To The Inside: OLSEN TWINS BUILD GLOBAL EMPIRE/18-19 p Pg. 17 N.Y. SpringWWD C

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 6, 2005• $2.00 List olle ctio WWDTHURSDAY ns Sportswear Nude Awakening — With his spring collection for Christian Dior, John Galliano did a surprising about-face, embracing the notion of showing overtly commercial, rather than simply fanciful, clothes on the runway. The results were relatively simple, nude-toned clothes, overlaid with black lace, with the construction details outlined in piping. Here, one of his stylish, corset-detailed looks. For more, see pages 6 to 11. Bravo to Check Out: Burberry CEO Will Exit Company in July 2006 By WWD Staff NEW YORK — Rose Marie Bravo plans to bid ta-ta to Burberry Group plc next July. The American will not renew her contract as chief executive officer when it expires in nine months, sources close to the British luxury brand said Wednesday. Her departure will come after Burberry is fully demerged from Great Universal Stores, which currently owns 66 percent of the company. G.U.S. said in May the demerger is expected to be completed some time this year. Burberry had a partial flotation on the London Stock Exchange in 2002. See Bravo, Page12 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAYWWD.COM Sportswear FASHION ™ Strong collections from Dior, Lagerfeld Gallery and Comme des Garçons 6 kept the Paris runways humming as the season continued. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Sources said Rose Marie Bravo, chief executive officer of Burberry FALLING FOR CORDUROY 1 Worldwide, will leave the company when her contract is up in July. A Wale of a Season Michelle Wie, the 15-year-old golf whiz, confirmed Wednesday that she has 3 gone professional and signed endorsement deals with Nike and Sony. For many women, the arrival of cooler finding something new to like about the fabric this Seventeen editor in chief Atoosa Rubenstein will get her first major national weather means one thing: there’s a new crop of season. 3 TV exposure this month when reality series “Miss Seventeen” begins airing. corduroy to purchase. And this season doesn’t “I guess my view of corduroy has always been EYE: Actress Ludivine Sagnier, 26, represents the new cool mood in French disappoint. Fall’s favorite fabric is back, softer and stuck back in the corduroy of my teens—you know, 4 film; An ecologically friendly Hollywood party. more comfortable than ever, in a range of casual very stiff, uncomfortable corduroy pants,” says BEAT: Stacey Bendet knows women look to her brand Alice + Olivia for pants, trousers, skirts, shrunken Renee, a 39-year-old software 13 great-fitting pants, so she’s launching a pants-only line for spring retailing. jackets and fitted blazers. executive in New York. “But the DENIM DISH: Big Sway survives in the Big Easy; Brown Label cleans up; “Corduroy as a fabrication has looks that are out there now are Serving Earnest Sewn; Pop-star pinups; Denim’s role models. always been a fall and winter completely different; they’re soft 14 staple,” affirms Sean Krebs, a and plush, with a little bit of ACTIVE: Golfwear is getting a fashion lift from Fila and Puma, which are spokesperson for Gap. “It’s really stretch. I’ve even found some really 16 swinging into the category for spring with trend-driven and directional lines. the silhouettes and colors that will nice corduroy trousers that I would Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen are trading their past as child actors for a future be updated from year to year.” feel comfortable wearing to work.” 18 as businesswomen, building a global lifestyle and entertainment firm. For fall, Gap is featuring Corduroy at the office? Classified Advertisements ...... 22-23 Absolutely. That might have been fine-wale cords in fitted blazers, To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is tailored trousers and A-line skirts, considered a fashion faux pas a [email protected], using the individual’s name. all in rich, autumnal shades like few years ago, but it’s acceptable WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 chocolate brown, green, grape, now, partly because corduroy has FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. and teal. become more sophisticated, at the VOLUME 190, NO. 74. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional “Corduroy is extremely impor- same time that workplaces in issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. tant for us, and we’ve been selling it general have become more casual PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. “Corduroy is extremely Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, since August,” says Diana Salen, important for us. We’ve been and open. After all, as Cotton Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice co-owner of Diana & Jeffries, a Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief selling it since August.” Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice clothing boutique with two — Diana Salen found, 34% of women describe Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Manhattan locations. “Our their work attire as “business-like Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Diana & Jeffries Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: customer loves corduroy. We’ve with freedom,” while 25% said DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box been selling tons of corduroy pants and blazers, and they wear casual clothes to work. In addition, 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; we’ve been reordering.” 89.8% of respondents said that their office had a or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed casual dress policy year-round. on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. Salen carries mainly corduroy jean-style pants All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. from Cambio and Red Engine, as well as shrunken Certainly, pieces such as a well-cut corduroy First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint corduroy blazers, cord jeans and trousers from blazer can help to dress up an outfit. As Banana requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Theory. This season, she’s featuring basic shades Republic’s Brunialti notes, “It’s not about a full-on Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to such as dark green, brown and black, with one or suit for a large part of our customer base, so for a receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615- two pieces in teal; winter-white corduroy jeans have sportswear approach it’s nice to be able to break 5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED already sold out. things up a bit with a little cord jacket.” MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND As Salen sees it, corduroy is the perfect cold-weather “Corduroy looks great for the office when cut TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED fabric. “People like corduroy into a blazer or a trouser,” TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE because when it gets cold Is your office’s casual dress policy affirms Krebs at Gap. “It’s ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. out, it’s an extremely warm seasonal or year-round? especially appropriate in a fabric,” she says. “Jeans are 2004 2005 Change finer wale, because that tends great, but with cords, you to look more polished and Year-Round 86.3% 89.8% +3.5 In Brief have a great jean-like pant Seasonal 12.7% 10.2% -2.5 professional.” that’s casual and extremely And that, of course, brings up warm. And because of all the new finishes, it’s not the continuing corduroy debate over pinwale vs. wide ● BETTER WITH BROOKS: Hampshire Group Ltd. said it ac- bulky or stiff.” wale. The good news? Consumers will find a little bit of quired the David Brooks business from Kellwood Co. for an At a time when city streets, suburban shopping everything to choose from this season. undisclosed sum. David Brooks is a brand that focuses on the malls, and just about everywhere else are a virtual sea At Banana Republic, for example, finer wales are women’s “better” market, making it a “strong building block in of denim, corduroy also offers women a more definitely more prevalent for early fall, featured in Hampshire’s diversification and expansion strategy,” the compa- colorful option for casual wear. everything from lightweight trousers, to a clean-styled ny said in a statement, adding that David Brooks “will reside “Everybody’s talking about denim, so corduroy is cord jean. within a new division of Hampshire to be known as Hampshire But the retailer will be augmenting its mix for late Better Brands.” Ludwig Kuttner, chairman and chief executive important because it’s an alternative to denim that’s officer of Hampshire said, “Through this expansion of our prod- still casual, still looks great, still feels comfortable,” fall and holiday. “The wider-wale cord is a bit more uct line we will reach not only a new category of consumers, but says Jessica Paruch, a trend forecaster for Cotton fashion-forward, more fresh,” says Brunialti. “And also, in specialty stores, a new category of customers, which we Incorporated. we’ll be giving it a little bit more of an abraded look, believe will help to improve our overall performance.” And there’s no doubt that denim’s ever-growing with more texture, which makes it a lot more popularity is affecting the very look of today’s rustic.” ● PUSHING AHEAD WITH SAFEGUARDS: The Bush administra- corduroy, too. “All of the embellishments that we’re Shoppers at Diana & Jeffries, however, will find tion agreed Wednesday to consider 13 petitions for safeguard seeing on denim are now happening on corduroy— mainly fine-wale cords, with just one wide-wale quotas on Chinese imports. Nine of the petitions are reapplica- the embroidery, the patchwork,” says Alessandra corduroy pant from Theory—and even that wider tions of safeguards that expire at the end of the year and cover Brunialti, vice president of women's design at wale, notes Salen, is only about one-eighth of an goods such as cotton trousers and knit shirts of man-made fibers. inch thick. The move kicks off a 30-day public comment period, followed by Banana Republic. a 60-day decision phase, which could be curtailed or extended “We’re doing a lot more abrasion and vintage Salen remains convinced that the average woman as needed. However, the petitions could become moot if feeling, too—a little ripping and tearing on some of prefers pinwale over wide-wale. “The fine wale is American and Chinese negotiators are able to hammer out a the five-pocket cords,” she adds. The colors, she less bulky, and it makes you look thinner,” she says. broad textile and apparel import agreement. notes, also favor a more vintage feel, with neutral This story is one in a series of articles based on findings ● shades such as black, brown, and camel. from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ TRADING PLACES: Building on its efforts to expand economic This fall, everything old is new again. The tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, ties with the Middle East, the Bush administration said it has retro-inspired looks of the season may make us each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the completed a free trade agreement with Oman and will send for- nostalgic for the cords of yore, but finer wales and American consumer and her attitudes and behavior mal notification of its intent to sign the deal to Capitol Hill. innovative finishes have made corduroy infinitely “Oman’s decisive embrace of open trade and free markets paved regarding clothing, appearance, fashion, the way for these negotiations to close in only seven months,” more fashion-forward. Even women who may fiber selection and many other timely, said U.S. Trade Representative Rob Portman. U.S. negotiators have balked at wearing corduroy in the past are relevant subjects. also wrapped up a fifth round of talks for a trade pact with Thailand and agreed to meet again next month. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 3 WWD.COM Nike Nabs Wie Can Seventeen Make ‘Miss’ a Hit? By Jeff Bercovici By Melanie Kletter NEW YORK — There’s a big difference between NEW YORK — Get ready to see being New York famous and being famous famous. more of Michelle Wie. Atoosa Rubenstein may be about to cross over. The 15-year-old golf star con- Long a larger-than-life presence in the pages of firmed Wednesday she has gone her magazines, the Seventeen editor in chief will professional and has signed en- get her first sustained national television expo- dorsement deals with Nike and sure later this month when “Miss Seventeen,” a PHOTO BY CORY LUM/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY Sony in the first steps of what is new reality series, airs on MTV. expected to be a marketing In its rough outline, “Miss Seventeen,” which blitzkrieg. premieres Oct. 17 and will air daily, with new “From the first time I grabbed episodes on Mondays, sounds a lot like the reality a golf club I knew I would do it shows that have come before it. A group of young for the rest of my life,” said Wie women (17 of them, of course) will live together in at a press conference in Hono- a New York City loft, enduring various trials and lulu, held prior to the start of her weekly eliminations. The last girl standing wins The cast of ‘Miss Seventeen.’ school day, to announce her pro the grand prize: A scholarship, an internship at status. “My goal is to become the Seventeen, and appearances on the cover of the and creator of the series in addition to her on-air best golfer in the world.” magazine and in a Maybelline campaign. role as master of ceremonies, said she convinced Nike executives declined to The twist is that “Miss Seventeen’s” candidates “Miss Seventeen’s” producers that pre-screened vil- reveal details of her contract, but are being evaluated not just on their performance lains were unnecessary. “They trusted me that we she is believed to be receiving be- or their looks but on their personal behavior, as would have drama anyway, because there’s nothing tween $4 million and $5 million a captured on round-the-clock hidden cameras. “It’s more dramatic than girls who are competitive.” year. It is also likely there will be a show about being a role ,” said That’s not to say she was above giving the pro- a Michelle Wie golf apparel line, Rubenstein. “The fun of it is seeing who’s just per- ceedings a nudge in the desired direction as similar to the merchandise deals fect on paper. You can have everything perfect on needed. “They would have these spells of being so Nike has with Tiger Woods and paper but still be a bee-yotch.” ‘Kumbaya,’ so at one point I said to them, ‘Girls, Serena Williams, and that she A show about character might seem excessively you’re not here to sing ‘Kumbaya.’” will be the centerpiece of upcom- Michelle Wie, now a Nike athlete, wholesome for a network whose audience made As much as being on “Miss Seventeen” could ing Nike marketing campaigns. in Honolulu on Wednesday. hits out of “” and “.” It’s not, change the winner’s life, the show could have an “As far as Nike is concerned, insisted Rubenstein. “The bad girls are definitely even bigger effect on Rubenstein’s career if it Michelle is a unique individual, and she has the potential to tran- the stars,” she said. proves to be a hit. and Tyra scend her sport, like many great athletes,” said Bob Woods, the She was careful to note, however, that neither Banks both parlayed their reality TV success into president of Nike Golf, at the Honolulu event. “From a Nike she nor the producers knew going in who the bad talk shows (although Osbourne’s was short-lived, brand perspective, it will be a great story to tell as it unfolds.” girls would be. This is in contrast to the artificiality and Banks’ has not performed well in the ratings.) The deal is another indication that female athletes are now of shows such as “The Real World,” in which it fre- Could Rubenstein make a similar leap? She claims garnering major sponsorship deals and can command high price quently seems as though the participants are cho- it’s not something that crosses her mind. “I always tags. Maria Sharapova earned $18.2 million last year, while sen to play certain predetermined roles. think about what I’m working on at the time. I don’t Williams racked up $12.7 million, according to Forbes magazine. Rubenstein, who is credited as executive producer know what that means for me in the future.” By comparison, Tiger Woods took in a whopping $87 million. While she can’t officially become a member of the Ladies CLEARED FOR representatives from at least two management Professional Golf Association until she turns 18, Wie, who is a TAKEOFF: Any companies are also said to be vying for the dinners, high school junior and six days shy of her 16th birthday, has al- questions about according to several industry sources. Agencies like ready played in a number of high-profile events against men, and MEMO PAD Men’s Vogue’s William Morris or CAA would use the private time as a professional she plans to play in both PGA and LPGA events. future have to reach out to potential new clients, while mag She will make her professional debut as a Nike athlete next evaporated. Condé Nast Publications, parent of execs are said to be looking at the dinners as a way week at the LPGA Samsung World Championships. WWD, on Wednesday promoted the new men’s to entertain advertisers and build better celebrity With her golf aptitude and wholesome image, Wie, who is rep- fashion title from test to full-fledged launch. Men’s relationships. resented by the William Morris Agency, is considered a savvy Vogue will publish three times next year — in April, With OK reportedly paying upwards of six figures marketing force who could hawk products in a wide range of cat- September and November — on its way to appearing for access to Jessica Simpson and Sean “Diddy” egories. To improve and refine her look, Wie has also reportedly 10 times in 2007. The rate base will be 300,000. Combs, who could blame them? After all, in hired image consultant-to-the-stars David Lipman, who has The current issue of Men’s Vogue is projected to comparison, a recent $13,600 bid for a night of worked with celebrities such as Angelina Jolie. sell at least 150,000 copies on the newsstand, dishing with the newly married and pregnant Jennifer While she is today an official Nike athlete, Wie has long been according to Tom Florio, vice president and Garner seems paltry, especially when you throw in the sporting the brand’s apparel and equipment and it has been ru- publisher of Vogue. “That was really the final test Todd English dinner. — Sara James mored a deal with the activewear brand was imminent. because we knew it did extremely well with the For Nike, the move represents another step in its goal to build advertisers,” he said. (For comparison, GQ sells CRIB NOTES: Katie Holmes’ ex Chris Klein talked to its golf business, which has been targeted as a key area of growth. about 215,000 copies per issue on the newsstand, WWD’s sister publication Details for the magazine’s Nike signed Tiger Woods in 1996, marking its first significant Esquire about 108,000.) Florio will be the new November issue, the first in-depth interview Klein has sponsorship in the golf arena. The company doesn’t break out title’s publishing director, overseeing a publisher, granted since Holmes’ whirlwind courtship with Tom sales of its golf products, but executives have recently been tout- who is expected to be named within the next week. Cruise began. According to someone who’s read the ing the company’s opportunity in the category and Nike has ex- Florio said the new publisher will come from within article, “Klein seriously disses Cruise’s antics on Oprah panded its product offerings to include a range of apparel, acces- Condé Nast (but it won’t be current Gourmet and elsewhere. Clearly, he thought Cruise was as crazy sories, footwear and equipment for men and women. publisher Giulio Capua, despite recent speculation as we all did. He also claims to be totally over Holmes.” Nike Golf operates as a separate division within the company, to that effect). People magazine is said to be excerpting the Klein similar to Cole Haan and Bauer Hockey. The company’s “other Jay Fielden, who has been officially installed as interview in its next issue, which will undoubtedly business” category including golf had sales of $1.7 billion last editor in chief, said he will continue to work closely feature a Cruise/Holmes cover. On Wednesday, the year, and Nike Golf is the largest segment within that category, with Vogue editor in chief , Men’s celebrity weekly’s Web site had the scoop that Holmes analysts said. Nike also now operates golf camps and schools, Vogue’s editorial director. “It’s important for me is pregnant with Cruise’s child. — S.J. similar to what it does in tennis and other sports, as a way to tap personally that she’s there to consult with,” he said. young talent and build its brand among young athletes. “Maybe now she won’t be around the corner, but WHAT BEE SEES: Bee Shaffer, Vogue editor in chief Jamelah Leddy, an analyst with McAdams Wright Regan, said she’ll be just a floor or an elevator ride away.” Anna Wintour’s 18-year-old daughter, has graduated Wednesday: “While Wie is young and still largely unproven, going But Wintour may have less time for Fielden if, as from glossy Teen Vogue and moved on to a out and signing athletes when they are at the beginning of their expected, work begins in earnest on a shelter-based broadsheet, specifically London’s Daily Telegraph. career is a good strategy for Nike. It reminds me of what Nike did spinoff, likely to be called Vogue Living. Florio Shaffer, formerly a contributor at the teen with Lance Armstrong when no one else would talk to him.” confirmed it’s “something we’d like to do this year,” magazine, will write a monthly style column for the Signing Wie also comes at a time when one of Nike’s highest- but added, “We’re going to finish what we started newspaper starting Oct. 12. A Telegraph paid female athlete, Williams, seem less interested in playing with Men’s Vogue before we start to talk about Vogue spokeswoman confirmed that young Shaffer will tennis than other activities. Nike’s other key sponsored female Living.” — Jeff Bercovici “share her insights, observations and gossip” from athlete now is Sharapova. Over the years its roster of female ath- her base in New York. letes has included soccer champ Mia Hamm and runners Marion NOT SO CHEAP DATES: OK evidently isn’t the only In an interview published in the Daily Telegraph Jones and Jackie Joyner-Kersee. celebrity weekly paying for access to stars. Its rivals on Wednesday, Shaffer, who’s just started her At the press conference, Wie, sporting a pink Nike shirt and are just laundering checks through charitable giving. freshman year at Columbia, said that as a heels, said Wednesday she plans to donate $500,000 to the Hurri- For the second year in a row, Godiva is journalist it’s important that she distances her cane Katrina relief efforts. “Turning pro has a lot of benefits, but I auctioning off dinners with notable personalities at career from that of her mother’s. “I don’t want to am most grateful to be in a position to help people. Over the last godiva.com/charityauction. This time, Jennifer get a job because of who [my mother] is. I don’t month, so many people have lost so many things, and I felt it was Garner, Sarah Ferguson and Ricky Martin are up for want to be 30 years old asking, ‘Mum, can you get my duty to donate to people affected by Hurricane Katrina.” grabs, and proceeds will benefit the Women’s me an interview?’ I want to break away from that as Wie, the only child of Korean immigrants, also stressed that she Cancer Research Institute at Cedar’s Sinai, among much as possible,” Shaffer was quoted as saying. planned to attend and hopefully finish college, but conceded that others. While deep-pocketed fans make up most of Shaffer's father is the noted child psychiatrist she would likely only be able take a few classes each semester. the bidders, magazine executives and David Shaffer. —Nina Jones 4 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 WWD.COM Sanguine Sagnier PARIS — Ludivine Sagnier, her hair wet and matted in a bun, breezes into a hotel here just after noon, slithers onto a white leather sofa and fishes a cigarette out of her Miu Miu bag. Despite her Gallic nonchalance — or because of it — Sagnier, at 26, represents the new cool mood in French film. She’s mellow and sophisticated, intelligent and ad hoc, with a beauty that’s neither too studied nor too neglected. She feels her Colleen Bell in surroundings instinctually, flagging a Martin Grant, waiter for an espresso. Gwen McCaw in Dressed in Diesel jeans, a pink sweater Diane von and a Christian Lacroix jacket, Sagnier says Furstenberg, she’s just out of the shower — not the gym, a Elizabeth Wiatt fact she punctuates with a cloud of smoke. inin Missoni.Missoni. “I take care of myself,” she insists. “But I like a little destruction and a little of…healthy life. I’m a simple girl — really.” Whether that’s actually true, Sagnier is Eco Chic one thing for sure: hot. She’s coming off LOS ANGELES — “I hope all the solid reviews for her complex performance black dresses don’t mean we’re as a sleepwalker in director Xavier mourning the death of the Giannoli’s thriller “Une Aventure.” And environment,” quipped Elizabeth few can erase the memory of her cavorting Wiatt, co-founder with Laurie David as a psychopathic nymphomaniac in of the Natural Resources Defense Francois Ozon’s “Swimming Pool.” Council Action Forum. Wiatt, herself The actress has also been busy offscreen. wrapped in a summery Missoni Six months ago, she gave birth to her first dress, joked, “We at the NRDC get child — a daughter, Bonnie — with her co- advance word about heat waves.” star in “Aventure,” Nicolas Duvauchelle. The annual eco-salon, held at Sagnier met the tattooed actor just over Morton’s and sponsored by Ralph a year ago and they’ve been the “It” couple Lauren Fragrances, drew the of French film ever since. Miu Miu even requisite Hollywood wives — Gigi brought the pair together for its spring ad Grazer, Kelly Meyer, Heather campaign, shot by Terry Richardson. Thomas Brittenham, Gwen McCaw, “I was pregnant in those pictures,” says I take care of myself, but Sofie Howard and Colleen Bell, Sagnier. “But at least I knew Terry “ many of whom valet-parked their wouldn’t make me get down on all fours I like a little destruction. hybrids out front. Hollywood and stick a feather in my bum.” —Ludivine Sagnier” recruits included Mandy Moore, Born in Sevres, just west of Paris (“It’s Julia Louis-Dreyfus, Christine Lahti very green and bourgeois”), Sagnier’s father and Nia Vardalos, who, instead of taught English (she speaks it seamlessly) tree-killing goodie bags, received a and her mother wanted her to play piano. complimentary NRDC membership “Music was too complicated,” she says. and a wooden pen. “Words were more my thing. Theater was my compromise with my parents. I started theater at seven and went to the conservatory in Versailles.” She enrolled in university, acted in a string of supporting rolls, and then got To wit: She’s already made some inroads in her French attitude. noticed by Ozon, who cast her in “Water Hollywood (in 2003 she played a fey “I won’t play to that American star Drops on Burning Rocks” and “8 Women” Tinkerbell in P.J. Hogan’s “Peter Pan”). And game,” she insists. “In France it’s not good SARDELLA/WIREIMAGE DONATO HER TISCH AND NRDC PHOTOS BY before “Swimming Pool.” she says she has a “couple” of projects to be seen too much; in Hollywood it’s a What makes Sagnier rare is she’s an art- incubating next year in the U.S. virtue. I prefer keeping my mystery.” house darling who can also do mainstream. But one thing Sagnier won’t change is — Robert Murphy

