IN the ICELANDIC WINTER Door

TheThe Reykjavík Reykjavík Grapevine Grapevine 2 IssueIssue 3 — 32016 — 2016 In this issue: 2 EDITORIAL An Editorial Editorials. I don't like them. NEW EDITOR Please read our magazine. WANTED The Reykjavík Grapevine is seeking a new Managing Editor for its print and online publications. Responsibili- DESIGNMARCH PULLOUT ties include managing the publication’s Grapevine Design Awards, Interviews with Johnathan Section Editors, editing and re-writing Barnbrook, Assemble and more.. articles, ensuring high standards and that deadlines are met. The job is open for non-graduates, although university degrees or related qualifications are preferred. Previous experience in journalism is required. Knowledge of Iceland, its geography, its culture and its politics is required. A familiarity with this publication is absolutely required. So is a superhuman grasp of the English language. Interested parties should send their CV and cover letter (no longer than JENNIFER LEWIS one A4 page each) to work@grape- An essential piece on workplace sexism in Iceland - Jón Trausti Sigurðarson vine.is no later than the 10th of March. and what you can do about it. Managing Editor (temp.)

THE HOT The Hot Button column looks at an single issue BUTTON that's had Icelanders' chins wagging recently. Tourism Safety The hot button issue that Icelanders Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir have been going on about this issue is tourism safety. It used to be somewhat funny to point out the reckless shenanigans of tourists. The laughter stopped, however, when someone once TRAVEL: WESTMAN ISLANDS again drowned at the notorious Reyn- + Two articles on safety. It's good for you.. isfjara beach. Since then, it has been pointed out that not all of these acci- dents are the result of foolhardy tourists—many places around Iceland in fact lack hazard signs and safety ropes that could help reduce the risk. It also didn’t help that that “Inspired By Ice- land” video includes someone dancing on a chunk of ice at Jökulsárlón, which is highly inadvisable. The government currently has a plan of action in the works to amend this. In the meantime, just assume that any place you visit in the Icelandic countryside is a deathtrap wait- ÁSTÞÓR MAGNÚSSON ing to embrace you in its icy maw. - PF Perrenial presidential hopeful shows new sides.

news editor: sales director: The Reykjavík Grapevine is Paul Fontaine contributing Writers: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson published 18 times a year by [email protected] Bergur Ebbi Benediktsson [email protected] Fröken ltd. Monthly from listings editor Davíð Roach Helgi Þór Harðarson November through April, and Get the FREE Grapevine Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík Gabríel Benjamin Eli Petzold [email protected] fortnightly from May til Octo- www.grapevine.is [email protected] Gabrielle Motola ber. Nothing in this magazine apps Appy Hour, Craving, [email protected] Grayson Del Faro distribution manager: may be reproduced in whole Published by Fröken ehf. travel editor: Jennifer Lewis [email protected] or in part without the written Member of the Icelandic John Rogers Mary Frances Davidson permission of the publishers. and Appening. Available Travel Industry Association [email protected] Mette Mjöberg Tegnander press releases: The Reykjavík Grapevine is [email protected] www.saf.is photo editor: Óli Dóri distributed around Reykjavík, on the App Store and the Printed by Landsprent ehf. in Art Bicnick Ragna Ó. Guðmundsdóttir submission inquiries: Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Seyðis- 25,000 copies. Rebecca Conway [email protected] fjörður, Borgarnes, Keflavík, Google Play Store. food editor: York Underwood Ísafjörður and at key locations Cover Design By: publisher: Ragnar Egilsson subscription inquiries: along road #1, and all major Björn Loki & Elsa Jónsdóttir Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson [email protected] editorial intern: +354 540 3605 tourist attractions and tourist [email protected] Hrefna B. Gylfadóttir [email protected] copy editor: information centres in the +354 540 3601 [email protected] country. Special thanks to: [email protected] Mark Asch general inquiries: Thanks to Katerina Kochkina, typeface designer, for art director: [email protected] editorial: You may not like it, but at least allowing us to use her unpublilshed typeface Samsa managing editor: Sveinbjörn Pálsson Jón Trausti Sigurðarson +354 540 3600 founders: it's not sponsored (no articles for the headline in the main feature on page 14 [email protected] [email protected] contributing Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, in the Reykjavík Grapevine are photographers: Hörður Kristbjörnsson, pay-for articles. The opinions advertising: Gunnlaugur A. Sigurðsson Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, expressed are the writers’ guest editor: +354 540 3605 Andy Battaglia Hörður Sveinsson Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, own, not the advertisers’). [email protected] Gabrielle Motola Valur Gunnarsson +354 40 3610

Say your piece, voice your THIS ISSUE'S opinion, send your letters to: [email protected] ISSUE the timeless SOUR GRAPES These days everything is just facts, facts, facts. You hop on social media and every armchair pundit is just posting statistics, research findings, and rea- soned analysis. We at the Grapevine seek to fill this void, with some much AND STUFF warmth needed reasoning from the left and from the right, those two directions that warmth we all know and love. Our pundits shall remain nameless, as they are, like all pundits, humble people, shy of the spotlight. this issue's of Iceland loveliest letter!

Dear Icelanders, I am the oldest son out of three, in a family of five. We have been living in Iceland for a year. We have gone to the southwest part of Iceland, but we would like to www.arnartr.com explore other parts of this country with even more awesome landmarks! For that, we would like your help! To accomplish this, I have, for Selling Alcohol example, proposed that we could exchange houses for one or two weeks. My parents have a flat in the north of In Private Shops Spain (Galicia) by the seaside, and my grandfather has an old (and charm- FOR AGAINST ing) country house in a small village (near Pontevedra). Imagine it’s Tuesday night. You’re Have you ever wandered through We could also enjoy exchanging planning on hosting a dinner for downtown Reykjavík on a Friday tricks, suggestions and cool locations some friends at your spacious home night? Have you seen the way we that go further than just tourist pub- in the suburbs. You’ve already behave when we can only get al- licity. That way we could both learn picked up the usual stuff you’d get cohol from any of the hundreds of from each other’s country and, if you for an average dinner with friends: bars, clubs and restaurants all over want to exchange houses, we would lobster, gourmet reindeer steaks, the city? Now imagine if we had ac- both get the better deal. fine cigars, maybe a nice Ayn Rand- cess to alcohol in any given privately If you are as interested, excited and shaped marzipan cake. But you for- owned store. as curious about Spain and its culture got to pick up some champagne! Not Don’t get me wrong. I love my as I am about Iceland, would like to to worry, you say: You can just get country, and believe my fellow Ice- share your experiences/information some from the local supermarket, or landers are a modern and sophisti- with me, or would like to look into the a mom-and-pop liquor store, right? cated people who are part of inter- offers (or make new ones) please email Dead wrong! Only the govern- national society. So I hope I don’t [email protected]. ment is allowed to sell alcohol in sound prejudiced when I say we Thanks in advance for listening to Iceland (well, unless you count bars are far too primitive and savage to me and helping me learn more about and restaurants), so if you want to be able to handle unfettered access your beautiful country, buy champagne after six, too bad. to alcohol. We would literally drink - Yzan and the Saavedra family Your guests will just have to settle all the time. Thousands of drunk for sparkling apple juice or, God for- schoolchildren, wandering the Hey Yzan, bid, bottled water. streets begging for food, which they Wow, that sounds pretty sweet! If we Last time I checked, we don’t live wouldn’t get, because everyone’s in the editorial office had any holiday in a police state. If I own a corner too drunk to work. Green cans lit- time (we don’t) or owned property (we grocery store and want to sell 40s tering every square metre of space. don’t), we’d totally take you up on that of Cobra or fluted bottles of Dom A permanent cloud of beer breath offer! Hopefully our readers are in a Perignon, it should be my consti- hanging over us year round. better position. tutionally protected right to do so. Is that the kind of Iceland you Yours, This issue is so central to basic hu- want to see? I know I don’t, and I The Grapevine man rights, it was the first issue the don’t think anyone would want to Independence Party took up in Par- raise their children in such a coun- liament the Monday after the banks try. But that’s exactly what we’ll get LOVELIEST collapsed. And with good reason. if we legalise alcohol. A failed state. LETTER: We cannot let the government The only people who could pos- FREE ruin another dinner party. We need sibly stand to benefit from legalising GRAPE- to pressure our elected representa- the private sale of alcohol are the tives to focus on the issues that re- people who make it and sell it. They VINE T! ally matter—like being able to buy a would become our overlords, rul- Check it out! Whoever sent in this bottle of Motörhead Shiraz at nine ers of a vast feudal state, where we issue's LOVELIEST LETTER gets a in the evening. peasants would be sowing and reap- free Grapevine T-shirt, featuring the regal G that adorns our cover. DON’T ing the very grains Big Alcohol uses to PANIC if your letter wasn’t found to be keep us drunk and complacent. I say, this issue's loveliest. You can still get a fight the power. Strike a blow for jus- tee for a low, low price over our website, Varma is dedicated to maintaining tice, and for the survival of the nation www.grapevine.is. Icelandic tradition in developing, itself. Block private alcohol. Give us your worst: [email protected] designing and manufacturing quality garments and accessories from the best Icelandic wool and sheepskin shearling.

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The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 3 — 2016 6 Fjörulabbi Shore Laddie Figures Our "Monster of the Month" is a spin off of 'Dúldýrasafnið', "The Museum of Hidden Be- Don't Lie ings," by artist Arngrímur Sigurðsson. Arngrímur delved into Iceland´s sprawling mythological history, taking creature encounters from across the centuries and bringing them to life through painting in an act of creative cryp- tozoology. The book is available to buy at bookstores, or

Inhabitants in the Westfjords often catch sight of an animal emerging from the sea and onto the shore. Some believe it to be a sea otter, but the locals refer to it, as previously mentioned, as a shore laddie. They 35% say that its size and shape resembles that The percentage of of sheep. The shore laddie is most often Icelanders who admit seen on land during the breeding season that they text while of the ewes, allegedly to serve as their ram. driving It is said that when ewes frequent shores where a short laddie has been spotted, un- usully many deformed lambs, resembling the shore laddie in appearance, are subse- quently born. Many accounts support this, including this one: One early winter evening in Bjarnar- höfn by Breidafjordur, six men went out to see whether missing sheep had returned to the farm. They observed something mov- 98% The percentage ing by the shed and rushed to grap hold of Icelanders who of the sheep and take it inside. When they believe that texting came closer they realised that this was no while driving is sheep. They formed a circle around the dangerous and creature which then took off towards the wrong. sea, pursued by the men, including my narrator. It ran as quickly as a dog and es- caped into the ocean. It had a short, round head but otherwise resembled a dog rather than sheep. It had a hump on its back and jumped frequently as it ran. - Sigfús Sigfússon, Íslenzkar þjóðsögur og sagnir V, bls 96.

Svefngalsi is the kind of giddy hyper- There's no ness you get from a lack of sleep, and is constructed from “svefn” (sleep, the A Poem By Bryndís Björgvinsdóttir english word for: noun) and “galsi” (exuberance). The closest English equivalents are “punch drunk” and “slap happy”, although English Today Svefn- these do not necessarily refer to the with Melvyn Bragg same things svefngalsi does. Used in a sentence: “Hef verið á skrifstofunni í alla nótt og er nú með galsi The number of prison The other day I heard a gentleman svefngalsa.” (“I have been at the office all night and now I have svefngalsi.”) escapes in Iceland so at a movie theatre far this year say to the clerks: “A poke and some cockporn, please!” This is incorrect. TRACK OF Antimony One should say: THE ISSUE “A coke and some popcorn, please!” “Derelicte” The I repeat: number of This issue's track is by gloomy newcom- drunk." The single is off of their debut al- bottles of “The moviegoer special, please.” ers to the scene, Antimony. The mini- bum, ‘Wild Life’, which hits the streets water you need to malist bass and retro synth may have the this summer, just before they warm up buy while semblance of being jolly, but under the for Sigur Rós at the Citadel Festival in A POEM BY is curated by Grapevine’s staying in surface there are sombre depths. Singer London! Yeah, you read that right! Iceland. poetry liaison, Jón Örn Loðmfjörð Rex Beckett says the lyrics are an ode to the mundanity of the mid-twenties and Head to gpv.is/toti01 to download the the accompanying sense of displacement song for free and check out the totally when you are "young, single, broke, and sweet music video they made for it.

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www.cintamani.is | Bankastræti 7 | Austurhraun 3 | Smáralind | Kringlan The Reykjavík Grapevine HumorPolitics | But | Bright? in a super bleak way Issue 3 — 2016 8 your winter bubble. Never leave it. Don’t go with friends up to the sum- merhouse for the weekend. Don’t fly HOW TO to Akureyri on a whim. Don’t take a road trip to see something new or exciting. It is all just covered in snow now anyway. The same logic should apply to physical exertion. Stay In the winter, a person aiming for authentic discomfort should move as little as possible. Drive whenever you can. If you must walk, make sure Miserable it is only from bed to the fridge, to the bathroom, and back. Lock the IN THE ICELANDIC WINTER door. Draw the curtains. Turn off the lights and bunker down. Imag- WORDS: Mary Frances Davidson ine yourself a hibernating bear. A PHOTO: Art Bicnick grumpy one.

Make junk food your comfort food

What you put in your body is just as important to your unhappiness as how you move it (or rather, don’t). As quickly as you can, build up a dependence on sugar. If you are worried that candy and cakes will make you happy, don’t be. I promise the uplifting effects are temporary, and the ultimate shame, guilt, and self-loathing that come along with eating too much sugar will greatly outweigh any potential positive I am plagued by my American side your window. Notice that it is to achieve true unhappiness, you benefits. If sugar doesn’t work for optimism. Even in the dark, cold dark. And cold. And probably windy, must avoid fresh air and physical you, chips, greasy pizza, or anything Icelandic winter, my default icy, raining, snowing, or an epically exertion at all costs. So stay in, draw with the word “cheese” spelled with emotional state is a stupid- depressing combination of these. the shades and wait. The wind will a “z” is typically a good bet. happy malaise. Sometimes, I am Let the icy wind chill you to the come back. Remind yourself, it al- even borderline bubbly. I have often bone and penetrate your very soul. ways does! Always judge a imagined that my spirit animal may Remind yourself that it will be like be a chocolate Labrador. Dumb and this for another six months. Maybe situation against your cheerful. I don’t know why I am this more. Your friends are all taking highest expectations way, but I have been as long as I can vacations to Spain or Malta or some- remember. I think it is probably a place with a beach and those color- combination of the loving devoted ful drinks with umbrellas. They will Meditate on your life’s ambitions. Cultivate negativity parents that raised me, the unparal- come back with tan lines. Not you. Avoid human contact Count how many of them you have leled privilege of being born when Nope, you are stuck here. Because not been able to achieve. Rather and where I was, and a little bit just you are broke. And this darkness than forgiving yourself for your fail- Be mindful of all the small things the way I am. You know, like a “na- represents all the fun you are ever Other people are probably the big- ures and past mistakes, let yourself in life that are not going the way ture/nurture” combo. going to have. Embrace it. Choose to gest obstacle between you and your be defined by them. Alcohol is of- you want them to. Focus on them, Being happy feels fine most of the wear black clothes today. highest gloom-potential. People ten helpful at this point, as it tends while ignoring anything positive. time, but does make me infuriating tend to seek out companionship and to reinforce that you are essentially This is a craft that must be practiced to be around for people who are ful- connection as a way to stay sane and lazy and incompetent. Just like you if you are ever to achieve unhappi- ly committed to making themselves healthy. Going to a café with friends, thought. If you tend to feel like you ness. Though this is the most dif- glum. In an effort to fit in with more listening to their jokes, looking into have done fairly well in life, I sug- ficult step to master, it is the most stoic Icelanders, I have gleaned their eyes and hearing stories from gest logging onto social media. No- essential part of transforming into some useful tips over the years on their day-to-day lives will only make tice how much better everyone else an unhappy person. The Northern how to stay miserable throughout Keep it inside you feel like you have a support net- is doing than you. Beautiful people Lights are not as impressive as in the long dark winter. I hope you find work of people around you who care with perfect jobs and loads of friends the brochure. They don’t put enough them as useful as I do. about you. Totally useless on your are having a blast and kicking ass at sand on the icy sidewalks to keep On days when the weather is not quest to feel miserable. If you must life. It says so on Instagram. Must be you from slipping. This beer was cruel enough to drag your mood interact with others, make it your true. insanely expensive. You have put on down, avoid going outside. Without primary aim to crush their spirits, some weight recently, haven’t you? a doubt, Iceland will give you sev- otherwise you run the risk of be- How is your career going? Mmhm. eral days this winter that are clear, ing infected by their joy. Oh, and I thought so. Exchange any remain- crisp, and kissed with peaceful ethe- absolutely no skin contact or touch- ing feeling of gratitude for resent- Let the weather real sunlight. You may feel tempted ing. Did you know a 20-second hug ment. Spend your off time imaging to play in the powdery snow. You causes your brain to release oxyto- all the things that could go wrong. dictate your emotions may get the idea to make a snow- cin, that pesky little neurotransmit- Stay put When they do, take this as evidence man just for the hell of it, or to take ter that makes us feel all blissed-out? that you are right. When your alarm wakes you up each a walk in the still forest. Or to go to You don’t need that kind of compli- Stop and smell the roses, and no- morning after not enough sleep, the the local pool for a cosy soak in the cation messing with your journey to Give yourself about a one-kilometre tice that they are all dead. first thing you should do is look out- hot tub. Don’t. If you are ever going sorrow. radius in which to exist. This will be SHARE: gpv.is/miser

NEWS IN If there was one tourism in some way, this is some- have mixed feelings about hunting most part the streaming service has prevailing theme thing tourism industry workers whales that are not considered en- proved popular amongst Iceland- BRIEF for February, it have been making quite a bit of noise dangered, and about 50% of Iceland- ers. So popular, in fact, that about would have to be about. That noise has reached the ers were against whaling when last a third of Icelanders already had tourists hurting halls of Parliament, but what will polled on the matter. Anti-whaling Netflix when it officially opened themselves. In many instances, this actually be done to keep our visitors protests may still continue. Stay for Icelandic IP addresses. While was due to a lack of hazard signs safer remains to be seen. tuned! Icelanders may be fans of Netflix, or other safety measures. But in it’s hard to say if Netflix is a fan of many other instances, this was due In happier news, guess who’s not Finally, this month will go down Iceland—Icelanders only have ac- to tourists ignoring warnings from getting harpooned and butchered in Icelandic history as the month cess to about a sixth of the selection tour guides, hazard signs, even the this year? Fin whales, that’s who. Netflix finally came to Iceland. that Americans can access. Which is police, and taking risks that could Hvalur hf., Iceland’s largest whaling however, be hunting of the more There were reservations—in par- probably just a clever ploy to get us result in injury or death. As one in company, announced they would plentiful minke whale this summer, ticular from Jón Gnarr, who is now addicted to Netflix, and to always three Icelandic jobs created in the not be engaging in fin whale to be conducted by smaller compa- in charge of programming at a ma- leave us begging for more. past five years are connected to hunting this year. There will, nies. People elsewhere in the world jor media corporation—but for the by Paul Fontaine HumorPolitics | But | Bright? in a super bleak way

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Get further information at www.eldhestar.is Eldhestar, Vellir, 816 Ölfus Email: [email protected] Tel: +354 480 4800 The Reykjavík Grapevine ColumnPolitics | Seriously, | Bright? you need to read this 10 Issue 3 — 2016 Jennifer Lewis: How Working How Working In Iceland Turned Me In Iceland Turned Me Into An Angry Feminist Into An Angry Feminist They distrust me, a young foreign from, people get sued for saying shit confrontation, and what the possible If you find yourself in a situation woman. What value could I possi- like that. repercussions could be if I brought it where a woman’s voice is silenced, bly bring to a conversation among I recently attended a founding up. interrupt. Bring the conversation experts who have been in the field meeting for an Icelandic association My biggest takeaways from my back to her. If you see bullying or since before I was born? I have of women in science. The organis- time as a working woman in Iceland sexual harassment, speak. If you feel never been explicitly propositioned ers were unsure how many people are important, and I think of them you can, talk together afterwards, or assaulted at work. Men are wise would show, but they should not every time I walk into the office. and encourage her to practice as- enough (likely with the help of a have worried. As women poured serting herself. Remind her that her comprehensive series of workshops through the door, it became clear presence, voice, thoughts, and opin- on sexual harassment) to know that that the meager five rows of fold- Call it out ions are valuable. isn’t allowed. The daily in-your-face ing chairs that had been set up for sexism I encounter is subtler than that. us would not be sufficient, and we immedi- It is often wrapped in a messy tangle of were moved into an auditorium. Occupy “humour” at my expense, or at the ex- Then we filled it. With no empty ately. pense of women in general. This kind seats in sight, I estimate we were space. of institutionalised sexism is a rotten 150-200 women, who were deter- Don’t ruminate on inappropriate puzzle. Laughing at bad jokes feels mined to take two hours out of our comments in the office. Don’t let This sounds funny, but I swear it is a wrong. Speaking up makes it look busy Thursday nights to attend to them bother you for months before blast. Men I work with spread them- I have always been a feminist. I like you don’t have a sense of humour. what we all saw as an important is- you speak up. If something feels selves over any available surface. am a girl, and I am also logical, It is usually not a “big enough” insult sue. The subsequent lectures were wrong, say so in the moment. This They put their feet up on desks, sit so the concept that I should have for me to complain to the higher-ups fascinating. And disturbing. Women is easier said than done. When you with their legs spread, and some- the same opportunities in life as and demand action. But all the same working in scientific fields in Ice- are embarrassed, you blush. You get times even do this silverback go- my brothers always made sense it eats at you until you feel like your land, as with other disciplines in a lump in your throat. You may feel rilla posture on my desk—knuckles to me. I love being a lady-person, voice doesn’t matter. other places, are grossly underrep- like bursting into tears. Your voice down, leaning in—when they are and I love the women who have Male colleagues interrupt me resented in leadership roles. While will falter. You will worry that you saying something reallllly impor- made unimaginable sacrifices to constantly. Not just me. I will never roughly 60% of science undergrads are making a scene. Make a fucking tant. I have started to pick up this create a world in which I am equal forget the time my office was visited are women, the number of female scene. You are doing everyone a fa- useful habit. When I need to tell to menfolk. Moving to Iceland, by a high-ranking official from an professors in the field is more like vor, I promise. my boss something difficult, I con- the nation with the highest gen- important partner company, who, 26%. The gender ratio in science sciously put my hands on my head, der equality on earth according after being interrupted by one of my and engineering is abysmal. At one lean back, and let my legs flop, tak- to the World Economic Forum, male coworkers repeatedly, leaned point, a presenter asked us to think If it isn’t ing up as much space as I can. It feels has taught me a lot about what a over to me and whispered, “Good of the reason why we were there. It ridiculous, but it really works. You culture of equality means in prac- God! I can’t get a word in edgewise!” occurred to me that all the women funny, don’t become dominant… like the power- tice. Once I told a coworker that I would sitting next to me likely had a collec- ful mammal you are. A difficult side effect of living in be working with him on a project tion of nasty stories similar to mine, laugh. the feminist utopia that is Iceland abroad, to which he responded, “Are bubbling under their skin. It made is that I am cursed with a new per- you coming along to get us coffee?” me angry. This is also harder than it sounds. Remem- spective. I view daily interactions Another time I walked to the cof- I remind myself that women be- You want to feel like you are one through a righteous filter. I collect fee machine in my socks (like a lot fore me have had it much worse. of the team. You are in the club, so ber your injustices wherever I find them, and of people do) and one of the old men I remind myself that the people I you can roll your eyes and snicker it is really starting to piss me off. at my work asked me if I was plan- work with are actually excellent along, right? Nope. I have found the worth. The sad truth is that through work- ning to start dancing on the table. people, who just don’t understand phrase, “Wow. That isn’t funny at ing in Iceland, I see rampant sexism And then there is the time I was giv- how much their words can sting. all” can do wonders. So can, “I hope There is strength in diversity. You on a daily basis. Since moving here, ing a colleague critical feedback and When I confronted the person who nobody ever says something like were hired because you have some- I have morphed from a Girl Power was interrupted by my colleague made a joke about me being on my that about your daughter!” thing valuable to contribute. Shout feminist (i.e.Ever a tastedbubble-pop fresh Spice scallops who straight said, “Don’t from listen the tosea? her. If She not, period, and told him it was a shitty it. Even if you have to interrupt, Girl) into "VikingSushia bitter, jaded, Adventure"militant, is justis the being right difficult. boat She tour is sofor hard you. thing to say, he was mortified. I hon- stand like a gorilla, and throw a cou- no-nonsenseSeafood angry feminist. doesn’t Grrrr! come anyto handle fresher when than it is thatthis! time of the estly believe he hadn’t even remem- Defend ple of elbows to break into the boys I work in an industry dominated month.” I was so shocked, I couldn’t bered saying it. The comment that club, do it. Otherwise, nothing is go- by men. Old-school men. When they speak. What year is it again? Did had meant so little in his life had other ing to get better. were my age, they were cowboys, I just spontaneously teleport into taken up months of mine, time spent SHARE: gpv.is/femi and they still tend to think that way. a ‘Mad Men’ episode? Where I am trying to decide if it was worth the women.

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BOOK ONLINE FAMILY AND SAVE DISCOUNT 10% www.seatours.is tel. +354 433 2254 ColumnPolitics | Seriously, | Bright? you need to read this Tax returns are due by next March 15th La fecha límite para hacer la declaración de impuestos es el día 15 de marzo Срок подачи налоговой декларации истекает 15 марта с.г. Ostateczny termin rozliczenia podatkowego to 15 marca

TAX RETURN 2016

Return to

Id. no. of spouse Tax commissioner use only Id. no. of the filer Family status

Municipality, December 31, 2015 Remarks Domestic injury Name and address insurance For application mark x here

Single parent

(If the filer is a single parent 1 General information mark x for verification).

