of her sociations and unions that are polarized. Šović from the Student Front, one confidence in the speaker of battling for press 24-year-old programme. Vučić denied One potential way to empower the of students’ associations that the assembly, Saša Milenić, any involvement. profession is for journalists to introduce organized the protest. and in the mayor, Veroljub freedom ‘on the Following B92’s decision, journal- stricter ethical norms and deal with th Stevanović, on October 13 . ists, activists and politicians joined two those who breach them on their own, DANAS, October 16th “We expect a session at streets’ is fruitless, protests held in front of the TV station’s Jakšić maintained. NO ELECTRICITY CUTS DURING which we will demand the and the fight building. “In this way, we could form a united WINTER dismissal of the mayor within A survey conducted by a promi- front that could resist these pressures and 15 days,” Goran Kovačević, needs to be taken nent German foundation in September which has a stronger voice,” he argued. According to Aleksandar Antić, from the Progressives, told shows journalists feel that there is a high NUNS has already started making ap- Serbia’s Energy Minister, 59 Beta news agency. On Mon- elsewhere. level of censorship and a lack of objectiv- proaches to state institutions. It has filed heating plants are ready to start day October 13th, Nikolić said ity in the media in Serbia. a request to parliament’s Culture and In- the heating season, adding More than 90 per cent of the journalists formation Committee for a public hear- that he was ready to take that there is enough gas for Gordana ANDRIĆ who took part in the survey, published by ing on media freedom, along with a peti- the following winter. “We were over the mayor’s duties. the Konrad Adenauer Stiftung on Mon- tion signed by about 2,000 people. promised that the Russian part ukašin Obradović, head of day, agreed that censorship and self-cen- Union chief Obradović told BIRN that Mladić the Independent Journal- sorship were present in the media. the goal was to open a debate in parlia- will do everything in order for ome 3,000 Serbian soldiers on military and technical cooperation, data sian-led South Stream pipeline project, Serbia to have a stable gas supply denies role ists Association of Serbia, Most journalists, 73 per cent, said that ment in order to better engage the public took part in the parade, protection, customs, railways, energy effi- which the EU opposes, Putin said that in accordance with the long-term in Serb soldiers’ NUNS, says that public the Serbian media did not report objec- with the issue. which saw paratroopers par- ciency and renewable energy sources. one side could not do it alone. protests are an “exhaust- tively, while 95 per cent agreed that media Journalists and media experts say contract we have with Gazprom,” achute in from aircraft over- At a joint press conference with Pu- “It is like love, it can be happy only if mystery Ved form of rebellion”, and that the media reporting was not critical. Ninety per cent that the public has a keen interest in the Antić said. head, while on the ground, tin, Vučić said he had “good news for both sides want to develop such rela- killings now need to fight “with other means”, said that the media was not analytical. media doing its work freely and properly. Sthe Serbian army showcased its troop the people of Serbia” because Putin had tions. We cannot start build a multi-billion starting with a debate in parliament on Boško Jakšić, a journalist and editor, “Large media outlets will soon come POLITIKA, October 16th units, tanks and artillery, while military agreed that Fiat cars produced in Serbia pipeline if our partners are still deciding Former Bosnian Serb military the threat of censorship. believes journalists should start fighting to realise the value of the trust of their PUTIN: SOUTH STREAM TO ships sailed past along the river. could be exported to Russia. Russia had whether it is needed or not,” he said. chief, Ratko Mladić, said Following several public protests back on two fronts. readers. Those who play with that trust, HELP EUROPE Special guests at the parade were a also agreed to allow imports of Serbian “I am convinced that this project will that he was not involved prompted by the cancellation of the flag- They need to open a dialogue with lose either way,” Snježana Milivojević, a Russian aerobatic performance team cheese. benefit everybody, as it reduces transit in the unsolved murders of ship TV political show “Utisak Nedelje”, state institutions and at the same time media analyst, told the weekly NIN. Vladimir Putin, the Russian called the Strizhi (Swifts). “Serbia is on its way to the EU and it is risks,” he continued. “But the issue has two soldiers at a Belgrade many journalists are increasingly per- start to empower journalists to fight cen- She added that while no one disputed President, stated that the South Diplomats, state officials and Ser- not abandoning that path,” Vučić said. become political and that is now dam- barracks in 2004, as their suaded that they cannot safeguard the sorship, self-censorship and breaches of the rights of the owners of private media, Stream gas pipeline project bian celebrities watched events from “Serbia is grateful to Russia that it has aging economically.” freedom of the media “on the street”. professional standards, he said. they also had obligations. the VIP seats, including Michael Dav- respected that and that it has always Addressing energy issues more families have alleged. Mladić should be unblocked as it would Instead, they say, they need to open a “One way is for the media to call on The rights of owners of media outlets enport, the head of the EU delegation protected Serbia’s sovereignty. generally, Putin said that Russia had denied he was hiding in the contribute towards energy dialogue with the state’s own institutions state institutions to start an open dia- are limited by the fact that media outlets in Serbia, the German ambassador to “Serbia has shown it is a friend of Rus- “enough resources for our needs and barracks while on the run at the same time as empowering journal- logue. This is important as… state institu- are not only commercial concerns but stability for the whole of Europe. Belgrade, Heinz Wilhelm, Serbian min- sia’s also at difficult times and not only for the increasing demand of our con- from a war crimes indict- ists to better resist the pressures of cen- tions are the bodies that should enforce also public institutions, she noted. He believes that the pipeline isters Vanja Udovičić and Aleksandar when it is easy to be friends with Russia,” sumers in Europe and Asia. ment at the time that the two sorship and self-censorship. transparency concerning media owner- “For example, the owners of the would bring benefits to both Vulin, former Serbian President Milan he continued, referring to the crisis be- “But there are transit risks and if we soldiers were murdered in Serbian media and international or- ship, which is an important issue,” he said. private university… cannot issue PhD Russia and European consumers. Milutinović, and also film directors tween the West and Russia over Ukraine. see that our Ukrainian partners start- mysterious circumstances. ganisations, such as the OSCE, have long “The government is also the one that degrees to whoever they want. In the The pipeline is supposed to pump Emir Kusturica and Dragan Bjelogrlić. “This government will not impose ing, as they did in 2008, to take our gas He named former Serbian warned about an increase in censorship is creating the atmosphere in which self- media as well there are public-service gas from Russia under the Black Ahead of the parade, Putin visited sanctions against Russia,” Vučić said. without permission from the pipelines, Army chief-of-staff Branko and self-censorship in Serbia. censorship grows,” Jakšić added. obligations.” Sea and through Bulgaria and the city’s Russian cemetery, then met In his reply, Putin said that Serbian we will reduce the amounts of gas, like Krga as a potential key A new wave of discontent among jour- However, he believes part of the re- “Of course, the owners of corporations Serbia towards Hungary, Slovenia Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić and exports to Russia could reach 500 mil- we did in 2008. We hope it will not witness. However Krga also nalists erupted when the national broad- sponsibility lies with the journalists can decide on their business policies, but and Italy. President Tomislav Nikolić, who gave lion dollars a year if the two sides im- come to that.” denied any involvement, say- caster B92 decided to ditch the politics themselves. “Journalists contribute to their rights in journalism are limited. “ his Russian counterpart the country’s plemented their agreements, “which Putin also announced that President show, “Utisak Nedelje”, in September. what kind of relations and attitudes the “The media is not called the fourth pil- highest award, the Medal of the Repub- would be very beneficial for Serbia and Nikolic of Serbia would be visiting Mos- ing that he was not in Serbia B92 said it was pulling the show as part state and media have,” he noted. “Free- lar of democracy… because it brings prof- BIRN has not verified the lic of Serbia of the First Order. would bring new jobs, but would also cow on May 9th, 2015 to attend celebra- on the day the murders were of moves to focus more on entertain- dom has to be conquered and many are its to its owners, but because it performs reports and cannot vouch for Representatives of Serbia and Russia be beneficial for Russia.” tions marking 70 years since the vic- committed. ment and commercial programmes. not ready for that fight,” Jakšić continued. an important social role,” she concluded. their accuracy meanwhile signed a number of agreements Asked about the controversial Rus- tory over Nazi Germany. