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SWEDISHthe destinations of LAPLAND YOUR ARCTIC DESTINATION Kayaking routes of Luleå archipelago Photo: Jacob Nilsson THE LULEÅ ARCHIPELAGO A PART OF THE BOTHNIAN ARCHIPELAGO This guide describes paddling R Å N E ÄL routes around Luleå and Råneå. VE N SIKNÄS RÅNEÅ KÄNGSN JÄMTN The routes are varied in difficulty PÅLÄNG but they all lead to beautiful, exciting islands. 11 Luleå archipelago is part of the Bothnian archi- BOCK- pelago, which stretches from Skellefteå in the 10 N SUNDOM Cottages/ BOCKÖ- south to Haparanda at the Finnish border in accommodation GUSS- BERGÖN RÅN- the northeast. The Bothnian archipelago is the Restaurant/café FJÄRDEN N GUSSN FJÄRDEN northernmost brackish water archipelago in the Sauna PERSN world. The water is neither salt nor sweet, which TISTERS- Kayak rental ÖARNA affects both plants and animals. Its northern Nature reserve Båtö- SIGFRIDSÖN fjärdens location with bright summer nights means there RARNA 8 9 DEGERÖ- naturres. KALIX KOMMUN FJUKSÖ- BÖRSTSKÄR is no hurry to your night harbor – you can enjoy BRNDN FJÄRDEN E4 BÅTÖN LULEÅ KOMMUN kayaking around the clock. FJUKSÖN In the Luleå archipelago there are 1312 vari- RUTVIK ous islands, characterized by weather and wind, STOR-FURUÖN midwinter cold and summer’s magical mid- Harufjärdens BENSBYN nature reserve. night sun. Service is also great, on some islands 97 L U there are saunas, restaurants and cottages. If L E HARUFJÄRDEN Ä 7 HINDERSN5 L you would rather experience solitude, there are V LULEÅ E many islands and beaches without piers, cottag- N HINDERSÖ- ESTERSN FJÄRDEN es or other facilities. HERTS- DEGERN There is much to discover amongst all the LANDET BRÄND- islands. Man has lived in the archipelago for 3 SKÄR SMÅLSÖN LULEÅ centuries and the traces are still there. Artefacts LÅNGN AIRPORT SAND- 6 BRÄND- of cultural history, labyrinths, fishnet drying N MJOÖN FJÄRDEN racks, boat landings and foundation remains STOR-BRÄNDN show the existence of hunting and fishing since SMÅSKÄREN GERMANDÖ- the 14th century. The fishing villages were once FJÄRDEN Larsgrundet Småskärens klippors used by the locals for summer fishing, today KLUNTARNA nature reserve they are populated by summer guests. 2 JUNKN Those interested in plants and geology have a GERMANDN SR-BRÄNDFJÄRDEN lot to see. You can find unique specimens such as Haparanda monzonite rock at Brändöskär or 4 Skjutområde NORR-ÄSPEN the small, Euphrasia bottnica at Hindersön, not Bådans found anywhere else in the world. 1 nature reserve SÖR-ÄSPEN In late summer you can find berries, mush- SANDGRNNORNA rooms and maybe a grayling to eat. The grayling Rödkallens Farstugrunden is easiest to catch by the rocky shallows in the KALLFJÄRDEN nature reserve PITEÅ LULEÅKOMMUN KOMMUN outer archipelago. As you can see, there is a lot to do and discover in the Luleå archipelago. RÖDKALLEN 10 km Welcome! IMPORTANT TO KNOW DIFFICULTY LEVELS MAPS/NAUTICAL CHARTS • The archipelago is relatively We have given the routes three Use the terrain map, scale 1:50,000 or a nautical chart with more extensive shallow with an average of only different difficulty levels: easy, information about shallows, markings, waterways etc. ‘Båtsportkortet för 10 m. This means short, steep medium and difficult. View these Bottenviken’ is a nautical chart of a very manageable size, also available waves when the wind blows. as recommendations. The estimated laminated and waterproof. The website www.lulea.se/uppleva--gora/ It also means that shallows times assume good weather and an skargard has paddling information and tips on nice spots to visit or stay and rocks can be found in the experienced kayaker. A route that is overnight. The book “Din egen lots till Luleå skärgård” is available for middle of a large inlet. simple one day can be really difficult purchase at Luleå Tourist Information Centre in Kulturens Hus. • The water level is heavily the next if the wind starts blowing. affected by winds and air Check the sea weather reports and pressure. Low and high water use your best judgement. can differ as much as 2 metres easy: The route is close to the shore, • Southern and south-western no crossings longer than 2 km, winds are the most common day-stages no longer than 20 km. in summer and all crossings in medium: Paddling on wider inlets. Paddling the archipelago are more or Crossings no longer than 4 km, together is less affected by these winds. day-stages no longer than 30km. an easy way The nights are light and usually Contains paddling outside to increase difficult: safety – and calm, on a windy day you can the archipelago, crossings longer than it’s more go paddling at night instead. 4 km and day-stages longer than 30 km. Ekström Gunvor Photo: fun too! 1. ALHAMN–ANTNÄS–BÖRSTSKÄR • 1 day, approx. 