1.1 Dependant children born 1998 or later, domiciled with the filer at the end of the year 2015

The filer must check and correct the information regarding his dependant children. A mark from both spouses is required otherwise joint taxation is not granted. Id. no. of spouse or cohabitant

Mark x for application 1.2 Joint taxation of spouses and cohabitants: 528 Income of youngster

527 Id.no. of youngster

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Laugavegur 166 - 150 Reykjavík - Iceland More information on the website rsk.is The Reykjavík Grapevine InterviewPolitics || RunningBright? for President 12 Issue 3 — 2016 In Iceland, it’s commonly seen as We could do incentives, making it rude to run against an incumbent more economical to do things in an President. How has this affected environmentally friendly way. This your mission? could be done with taxes or other in- It’s almost seen as a crime to run centives. Also, we could be looking against an incumbent President, but into other energy sources. it was different in 1996. SHE was stepping down and there were five A lot of your ideas line up with the of us running. I was too centrist. ideas of the Pirate Party… There was [current President] Ólafur The Pirate Party is saying many of Ragnar, a man of the left, and Pétur the things I said in 1996 and in my Kr. Hafstein, a conservative candi- book. We are both talking about di- date. People kept coming to my of- rect democracy. I think finally that fice and telling me they had to vote people are realising that more direct for Olafur Ragnar to make sure the democracy is a good thing, not a bad conservative candidate didn’t win. thing. If you can trust the nation to select their representatives, you can Since your initial run, you’ve been trust the nation to know what to do running almost consistently and with the major issues. consecutively. Why do you want The problem is: if it’s only left to be President? to members of parties, a member of It’s not about me being President. parliament will lose his indepen- Well, at least not as much as I want dence to stay in line with his party. A the nation to use the Presidency as party can push agendas, sometimes an advocate for peace around the hidden agendas, that might not be in world. In 1996, at the same time I the interest of the general public. was running for President, I also put forth an idea to start a Peace If the general public is making University—studying new ways to decisions on major issues, doesn’t structure democracy. I pointed out that give the media significantly that Iceland is a small society. It’s an more power? ideal breeding ground for new ideas You can form public opinion with and a great place to test them on a the media. We need to be very small scale. We could test direct de- strict and have declared legislation mocracy here fairly easily. around media. Every media should I have also given the idea that our have to put aside a certain amount of bank machines, our ATMs, could air time for each candidate. be used as voting machines. Every For twenty years I’ve been up world. Our opening meeting was in so often you could vote on major is- against this. In 1996, Ólafur had the Háskólabíó. One of the founders was sues in a place that has security and largest independent media organi- Ástþór Magnússon in Interview by YORK UNDERWOOD the former Prime Minister of Ice- anonymity. It’s an idea that I think zation supporting him. The manag- land. There were many people of the would work. ing director of that media company United Nations. The aim of this or- But basically, I want the Presiden- was campaign director for Ólafur. In ganization is to come with new ideas cy to be an advocate for peace and for a way, this is why in Iceland we have in world politics. the environment. a banana repub- The All-Seeing I wrote a book called ‘Virkjum If we are going to lic. Bessastaði’. The main idea was that have a home on “I think this We’ve had edi- the President of Iceland would be- this planet, there story is as im- torials in Ice- Eyes Of Ástþór come an ambassador for peace— are two issues: land criticising spreading a new idealism based we have to live the presidential on Iceland’s history of the Alþingi in peace and we portant for the election in Rus- and the meeting that took place at need to take care people of earth sia—because Magnússon Thingvellir in the year 1000. Þorgeir of the environ- the candidates Ljósvetningagoði averted a civil war ment. We need to to hear as the didn’t have in Iceland there, dealing with a clash change politics in access to the Iceland’s original pirate is between Ásatrú and Christianity, a way to enhance story of Christ” media! It was by stating that people should be al- this. like throwing running for President, again lowed to practice other religions, stones in a glass house. That is ex- quietly. He came up with a compro- How can the President advocate actly what was happening to me. ILLUSTRATION by ARNA BETH mise that the people accepted and for peace? What does that mean From a media standpoint, espe- avoided a civil war. This is the story other than an empty gesture? cially in the visual culture we’re liv- that I want the Icelandic President With the way we are going on in the ing in, you seem like an easy target What should the president of a coun- itself. Can the champion of the people to tell the world. I think this story Middle East, we are feeding a snake for internet memes and jokes. try be? Ástþór Magnússon is a peace become the people’s champion? is as important for the people of earth in the sand which will eventually activist, a politician, a businessman, I called Ástþór and told him my to hear as the story of Christ. We have rise up against us. If you look at ISIS, You seem to be characterized as and an author. But above all these ignorance of history and my enthu- to have tolerance for all religions but that is a snake rising up against us. eccentric because you always things, he’s an idealist. He’s run for siasm for hearing what he had to say. have to avoid them clashing. God is We have been spilling the blood of have your eyes bulging wide open President of Iceland three times previ- like a mountain. It just depends where innocent people in the Middle East in a comical way. ously, starting in 1996. He hasn’t won yet. How did this start? How did you you are looking at the mountain. You and for what? Profits of oil or what- Well, of course I have my eyes wide The Eurocard, Iceland’s first begin this nearly two-decade will see different facades. ever. This is not the way we need to open. I am the only one who can see credit card, was his gift (or curse) to quest for the Presidency? I said in 1996, “I will sponsor run this planet. things clearly. the Icelandic people, but he wants you In 1994, I founded the Peace 2000 anyone who will spread this mes- Incumbent President Ólafur Ragnar to give back. Not only by voting for Institute in Reykjavík. My co- sage, but if nobody picks it up, I will How can we be doing better for Grímsson is stepping down after a record him, but also by believing in yourself founders were around 1,000 people run myself.” the environment? What is the five terms. Elections will be held on June 25. as a nation that can decide things for from 100 organizations around the President supposed to do? SHARE: gpv.is/astthor

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@justinbatchelor InterviewPolitics || RunningBright? for President

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You can choose from various tours and book online at www.intotheglacier.is Tel: +354 578-2550 The photos in this feature are all by Reykjavík-based photographer Bragi Thor from his project 'Iceland Defence Force'. This project has been published as a book of the same name, available in bookstores in Iceland, but the images are also currently on display at the Reykjanesbær Art Museum, Duus- gata 2-8, 230 Reykjanesbær. We suggest you check out both.

mitted he learned edly emphasised that the news does not The US Army about the Ameri- herald the reformation of a permanent cans’ plans from NATO base in Iceland, downplaying the news. The abrupt concerns as being politically motivated surprise of the announce- and originating almost entirely from ment has contributed to the left-wing establishment in Iceland. suspicions that the US For the time being, we only have the Is Returning military has other plans word of the US military and our elected in store. But there are also officials when it comes to the future of the somewhat cryptic statements of an the base. As tensions between Russia unnamed US Navy official, who told and NATO increase, Iceland’s strategic Stars and Stripes that, in their words, position may have a greater part to play the Navy “could eventually create a in the conflict. What the future holds To Iceland permanent patrol mission at the base for Iceland’s part in NATO is, as always, By PAUL FONTAINE vated and expanded to accommodate […] which would likely resemble the Na- murky at best. It is, however, somewhat a P-8 Poseidon, the successor to the vy’s maritime patrol force at its air base certain that Icelandic politicians may Early in February, news reached Ice- sub-hunting P-3 Orion aircraft once in Sigonella, Sicily, where squadrons ro- take the backlash to heart, and handle landers that American troops were stationed at the base. Some additional tate out every six months.” the flow of information better, if they coming back to Iceland after a ten-year US military personnel will also arrive. The official did not specify to what hope to reassure the general public that absence. While the truth of the matter is Their specific mission will be to con- extent the Keflavík base could “re- there truly is nothing to hide. not as dramatic, we did not learn about duct patrols of the North Atlantic in semble” the one in Sigonella, but the Thanks to Katerina this from our Prime Minister, or any search of Russian submarines, which Sigonella base is home to thousands of SHARE: gpv.is/army Kochkina, type- other government official, for that mat- have reportedly increased their pres- soldiers, their families, and other per- face designer, for ter—we learned it from Icelandic trans- ence in the region. sonnel. allowing us to use lations of an article in Stars & Stripes, This does not sound particularly In the wake of all this, Minister of her unpublilshed the media wing of the US military. ominous, but the lack of communica- Foreign Affairs Gunnar Bragi Sveins- typeface Samsa Here is what we know: a hangar tion and discussion did not kick things son has been engaging in damage con- for the headline in at the location previously used as the off well. Even Prime Minister Sigmun- trol, both in the Icelandic media and the main feature NATO base in Keflavík will be reno- dur Davíð Gunnlaugsson himself ad- with the foreign press. He has repeat- FRI

Witnessing The End Of An Era Neville Young worked on the Keflavík air base until its 2006 closure It's Raining Men But they seemed to get over it quite fast. By JOHN ROGERS Most of the buildings on the base are used for other things now. There were a Why The US Invading Even modest deployments of the vast tough few years, but it wasn’t as bad as peo- US military leave a large footprint. In a ple thought it was going to be. I think about country the size of Iceland, and a town 65% of the people who worked on the base Iceland Will Be Better the size of Keflavík, the economic and were actually from Hafnarfjörður, Reyk- cultural impact of their presence is still javík and Kópavogur, so it didn’t really evident today, ten years after they with- hit this community as badly as everyone This Time drew. Local residents built their lives thought. But obviously it had some reper- and careers around working in the US cussions, with them all leaving. By YORK UNDERWOOD military installation, and when the base basically met or slept with everyone." was decommissioned, the effects on the Have you heard about the US com- In 1940, the British invaded Iceland, in We finally have a successful market- community were difficult. ing back? an operation called "Operation Fork." ing ploy for the unmarketable Keflavík Neville Young came to Iceland in 1971, I heard about it through the news media, “They don’t The British, followed by the Americans area. For too long, Keflavík has been the and worked on the base from the mid 80s but they haven’t really taken much notice have the and Canadians, were an exotic import to butt of jokes and the bane of the judicial until its closure in 2006. We asked him of it. I had a conversation with someone I facilities Iceland. They wore uniforms, showered, system. It will no longer be a place peo- a few questions about his career on the know who still works in the military, and listened to jazz and were overly friendly ple are embarrassed to come from, but a base. he said they’d probably just have relief to return in and courteous—intriguing young Ice- place people are excited to go to. Kefla- squads up here, like they have been do- a big way, landic women. This was known as "The vík should become Iceland's Gay Club, When did you move to Keflavík? ing. They send squads up here for about now. All the Situation." Women were ostracized for "The Gay Situation." I moved to Keflavík in 1971 and didn’t month just to practice, and they think apartments hanging out with "the boys." Actually, Kiki (Reykjavík's Gay Club) is great, know much about the base, but it was they might do it that way instead of mov- on the base ostracized isn't a strong enough word… probably one of the best clubs in Reykja- a big thing around here. A lot of locals ing back in. Just having relief squads have been persecuted, women were persecuted. vík, but it's too far from the base. Iceland were working on the base. The Iceland- from different NATO countries. rented out Luckily, there have been big changes likes to be a leader in the world (per cap- ers would pick up the American televi- to university since then! Iceland rates highest in the ita). This could be a town of mostly gay sion station, so the people who lived in Could you imagine the US returning world for gender equality (by no means bars. Right next to a military base! Ice- the town liked it for that. They’d also in similar numbers to the 80s and students an indication of being great, simply land could become the dream station for have American music groups coming 90s deployment? and other less bad). Also, Icelanders, some would gay military men. Cute, crew-cut men in onto the base to play in the clubs. The There’d be no way. They don’t have the people. argue, are bit more refined and dress tank tops and uniforms heading off-base Icelanders could only get onto the base if facilities, now. All the apartments on the There’s a fancier than their American counter- for a wild night in Keflavík. Think about somebody invited you. base have been rented out to university college parts. Hell, Iceland is better at creating it, developers. You have a real opportu- students and other people. A lot of the there.” American-sounding sanitised pop music nity here. What was your job on the base? other buildings have been sold off or (looking at you Of Monsters and Men). I realize this is one-sided and ex- "I was a fire inspector on the base for rented out—there’s a college up there. But the biggest change, the most impor- cludes the various other genders and twenty years, working for the Keflvavík The gymnasium and all that, they’re all tant change, is that the American mili- orientations, but this is America we are fire department that was situated on the being used now. I don’t know how they tary repealed Bill Clinton's ridiculous talking about. We need to ease them in. base. We had about 120 people working for would do that. They’d have to make some "Don't Ask, Don't Tell" policy and finally Of course, these bars are for everyone. us: firemen, snow removal, and also the kind of agreement to use the facilities gave homosexuals the right to die for We are all human, after all. The Ameri- arresting gear—that’s to slow down F15s that they left behind. There are two han- America's various military interventions can military still openly bars transgen- if their brakes fail, they drop a hook onto a gars left—hangar 831, that the helicopter around the world while being open about der people from joining. America is no cable to stop them, like they do on aircraft guys have been using, then there’s 885. "After a their identity! *Slow Clap* longer exotic and refined. It has fallen carriers. We handled the cargo as well. That’s the biggest hangar—it’s enor- Why is this going to be better? Well, behind. They are re-invading and we mous, you can see it from the road. That while, you've I asked comedian Jono Duffy, Iceland's need to be ready. If we don't help them How was it to be around when the one’s falling to bits. They’ve been talking basically only gay comedian from Australia, and move more bravely into the 21st century, base closed, and the US left? about demolishing it because it’s unsafe. met or he, for one, welcomes the new meat to we might have a situation on our hands. Everybody said it would be dramatic slept with the market. "We need more gay guys in when the base left, with regards to work. SHARE: gpv.is/neville everyone." Iceland," said Jono. "After a while, you've SHARE: gpv.is/rainmen The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 3 — 2016 16

Slut-Shaming And The Base As State-Sponsored In the 1940s, the most common way for A Bridge Persecution In a young man to see the world was to join the army. For young women, it was nurs- ing with soldiers. Per the legislation, po- ing. I mean this from a North American Built On “Situation”- lice were to follow up on any leads about perspective. It’s strange to look at all the children and teenagers consorting with young tourists flooding Iceland, looking soldiers and pass them onto child protec- to find themselves in these economically Good Era Iceland tion services. uncertain times in a world advertised These young girls, often only twelve as always on the brink of war, and not By Gabríel to fifteen years old, were tried by the think of my grandfather’s generation at- Intentions courts and sent out to the countryside, tempting to do the same thing. Both my even though many of them said the sol- and my grandfather’s generations were Benjamin diers had coerced them. Of the 62 girls looking for the same thing: perspective, By York that were sentenced, some fourteen were adventure, sex, excitement. My genera- Starting in 1940, Iceland’s occupation sent to an institute in Kleppjárnsreykir, tion does this while hiding behind the by Allied forces during WWII was for West Iceland, where the adolescents self-righteous pursuit of culture and a Under- the most part a peaceful one, at least were made to endure inhumane condi- desire to become worldly. My grandfa- compared to what went on in the rest tions, including solitary confinement. ther’s generation did this while hiding of Europe at the time. The period was behind the self-righteous pursuit of be- nonetheless a tumultuous one for the Straight from the source ing heroes, fighters, soldiers. At the in- wood fledgling island nation, which under- Jóhanna Knudsen, a former nurse and dividual level, we are all the same, while ries consisting of long nights. He would went some of the most radical changes the first female Icelandic police officer, economics, politics, friends and enemies never have considered himself part of an in its recorded history within the span spearheaded this effort. Jóhanna was change—as do reasons. invasion, but historically and factually of a few short years. Spurred by the sud- aggressive in her mission, circumventing My grandfather arrived in Iceland that’s exactly what he participated in. den influx of global military powers, the law to follow her agenda, and guid- in July of 1940, with the 1st Battalion of My girlfriend’s aunt met her husband Iceland’s transformation from a rural ing officials in sentencing. She was given The Cameron Highlanders Of Ottawa. Marty, an American soldier, at the base in farming and fishing society into a mod- free rein to do so, often with disastrous He was part of the Canadian “Z” Force. Keflavík. For her, it was love, but she also ern state happened almost overnight, consequences. He was to help with training and keep got to live all around the world—some- leading to mass migration to the capital. We met with filmmaker Alma Ómars- troops on the base disciplined in case of thing not easily achieved, for a young At the time there were only 120,000 dóttir, who recently made a documen- an attack by German forces. Iceland was Icelandic woman in the 1950s. Before Icelanders, a third of whom lived in the tary about Jóhanna. Currently a reporter considered a very strategic location in she met Marty, she worked as a steward- greater Reykjavík area. Yet at the peak for Iceland’s national broadcasting ser- the North Atlantic, being roughly mid- ess, hosting and entertaining the likes of of the UK’s occupation of Iceland, some vice, RÚV, Alma was introduced to her way between North America and Eu- Frank Sinatra and Bob Hope (Bob called 25,000 soldiers were stationed in the film’s subject through her master’s stud- rope. her his “little Eskimo”). She had tasted country—later replaced by 50,000 US ies in journalism, where “The Situation” Soldiers were well-dressed and lis- freedom, but the logistics of really leav- servicemen once the US assumed control was the topic of her thesis. tened to jazz music, attracting the atten- ing Iceland were not very likely. Now she of the island. After reading through countless po- tion of young women in Iceland (prob- lives part-time in Iceland and part-time For a nation that had been isolated for lice, medical and court reports from the ably men, too, but that wasn’t written in Florida. Similar to my grandfather, so long, the overabundance of so many time, Alma is convinced that Jóhanna about in those times). It was exciting to she lived on military bases throughout young, eligible and well-mannered for- had a lot of support for her actions. “She see new people and the response wasn’t Europe. eigners challenged all existing Icelan- was acting on behalf of a powerful group much different from the behaviour and It looks today like the American dic courting traditions, and many local of people,” Alma says. “We are talking sights we see on Laugavegur every week- Navy is planning to return to the former women took a fancy to these newcomers. about politicians, the Director General end nowadays: palpable lust and intrigue NATO base in Keflavík. This invasion The resulting atmosphere, which saw of Public Health, and more.” alongside revulsion and fear. Though, seems like archaic imperialism to some hundreds of Icelandic women court or When asked if soldiers who were ac- I don’t think it was as on display or ac- of us. We prefer imperialism to be cul- wed soldiers—and an untold many bear cused of coercing girls into sexual acts cessible. There was a lot more sneaking tural. If people are going to invade, they them children—is commonly referred to had been investigated, Alma says that for around back then. should be doing it in civilian clothing, as “Ástandið” (“The Situation”). the most part, they weren’t. “There were Historically that time is called “The with a camera in one hand and a to-go a few examples of reported rapes being Situation” and women who got involved cup in the other. I agree that this is prob- Treasonous trysts investigated, like one where a group of with foreign soldiers were disgustingly— ably better (although the economic ben- Predictably, this “Situation” proved a soldiers came upon a couple out in the though, sadly, not unexpectedly—ostra- efits of the NATO base are for a different great source of conflict over the course fields and held the man down as they cized. I wonder if I’m related to anyone article). of the occupation. The court of public raped the woman,” she recollects. “There here in Iceland? My grandfather was one My grandfather is dead. The first opinion firmly branded any woman that was another when a soldier abused a ten- of those strange, uncommon humans place I have lived outside of Canada is consorted with soldiers as a “Situation year-old girl, and they came down hard who enjoyed drinking and sex. Iceland. I wonder if he felt the same Girl,” not so subtly suggesting that they on him, but if the girls had put them- My grandfather’s time in Iceland end- sense of belonging here that I do. Did were at best promiscuous, or even pros- selves into a precarious situation, like go- ed in April 1941, when he was moved to the salty air excite him? Did the sul- titutes. Local newspapers published ing to a dance where there were soldiers, England and Scotland, eventually join- furous water smooth his skin? Did the op-eds suggesting that they were com- then there was no investigation.” ing the Allied Forces in Normandy in landscape become part of his psychol- mitting treason, and should be paraded Alma reveals that her motivation for June 1944. He served in the Canadian ogy? Maybe, maybe not. I’m not even through town with shaved heads. Many making the film was to raise awareness military a few more years after the war, sure what it means for a landscape to of those women would carry that shame of what really happened, and exonerate living in military bases around Europe, join with your psychology. That’s just to their grave. the people involved who have carried but he never returned to Iceland, though something people say when they come Soon enough, local authorities and the shame for so long. “It’s predominantly he never forgot it. It was the first place here. My grandfather and I might not the government introduced measures been the older generation that has attend- he’d ever been outside of Canada. Iceland have agreed on anything about Iceland, meant to counter what they saw as an ed the film,” she says, “and the result has was, like it is for many North Americans but we both would have agreed that we alarming trend. As many of the women been a lot of people’s eyes being opened.” today, an interesting anecdote, a cool sto- didn’t feel like invaders. were teenagers, the government passed ry, something exotic, a string of memo- SHARE: gpv.is/bridge Iceland To The Returning US Army Is legislation barring them from consort- SHARE: gpv.is/situ We look forward to seeing you Please book in advance at bluelagoon.is GRAPEVINE TRAVEL

The Westman Islands Are Alive (Even In The Wintertime) By REBECCA CONWAY Photos by HREFNA BJÖRG GYLFADÓTTIR

Hrefna and I stumble onto Strætó’s 53 bus at precisely 5:43 in the morning. Behind us, the Mjódd bus station looks as if it belongs in a ‘CSI’ murder scene. The bus driver breaks the morning silence with a booming exclamation: “Where the hell are you guys going?” When we tell him we’re taking the ferry from Þorlákshöfn to Heimaey (“Home Island”) to do a travel article for the Reykjavík Grapevine, he asks, genuinely curious, “They make you do this kind of stuff often?” --»

The answer is no. It was actually warm Kaffistofa Meitilsins, which tours are limited in the off-season. boat. It was also evident from my weather. us interns who came up with the miraculously opens at 7am. Despite Understandably (and due mostly to wooziness on the way over. idea of visiting Vestmannaeyjar, the the comfortable surroundings, the lack of wild puffins), tourism drops Despite these challenges, Hre- Westman of Westman Islands, during winter- four-hour wait for the ferry was still drastically during the colder months fna and I were determined to make time, and to find the least expensive a long one. Even we began to wonder on Heimaey, the only inhabitable is- it work. With growing concern over winters past way of getting there. Our research where the hell we were going. land of the Westmans. swells of summer tourists, what bet- on Strætó’s website left us with one To top that off, travellers must ter way to ration the crowds than Though many summer tourists come option: taking a bus in the wee hours Winter in the also endure a longer ferry ride in to see sites in the snowier months? to the island to see puffins, Heimaey of the morning and finding some- winter, as the boat only sails from Though activities such as wild puf- is perhaps best known as the site of a where we could wait in Þorlákshöfn, Westman world Þorlákshöfn rather than the much fin viewing and boat rides were volcanic eruption. In the early morn- the small town from which the ferry closer Landeyjahöfn. An extended off-limits, we found myriad ways ing of January 23, 1973, lava and de- leaves in the winter months. Given the lack of demand, the lack of ferry ride and stronger winds in- to keep ourselves occupied. One of bris began shooting from Eldfell. After some wandering in the easy transportation hardly shocked crease the potential for seasickness, those ways even involved explaining Though the volcano had been ac- cold and seemingly dead town, we us. Research had already told us that a fact made evident by the vomit re- to locals, and to ourselves, why the tive for a while, it was at this point decide to kill time in the cosy and many restaurants are closed and ceptacles sprinkled around our ferry island is worth visiting in cold, cold officials decided to initiate evacua-

The Reykjavík Grapevine TRAVEL 20 Issue 3 — 2016 Westman Islands

“At one point while holding him, I notice he’s strangely restless. I set him down and he promptly (and very politely) poops on the floor, clearly versed in bathroom pleasantries. Everyone in the room is suitably impressed with his manners. ”

tion. That same night, many of the the steep wall of lava, and immedi- formative (literally and figuratively) the natural disaster, it focuses on Westman wildlife island’s inhabitants were taken by ately start exploring the paths that the eruption is in Westman Islands the geologic phenomena of the most boat to the mainland of Iceland, or wind through the clumped masses. history. The museum’s bottom floor recently born Westman island, Surt- For those who want a taste of the the “northern island,” as the West- Standing on the lava field, we have contains a house that was buried in sey. Surtsey is a sort of “quickie is- wildlife beyond Surtsey, there’s also man locals like to call it. Though the a beautiful view of the city below. the eruption. Cameras mounted in land,” arising in the late twentieth the Sæheimar Aquarium and Mu- evacuation was successful, many From here, it’s especially easy to various rooms allow visitors to see century and now rapidly disinte- seum. Like Eldheimar, Sæheimar is people lost their homes during the imagine the ground beneath us slid- aspects of the room using a joystick grating. Unless the rate of erosion a must-see on the island, especially event. Following the eruption, about ing over the nearby buildings. and a video screen. Visitors are en- slows drastically, it will likely be for winter visitors. The museum 400 houses were completely cov- Later, we find out that Hótel couraged to spot household items gone by 2130. houses many aspects of Heimaey’s ered by a brand new lava field. Vestmanneyjar has redone some of such as a curling iron, a glove, and The most exciting part of the up- natural history, from an extensive The eruption is hard to ignore its rooms. The one we see uses the even an unopened wedding present, stairs exhibition involves a timeline collection of volcanic rocks to an once on the island, even from the ho- eruption as inspiration for its de- all of which are scattered and half- with a sliding dial, in which you can aquarium with fish species that live tel. Hrefna and I drop our things in sign. The lava, it seems, slid not only covered in volcanic rubble. watch Surtsey’s size, geology, plant in the waters around the island. It our rooms at Hótel Vestmanneyjar, into the city’s buildings, but into its The exhibit not only promotes life, and animal life change over even has stuffed versions of birds and immediately step out onto the aesthetic as well. interaction with the excavation pro- time. Watching the changes in land that frequent the Westman Islands. balcony. The sun hits the city side- cess, but also reinforces the eruption area and species occupation over The best—and our most-antic- ways, magnificently lighting up the Sifting through debris as something that literally swallowed time illustrates an intense and fasci- ipated—part of Sæheimar were its houses. In the distance, Eldfell and people’s material lives. It treats the nating process of geologic and eco- three resident rescued puffins. Mar- Helgafell, the island’s two volca- eruption as a tragedy, and demon- logic aging: Surtsey as an island very grét, a curator at the museum, tells noes, loom, beautiful but menacing. The relatively new, fascinatingly strates the event’s grave impact. much stuck in time. us about each puffin and how he or Right down the street is the new high-tech Eldheimar Museum was The upstairs portion of the mu- she came to be rescued, asserting lava field. We climb a set of steps up a huge help in understanding how seum is a bit happier. Rather than that each bird has a distinct person- islenska/sia.is FLU 73263 03/15 GRÍMSEY

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on our last night, we see perhaps the best example of this determination. When a man clad in a scuba suit walks by, we immediately follow after him. As he patiently answers question after question, he continues to pull on his gear, not pausing for a second. The scuba diver’s name is Smári, and he doubles as a dry cleaning store owner and commercial diver. After I make a comment about his interesting hobby, he smiles and says “I’d rather be doing this in the Caribbean.” Still, he bravely jumps in, even nodding to the camera after doing so. Coupled with our shock and admiration, his nonchalance reveals the fascinating routines going on behind the scene. Treading paths

As we begin our journey back to the mainland, Hrefna and I grow increasingly nervous about missing our bus from Þorlákshöfn back to Reykjavík. We call Strætó, only to find out the bus will wait for all ferry passengers to exit the boat before leaving for the city. We also find out that a seemingly phantom bus, not ality. While Margrét shows us pic- that come to the museum are tagged dependable interest to foster. memories add a personal, invaluable mentioned on Strætó’s website or tures of Tóti, the museum’s longest- and released, and information from As it turns out, a winter tour of flair to the seemingly unfathomable anywhere we can find online, leaves standing avian tenant, Tóti himself tagging is used to shed light on the the island is to focus on this aspect. event. for Þorlákshöfn from BSÍ at 10. It’s plods up to the photo frame, as if to aging and geographic patterns of We drive all over the island, and explicitly intended to transport marvel at himself. the birds. Using tagging, one puffin there is nary a puffin in sight, save The land is alive ferry passengers and costs the same Visitors during quieter hours can was even recorded as being 40 years for the puffin heads inscribed on amount as our 5:43 bus from Mjódd. even hold Tóti, as he is accustomed old, revealing that the birds live lon- the city’s signs. Instead, we get to Hrefna and I can laugh about the to and comfortable with human ger than researchers had previously focus on the site of the popular sum- Standing on the ferry’s deck as it early morning bus ride and four- handling. At one point while holding thought. mer festival Þjóðhátíð; the windi- sails away from the Westman Is- hour wait now that we’re fresh off him, I notice he’s strangely restless. est place in Europe, Stórhöfði; and lands, I think back to one point in a successful trip. The mystery bus I set him down and he promptly (and Taking the tour Heimaklettur, the oldest part of the our tour, when Alfreð tells me, “The even seems a well-deserved treasure very politely) poops on the floor, island, among other places. land is alive, and we choose to live now, something we had to go to the clearly versed in bathroom pleasant- Alfreð even shows us the house on it.” Heimaey is alive in many island to find out about. It’s the kind ries. Everyone in the room is suit- As much as we loved seeing the birds, he lived in before the eruption, and senses, but most apparently in its of thing you inevitably learn when ably impressed with his manners. our tour guide, Alfreð Alfreðsson of recalls playing in an area now cov- oscillation between eruption and you venture onto lesser-treaded Margrét tells me that when tak- Viking Tours, gives us some perspec- ered in a thick layer of lava. Though recovery, as well as its transition be- paths in the lesser-treaded seasons. ing in puffins, they ultimately aim tive on puffins and tourism in the his parents moved to the east af- tween busy summers and tranquil And we’re grateful for it. to release the birds back into the Westman Islands. He tells us many ter the eruption, Alfreð returned winters. Running through it all is v wild. The puffins that live there, tour guides hope to steer tourists to Heimaey to live with his friend a determination to carry on, an at- however, could not be released, so more towards the volcanic history Óskar and Óskar’s parents. Alfreð titude that seems to imbue both its Share this article: now they live the comfortable lives of Heimaey, as this aspect is more is eager to tell us about his experi- history and people. gpv.is/westm of minor celebrities. Other puffins unique to the island and is a more ence during the eruption, and his While walking around the docks islenska/sia.is FLU 73263 03/15 GRÍMSEY

ÍSAFJÖRÐUR ÍSAFJÖRÐUR ÞÓRSHÖFN VOPNAFJÖRÐUR Let’s fly ICELAND’S WESTFJORDS AKUREYRI ARE ONLY 40 MINUTES AWAY EGILSSTAÐIR

BOOK YOUR FLIGHT OR REYKJAVÍK DAY TOUR AT AIRICELAND.IS The Reykjavík Grapevine TRAVEL 22 Issue 3 — 2016 ter gas mileage, so I opted for that. To make a long story short, I got stuck on the track to my home, shovel- ling snow from under the Skoda. I didn't Travel Safety need to call the rescue squads because I had a shovel given to me by a local friend. The Skoda is a good car—however, with a ground clearance of 15.5 cm, it may by definition be a 4x4, but it’s basically a Driving in Iceland? sedan. This is far from suited to a winter in Grímsnes. Hertz also neglected to tell me about the button which operates Read this. the traction control system. By default, Words & Photos by GABRIELLE MOTOLA it is on; however, it needs to be switched off for driving in deep snow. I found out about it after the event. When I called Hertz to change cars I explained the situation to the manager. He told me it isn’t company policy to advise clients on rental car choices. He expressed regret about their failure to inform me of the traction control, but we arrived at no feasible solution. I found a solution at Cheap Jeep, who have a selection of older powerful Jeeps for the worst of the winter. They made an effort to inform me of precautions and advised on cars and their controls. The names of the websites road.is and vedur.is are printed at the bottom of their contracts.