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE Tax probe Student risks all to hits Belgrade patch up beloved city nightlife Some of Belgrade’s most popular After seven years Ivana NIKOLIĆ clubs have been shuttered for of hitting the have filed over 11,000 com- HE’S GOT A PLAN: flouting tax regulations as the plaints to the Department of streets, reporting Public Transport, mostly re- Together with his four colleagues, authorities try to rein in the illegal ferring to potholes, lighting Vukša established a non-profit cit- problems and issues and public transport izens’ association, called Imamo economy. problems,”“I says Filip Vukša, a 22-year-old plan (We have a plan). With their even being landscape architecture student. own pocket money, the foursome wo popular riverboat clubs, In order to tackle such violations, the He was only 15 when he started noticing fixed a bus stop in Ustanička and Lasta and Freestyler, as well Tax Administration began a probe into attacked for his problems in the capital city, and a determi- renewed the information maps. as city favourites Mladost and the workings of restaurants, bars and nation to do something about them has not TLudost, will remain closed for clubs earlier this year, which resulted pains, Filip Vukša left him since then. In mid-September, however, the next two weeks after the Tax Ad- in the shuttering of another popular “It all started with the holes in the Dorćol- Vukša was charged with a misde- ministration found out that they had Belgrade eatery, Madera. It was closed has become a Ada bicycle lane. It was like a battlefield, not meanour for altering the look of a failed to issue receipts and were em- for a week in mid-August because one to mention the public lighting, which was tram stop and for adding a time ploying workers illegally, and shut them worker was employed without being hero to many not working properly,” Vukša recalls. schedule. down on October 9th. declared for tax. What got on his nerves even more than On October 6th, a well-known Bel- “When we find irregularities that locals - and a the ruined cycle lane were the other cy- He is angry about it. “What we grade restaurant, Cantina de Frida, lead to the legal closure of venues, we clists, who had the same problem but who did was unauthorized, I agree,” he was also closed for two weeks after impose a penalty – they remain closed says. “But we fixed the stop be- thorn in the side just did not want to do anything about it. So, the Tax Administration found an un- seven or 15 days,“ Nataša Kovačević cause no one in charge had done he decided to file his very first complaint on declared employee working there off from the Tax Administration told Tan- of officials. it for who knows how much time,” his own. the books. jug news agency. he adds, noting that they spent He did not expect it to take more than Many Belgrade famous nightclubs have been closed over irregularities. Photo by SHARE Conference/Flickr around €140 on the job. three years to solve – and even then only partially. “Over three years, I filed 150 Filip Vukša is one of Belgrade’s local heroes. to 200 complaints about that cycle lane alone,” he recalls. where trees should have been planted, bro- lines, he discovered, and some bus stops “When I spot something wrong, I write a WWII exhibits “A part of the lane was fixed ken drains, dirty, broken buses, and public were ruined and dirty. note in my cell phone and when I get home, in 2010 and it looks better transport departure timetables that didn’t So, one day, he printed out labels with the I file a complaint,” Vukša explains. now,” Vukša adds. mean anything. He kept filing the com- numbers of nighttime lines, borrowed a lad- “But, sometimes I hit the streets on pur- on display For the 15-year- plaints. der and walked all over the city to stick the pose, and tell myself, Today I am taking care old, it was just the No one likes him in City Hall, he is sure labels on bus stops. of my city!” he adds. start. He kept of that. However, thanks to his complaints, “People were really surprised to see me, a While most people in the city praise him spotting more than 1,500 public lights have been teenager with a ladder, putting up informa- as a hero, some officials don’t much like the in Belgrade new irreg- restored and around 2,600 trees have been tion about bus lines,” Vukša smiles, remem- idea of a lad rapping them over the knuck- ularities: planted. The tree planting is his biggest suc- bering his journey. les for their incomplete or substandard holes cess, Vukša adds with a smile. “It all cost around €70. I paid for it with work. Some get violent. Two years ago, a bus The city’s museums my own money,” Vukša adds, saying that driver struck Vukša because he was trying JOURNEY ACROSS THE CITY thanks to the media, he did not have to com- to take photographs of the broken pane on a are staging various plete the job himself. bus in the suburb of Zemun. Filing 11,000 complaints is not the only “I did maybe 10 per cent of all the bus “You cannot drive public transport with exhibitions to mark reason why Vukša has become famous. In stops, and when the authorities found that broken glass windows, that is unlawful,” the 70th anniversary 2010, the media started reporting about a out from the media, they started doing their Vukša explains, adding that over the years student who was putting up information own job and finished the rest of the stops he has learned many traffic and utility-con- of Belgrade’s about night buses at hundreds of bus stops themselves,” Vukša says. nected bylaws and regulations by heart. In in Belgrade. “It is very funny, the whole situation. the end, the driver who attacked him was liberation during “At first, I was trying to make excuses Some said a student had outsmarted the lo- fired and criminal charges were pressed for the public transportation company. I cal authorities,” he says. “But all I wanted to against him. World War II. thought they had no money,” Vukša recalls. do was to help my city look better,” he adds, He still sometimes receives telephone “But, then I decided to start a journey on modestly. threats for his work, but is not afraid. “I will public transport all over Belgrade,” he con- keep doing what I have been doing for the he Museum of Yugoslav His- meanwhile is hosting an exhibition tinues, “and I concluded that lack of money ATTACKED last seven years,” he says. “Those threats tory has opened an exhibi- called ‘The Liberation of Belgrade – was not the problem - but a lack of willpow- BY ANGRY DRIVER will not prevent me.” All passengers at Belgrade airport will have to go through temperature checks. Photo by LM Otero/AP tion called ‘Belgrade – a Free 70 years later’ which documents the er to do what they are paid to do,” he adds. As we say goodbye, Vukša takes his jack- TCity’, displaying gifts given to armed struggle against the occupying His Belgrade bus tour meant taking 145 Although he is busy with his studies et, “Before I go home, I have some stuff to former Yugoslav President Josip Broz forces with photographs, displays of city lines and passing 2,600 bus stops. these days, he always finds time to look check around the centre,” he says, going off Tito to commemorate the liberation of weapons and maps, and the screening There was no information on nighttime around the city. to do his “duty.” Belgrade Belgrade from Nazi occupation in 1945. of a film on the liberation of the city by These include a sabre which Tito was Dejan Kosanović. It will be open until presented with by Joseph Stalin, a tel- the end of the year. egram of congratulations from Winston At Kalemegdan Park, eyewitness steps up Ebola Churchill, and various German and Al- photographs of the liberation, some of lied forces’ weaponry. The exhibition them from Belgraders’ own private col- runs until October 21st. lections, will also be on show under the precautions The Historical Archives of Belgrade title ‘A Story of Another Life’. CITY GUIDE Available at:

Tourist Organisation of Belgrade lthough no cases of Ebola tential quarantine zone in case of any Knez Mihailova 5, +381 (11) 2635 622 Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 732 Medical teams have have been registered in Ser- outbreak of the virus. ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ Nikola Tesla Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 bia, precautionary meas- Dragan Ilić, head of Serbia’s Institute ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” Belgrade Port, Karađorđeva started checking ures have been imposed of Public Health, said meanwhile that RESTURANT KOVAČ Hotel Moskva A at the airport, Health Minister Zlatibor health workers were being taught how Terazije 20, +381 11 3642 000 modern ethno restaurant FREE PULL OUT MAP OF BELGRDAE passengers’ Lončar has announced. to deal with Ebola-infected patients. FREE SIM CARD Hotel Excelsior “No one should panic. We’re keeping “It is expected that at least 1, 000 Kneza Miloša 5, +381 11 3231 381 APROPO temperatures at Nikola TOP SIGHTSEEING LOCATIONS Bookstore and tearoom this thing under control,“ Lončar told pub- health workers will be trained,“ he told Cara Lazara 10 lic broadcaster RTS on on October 11th . Blic newspaper. PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP Supermarket concept store Višnjićeva 10, +381 11 2910 942 +381 11 2625839 Tesla airport and a He said that health officials were tak- Although no one has been diagnosed GUIDED TOURS THROUGH BELGRADE Hotel Townhouse 27 At the Belgrade Airport city hotel has been ing all the measures recommended with Ebola in the country, 708 people WIDE SELECTION OF CLUBS, HOTELS, Maršala Birjuzova 56, +381 11 2022 900 by the World Health Organisation and have been put under medical surveil- Hudson news odlasci / departures RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND Booking Rooms Hostel Hudson news dolasci / arrivals designated as a potential have already started sourcing protec- lance, according to the Health Ministry. Kralja Petra 30, +381 63 29 39 39 Hudson news čekiranje / check in tive equiment, while the Belgrade hotel Ninety-two of them came from places Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 ENTERTAINMENT VALUE Hudson news transit zona / transit www.restorankovac.com www.bookingrooms.rs quarantine zone. Nacional has been designated as a po- threatened by the virus, it said. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS

ADVERTORIAL Zemun’s Gardoš gets Continued from page 1 new look

