The Leading Celebrity BrandsInside: Pg. 10 COVER GIRL INKS BARRYMORE/3 VENDORS GO RETAIL/8 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • April 12, 2007 • $2.00 List Sportswear Say It Loud Shy girls, take a hike. Fall’s extroverted side arrives with a blast of bold colors, wild prints and quirky motifs — all the better when piled on in layers. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Big Deal for Barneys: Jones Said Near Sale Of the Upscale Retailer By Miles Socha and Vicki M. Young

.COM; FASHION ASSISTANT: CAMERON KERSHAW; STYLED BY DAVID YASSKY DAVID STYLED BY CAMERON KERSHAW; ASSISTANT: .COM; FASHION NEW YORK — Barneys New York could soon come under foreign ownership. According to market sources here and overseas, a private equity fund linked to the royal family of Qatar appears to be the front-runner in the bidding for Barneys, with an offer of more than $1 Akademiks’ jacket, shorts from billion. Although any deal might still fall DKNY Jeans Juniors, Rubber Doll’s sweater, justsweet’s turtleneck and apart, a sale could be announced in the 10 Feet’s leggings. Candie’s shoes; next few days, a number of sources in Alter Ego jewelry. Photographed in front of the Christopher Tanner the finance and retail sectors said. exhibit at the Pavel Zoubok Gallery. The fund is believed to have eclipsed offers from potential strategic buyers such as Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom, both of which considered the acquisition See Barneys, Page 13 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: ANDRESSA/SUPREME; HAIR BY DARIA WRIGHT AND MAKEUP BY ANTHEA KING, BOTH AT ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO ANTHEA KING, BOTH AT ERICKSEN; MODEL: DARIA WRIGHT AND MAKEUP BY ANDRESSA/SUPREME; KYLE HAIR BY PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL A private equity fund linked to the royal family of Qatar is said to be the ™ 1 front-runner in bidding for Barneys, with an offer of more than $1 billion. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based Target Stores’ chairman and ceo Robert Ulrich said the retailer plans to on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 3 expand into overseas markets such as India and China within a decade. Drew Barrymore is the new model and spokeswoman for Cover Girl BLUE CHIPS 3 cosmetics, the company said at a Los Angeles press conference. EYE: Power players descended on the Grill Room for a cocktail party Denim Figures Strategically in Women’s Fashion Portfolios 4 honoring A. Alfred Taubman and his new book, “Threshold Resistance.” Jeans are such a hot commodity today that consumer. According to the Monitor, 81 percent of FASHION: Designers are channeling a little bit of Raggedy Ann and Pippi many women surely consider their blue jeans the female consumers said that price was an important 6 Longstocking with a playful mix of quirky, eclectic looks for fall. blue chip stocks of their fashion portfolios. The high consideration in her denim purchases. The Wholesalers VF Corp., Liz Claiborne, Jones Apparel Group and Kellwood interest in denim is clearly reflected in the Cotton denim-buying consumer appears to be beating the 8 now see direct-to-consumer sales as a bigger part of their businesses. ™ Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor . On average, market; although the typical female respondent BEAT: Some feel the celebrity-as-designer is losing its luster, but this fall female respondents to the survey told the Monitor that she was 11 will see Sarah Jessica Parker, Paris Hilton and Sienna Miller join the fray. stated that they wear denim four willing to pay as much as $37 DENIM: Denim is a key ingredient at LFT Lifestyle Fashion Terminal, the days a week and own 16 denim for a pair of good-fitting jeans, 12 large fashion emporium in Victory Park in downtown Dallas. garments; half of which are jeans. she actually paid an average “Women are investing in jeans price of $26. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 14-15 because they can wear them While most women put great To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. to work and on the weekend. stock in the value/price equation [email protected], using the individual’s name. Today, denim even has a place when purchasing denim, there WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT in the boardroom in some are denim fashionistas, or major ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. environments,” offers Chad investors in the category, who VOLUME 193, NO. 78. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three Jackson, marketing manager are less concerned with price additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance for Evisu, a twenty-year-old and more interested in brand Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive denim label. “There are so many name. “If you find a pair that Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human fits, washes and variations that looks really good and flatters your Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return it’s easy to see why women buy body type, you are willing to undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: so many pairs.” spend for it,” confirms Rashal, SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA “When it comes to jeans, there the online authority. 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE “Women are investing in jeans INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit really is something for everyone,” That may explain the virtual www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new promises Gili Rashal, founder and because they wear them to work explosion of the premium subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production and on the weekend.” correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, editor-in-chief of The Tip Jar, an denim market in recent years. please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other online fashion resource. “Even — Chad Jackson, According to NPD Fashionworld Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list marketing manager, Evisu available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. though there are so many denim AccuPanel data, the average price If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, lines and variations in cut, there of premium denim jeans, those OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, is a perfect fit for every woman. Fit is clearly the priced $60 and above, reached an all time high BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR most important component of good denim. I of $93 in 2005. That figure did dip slightly in CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR think that once you find one jean that you like, 2006 to $88, but the premium denim market is DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY try another style in that brand; the fit should be still steadily building momentum. In 2006, jeans A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. consistent throughout the line.” priced $60 and above accounted for 4 percent of Fit is particularly important to those women the market, up from 3 percent in 2005. investing in premium and elite premium denim. “I definitely expect the market to get even A 2005 survey on premium denim conducted by stronger as denim continues to mature and In Brief Cotton Incorporated reveals that 85 percent of diversify,” affirms Jackson from Evisu. “There is female respondents such innovation in styles, ● HERRERA RISES TO THE TOP: Carolina Herrera tops the list viewed fit as the most fits, materials, washes and Women’s Feelings About Denim of Modern Bride’s 25 leading trendsetters this year. Renowned important aspect of techniques that we will chef Daniel Boulud and high-fl ying British entrepreneur Sir blue jeans. 58.9% see the demand rise. Richard Branson will also be toasted at the magazine’s May 60% The focus on fit is 05Q4 There are also changing 9 awards ceremony at the New York Palace Hotel. Branson’s 50.7% 06Q4 Virgin Galactic is testing fl ights just out of the Earth’s atmo- precisely why Zafu. 50% social conditions that com was born, explains see jeans becoming sphere — new territory for more adventuresome brides-to- 40% be. J. Crew’s senior vice president of women’s design, Jenna Rob Holloway, founder acceptable wear for Lyons, also made the cut on this year’s list by spearheading the of the site. “Denim 30% almost any occasion, as brand’s bridal launch. Designers Lela Rose and Nicole Miller can feel like a risky 18.8% 19.2% they continue to move will be among those doling out the awards. Wedding scene set- 20% investment. But since it’s beyond its casual and ter Antony Todd, celebrity cinematographer Paul Korver, wed- a garment that is critical 10% work wear status.” ding planner Mary Micucci, DJ Donna D’Cruz, culinary queen to a woman’s closet or 2.9% 2.9% Denim is also Abigail Kirsch and makeup artist Kimara Ahnert will also be 0% honored. Chris Madden, who designs a home collection for J.C. portfolio of clothing, Enjoy Wearing Have Some Denim Denim Not for Me gaining ground in Denim Penney, one of the event sponsors, will present Modern Bride’s she needs to get it right. the international fi rst Loving Spirit Award to the I Do Foundation, an organiza- We consider ourselves marketplace. tion that encourages engaged couples to line up wedding-re- the Charles Schwab of the denim community; we According to the Global Lifestyle Monitor, lated charitable giving. The Bacon Brothers, aka Kevin and help guide the denim investor through hundreds of 94 percent of global consumers owned at Michael Bacon, will play. stocks to help her make the right decision.” least one piece of denim. The survey reveals Answer a quick eight questions and Zafu.com will that next to U.S. consumers, those in Europe ● J&J IN CHINA: Johnson & Johnson has acquired the Chinese immediately recommend a handful of brands and skin care firm Dabao for 2.3 billion yuan, or almost $300 million and South America own the most jeans. at current exchange rates, according to news reports in China. exact cuts for an individual. Holloway adds, “We’ve Three in five of these global consumers said The deal was said to have been made on March 27. Dabao, done all the work and research to give a woman the that they liked wearing denim because they liked which makes value to midpriced items, will maintain its pro- best advice on buying denim; 94 percent of women the feel of cotton. prietary brand, a published report said. Johnson & Johnson who come back to the site say that the jeans we “There is no doubt that denim holds great appeal spokesman Jeffrey Leebaw said the company “does not com- recommended fit them perfectly.” for more and more women,” Holloway from Zafu. ment on speculative reports.” “Fit is such an important issue that when women com says. “Buy a pair you love and you can expect a find a great fit with us, they are just so loyal,” adds great return on your investment.” June Beckstead, vice president of apparel design for This story is one in a series of articles based on find- Sears Holdings. “The other important issue is value, ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ Clarifi cations and they look for quality, like pocket stitching. We tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these Marisa Miller is outreach coordinator for the Global Green have also found that add-ons, like a belt or a little pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it Foundation, a nonprofit group focused on eco-friendly living and bling, which both our K-Mart and Sears stores relates to the American consumer and her attitudes education. The name of the organization was incomplete in a carry, sell very well. This consumer knows she can and behavior regarding clothing, story on page 27, WWD Green section II, Tuesday. ● ● ● find great value at a better price.” appearance, fashion, fiber selection and Value clearly resonates with today’s female Usher’s fragrance deal with Liz Claiborne Cosmetics was bro- many other timely, relevant subjects. kered by the Icon Licensing Group. That information was unavail- able at press time. The story appeared on April 6, page 8. WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2007 3 WWD.COM Barrymore Becomes a Cover Girl Target Sees Growth Abroad By Rachel Brown Drew Within the Next 10 Years Barrymore LOS ANGELES — Growing up, Drew Barrymore plastered her wall with pictures of Cheryl Tiegs, By Katherine Bowers percent, in line with analysts’ Carol Alt and Christie Brinkley. Now, she joins expectations and driven by an them in the pantheon of Cover Girls. arget Stores plans to expand early Easter holiday. However, The Procter & Gamble-owned brand announced Tinto fast-growing overseas the retailer expects April comps Wednesday that it has signed the 32-year-old ac- markets such as India and China to be off 2 percent to 4 percent tress to a multiyear deal to be the face of its cos- within a decade, but sees no because of the loss of the holi- metics in national print and television advertising JOHN SCIULLI/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY advantage to being fi rst, chair- day in the reporting period. campaigns that will break in January. Barrymore man and chief executive offi cer Apparel and soft goods ac- will take a leading role in producing the television Robert Ulrich said Wednesday. count for 22 percent of annu- campaign as its co-creative director. Speaking at a presenta- al sales, or about $13 billion, “I love being involved creatively in everything tion to financial analysts in chief fi nancial offi cer Douglas I do. I am not passive,” Barrymore said during Minneapolis, Ulrich said “it Scovanner said. a press conference Wednesday morning here. makes sense’’ to enter major