SOME SOLUTIONS Presently, no “seal of approval” certifica- tion is issued to rental agencies, but that seems like a good idea. Perhaps a third party could create a rating system? All car rental agencies should issue their customers clear, concise informa- 5 STEPS TO BASIC Along with economic prosperity, the un- however, Icelandic conditions are so before travelling in Iceland by car, espe- tion detailing the essentials of driving in ROAD SAFETY IN ICELAND precedented growth of Iceland’s tourism unlike anything that most will have ex- cially during wintertime, and plan trips Iceland, such as how often and where to Here are some basic sector has brought problems tied to Ice- perienced that they often do not know accordingly. The maps on road.is are check weather and road conditions, and points to stay safe and informed when driving in land’s infrastructure. enough to know which questions to ask. constantly updated, offering informa- why they should avoid relying on Google Iceland: A case in point is Iceland’s road sys- This culture isn’t prevalent within ev- tion on which roads are open, which are Maps or GPS. SAFETY: www.safetravel. tem. Rising traffic volumes on rural ery Icelandic rental car agency, but it’s dangerous, and which are closed. Someone, perhaps IRCA, could de- is has a helpful pop-up roads, and an increasing number of mo- still something The Icelandic Road and velop an Iceland-specific GPS app us- message on the home page indicating any cur- torists unfamiliar with local conditions Coastal Administration (IRCA) and res- THE IDEAL POSITION ing information feeds from road.is and rent danger situations. or driving unsuitable vehicles, are con- cue teams are pushing to change. Speaking with Pétur, I was surprised Google Maps’ APIs, to make tourists WEATHER: For weather tributing to a rise in incidents. Tragedy Þór Þorsteinsson, Chair of the Rescue to learn that the IRCA has published a aware of dangers and road closures, re- and storm warnings in English, check en.vedur.is. has at times resulted when tourists end Squad OK (RSO), told me that “not only document, in cooperation with several routing them when necessary. Another up on closed roads because they either should [rental car agencies] help people other agencies, detailing “how different option would be to petition Google to ROADS & GPS: Use road.is for road info. You do not see, heed or understand posted choose the right vehicle, but they should it is to drive in Iceland.” While they re- incorporate road condition updates can also call their hotline, signs. More often, though, this causes a guide them on how to gather informa- quest that rental agencies place the po- in their Maps app. Such an app would 1777. Amend any GPS route accordingly. nuisance and results in Iceland’s volun- tion about road closings, weather condi- tentially life-saving document across the never be failsafe, and should not replace teer rescue squads venturing out into the tions and forecasts.” Speaking of winter steering wheel of any vehicle they rent the proposed gates, but it will nonethe- VEHICLE BASICS: Use winter spikes on tires if country to assist hapless tourists whose rentals, he said: “It is irresponsible to out, the IRCA is powerless to enforce its less promote safety conveniently and at you are an inexperienced car got stuck in a pile of snow. send tourists out into the countryside distribution, as it is an advisory precau- a comparatively low cost (app develop- winter driver. Not all rental agencies equip cars It is easy to attribute such incidents in a Yaris.” Of course, it is possible that tion, rather than a law. Pétur told me: ment costs an estimated 2-10 million with these as standard, so to tourists’ carelessness or ignorance. some tourists will insist on the cheapest “It’s very difficult to get information to ISK, depending on complexity). you may need to request them. Make sure your car However, a closer look reveals that there car, regardless of advice to the contrary. tourists by ordinary means.” Aren’t local If tourists’ own reckless ignorance has appropriate ground clearance. Know the are other factors at play, some of which I car rental agencies in an ideal position to were really to blame for the majority controls if you are driving have experienced firsthand. If we are in- GOOGLE IS NOT YOUR FRIEND do just that? of their traffic mishaps, shouldn’t Ice- a 4x4. deed serious about solving this problem, Þór told me that GPS navigation sys- landers feel obligated to offer them the EMERGENCY: The we need to look beyond tourists to what tems are also a common, easily avoid- A CASE STUDY information and resources necessary to emergency number in Iceland is 112; there is also we can do to help. able cause of tourists’ travel catastro- I emailed the long-term rental depart- inform themselves? a 112 Iceland phone app. phes. In Iceland, Google Maps does not ment of Hertz Iceland, explaining that Register your travel plan with the emergency ser- IT’S A CULTURAL THING presently offer updated road conditions, I would be living in Grímsnes over the -- vices. The app serves as a Part of the problem stems from a pre- which means suggested routes could winter, and I was told I needed a 4x4. I tracking and rescue tool in case of emergencies. dominantly “hands off” culture at car easily lead you onto a road that is dan- knew nothing of Icelandic winters in the Gabrielle is a photographer/writer living rental agencies, who often take local gerous or closed without warning. This countryside. I've lived in London for the and driving in Iceland while she works driving experience for granted even doesn’t mean such information isn’t eas- past fifteen years. We discussed two 4x4 on her book 'An Equal Difference’. Learn when doing business with inexperienced ily attainable. As the IRCA’s Pétur Mat- options. Hertz offered no information more at www.gabriellemotola.com tourists. It is true that tourists have a thíasson notes, travellers should check about the cars, other than the features I responsibility to inform themselves; their website, road.is, at least twice a day asked about. The Skoda Octavia had bet- SHARE: gpv.is/drivesafe

foreigners, for example on Safetravel NO PAYMENTS FOR EXPENSIVE RESCUE MISSIONS website. We do not have the authority By METTE MJÖBERG TEGNANDER to, nor do we want to forbid anyone to experience Icelandic nature. We believe in educating and informing people about It´s busy times for the Icelandic Associa- sonal economy before calling us.” the right behavior and suitable gear in- tion for Search and Rescue (ICE-SAR), Ólöf points out that if people in need stead.” with over 1,500 rescue missions a year. hesitate to contact the rescue organiza- The increasing numbers of missions tion, some dicey situations could develop Drivers, watch out have lead to a debate over the possibility into more critical cases. In the end, it But there is one group that might actu- of ICE-SAR charging people after their would mean that ICE-SAR would have ally have to pay for getting help from rescue, to cover the increasing costs of to send rescue teams into more danger- ICE-SAR, at least via insurance com- their operations. But ICE-SAR has clear- ous assignments. panie's drivers. “We have seen a big ex- ly stated that no one should have to pay if pansion in car-related problems,” Ólöf they are in danger. Educating before forbidding relates. “Sometimes it can be about bad The record number of tourists visit- Today, ICE-SAR consists of volunteers road conditions or cars getting stuck, but ing Iceland, combined with more and in 97 different rescue teams, located a lot of times it’s more service-related more Icelanders hiking and visiting the throughout the country. The organi- tasks like punctured wheels or running highlands, seems to be the reason for zation works closely with the police, out of gas. Since tasks like this are very ICE-SAR’s big workload. “The discus- the road administration and the Coast time-consuming for our volunteers and sion about charging people has become Guard, but they also collaborate with lo- no one really is in danger, we could actu- relevant especially after big operations cals and tourism organizations to reach ally think about establishing some kind and after saving tourists,” says ICE- out to people. of service-related payment for this.” SAR’s information officer, Ólöf S. Bal- As Ólöf explains, “the weather con- dursdóttir, continuing: “ICE-SAR have ditions on Iceland are extremely chal- ICE-SAR shares information about safe decided not to charge people. We want lenging, even for the most experienced traveling here: people to contact us if they need help. No explorers. An important part of our work www.safetravel.is one should have to think about their per- is spreading information about this to SHARE: gpv.is/sar March is Moustache March, the month dedicated to the fight against cancer in men. Free WiFi

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RECAP: Laxdæla Saga Episode Five: The Allegedly Romantic One

WORDS: Grayson Del Faro It was brought to my attention by them in size and filling them with ILLUSTRATION: Inga María Brynjarsdóttir walking through Krónan and seeing candy, as well as with a smart prov- an Easter egg on the shelf that the hol- erb that everyone now shares on so- iday is rapidly approaching. At first, I cial media. The amount of sugar the If you ask the average native English speaker which of Shake- manly man he is, Kjartan takes this didn’t understand why on earth Eas- kids get is also absolutely over the speare’s plays is their favorite, most will probably say ‘Romeo news with a stoic silence upon his ter eggs were being sold in February. top: an active eight-year-old needs & Juliet’ just because it’s the only one they pretended to read return. It’s not like men even have Christmas, Sprengidagur and Bol- about 1,500 calories per day, yet in a feelings. ludagur were just a week ago, weren’t size six Easter egg (which is not the when they were fifteen years old. I find that Laxdæla is the they? I guess our calendar is littered biggest) there are some 3,300! Yet lucky Saga that the average Icelander pretended to read. Shit always happens with festivals dedicated to excessive for kids, the size you get is a mark of For all the fraudulent claims, however, some Icelanders even eating (not that I’m complaining). social status! remember details of the Saga because they actually liked it. He ends up marrying some rando It was at that moment that I re- Come to think of it, isn’t the Everyone likes love. named Hrefna. At a feast, Hrefna’s alised I wasn’t even the slightest bit world running out of chocolate? wedding headdress goes missing excited for Easter, which made me a Why do we feed tiny little rug rats So let’s get to the love. I’m sorry to dur and he hits her. She deservedly and Kjartan accuses Bolli’s people of bit sad because it means I’m finally a this glorious brown substance when tell that getting to the love means whips out that prenup, dumping his being thieves. So, naturally, he rides grown-up, which is in no way excit- they just end up rubbing some of it on skipping the first 30 chapters of the abusive ass, moving back in with her to their house and barricades them ing. I remember when Easter was a their faces and throwing the rest out? Saga, but that’s okay. You only miss dad, and taking half of Þórvaldur’s inside, forcing them to literally shit magical time: the sun was shining, In the best-case scenario, the parents out on the King of Ireland and his shit with her. You go, girl! all over their own home. In revenge, school was out and on the day you’d shamefully try eating the remains daughter Melkorka, the Princess-of- Guðrún convinces her brothers to wake up to search for your massive when their children aren’t looking. Ireland-turned-sex-slave-turned- go and help kill Kjartan, but it’s Bolli (and hidden) Easter egg. Will I buy an Easter egg for my- farm-patroness. Her son Olaf is the Morals of who decapitates his best bro in the Did I mention they were huge? self? Of course, but only in order to father of Kjartan, our main squeeze. end. Iceland takes the Easter egg concept celebrate the resurrection of our one Now we’re caught up. the story: When he tells Guðrún, she says to a whole other level, increasing true saviour, Jesus Christ. Kjartan is basically Mr. Iceland, 1. Don’t 3. If you are something like, “Well, today I’ve and his foster-brother Bolli is like piss off somehow spun a fuckload of yarn, and you’ve the Mr. Iceland runner-up. Then wizards. unable to killed the shit out of the greatest WORDS OF there is Miss Iceland. Her name, like avoid loving warrior in all of Iceland. Go us! At those of several other Saga char- 2. Never love least Hrefna won’t be LOLing her- INTEREST anyone. someone, acters and about half the women speak the self to sleep tonight, amirite?!” He’s in Iceland in the last hundred years, fuck up. like, “Ur so rite.” But of course he’s is of course Guðrún. Why not name eventually slaughtered in revenge your child after the legendary Guðrún by a bunch of dudes, one of whom Gjúkadóttir, who feeds her own chil- Then she goes all homewrecker has the balls to then wipe his bloody dren to her evil second husband, and on Þórður, convincing him to ditch spear on Guðrún’s shawl. the Guðrún of this story, who spite- his wife and marry her instead, fully has the love of her life murdered? which gets him stabbed in the arm The worst A Trip To It is a pretty name. Honestly, though, by his ex. Every neighbourhood has don’t they all just sound perfect for “that family,” right, and theirs hap- each other? Or at least perfect to fuck pens to be a bunch of bitchy wizards. Eventually, she lives through anoth- The Bakery each over in a long and tragic love Þórður confronts them and they er loveless marriage that ends in a triangle? Well, that can’t happen un- magically drown him at sea. brief visit from the ghost of her now- "Ég tók hann í bakaríið" literally land-run Vísindavefurinn website, til Guðrún has ditched her first two Just like in so many modern Ice- drowned fourth husband. Then means “I took him to the bakery.” At this phrase is a fairly recent linguis- shitty husbands. landic love stories, Guðrún next falls she becomes a nun. If you ask me, first glance, it sounds rather lovely— tic phenomenon, only dating back in love with Kjartan in a hot tub. But she doesn’t need God—she needs a treating someone to freshly baked to a dictionary of slang published in She’s a man-eeeeeater he decides to go Norway with his good therapist. In her old age, her goods—but the meaning behind the 1982. main bro to win glory or whatever son asks which husband she loved idiom isn’t quite so jovial. It’s actual- and tells her, “BRB (in three years) best and she cryptically says, “I was ly used to describe beating or domi- Every Single Word in Icelandic is Spoiler alert: some guy prophesies and we’ll get married.” But he ends worst to he whom I loved best.” nating someone, often in the context a pictographic exploration of the Ice- that she’ll have four husbands and up being held captive by the king There’s your Icelandic love story, of sports. landic language. I find an interesting they’ll all die. No shit, Nostrafuck- of Norway because Christianity. folks. Man loves woman. Man says “Að baka” means “to bake,” but compound word, then deconstruct ingdamus. We all do. Knowing this, Meanwhile, Bolli comes back and nothing. Man dies. Woman says in this case it’s slang for “to defeat.” and illustrate it as icons. The goal is to Guðrún warms up her marriage weasels Guðrún’s dad into basically nothing. Woman is sad forever. Then So, if you are taking someone to the express how Icelandic can be deadpan game with a dude named Þórval- selling her to him in marriage even woman says something. The end. bakery, you can imagine how much literal and unexpectedly poetic at the dur, but they get into a fight after though father and daughter are of an ass-whooping they are in for. same time. she makes eyes at a guy named Þór- both pretty anti-Bolli. Like the sexy, SHARE: gpv.is/recap5 According to the University of Ice- - everysinglewordinicelandic.com

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Spör ehf. 1 [email protected] · Tel: +354 587 9999 1 Tel: +354 587 9999 · [email protected] · MOUNTAINGUIDES.IS SCAN TO BOOK NOW The Reykjavík TheGrapevine Reykjavík Grapevine Issue26 3 — 2016Issue 3 — 2016

HUMANS OF REYKJAVÍK Every issue, we will interview someone living and working in Reykjavík, so as to share with you, dear reader, the trials and tribulations of daily life here in the capital. RVK Tipz ‘n’ Trix This issue’s human: Aldís Sif Bjarnadóttir, cashier, 10/11 supermarket on Barónstígur

How long have you been working here? About three years.

How many bottles of water do tourists buy here every day? Three weird tricks A tremendous amount. to ensure an elf-blessed Have you ever told them they don’t need to buy bottled water? time in Iceland Always.

What do tourists usually buy? WORDS : Eli Petzold It varies a lot. Water, Icelandic chocolate, PHOTOS: Jói Kjartans & Alisa Kalyanova liquorice as well. That’s very popular. Get yourself a Northern Lights timetable: If you've ever had one of those days where everyone is going on and on What’s the strangest thing you’ve experienced about how beautiful the Aurora were last night, but you in dealing with tourists? were fast asleep, or busy painting your nails and having a A lot of them will buy food from back home, "me night," then you should report to your nearest tourist and would rather make it themselves in their hotel rooms than go out and try the information center and ask for an up-to-date Northern local food. I don’t understand that. It’s not Lights timetable. This nifty pamphlet provides a pretty something I’d do if I were traveling abroad. reliable rundown of all the scheduled shows and the best parts of town to catch them. It can be hard to keep tabs on Who are the best tourists? the electropseudepigraphacomagnetic waves that bring Australians. They’re very polite. I mean, about this phenomenon, so it's nice that someone's done everyone’s polite, but the Australians that work for you. especially so. -PF

Spend a day at the mall: On a Saturday afternoon, you can get a really excellent taste of Icelandic culture simply by walking up and down Laugavegur, but if you want to get the LÓABRATORIUM BY real inside scoop and brush shoulders with the movers and LÓA HJÁLMTÝSDÓTTIR shakers of Reykjavík today, spend a day at one of the lovely malls that dot the outskirts and suburbs beyond 101. I hear Björk loves to play on the coin-operated Teletubby merry- go-round thing in Kringlan. Just sayin'.

SMJÖRFLUGA Order off the secret menu at Bæjarins Beztu: Chances are you've been told that you'll sound cool ordering “ein með öllu” at the country's most famous hot dog stand, but you may have been misled. Not only are you using the nom- inative “ein” where you should properly use the accusative “eina,” but you're also missing the lengthy secret menu that all Reykjavíkings know by heart. Try the lava-dog, a normal pylsa tucked in a bun lightly dusted with fermented dust from the 2010 Eyjafjallajökull eruption. Or, if you're feeling ambitious, there's always the animal-style pylsa! If you ask nicely, they might give you the full run-down on the secret menu. Go crazy, buddy! SHARE: gpv.is/tricks01

ArtisAn BAkery & Coffee House Open everyday 6.30 - 21.00

Laugavegur 36 · 101 reykjavik ENNEMM / SÍA / NM70703 / SÍA / ENNEMM

Spectacular Whale Exhibition

Walk Amongst the Giants “Wonderful one of a kind museum!” Come and see full-scale models of the 23 whale species that have been found off Iceland’s Loved this museum with its life-sized models of 23 different species of whales! Interesting and coastal waters. Walk amongst life-size models, check out the interactive media and explore informative exhibits, well worth a visit! The staff was these majestic creatures in our family-friendly exhibition. friendly and helpful, and we loved the gift shop, too.

WE ARE HERE REYKJAVÍK HARBOUR

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WELCOME TO OUR CAFÉ | GET A SOUVENIR IN OUR GIFT SHOP | BOOK A WHALE WATCHING TOUR

BACKTHINKS

Picking The Right Horse For The Race

Icelanders will elect a new president at the end of June. There are less than four months to go. As of now not a single advertisement has been put up. There have been no de- Bergur Ebbi bates and few statements of intent, either. There are no “establishment candidates” yet.

Traditionally the President of Iceland has been independent from the sphere of party politics, but it has inevitably been a person with a solid base in a rooted tradition like academia, the civil service or similar. In that sense, the candidates we have seen so far are not part of the establishment.

Nontraditional candidates might sound like a good thing but perhaps people are starting to long for an inside-the-box person. We already elected a comedian mayor of Reykjavík and he served a full term. The Prime Minister of Iceland, no matter how politically divisive he might be, was not made through traditional party politics. He rose to power through an anti-establishment grassroots movement that opposed the Icesave obligation. He is not by any standards your average politician.

Maybe people just want a set of grey suits, women’s or men’s, as president. Someone who speaks good Icelandic and doesn’t embarrass us. No flair but moderately good hair. It’s hard to describe this kind of candidate. It has to be someone who is a usual suspect but not completely worn out, a soldier who has seen some combat action but never killed a civilian. In case you are an American reading this that thinks we’re talking about an actual military person: We’re not, this is just a figure of speech.

We could also save ourselves a lot of trouble by not having a human president at all. Tradi- tionally the president has to have an interest in horses. Why not skip the human part altogether and find a good-looking horse? If we pick a young stud he could easily be a five-termer. SHARE: gpv.is/backthinks TOURIST INFORMATION AND FREE BOOKING SERVICE We are proud to be the first & only downtown Tourist Information fully accredited by both the Icelandic Tourist Board and the Vakinn Quality System. Bankastræti 2 - Downtown [email protected] - www.itm.is Drop by, we speak... Tel: +354 522 4979 Summer: 08.00 - 21.00

Spör ehf. Winter: 09.00 - 19.00 THE REYKJAVIK GRAPEVINE

HappeningIssue 3 - 2016 – www.grapevine.is

BEER Is 27 years old. Will it survive?

MÚSIKTIL- RAUNIR Iceland’s annual Battle of the Bands™ is here!

ALDREI FÓR ÉG SUÐUR The little free DIY Ísafjörður festival.

Högni Egilsson Shares his thoughts on folk music as Stay updated on today's he prepares for events in Iceland with The Reykjavík Folk our new app - Appening. Available on the Festival. App Store and Photo byArt Bicnick Google Play Store The Reykjavík Grapevine 2 Issue 3 — 2016

Certificate of Excellence MUSIC ——— 2014 ——— CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE

Music Legend PICKER OF THE ISSUE RESTAURANT | BAR - HAPPY HOUR FROM 4 -8 PM Tasty Rex Beckett Icelandic tapas and Classical, opera.

drinks by Electronic, dance, the old house, techno. harbour Hip-hop, R&B.

Hardcore, metal, rock. Troubadour.

Experimental.

Acoustic, folk, jazz. Indie, pop This issue’s picker is none other than the wonderful Rex Beckett! Montreal-born, Rex has been monitoring Reykjavík’s local music and art scenes for almost seven years, writing and reviewing for the March 4 - April 7 Grapevine. Then in 2014 she crossed over and became a participant, fronting synthpop band Antimony. Rex admits she’s a bit of a sloth How to use the listings: Venues are listed alphabetically by day. Events and generally only goes to shows her friends are playing, or that are listed are all live performances, with happening at Stofan (her place of employment). “Luckily I have very troubadours and DJs specifically talented friends in the music scene,” she boasts, adding that she highlighted. For complete listings and otherwise saves her time and money for really interesting international detailed information on venues visit listings.grapevine.is. Send your listings artists that don’t often come to Iceland, “like Chris Cornell! Why is he to: [email protected]. not on the 2016 Airwaves programme? Come on, Grímur...” Art-wise, she’s drawn to shows by newcomers exhibiting for the first time, as well Friday March 4 as “exhibits that open on Saturdays and have free wine.” You can find the events our picker of the issue found to be interesting Bar 11 spread out over the music and art pages, marked with this icon. 22:00 At Break Point Bar Ananas Photo by Ryan Ruth 21:00 DJ Fredi Sirocco Boston 22:00 DJ Janus Rasmussen TABLE RESERVATIONS: +354 517 1800 — WWW.FORRETTABARINN.IS Bravó 22:00 DJ SIlja Glømmi 5 Nýlendugata 14. 101 Reykjavík Dillon March 22:00 Vertigo / Nadaclue / Volcanova Dúfnahólar 10 22:00 DJ Sunna Ben Gamla Bíó 22:00 DJ Atli Gaukurinn 22:00 Ledfoot / Lucy in Blue Harpa 18:00 Friday Series - Masters of Melody Hressó 21:00 Forsetaframbjóðendurnir Húrra 21:00 Babies / DJ Óli Dóri Loft Atmospheric & Analogue 21:00 Grapevine & Design March Jaakko Eino Kalevi / Panos from Komodo awards party: GKR / East of my Youth Stofan Loft 22:00 Jaako Eino Kalevi DJ set Bankastræti 7 (E4) | 21:00 | Admission: Free!

