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REL19_CH_Adv-WWD_106144_REL19_v4.indd 1 8/18/14 3:05 PM REL19_CH_Adv-WWD_106144_REL19_v4.indd 2 8/18/14 3:05 PM LIMITED EDITION PUSHING ON MASERATI AND ZEGNA UNVEIL THEIR SALAD THE NEW YORK FASHION COLLABORATION. PAGE 23 WEEK PARTY SCENE DAYS SPRINTED INTO ITS BLOGGER CHIARA THIRD DAY — WITH FERRAGNI OF THE SOME INCREASINGLY BLONDE SALAD TALKS UBIQUITOUS FACES. ABOUT HER GROWING PAGES 22 AND 23 BUSINESS. PAGE 16

LOOKING TO INVEST Know These People: Fashion’s Money Men

By EVAN CLARK

THE FASHION RUNWAYS are being stalked by in- vestors wanting to buy more than the latest looks. Dealmaking is heating up in the industry. And while designers are very familiar with many of the would-be buyers — including Bernard Arnault, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY François-Henri Pinault and Johann Rupert — there’s WWD another group out there that’s extremely well-fund- ed and can’t be ignored. So designers not only need to know those three luxury titans, but also Stephen Schwarzman, John Danhakl, David Dominik and lots, lots more. Private equity players have a record $1.2 trillion in “dry powder,” or committed capital that is yet to be invested, according to research fi rm Preqin. That’s $139 billion more than the big-money investors had at their previous high-water mark in 2008. The successes of not just the Michael Kors and Tory Burches of the world, but also of the Warby Parkers, Nasty Gals and Rent the Runways have whetted the appetites of big-money investors looking for exponential growth. “Warby Parker’s become a kind of verb,” said John Howard, chief executive offi cer of Irving Place Capital, referring to the attention the company’s direct-to-consumer model has garnered in invest- ment circles. “The idea of getting rid of the middle man and get- ting right to the consumer is profound,” Howard said. And tech is only becoming more intertwined with fashion, which is gaining currency in Silicon Valley. Norwest Venture Partners has found its way to fashion brands via technology and e-commerce and has invested in Gilt Groupe, ModCloth and Kendra Scott. Sonya Brown, a general partner at Norwest, Garden said, “The thing about e-commerce is we want to fi nd areas where we don’t think Amazon can play in a big way, so areas that aren’t going to get commoditized Party SEE PAGE 20 Carolina Herrera’s modern take Twitter’s ‘Buy’ Button on fl oral arrangements featured fl amboyant blooms, digitally Debuts With Burberry printed, blown up and pixilated, on dresses, cropped jackets and By RACHEL STRUGATZ fl uid pants. Here, an ivory gown NOW IT’S Twitter’s turn to try commerce. blossoms with a single big bud. The social network, which boasts 271 million average monthly users, on Monday unveiled a “buy” button that For more on New York Fashion allows users to buy directly from a tweet. The move is Week, see pages 8 to 14. an attempt by the social network to generate another revenue stream and satisfy the ever-hungry Wall Street for ongoing growth. And the Street seemed to like the concept: On Monday, Twitter’s shares closed at $52 on the New York Stock Exchange, a 2.6 percent increase. The tool, built in partnership with platforms such as Fancy, Gumroad, Music Today and Stripe (for order fulfi llment, presentation and transactions), is being unveiled with some big names. Burberry is the sole brand from the luxury fashion world participat- ing in the initial launch, with Eminem, Demi Lovato, Pharrell Williams, Soundgarden, Wiz Khalifa, Home Depot and nonprofi ts like GLAAD, Red and 9/11 Day also part of a select test group. “When you’re talking about a consumer’s payment info and commerce in general, we’re going to wade very cautiously into those waters — [so] when larger brands jump in they can feel great about the experi- ence,” Nathan Hubbard, head of commerce at Twitter, told WWD, citing Burberry as a brand that is innova- tive in its use of Twitter. “We’re testing with them, and I think we’ll break some grand with them and set some examples of other ways brands can follow.” Twitter views commerce as a stand-alone revenue stream. The company thinks e-commerce can parallel PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER SEE PAGE 6 elietahari.com elietahari.com 4 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014

L’Oréal Buys Brazil’s Niely Cosméticos THE BRIEFING BOX The deal is subject to regulatory approvals, IN TODAY’S WWD By MILES SOCHA L’Oréal noted. Latin America represented 8.9 percent of PARIS — Continuing its push into emerging mar- L’Oréal’s revenues last year, with the zone posting a kets, L’Oréal inked a deal to acquire 100 percent of gain of 11.5 percent in the period. New York Fashion Week Brazil’s Niely Cosméticos. Investment bank Michel Dyens & Co. advised street style. For more, The French beauty giant described Niely as the larg- Niely’s shareholders in the transaction, according see WWD.com. est independent hair-color and hair-care company in to sources. Brazil, generating net revenues in 2013 of 405 million L’Oréal has been one of the most active beauty Brazilian reals, or $188 million at average exchange. firms on the mergers and acquisitions front re- The company’s main brands are Cor & Ton for cently, demonstrating interest in brands at various hair color and Niely Gold for shampoos and care. stages of their life cycles. Both are sold at “accessible prices and enjoy a In June, it added the makeup artistry brand large penetration among the country’s middle NYX Cosmetics to the fold. Last April, L’Oréal class,” L’Oréal said. completed the acquisition of Magic Holdings Daniel Fonseca de Jesus founded the company International Ltd., a maker of Chinese facial masks, in 1981, and is to join L’Oréal Brazil’s strategic com- and the purchase of Decléor and Carita from mittee as vice president. Shiseido Co. Ltd. “The acquisition of Niely Cosméticos is a stra- And last October, The Body Shop, which is tegic move for L’Oréal in Latin America and Brazil, owned by L’Oréal, purchased a 51 percent stake in KIBLER RYAN one of the biggest and fastest-growing hair-color multibrand beauty retailer Empório Body Store and hair-care markets in the world,” said Frédéric in Brazil, with an option to increase its ownership PHOTO BY

Rozé, executive vice president of L’Oréal in charge share to 80 percent by 2019. of the Americas. Brazil has a population of about 200 million and Niely Cosméticos has industrial and logistics fa- claims the largest economy in Latin America. The cilities based in Nova Iguaçu, part of the greater beauty market there has been booming and ranks A growing and varied group of investors wanting to buy more Rio de Janeiro area. fourth in the world. than the latest looks is on the hunt in fashion. PAGE 1

’’ Twitter made its most ambitious entrance into the commerce space by unveiling a “buy” button that allows users to buy Manufacture NY Awarded Obama Fund Grant directly from a tweet. PAGE 1

Herman Bott, 74, a well-respected senior human resources resurgence,” said MNY chief executive officer Bob PAGE 6 By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN executive in the apparel industry, died Thursday. Bland. “We’re hopeful that this recognition of our hard work will help to inspire other domestic man- Humberto Leon and Carol Lim love nothing more than to stage NEW YORK — Manufacture New York, a hybrid ufacturers to move forward. Local apparel produc- a show, but the Opening Ceremony spring show was theater in fashion incubator and factory for independent de- tion is indeed beginning a renaissance in New York PAGE 11 signers, has been named one of 50 national winners City, and we’re grateful that the SBA is willing to its most literal sense. of a U.S. Small Business Administration award and contribute to our incubator’s ability to help local will receive a $50,000 grant as part of an Obama ad- startups and entrepreneurs.” Coco Rocha turned up early for Carolina Herrera’s show ministration Growth Accelerator Fund competition SBA launched the Growth Accelerator Fund com- Monday — in the audience. The model has a new Harper Collins looking to invest in job creators. petition in May to award “supplemental and critical book due out late next month called “Strike A Pose.” PAGE 16 capital to the operating budgets of entrepreneurial ecosystems across the United States.” Special consid- The Blonde Salad’s Chiara Ferragni is perhaps the first eration was given to “any accelerator models which blogger who’s managed to parlay a personal style blog into a Local apparel production support manufacturing.” fully realized brand and global business. PAGE 16 “The SBA is empowering accelerators and start- is indeed beginning a ups that are on the cutting edge of successful, in- Factories and customers looked beyond price to critical novative new endeavors,” said SBA administrator factors such as flexibility, quality, service and speed to market renaissance in New York City. Maria Contreras-Sweet. “We’ve seen the enormous at Sourcing at MAGIC. PAGE 17 success of the accelerator model in communities — BOB BLAND, MANUFACTURE NEW YORK like Silicon Valley. We believe we can export this Première Vision’s fall edition will unite all six trade shows type of sophisticated support structure across the featured under the Première Vision Pluriel banner. PAGE 18 country to help start-ups become commercially vi- MNY is one of only 50 winners out of 800 appli- able and create jobs more quickly. I want SBA to Texworld and Apparel Sourcing in Paris is to showcase five cations nationwide. A panel of experts in entrepre- stand for ‘Smart, Bold and Accessible’ and these ac- different runway collections. PAGE 19 neurship, investing and business plans reviewed celerators encompass all three of these goals.”