Target has been growing “Whether I am fi lming a documentary or working areas like India or China “fi ve high-margin sales of apparel and on a makeup campaign or producing movies, it is to 10 years down the road, when electronics at roughly 4 percent all a venue for me to express my creativity.” [the marketplace] will be more per year, he said. Commodity Barrymore joins Queen Latifah, Keri Russell, affluent and better educated, sales have been gaining at twice Rihanna and Molly Sims in the current stable of and will be more in synch with that rate, leading some analysts Cover Girl faces. Although Barrymore has worked our strategy.” to question Target executives for Lancôme in the past, she has typically avoided Target, which now has about about how they intend to main- commercial campaigns and said she signed on 1,500 U.S. stores and $59 billion tain overall gross margin rate. with Cover Girl because of the brand’s heritage in annual revenue, expects to “Whether it’s ladies’ ap- and outlook. operate 2,000 stores that gener- parel or intimate apparel, “Not only do I love their products and they are ate $100 billion by 2011, Ulrich we’re going to push the enve- so smart about what they are doing, but their ac- said, adding that having the lope slowly but surely to bring cessibility and their philosophy is really what in- Minneapolis retailer’s entire our customer along into bet- spired me,” said Barrymore. “Being true to your- management team focused on ter goods,” company president self is the most important thing.” the U.S. had been a “strategic Gregg Steinhafel said. Esi Eggleston Bracey, vice president and gen- advantage.” The retailer will launch an eral manager of Cover Girl Cosmetics in North America, said during a post-press conference interview that Cover Girl had long considered Whether it’s ladies’ apparel or intimate Barrymore for its advertising. She explained that Cover Girl was drawn to Barrymore’s genuine per- “apparel, we’re going to push the envelope sonality and her broad following. “If you think about movies that she has done, slowly but surely to bring our customer she has a nice appeal to teenagers, which is im- portant for us, but she is not just limited to teen- along into better goods. agers,” said Eggleston Bracey. “Cover Girl speaks ” to the diversity of women and Drew does that.” — Gregg Steinhafel, Target Corp. While Eggleston Bracey would not divulge the size and scope of Cover Girl’s contract with Ulrich said Target had con- exclusive handbag collection Barrymore, industry sources Prior to working with sidered expanding into Canada by designer Devi Kroell this estimated that the actor could P&G, Cardello was vice for about a decade, but prob- year. In May, Paco Rabanne de- be earning from $1 million to president of central mar- ably would not move unless a signer Patrick Robinson will be $2 million a year as the face BEAUTY BEAT keting on the Dunhill and signifi cant block of stores be- Go International’s featured de- of the brand. Ellen Tracy fragrances with came available. signer. Target also showed the Wearing a canary yellow Carolina Herrera dress Cosmopolitan Cosmetics, the fi ne fragrances divi- Target’s strong comparable debut of a television spot featur- and pea green Christian Louboutin heels, Barrymore sion of Wella AG. sales growth relative to rival ing Robinson talking about his exhibited her playfulness during the press con- “Joanne brings a wealth of experience to Wal-Mart Stores Inc., and its Greek-inspired collection. ference by joking that the dress formed a her role, including exceptional leader- ability to convince upscale con- Target recently shaved seven “marsupial pouch” when she sat. ship skills and a vast knowledge of sumers to purchase high-margin weeks off its apparel lead time Even fi ve years ago, she confi d- the global marketplace,” Robert apparel, decor and electronics as part of an overhaul of its ed, she might not have been com- Rumsby, Gemini’s chief operat- have made Target a Wall Street sourcing, merchandising and fortable enough with herself to ing offi cer, said in a statement. favorite. Wal-Mart, the world’s design processes. The company become part of the Cover Girl “We are delighted she has largest retailer, has struggled expects similar benefits from lineage. “Your 20s are about joined our team and believe to persuade customers to buy applying these new processes to trying everything and working she will be instrumental in higher-priced apparel. its men’s, kids’ and intimate ap- really hard to establish what leading the expansion of Target’s March sales in stores parel programs during the com- you want to do in your life,” Gemini as new brands are open at least a year rose 12 ing months. said Barrymore, who has gone added and new initiatives from childhood to adulthood undertaken.” in the movie business, start- Joanne Gemini markets fragrances ing with 1982’s “E.T. the Extra- Cardello under the Tommy Bahama and Terrestrial.” “Your 30s is the time Kiss brands. It is set to introduce Puma Shares Again on the Rise to take all of that research and ex- an Izod scent for men next year. perience and education and really — Michelle Edgar By Emilie Marsh ecutive offi cer, has nixed the truly apply it to taking your whole life idea of a bidding war for the higher.” PARIS — Puma’s stock rose again remaining shares in Puma, Photographer Michael Thompson shot the print Foundation Event Marks 15 Years on Wednesday, following PPR’s maintaining his fi rm’s offer is campaign with Barrymore for Cover Girl over the purchase of a controlling stake. “fi rm and defi nitive.” weekend here. Linda Cantello and Orlando Pita PARIS — Hundreds of beauty executives crowded The German sports brand’s During Puma’s annual share- handled the makeup and hair, respectively. The into Paris’ chamber of commerce Thursday to cel- shares went up 1.9 percent to holders’ meeting Wednesday details of the TV campaign are still being ham- ebrate France’s Fragrance Foundation’s 15th anni- close at 350.42 euros, or $467.81 in Nuremberg, Jochen Zeitz, mered out, and Barrymore is busy vetting poten- versary and to attend its annual award ceremony at current exchange, on the chairman and chief executive tial directors. for France’s winning scents of 2006. Frankfurt Stock Exchange. The offi cer, endorsed the deal with “How do I honor the tradition of Cover Girl and The French foundation’s president, Catherine boost came after a 9 percent PPR, characterizing the offer still bring myself?” Barrymore said she asked her- Disdet, looked back over a decade and a half of spike on Tuesday that prompt- as fair and in the best interests self before doing the print campaign. “It is a tone winners, including perennial bestsellers such ed analysts to suggest PPR’s 5.3 of the company. and a feeling,” she said in an interview following as L’Eau d’Issey by Parfums Issey Miyake, Lolita billion euro, or $7.07 billion, Zeitz is slated to host a press the press conference. “They [the ads] look slightly Lempicka’s signature scent and J’adore by offer to buyout the rest of the conference today to discuss the back to the past, but they are very modern.” Parfums Christian Dior. shares undervalues Puma. PPR deal. Among last year’s success stories, announced The French retail and luxury On Wednesday, during an by French TV presenter Isabelle Jiordano, were conglomerate, which owns pres- interview with a German tele- Gemini Taps Joanne Cardello Nina by Parfums Nina Ricci, which won best wom- tige brands, including Gucci and vision channel, Zeitz hinted he en’s scent. Terre d’Hermès by Hermès Parfums Yves Saint Laurent, purchased a would not rule out other offers. NEW YORK — Gemini Cosmetics has named picked up awards for best men’s scent, best adver- 27.1 percent stake in Puma and But market sources downplayed Joanne Cardello vice president of marketing. tising for a men’s scent and best bottle design. planned to offer 330 euros, or the likelihood of a bid from Cardello, who took her new post on Friday, In the women’s category, Kenzo Amour by $440.55, per remaining share. rival sporting goods giant Nike. was previously vice president of creative market- Parfums Kenzo won for best advertising as well as Analysts speculated there PPR shares dipped 2.1 per- ing at P&G Prestige Products, where she oversaw best bottle design, and Giorgio Armani Parfums’ might be a higher counter offer, cent Wednesday to close at the creation of global fragrance, packaging de- Cuir Amethyste was named best fragrance in se- but François-Henri Pinault, 130.30 euros, or $173.95, on the sign and advertising concepts for the Dunhill and lective distribution in France. PPR’S chairman and chief ex- Paris Bourse. Montblanc brands. — Ellen Groves 4 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2007 WWD.COM FIT FOR A QUEEN allet-inspired looks were all the rage on certain spring Brunways, like those at Michael Kors and Vera Wang. But unlike those fashion designers, Martin Pakledinaz had the unique challenge of concocting pieces for “The Pirate Queen,” now at New York’s Hilton Theatre, which had to accommodate wearers who might break into raucous displays of Irish step dancing at any moment. “We have to believe that they live in this clothing,” explains Pakledinaz of his intricate but motion-friendly designs. “The Pirate Queen,” from the creators of that other step-dancing sensation “Riverdance,” tells the story of 16th-century Ireland’s Grania (Grace) O’Malley, a Gaelic chieftain’s daughter who sails, swashbuckles, champions her people’s freedom and even parleys with Queen Elizabeth I. Covering more than 10 years of Grace’s life as she makes the Dixon Boardman, Judy Taubman in Michael Kay Couture, transitions from pirate to wife, clan leader, mother, prisoner A. Alfred Taubman and Tiffany Dubin in Zac Posen. and revolutionary, the show proved no simple sartorial feat. Particularly since the design team chose to forgo makeup as an ageing device. “It was really dependent on the clothing to show that she was changing into a mature woman Hot Type and leader,” says Pakledinaz, who has The Four Seasons has long been a mega lunch won Tony Awards for watering hole, but Tuesday night, any real power his work on “Kiss Me player worth his or her weight in headlines descended Kate,” “Thoroughly upon the Grill Room for a cocktail party hosted by Modern Millie” and Dixon and Arriana Boardman in honor of A. Alfred “The Pajama Game.” Nina Griscom in Ta u b m a n and his new book, “Threshold Resistance.” “You have to build up Yves Saint Laurent. And apparently, the memoir, which chronicles in the audience that, Taubman’s rise to fi nancial and business success and one way or another, his subsequent fall (including a frank description of his time in she’s going to meet prison after the Sotheby’s scandal), is such a hot commodity that Elizabeth.” even one of the evening’s hosts couldn’t get her hands on a copy. To express the “I haven’t read it yet — I can’t fi nd one!” laughed Boardman. deep historical “I’m dying to read it, but they just keep disappearing.” connection of the Henry Kissinger, Dominick Dunne, Leonard Lauder, Donald Irish to their land, the and Melania Trump, Bob Colacello, Arnold Scaasi, Mica Ertegun, costume designer had Annette and Oscar de la Renta and Jamee Gregory fought computerized images their way through the packed room to congratulate the fi rst- of natural materials Jamee time author. Flanked by his wife, Judy, and his stepdaughter, such as bark, stones Gregory Tiffany Dubin, the resilient Taubman was being trailed by a and sand printed in Prada. crew from CBS TV, which is doing a documentary on him. onto the fabrics. Even “I’ve been friends with Alfred for many years. He helped Grace’s prison shift get my two daughters into college and introduced me to features a pattern of my wife, Arriana,” said Boardman, as he addressed the waves. The men have crowd midway through the evening. As for Taubman, he their fun, too. One of Grace O’Malley in “The Pirate Queen.” rose to give a clever speech, the most commanding thanking all in attendance, characters, as well as his publishers. Dubhdara, Grace’s father, and his fellow clansmen wear richly “For all of you who don’t embroidered quilted doublets and custom lace-up boots with see your names in the book, fi berglass taps. please don’t blame me,” While technically involved, these pared-down looks provide joked Taubman. “Blame a stark contrast to the opulent bejeweled gowns of the Virgin HarperCollins.” Those who Queen. Taking inspiration from such now-iconic fi lms as did make the cut include “Shakespeare in Love” and “Elizabeth,” as well as from his own Pauline Pitt and To m m y library of almost 4,000 art and costume books, Pakledinaz created Kempner, whom Taubman stunning, formal looks for Elizabeth I and her English court. swipes at in the book’s Indeed, the designer’s career in costuming has covered acknowledgements as “the only hundreds of years of style, with no signs of stopping. He is two people nasty enough to publicly currently designing looks for the Broadway revival of “Grease” express their dislike for me during in August, “Gypsy” at City Center this summer and the the most trying days of my life — for Metropolitan Opera’s fall production of “Iphigénie en Tauride.” their unintended inspiration.” Arriana However, those who might think Pakledinaz is stuck in Judy Taubman was less Boardman a schizophrenic fashion history warp, take note: One of his modest about her husband’s in Badgley favorite pieces from “Pirate Queen” is the simple, blue wrap accomplishment. Mischka. dress Grace wears when she meets the Queen. Oscar and “I feel like I’m married “This is my Donna Karan Elizabethan dress,” quips Pakledinaz. Mica Annette de to Hemingway,” she joked as she — Cordelia Johnson Ertegun la Renta greeted friends.