HIGH FIVE: Last eye® week proved to be a Mandy whirlwind for the Moore in Angeleno social set, a Mayle with five events in four dress and days. No one was better a Marni prepared than Jamie sweater. Tisch, who started the week in garden-party prints for outdoor affairs in Bel Air and Beverly Hills, then moved on to airy chiffon blouses and trousers for store openings in Los Angeles (including Williams-Sonoma Home’s, which she cohosted), and ended the week in a tailored outfit at Morton’s. This week, Tisch In Carolina kept a lower-profile, In Louis Herrera at the In Derek opting to take her In Prada Vuitton DVF lunch. Lam and In kids to Disneyland, and Gucci at Tuleh at Valentino at Ford United Williams-illiams- and Tory where the only Julia Louis- Get Tied Cancer Sonoma by TRB photographers were Dreyfus with to the Front Home at NRDC wearing mouse suits. Laurie David. Cause. lunch.lunch. party. lunch.lunch. VON FURSTENBERG OPENING PHOTO BY JEAN-PAUL AUSSENARD/WIREIMAGE; VUITTON LUNCH BY ALEX BERLINER@BERLINER STUDIO/BEIMAGES; ALL OT AUSSENARD/WIREIMAGE; VUITTON BY LUNCH JEAN-PAUL VON FURSTENBERG OPENING PHOTO BY What Does the Future Hold? KYLE ERICKSON, TALAYA CENTENO KYLE ERICKSON, TALAYA PHOTOS BY GEORGE HENSON,AQUINO,PHOTOS TURNER JOHN DAVID GEORGE CHINSEE, THOMAS INNACCONE, The Changing Retail Landscape Issue Date: October 31 Close: October 7

The deals of the century are rocking the world of retail. Mergers and acquisitions are changing the landscape as we know it. Who benefits? What changes will impact your business?

Now is the time to make your mark on the future.

For more information, contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p. group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 6 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 Reality and Fantasy Showing real clothes just comes naturally to some designers, while others are new converts to the notion this season. Then there are those for whom experimentation will always reign supreme.

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Lagerfeld Gallery

Christian Dior: Let’s get naked — er, nude. And let’s do from his elaborate July couture collection. That made found it too much so from Galliano, conversion may be it in high style courtesy of John Galliano, whose for spare, nude-toned clothes overlaid with black lace only a retail season away. spring collection for Christian Dior both intrigued and piping for corsetry outlines and various markings and confounded his audience. A merch fest of the of construction. He worked the motif every which way, Lagerfeld Gallery: Karl Lagerfeld is in reevaluation sensual-chic sort, it was filled with beautiful clothes in dresses, coats, pants and even a trio of politely mode. Last week, he established a dazzling new and a fab new slouched-up take on the saddle bag alluring two-piece swimsuits, digressing only ever so direction at Fendi, and on Wednesday morning, he laid flaunted exit after exit. Yet it took the crowd by slightly to replace the black outlines with crystals or to out his creative blueprint for growth mode at Lagerfeld complete surprise, especially given the venue — the allow the nude to amp up into shades of pink and Gallery. In it, he made no-nonsense, unfettered clothes soaring, spectacularly renovated Grand Palais, a orange. And because a girl must chase the chill interesting by the well-placed flourish, as if he setting many thought would inspire Galliano to somehow, Galliano countered the overall wispiness deliberately sought a mood of Yankee practicality equally grand levels of theatrical splendor, all with sporty washed denims and a few voluminous laced with a soupçon of Continental chic. It should costumed ingeniously and referenced clear up to the leather coats. High evening was but a moment — provide plenty to smile about in the Hilfiger camp — cupola and beyond. swaths of chiffon and organza festooned and bunched whatever happens there. Instead Galliano stripped away all fancy, even down seemingly at random, yet with the same ethereal calm Lagerfeld focused on two key themes. Crisp white to plain hair and makeup, save for a few geometrically as the day clothes. shirts came in every incarnation — as just plain shirts whitened eyelids, while building on a single reference It all made for a lovely, if low-key affair. And if some worn with pants or shorts; extended into dresses and WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 7 WWD.COM Christian Dior Christian Dior Making Waves arisris

Christian Dior

PARIS — When Derek Lam was asked to design a capsule ready-to-wear collection for Tod’s, one guiding light was a picture of chairman Diego Della Valle’s motor yacht, the Marlin, which was previously owned by president John F. Kennedy. The handsome, 51-foot boat with its gleaming wood trim exemplifies Tod’s understated, practical and relaxed approach to luxury. To wit: Lam’s chic waxed cotton “yachting” jackets can potentially withstand an ocean drenching — or simply make fashion waves in the lobby of the Ritz Hotel. That’s where Tod’s set up camp for two days to unveil its new apparel venture. The spectacular suite was arranged as if a young couple were honeymooning in Parisian style, the rooms scattered with Diptyque candles, Fauchon nibbles — and, of course, luxury sportswear and Italian leather goods. Lam said that his mission is to create a vocabulary of iconic pieces that are contemporary and urban, but “we’re still trying to keep a casual atmosphere.” That translates cropped into neat jackets, sometimes trailing long of homemade crowns, naturally, Union Jack biker shorts into a leather skirt as easy to pull on as a pair of streamers attached at strategic spots. The second motif and tops made from crisscrossing lengths of cloth as sweatpants, lean jeans with a subtle flare and frisky polos in centered on cutouts, neat circles, loops or teardrops cut long as bed sheets wound round and round and round — cotton piqué or double-faced cashmere jersey. Using Tod’s into bodices, skirt hems and jacket closures. The lone like clots of fabric armor. A British flag peeped out from expertise with leather, there is a sleek blazer and a soft embellishments on clean-cut silhouettes — even evening one built-in cocoon. Jackets built up around the version of the yachting jacket with subtle metal hardware. dresses were cut from sturdy daytime fabrics — made shoulders with more looping action lent a tailored Lam said that customers can assemble complete looks for a smart, accessible look, decorative but clean, a bit aspect to Kawakubo’s bulky beauty. and top them off with the ultimate $2,000 trenchcoat in racy without vulgarity. Lagerfeld Gallery has been a And there was no shortage of fabric in Kawakubo’s waterproof cotton twill, but added that the clothes were collection on the verge for years. Now, given its kingdom. Skirts were made from a mix of looping swags designed like accessories, to be bought on impulse to bountiful resources and the designer’s nicely honed of plaid — tartans including Black Watch — tangy yards update a wardrobe. Tod’s plans to launch the line, including vision, it might be poised for real growth. of Hawaiian prints and spliced-in camouflage. a couple of men’s looks, in February at 15 of its 100-plus For some, Kawakubo’s cheeky, off-kilter approach, boutiques, said Claudio Castiglioni, chief executive of Tod’s Comme des Garçons: With childlike pomp and fabric by with its ornamental bloat and wondrous wads, was royal, U.S.A. That includes locations in Beverly Hills, Bal Harbor, the bolt, Rei Kawakubo gave her spring collection the all right: It was the empress’ new clothes. For others, Fla., and on Madison Avenue in New York. Retail prices will royal treatment, approaching the lofty notions of those among her most loyal subjects, Queen Rei and her start at about $425 for a cotton polo shirt.

imperial dressing. Her ceremonial costumes consisted high-minded fun reigned supreme. PHOTOS GIANNONI AND STEPHANE FEUGERE GIOVANNI BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 Sometimes a Great N As the Paris spring season continued, certain designers created collections driven by highly specific ideas. The strongest looks, however, included simply pretty dresses and soft ruffled skirts.