Saturday March 5 Finnish alt-pop wünderkind Jaakko Eino Kalevi glides into town Bar 11 this weekend for a free one-off show at Loft Hostel. Jaakko mixes 22:00 Canis languid rhythms with synth melodies in his atmospheric, hazy Bar Ananas songs—perhaps like the analogue, deep-fried acid-pop John Maus, 21:00 Vaginaboys DJ set pushed through a filter of 80s synth-pop songwriting. Support Boston 22:00 DJ Styrmir Dansson comes from performance-art-punk duo Panos from Komodo. JR

TVEIR HRAFNAR listhús, Art Gallery offers a range of artwork by contemporary Icelandic artists represented by the gallery, selected works by acclaimed artists and past Icelandic masters. Represented artists: GUÐBJÖRG LIND JÓNSDÓTTIR HALLGRÍMUR HELGASON HÚBERT NÓI JÓHANNESSON JÓN ÓSKAR ÓLI G. JÓHANNSSON STEINUNN THÓRARINSDÓTTIR

Also works by: HADDA FJÓLA REYKDAL HULDA HÁKON NÍNA TRYGGVADÓTTIR KRISTJÁN DAVÍÐSSON – among others

TVEIR HRAFNAR listhús, Art Gallery Baldursgata 12 101 Reykjavík (at the corner of Baldursgata and Nönnugata, facing Þrír Frakkar Restaurant) Phone: +354 552 8822 +354 863 6860 +354 863 6885 [email protected] www.tveirhrafnar.is Opening hours: Thu-Fri 12pm - 5pm, Sat 1pm - 4pm and by appointment +354 863 6860 The Reykjavík Grapevine MUSIC Issue 3 — 2016 3 CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE

Bravó 22:00 DJ Ísar Logi Café Rosenberg 21:00 Svavar Knútur 18 Dillon March 22:00 Ægir Þór / Mighty Bear Dúfnahólar 10 22:00 DJ Egill Spegill Gamla Bíó 22:00 DJ Atli Gaukurinn 22:00 DALÍ / Himbrimi Harpa 19:00 Icelandic Opera: Don Giovanni Hressó 21:00 Gorgoroth Húrra 21:00 Shades of Reykjavík / DJ KGB Soundsystem Loft 21:00 Jaakko Eino Kaveli / Panos WAR from Komodo Stofan This issue’s picker is none other than the wonderful Rex Beckett! 22:00 DJ Dorrit Montreal-born, Rex has been monitoring Reykjavík’s local music and art scenes for almost seven years, writing and reviewing for the IS Sunday March 6 Grapevine. Then in 2014 she crossed over and became a participant, fronting synthpop band Antimony. Rex admits she’s a bit of a sloth Bravó and generally only goes to shows her friends are playing, or that are 22:00 Vinyl Sunday: DJ Madame Melancolique V Mercilessly Going Full Throttle OVERIF YOU WANT IT ! happening at Stofan (her place of employment). “Luckily I have very Gaukurinn Húrra Grapevine: Misþyrming talented friends in the music scene,” she boasts, adding that she 21:00 Autonomous Happy Christmas from John & Yoko otherwise saves her time and money for really interesting international Hressó Húrra (and The Laundromat Cafe) artists that don’t often come to Iceland, “like Chris Cornell! Why is he 21:00 Live jazz jam session Húrra Naustin (D3) | 22:00 | Admission: 2,000 ISK not on the 2016 Airwaves programme? Come on, Grímur...” Art-wise, 21:00 Open Mic Night she’s drawn to shows by newcomers exhibiting for the first time, as well Stofan Belched straight from hell’s gut, Misþyrming leads a new as “exhibits that open on Saturdays and have free wine.” 22:00 Ambient Sunday: Tanya Pollock wave of Icelandic black metal that is dark but not inaccessible; You can find the events our picker of the issue found to be interesting philosophical but not without substance; ritualistic but not spread out over the music and art pages, marked with this icon. Monday March 7 satanic. They have taken the scene by storm, heralding a new Photo by Ryan Ruth Húrra direction that is in touch with its crude roots, yet unafraid of 21:00 Monday night jazz taking the aesthetic in a more artsy direction. They were the surprise of 2015, and we are ecstatic to get to give them the prime Tuesday March 8 slot in our newest Húrra Grapevine! show. TL;DR version: Go fucking see them already! GB Bravó Photo by Hafsteinn Viðar Ársælsson 22:00 DJ John Brnlv Café Rosenberg 21:00 Skúli Mennski Dúfnahólar 10 Gaukurinn 22:00 DJ Egill Spegill Monday March 14 20:00 Svavar Knútur & Sasha Bull Gamla Bíó KEX Hostel 21:00 Soffía Karls Café Rosenberg 20:30 KEXJazz Gaukurinn 21:00 The Icelandic Film School: 21:00 HMM:II - Kælan Mikla / Kvöl Graduation concert / Hatari / Hatari Wednesday March 9 Húrra Harpa 21:00 Monday night jazz 19:00 Icelandic Opera: Don Giovanni YES, IT IS TRUE! Bravó 22:00 DJ Styrmir Dansson Hressó Café Rosenberg 21:00 Jonni Ólafs's Rock Trio Tuesday March 15 21:00 Shockmonkey Húrra Harpa 21:00 DJ Styrmir Dansson Bravó 21:00 Múlinn Jazz Club: Kúbik Latin Stofan 22:00 Illkvitni DJ band 22:00 Nolo DJ set Café Rosenberg Húrra 21:00 Hugleikur Dagsson & Jonno Daffy Gaukurinn 20:00 Major Pink / Mosi Musik / Saturday March 12 Loft Milkhouse / Electric Elephant 21:00 Karaoke night Harpa Stofan Bar 11 Bankastræti 7 (E4) | 21:00 | Admission: Free! 20:00 The Reykjavík City Band: Il Triello 22:00 Bókaskápur Kalígarís 22:00 Bergmál (The Good, the Bad and the Ugly) Bar Ananas Húrra 21:00 DJ Eyfjörð Thursday March 10 21:00 Brött Brekka / Ofvitarnir Boston KEX Hostel 22:00 DJ Margeir Bar Ananas 20:30 KEXJazz 21:00 DJ Óli Dóri Bravó Bravó 22:00 DJ Einar Sonic 22:00 DJ Krystal Carma Café Rosenberg Wednesday March 16 Café Rosenberg 21:00 Ljótu Hálfvitarnir 19:30 Rachmaninoff & Beethoven Dillon Bravó Dúfnahólar 10 22:00 Grit Teeth album release show 22:00 DJ Ingibjörg 22:00 DJ Björnbjörn / Great Grief / ITCOM Café Rosenberg Hlemmur Square Dúfnahólar 10 21:00 Buff 22:00 DJ Karítas Dúfnahólar 10 21:00 Wesen Húrra Gaukurinn 22:00 DJ Sonur Sæll 21:00 Hits & Tits Cabaret 22:00 Óregla / Captain Syrup / The Harpa Hverfisgata 12 Roulette 20:00 The Meaning of Life- Hilmar Örn 21:00 DJ Styrmir Dansson Hressó and Valter Hugo Mae Loft 21:00 Kvika 21:00 Múlinn Jazz Club: ÞJ Quintet Mengi Húrra 21:00 Indriði Stofan 21:00 Ólöf Arnalds 20:00 Tungl & Nini Wilson 22:00 DJ Lamp Vader Stofan 22:00 Dulkápan / DJs It is magic Thursday March 17 Friday March 11 Sunday March 13 Bar Ananas Bar 11 21:00 DJ Myth 22:00 Premium Bravó Bravó Bar Ananas 22:00 Vinyl Sunday: DJ Api Pabbi 22:00 DJ Eyfjörð 21:00 DJ Pilsner 2.25% Harpa Café Rosenberg Boston 19:00 Icelandic Opera: Don Giovanni 21:00 Vor 22:00 DJ Silja Glømmi 12:30 Pearls of Icelandic song Dúfnahólar 10 Bravó Hressó 22:00 DJ Egill Spegill 22:00 DJ Óli Dóri 21:00 Live jazz jam session Gaukurinn Café Rosenberg Stofan 21:00 Funky Jazz Jam Session: Djúpir 21:00 Ljótu Hálfvitarnir 22:00 Ambient Sunday: DJ Arnór Kári Vasar Dillon Harpa 22:00 The Dirty Deal Blues Band 20:00 Film music: Jóhann Jóhanns- son The Reykjavík Grapevine 4 Issue 3 — 2016 MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE

Hlemmur Square 21:00 Ásta Fanney Húrra 21:00 Geimskip #1: Wonkers & guests 11 Hverfisgata 12 March 21:00 Terrordisco DJ Set Mengi 21:00 Vil, Maria Bay Bechmann & Julius Rothlaender Stofan 22:00 Harry Knuckles DJ Set

Friday March 18

Bar 11 22:00 Norðanpönk warm-up: Gloryride / Grafir Bar Ananas 21:00 DJ Óli Dóri Boston 22:00 DJ KGB Soundsystem Bravó 22:00 DJ Styrmir Dansson Café Rosenberg 21:00 Andrea Gylfa & Bíóbandið Dillon 22:00 Toneron Dúfnahólar 10 The Beauty In Sorrow 22:00 DJ Karítas HMM II: Kælan Mikla / Kvöl / Hatari / Necro Bros Hressó 21:00 Svarti kassinn Húrra Gaukurinn 21:00 Húrra Grapevine! Misþyrming & Tryggvagata 22 (D3) | 22:00 | Admission: 1,000 ISK guests / DJ Steindór Jónsson Stofan 22:00 DJ Lappalísa In just three years, Kælan Mikla have established themselves as the coolest nihilist punks of Iceland. Dishing out spoken-word Saturday March 19 poems that wallow in serene sorrow to the tune of a thumping bass and an electrifying synth, they are not to be missed. They Bar 11 are joined by goth synth-punks Kvöl, black metal kids NECRO 22:00 Major Pink Bar Ananas BOYS, and newcomer synth-punks Hatari. Show up, or don't, 21:00 DJ Styrmir from Dansivaniya they won't give a shit. GB Boston 22:00 DJ Rix Harpa Bravó 12:30 Pearls of Icelandic song Wednesday March 23 22:00 DJ Elvar (RVK Soundsystem) Hressó Café Rosenberg 21:00 Live jazz jam session Bar Ananas 21:00 KK og Maggi Húrra 21:00 DJ Styrmir Pietch Dillon 21:00 Babies / DJ Óli Dóri 22:00 Kingkiller Mengi Boston Dúfnahólar 10 21:00 Fengjastrútar 22:00 DJ Eyfjörð 22:00 BLKPRTY Stofan Bravó Hallgrímskirkja 22:00 Ambient Sunday: DJ Dorrit 22:00 DJ Davíð Roach 14:00 Peter and the Wolf: Mattias Wager Café Rosenberg organist and Halldóra Geirharðsdóttir 21:00 Dagur Sig Blues Band storyteller Monday March 21 Dillon Hressó 22:00 Foreign Land 21:00 Kongo Café Rosenberg Gamla Bíó Húrra 21:00 Blúsfélagið 21:00 Hera Björk 21:00 DJ Óli Dóri Húrra Harpa Hverfisgata 12 21:00 Monday night jazz 20:00 Chris Cornell 21:00 DJ Einar Sonic 21:00 Múlinn Jazz Club: Q56 Cole KEX Hostel Tuesday March 22 reborn 20:30 Hljómsveitin Óregla & Uggla Hlemmur Square Loft Bravó 21:00 Hjalti Jón 21:00 Earth hour: no electricity concert 22:00 DJ Myth Hressó Stofan Café Rosenberg 21:00 Dalton 22:00 Krystal Carma DJ Set 21:00 Hugleikur Dagsson & Jonno Húrra Daffy 21:00 Lily of the Valley / Johnny & Gaukurinn Sunday March 20 The Rest / Mosi Musik 21:00 Karaoke night KEX Hostel Húrra Bravó 20:30 Vök / Vsitor 21:00 Hildur 22:00 Vinyl Sunday: DJ Ívar Pétur KEX Hostel Hallgrímskirkja 20:30 KEXJazz Thursday March 24 17:00 Organ and poetry: Stations of the Mengi Cross – Le chemin de la Croix 21:00 Flutist Quentin Manfroy Bar Ananas 21:00 DJ Davíð Roach

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Dúfnahólar 10 22:00 DJ Young Nazareth Hallgrímskirkja 17:00 The Children’s Song Festival 2 21:00 Schola Cantorum April Harpa 19:30 Jesus Christ Superstar Hverfisgata 12 21:00 DJ Anna Brá Mengi 21:00 Cellist Sæunn Þorsteinsdóttir Stofan 22:00 Nicolas Kunysz

Friday March 25

Boston 22:00 Tom Selleck Moustache Competiotion / GODCHILLA / DJ Styrmir Dansson Bravó 22:00 DJ Steindór Jónsson Dillon 22:00 Óværa Dúfnahólar 10 22:00 DJ Sunna Ben Húrra 21:00 DJ Símon FKNHNDSM Nipples, Spice, And Everything Nice Mengi #freethenipple party with Sykur & Boogie Trouble 21:00 Umbra Stofan Húrra 22:00 DJ John Brnlv Naustin (D3) | 21:00 | Admission: Free! Saturday March 26 Last year was a big year for female empowerment, with social Bar 11 media campaigns gaining a lot of ground. One of the more 22:00 Vertigo reported movements was #freethenipple, with which women Bar Ananas 21:00 DJ Pabbi protested antiquated double standards, posting topless pictures Bravó of themselves giving the finger (and nipple) to the patriarchy. It 22:00 DJ Símon FKNHNDSM led to an open debate on breastfeeding in public, school dress Café Rosenberg codes, and other times women are told to cover up their bodies. 21:00 Stebbi Jak & Andri Ívars Dillon Celebrating the movement and how far we’ve come, Sykur 22:00 Leiksvið Fáránleikans and Boogie Trouble, two of Iceland’s most danceable bands! Dúfnahólar 10 Come over, have fun, and decide for yourself if you want to cover 22:00 DJ Egill Birgis yourself up or not. HBG Gaukurinn 21:00 PowakaSirkus Hip-hop mini Photo by Bowen Staines fest: Bróðir BIG / Gummi FT / Benedikt Már / Hettumávar Stofan / Kíló Thursday March 31 22:00 DJ Páll Banine Hressó 21:00 Stephensen & Smári Bravó Sunday April 3 Húrra 22:00 DJ Óli Dóri 21:00 FM Belfast / DJ KGB Café Rosenberg Harpa Hverfisgata 12 21:00 Spottar 19:30 Músiktilraunir Semi-finals 21:00 DJ O.D. Dúfnahólar 10 Hressó Stofan 22:00 DJ Karítas 21:00 Live Jazz jam session 22:00 Nolo DJ set Gamla Bíó Húrra 21:00 Hera Björk 21:00 Open Mic night Sunday March 27 Gaukurinn Stofan 21:00 Nykur album release concert 22:00 Ambient Sunday: DJ Bervit Boston Hlemmur Square 22:00 KGB Soundsystem 21:00 Krystal Carma DJ Set Monday April 4 Bravó Mengi 22:00 DJ Ísar Logi 21:00 James Birchall Harpa Gaukurinn Stofan 19:30 Músiktilraunir Semi-finals 00:00 80s KARAOKE Party! 22:00 Krystal Carma DJ Set Húrra Hressó 21:00 Monday night jazz 21:00 Live jazz jam session Friday April 1 Húrra 21:00 Par Ðar / Lucy in Blue Tuesday April 5 Dúfnahólar 10 / DJ KGB Soundsystem 22:00 DJ Sunna Ben Gaukurinn Gaukurinn 21:00 Karaoke night Monday March 28 22:00 Kvika Harpa Harpa 19:30 Músiktilraunir Semi-finals Gaukurinn 18:00 Friday Series - Towards the Sea 21:00 Karaoke night 20:00 Dúndurfréttir Húrra Hressó Wednesday April 6 21:00 Monday night jazz 21:00 7-9-13 Húrra Dúfnahólar 10 21:00 DJ Óli Dóri 22:00 DJ Sonur Sæll Tuesday March 29 Stofan Harpa 22:00 DJ Baldur Hjörleifsson 21:00 Múlinn Jazz Club: Of Miles and Café Rosenberg Men 21:00 Eddi Lár covers Neil Young Loft Gaukurinn Saturday April 2 21:00 Autonomous 22:00 DALÍ / Himbrimi Húrra Dúfnahólar 10 21:00 Hugleikur Dagsson 22:00 DJ Egill Spegill Thursday April 7 KEX Hostel Gamla Bíó 20:30 KEXJazz 21:00 Valdimar Guðmunds charity Dúfnahólar 10 fundraiser 22:00 DJ Egill Spegill Gaukurinn Gaukurinn Wednesday March 30 22:00 Reykjavík Deathfest: Cephalic 21:00 Funky Jazz Jam Session: Djúpir Carnage / Severed / Beneath / Vasar Bravó Logn / Hubris / Urðun Harpa 22:00 Ívar Pétur DJ Harpa 09:30 Iceland Symphony: Open Café Rosenberg 17:00 Pearls of Icelandic song Rehearsal 21:00 Gunnar Sturla & Basl 19:30 Músiktilraunir Semi-finals 19:30 Ravel and Dvorák Harpa Hressó 20:00 Elly Vilhjálms remembrence 21:00 Múlinn Jazz Club: Tribute trio 21:00 Dalton concert Húrra Húrra Hlemmur Square 21:00 Tilbury / Snorri Helgason 21:00 #freethenipple party: Sykur / 21:00 Karrie Pavish Anderson / Teitur Magnússon Boogie Trouble Stofan 22:00 DJ Api Pabbi Baaah..!

...! Moooh..!

Straumur radio show airs Words: Davíð Roach Gunnarsson & Óli Dóri Mondays on X977 at 23:00 www.straum.is STRAUMUR We take the good old traditional recipes and the best icelandic ingredients to create fun and tasty food. kef LAVIK: Let tradition surprise you!

Sunday - Wednesday: 11.30 - 18.00 / Thursday- Saturday: 11.30 - 23.30 The Voice Of A Grandagarður 2 - 101 Reykjavík - tel: +354 571 8877 - www.maturogdrykkur.is (de)Generation The find of February for us was lo- alltaf ),” which translates as “When The aforementioned Vaginaboys cal band kef LAVÍK. Although they I Feel Good (Money Always Lives),” collaboration is also on their Sound- didn’t perform at Sónar, they were is a downtempo trap banger about cloud, which you should be banging Now offering there in spirit, as a song they pro- cruising through Keflavík with your into your browser right now (sound- duced and performed on was a part girlfriend, a machine gun, and a case cloud.com/kef-lavik). This music is of the Vaginaboys show. They sound of beer. The chorus goes: “Us two al- just the right amount of weird and catering service! like a more gangsta Vaginaboys ways evaporate like water drops/ catchy—look out for kef LAVÍK in the crossed with a soft and sincere ver- We are exactly the same/garbage near future. sion of Gísli Pálmi, and make won- and gemstones,” before ending with derfully strange and detached ab- a synth drop of epic proportions. The New Tonik surdist pop music about love, money, highlight, though, is the quite liter- The Reykjavík electronic shaman drugs and sex, sung through the ally named “We Use Drugs.” It starts Tonik Ensemble, who had a tre- voice of a (de)generation: auto-tune. with keyboard chords and vocals la- mendous set at Sónar Reykjavík last They recently released the ‘Mér líður menting a love/hate relationship be- month, just remixed the song “Alma vel’ (“I Feel Good”) EP on Sound- fore the bass and some funky guitars M.” from the album ‘Where Are You cloud, and it’s a delight from start to join the mix. Then the chorus slaps Now’ by the Genoa-based electron- finish. The first track, “Ung og Sexý” you in the face with hard-hitting ica and post-rock band port-royal. (“Young and Sexy”), is an infectious drums, complex arpeggiated synth Tonik took the original bright track meditation on the emptiness of exis- lines and the words “When YOU and made it into a dark, mid-tempo Open: tence that has one of the bleakest open- look at me that WAY/I feel SOME- techno masterpiece. ings we’ve heard in a while: “We take THING. But it doesn’t change that I The song was released on ‘You Mondays-Saturdays 11:30-22:30 a loan before the weekend to afford hate you/WE USE DRUGS!/exactly Ware Nowhere’, the remix companion Sundays 16:00-22:00 our drugs/She hates me but likes my to forget that fact,” giving the capi- to port-royal's critically acclaimed al- friends and I really don’t mind.” talised words that extra auto-tune bum, that came out last Friday. “Þegar mér líður vel (money lifir tweak that sends them over the edge. WHALE WATCHING & PUFFIN TOURS

BREAKFAST, FROM LUNCH & DINNER WEST ICELAND OPEN 7-21 SNÆFELLSNES NATIONAL PARK TEMPLARASUND 3, 101 REYKJAVÍK, TEL: 5711822, WWW.BERGSSON.IS R A B B What Is ISTRO & Folk Music, Högni? GREAT Högni Egilsson FOODGOOD prepares to play Reykjavík DRINKS Folk Festival NICE ATMO uno is the perfect place to start a good day or end a great evening

By York Underwood Photo by Art Bicnick

The first time Snorri Helgasson and great storytellers and songwriters, How does that relate to folk music? Högni Egilsson worked together, accompanied by beautiful music Recently, there was some controversy they painted sheds for Reykjavík plucked on a guitar or some other around the group Reykjavíkurdætur Energy in the hillsides of Reykjavík. instrument. But that can’t be the easy [a 21-member female Icelandic hip- Snorri, the musician who manages definition of folk music: nice lyrics hop collective that focuses on com- The Reykjavík Folk Festival, noticed and acoustic guitars. bating the patriarchy], people were that the then-16-year-old Högni saying, “This isn’t real music.” And hadn’t been exposed to enough mu- Is there a way to define folk music? this got me thinking. Reykjavíkurdæ- sic and started lending him albums Well, let’s look at electronic music tur is delivering a message and dis- by Blur, The Beatles, The Rolling and hip-hop, which are really rel- rupting a system in a way that other Stones, and more. From there, Högni evant today. Electronic music has a progressive-minded music groups dove into jazz, indie, classical, elec- linear progression in its songs. The can’t do, or aren’t willing to do. tronic music. Music became precious rhythm picks up, the beat is dropped, Besides them having an effect on to him. Snorri and Högni will work together again when Högni, now an estab- “Reykjavíkurdætur are bringing lished musician and songwriter, performs at The Reykjavík Folk Festival on Saturday March 12 at Kex Hostel. sexuality into the institutions. We sat down with Högni to get his opinion on folk, the festival and the nature of music. That’s activism, which might be

Have you been a part of the Reykjavík Folk Festival before? more in the spirit of the folk No, this is my first time. I put together my solo show this fall and Snorri music of the 60s than someone asked if I wanted to come to the festival. I don’t know if I’m “folk” music; you’d have to get your definition strumming an acoustic guitar.” for it from someone else. I’ve always thought of folk music as music of the and there’s an ecstatic peak. It’s ex- youth culture and young women, people—at least that’s what it was in pressive. It goes on a journey and tells they are opening up sexuality. They the past. a story. Hip-hop is different. You look are bringing sexuality into the insti- There was sacred music, which at the big stars, Drake, Future, whom- tutions. That’s a progressive and very was the music that was played in ever. These songs are an installment. important mode of thinking. That’s church. Then there was secular mu- They have a series of chords in activism, which might be more in the sic, troubadours travelling town to some sort of key, but very ambiguous. spirit of the folk music of the 60s than HAPPY HOUR free Wifi town across Europe singing songs It’s a unique sound and interesting. It someone strumming an acoustic gui- about legends, heroes, or mourning seems like it could go on forever. Rap tar. If you’re going to label something EVERY DAY KITCHEN IS OPEN and love. They were storytellers. It’s music is an installation. It’s like the- folk just because it sounds like some- Weekends 11.30–24 in the 20th century that the term be- atre music with a verbal overlap. thing from 50 years ago, that doesn’t 17-19 Other days 11.30–23 came more narrow. The functionality of rap is differ- make sense. It’s about the message. ent than other genres, and though its So you’re not influenced by folk quality may be debatable, it might be The Reykjavík Folk Festival takes music directly? a better structure musically for deliv- place from March 10-12 at Kex Hostel. Oh I was, I guess. Paul Simon, Joan ering a message. SHARE: gpv.is/hogni UNO at Ingólfstorg | Tel. 561 1313 | www.uno.is Baez, Joni Mitchell, they were all 8 MUSIC WHERE FUCKING COOL MEETS FUCKING COLD ÍSAFOLD RESTAURANT

Offering fresh Icelandic cuisine in a stylish and casual atmosphere in the heart of down town Reykjavík. Go West And Don’t Come Back Aldrei fór ég suður puts Ísafjörður in focus By Eli Petzold Photos by Ari Magg & Art Bicnick

isafoldrestaurant.is Ísafjörður wants you to know that form a rare straight-up music set. tival's organisers, isn't interested Þingholtsstræti 5 - tel: 595 8535 it's awoken from wintry slumber in playing into any petty rivalry and it's celebrating with the thir- Can-do spirit and DIY approach between the capital and the rest teenth annual Aldrei fór ég suður The festival is a celebration of of the country. "Our goal is just festival. Never mind the thick layer music, but it’s also a showcase of to get people to Ísafjörður, to ex- of ice caked onto the streets, nor Ísafjörður's can-do spirit. Started perience this town, the area, and the piles of snow obscuring all as a labour of love amongst friends, the Westfjords," Kristján tells me. but the heads of the churchyard's the festival has maintained its DIY Having grown up in Hnífsdalur, a headstones: the sun has finally approach, albeit on a larger scale: small village down the road, he ex- crested above the mountains that the festival is expected to at least udes civic pride as we walk around encircle this Westfjords town, and double the local population of town. He points out the barbershop promises to continue its climb into 3,000. Despite this draw, however, where he got his childhood haircuts. sleepless summer. Time to play. admission has always been free. "They still call the younger barber The thirteenth iteration of the fes- This year, the concert breaks 'the boy,'" he says, "even though tival, taking place over Easter week- with tradition with a new venue, he's been there for forty-five years." end, will feature a wide array of mu- moving to the warehouse of a As we approach the library—for- sical acts, from songstress Emilíana shrimp processing facility, across merly the town's hospital—Hálfdán Torrini, whose words plumb the the street from a handful of houses Bjarki Hálfdánsson, another festi- lyrical depths of human experience, which constitute Iceland's old- val organiser, tells me he was born to newcomer GKR who, by rapping est extant cluster of buildings. But in what is now the coatroom. Such about breakfast and school-day the festival will extend beyond the is the small-town vibe of Ísafjörður. malaise, seems to do just the same. warehouse walls. Off-venue events The more I talk to the organisers, Other acts this year include rap such as concerts, comedy shows the more I realise that "music fes- duo Úlfur Úlfur, electro-poppers and art exhibitions will ensure tival" is a misnomer. Aldrei fór ég Sykur, and throwback outfit Ri- that there’s never a dull moment. suður is also a community gather- saeðlan. In addition, the organisers ing and a big party that brings to- recently announced that actor and I never went south gether locals and travelers, kids and songwriter Laddi, who is known Although the festival's name, which adults, musicians and spectators for assuming comedic personas means "I never went south," is a alike into a city-wide celebration. in his performances, will leave playful jab at Reykjavík, Kristján SHARE: gpv.is/afs16 his characters behind and per- Freyr Halldórsson, one of the fes- Quality - Experience - Dedication

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The annual Eyrarrós arts award cer- his speech, people have come to re- emony took place in mid-February alise that to keep small rural towns at the Freezer Hostel in Rif, Snæfell- alive, it takes more than just jobs. snes. Locals and artists mingled with In the past, that was enough, but apotek.is Austurstræti 16 101 Reykjavík [email protected] the three finalists, which had been now, people need more. Addition- winnowed down from the 40-odd ally, many of the tourists that come art organisations who answered the here aren’t interested only in the open call for entries. landscape, but in the culture of the The throng took a tour of the spa- people who choose to live in these cious theatre and art facilities that remote areas.” won the Freezer Hostel the 2015 Eyrarrós award, before gathering Something to believe in around the stage to hear the 2016 The director of the Hjalteyri announcement. After a speech from Verksmiðjan, the smartly dressed the local mayor championing the Gústav Geir Bollason, collected the value of the arts to small commu- winner’s bouquet and certificate nities, the winner was announced: with a shy smile. “Our project was Verksmiðjan in Hjalteyri, an ambi- founded by artists,” he said, after- tious artist-led project that has re- wards, in thick French-accented developed an abandoned herring English. “It was an artist’s asso- factory into a thriving arts hub in ciation that rented the factory. Our northern Iceland. programme is mostly visual arts, It fended off strong competition in a very broad sense that often in- from the new Eldheimar volcano cludes sound and music in connec- museum in the Westman Islands, tion with the art. Until now, our pro- and the Fresh Winds arts festival at gramme has been May-October—we Garður in the southwest. “All three run a residency, workshops with art of the finalists are fantastic proj- schools, and a new exhibition each ects,” said Hanna Styrmisdóttir, the month. But we want to expand into director of Reykjavík Arts Festival, the winter—that work is underway and a member of the team behind now.” the prize. “What made the Hjalteyri The Eyrarrós award’s patron is Verksmiðjan stand out is firstly that Dorrit Moussaieff, the first lady of it’s been running so successfully for Iceland, who was absent from the eight years—and it’s an unbelievably ceremony due to illness. Neverthe- ambitious project. The factory was less, winning Eyrarrós is a stamp standing empty for a long time, and of approval that’s every bit as help- they’ve given it new life—it’s made ful as the prize money. “The award this tiny village a destination in the helps us a lot,” says Gústav. “For ex- summer months. And their pro- ample, we have to renew the rental gramme itself is incredibly diverse. contract for the factory annually, It’s such an interesting thing to do in which makes it hard to plan for the a place like that.” next year. Winning Eyrarrós helps us to convince people that what we’re Remote culture doing is more than just ‘useless art.’ The Eyrarrós award aims to high- It helps them to realise our project light the invaluable contribution is worthwhile, and something to be- of creative labour to Iceland’s rural lieve in.” society. Small post-industrial vil- SHARE: gpv.is/eyrarros lages all around the coast have long been suffering a drain of citizens, especially young people. But arts- oriented initiatives can provide a much-needed point of focus to these far-flung communities. “Last year’s winner, the Freezer Hostel, is a case in point,” added Hanna. “As the mayor mentioned in 10 ART OPENING

