Sos Nr Månd 4-06.Indd

Home , Blossa, Gothenburg, Peter Beier, Susanna Andersson

SOUTH OF SWEDEN LIFESTYLE & BUSINESS MAGAZINE NO 4 DECEMBER 2006 0:- FREE The Migration of

things to do before you buy that apartment

Photo provided by dreamstime.com provided Photo ChristmasHelsingborg The Winter of a Bon Vivant Get the picture Scalado AB Spa-tacular! Spirit reviving spas in Skåne 2 • SOSMAG.SE My Word

Collette Logan-Andersen, SOUTH OF SWEDEN editor SKÅNE’S FIRST ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE www.sosmag.se THE MASS OF CHRIST PUBLISHER L.A. Publications AB The iconography of modern-day Christmas is jumbled yet per- EDITORIAL DIRECTOR vasive. Migration and globalization has led to the fusing of dif- Collette Logan-Andersen ferent symbols, rituals, and celebrations on or around Decem- ber 25th into a single meaning. CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Kerri Arsenault Christmas, a holiday that livens up the darkest days of the year, has been adopted, accepted, merged, and tolerated by nearly all LISTINGS cultures not so much for the presents and the excitement sur- Diana Eklöw, rounding the festivities, but for the welcome, albeit brief, relief Collette Logan-Andersen from hostilities and redemption and love that Christmas brings. Let’s face it, humankind needs Christmas. LAYOUT & DESIGN Pia Johansson - LIME AB Be ye a righteous Pharisee, an agnostic, or just downright indifferent, come December 25th, we tend to look to each other CONTRIBUTORS for cultural clues on how to celebrate Christmas. In this issue, Nicola Adams, Kerri Arsenault traces the migration of Christmas rituals from Kerri Arsenault, Donald Duck merrily quacking his way across the Swedish bor- Elizabeth Dacey-Fondelius der to the spraying of fake snow on windows in New Zealand. Alison Gerber, Gustibus, Hetti Kett, I admit I’m a self-confessed Christmas junkie. I need no encou- ragement to embrace any ritual. I wantonly and squarely place Amy Leo, Anna Maris, myself in the midst of celebrations and welcome it with “irra- Jessica Numsuwankijkul, tional exuberance”. But, I can promise you one thing: Donald Simon Reeves, David Stavrou, Paul Steele, Duck will never quack his way toward my Christmas celebra- Laurel Williams, tions as long as I live in Sweden.

COVER ILLUSTRATION Fredrik Johansson Good Jul!

DISPLAY ADVERTISING & CLASSIFIEDS Collette Logan-Andersen This issue’s inside cover illustration left by Fredrik Johansson de- LIME AB monstrates how different cultures in Skåne come together to celebrate Christmas. Fredrik, a former illustrator at H&M, has had a li- PRINTER felong passion for drawing and illustration. “After a couple of years Printall working in Stockholm, I was in need of a change. I packed my things and went South. I ended up in Malmö and feel right at home. I am ISSN 1653-8854 very pleased to present this Christmas celebration illustration exclu- sively for South of Sweden magazine.” EDITORIAL OFFICE Kornettsgatan 9 Fredrik currently studies Product and Virtual design at Malmö Hög- 21150 Malmö skola and does freelance illustrations for private individuals and Sweden companies on demand. For more information on Fredrik Johansson, Tel. + 46 40 12 63 91 visit www.progressiveplayground.com. To purchase Fredrik’s art- HYPERLINK ”mailto:[email protected]” work, visit www.posterlounge.de. [email protected] South of Sweden would like to showcase talented illustrators and artist from the region. We are now accepting submissions cover il- To subscribe to South of Sweden email lustrations. If you would like your artwork featured on the cover of [email protected] Skåne’s leading English language print and online magazine, submit a small portfolio of three pieces to [email protected]. Opinions expressed in South of Sweden are those of the authors alone. All rights reserved.

No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the prior expressed permission of the publisher L.A. Publications SOSMAG.SE • 3 WEWE WANTWANT TO TO KNOW KNOW WHAT WHAT YOU YOU THINK THINK

SOUTH OF SWEDEN Email us LIFESTYLE & BUSINESS MAGAZINE NO 3 OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2006 0:- FREE

[email protected] ��

�� write to us: �� LA Publications AB Kornettsgatan 9 21150 Malmö ��

Strenght to Strength This [magazine] is one of the best things to have happened in Sweden since I’ve moved here. A magazine in English about Swedish issues and culture would have been enough but one that’s centred on Skåne and is about lifestyle and business too..I feel like it’s been compiled just for me!

Originally from Cambridge in England, I live in Anderslöv and am just starting up my own business as a Glass Artist so I was particularly interested in the business advice. I liked the whole tone of the magazine, which I thought credited the reader with intelligence and a sense of humour.

It’s brilliant to have reviews on the arts in the area, at last I feel like I’m in the loop. Maybe you could include cinema as well.

I see great ..may it go from strength to strength! Anya Rozijn, Anderslöv

Congratulations on your magazine. I’ve learned more about Skåne through the June/July issue than several years of having a summer home in Skåne and 10 years of having a summer home in Upsalla. I hope you mail outside Sweden, I would love to subscribe. Robert Lautz, Beverly Hills, CA. 90210

I have always believe that good work should be acknowledged and I have just ﬁ nished reading South of Sweden Magazine and would like to say how much I enjoyed it. Keep up the good work. I look forward to the next issue.

Phillip Celander, Bristol, UK

CORRECTIONS, CLARIFICATIONS

44 45 A place to call “hem” (October/November 2006) The photo byline for deluxe living at Malmö’s Turning Torso on page 45 was incorrect. The correct byline is ©HSB Turning Torso, Photo: Ole Jais. The correct photo byline on page 44 is ©Sandellsandberg/ www.imagebank.sweden.se

4 • SOSMAG.SE TABLE OF CONTENTS

13 20 22 28

36 38 42 50 13

6 Dear Hetti Kett LIFESTYLE 22 The migration of Christmas 7 Skåne Facts 27 Christmas African style Nobel facts 28 Travel – Helsingborg 36 Shopping – Christmas shopping Skåne style 8 First Person 38 Food – count down to Dunkin’ Day Jessica Numsuwankijkul 42 Health – spirit reviving Spas 46 Golf – Paralysis through analysis BUSINESS NEWS 10 Summary of community and business news Living here 11 Sports 47 Buying an apartment 13 Fast company - Scalado AB - Get the picture The Listings ART & CULTURE 49 Calendar of events including Skåne Kids 16 Winter viewing – Sarah Sze, Malmö Konsthall Electrohype 2006, Lunds Konsthall 54 Next issue 18 Winer Reading – The Wonderful Adventures of Nils Holgersson 55 Talk Back – Amy Leo 20 Lucia - a Swedish celebration of light ’tis the season to be cosy

WWW.SOSMAG.SE

SOSMAG.SE • 5 South of Swedens, Hetti Kett, gives advice and answers your

©BildarkivetKlågerupi burning questions on social customs in Sweden.

Dear Hetti Kett, Dear Hetti,

We have noticed a tendency in Swedish households to not provide din- It is rare that I am motivated to write a response to something I’ve ner napkins at the table. If there is a spill, or a dinner napkin is re- read in a magazine or newspaper but your stab at ﬁnding levity in quested, a roll of toilet paper is often produced from the kitchen! other foreigners’ serious effort to assimilate into the Swedish culture Initially, we thought that there might be a cost justiﬁcation for has moved me do so. Your admission of levity when addressing any cul- this, but after seven years in Sweden, we’ve witnessed this phenome- tural malaise leaves me wondering if you are, for some reason, biased non in homes where the cost of household supplies couldn’t possibly be against Swedes? Might I suggest that you try a bit harder to assimilate a concern. into the Swedish culture and be less negative about the environment in We would love to hear your thoughts --and perhaps other readers’ which you have decided to take root? thoughts-- on why toilet paper seems to be a universal substitue for hushållspapper, näsdukar och servetter in many Swedish households! Sincerely, Assimilated...Malmö Puzzled in Malmö

Dear Assimilated, Dear Puzzled, This is not the first time a reader has implied that my observa- In the old days, Swedes, along with many other people, used tions in this column are disparaging to Swedes. After due con- starched linen napkins at table, to be folded and put into indivi- templation, here’s what I have to say: dual napkin rings at the end of the meal. Nowadays, with most I have many well-developed theories about what it means to fit adults working full time, there are few households that can be into a new society, having tried my hand at it with greater or les- bothered with a nicety that means extra laundry and ironing. ser success many times in my life. Of course, what I observe may So paper napkins have moved indoors form the picnic area and not be what others observe. What makes me and my friends onto most people’s dining tables. What is more, because Swe- laugh may not make others laugh.... But all that’s just an unfor- den produces many fine paper products, there is no shortage in tunate difference in humour styles. this country of decorative, even fabric-like paper napkins to en- Hetti is a pseudonym and happily her identity will remain a hance local table settings. They come in all sorts of colours as mystery. Nonetheless, readers might be interested to know a well as special designs for Christmas, national festivities, major little bit more about her. She has: football matches and so on. Plain paper napkins are also availa- a) A Swedish mother; ble in economy packs of about four million from a Swedish glo- b) A degree in Social Anthropology (the Most Politically bal furniture store near you. So they don’t have to be an expen- Correct of All Possible Degrees); and sive luxury – something we would expect our Swedish friends c) Forty-two years’ experience of living as a foreigner in to frown upon. various parts of the world But toilet roll? This may well be a case of taking the admi- rable nordic no-nonsense, no-frills approach a step too far. I’m Does anyone still want to learn more about Hetti? Do write in. glad you mentioned that the roll of toilet paper appears from In the meantime, she’ll continue to respond all cri de coeur with the kitchen and not from the bathroom, because I was about to a fair dose of humour. call the health authorities on your friends (for their own good, of course). Do they know something we don’t know? Are they Always, Hetti hoarding the paper napkins for a forthcoming worldwide shortage? I think you need to throw caution to the winds and ask what is going on here. Perhaps it is part of a campaign to save the Scandinavian forest by using fewer disposable products (but then shouldn’t we logically go back to linen?). Should you not get to the bottom of this (as it were), bring your friends the afore-mentioned economy packs of napkins as a hostess gift on your next visit (it’ll be the cheapest present you ever bought). If, at their next meal, they are still setting out the Bewildered? Bothered? toilet roll, have them round to your house for a drink and stir Simply send your questions to Hetti Kett at the punch with a lavatory brush. [email protected]

6 • SOSMAG.SE Skåne Facts NOBEL FACTS All photos ©Nobelstiftelsen photos All

Karl Manne Kai Siegbahn Alvar Gullstrand Arvid Carlsson Bertil Ohlin Siegbahn

On December 10, eight individuals, dressed in sharp Arvid Carlsson (1923) tailcoats and silk sashes and distinguished for out- 2000— for his discovery in signal transduction in the nervous standing achievements in their fields, will take centre system. stage at a spectacular ceremony in Stockholm. The Born in Uppsala, Carlsson’s family moved to Lund after six Americans, one Turk, a Bangladeshi and his bank his father was appointed professor of history at the Universi- will join the esteemed ranks of Laureates and share a ty of Lund. Carlsson is best known for his work with the neu- Nobel purse worth SEK 10m (¤1.2m). Since the first rotransmitter dopamine and its effects in Parkinson’s disease. Nobel award was handed out in 1901, a total of 30 Carlsson was co-recipient with Paul Greengard (US) and Eric Swedes have been awarded the laurels. Few, how- Kandel (Austria). ever, are aware that Skåne has been home to five of these quiet achievers. ECONOMICS Bertil Ohlin (1899 - 1979) 1977- For his contribution to the theory of international trade NOBEL PRIZE FOR PHYSICS and international capital movements. Karl Manne Siegbahn (1886 – 1978) Born in Klippan, Ohlin shared the Nobel Prize for Econo- 1924 – for his discoveries and research in the field of X-ray spec- mics with John Meade (UK). Ohlin’s name lives on in one of the troscopy. standard mathematical model of international free trade, the Born in Örebro, Manne Siegbahn lived for many years in Hecksher-Ohlin model. Lund, where he obtained his Ph.D. in physics from Lund Uni- versity in 1911. His son, Kai Siegbahn, also received the Nobel Collette Logan-Andersen Prize in Physics in 1981.

Kai Siegbahn (1918 - ) NUMBERS NOBEL OTHER 1981 - for his contribution to the development of high-resolu- 784 – the total number of Nobel Laureates (766 individuals tion electron spectroscopy. and 19 organisations) awarded since 1901. Born in Lund and the son of Karl Manne Siegbahn, Kai Sieg- 33 – the number of women Nobel Laureates. The ﬁrst woman bahn shared the Nobel prize with fellow physicists, Nicolas Blo- awarded the Nobel Prize was the Swedish writer Selma embergen (Netherlands) and Arthur Leonard Schawlow (US). Lagerlöff for Literature in 1909. Siegbahn formulated the principles underlying the technique called ESCA (electron spectroscopy for chemical analysis). 25 – the age of the youngest Nobel Laureate, Lawrence Bragg (UK), who received the award for physics with his father, During the 1970s, ESCA was adopted as the universal method Sir William Henry Bragg, in 1915. for analyzing materials, including the particles in polluted air and the surfaces of solid catalysts used in petroleum reﬁning. 88 – the age of the oldest Nobel laureate, Raymond Davis Jr. (US), who received the award for physics in 2002. NOBEL PRIZE FOR MEDICINE 6 – the number of Nobel Laureates who have declined the Alvar Gullstrand (1862 - 1930) award: Richard Kuhn (Germany) for chemistry in 1938; Adolf 1911 - for his work on the dioptrics of the eye. Butenandt (Germany) for chemistry in 1939; Gerhard Domagk Born in Landskrona, Allvar Gullstrand was best remembered (Germany) for Medicine in 1939; Boris Pasternak (USSR) for lite- for his breakthrough research on astigmatism and for impro- rature in 1958; Jean-Paul Sartre (France) for Literature in 1964; ving the ophthalmoscope and corrective lenses for use after re- and Le Duc Tho, awarded the Nobel Peace Prize jointly with moval of a cataract from the eye. Henry Kissinger in 1973.

SOSMAG.SE • 7 pe st rs ir o F n Spelling Problems

How ﬁl, knäckebröd, and pay-as-you-go phones helped me adjust to life in Sweden

I HEADED STRAIGHT for the nearest Konsum after I arrived in Sweden for the ﬁrst time. I hadn’t eaten since my layover in Washington D.C. and was ravenous. Too fatigued to carefully read labels, I grabbed what I initially thought was milk. My companion Kyle, a fellow University of California student, advi- sed me to pick up a large round of “crackers” shaped like a giant cheese wheel and wrapped in industrial-strength waxed paper. “Here,” he said, shoving the stuff at me. “You need this since you don’t have a fridge yet. It doesn’t ever go stale.” That’s how I ended up dining on a rather squalid evening meal of knäckebröd and ﬁl before passing out from all the jet lag. It was August 2005 and I had just commit- ted to a semester abroad via the University of California Education Abroad Program in Lund. Gradually, a semester turned into a year and a year turned into a Migra- tionsverket application.

THE KNÄCKEBRÖD-AND-FIL incident was but the first of many ensuing language-related fiascos I had before getting the hang of basic speech; basic speech came much more slowly than I anticipated. There’s a male clerk at the Vodafone store in Lund that’s privy to the painstaking evolution of my Swedish language acquisition. He, more than anyone, knows the extent of my linguistic fumblings based on my monthly visits to the store to refill the minutes on my phone. I spoke English the first time I was there since my Swedish vocabulary didn’t exist beyond “Hej”, and “Tack.” After my first few mandatory “Swedish for Foreign Students” classes, I felt confident enough in my rudi- mentary Swedish skills to take a stab at ordering my minutes in Swedish. I went to the store, walked up to one of the two podi- rattled off the 10-digit mess, which was - unfortunately for me um-like structures behind which the clerks are made to stand, – riddled with the number seven. and dropped my queue number in front of a young man with sparse, slightly comical moustache. I said “hi” and proceeded I DON’T KNOW IF there’s a sound more troubling to the Eng- to blunder through a very slow “I would like some minutes for lish-speaking tongue than that bizarre fricative “sj.” I detec- my phone.” Unfazed by my garish Californian lilt, he looked ted the sheerest hint of a laugh in the clerk’s face as I struggled up and asked for my phone number so he could send the minu- through the third “7” in my phone number – which at this point tes my way. I hurriedly tried to recall my phone number and sounded more like “who” than “sju.” By the time I finished, my

8 • SOSMAG.SE I thought it would be interesting to live among those who think that basic healthcare and higher education should be accessible to all.

face fl ushed with embarrassment and I felt like bolting from the a fl urry of Mandarin sentences to which I could only respond, store. At the very end of the transaction, he nonchalantly thrust “Sorry, what?” a receipt into my hand and muttered “very good.” I think that was the only English he ever spoke to me. “OH, YOU’RE AMERICAN,” he said dismissively before teet- ering away on his Italian boots and disappearing into the queue. MY PRESENCE AS a foreign exchange student often elicited a I couldn’t really tell if, in all of his red-faced inebriation, he was dose of confusion from the locals; more specifi cally, Swedes of- expressing a particular distaste for Americans or just was really ten wondered why I had chosen Sweden as opposed to a more hoping to practice his language skills on a hapless Chinese tou- high profi le locale like France, Japan, or the UK. The most rist. Probably a little of both. common question I encountered living in Sweden was compri- sed of one part curiosity, one part self-effacement; after a few MY LAST VISIT TO the Vodafone store in Lund fell on my last preliminary introductory questions, someone would always de- day in town. I was on my way to Malmö to drop my belongings liver the ubiquitous, “So… why Sweden?” off at my boyfriend’s apartment before heading back to Califor- nia to graduate. The moustached-clerk was there and I bee-li- THE REASON I was in Sweden is far too boring to even arti- ned to his podium, ordering like usual without really thinking culate (something about being able to register for certain clas- about it. The ordinariness of it all was crushing: at the time, ses that were transferable to the University of California sys- buying minutes for my phone was just another task to be done, tem), but I usually offered up a few abstract reasons for anyone another chore to complete. I realized then I had reached a cruci- who was intent on knowing all the piddling details. First, I was al juncture in my adjustment to life in a different country – the drawn to Sweden because of its social welfare system. Not that ability to be a little bored by an everyday situation in a different I would be an active participant as a non-income generating fo- language. On the way out, I looked back at the store and re- reigner on a temporary visa – I just thought it would be interes- membered all the fear and excitement the prospect of a transac- ting to live among those who think that basic healthcare and tion once inspired (it was a tad more diffi cult than, say, “en kopp higher education should be accessible to all regardless of their kaffe, tack!”) and never remembered being so pleased about be- place on the economic pyramid. Second, as a Chinese-Ameri- ing bored. < can, I was interested in seeing what sort of differences I’d encounter in terms of everyday interactions with the population Jessica Numsuwankijkul in a place generally known for its social tolerance, yet not considered a “diverse” place in the scheme of Western world. Turns out, there weren’t really that many differences, aside from the Swedish tendency to use more politically correct jargon Jessica Numsuwankijkul lived in than most Americans, and maybe the tendency to politely av- Lund for a year before moving FACTS oid making assumptions about your ethnic background at the back to the U.S. She’s currently very beginning of a conversation. On the other hand, a select living and working in New York few actually seemed disappointed that my appearance belied City but hopes to soon return to my nationality, like this drunk guy that came up to me while Sweden. I was waiting in line outside of KB in Malmö on New Year’s Eve. After approaching, he released what I later found out was

SOSMAG.SE • 9 ■ Business news/Community news Collette Logan Andersen Photo: Alicia Swedenborg Alicia Photo:

Helsingborg’s Trade and Industry Director, Sten-Åke Tjärnlund (centre) receives the Visma prize check for SEK 100,000 for best city for start-up companies.