Emanuel Ungaro Emanuel Costume National Tao Comme des Garçons Ungaro

Costume National

Emanuel Ungaro: “Ungaro is charming and funny, not pretty or sweet,” Vincent Darré the best looks were those that balanced that hard edge with just a bit of softness. A explained before his second show for the house, the word “froufrou” tripping pearly silk jacket belted over a sheer dress with a bustier top let loose with a flowing repeatedly off his tongue. And therein lies the dilemma: Funny meets froufrou. While skirt. A pair of jersey gowns did the same, and would have been perfectly lovely sans Darré made marked improvements over last season’s debacle, he overdosed his spring the jeweled embellishment. collection with relentless stiff frills that stopped just short of unfortunate hilarity. This Otherwise, Capasa played a difficult hand. A suit with sharp, skinny pants was meant an overall explosion of ruffles banded around the borders of tight cocktail just barely more wearable than those with above-the-knee skirts that came sheer or dresses, gathered into a puff of a bolero or overdecorating the seams of a dress. layered with strips of organza. The outlook didn’t improve when his fresh pale What looked good was a trio of dresses that must have slipped through the cracks, palette shifted into a shadowy world of jewel tones and disco darks. In the end, it because they were, however unintentionally, pretty. Cut in delicate watery prints was hard to pick out what the designer’s working-woman clientele might find to and done with more demure ruffling, they demonstrated a lightness and ease that wear. Capasa’s essential woman may want to be all of the above — sensual, the rest of the collection lacked. conceptual, erotic — but, hey, she still has to get dressed for the office. Ungaro is not a company that is laughing its way to the bank these days. And Darré needs to convince his audience that he can bring a sense of currency back to Tao Comme des Garçons: Wedged into a nonspot on the fashion calendar, the Tao the brand before it’s too late. Comme des Garçons show was called for noon on Wednesday and started at 12:02 p.m., after one dedicated assistant undusted every inch of a black velvet runway Costume National: It was a tall order that Ennio Capasa set out to fill this season, with a lint brush. The poor thing. But Tao Kurihara’s impressively exacting attitude with a promise in his show notes of “sensual and essential women” that were both goes beyond her clean-carpet quirks. “conceptual and erotic.” So he put the focus on a constructed bust and body-hugging As with her debut last season, Kurihara took a microcosmic approach that was silhouettes, and sent out nearly every look cinched at the waist with a wide belt. But both short and sweet by focusing her collection on a single concept — a concentration WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 9 WWD.COM Notion Andrew Gn Short Takes paris

▲ Bruno Pieters: ▲ Matthew Ames: Showing Romanticism, 18th-century here for the first time, this corsets and men’s wear from American designer’s parade of the Thirties inspired Belgian clean, childish tailoring was Bruno Pieters’ ultra-feminine well executed but a little flat. collection of bell-shaped skirts, slim shorts, fitted bolero jackets, tuxedo blouses and waist-conscious dresses.

▲ Charles Anastase: Little jackets, short polkadot skirts and cute baggy dresses were the fare of this young French designer who ▲ Gardem: The first Paris continues showing for Lebanese to march ▲ Veronique designer Garen Demerdjian, to his own Branquinho whose brand is called drum.

Gardem, featured layered ▲ mixes of washed linen and Tao Comme silk in natural shades with a des Garçons flash of gold. Andrew Gn

▲ Toga: Tokyo designer ▲ Alena Akmhadullina: For her Yasuko Furuta came to Paris first foray in Paris, this St. for the first time with her Petersburg designer’s dresses cute polkadot skirts and cool came with a folkloric accent motorcycle jackets, showing and hand-painted polkadots, that she may have viability making for a charming debut. beyond her native Japan. PHOTOS GIANNONI, DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND THIERRY CHOMEL GIOVANNI BY on frilly knit corsets and cuddly bloomers. For spring, Kurihara pieced together Gn’s new shoe collection also made its runway debut, usually coordinating with the elegantly artsy trenchcoats, skirts and jackets from a slew of embroidered kerchiefs, look in a matching print or encrusted with identical beads. The matchy-matchy look lacy napkins and crocheted doilies. The look was as fresh-scrubbed as a Quaker bride might not be for everyone; then again, neither are Gn’s clothes. But this designer and glowing with grandmotherly goodness. Black lace medallions were grafted to the and his showy clientele are a matchy-matchy made in heaven. edge of a trench jacket in stacked ruffles, while other pieces, most in white, were embroidered with quaint flowers. While it was all meticulously honed and poetically Veronique Branquinho: A quaint, yes, quaint parking garage in the Bastille was the detailed, Kurihara’s clothes are also pretty enough to appeal to the nonfashion arena for Veronique Branquinho’s spring show, where the designer showed no signs victim. The Tao collection may be modest in scale, but it’s majorly gorgeous. of slowing her engines. Branquinho is bursting with ideas almost to a fault. Not citing one specific influence, but rather her woman’s intuition, the designer did say Andrew Gn: It’s easy to see why ladies of a certain tax bracket love Andrew Gn. They’re she felt her “girls were like a modern-day Artemis, the goddess of the wilderness not afraid of a little embellishment, and the designer is certainly not afraid to oblige, and the hunt. They symbolize independence, strength and elegance.” usually quite expertly. For spring, Gn worked it in two ways: first in black and white For the modern-day huntress who’s not into flou, there were plenty of off-center and then in a bold burst of color, albeit with a brief intermission of wooden beading. pleated skirts paired with intarsia knits, capes fashioned to resemble mackintoshes, But even the potentially stark pairing of ebony and ivory was lush in Gn’s hands with lots of shoulder-baring tops with flyaway sleeves and bouclé tweed jackets chunks of jet and milky white glass beads on suits, sweet point d’esprit ruffles on complementing tailored bottoms — all chock-full of commercial appeal. Completing peasant tops and graphic appliqués of pineapples, flowers and lace on everything. her look were opera-length black leather gloves. But a deep love of color is practically encoded in Gn’s DNA. He indulged it with There were several ideas, however, that could have been left on the sample-room swirling bohemian prints cut into tiered dresses with beaded straps and bodices, floor — Eighties unitards, jumpsuits and stirrup pants aren’t quite poised for a and bold combinations of turquoise beads on solid kelly and acid green chiffons. comeback. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 Fashion Scoops

Lazaro Hernandez, Nicolas Ghesquière and Jack McCollough. PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY ART AND COMMERCE: Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are in Paris this week FAMILY AFFAIR: Expect Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, at the selling their spring collection — and whooping it up with fellow designers like Nicolas Ghesquière. Celine show today. Although he doesn’t always make an appearance at his smaller houses, he The duo attended a postshow Balenciaga bash Tuesday at Paris hot spot Le Baron. “Designers don’t balked at that suggestion after Wednesday. “I’m interested in all my brands, always,” he cross-pollinate. We meet up behind the scenes and then watch [the shows] on Style.com like all the said after Riccardo Tisci took his bows. And the pope of fashion’s verdict on that show? “Super,” rest,” quipped Hernandez. As for his take on the Paris fashion scene: “Paris is real fashion, New he replied. York is commerce.” The pair partied with the likes of French actress Emma de Caunes and bad-boy rapper Joey Starr. SWEATER SET: “Ooh la la, not another model-turned-actress,” laughed over coffee Wednesday at Café Marly. Yes, the quirky French beauty is the latest to tackle the silver screen. GOOD BOY: “I’m looking for inspiration,” announced Joel Madden, the lead singer of the band Good The 25-year-old mother of two stars in “Bunker Paradise” by Belgian director Stefan Liberski, Charlotte, as he arrived at the Lagerfeld Gallery in which she plays a lovelorn bourgeois party girl. show Wednesday morning. Madden is in Paris Joel Madden Audrey The film is scheduled for release in French the- with girlfriend , who is promoting her at Lagerfeld Marnay aters in December. “I really got into the charac- new album. In the meantime, the tattooed Gallery. ter,” Marnay said. Madden said he’s “wandering” Paris on his own Not that it was all smooth sailing. — at least when he’s not holed up at the Plaza “They got the wardrobe all wrong,” she said. Athénée contemplating his view of the Eiffel “They brought me a mohair sweater. I said, Tower and strumming his acoustic guitar. “I’m ‘Listen, a rich bourgeois woman doesn’t wear been writing new songs in the hotel,” he said. mohair; she wears cashmere.’” “Inspiration often comes when I’m out of my Though she still walks the runway — but only usual environment.” for — Marnay knew she was headed to film long ago and took acting classes in New York WORD UP: H&M and Stella McCartney remain and Paris. “I was waiting for the right role,” she tight-lipped about plans for promoting the forth- said. “I definitely didn’t want to play a model.” coming H&M by Stella McCartney collection. Last Already, Marnay has wrapped a second fea- month, H&M scuttled a print and television cam- ture with Liberski — what she called “a paign featuring Kate Moss because of the compa- Japanese road movie” — and she’s scouting for ny’s “clear dissociation of drugs” and said it more work. “I’d like to do it all,” she said. would replace the campaign “in some way.” But “Comedy, action, drama. Like John Travolta. I according to sources, several options are being want a career like that, too.” considered for the Nov. 10 launch, including a logo-driven campaign and a replacement model: CROSS ROADS: Home is where the heart is. Make the popular and vivacious model Mariacarla that Chrome Hearts. That’s certainly the case for Boscono. Asked about the rumblings on Karl Lagerfeld, surely one of the biggest cus- Wednesday, Boscono declined all comment. tomers for its sterling silver jewelry and belts. The California firm set to open a boutique on PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 11 WWD.COM

Carré Avenue Montaigne in Paris in the spring, meaning Otis the designer will have another destination besides Christian Dior on the tony shopping strip.

REALITY TV: “It’s a public lynching,” Carré Otis said of the Kate Moss affair at the Givenchy show Wednesday. “The same thing happened to me. She’s an icon; she’ll be fine, even if it doesn’t seem that way when you’re reading about your per- sonal life in the papers.” Otis flew in from San Francisco, where she is finalizing a new television series with 20th Century Fox. Titled “Marin Diaries,” the show tells the tale of Otis’ life before the start of her modeling career in Marin County, California. “It will probably be on cable. It’s too gritty for the regular channels. I didn’t want it to be like ‘90210.’” Further down the row, Julia Restoin Roitfeld was taking a break from her stud- ies at The New School of Design at Parsons. “You can’t get a good crepe in New York,” quipped Roitfeld, who has been busy interning for photog- rapher Craig McDean.

PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY COSTUME DEPARTMENT: While she may be used to charming audiences, French singer Arielle Dombasle is also quite the fashion groupie. “He used to design my costumes at the Comédie Française; he is immensely talented,” gushed Dombasle of Vincent Darré at the Emanuel Ungaro show on Wednesday. Dombasle said she was busy preparing for her concert on Nov. 5 at the Thèatre des Champs Elysées, the proceeds of which will go to the association Reporters Without Borders. Meanwhile, Dianne Picasso was taking a break before head- ing to New York for the launch of her book Nov. 1, an event organized by .

EYE SPY: Designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac made his eyewear launch Tuesday a rock ’n’ roll affair. French New Wave band “The Film” whipped up a frenzy for an artsy crowd, among them André Putman and Casey Neistat — one half of the mischievous moviemakers the Neistat Brothers — who popped in for a boogie. “You can’t have fashion without music,” said Castelbajac, remi- niscing about the time he saw John Lennon decked out in one of his blanket coats. A 30-year ret- rospective of the kooky designer’s work is scheduled to show at London’s Victoria & Albert muse- um Jan. 1 through April 30.

BOOKING ALABAMA: Project Alabama founder Natalie Chanin is spinning her down-home ways into a how-to book for Stewart, Tabori & Chang. Collaborating — something the label is high on — will be a hefty part of the book, which is slated to be released for fall 2007. Aside from learning how to stitch together Project Alabama’s signature corset, readers will pick up tips for piecing together garden trellises, quilts, tablecloths and bouquets. Recipes will also be part of the mix, like the one for Depression-era soup from 82-year-old “Ms. Jessie.” She picked that up from a government-issued pamphlet she found at one of the local canneries set up in the Thirties. Chanin has her own tie to Uncle Sam. The U.S. Department of Labor helped her develop a new system for operating a business in a cottage industry style, by allowing workers to work at home or wherever they choose. “They do the job they want to do and they do it when they want to do it,” Chanin said. “The book is a little bit about empowerment, too.”

LATIN QUARTER: Alvin Valley will be among the designers living it up Latin style at tonight’s book party for “Latin Chic, Living With Sass and Style” at LQ New York. Written by Carolina Buia and Isabel Gonzalez, the tome features Angel Sanchez, Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, , Carlos Miele and Edmundo Castillo. Amira Casar