ELDING Kópavogur Art Museum Gerðarsafn Adventure at Sea ‘Blind Date + The Collection’ Gerðarsafn owns about 4,250 works of art. This exhibit is an eclectic selection of some of these works, curated by Jón Proppé, Kristín Dagmar Jóhannesdóttir and Brynja Sveinsdóttir. There is a special opening party on March 5 at 15:00. Kópavogur Women’s Choir performs live at the same time the following day. WHALES – Opens March 5 Runs until April 10 Living Art Museum (Nýló) ‘Double Bind – Reykjavík’ DOLPHINS This group show has travelled the world since October, making its fifth and final stop in Reykjavík. It is comprised of works IN DECEMBER by nine different artists that all attempt to fail and show vulnerability in its various forms. There is a special opening party on March 5 at 15:00. Daily departures in Opens March 5 December: 13:00 Runs until April 17 Duration: 3-5 hours Museum of Design and Applied Art ‘TRIAD’ by Aníta Hirlekar, Bjarni Viðar Sigurðsson, & Helga Ragnhildur Mogensen This joint exhibit by fashion designer Aníta, ceramic artist Bjarni, and jeweler Helga offers guests the chance to see the interplay of the three disciplines in an exhibit that focuses on texture. Opens March 9 Runs until May 29 The National Museum of Iceland ‘Unionize! Icelandic confederation of Labour 1916 - 2016’ Unlikely Couples This exhibit celebrates the centennial ‘Blind Date + The Collection’ anniversary of the Icelandic Confederation of Labour (ASÍ), one of Iceland’s longest- NORTHERN standing unions that has been at the Gerðarsafn forefront of labour disputes and improving Hamraborg 4, Kópavogur | March 5 - April 10 | Admission: 500 ISK workers’ rights. Opens March 5 LIGHTS CRUISE Runs until May 22 It’s tempting to imagine artwork coming alive in the storage rooms of Nordic House Daily departures in museums where they are kept for years after having been exhibited. ‘Connecting Iceland!’ by Swedish December: 21:00 Material Makers The title of this exhibit juxtaposes the connection that people make This group of eight artists are putting Duration: 1.5-2.5 hours on a blind date with the connections that divergent art pieces form together an exhibit featuring glass, when presented together. The artworks are all from Gerðarsafn’s ceramic, textile and jewelery pieces. On extensive collection—they come from various decades, and presented March 11 there is a special artist talk with four presentations at 19:00. together give a fresh perspective on the Icelandic art scene. HBG Opens March 9 Líknesk Ill by Gabríela Friðriksdóttir Runs until March 13 Reykjavík Maritime Museum Ekkisens ‘The Willow Project’ March 4 - April 7 ‘Artmess (2009-)’ by Katrín Inga Final year students of Product Design Jónsdóttir Hjördísardóttir How to use the listings: Events are at the Iceland Academy of Arts come listed alphabetically. For complete This show has been ongoing since 2009, together to exhibit ‘The Willow Project’. The listings and detailed information and has travelled around the world, popping exhibition is part of Design March. 10% on venues visit listings.grapevine. up in New York, Warsaw, and other art Opens March 10 discount in spaces around the world. There is a special december is. Send your listings to: listings@ Runs until March 13 grapevine.is artist talk on March 9 at 20:00. Reykjavík Art Museum: Runs March 6 at 15:00, March 9 at Ásmundarsafn Opening 20:00 and March 13 at 15:00. ‘Disruption’ by Ásmundur Sveinsson Gallerí Fold & Elín Hansdóttir ASÍ Art Gallery Pétur Gautur exhibits his paintings. SKUGGA-BALDUR is a Czech-Icelandic TREASURES FROM THE Opens March 5 theater project based on the novel Skugga- Elding Adventure at Sea | Old Harbour COLLECTION Runs until March 23 Baldur by the prominent Icelandic author, 101 Reykjavík | Iceland Celebrating the centennial anniversary i8 Gallery Sjón. The theater adapiton is written by the Tel: (+354) 519 5000 of the Icelandic Confederation of Labour ‘In the Genes’ by Sofia Hultén director, Kamila Polívková and the acctress [email protected] | www.elding.is (ASÍ), this exhibit features numerous Swedish-born artist Sofia was raised in Tera Hof. pearls of nineteenth-century art, such Birmingham, England, and is known for her Runs March 4 at 20:00, 5 at as paintings by Ásgrímur Jónsson, Jón postindustrial streak. Her new exhibit at i8 is 20:00, 6 at 18:00, 7 & 8 at 20:00 Stefánsson, Kjarval, and more. a wordplay on “genes” and “jeans.” Spark Design Space Opens March 5 Opens March 17 ‘1+1+1’ by Hugdetta, Petra Lilja, & Runs until April 3 Runs until April 30 Aalto + Aalto This experimental design collaboration

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Reykjavík March 4 - April 7 Keep it in your pocket Five Weeks

The Grapevine picks the events, places and things to check out in the next five weeks. Concert Every Monday and Wednesday 23 Scrubbing Off The March Stand-up comedy in English Rust Every Monday, a group of comedians called the GoldenGang get together and perform a free comedy set in English for expats and locals alike. Then on Wednesdays there are improv nights, and a story night at the end of the month—admission to which is 1,000 ISK. Gaukurinn at 20:30 March 5

Ledfoot & Lucy In Blue Iceland’s first niche perfumery, Tim Scott McDonnell, aka Ledfoot, is a master of offering a world class selection of twelve-string gothic blues guitar. He's joined by the finest artistic perfumes and new kids on the block Lucy In Blue. Admission: cosmetics in downtown Reykjavik 2,000 ISK. Chris Cornell Gaukurinn at 22:00 Harpa, Austurbakki 2 (C4) | Admission from 7,990 Welcome to our enchanting March 12 Chris Cornell has had a very illustrious career Beauty Room where we offer a as a musician, and if the reviews for his latest range of treatements using only Grit Teeth album release show album ‘Higher Truth’ are any indication, he’s still the finest skin care products Grindcore outfit Grit Teeth have just released in the game. Forever immortalised in the annals their new album. They're joined by hardcore PC of grunge as the singer of Soundgarden, Chris wünderkinds Great Grief (formerly Icarus) and In sailed through the noughties with supergroup The Company Of Men. Audioslave, releasing no shortage of solo ma- Dillon at 22:00 terial along the way. Although Soundgarden are March 23 back together, the man who should have played Jesus in ‘Passion of the Christ’ is now touring Lily of the Valley solo with nothing but an acoustic guitar and his The smooth and delightful Lily of the Valley are angelic voice. GB putting on a special showcase night with indie- rockers Johnny and the Rest and disco pop Competition group Mosi Musik. Admission: 1,000 ISK. 25 It's 'Stache Time! Húrra at 21:00 March

March 26 Madison Perfumery Reykjavik • Aðalstræti 9 • 101 Reykjavik tel : +354 571 7800 • www.madison.is PowakaSirkus Hip-hop mini fest This gathering of both up-and-coming hip-hop artists and veterans of the scene is sure to pique the interests of those in the know. Featured on the bill are Bróðir BIG, Gummi FT, Benedikt Már, Hettumávar, and Kíló. Admission is free! Gaukurinn at 21:00

March 27

Par-Ðar & Lucy In Blue These two young bands join forces to deliver Tom Selleck Moustache Competition a psychedelic night of wonder and beauty. Boston, Laugavegur 20b (E5) Admission: 1,500 ISK. As we’re sure you’ll be painfully aware of by Húrra at 21:00 the time this event rolls around, Icelanders take their Mottumars (“Moustache March”) very April 2 seriously, competing to raise funds for testicular cancer research. Although this event is not a Reykjavík Deathfest part of the official docket, it may as well be, as Colorado-based grindcore outfit Cephalic it offers the male denizen the chance to show Carnage is joined by Icelandic bands Severed, off how close to Plato’s ideal of Tom Selleck’s Beneath, Logn, Hubris, & Urðun for a night of moustache they can be. There are prizes, of mayhem. Admission: 4,000 ISK. course, and surf sludgers Godchilla will per- Gaukurinn at 21:00 form live. GB HÓLMASLÓÐ

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Viðey ferry KLETTAGARÐAR MAPMAP FISKISLÓÐ Places We Like A Grandi

ELEGANT PREMISES 2 GRANDAGARÐUR Eating I IN THE HEART OF Maritime 1 Museum Sigurjón KLETTAGARÐAR REYKJAVIK Apótek Restaurant Art Austurstræti 16 Saga Museum BRUNCH This restaurant is cosy and stylish with Museum LUNCH AND DINNER MENU friendly staff and a South American-infused ST VESTURGARÐAR LOCAL AND FOREIGN DISHES menu. The name joyfully refers to the fact BAR that the building used to house a pharmacy ÁNANAUB in days past, and the cocktail menu reflects MÝRARGATA this, split up into painkillers, stimulants, tranquilizers and placebos. NÝLENDUGATA SÆBRAUT KLEPPSVEGUR HOLTSGATA 2 NESVEGUR The Coocoo's Nest FRAM EIÐSGRANDI RÁNARGATA Grandagarður 23 VESTURGATA GEIRSGATA SUNDABORG NestledGRANDAVEGUR in a refurbished fishing hut in C BÁRUGATA the newly flourishing area of Grandi, The Harpa BANKASTRÆTI 7A - 101 REYKJAVÍK - TEL. 562 3232 Reykjavík Coocoo’s Nest is a cosy andHRINGBRAUT airy cafe, offer- ÖLDUGATA Concert KIRKJUSANDUR KLEPPSVEGUR ing California-casual brunch, lunch, and din- Art Museum Hall A BANKASTRÆTI 7A - 101 REYKJAVÍK - TEL. 562 3232 BRÆÐRABORGARSTÍGUR ner, with an Italian twist. With large windows ÆGISGATA Main TRYGGVAGATA ÁLAGRANDI Tourist and light wood throughout, this is perfect for The Info 9 a lazy Saturday get-together or an afternoon SÓLVAL HÁVALLAGATA Central SÖLVHÓLSGATA "aperitivo" after work. If you are in that part of GARÐASTRÆTI Bank LAUGALÆKUR ÁSVALLAGATA HAFNARSTRÆTIF town, head over for a warm-up. SKÚLAGATASÆBRAUT LAGATA TÚNGATA The DALBRAUT VATNAGARÐAR E J AUSTURSTRÆTI Culture D D 3 Kryddlegin Hjörtu Austur House MEISTARAVELLIR AÐALSTRÆTI National KIRKJUSTRÆTIvöllur 1 HVERFISGATA Hverfisgata 33 BANKASTRÆTI Theatre LIND Kryddlegin Hjörtu is a cosy restaurant that A 71 ARGATA BRÚNAVEGUR Icelandic 3 SUNDLAUGAVEGUR offers plenty of healthy options, including SÓLVALLAGATA Parliament 4 SÆBRAUT a salad and soup buffet. Swing by if you’re VONARSTRÆTI PÓSTH.ST. LAUGARNESVEGUR Ta xi starting to feel guilty for all of those hot dogs KLAPPARSTÍGUR Laugardals KAPLASKJÓLSVEGUR LÆKJARGATA LAUGAVEGUR and want more wholesome and nutritious 6 HRAUNTEIGUR Swimming REYNIMELU HRINGBRAUT VATNSST. Pool food. Make sure not to miss out on their on- City BORGARTÚN K AFFI 81

location baked bread. Hall VESTURBRÚN AUSTURBRÚN Vesturbæjar VÍÐIMELUR E SUÐURGATA HRÍSATEIGUR HOFSVALLAGATA 13 Swimming INGÓLFSSTRÆTI SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR KIRKJUTEIGUR ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTI Pool GRENIMELUR R TJARNARGATA H LAUGARÁSVEGUR

VEGUR Camping site 4 Hraðlestin HAGAMELUR BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI SÓLTÚN KAMBSVEGUR GRETTISGATA H VERFISGATA 76 Lækjargata 8 SKÚLAGATA 51 HOFTEIGUR LAUFÁS HJALLAVEGUR Despite being theMELHAGI faster and more afford- ESPIMELUR 10 LOKASTÍGUR FRAKKASTÍGUR HÖFÐATÚN NÓATÚN Hlemmur REYKJAVEGUR FRÍKIRKJUVEGUR ÓÐINSGATA able cousin to one of the top restaurants in National LANGHOLTSVEGUR ÞÓRSGATA Bus Terminal MIÐTÚN the country, Austurindíafélagið, flavour is Gallery Ta xi LAUGATEIGUR VITASTÍGUR HÓLSVEGUR EFSTASUND never compromised by promptness. Their SKOTHÚSVEGUR NESHAGI F NJÁLSGATA short selection of authentic Indian cuisine is FURUMELUR BARÓNSSTÍGUR HÁTÚN cooked with the finest ingredients, the spices BERGÞÓRUGATA SNORRABRAUT SIGTÚN BIRKIMELUR C are masterfully blended and the experience is National BALDURSGATA Hallgríms wholly satisfying. library kirkja LAUGAVEGUR HÁTÚN DYNGJUVEGUR KVISTHAGI SÓLEYJARGATA BRAUTARHOLT Church FREYJUGATA 5 BRAGAGATA KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT Snaps National NJARÐARGATA CAFE BAR Þórsgata 1 museum Sundhöllin This Reykjavík dining establishment has FJÖLNISVEGUR SKIPHOLT ENGJAVEGUR RECORD STORE Swimming RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR SUNNUVEGUR quickly become a popular spot for folks with ENGJATEIGUR FORNHAGI G BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI EI Pool RÍKSGATA a fine palate and a modest budget, offering EGILSGATA Hljómskáli BARÓNSSTÍGUR ÆGISÍÐA HJARÐARHAGI a small menu drawn from local produce and HRINGBRAUTPark SKIPHOLT Zoo and HALLARMÚLI family park a carefully selected wine list. It’s also a cool University NÓATÚN B hangout for artists and musicians, and we’ve of Iceland LAUFÁSVEGUR Laugardalshöll DUNHAGI Sports hall SKIPASUND selected it as our “Best Goddamn Restaurant” every year since 2012. Make sure to get there SÆMUNDARGATA HÁTEIGSVEGUR

SNORRABRAUT early—they take reservations until 18:30, but HOLTAVEGUR EFSTASUND

after that it's a free-for-all! LANGHOLTSVEGUR GUNNARSBRAUT TÓMASARHAGI Nordic House LÁGMÚLI H ST ÁRMÚLI URLUAGATA G Culture Center FLÓKAGATA VATNSMÝRARVEGUR Drinking ENGJAVEGUR FÁLKAGATA 6 Bravó 7 Mikkeller & Friends 8 Bar Ananas 9 Húrra GAMLA HRINGBRAUT Taxi Laugavegur 22 Hverfisgata 12 Klapparstígur 38 NaustinBSÍ RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR Kjarvalsstaðir Coach National ARAGATA SUÐURLANDSBRAUT Bravó is your regular run-of-the-mill bar Mikkeller & Friends offers twenty different Bar Ananas,NJARÐARGATA named after that topping that With numerousTerminal beers on tap, the place Museum ODDAGATA ÚTHLÍÐ that serves decent drinks and doesn't try to craft beers on draft, and most of them are only decent people enjoy on their pizza (pine- is ideal to sit down for a pint in the early

be anything that it's not. The bar plays good EGGERTSGATAfrom Denmark’s Mikkeller brewery. Even on apple), is Reykjavík’s only beach bar, and it evening, see a live band step on stage STAKKAHLÍÐ music at a comfortable volumeLYNGHAGI that allows a quiet night, this comfortable place is full of is truly a breath of fresh air for the otherwise around ten or eleven, and then dance to ÁRMÚLI for conversation, and provides good seating beer enthusiasts thirsty for something a little dreary downtown scene. No sir, this is no sweet tunes by talented DJs until the wee BÓLSTAÐARHLÍÐ LANGAHLÍÐ SÍÐUMÚLI options even during late nights, when most different. dive bar, but a club, with an indoor smoking hours of the night. HÁALEITISBRAUT HRINGBRAUT MIKLABRAUT bars have removed theirSTARHAGI tables to make room lounge, stairs, a spacious bar, a tiny dance KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT ÁLFHEIMAR for a dance floor. floor, and a solid line of DJs that all aim to SKAFTAHLÍÐ make you bust a move. ÁLFTAMÝRI GOÐHEIMAR

NAUTHÓLSVEGUR Useful Numbers The Icelandic Travel Market, Bankastræti 2, Shops: Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00, Sat 10:00–16:00, SAFAMÝRI Public Transport ESKIHLÍÐ SÓLHEIMAR tel: 522 4979 Sun closed. The shopping centres Kringlan and SKÓGARHLÍÐ Emergency number: 112 BÚSTAÐAVEGUR BARMAHLÍÐ The only public transport available in Reykjavík Smáralind as well as most supermarkets and Medical help: 1770 Trip, Laugavegur 54, tel: 433 8747 is the bus. Most buses run every 20–30 minutes REYKJAHLÍÐ Pharmacies tourist shops have longer opening hours. MIKLABRAUT Dental emergency: 575 0505 (the wait may be longer on weekends) and the Swimming pools: Weekdays 06:30–22:00 and MÁVAHLÍÐ Lyf og heilsa, Egilsgata 3, tel: 563 1020 price per fare is 400 ISK for adults and children. Information: 1818 weekends 09:00–17:00, although each pool STIGAHLÍÐ LJÓSHEIMAR ÞORRAGATA Multiple day passes are available for purchase Taxi: Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir: 588 5522 Lyfja, Laugavegur 16, tel: 552 4045 and Lág- varies plus or minus a few hours. at select locations and through their eponymous DRÁPUHLÍÐ BSR: 561 0000 múla 5, tel: 533 2300 Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri 09:00- GNOÐARVOGUR Reykjavapp.ík Complete route map available at: www.bus. Tax-Free Refund Coach Terminal Domestic 16:00. is. Tel: 540 2700. Buses run from 07:00–24:00 on SKEIFAN BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, Airport Post Offices BLÖNDUHLÍÐ STAKKAHLÍÐ GRÆNAHLÍÐ Iceland Refund, Aðalstræti 2, tel: 564 6400 weekdays and 10:00–24:00 on weekends. Main tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is Taxi Tourist Information terminals are: Hlemmur and Lækjartorg. Post offices are located around the city. The Domestic Airlines downtown post office is at Pósthússtræti 3–5, MIKLABRAUT Arctic Adventures, Laugavegur 11, Opening Hours FELLSMÚLI open Mon–Fri 09:00–18:00. Stamps are also FLUGVALLARVEGUR GRENSÁSVEGUR tel: 562 7000 Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, Bars and clubs: According to regulations, sold at bookstores, gas stations, tourist shops tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is bars can stay open until 01:00 on weekdays and Tourist Info Centre, Aðalstræti 2, tel: 590 1550 and some grocery stores. Kringlan Eagle Air, Hótel Loftleiðir, tel: 562 4200 04:30 on weekends. HAMRAHLÍÐ Shopping C Iceland Excursions – Grayline Iceland, Hafnarstræti 20, tel: 540 1300 Mall HÖRGSHLÍÐ EINARSNES

HÁAHLÍÐ Party Every Night • Cocktails Live Sports Coverage BÚSTAÐAVEGUR Ribs - Burgers STIGAHLÍÐ BAUGANES Hótel Loftleiðir Live Music Every Night Perlan SKILDINGANES LISTABRAUT Chicken Wings 50 different kinds of beer

OFANLEITI

AUSTURSTRAETI 8 • REYKJAVIK D KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT MENNTAVEGUR VESTURHLÍÐ

SUÐURHLÍÐ

NAUTHÓLSVEGUR

University of Reykjavík

Nauthólsvík HÓLMASLÓÐ

6 7 8 9 Venue Finder New In Town Music & Entertainment Viðey Austur Gaukurinn ferry Austurstræti 7 | D3 Tryggvagata 22 | D3 KLETTAGARÐAR FISKISLÓÐ B5 Hressó OLDEST RESTAURANT IN ICELAND PLEASE Bankastræti 5 | E4 Austurstræti 20 | D3

Grandi Open weekdays 07:30 – 18:00 Bar 11 Húrra Open weekends 09:30 – 18:00 SITUATED DON’T LOVE US ON Hverfisgata 18 | E5 Naustin | D3 BY THE OLD GRANDAGARÐUR Reykjavík Bar Ananas Kex Hostel harbour Maritime Klappastígur 28 | E5 Skúlagata 28 | E7 Museum The Reykjavík Red Bíó Paradís Kaffibarinn Sigurjón KLETTAGARÐAR Art 13 FACEBOOK! Hverfisgata 54 | E5 Bergstaðastræti 1 | E4 Saga Cross Clothing Store Museum Museum Bjarni Fel Kaffi Vínyl Skólavörðustígur 12 Austurstræti 20 | E4 Hverfisgatur 76 | E6 Bravó Kaldi Bar VESTURGARÐAR The Red Cross recently opened a new Laugavegur 22 | E5 Laugavegur 20b | E5 secondhand clothing store that’s likely LIKE US IN ÁNANAUST Boston Kiki Queer Bar MÝRARGATA worth a gander. Each garment on offer Laugavegur 28b | E5 Laugavegur 22 | E5 has its fair share of history, yet is sold on Bunk Lavabarinn NÝLENDUGATA the cheap for a good cause, making for a SOUP OF THE DAY AND COFFEE INCLUDED Laugavegur 28 | E5 Lækjargata 6 | E4 SÆBRAUT win-win situation. The store used to be in on weekdays a smaller space on Laugavegur, and the from 11:30 am Café Rósenberg Loft Hostel KLEPPSVEGUR HOLTSGATA to 3:00 pm Klapparstígur 25 | E5 Bankastræti 7 | E4 added space is an absolute godsend for

w Coocoo's Nest Paloma FRAMNESVEGUR people looking to make a bargain. One w w RÁNARGATA .t he EIÐSGRANDI la Grandagarður 23 | B2 Naustin | D3 VESTURGATA u LIFE! n man’s trash is another man’s haute couture. d SUNDABORG GEIRSGATA r o m a t c a Den Danske Kro Prikið f GRANDAVEGUR e BÁRUGATA . c

o m Ingólfsstræti 3 | E4 Bankastræti 12 | E4 Harpa Reykjavík Dillon Reykjavík Roasters HRINGBRAUT ÖLDUGATA Concert KIRKJUSANDUR KLEPPSVEGUR Art Museum Kaffivagninn Laugavegur 30 | E5 Kárastígur 1 | F5 Hall Grandagarði 10 · 101 Reykjavík BRÆÐRABORGARSTÍGUR +354 551 5932 · [email protected] ÆGISGATA Main TRYGGVAGATA Dubliner Stofan Café ÁLAGRANDI kaffivagninn.is H Tourist Naustin 1-3 | D3 Vesturgata 3 | D3 Info The SÓLVALLAGATAHÁVALLAGATA Central SÖLVHÓLSGATA I J Dúfnhólar 10 Ölsmiðjan Hafnarstræti 18 | D3 Lækjargata 10 | E3 GARÐASTRÆTI Bank LAUGALÆKUR ÁSVALLAGATA HAFNARSTRÆTI SKÚLAGATASÆBRAUT English Pub Ölstofan TÚNGATA The DALBRAUT VATNAGARÐAR Austurstræti 12 | D3 Vegamótastígur 4 | E5 AUSTURSTRÆTI Culture Austur House MEISTARAVELLIR AÐALSTRÆTI National KIRKJUSTRÆTIvöllur HVERFISGATA Museums & Galleries BANKASTRÆTI Theatre LIN DARGATA ART67 The Nordic House BRÚNAVEGUR Icelandic Laugavegur 67 | F7 Sturlugata 5 | H2 SUNDLAUGAVEGUR SÓLVALLAGATA Parliament Open 09-21 Mon–Sun 11–17 SÆBRAUT VONARSTRÆTI PÓSTH.ST. www.aurorareykjavik.is www.nordice.is LAUGARNESVEGUR Ta xi KLAPPARSTÍGUR ASÍ Art Gallery Reykjavík Art Gallery KAPLASKJÓLSVEGUR LÆKJARGATA Laugardals LAUGAVEGUR Freyjugata 41 | G6 Skúlagata 30 | E7 HRAUNTEIGUR Swimming REYNIMELUR HRINGBRAUT VATNSST. Open Tue-Sun 13-17 Tue-Sun 14–18 Pool City BORGARTÚN www.listasafnasi.is Reykjavík Art

Hall VESTURBRÚN AUSTURBRÚN Vesturbæjar VÍÐIMELUR SUÐURGATA HRÍSATEIGUR HOFSVALLAGATA B Aurora Reykjavík Museum - Swimming INGÓLFSSTRÆTI SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR KIRKJUTEIGUR ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTI Grandagarður 2 | B1 Hafnarhús TJARNARGATA LAUGARÁSVEGUR Pool GRENIMELUR Open 09-21 Tryggvagata 17 | D3 VEGUR Camping 11 Open 10-17 HAGAMELUR BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI SÓLTÚNÁsgrimur Jónsson site Thursday 10-20 KAMBSVEGUR GRETTISGATA Museum SKÚLAGATA Kjarvalsstaðir Bergstaðastræti 74 | G4 HOFTEIGUR