finalists from within the government and the pri- Founded in 2012, MNY just celebrated its 2nd vate sector. MNY is the only New York City-based anniversary and has been recognized for its inno- A roundup of the Sunday night after parties at New York incubator to win an SBA award. vative Garment Center Pilot Program in Midtown Fashion Week, including those thrown by Donatella Versace and PAGE 22 “We’re very pleased that a sustainable busi- Manhattan. The SBA award will also aid MNY’s ef- Diane von Furstenberg. ness model emphasizing local design and produc- forts to launch an innovative 160,000-square-foot man- tion is now being recognized as pointing the way ufacturing innovation center for apparel, textiles and ON WWD.COM toward future job creation and a Made in America wearable technology in Sunset Park, Brooklyn. TAW NYFW: WWD went off the runways and onto the streets and sidewalks for the best looks from New York ’’ Fashion Week. For more, see WWD.com. Citi Cites Growing Smartwatch Market “Watch manufacturers with lower-priced watch- By JOELLE DIDERICH es could be most exposed but this risk can be offset by the implementation of technology in devices,” FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA PARIS — The market for smartwatches could grow the report noted. @ WWD.com/social to $10 billion by 2018 from an estimated $1.4 billion Swatch Group recently revealed plans to intro- to $1.8 billion in 2014, according to a new survey duce electronic functions to measure personal fit- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. by Citi Research, which found that close to one in ness into its Swatch Touch line of plastic watches WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. 10 respondents planned to buy a smartwatch in the starting in 2015. Swatch Group chief executive of- COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. next 12 months. ficer Nick Hayek had previously dismissed the ap- VOLUME 208, NO. 52. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and The report, published amid speculation that peal of smartwatches. two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Apple could make an announcement this week Citi said its nationwide survey found 8.2 percent Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, regarding the launch of its eagerly awaited smart- of participants intended to purchase a smartwatch Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, watch, said the broader wearables market — which in the next year, and it expects demand to grow NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West also includes sport fitness bands, smart accessories with more product introductions. Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, like jewelry and handbags and smart apparel — “Based on price, 29 percent of respondents Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. could be worth $30 billion by 2018. would spend $100 to $199 for a smartwatch in the Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address Citi said that of the projected $10 billion smart- next 12 months and 31 percent are unlikely to changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. watch market, it expects $5 billion to come at the buy one regardless of price. Interestingly, 80 per- If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with expense of traditional watch wearers and $5 bil- cent of respondents said they’d be more likely to your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be lion from technology trendsetters who do not wear buy a smartwatch if it looked like a traditional mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request a timepiece — potentially worrying news for the watch,” it said. to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse Swiss watch industry, which views the spread of The most important features were price (40 permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. smartwatches with some trepidation. percent of respondents), display visibility (36 per- Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we Nonetheless, Citi’s European luxury analyst cent), battery life (34 percent), touch screen (20 believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR Thomas Chauvet and retailing/specialty and depart- percent) and interaction with other devices (20 DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED ment stores analyst Oliver Chen forecast the intro- percent). A camera was considered the least im- TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, duction of smartwatches will not materially impact portant feature, with only 13 percent ranking it UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND existing watch industry sales. the top requirement. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. ©2014 Maybelline LLC.

6 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014 WWD.COM

Twitter ‘Buy’ Button Draws Big Names He compared potential success with what a “small” percentage of users al- {Continued from page one} Twitter’s Buy Now to flash-sale sites. lowed to test the button might be — but

its existing advertising business — which The learning curve’’ with flash sales — he did say he expects to “ramp up really has grown to be significant. Revenue for like using data to see what types of deals quickly” to 100 percent of U.S. users in a the second quarter jumped 124 percent work, the urgency of the deal offered and matter of weeks to a month. to $312 million — with advertising rev- the ability to make it compelling — are Monday’s launch was the culmina- enues comprising about 90 percent of the the same characteristics that will deter- tion of smaller commerce initiatives total top line. mine conversion on Twitter. that have taken place over the past year,

But the social network still trails far As for how the new tool works, the first from an American Express “Sync With behind the behemoth of Facebook, which time users click the “buy” button, they will Twitter” program, to Starbucks’ “Tweet reported second-quarter revenues of be prompted to enter payment and ship- a Coffee” campaign to #AmazonCart, $2.91 billion, mainly driven by advertis- ping information. Twitter will store this se- which allowed users to add items to their ing. And Facebook has a long head start curely, Hubbard said, adding that after the Amazon cards with a tweet. on Twitter when it comes to commerce, initial purchase, users will never be asked “[This] is the next step in that evolu- albeit with mixed’’ success. to enter their information again. Going tion; it is a way for our users to get closer Facebook commerce, or F-commerce, forward, when consumers go to “buy” an to the things that they love and a way for was a digital buzzword three years ago item from a tweet, all they have to do is sellers of all types to take the conversa- — but the idea of shopping on the social medium failed to resonate with users on a large scale. Industry analysts have been dubious about the success of Facebook It is a way for our users to get closer to the commerce; even though it’s become mas- sive in terms of advertising and has gen- things that they love and a way for sellers of erated more revenues from commerce, retail is not its primary business. During all types to take the conversations…between the second quarter, Facebook’s ad rev- enues reached $2.68 billion, or about 92 percent of the company’s total revenue. brands, retailers and consumers and turn them Perhaps it’s because Facebook has more into transactional relationships. The key will be to — NATHAN HUBBARD, TWITTER build on the trusted confirm the purchase and that product is tions that are already happening be- on the way — and this all occurs without tween brands, retailers and consumers and self-curated leaving the confines of Twitter. and turn them into transactional rela- Burberry will offer Twitter users an option to A spokesman for Burberry called tionships,” Hubbard said. buy nail polishes that appeared on the runway. the collaboration the “latest step in Twitter is largely starting this ini- approach [Twitter Burberry’s digital evolution” and an tiative with music artists, Hubbard ex- “Twitter seems to be an ideal platform “interesting new way in which our cus- plained, noting that this talent has a long has] enjoyed to date. onto which to introduce a purchasing tomers can shop with us.” The brand, history of maintaining direct-to-consum- capability,” said Adam Pressman, a part- which has been active on the platform er relationships — and they have mas- — ADAM PRESSMAN, ner in the Strategic IT practice at global for five years and has 3.12 million follow- sive social followings. But it’s just one of management consulting firm AT Kearney. ers, was also the first to host an in-tweet several verticals that sees a high conver- AT KEARNEY “The key will be to build on the trusted livestream, for its spring 2012 show. sation volume. Sports, retail and fashion and self-curated approach they’ve en- Immediately following Burberry are other areas that Twitter’’ expects will joyed to date, so that they are providing Prorsum’s spring fashion show in perform well when it comes to user re- of a personal feel — a user is more likely only the most timely and relevant ads to London on Sept. 15, the brand will offer sponse to potential buying opportunities. to use it to connect and communicate with their customers. Similarly to how Twitter Twitter users the chance to purchase ex- “Will people push ‘buy’ to purchase a friends and acquaintances — versus logging users can manage messaging across de- clusive nail polish colors that appeared vehicle? No. Will they buy something di- on to shop, such as with Amazon, or even vices around their own tweets or from on the runway. A boxed set of three Blue rectly from a brand that has an exclusive searching for somewhere to buy something, others they are following, one would ex- Tones will retail for $63. Later in the test- component — anything associated with as with Google. Facebook was created as a pect that users will be able to manage ing phase, the brand’s My Burberry fra- the moments that happen on Twitter or place to keep in touch with those around what ads they are shown, as well as when. grance will be available for purchase. anything that has a real-time component you, and brand presence came later. “If Twitter is able to do that, one can Twitter’s Buy Now option will be the to it? [Yes,]” Hubbard said. Twitter might be different, though, due see them to be able to convert followers only other destination — besides Burberry’s Ideally, the opportunity to buy will to the real-time nature and intent with into buyers while still maintaining the Runway Made to Order via burberry.com — occur in tandem to a consumer’s desire which users are consuming the platform. desired experience,” he added. “It may that will sell the runway nail color. to purchase, Hubbard explained, hope- Although there is a personal element, even provide a reason for users to join For Hubbard, the impetus of this test fully increasing the likelihood of a trans- Twitter is widely used to follow one’s fa- Twitter or use it more, if highly curated and the reason for starting small is to action. He called Twitter’s real-time vorite brands, celebrities’’ and organiza- products are added to the offering along- allow the microblogging platform to scale nature a “powerful acceleration” to con- tions of interest, including news outlets. side the already opted-for content.” up to other brands. He declined to reveal versation in the moment.

OBITUARY “He embodied what human But, he said, there resources represented in the was another side of early days,” said Ken Sitomer, Bott’s personality, which chief executive officer of Skin, was a Hells Angel. Herman Bott, 74 who worked with Bott when “He was a big motor- Sitomer was ceo of Bidermann. cycle guy. I remember “He was well respected for his when he turned 50 years Industries. From there, he did abilities, as well as being liked old, he got a big tattoo By LISA LOCKWOOD executive placement at Tommy as a human being.” on his arm. He wanted Hilfiger and started his own Joel Horowitz, cochairman to do that his whole life HERMAN BOTT, 74, a well- human resources company, of Diane von Furstenberg, and and go cruising with his respected senior human re- Tribeca Twenty-First Group former chairman and ceo of Harley,” said Horowitz. sources executive in the apparel Inc., of which he was chair- Tommy Hilfiger Corp., said his In addition to mo- industry, died Thursday. man from 1989 until his death. relationship with Bott was 99 torcycling, Bott’s other The cause of death was pan- Over the past 14 years, Bott percent personal and 1 per- hobbies were hunting, creatic cancer. also became a life coach, earn- cent professional. As husband traveling and being an A graduate of Long Island ing a certificate from Columbia to Bubbles Bott, who at the amateur chef. University with a bachelor of University, in addition to teach- time was Hilfiger’s executive He is survived by his science in management, Bott ing at Parsons The New School vice president of production wife, Bubbles, executive had a long career working in for Design. and sourcing, “[Herman] was a vice president of Mesh the apparel industry. He start- “Herman was the go-to man very supportive person for her, Brands, a division of ed as personnel manager of for so many people for so many which made her relationship Global Brands Group; Herman Bott Alexander’s department store, years,” said Tommy Hilfiger. “He with Tommy and me really gel,” daughter, Nisha Chisena and went on to become direc- was solid as a rock and he gave Horowitz said. and her husband, Aaron; tor of executive development so many retail and fashion ex- “He was just the most humble son, Nikhil and his wife, at Gertz and vice president of ecutives great advice and direc- and cerebral person. He was such Katrina; grandchildren Caden, Home at 1076 Madison Avenue human resources at Bonwit tion. He was very experienced a stabilizing person to talk with. Lyla and Giuliana, as well as his in New York. Contributions Teller. He then switched to the and really knew quite a bit He was someone you could talk brother, Donald. can be made in Bott’s memory wholesale side of the business, about every aspect of the busi- to about anything. His outlook on A service will be held to support Dr. Maeve Lowery becoming senior vice president, ness. He was a gentle giant — life was so passive, and he would Wednesday at 3:30 p.m. at at Memorial Sloan Kettering human resources at Bidermann very calm and very intelligent.” always calm you,” said Horowitz. Frank E. Campbell Funeral Cancer Center. FOR OVER 30 YEARS, WE HAVE ADDRESSED WHAT PEOPLE STAND IN AND WHAT THEY STAND FOR. Today, THE KENNETH COLE FOUNDATION remains committed to supporting communities in need. Learn more at KennethCole.com/ForGood 8 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014 New Yo r k Coll AS FASHION WEEK SHIFTED INTO HIGH GEAR, DESIGNERS REFERENCED BOTANICAL GARDENS, ROCK FESTIVALS AND GRITTY URBAN GRAFFITI.