Jenny Holzer’s latest project opens KARL LAGERFELD PHOTO BY outside the library tonight. Actress Mixes Fashion, Film PARIS — French actress Amira Casar says she spends half her time in museums because she is such a sucker for beauty. “We need to have higher ideals than pure consumerism,” she says over grapefruit juice at l’Hôtel on the Left Bank here. “What I am looking for is elevation. Elevation of the mind, visual elevation and revelation.” To satisfy that quest, she makes more than the odd detour to fashion shows, having taken in Balenciaga already this week and probably Chanel on Friday for her friend Karl Lagerfeld who, besides having an “encyclopedic” culture, “can see right through people.” But the British-born Casar isn’t likely to be defined by her clothes alone. At 34, she has acted in more than 30 films, including Christine Jeffs’ “Sylvia,” Carlos Saura’s “Bunuel y la mesa del rey Salomon” and movies by myriad French directors, including Anne Fontaine, the Larrieu brothers and Catherine Breillat. While her role in Thomas Gilou’s French comedy “Would I Lie to You?” launched her career in 1997, she’s never been categorized. She’s played lesbians, nurses and terrorists and she is always eagerly looking for new challenging roles. Casar recently played the mysterious companion of a blind art historian in the Larrieu brothers’ latest success, “Peindre ou faire l’amour.” The film, selected at Cannes last May, is still looking for an American distributor, but 600,000 filmgoers have seen the movie since its late August release in France. In the Quay brothers’ “The Piano Tuner of Earthquakes,” she portrays an opera singer whose memory is sucked out of her. The film is scheduled for a February release in the U.K. “I like that feeling of plunging into work,” Casar says. “I’m not afraid of hurting, burning or suffering when I work.” Good thing, because her next project with Tony Gatlif does not offer the convenience of a script. Titled “Transylvania,” Casar will portray a rockabilly character opposite Asia Argentino. She’s looking forward to her six weeks of filming in Romania, though. “It’s going to be a life experience, in the cold, the snow. We sweat and suffer together. It’s like a small army. Except we won’t kill anyone. I hope!” she laughs. Casar has her studious moments — she carries Nietzsche in her purse and underlines her favorite quotes — but she also loves humor. “I’m dying to do a good comedy,” she says. — Chantal Goupil HOLZER PHOTO BY CHARLIESAMUELS.COM, COURTESY OF RIGHTS ARTISTS SOCIETY 12 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 WWD.COM Bravo to Exit Burberry in July Continued from page one central London, and began methodically A Burberry spokeswoman in London to build the brand’s presence in such said Wednesday night about reports of areas as accessories, fragrance, chil- Bravo’s departure: “We’ve always said Rose dren’s wear and even home goods. Marie Bravo’s role would evolve over time. The first few years were difficult ones Indeed, it already has evolved over the past and Burberry’s results suffered as Bravo two years, as we have built up a first-class cut back on distribution of the brand and senior management team, which now in- invested in design, marketing and building cludes Brian Blake and Stacey Cartwright, her team. Menichetti’s collections received as well as Christopher Bailey in creative mixed reviews, but were seen as important and design. This is all something the board to build the brand’s image even though is very mindful of. We will update you in Prorsum was not widely distributed. Much due course, when we have something to up- of Burberry’s revenue came from its date on.” Burberry London collection, then operat- Blake serves as president worldwide ed separately from Prorsum and designed and chief operating officer and Cartwright by Deborah Lloyd (who eventually left the acts as chief financial officer and oversees company to join Banana Republic). Project Atlas, an initiative launched earli- Menichetti left Burberry when his con- er this year to upgrade Burberry’s infor- tract expired after three years and in May mation technology and supply chain. 2001 Bravo tapped the soft-spoken, unflap- Bravo’s impending exit was first report- pable Bailey, who was an assistant to Tom ed by FT.com late Wednesday. Ford at Gucci. Bailey’s Prorsum collec- Bravo has increased Burberry’s market tions for women and men have won uni- capital tenfold since her arrival and it has versal praise during his tenure and he helped make her a wealthy woman. In also oversees the Burberry London design 2003, her bonus equalled 100 percent of team so the two lines are more in sync. her annual salary and she took home $3.6 At an early stage, Bravo also tapped million, compared with $3.2 million the Fabien Baron and Mario Testino to shoot new ad campaigns for Burberry that played up the brand’s British eccentricity Anyone trying to do a and starred everyone from Kate Moss “ and Freddie Windsor to Stella Tennant. turnaround, you really G.U.S. remained patient, which Bravo has always applauded. Last November, at have to bank on three to the WWD/DNR CEO Summit in New York, Bravo said, “I would suggest anyone trying five years to really to do a turnaround, you really have to bank on, as we say, three to five years to really manage it and have manage it and have people believe in it and believe in you and believe in the team people believe in it and and stick with it. So that’s the real key.” believe in you and believe Bravo held back on investing in new stores until she felt the collections were in the team and stick right, and then opened a major flagship on New Bond Street in London with a lighter, with it. airier feeling than the brand’s previously ” mahogany-dominated ones. A string of oth- — Rose Marie Bravo ers has followed in major cities world- wide, most recently in Istanbul. year before. Last year, Bravo was paid a Meanwhile, Victor Barnett, Burberry’s total of $3.8 million. then-chairman and a G.U.S. board member, But the real wealth came from stock op- made deals for the brand’s lucrative licens- tions, with Bravo’s total pay package last ing deals, first in Japan and then in Spain. year — including options, salary, bonus, Burberry bought back the license in Spain, A spring ’06 look. Burberry in Tokyo. benefits and allowances — coming to $15 its second-largest market, and renegotiated million. She has regularly cashed in stock the terms of the one with Mitsui in Japan. options, most recently last July when she The deals had a huge impact on earned another $14.2 million by doing so. Burberry’s profits and sales and catapult- While her departure will come as a sur- ed the brand into one of the fastest grow- prise to some, Bravo, 54, hinted two years ing in the luxury arena. Sales, which were ago that her time at the brand might be wind- $460 million when Bravo arrived, are now ing down. Her contract was originally due to more than $1.2 billion. Burberry reported expire this past July, but she agreed to ex- an 18.2 percent increase in net profits to tend it for another year. After 2006, Bravo 109.9 million pounds, or $202.9 million, on had agreed to sign only one-year contracts. a 5.9 percent rise in sales to 715.5 million She also has prided herself on training pounds, or $1.32 billion, for the fiscal year strong executives who one day might take ending March 31 and had similarly strong over as ceo. After Thomas O’Neill left growth in the first quarter ended June 30. Burberry in May 2004 to become ceo of Bravo began her career at Abraham & Harry Winston, she tapped Blake for the Straus in 1971, joined Macy’s in 1974, and role of president. rose through the buying and merchandis- Bravo’s turnaround of Burberry over the ing ranks, primarily in cosmetics and fra- last eight years has become a blueprint for grances, ultimately becoming a general a slew of other luxury brands, so much so merchandise manager at Macy’s East. that many industry executives began using She was chairman and ceo of the former the phrase “doing a Burberry.” Bravo, the I. Magnin chain for five years, from 1987 to former president of Saks Fifth Avenue, ar- 1992, and joined Saks as president in rived at the-then 150-year-old brand when September 1992. There, she was credited it was known mainly for making mannish- with with positioning Saks as a major fra- style trenchcoats and its headquarters grance launch store and with beefing up the were in a fusty building in East London. merchandise at critical locations — the “A” Working 14 and 16 hour days, the stores — by striking deals with designers to charismatic, hard-charging Bravo quickly get exclusives in some markets. Labels such recruited a team of fellow Americans — as Prada, Jil Sander, Issey Miyake, Jean many of whom worked with her at Saks or Paul Gaultier and Zoran, once monopolized at her previous stint at I. Magnin — and by Neiman’s and Barneys New York, could set about turning Burberry into a luxury now be found at some Saks units. brand. She launched a high-end line Five years later, in September 1997, called Prorsum and recruited Roberto she shocked the industry when she an- Menichetti from Jil Sander to design it; nounced she would join Burberry spiffed up its showroom in Haymarket, Worldwide as ceo. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 13 WWD.COM The Beat Alice+Olivia Spotlights Pants

By Lauren DeCarlo collection will hit stores in January. Key styles for spring include satin stretch trousers, stretch linen pants, suspender NEW YORK — Stacey Bendet knows women look to her brand pants and casual capri pants. The wholesale price range of Alice + Olivia for great-fitting pants. Now she wants to make it Alice + Olivia Pants is between $90 and $150. as easy as possible for women to find them, so she is launching The pants collection will be distributed to the same specialty a pants-only line. boutiques and high-end department stores as the Alice + Olivia The collection, simply named Alice + Olivia Pants, will Collection, such as Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman and launch for spring retailing. Neiman Marcus. Bendet said customers can expect to see 10 Since the brand’s inception three years ago, the number of new styles of pants per delivery. pant silhouettes in the Alice + Olivia Collection has almost “Most of the stores pick up the pants first, but then they take doubled to 30 styles. In addition to the signature trouser pants, everything else to complement it,” Bendet said, noting that Alice fashion styles like gauchos, shorts and even leggings have been +Olivia Collection has grown, too. This season, Bendet added added to the mix. flow-y dresses in vibrant prints and shrunken blazers lined with Bendet, 27, in an effort to better brand the collection, wanted vintage concert T-shirts from bands like the Rolling Stones and to give her pants their own home, which meant setting the the Sex Pistols. She’s also experimenting with more fabrics, such collection apart and changing labels and hang tags to feature as vintage lace for tops. The wholesale price range for the the pants collection’s new name. Collection is between $65 and $190. For 2006, Bendet said she “The collection has gotten really big,” Bendet, founder and expects the wholesale volume for Collection and Pants to reach designer, said one afternoon in the newly renovated Alice + Olivia $10 million combined. showroom at 80 West 40th Street here. The second-floor showroom Bendet also said plans are in motion to open a second Alice + sits just above the trees that line Bryant Park across the street. “We Olivia boutique — this one just below the showroom on West 40th are known for creating great pants and I wanted to brand it and Street. The 1,800-square-foot space will feature a custom-fit Pant build a better business in stores so that the retailers can really Bar and will open in the spring. Like the first Alice + Olivia teach customers about our pants.” boutique, which opened in May in East Hampton, N.Y., Bendet Bendet and her partner, Andrew Rosen, expect the wholesale wants the Manhattan one to have a black-and-white interior volume for Alice + Olivia Pants to reach between $5 million and decorated with vintage furniture and accented by pieces from $6 million in 2006. The success of her pants line is due in part to home designer Jonathan Adler. a simple design philosophy to which she subscribes. “A great Bendet would also like to feature the same amenities as her pair of pants should make you look taller and slimmer,” she said. East Hampton shop, which include teas courtesy of Moby’s To achieve this look, Bendet uses a straighter silhouette coupled vegan tea shop Teany and candies courtesy of Dylan Lauren’s with a wide waistband and darts on the seat of the pants. megacandy store Dylan’s Candy Bar. “It segments your butt,” she said. “When you look at the butt, The store will also feature Lotus flower tanks that Bendet the waistband and darts break it up and make it look smaller.” cocreates with ashtanga yoga instructor Eddie Stern. One hundred Also, she explained, darts shape the seat while yokes flatten, percent of the proceeds go toward the Pattabhi Jois Charitable which can make all the difference in a great pair of pants. Trust, which distributes funds to charities in Mysore, India. Tab-front trousers with vintage buttons paired Alice + Olivia Pants will include updated styles from “Hopefully, we’ll open the store in April,” Bendet said. with a crochet lace off-the-shoulder blouse by previous collections as well as new silhouettes. The pants “We’re just trying to take it to the next level.” Alice + Olivia.

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Registration: AAFA, HFPA, TDA: $250 After October 15: $350 Tel: (201) 947-2404 ~ Fax: (201) 947-0911 Email: [email protected] Gold metallic shorts and shrunken green Sponsors: Marketing Management Group • C.I.T. • Herbert Mines Assoc. blazer by Alice + Olivia. PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY 14 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 WWD.COM