Mark success as a chef is to get on television. (It was recently reported the Bittman very visible de Laurentiis may be up for a position hosting the fourth hour of “Today.”) Bittman explains: “It’s not a question of becoming more Twice Bitten successful; it’s a question of doing things that are interesting.” And over hanks to the foodie culture craze, the landscape is populated with the course of taping, he’s become more at ease seeing himself on-screen. Tmolecular gastronomists, gastropubs and now gastrologues, the new “I’m more comfortable with myself as a talent or an actor,” he says. “But moniker for foodie travelogues. The newest cook to throw his toque into I sort of use ‘talent’ ironically.” that ring is Mark Bittman, whose latest series, “The Best Recipes in the Even so, it seems he’s caught the bug. Bittman’s already begun World With Mark Bittman,” premiered on PBS Monday night. scouting locations for his next program, a 26-part PBS series on Spain Offscreen, the curmudgeonly Bittman has made a name for himself that will be cohosted by Italian chef Mario Batali and an unnamed with 1998’s “How to Cook Everything” (a second edition is coming out Hollywood star. He’s also thinking of pitching a new show “that’s soon) and writing “The Minimalist” column for The New York Times. Now, completely unrelated” to the Food Network. “Best Recipes,” his second TV stint, follows the journalist on adventures Lately, Bittman’s extracurricular work has been eclipsed by the that include making seafood paella at a hole-in-the-wall in Valencia, remarkable aftermath to a piece he published in the Times about Sullivan Spain, and touring London’s famed Smithfi eld Market for meat. Street Bakery owner Jim Lahey and his “no-knead bread.” The story and The “follow me as I discover local culinary treasures” trail is one its accompanying recipe were syndicated across the country and the new that’s been trod by such personalities as Anthony Bourdain (“No cooking method so ignited the blogosphere that other newspapers wrote Reservations”), Giada de Laurentiis (“Giada’s Weekend Getaways”) and follow-up stories. Headlines read: “How New Recipe May Be the Best even Rachael Ray, who explores a city on “$40 a Day.” But Bittman, of Thing Since Sliced Bread,” “No-Knead Bread Fires Up Bakers” and “How course, insists he will be delivering something new to a hungry audience. to Make the Bread Everyone’s Talking About.” “I know Tony Bourdain and we’re not very much like each other except we’re both tall. “The reaction was amazing. A million people are interested in food; when I was young, His attitude is different from my attitude,” he says, sitting in the lobby of the Mandarin it was 5,000,” Bittman says. “That piece was number one on the ‘Most e-mailed’ list for Oriental Hotel. “It’s like saying to two novelists, ‘Oh, you’re both writing about marriage. a week. That’s never happened with a food story. But I’d be much happier if I could teach How come?’ It’s because they have different approaches.” these people how to make vegetable soup.” Nevertheless, one can’t help but wonder if, these days, the only way to commercial — Emily Holt PARTY PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; BITTMAN BY GEORGE CHINSEE; “PIRATE QUEEN” BY JOAN MARCUS QUEEN” BY STEVE EICHNER; BITTMAN GEORGE CHINSEE; “PIRATE PHOTOS BY BY PARTY SECTION II WWDDenim In Depth 5th Annual Issue PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER BY DAVID PHOTO

Section II: May 24 Close: May 8 Only WWD has the power and authority to bring you the most anticipated denim coverage in the industry, WWD Denim in Depth. The entire industry has been waiting for this issue – don’t miss the opportunity to place your brand front and center.

WWDStyle Starts Here™ For more information, contact Randi Ungar, senior account manager, at 212-630-4636, or Deborah Levy, senior account manger, West Coast, at 323-965-7283. 6 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2007

Justsweet’s acrylic, polyester and Lurex cardigan, Mimi Chica’s polyester, rayon and cotton skirt, Tripp NYC’s mohair tank worn over Necessary Objects’ polyester and spandex top. Steve Madden boots. ▲

Eye Candy Raggedy Ann, meet Pippi Longstocking. Designers have pilfered from both childhood icons for fall’s mix of quirky, psychedelic looks.

Heatherette’s wool and polyester Hot Kiss’ wool, polyamide jacket and cotton dress, worn and mohair jacket, Jessica over Tripp NYC’s nylon crinoline. McClintock’s polyester and Accessory Network hat; Hue nylon dress and West Coast tights; Stuart Weitzman boots. Chopper’s cotton sweatshirt. WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2007 7 WWD.COM M ALTER EGO; FASHION ASSISTANT: CAMERON KERSHAW; STYLED BY DAVID YASSKY DAVID STYLED BY CAMERON KERSHAW; ASSISTANT: EGO; FASHION M ALTER

▲ BB Dakota’s acrylic and wool coat, Deréon’s cotton and polyester hoodie and Necessary Objects’ polyester and spandex dress. K; MODEL: ANDRESSA/SUPREME; HAIR BY DARIA WRIGHT AND MAKEUP BY ANTHEA KING, BOTH AT ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; ALL JEWELRY FRO ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; ANTHEA KING, BOTH AT K; MODEL: ANDRESSA/SUPREME; DARIA WRIGHT AND MAKEUP BY HAIR BY

Melody Maker’s cotton sweatshirt and cotton and spandex leggings. Oh Deer! shoes. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KYLE ERICKSEN IN FRONT OF CHRISTOPHER TANNER’S “HOW HIGH THE MOON” EXHIBIT AT THE PAVEL ZOUBOK GALLERY, NEW YOR ZOUBOK GALLERY, THE PAVEL “HOW HIGH THE MOON” EXHIBIT AT ERICKSEN IN FRONT OF CHRISTOPHER TANNER’S KYLE BY PHOTOGRAPHED 8 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2007

Juicy Couture at 860 Madison Avenue.

Nine West Wholesale Giants Morphing Into Retailers By Whitney Beckett In the next few years, the group plans to roll out about to invest about $45 million in its retail locations this year 100 stores each for Juicy Couture, Lucky Brand and Kate and open 75 to 100 stores. orget the distinction between wholesaler and retail- Spade. Under new ceo William L. McComb, Claiborne is A lot changed leading up to 2005 to prompt the manu- Fer. Today’s breed are brand managers. closing retail divisions for brands that won’t reach that facturing giant to change its retail strategy. Since 2000, Once simply manufacturing giants, VF Corp., Liz level. Earlier this year, Claiborne said it would shutter VF has acquired lifestyle brands including North Face, Claiborne Inc., Jones Apparel Group, and Kellwood Co. the four Mexx stores in the U.S. and the three Laundry Nautica and Vans — “a lot of brands that have owned are mutating into multiheaded beasts, with their direct- stores. The plan is to focus marketing and capital resourc- monobrand retail potential,” noted Eric Wiseman, VF’s to-consumer sides becoming an increasingly large part es — plus attention and man hours — to the brands that president and chief operating offi cer. Its experience of their identities. have the greatest growth potential. with North Face, whose stores have consistently deliv- As traditional retailers consolidated and upped their “It’s important to reach 100 stores to have scale and ered double-digit comparable-store sales growth over own production of private label, retailers’ reliance on critical mass,” said Jill Granoff, group president for di- the last few years, taught VF the benefi ts of controlling wholesalers has declined. rect-to-consumer at Claiborne. “We certainly view retail its distribution channel. “Obviously when you look at how much power depart- as a key growth engine.” “The brands that we want to acquire should be strong ment stores carry over them, vendors need to do some- Granoff, former president and chief operating of- global lifestyle brands,” Wiseman said. “Those brands have thing to get power back in their own hands, but how they fi cer of Victoria’s Secret Beauty, joined Claiborne in an owned retail component or at least an opportunity.” do that is up for debate,” said Brad Stephens, an analyst September in the newly created post, which made her Although VF may be “late to the game,” as one analyst for Morgan Keegan & Co. Inc. “Specialty retail is one responsible for the company’s specialty retail and out- put it, and garnering a smaller percentage of sales from of the hardest businesses out there, and you can open let stores, plus e-commerce Web sites, in the U.S. In retail than Claiborne and Jones, which have Mexx and yourself up for more — not less — risk.” McComb’s recent shakeup of group presidents’ respon- Barneys, the $6.14 billion VF is still doing almost $1 billion Jones Apparel Group’s 1,000-plus retail stores made a year in direct-to-consumer sales. Wiseman said VF opens up about 31 percent of the $4.74 billion fi rm’s sales last stores for three reasons, which the other companies echo: year, up from 21 percent in 2005 and 17 percent in 2004, North Face in the Flatiron Building. ● First, to strengthen brands. “If you look at how the year Jones acquired Barneys New York. In fi ve any one of our brands is presented by our retail cus- years, Jones president and chief executive offi cer Peter tomers, they tend to not bring the whole brand to life in Boneparth would like to see retail contributing between one place,” Wiseman said. “We think we can help bring 35 and 40 percent of group revenues — but that doesn’t brand strength by putting it all together in an environ- mean the company is walking away from wholesale. ment like we would like it to be. Because our brands are “Everything we do is about balance,” Boneparth said. lifestyle brands, you get to see the lifestyle in our own “Our roots are in wholesale. We’re a wholesale business, stores, and consumers respond in those environments.” and we aren’t abandoning that.” ● Second, to improve wholesale business in a geo- Most of Jones’ stores are outlets, but the company is graphic market. “Opening the North Face store in expanding its full-priced segments. Boneparth thinks New York made our business in New York stronger, so Bandolino can grow from the 30 stores it has today to 100 much so we opened a second in New York in the fall,” within a few years. Still in the beginning retail stages, Anne Wiseman said. “When we invest in our retail in the right Klein will get half a dozen new specialty stores this year. way, our wholesale business gets better.” “Our focus is going to be maximizing our productivity ● Third, to open a brand to new consumers. For VF, in the things we’ve got,” Boneparth said. “The new con- retail strategy plays into global strategy. Five years ago, cept is Anne Klein, but the existing concepts are where global sales made up about 19 percent of business, com- we are going to spend a lot of time and energy. The idea is pared with about 27 percent this year, and the new target not to open a bunch of doors, but rather to do them profi t- is 30 percent. A lot of VF’s store openings are outside the ably. While store numbers are increasing, our goal is to U.S., including India, where Nautica, Lee and Wrangler make sure the retail represents the brand properly, be- stores are popping up. “Our own retail stores allow us to cause it’s the face of the brand on a day-to-day basis.” introduce the brand to a geographically new market in For Nine West, Boneparth wants to return the retail exactly the way we want to present it,” Wiseman said. stores to a double-digit operating margins business — sibilities, Granoff gained oversight of Lucky Brand and For Kellwood, its 2004 Phat Fashions acquisition which it has not had of late due to rent increases and Sigrid Olsen, two of Claiborne’s retail power brands. is helping the group travel globally. Only one of the 10 “under-investing in the store experience,” according to “One of the reasons we brought Jill in was to ensure we Phat Fashion doors today is in the U.S., and in the next Boneparth. He points to the Nine West store on Madison aren’t wholesalers doing retail,” said a spokeswoman three years, there may be as many as 50 Phat Fashions Avenue in New York that opened in February as the new for the company. stores, which house Phat Farm and Baby Phat, most of “cleaner, less cluttered and consumer-centric” model. Granoff is also focusing on how to increase compara- which will be international. The feather in Jones’ cap has been Barneys New ble store growth. “The best retailers are the ones with a Kellwood is actively acquiring more brands that York, which the fi rm acquired at the end of 2004 to really compelling shopping experience,” she said. “You could have retail legs. Both fall 2006 acquisitions, mixed reviews, but which now seems to have paid off. really have to focus on the retail experience, which is Hollywould will get about 10 new stores in the next few Opening two fl agship stores last year, plus Co-op off- a combination of the product and the shopping envi- years, and Vince, which currently does not have its own shoots, Boneparth projects Barneys will be a “billion ronment. You need to scintillate all of the senses – not doors, will open a few test stores — though those stores dollar business” in the next three years. only what you are seeing, but also what you are hearing, will be domestic. Jones has Barneys, and Claiborne has Mexx, a less- smelling and even tasting. When you are a wholesaler, “Our strategy is to be a brand-focused marketing en- pricey retailer with roots abroad. While about 27 percent you focus on the product and not as much on the selling terprise,” said Robert C. Skinner Jr., Kellwood president, of Claiborne’s current $4.99 billion business is direct-to- environment.” chairman and ceo. “The distinction between wholesalers consumer, up from 25 percent in 2005 and 18 percent in Analysts agree that other wholesalers could take a and retailers is blurring or even disappearing as we all 2001, the company projects retail will climb to upwards of page from VF’s retail business, with its largely successful fi nd the best ways to connect with our consumers as we 40 percent in the next few years. Claiborne’s store num- North Face and Vans lifestyle stores. VF added compa- integrate our brands. The Internet, retail consolidation bers today are almost evenly distributed between outlet ny-owned retail operations as a new plank in its growth and private label all have changed the landscape to make and specialty stores with about 250 full price and about strategy at the end of 2005, announcing it would grow its it advantageous to be a retailer too.” 200 outlet stores. Going forward, the company speculates stores from about 500 back then, or 12 percent of its busi- With about 100 stores, Kellwood has been “experi- growth in the specialty retail sector will outpace outlet ness, to about 800 stores, or 18 percent, over about four menting” with retail for about two years and will still be growth, so the ratio will be more like 70-30. years. Retail contributed about 14 percent of revenues in in that “embryonic stage of retail” for another year, ac- Most of that will come from Claiborne “power brands.” 2006. After opening 62 stores last year, the company plans cording to Skinner. Currently Kellwood has outlet and WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2007 9 WWD.COM