Helsingborg Helsingborg. Each year, Da- the Swedish clothing retailer, Crossmedia Avenue, the award ranked top city gens Industri provides a com- has given SEK 25m (€2.7m) winning mobile multimedia for start-ups prehensive guide to Sweden’s to Lund University to set up software developer. Twin Fac- Last month, Visma, a le- fast growing companies. APQ a permanent professorship in tor, the first MMS solution on ading supplier of administra- replaced JayWay, the Malmö- the subject of rhetoric. Jansson a music channel, enables vie- tive software and services, and based IT consulting company defended the endowment, ar- wers to send in an MMS with the Jobs and Society founda- as the fastest growing compa- guing there is a clear and pre- portrait photos taken on their tion named Helsingborg the ny in Skåne. sent need to strengthen the art mobile phones. Photos are best city to start a business in of effect communication skills then matched and morphed Sweden. Helsingborg beat out SEK 22.5m to in Sweden if the country hopes into celebrity look-alikes on nine other municipalities no- Lund University for to remain competitive. screen. Softhouse Crossmedia minated for the title, which diabetes research Avenue has 70 employees and carries a prize sum of SEK Lund University has recei- Sony Ericsson to head office in Malmö. 100,000. Two other munici- ved a SEK 22.5m grant from open 10 name palities in Skåne (Båstad, and the Knut and Alice Wallen- boutiques EU to sue Sweden Ängelholm) were nominated berg Foundation for research Last month, Lund-based Sony over broadcasting for the award, now in its se- on Diabetes. The fund will Ericsson opened its first name monopoly cond year. be invested in new techniques store on Kensington High The European Commission enabling researchers to find Street in central London. The has announced plans to take APQ named clues to genetic and environ- 650 sq metre boutique allows Sweden to court for failing Skåne’s fastest- mental factors that can cau- customers to freely try out new to abolish state-owned Boxer growing company se diabetes and complications features and applications first TV-Access’ monopoly as re- for 2006 from the disease. Between five hand before making a purcha- quired by EU law. The Euro- Dagens Industri, Sweden’s le- and six per cent of the Swedish se. The London consumer ex- pean Union’s executive arm ading business newspaper population (500, 000) have di- perience store is the first of has lodged a case against Swe- has named Trelleborg-based abetes. The Knut and Alice 10 planned name stores. The den at the European Court of APQ Skåne’s Fastest-Growing Wallenberg Foundation was company plans to open addi- Justice for failing to abolish Company of the Year. The founded in 1917 and is one of tional stores in New York, To- the state’s monopoly in access electricity installation compa- the largest financiers of re- kyo and Paris next year. control services for digital ter- ny, founded in 2001, has grown search in Sweden. restrial broadcasts. Since Sep- a record 573 per cent and now MTV picks tember 2002, EU members are has a turnover of SEK 13m KappAhl’s CEO Malmö-based required to ensure an open and 11 employees. In second donates SEK 25m to celebrity service market for radio and television and third place were Implus Lund University MTV Europe has launched broadcasting. < Utvecklings AB in Helsing- Christian W. Jansson, Presi- ‘Twin Factor’ developed by borg and Support Syd in Råå, dent and CEO of KappAhl, Malmö-based Softhouse

10 • SOSMAG.SE ■ Business news/Sports Simon Reeves Courtesy of Trelleborg IF of Trelleborg Courtesy

Trelleborg losses, conceding the least that has yielded golden results burg will then stage the main return to Sweden’s number of goals in 30 outings this year. rounds matches with the for- top football champi- thanks to a solid defense and The coach admits that the- mer serving as the venue for onship the safe hands of keeper, Fred- re are some areas that need the final. Division one side Trelleborg rik Persson. tightening before the start of Pundits expect the Swedes FF had already gained admis- Assistant coach Benny Mår- the new season. to repeat the magic and con- sion to Sweden’s most gla- tensson, a player when Trel- tinue the Nordic domination morous football league, the leborg made that historic first Malmö hosts of Europe’s topmost women’s Allsvenskan, before the first rise to the premiership in 1984, European handball handball competition. Swe- division championships’ (Su- credits this season’s title win championshipsÐ den recently held a blast when perettan) last day. So the 2- and promotion to head coach, Big-time handball comes to it outclassed top contenders 1 win over Brommapojkar- Conny Karlsson, and the figh- Skåne this month as Malmö Norway and Denmark to win na (BP) on October 21st was ting spirit of the young team. serves as one of four Swedish ci- the Scandinavia Open. just an icing on the cake. Ce- Next season, the 80-year- ties staging the 2006 Women’s lebrations began 20 days ear- old club will be making its 13th European Handball Champi- ICE HOCKEY lier when the club convincing- appearance in the Allsvenskan. onship (December 7 -17). A slow start marked Malmö ly dragged Åtvidaberg 4-1 to Trelleborg first played in the The city will be the preli- Redhawks’ return to Sweden’s move into an unassailable lead top flight in 1985 but did not minary rounds’ base of Olym- premier Ice Hockey champi- on the table. survive and fell back the follo- pic champions and favourites, onship, the Eliteserien. Trelleborg’s return to the wing season. In 1992 the team Denmark. The Danes, hap- The Redhawks put up a Allsvenskan speaks a lot about gained promotion again after py they are playing so close good show in most of its mat- the progress football is enjoy- outclassing Atvidaberg 3-1 in to home, are expected to ea- ches but a string of bad results ing in Skåne. the qualifiers and stayed for 10 sily thwart the threat pose by saw the team languishing at Already home to two of straight seasons before making Spain, France and Holland in the bottom of the table. So the the country’s biggest football the drop two years ago. group D. Denmark are hope 5-1 win over top contenders teams, Malmö FF and Hel- But with the current line- to recaptured the Europe- Brynäs in late October in the singborg IF, and a represen- up of talented youngsters like an crown, which they won in 14th round was seen as a sign tation in the lower ranks, Skå- the Ghanaian import Micha- 2002 but lost two years later to that a revival was on the way. ne joins Stockholm and Västra el Mensah, who grabbed 12 Norway. Youngster Calle Söderberg, Gotlands as Sweden’s most do- goals this season, and goal- Stockholm, Gothenburg and who had a trial spell in the minating football regions. keeper Persson, considered Sködve are the other hosts. American National Hockey ”Just a few years ago we one of the country’s best, this Group A matches involving League, was a dominating for- were in the Allsvenkan then Skåne-based team could be a Hungary, Serbia/Montenegro, ce in the win, the club’s second sadly we went down. Now we pain-in-the-neck of the big Austria and Macedonia will be in the tournament. Fans belie- are back and this time here to boys come next term. held in Sködve while Gothen- ve he is the one who will lead stay, ” notes a happy Trelle- Martensson says the team burg will welcome defending the comeback. It remains to borg fan. will continue to hold its head champions Norway, Germa- be seen whether the Redhaw- Trelleborg’s performance high and not be pushovers ny, Slovenia and Poland. The ks will bounce back from ear- this year showed a club head next year. He adds that the Russians will face off with ly setbacks to unleashed their and shoulders above the rest technical staff will always fea- Ukraine, Croatia and Sweden potentials. < in the first division. The out- ture players in the best of form in Stockholm in Group C. fit recorded 19 wins and two and keep up the performance Stockholm and Gothen-

SOSMAG.SE • 11 WWW.SOSMAG.SE

SOUTH OF SWEDEN LIFESTYLE & BUSINESS MAGAZINE NO 4 DECEMBER 2006 0:- FREE �� Scalado AB

�� Invest in Malmö.

�� Christmas�� Invest in a great future. �� Easy access to new markets, excellent communications and a smart workforce are just some of the reasons why companies Extend your like Ilva, Thule and Findus have invested in Malmö. If you are interested in joining them, we can give you free market reach information and help with every aspect of relocating in this vibrant region. Advertise in South of Sweden magazine. To advertise contact: TRADE AND INDUSTRY Eva Raihle, LIME AB Visiting address Lugna gatan 84 Postal address SE-205 80 Malmö, Sweden Tel: 040-40 86 80 Telephone +46 40 34 17 00, Telefax +46 40 611 27 06 www.lime.nu E-mail [email protected] URL www.malmo.se Get the Picture

��

�� International Marketing & Communication �� Does your business require on demand knowledge and expertise to help you do business in today´s global business environment? �� Please visit our website for more information.

Brima Consulting +46 701 102 559 www.brimaconsulting.com ■ Business news/Fast company Paul Steele

Scalado AB

Aren’tAren’t today’stoday’s mobilemobile phones wonderful?

Some people use them to make the odd phone call while others Get the Picture AB © Scalado like modish trendset- ters use them to listen Scalado’s CAPS PhotoArtTM imaging to music, text the world, and show off their latest cool ring signals. The latest trend is high-end camera functions that let you snap, edit, send, and blog wherever you are in the world. Using software developed from Lund-based

Scalado, you can use your camera phone to turn ordinary high-resolution photos into true works of art.

f you have a high-end came- gapixels as high-end digital cameras. The images than if they had bought a separate ra phone full of functions for word “mega” is now 21st century “speak” compact digital camera.” Mats also high- capturing, designing, crea- for “supersize.” The more the mega, the lights the benefi ts for mobile phone sales: ting, editing and adding cle- better the picture, or so the reasoning “Manufacturers fi nd it less expensive, and ver effects to images, then goes. It does, however, create a problem far faster to license our proven softwa- chances are it is powered by Scalado’s in phones. Manufacturers need to squee- re, customize it to meet their specifi c re- technology. Through innovative imaging ze more functions into memories that are quirements and get it out on the market applications, Scalado’s technology allows already full to the brim with all the oth- quickly, rather than dedicate their valua- you to play with images in various ways, er bits end-users want. And the more me- ble resources attempting to develop soft- giving users their very own mobile pho- gapixels in the image, the more power it ware in-house.” toprocessing studio. There are more than uses. Scalado’s products answer these di- What CAPS does is preserve image re- 40 models on the market today with “Sca- lemmas in a very smart way. solution. In other words you can do what lado inside,” including devices from Sony you want with a picture without it losing Ericsson and Samsung. Capture the moment its sharpness. You can also do it fast. “Pe- Scalado’s fl agship product is called CAPS. ople get instant feedback when they use Fast growing market It’s a unique piece of software that drasti- imaging processes developed by us. They Nowadays, almost every mobile device cally decreases processing times when immediately see images in their viewers, contains a camera. It is estimated by the managing multi megapixel images (that’s zoom, crop and edit in real-time,” says end of next year there will be nearly one tekkie language for big pictures). Mats. You maybe had an older digital ca- billion mobile devices that can give users Mats Jacobson, CEO at Scalado, says: mera or camera phone and waited seconds the opportunity of mobile phone photo- “Users benefi t by getting a camera that for the thing to actually take a picture, or graphy. Just a year ago, such cameras were has just as many - if not more – func- adjust focus. With CAPS that’s all a dis- limited. Today they have just as many me- tions for capturing, managing and editing tant, unpleasant memory.

SOSMAG.SE • 13 ©Scalado AB ©Scalado

Mats Jacobson, CEO (ﬁrst row, far left) and the Scalado team. The company is a great advertisement for integration as the original founders come from Lebanon, Iran and Finland.

Scalado has developed a range of soft- a complete image in the phone. This pro- images. “We want to give our customers ware products for doing what you want cess drastically reduces image processing a real imaging advantage,” says Mats with images on your phone. “We have de- time from seconds to milliseconds. As Jacobson.” The company is expanding ra- veloped an array of innovative imaging Mats Jacobson says, “RAJPEG cuts down pidly and now has close to 30 employees. application modules,” says Mats. “These image processing speeds by a factor of 20. It’s also a great advertisement for integra- include CAPS PhotoArtTM for applying It reminds you of the old joke about how tion as the original founders come from a wide variety of imaging effects, CAPS to eat an elephant. There’s only one way, Lebanon, Iran and Finland. Three guys SpeedViewTM for fast image viewing, bit by bit.” who were passionate about their image, CAPS ClearShotTM for quality effects and wanted as many people as possible to such as colour boost, CAPS RedAwayTM Growing with a passion for imaging improve theirs. < for red eye removal and CAPS AutoRa- Scalado was founded in the middle of maTM for sweeping panoramas. the IT boom at IDE- The secret behind Scalado’s success is a ON Lund, in 2000.

technology called RAJPEG (Random Ac- The company’s goal is Name: Scalado AB COMPANY FACTS cess JPEG). RAJPEG, a patented piece of to help manufacturers Province: Skåne software code, enables the phone to enco- significantly shorten Town: Lund de and decode images at lightning speed. time-to-market and to Industry: Mobile imaging & software It’s this piece of smart programming that differentiate their pro- Staff: 30 lets you take an instant picture, zoom ducts through ima- Growth: 100% since 2000 in and out and edit pictures at super fast ging solutions that of- Turnover: SEK 25m (estimated 2006) speed. RAJPEG works like a kind of “Pac- fer greater advantages Recipe for success: See the problem before man”, quickly chomping its way through in editing, enhancing, anyone else and solve it. bits of code, rather than trying to attack storing and sending

14 • SOSMAG.SE Turning innovation into proﬁ t

Innovations create new, efﬁ cient and proﬁ table business ideas. But innovations need support and stimulation if they are to grow and develop. The Department of Economic Development & Innovation coordinates all questions concerning the business community in Region Skåne. We create conditions that enable innovative ideas to take their place in the wider market. We give these dynamic processes the possibility to strengthen growth in Skåne.

Coordinating the innovation processes is an important precondition for growth. In cooperation with universities and the business community, Region Skåne enables companies to turn ideas into commercial opportunities. By fusing venture capital together with research and expertise we create sustainable economic growth throughout the entire region.

The work of the researcher, site foreman and yachtsman develop through innovation, an overview and cooperation. Just like industry in Skåne. The Department of Economic Development and Innovation www.skane.se/naringsliv

The company is a great advertisement for integration as the original founders come from Lebanon, Iran and Finland. MAP OF

SKÅNE��

��

SOSMAG.SE • 15 ■ Art & culture/Exhibitions Alison Gerber

Sze’s installation at Malmö Konsthall promises constructions made up of bits of the local as well as the universal. Photo courtesy ofMalmö Konsthall ofMalmö courtesy Photo

Sara Sze’s, “Unravel” 2005 Photo courtesy ofMalmö Konsthall ofMalmö courtesy Photo

Sara Sze’s, “Proportioned to the Groove,” 2005

16 • SOSMAG.SE WINTER VIEWING

Malmö Konsthall – Sarah Sze Lunds Konsthall – Electrohype 2006 S:t Johannesgatan 7, Malmö Mårtenstorget 3, Lund www.konsthall.malmo.se www.lundskonsthall.se Open daily 11:00-17:00, Weds 11:00-21:00 Open Tue/Wed/Fri/Sun 12:00-17:00, Thu 12-18:00, Sat 10-17:00

December 2 – February 18 December 9 – January 7

THIS WINTER, Malmö Konsthall will present another site- THE ELECTROHYPE BIENNIAL consistently gives us a cross- specific installation designed to fill their entire exhibition space section of the innovative and exciting in the field of new me- – recent exhibitions along the same vein by Ernesto Neto, Ola- dia arts – contemporary art that utilizes computer technologies fur Eliasson, and Susan Philipsz have highlighted the bright, in either the form or the content of the work. This edition of airy space. The gallery is perfect for housing large-scale works, the biennial will be a bit more digestible than former editions; giving them room to breathe, and Sarah Sze’s work will likely rather than a sprawling outlay, the 2006 biennial will show new fit nicely. works by only a few artists, allowing the viewer to spend time Sze is known for large, swirling sculptures composed of eve- with each work and perhaps to take in a bit more of all that the ryday junk-objects in a way that seems nearly messy but, on in- works have to offer. spection, proves to be carefully and delicately composed. In her For the viewer still hungry after the main exhibition, a con- works, tiny bits and bobs come together to form a whole – think current exhibition under the theme “Electronic Art in Public of bits and bytes coming together to form information, and you Space” will show sketches, models, and visualizations in Lund’s will be on the right track. Her sculptures, both in form and ma- wonderful Museum of Sketches. This wing of the biennial will terial, correspond to the spaces they are built for and a search document projects realized on an equal footing with projects for local content will always be rewarded. Sze’s work has been imagined, and the Museum’s wealth of documentation (it hou- described as “painting in space,” and the description is apt; her ses about 25,000 items) is available to satiate even the long-term works tend to have a visual impact that seems to relate it closely art-starved. See the new, the newly-possible, and the still-im- to two-dimensional forms. The difference, of course, is that her possible at this year’s Electrohype. < works give the viewer a new view from each of a thousand different vantage points; the viewer, moving around and through Sze’s sculptures, finds new perspectives that reveal, not just more details than the last, but new information, a new content.