Carolina Herrera Donna Karan 3.1 Phillip Lim The Row WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014 9 WWD.COM

Carolina Herrera: Carolina Herrera could have been a florist in a past life. In fact, she could be in this life; when entertaining, she does her own floral arrangements, and they’re divine. So it’s not surprising that Herrera often Spring 2015 looks to flowers to guide her collections. She did just that for spring, zeroing in on the garden palette of pink, iris blue, purple and yellow — with a twist, one that funneled the glories of nature through a modernist, digital prism. Herrera worked mostly in what she called “techno” fabrics — high-tech takes on piqués and jerseys as well as a Neoprene-like foam — and rendered her flamboyant blossoms in computer prints that were blown up, pixelated, diagramed into their color spectrum, and sometimes, cut into pieces and reassembled. Ye t Herrera didn’t hop on the digital train aimlessly, or to prove her cool factor. “With the new technology, you have so many opportunities,” she said lections during a preview. “This fabric molds so well, and it’s so feminine and light.” It made for a beautiful collection, one that retained the innate Herrera grace while taking on a youthful demeanor. Tommy Hilfiger It didn’t hurt that Herrera kept her decorative inclinations in check. Why go crazy with embellishment when one or two blooms will do? Cases in point: a gown with a giant tulip, its center a square color spectrum; a jersey dress with a vibrant lily on each shoulder. She also offered alternatives to the prints via solid versions of the piqué and foam used for dresses, suits, even gowns, which looked especially good particularly in sunshine yellow. The cuts were lovely, and the fabrics infused it all with a chic, modern momentum.

Donna Karan: Street art. At its height in New York in the Seventies and Eighties, when Jean-Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring became art stars, it was considered both popular and provocative. For spring, Donna Karan looked to the movement for inspiration. In her show notes, she said she wanted to “paint the town with urban chic,” which made for one of her more spirited collections. She used graffitilike brush strokes, color splashes and random scribbles as patterns for silhouettes that subtly evoked the Fifties — most notably via colorful bra tops with matching skirts, either pencil or full. These looks had a sense of ease and artful whimsy, and gave a wink at Céline. There were times when Karan veered off topic, though. The fringed red-and-white tweed cardigan and pencil skirt, though chic, read more matador than Manhattan. (Maybe she confused Spain with Spanish Harlem.) Some of the beige ensembles — the chic cotton poplin shift with a silk organza pleated skirt, for one — demonstrated an earthy glamour. The run-of-show referred to the hue as “paper bag,” a charming touch. Her sky-high hats, though impossible to imagine on real streets, punctuated the lineup with whimsy.

The Row: Elegant serenity. That’s the Olsens’ prescription for The Row. It resonates with legions of chic women and usually plays beautifully within the madness of fashion week. This time, that beauty was wanting. The clothes still bore the lyricism inherent in visual calm and graceful lines. But typically, Mary-Kate Olsen and Ashley Olsen identify small, strategic elements of design and detail that elevate the plainness to a higher level of interest. (Plain here is not synonymous with simple; the wrapped silhouettes were in fact anything but.) The designers didn’t do that here. During the research phase they became taken with raw silks of various weaves and intensities which ultimately inspired the collection. They romanticized the literal connotations of these fabrics in looks that ran either Eastern artisanal-nomadic or medieval heroine in homespun mode. Long, calm silhouettes devoid of any decoration ranged from loose-but-linear to huge, sweeping triangles, with bodices sometimes wrapped intricately for definition, with a nod to Romeo Gigli. It was the essence of elegance. But sometimes elegance can use a little oomph.

Tommy Hilfiger: Yo u can always count on Tommy Hilfiger to entertain the tough fashion-week crowd. On Monday morning, he transformed the Park Avenue Armory into a flower-filled music-festival set that evoked the “Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club” era. “I am inspired by music and musicians all the time,” he said backstage. “I thought this would be a great moment to unleash this, and really show young women how to dress for a festival.” Tara Ferry, Brian Ferry’s son, and Ally Hilfiger’s boyfriend Steve Hash played drums to a sound track that featured Hendrix and the Stones. Rock progeny Georgia May Jagger and Ella Richards, Keith’s granddaughter, walked the show. Hilfiger’s proposed dress code for Glastonbury or Coachella heavily nodded at the Sixties and Seventies music scene, sartorial references the designer has used in the past. He showed multiple riffs on the iconic Beatles’ military jacket, including a striped burgundy cape version shown with matching shorts. The designer has embraced the rock-star aesthetic for a long time, before anyone had even heard of Hedi Slimane, but still, the echoes of recent Saint Laurent caught some in the audience by surprise, especially the metallic striped numbers and star-patterned knit cardigan shown over a sweet baby-doll dress. That’s not to say that these looks didn’t have their appeal, especially at the designer’s price point. Hilfiger ended the show on a pretty note — languid chiffon dresses that were hippie-ish, and rendered with polish and commercial appeal.

3.1 Phillip Lim: Phillip Lim wants to jump into bed with you. The bedroom is where you’re “intimate, warm, protected and exposed all at the same time,” he said backstage, so he looked to mattress-cover patterns and quilts for his spring line. Playing with dimensional contouring, Lim manipulated silk tubes to create structured contour on tops, dresses and a bolero — all in soft hues and in a pretty trellis cloque fabric that makes the bedroom reference clear. Lim continued to play up the boudoir references with Bermuda shorts paired with belted oversize vests that had a robelike quality, while his organza embroidered utility trousers had a pajama effect. There were a few overly complicated dresses in the lineup, but overall, this was one very chic pajama party. 10 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014

Yeohlee Anthony Vaccarello x Versus Versace Nanette Lepore Rosie Assoulin MITRA ROBERT JOHN AQUINO AND ROSIE ASSOULIN BY GIANNONI; NANETTE GIOVANNI LEPORE BY

FOR MORE SPRING

JIMI CELESTE; VERSUS VERSACE BY COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ runway. YEOHLEE PHOTO BY

Yeohlee: Yeohlee Teng Anthony Vaccarello x Versus Versace: and bust motifs on, for example, a and her models danced a number loves math and Sufficient pre-buzz marked languid shirtdress unbuttoned below the choreographed by her brother and niece used precise the pairing of Anthony waist over shorts. — welcome to Club Med, everyone — measurements Vaccarello, the young It all read classic Versace, but it felt like we were in the middle of a rather than draping SPRING 2015 Italian designer known for tempered for the Versus girl’s youth and family vacation. to create her provocatively sexy clothes, wallet. If that was the intention, mission clothes, which gave and Donatella Versace. accomplished. But if the point was for Rosie Assoulin: “I try to bring a lot of them a precisely NEW YORK It was no surprise Vaccarello to bring something new to awesome things together,” said Rosie articulated that Sunday night’s the Versus vernacular, he didn’t push far Assoulin. She wasn’t kidding, citing the geometry. This COLLECTIONS event to unveil the enough. It’s likely, too, that the speed- work of ceramic artist Betty Woodman was evident mostly collaboration had all to-market goal played into some design as an influence on her color scheme — a in her Bermudas, the right ingredients decisions. Clothes that are available mix of jewel tones and soft pastels — palazzo pants and for a high-voltage fashion after a show tend to look like, well, and hats. Eveningwear looks exuded a jersey dresses, like a affair: Rihanna, Nicki Minaj, clothes that are available after a show. strong, minimalist chic, but it was her black-and-white cotton Naomi Campbell and Jennifer separates that were most inventive. One triangular version, that Hudson in the front row; a big party Nanette Lepore: For spring, Nanette sleeveless silk blouse, in mint green — resulted in the precisely articulated set to follow the show, and the clothes Lepore went on a fantasy trip, inspired dubbed the “Frullet,” as in a mullet in shapes that are her signature. A red- available immediately on the brand’s by the South of France and California. the front — featured an open back and and-white splash print on jackets, a Web site. The show was bright and happy, with exaggeratedly long front with side ties. dress and hoodie with shorts added a Vaccarello opened with a parade of vivid colors and a bold border print, Another, called “The O’Keeffe,” came fun moment, and her paperlike fabrics, little black dresses and tailored looks, all with a relaxed and beachy vibe. in navy silk faille with layers of green used for jackets and blouses, were some slashed and held together with Lepore showed tent dresses, scarf and white folds of silk at the waist, especially interesting. This cohesive gold piercings. Sound familiar? The border-print swimsuits, striped tops like a blossoming flower. The straw collection was lighthearted without signature Medusa was replaced by a and an embroidered coat. In the finale, hat influence was most noticeable in a losing the thoughtfulness that Teng lion, which was sometimes featured Lepore’s daughter, Violet, walked the tiered skirt made of straw, hemp and is known for and an oasis of calm, within acrylic insets. Vaccarello runway for the first time, wearing an raffia; those materials were also used on controlled design in an otherwise also used the Grecian key pattern embroidered caftan. a crop top and spaghetti-strap blouse to overheated fashion week. throughout, as well as neoclassic column At the end of the show, Lepore charming effect. WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014 11 WWD.COM

A scene from Opening Ceremony’s one-act play, “100% Lost Cotton.” Caption go here for this