Big Big Sway Weathers Storm Sway jeans Denim Dish Big Sway Denim, a New Orleans-based premium and denim brand, salvaged what it could of its inventory T-shirts. after Hurricane Katrina ravaged its warehouse. “We didn’t lose everything,” said Hugh Hayden, founder and designer, along with Victoria Vaughn, of The low-rise the brand that launched last year. “About 65 percent of trouser short from our inventory is OK.” His company was based on the Brown Label’s North Shore of New Orleans near Lake Pontchartrain. debut collection When Hayden reached his warehouse to survey the for spring. damage, he took about 1,000 pairs of jeans, an estimat- ed $85,000 in wholesale value, to a local wash house to be cleaned and dried. Then he took the jeans to the Louisiana Capital Area Chapter of the American Red Cross to be distributed to those in need. “They were so excited to get them,” Hayden said via cell phone. Currently, the Big Sway warehouse and offices have been moved to a temporary space three miles down the road from their previous loca- tion. The current Big Sway warehouse has electricity and a working fax machine and Hayden is working on “getting everything going in some type of normal pro- cedure,” he said. “We’re trying to get back into the swing of things. UPS has just started to run and they’ve been slammed. They are so overwhelmed with packages,” he said. “We’re just trying to wait for the insurance adjuster to come out. We don’t know how long that’ll be, so we’re kind of in limbo right now.” He said he’s hoping to be up and running completely within a week or two. “We have plans to continue on with the line and work on new designs. We started a T-shirt line and that is a small part of the business that’s really going PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY well,” he said. The Big Sway collection gets its inspiration from the South. Key styles include the EmmyLou, a skinny, Verhoeven’s Brown Label peg-leg style designed to fit into cowboy boots, and In the quest for distressed jeans, Jason Verhoeven the Delia, a slouchy, comfy, boyfriend style. used to drag a pair of Levi’s behind his car when he In the meantime, Big Sway Denim has teamed up with actor and comedian Vince Vaughn, Victoria’s brother, was a teenager in Winnipeg, Manitoba. Nowadays, and his Wild West Comedy Show to produce T-shirts for the show. The “Vince Vaughn’s Wild West Comedy Show” is the 35-year-old designer is opting for a more clean, now playing in 30 cities over 30 days, ending Tuesday. Big Sway’s women’s and men’s T-shirts and tanks are avail- refined look for his new denim line, Brown Label, able for purchase on the Wild West Web site, wildwestpictureshowproductions.com. based outside of Los Angeles in Glendale, Calif. “We’ll bounce back,” Hayden said. Verhoeven, who worked at jeans company Chip & — Lauren DeCarlo Pepper for 13 years before leaving three years ago to make private-label clothing for surf companies, A look Blue, which has doors in began working on his first solo design venture last Venice, Malibu and Santa from February. He unveiled the debut collection for Monica, Calif. The sisters Brown Label in August at Project Global Tradeshows Ranahan anticipate generating in Las Vegas. He said he wrote nearly $400,000 in or- Jeans’ $500,000 to $750,000 in ders at the show from 75 retailers, including E Street debut wholesale sales for the Denim Co. in Highland Park, Ill.; Lisa Kline in Los collection year ending in April, and Angeles; Atrium in New York; Blake in Portland, for fall. have their sights set on Ore., and Mercer in Seattle. First-year sales are ex- achieving $1 million in pected to be less than $2 million, he said. revenues during the sec- Brown Label, bowing next spring, uses only ond year in business. Italian denim, either rigid or stretch. The company Jeans wholesale for be- will launch with eight styles for women and will pro- tween $73 and $95. duce jeans for men as well. The offerings include a Ranahan’s Western Roots Jeans from the debut miniskirt with rope stitching done by hand, capris collection, which began with a trouser-style waist accented by double copper In cowboy lingo, the ranahan is a ranch’s top cowhand. shipping Sept. 30, are remi- buttons, and skinny jeans that have a zippered leg. The sister team of Allison and Amy Gammon hope their niscent of Wrangler jeans Wholesale prices range from $86 to $104. new denim label, Ranahan Jeans, will ride to the top of from the Seventies. The yel- The debut collection hits several trends. The cus- the crowded market for designer denim. low and orange stitching tom-made pocket lining evokes Japanese woodblock Allison, 32, and Amy, 30, decided to start their own pops out from the muted in- floral prints, while the unembellished, dark finishes company in April, after serving a stint at Farmer Jeans digo, which has a clean, flat reflect the market’s turn to a more urbane, stream- in Los Angeles. Both share in the design responsibili- finish. The jeans have a lined look. ties, while Allison handles organization and Amy deals quarter-inch hem, just as Brown Label’s clean look and dark wash appealed with production issues. vintage Wrangler’s did, and to Randy Brewer, general manager for Villains Vault Ranahan’s Western feel is in the Gammons’ blood. oversized belt loops to fit in San Francisco, who said light-colored denim isn’t The Los Angeles-born sisters own a farm in central wide belts. popular in the foggy city. Brewer added that Florida where they breed and sell thoroughbreds for Amy Gammon said they Verhoeven’s pedigree also was a selling point. “The racing. Their father, James Gammon, a character actor were careful to avoid de- designer used to be at Chip & Pepper, which is a who made his cinematic debut in “Cool Hand Luke” in tails that resembled those strong line for us,” said Brewer. 1967, provided his own inspiration as well. In the seen in the jeans from Brewer said Brown Label will be among the more Seventies, the senior Gammon took his daughters to a their former employer. than five new women’s jeans labels that Villains theater in Hollywood where other character actors met She said while Farmer Vault will introduce for spring. As one of the top and watched movies about the Old West. “We took those will do special stitching on denim stores in San Francisco, Villains Vault will roots and put them in the jeans,” said Amy Gammon. the jean’s fly, Ranahan will feature a total of 35 brands, he said. The theme for the fall and spring collections is have a side stitch. The PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY Verhoeven is fully aware that a plethora of new- “Urban Cowboy,” while the influence for next fall’s line- Gammons also seared “rj” comers are saturating the premium denim market. up will be “Silverado.” Both movies featured their fa- on the pockets with a custom-made cow brander. But he said many of those entering the market aren’t ther. The Gammon patriarch also will model the men’s What the sisters claim will make Ranahan stand out offering premium quality. jeans, which will bow next year. is a pocket sewn a couple of inches above the hem inside “Everyone is saying premium denim but it’s not Ranahan has already rounded up orders from 60 a pant leg, where a woman can insert a tube of lipstick. premium denim,” Verhoeven said. Instead, he said, stores, including Lisa Kline in Los Angeles and Planet —K.T.L.T. some of the Johnny-come-latelies are providing noth- ing but a premium price. “They’re going for the quick buck and they want to make money because denim is will take the worn jeans from the staff and replace them with hot right now,” he said. a new pair. The returned jeans will then be used as the stan- In contrast, Verhoeven said he put much thought Serving Earnest Sewn dard by which Earnest Sewn designers will authentically into the subtle details for his line, such as designing The premium denim brand Earnest Sewn and the duplicate a pair of real worked-in, lived-in jeans. the inner edge of the back pocket to curve upward restaurant Pastis are working together to create the Pastis seems to have a special connection to the for a more flattering fit. Despite the surfeit of denim perfect pair of lived-in jeans. denim brand. After all, it was there in 2004 that the brands, Verhoeven said his timing in the market is Beginning this month, the waitstaff at the bistro in the founders of the brand conceived the idea to launch right. “There is always room if you are good or if the Meatpacking District in New York will be outfitted in Earnest Sewn over steak sandwiches and a grilled product looks good.” Earnest Sewn’s rigid premium jeans for roughly three to six chicken paillard. —Khanh T.L. Tran months. After a few months of wear and tear, Earnest Sewn —L.D. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 15 WWD.COM Denim Report Elton Pop Star Pin-ups John BERLIN — Lee’s rider jackets have gotten the celebrity treatment for an upcoming show at London’s hip Notting Hill Arts Club. Premium Blends Backstage Scrollan, a Berlin-based design agency, has submitted three jackets featuring portraits of rock stars creat- Emina Cunmulaj ed entirely out of different colored pins for the “Stuck On Me” show, which will run from Monday to next Wednesday. As the title of the show suggests, the exhibit is devoted to pins and buttons and will display the work of 30 creative teams on this theme. The Lee jackets, depicting rock Michael luminaries Michael Jackson, Ozzy Jackson Osbourne and Elton John on the back, will be shown under the title “Sex, Drugs and Rock & Roll Begin to Get Old.” “We’ll leave everyone to make their own minds up as to which singer stands for sex, which one for drugs and which one for rock ’n’ roll,” said Barbara Kotte, one of the three designers who came up with the idea. “We chose these pop stars because pins are quite an Eighties Mona thing and we wanted to depict peo- Johanesson ple who had been around then. These guys are not exactly the youngest singers around.” PARIS — If premium denim is having any slowdown, lengths. The girls are getting taller, and the jeans Kotte describes the jackets as both design objects and the news hasn’t reached the models stalking the run- are getting longer,” Marks said. fashion items, and she has even tested the waters herself by ways during fashion week here. Once out of their Still, some models claimed even they have fit wearing them around Berlin. Of course, the German capital catwalk finery, they slip into their favorite dunga- problems. Snejana Onopka, wearing Versace jeans, being a city renowned for way-out fashion, no one really rees to rush to the next show. said, “I have a big problem finding jeans because I looked, she said. “I always want jeans that other girls don’t have,” am tall and have long legs.” Each of the Lee jackets will be sold for 850 euros, or said , sporting her Sevens backstage Regardless, there’s no slacking off on the jeans $1,012.95 at current exchange rates, at the end of the exhibition. at Emanuel Ungaro on Wednesday. “But they’re front. Spotted backstage were Carmen Kass in her So will Scrollan be making more jackets? hard to find.” Ralph Laurens, Emina Cunmulaj in her Hollisters, “No way,” said Kotte, laughing. “Sewing 350 pins onto each “I have so many jeans,” she continued, adding Mona Johanesson in her Diesels and jacket was complete madness and drove us totally insane.” most brands fit her well. in her Dundups. — Damien McGuinness “I have long legs, and many jeans come in long — Jennifer Weil 16 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 WWD.COM Active LifestyleX Tee Time for Puma, Fila By Melanie Kletter mock turtlenecks made in bright colors, polo tops, miniskirts and a golf dress with a thick belt, all made of NEW YORK — Golfwear is getting a fashion pick-me-up a polyester microfiber. Lifestyle looks include cotton T- from Fila and Puma, which are both swinging into the cat- shirts and tank tops with large polkadots. egory for spring with trend-driven and directional lines. There is also a selection of accessories, such as a Boosted by younger, stylish players such as Michelle kelly green golf bag, visors and caps, and a golf umbrel- Wie and Grace Park, the golf category has been attracting la. For those who want to step out in style, the footwear women in their teens and 20s, and fashion companies comes in hues such as bright yellow, orange and green, have heard their call with the introduction in recent some of which have spikes. years of colorful and stylish merchandise. More compa- Suggested retail prices for the apparel collection nies have entered the golf category, which now includes range from about $40 to $65 for tops, $50 to $65 for bot- sport brands such as Nike and Adidas; lifestyle labels in- toms and up to $150 for outerwear, said Philion. cluding Polo , Burberry and J. Lindeberg, While Puma has recently pushed its fashion offerings and traditional golf lines like and lifestyle looks over traditional sports Cutter & Buck and Ashworth. merchandise, the company is not abandoning Nonetheless, Puma and Fila its performance roots, he noted. believe there is room for them in “We are known for the fusion of sport the crowded sector, and both are fashion and lifestyle, and our golf collection positioning their lines as sport is the perfect example of that,” he said. “It lifestyle collections. combines performance pieces with technical “We wanted to confront a very details that have the brands’ signature style.” traditional and conservative The company declined to give sales pro- sport and make it more accessi- jections, but said the golf line is part of its ble and visually appealing for strategy to almost double its current size in today’s consumers,” said Robert the next five years. Puma said recently it be- Philion, business unit manager lieves it has the potential to generate 3.5 bil- for Puma Golf. “We also feel that lion euros, or $4.2 billion at current ex- golf is the single-largest game change, in sales by then. Puma had sales of that combines sports and $1.99 billion last year. lifestyle, which makes it a per- For distribution, Puma is targeting bou- fect fit for our overall mission.” tiques on green grass resorts and golf Last year, golf manufacturers clubs, as well as resorts and golf spe- had sales of about $2.6 billion for cialty stores in addition to its mix of categories excluding apparel, ac- fashion and lifestyle stores. Last cording to the Sporting Goods week Puma executives exhibited at Manufacturing Association. the PGA golf show to meet with buy- Golf is a new category for Puma. (SGMA and other research or- ers and generate interest in the line, is also a selection of accessories and footwear. ganizations don’t track golf ap- noted Philion. “We are positioning our golf line as the new version parel sales.) And the game clear- Fila, meanwhile, is returning to a of sport luxury,” Reilly said. Wholesale prices for Fila ly attracts the affluent: The average household category it was in about 25 years ago, Golf start at about $55 for polo shorts and go up to $110 income for a woman who plays golf is about and its entrance into golf is part of the for some of the outerwear pieces. He said the company $92,000, according to SGMA, and golf tour- firm’s relaunch as an upscale athletic has aggressive sales goals for the golf collection. naments are often sponsored by upscale brand rooted in its Italian heritage. Fila is also targeting green grass shops located at re- companies such as Cadillac and Rolex. Fila, now owned by Sport Brands sorts and golf centers. To kick off its entrance into the For Puma, golf is part of the compa- International, rolled out a selection of category, Fila was a sponsor at the recent Seven ny’s long-range growth strategy, as men’s golfwear for fall, and women’s Trophy golf tournament in Dunham, England, and out- spelled out recently by its chief execu- is rolling out this spring. fitted players, marshals and staff at the event. tive officer Jochen Zeitz. The golf line “Golf is an important introduction While Fila and Puma are eager to tap the potential combines Puma’s sports heritage for us, and one of our top growth of the market, some golf retailers say it isn’t limitless. and lifestyle direction, and is mak- strategies now,” said Jim Reilly, a “People make the mistake of thinking that the golf ing its debut this spring in the U.S. senior vice president at SBI. market is larger than it is,” said Charles Rhee, general and around the world. Fila’s line includes technical out- manager at New York Golf Center, one of Manhattan’s The collection includes colorful erwear, polo shirts and woven pants, largest golf stores. “It’s already overcrowded.” footwear and apparel, and many as well as cashmere sweaters. Many Rhee said he has seen an uptick in sales of technical of the items have stretch proper- of the items have special touches, merchandise with performance properties and has con- ties and technical features such Fila’s golf like a UV finish for sun protection, tinued to increase his selection of women’s offerings, as moisture management and ven- collection stretch knit panels on outerwear which accounts for about 40 percent of apparel sales. tilation patches. Among the per- fuses sports and seam-sealed, waterproof “Everyone already has the core golf shirt,” he noted. formance offerings for women are and luxury. zippers on rain jackets. There “There has to be a real reason to buy something new.”

dollars, but retail prices are in U.S. dollars, reflecting the fact that 70 percent of Lija’s Lija Style Takes a Fresh Approach to Golf business is now done in the U.S. at golf By Brian Dunn started to grow, with several accounts shops and smaller women’s boutiques in- picking up her wares. Next, she turned cluding Pebble Beach Golf Co. in Carmel, MONTREAL — Linda Hipp is an avid her attention to the U.S. market, where Calif., and Golfdom in McLean, Va. golfer who also loves fashion, but a few the line has been selling for the last five Polo shirts and pants retail for up to years ago she was frustrated with the ho- years. It really started to take off last $120, while shorts sell for up to $100. hum golfwear that was on the market. year after Hyp exhibited in Las Vegas Lija’s high-tech line is pricier, with “All I saw were ugly pleated shorts and the PGA show in Orlando, Fla. wind-and-water-resistant jackets selling and big shirts,” lamented the 38-year- Because her styles are more fashion- for $300, while Basics, a lower-priced old, who resides in Vancouver, British forward than traditional golfwear, Hipp line, has shirts retailing for $50. Columbia. “Golf apparel was masculine- recently decided to change the name of “We’re more fashion-driven than ne- driven, even though an estimated 24 per- her company from Hyp Golf to Lija Style cessity-driven,” Hipp noted. “We focus on cent of all adult golfers are women.” (pronounced leezha), a play on the word the style aspect by integrating a European Armed with a marketing degree and a leisure. The name change also reflects look with what style forecasters predict. career in business development, Hipp the rebranding from strictly a golf line Our clothes are designed to fit a woman’s decided to do something about it. She into activewear and leisurewear. silhouette and we use cotton stretch left her job at the company that owns In its first full year in business in 1998, blends for comfort and technical fabrics.” the Vancouver Canucks hockey team and Hyp had sales of $17,000 and 15 styles in Jimmy Contreras, co-owner of started Hyp Golf in 1997, doing her own two basic color groups. Last year, sales Lija combines Kimberly Boutique in Philadelphia, said: sketches before hooking up with a pat- topped $1.5 million from over 600 golf active and “The line is funky, colorful and refresh- ternmaker and two local manufacturers. shops across North America. The sales fig- leisureleisure looks.looks. ing and it appeals to all ages. Women will After two lean years, the business ures have been converted from Canadian just buy the top to wear with jeans.” WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 17 WWD.COM

New York Fashion Week didn’t just draw some of fashion’s hottest designers. Celebrities like Catherine Zeta-Jones, Rosario Dawson, Rachel Weisz, Paris Hilton, the TheWWDList Williams sisters, Scarlett Johansson, and Eva Longoria also drew plenty of buzz from the crowds. stole the number-one spot again in Style.com’s Top 20 most-viewed fashion designers from New York, earning over 650,000 more page views than for the period following his fall 2005 February show. In fact, 11 collections broke the one million page views mark this season, compared with seven last season. Designs On New York In all, Style.com hit 34 million page views during fashion week. One of the most popular: singer-turned-fashion designer Gwen Stefani. Her first L.A.M.B. show shot Top spring collections based on the number of Style.com up into second place, but is that due to her collection or her fan base? — Cecily Hall page views during the first 12 days they were posted online.

MARC JACOBS CAROLINA HERRERA Page views: 2,200,452 Page views: 1,023,132 Jacobs rose to the occasion by featuring a collection Herrera delivered distinctive clothes with a chic that included A-line skirts over knife-pleated attitude. She focused on details, inspired by the petticoats and cashmere sweatshirts. For evening, Twenties. WWD noted, “The clothes as a whole felt 1 WWD said, tiered, beribboned gems could have 11 too decorative at times, but taken individually, celebrity clients chirping his name on the red carpet. contribute a lovely authority to New York’s new mood. ”

L.A.M.B. IMITATION OF CHRIST Page views: 1,770,845 Page views: 980,857 Though Gwen Stefani attributed her inspiration to Tara Subkoff’s spring collection “was all plenty the Twenties, more of the show came in the form of stylish and, most importantly, capable of being mass- dry ice and low-riding cars with hyper hydraulics. produced and sold,” said WWD. White cotton 2 Rasta colors, tracksuits and snakeskin fleece all bore 12 dresses, men’s jeans and T-shirts and waves of denim elements of Stefani’s style. (bleached and dark) were shown on the runway.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA DIANE VON FURSTENBERG Page views: 1,396,274 Page views: 908,964 “Without question, fashion’s most debonair Von Furstenberg’s signature wrap dresses practitioner still has an ample supply of frills left in combined sex appeal and comfort, while flared him.” said WWD. Motifs included suits, sweaters and jackets, an ivory crochet suit, Empire cotton 3 curvy dresses. WWD asked, “Who wants restraint at 13 baby dolls, and a beige trenchcoat hit were night? Not Oscar’s ladies.” thrown into the mix.

ANNA SUI VERA WANG Page views: 1,351,832 Page views: 811,085 Prints of all sorts decorated Sui’s whimsical collection, Wang’s combinations of volume, prints, textures and filled mainly of floaty dresses. But, WWD said, “As shapes were gutsy and beautiful, WWD said. delightful as it all was, the endless dress brigade grew Intricate cuts made dresses provocative. Dressed-up 4 repetitive.” Sui did, however, impress her audience 14 sportswear featured small, constricting jackets over with some surprising sportswear looks. decorative blouses. Wang’s gowns dazzled as well.