The square in front of the historic Gardoš tower, in the Belgrade New recession tests suburb of Zemun, is getting a UN drafts plan makeover from the city. Four Perfect new paths will also be built and flowers will be planted around Serbia’s resolve on the 19th Century Hungarian-built in brief Belgrade tower. The work, which is due to Wellness be finished by November th4 , is to help Srbia austerity aimed at attracting more visitors to one of the city’s best-known monuments. Irena Vojackova- Service Belgrade Waterfront Sollorano, the Serbia is on construction starts in Whether you came on business or for spring UN Coordinator the path to private reasons, don’t forget that you’re Serbian Prime Minister Aleksandar for Serbia, tells economic in the fastest-living city in the region – Vučić has insisted again that reform. relaxation is of the utmost importance. work on the massive waterfront BIRN about the redevelopment project will start There will by April 2014 at the latest. The UN’s programme project involves the construction be economic arin Milosavljevicć, marketing of residential and office buildings, aimed at helping hardship, but it will manager of the WellnessLand the largest shopping mall in the Center and SkyWellness Club Balkans, a hotel, an opera house Serbia with its result in a more will tell you a little more about and a skyscraper along the Sava reasons why those are decidedly reform plans. solid economy that Mthe places which offer absolute maximum when riverbank. Vucic told Pink TV that “no one believes” that Belgrade will have positive it comes to spa services, saunas, massage and fit- Waterfront will be built, but said Gordana ANDRIĆ ness activities in Belgrade. that Mohamed bin Zayed, the outcome in the crown prince of Abu Dhabi, has he UN office in Serbia is gear- About autumn refreshments: promised to cover the costs with ing up to celebrate United years to come.” th For a whole decade in WellnessLand, and more than five years in Sky- his own money. Nations Day on October 24 at Mikser House in Belgrade. Wellness, we’re in love with a healthy life. During those years we learnt that the essence of a good service shouldn’t be changed, but that occasional Treats for kids at The day is celebrated Taround the world to mark the anniver- refreshments are always a good thing. With that in mind, this season we in- children’s fest Irena Vojackova- sary of implementation in 1945 of the UN troduce new working hours – for the early birds, we’re open from 6:30 AM, Charter, the founding document of the Sollorano, which has garnered great approval from all our members, but also from From October 17th to 19th, Vladimir Vučkovic says the only way out of the crisis is to work on both fronts – to cut expenditure while still creating conditions for growth. Photo by Beta world organisation. our intermittent clients. Also, because of many guests from abroad, who Belgrade Fair will host one of the Irena Vojackova-Sollorano, the UN the UN Coordinator spend several continual days or weeks in Belgrade on account of business, biggest children’s festivals in the Resident Coordinator for Serbia, says this for Serbia he cuts will be progressive. He argues that the soaring deficit is WAITING we devised a new kind of monthly fee, as well as a day pass. That way, we region. Around 100 exhibitors will year’s Belgrade celebration will focus on Pensions of between €211 now most responsible for damaging eco- FOR THE IMF are more available than ever, and our service is still as exclusive as ever. present products for children: culture and development. and €256 will be reduced by nomic activity: “Austerity was not the sweets, food, clothes, shoes and The topics were selected as Serbia only 3.1 per cent, while those main cause for lack of economic activity”. The success of the government’s aus- About a unique concept of WellnessLand Center: baby equipment, as well as books, was one of five countries in the world in “Good governance is one of the is- higher than €844 will be cut “We witnessed that even when the defi- terity measures and structural reforms Conceptually, WellnessLand is very close to Western clubs with exclu- films, magazines and music. Kids which young people marked “culture” as sues that we place across everything we byT 15 to 16 per cent. cit was growing and spending was higher, will depend to a large extent on the opin- sive membership. Our members appreciate their own privacy, as well as will have the chance to enjoy one of the key issues that needed improv- do and this is also very much a cultural Public sector salaries over €211 will be the economy was slowing down, as mon- ion of the IMF. respecting the privacy of other people. Whether you’re here because of an entertainment programme ing, after more common answers such as thing,” she says. reduced by 10 to 10.5 per cent, while those ey was not being spent on growth.” Prime Minister Vučić on October 12th exercise, spa zone, pool, body treatment or some combination of the of- which includes various sporting unemployment, the rule of law and cor- “We need a cultural shift alongside higher than €844 will be reduced by 20 “With the necessary reforms in place, said he expected Serbia to conclude a fered services, alone or in company, time spent in WellnessLand will relax activities and creative workshops ruption. new legislation. This is where we will per cent. the drop in GDP would be temporary and new arrangement with the IMF by the you and prepare you for your various business and private challenges. Our and to meet firefighters, police “This means ‘culture’ in a broader help, on one hand in parliament, but then Vučić warned that these savings are small, ranging from 0.5 to 1 per cent,” he end of the year, adding their conditions permanent members come mostly by way of reccomendation, and we ob- special forces and men in knights’ sense, culture in the sense of how we in- also by working with all the ministries, to only a part of a wider package that will be asserted. are not easy, but are honest, seeking re- viously have more than a good reputation among foreign guests of our city, armour. teract with each other,” she says. implement things in a transparent way,” adopted. This will also include measures Vladimir Vučković, editor of MAT and forms in all spheres. because they keep coming back every time they return to Belgrade. “Among people’s frequent answers, Vojackova-Sollorano adds. to tackle the informal “grey” economy, re- a member of Serbia’s Fiscal Council, an in- Milojko Arsić argues that to conclude Serbian Post Office along with culture, was the culture of Along with assisting reform of the pub- duce subsidies to public enterprises and dependent body, says the only way out of the arrangement, the government needs About the excellent marks liberation of taking responsibility, which was rather lic administration, the UN will also con- improve the investment climate. the crisis is to work on both fronts – to cut a credible savings plan not only for 2015, atmosphere in SkyWellness Club: Belgrade unique. It was interesting to see young tribute to Serbia’s drive to boost its strug- The government calculates that Serbia expenditure while creating conditions for but also for 2016 and 2017, including lay- In SkyWellness Club, we have a luxury of the best view in town. If you people wanting to change the ways gling economy. should be able to make annual savings of growth. offs in the public sector and cuts to subsi- have ever heard those incredible stories about a night life on Belgrade’s riv- Irena Vojackova-Sollorano, the UN Coordinator for Serbia. Marking the 70th anniversary things are done, and take responsibility,” “Serbia is on the path to economic re- €700 million - with cuts to pensions and “It is a false dilemma to decide whether dies for state enterprises. ers, the early-morning or day exercise with a perfect view on those same of the liberation of Belgrade Vojackova-Sollorano adds. Vojackova-Sollorano explains that the “All these pillars that we are looking at form. There will be economic hardship, spending contributing to around half of you will support savings or growth,” he “We need more public spending cuts rivers will render you speechless! SkyWellness Club is young and full of during World War II, the Serbian This year’s UN anniversary will be plan covers human rights, good govern- have parallels in the EU accession pro- but it will result in a more solid economy that sum. told BIRN. in the first year, while assuring that these positive energy, and a favorite city spot when it comes to best quality exer- Post Office will issue a special marked less formally with debates and ance, the rule of law, social and human cess, so we will be working closely with that will have positive outcome in the “We need austerity measures to sur- savings will be permanent,” he said. cise. Sauna, various kinds of body treatments, and services of professional collection of postage stamps on talks involving government officials, dip- resources development, economic de- the EU, as well as with global donors, on years to come,” she says. FALSE vive and to gain credibility among the He added that no state sector salaries trainers are also available to our guests. October 17th. The stamps show lomats, artists and other guests. velopment, the environment, climate their implementation.” “We support that and we do so in a DILEMMA creditors,” Vučković said, recalling that or pensions should go up again until the The celebration comes as the UN works change and sustainable energy, culture Vojackova-Sollorano adds that the UN global context. We want to be there with the Fiscal Council had advocated even economy stars to grow, and even then, About an incredible equipment: pictures of occupied Belgrade, on drafting a new five-year development and development. does not aim only to help Serbia with its Serbia to help it position itself globally,” Economists deem the current situa- higher cuts to pensions and state sector any rises should be at a lower rate than On both locations, we offer our guests exclusively the equipment made such as bombed bridges, the plan for Serbia, the United Nations Devel- The UN headquarters is due to adopt EU integration, but also with general de- she adds. tion worrying, as several key indicators salaries, of around €800 million. growth in GDP. by renowned Italian manufacturer Technogym. We are aware that multi- royal palace and streets of opment Assistance Framework, UNDAF. the plan and sign an agreement to work velopment issues. The scope of the UN’s help will, how- of economic activity in the last months, In his opinion, preserving aggregate de- Arsić says enhancing public invest- tasking and clever utilization of every single moment are essential to mod- Belgrade during the war. The The priorities set by UNDAF will be at on it with Serbia next spring. “EU accession looks at the require- ever, depend on two key issues. One is including industrial production, reveal mand and sustaining growth will depend ment will be acceptable to the IMF pro- ern living, and that’s the reason why you can, while excercising, check your collection also includes postmarks the centre of