CERVANTES JULIETA Gated Community Theater PHOTO BY

THAT BOOK, SCREENPLAY, Web series Rashida Jones as Vogue’s Lisa Love; and Dylan: “Honest answer or dishonest is supposed to be about the summer of based on the absurdities of daily life in Karlie Kloss as herself. answer?” ’91, when Carol and I used to go pool- the fashion industry that you’ve been Taking in the show, besides the Perhaps the comedy landed depending hopping together in high school. All we meaning to write? It was upstaged in a editorial and retail elite, were Allison on one’s taste for rapid-fire expletives and wanted to do was find another new pool major way Sunday night at the Opening Williams, Chloë Sevigny, Dakota “hipster quips,” as they were called in to sneak into, you know? That’s all that Ceremony presentation. Fanning, Jason Schwartzman and the show. But it was impossible not to be mattered. Every new pool was like a Humberto Leon and Carol Lim love electronic dance music star Skrillex: impressed and entertained. new adventure.” nothing more than to stage a show, but It was community theater for a certain Bella had thought she was forever After the show, the real Leon said, the Opening Ceremony spring show was gated community. bonded with Brian after a drunken “Actually, all of that is true, and the theater in its most literal sense. The Entering the building at 64th heart-to-heart at Sway that ended with whole concept of the collection is all collection was presented as a one-night- Street and Amsterdam Avenue, only him paying her the highest of hipster real and it was about the summer Carol only one-act play titled “100% Lost Cotton” those familiar with the bowels of the compliments — “You’re the baddest b--- and I had together. So Spike took that that revolved around the last-minute Metropolitan Opera House might have -h I know.” Subsequently, she’s defeated and spun it and made fun of us.” preparations for the spring collection. To known they were walking through the when he doesn’t remember her at the Asked about the fact that the direct, the designers got the king of meta, set of “The Marriage of Figaro” on their fitting a few weeks later. clothes were background props in the Spike Jonze, director of “Her,” and Jonah way to bleacher seats. With the rising But wait! This is supposed to be a production, Leon said, “There are other Hill, who cowrote the play with Jonze. of the curtain came the revelation that fashion review, not a theater review. avenues to see the clothes. We feel like A small production executed on a grand the audience was on the stage of the Opening Ceremony’s real spring this was really about the experience.” scale, down to the mock Playbills that Met, staring out into the orchestra. That collection played a supporting role. The He was right. Yo u had to be there. included an interview with Leon, Jonze alone was a moment. lineup had color — orange and purple The show closed with a performance and Hill on the origins of the project. To As for the plot, it was pure farce, — with graphic lines and prints. There of Drake’s “Hold On, We’re Going Home” summarize: Leon is friends with Jonze; and charming at that, the narrative of a were skirts and dresses. It was just hard by the cast, led by Fanning, who’s not Jonze is friends with Hill. Creative collective of lost souls, victims of their to notice when two Tony-winning actors only blessed with the face of an angel collaboration is the founding currency of own self-invention, ego and insecurity. are center stage. but the voice of one, too. Opening Ceremony’s enterprise. Leon and Lim obviously enjoyed poking Following a physical brawl over The lyrics “Just hold on, we’re Jonze stacked the cast with the kind fun at themselves and the industry. a mock love triangle between Brian, going home” sent a heartwarming of talent available to Oscar-winning In one scene, Humberto enters with Humberto and his husband, Brian poses message about community and filmmakers: John Cameron Mitchell as Brian and says, “OK, guys, the a--hole an existential question: When did life human connection. Or was it tacit Leon; Catherine Keener as Lim; Bobby and the d--khead have returned.”At the get so complicated? acknowledgement of another fashion Cannavale as Brian Molloy, their stylist; Alia suggestion that the collection could Humberto deadpans, “It’s weird…this inside joke? Clocking in at roughly 45 Shawkat as Dylan, their hipster assistant; use a little more sex appeal, Humberto whole collection is about that.” He goes minutes, “100% Lost Cotton” was pretty Elle Fanning as Julie, a naïve model just off erupts: “Guys want to f--k girls in my on to deliver the season’s inspiration in long by runway standards. But some the bus from the sticks; Dree Hemingway clothes, right? Dylan, have you got f--ked pure fashion-speak: “I don’t even know shows are worth the time. as Bella, a jaded, self-proclaimed “It” girl; in my clothes?” if it’s in there, but this whole collection — JESSICA IREDALE

14 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014 WWD.COM

Lela Rose Theory Milly by Dennis Michelle Basso Smith

Mark McNairy

Lela Rose: For spring, Lela Rose looked to references, from the use of mesh insets Japan for inspiration. She used traditional on tailored looks to Neoprene for sexy wood-cuts and water-flower prints for shoulder-baring tops. Many looks were her full-skirted kimono-esque shirts and draped to expose a lot of skin — clearly not coatdresses, embroidered mesh tops and for everyone — or featured bold graphics. cutout gowns. Rose also opted for polka More successful were the duo’s subtler riffs dots — sometimes mixed with florals, on the theme, as in the sporty striped knit sometimes solo — like the terrific, outsized dress featuring a multicolor fringe draped, dotted black-and-white organza coatdress. Grecian style, across the torso. She deftly handled a variety of skirt lengths ranging from an above-the-knee Milly by Michelle Smith: This nimble collection pencil shape to a full midcalf silhouette. by Michelle Smith proves that she’s not just SPRING 2015 Even the most ladylike looks had a treading water in the fiercely competitive decidedly sexy slant in this charming show. contemporary arena. Registering trends NEW YORK is a job requirement in this market, which BANICA Theory: The spring collection was Theory’s Smith did by framing athletic references, Alice + Olivia COLLECTIONS RODIN first by longtime design alum and former minimalism and maximal prints with BY vice president Lisa Kulson, who was hired sculpted silhouettes that packed a lot to take Olivier Theyskens’ place. Kulson’s of design. In the show’s notes, she also TITEL vision of the Theory customer manifested mentioned the influences of the conceptual in a relaxed, understated lineup done in art of Dan Graham, evident in the volume

neutrals and earth tones that will appeal to of a pretty mesh organza coat, and John IANNACCONE; the brand’s core customer, who wants a shot Baldessari, who inspired the bold cobalt blue, of fashion in her work clothes. She injected mint green and yellow that popped against a few pops of color and suede. The strongest the lineup’s baseline of black and white. THOMAS BY look combined both: a caramel suede coat over a white poplin shirt worn with orange Dennis Basso: Dennis Basso started his show pants that felt feminine and cool. Proportions with a moment of silence for his friend were kept loose — think oversize blazers with and customer, Joan Rivers. His spring wide trousers, tunics over A-line skirts and collection would likely have appealed to a particularly fetching pair of suede culottes the late comedian, who loved no-holds-

— and were styled mostly with flat sandals. barred glamour. MITRA;MCNAIRY ROBERT For after-hours, there were a few athletic- But Basso also wants to appeal to a inspired looks, including a white anorak and younger clientele, and the line took a a perforated leather shell. step in that direction. His inspiration was the jet-setters who frequented the Alice + Olivia: Inspired by a trip she took to Mediterranean resorts of the late Sixties. the Palace of Versailles with her mother “This woman wore shorts to dinner and and daughter, Stacey Bendet’s spring long dresses for lunch; she wore a fur shawl

collection was fit for “a modern-day court,” on the terrace in the middle of summer,” He BY THEORY GIANNONI; GIOVANNI as she put it. Bendet did what she does achieved this look in an easy and definitely best — party dresses and flirty, feminine more youthful way than in the past, with separates — and this season, the looks were embroidered rompers, a capri pants set and heavy on sparkle and beading with some a floaty hand-embroidered petal gown. His Seventies influence, like handkerchief fans know they can expect over-the-top furs hems, halter necklines and bell-bottoms. and he delivered, with a mink and broadtail Bendet also asked her friend, the mosaic tunic and an alligator and mink vest. artist Lola Schnabel, to create a colorful BASSOCHINSEE; GEORGE BY painting that she printed onto a folded silk Mark McNairy: Mark McNairy proved once blouse and skirt. again that he doesn’t take fashion — or The presentation was set up in a series of himself — too seriously with his irreverent Versailles-style vignettes — the garden, the logo T-shirts that featured such phrases as court and even a tea party, with one model “Filthy McNasty.” dressed in a Marie Antoinette ballgown and While those pieces may have been BY ROSE JOHN AQUINO; exaggerated 18th-century hairdo. humorous, the softly constructed suits, It was a lot of ideas at once, but taken sharply tailored double-breasted blazers apart, the pieces were highly wearable for and seersucker button-down shirts were no

Bendet’s unabashedly girly customer. joking matter. BY PHOTOS OLIVIA McNairy’s infusion of tie-dyes, Ohne Titel: The surfer girl informed Ohne camouflage and bold railroad stripes kept Ohne Titel designers Flora Gill and Alexa Adams’ the offering close to youth culture, as did Titel line for spring, and indeed, the duo packed an embossed leather jacket and sleeveless

their collection with obvious activewear ponyskin varsity bomber. + ALICE AND MILLY ForbesliFe.com noW liVe

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the moment she reached 1 million followers on Instagram last June. It was in the midst of the FASHION SCOOPS MEMO PAD couple’s breakup, where Ferragni posted an image with a caption letting her followers know the two had amicably decided to part ways. STRIKE A POSE: Coco Rocha turned up early for Carolina Herrera’s LOTS OF GREEN LETTUCE: Bloggers are a dime a There’s nothing like a romance — or the end of show Monday even though she was seated out front instead of dozen. Then there’s The Blonde Salad’s Chiara one — to spur traffic. walking the runway. The model has a new Harper Collins book Ferragni — whose stack of dimes is huge. Forget “One of the craziest reactions [to date] was due out late next month called “Strike A Pose,” 1,000 images of the bloggers who made headlines for reportedly the breakup post,” Ferragni told WWD, seated her leotard-wearing self in 1,000 different poses. “ Yo u can take raking in $1 million annually: Ferragni is on at the lobby of The Standard hotel before jetting whatever you want. Yo u can take it as the arts or find it as a gag,” track to generate revenues of 6 million euros, or off to the Diane von Furstenberg show. “When she said. “But the best part is we have a digital version. I was almost $8 million. I introduced my new boyfriend [on Instagram], shot on a rig with 100 cameras. And you can actually see me 360 It isn’t her blog that will do it, though. Only everyone was like ‘What! Whoa!’ ” Andrew Arthur, an and play around with each pose. So for the 1,000 poses we took about 30 percent of her revenues will come from L.A.-based photographer, is Ferragni’s new beau. 100,000 photos. So if you work as a sculptor or in clothing, you her blog, corresponding advertising or brand Pozzoli agreed. When Ferragni posts about can really see the shape of the body in any form. It’s not about collaborations. Unbeknownst to most, the majority her personal life, engagement climbs, whether fashion; it’s just about the body and its movement.” — or 70 percent — of Ferragni’s revenues this it’s photos with her mother or sisters or close-ups Photographer Steven Sebring captured year will come from her footwear, Chiara Ferragni of her makeup. A selfie she posted in February the former dancer’s agility and he also Collection, created in partnership with Lorenzo during Milan Fashion Week in a Roberto Cavalli Coco Barindelli Paolo Barletta developed the digital technology. “I love Rocha and . She is perhaps the first dress garnered 105,000 likes, and a portrait when fashion and technology meet. And blogger who has managed to parlay a personal Pozzoli shot of her several years ago wearing I’m known for posing and I used to dance style blog into a fully realized brand and global natural makeup received more than 100,000 so this was perfect,” she said. business. And once other bloggers see her sales, likes. A series of Mother’s Day images Ferragni Another familiar poser, Olivia Palermo, no doubt other they will flock to the strategy as shot with her mother in partnership with Louis also turned up for Herrera, who designed fast as they do to junkets. Vuitton in May were also popular. her wedding ensemble. In the preshow The Blonde Salad has been successful since Her “The Blonde Salad by Chiara Ferragni” scrum, one of China’s better-known its launch nearly half a decade ago, Ferragni Facebook page has more than 835,000 fans, actresses, Liya Tong, sat quietly by herself told WWD while in town for New York Fashion but it’s nowhere near as popular a social smiling. At work on a kung-fu film, which Week and a fete celebrating the blog’s five-year channel for her as Instagram. What is posted will be her tenth cinematic effort, Tong anniversary tonight at The Standard’s Le Bain. to Facebook more closely mirrors the content was the picture of contentment. Her With a strong creative and business team on Theblondesalad.com, with a few images of agent said, “She likes New York City very supporting Ferragni, the 14-person The Blonde Ferragni’s everyday life posted throughout. much. She likes the fashion and that the Salad Crew (or TBS Crew) — including Riccardo “If you really want to follow me and know people are very happy — free style.” Pozzoli, cofounder and general manager; Alessio what I’m doing, it’s Instagram. Yo u know which — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Sanzogni, communication city I’m in and what I’m