20 km LILL- side of the ridge there is a guest harbour, a campfire site and a sauna that is free to GERMANDÖN RENHOLMS- use. Sauna and swimming in the evening sun is quite an experience. GRUNDET The island is nice to walk, and there are several trails. Sörskäret has a hilly moraine ridge and in the south there are beautiful cliffs with a view. There is also an old quarry where feldspar was mined 1907–1909. Norrskäret has a nice beach with moss cov- ered sand and sparse pine forest to the northeast. If you wish to stay overnight, there STOR- are great tent pitches both here and on the ridge. RENHOLMS- Leaving Antnäs-Börstskär, paddle south again towards the bay on the northern GRUNDET Notviken ANTNÄS- side of Kunoön, facing northwest. It’s slightly hidden behind Rödhällan. Now you’re BÖRSTSKÄRET within reach of the mountain, Stor- berget, 43.7 m above sea level – this Svart- is high for Luleå! There is a nice TIPS: Faced with fresh southern and BÖRSTSKÄRS- beach on the western side of the Yttre svart- skataviken REFTEN southeastern winds it’s best to stay north FJÄRDEN island but it’s a bit shallow even for skataudden of Kunoön both ways, there and back. kayaks. SÖRSKÄRET The last stage follows Kunoön to REST STOPS: Antnäs-Börstskär has Nörd- the northwest. Go around Stora and a pier, sauna, rest cabin, campfire sites. skatan Lilla Kunoögrunden on the northern Kunoön has a sheltered bay to the north side – again crossing the waterway and a nice but shallow sandy beach to – head for Nördskatan and paddle the west. ALHAMN back to the pier in Alhamn. Storberget BÖRSTSKÄRS- BÅDAN KUNON Time for rest in Antnäs-Börstskär. KUNOÖHÄLLAN MANNÖN MANNÖFJÄRDEN 1 km Ekström Gunvor Photo: A route to the gem of the southern archipelago Difficulty: medium Launch at Alhamn, Luleå’s southernmost coastal village and one of the oldest. The village lies on a long, narrow cape by an equally long and narrow bay. South of the pier is a small beach where the route begins. Follow the cape to the southeast and aim for Kunoön. After about 2 km, you will be crossing a waterway, so stay alert. Keep going southeast along the southern beach of Kunoön and then make the short crossing of about a kilometre, to Kunohällan. Birds such as the black guillemot, velvet scoter, skua and ruddy turnstone like the cliffs. Next head due north towards Antnäs-Börstskär, about 4 km. The island consists of Norrskäret, Sörskäret and the ridge that binds these two together. On the western 2. KALLAX–ERSNÄSFJÄRDEN • 1 day, approx. 22 km With the right kind clothing A route inside the you can start the season archipelago, amongst before the ice has melted. KALLAX summer houses. Difficulty: medium Alhovaara Niilo Photo: Launch in Kallax – the village Kallviken Jakt- known for its fermented viken KALLAX- herring. There is a fishing ÖN harbour and a leisure boat STOR- Gruva harbour. South of the leisure HALSÖN boats is a rather overgrown FURUHOLMEN beach that makes a good launching spot. The trailer STOR- ramp is also an option. HUNDSKÄRET Paddle south between the BERGÖN mainland cape and Kallaxön. Round the cape near the ERSNÄSFJÄRDEN twigs (it’s very shallow behind them) and go north past Björnhällan, Furuholmarna and Jaktviken. There are plenty of summer houses here RENHOLMEN Vibbo- and some enjoy the view and näset BÖRSTSKÄRS- southern location all year 1 km FJÄRDEN round. Turn west, past Björkören and follow the northern beach of Halsön. Then go south in the strait between Halsön and Granön. The strait is shallow and rocky, especially on the Granö side. You will TIPS: The southern wind picks soon reach Stor-Hundskäret, a lovely, unpopulated excursion destination. The south- up speed over Börstskärsfjärden, ern beach has a pleasant rest stop. meaning that the Renholmen-Bergön Go south past Lill-Hundskäret and then southeast towards Vibbonäset. Paddle route can be exposed. Jaktviken and across the bay towards Renholmen. To your north is a big, sandy beach, well suited for Kallviken are famous summer house Ekström Gunvor Photo: a lunch break. areas. There are vantage points on Now the journey back to Kallax begins. About 2 km northwest is Stor-Bergörundet Renholmsberget and Bergön. and after about another kilometre, the southern tip of Bergön. Paddle into the strait between Bergön and Kallaxön. At Bergön, where the strait begins widening, there is REST STOPS: Stor-Hundskäret another beach with tables and benches. has a nice little beach with a camp- If you then paddle north towards Kallaxön, you will arrive after about a kilometre, fire site. There are sandy beaches at a larger pier by Strömmingsvarpberget. We recommend disembarking here (watch on Renholmen and Bergön. There out for sharp rocks) and walking up to the old quarry where feldspar was mined is also a small rest stop on the The beach at Renholmen 1905–1938.