RALPH LAUREN BADGLEY MISCHKA Page views: 1,229,038 Page views: 778,863 Lauren mixed elements of beachy knits, patchwork Mark Badgley and James Mischka’s beaded looks, denims, cardigans and ruffled blouses. Lauren also stunning gowns, including a chiffon tank and an fit in impressive cotton eveningwear frocks. “The Empire look in beige lace, marked an impressive 5 clothes were stunning and validated once again 15 return to the runway. “This was a collection rich Lauren’s intrinsic sense of decorum,” said WWD. with wonderful clothes and ideas,” said WWD.

MICHAEL KORS PROENZA SCHOULER Page views: 1,213,316 Page views: 729,990 Looks straight from the prairie were featured in Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez offered a Kors’ collection this year. An embroidered chantilly fresh collection of numerous pieces in various hues lace shirt dolled up a sensible khaki skirt, while a of gray. “There was a real romanticism to these

AN BY DAVID TURNER; Y-3 BY GIOVANNI GIANONNI GIOVANNI BY TURNER; Y-3 DAVID AN BY 6 tiered, golden skirt sparkled under a linen trench 16 clothes,” said WWD. And coats were a definite and white tank top. strong point. R AND RODRIGUEZ BY JOHN AQUINO; SUI, KORS, KLEIN AND BADGLEY JOHN AQUINO; SUI, KORS, R AND RODRIGUEZ BY MARC BY MARC JACOBS Page views: 1,186,219 Page views: 716,040 “The designer showed a collection that had bits and Karan’s dresses wowed the crowds, as she displayed pieces of Olivia Newton-John, as well as piles of those richly colored pieces with an Empire cut — a look terrific, do-it-your-way clothes that both girls and that could appeal to women of all ages, WWD said. 7 boys love,” said WWD. Leggings, layers and zippers 17 What didn’t work so well were the abstract prints were strewn throughout Jacobs’ designs. Karan commissioned from Elora Hardy.

ZAC POSEN TOMMY HILFIGER Page views: 1,092,608 Page views: 671,408 Posen revealed ideal pieces one could easily wear on “A spit-and-polish window display for potential a Sunday afternoon — a plaid bubble dress, a button- bidders, maybe. A clear statement of his company's down blouse tucked into a pleated lemony yellow silk direction — definitely.” Hilfiger went back to his 8 skirt. Intricate cutwork and embroidery decorated 18 roots for spring: squeaky clean prep with just a simple silhouettes. soupçon of cool.

CALVIN KLEIN NARCISO RODRIGUEZ Page views: 1,086,457 Page views: 647,130 Despite the stifling heat of the venue, Francisco Rodriguez’s dresses were ultrachic in structured, Costa showed a standout collection, toying with washed linens and spring-colored silks. Ballooned- themes of lightness and air against a white-based out dresses and a gold silk coat were all beautiful in 9 palette. WWD said he “maintained a minimalist 19 structure. Still, WWD said he “needs to mine a little integrity in quite complicated clothes.” deeper for new ways to express his so-chic aesthetic.”

BCBG MAX AZRIA Y-3 Page views: 1,066,532 Page views: 591,233 Volume was the name of the game for BCBG Max Yohji Yamamoto showed jeans, T-shirts and Azria. And though the volume craze has hit plenty of sweatshirts but threw in full skirts and short ruffled designers, Azria kept the look fresh, for example, jackets as well. WWD said, “More likely buys may 10 with low-slung, striped pajama pants — tops and 20 fall into the vein of a black cutaway jacket, or a red dresses were also given a fresh spin on boho. sleeveless cotton dress with a subtle neckline.” MISCHKA BY ROBERT MITRA; DE LA RENTA AND MARC BY MARC JACOBS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; VON FURSTENBERG AND WANG BY TALAYA CENTENO; KAR TALAYA BY GEORGE CHINSEE; VON FURSTENBERG AND WANG JACOBS BY MARC BY AND MARC DE LA MITRA; RENTA ROBERT MISCHKA BY PHOTOS: JACOBS, BCBG MAX AZRIA, HERRERA AND HILFIGER BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; L.A.M.B., LAUREN, POSEN, IMITATION OF CHRIST, SCHOULE PHOTOS: JACOBS, BCBG OF CHRIST, THOMAS IANNACCONE; L.A.M.B., LAUREN, POSEN, IMITATION MAX AZRIA, AND HILFIGER BY HERRERA SOURCE: STYLE.COM. THE WEB SITE HAS A MONTHLY READERSHIP OF MORE THAN 1,200,000. THE AVERAGE AGE OF THE AUDIENCE IS 35, WITH A MEDIAN INCOME OF $68,000; 83 PERCENT OF READERS ARE FEMALE. 18 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 Olsens All Business in Move Fr By Khanh T.L. Tran LOS ANGELES — Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen are trading their past as beloved child actors for a future as global businesswomen. The 19-year-old twins are taking control of their compa- ny, Dualstar Entertainment Group, and finessing their focus on fashion, home, beauty, brand management and en- tertainment. In addition to emerging celebrity rivals, they face the challenge of trying to entice an older, more sophis- ticated consumer who has outgrown tween sizes and lost interest in entertainment starring the sisters. “We’re getting older,” Mary-Kate told WWD in an exclu- sive interview. “We have more things to say. We want more things to accomplish in our company.” With apparel representing about 80 percent of the busi- ness, Dualstar rang up an estimated $1 billion in retail sales in almost a dozen countries in 2004. The line is sold at Asda in the U.K., El Campo in Spain, Auchan in France and The Warehouse in New Zealand, among other overseas re- tailers. Dualstar is preparing to launch sales in Australia. The Olsens’ fragrances are in broad distribution at Kohl’s, Claire’s, CVS and Walgreens in the U.S. Last January, the Olsens acquired full ownership of Dualstar and became co-presidents. Even as they take art and French classes in their second year at New York University, the Olsens are more hands-on than ever at the Culver City, Calif.-based company. The twins have come a long way. They made their televi- sion debut on the long-running sitcom “Full House” when they were nine-months old. Dualstar was founded in 1993 with the Olsens’ then-manager and lawyer, Robert Thorne. After “Full House’’ ended in 1995, their popularity kept growing because of the show’s global syndication and their home videos. The mary-kateandashley line launched at Wal-Mart stores in the U.S. in 2001, and the Olsens soon ex- panded into 14 different categories, ranging from 89-cent pens to $1,615 beds. In separate interviews with WWD, the Olsens discussed their vision for Dualstar. Among their goals are: ● Developing a high-end fashion brand by investing in a different company or bringing in an outside designer. ● Transforming their 30-person enterprise with offices in Culver City, New York and London into a boutique brand management firm supervising emerging labels and talent in both the fashion and entertainment worlds. ● Generating ideas for a so-called incubator, a separate di- vision that was formed in Dualstar about four months ago to research and test new brands in fashion, home and beauty. ● Taking a more active role in the film production division by producing and purchasing properties, meeting with direc- tors and making movies for brands managed by Dualstar. The Olsens also must contend with equally young and ambitious competitors, particularly Hilary Duff, the 18- year-old singer and actress who last week unveiled plans to head her own fashion and lifestyle company. And, in a twist worthy of a show business saga, Duff is teaming with Thorne, who will manage her brands targeting both the tween and junior markets. The twins already enjoy a comfortable lead. In this year’s “The Celebrity 100” compiled by Forbes magazine, which ranks stars according to earnings and buzz, the Olsens were at number 35 and Duff was listed at 54. In the previous year, the Olsens ranked 48 and Duff was 72. Still, Duff is off to a fast start. She has signed a fragrance deal with Elizabeth Arden for a junior brand called Hilary Duff. Wal-Mart and Kohl’s expressed interest in being part of Duff ’s tween label, Stuff by Hilary Duff, said Cory Silverstein, executive vice president of New York’s Kids Headquarters, which will manufacture Duff ’s swimwear, sportswear and sleepwear for tweens starting next year. Spokeswomen for both Wal-Mart Stores Inc. and Kohl’s Corp. declined to comment. “We wish both Mr. Thorne and Hilary Duff great suc- cess,” said Diane Reichenberger, chief executive officer of Dualstar. “There is plenty of room for all of us in the marketplace.” Duff ’s new brand exposes the lack of junior apparel and swimwear in the Olsens’ business. In 2003, Dualstar scrapped a junior line marketed under the mary-katean- Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen at dashley label after two seasons because of lackluster sales this year’s Cannes Film Festival. at 500 Wal-Mart stores. “It wasn’t something we were able to grab,” Mary-Kate said. “Wal-Mart doesn’t know that [teen] customer yet.” Wal-Mart has begun initiatives to spruce up its image and offer more fashionable Swimwear, also marketed under mary-kateandashley, was sold at Wal-Mart from products. Jacqui Young, a spokeswoman for Wal-Mart in Bentonville, Ark., declined 2001 through 2004, until the retailer remerchandised all swim brands to hang togeth- to comment on the Olsens’ teen clothing and swimwear. But she said the mary-kate- er on one rack. andashley brand, available in more than 3,000 stores, is one of the most popular for “We do best when our brand can stand alone and showcase our direction as is,” Wal-Mart. said Michael Stone, co-chairman of New York’s Beanstalk Group, the licensing “The kids love it and the adults love it,” she said. agency hired by Dualstar in 1999. Reichenberger said Dualstar has held “internal strategic conversations” about tar- WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 19 WWD.COM rom Show Biz to Global Brand geting an older demographic under a new label. The company may return with a Sam Ciardi swimwear collection as soon as next summer, she said. Still, what sets the Olsens apart from Duff and other competitors is the entertain- ment library amassed from the twins’ past TV shows, videos, books and DVDs that continue to attract tweens. They are exploring opportunities to lure older shoppers, and they introduced new fragrances from Coty and cosmetics from Nu World in the last three years. But their movie released last year, a comedy called “New York Minute” about college-age sisters in the Big Apple, fizzled at the box office. So the Olsens are taking charge. In late August, as other college students prepared to start the new semester, the sisters sat at a conference table in Bentonville poring over spreadsheets that detailed sell-throughs, markdowns, gross margins and sales by color grouping for their mary-kateandashley brand. Along with representatives of their company and licensing agency, the Olsens faced planners, buyers and merchan- dising managers for accessories, sleepwear and other divisions at Wal-Mart, which sells the Olsens’ clothing line exclusively in the U.S. and Canada. The 35-person meeting was the culmination of a two-day visit to Wal-Mart’s head- quarters. Wal-Mart executives were initially unsure why the twins wanted to attend Diane Reichenberger the annual business review, Reichenberger recalled. Ashley said the sisters’ last trip to Bentonville had been in 2002 for Wal-Mart’s annual shareholders meeting. The goal said. “It was really nice to hear their concerns and also for me to be able to come back this time was to assess the state of the business. and say, ‘You should trust us sometimes.’ ” “It’s obviously important for them to know we’re 100 percent behind it,’’ Ashley More business review meetings between Wal-Mart executives and the Olsens are in the works. “We are serious,” Mary-Kate said. The Olsens are refining their new strategy with Reichenberger, 44, who joined Dualstar as Thorne’s successor in March. Reichenberger’s résumé includes the re- launch of L.A. Gear Inc. and stints at Joe Boxer Corp., Gap Inc. and other apparel companies. Dualstar has eliminated projects that didn’t align with its renewed focus on fash- ion and style. It stopped making new videos, DVDs and books centering on the Olsens. Since January, the company has hired four new employees, including a brand manag- er, and plans to recruit more designers. Designer Sam Ciardi, 35, was promoted to ex- ecutive design director, replacing Judy Swartz, the former chief designer who left in June to pursue her own fashion line. Swartz couldn’t be reached for comment. “We’ve really been narrowing down the company and doing things we want to do,” Ashley said. Mary-Kate added: “At the end of the day, it’s our face and name on it.” We’re getting older. We have more things to say. We “want more things to accomplish in our company. — Mary-Kate ”Olsen Dualstar is increasing the fashion quotient in the tween label. Ciardi’s first collection as lead designer will appear next summer. He said he will replace ramie cotton with 100 percent cotton or cotton stretch fabric in all denim, twill and cotton-based apparel. Double hangtags featuring a miniature primer on how to put an outfit together ap- peared for this year’s back-to-school season. The aim was “just to help the customer see the vision for the brand, to let her know that it is cool to mix-and-match pieces,” Ciardi said. Dualstar also hired a new coordinator for research and testing for the incubator. “Mary-Kate and Ashley personally have ideas that they would like to explore in fashion, home and beauty,” Reichenberger said. While Reichenberger reviews the in- cubator’s progress with the Olsens weekly, Mary-Kate and Ashley work on it daily. “It was really great to start getting something done that we always wanted to do,” Ashley said. Dualstar has begun adding new brands. It will move into the boys’ market by devel- oping the D.C. Sprouse brand for Dylan and Cole Sprouse, 13-year-old twin brothers who star in “The Suite Life of Zack & Cody” on the Disney Channel. Reichenberger said a D.C. Sprouse clothing line targeting young men and men could bow next fall or holiday. She said Dualstar hopes to unveil plans for a high-end women’s brand by the end of October. The key to successful brand management is a network of agents, brokers and con- tacts with sponsors, media and corporations. Rick Barrera, president of branding consultancy Overpromise Inc. in San Diego, said the Olsens have a powerful network. “They’ve nurtured those through their career and would be able to leverage them,” Barrera said. “Most of those people they know are not easily accessible to the average up-and-comer.” Gwen Stefani, Sean “Diddy” Combs and others followed the Olsens’ lead into the celebrity fashion business. So far none has a lifestyle empire matching the Olsens’ Dualstar. And the Olsens are definitely interested in fashion. The mishmash outfits they wear to class and about town have generated a new fashion trend among college-age women. Mary-Kate sat in the front row last month at the Calvin Klein fashion show in New York, while Ashley interned at Zac Posen last year. In addition to tracing patterns and pinning dresses, Ashley sat in on fittings and learned why Posen picked certain pieces for the catwalk. “It’s so different because we’re dealing with, you know, mass merchandise and they’re dealing with more cou- ture pieces,” Ashley said of working at Posen. The Olsens’ background in targeting the mass market and their personal style of dressing in layers could be an obstacle to jumping into the junior market, said Fraser Ross, the owner of the influential Kitson boutique in Los Angeles. “The translation from Wal-Mart to junior-contemporary is hard,” he said, adding that sexy and form-fitting clothes photograph and sell better than baggy. “Maybe they should go into accessories because they did make [popular] those big bohemian beads,” he said. (The Accessories Council will bestow the Accessories Council Excellence Award to the Olsens in November for having an impact on the business.) That may be the case. But Mary-Kate said she and her sister have already found a following as other young women mimic their style and the press chronicles their lat- Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen at the est looks. Met’s Costume Institute gala.