STEVE EICHNER and editorial manager, and doing. It’s almost in real Chiara Ferragni HIP TO BE SQUARE: Art is a magnet for Ferragni herself — decided time,” Ferragni said. outside the Raf Simons. So Dior’s artistic director to switch gears a year ago. Advertising has never PHOTO BY Derek Lam of women’s haute couture, ready-to- They changed the editorial been the main driver of show Sunday. wear and accessory collections should feel right at home come mission of the Web site by revenue for The Blonde Sept. 26, when he parades the French house’s spring 2015 rtw creating more independent Salad, Pozzoli said. The collection in a structure Dior plans to erect in the Cour Carrée content and decided to remaining 30 percent of the Louvre. The square courtyard in the palace’s western aggressively pursue the of revenues come from wing was previously used for fashion shows by sister company retail business. advertising and brand Louis Vuitton, which is decamping to the new Frank Gehry- Ferragni, who primarily partnerships (20 percent) designed Foundation Louis Vuitton, as reported. — MILES SOCHA splits her time between and collaborations Milan and Los Angeles, had (10 percent). TOMMY’S CROWD: Against a backdrop of Sgt. Pepper decor, been designing footwear in Views on The Blonde Tommy Hilfiger attracted several daughters of rock stars to his a small way for years, but Salad digital flagship are Monday morning show, including Alexandra Richards (daughter the team went full speed not growing as fast as of Keith Richards), Tali Lennox (daughter of Annie Lennox), Amber Le ahead with building out the Instagram, status quo in Bon (daughter of Simon Le Bon) and Tennessee Thomas (daughter of Chiara Ferragni Collection the blogosphere today. Pete Thomas). The elaborate rock-infused set featured 160,000 three seasons ago, raising The site does see a stable flowers that will be donated through the Hudson Guild to senior 1 million euros in funding flow of traffic — whereas citizens, said Hilfiger following the show. Hilfiger had a live from a private Italian Instagram increases band on the stage featuring Steve Hash, daughter Ally Hilfiger’s investor in the process. The followers by the thousands boyfriend, and Tara Ferry, son of Bryan Ferry. — LISA LOCKWOOD big rollout began with her daily — which has led the fall 2013 collection, and the TBS Crew to rethink how NICOLA ON THE SIDE: It’s not as though Nicola Formichetti doesn’t line of $220 to $500 shoes is they approach the blog. already have enough to do as artistic director for Diesel and now carried in almost 200 “Since we have seen styling such VIPs as Lady Gaga and as of late “his new muse” stores in 25 countries worldwide. The brand will this phenomenon — Chiara’s daily life [on the artist and musician Brooke Candy. But that didn’t deter launch in the U.S. with the spring 2015 season. Instagram] and the Web site — we don’t even call him from turning his Nicopanda label into a full-fledged 70- Ferragni also did a high-profile collaboration it [a] blog anymore. It’s more about stories and piece fashion collection from a cult cartoon label. Completely with Steve Madden that hit the market in February. inspiration,” Sanzogni said. The site, formerly separate from his Diesel gig, Nicopanda is something he A 10-style capsule collection sold 16,000 pairs in a more real-time destination (similar to what started as a hobby three years ago with more of a manga spin. just the first two weeks. Instagram has become), is now a place for posting The designer’s new take is “Harajuku “We didn’t have our shoes in the U.S. yet. It higher-quality content that is more produced. meets downtown New York,” and he was great to market myself as creative director “If I want to shoot my daily look I just put it on would know as someone with a Japanese- for shoes,” Ferragni said of the exposure she Instagram — not on the Web site. [That’s] more Italian heritage who divides his time gained in the U.S. as a result of working with for stories,” Ferragni said. between New York and London. Madden. She also worked with Superga on two Even the approach Ferragni takes with Opening Ceremony and Colette are among sneaker collections for summer and fall 2013, content creation on her site has changed. the first to commit to carrying the spring which sold out in a matter of weeks. She no longer does promoted editorial posts athletic-inspired unisex pieces. “Sports Pozzoli interjected to clarify that Chiara (sorry, brands). The lines between editorial never go out of trend and they are something Ferragni Collection is totally separate from The and paid content were getting too blurry and that boys and girls can wear. There’s just Blonde Salad collaborations. the team made a decision to keep Ferragni’s something in the air with sports, and people “It’s 100 percent made by our team. We are independence. Pozzoli said they stopped selling want to wear it, which is cool,” he said. “I managing these projects in a different way from editorial content last year. twist it with Harajuku princess details like the capsule collections,” Pozzoli said. Ferragni will not post content in exchange bows and girl ruffles.” He added: “For the first five years, we tried to for money, but she will partner with a brand in Striving to keep prices reasonable, keep the brand The Blonde Salad and Chiara as a more ambassadorlike capacity. This means shoppers will pay $95 for T-shirts and $195 strict as possible and close to the core mission. she might host an event on behalf of a brand for specialty sweatshirts. “The great thing Now we want to try to make it really a disruptive and publish a certain amount of Instagram about the price is that I want to keep it on A Nicola Formichetti business, driven by commerce.” posts that have been agreed upon — but this is the lower side. That is important,” he said. Nicopanda look. Pozzoli compared the TBS Crew’s approach separate from the editorial content produced for “I didn’t want to do anything expensive just to that of Asos — except it’s the reverse. The Theblondesalad.com. for the sake of it. I think it’s cool that everyone can get it and e-tailer started with commerce and branched “We showcase whatever Chiara feels like wear it.” — R . F. into content, but Pozzoli wants to do it the [wearing] through collaborations with brands,” opposite way — on a more premium level. Sanzogni explained, noting that Ferragni has DAGNE DOVER RAISES $1.3M IN SEED ROUND: Functional handbag The two stress the importance of the team, strong relationships with fashion houses like startup Dagne Dover has raised nearly $1.3 million in a seed who in addition to producing the blog, managing, Chanel and Louis Vuitton. “We select what round of financing. marketing and doing p.r. for Ferragni and Chiara content we want to work on or if she is wearing it. Founded two years ago by Melissa Mash, the firm seeks to Ferragni Collection also help manage her It’s her choice to wear something or [participate] provide what it calls practical luxury for working women — social media channels — which is no small task. if she likes the project.” currently tote bags with an organizational system built into them Ferragni reached 2 million Instagram followers For example, Ferragni was paid on behalf of for storage of keys, a laptop, wallet, water bottle and cell phone. in February, and during New York Fashion Week, Montblanc to host an event and post a certain Seed funding provided by angels — David Bell (an investor in she is approaching 2.8 million. She gets 4,000 number of Instagram posts. But the series of Warby Parker and Bonobos), David Williams (of 2020 Ventures, whose to 5,000 new followers a day — and, at that rate, photos Louis Vuitton shot of Ferragni and her portfolio includes Rent the Runway, The RealReal, Bow & Drape should hit 3 million by the time Paris Fashion mother for Mother’s Day was unpaid. The latter and Zady) and Fabrice Grinda (an angel investor in more than 150 Week winds down in October. was more about creating a story in a “beautiful startups including intimates firm Adore Me) — will help to expand Ferragni and business partner Pozzoli (who way,” Ferragni said. Sorry, Mom. inventory and hire additional staffing. — VICKI M. YOUNG also happens to be her ex-boyfriend) remember — RACHEL STRUGATZ WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014 17 WWD.COM

TEXTILES New Wave in Global Sourcing Emerging

that has been in business for 26 Pizarro, director of marketing at packaging of denim, decided to By KHANH T.L. TRAN years in Mexico, tried to capital- the family-owned company es- take part in the new denim area ize on its eco-friendly processes tablished 31 years ago. to pick up its first U.S. customer. LAS VEGAS — In a sign of an im- such as water-saving dyeing and The concentration of booths in In business for 11 years, the com- proving economy, factories and ozone treatments. the denim section helped poten- pany has been able to grow by of- customers looked beyond price “Our response time is much tial customers like Alyssa Whaley, fering not only credit to long-term to critical factors such as flexibil- faster than [China’s],” said a retailer from Dallas who aims customers but also fashion at a ity, quality, service and speed to Christian Brito, Dipoint’s produc- to introduce a private-label line sharp price, such as distressed market at Sourcing at MAGIC. tion and sales manager for exports. of jeans, skirts and dresses by acid-washed boyfriend jeans that At the four-day trade fair Portugal’s Pizarro SA, came to the beginning of next year for her cost $7 apiece. Still, it has had held last month at the Las Vegas the U.S. for the first time to pro- store Champagne Thursdays. “I to contend with a 10 percent in- Convention Center, exhibitors ap- mote its EcoWash that can save up really need flexibility,” she said, crease in labor costs every year. pealed to attendees on a number to 70 liters of water per garment “someone who is willing to work “It’s very competitive,” said of issues. C&E Apparel Inc., a by using a combination of dry ice, with me as I start out.” Serena Li, sales manager at