NOT EVERYONE LOVES Sze’s airy compositions, but those who hate the jumbles tend to like her “simpler” works, made up at ﬁrst glance of single everyday elements hopelessly skewed. Her Corner Plot in New York City seemed to be an apartment building – the next-door apartment building, to be exact – til- ted and sunk deep into the ground. Only a top corner remained, and passers-by could peer into the windows to ﬁnd an apartment overgrown with its own objects. The work was a simple, funny gesture from afar, while a much more complicated work rewarded the interested viewer who felt like investigating the view beyond the knee-level windows. Like much of Sze’s work, there was something for (almost) everyone. Sze’s installation at Malmö Konsthall promises constructions made up of bits of the local as well as the universal, and both a colourful view for passers-by and a detailed, rewarding experience for the interested viewer. < Courtesy of Malmö Konsthall of Malmö Courtesy ©Yunchul Kim ©Yunchul

Sara Sze’s “Corner Plot,” 2006. Yunchul Kim’s “Hello World”.

SOSMAG.SE • 17 ■ Art & culture/Book review David Stavrou

WINTER READING

The Wonderful Adventures of Nils Holgersson By Selma Lagerlöf Bonnier Carlsen Ages 9 to 12 years

NOT MANY CHILDREN’S books pass the test of time. Those that do, however, are often passed from generation to generation and become masterpieces for adults. The Wonder- ful Adventures of Nils Holgersson by Selma Lager- löf, not only passes the test of time, it also remains one of Sweden’s favourite pieces of literature and an integral part of its culture. Though it was published 100 years ago this year, it remains both relevant and popular with readers of all ages. “Once there was a boy,” is how the story about Skåne’s most famous fictional boy starts. “He wasn’t good for much, that boy. His chief delight was to eat and sleep, and after that he liked best to make mischief.” The boy’s name was Nils Holgersson and for millions of people around the world he is known as the child, who after being turned into an elf, embarked on an amazing trip through Sweden on the back of a farm goose. Nils Holgerssons underbara resa genom Sverige © Skurups kommun (The Wonderful Adventures of Nils Holgersson) is about a naughty and selfish 14 year-old boy from Västra Vemmehög in southern Skåne that likes to play tricks on animals. One day he is bewitched by an elf and turned into a tiny creature that understands the language of the animals and is not quite human. After being harassed by some farm animals, he is carried away Italy and published Antikrists Mirakle (The Miracles of An- by Mårten, a farm goose who decided to join a flock of wild gee- tichrist, 1897), and Jerusalem (The Holy City, 1901-1902). se passing by on their long journey up north, to Lappland. In 1902 she was commissioned to write a book for school pu- pils. Three years of research combined with her innovative ca- LED BY AKKA from Kebnekaise, the wild geese and their new pabilities and imagination resulted in the two-part The Won- travelling companions discover the beauty of Sweden’s provin- derful Adventures of Nils Holgersson novel, which immediately ces, experience exiting adventures and overcome hardship and became a milestone of Swedish culture. So much so, that if you danger. Their trip is an educational one too, full of history, geo- pick up a 20 kronor bill you will find Nils and the geese flying graphy, folklore and mythology. Through the characters and over the planes of Skåne depicted on it. The other side of the the plot, readers are introduced to Sweden’s culture, climate, note depicts Lagerlöf herself with a Värmland landscape back- agriculture, wildlife and plants. ground and quotations from her first novel. “The book was published in 1906 and 1907, immediately after “Lagerlöf’s way of depicting Sweden is rich in symbolism, and Sweden’s ‘divorce’ from Norway,” says Erland Lagerroth, author metaphor, which makes it easy to memorize the geography of and retired docent and lecturer at Lund University. “It meant a the provinces,” says Håkan Sandgren, a senior lecturer in Swe- kind of Swedish Renaissance: now we had only our own coun- dish and Comparative Literature at the University of Kristian- try, let’s make the best of it! Its educational value is – ‘know your stad. Her efforts were not in vain – in 1909 she received the No- country!’...but the method was new and effective: knowledge th- bel Prize for Literature, becoming both the first Swede and the rough storytelling. It’s a wonderful journey but at the same time first woman to do so. Five years later she also became a member it’s very realistic, and as matter of fact, just like the author, Sel- of the Swedish Academy. ma Lagerlöf, who was a wonder of rationality and inspiration.” Lagerlöf, who grew up in Sunne, west central Sweden, was a “THE BOOK IS a celebration of work and good will,” says Hå- writer and a teacher. After her first novel, Gösta Berling’s Saga, kan and adds that it propagates early 20th century patriotic ide- she received wide critical acclaim. She obtained a scholarship as. “Today it’s read for its artistic qualities and as a nostalgic re- from the Swedish Academy, left her teaching job, travelled to minder of a Sweden that is no more,” he says. “Many think the

18 • SOSMAG.SE Although it’s about Sweden, the book has a universal message, which explains why it has been translated into so many languages.

book’s message is a moral one, ‘a rowdy young boy learns how to behave in the hard school of life,’” says Erland Lagerroth. “Ho- wever, to me, it’s the great story of Sweden, with a happy message to be taken to your heart.” Malte, a nine year-old boy from Stockholm is also enthu- siastic. His parents used to read him chapters from the book before he went to sleep. “It’s a very exciting book,” he says. “I especially like the goose, Mårten.” Like many children all over the world, he remembers the battles with Mr. Smirre Fox, the war of the rats in Glimminge castle, and the rescue of Jarro the duck from Lake Takern. “So many exciting stories,” he says. It is indeed an extremely well crafted tale, full of what the Nobel Prize Committee called ‘lofty idealism, vivid imagination and spiritual perception’. But The Wonderful Adventures of Nils Hol- gersson is not just a children’s tale or an educational project; ultimately, it’s a book about companionship, responsibility and friendship. It’s about growing up and lear- ning that both children and adults are part of a world po- pulated by a wonderful variety of people and creatures, each unique in their own way. Nils learns, and in turn, teaches us, while humans can be indifferent and cruel, they can also be compassionate and responsible. Although it’s about Sweden, the book has a universal message, which explains why it has been translated into so many languages and is considered a classic all over the world. It can be a wonderful introduction to Sweden and its culture for those who haven’t read it yet. For those who have, whether to celebrate its 100th anniversary, to honour Lagerlöf’s historic No- bel award, or just for the sake of the Christmas spirit, it’s well worth a revisit. <

Selma Lagerlöf received the Nobel Prize for Literature, becoming both the ﬁrst Swede and the ﬁrst woman to do so.

SOSMAG.SE • 19 ■ Art & culture/Lucia

Elizabeth Dacey-Fondelius

LUCIA: A Swedish Celebration of Light

MID-DECEMBER IN Sweden is dark, damp and dim. What a most appropriate time and place to import and embrace a tradition of light celebration...and so the Swedes did. Today the Swedish variation of the Italian Santa Lucia festival is a tradi-

tion as Swedish as lingonberry (cowberry) jam. Institute/www.imagebank.se Tham/Swedish © Jan Swedish Lucia takes place annually on December 13th. The blanket of darkness enshrouding the early morning of Lucia Day is illuminated by the glow of the Lucia figure dressed in a flowing white gown, her head afire with a wreath of candles. Sankta Lucia, as she is known in Swedish, is a creature of goodness and light. She is a shining angel illuminating the way to the Christmas season.

THE LUCIA CELEBRATION originates from the Middle Ages when December 13 was the longest night of the year, according to the Julian calendar. The Swedish Lucia has little in common with her namesake, the Sicilian fourth century martyr. There is no certainty of the route the tradition took while es- Lucia celebration. Lucia wears a crown and red ribbon tablishing itself in Sweden. However, it is popularly associated around her waist. with a legend of a white-clad maiden, wearing a crown of burning candles. She appeared on the shores of Sweden’s largest lake, Vänern, located in mid-western Sweden, bringing food to SANKTA LUCIA SONG starving villagers during a time of famine. Ever since, she has been associated with light. It is traditional in Sweden to sing the Sankta Lucia song with the Today, the tradition is played out most often in the schools, same melody as the well-known Italian song. This translation by churches and places of work before the dawn. A lucky girl Chris Troy is somewhat loosely based on the well-known Nea- dressed in a long white gown with a red sash and a crown of politan song. candles leads a procession. In tow are similarly dressed girls (tärnor) and boys wearing a tall pointed hat carrying a star wand SWEDISH ENGLISH (stjärngossar.) The rest of the procession is made up of girls and Natten går tunga fjät The night goes with heavy steps boys in similar dress singing beautifully haunting carols. Once rund gård och stuva; around farm and cottage; the singing is over, the procession and its observers enjoy coffee kring jord, som sol förlät, round the earth the sun has forsaken, and saffron-ﬂavored buns called lussekatter. skuggorna ruva. the shadows are brooding. Då i vårt mörka hus, There in our darkened house, NOT TOO LONG AGO, the Lucia procession also took place at stiger med tända ljus, stands with lighted candles home. The eldest daughter had the honor to be Lucia. She and Sankta Lucia, Sankta Lucia. Saint Lucia, Saint Lucia. her siblings roused the family with their singing. Then the family gathered together with saffron buns at breakfast. As the Natten går stor och stum The night passes, large and mute work traditions evolved in Sweden and both parents would go nu hörs dess vingar now one hears wings off to work dropping off children at day care i alla tysta rum in every silent room centres and schools, there was a natural sus som av vingar. whispers as if from wings. shift to leave the procession to the vari- Se, på vår tröskel står See, on our threshold stands ous institutions where people gather vitklädd med ljus i hår white-clad with candles in her hair e s . k at the start of their day. Some mo- Sankta Lucia, Sankta Lucia. Saint Lucia, Saint Lucia. n a b e dern families keep up the practi- g

m Gingersnaps Mörkret ska ﬂyta snart The darkness shall soon depart i ce, but most often only for special

w and saffron guests or grandparents. ur jordens dalar from the earth’s valleys

w /

e buns,traditional så hon ett underbart then she speaks t A few days before the Nobel

s Lucia treats. award ceremony, the laureates are ord till oss talar. a wonderful word to us.

s honored with a Lucia procession. Dagen ska åter ny The day shall be born anew i

w The morning of the ceremony and stiga ur rosig sky Rising from the rosy sky. S

l banquet, they are woken by a glowing Sankta Lucia, Sankta Lucia. Saint Lucia, Saint Lucia

P © figure of beauty, goodness, and light sweetly singing the Sankta Lucia song. <

20 • SOSMAG.SE � ��

� ��

��

�� ■ Lifestyle/Feature Kerri Arsenault

The Migration of

Photo provided by dreamstime.com provided Photo Growing up Catholic in the state of Maine, ChristmasChristmas consisted of snowstorms, the smell of my grandmother’s baking bread, a long

church service, and a mound of gifts the size

of New Jersey, which I had to share (sadly)

with my four siblings.

22 • SOSMAG.SE Digging in at the Julbord Jultomten (Santa) arrives December 24th

henever I smell frankin- pepparkakors, and Advent calendars, but cense and myrrh, hear the their pièce de résistance is food: hear- squeak of snow under my ty and plentiful. Particular to Sweden’s boots, or eat pecan balls, I Christmas table or Julbord are meat- With an increasing retreat to 1976 when I was balls, pig’s feet, herring, eel, ribs, and nine, where, on Christmas morning I ham. I paused for a moment, computing number of Sweden’s would discover a hand-knit stocking, the number of protein dishes, then asked residents foreign- full of lumpy mysterious shapes at the my Swedish neighbors Lisen and Johan end of my bed. Then when I found out if there were any salads on their Julbord. born, Christmas Rudolph the red-nosed reindeer wasn’t “Herring salad,” Lisen said and laughed. real – a heartbreaking moment from my This consists of salted herring, pick- is taking on a new cousin Lee – Christmas, ever since, was led cucumber, red beets, vinegar, gra- personality not only a time of contemplation, not of uncondi- ted horseradish, potatoes, ham, whip- tional beliefs. ped cream, apples, and is topped with relegated to fl ying December 25th may or may not be boiled egg. What are Lisen’s most vivid the day Jesus Christ was born, but the Christmas memories as a child? “Sto- reindeer and small holiday season surrounding that day, machaches [I wonder why] and getting white lights. in Sweden, emerges like a hibernating Donkey Kong.” Johan remembers his ra- bear, when in early October, the stores dio-controlled car, which was actually slowly fi ll with twinkling lights, red ta- a freebie corporate gift, but he loved it ble linens, and Santa Claus beards. Then nonetheless. Then there is the unlikely by the New Year, their usefulness ends hero of Donald Duck. Donald Duck? I in an exhausting sigh. But for now, the laughed now. How is Donald Duck rela- merchandise looks as fresh and hopeful ted to Christmas? As were many of my as the fi rst day at the gym. With an in- conversations about holiday traditions, creasing number of Sweden’s residents people recalled their childhood...so- foreign-born (In Malmö, that number is metimes with fondness, usually with a nearly 50 per cent), Christmas is taking laugh, and occasionally with horror. So on a new personality not only relegated last year Donald Duck quacked his way to fl ying reindeer and small white lights. toward my fi rst Christmas Eve in Swe- Along with the arrival of these new ci- den and into my own holiday traditions. tizens, and the Swedes who already live here, come their wonderful, quirky holi- The Nativity day stories and traditions. Geovanna, from Guayaquil, Ecuador says December 1st is a special time, when Pigs feet and Donald Duck the family (in her case, 42 people!) deco- Christmastime for Swedes includes par- rates the tree with one person chosen by ties, caroling, glögg with raisins and al- lottery to place the star on top and re- monds, handicraft markets, candles, ceive a gift (which is part of the incenti- >

SOSMAG.SE • 23 ■ Lifestyle/Feature Kerri Arsenault

Recipe

Mormor’s Pepparkakor (Grandma’s Ginger snaps) Makes about 12 ginger snaps

250g light syrup > Warm the syrup and add sugar and 250g brown sugar butter. Sift together ﬂ our and baking 250g butter soda then combine to syrup mixture. 2 tsp nutmeg > Make two dough rolls and freeze until 2 tsp cinnamon ready to bake. 2 tsp baking soda > Bake at 175OC to 200OC for 5 to 6 750g all-purpose ﬂ our minutes Party hats and warm weather down under

ve, she admits). For her, it is the holiday cohol and fi reworks and sometimes even Bottle cap tambourines you spend at your mother’s house, even a gunshot or two. “If anyone wanted to My husband’s colleague, Max, is from after you marry, with stern disapproval blow up the city, Christmas would be a Manila in the Philippines and he states from the matriarch if you don’t. On De- good time because you wouldn’t even Christmas (the commercial part) starts cember 24th, one hour before midnight, hear it.” Carmen remembers wearing somewhere in September, with stores they serve dinner then at the stroke of new clothes from head to toe, the smell and thoroughfares thickly decorated twelve, they place a fi gure of baby Je- of pine needles, a small refrigerator and to the point of garishness. But the offi - sus in his crib under the tree in the na- stove set she received as a gift, and the cial holiday starts nine days before De- tivity scene to signify his birth. “Carols smell of plastic. Her godmother gave cember 25th with a mass each day – the are sung and we welcome the children to her a beautiful doll (not stiff and not yel- Miso de Gallo – which means “mass of join in the demonstration of our Catho- low). “It had real hair that smelled like a the rooster”, for good reason. Each mass lic faith,” Geovanna says. Santa arrives, certain kind of plastic.” But for her, that begins around 4:00 am, no easy chore hands out gifts whereupon the children was a good thing. The memories, which rousing a large extended Catholic fa- will play with the toys and the adults will seem to stay with us, often begin with mily before the rooster crows. For the stay up all night drinking, dancing, and some strong emotion, usually in child- a sleepy child, there is salvation. Af- singing. What do they do on December hood, where a kind gesture in the form ter mass each morning, vendors await 25th? “Sleep. All the people are sleep- of a wee refrigerator lasts forever. hungry congregations and serve Filipi- ing,” she says laughing. “On Christmas no specialties of puto bungbong (a glu- Day, the family rests and the cities are Like jewelry tinous violet rice, cooked in bamboo, quiet with few people on the streets. Stefano from Milan, Italy remembers wrapped in banana leaves and topped After all, the Christmas season is to be the women in his family making fresh with brown sugar and coconut), blood spent at home with your loved ones.” tortellini before Christmas Eve, gently Geovanna describes one memorable rolling the pasta and fi lling it with ri- childhood gift. “It was wrapped in plas- cotta and spinach. “It was like making tic. No wrapping paper...then, when I jewelry,” he says. Santa (Santa Lucia in opened it, it was a doll...a doll that had Italy), for his family, was not a jolly fat pale lips and yellowed skin and stiff arms man in a red wool suit. “He was like a and legs.” Geovanna’s face grows dark. ghost, mysterious.” On Christmas Eve, “I was so scared. It looked like a corpse. children were corralled into a room I put it aside and never saw it again, but I when the doorbell rang upon Santa think of that doll every Christmas.” Lucia’s arrival. Hushed, they listened to Carmen, sitting next to Geovanna, is his footsteps making their way toward from San Pedro Sula, Honduras, where the tree. When the children emerged, Myth and mystery things are slightly different. Carmen’s Santa, and the cake and milk left for family also solemnly places their baby him, were gone. Myth and mystery ho- hover over the holi- Jesus under the Christmas tree. “Ours ver over the holidays like Pandora’s box days…but without it, was porcelain...his eyes were so deep... (a virginal birth, a bearded man ente- he was beautiful,” Carmen says loving- ring your house in a red wool suit, her- Christmas would be ly. Then all hell breaks loose. After mid- ring salad) but without it, Christmas night there is dancing, singing, food, al- would be just another day. just another day.