full-price stores for both its Sag Harbor and Koret brands, plus 10 specialty Phat Fashions and two Hollywould stores. Although the majority of Kellwood’s stores today are outlet, future openings of specialty stores will out- Limited Sues Quiksilver Over Trademark number outlet openings. Kellwood does not break out imited Stores and Limco filed a trademark in- Limited said in the complaint that Quiksilver “pub- the percentage of its business that comes from direct-to- Lfringement lawsuit against Quiksilver over use of licly announced that is has appropriated the term consumer sales, because “it’s not signifi cant,” Skinner the word “limited” on apparel. Limited for its own use as a label for a clothing line. said. “When it is signifi cant, we’ll break it out. I can see it According to court documents filed Monday Defendant’s new line focuses almost exclusively on becoming signifi cant.” But he added, “We don’t consider in Manhattan federal court, Limited alleged that [Limited Stores] ‘limited’ trademark, such that con- it to be a race with other wholesalers.” Quiksilver’s “The Limited Collection” infringes on sumers are likely to be confused or deceived into be- “Wholesalers becoming retailers is just going to ac- its existing trademarks for apparel. “The Limited lieving that defendant and defendant’s garments are celerate,” said consultant Robin Lewis. “The supply Collection” was introduced at the MAGIC trade show somehow connected or associated.” chain is going to be absolutely fl at. Direct to consumer in Los Angeles and will be launched for summer 2007. The lawsuit contains counts of federal and state is the future. There will be no wholesalers or retailers. Quiksilver did not respond to requests for com- trademark infringement, unfair competition, false They will all be brand managers. The words retail and ment by press time. designation of origin, trademark dilution and trade wholesale will be thrown out of the dictionary at least Quiksilver’s Limited Collection is said to include name infringement. Limited asked the court for a within 10 years, maybe sooner.” denim and nondenim bottoms, button-front woven preliminary and permanent injunction as well as un- John Henderson, a director at Net Worth Solutions Inc. tops, outerwear, shorts, jackets, hats and belts. The specifi ed statutory and punitive damages. and a former president of Kellwood’s Sag Harbor division, line is more upscale sportswear. — Liza Casabona cautioned that retail is a competitive, high-risk, capital- intensive business, which requires companies to own the inventory and make long-term commitments on space. “There’s a trend for wholesalers to think retail is more exciting than what they are doing,” Henderson said. “Instead of being an opportunity, it can be a distraction. If Madewell Turns to Scoop to Meet Demand for Product your business isn’t good at wholesale, it most likely won’t be good at retail.” NEW YORK — J. Crew chairman and chief executive noted it could change once Madewell fi nds its own Injecting retail into a wholesale business model skews officer Millard “Mickey’’ Drexler thinks so much of Manhattan location. But there’s a track record of earnings and sales. Scoop that he’s selling Madewell product there. working together. Last fall, when Madewell launched “They are in two different With just three stores open and a Web site, the new its fi rst store in Dallas, Scoop began selling one worlds in two different cycles but Madewell brand launched by Drexler and the J. Crew Madewell jeans style, the bootlegger. Previously, with one reporting period,” said Group last fall can’t meet all the demand for its product. Scoop had tested some J. Crew men’s shirts and consultant Emanuel Weintraub. So the Scoop megastore on Broadway, between Grand Crewcuts children’s wear. The collaboration contin- “The vendor is preceding the retail- and Broome Streets, since Sunday has been selling ues, beyond reorders. er by a certain number of months, Madewell’s garment-dyed bootlegger jeans when you put those together you for $98, baked blue rail straight-leg jeans, From the Madewell Web site, will have two different sets of num- $98, and another in garage gray for $115. a pair of garment-dyed jeans. bers, and as vendors’ retail busi- Scoop also has been selling Madewell’s $42 nesses grow, the retail numbers are canvas nautical tote. Madewell is priced 20 going to be increasingly important. to 30 percent lower than J. Crew, is more ca- Now the analysts are going to have sual and has more of an edge. to dig into those two different sets “It is unorthodox,” Drexler said of the of numbers and make sense of it. Scoop arrangement. “But we are in an un- You need a crisp breakout of retail orthodox business — fashion. Scoop is ar- and a crisp breakout of wholesale guably the best jeans seller in New York.” from fi rms that have both.” Stefanie Greenfi eld, co-owner of Scoop, While retailers typically end said: “We took 24 of each jean and have their fiscal years in January to about six left of each, It’s great to be able smooth seasonal disparities, add- to fi nd a jean that offers a price-value op- ing January’s clearance sales to the portunity for all customers, especially for Broadway. “Now we’re working on a pajama program with J. robust holiday sales instead of to For us, it’s opening price point denim.” She also said Crew,” Greenfi eld said. “The great thing is, it’s a uni- sleepy February, most traditional 85 percent of the totes were sold. sex pajama. It will start in women’s sizes and end in wholesalers follow a traditional Drexler acknowledged the arrangement is not men’s sizes.” Baby calendar year, pointed out Margaret a prelude to a bigger partnership with Scoop, and — David Moin Phat Mager, retail analyst and managing for fall director for Goldman Sachs & Co. 2007. “Wholesalers need to become even better retailers if they continue to pursue that strategy as specialty retail as a key strategy for meandering among the photos and guests was Mia Rose, an growth,” Mager said. emerging singer who just recorded her fi rst single, “Hold Me VF, which analysts applaud for its appropriately-paced Fashion Scoops Now.” Fresh from a meeting with MTV to discuss the prospect retail growth, was the only company of the four not to take of a reality show, Rose divulged the evening marked her fi rst a hit in the fi rst quarter of 2006, while each company grew COLLEAGUE DAY: Practically every blue chip time walking the red carpet. The photo exhibit, which ties its retail sector. VF reported a 24.6 percent rise in earn- name turned out Tuesday as Saks Fifth into a larger effort by Bendel’s to link fashion and art, will ings, while sales rose 5.3 percent in that quarter. Avenue, along with the old school charity group remain on display and open to the public through Monday. At Jones, fi rst quarter earnings last year dropped 7.8 the Colleagues, presented the 19th annual “Our customer is interested and involved in things outside percent on a 10.8 percent sales gain. Part of the hit came spring luncheon at the Beverly Wilshire hotel the world of fashion and beauty,” declared Henri Bendel chief from a 3.7 percent same-store sales drop in its footwear in Beverly Hills, featuring an Oscar de la Renta executive offi cer and president Ed Bucciarelli. “What better and ready-to-wear stores, excluding Barneys New York. fashion show and honoring Brooke Shields way to satisfy her than to bridge fashion and beauty with art?” Claiborne’s fi rst quarter of 2006 saw profi ts fall 34.3 and her husband, Chris Henchy, with the percent on a 3.4 percent drop in sales. The company at- Champions of Children award. While press-shy EVERYONE’S A FAN: None other than LVMH chief Bernard Arnault tributed much of the decline to retail consolidation, but Dohenys, Bloomingdales and Fondas mingled was seen popping into Tom Ford’s new men’s boutique on also to its own retail changes. with the more garrulous Bells and Davises Wednesday and Ford naturally gave him a private tour. It was a day McComb labeled this not as a problem but rather a as well as Cornelia Guest, Jamie Tisch, Crystal after a crowd of retailers, editors and stylists packed the store on reality to be accepted. But planning, particularly when Lourd, Stephanie Murray, Liane Weintraub and Madison Avenue Tuesday night for the fi rst of two parties the Claiborne returns to giving guidance, is a mutable fac- Wendy Goldberg, the lion’s share of attention designer was hosting this week to mark his long-awaited opening. tor, said Granoff. went to longtime Colleague Nancy Reagan, who As Domenico De Sole recounted to guests the intricacies of the “There certainly is a shift in fi nancial planning,” she presented the award to Shields and Henchy. company’s fi nancial structure, Ford — looking resplendent in one said. “In a wholesaler model, the Christmas revenues Reagan, who just met Shields for the fi rst of his new peaked-lapel creations with a blue shirt and Windsor knot are recognized in Q3. There is a shift in timing of when time, called her “lovely,” while Shields told tie — described how he grew impatient at everyone’s impatience for we recognize revenue.” her, “You will always be the fi rst lady to me.” him to open. “They kept asking me why it was taking so long. But As Claiborne continues to expand its retail segment Brooke Reagan chose to wear her own Chanel tweed we signed the license with Zegna less than a year ago. I don’t think to its projected 40 percent, this will only become a larg- Shields suit and pearls instead of the featured designer a year to do all this is long at all,” said Ford, who hosted another er issue, according to analysts. JIM SMEAL/BEIMAGES PHOTO BY (“Unfortunately, this isn’t Oscar,” she offered) crowd Wednesday night, followed by a dinner at the Carlyle. “The retail business is a black box for Liz,” said and also took on one of the latest accessories trends: bold Meanwhile, Richard Buckley, Ford’s partner, was looking a Elizabeth Montgomery, analyst for Cowen & Co. “This tortoise prescription glasses by Gucci. “For me, they’re a bit sheepish about his double-breasted suit. “It’s old Gucci,” year, they need to anticipate the change in seasonality necessity,” she said. “I’d be blind as a bat without them.” said Buckley, who had arrived that day from L.A. “I couldn’t for the fi rst quarter, especially because they have been try things on until now and they’re being tailored.” adding a lot of stores in the back half of 2006.” ISLAND TO ISLAND: It took Henri Bendel to lure the publicity- As Kellwood inches into the retail game, it too will shy François Nars, the creative director of NARS Cosmetics, HOT HOT HOT: Tuesday’s 40-degree temps may not have been need to anticipate potential hits in its fi rst quarter, ana- from his private island Motu Tane in French Polynesia to cause to break out the fi lmy frothy sundresses, but there lysts caution. It took a 22 percent hit in its fi rst quarter Manhattan on Tuesday night. The reason was a 10-year photo was no use telling that to the crowd at the new Miguelina last year, largely due to restructuring costs. retrospective by Nars, who shot his fi rst professional picture boutique in New York. “No one cares, everyone’s been “Now Kellwood has been testing these retail stores, for the beauty line’s fall 1996 ad campaign. Nars touched shopping like crazy,” said designer Miguelina Gambaccini, what is going to happen for Q1?” asked Montgomery. “Q1 down in Manhattan for the occasion, having just spent several who threw a festive cocktail party in honor of the opening is a tough quarter for the retail business, and that’s what months on his island, where he hosted model Dayle Haddon. of the West Village shop. Indeed, Emilia Fanjul Pfeifl er, these companies are fi nding as they go into retail.” Haddon, who cohosted the event with Lydia Hearst and Astrid Munoz and Elizabeth Saltzman all appeared very happy Skinner dismissed the concern. “It’s just a real- Amy Wesson, said she happily passed the time there scuba wearing their bright and feminine frocks — even if they did ity in retail,” he said. “Until we can fi nd a way to make diving by day and watching old movies in the evenings. Also have to pair them with leggings and tights. Valentine’s Day as big as Christmas, that is.” 10 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2007 WWD.COM Attaching the title of “fashion designer” to celebrities seems to be a never-ending trend, even though they’ve had decidedly mixed success at retail. Here, WWD TheWWDList takes a look at the top contemporary, tween and young women’s celebrity apparel brands ranked by the number of U.S. doors. (For a closer look at the market’s newcomers, see opposite page.) Some of the biggest names are found closer to the bottom of the rankings — Gwen Stefani and Jennifer Lopez, for example — but executives at the two fashion houses claim that’s because they’re selective about where they place their collections. Said a spokeswoman for L.A.M.B.: Star Wears “This brand…is considered a luxury designer brand, a fact enforced by its highly The top celebrity brands ranked by the number of U.S. doors selective distribution. The collection is sold in only the best retailers around the where their apparel collections are sold. world.” — Cecily Hall, with contributions from Julee Greenberg STUFF BY HILARY DUFF Number of doors sold to nationally: 5,100 The teen sensation includes apparel in her well-marketed stuff by hilary duff collection. Specifi c apparel items, such as polo T-shirts, denim gauchos and patchwork skirts are sold at retailers from Wal-Mart to Kohl’s. The tween brand also includes jewelry, accessories, DVDs, CDs, dolls, luggage and more. 1 In addition to her fashion line, Duff created her own fragrance, called With Love, and she launched her latest album last week, titled “Dignity.”