OLSEN PHOTOS BY FOC KAN/WIREIMAGE AND ZACK SECKLER OLSEN PHOTOS BY “Ashley and I have really taken fashion icon roles,” Mary-Kate said. 20 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 WWD.COM Chinese Luxury Arriving on Fifth Avenue By David Moin which is silk that is naturally treated through a proprietary technology to make it NEW YORK — With a luxury appeal that look like leather. transcends most Chinese imports, Blanc de Among the home products are travel Chine is getting ready to open its first U.S. blankets, sheets, duvets and sleeping bags, store in late November, on the northeast cor- A rendering of all in silk. About half of the collection is in ner of Fifth Avenue and 53rd Street here. Blanc de Chine’s women’s, about 30 percent men’s wear, and The site, 673 Fifth Avenue, blends Fifth Avenue the rest home goods. Chinese tradition with modern styling and facade. Drapacz previously worked at Vivienne sophisticated fabric treatments. Tam, Polo Ralph Lauren and Financo, where “We are bringing the heritage and culture he was often involved in strategic development of ancient China to a modern ready-to-wear and branding assignments. He acknowledged approach,” said Jack W. Drapacz, vice presi- the Blanc de Chine brand is virtually unknown dent and general manager for the Hong in the U.S. However, he said it has a following Kong-based Blanc de Chine in North of expatriate bankers in Hong Kong and those America. “We felt there was a void in the lux- who repeatedly visit the city. He also said the ury market when it came to Eastern-influ- timing for the U.S. launch is good, considering enced collections.” how influential China has become in America Blanc de Chine’s arrival follows that of and the current popularity of designers such Shanghai Tang, the subsidiary of as Derek Lam, Jeffrey Chow and Vera Wang. Compagnie Financière Richemont SA, Blanc de He sees the U.S. having just a few more which has a store on Madison Avenue be- Chine’s Blanc de Chine stores, possibly in Los tween 63rd and 64th Streets. Shanghai modern Angeles and in south Florida. A Shanghai Tang offers a broader range of products, approach to store is also being considered, as is some real however, including more casualwear. the classic estate in Europe. “This is not going to be a 50- Blanc de Chine will have two selling Qi Pao dress. store chain in the U.S,” he said. floors totaling 2,400 square feet, a 1,000- Drapacz would not disclose the company’s square-foot showroom for wholesaling starting next year, a two-story window for a volume as it is privately owned by real estate developer Kin Yeung. However, other grand view into the store, tall decorative bamboo screens, and a spiral staircase. It’s sources said the volume is somewhere between $5 million and $10 million. being designed by architect S. Russell Groves, who is known for a clean and sensual ap- He was more forthcoming on the Fifth Avenue store’s potential, stating it should do proach that Drapacz said is consistent with the Blanc de Chine aesthetic. more than $1,200 in sales per square foot per year, which equates to close to $2.9 million. The company has only one store, a 12-year-old unit in the Central District of Hong Kong. Ye ung owns the building at 673 Fifth, which previously housed The Museum Store. The Women’s rtw, representing roughly half the volume of the line and ranging in price company also owns a factory in Nansha, China, and has 300 employees, including a team of from $400 pants to $2,500 dresses, will be on the first floor; men’s wear, with jackets designers. Two collections, for fall and spring, are created each year, with three to four de- priced from $600 to $1,200, and home products will be displayed on the second floor. The liveries per season. There is also a diffusion collection called Bleu de Chine, which is sold collection emphasizes Mandarin-collared jackets; the “Qi Pao” little black dress, which in stores in Asia and may be introduced to the States in the future, Drapacz said. is offered in various styles; Italian fabrics; jacket and coat linings as meticulously styled The designs are inspired by eight Zen-influenced principles: sensuality, serenity, as the outer shells, and generally, looks that “don’t overwhelm the wearer,” Drapacz said. purity, simplicity, harmony, subtlety, comfort and functionality. “They become one, with him or her.” “Blanc de Chine’s name is taken from the white porcelain of China that was used Also offered are cashmere tops; blazers in silk, cashmere, cotton and linen; pants; in the 18th century,” Drapacz said. “It was coveted by Europeans for its delicate na- eveningwear; coats; blouses; pajamas; scarves and belts, and a special “leather silk,” ture and beautiful composition.” Superdrug to Raise Fragrance Presence By Brid Costello brand it as a beauty destination. “It’s a really nice hotel in an incredible loca- LONDON — Superdrug, the U.K.’s second- tion, but it’s always been a bit of an ugly duck- largest health and beauty retailer, announced ling,” said Jeffrey Roseman, executive vice pres- plans to increase the number of fragrance de- ident of Newmark Retail, the retail leasing team partments in its stores by 30 percent in the run- for the hotel. “It’s been a little bit outdated, and up to the holidays. it’s time to revitalize it.” The A.S. Watson Group-owned This is a real estate make- chain will then have scent coun- over with a beauty bent. High- ters in 600 stores, or almost 85 BEAUTY BEAT gate Holdings, a hotel firm based percent of its doors. in Dallas, acquired the Park “Superdrug shoppers are always on the scent Central, which sits on the corner of Seventh of the best beauty and fashion buys, and now Avenue and 56th Street, near the tourist beacons more and more of our customers can buy their fa- of Central Park and Carnegie Hall, several years vorite fragrances from their local store, not just at ago. The company intends to give the staid prop- Christmas, but all year round,” stated Euan erty an Ian Schrager touch with a $65 million Sutherland, Superdrug’s managing director. renovation that centers on bringing in a major Superdrug, which competes with Boots The beauty or spa player to brand the hotel and draw Chemists, the U.K.’s leading health and beauty guests, Canyon Ranch-style. chain, offers prestige fragrances at discount The hotel currently has more than 900 rooms prices. Its top-50 fragrance brands are priced on and 250 executive club rooms and suites, and average 20 percent less than in competing only one retailer, a Starbucks on the ground stores, according to the company. floor. Newmark is working with Highgate to seek Superdrug also claims to give discounts of up out spa operators or retailers to develop a major to 75 percent on recommended retail prices for retail front in the 30,000 square feet of retail designer brands, noting in the statement that it available in the hotel and possibly partner with offers a price of 31 pounds, or $54.50 at current the owners to exclusively use its products exchange, for a 25-ml. bottle of Alexander throughout the hotel. McQueen’s Kingdom Pure Perfume, compared Though Roseman kept mum on dealings with with a recommended retail price of 125 pounds, specific firms, he said they are speaking to or $219.80, for instance. brands like Canyon Ranch, Aveda and Elizabeth The retailer said it sells 125-ml. bottles of Arden. Elizabeth Arden Fifth Avenue eau de parfum for “It’s incredibly important who the retailers 15 pounds, or $26.40, compared with a recom- are in the hotel,” said Roseman. “There are spe- mended retail price of 48 pounds, or $84.40. It cific customers that follow certain brands as also sells 75-ml. flacons of Versace Red Jeans part of their lifestyle. If we can capture them, eau de toilette for 9.95 pounds, or $17.50, com- we can make a jewel out of this hotel. pared with a recommended retail price of 22 “The owners are holding off on completing pounds, or $38.70. the renovations because they know that a major retail player would be a partner,” he continued. “They would absolutely take input on the design Park Central Eyeing Beauty Bent of the lobby and the renovation of the hotel from NEW YORK — The dowdy Park Central Hotel in the retailer they put in place.” Midtown here is ripe for a makeover that will — Amy S. Choi Did you get the SCOOP? This holiday season, the editors of WWDScoop have made their list and checked it twice to deliver an issue decked with holiday travel hot spots, inspirational art and design, seasonal fashion and beauty must-haves, fine holiday cuisine and extraordinary entertainment. Wherever you are in the world, give your brand a place in this ultimate gift of style and make it a season to remember. PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE

Next Issue: November 14 WWDSCOOP Close: October 7

Bonus consumer distribution: 20,000+ style-minded jet-setters in New York, Los Angeles, Milan and Paris; hotels in major U.S. and European holiday travel destinations (Aspen, St. Barts, Gstaad, Saint Moritz, Cortina); sold on newsstands in major cities and airports across the globe.

For more information, contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p. group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 22 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005