the UN’s work in Serbia from Vojackova-Sollorano says that UN as- ments to join the EU; we are looking into how realistic the set goals are. The other downward trends. mostly on the ability of the government vided that greater savings are made on email, talk via Skype, leave your status on social networking services, or celebrating modern Belgrade and 2016 to 2020 and set guidelines for its re- sistance will also help Serbia with its EU broader development of the country,” she is how much support the donors offer. According to MAT, a monthly econom- to improve the business climate and in- current spending, such as pensions, sala- just watch an episode of your favorite sitcom. Design, functionality and showcasing some of the most lationship to the Serbian government. membership plans. explains. “The challenge will be to make it real- ic journal, Serbia’s total industrial pro- vest in infrastructure, especially in trans- ries and subsidies to public enterprises. high quality of Tecnogym equipment are unmatched. Technogym is our popular Belgrade landmarks, such The UN is drafting the plan together “EU accession is the overarching goal One of the key issues for the implemen- istic, because we have many dreams that duction in August was 13.1 per cent lower port and energy. If the government adopts a credible first choice, because we do not compromise when it comes to the quality as parliament building, St Sava with Serbian government, civil society for the government, and these two pro- tation of the UN goals is good governance we wish to fulfill,” Vojackova-Sollorano compared to last year. “The level of public investment in Ser- package of austerity measures, there is of our services. Temple and the Victor monument. groups and donors. cesses are complementary,” she says. and the rule of law. says. In August, Fiat, Serbia’s biggest export- bia is currently below 3 per cent of GDP, no reason why the IMF should not sup- er, produced only 20 per cent of its last while 5 per cent is considered the mini- port increasing the share of public invest- year’s monthly level. This contributed to mum,” he added. ment in GDP, now below 3 per cent of GPD, a decline in overall exports, which were Nikola Pavičić, honorary president of he and other experts say. five per cent lower in August compared to Tarkett Sintelon, a company from Bačka Following their autumn meeting in Oc- the same month last year. Palanka, agreed with council that the ef- tober in Washington, the IMF and World Stojan Stamenković, from MAT, says fects of the announced savings will be Bank said increased growth was the pri- Serbia is already in recession. “The ques- modest. This is because fewer companies ority - to which investment in infrastruc- n the wall of an apartment block at 31 Karađorđeva tion is whether it is just incidental, acci- will be a position to pay salaries and taxes ture could contribute significantly. Street in the Savamala quarter is a mural named ‘La dental, or it is really an unpleasant ten- and thus fill the budget. Vučković says the recommendations Santa de Beograd’ (‘The Saint of Belgrade’), painted dency,” he said. “Budget revenues are decreasing faster for increased growth should be applied to in 2008 by Giom Olbi, alias REMED. The 20-metre- “If the dynamics of economic activity then the savings can bring any results,” he Serbia as well. high mural represents Sveta Petka, also known as are not improved, there will be no fiscal noted. “When we look at the development of Saint Parascheva of the Balkans. The entire artwork consolidation,” he warned on October 7th. He believes the solution is increased infrastructure in Serbia, the availability of isO black and white, except two gold details: an egg and the sun, both While experts predict GDP in 2014 to production, which requires lower interest funding, problems with low demand, de- representing life. ‘La Santa’ has many hands and uses them to protect fall by 1 per cent, Milojko Arsić, Econom- rates, a smaller tax burden and a more re- flationary trends and the commitment to but also to destroy the city, Olbi has said. ics professor at Belgrade University, in- alistic exchange rate for the currency. reduce current expenditures, we realise sists that negative trends should not de- “This is the only way out, but I don’t see that Serbia ticks many of these boxes, so Hidden Belgrade flect the government from its pursuit of the concept about how to achieve that,” these recommendations should be ap- austerity measures. Pavičić said. plied to us,” he concluded. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 9 REGION OUT AND ABOUT Serbian opposition does well in Bosnia elections Results of the th he Organization for October 12 Security and Coopera- elections in tion in Europe, OSCE, Tsaid that while the elec- Bosnia have been tions were held in a competitive environment, the ethnic divide a disappointment was a key factor. for Bosnian Serb As the OSCE noted, there was a lack of a shared vision of the leader Milorad country’s future and of co-opera- tion among the three constituent Dodik - whose peoples. This continued to hinder the reforms needed to fully en- party could sure democratic elections. lose the Serbian “The elections demonstrate that seat on the state Bosnia and Herzegovina has a legal framework sufficient for presidency conducting democratic elec- tions,” said Roberto Battelli, the alongside control Special Coordinator and leader of the OSCE observer mission. of the Serbian “However, the lack of political will to move beyond the [1995] entity assembly. Dayton agreement prevents the Following the elections, the party of Bosnian Serb leader Milorad Dodik could lose rule in Republika Srpska. Photo by Amel Emric/AP country from moving away from the current inter-ethnic divides The busy downtown of Zagreb . Photo by Mario Fajt/Flickr Elvira M. JUKIĆ If the final count shows that Ivanić lition with other opposition parties, it challenger Martin Raguz of HDZ 1990. and towards real progress for the won the post, he will replace Nebojša could regain power for the first time in The Central Electoral Commission, country.” pponents of the Bos- Radmanović, who comes from the eight years. CIK, said that the elections passed off nian Serb strongman, ranks of the SNSD. In the elections elsewhere in the peacefully and without major inci- “There is an ever-growing mistrust Milorad Dodik, were Dodik meanwhile looked likely to country, the Bosniak Party of Demo- dents. in the functioning of democratic hoping to score a major remain the President of Republika cratic Action, SDA, did well in the The elections were held on several institutions, which endangers victory. Srpska, one of Bosnia’s two entities. country’s other entity, the Federation levels as people voted on the tripartite stability and compromises the Zagreb’s hidden OInitial results in the race for the Ser- In that race, he appeared to have of Bosnia and Herzegovina. state presidency, the state parliament, future of the country,” said Tiny bian seat of the Bosnian Presidency won about 11,000 votes more than his The SDA candidate, Bakir the assemblies of Bosnia’s two enti- Kox, head of the delegation from have put Mladen Ivanić, of the oppo- opponent, Ognjen Tadić, from the Ser- Izetbegović, won the election for the ties, ten cantonal assemblies within the Parliamentary Assembly of sition Party of Democratic Progress, bian Democratic Party, SDS. Bosniak seat on the Bosnian presi- the Federation of Bosnia and Herze- the Council of Europe. PDP, just ahead of Željka Cvijanović, However, even if Dodik keeps the dency. govina and the president of Republika the candidate of Dodik’s Alliance of President’s post in the mainly Ser- After winning 28 per cent of the Srpska. charms start to emerge Independent Social Democrats, SNSD. bian entity, preliminary results from votes, the SDA also came first in the A total of 3,278,908 voters were The opinion of the international Based on about 90 per cent of count- the general elections suggest that his elections to the Federation assembly. eligible to vote but turnout was only monitors of the elections from the ed ballots, Ivanić won 48.31 per cent of SNSD party might lose control of the Next to Izetbegović, the second, 54.14 per cent, two per cent less than OSCE and the Parliamentary As- ships - restaurants and cafés and the tionship broke, and centipede never - a white castle on a red background- On the slopes of Mt Medvednica, votes and Cvijanović, 48.14 per cent. entity assembly. Croat member of Bosnian presidency at the 2010 polls. sembly of the Council of Europe, Although visitors mysterious old city, Zagreb makes a become fully legless,” the caption and those of the Triune Kingdom of Croatia’s best skiers, Janica and Ivica “I will surely be the new Serbian In the Republika Srpska election, is Dragan Čović from the Croatian Competing were 50 political par- PACE, about the media situation fine city-break destination next to the centipede explains. Croatia, Slavonia and Dalmatia. Kostelić, took their first skiing steps. member of the Bosnian presidency. the SNSD came first with about 33 per Democratic Union, HDZBiH. The ties, 24 coalitions and 24 independent was that the media environment to Croatia tend to The most valuable part of the Sport is an important part of life in the What I can promise is that I will take cent of the votes. The SDS came sec- Central Electoral Commission an- candidates. A total of 7,748 candidates was segmented along ethnic lines. BROKEN HISTORY church in terms of architecture is the city, which is home to the Cibona basket- care of Republika Srpska,” Ivanić said ond with about 27 per cent. nounced that he had taken around were standing, of whom 42 per cent ignore the capital HEARTS ON DISPLAY ALL AROUND south portal, which it is believed the ball club and Dinamo football club. late on October 13th. However, if the SDS can form a coa- 20,000 more votes than his nearest were women. Parler family from Prague sculpted at Apart from watching matches, and head for the A woman’s black high-heeled shoe A city with a long and tumultuous the end of the 14th century. sports fans can visit the Museum of that has lost its other half, a turquoise history, it celebrated its 900th birth- Another important, famous reli- Dražen Petrović, a famous basketball seaside, Zagreb children’s toy car on pedals, a ceram- day in 1994. Zagreb University was gious building in the city is the Catho- player who played for Cibona, New ic vase, a box of microwave popcorn founded in the 17th