ozone and laser technology. Dongguan Gangtian Textile & Dongguan Gangtian. “Customers JONES KATIE New York company that imports The Made in USA section at “We feel a need to show peo- Garment Co., a Chinese company are always looking for a cheap yoga clothing and activewear Sourcing at MAGIC. made in Indonesia, China and ple what we can do,” said Vasco that handles cutting, sewing and price with better quality.” Vietnam, drastically lowered its PHOTO BY minimum for orders to 1,000 from 10,000. Parker Island Gator Farm from Lake Placid, Fla., was on a mission to promote alligator skin as a luxury for everyone. Baltic Sewing Co. ensured the use of European Union-made materials in the outerwear it makes while setting no minimum quantity. “We try to accept every order,” said Benas Vaiciukas, managing director at Baltic Sewing, with clients that in- clude U.K.-based Aquascutum and Sweden’s Filippa K. Without a strict adherence to prices, trends like domestic pro- duction got a boost. “We feel it’s trending back to making things here, even with the minimum wage rising,” said Mike Basteguian, president of Made-Well-LA, which highlight- ed its design, development and production services in the Made in USA section at the expo. Despite the surge of inter- est in U.S. production, China continued to dominate the show with its sheer number of exhibi- tors specializing in various cat- egories, whether it be denim, lingerie, textiles or sportswear. The Shenzhen International Brand Underwear Fair held run- way shows organized with the China Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Textiles. To drum up more business, several Chinese companies offered in- centives, such as a gift at a café after visits to at least two booths in the Premier China zone. EPSON QUALITY AND RELIABILITY. Designers like Kirat Anand, founder of women’s sportswear NOW IN A DYE SUBLIMATION PRINTER. and swim label KAS New York, took advantage of the English- The Epson name has long stood for the very highest standards of print speaking staff at the Chinese performance, quality and reliability. Now we’re putting our expertise booths to plan a tour of textile mills and manufacturers in China into an exciting new suite of garment printers. Designed exclusively that will complement the facto- for dye sublimation transfer printing with specially formulated Epson ries he currently uses in India. inks, the all-new SureColor® F-Series delivers superior print quality Other nations consolidat- ed their vendors to showcase along with the world-class service you’ve come to expect from Epson. the best. Taiwan, Indonesia, The new Epson SureColor F-Series. Better performance. More profit. Bangladesh and South To learn more, visit proimaging.epson.com America’s Andean region were some of the sponsors of country- specific quarters. Vietnam re- turned with a pavilion of its own after participating in the ASEAN section two years ago with other Southeast Asian countries such as Thailand. For the first time, in lieu of a country of focus, Sourcing highlighted a single category — Epson SureColor F6070 - 44" Epson SureColor F7170 - 64" denim. Chinese mill Freedom $8,495* $19,995* Denim made its Las Vegas debut. Brito, a Mexican cut-and- sew factory that also weaves 0653EHIRUHUHEDWHV3OHDVHFKHFNZLWKDQ(SVRQ3URIHVVLRQDO,PDJLQJ$XWKRUL]HG5HVHOOHUIRUDFWXDOSULFHDVGHDOHUSULFHV PD\YDU\(3621DQG6XUH&RORUDUHUHJLVWHUHGWUDGHPDUNVDQG(3621([FHHG

TEXTILES diversify sourcing, with Indonesia and Vietnam the rising stars, said Pasquet. He also cited an “interesting move” to- ward Africa, especially Ethiopia, where Chinese groups are making substantial PV Taking United Stance With Pluriel investments to create an alternative pro- duction base. The executive noted that the Chinese By PAULINA SZMYDKE September will see the union of all six Première Vision shows in one group. domestic market is of particular impor-

HABERER tance to P V, as its customers are getting PARIS — Première Vision SA continues more sophisticated. to create synergies between its shows. ELISA “Chinese professionals today are The textile fair’s fall edition, slated AND keener to travel to get new ideas and to run from Sept. 16 to 18 at the Parc materials,” Pasquet said. “We started d’Expositions in Paris Nord Villepinte, promoting PV in China around the year will for the first time unite all six trade KOSSMANN 2000. Last September, China ranked sev- shows featured under the Première enth among the visiting countries. We are

Vision Pluriel banner — Première very optimistic about the prospects.” Vision, Expofil, Indigo, Modamont, Cuir à STÉPHANE According to Première Vision’s fash- Paris and Zoom by Fatex — as part of one ion director, Pascaline Wilhelm, textile group, following the acquisition of Cuir à DURAND, trends for this season’s edition will cen- Paris in March. ter on three themes: “high volume,” “sim- Cuir à Paris, a leather and fur show ply fancy” and “chaotic allure.” “Volume that boasts annual sales of 6 million SA/FRANÇOIS is a strong theme’’ this fall-winter season, euros, or $7.9 million at current ex- boasting a high level of innovation,” in- change, has turned into a strategic part- VISION cluding separable double-faced fabrics, ner, reflecting the growing importance of she said. leather goods in fashion. Wilhelm described knits as “savage, “When Cuir à Paris joined PV in 2005, PREMIÈRE with an aggressive touch, which gives BY it was considered a crazy move,” said them more character,” and said to watch Philippe Pasquet, chief executive officer out for highly distressed denim. “All in PHOTOS of Première Vision. “Today, leather goods all, the surface is much worked this fall are considered fashion items. They have Separately, Zoom, specialized in fash- Among the weavers, four Italians — and creativity expressed via technique,” become important elements in the luxury ion manufacturing, will move to Hall 6 Lanificio Angelico, Lanificio Fratelli she said. business, driving major retailers’ sales. from Hall 2 to be closer to the weavers, Bacci, Lanificio Paultex and PTC SRL As for color, yellow, mustard, beige And we consider these fashion brands as providing a clearer reading on the selec- — will be back at the fair after several and camel are expected to top buyers’ a market [of its own].” tion and aiming to boost alliances be- seasons’ absence. shopping lists, while various shades of The move is expected to streamline tween the two sectors. The Paris textile show is also up- red are also to make a mark. logistics and provide a more comprehen- So far, more than 1,947 participants ping its creativity factor with the ar- sive offering, along with a more selective have been confirmed for the six shows rival of 22 new participants at Indigo. choice of exhibitors. combined. This represents a stable de- This season, Spanish studio Toc de Although Cuir à Paris has shown steady velopment compared with last year. Groc, specialized in children’s wear, The U.S. is really growth in past seasons, this edition’s pre- Some 786 are to show at Première Vision, and Historic British studio Palm registration numbers are slightly in de- which will see 44 new names, including Designs will fete their return to PV’s back. It’s our strongest cline, mirroring the organizers’ strategy 19 knitters specialized in creative flatbed creative textile and surface design to push for more quality. Some 430 leather knits and to be integrated into the grow- platform, which is quickly gaining a specialists are expected at the fair. ing Knitwear Solutions platform. following among fashion brands. overseas market, The ensemble of fairs, which gen- erated revenues of 48.7 million euros, ahead of China, Japan or $67 million, in 2013, is most popular among French, Italian, U.K., German and Korea. and American visitors. “The U.S. is really back. It’s our stron- — PHILIPPE PASQUET, gest overseas market, ahead of China, Japan and Korea,” said Pasquet, also PREMIÈRE VISION pointing to Première Vision New York, its sister fair, which took place in July Pasquet added that the fair’s main and saw a 7 percent uptick in visitors. objective was “to bring in something Overseas countries currently account lively and maintain a high level of re- for one quarter of all PV Paris visitors. newal,” which at this session will result According to Pasquet, Europe is also in a 3-D printing corner at Modamont, PV getting back on track, albeit at a much Pluriel’s show for accessories and com- slower pace than the U.S., while Brazil, ponents. Russia and Ukraine rank among the “This new technology is rapidly enter- weaker players. ing the accessories manufacturing sec- “There are no dramatic changes, but tor, producing items such as buttons and the economic and political situation in buckles, bringing an important advantage Brazil is a burden, and yes, the indus- into the development,” he noted. try will suffer a bit from the tensions in The executive was also enthused Eastern Europe,” he said. “Ukraine has about the first edition of Première’’ Vision always been an important production Istanbul, slated to run from Oct. 29 to 31. base and subcontractor for Europe and “We have reached our goal of providing a Russia. Some orders are shifting from truly international offer, assembling both Ukraine to alternative sources such Turkish and international manufactur- as Bulgaria. It’s difficult to assess how ers,” said Pasquet. long it will last, but the latest news has Some 150 participants will be on the not been very good.” initial rooster, including Italy’s Marzotto In general, the industry is looking to and France’s Malhia Kent.

PV Pluriel is pushing for more synergies and a more comprehensive offer. WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014 19 WWD.COM

INNOVATIONS Texworld is growing its quality offering. SEPTEMBER 2014

PRECIOSA Crystal Components is happy to bring you Texworld Takes to the Runway the second new product Innovations for this year. We are introducing a new Rose Opal shade, an impressive as a “psychological factor” likely to have an im- Crystal Starlight Gold coating, newly expanded premium By PAULINA SZMYDKE pact on individual companies.