BABY PHAT BY KIMORA LEE SIMMONS * Doors: 3,500 (est.) Since its launch in 2000, Kimora Lee Simmons’ Baby Phat has evolved into a fashionable juniors line, consisting of logo-heavy T-shirts, denim, jackets, pants, outerwear and more — and it continues to perform well at retail. In addition to apparel, Baby Phat has ventured into swimwear, lingerie, handbags 2 and accessories. Since the brand’s consumer is getting older, “we’ll continue offering Baby Phat to our younger consumers, but we also want to sell pieces that refl ect a sexy, stylish feel with the new KLS Collection,” said a Baby Phat spokesman. “This particular line is actually celebrity-wearable.” APPLE BOTTOMS BY NELLY * Doors: 3,500 The mastermind behind Apple Bottoms, Cornelius Haynes Jr., (aka: multiplatinum hip-hop artist Nelly), launched the denim-heavy brand in 2002. In addition to its body-hugging jeans, the collection features sexy tops, miniskirts, jackets, sweat suits and outerwear. Last year, Apple Bottoms signed 3 licensing deals to produce jewelry, handbags, footwear and accessories such as iPod and BlackBerry cases. “We’re an empire now,” Shauna Miller, licensing director for Apple Bottoms, told WWD in July. The brand is worn by celebrities such as Oprah Winfrey, Vivica A. Fox and Alicia Keys. ROCAWEAR BY JAY-Z † Doors: 3,000 (est.) Jay-Z’s Rocawear was offi cially purchased last week by New York-based Iconix Brand Group for $204 million in cash (and contingent payments of an additional $35 million of Iconix stock based on performance thresholds over the next three to fi ve years). Rocawear’s contemporary merchandise, which 4 includes knits, denim, dresses, outerwear and more, is sold through better department and specialty stores with annual retail sales of more than $800 million, according to the company. MARY-KATEANDASHLEY BY MARY-KATE AND ASHLEY OLSEN † Doors: 3,000 (est.) Wonder twins Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, both 20 years old, have created an empire through this brand, which is run by Dualstar Entertainment Group. The collection is dedicated to the tween and teen markets and encompasses not only apparel — which is sold exclusively through Wal-Mart stores — but 5 cosmetics, fragrances, home videos, books, music, video games and dolls. Popular apparel items in the collection include chiffon tops, embellished denim jackets, embroidered skirts and print blouses. G-UNIT BY 50 CENT Doors: 1,110 This two-year-old label, developed by 50 Cent and owned by Marc Ecko Enterprises, has evolved from a logo-driven collection to one that relies on other quality trends (such as prints and key colors) to raise its brand awareness. The women’s line features denim, T-shirts, skirts, knit tops, woven tops and 6 outerwear. Paul Boyea, president of G-Unit Clothing Co., said, “You cannot rely on just a name — you have to have the product.” Regarding its future, the company stated: “G-Unit is well positioned because the design team understands that it’s all about satisfying consumers’ expectations with innovative trends.” HOUSE OF DEREON BY BEYONCE KNOWLES Doors: 1,000 It’s the house that Beyoncé built. The brand, created by Knowles and her mother, Tina, launched in 2005 and was inspired by Tina’s mother, the late Agnes Deréon. According to the company, current bestsellers include the Private D dress, the Bijoux Luxe hoodie and the Captain D-Luv reversible hoodie. The 7 brand also includes accessories, such as handbags, hats, belts, gloves and scarves. In addition to its entrance to all major department stores this fall, the brand is launching Deréon girls (in sizes ranging from 2 to 16) and infants for holiday 2007.

DAISY FUENTES BY DAISY FUENTES Doors: 800 (est.) In January 2004, Menomonee Falls, Wis.-based Kohl’s Corp. revealed plans to unveil a new contemporary line, exclusive to the retailer, with fashion model and TV personality Daisy Fuentes. The company had been looking for a recognizable face to appeal to Kohl’s broad range of female shoppers. Said 8 Fuentes in a release at the time: “My new line consists of modern options that make looking stylish simple.” As well as apparel items such as knit tops, wrap dresses and jeans, the collection features cosmetics, fragrances, shoes, watches and jewelry.

L.A.M.B. BY GWEN STEFANI Doors: 300 Selling her collection in high-end stores such as Fred Segal, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Henri Bendel and Intermix has elevated Stefani’s L.A.M.B. status to a luxury brand, claimed the company. The pop superstar’s four-year-old clothing line has passed the $100 million mark in sales. Her 9 highly publicized fragrance, L, will launch Sept. 1, and WWD noted in March: “In addition to Stefani’s best-selling handbag collection, she’s hard at work designing watches and shoes.” Eyewear, denim and innerwear will be added next year.

WILLIAM RAST BY JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE Doors: 229 (est.) Call it a little bit country, a little bit rock ’n’ roll. The William Rast clothing line, which began in 2005, was developed by Daniel Guez in collaboration with Justin Timberlake and his childhood friend (from his Tennessee days), Trace Ayala. The contemporary brand (whose name was derived from Timberlake and Ayala’s 10 grandfathers’ names) is owned by Los Angeles-based People’s Liberation and includes denim, knits, wovens, outerwear and accessories for both women and men. In the U.S., products are sold at Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus, as well as smaller boutiques and specialty retailers. EDUN BY BONO Doors: 185 Launched in spring 2005, this socially conscious contemporary line was created by U2 lead singer Bono; his wife, Ali Hewson, and New York clothing designer Rogan Gregory. Edun — “nude” spelled backwards — is a collection for both women and men that includes tops, bottoms, denim, dresses, 11 jackets and sweaters. The company stated that popular items this year include knits and wovens, such as the Gertrude Cardigan (the number-one seller this season), the Eyre V-Neck and graphic Ts. J’AIME BY JAIME PRESSLY Doors: 111 (est.) This contemporary women’s knit line was created by Jaime Pressly, of the hit series “My Name Is Earl.” Pressly told WWD in October: “I’m not just another actress doing another clothing line. Fashion has been a passion for me since I was a child.” Latest looks include wrap, V-neck, Empire and tank 12 dresses; tunics; hoodies; capri pants; miniskirts, and tops. Pressly wants to eventually add accessories and possibly children’s wear, as well. “We’re defi nitely growing the brand. There will be more categories in the next 12 to 18 months,” she said. JLO BY JENNIFER LOPEZ Doors: 100 Is there anything Jennifer Lopez doesn’t do? The pop superstar-actress-dancer-designer’s line, JLO by Jennifer Lopez, is currently sold in only 100 doors (fragrances are much more widely distributed — in approximately 2,500 U.S. department store doors). While it has experienced ups and downs at retail, the brand 13 pointed out it has been selective with its number of doors, especially as there continues to be a push to expand the brand internationally. In the meantime, Lopez’s justsweet line will bow at the end of July and will contain a heavy denim presence. That brand will be available nationally at fi rst and will eventually expand globally. SOURCE: WWD ORIGINAL REPORTING; BRANDS INCLUDED FEMALE-ONLY APPAREL DESIGNED FOR TWEENS, JUNIORS AND YOUNG WOMEN; * AND † INDICATE TIES WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2007 11 WWD.COM The Beat The New Crop: Do They Have Staying Power? By Julee Greenberg Parker’s collaboration with Steve & Barry’s. Strauss & Co., Converse, eBay and Nordstrom, believes “As long as they are involved in their lines and the celebrity clothing lines are still money-makers, but are here are those who firmly believe the celebrity-as- product refl ects their style, I could see them making it,” not on the radar of the true trendsetters. Tdesigner craze has lost its luster, but newcomers he said. “The trendsetters are never going to embrace this,” launching lines this fall naturally believe otherwise. Julie Gilhart, fashion director at Barneys, said she said. “With them, it’s more about individuality, “I woke up at 5 this morning so I could come in and the choice to carry Moss’ line was a natural one. “We where they like to create their own looks, not copy the set up before I started meeting with all the buyers,” thought it was another interesting thing for us to do,” look of a certain celebrity.” Paris Hilton said Tuesday from her Los Angeles show- Gilhart said. “Kate has never let us down in terms of She said for the mainstream girl who wants to be a room, where she was showing her product to stores style, and she is a great stylist. Kate’s style is very much step ahead but isn’t quite sure how to achieve that, a for the fi rst time. Her self-titled apparel line will be Barneys’ style. We completely relate to the design direc- celebrity line would be a good choice. launched for back-to-school. tion that she has given. It is like going into her closet, “The perfect positioning for these lines is in the “This has been my dream since I was a little girl, so with items that work on their own or together. And you mainstream,” Bylenga said. “And for business, that’s not I am completely invested in the success of this brand,” can see Kate wearing every piece.” really a bad thing.” she added. “This is my job; I will be here doing this all Tim Gunn, chief creative offi cer at Liz Claiborne and Erica Salmon, creator of the Fantasy Fashion the time.” Bravo’s “Project Runway” task-maker, said his ideas League, an online game for fashionistas modeled after Hilton, who delayed a trip to Switzerland to be in Los about celebrity clothing brands had changed over time. fantasy sports leagues, just launched an off-shoot called Angeles for market week, said she had been involved He said he used to think it was something that was bad Celebrity Fashion League for the celebrity style-crazed in each detail of her collection, from picking the right for the industry and that the celebrities were taking the bunch. buttons on jeans to developing new marketing ideas. attention away from those “real designers” who had the “When we fi rst started the [Fantasy Fashion League] She said she planned to be involved with her licensee, training and the talent. site, I found it interesting that we kept hearing that peo- Dollhouse, through every decision. New product, she “I used to have a snobby view of this,” he said. “But ple on the site didn’t really know many designer names,” said, would be available every 30 to 60 days. what I’ve become aware of is that these brands employ she said. “But when it came to the celebrity names, they “It was really important to me that I be here to ex- a lot of young designers and they help these designers knew them right away without having to think about it. plain my vision to all the buyers when they see the get their start in the industry. It’s become a very positive So I would think that if these people see the celebrity clothes,” she said. “And seeing me here lets them know thing for our industry in that way.” name they recognize on a label, they would automati- that I’m really in this.” Besides, he said, “anything that generates buzz in cally be drawn to it.” And, Hilton insisted, she will be seen wearing her this industry, I’m in favor of.” Salmon said that when she fi rst learned about Sienna own line all the time. Miller coming out with a line, she was wondering how Michael Stone, president and chief executive offi cer it would sell. of brand consultant fi rm Beanstalk Group, works with “When I learned that Sienna’s line is going to be a Hilton, and with Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen on their It was really important to collaboration with her sister, who actually does have brand, which is sold exclusively at Wal-Mart. “ design experience, I was like, ‘OK, now it makes more “We see celebrities all the time who walk in here me that I be here to explain my sense,’” she said. “I do think that fashion experience is and tell us that they want to have a clothing line,” he still an important element.” said. “We always tell them the same thing — you have vision to all the buyers when That said, Salmon thinks the success of brands like to put in the time and the work. Some really just don’t Mary-Kate and Ashley and stuff by hilary duff indicates understand the business. We tell them that they have to they see the clothes. And seeing there doesn’t seem to be enough new brands for the come out with new product at least four times a year in younger set of consumers. the apparel business. If they can’t do that, then apparel me here lets them know that “Lindsay Lohan is immensely popular and I could isn’t for them.” certainly see her getting into something,” she said. Stone said more often than not, the celebrity seek- I’m really in this. “I really see more tween celebrity brands doing well. ing an apparel line of his or her own will walk right out ” Younger girls seem really into it.” the door. He said the main reason some celebrity cloth- — Paris Hilton Salmon also noted her interest in the DVB brand that ing lines fl op was because the celebrities weren’t as in- Victoria Beckham helms. The Beckhams, David being a volved as they should be. Gunn said he was very interested in Parker’s line major name in soccer, are very popular in the U.K., but “The Mary-Kate and Ashley brand works because since she has become known as a true fashion plate. have yet to make a major mark in the U.S. Their recent the girls are involved with the design. They stay on “She is such a paragon of fashion,” Gunn said. “I move to Los Angeles could fare well for their brand, but trend, and tween girls buy into it,” he explained. “The would think that launching a line has to be terrifying for that fact remains to be seen. Victoria Beckham, in an same goes with Gwen Stefani: She does well because someone like her, who is so connected to style and loyal interview with WWD in February, was the fi rst to admit L.A.M.B. is part of her career; she takes it seriously, and to many designers. When she launches her own brand, that reality. it shows.” that brand becomes her and she morphs into that brand. “We are passionate about what we do, so let’s see Stone said he could see the Kate Moss collection, She will become known for that apparel that she has her what happens. I am the fi rst one to admit, do peo- being launched next month at Topshop and at Barneys name on. We shall see.” ple really know who we are in America?” she said. New York, doing well because Moss has fashion cred- Barbara Bylenga, president of Outlaw, a consumer re- “Maybe they do, maybe they don’t. We are very realis- ibility. He also said he was intrigued by Sarah Jessica search fi rm based in San Francisco that works with Levi tic about that.”