24 • SOSMAG.SE Ecuador Nativity Ecuador

Feliz Navidad

der n un r dow eathe arm w s and w y hat PartyPart hats and warm weather down under

pudding, and hot chocolate. “Real cho- A new way to fl y colate...melted,” Max clarifi es. My hairdresser from Le- Manila, like Sweden, is awash with banon, Booha, agrees with lights in the windows of every home and Max, when I talked to him business. These parols (meaning light) aboutabout hhowow CChristmashristmas iiss vvie-ie- are shaped like the star of Bethlehem, wedwed iinn MMuslimuslim ccountries.ountries. HHisis and are often made of thin coloured pa- familyfamily ddidn’tidn’t ccelebrateelebrate CChrist-hrist- per or cellophane over bamboo with a mas,mas, however,however, “Papa“Papa Noel”Noel” visi-visi- light in the centre. Max recalls one spe- tedted aallll tthehe cchildrenhildren aatt schoolschool nono cial memory: every year in early Decem- mattermatter wwhathat ttheirheir rreligion.eligion. AAndnd ber about 20-25 kids, all under age nine, naturally,naturally, sincesince itit waswas Beirut,Beirut, San-San- gathered together to fl atten metal bottle tata arrivedarrived withwith panachepanache – viavia heli-heli- caps, punch holes in them, then fashion a copter.copter. WhetherWhether youyou aarere CChristi-hristi- wire circle putting the bottle caps on the anan oror masqueradingmasquerading aass oone,ne, aass BBoohaooha wire to make an impromptu tambouri- says,says, “All“All kidskids likelike PapaPapa Noel.Noel. WhatWhat ne. They then would go from house to kidkid doesn’tdoesn’t likelike toto getget presents?”presents?” Santa arrives by boat in New Zealand house, singing and playing and collec- ting money. Two days before Christmas, Cakes and camels they would have a party (with their pa- TheThe smellsmell ofof orangeorange peelspeels andand lookinglooking rents’ assistance) using their proceeds. forfor SantaSanta ClausClaus inin thethe nightnight skysky (though(though Many traditions his country adop- not in a helicopter) is what Leslie re- ted were customs from Spain or North members about her childhood New America and looking back on them, they Zealand Christmases. Prevalent (like in didn’t make sense. Santa Claus wore a the Philippines) were traditions adop- wool suit in blistering temperatures, and ted from the countries that coloni- (fake) pines were used instead of native zed them, in her case, Britain, Ireland coconut trees for their Christmas tree. and Scotland. “Why did we have ro- The customs became clear once he mo- bins on our Christmas cards? Robins ved to Sweden. “It’s cold here and there didn’t exist in New Zealand. And it was are so many pine trees!” he laughs. One the middle of summer, so why were we custom Max brought from Manila to eating turkey, mince pie, plum pud- Malmö is picking names via lottery for ding and gravy? That’s winter food.” gift buying, something he said typically Leslie Laughs. “We even sprayed fake smaller Swedish families are unfamiliar snow on our windows.” She claims New with. “Now they are experts,” he says of Zealand’s traditions have slowly evol- his Swedish in-laws. “But really, Christ- ved into ones which honour the clima- mas is for kids,” Max says. “It’s about gi- te and culture. One delicacy New Zea- ving them the same memories we had as landers claim (and naturally, so do the children.” Australians) is the Pavlova dessert, na- >

SOSMAG.SE • 25 ■ Lifestyle/Feature Kerri Arsenault

Recipe

Pavlova – New Zealand Preheat oven to 150O degrees.

4 egg whites Beat all ingredients until the mixture forms ﬁ rm, glossy peaks. 2 cups sugar Spoon the mixture onto greased baking paper on a tray in 1 tsp vanilla essence one large circle or eight small ones. Bake for 30 minutes, then 1 tsp vinegar turn the oven off and leave the pavlova inside for at least an- 1 tbsp cornﬂ our other hour. Do not open the oven during this time. ©Douglas Freer ©Douglas 3 tbsp boiling water To serve Pavlova recipe provided by Place onto plates and garnish with whipped cream Leslie McInnes Bergman and fresh fruit.

med after the great ballerina Anna Pav- lection of being there in 2000 was a re- lova to celebrate her visit there in 1926. membrance of tolerance and goodwill It is a baked meringue, topped with for all religions. cream and fresh local fruit, looks like a In sauntered three tutu, and is as light as Pavlova herself. The Yule Lads On the other hand, Leslie’s mother also In Iceland, the smell of orange peels camels in magnifi - made fruitcakes weighing about 5-6 ki- would be the ultimate Christmas bles- cent aloofness car- los each. “You could eat them forever,” sing. On Þorláksmessa, December 23rd, she says. some Icelanders still eat traditional rying the three wise Her family farm in New Zealand be- pickled and putrefied skate, which my came the location of Christmas celebra- friend Jon, from Reykjavik, says “smells men, who walked tions; it was a large enough place where like shit” and you can hardly go out- from Giza. all the “rellies” (that’s “relatives” for us side because the entire city is contami- English speaking people) could stay. nated with the odour. Then there is the They opened “crackers,” cellophane Christmas (Jól) cat. An old folklore says wrapped party favours containing a gift, everyone has to get, make, or receive a a hat, a snap and a joke (look it up if you new piece of clothing for Christmas (I don’t believe me). In her adult years Les- am adopting this tradition) and if you lie spent Christmas in Australia, where don’t, you could be eaten by a mean old she stayed at a beach house, surfed, and cat. Jon said Icelandic traditions were day spirit of tolerance and goodwill, but ate a champagne brunch and in Singa- very similar to American traditions, ho- a huge concrete wall dividing the city in pore where she turned up the air-condi- wever, the resemblance is still unclear. half, separating families from one an- tioning to serve glögg ice cream while it They have no less than 13 Yule lads, who other. Even though I am not a very reli- sweltered outside. Christmas in Egypt, are not related to Santa. They are mi- gious person, I thought to myself, “Jesus however, remains her most vivid memo- schievous and frightening descendents would be pissed.” This is what I will con- ry. In Ma’adi, Egypt, in a courtyard of of trolls with names such as Þvörusleikir template this Christmas. an old church, she watched the re-enact- (Spoon-licker), Pottasleikir (Pot-licker), Despite my scepticism, there is somet- ment of the nativity scene in a setting Hurðaskellir (Door-slammer), Skyrgá- hing satisfying about a fragrant pine tree befi tting the solemness of the occasion. mur (Skyr-glutton), Bjúgnakrækir (Sau- in the house, meat pies for breakfast, a When it was time for the three wise men sage-pilfer), Gluggagægir (Peeper), and storm of wrapping paper and thank-yous to enter, the gates of the courtyard ope- Ketkrókur (Meat-hook). on Christmas morning, and snowfl akes ned and in sauntered (as gracefully as As an adult, Christmas has become as big as strawberries. This year I may Pavlova) three camels in magnificent complicated because reality can someti- even try a bit of herring salad, make a aloofness carrying the three wise men, mes overshadow the myths you believed “Pavlova,” wish for peace in the Midd- who walked from Giza to Ma’adi (south- so readily as a child. I still get a stock- le East, or watch the skies for Santa, ho- ern Cairo) that day. How did the sheep ing at the end of my bed and burn fran- ping he will alight on my roof with a he- get there? “Three of them were stuffed kincense, but besides fi nding out about licopter. < in a taxi and brought to the church.” As Rudolph not being real, I visited Beth- a Christian, she was in the minority in lehem last Spring, the alleged birthplace Photographs provided by Johan, Lisen, Egypt, but it was irrelevant as her recol- of Jesus. What I found was not the holi- Leslie, and Geovanna.

26 • SOSMAG.SE ■ Lifestyle/Christmas Simon Reeves

Christmas

MALMÖ, LIKE MANY Swedish For many Africans living outside the continent, observing Christmas cities with a sizable African population, will have its share of parties is much more then welcoming the birth of Jesus Christ. It is also a this joyous season. Liberian publisher, Charles Massaquoi, who has made the city time to enjoy African solidarity and, more importantly, his home for the last 10 years, believes Afri- cans will make merry as they have been doing celebrat their culture. for years. “This season will not be different from others,” he says. “Every year,” he remarks, “Africans use the Christ- mas to get together and have a good time. For us we don’t just hold a get-together party but we also catch up with old friends. You will see people you have not seen for years at those parties.” These gigs come in different packages, but the most flam- At most African parties, boyant are those held by nationals from the West African na- tions of Ghana and Nigeria. Wearing the latest in traditional you will find young attire Ghanaians and Nigerians, after satisfying their appe- people who can sing tites from a long line of African dishes, dance to the hottest African sounds till the wee hours of the morning. and dance so it then Since this is a family event, there are games and other activities to keep the youngsters happy while the elders do also becomes a their thing. “At most African parties, you will find young pe- Crawsurd Jacob Photo: talent show. ople who can sing and dance so it then also becomes a talent show,” he adds. Those who do the best dancing moves sometimes win prizes.” Massaquoi is really moved when he sees non-Africans getting down at these outings. It cheers him because Swedes generally celebrate Christmas with immediate family members. “So if you do not have a family, you get to celebrate alone. ding aim of the gathering is to “makes When they come and have fun with us, they get to live a diffe- ourselves feel that we are back home in rent, new, and enjoyable experience,” he notes. Africa.” Long-time Malmö resident, Tony Sarpong, who hails from “Christmas in Africa is a wonderful time,” Ghana, and his pals start the celebrations early. By Decem- he stresses. “Although we cannot exactly recre- ber 23rd all is set. The hall has been booked, music arranged ate that feeling here, we do our best to enjoy the and food bought. Sometimes, he avers, party-goers are asked day because it is never a good thing to be alone to pay a small fee to offset cost but maintains that the overri- during this period.” <

SOSMAG.SE • 27 ■ Lifestyle/Travel Laurel Williams

The Winter of a

Dunkers kulturhus, Helsingborg BonVivant

28 • SOSMAG.SE Helsingborg, the pearl of the Sound, is perhaps best loved

for its summer pleasures, when the sun shines on lively

festivals, waterside eateries and miles of some of the

best urban beaches in Scandinavia. But with stunning Lallo ©Birger

scenery, cultural riches and an epicurean ﬂ avour, the

thriving “little big city” is also a winter wonderland

for bon vivants as Laurel Williams reveals. The 600-year-old majestic Kärnan Tower.

elsingborg is one of cert hall and the theatre. Beyond is the Sweden’s most beauti- North Harbour, fringed by delightful ful seaside cities, com- restaurants and cafés with immense win- manding the narrowest dows perfect for gazing at all the boats Dunkers kulturhus, Helsingborg point of the Öresund and passers-by. A welcome surprise the- Sound, a little bottleneck or hals bet- re is a row of heated benches outside the ween Sweden and Denmark from which marina building. Just south of the main Helsingborg gets its name. This is square, discover the charming cobb- Sweden’s closest link to the continent lestone streets around the beautiful St. and, like the rest of Skåne, was Danish Mary’s Church. In this, the oldest part longer that it has been Swedish and that of Helsingborg, almost every dwelling lends a tangible cosmopolitan whiff to has its own ghost story. Ivy creeps pret- the atmosphere. At once sophisticated tily over the red bricks of St. Mary’s, and fl amboyant, Helsingborg has beco- the Danish Gothic masterwork that was BonVivant me a magnet for young active creatives completed in the 1400’s and that took and lovers of style and gastronomy. One 100 years to build. Bruksgatan leads pe- thousand years of history and recent destrians further south and eventual- awards such as Sweden’s fi nest city cen- ly to the exotic, vibrant district of Hel- tre, Sweden’s best music city and the city singborg where the currents of the world with the best business climate for entre- swirl in dozens of languages around the preneurs in Sweden, offer a rare blend of daily fruit, vegetable and fl ower market. the ancient and modern that beguiles visitors and locals alike. All on a winter’s day Winter is the perfect season to take in the A good starting point unique wealth of culture that Helsing- Helsingborg is easy, walkable, and with borg offers. A generous donation from > the Sound to the west and the heights of the Landborgen ridge running parallel to the east, orienting yourself is effortless. A good starting point is Stortorget, the main square lined with upscale shops, restaurants, hotels and the impressive City Hall. Stand in the middle of the square

Skane.com©sydpol.com-Position Skåne Skane.com©sydpol.com-Position and take in the view of the busy ferry harbour at one end and at the other, the mag- At once sophisticated niﬁ cent steps that rise up to the Kärnan tower that has stood guard in Helsing- and ﬂ amboyant, borg for over 600 years. Climb up the an- Helsingborg has cient steps in the tower’s 41⁄2-meter thick walls for brilliant views of the Sound and become a magnet the menagerie of boats frisking about or heading out upon the seven seas. for young active Kullagatan, the oldest pedestrian creatives and lovers of street in Sweden, winds north away from the square and deposits you at the con- style and gastronomy.

SOSMAG.SE • 29 ENJOY HELSINGBORG ALL THROUGH THE WEEK

Everything you need for a meeting in Helsingborg is within walking distance, in clud ing a seaside view!

Stay for the weekend and ex peri ence our hotel pack ag es with spa, golf, shopping and much more!

www.helsingborg.se

Untitled-1 1 2006-11-05, 13:18

SKÅNE CHRISTMAS PACKAGE. Travel South this Christmas to the warmth and glow Risberg & Eriksson of Northwest Skåne. Visit some of Skåne’s old-fashioned Christmas markets, get inspirational gift ideas in the pottery district, and dine on a sumptuous traditional Skåne Christmas buffet. Visit our website and book your eventful Christmas holiday package deal today. Oh, and don’t expect a ride from Santa on his reindeer sleigh; ﬂ y Kullaﬂ yg instead. Welcome.

www.skanenordvast.com Getting there

By air Ängelholm’s airport is just a 30-minute drive from Helsingborg and has direct ﬂights to and from Stockholm. Kastrup in Copenhagen and Sturup in Malmö serve international travellers.

By land Drivers can follow the E6 north from Malmö (1 hour) or south from Goth- enburg (2 1⁄2 hours) and the E4 from Stockholm (7 1⁄2 hours). Trains run several times a day from Malmö, Gothenburg and Stockholm and de- © Anders Ebenfelt © Anders liver you to Knutpunkten, the central station in Helsingborg where all the train, bus and ferry trafﬁc meet.

By sea The most enjoyable way to arrive in Helsingborg is, without a doubt, by ferryboat from Denmark. The ﬂags of Kronborg, Hamlet’s famous castle, wave you off from Helsingör.