MAXIMA product line and two new cup shapes in the “A shift of 1 percent can hurt a small manufac- PARIS — Building on his strategy to push turer, but it will not have any major impact on the Stones in Fancy Settings line. Texworld and Apparel Sourcing in a more fash- market as a whole,” he said. “People still need to We wish you a colourfully inspired season with the ion-forward direction, Michael Scherpe, presi- get dressed. However, I am glad our show takes Preciosa September 2014 Innovations! dent of Messe Frankfurt France, is turning to a place later on in September. This gives people familiar tool this fall season to keep the energy time to calm down following a turbulent summer.” going: fashion shows.’’ Apparel Sourcing in particular is expected to “It’s nothing revolutionary, business is not flourish, this season registering a 46 percent jump done via revolution but stability, and I don’t know in exhibitor numbers compared with last year. whether we will do this every season, but the Dedicated to finished products and fashion acces- fashion shows are meant to inspire — both buyers sories, Apparel Sourcing is now the largest show and exhibitors,” Scherpe told WWD. of its kind in Europe, according to Scherpe. The Paris textile fair, slated to run Sept. 15 to 18 at Apparel Sourcing in Paris competed with Le Bourget exhibition center, is to showcase five dif- sourcing trade shows that took place in Germany, ferent runway collections: French designer Eymeric but Scherpe feels it has become a top event, François; third-year students of Paris fashion school boasting the largest number of exhibitors for an Esmod, who are said to present their knitwear cre- exhibition of its type in Europe. ations; Maël Larcher and Marie-Morgane Dumont, “Paris is the place to be, with more than 300 both winners of the 2014 International Festival of exhibitors from 15 different countries,” he said. Young Designers in Dinard, which Texworld spon- “And there is still room for growth. It’s really an sors, and 2010 Dinard laureate Manix Wong. emerging event.” He added that being in Paris is crucial for companies if they want to stay competitive. “We had exhibitors who thought it would be Paris is the place to be, with enough for them if they showed at Texworld U.S. only, but they came back,” Scherpe said. “They more than 300 exhibitors realized Europe is the most complicated and demanding market. If you want to play in the from 15 different countries. A-league, you need to be here.” He said both fairs would strive to put more focus on quality, adding, “This is nothing surpris- And there is still room ing. Everybody wants good quality at a good price, but we are also talking quality of logistics, which for growth. It’s really an includes reliable delivery.” To help newcomers, of which there will be 100 emerging event. at Apparel Sourcing alone, Messe Frankfurt is of- fering consulting services. — MICHAEL SCHERPE, Sustainability continues to be high on the fairs’ agenda, too. This season’s conferences will focus MESSE FRANKFURT FRANCE on eco-certificates, opportunities and challenges of doing business in East Africa and an up-and- There will also be a show featuring the de- coming textile market, but also tackle a sensitive signs of manufacturers presenting at Shawls & subject — the costs of eco-friendly production. Scarves, a new target area to be to located be- “It’s a matter of sharing responsibility,” tween Texworld and Apparel Sourcing. Scherpe said. “If the retailer does not tell the “It’s a category for which we have registered consumer that he has to pay his share as well, a strong demand. Every woman likes to have a there will never be a balance. When you look at Pashmina. It’s one of the strongest brands in the what companies such as Lenzing have invested world, much like Woolmark or Coca-Cola, yet in their plants and what innovation they provide, there is no single place for buyers to go,” said you wonder why our clothes are still this cheap.” Scherpe, noting that products in the category are Louis Gerin, Texworld’s art director, said there usually scattered across several fairs. would be “a lot of innovation in the treatment Messe Frankfurt France has assembled 25 com- of fibers, with a vivid color palette” this season, panies, mostly Indian, spanning from’’ the lower to which prompted the organizers to compile a 60- the higher end of the market, with artisans and page “fabrics report,” comprising 140 highlights industrial manufacturers on board. from the fair, to be distributed to visitors. Preciosa Customer Centre In total, some 885 exhibitors from 28 countries Among the standouts, Gerin cited Taiwanese Opletalova 3197, 466 67 Jablonec nad Nisou are expected to take part in the Texworld fair, Hyperbola Textile, which offers a large range Czech Republic 2 percent more than a year ago, with Sri Lanka of technical fabrics destined for high-end casu- [email protected] making its debut via Brandix, a local textile giant. alwear, a rising trend, as well as Baeksan from China, South Korea and Turkey remain the fair’s South Korea. Other trends likely to catch the eye top participating countries. are micro prints, 3-D effects and volume. www.preciosa.com Scherpe said he was fairly upbeat about the Exhibitors and visitors will be able to ex- upcoming session, but he described the ongoing change their latest finds and news in the new political and economic uncertainty in the world Social Media Lounge. 20 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014 Brands in the Crosshairs: Privat

{Continued from page one} as well as in your stores, maybe that by Amazon. We view fashion as one trend isn’t great for some of the mid- 3i Group of those.” level guys that have a ton of assets Headquarters: Norwest is looking at omnichan- spread out all across the country,” London nel potential and at offline brands he said. Key Players: Simon Borrows, ceo; Menno Antal that can expand digitally and brands But investing on the high end, in and Alan Giddins, private that can project their power in particular, brings greater fashion equity heads stores and online. risk and the need for expertise. Investments: Agent Strong brands are having a heyday. Jason Wu last week sold a control- That’s because brands increas- ling stake in his firm to InterLuxe, Provocateur, Hobbs ingly have to play in more than one a new investment house chaired venue and resonate in stores, online, by factor Gary Wassner and backed Advent International in the blogosphere and beyond. by Lee Equity. This brings together Headquarters: Boston

And although many might think Lee’s money as well as the exper- Key Players: of investors as weighed down with tise of Allen Questrom, who works Peter Brooke, chairman; David spreadsheets, private equity compa- with the private equity firm, and Mussafer, managing partner; Steven Collins, nies are often very attuned to brands, Wassner’s insight as a financier to managing keenly aware for instance, that logos many New York designers. director have lost their luster of late. And Wu isn’t a one-off for Investments: “You’ve got to’’ figure out another InterLuxe, which is looking to build way to get that brand connectiv- a portfolio. Wassner said the venture Lululemon, ity because people also want to started off with a list of hundreds of Charlotte Russe, Douglas Group; have their own style,” said John brands and is being whittled down to Dudalina Coyle, head of the New York office a small group of potential investment of Permira, which has investments partners. “I’m at fashion week and Apax Partners in Hugo Boss and Dr. Martens and I’m looking at every brand,” he said. Headquarters: Targeting was said at one point to be look- He has plenty of company. London ing at investing in Roberto Cavalli. Saks Fifth Avenue veteran Ron Key Players: Mitch Truwit and “Individualism is important and Frasch, who’s now an operating Andrew Sillitoe, co-ceo’s; John that’s tough to do if you’ve got a big partner at Castanea Partners, is also Megrue, chairman, Apax Partners logo stamped on it.” at New York Fashion Week — and U.S. Coyle said Permira is “selectively he’s very much keeping his eyes Fashion Investments: bullish” given the never-sure eco- peeled for potential deals. Frasch Rue21, Cole Haan, nomic outlook. last week made his first deal as part Takko Fashion, Karl Lagerfeld, New Look You want to be somewhere on the higher Ares Management Headquarters: Los Angeles side or the lower side. It may be more Key Players: Antony Ressler, ceo; David Kaplan, senior partner difficult to be in the middle. Investments: Neiman Marcus, 99 Cent Only — STEVEN COLLINS, ADVENT INTERNATIONAL Stores Bedrock Manufacturing “If we get it wrong, we want to of the fund when Castanea invested Headquarters: get it wrong with companies that are in Aurora Brands, which owns Jay Plano, Tex. going to withstand the recession,” he Strongwater and MacKenzie-Childs. Key Player: Heath Carr, ceo said. “ Yo u have to be a bit more se- “Luxury is a good place to be,” Investments: Shinola, Filson, lective in what you buy in a market Frasch said. “People want the finer Jams like today, which is more expensive things in life. Some [brands] have than it was a couple years ago.” a lot of permission to expand the Blackstone Steven Collins, managing director products they design. It’s a big world at Advent International, which just and we want to play with brands that Headquarters: New York invested in Lululemon Athletica Inc. could be distributed globally.” Key Player: Stephen Schwarzman, ceo Front Row Partners for the second time, said the action Frasch said Castanea is betting on Investments: Crocs, Jack Headquarters: New York; Partnership with in fashion is on the two ends of the businesses and talent. Wolfskin, Versace price spectrum. “We have to be involved’’ and en- Berkshire Partners “ Yo u want to be somewhere on gaged,” he said. “We have no intention Key Player: Glen Senk, ceo Castanea Partners the higher side or the lower side,” of running it. That’s why we’re invest- Investment: Opening Collins said. “It may be more diffi- ing in it. We believe in the team.” Headquarters: Newton, Mass. Ceremony cult to be in the middle.” Glen Senk, who is ceo of Front Row Key Players: Brian Knez and Robert Smith, He attributed part of that to the Partners, an investment firm tied to omnichannel trend. Berkshire Partners, is also looking for managing partners; Ron Frasch and Janet General Atlantic “Being able to sell things online expertise and individuality. Gurwitch, operating partners Headquarters: New York Investments: Aurora Brands Key Players: William Ford, ceo; Andrew Crawford, (MacKenzie-Childs and Jay manging director Glen Senk’s Front Row Strongwater), Ippolita Investments: Tory Burch, Partners’ first bet was on Gilt Groupe, And Designs Opening Ceremony. Catterton Partners Headquarters: Greenwich, Conn. Golden Gate Capital Key Players: J. Michael Chu and Scott Dahnke, Headquarters: San Francisco managing partners Key Players: David Dominik, Josh Olshansky and Investments: Josh Cohen, managing directors John Hardy, Investments: Ann StriVectin, The Taylor, Eddie Bauer, Worth Collection, J. Jill, Pacific Sunwear, Cover FX Zale, Express Carlyle Group Goode Partners Headquarters: New York Headquarters: New York Key Players: Bill Conway and David Rubenstein, Key Players: David Oddi, co-ceo’s Ron Beegle, Joe Ferreira and Investments: Keith Miller, partners ADA Cosmetics, Investments: AllSaints, Savers Sneaker Villa

WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014 21 WWD.COM e Equity Sets Sights on ’’ Fashion

