Nude Awakening
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
To The Inside: OLSEN TWINS BUILD GLOBAL EMPIRE/18-19 p Pg. 17 N.Y. SpringWWD C Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 6, 2005• $2.00 List olle ctio WWDTHURSDAY ns Sportswear Nude Awakening PARIS — With his spring collection for Christian Dior, John Galliano did a surprising about-face, embracing the notion of showing overtly commercial, rather than simply fanciful, clothes on the runway. The results were relatively simple, nude-toned clothes, overlaid with black lace, with the construction details outlined in piping. Here, one of his stylish, corset-detailed looks. For more, see pages 6 to 11. Bravo to Check Out: Burberry CEO Will Exit Company in July 2006 By WWD Staff NEW YORK — Rose Marie Bravo plans to bid ta-ta to Burberry Group plc next July. The American will not renew her contract as chief executive officer when it expires in nine months, sources close to the British luxury brand said Wednesday. Her departure will come after Burberry is fully demerged from Great Universal Stores, which currently owns 66 percent of the company. G.U.S. said in May the demerger is expected to be completed some time this year. Burberry had a partial flotation on the London Stock Exchange in 2002. See Bravo, Page12 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAYWWD.COM Sportswear FASHION ™ Strong collections from Dior, Lagerfeld Gallery and Comme des Garçons 6 kept the Paris runways humming as the season continued. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Sources said Rose Marie Bravo, chief executive officer of Burberry FALLING FOR CORDUROY 1 Worldwide, will leave the company when her contract is up in July. A Wale of a Season Michelle Wie, the 15-year-old golf whiz, confirmed Wednesday that she has 3 gone professional and signed endorsement deals with Nike and Sony. For many women, the arrival of cooler finding something new to like about the fabric this Seventeen editor in chief Atoosa Rubenstein will get her first major national weather means one thing: there’s a new crop of season. 3 TV exposure this month when reality series “Miss Seventeen” begins airing. corduroy to purchase. And this season doesn’t “I guess my view of corduroy has always been EYE: Actress Ludivine Sagnier, 26, represents the new cool mood in French disappoint. Fall’s favorite fabric is back, softer and stuck back in the corduroy of my teens—you know, 4 film; An ecologically friendly Hollywood party. more comfortable than ever, in a range of casual very stiff, uncomfortable corduroy pants,” says BEAT: Stacey Bendet knows women look to her brand Alice + Olivia for pants, trousers, skirts, shrunken Renee, a 39-year-old software 13 great-fitting pants, so she’s launching a pants-only line for spring retailing. jackets and fitted blazers. executive in New York. “But the DENIM DISH: Big Sway survives in the Big Easy; Brown Label cleans up; “Corduroy as a fabrication has looks that are out there now are Serving Earnest Sewn; Pop-star pinups; Denim’s role models. always been a fall and winter completely different; they’re soft 14 staple,” affirms Sean Krebs, a and plush, with a little bit of ACTIVE: Golfwear is getting a fashion lift from Fila and Puma, which are spokesperson for Gap. “It’s really stretch. I’ve even found some really 16 swinging into the category for spring with trend-driven and directional lines. the silhouettes and colors that will nice corduroy trousers that I would Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen are trading their past as child actors for a future be updated from year to year.” feel comfortable wearing to work.” 18 as businesswomen, building a global lifestyle and entertainment firm. For fall, Gap is featuring Corduroy at the office? Classified Advertisements ..................................................................22-23 Absolutely. That might have been fine-wale cords in fitted blazers, To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is tailored trousers and A-line skirts, considered a fashion faux pas a [email protected], using the individual’s name. all in rich, autumnal shades like few years ago, but it’s acceptable WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 chocolate brown, green, grape, now, partly because corduroy has FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. and teal. become more sophisticated, at the VOLUME 190, NO. 74. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional “Corduroy is extremely impor- same time that workplaces in issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. tant for us, and we’ve been selling it general have become more casual PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. “Corduroy is extremely Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, since August,” says Diana Salen, important for us. We’ve been and open. After all, as Cotton Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice co-owner of Diana & Jeffries, a Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief selling it since August.” Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice clothing boutique with two — Diana Salen found, 34% of women describe Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Manhattan locations. “Our their work attire as “business-like Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Diana & Jeffries Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: customer loves corduroy. We’ve with freedom,” while 25% said DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box been selling tons of corduroy pants and blazers, and they wear casual clothes to work. In addition, 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; we’ve been reordering.” 89.8% of respondents said that their office had a or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed casual dress policy year-round. on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. Salen carries mainly corduroy jean-style pants All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. from Cambio and Red Engine, as well as shrunken Certainly, pieces such as a well-cut corduroy First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint corduroy blazers, cord jeans and trousers from blazer can help to dress up an outfit. As Banana requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Theory. This season, she’s featuring basic shades Republic’s Brunialti notes, “It’s not about a full-on Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to such as dark green, brown and black, with one or suit for a large part of our customer base, so for a receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615- two pieces in teal; winter-white corduroy jeans have sportswear approach it’s nice to be able to break 5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED already sold out. things up a bit with a little cord jacket.” MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND As Salen sees it, corduroy is the perfect cold-weather “Corduroy looks great for the office when cut TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED fabric. “People like corduroy into a blazer or a trouser,” TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE because when it gets cold Is your office’s casual dress policy affirms Krebs at Gap. “It’s ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. out, it’s an extremely warm seasonal or year-round? especially appropriate in a fabric,” she says. “Jeans are 2004 2005 Change finer wale, because that tends great, but with cords, you to look more polished and Year-Round 86.3% 89.8% +3.5 In Brief have a great jean-like pant Seasonal 12.7% 10.2% -2.5 professional.” that’s casual and extremely And that, of course, brings up warm.