Where to stay

Pålsjö forest. THE ELITE HOTEL MOLLBERG on Stortorget is a classic address. The site has been a hotel since the 1300’s making resident industry mogul Henry Dunker, certs, Shakespearean plays and classic it Sweden’s oldest and it also houses the famous for his Tretorn galoshes, boots car shows during the spring and summer oldest restaurant in Sweden, now home to and tennis balls, fixes Helsingborg’s sta- but is utterly tranquil in winter. the charming Café le Fils du Rasoir. www. tus as a flourishing cultural centre for Stroll along Kullagatan and Bruks- elite.se/hotell/helsingborg/mollberg years to come. Go to Dunkers Kultur- gatan for some superb shopping. All the hus for its striking architecture, expan- usual chains are represented but the real THE RADISSON SAS GRAND HOTEL sive views of the North Harbour and a gems are the many small clothing bou- in a beautiful 1920’s building on Stortorget bounty of concerts, theatre and exhibi- tiques, interior design shops, galleries houses an excellent restaurant and lounge, tions of local history, Nordic mythology and cafés. This region is rich with high a piano bar, a chic coffee shop, an Italian and modern art. Take a moment to stop quality clay and you will find plenty of trattoria and the divine Japanese city spa, in at the gift shop for some of the most unique handmade stoneware available in Njuta. www.radissonsas.com unique and genuine souvenirs of a visit Helsingborg. Visit the wonderful Gast- to the city including Tretorn boots and ronomibutiken gourmet delicatessen in VILLA THALASSA, perched on the other rubbery novelties. The national- the Tågaborg neighbourhood where lo- edge of the Landborgen ridge in the Pålsjö ly renowned city theatre warms hearts cally sourced goodies rub shoulders with forest, is one Sweden’s most beautifully during the dark winter months with European delicacies from the best pro- located hostels. www.villathalassa.com the cabaret “Brel” in homage to Jacques ducers. Their own fresh foie gras pâtés Brel’s life and immortal songs. Take in soaked in grappa, cognac or rum are in- FARBROR ELOFS SKAFFERI in Bil- a symphony at the concert hall or take a comparable. Many locals also make re- leberga provides quaint rooms for guests stroll in the magnificent gardens of the gular pilgrimages to the south-side in- overwhelmed by the idea of returning to Fredriksdal open-air museum or Sofiero stitution, Tasty House, where towers the real world too soon after dinner. www. castle. Look for the juniper-hedge maze of baklava compete with exotic candy elofsskafferi.com at Sofiero, ironically a puzzle in itself to and, most importantly, row upon row of find, and ramble down the ravine to the freshly roasted nuts. AT ÖRENÄS CASTLE ask for the rooms seaside where swans bob aimlessly about. in the castle itself. They offer weekend Lately named Sweden’s most beautiful One big coffee shop packages and special deals for the Christ- park, the grounds of Sofiero play host to Stop in at a cosy café for a cup of Zoégas mas buffet and the Twelfth Night ball. flower festivals, art exhibits, rock con- dark roast gourmet coffee. The Zoégas www.orenasslott.com

SOSMAG.SE • 31 ■ Lifestyle/Travel Laurel Williams ©Ole Jais ©Ole

rian street. Interior of the trendy restaurant GASTRO, voted bes oldest pedest t restaurant in Sk Sweden’s åne. lagatan, on Kul arket as m istm Chr

fresh lime. For cappuccinos whipped up Helsingborg’s own team, HIF, straight by Sweden’s best baristas, head to the to the top classes of Swedish football. Helsingborg’s rep- K&Co café off Kullagatan. Don’t leave If they play their way into the Royal town without buying some gourmet cho- League then be sure to catch a game at utation for offering colates or Zoégas dark roasted coffee be- Olympia, one of Sweden’s nicest outdoor ans to stuff stockings with. sports arenas. Skåne’s best dining Bundle up and take a winter walk in can hardly be the beautiful Pålsjö forest among towe- Eating, drinking & being merry ring beeches and oaks. A most romantic It would be foolish to go to Helsing- disputed. tunnel through the ancient hornbeam borg and not indulge in the gastrono- hedge near fairy-pink, Pålsjö castle le- mical delights. Helsingborg’s reputa- ads you to stunning views of the Sound tion for offering Skåne’s best dining can and Denmark. You can link in here to a hardly be disputed. It is home to the li- beans have been roasted in Helsingborg walking path that follows the edge of the kes of GASTRO, NIKLAS HELSING- since 1881 and on roasting days when Landborgen ridge and stretches nearly BORG and Sofiero Slottsrestaurang, th- the wind is right the whole town smells 15 kilometres from Sofiero in the north ree of the top four restaurants in Skåne like one big fragrant coffee shop. Take to to the medieval Raus Church in the and among the best in the country. The the waters with a glass of the local iron- south, past stately homes, secret gardens traditional Swedish Christmas buffet is rich Ramlösa mineral water that Carl von and along the valley of Råå Creek. served in grand style at Sofiero during Linné raved about and that has found its As the winter sun sinks lower, make the month of December and it is a most way onto water menus around the world. your way to the Påljsöbad sauna and marvellous feast of homemade Christ- The holiday season will find you nibbling bathhouses, set on stilts in the Sound, mas delicacies in regal surroundings. at crisp gingerbread cookies or golden for a wholesome and magical conclu- The White Guide recently proclaimed saffron buns washed down with piping sion to your day. It is a cherished tradi- GASTRO the best restaurant in Skå- hot mugs of sweet and spicy glögg. Hel- tion in Helsingborg to gaze at the sunset ne and the Christmas buffet stays true singborg also boasts no less than three over Denmark from the sauna windows, to the Gastro concept of preparing lo- gourmet chocolate shops. Sofie Chok- emerging only to shimmy down steps for cally sourced fish, game and vegetables lad and Peter Beier Chokolade keep their the occasional swift dip in the refreshing to perfection, capturing the essence of chocolate fountains gushing on opposite (real icy) water. Skåne’s traditional cuisine. sides of the St. Mary’s church and Cho- Hometown soccer hero Henrik Lars- Celebrate the holidays like royalty colatte on the Sundstorget square offers son is back in Helsingborg after a spec- at the baroque Örenäs Castle, set on a a unique white hot chocolate laced with tacular international career and has led bluff in Glumslöv, just 15 kilometres

32 • SOSMAG.SE Mark your calendar

DECEMBER 3RD JULSKYLTNING The shop owners in Helsingborg honour the Swedish tradition of unveiling the Christmas ornamentations of the shop windows on the ﬁrst advent. White lights twinkle across town and candied almonds are roasted and sold on the corners.

DECEMBER 7TH PORT WINE TASTING One of Sweden’s top wine experts, Håkan Nilsson, hosts a port wine tasting at bistro and bar Dahlberg on Stortorget. www. gastro.nu/gastropub

DECEMBER 8TH-10TH CHRISTMAS AT FREDRIKSDAL For an authentic Swedish Christmas market do not miss “Christmas at Fredriksdal”, where you can buy old-fashioned candies,

©Fredrik Segerfalk/GASTRO ©Fredrik homemade delicacies and crafts in old shops on the exquisitely preserved rural rian street. Interior of the trendy restaurant GASTRO, voted bes village streets. oldest pedest t restaurant in Sk Sweden’s åne. lagatan, www.fredriksdal.helsingborg.se on Kul arket as m istm Chr DECEMBER 13TH SANTA LUCIA DAY Take part in one of Sweden’s most magical south of Helsingborg. Sweden’s young- Pantry). This is the most peculiar res- Christmas traditions on Santa Lucia Day’s est castle (a 92-year-old whippersnap- taurant you may ever set foot in but the festival of light. A candlelight procession per) houses a hotel and restaurant that experience is unforgettable, especial- of young girls dressed in white glides hosts a Christmas buffet complete with ly at Christmastime. The entry to the into St. Mary’s Church and spellbinds the a small orchestra to entertain guests. country courtyard is laid with ever- audience with song. The procession and This is also the setting of an opulent green boughs that fill the air with rich, concert begin at 19:00 and are free. Twelfth Night ball in January where la- green perfume. Crossing the threshold dies in rustling gowns and their tuxedo- sends you into a wacky museum of ran- DECEMBER 14TH ed consorts dance and glitter in the ball- dom kitsch, where grown men and wo- SYMPHONY room. The castle grounds are lovely and men sit at rickety yard-sale tables and The revered Helsingborg Symphony Or- afford vast views of the Sound and the play with whatever toy or bauble they chestra pays tribute to Mozart’s life and little island of Ven. The surrounding find there. Meanwhile one lucky mem- travels with the symphony, “In the Masters hills and valleys offer some of Skåne’s ber of each party tries to keep track on Footsteps” at Helsingborg’s concert hall. premiere sledding if snow is forthco- an old clipboard of how many shots of www.helsingborgssymfoniorkester.se ming. The most enduring attraction in homemade Swedish schnapps everyo- the area must be the magnificent Örenäs ne is having. There is a wall of bottles JANUARY 6TH passage grave nearby. Several people at to choose from with handwritten la- TWELFTH NIGHT BALL a time can creep into the large, 5,000- bels announcing such unlikely flavours A black-tie affair at Örenäs Castle marks year-old grave chamber but bring a flas- as saffron, dill, ginger, horseradish and the traditional end of Christmas festivities. hlight and perhaps some candles for clove. Novel and zany as it is, it is hard www.orenasslott.com dramatic effect. Below the castle is the to understand what all the fuss is about, diminutive fishing village of Ålabodar- that is until you see the buffet spread. JANUARY 19TH-21ST na, “the eel shacks” where eel fishermen Long tables sag under the weight of 22 THE COD FESTIVAL traditionally lived. Walk along the only different kinds of homemade pickled Helsingborg hosts its 28th Annual Inter- road past picture perfect houses, to the herring, the best of the rest of traditio- national Cod Festival, one of the largest tiny harbour, where in the summertime, nal Swedish Christmas dishes and an international sea angling competitions in Sweden’s smallest restaurant serves visi- enormous Italian feast. Save room for the world, with a prize of SEK 400,000 tors through a window. the silky little panna cottas. If you find and SEK 50,000 for the biggest cod. The Step back in time in provincial Bil- a trinket that strikes your fancy you will festival, which usually includes over 600 leberga, 20 km southeast of Helsing- probably be able to take it home. Just participants takes place in the North Har- borg, where an out of the way farm hou- ask the waiter to put it on your bill. bor. Contact Hans Elmroth and Margareta ses Farbror Elofs Skafferi (Uncle Elof’s If Christmas fare is wearing thin head Andersson on +46 (0)430-32065.

SOSMAG.SE • 33 ■ Lifestyle/Travel Laurel Williams

back into town and straight to NIKLAS fiero or the restaurant in Dunkers. pineapple Flirtini spiked with Cointreau HELSINGBORG where the dashing The word gourmet originally meant and topped up with champagne. young celebrity chef Niklas Ekstedt devi- wine taster and at Lagmark on Sundstor- If the night is still young, follow ses beautiful winter dishes that please all get you can live out this meaning at a the music to Mink behind St. Mary’s the senses. The epic wine list matches his new shrine to wine, the “Vinotek”, that church. This is the place to dance till Classic French and Mediterranean cuisi- allows guests to sample some of the dawn and if the floor gets too crowded ne where you will detect masterful cur- world’s finest wines for a song. The long patrons are welcome to board the tables rents of experimentalism, reminiscent of gallery of stainless steel and glass prof- and the long (though narrow) bar and his time at Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, fers 40 bottles of fine wine but the doy- very regularly do. If you make a go at it El Bulli in Barcelona and French Laund- enne of the collection is the Chateau then you will be happy to discover that ry in Yountville, California. d’Yquem. A sip of this, the world’s most the ceiling is low enough to help you When you are hungry, New York sty- exclusive dessert wine, always seduces keep your balance. Bar tenders do brisk le, book a table at Brooklyn on the squ- first-time tasters. “In 25 years I never business anyhow, nimbly serving drinks are by St. Mary’s church. Inspired by the sold a bottle and now I sell one or two through the forest of twitching legs. legendary Peter Luger’s steakhouse un- a week,” proprietor Torbjörn Lagmark The Tivoli in the venerable old station der the Brooklyn Bridge, Chef-Patron declares. Lagmark is a foodie mecca that building by the ferry harbour is buzzing Rickard Persson serves whopping Por- also offers catering, cooking lessons, a almost every night with live concerts, terhouse and New York strip steaks and gourmet deli and an array of dainty Swe- stand-up comedy and drag shows. A jazz lobsters. In the lofty and genteel rooms dish tapas dubbed gourmetas. club lurks under Kullagatan and at the of the oldest restaurant in Sweden, now Bask in relaxed ambience at MeNTO Grand Hotel’s piano bar champagne home to the Café le Fils du Rasoir, you on Kullagatan, notably Helsingborg’s cocktails flow to the tunes of Elton John can savour a monstrous, steaming bowl only Cristal restaurant and where each and Robbie Williams. of French onion soup and other French dish includes something fresh off the A night on the town will leave you fee- classics. Come in from the cold at the grill. Your hosts, award-winning barten- ling that the 122,000 residents of Skåne’s new Copenhagen-style bistro and wine der Susann Nilsson and bartender/som- second city love life and are determined bar, Papi, just off Kullagatan. Designed melier Ola Book dazzle with clever con- to live it well. So come hither, bon vivants. by esteemed Danish architects Vand- coctions of fresh fruit and flavour fusions When the winter sun sinks into the dark kust, the interior features cozy sofa ni- inspired by the finer cocktail trends of slice of Denmark and the sounds feas- ches where you can nestle in for lunch or London. Try the Frisky Bison, an artful ting and laughter float out from candle- glass of wine. On weekends devour won- union of apple, pear, crushed mint and lit restaurants, the pearl of the sound is derful brunches at Papi, Brooklyn, So- lemon that is utterly fresh or the lavish your oyster. <

Local heroes share their best winter tips

Johan Wissman, Silver Medalist at the 2006 European Athletic Championships and Swedish record Håkan Nilsson, Niklas Ekstedt, Celebrity Chef and holder in the 200-meter sprint Wine Consultant and Writer Owner of NIKLAS HELSINGBORG “During the winter you really just want to “I love going to the Pålsjöbad sauna and “I go to the theatre and concerts and take ﬁnd a cosy place indoors and Helsingborg bathhouses in the late afternoon. I take winter walks at Soﬁero and Fredriksdal. has lots of restaurants and coffee shops to all my foreign visitors there for a sauna My favorite way to warm up is to visit suit every style. I like the restaurant and and a swim in the Sound. It is wonderfully one of Helsingborg’s three gourmet cho- lounge, Bara Vara, and the 50’s style cof- relaxing and also happens to be the best colatiers for a cup of delicious, rich hot fee shop Ebbas Fik on Bruksgatan that has hangover cure I know of.“ chocolate.” giant cookies and big slices of cake.”

34 • SOSMAG.SE

■ Lifestyle/Shopping Anna Maris

Christmas shopping

As the countdown to Christmas begins, the race is on to buy all those unique and thoughtful gifts,

organising ﬂ ights, spare rooms, Christmas food to suit all tastes and somehow ﬁ nding the time to smile.

To make Swedish Yuletide shopping enjoyable, head for the slow lane of the countryside and

get a cultural experience as part of the deal. Skåne style

©Svenska-Slottsmässor.se

“Julmarknad” at Christinehof Manor

WHERE THERE IS A “slott” there is generally also a Christmas by many to be the number one Christmas market. Still in the fa- Fair. These manor houses, a remainder of the Swedish aristocra- mily of Southern Sweden’s single largest landowner, the Pipers, cy, play host to some of the best seasonal craft fairs in the coun- the house has only been opened to the public in the last four years try. Most of the vendors attend several of the markets, many take and is a splendid example of the baroque era. The beautiful sight place already in early November, and vary in style and quality. of the walk up to the castle lit by burning torches conjures all the Virtually all the fairs charge an entrance fee, usually well worth images of julotta (the obligatory 6 o’ clock Lutheran church mass the money. on Christmas morning) without the disadvantage of needing to If mansion houses are not your thing, there are a number of wake up immediately after having just gone to bed. The fair is other interactive shopping experiences to be had, from Viking not primarily aimed at tourists. Many of the South Easterners village markets to organic farms. Here is a complete list of the themselves come here for the ultimate Christmas shopping ex- coolest places for your Christmas shopping! perience. Vendors are carefully selected and all traditional crafts Christinehof, deeply situated in southern Skåne, is considered are represented. Here you are guaranteed to ﬁ nd that special “ty-

36 • SOSMAG.SE Where to spend it

CHRISTENEHOFS SLOTT MANDELMANNS TYKARPSGROTTAN, NIVA125 2277 57 Brösarp TRÄDGÅRDAR IGNABERGA 6227 Finnsbo Tel 0417 263 70 Djupadal Rörum Tykarpsgrottan P. 7137 269 96 Båstad www.christinehof.nu 272 95 Simrishamn 281 90 Hässleholm Tel 0431 706 96 December 8 – 10 Tel 0414 244 48 Tel 0451 350 87 www.niva125.se Fri 11:00-19:00, www.mandelmann.se www.tykarpsgrottan.se Sat 10:00-18:00, December 16-17 3 MAGASIN Sun 10:00-17:00 BÅSTAD Källejö Gård FOTEVIKENS 2 December 271 91 Ystad BOSJÖKLOSTER MUSEUM www.bastad.com Tel 0411-55 94 94 CASTLE & GARDENS Museivägen 24 243 95 Höör 236 22 Höllviken WEAVERY IN BÅSTAD BO OHLSSONS I TOMELILLA Tel 0413 250 48 Tel 040 330 800 Boarp 269 95 båstad Malmövägen 12-14 www.bosjokloster.se www.foteviken.se Tel 0431 731 273 35 Tomelilla November 30– December 3 December 16-17 www.vavarenibastad.se Tel 0417 787 00 Skåne style Where there is a “slott” there is generally also a Christmas Fair.

pically Swedish” gift. Don’t miss “matboden” where many of the IF YOU DECIDE to head for Österlen, don’t

older-style traditional foods (including hand-made sausages) no miss 3 Magasin on the right side of the road

longer manufactured commercially can still be bought. as you drive in to Ystad. A wonderful store

housed in big farm buildings, it sells the la-

FOR A MORE FAMILY focused fair, Bosjökloster combines the test in clothes and homeware from some of

traditional Christmas fair with children activities, such as visit- the coolest Scandinavian labels such as

ing farm animals. Here, over ﬁ fty exhibitors put their crafts to ACNE jeans and Malene Birger.

market. The fair is also well known for its good range of foods But what for the lovers of kitch? As

and Christmas sweets. An early Christmas Fair, this is the place the ultimate antidote to traditional

for buying traditional Christmas decorations and all the gifts for Christmas craft and organic food

sending abroad in advance of the December rush. markets, Bo Ohlssons in Tomelil-

If you prefer an alternative Christmas, a visit to Mandelmanns la is just the thing. With southern n

t a

gardens in Rörum on Österlen is highly recommended. Also host Sweden’s largest display of roving C

l a to the Backafestivalen folk music festival in summer, the gardens electronic Santa decorations u s are a visual delight, as well as producing delicious vegetables in the shop sells large quantities a t F environmentally sustainable ways. This is a must for lovers of or- of ultra low price everyt- o t e ganic Christmas food, and the Christmas market also has pre- hing from golf clubs and v i k

sents and decorations. toys to kitchenware and n

For a Viking version of the Christmas market, head to Fotevi- generous sized luminous M

ken Viking village near Höllviken just south of Malmö. The orga- multi coloured Christ- s

u nisers also promise a bonﬁ re to shed light on the whole experience. mas decorations for the m

What could be more Swedish than genuine Viking presents? exterior of your house. . Scandinavias only underground Christmas market? Indeed! And with a reputation Photo: Skå[email protected] Skåne Skå[email protected] Photo: The old mines in Ignaberga are a truly magical place to present for having Sweden’s most your wish list to Santa – and to shop! Buy home made Christ- provincial TV commer- mas foods, herb-mixtures for ﬂ avouring your Swedish snaps and cials, this place may not items made from antlers! be very classy, but if it is If you want to experience the crafts fair but have access to oth- Swedish jester-style foot- er forms of high quality shopping, head to Båstad, the tennis ball supporters hats or metropolis, which becomes a traditional Christmas market for Wellington-boots with a couple of days at the beginning of December. If you are in the psychedelic patterns you area and don’t mind driving around a bit, you are spoilt for good are after – you have come to the shopping. Try the famous Weavery in Båstad, which makes and right place! sells beautiful linen cloths or the less traditional niva125 for fun- ky less-obvious Swedish design items. Merry Christmas!