century, and is one lic cathedral, the tallest building in Jersey and Utah in the US before he makes a great city and a huge frying pan. All are stand- of the oldest in the region. Zagreb, which dates back to 1093. died in 1993. ing in a line, and all point to one thing: Today, the capital of Croatia boasts With its Gothic arches and spires, “Zagreb is a city full of potential, break destination. lost love. a rich cultural life, with more than gargoyles and stained glass, the build- where people can fulfil their ambi- The items are all on display at the 20 theatres, three concert halls and ing is of great architectural value. In tions and at the same time it’s a com- Museum of Broken Relationships, a around 60 museums and art galler- front, a gilded statue of the Virgin sur- fortable place to live”, 23-year-old museum that won the Kenneth Hud- ies. veys the city from the top of a column. Kristian Dosen observed. Modern city hotel in a perfect location Slobodan MARIČIĆ son reward for the most innovative From the Museum of Broken Re- “It’s big enough to find your space museum in Europe. lationships many of the city’s other ENJOYING LIFE and small enough so you can reach hen tourists On the opposite side of the wall in landmarks are within walking dis- everyone you need,” Dosen added. think about the museum, visitors can see a huge tance. Down the cobbled road you When they don’t work, people in “Zagreb is full of history and beau- Croatia, the stuffed monkey with weight issues, can see the Museum of Naïve Art, city Zagreb like to relax over a cup of cof- tiful places; you can’t complain that first thingnext to some math problems on paper. hall, the parliament building and the fee. The central Ban Jelačić and Flow- anything is missing here.” 21000 Novi Sad, Serbia that crosses However, the most popular item on government headquarters. er squares are popular locations for Some of the most popular sou- Ilije Ognjanovica 24 most of their display here is cripple velvet five col- The oldest part of Zagreb is the up- such mid-morning breaks. venirs in the city are Croatian in- mindsW is the sun-kissed Adriatic our centipede. per town area, known as Grič. Zagreb Located some 20 minutes away ventions. One is the ballpoint pen, Phone: +381(0)21/66-15-555 coast. “I had huge, really huge love – a locals tell numerous legends about from the city centre, Lake Jarun is a invented by Slavoljub Penkala from However, although it lies inland, long-distance relationship, Sarajevo- this place and the mysterious events popular place for sports and leisure. Zagreb more than 80 years ago. An- Fax : +381(0)21/422-652 the country’s capital is increasingly Zagreb. It lasted 20 months. Of course, that happened here. You can hear Here you can row, paddle, sail, surf, other is the cravat, a fashion acces- emerging as a tourist destination in we dreamed of living together, and in them in English if you take a tour, swim, jog, bike, roller-skate or skate- sory that is a corruption of the word [email protected] its own right. the name of that I bought a huge vel- “The Secrets of Grič”. board. “Croat”. [email protected] With a population of under a million, vet centipede. Nestled between the government Those who enjoy winter sports According to legend, it was named [email protected] charming Austro-Hungarian architec- “Each time we met, we ripped a leg and parliament in the same upper might like to know that Zagreb is one after Croatian horsemen who fought in ture, numerous parks, a lake, dozens off. We would live together as soon as town area is the famous church of St of the few cities in Europe with its the Thirty Years War in the 17th century, www.hotelputnik.rs of museums - including the interesting all the legs were gone. But, as usually Mark. The colourful tiles on the roof own ski resort - only about 20 min- and who wore characteristic scarves sounding Museum of Broken Relation- happens with great loves, the rela- represent the coat of arms of Zagreb utes away by car. tied around their necks into battle. European Researchers’ Night kicks off on September 26th. Photo by Jessica Lucia/Flickr

10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 11 ARTS HEALTH AND FAMILY

Book fair Exhibitions promotes literary and Events culture

Belgrade Jazz th FRIDAY OCTOBER 17 Fashionistas Held this year under the slogan ’It’s reading time!’, 23rd International Festival of Ethnological th Film – opening, Ethnographic Museum,

the 59 International Arts in brief Studentski Trg 13, 7pm Belgrade Book Fair aims to Festival celebrates th gear up for a week promote new publications SATURDAY OCTOBER 18 and authors form Serbia and th Exhibition: Zlatko Cvetković, The Museum of around the world. Over 450 Applied Arts, Vuka Karadžića 18, 1pm exhibitors will showcase 30 anniversary MONDAY OCTOBER 20th their wares from October of glamour 26th to November 2nd at the Exhibition: Nikolina Kostur, Grad Cultural Beogradski Sajam, where Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 8pm visitors can browse, buy, WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 22nd Top designers from Serbia and and attend lectures and Exhibition: World Cities Day and the WXPO th workshops held by authors. 2010 Shanghai Cina, Studentski Grad Cultural the region are heading for the 36 There will be a special stand Centre, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 179, 7pm dedicated to books from THURSDAY OCTOBER 23rd Perwoll Fashion Week, which takes China, the ’guest of honour’ nd st country at this year’s fair, as Exhibition: Jacques Tardis – F***ing War!, French Cultural Centre, Knez Mihajlova 31, 7pm place from 22 to 31 October at well as discussions and ex- hibitions focusing on Serbian SUNDAY OCTOBER 26th locations across the city. writer Vuk Karadžić. 59th Belgrade Book Fair, Belgrade Fair, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 14, 6pm Placido elgrade’s most popular The association, which put on its first which aims to present fashion as art and th Domingo returns to TUESDAY OCTOBER 28 fashion event gets underway exhibition this March, gathers around 70 show that fashion can contribute to the nd Belgrade Exhibition: Ratko Lalić, Haos Gallery, on October 22 with a show prominent fashion designers, includ- world and times we live in. Dositejeva 3, 8pm by Ana Ljubinković, one of ing Ines Atelier, Aleksandra Lalić, Ana This year’s special guest at Fashion One of the most famous country’s leading designers, Grebec, Igor Todorović, Irena Grahovac Week is Sweden, so the public will Bmarking a decade of her work. and many others. have a good opportunity to see the and popular opera singers Theatre in the world, Spanish tenor Ljubinković’s designs hit the runways Like every year, Belgrade Fashion work of some young Swedish design- for the first time in 2004 and she has Week will also showcase the latest collec- ers, as well as an exhibition of fashion Placido Domingo, will hold FRIDAY OCTOBER 17th his latest concert in the Ser- been taking part in Belgrade Fashion tions of some of the region’s top fashion photography, “Different Distances Week ever since. companies. These include Croatia’s – Between Fashion Photography and bian capital at the Belgrade Enigma Variations (E. E. Schmitt), The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 8.30pm She will be presenting her new col- Marina Design, Slovenia’s Young & Squat, Art”, on show at the Parobrod Cultural Arena on December 8th. Best SATURDAY OCTOBER 18th lection at Fashion Week along with her Macedonia’s Lidija Georgieva and Ser- Centre. known for being part of the sister, Iva, also a designer and a newcom- bia’s George Styler. Belgrade Fashion Week will be Jazz icon Charles Lloyd will close Belgrade Jazz Festival. Photo by Bruno Bollaert/Flickr Three Tenors with Luciano August: Ossage County (Letts), Atelje 212, er to the city’s most prestigious fashion When it comes to internationally held in various venues across the Svetogorska 21, 8pm Pavarotti and Jose Carreras, event. While Ana’s collection is focused known brands, Belgraders will have city, including Belexpocentre, where he is also a noted conduc- The trio of Panamanian pianist Dani- Popular local keyboardist Vasil MONDAY OCTOBER 20th on jumpsuits, Iva will be presenting her a chance to see the autumn/winter the majority of shows will be held, tor. Tickets for the show, Veteran lo Perez, Brian Blade on drums and the Hadžimanov will be performing with shoe collection. collections of brands such as UGG of the Parobrod Cultural Centre, the The Lady of the Camellias (Dumas, fils), The which could be the classical incomparable John Patitucci on bass his band, alongside a special guest, sax- National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7.30pm Fashion lovers will have the chance Australia, Diesel, Levis, Replay, Guess and Metropol Palace Hotel, the Ethno- concert of the year, are on saxophone star are likely to offer some interesting and ophonist David Binney from New York. to see the latest work of other top local Scotch&Soda. graphic Museum and Štab Gallery. st sale now and cost between Charles Lloyd unique takes on classic Shorter tunes The show will also feature jazz players TUESDAY OCTOBER 21 designers, including the show of the According to the organisers, one of Fashion Week takes place twice a year, €35 and €95. during their set. from Germany, Denmark, Italy and Por- Othello (Shakespeare), Yugoslav Drama designers’ association, the BFW Design the most interesting programmes will be in April and in October, and is one of the features in a line- The festival is known for blending tugal. Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Collective. “Modne vinjete”, or “Fashion Vignettes”, most visited fashion events in Serbia. traditional and cutting-edge sounds, Closing the festival will be jazz icon Swedish THURSDAY OCTOBER 23rd fashion, photos up that ranges and on the same night, Nils Petter Charles Lloyd, who is considered to be and film on show Molvaer, a Norwegian trumpeter who one of the most influential saxophone The Government Inspector (Gogol), Atelje 212, from local to combines jazz with electronics, will be players of all time, performing a set of Svetogorska 21, 8pm Swedish Culture Month in international, doing a joint performance with Berlin compositions with his quartet called FRIDAY OCTOBER 24th Belgrade this year focuses techno innovator Moritz von Oswald. the ‘Wild Man Dance Suite’. Rabbit Hole (Abaire), Belgrade Drama Theatre, on fashion, photography and melodic to This year the festival will showcase The Belgrade Jazz Festival is one of Mileševska 64, 8:30pm film. Among the events is a variety of talented pianists, including the most important musical festivals th an exhibition at the Paro- experimental. Sylvie Courvoisier from Switzerland and in Serbia and the former Yugoslavia. SATURDAY OCTOBER 25 Michel Camilo from the Dominican Re- In its early years, it served as a portal brod gallery until October Play It Again, Sam (Allen), Belgrade Drama 29th examining the con- public, who excels not only in jazz piano, to the West, bringing in jazz artists Theatre, Mileševska 64, 8pm David GALIĆ but also Latin styles and classical piano. from the US who didn’t often play in nections bewteen fashion SUNDAY OCTOBER 26th Camilo is also known for his passion- the region. photography and art. There his year’s festival, held ate live performances and looks more This year’s festival is held at various Henry VI (Shakespeare), The National will also be presentations from October 24th and like a rock star than a typical jazz player venues around the capital including Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm about Swedish crime books th 27 under the banner ‘All when he’s at his piano. Dom Omladine, Kolarac Endowment, TUESDAY OCTOBER 28th and ’Nordic noir’ televi- Stars of Jazz’, opens with The third night of the festival will be Grand Casino and Dom Sindikata. A full sion series, fashion shows the Children of Light Trio dedicated to the contemporary Euro- set of tickets for all the performances Mother Courage and Her Children (Brecht), The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm by Swedish designers and T– a group of three musicians who devel- pean jazz scene, and the audience will cost about €40, while individual tickets screenings of documentaries oped their musical chemistry playing have a chance to get acquainted with for concerts cost between €5 and €15 WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 29th and feature films from the with Wayne Shorter’s band for the past some of Serbia’s best jazz groups and and can be purchased at the Dom Om- The Glass Menagerie (Williams), The National Scandinavian country. 14 years. soloists. ladine box office. Theatre, Francuska 1, 8:30pm

55th October Salon

19/09 – 02/11/2014 www.oktobarskisalon.org

Disappearing things

www.oktobarskisalon.org Belgrade City Museum, Resavska Street 40b 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 13 WHAT’S ON ON THE SPOT

ADVERTORIAL All About Girls – DJ Marko, Mr Stefan • Pop and Rock, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 29th Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm 10pm ‘Viennese • Petar Bošković and BG Walter Bend, • Džoni i Workeri, Ona Moja, Vojvode • Disco House, Mr Stefan Braun, CLUBBING Tramvaj Pub, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm Šupljikca 31a, 10pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm Blood’ on • Cowgirls Night – DJ Cholack, Coyote • Unplugged Duo, Red Shoes, Ada • Party Time, KST, BulevarKralja AND LIVE MUSIC Bar, Višnjićeva 9, 10pm Ciganlija, 10pm Aleksandra 73, 10pm Regain • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska, 28, 9pm • Karaoke, Witch Bar, Kumanovska 14, show at • Black Acoustic (pop/rock and soul), MONDAY OCTOBER 27th 10pm Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm • Ti, Truss!, The John, Grad Cultural Madlenianum th FRIDAY OCTOBER 17 th • Marko Žujović, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, • 30th Belgrade Jazz Festival: Charles Centre, BraćeKrsmanović 4, 9pm the Fuller SUNDAY OCTOBER 19 Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm Lloyd Quartet: Wild Man Dance Suite • Duo Rouz, Red Shoes Café, Ada he new season in Bel- • Steve Bug, Magacin Depo, Travnička • Full House Band and DJ Marko, Mr (7:30pm), Michel Camilo Trio (9:30pm), Ciganlija, 10pm grade’s Madlenianum rd 3, 11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm THURSDAY OCTOBER 23 Dom Omladine, Dečanska 22 • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska, 28, 9pm Opera and Theatre • Eddie Richards, Archie Hamilton, • Local popo/rock, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova Face of • Full House Night Molokini, Pariska 1, • Black Acoustic (pop/rock and soul), kicked off on October Lale, Marko Vuković, PetarCvetković, Tth 11pm • DJ Mirko&Meex, Industrija Bar, 2, 10pm Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm 5 with the premiere of Johann Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Stefana • Papooz, Grad Cultural Centre, Karadjordjeva 23, 11:00pm • Tamburaši, Tri šešira, Skadarska 28, • Marko Žujović, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, Strauss II’s operetta ‘Viennese 115, 11pm BraćeKrsmanović 4, 9pm • RnB and Hip Hop Night, Mr Stefan 9pm Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm Blood’ - the first time that the , Youth • Kid Kimi, Vuk Smiljanić, Andreja Z Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11:00pm , Witch Bar, Pariska 13, • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, • Destiny Night piece has been performed Svemirska Kafana boat on Sava, 11pm • Brit’n’Bass Special, KST, BulevarKralja 10pm th 9pm THURSDAY OCTOBER 30 in Serbia. The founder of the • DJ Filips Blue, Industrija Bar, • Dušica Novaković and friends Aleksandra 73, 10:00pm As we age, our faces progressively th theatre, Madlena Cepter, as well Karađorđeva 23, 11pm (cabaret), Tramvaj Pub, Ruzveltova 2, • Flashback 80s, Witch Bar, TUESDAY OCTOBER 28 • RnB and Hip Hop Night, Mr Stefan as actress Lena Bogdanović, • House Party, Mr Stefan Braun, 10pm Kumanovska 14, 10:00pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm lose the fullness they once had. Nemanjina 4, 11pm • RnB Sunday, Club Cinema, Gračanička • Muzički voz, Red Shoes Café, Ada • Nineties Night,Mr Stefan Braun, • Gothic Night, KST, BulevarKralja television journalist Tanja • Mash Up or Shut Up, Povetarac boat 18, 10pm Ciganlija, 10pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm Aleksandra 73, 10pm Peternek Aleksić and director However, with an injectable gel, the on Sava river, 11pm • Aćim i violina, Kafana Jazbina, • Dejan Krstović Meda and Kristina • Talbot, Grad Cultural Centre, • Flashback 80s, Witch Bar, Zdravko Šotra were among • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 89, 9pm Kuzmanovska, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, BraćeKrsmanović 4, 10pm Kumanovska 14, 10pm those who attended the pre- effects of aging can be easily and Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm • Friends’ night with Nina Đumić and Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm • Soul Night, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, • Dejan Krstović Meda and Kristina miere. • Grant Hart, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Aleksandra Živanović, Kafana na 10pm Kuzmanovska, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, painlessly countered. th Krsmanović 4, 9pm Balkanu, Prizrenska 2, 22:30pm FRIDAY OCTOBER 24 • Ninties Night, Mr Stefan Braun, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm • Kristali, Dom Omladine, Dečanska Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Meraklije, Kafana Hodač, Dimitrija • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm REGAIN A 22, 9pm • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, BulevarKralja Tucovića 1, 7pm HEART-SHAPED FACE • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, • Karaoke and Deadline Band, Čorba Aleksandra 73, 10pm 9pm Kafe, Braće Krsmanović 3, 9pm • Mash Up or Shut Up, Povetarac boat Belgrade Replacing lost volume is the se- • Miloš Zeka Petrović, Witch Bar, • Full House Night – DJ, Molokini, on Sava river, 11pm cret to restoring a youthful face, by Pariska 13, 10pm Pariska 1a, 11pm • Angels Night, Angels, Pariska 1, 11pm premieres lifting the skin in the upper cheeks. • All That Bass, Grad Cultural Centre, • Džoni i Workeri, Ona Moja, Vojvode • 30th Belgrade Jazz Festival: Max Kochetov KOLARAC With ageing, gravity and loss of Braće Krsmanović 4, 23:59pm Šupljikca 31a, 10pm Quartet (7pm), Children of the Light Trio Mikhalkov’s the skin’s natural elasticity conspire • Lost Paris Tapes, Klub Akademija 28, • Unplugged Duo, Red Shoes, Ada (9pm), Nills Peter Molvaer& Moritz von Nemanjina 28, 10pm Ciganlija, 10pm Oswald (11pm), Dom Omladine, Dečanska 22 PROGRAMME Crimea film to reverse this triangle’s composi- • Lacni Franc, Mikser House, tion, leading to a narrower, less th SATURDAY OCTOBER 18 MONDAY OCTOBER 20th Karađorđeva 46, 9:pm ussian director Nikita Mikhalkov’s new youthful forehead and temple area, • Artan Lili, Grupa Kao Takva, Grad and a wider, heavier jaw line. TH TH film ‘Sunčanica’ (‘Sunstroke’), a drama set • Joan Baez, Dom Sindikata, Dečanska • Ozvučeni tamburaši, Kafana Jazbina, Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, FRIDAY, 17 SUNDAY, 26 Juvederm Voluma can restore Music Gallery, 6pm Concert Hall, 8pm in Crimea, was given its world premiere on 14, 8pm Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 89, 9pm 10pm rd balance and heart-shaped propor- Chopin Fest Belgrade Music Festival October 3 in Belgrade. Before the screen- • Del Arno Band, Božidarac, Radoslava • Unplugged Duo, Red shoes, Ada • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, R tions to the face by subtly adding Production: Chopin Fest Moscow Chamber Orchestra ing, the film-maker met Serbian Prime Minister Alek- Grujića 3, 8pm Ciganlija, 10pm 9pm volume to areas where this is lack- Admission free Musica Viva • Magnifico, Sava Centre, Milentija • Miloš Zeka Petrović, Witch Bar, sandar Vučić and told him that he chose Serbia for • Reggaeton Special, Molokini, Pariska Conductor and soloist: ing as a result of ageing or extreme Popovića 9, 8:30pm Pariska 13, 10pm the premiere because it is a country that cherishes 1a, 11pm SATURDAY, 18TH Alexandar Rudin, cello weight loss. • Gram, Svemirska Kafana boat on Sava, • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar kralja its traditions and makes decisions on its own despite • Charity Night – Mirko and Meex, Mr Concert Hall, 7pm Darko Brlek, clarinet The result is a restoration of the 11pm Aleksandra 73, 10pm external pressure – an apparent reference to the EU Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Guslar Society “Vuk Karadžić” Programme: Haydn, Stravinski, Dr Saša MIŠELJIĆ triangle of youth back to its original • Pure Cream RnB, Club 94, boat on • On Tour, Dom Kulture Studentski • Fullhouse and DJ, Red Shoes Café, The Evening of