“I am always attracted to attorney at Hand Baldachin Lion Capital people who have their own Amburgey with many fashion North Star,” said Senk, who clients, said he advises design- Headquarters: London has served as ceo of David ers to “be mindful of the inves- Key Player: Lyndon Lea, partner Yurman and Urban Outfitters tor’s anticipated exit.” Investments: AllSaints, John Varvatos, Perricone, Inc. “I’m attracted to people “Understand that institu- American Apparel who are smart. There’s more tional venture and private complexity today than there equity investors have an in- probably ever has been. Yo u vestment horizon and are Norwest Venture Partners have to have expertise across beholden to their limited Headquarters: Palo Alto, Calif., venture and so many functions in the busi- partners to execute on it — growth equity firm ness, you have to understand meaning, in most cases, they Key Players: Promod Haque, senior managing partner; Sonya Brown and Josh Goldman, general partners; Jeff Crowe, managing partner It’s a big world and we want to Investments: Kendra Scott, Gilt Groupe, ModCloth, Madison Reed, Fashion and You, play with brands that could be Bailey44; RetailMeNot Permira Advisers distributed globally. There are lots of Headquarters: London — RON FRASCH, CASTANEA PARTNERS investors looking to Key Players: Thomas Lister and Kurt Björklund, fashion, many of them co-managing partners; Cheryl Potter, John Coyle with extremely deep and Martin Weckwerth, partners. finances, supply, design, mar- will look to grow the value of pockets. Private equity Investments: Dr. Martens, keting, distribution, e-com- the business over a three- to Hugo Boss, New Look merce, digital….” five-year period to prepare it companies alone have Joseph Lamastra, ceo of for a sale or IPO where they more than $1.2 trillion Sandbridge Capital Sandbridge Capital, said get a return on their original he counts on advisers such investment,” he said. “This to spend overall, Headquarters: New York and Los Angeles as former Gucci Group ceo may or may not be consistent according to Preqin. Key Player: Joseph Lamastra, ceo Domenico De Sole and Tommy with a founder’s or designer’s Investments: Derek Lam, Hilfiger to help find invest- long-term goals.” Topshop, Tamara Mellon, Karl ments. Sandbridge has been A big return is definitely active in the designer space, going to be among the inves- Lagerfeld investing in the Karl Lagerfeld tor’s long-term goals. brand and Derek Lam, ’’ Sun Capital Partners but Lamastra said the Headquarters: Boca Raton, Fla. company is also looking Key Players: at the broader consumer Rodger Krouse and Marc Leder, world and has invested co-ceo’s in Bonobos. Investments: Vince, Kellwood Co. “We are looking for companies that we be- Sycamore lieve are in a growth Partners mode or on the verge of a growth mode and need Headquarters: New York capital,” said Lamastra. Key Player: Stefan Kaluzny, managing partner Investors in general Investments: Jones New York, Kurt Geiger, Hot have become more com- Topic, Stuart Weitzman, Talbots, Aéropostale, fortable with the vicissi- tudes of the industry. Coldwater Creek, Nine West Holdings “There is an increas- ing appetite for fashion TA Associates risk, in part because InterLuxe Headquarters: Boston some folks have expe- Key Player: rienced success in the Headquarters: New York; backed by William Nutt, chairman Investments: category,” said Andrew Lee Equity Dutch, Zadig Crawford, who heads Key Players: Gary Wassner, chairman; Melissa Beste, ceo; & Voltaire General Atlantic’s retail Cliff Moskowitz, president and consumer business Three Oceans Partners as managing director. Investment: Jason Wu Headquarters: “There’s the natural New York churn of a few new en- Irving Place Capital Key Players: David Knowlton, managing partner; trants and a few of the Headquarters: New York William Detwiler and Jennifer Doré Russo, established players not Key Player: John Howard, ceo partners being as active.” Investments: General Atlantic, Investments: Rag & Bone, CAbi, New York & Co., which already has in- Proenza Schouler (a personal Tory Burch, vestments in Tory investment by Howard) Strom, Burch and Gilt Groupe, BeautyCounter is ramping up, having KKR brought Crawford on Towerbrook Capital Partners board this year to ex- Headquarters: New York Headquarters: pand in the consumer Key Players: Henry Kravis, George Roberts, co-ceo’s; Nate London and New York and retail area. On av- Key Players: Taylor, head of consumer Neal Moszkowski and Ramez erage, General Atlantic Investments: China Outfitters, Sousou, co-ceo’s holds on to an invest- Investments: True Religion, Kaporal, Phase Eight ment for six to seven Sandro/Maje, Maxeda, Academy years, longer than is Sports & Outdoors TPG typical for many private equity companies. Leonard Green & Partners Headquarters: Fort “We typically invest Headquarters: Los Angeles Worth $50 million to $600 million Key Players: of equity — and can invest Key Players: John Danhakl and Jonathan David Bonderman and James Coulter, founders in a deep minority posi- Sokoloff, managing partners tion or buy 100 percent of Investments: Investments: Li Ning, a company,” he said. Jason Wu sold Authentic Brands Group, control of his David’s Bridal, J. Crew, Lucky Brand, E.l.f. Cosmetics, J. Crew, More investors are Haute Hippie (a personal open to having some- firm to Gary Savers, Topshop, Tourneau Wassner’s GIANNONI GIOVANNI investment by Bonderman) thing less than control of a company. InterLuxe.

Douglas Hand, an PHOTO BY 22 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014

Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow Nicki Minaj in Versus eye Versace.

Veni, Vidi, Vici

Nicky Hilton, Diane von Furstenberg and Paris Hilton. ON THE FOURTH NIGHT of New York look in the booth’s direction over people Fashion Week, the circus came to town. much taller than himself. Donatella Versace dragged everyone to the Around the same time, Diane von big tent she’d set up in a part of Hell’s Furstenberg’s comfort food at her annual Kitchen in Manhattan best known for the postshow dinner in her Meatpacking District seedy, bridge-and-tunnel nightclub Pacha studio was a soothing alternative to the din and industrial warehouses. over at Versace. Paris and Nicky Hilton, Ellen The top-billed act was the Anthony Barkin, Allison Williams, Fran Lebowitz, Stephen Dorff Vaccarello x Versus Versace line, but that and Jade Jagger all stopped by to congratulate was a mere footnote to the spectacle that the designer and carbo-load. “This push-up surrounded it, and maybe that’s how it was bra is insane,” the older Hilton huffed (in her intended anyway. real voice!) while adjusting her décolletage. “I love Versace, I love Donatella,” said Von Furstenberg herself was feeling Zen, the young actress Bella Thorne when asked relieved even, one might say. “It feels right,” about her impression of the Versus line. she said when asked about her new artistic The presentation was preceded by little director Michael Hertz. “[He] works so well bursts of activity in the front row, each with the whole design team so I think, I one bigger than the one before, like the think…” she paused. “I’m afraid to say it, but tremors leading to an earthquake: First, it I think it’s the beginning of a new era. I think, was the young stars, Phoebe Tonkin and Nina I hope, it’s the beginning of a new era.” Dobrev; then Carmelo Anthony, Jennifer Hudson Equally low-key was the cast party for and Miguel, and later Nicki Minaj. Then, Opening Ceremony’s play, “100% Lost Cotton,” the big one, the one off the Richter at 42West at the Out Hotel. The sprawling scale: Rihanna, who set off a brief dance floor was packed with people meltdown among photographers listening to one DJ Mustard, but the by posing with Naomi Campbell. real cast party was taking place in an Every one of these people had adjacent private room with Spike Jonze, Allison manifested at earlier fashion Jonah Hill, Dakota and Elle Fanning, Dree Williams shows, but the glare of their Hemingway, Michael Cera, Jamie Bell, Chloë celebrity was amplified in the Sevigny and Rosario Dawson. There were mirror-covered fun house that two guys who seemed to stick out, passed as the runway. Win Butler of Arcade Fire and Ezra “It’s really intense right Koenig of Vampire Weekend. “I’ve now,” said the DJ known got a lot of buddies involved,” as Skrillex. Koenig said. Alia Shawkat’s At an after party involvement in the production upstairs, Versace’s first stop had come fairly simply. “I got on her rounds was by the a text message from Spike that bleachers, where Minaj said, ‘Hey, do you want to do this was holding court. Here’s a play that me and Jonah wrote?’” testament to the power of she said. “We rehearsed in a celebrity: Perched between sweaty warehouse for five days the singer and the designer and I had to learn a Drake song, were Christine Schwarzman and then I got a really cool Miguel and her multibillionaire letterman jacket with my name and Skrillex husband Stephen. It made on it by OC.” for an incredible tableau: Further downtown, Public The singer of “Anaconda” School’s after party looked Naomi Campbell, in Versace, and one of the richest like the set of “Scarface.” with Donatella Versace. men in America and his The Gilded Lily was covered, wife. What was Christine top to bottom, in piles and Schwarzman doing there? piles of white, but it was “My husband invested just a visual pun — confetti, in Versace,” she said, just like at the brand’s runway although she’s a fan of the presentation earlier. Two assistants brand —Schwarzman wore an were responsible for manning a above-the-knee, studded leather leaf blower to create the illusion of dress. “The sexier the better,” falling snow for the crowd dancing she said. to Twin Shadow that included Russell By around 9 p.m., both Westbrook, James Murphy, Gigi Hadid, Joe Minaj and Rihanna had left the Jonas and Daniel Arsham. When Maxwell building and the seat of power Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow finally made moved to Versace’s booth, where their appearance at their party, they she took in a performance by St. were welcomed like homecoming Vincent accompanied by Campbell, kings, so it was fitting that they had a Hudson, Pat McGrath and Anja Rubik. full marching band, Brooklyn United, The Schwarzmans were on the perform all over the cavernous sidelines and the private equity underground venue at top volume, all Alexa kingpin, who could buy and sell Rihanna while confetti rained over them. Chung everyone in that room twice in Versus — ERIK MAZA, TAYLOR HARRIS over, was resigned to longingly Versace. AND LAUREN MCCARTHY WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014 23 WWD.COM

Dree Hemingway, John Cameron Mitchell and Spike Jonze. Zegna, Maserati Team on Car NEW YORK — It’s so limited that not Shanghai in July and will host two others, even Gildo Zegna can get one. in Dubai and Milan, next year. Wester Tonight, Zegna, chief executive of- said that 20 people have already come ficer of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, forward and are ready to buy one of the and Harald Wester, ceo of Maserati, will cars, and more than 100 others have ex- host a party at Industria Superstudio pressed interest. “But before signing the here to show off the new limited-edition contract, they want to touch it,” he said. Maserati Quattroporte by Ermenegildo Those who do pony up the $175,000 Zegna. The event — one of 100 — is aptly — the price represents a 20 to 25 per- named since there are only 100 of the cent premium over the cost of a regu- cars being produced. lar Quattroporte sedan — also receive The luxury sedan, which will retail a special gift in the trunk: an Owner’s for $175,000, features a special “plati- Collection assortment of Zegna leather num silk” finish for the body and wheels goods that includes four travel bags, a that employ aluminum pigments so the pair of sunglasses, a journal and a bolt of car looks silver, beige or gray depending the same fabric used in the car that can upon the angle. The interior offers a cus- be crafted into a made-to-measure suit. tom mocha and gray her- ringbone silk fabric, pro- The Maserati Quattroporte duced at Zegna’s woolen by Ermenegildo Zegna. mills in Trivero, Italy, for the door panels, roof lin- ing and sun visors, and there’s a label on the back of the visor that SCOTT RUDD reads: “Ermenegildo

Zegna Exclusively for PHOTO BY Maserati.” The seats have a panel of 100 percent silk chevron To commemorate the special car, Jamie Chung Christine and Stephen Schwarzman set into the grain leather, and the rest Zegna and Maserati have commissioned of the interior is a blend of leather and Italian photographer Fabrizio Ferri to chrome. There’s also a brass plate set into photograph 100 prominent people — 25 the central console that denotes the car as at each of the four cities where the events “Limited Edition One of 100.” will be held — who use their hands for “This is a great way to collaborate their crafts. Portraits and close-ups of with another well-known Italian brand their hands will be compiled into a “One and show the best of Made in Italy [de- of 100” book, along with photos of the car sign],” Zegna told WWD during a pre- and the Owner’s Collection, that will be view of the car on Monday. Maserati is completed for the Milan event in spring. celebrating its centennial this year, four But with only 100 cars in the world, will years after Zegna marked the same mile- Zegna wind up driving one around Italy? stone for its company, which was anoth- “There are not enough,” he said. “We need er reason for the partnership, he said. to leave them for our special guests.” The companies held an event in — JEAN E. PALMIERI

Rashida Jones, Ezra Koenig, Nadia Rangel and Jonah Hill.

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