SOSMAG.SE • 37 ■ Lifestyle/Food Anders Öhman and Bengt-Olof Andersson

Count down to

A traditional Swedish Christmas buffet

38 • SOSMAG.SE If you’re in Sweden the last few days leading up to Christmas, you might Anders Öhman and Bengt-Olof ”BoA” Andersson are seasoned sommeliers who overhear the Swedish expression, “da’n före da’n före doppareda’n” work together under the name, GUSTIBUS. Besides running a sommelier school, they (the day before the day before Dunkin’ Day). Even when translated, it’s hold classes on a wide range of alcoholic beverages and conduct various kinds of still unintelligible. tastings. For more information, visit www. gustibus.se or write to [email protected].

he expression has its ori- den, Christmas is celebrated on Julafton grönkål (green cabbage). Today’s Christ- gins in the Catholic pe- (Christmas Eve). Santa makes his appea- mas meal reflects the selection on offer a riod in Sweden. During rance on this day and families gather for century ago: fresh and cured meat, fish this time, it was forbidden the traditional big Christmas dinner. If preserves and – ta-dah! – cabbage. All this to eat meat the day befo- you’re invited to a Swedish home you will is washed down with akvavit and dark, re Christmas. To “beef up” their meagre be served what’s called Julbord, which is a sweet lager. For the sweet tooth there is suppers, folks dunked stale bread (freshly variation, or actually the origin, of smor- of course julmust, the dark malt soda that baked bread set aside for the big feast) in gasbord. Besides the compulsory cured sends Coke into the back of store rooms rich broth from the preparation of the fes- and boiled ham with a mustard crust, the- where it stays until January. tive slaughter. This pagan practice, a rem- re will be a variety of pickled herring, sau- nant of the midwinter sacrifice, continues sages, brawn and, of course, meatballs. Ve- Finding the genuine julbord today. Even if most people don’t dunk on getables? Well, of course! You can choose If you’re looking to sample a traditional Dunkin’ Day, the expression lives on. sweet pan-fried brunkål (brown cabbage), Swedish julbord, many restaurants offer

It’s important to know that in Swe- boiled rödkål (red cabbage) or creamed one form or another beginning the end ©Pål Allan/Swedish Institute/www.imagebank.sweden.se Allan/Swedish ©Pål If you’re invited to a Swedish home you will be served what’s called Julbord, which is a variation, or actually the origin, of Smorgasbord

Aquavit and “ glö gg” , traditional Swedish Christmas beverag es

SOSMAG.SE • 39 ■ Lifestyle/Food Anders Öhman and Bengt-Olof Andersson Courtesy of Östarps Gästgivaregård of Östarps Courtesy

Östarps Gästgivaregård, Lund

Gustibus recommendations:

For the akvavit beginner, we recommend Gammal Norrlands Akvavit, an elegant schnapps with the typical spices of fennel, cumin, and anis seed paired with a touch of sherry wood. Gammal Norrlands Akvavit. (SEK 184 Nr. 262)

We ﬁnd the traditional Swedish Christmas beer a bit too sweet for our taste palates. It actually ﬁlls you up before you’ve had a second helping from the Julbord. Therefore, Gustibus recommend Nils Oscar Kalasöl, a dark Swedish lager in a drier and more elegant style. Nils Oscar Kalasöl (SEK 17 Nr. 1310)

Grab the “Volvo” of glögg, Blossa Stark- vinsglögg, and join the holiday spirit. If you’re more into holidays and less into spirit, you can pick up a really good non-alcoholic version - Blossa Lättglögg - at any convenience store. Blossa Starkvinsglögg (SEK 62 Nr 8505)

A fun variation on the hot and spicy theme is Varm & Kall Astrakan. This is a locally produced apple wine that is laced with vanilla and cinnamon. As the name suggests, you may have it hot or cold. We prefer it hot; it’s like drinking hot apple pie! Varm & Kall Astrakan (SEK 35 Nr 2423)

40 • SOSMAG.SE of November until the last days before certainly encounter glögg. This is one of owned Vin & Sprit. To most people, this Christmas. Restaurants generally pre- the many strong traditions of the season is the archetype for glögg, even though sent a wider and richer buffet assortment and one you hardly can escape. Glögg, today the variety of blends is the same as than found in private homes. If you’re on literally meaning, “heated wine”, is not a hundred years ago. a quest for the quintessential julbord in unlike mulled wine or the glühwein, but Glögg is essentially a wine (mostly a setting that takes you back to old-time has its own speciﬁc style and ceremo- red) with added sweetness and infused Skåne, try Östarps Gästgivaregård in nies. with spices such as cinnamon, cardam- Blentarp. This is the closest you’ll get to The history of glögg can be traced om, cloves, vanilla, Seville orange, and a genuine Skåne inn. The establishment back to the Middle Ages, when heating, ginger. It is served heated in small cups has been in the Wollmer family for 60 sweetening, and spicing wine was a way or glasses with raisins and almonds on years and is well preserved as an open-air to make it potable and to help folks stay the side or directly from the heated pot. museum by Kulturen Lund. Please keep warm during the cold winter. By the end Crispy pepparkaka (gingerbread) is a in mind that this is an all-you-can-eat- of the 19th century, when most of today’s mandatory accompaniment to the sweet buffet. Take your time, be selective and Christmas traditions were established, and hot beverage. do as the locals do; stay away from bread the bottled glögg made its appearance. and potatoes. “We have that at home,” as Wine importers sold a plethora of ima- God Jul! the saying goes. ginative blends. Since the establishment www.gustibus.se of the state alcohol monopoly, all these The night is cold blends have been summoned up under a Östarps Gästgivaregård, but the wine is hot! single “universal” bottled glögg. The re- 270 35 Blentarp If you’re in Sweden in December and in- cipe exists relatively unchanged to this Tel 046-802 29, Fax 046-812 58 vited to a Christmas party you will most day in Blossa Starkvinsglögg from state- www.ostarpsgastis.se

WELCOME TO OUR WINE BAR

hoose from a selection of 40 different C wines by the glass from the world’s best vineyards from as little as SEK 10. 2 whites 2 reds from SEK 50

Enjoy with plates of top quality pâtés and cheeses.

www.lagmark.se

SOSMAG.SE • 41 ■ Lifestyle/Health Nicola Adams

Spirit reviving

Pass on the port, shun the sherry and treat yourself to a

spirit-reviving break at a Skåne spa. From hot chocolate

massages to seaweed soaks, Nicola Adams has discove-

red three spas to put a serious spring in your step and

42 • SOSMAG.SE Spa and Massage,

WHERE? Vittsjö, North Skåne.

IDEAL FOR....a romantic weekend Revive your spirits with some serious R&R this winter at a log cabin in the winter wonderland woodlands of Vittsjö and its ma- Private room with lake view gical ice covered lake. Where and how WHY? If a two-day winter break here, amidst stunning panoramic lake CONTACT PRICES views and countryside blanketed in snow, isn’t enough to relieve Spa and Massage Pensionat Spa weekend the stress of Christmas, then I don’t know what is. After a long Snapphanev 12 SEK 2,690 per person. Price inclu- drive through immaculately snow ploughed roads, the fresh air 280 22 Vittsjö des overnight stay, breakfast buf- and beautiful stretch of water takes your breath away. This oasis Tel. 04 51 234 40 fet, herbal Jacuzzi, massage chair of calm resting on the edge of the lake is a haven for natural re- Fax. 0451 233 44 and hot chocolate massage. laxation even in sub zero temperatures. www.spamassage.se Greeted on arrival by friendly staff and glasses of ice cold wa- [email protected] GETTING THERE ter (it is a spa after all) you are quickly swept into your new abo- Vittsjö Spa & Massage is located de – a stunning 110 sq m circular lake-view room with your very PRICES 20 kilometres north of own fireplace - and taken on a step by step guide on how to relax, One day spa package: SEK Hässlehom. which quite frankly is a godsend after the excesses of the party 750 Mon –Fri, SEK 850 Fri- Distance to Vittsjö: season. If you’re tired, stressed and craving a little space, think Sun. Price includes one day Malmö 147 km this: the two of you, a nights stay, friendly and professional mas- spa with outdoor Jacuzzi, back Helsingborg 100 km seurs, plus a four-course supper and breakfast delivered to your and neck massage, chi mas- Trelleborg 170 km room. What more could you ask for? sage, and fruit bowl. All you have to do is brave the cold and the occasional snow Hot Chocolate massage 55 BY PLANE fall to make the few yards, clad in a bath robe and slippers, to the min SEK 690 Fly to Ängelholm Airport, Hel- outdoor Jacuzzi. If Christmas really did wear you out that badly singborg (internal flights only), or – stay inside and take a traditional Swedish herbal bath or kick WHERE TO STAY Malmö Sturup Airport. back in a leather relaxation chair. It would be a sin not to enjoy Spa and massage a blissful 48 hours indulging in your own private room, Jacuzzi, Relaxation House BY TRAIN bathroom, spa facilities and everything on your doorstep. Snapphanev 12 Take the train to Hässleholm and 280 22 Vittsjö then a short taxi ride to Vittsjö WHAT ELSE IS ON OFFER? If the single log cabin is booked or you are looking for something a little more sociable, Vittsjö PRICES BY CAR spa has an array of treatments to refresh your spirits. If you love Relaxation cabin weekend From Malmö, take E4/E6 north chocolate (did someone just say chocolate?) and massages (well package: SEK 1,995 per per- toward Göteborg, take Exit E4 if I must) this is definitely the treatment for you. Aptly named son. Price includes massage, toward Markaryd, then take Road the ‘hot chocolate massage’, it involves just as the name suggests, Jacuzzi, four-course supper 117 to Hässleholm. Follow signs dark melted chocolate poured all over your body and massaged and buffet breakfast. to Vittsjö in using special techniques. The 85 per cent dark chocolate oil is said to not only make your skin soft and smooth but also relea- Pensionat Tallbackan From Helsingborg, take E4 North se endorphins and serotonin in your body to enhance a sense of anno 1913 to Markaryd and then the Road well-being. Talk about having your cake and eating it too....pure Verumsvägen 12 117 to Hässleholm. Follow signs indulgence. S-28022 to Vittsjö. If the sight of chocolate really is too much after the festive sea- Vittsjö son, why not opt for a back and neck massage or luxurious ‘chi’ From Trelleborg, take E22/E6 massage to really release the New Year in you. Get light head- Tel. +46 451 22017 north towards Göteborg, take Exit ed in the 38-degree outdoor spa with friends and fill your lungs Fax. +46 451 230 69 E4 toward Markaryd and then with fresh air or shake off the excesses of Christmas with a hike [email protected] Road 117 to Hässleholm. Follow along one of the numerous woodland paths. One thing’s for sure, www.tallbacken.nu signs to Vittsjö Vittsjö will certainly clear your head and rejuvenate your health.

SOSMAG.SE • 43 ■ Lifestyle/Health Nicola Adams

Torekows Warmbadhus & Hälsocenter Torekov

IDEAL FOR...a days pampering by the coast, braving a famous seaweed bath the traditional way

A relaxing day at Torekows Warmbadhus, which overlooks the island of Halland’s Väderö and the scattered rocks between, will literally blow you away, and I’m not just talking the gale- force winds. treatments. From massages, facials, and foot spas to waxing, pe- dicures and herbal baths, this spa has it all. Once the treatment WHY? is over, the relaxation begins. Wrapped in a fluffy bath robe and Just a few miles north of Helsingborg, Torekows Warmbadhus slippers, make your way upstairs to the relaxation room or step is an idyllic 19th century Scandinavian bathhouse perched on outside onto the deck for the wonderfully bracing fresh air and rocks overlooking the Kattegat Sea. salty sea spray. Crafted from wood washed up on the shore, the picturesque understated structure dates back to 1876 and was said to have Where and how been built for local fishermen, who scrubbed themselves clean with the abundant kelp seaweed. Today the spa has been fully CONTACT Box 111, 269 93 Torekov restored complete with traditional lion claw bathtubs and se- Torekows Warmbadhus Tel. +46 (0) 431 36 31 80 aweed, the essential ingredient of the spa treatments. & Hälsocenter Fax. +46 (0) 431 36 45 53 On entering the wooden house, guests are welcomed by un- Hamnplanen, [email protected] pretentious yet cosy old- fashioned pale green wooden walls and 260 93 Torekov www.torekovturism.net floors. Strangely enough, the wooden surroundings and spartan Tel. +46 (0) 431 36 36 32 look provides all the charm and warmth required for that ultima- Fax. +46 (0) 431 36 36 32 GETTING THERE te atmosphere. Doors off the corridor lead to private bathrooms www.torekovswarm Distance to Torekows where hot water and seaweed baths await, towels and bathrobes badhus.com Warmbadhus & Hälsocenter draped invitingly over the antique chairs. Malmö 120 km Seaweed is collected in buckets from the shore and treated at PRICES Helsingborg 60 km 90 degrees centigrade to soften and release slime. The result is Seaweed special: SEK 695 Trelleborg 150 km an often underestimated incredible source of minerals which Price includes seaweed bath many experts hail as one of the best natural mineral sources for and seaweed scrub, face BY PLANE the body with among others, antibiotic and antioxidant qualities mask and massage, relaxing Fly to Ängelholm Airport, Friendly, professional staff guide you to your bathroom before neck and back massage. Helsingborg (internal flights only) running through the basic process of the seaweed bath including See website for complete or Malmö Sturup Airports. climbing into the bath and drawing the seaweed up over your range of treatments. body. You are then left to enjoy the natural exfoliating and cle- BY TRAIN ansing qualities of the seaweed treatment. Mid-bathe, a mem- WHERE TO STAY Take the train to Båstad and then ber of staff slips into the room and gently starts to massage your Villa Thora Guest House 12-minute taxi ride from Båstad to face, neck and back. An invigorating seaweed scrub to boost the 269 93 Slattarodsvägen 1 Torekov plant’s natural effects follows this all while waves crash in the Torekov distance and soft music overhead lulls your senses. Experts be- Tel. +46 (0) 431 365 386 BY CAR lieve the seaweed works as a natural beauty booster that moistu- Fax. +46 (0) 431 365 555 From Malmö, take E6/E4 north rises, nourishes, exfoliates and tones your skin as well as reduces [email protected] toward Göteborg/Helsingborg. cellulite and enhances weight loss. Continue north on E6 toward A relaxation room with stunning views, coffee, tea and fresh PRICES Torekov. Take Exit 37 and follow fruits awaits. One thing’s for sure, there is nothing more relax- from SEK 750 for a single Road 105 to Torekov. ing, invigorating and naturally healthy than Torekows Warm- room and SEK 900 for a dou- badhus and health spa. ble including breakfast. From Helsingborg take the E4 North. Turn right just after Äng- WHAT ELSE IS ON OFFER? If you are still wary of seaweed OTHER CONTACTS elholm North and follow signs to after all those fights with your siblings on the beach, Torekows Torekov Tourist Bureau Torekov. Once in Torekov follow Warmbadhus offers a multitude of traditional non-seaweed Hamnplanan 2, signs to ‘Hamn’.