Paris Hilton modeling a look David and from her Victoria Beckham Sienna Miller Sarah Jessica Parker own line. Kate Moss BECKHAM PHOTO BY MIKE MARSLAND/INFGOFF; MILLER BY STEVE EICHNER; PARKER BY SYLVAIN GABOURY/FILMMAGIC; SYLVAIN BY MIKE MARSLAND/INFGOFF; STEVE EICHNER; PARKER BECKHAM PHOTO BY MILLER BY M. BENETT/GETTY JOHN SHEARER/WIREIMAGE; DAVE MOSS BY BY IMAGES HILTON 12 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2007 WWD.COM

Denim Dish Dallas Cuts Ribbon on New Fashion Terminal Denim is a key ingredient at LFT Lifestyle Fashion cial pieces that are not so common,” Knell said. Terminal, the 30,000-square-foot fashion emporium in “There’s a straight-leg skinny black jean with a little Victory Park in downtown Dallas. bit of shine to it by Proportion of Blue that not a lot Iconix Wins Bongo Battle Divided into a series of shops, LFT has a central of people have.” area called The Market, where 30 brands of women’s She also has royal blue jeans and overalls on order Iconix Brand Group has come out on top in a long- and men’s denim hang from a rotating dry-cleaning from Ksubi, and purple in stock. Knell praised the re- running legal dispute involving its Bongo denim rack. T-shirts are folded into plastic crates on a belt of surgence of raw denim, which she said holds its shape brand. steel rollers that surrounds the rack. But the look isn’t and fi t better. Clean dark blue denim is selling well. A Los Angeles Superior Court jury ruled in favor entirely industrial: A water wall fl ows within the 4,000- For fall, Knell invested more than half her buy in of Iconix in a lawsuit the company fi led in 2004 square-foot area. classic boot cuts, rounding them out with trouser jeans against its former denim licensees. Iconix said in The store, which opened March 31, is the brainchild and skinny styles. a statement that the jury awarded the company $45 of Ort Varona, who has a chain of “I think it’s all about the boot million in compensatory damages and found in the Octane premium denim and ca- cut again, and the higher, the company’s favor “on every one of the claims it pur- sual sportswear shops in Dallas, better,” she said, citing rises up sued, and against the defendants on every counter- Denver and Austin, Tex., plus to the belly button. “For ladies claim asserted.” the Premium 93 designer bou- right now in the denim market, “Based upon the multiple fi ndings of malice and tique in Dallas. LFT is backed by I’m sick of showing my butt. I love willfulness, a punitive damages phase of the trial Hillwood Capital, co-developer of the trouser jean, which I think is will begin shortly,” the company added. Victory Park, the $3 billion mixed- a little more sophisticated.” Neil Cole, chairman and chief executive offi cer, used project anchored by the She’s had trouble, however, said in the statement, “We are extremely pleased American Airlines Center, home with denim jackets. with the verdict and feel that justice has been to the NBA’s Dallas Mavericks. “It’s a scary market for me,” served.” Varona projected that LFT said Knell, who shops markets In August 2004, Iconix fi led suit against Sweet would generate $400 a square foot in Dallas, Los Angeles and New Sportswear LLC, Azteca Production International in sales within a year. York. “It has to be the perfect and Apparel Distribution Services, which owned the “It’s a collection of small bou- denim jacket and I haven’t found exclusive right to operate, manufacture and distrib- tiques and they generate very it yet. The fi t has to be very femi- ute Bongo jeans. The suit also named Hubert Guez high per-square-foot numbers,” nine, not so boxy.” as a principal of all three companies. Guez is a for- he said. T-shirts and dresses round mer member of the Iconix board. Nina Knell, the women’s denim out the mix at The Market, from According to the company’s 2004 annual regu- and contemporary buyer for LFT Beard and Bangs, Rebel Yell, latory filing with the Securities and Exchange and Octane, said, “Our denim Bobi, T Luxury and Andrea S. Commission, Iconix and Sweet Sportswear had business has been very good. “I have a new line called entered into a 50-50 partnership in 1998 to form That’s what people come to us for. One of LFT’s Planet Blue Life for the girl who Unzipped Apparel, which would market Bongo ap- We try to cater to those girls.” denim areas. parel and denim. In 2002, Iconix acquired the re- LFT and Octane target 20- to maining 50 percent interest in Unzipped from Sweet 40-year-olds with up-and-coming Sportswear. The price Iconix paid to acquire sole in- brands, skipping widely distributed labels like terest in the company ultimately became a key point Citizens of Humanity, Seven For All Mankind of contention in the 2004 lawsuit. and True Religion. “Plaintiffs allege that defendants fraudulently “We want to provide our customers with a induced plaintiff to purchase Sweet’s 50 percent in- different outlet for jeans, maybe the newest terest in Unzipped for an infl ated price; Sweet and ones that look good that people don’t really Azteca committed material breaches of manage- know about,” Knell said. ment, supply and distribution agreements, and Guez She was enthusiastic about Justin materially breached his fi duciary obligations to the Timberlake’s William Rast, Ksubi, Rich & company while a member of the company’s board of Skinny, Hudson, Goldsign and Paige Premium directors, and seeks damages in excess of $50 mil- Denim, and has Odyn on order for fall. Jeans lion,” said Iconix in the SEC fi ling. prices range from $160 to $230. Shortly after fi ling the suit, the court granted “The way I bought for LFT was more spe- Jeans displayed on a dry-cleaning rack with T-shirts shown in crates. Iconix a preliminary injunction that required Guez and the other defendants to release 657,000 pairs of Bongo jeans that were in their possession, provided wants the most fabulous sweat outfi t,” she said. “They Iconix posted a $1.7 million bond. do a great safari jacket in sweatshirt material with In March 2005, a countersuit was fi led by Sweet lace. It’s a great swing top to wear with skinny, rolled Sportswear, Azteca and ADS that accused Iconix and sweatpants and it will be a fun piece with leggings.” its management of some of the same infractions that LFT also specializes in contemporary fashions, had been levied against them. According to the SEC with boutiques for 12th Street by Cynthia Vincent, fi ling, the countersuit accused Cole of interfering Chip & Pepper, Diane von Furstenberg, J. Lindeberg, with Sweet Sportswear’s performance and that he James Perse, John Varvatos, TaylorByrd and Z Zegna. had “fraudulently induced Sweet to sell its 50 per- Varona’s Premium 93, a young designer store at West cent interest in Unzipped for a defl ated price.” Village in Dallas, is represented with substantial The jury trial kicked off in January. Iconix noted space at LFT. the ruling could be appealed. There are plans for the addition of a day care cen- — Ross Tucker LFT’s water ter for shopping parents, a cafe and a hair salon this wall. summer. PHOTOS BY NAN COULTER PHOTOS BY — Holly Haber Seven For All Mankind Inks Deal for First Store Seven For All Mankind is in a retail state of mind. The Los Angeles premium denim company has secured a space for its fi rst freestanding store on the corner of Robertson Boulevard and Alden Street. The location is in the heart of Los Angeles’ contemporary retail scene, housing neighbors Lisa Klein, Kitson and Maxfi eld Blue. The 3,000-square-foot space will house the entire Seven For All Mankind line for women and men. “From a branding perspective, Robertson is perfect for us,” said Aaron Battista, vice president of retail, who joined Seven a month ago from Liz Claiborne’s Lucky Brand. “We wanted the fi rst store to be in Los Angeles, since it’s in our backyard and what we know best. So, having this space worked out well.” The store, which is being planned for a November opening, will be housed in what is now Scott Hill, a primarily men’s wear boutique owned by Peter Koral, founder and chairman of Seven For All Mankind. Scott Hill now sells some men’s and women’s products from the Seven For All Mankind collection. Jeff Fox, who operates Scott Hill, will help transform the store into Seven For All Mankind. Over the next six months, the store will be redesigned under the direction of Kenny Wu, Seven For All Mankind’s director of retail development. “The design will be very sleek, modern and sophisticated,” Battista said. “We are really looking to cap- ture that luxury customer experience and we are presenting a denim brand that has developed into a true sportswear lifestyle. I think many people will be surprised with the end result.” A look from Seven For All Mankind tested a retail concept with a pop-up shop in New York around the holidays. The a recent store, which was open for only two weeks, performed well for the brand. But, Battista said, the design of the Bongo new store would be a departure, although details were not yet fi nal. Battista said the company wanted to campaign. open two stores in 2007, but would wait until the ideal spaces open up. — Julee Greenberg WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2007 13 WWD.COM Skyscrapers in the newly developed west bay area of Doha. Fila’s New Owners Outline Growth Plan FILA’S NEW MANAGEMENT TEAM WANTS TO GROW THE