the Gusle Boccherini, Tchaikovsky urging Belgrade to join sanctions on Russia. form resulting in a softer and more Sava river, 11pm Ada Ciganlija, 10pm Grad, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 179, 8pm Admission free Production: CEBEF oss of fat and elasticity youthful appearance. • Funky House, Industrija Bar, • Autumn Tech Special, Svemirska • Local popo/rock, Tramvaj, Ruzveltova Ticket Price: 600, 800, 1,000 in the cheeks and tem- This is not a dermal filler that is in- Karađorđeva 23, 11pm Kafana, Ušće bb, 11pm TH 2, 10pm SUNDAY, 19 ples can result in a sunk- jected superficially but is instead in- • House Party, Mr Stefan Braun, , Tri šešira, Skadarska 28, 9pm • Spam, Zavod, Kraljevića Marka 1, 9pm , 11am TH • Tamburaši Concert Hall TUESDAY, 28 en look, contributing to jected into the deeper subcutis layers Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Destiny Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, Piano trio Classica Aeterna Concert Hall, 8pm th an aged appearance. and fat pads of the skin, thus restoring • Beatmasters, Povetarac boat on Sava, 10pm SATURDAY OCTOBER 25 Production: Music Centre Cycle: The Winners LThis “hollow” appearance can volume and enhancing the face. 11pm Admission free Jevgenij Starodubcev, piano make you look older than you really • Ladies Night, KST, Bulevar Kralja TUESDAY OCTOBER 21st • 30th Belgrade Jazz Festival: Programme: Scriabin, As the filler is placed deep within Aleksandra 73, 10pm VasilHadžimanov Band/VH Trio feat. David WEDNESDAY, 22ND Prokofiev, Stravinsky are. Loss of volume in the mid-face the tissues, it adds support to the region is one reason why people overlying skin and restores facial • Kišobran Party, Drugstore, Bulevar • Xeno & Oaklander, Drugstore, Bulevar Binney (9pm), Pusching-Sass-Diabate: Music Gallery, 6pm Production: Music Centre tend to develop jowls and nasola- Despota Stefana 115, 10pm Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Mutua (11pm), Nils Wogram Nostalgia Cycle: Music Workshop Ticket Price: 600, 800, 1,000 contours, providing immediate re- Maja Matijević, piano bial folds - lines that run from the • Cave Dogs, Klub Akademija 28, • Ozvučeni tamburaši, Kafana Jazbina, (00:15am), Dom Omladine, Dečanska 22 sults following treatment. Production: Music Centre TH Nemanjina 28, 10pm Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 89, 9pm • Novi Fosili, Sava Centre, Milentija WEDNESDAY, 29 corners of the nose to the corners of It can also be used for chin augmen- Admission free Music Gallery, 6pm • Vatra, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće , Popovića 9, 8pm the mouth. tation, because adequate chin projec- • Dve gitare ex-YU rock i starogradska Cycle: Music Workshop Krsmanović 4, 23pm • Temple of the Smoke, Mnjenje, Grad Few people realise the mid-face tion plays into the balance of facial Kafana Korčagin, Ćirila i Metodija 2a, SATURDAY, 25TH Ana Ivanković, viola • Škrtice, Dom Omladine Beograda, Cultural Centre, BraćeKrsmanović 4, area is one of the first to show the contours and is often overlooked. 8pm Concert Hall, 11am Jelena Ivković, piano Dečanska 22, 9pm 10:00pm signs of ageing – as we lose facial vol- • Ilija and Bogdan, Kafana Hodač, Small School of Bonton – How Programme: Bach, Brahms, Voluma treatment lasts approxi- • Eighties, KST Klub Studenata Tehnike, – Stadium X, Dimitrija Tucovića 1, 7pm • Belgrade BangerzBday to Listen to the Concert Glinka, Bruh, Mozzart ume, cheeks deflate and descend. mately 15 minutes and patients are Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, 11pm Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, 11pm • Akustična svirka, Čorba Kafe, Braće Host: Miloš Milovanović Production: Music Centre Juvederm Voluma injectable gel free to return to their normal daily , Tramvaj Pub, • Smreksi home rock Krsmanović 3, 9pm • Beatmasters, Povetarac boat on Sava Production: Music Centre Admission free is the first and only filler that is FDA- activities immediately after treat- Ruzveltova 2, 10pm • Lili Bend, Red Shoes Café, Ada river, 11pm Ticket Price: 100,00 approved to instantly add volume ment. • Profesori Band and DJ, Red Shoes TH Ciganlija, 10pm • Ex Yu 80s, KST, BulevarKralja THURSDAY, 30 to the cheek area. The results has been shown to Café, Ada Ciganlija, 10pm Aleksandra 73, 10pm TH • Ninties Night, Mr Stefan Braun, SATURDAY, 25 Concert Hall, 8pm Irena Grahovac It is a safe and highly effective der- last for up to two years. Patients • Eighties, KST KlubStudenataTehnike, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Concert Hall, 8pm Belgrade Music Festival mal filler made of natural hyaluron- report looking five years younger BulevarKralja Aleksandra 73, 11pm Belgrade Music Festival RTS Mixed Choir • Birthday Party, Witch Bar, shows new fashions ic acid, HA, which is a major com- six months after injections, and Kumanovska 14, 10pm • Profesori Band and DJ, Red Shoes Alexandar Rudin, cello Programme: Mokranjac ponent of our own skin. It works by still looking three years younger 24 • Karaoke Night, Cafe Bar Iron, Obilićev Café, Ada Ciganlija, 10pm Programme: J.S. Bach – Suite f Conductor: Bojan Suđić ne of Serbia’s most prominent fashion replenishing natural moisture in the months after the injections. • Home Eighties – DJ Lapac, KST, Klub or Solo Cello Production: CEBEF Venac 24, 10pm designers, Irena Grahovac, presented her skin, restoring , Studenata Tehnike, Bulevar Kralja Production: CEBEF Ticket Price: 200, 400, 600 • Iggy and Mima Stardust (pop night) new collection on October 9th. She is best structure, vol- Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm Aleksandra 73, 11pm Ticket Price: 600, 800, 1, 000 FRIDAY, 31ST known as a designer of leather and fur ume and softer TH O th contours to the FREE COPY WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 22nd SUNDAY OCTOBER 26 SUNDAY, 26 Concert Hall, 8pm fashion items. After the show, a variety of famous Concert Hall, 11am From the Chief’s Kitchen 2014/2015 faces attended a cocktail party, including singers face. th Cycle: Kolarac Podium Conductor: Muhai Tang It is a great , Mr Stefan Braun, • 30 Belgrade Jazz Festival: Jacob Goca Tržan and Ognjen Radivojević and model and Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. • Disco House of Chamber Music Valery Sokolov, violin Anderskov (7:30pm), Paolo Fresu Soloist: TV host Boško Jakovljević. option for those Nemanjina 4, 11pm American Recital Z. Kodaly, P. I. Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Quintet (9pm), Sylvie Courvoisier Programme: who want a fuller, younger facial ap- • Freshmen Party, KST, BulevarKralja Concert author: Aleksandar Sedlar Tchaikovsky, M. Mussorgsky & Mark Feldman Quartet with Billy pearance without surgery. Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Aleksandra 73, 10pm Production: Music Centre Production: Belgrade Mintz and Scott Colley (11pm), Red Trio This injectable substance can re- Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić • Karaoke, Witch Bar, Kumanovska 14, 10pm Admission free Philcarmonic Orchestra • Duo Rouz, Red Shoes Café, Ada (00:15am), Dom Omladine, Dečanska 22 verse the ageing process to a certain BIRN editorial team: Three years ago Allergan Facial Aesthetic Ciganlija, 10pm • XAXAXA, Gun Club, Miloša Pocerca 10, degree by adding fat and filling out chose Dr Saša Mišeljić as a National Facial Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, the areas of the face, restoring youth- Aesthetic trainer. He is one of the first Gordana Andrić fulness and great facial contours. It restores a youthful appearance plastic surgeons to use Juvederm Voluma [email protected] by re-contouring it, replacing lost to patients to restore facial contour and Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović volume where necessary in the give them a more youthful profile for up Phone: +381 11 4030 302 cheeks, temples, chin, and jawline. to two years. [email protected] TRATTORIA Subscription & Distribution: PIZZERIA Goran Knezevic Address: Požarevačka 39 +381 11 4030 303 Phone: +381 11 2456 259, [email protected] Mobile: +381 63 7704 456 Nebojsina 8 Email: [email protected] Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. 011/3863-999 Website: www.laderma.rs ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight [email protected] COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 www.restoranamici.rs Circulation: 4,000 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 15 GOING OUT SPORT Sunce: Continued from page 1 At a press conference in front of of- in advance and that Serbia took no re- ficials and thousands of cheering fans, sponsibility for what happened at the Albanian captain Lorik Cana described stadium. Serbia the violence on the pitch as “brutal” “The key question is how the EU and Old-style and the incidents as a sad day for sport. UEFA will react,” he said, adding that “if “When there is a violent act in a sport- someone from Serbia pulled out a flag ing environment we can’t be happy of Greater Serbia in Tirana or Pristina counts cost although we kept our heads high and it would already be on the UN Security kafana with only protected ourselves,” Cana said. Council schedule”. Cana noted that apart from Serbian Vanja Udovičić, Minister of Youth fans, stewards of the Partizan stadium and Sport, said parading a flag of of Albania had also attacked them. Greater Albania was an “unacceptable After the match was abandoned, provocation by extremists” and that he a young Albanians fans turned out also in the expected Albania to condemn it. streets of the Kosovo capital, Pristina, “This was the brutal abuse of sport football match cheering the Albanian team. Most by Albanian extremists,” Udovičić told waved flags and other Albanian sym- the Serbian news agency Tanjug. crowd bols and stayed until late. mayhem A group burned a placard with the younger crowd. No longer haunted by word “Serbia” Football is Cheap booze, local drunks and downtrodden busi- on it. nessmen, it has become a place where Many of the supposed live music and a students go to listen to live bands and Kosovo fans party late into the night. demanded to bring top-top location Sunce got a bit of a face-lift several that UEFA months ago, but it is still far from attrac- punish the people have turned this tive. There are some nice, big pictures of host country turn-of-the-last-century Belgrade on the for letting the slumbering tavern walls and the ambient is a bit brighter fans run wild on the pitch. together and more cheerful than it once