44 • SOSMAG.SE Ribbersborg

Kallbadhus AB Mens/presspromotion Photo:Pierre Malmö

WHERE? Malmö, south-west Skåne

IDEAL FOR...stealing yourself for a few hours with a back-to- basic cleansing cure the Swedish way – the sauna and sea

Referred affectionately to as ‘Ribban’, Ribbersborg Kalbadhus WHAT ELSE IS ON OFFER? stands majestically at the end of a pier off Malmö’s Ribersborg Do as the Swedes do and take some friends, a thermos of coffee beach and offers the ultimate quick fix the Scandinavian way. or tea and some sandwiches to enjoy while cooling off. Ladies There’s one catch – in order to enjoy it to the full you must leave can opt for a massage or solarium. If a warm cosy lunch is more your bathing suits at the door and brave it in your birthday suit. your thing, go to the café and enjoy the view of the Turning Tor- so and the Öresund bridge over a delicious bowl of hot soup or a WHY? steaming baked potato. After this cleansing treatment you will Separated into male and female sections, Ribban is set in a pale feel like a million dollars and, mark my words, you will soon be green wooden house that dates back to 1898. Built for the Baltic back for more. < Games, Malmö’s former Swimming Stadium was adapted in the 1930’s to provide nude bathing with a screen erected to preser- Where and how ve the modesty of each sex. Today Ribban still offers traditional nude bathing with the added benefit of wooden saunas with marvellous views of Malmö’s newly developed West Harbour and CONTACT PLANE Turning Torso, the Öresund Bridge and Denmark. AB Ribersborgs Saltsjöbad Fly to Malmö Sturup and An exposed walk along the pier is rewarded with a disposable Box 6078 Copenhagen International seating mat and locker key. Once inside, the choice is yours, the- 200 11 Malmö Airports re is the more basic option of the cold outdoor wooden changing cabins or a heated communal changing room complete with sho- Tel +46 40 26 03 66 TRAIN wers and hairdryers - I know which I would choose. Once und- Fax +46 40 26 37 25 Take the train to Malmö ressed, hot foot it (or cold foot it in this case) to the wooden sau- www.ribban.com Central. nas with panoramic views of the Sound. Sit among the regulars in up to 90 degrees heat and enjoy the PRICES (ADULT) BUS atmosphere until the warmth cleanses your skin and you start to One visit: SEK 50 The Number 32 bus goes glow with happiness and, err sweat. And finally, when the heat Card (ten visits): SEK 400 directly from Malmö Train gets too much, stroll outside into the (very!) fresh winter air and Card (one month): SEK 450 Station to Ribban. take a quick plunge into the ice cold Öresund (I’m serious). Re- Card (six months): SEK 1,000 peat steps one and two if you are brave enough. It sounds crazy Card (one year); SEK 1,800 CAR but it really is the most exhilarating, refreshing and cleansing ex- From Gothenburg take the E4 perience you will get in 2007. PRICES (YOUTH) to Helsingborg turn onto the One visit: SEK 35 E6 and then take the E20 to Card (ten visits): SEK 200 Malmö. Once in Malmö fol- Card (one month): SEK 255 low signs for Limhamn along Card (six months): SEK 450 Limhamnsvägen. You will Card (one year): SEK 900 pass Malmö Museum on your left and Turning Torso in the Gijersgatan 55, 216 19 Malmö, Tel: 040 163200, www.orestadskliniken.com Sitting Cloth: SEK 3 distance on your right. Once Towel rental: SEK 20 parallel to the beach take the first turning on the right into GETTING THERE the Ribban parking lot. Distance to Ribbersborg Kalbadhus Helsingborg 60 km Chiropractor Chiropractor Trelleborg 30 km Acupuncturist Acupuncturist Are you in pain? Call 040-16 32 00

SOSMAG.SE • 45 ■ Lifestyle/Golf Paul Steele BE A BETTER GOLFER BETTER A BE

FIVE TIPS FROM JAKOB: TOP TIPS FROM PGA PRO JAKOB STENBERG. 1. Don’t worry, be happy. Don’t try to complicate things, just focus on hitting the ball, not whether WHATEVER YOUR standard of golf there are days when nothing works. Your arms get inexplicably shorter and you end up your back, head, arms, toes, etc are long, short, mis-hitting the ball, mostly through tension. or still enough. “Just take it easy,” says Jakob Stenberg, PGA pro at Hylliekro- kens Golf Center. “You are on the course for at least four hours, 2. Have a strategy. Look to where you want to but hit the ball for less than three minutes. It’s important that you clear your mind of all the good advice you get from friends and place the ball and focus on putting it there. colleagues and just go with the flow,” advises Jakob. He says people spend too much time thinking, usually negatively, about how 3. Practice like you play. You never use a driver to hit instead of just hitting the ball and enjoying themselves. As more than 12 or so times in a round. So, why hit the song goes, “Free your mind and the rest will follow.” < 50 drives in a row when you train? Use a driver followed by a 7 iron, followed by a chip, etc. Jakob Stenberg has been a professional 4. Don’t ignore your short game. You use at least golfer since 1992. half of your shots on and around the green. Make He has worked both in Sweden and Nor- it half your practice time. way at clubs like Falsterbo. Drott- 5. Take your time. The more you try to hurry th- ningholm, Sofiedal rough a shot, the more you’re likely to hit the ball and Rönnebäck. You can contact Jakob incorrectly. “Just be smooth,” says Jakob. A fitting

If you like golf, you’ll love Skåne. Book on-line at www.skanegolf.com : Position Skåne © sydpol.com BARSEBÄCK G & CC HOLE 17, PAR 4. PHOTO

GOLF IN SKÅNE

  46 • SOSMAG.SE   LIVING HERE

Buying an apartment:

SO YOU DREAM of owning your own apartment in Sweden. Here are nine things you should do: Visions dance in your head of snug holiday gatherings where you can feel confident about knocking in a nail wherever you please to hang the mistletoe. But before you start sending out 1. Take your time in the apartment, checking the kitchen and the invitations, know that buying an apartment here is a com- bathroom carefully, and be alert for any signs of water damage plicated affair. or thin, poorly soundproofed walls. The first thing to get to grips with when you set out to buy an apartmentBuying in Sweden, is that you do not actually get to buy the 2.Time Ask about the condition of the roof, the heating system, apartment. What you actually buy is the right to use the apart- the elevator, the plumbing, the electrical wiring and the win- ment for all eternity, as opposed to renting where your landlord dows of the building. is permitted to evict you with three months notice. In fact, you become your own landlord, in a sense, because you also become 3. Ask about parking options. a part owner of the whole building without actually owning any specific piece of it. 4. Confirm with the agent or owner that the appliances you see in the apartment are included. WHEN YOU BUY the right to use your apartment, you are also required to join the cooperative housing society of the building, 5. Inspect the apartment and all of the shared areas including to whom you will pay a joining fee and a monthly rent, on top of the attic, basement, laundry room, garage and stairwell. As your loan payments on the purchase. This may seem perplexing the buyer, you are responsible for making sure your observa- - even outrageous - to a newcomer, but any Swede will tell you tions get recorded on the official inspection document before it is all very straightforward; the monthly fee pays for property you move in. taxes, the upkeep of the building itself, the grounds, shared areas such as the laundry room, stairwell, and garage and often co- 6. Get a copy of the annual report that each housing society is vers services, including water utility and garbage collection. required to publish and read it to be certain the cooperative is These housing societies function much like a small country. financially stable and well-managed. Each dwelling is given one vote at a yearly meeting to decide who will be on the board of directors and handle the finances 7. Check with the agent or the board to ensure the previous and day-to-day decisions of the cooperative. The board must owner does not have outstanding debts with the apartment also approve your membership before you are allowed to join, as collateral. but it is uncommon anyone is denied that right. Many organizations even hold informative courses for prospective apartment 8. Ask for the building plans of the apartment so you can buyers to help them understand the logic of this system. check the location of wiring, plumbing and bearing walls. You want to know before you buy if your bold plans for dropping THE BEST PLACES to start looking for new apartments up for walls, to make room for that competition-size billiards table, sale are on the websites of the nationwide housing cooperative are feasible. organizations such as HSB, Riksbyggen or SBC. You can also contact a real estate agent to help you in your search or check 9. Finally, take out a home insurance policy that has a specific the paper or Internet for older apartments sold on the private clause just for the special housing cooperative situation. Un- market. A good place to start your search is www.hemnet.se. like renters, members of housing cooperatives have extensive Go to as many showings as you can to get an idea of what maintenance responsibility for their dwellings. the market is like and find out what similar apartments in the >

SOSMAG.SE • 47 area or in the same building have sold for. Be aware that when have run the gauntlet and emerged unscathed shock your new an agent invites you to view an apartment, another 15 prospec- neighbors by throwing a grand old housewarming party, and tive buyers may be there at the same time. If you decide to buy inviting them all to come. < the apartment, these are the people you will be bidding against. Many apartments sell for a great deal more than the original Laurel Williams asking price in places where demand is high, that is to say, in almost every Swedish city, so prepare yourself for a nail-biter when the bidding starts. American ex-pat Laurel Williams lives in Helsingborg and has As is often the case in Sweden, there are innumerable regu- spent the past nine years living, studying and working in Swe- lations specifically governing the sale and ownership of apart- den. She is currently an English Copywriter at a B2B marke- ments. Refer to your municipal housing authorities and munici- ting agency and a Journalist. Having bought, sold and rented pal consumer guidance office for all the details. And when you several flats in Sweden she offers some tips to first-timers.

These housing societies function much like a small country. ©HSB Turning Torso/Photo: Erland Andersson Erland Torso/Photo: Turning ©HSB

Deluxe living in the Turning Torso

48 • SOSMAG.SE YOUR GUIDE TO THE MONTHS AHEAD December 1 – Januari 31 2007 (With reservation for changes and cancellations)

The �istings 53 54

55 56 ��

�� palladium baroque �� january 25-28, 2007

SOSMAG.SE • 49 MUSIC December 31 19:30, December 9 16:00, 18:30 December 3 12:00 Concert begins 21:30 Christmas carols Höör’s Music School & Youth New Years Celebrations Orchestra perform CLASSICAL – OPERA December 10, 17:00 Opera soloist: Tito Beltran & Ji Hye Son Christmas carols December 14 19:00 Musical soloist: Åsa Fång & December 12 19:30 Christmas Concert with Höör’s MALMÖ Christopher Wollter The Refreshments, with Mats Ronader & Music School Malmö Konserthus Malmö Opera Orchestra Gutav Möllers gatan 5 Nisse hellberg Directed by Joseph Swensen MELBY Tel 040 34 35 00 December 14 19:30 Melby Atelier, Södra www.mso.se In the footseps of the msters Palladium Tel 0411 711 17 December 7 19:30 Södergatan 15 Helsingborg Symphony Orchestra December 2 15:30 Advent Concert www.palladium.nu January 6 15:00, 18:30 Ensemble Mare balticum Haydn, The Creation Tel 040 611 28 09 Epiphany concert Malmö Symphony Orchestra Tickets: 040 10 30 20 January 11 19:30 Directed by Paul McCreesh CONTEMPORARY December 3 15:00 Famous Russians in Helsingborg JAZZ, BLUES December 13-14 19:30 Chamber Music Performance Solist: Martin Sturfält, piano Christmas Concert Malmö Symphony Orchestra Wilhelm Stenhammar: Piano concert nr 2 MALMÖ Lund’s Vocal Ensemble December 9 15:00 Anton Bruckner: Symphony Jeriko Malmö Symphony Orchestra Christmas Concert nr 3 d-minor Spångatan 38 Directed by Johannes Gustavsson Singers: Vocal Six Directed by Alexander Vedernikov Tel 040 10 30 20 December 31 14:00, 17:00 December 10 18:00 January 21 18:30 www.jeriko.info New Year’s Concert From Silent Night to White Christmas, Silent winds from the East December 7 19:30 Malmö Symphony Orchestra Christmas songs with Nils Landgren. Soloist: Jan-Erik Gustavsson, violon cello Kullrusk Directed by Mikhail Agrest Sergej Prokofjev: Sinfonia Concertante December 15 19:30 Two of Sweden’s leading saxophonists Peter Tjajkovskij: Symphony nr 5 in e-minor January 5 15:00, 18:00 The People’s Christmas Jonas Kullhammar and Per ”Ruskträsk” Viennes Waltz featuring Strauss Directed by Alexander Vedernikov Johansson perform. December 17 15:00 Soprano: Gisela Stille Christmas Chamber Concert December 9 19:30 Malmö Symphony Orchestra KRISTIANSTAD World Mix Orchestra&Relay Malmö Mottet Choir Kristianstad Konserthuset January 17 18:00 World Music and Jazz Malmö Symphony Orchestra’s brass Lilla Salen After Work ensemble www.kristianstad.se Tjajkovskij Symfoni nr 5 LUND January 14 15:00 Tel 044 13 53 35 Malmö Symphony Orchestra Mejeriet Pianist Roland Pöntinen Directed by Vassily Sinaisky December 1 19:30 Stora Södergatan 64 Schumann ‘Davidsbündlertänze op. 6’ Nils Landgren’s Christmas Songs www.kulturmejeriet.se January 18 19:30 Prokoﬁ ev ‘Sonat nr. 2 op. 14’ From Silent Night to White Christmas Tel 046 13 13 47 Welcome Maestro! Debussy ‘Suite Bergamasque and three December 2 14:00 Tjajkovskij Symfoni nr 5 movements’ December 2 13:00 Christmas Concert Malmö Symphony Orchestra Also Chopin & Stefan Pöntinen Jazz Brunch – French Trio Violin: Sergej Krylov Singers: Vocal Six January 21 15:00 December 9 13:00 Directed by Vassily Sinaisky December 3 17:00 Chamber Music Performance Jazz Brunch – Kullrusk Kristianstad’s Big Band ensemble January 21 19:30 Malmö Symphony Orchestra New Years Concert 2007 December 8- 9 18:00 HELSINGBORG January 25-28 Shönbrunn Castle orchestra from Vienna, Lucia Concert Dunkers Kulturhus Palladium Baroque Austria Kungsgatan 11 Festival of baroque music December 10 14:00 Srauss Kristianstad’s Girls’ Christmas Show Tel 042 10 74 00 www.dunkerskulturhus.se January 25 19:30 HELSINGBORG Symphony Concert Dunkers Kulturhus LUND December 1, 2 19:30 Nystroem Sinfonia del mare Kungsgatan 11 Lunds Stadshall Stunt Festival – Quality Rossini ”Una voce poco fa” ur Barberaren Tel 042 10 74 00 Stortorget Scandinavian Jazz i Sevilla www.dunkerskulturhus.se Tel: 046 35 63 41 December 5 19:00 Rossini ”Nacqui all’affanno...” from www.lundskonsthall.se December 5 19:30 Diamonds in the Snow. Cinderella Diamonds in the Snow December 2 11:00 A Night of Romance with Bruckner Symfoni nr 4 A romantic evening with singer, Susanna From pepparkakeland Susanna Andersson Malmö Symphony Orchestra Andersson, and pianist, Francisca Skoogh. January 1 16:00, 19:30 Pianist: Francisca Skoogh. Direcetd by Christoph New Years Concert Piano soloist: Hans Helsingborgs Konserthus The Helsingborg Jazz Club Malmö Opera and Music Theatre Pålsson.Singer soloist: Malin Nilsson Drottninggatan 19 Violin soloist: Alexandra Hjortswang Kullagatan 8 Östra Rönneholmsvägen 20 Tel 042-10 42 70 Tel 042 18 49 00 www.malmoopera.se New Year’s symphony orchestra www.helsingborgskonserthus.se Directed by Kjell-Åke Bjärming. Tel 040 20 85 00 December 9 21:00 December 1 19:30 Program: Strauss, Mozart, Verdi, Trulsson Trio & Anders Bergcrantz December 8 - January 20 Ainbusk Heliga room Charpentier, Saint-Saëns, Dvorak and Opera - La Bohème Puccini. Helsingborgs Konserthus Opera by Giacomo Puccini & Giuseppe December 2 19:30 Drottninggatan 19 Giacosa/Luigi Illica A Glen Miller Christmas show HÖÖR Tel 042-10 42 70 November 11- January 21 December 3 16:00 Höör Kulturhuset Anders www.helsingborgskonserthus.se OPERA – DEAD MAN WALKING Christmas concert www.kulturhoor.nu Opera by Jake Heggie & Terrence McNally Tel 0413 257 13