PHOTO BY MICHEL SETBOUN/CORBIS PHOTO BY Italian active lifestyle brand into a $1 billion global business. Yoon-Soo “Gene” Yoon, chairman of Fila and holding company Global Leading Brands House, who led Global’s buyout of Fila this year, said in the next three years he could more than double Fila’s $400 million to $500 million volume. To do this, Yoon said Fila would Yoon-Soo first improve product; second, “Gene” Yoon segment its distribution channel to take the brand both high end and mass, and, third, focus on U.S. wholesale distribution. “We must focus on turning around the U.S. business fi rst and then translate that around the world,” Yoon said. “We have 16 retail stores in the U.S. now, but we are not successful at retail at the moment. We must make it in wholesale here fi rst.” During a news conference in Fila’s Madison Avenue store Tuesday night, Yoon announced a new licensing model, through which Fila will license all produc- tion except in the U.S. This model takes its inspiration from Yoon’s own experience with the compa- ny, which began in 1984 when he Barneys Megadeal Appears Near became its fi rst footwear sourcing agent in South Korea. Continued from page one amount that no strategic would ever pay, but some- The fi nal element in the “re- and were talking about offers in the range of $840 one from the Middle East would because they are birth of Fila” will be streamlining million. able to see a value in the company and how it could Fila’s costs. The new owners let A spokeswoman for Barneys’ parent, Jones be expanded overseas in a way that public compa- go most of Fila’s former management; Yoon introduced some execu- Apparel Corp., declined comment Wednesday. nies in the U.S. couldn’t justify,” said an apparel tives as “the few people we decided to keep on.” It is understood the Qatar buyer is keen to executive working in mergers and acquisitions. Within four years of buying Fila, Sport Brands International Ltd., stick with current management, which has made Barneys New York was founded by Barney a company within private equity fi rm Cerberus Capital Management, Barneys a bright spot for Jones. Pressman in 1923, when it was a one-store op- sold Fila Luxembourg, which holds the rights to the worldwide use The exact name of the Qatar fund could not im- eration in Manhattan, on 17th Street, focused on of the Fila brands and trademarks, to Fila Korea. Fila Korea ac- mediately be learned, but it is said to be linked to men’s apparel for the value-conscious consumer. quired the fi rm by buying all capital stock of Fila Luxembourg for the nation’s royal family. The state-owned Qatar Eventually, Pressman’s grandsons Gene and Bob an estimated $350 million. Investment Authority has a fund valued at around Pressman expanded the chain, giving it a decided- Yoon said he did not buy Fila to fl ip it. “The only reason we $40 billion, and the royal family is eager to devel- ly upscale focus and adding women’s fashions to bought it is because we love it,” he said. “I have been with Fila for op the nation’s tourism industry. Qatar, a nation of the merchandise mix. It was under the grandsons’ 23 years, so I am sure I know every corner of the brand, and I am fewer than 1 million people, has the world’s third- rule that Barneys fi led for Chapter 11 bankruptcy going to try not to repeat the same mistakes I have seen other own- largest natural gas reserves and one of the highest protection. The retailer was bought out of bank- ers make over the years.” per capita incomes in the world. Business leaders ruptcy in 1999 by two investor funds, Whippoorwill As an example, Yoon pointed to Fila’s endorsement contract with there, spying what is happening in nearby Dubai, Associates and Bay Harbour Management, which pro basketball star Grant Hill, whom he said Fila paid about $1.5 are eager to develop luxury resort and large-scale together owned 70 percent of Barneys. After try- million a month for several years. retail complexes to attract tourists. Sources in the ing to get luxury fi rms such as Pinault-Printemps- “Some past management groups thought of Fila as an Italian U.S. believe resort complexes could easily house Redoute, LVMH Möet Hennessy Louis Vuitton and luxury brand,” he said. “They were wrong. It’s an Italian authentic small-scale, carefully edited Barneys or Barneys Dickson Concepts to pony up some cash to buy the sportswear brand.” Co-op stores to appeal to the tourist market. specialty chain, Barneys was sold in 2004 to Jones — Whitney Beckett The Qatar Investment Authority also is said to Apparel Group for $397.3 million. be interested in British food retailer J. Sainsbury. Last March, when Jones put itself up for auc- A subsidiary of the investment authority is tion, investment bankers said Barneys was eas- Qatari Diar, a real estate investment company ily worth at least $600 million to $700 million. By involved in business parks, resort complexes and August, when Jones elected to pull itself off the Everlast Seeks Consistent Message shopping centers on a major scale throughout the market, there was considerable doubt about the Middle East, including the vast waterfront project future of its moderate brands and whether some Lusail in Qatar. One source overseas said Diar of them could be turned around. Yet Barneys con- As It Moves to Premier Brand Caliber was seeking acquisitions in hotel management, tinued its growth projection, and is now believed architecture and retail — with a view to buying to have an annual volume of $800 million, accord- NEW YORK — Everlast is creat- licensees, Everlast was being strong brands with formidable management and ing to investment bankers. ing a unified brand message to manufactured with at least 18 know-how. In January, Jones was considering options for champion its image. different ones. The company In the last few weeks, there have been rum- the specialty chain, from a sale to even an initial Everlast executives out- is slightly tweaking its logo to blings in the marketplace about an expected sale public offering. At the time, Jones posted third- lined a global brand and streamline it, then adding an of Barneys. Some private equity fi rms in the U.S. quarter results and said Barneys had double-digit product strategy for 2008 and “E” icon under the logo and are believed to be willing to pay about $1 billion same-store sales in the quarter on top of comps beyond at the two-day First the tagline, “Greatness is with- for the upscale chain, far more than the $840 mil- gains a year earlier. In addition, Barneys is be- Annual Everlast Worldwide in.” Gray — rather than black lion strategic players were offering. Bankers and lieved to be on track to hit its goal of $1 billion in Brand Summit 2007 at Madison — and gold will be the offi cial market sources said foreign investors would likely sales by opening more fl agships and smaller Co-op Square Garden here, where colors. be willing to pay even more, and the bidders rap- contemporary units. Everlast licensees from around “These together build as- idly narrowed down to the fund from Qatar. — With contributions from the globe gathered Wednesday. sociations and brand equity,” “The sum [over $1 billion] is some ridiculous Bobbi Queen, New York “Many people say you can- said Adam Geisler, senior vice not compete with those brands president of marketing. [Nike and Adidas] using a li- Everlast presented re- censing model,” said Everlast search showing that customers president, chief executive view Nike, Adidas and Under officer and chairman Seth Armour as “premier brands,” Services Held for Steven Robinson Horowitz. “We say you can.” Russell and Champion as “sec- To move up to a premier ond-tier brands” and Everlast PARIS — Funeral services were held here Castellane, Paolo Roversi and Dior chief execu- brand distinction, Everlast is as “being caught in the mid- Wednesday for Steven Robinson, the longtime tive Sidney Toledano, who read “Lamentations.” focusing on bringing continuity dle.” right hand of couturier John Galliano. Robinson, Solemn Gregorian and Anglican chants by a to its logo and packaging world- “Our emphasis on boxing head of the Christian Dior and Galliano studios, choir intermingled with heart-wrenching pop wide, using more performance limits the brand, and we need died April 1 at his home in Paris following a heart recordings, including “I Will Always Love You” fabrics and materials, and in- to build a broader brand aware- attack. He was 38. by Dolly Parton and “Nothing Compares 2 U” by creasing marketing. New prod- ness,” Horowitz said. “But con- About 1,000 people attended the midday ser- Sinéad O’Connor. ucts will be divided into Train, sumers do understand that a vices, held at the American Cathedral here. Production designer Michael Howells read Compete and Live distinctions. brand starts in a single sport Countless bouquets of roses perfumed the church excerpts of “Winnie the Pooh” by A.A. Milne, and One big focus is putting forth and expands from there.” and spilled out onto the street. Among the mourn- milliner Stephen Jones read “He Wishes for the a consistent logo; among the — W.B. ers were Galliano, Delphine Arnault, Victoire de Cloths of Heaven” by William Butler Yeats. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Call CLOTHES-OUT: (937) 898-2975 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS U.S. Polo Association seeks a Full service shop to the trade. PUBLIC RELATIONS Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. MENS DENIM DESIGNER Loro Piana, a leader in the manufacturing and distribution of the finest Minimum 3-5 years experience, at PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD least 1 year in the denim market, High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- quality textiles, ready to wear and accessories has an outstanding opportunity sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 available. Candidates must have 3 years public relations experience in a knowledge of denim constructions luxury wholesale/ retail environment or major fashion publication. Respon- & washing a must. Must be sibilities will include managing publicity samples including distribution to proficient in Illustrator & Excel. Salary commensurate w/ exp. the media, generating press kits, and establishing relationships to insure Showrooms & Lofts Please email resume to: BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS maximum editorial exposure. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail [email protected] and ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Candidates must have industry contacts along with indicate code CBS-15 excellent interpersonal, communication, and organizational skills. Please send resume to: [email protected]

Buyer’s Assistant Merchandise Assistant Lester’s, metro areas best Children’s & CAD DESIGNER EDI COORD ...... 45-60K THE NATION IS BACK Jr. stores, seek motivated self starter Westchester Loc, ASN & Mapping The classic street urban brand PNB Large NYC based Intimate Apparel Co Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 with great fashion sense, merchandising in business for 30 years seeks two NATION is back. An exciting opportu- & organizational skills, and solid grasp [email protected] nity exists to join our team now. We highly creative individuals w/ 3+ yrs www.srisearch.com of retail math. Duties include monitoring exp to work with 10 existing designers. are looking for an organized, detail- WHOLESALE open to buys, eyes, and ears of the buyer, Proficient in Illustrator, Photoshop, oriented individual to assist the Mer- and vendor follow up. Knowledge of excellent color sense, and trendy need chandise Manager in all phases of line BUSINESSES WANTED RetailPro a plus. Must have 2 years of apply. You must be a team player & development & execution. Bring your B2X, an import/export corp. will pay fashion retail experience. Excellent salary work well under pressure. Fun and creative enthusiasm and awesome cash for Apparel wholesalers with 10 to w/benefits and growth potential. E-mail exciting atmosphere. Excellent pay computer skills to the rebirth of a 100 million verifiable revenue. Email: resume to: [email protected] and benefits. Pls email your resume: Eveningwear Designer new urban legend. Please e-mail your [email protected] or Call: (201) 705-5191 [email protected] Established dress company seeking resume to [email protected] designer for bridge evening collection. or fax to 212-904-1238. Pls. fax resumes to 212 944 2397 DESIGN CAD ARTIST/ ASSISTANT DESIGNER (PRODUCTION) Product Development Outerwear Co. seeks Assistant Designer. Merchandise Manager/ $75- 100K+ Intimate Apparel Manufacturer seeks Must be organized & motivated, able to BRANDED JR. COLLECTION an individual for our CAD Artist/ Product juggle multiple job tasks! Proficient in For very successful NYC, trendy,dept./ CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING Development position. Fast paced Illustrator a MUST. Ability to speak FIT TECHNICIAN specialty store line. Must have expr/ U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 environment for a team player. Exp Mid-town apparel importer is looking ability to do: pricing, order/ track sam- excellent English a MUST! Have artistic for an experienced technician to do www.sanodesignservices.com with Photoshop, Illustrator and Quark eye for detail & proportion. Must know ples thru prod., liaison with prod., and required. Experience with bras a plus. fitting and specing and work with sales, MU % goals, provide style info, how to sketch & do worksheets on Il- private label accounts for fitting appro- Will work closely with Design & lustrator &Web PDM. Salary: $30K+ fabric care, edit collection, help develop Merchandising Team. Midtown location. vals. Must have at least 4 years exp. buy plan, analyze style performance PATTERN/SAMPLES commensurate on experience. Medical Please fax or e-mail resume including E-mail or fax resume with salary Benefits/401K available. Hours: 9-6 pm etc. Prefer knowl. of Junior market. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast req’s to [email protected] salary history to: (212) 471-0330 or E-mail resume: [email protected] work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 or (718) 961-1965 E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] or Fax resume to: (212) 944-7857 Fax 917-591-2521 Tel 914-337-3660 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 12, 2007 15 WWD.COM