was. How- Dozens of Albanians also gathered into a hipsters’ ever, it still looks like a standard Serbian in southern part of the bridge in the and our game tavern, or kafana, at least by day. At night divided city of Mitrovica, in northern favourite. they might put up some Christmas lights The staff are mostly middle-aged mestic beer, wine and Serbian brandy, don’t want to listen to the music, try to Kosovo, while a number of Serbs rallied should not and other embellishments to make the servers, dressed in regulation black- they come cheap. get there early and grab a seat out front on the northern side of town. David GALIĆ place look more festive to patrons, but and-white semi-formal wear, which Over the last couple of years there while the weather is decent. Inside, it is The Kosovo police said no incidents be mixed the décor is still far from dazzling. further intensives the impression of has been an eruption in the number of hard to ignore the music. It’s really loud, were recorded between the two sides. nexpectedly transform- Despite all the attempts at moderni- having stepped backed in time to a tav- nightspots that try to recapture that old and you won’t be able to have a normal Albanians in Macedonia who fol- with politics ing itself from a lowly zation, you still feel like you’ve entered ern of 40 years ago. The tables are even kafana atmosphere and update it for conversation, no matter where you sit. lowed the match also gathered in the traditional kafana to a a Socialist-era tavern. But, perhaps that more traditional, complete with the a newer generation, but Sunce is defi- Most of the patrons are at the young- streets to vent their dismay. of any kind. popular nightspot, Sunce gives Sunce its charm. It also could be typical plaid pattern tablecloths that nitely not one of those. It serves drinks er end of their twenties, but it is also Parading cars decorated with Alba- has become a great place that the people who hang out in the tav- were so popular in that era. at prices you would expect from an popular place among foreigners. So, nian flags, sirens and fireworks could toU dance and drink the night away. ern these days don’t much care about The only thing that separates Sunce old kafana, and the owners have made if you want a centrally located night be heard and seen late into the night in The scenes in Most locals remember Sunce as a how it looks. from say, the old kafana Mornar, lo- no real effort to change the look of the spot and you don’t have much money the Albanian part of the capital, Skopje, hole-in-the-wall tavern located next to The location is certainly as good as cated right across the street, is the live place to attract hipper crowds. to spend, Sunce is a great option. If you as well as in the western towns of Teto- Belgrade were popular concert hall, Dom Omladine. it gets. About a minute’s walk from Re- music. And because of the live music, But, it is incredibly cheap, there is live don’t like it, because it is so central, you vo and Gostivar. You would go there for lunch if you public Square, in the same building as it is constantly packed with a much music every night, and its location is can always leave - without feeling like Ethnic Albanians from Montenegro inexcusable.” wanted a cheap but fairly bland tradi- Dom Omladine, you cannot get much younger crowd than you would nor- great. That’s why it is popular. The bands your whole night out was wasted. Serbia’s Stefan Mitrović pulls down the banner with the Greater Albania flag. Photo by Marko Drobnjaković/AP took also to the streets on Tuesday tional meal, or sit down for a beer be- more central and downtown than this. mally expect to see in such a place. in Sunce almost exclusively play Serbian night in the towns of Plav, Ulcinj and fore catching a show at Dom Omladine. A large open space, it has a small ter- Another reason for its popularity is the music. Mostly, what you will get to hear Sunce ideos and pictures show was proud of the Albanian team and Kosovo, the mainly Albanian-inhabited Tuzi, where ethnic Albanian make-up It is hard to explain how the spot has race out front that is open when the low price of food and drink. While the here are popular Yugoslav-era rock and Address: Dečanska 1 Serbian fans attacking disappointed by the hosts. territory that declared independence the majority of the population. become so popular, especially with the weather is fine. choice of drinks is usually limited to do- pop tunes that everyone knows. If you Phone: +381 63 111 58 05 Albanian players with “Proud of the red & black team be- from Serbia in 2008. More than half of A parade of cars with Albanian flags, Michel Platini, punches and kicks as cause they won the pitch through foot- Albania’s football team comes from Ko- whistles and boisterous singing kept the Serbian players try to ball,” Rama wrote. “A pity for our neigh- sovo. those towns awake late into the night. UEFA President Vprotect them. bors who lost face across the world,” he Tens of thousands of Albania fans In the Serbian capital, the mood was Magnifico winds Horse acrobatics Serbian fans also threw torches and added, referring to the incident. had gathered across the region to see more downbeat. Serbian officials and lighters at the Albanian players, as they The UEFA European Championship the match in maxi-screens set up on the public in general blamed the Alba- He denied that any violent incidents left the field. One Albanian player was 2016 qualifying match was the first squares. nian side for disrupting the match, call- occurred on the Serbian side. up tour in Belgrade show at the Arena hit by a hooligan who had invaded the match played between Serbia and Al- After the game was scrapped, thou- ing a flag a provocation. “We showed that we are good hosts. pitch. bania since 1967. sands of Albanian fans in the Mother The Serbian media also reported Not one bad word came from our side. lovenian musician Magnifico, who has become a cult favorite in the re- ere is a treat for horse fans - the Pegasus Horse Gala, an UEFA confirmed that the match had No Albanian fans were allowed to at- Teresa Square in Tirana, the Albanian that Serbian defender Stefan Mitrović Even after this provocation, most of our gion for the music he created for the Serbian mega-hit movie Montevi- acrobatic show featuring 20 horses. It is the first time a been abandoned while its disciplinary tend the stadium in Belgrade because capital, paraded across town honking pulled down the flag in order for the fans remained calm,” Udovičić added. deo, will sing for the first time in Belgrade on October 18th. After 15 stints performance of this kind has made it to Serbia. For kids commission will decide whether to of fears of violence. horns and branding the flag. game to continue, accusing Albanian Serbian players were careful in their in Slovenia, Italy and Switzerland, this will be Magnifico’s final show with who love circus tricks, acrobats, colourful costumes, punish the teams. The decision reflected concern that About 3,000 then moved to the air- players of causing the brawl by over- statements. the Serbian Army Orchestra. and of course, horses, this is the perfect show. Visitors In a statement on Twitter, Albanian tensions between supporters could port to greet the Albanian national reacting. “We just want to play football,” Bane SSpanish singer Luz Casal will join him on stage as the special guest, singing her Hwill have a chance to see ponies as well as Andalusian horses. The Prime Minister Edi Rama, who is due turn violent due to the history of con- team as it arrived from Belgrade at Ivica Dačić, Serbia’s Foreign Minister, Ivanović, captain of the Serbian nation- greatest hits. Tickets for the show at the Sava Center cost between €12 and €20 at Horse Gala will put on two shows in the Belgrade Arena, on October to visit Serbia in a few days, said that he flict between Serbs and Albanians over 3.30am. said that the drone stunt was prepared al team, told reporters. the box office. Magnifico has promised a spectacular show, saying that Belgrade 25th and 26th, and tickets cost from €15 to €35. The Horse Gala was cre- is especially dear to him because this is where the ideas for creating the music for ated by Bavarian Josef Hofling in 1994 and has performed all over Eu- Montevideo came to him. rope ever since, including for the Queen of England’s birthday in 2002.

Trio of indie rock Reggae veterans groups at KC Grad hit the stage again Belgrade, Ljubljana and Skopje unite to Former Hüsker Night with Del Arno Band, the first reggae band bring us three fine indie rock groups in Dü leader in Belgrade again Dance festival folk legend Joan Baez in the former Yugoslavia, will open one night. Representing Serbia will be The man who wrote some of the most highlights on camera One of the legendary figures of the the Vračar Rocks Festival on Saturday, Ti, a psychedelic pop duo that has been loved songs for the legendary garage If you missed the Belgrade Dance American folk music and civil rights October 18th at the Božidarac Cultural getting rave reviews since first appear- rock band Hüsker Dü, Grant Hart is Festival earlier this year, you can relive scene, Joan Baez will be playing at the Center. As the band seldom performs ing a couple of years ago. They will be coming back to Belgrade to perform some of its top moments captured in city’s Dom Sindikata on October 18th. these days, and as it has not held a joined by TRUS! from Ljubljana, whose with his solo band. Hart will be playing photographs. All of the images come As you may see for yourself, even at concert in Belgrade for more than four music is fairly hard to define, and The in KC Grad on Friday, October 17th. to us courtesy of photographer Jelena the age of 73, her performances are as years, this is an opportunity to catch a John from Skopje, who play a very Expect not only to hear his latest songs, Ćalasan. The exhibition will be held at haunting and powerful as they were live rendition of some of their hits, both trippy and unpredictable type of punk but also all of your favourite Hüsker Dü the Štab Gallery on Friday, October 17th. when she first hit the scene in the 1960s. old and new. Tickets cost around €3 at rock. The concert will be at KC Grad on classics. Entrance is free of charge. Tickets cost between €15 and €45. the door. October 29th. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 17 - Thursday, October 30, 2014 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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