50 • SOSMAG.SE January 27 20:00 Baltiska Hallen November 18 – December 10 December 16-21 A love song for Frank Sinatra Stadiongatan 10 Planet Per Musical – ’A Christmas Carol’ A musical tribute to the 50’s legend, Frank Tel 040 34 26 81 A programme based on two modern by Charles Dickens Sinatra, with Maja Gullstrand, Niklas December 15 classics by Per Jonsson, Stefan Ljungqvist plays Ebenezer Scrooge Fredin, and Jenny & Emma Freij. The Christmas Concert performed by Skånes Dans Teater January 1 – 19 THEATRE HÄSSLEHOLM Victoria Theatre Lunch dance 12:00 – 13:00 Hässleholm kulturhus S.Förstadsgatan18 Take a colleague to a dance performance Ystads Teater Tel 0451 26 73 10 Tel 04010 30 20 for a totally different lunch experience. Tel 0411 57 71 99 www.hassleholm.se www.victoria.se www.ystad.nu/teaterforening December 5 19:00 December 15 19:30 Malmö Konserthus November 3 – December 1 19:00 Christmas Jazz Adolphson & Falk Gutav Möllers gatan 5 The Gull by Tjechov Tel 040 34 35 00 A crazy comedy with a deadly closing www.mso.se CONCERTS – LIVE Malmö Mässan December 8 19:00 PERFORMANCES Tel 0771 18 19 00 January 28 19:30 Richard III by William Skakespeare www.malmomassan.se Flames of Passion MALMÖ December 1-2 A salute to dancers from the Middle East Kulturbolaget (KB) Christmas Gala EXHIBITIONS Bergsgatan 18 With Peps Persson, HIPP HIPP!, Timbuktu, THEATRE & MUSICAL Tel 040 30 20 11 Titiyo, Robert Jelinek and Damn! CONTEMPORARY ART www.kulturbolaget.se Slaghuset December 1 22:00 LUND Jörgen kocksgatan 7A MALMÖ Woven Hand with David Eugene Edwards Mejeriet Tel 040 630 68 00 Malmö Konsthall December 2 22:00 Stora Södergatan 64 December 5 -7 20:00 St Johannesgatan 7 Tel 040-341293 Lisa Miskovsky Tel 046 13 13 47 Immature men celebrate Christmas www.kulturmejeriet.se www.konsthall.malmo.se December 7 21:00 Patrik Larson, Måns Möller, and Özz Nujen December 2 - February 18 John Legend & Band December 2 21:00 (Swedish only) Wild Wax Combo & J-Rex @ Retro Blaster SARAH SZE December 9 21:00 January 25 – February 11 19:30 For all you rockabillies, hillbillies, swingcats A Swiftly Tilting Planet The Plan Guys and Dolls and retro-worshipers, your prayers have Musical December 15 23:00 been answered: a night of American root Malmö Konstmueum Fattaru Slottsholmen music. HIPP December 30 21:00 Malmöhusvägen December 3 20:00 Kalendegatan 12, Malmö Hardcore Superstar Tel 040 34 44 37 CALAISA Tel 20 86 00 [email protected] January 27 This Malmö group mixes Irish folk music, January 27 – February 24 20:00 November 11 – January 28 A tribute to Pink Floyd: The Gunners country and pop in a unique way. Life came so suddenly Dream Perform Dark Side of the Moon Barbro and Holger Bäckströms December 25 23:00 - a monologue about the struggle to gain Jeriko Konststipendium Christmas party jam! respect. Spångatan 38 Sweden’s hottest band, Damn!, performs. December 3 – February 4 Tel 040 10 30 20 INTIMAN Marie-Louise Ekman/Bjarne Melgaard www.jeriko.info HELSINGBORG Östra Rönneholmsvägen 20 December 9 19:30 HIF-Hallen Tel 040 20 86 00 Skånes Konsförening World Mix Orchestra & Relay Tel 0771 18 19 00 January 20 – February 24 Bragegatan 15 www.skaneskonst.se World Music and Jazz www.laberowells.se The Party 20:00 November 24 – December 16 December 16 19:30 December 13-14 18:00, 21:00 Sofi e Josefsson and Karin Solberg Navidad Flamenco Christmas Spectacular with Robert Wells DANCE Flamenco dancers from Seville and Joe Labero Cirkulationscentralen Amiralen Dunkers Kulturhus Nobelvägen 125 Amiralsgatan 35 Kungsgatan 11 www.cirkulationscentralen.com Tel 040 12 02 40 THEATRE DANCE Tel 042 10 74 00 November 24 – December 3 November 29 – December 16 www.dunkerskulturhus.se Sofi a Sundberg Arrival ABBA show MALMO - DANCE Palladium December 15 19:30 Elastic Slagthuset Södergatan 15 Navidad Flamenca – Christmas Flamenco Bragegatan 15 / Ystadvägen 22 Jörgen kocksgatan 7A Tel 140 10 30 20 Dancer: La Marquesita www.elasticprojects.org Tel 040 711 11 www.dansstationen.nu Guitarist: J.M. Tudela [email protected] December 8 19:30 November 24 – December 16 Runo Lagomarsino November 10 – December 16 19:00 Platform THEATRE Glenn Wish & the New Memphis Form/Design Center Orchestra Båghallarna in Malmö Lund Stadsteater Lilla Torg, Malmö Glen Wish sings Elvis Presley’s songs; he Östra Varvsgatan 13 Kiliansgatan 13 www.formdesigncenter.com does it his way. www.skanesdansteater.nu Tel 040 13 14 15 Tel 040 20 85 00 www.lund.se/stadsteatern December 1 – January 28 December 18 20:00 Bruno Mathsson in association with The Kelly Family – Acoustic Tour December 12 19:00 Richard III by William Shakespeare Karin and Bruno Mathssons fond and the January 25– February 15, 2007 19:30 Arcitecturemuseum Guys & Dolls A Broadway musical SOSMAG.SE • 51 Galleri 21 September 23 – January 7 An exhibition of the richest archaeological November 30 – December 3 Rådmansgatan 5 Moderna Museet c/o Dunkers Kulturhus: fi nds of ceramics from the Stone Age in 11:00 -17:00 www.galleri21.com Eyewitness Northern Europe. Christmas at Bosjökloster November 11 – December 3 November 3 – January 4 A traditional Skåne Christmas market with Kari Cavén Veils handicraft and delicatessen in the castle, FESTIVALS FAIRS stables & vaults. Galleri Signal KRISTIANSTAD MARKETS S Skolgatan 31 Kristiansds Konsthall LUND www.signal-galleri.org Stora Torg EVENTS FOR THE Kulturen Tegnérsplatsen, Lund November 10 – December 17 Tel 044 13 52 45 ENTIRE FAMILY Tel 046 35 04 10 Group exhibition www.regionmuseet.m.se/mer/konsthall/ www.kulturen.com aktuellutst.htm MALMÖ Galleri S:t Gertrud October 28 – January 14 HIPP December 3 12:00-18:00 Konstfrämjandet Skåne No Man’s Land Kalendegatan 12, Malmö Julstök - Christmas preparations at Östergatan 9a, 211 25 Malmö Nils Gunnar Zander 040-20 86 10 Kulturen JULSTÖKET is an annual event to help www.konstframjandet.org January 27 – March 18 2007 December 7 – February 1 you prepare for Christmas. Come and November 25 – December 16 Installation, Anders Kappel Astrid Lindgren’s ”Mio min Mio” see craftspeople at work and buy their Cecilia Qvarnström creations. DRAWINGS & HELSINGBORG Wuthering Heights Fredriksdal Museum and Gardens SCULPTURES TOMELILLA Nobelvägen 125 Gisela Trapps väg 1 Cristinehofs Slott www.wutheringheights.se STAFFANSTORP Tel 042 10 45 00 Brösarp Staffanstorps Konsthall www.fredriksdal.helsingborg.se November 24 – December 3 Tel 0417 263 70 Blekingevägen 1 Mell Gran December 9-10 11:00 -19:00 www.christinehof.nu Tel 046 25 12 65 Christmas at Fredriksdal Museums & December 8-10 10:00-18:00 Galleri Rostrum October 28- December 10 Gardens Christinehof Christmas Fair Västergatan 21 C.O. Hultén Christmas fun and activities for children One of Skåne’s most famous Christmas www.rostrum.nu and adults at Fredriksdal Museums and market takes place annually at Gardens. November 18 – December 10 PHOTOGRAPHY Christinehofs Manor in Tomelilla. Fernández Pons Emphasis is on all things traditional. HÖÖR MALMÖ Exhibition and sale of original work from Bosjökloster Slott LUND Malmö Museer over 70 artists and craftsmen. All the Höör Lunds Konsthall Slottsholmen delicacies of the Christmas table will be Tel 0413 250 48 Mårtenstorget 3 Malmöhusvägen shown off to great advantage at a special www.bosjokloster.se www.lundskonsthall.se Tel 040 34 44 39 food shop. www.malmo.se/museer Open Tues,Weds,Fri,Sun 12:00 -17:00, Thurs 12:00 -20:00, Sat 10-17:00 November 19 – December 17 December 9 – January 7 New Sights Electrohype 2006 Pictures and postcards of Malmö photographed by Malmö residents. Konstföreningen Aura December 2 – February 18 Krognoshuset, Mårtenstorget, I want you to know by Ulla Lemberg www.kulturservern.se/aura A retrospective exhibition potraying the November 25 – December 17 living situations of women all over the Enrique Battista, Aurafi lm world.

Galleri Pictura HELSINGBORG Svartbrödersgatan 3, 221 00 Lund Dunkers Kulturhus www.arthist.lu.se Kungsgatan 11 Tel 042 10 74 00 Open Tues – Sat 12:00-15:00 www.dunkerskulturhus.se December 12 – December 22 Conny Blom and Carl Johan Engberg September 29 – January 7 Eye Witness January 13 – February 3 A huge exhibition of press photography Ninia Sverdrup from around the world.

HELSINGBORG Dunkers Kulturhus OTHER Kungsgatan 11 YSTAD Tel 042 10 74 00 Klosret in Ystad www.dunkerskulturhus.se Sant Petri Kykoplan April 1 – January 28 Tel 0411 57 72 86 Odin’s Eye www.klostret.ystad.se The struggle between people and power in pre-Christian Northern Europe. Feb 19 – December 21 2007 Divine Shards – Cult into Art Winterland at Malmö Folkets Park

52 • SOSMAG.SE Tickets: Tel 0770 170 70 70 SPORTS SKÅNE KIDS [email protected] September 15 – December 16 MALMÖ MALMÖ Musical. The Electric Banana Band Baltistca Hallen Folkets Park (all ages) Stadiongatan 10 www.malmo.se/vinterland Musical - Banankontakt Tel 040 34 26 81 Tel 34 10 00 A jungle-saga starring Trazan and Banarne www.handboll.info/ January 1-7 17:00-20:00 and other jungle characters. There is Winterland in Malmö Folkets Park (all ages) music, dancing, and singingg. So fasten World Cup Handball December 7-8 Theatre performances and dance and your seat-belts cause this adventure is 18:00 and December 10 16:15 activities for the entire family. Bananas! European Championship in Ladies’ Handboll Malmö Baltiska Hallen Malmö Symphony Orchestra Stadiongatan 10 Malmö Konserthus Mamma Mu and Crow, Isstadion – Malmö Stadion Charlotte Weibulls Folksivcenter Tel 040 34 26 81 Gutav Möllers gatan 5 John Ericssons Väg December 13:00 & 16:00 (all ages) Tel 040 34 35 00 Tel 040 34 26 81 Doris & The Crispbrothers www.mso.se www.malmoredhawks.com A fun-packed Christmas show for both kids December 16 12:00, 14:00, & 16:00 HELSINGBORG September 21 – February 28 and adults Teddy bear concert (4 yrs +) Dunkers Kulturhus Ice hockey games in Malmö – Malmö Children get to take their favourite teddy Kungsgatan 11 Redhawks Barnens Scen bear with them to this popular children Tel 042 10 74 00 Falstebogatan 17 classical concert. Choir, Lucia procession www.dunkerskulturhus.se Malmö IP Folkets Park and soloists from Lund’s Kulturskolan Tel 040 888 07 Tel 040 10 30 20 Malmö Symphony Orchestra December 3 15:00 September 3 – October 28 December 2 14:00 Children Theater Football Folk music party (6-16 yrs) Charlotte Weibulls folklivscenter The Elephant God (5-12 years) Malmö FF matches in the female division One of Sweden’s most popular folk music Åkarp, Burlov In Swedish only Tel 040 46 50 80 band, Avadå entertains at Barnens Scene. LUND www.charlotte-weibull.se KRISTIANSTAD Högevallsbadet Museet Leksaksland December 1 – 31 Kristianstad’s Regional Museum Högevallsgatan Fredriksbergsgatan 16 Tues, Weds, Fri, 10:00-16:00, Storar Torg Tel 046 12 82 60 Tel 040-661 07 00 Thurs 10:00-18:00 Tel 044 13 57 31 www-skoposeidon.nu www.leksaksland.se Nils Holgersson exhibition www.regionmuseet.m.se [email protected] This year is the 100th anniversary of October 15- February 25 November 15 - March 11 (all ages) the book, The Wonderful Adventures CONFERENCES Mamma Mu and Kråkan (3 – 7 years) Toy exhibit of Nils Holgersson, by Swedish Nobel (Swedish only) TRADE FAIR The Chronicles of Narnia: the Lion, the Prize laureate, Selma Lagerlöf. Nils A series of exhibits and storytelling witch, and the wardrobe Holgerssson’s journey started in Skåne and surrounding Mamma Mu, a curious cow MALMÖ the anniversary is celebrated at Charlotte November 15 – March 11 ( all ages) and her sceptical companion, Kråkan, Weibulls Folklivscenter with many activities Toy exhibit the crow. MalmöMässan for children. The Swedish McDonald’s Happy Meal Tel 0771 18 19 00 toys: 20 years HÖÖR www.malmomassan.se LUND Skånes Djurpark /Skåne’s Zoo Lund Stadsteater January 31 – February 1 Malmö Opera Jularp Höör Kiliansgatan 13 ICT Östra Rönneholmsvägen 20 Tel 0413 55 30 60 Tel 040 13 14 15 Union Fair arranged by easy Fairs Tel 040 20 85 00 www.skanesdjurpark.se IT- executives and buyers can see products December 16-21: ????? December 2 10:00 – 15:00 and network Musical – ’A Christmas Carol’ Santa Claus party at Skåne’s Zoo. by Charles Dickens Stefan Ljungqvist plays Ebenezer Scrooge

Kulturen Tegnérsplatsen, Lund Tel 046 35 04 10 www.kulturen.com December 10 12:15-13:25 or 13:45-14:45 Make your own Christmas decorations (all ages)Chistmas activity workshop for children. Maximum 30 children Reservation required, Tel 046-35 04 32 December 17 12:15-13:25 or 13:45-14:45 Make your own Christmas decorations (all ages) Chistmas activity workshop for children. Maximum 30 children Scene from Electric Banana band, Malmö Opera house Reservation required, Tel 046-35 04 32

SOSMAG.SE • 53 SOUTH OF SWEDEN LIFESTYLE & BUSINESS MAGAZINE NO 1 SPRING 2007 0:- FEE

“Psst..South of Sweden will be back in April – pass it on.”

54 • SOSMAG.SE SOUTH OF SWEDEN Talk Back LIFESTYLE & BUSINESS MAGAZINE NO 1 SPRING 2007 0:- FEE ’tis the season to be cosy

Around this time, four years ago, you might have found me baking? Baking by candlelight, maybe, and I’m sure a few Swe- on a New York City subway embroidering a homemade scarf des do that too. - not with a s et of initials or a name, but an adjective . Up and down with the needle and thick blue embroidery thread, so- IF SWEDEN IS bubbling with cosiness throughout the year, it mewhere betw een East Broadway and Brooklyn, I put the ﬁ - is absolutely boiling over with it in December. The coming of nal ﬂ ourish on the ‘g’ in my sig. the darkness in late afternoon seems to beg for a thick novel, a

LONG BEFORE I could string a sen- tence together in Swedish, I heard Sweden excels at cosiness, and every year when the this word and loved it. And since I couldn’t speak it, I stitched it instead. summer and the daylight fade I’m reminded of this. “Psst..South of Sweden I’VE HEARD IT said that English is a richer language than Swedish – more comfy couch, and pyjamas at 4 p.m. Here in Malmö, when you wo rds, mo re nuances. But there are plenty of times –my- do venture outside in early winter, you’re guided do wn the road will be back in April sig being one of them – when Swedish gets it spot on. by Christmas stars and Advent candles glowing in the windows As an adjective, cosy does the job, but when compared of almost every apartment. Awaiting shoppers downtown are to mysig i t feels thin. More than just an adjective, my- cute red ki osks selling Christmas presents, marzipan pigs, and – pass it on.” sig can be turned into a prefi x. Chop off the ‘ig’, stick on warm waffl es with jam. your chosen noun and you now have a compound cosy noun. Byxo r (pants) become mys byxo r (cosypants); mid- GOING ON MY fourth winter living in Sweden, I’ve had my fair dag (dinner) becomes mysmiddag (cosy dinner); myskväll share of waffl es and marzi pan and I’ve done a lot of complain- (cosyevening), mysbelysning (cosylighting) and so on. ing about the bitter wind in Malmö. But, I’m still the girl who There are most likely rules fo r this usage – mo re and less would em broider mysig on a scarf – a sucker for winter cosiness accepted combinations – but I like the idea that any ob- to the co re. ject can be turned into a cosy version of itself. NO ONE CAN HELP but love the sunny days of June and the Next issue will be out in April EVEN BETTER THAN the mys prefi x, the Swedes ac- late-night swims of August, bu t my m ost beloved Sweden is the tually use cosy as a verb. What did we do last night? Vi dark, grey and cold variety. So keep your maypoles and your myste framfo r tv:n. We cosied in front of the TV. crayfi sh parties and give me a mug of glögg after a freezing 2007. Visit www.sosmag.se winter walk and I’ll call myself happy. Come Fe bruary, the no- IT’S NO WONDER that mysig is so versatile. Sweden ex- velty of waking for work well before sunrise and navigating cels at cosiness, and every year when the summer and the icy bike paths will probably have worn off. But it’s still the be- daylight fade I’m reminded of this. ginning of the season and these things haven’t started to work my nerves just yet. From this end of the calendar, the coming STATISTICS CONFIRM Sweden is, indeed, exceptional- weeks of darkness and below zero temperatures still seem ly mysig. According to a recent article in Sydsvenskan, benevolentbenevolent instead instea d the [Swedish] obsession with cosiness could be the rea- ofof mocking.mocking. InIn fact, fact , son why Sweden uses mo re candles than any other coun - theythey seemseem perfectly,perfectly, try. I like candles as much as anyone else, but it wasn’t Swedishly mysiga. < until I moved here that bulging bags of IKEA tea lights became as necessary to my everyday life as light bulbs and toothpaste.

ONLY A FEW days after I read abou t the Swedish candle record, Metro published another cosy-confirming statistic, which claimed 51 per cent of all Swedes bake a t least once a month and 11 per cent of the popula tion bake every week. What could be cosier than frequent by Amy Leo

SOSMAG.SE • 55 Factory Outlet in Höganäs

PARADISEfor glass lovers ...always new offers at bargain prices!

The Factory Outlet in Höganäs sells second assortment of Orrefors Kosta Boda at 30–40% below normal retail prices. Factory Outlet HÖGANÄS

OCTOBER–JUNE: Week days 10–18, Saturdays 10–16, Sundays 11–16 JULY–AUGUST: EXTENDED OPENING HOURS Keramikgatan 3, 263 39 Höganäs (straight over the car park from Höganäs Keramik) Telephone +46 42-34 03 43, Fax +46 42-34 03 53