DESIGNER Acct’s Receivable SENIOR TECHNICAL Bookkeeper DESIGNER Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. MERCHANDISER Major women’s moderate No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Leading women’s apparel co. is sportswear co. seeks highly Call CLOTHES-OUT: MERCHANDISING seeking a dynamic designer with organized, detailed individu- Jr. Account Executive (937) 898-2975 ASSISTANT 5+ yrs exp. to join our BOSTON Fast paced outerwear co. in al with 5-8 yrs. exp. Must GIRLSWEAR design staff. Designing for a Midtown seeks A/R book- have a strong background major public updated co. Candi- keeper w/3+yrs exp. in similar in wovens and knits. Great date must have a strong back- position, strong computer verbal & written skills with Danskin, Inc., well estb’d ground in updated knits and skills & bookkeeping abilities. exp. in preparing tech. paks branded active apparel co wovens for pants, skirts and Duties include: factoring, to overseas factories & pre- has an immediate opening for One of America’s most jackets and strong knowledge of billing, cash application, production fittings. Web PDM entry level Account Executive successful private label brands prints and fabrics. Must be able chargebacks, collections & needed. Position in BOSTON. to assist with managing is seeking a highly organized to shop stores for the newest client contact. Must be org, Excellent salary & benefits. accounts nationwide. Strong take-charge individual to trends and have an understanding detail oriented w/excellent Fax resumes to: H.R. retail math & planning assist with merchandising of development time lines. communication skills. 617-332-3260 skills, ability to analyze are and product development. Excellent Salary and Benefits E-mail resume to: essential. Sales & experience Ideal candidate must have Fax Resume HR: [email protected] Production Assistant working w/Sears is preferred. aminimum of 3-5 years’ 617-332-3260 or fax 212-273-1170 Womenswear manufacturer seeks entry Based in NY, some travel. full-time industry experience level production assistant to help private Competitive compensation & with good computer and label coordinator with followup on benefits pckg. EOE/M/F/D/V production issues. Prefer minimum of communications skills. Must 1 year experience in imports. Must be Please email or fax res: be able to work independently computer proficient and detail oriented. and as part of team. Some OFFICE MANAGER / Fax resume to 212-302-3318 [email protected] F: (212) 930-9103 travel required. Great EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT PRODUCTION company, comprehensive Tse, an int’l luxury brand seeks an compensation package. office manager w/ 5+ yrs exp. Position COORDINATOR/ 37th St. 25 windows 7000 ft. $16.00 requires attention to detail, a high level CHILDRENSWEAR For immediate consideration, of interpersonal skills, excellent verbal KNITWEAR 5500 ft. Terrace- Views- $20.00 High-end sweater importer needs a Sales Executive Showrooms Bwy & 7th- sublet- move in please include salary req. and written communication, as well as, the ability to multitask. Proficiency in detail-oriented individual to correspond Prestigious fast growing Prime Manhattan Re Jon 212-268-8043 Director of Production with overseas vendors & handle all Excellent opportunity with the rapidly Microsoft Word, Excel and PowerPoint Fax resume attn: Gail neccessary. Good working environment aspects of production. Import/textile Children’s showroom is seeking growing lifestyle brand, Tory Burch. experience preferred. Proficiency in For Space in Garment Center 212-221-3857 Seeking a seasoned professional to & benefits. Pls fax res: 917-606-6767 an enthusiastic & experienced English, Word/ Excel a must. Sales Executive. Candidate Helmsley-Spear, Inc. oversee all production related issues for Please fax or email resume to: 212-880-0414 Admin Since 1967 the Tory Burch collection. Experienced PATTERNMAKER (212) 575-1781 / must have strong organizational individual must be a team player able FREELANCE [email protected] W-I-N-S-T-O-N to liaise between design, merchandis - and follow-up skills. Computer Specializing in Denim. Ideal for literate a must. Great Benefits Showrooms & Lofts APPAREL STAFFING ing, sales, and Hong Kong office. North Jersey/NYC Area. T: (267) 987-6345 DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Responsibilities include costing, Production Coordinator package. Please e-mail at: BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS purchasing and delivery tracking. Must PATTERNMAKERS KNITWEAR Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Leading private label mfr. seeks exp’d (212) 557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 be detail oriented. Must have knowl- [email protected] ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 edge of garment construction and a KORAMSA prod’n person w/ strong communication Admin strong ability to analyze and solve Major Denim manufacturer skills to work with design & overseas West 34th Street Office Space problems. Familiarity with RLM a is looking to fill the following factories. Must be detail oriented, self Account Exec (NY) 4,500 sq ft Showroom/School VIVIENNE TAM plus. Please submit resume with salary position based in Guatemala. motivated, organized & multi-tasked. Amissy/contemp, L.A. based import co Please fax resume to: (212) 981-1790 considered leader in trend-oriented, ADMIN ASST requirements via email to: HEAD PATTERNMAKERS Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 [email protected] moderate sportswear category seeks an www.dumann.com Individual must be organized, experienced aggressive and enthusiastic person for Fashion Designer Co. seeks organized in people management, negotiations with PRODUCTION indiv. w/min 3 yrs. exp. to handle their N.Y. showroom. Est’d contacts overseas clients, monitor time and action w/ major department stores, excellent various admin duties & able to multi plan and bilingual in Spanish. Knowledge PATTERNMAKER task. Computer literate, Bilingual FABRIC DESIGNER Fast paced womenswear manufacturer communication skills and computer lit Woven Jacquard Cloth Designer based of construction of prototypes and pro- seeks patternmaker with min. 5 years are a must. Fax: 213-748-0706 or E-mail: English/ Chinese required. Fax resume duction required. Pattern knowledge w/c letter to: (212) 398-9695 in NYC, seeks a skilled fabric designer exp. in bias dresses. Prefer background [email protected] to originate designs for fabrication of of all types of denim fabrications and in better to designer market. Must be able Buyer woven jacquard cloth using customized shrinkage application that does not to communicate with factories overseas. distort the clients fit requirements. Min. CAD software; specify weave, pattern, Fax resume to 212-302-3318. 8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant Assistant Buyer color & gauge of thread; send to mill 5years experience in management and Beautifully Renovated, light, window Fast-growing N.Y.C. Retail Co. seeks an with sample request for initial sam- 10 years experience in pattern making. offices. 1728 & 1925 sq ft individual w/good analytical, written, and pling; make revision to pattern until Knowledge of the Gerber system a must Receptionist/ Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 verbal skills; 1-2 years relevant work design is complete, and organize and computer skills (word, excel, outlook, experience, strong work ethic, enthusi- design into thematic collections. Mill etc.). Relocation to Guatemala required. Showroom Coordinator asm for retail business, and ability to travel req., Knowledge of CAD, B.A. in Please send resumes to: Growing Couture Co. is seeking a detail work effectively in a collaborative envi- Textile Design required. 40 hrs/wk, Email: [email protected] oriented individual to coordinate show- ronment. Duties include helping develop M-F, 9a-5p. Please send resume to: Fax: (310) 828.0273 room activities w/sales & press. Excellent assortment plans, maintaining adequate Richloom Fabrics Group communication/ organization skills req’d. stock levels & vendors records. E-mail: Attn: Marvin Karp PLANNER E-mail resume to: [email protected] [email protected] 261 5th Ave, New York, NY 10016 Leading Intimate Apparel Company located in Secaucus, NJ seeks experi- GRAPHIC DESIGNER enced Planner to analyze and forecast Retail Planner CHILDREN’S Create prints using Illustrator & inventory needs for a multi-million dollar MJR. Service Company XLNT growth Account Executive Photoshop. Req’d: Degree & 1 yr. expe- business. Major job functions include: Apparel Staffing LTD. Fax (212)302-1161 Excellent opportunity with the rapidly COMPUTER rience. Resumes to: Attn: J. Fuller growing lifestyle brand, Tory Burch, a Consolidated Children’s Apparel Inc. • Creating and maintaining unit SALES ASSISTANT luxury apparel company with both ARTIST 34 W. 33rd Street, NY, NY 10001 sales/inventory plans by style and by Designer handbag co. seeks energetic, Wholesale and Retail divisions. Tory SWEATERS Major Childrenswear Company seeks a product category detail oriented indiv. w/ 1-2 yrs. related Burch is seeking to fill an account talented & experienced Girls Artist to • Generating and presenting exp. to assist sales staff w/ order proc- executive position for our fast-paced CHINA PRODUCTION AVAILABLE work in Illustrator & Photoshop. Must weekly/monthly sales/inventory reports essing & follow-up. Must be proficient Corporate office. The ideal candidate Good Quality • On-Time Delivery be able to draw flats, create prints, in Excel & Word and possess excellent will have 3+ years experience in Factory Direct • New York Office plaids, appliques and embroideries. • Creating seasonal and yearly financial communication skills. Great opportunity women’s apparel sales, be able to Contact by Fax or E-mail: Min 2 yrs. experience in Girls apparel. plans and forecasts to grow in fast paced environment. immediately handle majors as well as 212-398-7793 / [email protected] Need to see astrongportfolio that in- • Working with production team to Fax resume to Jessica (212) 329-4930 specialty stores, and be a self-starter cludes boards. Good working condi- ensure a smooth flow of product to who thrives in a fast paced and hard tions plus benefits. support sales Sales Assistant working environment. Please submit Email resumes to: • Working with the distribution team Tomkat Couture has an exciting oppty resume with salary requirements via [email protected] to ensure on time shipment of product for a motivated indiv to assist a sr sales email to: [email protected] Hosiery Merchandiser exec of a well est jr activewear co. CUSTOMER SVCE $40K Successful candidate will possess the Excellent growth potential, client con- North New Jersey Co. EDI & AS 400 High Point Design, an industry leader following: tact, schedule appts, assist w/ presenta- [email protected] in the hosiery business, located in tions, strong comm skills, admin duties, NYC is seeking a Hosiery Merchandiser • Minimum 4 years retail or manufac turing planning experience, preferably excellent benefits, great oppty. 40K+. GENERRA PATTERN/SAMPLES DESIGN DIRECTOR $Hi In this position, this candidate will E-mail resume: [email protected] Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast with mid-tier or mass-market retailers EXCELLENT OPPORTUNITY! Junior better line licensing. Great Co! oversee fashion and character hosiery • Superior computer proficiency, work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) lines. A minimum of 7 years experience ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE is required, preferably in Ladies specifically Microsoft Excel SHIPPING CLERK N.Y.C. Corporate Office seeks dynamic, /Childrens hosiery with knowledge of • Merchandise flow and product delivery Designer Sportswear Company. energetic, and dedicated Sales Professio- Designer/Associate nal with experience and relationships Patterns / Samples Leading import Co. seeks individual to factories, vendors, and design capabilities. knowledge UPS experience required. We are seeking a team player who is Fax resumes to: 212-253-7802 with A+ specialty store retailers. Provide Perfect Fit / Fast Service join Design Team for girl’s 7-16 denim • Proven problem-solving skills customer assistance in selecting and Call (212) 398-7700 or line. Must be detail oriented, creative creative, detail oriented and has strong • Strong follow-through skills and analytical & communication skills. purchasing merchandise. Please E-mail (917) 520-5377 & proficient in Adobe Ill & Photoshop. ability to work independently SHOWROOM COORDINATOR your resume to: [email protected] Shld be a team player & able to work Overseas travel is required. • Strong communication skills and NY Ladies Eveningwear Company in a fast paced environment. Pls email Responsibilities will include: line ability to present analytical reports resume: [email protected] seeks exp’d. person to maintain style PATTERNS, SAMPLES, building, retailer presentations of to Management and to Buyers detailing in computer systems, work PRODUCTIONS fashion and trend, time and action • Ability to travel domestically with sales staff on cutting tickets, etc. DESIGNER / PROD-DEVL calendar, and acting as a liaison between FAX RESUME TO (240) 352-4830 All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. sales and production teams. This candi- Excellent salary and benefit pkg. For National Sales Manager Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Est’d ladies Belt Company seeks a designer w/ some exp, to work in a fast date will be responsible for managing immediate consideration, please J&Company seeks a 5+ years experi- paced environment, organizational skills the design staff. forward your resume to: Showroom Sales Assistant enced National Sales Manager who will PATTERNS, SAMPLES, amust.AstrongJunior fashion eye We are a leader in our industry & offer Email: [email protected] be working with sales offices and man- very important. Work from development competitive salaries & comprehensive Fax: 201-392-9608 Denim and Knitted fashion company aging overall sales activities. Must have PRODUCTIONS and follow through assisting in sales. benefits. Please email resume with looking for Sales Assistant. Must have strong relationships with department Full servcie shop to the trade. Great opportunity to grow. Great benefits. salary history and subject header; basic knowledge of garment & fashion. stores nationwide. Candidate will have Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Send resume to [email protected] HPD - Merchandiser and your name to: PR Acct Executive Willing to work hard & learn. Great po- experience in premium denim. Based [email protected] tential to grow with us. Please E-mail out of L.A. Travel is a must. Please visit: DESIGN High Fashion PR Firm searching for resume to: [email protected] www.jandcompany.com We will only contact those candidates Acct. Executive. Min 2-3 yrs fashion Fax or E-mail resume to: PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD TECHNICAL DESIGN for further consideration. agency PR experience required. Main 323-881-3218 / [email protected] High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Equal Opportunity Employer responsibilities incl. managing editorial sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 ASSISTANT Technical Design to $55K requests, monthly activity reports, Strong knits & computer skills Established private label company organize press presentations, writing seeks individual with 2 - 4 yrs experi- New England location press releases. Great work environ- [email protected] ence. Must have strong knowledge of MERCHANDISERS (2) ment. Fax resume to HR 646-336-1401. specs, fit evaluation, construction and *Sr Merchandiser with Background in SALES ASSISTANT grading. Candidate must be highly Bedding/Room Décor & able to give clear/ Tech Spec / Technical Junior Apparel company in midtown organized, detailed oriented and a trend/fabric directions. Great Co! $75-$80K seeks experienced sales assistant. Ideal team player who is able to work with *Merchandising Assist-1yr Industry Production Assistant Designer-Childrenswear candidate must be highly motivated, customer tech departments as well as exp. Tween/Teen/Kids. Work w/Art Looking for Production Assistant with Individual with min. 2 yrs exp. Must be organized, detail oriented and have overseas offices. Knowledge of Excel director. Must be a Super organized experience in women’s knitwear and able to develop new specs, full graded ability to multitask. Proficient with How To Start A Fashion Co, and Illustrator a MUST. self starter w/Creativity. Growth! $45K sweater apparel. Must be highly moti- specs, do fit approvals & comments. computer skills. Excellent problem & PR Workshops Please send resume & salary Call Laurie 212-947-3399 vated and detail oriented. Strong com- Should be able to make & correct paper solving, written and oral communications 212-260-7217 / www.funkylala.com requirements to : (212) 302-1856 or e-mail [email protected] munication with factory and customer. patterns. Computer skills a must. Fax skills required. Please fax resume to www.mshopnyc.com email: [email protected] KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS E-mail: [email protected] Resume: 212-967-7494 Attn: Marylyn 212-840-0500 attn: Peter. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2005 23 WWD.COM New L.A. Designers Look to Get Ahead in Paris

By Rose Apodaca THOMAS WYLDE Thomas Does the world need another rock ’n’ roll-rooted, Wylde’s LOS ANGELES — Fashion week here is less than two weeks away, but two new local skull-studded leather line? Skull designers already attracting plenty of buzz are not waiting, instead presenting their In the case of Thomas Wylde, the new offering by Row debut collections in Paris after successful sales recently in New York. industry vet Paula Thomas, this is not just another caftan. such line. UJEIN At least that’s the consensus among buyers from The days of scoring those coveted sweaters Eugene Ong personally knits are numbered. Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, Tootsies in Houston, Sure, he still wields the needles in realizing each organic shape. Knitted from cot- Linda Dresner in New York and other retailers eager ton floss, cashmere or blends of cotton-silk and stainless steel-viscose, they are avail- to get her buttery lambskin jeans and hardware- able in the spring 2006 collection wholesaling from $130 to $460 and are on view heavy oversized bags, or the slim caftan and whisper- through this weekend in a suite at the Clarion St. James & Albany. thin scarves speckled with a cheeky skull print. But now those are all prototypes. Another custom print is of blood cells, blown out to Ong has teamed with the owners of Idea Generation, a downtown showroom with abstract graphic. partners in Italy, to manufacture the line in factories there. Even before getting to Paris this week, Thomas “I was moved by his aesthetics and sensitivity with these sweaters he made on his adjusted projected orders to nearly $400,000. own,” recalled partner and rep Luciana Brancorsini, adding this is the first time IG has “Believe me, there’s a lot of duplication in the backed a designer. “His work reminds me of a stroke of a painter.” market,” pointed out Sarah Stewart, women’s Yet as interest increased, so did the limits on Ong’s production. “There’s only so buyer for Maxfield and the first to buy the spring much you can make on your own, by hand,” remarked the 27 year old, born in collection out of Thomas’ Venice, Calif., studio. “It’s Hollywood of Philippine immigrants of Chinese descent. “And there’s only so much hard to find a feminine, fresh collection with a rock people will pay for a sweater.” feel. Paula achieved that — and with a particular Ong and his new partners intend to make Ujein a lifestyle concern. Projected first-year point of view and beautiful quality.” sales under the partnership should reach $1 An emphasis on craftsmanship is obvious throughout Thomas Wylde, which has a million, said Brancorsini. Already slated for fall Eugene Ong with a model. classic bent despite its rock sensibility. A chocolate leather Victorian bolero with a 2006 is men’s and a secondary bridge collection. wide satin bow can pair as easily with skinny, long-legged leather pants as with a gown. It was in Denmark that Ong discovered knit- Spring’s Black Summer group wholesales from $57 for edgy, ultrathin T-shirts to $1,315 ting. There in 1999 on a foreign studies program for tailored leather jackets. for his architecture degree from California Poly Thomas is showing the collection through Tuesday at The Regina Hotel. The San Luis Obispo, Ong learned the craft from the label is named for her Welsh grandfather Robert Thomas and great-grandmum mother of his host family, and the hobby stuck. Catherine Wylde. After hours as head of the model shop for The 40-year-old designer, who looks more Californian than British, has a storied ré- an architecture firm, Ong would knit and sumé spanning two decades. During her early modeling years, she became friends with knit. In 2002, he left the day job and began Julien Macdonald, a relationship that led from muse to right hand as Thomas served as selling scarves and sweaters to a couple of show producer, sales rep and VIP liaison all the way to the designer’s appointment at this city’s edgier shops, Aero & Co. and Xin, Givenchy. In 2001, she partnered with Stefano Guerriero on two well-received collec- under the label Ujein — a play on his first tions; two years later she was back in Los Angeles, a city she popped in and out of over name. Ong approaches knitting as a puzzle: the years, she said, “whenever I needed grounding.” “How to take rectangular strips and turn A lap pool and lawn separates the studio and modern home she shares with her them into something that tapers the body. teen daughter, Harley, and it’s all just a stone’s throw from the workplace of her long- “Knitting is a little more three-dimensional, time friend, British jewelry designer Tom Binns. Most recently, Thomas styled com- something I can manipulate,” he adds. “I don’t mercials and guided designer Jenni Kayne through her first three seasons. know how to sew, so this allowed me to shape “But it was time,” said Thomas of her decision to finally do her own line. Last things into whatever I want.” spring, she met a backer: Houston socialite Valerie Sarofim. So busy has Thomas be- Maxfield and Weathervane here, and come that she had to turn down an offer from friend Ridley Scott to wardrobe “A Blake in Chicago have written orders. Ujein Good Year,” now in production and starring Russell Crowe. “I was gutted. But three

is also represented in Milan at Vispa Teresa. JEREMY GOLDBERG PHOTO BY months in the South of France with all these orders coming in? Impossible!”

the punitive damage award is now out of the case, the judge has yet to rule on the remaining claims for resti- U.S. Court Drops $700M Artemis Sanction tution or other equitable relief, which would be paid to the commissioner. LOS ANGELES — U.S. District Judge Howard Matz on State insurance commissioner John Garamendi sued In July, the judge approved a $600 million settlement Wednesday dropped the $700 million sanction placed in Credit Lyonnais in 1999, alleging the bank used front the French government had reached on behalf of Credit July against Artemis, the Paris-based holding company companies to buy the failed insurance business and its Lyonnais with California insurance regulators. The jury in controlled by François Pinault, the French tycoon who junk-bond portfolio in the early Nineties. Pinault May cleared Pinault personally of any wrongdoing in the controls Gucci Group through his PPR conglomerate. reaped huge profits from the sale of the bonds. case, but found Artemis liable of conspiracy in the way in Both Pinault and Artemis were accused of breaking “This order addresses only the question of whether which the transaction was conducted. However, in July a California law when they purchased Executive Life’s plaintiff John Garamendi is entitled to the judgment he Los Angeles jury said Artemis had to pay $700 million in valuable junk-bond portfolio from French bank Credit seeks, which would include the $700 million punitive punitive damages for its part in acquiring the Executive Lyonnais in the Nineties. At the time, California for- damages award. He is not,” said Matz in the order. Life assets from Credit Lyonnais. bade banks from owning insurance firms. James Clark, an attorney for Pinault, said that while — Michelle Dalton Tyree

Catalog Salesperson Have very strong re-order mail Asst. Mgrs./Sales Pro’s order/catalogue line. Missy & Plus High-end children’s & ladies designer sizes, well priced. Commission based. clothing company from London seeks E-mail: [email protected] qualified, motivated & dynamic retail Asst. Managers & Sales Professionals for new boutique uptown on Madison Ave, NYC. Full & part-time considered. SWEATERS Must have computer knowledge, en- Manufacturer of women’s handloomed thusiasm, friendly disposition, excellent sweaters is in need of Sales Reps in customer service & be a team player. the L.A. and Atlanta areas. Price point Please fax resume to: (212) 534-7277 is from $60.00 - $150.00. Fax or E-mail to: or E-mail: [email protected] 718-803-1316 / [email protected] AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPOR ES eitrdSrieMr/rdmr fCto noprtd Cotton Incor © Mark/Trademark Registered Service of Cotton Incorporated. ® TERS.

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