LAUFÁS Flókagata 24 | H8 HJALLAVEGUR MELHAGI Mon-Fri through Sep 1 ESPIMELUR Open 10-17 LOKASTÍGUR FRAKKASTÍGUR HÖFÐATÚN NÓATÚN Hlemmur REYKJAVEGUR FRÍKIRKJUVEGURNational ÓÐINSGATA ÞÓRSGATA Better Weather Win- Ásmundarsafn LANGHOLTSVEGUR Gallery Bus Terminal M Ta xi IÐTÚN dow Gallery Sigtún LAUGATEIGUR VITASTÍGUR HÓLSVEGUR EFSTASUND Laugavegur 41 | E6 SKOTHÚSVEGUR NJÁLSGATA Open 10-17 NESHAGI www.windandweather.is www.listasafnreykja- FURUMELUR BARÓNSSTÍGUR HÁTÚ 12 The Einar Jónsson vikur.is BERGÞÓRUGATA SNORRABRAUT N SIGTÚN BIRKIMELURNational BALDURSGATA Museum Reykjavík City Library Hallgríms Eiriksgata | G5 library kirkja LAUGAVEGUR HÁTÚN Tryggvagata 15 | D3 DYNGJUVEGUR KVISTHAGI SÓLEYJARGATA BRAUTARHOLT Tue–Sun 14–17 www.borgarbokasafn.is Church www.skulptur.is FREYJUGATA BRAGAGATA ReykjavíkKRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT City National NJARÐARGATA Ekkisens Museum - museum Bergstaðastræti 25b F4 Árbæjarsafn Sundhöllin Kistuhylur 4 FJÖLNISVEGUR SKIPHOLT Gallerí List ENGJAVEGUR Swimming RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR Daily tours at 13 SUNNUVEGUR Skipholt 50A | H10 ENGJATEIGUR FORNHAGI BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI EIRÍKSGATA Pool M-F 11-18, Sat 11-16 The Settlement Exhibi- Hljómskáli BARÓNSSTÍGUREGILSGATA http://www.gallerilist.is/ tion ÆGISÍÐA HJARÐARHAGI SKIPHOLT Aðalstræti 17 | D3 Zoo and HRINGBRAUTPark Hafnarborg University Open daily 9–20 HALLARMÚLI family park NÓATÚN Strandgata 34, Haf- F of Iceland LAUFÁSVEGUR Reykjavík Maritime Laugardalshöll narfjörður DUNHAGI Museum Sports hall SKIPASUND www.hafnarborg.is Grandagarður 8 | B2 SÆMUNDARGATA HÁTEIGSVEGUR Hannesarholt Open daily 10-17 SNORRABRAUT Grundarstígur 10 | F4 Reykjavík Museum of HOLTAVEGUR EFSTASUND

www.hannesarholt.is Photography LANGHOLTSVEGUR GUNNARSBRAUT TÓMASARHAGI Nordic House LÁGMÚLI STURLUAGATA TÍGUR Tryggvagata 15 | D3 ÁRMÚLI Culture Center FLÓKAGATA Hitt Húsið VATNSMÝRARVEGUR Gallery Tukt Mon-Thur 12–19 / Fri 12- 18 / Sat–Sun 13–17 ENGJAVEGUR FÁLKAGATA Pósthússtræti 3-5 | D4 Viðey Island NORDIC GAMLA HRINGBRAUT www.hitthusid.is Shopping 11 KronKron 12 Lucky Records Ferry from Skarfabakki Taxi Hverfisgallerí Harbour, Sat-Sun only RAUÐARÁRS Laugavegur 63b BSÍ 10 Kjarvalsstaðir Rauðarástígur 10 Hverfisgata 4 | D4 Coach Geysir National www.videy.com ARAGATA If it’s cutting-edge, international big name www.hverfisgalleri.is COOL SUÐURLANDSBRAUT NJARÐARGATA Terminal Museum All freshly set up in their brand new, huge Saga Museum ODDAGATA Skólavörðustígur 7 & 16 designers you are in the market for, then this ÚTHLÍÐ location just next to Hlemmur, this is i8 Gallery Grandagarður 2 | B2 at it’s best store will be to you like Willy Wonka’s factory Tryggvagata 16 | D3 EGGERTSGATA This tourist shop gathers memorabilia, hands-down the finestSTAKKAHLÍÐ record store in town. www.sagamuseum.is was to Charlie. Fully stocked in the chicest Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat LYNGHAGI souvenirs, clothing and gift items from all Crate-diggers will marvel and fawn over their Sigurjón Ólafsson ÁRMÚLI young names in fashion and some one-of-a- 13–17 and by appoint- over Iceland at a convenient location. Great selectionBÓLSTAÐARHLÍÐ while the lay music listener can Museum LANGAHLÍÐ ment. www.i8.is kind local designs too—the shoes are not to SÍÐUMÚLI for loading up at the last minute, as their easily pop in to pick up the latest from their Laugarnestangi 70 HÁALEITISBRAUT MIKLABRAUT The Icelandic Phal- Open all HRINGBRAUT be missed! KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT STARHAGI stock is diverse and high-quality. favourites. Live music and DJs are regularly www.lso.is lological Museum Easter ÁLFHEIMAR scheduledSKAFTAHLÍÐ for live entertainment. Laugavegur 116 | F8 SÍM www.phallus.is HafnarstrætiÁLFTAMÝRI 16 | D3 GOÐHEIMAR NAUTHÓLSVEGUR Mon-Fri 10-16 Kirsuberjatréð SAFAMÝRI Shops: Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00, Sat 10:00–16:00, The National and University Library, Public Toilets www.sim.is Public Phones ESKIHLÍÐ Vesturgata 4 | D3 SÓLHEIMAR Sun closed. The shopping centres Kringlan and SKÓGARHLÍÐ Arngrímsgata 3 BARMAHLÍÐ www.kirs.is Sólon Bistro There aren’t manyBÚSTAÐAVEGUR public payphones in the Public toilets in the centre can be found Smáralind as well as most supermarkets and Tourist Information Centre, Aðalstræti 2 Bankastræti 7a | E4 city centre. The tourist information centre inside the green-poster covered tow- Mengi Mon-Thu 11-23:30 tourist shops have longer opening hours. REYKJAHLÍÐ MIKLABRAUT at Aðalstræti 2, City Hall, Kolaportið, Icelandic Travel Market, Bankastræti 2 ers located, for example, at Hlemmur, Óðinsgata 2 | F5 Fri-Sat 11-01 Swimming pools: Weekdays 06:30–22:00 and MÁVAHLÍÐ entrance at Landsbankinn and in Lækjar- Reykjavík Backpackers, Laugavegur 28 Ingólfstortorg, by Hallgrímskirkja, by www.mengi.net Sun 11-23 weekends 09:00–17:00, although each pool STIGAHLÍÐ LJÓSHEIMAR ÞORRAGATA gata. Prepaid international phone cards Swimming Pools Reykjavík Art Museum, Lækjargata and by Mokka Kaffi Spark Design Space varies plus or minus a few hours. are recommended for int’l callers. DRÁPUHLÍÐ Eymundsson on Skólavörðustígur. Toilets Skólavörðustígur 3A | E5 Klapparstígur 33 | E5 There are several swimming pools in GNOÐARVOGUR Reykjavík Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri 09:00- can also be found inside the Reykjavík www.mokka.is M-Fri 12-18, Sat 12-16 Nordic House Internet Access Reykjavík. The one in 101 Reykjavík, Domestic 16:00. City Hall and the Reykjavík Library. The National Gallery www.sparkdesign- Sturlugata 5 Most cafés offer free wireless internet Sundhöll Reykjavíkur, is an indoor one, space.com SKEIFAN Airport Post Offices BLÖNDUHLÍÐ STAKKAHLÍÐ GRÆNAHLÍÐ of Iceland 101 Reykjavik access. Computers with internet connec- located at Barónsstígur. It features a Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | F3 Taxi Post offices are located around the city. The Tveir Hrafnar +354 551 0200 tions are available to use at: nice sunbathing area and some outdoor Tue–Sun 11–17 Baldursgata 12 | G4 downtown post office is at Pósthússtræti 3–5, MIKLABRAUT www.aalto.is Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Tjarnargata 11 hot tubs. Opening hours: Mon-Thu from www.listasafn.is Thu-Fri 12-17, Sat 13-16 open Mon–Fri 09:00–18:00. Stamps are also FELLSMÚLI FLUGVALLARVEGUR 06:30–22:00, Fri from 06:30–20:00, The National Museum www.tveirhrafnar.is GRENSÁSVEGUR sold at bookstores, gas stations, tourist shops Ground Zero, Frakkastígur 8, near Sat from 08:00–16:00 and Sun from Suðurgata 41 | G2 Wind & Weather and some grocery stores. Laugavegur 45, Kringlan 10:00–18:00. HAMRAHLÍÐ Open daily 10–17 Gallery G The Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata 15 www.natmus.is Shopping Mall Hverfisgata 37 | E5 www.windandweather.is HÖRGSHLÍÐ EINARSNES

HÁAHLÍÐ

BÚSTAÐAVEGUR

STIGAHLÍÐ BAUGANES Hótel Loftleiðir Perlan SKILDINGANES LISTABRAUT

OFANLEITI

E KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT MENNTAVEGUR VESTURHLÍÐ

SUÐURHLÍÐ

NAUTHÓLSVEGUR

University of Reykjavík

Nauthólsvík best of reykjavík

Every year around the beginning of July, we make a BEST OF REYKJAVÍK ISSUE celebrating some of what makes Reykjavík-life worthwhile, posting some good entries into a hopefully never- ending discussion. The following are some nice tips we pulled from BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2015, which you can read in full at www.grapevine.is. Dining and Activities and Shopping and THE COOLEST Grubbing Funtimes Commerce GASTROPUB Best Place To Go For A Date Best Place To Enjoy A Zen Best Record Store Kolabrautin Moment Reykjavík Record Shop IN TOWN Viðey Kitchen open until 23

Austurbakki 2 Klapparstígur 35 Kolabrautin is fancy as all get-out so it Just outside of the hubbub of Reykjavík’s This newcomer has quickly become a might not fit everyone’s wallet. If you downtown area lies Viðey, a tiny local favourite. With a small but well- want a casual beer-food vibe then Bunk unpopulated island in the Faxaflói bay. groomed selection, what you see is what Bar might be a better bet. But if you’re It’s dotted with a couple of buildings, you get. “There are less records than going all in and dressed to impress, make including one of Iceland’s oldest churches, at Lucky, but there is higher product it Kolabrautin. Firstly, Italian food is a quaint cabin, and a small restaurant. turnover and the records are always in the classic date meal and Kolabrautin Home to a series of pillar sculptures by excellent quality. You can always find have rebranded as a modernist Italian Richard Serra and Yoko Ono’s “Peace something really good at a reasonable restaurant with a handsome selection of Tower,” it’s accessible by Elding boat in price,” said our crate-digger panelist. Italian wines. Secondly, the atmosphere the summer (somewhat optimistically “Sometimes it has really weird, rare and and lighting is just right for some under- designated as May-September), leaving obscure albums that are unexpected the-table footsies. Thirdly, it’s got an from Harpa, Reykjavík’s old harbour, or alongside new beautiful records by unbeatable view over the Reykjavík the ferry terminal on Skarfagarðar, for current bands.” Plus, the owner has been marina from the top floor of the Harpa a reasonable 1,200 ISK. “Viðey feels like known to be a bit of a personal shopper concert hall. a step away from the city,” one reader to some local DJs, helping them get the noted. “As soon as you set foot on the boat, records they need to keep Reykjavík you’re decompressing from downtown. crowds dancing. Keep up the good work! And once you’re on the island it’s even better—you can be completely at peace, Laugavegur 24 | #publichouse101 away from the summer crowds. Esja publichouse.is looks beautiful—you’re right there with the mountains, the sea and the nature.”

Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Everyday from 16:00 to 18:00. Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 20:00. Beer 600 ISK, Wine 650 ISK. Beer 700 ISK, Wine 700 ISK, selected Beer 500 ISK. A Guide Bravó cocktails 1,000 ISK. Public House Every day from 17:00 to 21:00. Iða Zimsen Every day from 14:00 to 18:00. 50% Beer 500 ISK, Wine 850 ISK. Every day from 17:00 to 22:00. off beer and wine. Beer 495 ISK, Wine That Bryggjan Brugghús Beer 450 ISK. 695 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Ísafold Bistro Reykjavík Chips Beer 750 ISK. Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Every day from 20:00 to 22:00. 2 beers Fucks Bunk Bar Beer 600 ISK, Wine 900 ISK. and fries 2,000 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Kaffibarinn Rio Sportbar Beer 600 ISK, Wine 750 ISK. Every day from 15:00 to 20:00. Every day from 12:00 to 20:00. You Up Café Haiti Beer 650 ISK. Beer 750 ISK, Wine 800 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Kaldi Bar SKY Bar & Lounge Beer 650 ISK, Wine 800 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. A list of every Den Danske Kro Beer 650 ISK, Wine 650 ISK. Beer 600 ISK, Wine 900 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. 2-for-1 Kiki Queer Bar Skuggi Bar Happy Hour in Beer 1,000 ISK and Wine 1,200 ISK. Thursday from 16:00 to 19:00. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. 2-for-1 101 Reykjavík Dillon Beer 500 ISK, Shots 500 ISK. Beer 500 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Kitchen & Wine Bar Skúli Craft Bar Beer 550 ISK, Wine 700 ISK, Whiskey Thursday from 16:00 to 18:30. Every day from 14:00 to 19:00. 550 ISK. Beer 750 ISK, Wine 900 ISK, selected Beer 700 ISK, Wine 1,000 ISK. American Bar Dubliner cocktails 1,500 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Slippbarinn Every day from 12:00 to 22:00 Beer 650 ISK, Wine 750 ISK. Download the Klaustur Bar Every day from 15:00 to 18:00. Beer 700 ISK, Wine 800 ISK Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Beer 500 ISK, Wine 600 ISK, selected Austur FREE Grapevine Dúfnhólar 10 Beer 800 ISK, Wine 800 ISK. cocktails 1,000 ISK. Thursday to Saturday from 20:00 to Every day from 17:00 to 22:00. 00:00. Appy Hour app! Konsúll Café Sólon Bistro Beer 490 ISK, Wine for 700 ISK. Beer 800 ISK, Wine 800 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Every day from 15:00 to 18:00. Einar Ben Every happy hour in Beer 600 ISK, Wine 900 ISK. Beer 650 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. B5 Every day from 17:30 to 20:00. Every day from 17:00 to 20:00. Kryddlegin Hjörtu Sushisamba Beer 700 ISK, Wine 800 ISK. town in your pocket. Beer 500 ISK, Cocktails Mon-Fri 15:00-17:00, Sat 12:00-15:00. Beer Every day from 17:00 to 18:30. 1,100 ISK, Wine 600 ISK. English Pub Available in the App 650 ISK, Wine 750 ISK, Mojito 1,500 ISK. Beer 645 ISK, Wine 745 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Bar 7 Lebowski Bar Tíu Dropar Beer 650 ISK, Wine 750 ISK. Store and on the Every day from 16:00 to 21:00. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. 2-for-1 Every day from 18:00 to 21:00. 2-for-1 Beer 350 ISK, Shot 350 ISK. Frederiksen Ale House Android Play Store. Beer 1,100 ISK and Wine 1,100 ISK. Beer 1,000 ISK and Wine 1,000 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. 2-for-1 Bar 11 Loft Hostel Bar Tacobarinn Beer 900 ISK and Wine 1,100 ISK. Friday to Saturday from 21:00 to 01:00. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Mon-Sat from 16:00 to 19:00. Beer 500 ISK. Forréttabarinn Beer 600 ISK, Wine 750 ISK, selected Beer 600 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Fri-Sat from 22:30 to 01:00. Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. cocktails 1,200 ISK. Beer 600 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Bar Ananas MarBar Beer 500 ISK, Wine 650 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Hótel Natura Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Uno Beer 600 ISK, Cocktails 1,650 ISK. Gaukurinn Every day from 16:00 to 18:00. 50% off Beer 600 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Every day from 14:00 to 21:00 Beer 600 all drinks. Beer 550 ISK, Wine 1,000 Beer 545 ISK, Wine 600 ISK. Barber Bar Matur og Drykkur ISK, Wine 750 ISK, Shots 750 ISK. ISK, selected cocktails 1,600 ISK. Every day from 17:00 to 20:00. Thursday to Sunday, 21:00-22:00. Uppsalir Beer 650 ISK, Wine 700 ISK, selected Glaumbar Hótel Plaza Bar Beer 500 ISK, Wine 500 ISK. Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. 2-for-1 Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. cocktails 1,150 ISK. Thursday to Saturday from 20:00 to Micro Bar Beer 950 ISK and Wine 1,200 ISK. 00:00. Beer 500 ISK, Shot 390 ISK. Beer 600 ISK, Wine 900 ISK. Bíó Paradís Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Vínsmakkarinn Every day from 17:00 to 20:00. Hótel 1919 Hraðlestin Beer 700 ISK. Monday to Sunday from 17:00 to 20:00. Beer 500 ISK, Wine 500 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 18:00. Nora Magasin Beer 600 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Beer 600 ISK, Wine 575 ISK, selected Beer 590 ISK, Wine 590 ISK. Bjarni Fel Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Ölstofan cocktails 1,090 ISK. Monday to Friday from 21:00 to 23:00. Húrra Beer 650 ISK, Wine 600 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. 2-for-1 Beer 1,090 ISK, single with Every day from 18:00 to 21:00. Petersen Svítan Beer 490 ISK, Wine 890 ISK, gin & mixer 1,500 ISK. Beer 500 ISK, Wine 700 ISK. Wed-Sat from 17:00 to 20:00. tonic 990 ISK. Boston Íslenski Barinn Beer 800 ISK, Wine 900 ISK. Hótel Holt Gallery Bar Prikið 15

ART Route 40 takes you to OPENING & ONGOING Experience Icelandic Art and Design on your way to the Blue Lagoon

Route 40

Framing Hafnarborg March 18th – May 22nd / The Hafnarfjordur Centre And The Truth Will Set You Free An installation by the artist duo Hugsteypan where viewers crea- of Culture and Fine Art 'Artmess' by Katrín Lilja Ingu Jónsdóttir tive participation is encouraged. Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður Your Place – Our Town. Open 12–17 / Thursdays 12–21 Ekkisens Open Workshop Closed on Tuesdays March 9th – April 3rd www.hafnarborg.is Open workshop on urban plan- Bergstaðastræti 25b (F4) | Admission: Free! March 6 at 15:00, March 9 at 20:00, & March 13 at 15:00 ning in Hafnarfjordur.

Katrín Lilja Ingu Jónsdóttir guides us through her Art Mass, where guests are offered the chance to Blind Date Gerðarsafn - worship art in its many varied forms. There will be art psalms, sermons on art, and opportunities for 5. March – 10 April Kópavogur Art Museum Hamraborg 4, Kópavogur people to confirm their belief in art. During the time of year that teenagers are having en masse Confir- MA Degree Show in Open 11–17 / Closed on Mondays Design and Fine Art www.gerdarsafn.is mation ceremonies, Katrín points out through her performance art how absurd religious belief can be. The Iceland Academy of the Arts She has performed the show in various art spaces on multiple occasions since 2009. GB 16. April – 8. May

KEEPERS Hönnunarsafn Íslands between Icelanders, Swedes and Finns Runs March 19 at 15:00 So here‘s a funny story Icelandic design highlights, / Museum of Design from the Collection saw each studio design one third of a piece ‘Everness - Revolutions of Time’ The Goldengang comedy troupe hosts a and Applied Art of furniture back in 2014. The designs This Listastofan group show includes works stand-up night where they have to tell an TRIAD Garðatorg 1, Garðabær have since been put together in new and by Martyna Daniel, Emma Sanderson, improvised story on the spot. March 9th - May 29th Open 12–17 / Closed on Mondays imaginative manners, such as a floor lamp Juliette Rowland, Joshua Ásberg, Wiola Runs March 30 at 21:00 Fashion design, jewellery www.honnunarsafn.is design, ceramic design that has 27 different combinations. There Anna Ujazdowska, Luna Bro and Birna Loft is a special opening party on March 9 at María Yngri. Swap till you drop 20:00. Opens March 31 This swapping event has very simple rules: Opens March 9 Runs until April 14 bring your items (jewellery, books, clean Runs until April 1 Stúdentakjallarinn clothes, etc.) and exchange them for free Listastofan Bingo! with objects brought by other people. Monday Life Drawing Sessions Lucky with numbers? Play bingo and win Runs March 23 at 16:30 Every Monday, participants get the a prize! Loft Pub Quiz opportunity to practice drawing with a Runs March 23 at 20:00 The quiz is hosted by Albert. Arrive early to nude model. On Saturdays, the sessions is Gaukurinn get a good spot. a full hour longer. Come Talk Funny Runs March 30 Runs March 7, 12, 14, 21, 26, 28, Open Mic Stand-up Comedy by members Reykjavík City Library, Kringlan & April 4 at 19:00 of the Goldengang comedy troupe. ‘Í fullorðinna manna tölu’ Lopapeysa Making Runs runs March 7, 14, 21, 28, & This exhibit focuses on the Confirmation, Learn how to make your own lopapeysa April 4 at 21:00 with a host of items and gifts connected with Icelandic textile artist Aðalheiður Make THIS Funny! to the event on display as well as famous National Flosadóttir. The Goldengang comedy troupe host an words on the ceremony. Runs March 9, 16, 23, 30, & April improvised stand-up night. Runs until April 14 6 at 11:00 Runs March 9, 16, 23, April 4, & 6 Mengi Litla Listastofan at 21:00 ‘The After Opening’ 'Litla Listastofan' is a workshop for children Slam Poetry Competition A live performance by Latvian artist, hosted by Wiola Anna Ujazdowska. The slam poetry is hosted by the rapper Lina Lapylite and the band Dora The Museum of Runs March 9, 16, 23, 30, & April and poet Jón Magnús, aka. Vivid Brain. performance is an experiment in otherness 6 at 18:00 Runs March 10 & 24 at 20:30 and beauty and is in connection with the ‘Oneironautics’ by Jurga Latvyte Drag-Súgur: Queer Variety Show group exhibition ‘Double Bind’ that opens In this textile exhibition, Jurga turns dreams Drag queens, music, and cabaret! at the Living Art Museum. tangential and prints them on pillows. Runs March 18 at 21:00 Runs on March 5 at 21:00 Opens March 10 Poetry Party & Trio de Janeiro ‘Opera / Trickster’ Iceland Runs until March 24 A night of poetry reading by Icelandic Opera plays with soap and radio drama Still Life Workshops poets. Late that night, the band Trio de using opera as a medium and exploring Visual artist and art tutor Wiola Anna Janeiro will perform Calypso and Latin women in such media. Trickster consists Ujazdowska hosts a still life workshop music. of five artists with different backrounds focusing on drawings and paintings. Runs March 19 at 20:00 in music, theater and art. The performers Runs March 15 & 29 at 18:00 Kósí Ljósár are researching the nature of emergent- The Apocalypse: A Post-Life This live music and art collective put on a The form composition where they create forms Drawing Session live performance. together. Life drawing session with a post-civilization Runs March 20 at 20:00 Runs on March 11 at 21:00 twist. Culture An absolute House must-try! Saegreifinn restaurant (Sea Baron) is like none other in Iceland; a world famous lobster soup and a diverse fish selection. Open 11:30 -22:00

National Museum of Iceland The Culture House The country’s largest Manuscripts, fine art, natural museum of cultural specimens, curiosities and history from settlement archeaological findings form to present day. the exhibition Points of View. Suðurgata 41 Hverfisgata 15 saegreifinn.is 101 Reykjavík 101 Reykjavík www.thjodminjasafn.is www.safnahusid.is tel +354 530 22 00 tel +354 530 22 10

Geirsgata 8 • 101 Reykjavík • Tel. 553 1500 • [email protected] The exhibitions, shops and cafés are open daily 10 - 17 Closed on Mondays 16/9 – 3 0/4 16 Enjoy food ART Enjoy books ONGOING Enjoy culture Gallerí Skilti ‘Flicker’ by Anna Hallin & Olga Enjoy the Bergmann This photography exhibit is different from Nordic House most artist collaborations, in that it doesn't concern itself with mankind's relationship with nature and other systems, nor is it site-specific. 'Flicker' is a personal piece, with strong elements of projection and silhouettes, and can be said to be a tableau of a certain period in the two artists' lives. Runs until June 15 Gerðuberg Cultural Centre ‘My world’ by Guðrún Ingibjartsdóttir Guðrún has been painting with watercolours for more than twenty years, and has attended various masterclasses in Iceland, England and France. She gets much of her inspiration from nature.watercolours take on paper. Runs until March 6