BOOKING TALENT: Though Dana Vachon’s book, “Mergers Chico’s Touts Expansion and Acquisitions,” has barely been in bookstores a week, this season’s lit “It” kid pondered at his book By Georgia Lee chain has 937 stores and the poten- MEMO PAD party Tuesday night who could play a few of the tial to grow to 2,000 units, he said. tome’s notable characters on the big screen. The ATLANTA — March comps were up “It’s not how many stores could producers of “Babel” have already optioned the roman à clef, which chronicles the privileged 5.2 percent, and Chico’s wants to we open, but how many should we life of Tommy Quinn, an analyst at fi ctional fi rm J.S. Spenser, and is based on the 28-year-old keep the momentum going by grow- open,” Kleman said, adding that Vachon’s early years at J.P. Morgan. “The winning role is Yves Grandchatte,” said Vachon of the ing direct sales, expanding square large stores (at least 2,800 square dark but most-celebrated artist in Manhattan. “I would be excited if Johnny Depp played him.” footage more than 20 percent and feet) are consistently Chico’s stron- Meanwhile, “I want Owen Wilson to play Roger Thorne,” Vachon continued of the book’s crass, focusing on new, less repetitive gest performers. “Rather than just shallow character. As for Quinn and his girlfriend, Frances product offerings in 2007. more sku’s [stockkeeping units], Sloan, both “should be played by an unknown who is Petites will be in the mix for the bigger stores can offer customers gorgeous,” but Vachon admitted it would be diffi cult to fi nd fi rst time, starting with a 60-store more individualized, effi cient ser- the right guy to play Quinn. “The main character is 23, so White House|Black Market rollout vice, with shorter lines at cash reg- the problem is, how many 23-year-olds are there to play the in June, and Chico’s stores will add isters and fi tting rooms.” role?” he said. The current crop of Hollywood’s young hunks petites in 2008. The petite collec- Direct sales, both online and are simply too mature. “You can’t have, say, Jake Gyllenhaal tions will include sized-down ver- in catalogue, grew 38 percent in because you have to shave him every 23 minutes.” sions of regular product along with March, to $6.7 million, and will Bloggers, bankers and novelists gathered at downtown specifi cally designed petite offer- expand with more product and restaurant Felix for the celebration, glad-handing Vachon on ings in sportswear and dresses. investment. “We’ve lagged behind his success in between rubbing elbows with Jay McInerney “The Baby Boomer market is still some other chains that started out and his wife, Anne Hearst; New York City Ballet principal booming,” Charles J. Kleman, execu- as catalogues, but the opportunity Charles Askegaard; Radar’s Maer Roshan, and Gawker Media’s tive vice president and chief fi nancial is huge,” Kleman said. Nick Denton. — Stephanie D. Smith offi cer of Chico’s, told investors and To broaden its customer base, the analysts at the annual Institutional lingerie division, Soma by Chico’s, ALL FOR MARGARET: Should Bravo decide later this month not Conference at the Ritz-Carlton here. will change its name to Soma to renew “Top Design” for a second season, Elle Decor editor “Our customer is still there.” Intimates, starting at a few stores this in chief and show judge Margaret Russell can at least console Kleman said fashion blunders summer and at all units by yearend. herself that she’s drawn her own set of fans. The comments caused Chico’s to stumble in 2006, “We want to encourage the mind- section on her obligatory weekly blog on Bravo’s Web site after 113 consecutive months of frame of Soma as an intimates store, (“Like we all need another deadline!” sighed Russell, racing same-store sales gains. He project- rather than a Chico’s store,” Kleman to fi nish her fi nal post) has been almost unanimously adoring. ed single-digit growth for the rest said. “Originally, we wanted to get the That is, except for the errant, “We fi nd it diffi cult to believe of 2007, with White House|Black six million Chico’s customer base, but that you are that callus [sic], opinionated, cold and tunnel Elle Decor editor in chief Margaret Market performing slightly better now we want the woman who doesn’t visioned and still produce such a fresh journal.” Russell wears Prada. than Chico’s stores. necessarily shop Chico’s.” A more typical example: “Most of my regular-guy, Midwest Total sales for the fi ve weeks Chico’s operates 937 spe- buddies would ridicule me for watching a show like this; however, if they were to see Margaret in [a] ended April 7 increased 22 per- cialty stores, in 47 states, the red dress, they’d set their beer down and pull up a seat next to me.” Or, “For all of us semiliterate cent, to $191.2 million, compared District of Columbia, the U.S. heterosexual males out there, the rest of you can have…(insert whatever Hollywood sex kitten’s with $156.8 million for the same Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico. name you like here) — Margaret Russell smokes them all.” And this even though Russell is judging year ago period. The company has 561 Chico’s alongside former Playmate and well-known interior designer Kelly Wearstler. Her fashion choices have Kleman outlined plans to boost front-line stores, 34 Chico’s out- above all won fans — one viewer thanked Russell for her “inspiring attire and your glamorous life.” square footage more than 20 percent let stores, 264 White House/Black “I wear a lot of Prada,” said Russell, who said she moved out to Los Angeles for fi ve weeks with about 130 to 145 new stores, Market front-line stores, 17 White and packed three suitcases — though she did fl y home after the taping of the fi rst episode to (55 to 60 Chico’s; 55 to 65 White House/Black Market outlets and switch it up. “I brought what I would wear to a business meeting,” she said. “But I couldn’t get House|Black Market and about 20 53 Soma Intimates stores. Chico’s by on the Jackie O sheaths I was wearing….I went back and packed literally every cocktail dress Soma stores) and select expansions announced the closing of its eight I owned.” — Irin Carmon of existing stores. The $1.7 billion Fitigues stores last month.

Production V.P. PRODUCTION Sales Executive Junior Sales Executive Fast growing NYC Dress/Sportswear Co. AND SOURCING Updated/Progressive better casual seeks an exp’d., aggressive, motivated PERSONAL SHOPPER Fast growing apparel manufacturer sportswear co seeks an opportun- Sales Executive with strong, well est’d. Women’s fashion design co. is seeking experienced V.P. of Produc- istic indiv looking for a home to contacts with National Chains, Dept. Stores, and Specialty Accounts. Great seeking a personal shopper. Must tion & Sourcing. Candidate must have manage current accounts and prior experience in dealing / communi- business opportunity for the right person. have 5 + years experience in cating with overseas factory. Must be increase Catalog / Specialty and Fax resume to: 516-829-7881 women’s fashion. Must be detailed oriented, excellent follow thru Department Store business. Ideal computer proficient and have and communication skills. Chinese / Candidate has had a min of 3-5 English bilingual skills a definite plus. laptop to maintain customer rela- We offer medical/dental, 401K. Please yrs exp in working with accounts tionships and reports. Excellent E-mail resume to: [email protected]. as an assistant & is now looking phone and writing skills. Base INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S LUXURY BRAND to grow. Long-term, incentive Sweater Sales & SEEKS HIGHLY MOTIVATED salary, benefits and commission. SALES ASSISTANT based oppty w/ benefits for the Career minded professionals only. Major NY Children’s Apparel Co seeks FASHION PROFESSIONALS ideal candidate. Are you hungry to Business Development TEAM Large Better Sweater Mfr., over 40 years E-mail resume to: highly motivated & detail-oriented individual TO JOIN THEIR NEW YORK grow spiritually & professionally? [email protected] to work in a demanding sales environment. Email: [email protected] seeks Sales & Business Development Must have at least 1 yr exp in sales, be com- Manager to compliment its ever expand- puter literate, personable, flexible & have Senior Account Executives: ing business. We are seeking Sales & the ability to handle heavy phone volume. Business Developers with at least 5 years Please fax or email resume to: Seeking European and Domestic markets. experience in apparel sales, and Chain / 212-967-7395 or [email protected] Must have current working relationships with SALES ASSISTANT Specialty / Dept. Store relationships, to Entry level position, in NYC Show- join our New York operation. Must have department & specialty store executives. room, completing administrative tasks understanding of sweaters, product devel- Excellent analytical and sales presentation skills required. and resolving issues pertaining to opment, and new customer development Sales & Marketing Asst. sales orders. Knowledge of ladies wear for private & branded labels. Good com- munication skills necessary. Salary & NY Based Mfr. of designer Bed Linens market a plus. Must have excellent Sales Assistants: organizational skills, ability to multi- benefits commensurate with experience. & Accessories seeks a highly organized Please call or Fax/E-mail resumes to: associate with excellent computer and task and work in a fast paced environ- Seeking career minded sales professionals with ment. Excellent written and verbal Tel: 212-921-2181 / Fax: 212-921-2184 people skills, and an eye for fashion. [email protected] Minimum 2-5 yrs. exp. preferred. E-mail strong verbal/technical reporting skills. communication skills. Proficient in resumes to: [email protected] Responsible for acct. support & monitoring orders. Microsoft Word, Excel and Outlook. Girls Plus-Size Casual Wear Fax or e-mail resume w/ salary req’s to: Tizzy Fit seeks Independent Reps. Must posses excellent customer service and follow-up skills. Attn: Sales LH (201) 854-4834 or All Territories Open. Pls contact Sample Maker & [email protected] Shanna Claytor 214-450-3971. Sample Cutter Showroom Assistant/Receptionist: Experienced sample maker & sample Manage all front desk communication. cutter for ladies’ suit and dress mfr. Please fax resume to 212-643-8150. Greet clients, answer phones, Tel: 212-564-2051. maintain showroom supplies and track incoming/outgoing packages. SALES EXECUTIVE Must be well organized, computer efficient, and polished. Est’d. Dress Co. seeks an exp’d., moti- PATTERNMAKER vated Sales Executive to help expand Trimmings & Ribbons Strong multi-tasking skills are necessary. our Dept. Store/Private Label/Catalog Mfr seeks experienced and motivated Est’d. Swimwear Co. seeks Patternmaker business. Must have strong relation- Sales Rep with knowledge of industry. exp’d. in Swimwear for its NY design ship w/Dept. Stores. Proven record of Est’d client list a must. All territories. studio. Salary commensurate w/exp. Fax Please fax or email resumes to: experience in better-to-bridge market For details visit our website resume in confidence to: 212-398-9377 212.414.1053 or [email protected] is required. Competitive salary plus shindo.com/E: [email protected] commission. Fax resume: 718-803-0827 Call 212-868-9311 Hiro/Brian