‘A Visit to the Monsters’ A child-friendly exhibit that shows the daily lives of Little Monster and Big Diving In Monster. See how they live, where they ‘Double Bind’ sleep, and what they do to pass the time. Runs until April 24 The Living Art Museum Hafnarborg The Nordic House Reykjavík is a vibrant Nordic cultural ‘Fields of lava’ by Kristbergur Völvufell 13 - 21 (D3) | March 5 – April 17 | Admission: Free! Pétursson institution with exhibitions, a library, shop and one This exhibit features new oil and watercolour of the best restaurants in Reykjavík, Aalto Bistro. paintings by Kristbergur, an artist who has This exhibition’s purpose is to restore a sense of political freedom in devoted himself to the painting for over The building is designed by the internationally private psychological practises relating to personal failure. The art- twenty years. His aesthetic leans toward ists put themselves in vulnerable positions, embracing failure and the abstract, where the flow of colours and acclaimed finnish architect Alvar Aalto. space are explored within dark, gloomy exploring how to present depression and other emotions through landscapes. Opening hours art. The nine artists involved have travelled with the exhibit for half Runs until March 13 Mon–Fri 9–17. Sat–Sun 12–17. ‘Diktur’ by Ragnhildur Jóhanns Visit www.nordichouse.is for more information. a year through five cities, ending their tour in Reykjavík. HBG Ragnhildur uses mediums such as sculpture, Book a table: www.aalto.is ‘Crisis Meeting’ Runs until March 31 collage, drawing, and print to explore the Sun–Wed 11–17. Thu–Sat 11–21 Kriðpleir is an ambitious theatre group that Árbær Open Air Museum relationship between language and art. hosts unusual performances fuelled by a This museum has daily guided tours Runs until March 6 passion for truth, acknowledgement and from 13:00 to 14:00 through its open Hallgrímskirkja respect. In their ‘Crisis Meeting’ series, air exhibits of twenty buildings that ‘Sólarljóð’ by Valgerður Bergsdóttir The Nordic House they face an approaching deadline for an showcase the architecture and livelihood Valgerður’s work is inspired by an old Sturlugata 5, 101 Reykjavík application, and muse on the culture of of 19th and 20th century Reykjavíkings. Tel: 5517030, www.nordichouse.is Icelandic poem called “Sólarljóð,” or “Sun sharing and their work methods. On permanent view Poem,” which deals with life and death. Runs on March 18 & 19 at 21:00 Ásgrímur Jónsson Collection Runs until May 14 Reykjavík Arts University ‘EN PLAIN AIR - ALONG THE SOUTH Harbinger Experimental Night COAST’ by Ásgrímur Jónsson ‘Living room’ by Leifur Ýmir Teachers and students from all This collection is from Ásgrímur’s return Eyjólfsson www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is departments of the Reykjavík Arts to Iceland after completing studies in Reykjavík-born Leifur Ýmir has partaken University come together for an Copenhagen, where he felt compelled to in numerous group exhibits, such as experimental night where they perform reconnect with his home country and put ‘#komasvo’, ‘Standard Euro Installation’ and CHECK OUT THE NEW new works and work that is still in his newfound knowledge to use, capturing ‘Ice Ice Baby’. This latest exhibit features progress. the outdoors in the style of the Golden Age illustrations by the rising star. Runs on March 30 at 21:00 of the French and Danish artists. Runs until March 27 REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM Runs until September 16 Hverfisgallerí Ongoing Better Weather Window Gallery 'Painting' by Guðjón Ketilsson COMPRISING 5 TOP MUSEUMS: ‘one, two, three, four, many’ by Guðjón’s solo exhibition will include two Anarkía Johannes Tassilo Walter & Rebecca series of works consisting of his own artist 'Measurements' by Una Erin Moran palettes and then works where he uses his Sigtryggsdóttir This site-specific window installation is own paintings from the 1980s as material. Una's exhibit focuses on the subjectivity of made out of oil, canvas, cotton, and light. Runs until April 9 time, how we measure it, enjoy it, lose it, Runs until March 29 i8 Gallery and how to talk about it. The Einar Jónsson Museum 'Untitled' by Margrét H. Blöndal Runs until March 6 The museum contains close to 300 For the paintings in this exhibition, Margrét ‘Land’ by Sara Oskarsson artworks including a beautiful garden with began by looking at an image, and allowing Artist and activist Sara Oskarsson's new 26 bronze casts of the artist’s sculptures. her focus to fluctuate. The drawings then exhibit is filled with large and colourful On permanent view become almost architectonic, making the paintings. Gallery O boundary between oil and paper nearly Runs until March 6 ‘Kona’ by Gunnar Gunnarsson & tangible. The page becomes more than just ART67 Finnbogi Gunnlaugsson imagination and project, it becomes material This exhibition, called “Woman,” shows Árbær Open Air Musem The Settlement Exhibition Celebrating paper fact. 45 members of Litka Art Association will paintings by Gunnar Gunnarsson and Runs until March 5 exhibit their works of art created solely on sculptures by Finnbogi Gunnlaugsson. The Icelandic Phallological paper. There is a special opening party on Runs until March 17 Museum March 5 at 14:00. The museum contains a collection of more than 215 penises and penile parts belonging to almost all the land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland. There’s also a penis sculpture honouring the Icelandic men's handball team. On permanent view Icelandic Printmakers Association Reykjavík Maritime Museum Viðey Island Watercolour paintings by Nikulás Sigfússon Nikulás Sigfússon exhibits watercolour paintings inspired by Icelandic nature. Runs until March 10 Mokka-Kaffi ‘Lions on the Road’ by Ragnheiður Pálsdóttir Ragnheiður has been experimenting with photography for decades and exhibits pictures taken from the southwest of Iceland last year. This is her first exhibit. Runs until March 9 Reykjavík Museum of Museum of Design and Applied Photography Art ‘Keepers’ This exhibit focuses on the collections in the Museum of Design and Applied Art, More information in the displaying a few key pieces, and explores Museums & Galleries section. how and why the museum curates the works that it does. The title refers both to ART 17 The Hallgrímskirkja Friends of the Arts Society 34th season ONGOING EASTER FESTIVAL AT HALLGRIMSKIRKJA 2016 the objects themselves, the ones worth Reykjavík Art Museum - keeping, as well as the people who Kjarvalsstaðir preserved them, kept them, and eventually ‘Jóhannes S. Kjarval: Mind and March 19th -27th gave them to the museum for safekeeping. World’ Runs until June 10 The exhibition is comprised of rarely Saturday March 19th 2 pm The National Gallery seen works from the private collection ‘Quartet’ by Chantal Joffe, Gauthier of Þorvaldur Guðmundsson and his PETER AND THE WOLF by Prokofiev Organist Mattias Wager of Storkyrkan church in Hubert, Jocken Nordström, & Tumi wife Ingibjörg Guðmundsdóttir, which is Stockholm performs Prokofiev’s Peter and the Wolf, Magnússon preserved at Gerðarsafn, alongside pieces arranged by W. Grimm. This exhibit brings together the work of from the Reykjavík Art Museum’s own Actress Halldóra Geirharðsdóttir tells the story. four contemporary artists: Gauthier Hubert, collection. Admission: 2500 ISK. Free for kids. Chantal Joffe, Jockum Nordström, and Runs until August 28 Tumi Magnússon. These pieces all centre Reykjavík City Library Palm Sunday March 20th 5 pm on the human being as depicted in various ‘Drawings and Nice Things – stages of art history, with each artist taking A Comics Exhibition’ by Lilja ORGAN AND POETRY – Stations of the Cross – Le chemin de la Croix MATTIAS WAGER ORGAN aesthetic inspiration from a different Hólmfriðar Pétursdóttir & The outstanding organist Mattias Wager of Storkyrkan church period. Sigmundur B. Þorgeirsson in Stockholm performs music by the French composer Marcel Runs until May 1 The exhibition features a variety of Dupré. Actress Solveig Simha reads the poem Le chemin de ‘The First Exhibitions of Icelandic drawings and sketches by cartoonists Lilja la Croix by Frenchman Paul Claudel that the composition is Art in Copenhagen’ and Simmi, some of which are taken from based upon. In 1927, the exhibition ‘Udstilling af Simmi‘s graduation project, the graphic Admittance: 2500 ISK. islandsk kunst (An Exhibition of Icelandic novel ‘Super Viking Boy: When Alien Art)’ presented Icelandic art to the public Robots Attack!’ Holy Thursday March 24th in Copenhagen for the first time. This Runs until March 26 8 pm SCHOLA CANTORUM’S LENT CONCERT exhibition explores some of the works Reykjavík Maritime Museum Hallgrimskirkja´s splendid chamber choir, Schola presented at this landmark event. The Coast Guard Vessel Óðinn Cantorum, gives a concert with beautiful lent Runs until September 11 This vessel sailed through all three Cod music including the works of Gesualdo and the Vasulka Chamber Wars and has also served as a rescue ship famous Miserere by Allegri. Conductor Hörður Steina and Woody Vasulka are some of to more than 200 ships. Áskelsson. the pioneers of multimedia and video art, On permanent view Free admittance. and have a show at the National Gallery. ‘From Poverty to Abundance’ Easter Sunday March 27th They began experimenting with electronic Photos documenting Icelandic fishermen at sound, stroboscopic light, and video in the the turn of the 20th century. Festive Masses at 8 and 11 am. The Hallgrimskirkja’s late 60s, and haven’t stopped since. On permanent view Motet Choir performs festive Easter music. Conductor On permanent view The History of Sailing and organist Hörður Áskelsson. The National Museum of Iceland Iceland’s maritime history that showcases ‘Bundled Up In Blue’ the growth of the Reykjavík Harbour. This exhibition is centred around new On permanent view archeological findings from bones believed ‘Seawomen - the fishing women of to belong to a woman from the settlement Iceland, past and present’ era, discovered in 1938 in East Iceland. This exhibition, in celebration of the New research provides answers as to the centennial anniversary of women’s suffrage age of the woman in question, where she in Iceland, explores Icelandic women at came from, together with indications of sea. The exhibit presents not only historical what she may have looked like and how material but also interviews with Icelandic she would have dressed. women who work in the fishing industry Runs until August 31 today. ‘The Making Of A Nation’ On permanent view Ticket sale at Hallgrimskirkja tel. 510 1000 and midi.is This exhibition is intended to provide The Reykjavík Museum of See more events on: listvinafelag.is insight into the history of the Icelandic Photography nation from Settlement to the present day. ‘MOOD’ by Friðgeir Helgason On permanent view This exhibit features photographs from ‘What Is So Interesting About it?’ both Friðgeir’s homeland, Iceland, and In celebration of the 100th anniversary of the United States, in which he has lived women gaining the right to vote in Iceland, for a large portion of his adult life. The this exhibit presents examples of the work exhibit brings attention to the identity- and struggles women have faced since shaping powers of location. There is also gaining that suffrage. This show celebrates a documentary by Þorgeir Guðmundsson women who have achieved in fields that screened alongside the exhibit. Taste the best were previously dominated by men, such as Runs until May 15 politics, business, arts, and sports. ‘The Eye of Timelessness’ by Arnór Runs until August 31 Kári Reykjavík Art Museum - The Eye of Timelessness is the name of Ásmundarsafn a new exhibition in Skotið at Reykjavík ‘Yearning for Space’ Museum of Photography with photos shot of Iceland ... This exhibit presents dreams of the future by Arnór Kári. from the eyes of the 50s and 60s, during Runs until March 29 the age of space exploration. It addresses Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum the dialogue between visions of the future, ‘Female Idols’ by Sigurjón Ólafsson spatial and formal perception, and the To mark the centennial anniversary of ... in one amazing meal genre blend between science fiction and women in Iceland winning the right to vote, modernist art. Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum has created an Runs until April 5 exhibition of classical portrait sculptures of Reykjavík Art Museum - women produced by Sigurjón. ICELANDIC GOURMET FEAST Hafnarhús Runs until May 31 ‘Back to the Sandbox: Art and SÍM (CIA) Starts with a shot of the infamous Radical Pedagogy’ ‘Enn ein Játning’ by Sölvi Dúnn Icelandic spirit Brennívín Some evidence suggests that potential Snæbjörnsson for learning declines while in school. This Sölvi’s oil painting exhibition serves as a Followed by 7 delicious tapas exhibit features works by artists who are confession of his love to another artist, his • Smoked puffin with blueberry inspired by this paradox and who consider love of pastels, his fear of judgement, and “brennivín” sauce learning and education a key issue in his constant search for recognition. today’s world. Runs until March 23 • Icelandic Arctic Charr with peppers-salsa Runs until April 10 Tveir Hrafnar Gallery ‘Class Divider’ by Berglind Jóna ‘Nýtt Ár / New Year’ • Lobster tails baked in garlic Hlynsdóttir This exhibit shows selected works from In this exhibit, Berglind ponders the some of the gallery’s most beloved artists. • Pan-fried line caught blue ling with purpose of the class divider that separates Runs until further notice lobster-sauce first class from economy on airlines, and Wind And Weather Gallery how it serves to separate people in an ‘Implant / Inngræðsla’ by Úlfur • Grilled Icelandic lamb Samfaina entirely man-made space. Karlsson Runs until April 10 Úlfur’s latest exhibit is a site-specific mixed • Minke Whale with cranberry-sauce ‘Envoi’ by Monika Grzymala media painting that features a healthy Monika Grzymala is known for her amount of red and black colours. And for dessert three-dimensional drawings, as well as Runs until April 24 • White chocolate "Skyr" mousse with passion her unique and innovative approach to Volcano House contemporary drawing and installation art. ‘The Volcano House Geology fruit coulis Runs until April 10 Exhibition’ ‘The Making of Erró’ The exhibition gives a brief overview of This exhibitions explores Erró’s early days Iceland’s geological history and volcanic 7.990 kr. as an artist, showing his experiments systems with superb photographs of with self-expression, and his move from volcanic eruptions and other magnificent impressionist art to collages. aspects of Icelandic nature. Oh, and you’re Runs until October 9 allowed to touch the exhibits. late night dining On permanent view Our kitchen is open until 23:30 on weekdays RESTAURANT- BAR and 01:00 on weekends Vesturgata 3B | 101 Reykjavík | Tel: 551 2344 | www.tapas.is The Reykjavík Grapevine 18 Issue 3 — 2016 futurism the annual "i was there, man" festival

WORDS: Gabríel Benjamin PHOTOS: Art Bicnick, Gulli

The Next Big Thing: Young Musicians SpreadSpread TheirTheir WingsWings Atat Músíktilraunir

continues, “and an increased number out of their garage and to a place of electronic artists.” where they can create good music.” At each of the elimination rounds Raising the the judges pick one band and the audience another to progress to the next generation final night. “Just advancing is recognition in itself,” Ása says. The competition takes place in Har- On the final night, which is broad- pa’s Norðurljós over five evenings, cast live on the radio station Rás 2, with the winners crowned on the the panel picks the top three bands, final night. Ása explains that each as well as handing out prizes for best night sees some ten to twelve bands songwriting, guitar player, and so on. take to the stage, before which they The top three winners get twenty get a primer on STEF (“The Perform- hours in a studio with a sound engi- “Nobody is born an artist. You need landic music. The 1994-5 winners, it’s the reason many of the bands ing Rights Society of Iceland”), how neer and a spot on the coveted Ice- to practice, and have a venue to do Maus and Botnleðja, were the front- start in the first place. The contest to sound-check, and the importance land Airwaves festival roster. so.” So says Ása Hauksdóttir in her runners of the 90s punk scene. The has become a staple of the music cal- of a good stage plan, as well as tips “Whether people win or not isn’t calm and soothing voice, in between 1999 winners Mínus gave hardcore a endar, and sees some 40 new bands on how to protect their hearing and the point,” Ása emphasises. “It is, like sips of a double cappuccino of her much-needed facelift, as did 2000’s sign up each year, all drawn from the so on. my colleague says, more of an oppor- own making. Ása is the head of youth winner, XXX Rottweiler Hundar, grassroots. “Our goal for the past decade has tunity to test your flight feathers.” centre Hitt Húsið’s cultural depart- to Icelandic hip-hop. And many of Ása has been a part of the com- been to give all of the contestants the ment, and is in the middle of organ- today’s most popular homegrown petition since 2003, and in that time opportunity to work in a professional Músiktilraunir is hosted on April 2-5, ising the upcoming Músiktilraunir bands, including Mammút, Agent she’s seen many of the trends that environment with good stage hands, with the final competition on on April (“Music Experiments”), Iceland’s an- Fresco, Of Monsters and Men, Sa- have fed today’s scene. She mentions sound, lights, and organisation,” 9. Tickets are 1,500 ISK for the pre- nual Battle of the Bands competition. maris, and Úlfur Úlfur (then Bróðir the shift from English to Icelandic Ása tells us, “as well as offer them liminary shows and 2,000 for the final The competition has been held Svartúlfs) are past winners. lyrics, and the increased presence of the chance to network with other night. every year since 1982 (except 1984, In Ása’s mind, this empowering women over the past decade. “Lately up-and-coming artists. Most of the The deadline to register new bands is due to a teacher’s strike), and past competition does more than high- there have been a lot of singer-song- bands have never performed with March 14 on www.musiktilraunir.is. winners have gone on to define Ice- light the future of Icelandic music: writer types like Axel Flóvent,” she stage monitors—we want to get them SHARE: gpv.is/tilr

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The one that you can't help but hear everywhere:

2010 - Of Monsters and Men

The one that successfully rebranded:

2009 - Bróðir Svartúlfs (now Úlfur Úlfur)

The one you can't get enough of:

2004 - Mammút

The one your middle-aged coworkers won't shut up about:

2003 - Dáðadrengir

The one that vanished without a trace:

1998 - Stæner 20 FOOD YEASTY YEASTY FOOD

WORDS: John Rogers PHOTOS: Art Bicnick

to British Columbia. Our flagship “I’ve been coming to the beer fes- beer is urban farmhouse ale—a sim- tival since it started,” said Gunnar Beer, Beer Everywhere ple, refreshing, mostly pilsner malt Ingi, an attendee determined to try and rye, and yeast-driven. We haven’t everything on offer. “The Funk Or- met the other brewers yet, but I’m chard from Alefarm in Copenhagen Kexland’s Icelandic Beer looking forward to meeting them.” was really good, and the Myrtle from Commons Brewery was too. But I Better drinking like the sour ales best. I enjoyed the Festival is a knockout The brewers were set up around Kex red wine barrel-aged Acid Trip. I’m Hostel’s spacious Sæmundur pub hoping they’ll put on the white wine Kex Hostel’s cosy, low-lit bar en- daintily sniffing it, and holding up while chatting about ingredients, fla- and restaurant, with some pouring barrel-aged version tonight, but I’m tertained a slightly different crowd their undersized glasses to check out vours and brewing techniques. their beers behind the central bar, not sure they’ll make it.” than usual for four days in February. the beer’s colour. Amongst the throng, we grabbed and others from barrels propped un- Plans for the festival started al- There were more beards in the room, The occasion was the (sold-out) a few interesting-looking characters der trestle tables around the room. most a year ago. “We started organis- for a start; and those beards perhaps Icelandic Beer Festival, an annual for a chat. Sam, who came with the The longest queue was for the Dan- ing it right after the festival last year a bit bushier and less kempt. There event organised by Kexland, at which Portland, Oregon-based Commons ish brewery Mikkeller, who opened was over,” says Óli Gústi, one of the was a certain loucheness amongst overseas and Icelandic craft brewers Brewery, was taking a break from the a craft bar on Hverfisgata in 2015. Kexland organisers. “Then in Octo- the buzzing, almost uniformly male plied their wares to a happy group pumps to enjoy a light IPA. “We do Their Acid Drop sour ale was aged ber we started to think about import- throng, with their slicked-down hair, of beer enthusiasts. The brewers Belgian and French-style ales, and in wine barrels, giving it a distinc- ing the beers. And really, we just fin- rosy cheeks, stocky builds and jaunti- poured their ales for the assembled German lagers,” he said. “We kinda tive and eye-opening flavour strong ished setting everything up today. So ly angled flat caps. And they weren’t drinkers—at no cost other than the focus on Northwest ingredients. We enough to give this writer goose- it’s been a long haul. We have brew- just knocking their beer back, but 4,000 ISK festival wristband—all the mostly sell in the US but a little goes bumps. Ordinary beer, this is not. eries from Iceland, Denmark, and the

SWEET OR SAVORY?

Get your treat at KEF Airport 21

FOOD Amazing THE LIQUID KIND 7 course menu

A unique Icelandic Feast

Starts with a shot of the Icelandic national spirit “Brennivín“ Puffin Smoked puffin with blueberries, croutons, goats cheese, beetroot Minke whale Date purée, wakame, teriaky Arctic charr “Torched“ arctic charr with parsnip purée, fennel, dill mayo US. We want to bring in the beers we vannah, Georgia. I’m gonna be here think are most exciting. We want to for a few months so he came with Lobster get these great beers to the people me for the first couple of weeks. We Lobster cigar with chorizo, dates, chili jam here in Reykjavík and let them try didn’t actually know it was going on Reindeer something new. And to encourage until we got here, so the timing was Reindeer slider with blue cheese, people to improve their drinking—to perfect. How could we not come to a portobello, steamed bun drink less, but better.” beer festival?” Free range icelandic lamb The closing party took place in Lamb with coriander, pickled red cabbage, Keeping tabs the empty gallery space beneath Kex. fennel, butternut squash purée, chimichurri With twelve breweries, each pouring After four days of revelry, the festival And to end on a high note ... several different ales across the course crowd had become familiar to each Icelandic Skyr of the festival, it could become diffi- other, creating a raucous and com- Skyr infused with birch, Hverfisgata cult to keep track. We spotted Kristine radely atmosphere. All of the differ- berries, white chocolate Lækjargata Stevens Beeco and her husband Gene ent brewers brought out something Lækjar- torg crumble, and sorrel granite carrying around a notebook, scribbling special, bringing the hubbub up to a Laugavegur down the names of everything they crescendo, and as the last kegs were tried, so as not to miss out. emptied, this new fellowship of beer Skólavörðust. 7.590 kr. Skólastræti

“I’m actually here researching a festival friends poured out onto an Amtmannsstígur Ingólfsstræti Our kitchen is open Þingholtsstræti book,” said Kristine, who was a par- icy Skúlagata, warmed both by the Sushi Samba ticular fan of Einstök’s pale and white beer, and the welcoming culture of 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík ales. “Gene has a brewery called those who make it. 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat. Tel 568 6600 • sushisamba.is Moon River Brewing Company in Sa- SHARE: gpv.is/beer

WE’RE MAKING A BEER FOR YOU! On March 1st, it was 27 years since Ice- land’s beer prohibition ended. To mark the occasion, we've teamed up with Bryggjan Brugghús to brew our own batch called Litli Grís (“Little Pig”). The process took a good eight hours and will yield some 900 litres of double IPA beer. You can expect the hoppy and dry beer to be around 8.8% ABV and hit alcohol stores by the end of the month. Ideally, though, you should come to Bryggjan where it will be on offer on tap. Come join us there in celebration on April 1 where we’ll be selling it at cost price (no, really). The Reykjavík Grapevine 22 Issue 3 — 2016 FOOD MOSTLY TASTY

Iceland’s Most Popular Restaurant

IKEA Restaurant Aiming for a the manager’s order to make the plate and the lingonberry jam was definitely Kauptún 4 homey menu look particularly pretty). not a favourite of mine with its weird 210 Garðabær and atmosphere, I’m a big fan of open shrimp sandwiches, sour taste—I would have much preferred Phone: 520 2500 the IKEA restau- which are the relatives of the bread some authentic sweet Icelandic rhubarb ikea.is rant prides itself cakes I grew up with, which also origi- jam. But I’ll write it up as a cultural dif- Mon-Sun: on a cheap and nate from Scandinavia (smörgåstarta). ference this time. 9:30 am – 8:30 pm varied selection This is a slice of bread with salad, topped Swedes are nuts about balls and IKEA of courses. I got with eggs, mayonnaise, shrimps and has every type of them: meatballs, fish- What we think a three courses, vegetables for decoration. Very pretty. balls, vegetable balls and even dessert Solid everyday food consisting of an However, the bread by itself tasted cream balls, although those are more for busy people or open sandwich rather stale, having stood in a cool- correctly referred to as cream puffs in people with nothing with shrimp, egg ing shelf probably since the morning. English. Those were adorably presented to do and vegetables Also, it was rather difficult to get a bite and it almost seemed a shame to dig in. (695 ISK); the with everything mixed, so it was either However, these had also been stored on Flavour flagship course, a bite of dry bread with a bit of salad the cooling shelves where customers can I honestly cannot meatballs in or a mouthful of eggs, shrimps and easily grab them, and they were starting think of a better brown sauce mayonnaise. It should have been more to harden at the top. The cream puffs word than “ok.” with potatoes equally distributed over the bread. The were accompanied by a strange kind and lingonberry imported shrimps by themselves were of whipped cream—which I seriously Ambiance jam (895 ISK); also rather flavourless but once you man- doubt is real cream but rather some arti- Corporate lunch- and for dessert, aged to get a good bite with everything, ficial cream substitute—and vanilla sauce room-like (but with cream puffs with it was decent. Worst of all was suddenly with hardly any vanilla taste. noisy kids) (more!) cream crunching your teeth on a bit of eggshell. All in all, it was an ok meal which I and vanilla sauce Unacceptable! However, the manager would describe as industrialised mommy Service (395). quickly reassured me that this was no food, great for those with little money/ Self-service (except To start with, all fault of the company’s but the supplier time/refined sense of taste. However, it is the hot food is put the courses were who peels the eggs for them. to be noted that I only had standardised on a plate for you) well-presented For a main course, I had the traditional courses from the main menu. The meal and looked Swedish (although Icelandic-made). of the month often seems more interest- Price for 2 (no good (except This is ok if you’re a hungry overworked, ing. Also, there are free sauces! All the drinks) perhaps the underpaid parent with three hyperactive cocktail sauce you want! Big plus there. What makes it worth meatballs, which kids. But the brown sauce didn’t quite - Ragna Ó. Guðmundsdóttir it (i.e. cheap!). were carelessly match up to the delicious brown sauce spooned onto that comes with 1944 meatballs (1944 the plate despite is an Icelandic microwave food brand), SHARE: gpv.is/eatkea

N E W A W A R D Do not miss ! B E S T T H A I F O O D 2 0 1 5

R E S T A U R A N T BanThaiw w w . b a n t h a i . i s ------

T E L : 6 9 2 - 0 5 4 T E L :

L a u g v e r 1 3 0 A L S O B E S T 2 0 0 9, 2 0 1 0, 2 0 1 1, 2 0 1 2, 2 0 1 3 a n d 2 0 1 4 “ ------“m a n y f a m o u s p e o p l e a r e r e g u l a r s h e r e ------The Reykjavík Grapevine FOOD Issue 3 — 2016 23 PULSA? PYLSA?

Servers Squared, Peaks Squared

Pylsa-Pulsa There were tion of ‘Twin Peaks’ set in a bus terminal. who cares what my tablemates thought), Hlemmur Square three of us there (Perhaps helped by Reykjavík’s former and a sehr gut bratwurst with brown Laugavegur 105 that night and main bus terminal located opposite, from mustard and sauerkraut. 105 Reykjavík all we realized which the restaurant's hotel derives its We followed that with two mains. that during our name.) Firstly, the fish of the day (2,500 ISK), an hlemmursquare.com/ lives, we had The room is airy, with little but velvet excellent arctic char with crispy-AF skin, pylsa-pulsa approached the drapes separating the restaurant from mashed potatoes and salad (people who Mon-Sun: 12 pm - 5 Icelandic restau- the lounge, and softcore pornoesque gos- leave a well-cooked piece of arctic char skin pm & 5 pm - 10 pm rant scene from samer curtains separating the restaurant uneaten should get fish-slapped off a pier many different from the front desk. On this occasion, we on general principle). Secondly, we tried What we think angles. We had shared the greater space with a large boy the thoroughly wonderful mushroom and A free-flowing worked as serv- scout troop, the current mayor and his beef burger (2,100 ISK), which was only let restaurant with ers, food truck entourage, and a live performance from down by a dull side of fries and aioli. bravura forcemeat vendors, cooks, an indie-electro band. The service was stupendous. We got and mescal managers, part- Thematically, Pylsa-Pulsa is confus- some attention from the German wizard owners, restau- ing. It is a sort-of-biergarten, but with running the show from behind the vel- Flavour rant reviewers, few communal tables, upholstered furni- vet drapes, but mostly we were managed Ger-manish restaurant pro- ture, chandeliers, gilded mirrors, elegant by a waitress who moved so fast we had moters, event cocktails, cheap tan wooden floors, and a honestly begun to speculate that we were Ambiance managers, ca- wooden sign swinging from a chain bear- dealing with twins running a relay race Community theatre terers, hoteliers, ing the restaurant’s name—both variant with the plates. And it certainly didn’t production of ‘Twin restaurant app spellings for “hot dogs” in Icelandic. It’s hurt that the bartender whipped up some Peaks’ set in a bus developers, res- hard to say what they are going for, ex- of the best cocktails I’ve tried in Reykja- terminal taurant marke- actly, but this lack of barriers, themati- vík: The Smokey Don (Grand Mariner, teers—basically cally or otherwise, didn’t intrude on the Don Julio Añejo, smoked syrup, lemon, Service everything from experience in any major way. mole bitters, 2,100 ISK) and Earth, Wind Top marks dishwasher ups. That is because the restaurant nails & Mescal (mescal, fennel, grapefruit, Needless to say, it in so many other ways. The menu is ex- lime, sugar, tiki bitters, 2,000 ISK). This Price for 2 (with we have eaten at traordinarily heavy on animal protein (and and some strong coffee counted as des- drinks) a metric fuckton heavy overall) but everything we tried was sert because we’re old bros and sweet 8-10.000 ISK of restaurants. executed with a thoughtful touch. things go straight to our hips. So I think it’s We started with the sausage tasting So that’s it. Not the most wildly in- with some au- plate (2,700 ISK). On this occasion the novative menu in the world and none of thority that we platter included a delicious merguez what I described makes a lick of sense but can state that Pylsa-Pulsa is the weirdest with a pronounced lanolin flavour, ac- with good food, good service, and good damn restaurant in Reykjavík. companied by sourdough and frisee sal- cocktails I think I’ll survive. The first thing you’ll notice is the ad, a divisive piece of duck sausage with - Ragnar Egilsson design and flow of the room. The ambi- red cabbage and a fruity sauce (which I ence is like a community theatre produc- happened to like, and I’m writing this so SHARE: gpv.is/pylsa

#109 Dill is a Nordic restaurant with its focus on Iceland, the pure nature and all the good things coming from it. Reykjavik Est. 2012

It does not matter if it’s the ingredients or the old traditions, we try to hold firmly on to both. FRENCH ONION SOUP Icelandic Ísbúi cheese, croûtons There are not many things that make 2.300.kr us happier than giving life to old traditions and forgotten ingredients MOULES MARINIÈRES with modern technique and our creative steamed mussels from Breiðafjörður mind as a weapon. 2.100.kr FISH OF THE DAY chef´s special 3.600.kr

Lífið er saltfiskur Hverfisgata 12 · 101 Reykjavík 101 ÓÐINSTORG REYKJAVÍK ÍSLAND SNAPSBISTRO.IS Tel. +354 552 15 22 · www.dillrestaurant.is [email protected] +354 5116677 MARS

20PM 1. Hefnendabíó / Cult Movie Night FREE ENTRY 20PM 2. Caterpillarmen, Grúska Babúska & Quest 2000ISK. 20PM 3. Hí á Húrra / Stand-up comedy 1500ISK. 20PM DJ ÓLI DÓRI 4. Babies FREE ENTRY 5. Triad #3. Shades of Reykjavík 2.000 ISK. DJ KGB 21PM 6. Open Mic Night FREE ENTRY 21PM 7. Mánudjass / Monday night jazz FREE ENTRY 20PM 8. Svavar Knútur & Sasha Bull 1500ISK. 20PM 9. Major Pink, Mosi Musik, Milkhouse & Electric Elephant 1000ISK. 21PM 10. Hits & Tits Cabaret 2500ISK. 11. DJ Styrmir Dansson 12. DJ Silja Glømmi 13. Ljóðakvöld / Poetry night 21PM 14. Mánudjass / Monday night jazz FREE ENTRY

15. Brött Brekka & Ofvitarnir & Caterpillarmen 1000ISK. 20PM 16. Tungl & Nini Wilson TICKETS TBA 21PM 17. Geimskot #1. Wonkers & guests RSVP 18. Húrra Grapevine. DJ Steindór Jónsson 19. DJ Óli Dóri 19PM 20. Skapandi sunnudagar / artist workshop 21PM 21. Mánudjass / Monday night jazz FREE ENTRY 20PM 22. Hildur, Halleluwah & H.dór 2000ISK.

23. Lily of the Valley, Johnny & The Rest & Mosi Musik 1000ISK. 25. DJ Símon FKNHNDSM 21PM 26. FM Belfast 2000ISK. DJ KGB 21PM 27. Par Ðar & Lucy in Blue 1500ISK. 21PM 28. Mánudjass / Monday night jazz 1500ISK. 29. Þroskastríðið með Hugleiki Dagssyni 1500ISK.

30. Tilbury, Snorri Helgason & Teitur Magnússon 2000ISK. 31. Improv Iceland

NAUSTIN - 101 REYKJAVIK THE 2016 DESIGNMARCH ISSUE

Kjartan Búi THE Óskarsson Bjarmar WINNERS:

Arna Sigrún Einarsdóttir HallA

of the Arts The Jury: Kjartan Páll, director at Epal design store, on behalf of design retailers in Reykjavík Sindri Páll Sigurðsson, Product designer, Ingi Rafn Sigurðsson, director at panel director on behalf of Grapevine Reykjavikcornerstore.com, on behalf of Ólöf Rut, Product designer and project design retailers in Reykjavík manager, panel director on behalf of the Anna Clausen, stylist on behalf of the Icelandic Design Centre Iceland Academy of the Arts. Tomas Pausz, Designer and adjunct Erna Bergmann, fashion designer and a lecturer, on behalf of the Iceland Academy stylist, on behalf of Grapevine. 2 THE REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE DESIGN MARCH SPECIAL ALL NEW From mind-reading clothes to redesigning government, innovation is the theme at EVERY- DesignTalks If it wasn’t for design, you’d be naked right now, sitting outdoors, on a patch of raw ground. You wouldn’t have an iPhone to call for a ride, and even if you did, the person on the other end wouldn’t have a car to pick you up (they’d be naked and sitting outdoors too). You wouldn’t even have constructed a shelter from whale bones and moss. It would suck. By John Rogers THING From what we wear to the spaces products. Design can and should TALKDESIGNS: we inhabit to the communication contribute to the larger conversa- devices we use, design is omni- tion forming—and informing—the Hlín Helga guides present. With this in mind, Reyk- future.” javík’s annual DesignMarch festi- us through the val emphasises the importance of Exploration, collabora- 2016 DesignTalks design. From open studios to new tion, development product launches, exhibitions, and programme debates among design thinkers, DesignMarch aims to express Ice- This process of rethinking also in- Hlín Helga: Only a few of our guests, landic design to the industry and volves a deep examination of what or perhaps even none, would go the public alike. the discipline of design can be, and around claiming they were innova- A key component of this mis- what more it has to offer. tive designers, waving a flag and sion is DesignTalks—a day of semi- “Speaking about new ways of saying: “I stand for innovation!” But nars, debates and discussions that approaching things doesn’t just there’s something underlying both bring together various creatives, mean new technology,” says Hlín. their thinking and their doing that buyers, and a melee of interested “There is an increasing interest ventures into new territories. Also, folk, from enthusiasts to govern- in social innovation. There’s a they’re talking about things they’ve ment officials, to talk over the is- momentum in collaboration—ur- actually done—projects that have sues of the moment. ban planning, process design— been implemented. It’s not just be- dreams and desires even—all going ing crazy, creative and speculative— Show and tell through design as a medium. And I these are projects where the car has think people are increasingly open been driven home. We’re talking to that exploration.” about everything from designing “One of the main goals of Design- The online world has also clothes that read the environment Talks is to reach out to people and birthed a new frontier, with de- around us to redesigning govern- show them how design affects signers looking past how a website ment. There’s a wide spectrum in their own lives,” says Hlín Helga, looks, to whether the interface their practises. the curator and moderator of the feels intuitive to use. “We have so day. “It acts as inspiration for the many companies right now—Face- industry, sure; but it’s also this book, Airbnb, Uber, and of course show-and-tell about what we do Apple—that use systems,” explains and what we’re capable of. Design Hlín Helga. “They’re technology- is often about collaboration, so it’s based, tapping into desires, needs essential that people realise that and behaviours to improve life, we’re here and know what we can and evolving with people. These do—and that people maybe take companies are directly based on Studio Swine is an Anglo-Japanese Maria Lisogorskaya of Assemble will design more seriously.” design thinking. Design is embed- couple who work around the world, flesh out for us what their process is Designers’ work includes re- ded within the concept, and it's not running research lab design. They like. The group is interested in bridg- sponding to the emergence of new just a skin applied to make things look at ways of using design as a tool, ing the gap between the public and materials, new technological ca- pretty.” but in unexpected ways. They’re in- the decision-makers in urban plan- pabilities, and fluctuating societal “So, designers are impacting terested in localising systems in a glo- ning. They’re interested in talking tides; sating individuals’ changing our everyday lives in more ways balised world, and in themes like sus- to people in less well-off neighbour- needs and desires; and catering to than ever before,” she finishes. tainability. For example, they went hoods about how to revive a partic- the mores of the industry itself. “We’re rethinking and reinvent- out into the ocean to collect plastic ular street or area. They use those “Design is always evolving,” ing everything—asking, 'We have to use as a material. Their work is in dreams as a resource… but they’re says Hlín Helga. “Everything is access to all this technology—now the spirit of asking new questions, or very concerned with the design changing, really, in society. In cit- what else can design do?’” turning things upside down. methodology of action, and doing ies, countries, and the whole conti- things. Maria’s talk is on “learning by nent of Europe, we can see chang- Lauren Bowker believes technology making”—very inspiring. ing demographics, with people is magic. And just by stating that, moving between countries, and she’s putting technology in a differ- governments struggling to pro- ent light. She’s doing research and vide everything for everybody. We working with scientists in different need a lot of rethinking. Design fields, working for Airbus, Formula COLUMNAR has been exploring that space—not One, big clients like that, who are only because things are changing, interested in new materials that can The typeface used for headlines in this issue is a new but also because fundamental sys- read data from their surroundings. Icelandic typeface. Called Columnar, it is designed by tems are broken and uncertainty She’s working on textiles that can Elsa Jónsdóttir in collaboration with Björn Loki Björns- is increasing. Also, there’s a louder read brainwaves. She’s called The son. voice about sustainability now. It Fashion Witch, which should give doesn’t make sense for product de- you some idea. signers just to think about tangible Tom Loosemore was responsible for the gov.uk project—a very large-scale dig- ital transformation of something very stale. This government website changes the interaction that people have with information—and they can get in touch Your type work is unquestionably on with real people, behind the system. It’s design that radically changes thet way the “expressive” side of things. Do in which government and power structures communicate with the public and you see your typefaces viscerally, with individuals, which is innovative in spirit. that is, do they carry a strong mean- Jonathan ing, and do you ever feel Maria Giudice works on experience that they’re being used design at Facebook. Before that, she “wrong”? had her own startup experience de- I see the whole of cul- sign company in Silicon Valley, so she barnbrook ture, civilisation and hu- has experience from both cultures. man history when I look She posits theories on “leadership by By Sveinbjörn Pálsson favour of large projects, but that was at a piece of historical or contempo- design,” saying that design is perhaps never the path for me. rary lettering. I understand the pa- forming a new generation of leaders. Jonathan Barnbrook is a veteran rameters that made the lettering look She called this generation DEOs— London-based designer, creating nu- As a person who has sold typefaces like it does. How language was at the Design Executive Officers. She says merous iconic typefaces such as Pri- for over two decades, do you see time, and how that can be used in re- these are people who are creative, ori and Mason. Over his long career, some ebbs and flows of fashion in vi- lation to now. but analytical—they get shit done. he’s worked with everyone from the sual language? Occupy group to the Sydney Bien- I honestly don’t follow visual trends You’re coming to Iceland to talk, Jonathan Barnbrook is interesting nale and David Bowie. We caught up that much, but I have noticed that what’s the thesis? because of his collaboration with Da- with him ahead of his appearance at when I first started in the late 1980s I hope to motivate a few Icelandic vid Bowie, of course, but he’s also an DesignTalks. there was a love of "vernacular" and designers by saying that they don’t example of someone designers can Your design seems to inhibit a world "naïve" fonts. Vernacular in that the have to just take the corporate route relate to—he’s a graphic designer of its own, with a distinctive aes- fonts were made of people’s imme- to making a living. I’m also sure that working with and for different types thetic that has evolved throughout diate visual environment. Naïve in people will be curious about what it of highly creative people. He has a the years, but carries an unbroken that young designers were suddenly was like working so closely with Da- clear voice—but he’s also worked visual thread. Is this willful on your allowed access to the previously vid Bowie, so I’ll talk about that too. with groups like Occupy. There’s part? Are you aiming for a consis- "professional" area of design. Later something very interesting in that, as tency? there was a move towards typefaces What was working with Bowie like? a profile. To ask: “How do you nur- that would work for everything, i.e. What type of input did he have? ture your creative spirit across these would have all of the weights, char- What amazed me was how respect- different areas?” acters you would need for multina- ful and funny he was. He always tional work. Now there seems to be had time for me. I remember going a trend for a bit of naïve simplicity in to New York, saying if we needed to the drawings. I find that fonts have meet then we could. I said I was with similar cycles to fashion—what’s hap- my mother, and so when we turned pening is often a direct subversion of up at the hotel there were flowers what went before, and that trend will for her, and a present from Iman. He come around again a few years later. also invited me to his rehearsals, and asked what songs I would like him to play for me. I I have had no actual plan but there think he was like are certain interests which reoccur that with a lot of in my work. I am astounded at the people he knew. beauty of some typography, how it He didn’t need to seems to both be an expression of the do all that. I miss human spirit, and to directly express his presence in Finally, Marco Steinberg will also be here—he’s an architect but he’s focussed political or social ideologies. I have my life. on helping leaders and government innovate. He’s from Finland and he’ll be also had a ‘failure’ to keep my mouth moderating the day with me, then hosting an expert session on design and shut—I‘m sure I could be a much rich- government, with some of the others. We also have some local voices in ac- er designer if I had simply produced What’s popular from your catalog now? claimed illustrator and product designer Katrín Ólína, and Dr. Þorvaldur In- nice work and then got some big cor- My most popular font by far is Bour- gvarsson from the Össur prosthetic limbs company. porate jobs and taken the money. But geois. It outsells everything else by a I could always see the implications considerable margin. I never expect- of doing a job for a company I didn’t ed that, but I’m happy about it be- You can read a longer version agree with. A lot of designers conve- cause it wasn’t an easy font to create. of this interview at: To find out more, and buy tickets, visit designtalks.honnunarmars.is. niently ignore these implications in gpv.is/barnbrook

Fiskislóð

Hólmaslóð

óð Fiskisl

been working closely with German collection to celebrate their 10th anni- Helga Ósk has worked extensively with Grandagarður porcelain manufacturer Kahla. Student versary. Country charm, sustainability traditional wireframes in her jewelry, projects will be on display at Kokka, and staying power are, as always, making the sawblades both a logical Rastarg. where Kahla products are available for hallmarks of the label’s design and next step and a contradiction. purchase. production process. 7 F "Skörin," Handverk og hönnun,

Reykjavik Maritime Museum, Aðalstræti 10 Mýrargata Hornsílið, Grandagarði 8 „Handled II“ black red white Willow Project Kristín Sigfríður Garðarsdóttir and

An investigation into one of Iceland’s Pekka Tapio Pyykönen show their Geirsgata newly gained raw materials, the willow work at Handled II. Pekka will display Visit Eldheimar museum and the West- tree, by final-year students in product clothing hooks for walls made from man Islands design at the Iceland Academy of the high quality steel and Kristín displays Grófin Tryggvagata Arts. Opening: Thursday 10 March, various porcelain pieces. Pekka and Garðastræti Daytour 12.03. Price/verð 24.900 ISK. Hafnarstr. 17:00. Kristin will be present and introduce Kalkofnsv. For booking and additional informa- 3 their work personally on Friday 11 Túngata Aðalstr. Austurstr. tion, kindly contact eldheimar@ G Sölvhólsgata Sæbraut Fiskislóð 75 March, 16:00-18:00. vestmannaeyjar.is In the Corner of Bankastræti and Hlín Reykdal Ingólfsstræti Lindargata Skúlagata Garðastræti Lækjargata 8 Bankastræti Visit Eldheimar, the new volcano Vonarstræti Hlín Reykdal will open her new store Pósthússtr. Uproot / Take root? Reykjavik City Hall Suðurgata museum in Vestmannaeyjar and win- at Fiskislóð 75 with much hullabaloo, ner of the Icelandic Design Award 2015. Showroom Reykjavík A/W 2016-17 Lækjargata Hver Landscape planning students from as well as presenting her new line of ﬁsgata Tjarnargata Klapparstígur The tour includes return flights with the Agricultural University of Iceland jewelry. Expect a celebratory air and Participants: Laugavegur

Eagleair from Reykjavík, guided tour, Þingholtsstr. employ as their medium a variety of some light refreshments. Anita Hirlekar, Another-Creation, Ingólfsstr. Vatnsstígur light lunch at Einsi Kaldi & entrance to recycled plastics which are normally Eygló, Helicopter, Kyrja, Magnea, Milla Bjargarst. 4 Laufásvegur the museum. used to reduce the weight of concrete. Snorrason, Myrka Grettisgata Hver ﬁ What is ordinarily hidden in everyday Steinunn Studio, Grandagarði 17 Skólavörðust. Njálsgata sgata Fríkirkjuvegur 9 Týsg. Hildur & Hildur’s secret journey 15 / 15 Skothúsvegur life takes visible and symbolic form as Lokastígur Bergstaðastr. 11.03. 15:00-17:00 Kirsuberjatréð, Vesturgötu 4 Grundarst. a floating tree with its life-giving roots Fashion designer Steinunn Sigurd Þórsgata Frakkastígur Weather: Part I Hringbraut Bjarnarst. Miðbær Reykjavíkur on display. Óðinsgata looks at what number 15 means and Kárastígur Laugavegur Weather affects what people need and Barónsstígur Architects at Large Hildur Steinþórs- what it has left behind both visually Nönnugata Baldursgata Vitastígur Urðarst. Bergþórugata what people need affects what they Sóleyjargata dóttir and Hildur Gunnlaugsdóttir and creatively. The path to the number Fjólugata GRANDI Njálsgata Hlemmur make. A research based exhibition Grettisgata invite you on a special trip around 15 has not been without conflict, the Suðurgata Bragagata NjarðargataFreyjugata process changes and new chapters by Auður Inez Sellgren, Elsa Dagný Sjafnargata Laugavegur central Reykjavik’s hidden and forgot- Eiríksgata 1 Fjölnisvegur emerge. In this installation the media Ásgeirsdóttir and Niki Jiao about how ten spaces. One-time-only experience, Sjávarklasinn, Grandagarði 16 Bergstaðastræti weather shapes living conditions of Sæmundargata maximum number of participants is 25. Mæna 2016 used are clothing, textile, fashion, art Laufásvegur Skarph.gata different communities. Sturlugata Smáragata Karlagata Brautarholt and photos. Mímisvegur Kindly register at hildurgunnlaugs@ Egilsgata Mæna is a yearly magazine about Barónsstígur Vífilsgata gmail.com Leifsgata design in Iceland published by the 5 M Rauðarárstígur students in the program in Visual ÞINGHOLT Þverholt Architecture Walks Omnom HQ, Hólmaslóð 4 Weaving DNA is a collaborative work over the thin ice, placing each paw Communication in the department of Omnom Land – From design to bean Snorrabraut The Association of Icelandic Architects 10 by Icelandic product designer Hanna precisely and deliberately. Nanook has Design and Architecture. to bar introduces walks around interest- The Culture House, Hverfisgötu 15 Dís Whitehead and Scottish textile fragile lines that reveal the tension in ing houses in Reykjavik. A unique 1 An exhibition showcasing the evolu- Primitiva – Talismans designer Claire Anderson. The exhibit every step. opportunity to get some insights into tion of Omnom Chocolate, from design features Reykjavík-inspired color com- Sjávarklasinn, Grandagarði 16 Primitiva by Katrín Ólína Pétursdót- the architecture of houses that are not to bean to bar. The design development binations hidden within traditional Transition tir is is a collection of 40 bronze-cast, usually open to the public. Only one from concept to product and the bean Scottish textile patterns, which the Second-year graphic design students at 3D-printed talismans that communi- tour will be taken around each of the to bar process will be on display, with designers created in collaboration with the Iceland Academy of the Arts trade cate philosophical ideas and ancient 18 houses. Kindly register at arkigongur@ tasting and opportunity to customise Knockando Woolmill. philosophical musings on the true wisdom in a unique way. Aurum, Bankastræti 4 gmail.com your own unique bar (in limited meaning of “transition,” and display 14 The way home amounts). 10 The Central Bank of Iceland, the visual fruits of their labour. Reykjavík Letterpress, Lindargötu The Japanese designer RUMI visits Friday 11 March, 13:00. Kaffitár, The Culture House, Hver- 50, bakhúsi 1 fisgötu 15 Iceland for the first time and shows a Guided by Ólafur Sigurðsson and KVOS Hand lettering your message and print- table lamp in the shape of a four-legged Guðmundur Kr. Guðmundsson. The Ocean Cluster, Grandagarði 16 Ceramics design on stamps ing away! FÍT Awards 2016 – Graphic design in creature who is looking for the way The Supreme Court of Iceland, 6 Iceland Post will participate in Iceland A two-day closed hand lettering and home and the street lamp on the tail Friday, 11 March, 15:00. Reykjavik Art Museum, Tryg- DesignMarch for the fifth year in a row, letterpress workshop organized in lights its way. Guided by Studio Granda The Association of Graphic Designers gvagötu 14 this time presenting enlargements of conjunction with Ladyfingers Let- 18 Reykjavík City Hall, Saturday 12 hosts the 16th annual Graphic Design RE 7 stamps issued in the “Icelandic Con- terpress of Colorado. The workshop March, 13:00. Guided by Studio Granda Awards. Icelandic graphic designers temporary Design” series, dedicated Aurum, Bankastræti 4 Designers from a wide variety of will switch to an open house format Búseti (a co-operative building asso- and illustrators submit their best to ceramics. Four stamps will be pre- Aurum works with Walk Together backgrounds display their newest in the afternoon of the second day 12 ciation), Sunday 13 March, 13:00. works from 2015 and a panel of judges sented, along with the ceramics shown wares at Reykjavik Art Museum. Dögg March, where visitors will get the op- For several years running, the Walk Guided by Sigríður Ólafsdóttir at chooses the ones they find outstand- on the stamps. Design shows her current line Roots, portunity to watch participants write, Together breast cancer research fund Búseti ing. The results will be announced at Hrafnkell Birgisson exhibits Tools draw and print. Open house Saturday has collaborated with designers of all Harpa, Sunday 13 March, 11:00. the opening ceremony of the exhibi- You Light table lamps and HAF Studio 12 March,12:00–16:00 disciplines. This year, Guðbjörg of Au- Guided by Sigurður Einarsson, Bat- tion. introduces a new stool and box, while rum jewelry has designed a tricolored teríið 15 Kjartan Oskarsson Studio shows the silver unisex half-bracelet adorned 1 Dance Atelier by Skúlagata, en- HALO Mirror. Design by Gróa have with a simple friendship knot. All pro- The Ocean Cluster, Grandagarði 16 trance on Hverfísgata The art of graphic storytelling a new chair, Into The Blue, as well ceeds go to breast cancer research. A MAGNEA AW16 as new lighting, Wooly, while White Kjarvalsstaðir Remember that time in school that 18 Cubes design studio has some innova- MAGNEA presents a new collection Kids dig playgrounds you were told, “Stop doodling and pay Aurum, Bankastræti 4 tive lights of their own. A prototype and offers guests a unique experience attention!”? But what if it can actually Chemical compound The Federation of Icelandic Land- of Jóhann “Nói” Ingimarsson’s chair at the Dance Atelier. The new collection help you retain more? Graphic Story- scape Architects will host a seminar Hófur is also on display. carries on where MAGNEA’s previ- The Textiles department of the Reyk- telling by Nikki Kurt creates mindful discussion of the importance of good ous work left off, introducing fresh javik School of Visual Arts will display marks that express the emotional playground design for preschools, and 6 10 perspectives on knitting and Icelandic the results of its students’ close coop- power of words. what the future holds for their place Reykjavik Art Museum, Tryg- The Culture House, Hverfisgötu 15 wool, and juxtaposing her materials to eration with Aurum and Textílprentun Inner garden, human interior in the Icelandic cityscape. Opening 1 gvagötu 14 create non-traditional combinations. Íslands, where the possibilities inher- of the exhibition will take place after The Ocean Cluster, Grandagarði 16 Icelandic furniture and design Inner garden, human interior by Signe The collection features patterns de- ent in the relationship, interplay and the seminar. Seminar friday 11 March, Places of Origin – Polish graphic design Icelandic furniture manufacturers Emdal are woven and knitted artworks signed by fashion designer, and artist fusion of textiles with jewelry were 17:00. in context exhibit inventive new items currently that can be placed in a room to divide Laufey Jónsdóttir. thoroughly explored. it as a soft wall. The shape is a contem- B Today most graphic design is created in production, shedding light on a field 16 19 porary edition of the classic tapestry Loft Hostel, Bankastræti 7 with the click of a mouse—a designer where design and quality craftsman- Stöðlakot, Bókhlöðustíg 6 Skólavörðustíg 12 that was high fashion for kings and Sustainordic – Nordic sustainable can be anywhere in the world. Yet ship go hand in hand. For years, Collections Or Type x 66°North queens during 16th century Europe for production & consumption many designs and illustrations stem designers and manufacturers have communicating cultural value through Icelandic and Finnish designers take 66°NORTH, in collaboration with from and remain rooted in their places collaborated to bring about the best SUSTAINORDIC is a Nordic network symbolic textile images. over Stöðlakot, one of the oldest stone Or Type, will present their official of origin. The Places of Origin exhibi- possible results, and this exhibition which evolves around sustainable cottages in Reykjavik. At Stöðlakot you DesignMarch beanie, as well as a new tion puts Polish graphic design in a seeks to present their latest successes production and consumption. Meet the 10 will also find a tiny little shop with our typeface specially designed by Or Type cultural and geographical context. to the general public. collaborating partners, listen to talks The Culture House, Hverfisgötu 15 designs. for 66°NORTH at an opening on Friday Translations on trends and ongoing Nordic projects 1 6 Participants: Ragnheiður Ösp, 11 March, at 17:00-19:00. Guðmundur within the field and discuss future sce- The Ocean Cluster, Grandagarði 16 Reykjavik Art Museum, Tryg- Contemporary design projects by To- IHANNA HOME, ANNA ÞÓRUNN, and Mads from Or Type will be there, narios. Friday 11 March, 9:30-12:00. Wights / supernatural spirits gvagötu 14 mas Pausz & Gardar Eyjólfsson enter a Reykjavík Raincoats, Hring eftir as will some light liquid refreshments. Industrial – Live workspace dialogue with pieces from the Points of hring, MARÝ, Arc-Tic Watches og C A collective exhibition of the work of View exhibition at The Culture House. Katariina Guthwert. 20 DesignWalk 36 artists on “protective spirits,” or The Icelandic Goldsmith Associa- This mirroring between design and Fóa, Laugavegi 2 Departure from the Pink Iceland supernatural beings, which each artist tion presents an exhibition of their a spectrum of artistic forms from Memorines Office on Hverfisgata 39 has interpreted in his own fashion. In members’ latest works. The theme of archive drawings to photography Icelandic mythology, such spirits can the exhibition speaks to the inherent Memorines is an exhibition of products This informative yet informal walking enlightens deep trends in Icelandic take both hostile and benign forms, duality of the goldsmith’s profes- that the product designer Ninna Þóra- tour of downtown Reykjavik focuses culture, such as the mapping of nature protective or destructive, and tales sion, in which he is either a designer rinsdóttir and ICD have been working on design, architecture and the general and the creativity emerging from of both have formed a rich Icelandic or a manufacturer. The designer will on for past three years. Ninna’s quirky history of the city and its settlement. limited resources. tradition through the centuries. display his latest wares, whereas the illustrations of Icelandic culture and The tour, which will take around 2-3 manufacturer will set up a smithy and nature have been transformed on to hours, is scheduled for noon on March 11 work throughout the exhibition. Seeing everyday objects such as tea towels, 12 and 13. Drink included. Private tours Húrra Reykjavík Hverfisgötu 50 is believing. note books and postcards. outside the scheduled hours available Sturla Aqua on request. 7 Sturla Aqua is the second leg of Siggi 21 Odds’ collaboration with local hip- Gotta, Laugavegi 7 D Kraum hop outfit Sturla Atlas. It features Demba Þjóðminjasafnið Kraum will play host to a half-dozen photographs of band members by 17 Conference on exhibit design designers, all with recent works on dis- Unconventional clothing made from play, among them ceramicist Kristbjörg Kjartan Hreinsson, Sturla Aqua-related Hverfisgötu 71A waterproof shearling and waxy materi- Brynhildur Pálsdóttir and Magnea Guðmundsdóttir and goldsmith Þor- wearable merch and design by Siggi Still als, specially designed for Icelandic Guðmundsdóttir talk about designing bergur Halldórsson, who will unveil his Odds and Gabríel B. Bachmann. All Fashion designer Sif Baldursdóttir and conditions. Live music and show at the the exhibition What’s So Great About new line Holtasóley. Greenland’s Inuk elements are attempts to expand the artist Laufey Jónsdóttir present their opening with lights refreshments. That? 100 Years of Women at Work Design will also be there, as will indoor idea of what music publication can be collaborative work. The exhibition at the National Museum of Iceland. architect Agnar “Agzilla” Agnarsson in the year 2016. features clothing design sketches by 22 Thomas Pausz on designing the exhibi- with his new line and its innovative use Jónsdóttir of Baldursdóttir’s S/S 2016 Spark Design Space, Klapparstíg 33 tion Angles at the Culture House on 12 of old wool sweaters. Artist / graphic collection for her clothing line Kyrja, 1+1+1 Hverfisgata. Margrét Kristín Gunnars- NORR11 Hverfisgötu 18a designer Kristjana S Williams will also which was featured in the Capsule 1+1+1 is an experimental collaboration dóttir ondesigning the exhibition at the Greykjavik have work on display, as will artist trade show in Paris last October between designers from three Nordic Eldheimar Volcano Museum, winner of Isobel Grad, who has new textiles Siggi Odds, in collaboration with countries: Hugdetta from Iceland, Pe- the Icelandic Design Award 2015. 18 developed under the pseudonym Fálki Reykjavik Sign Painters and NORR11, tra Lilja from Sweden and Aalto+Aalto Aurum, Bankastræti 4 Design. will unveil an outdoor piece in the cul- from Finland. The project examines Saturday 12 March, 14:00–16:00 Nanook “Better see eyes than an eye” de-sac next to NORR11 at Hverfisgata and re-imagines objects by having 2 7 18a. Siggi Odds’s Greykjavik exhibition Farmers & Friends, Hólmaslóð 2 Jewellery designer Guðbjörg Kr. each studio design an object consist- E Erling gullsmiður Aðalstræti 10 will open simultaneously in NORR11. Ingvarsdóttir presents her latest ing of three distinct parts and then Farmers market for 10 years – Past Helga Ósk Opening 10 March, at 17:30. Kokka, Laugavegi 47 present future work Nanook. Delicate and light but mixing the parts up into unpredictable Ceramics in Kokka Goldsmith Helga Ósk presents a new 13 strong, inspired by the Greenlandic combinations. Farmers Market presents new and The Ceramics department of the line of sawblade-based jewelry and an Hverfisgallerí, Hverfisgötu 4 polar bears’ eyes and paws, it evokes forthcoming wares from their 2016 23 Reykjavik School of Visual Arts has accompanying photography collection. Weaving DNA, hiding colour the movement of the bear as she pads 39 46 Lækningaminjasafn Íslands, Nes- Arion banki, Borgartúni 19 tröð, Seltjarnarnesi Let’s sketch together Subject Saturday 12 March, 14:00-16:00 Design- Material, subject matter, material ers will be present and everyone is Fiskislóð worth: how does poorly utilized mate- welcome to join. Light refreshments rial gain worth and become a desirable will be served. Hólmaslóð end product? Subject attempts to answer this question with examples of 47 products made from castoff material Geislar hönnunarhús ehf., Bolholti 4 that would otherwise have gone to Geislar - Ode to Light Fiskislóð waste. Landscape architect Dagný Geislar presents gift products and Bjarnadóttir of DLD has worked on a model toys, including Ode to light, Grandagarður multitude of projects with eco-friendly an exhibition of new candle holders. emphases, ranging from city planning There will also be purses made from Rastarg. to natural environments and product plywood and leather, and gift products. design.

40 Oddson Ho(s)tel, Hringbraut 21

Mýrargata ODDSSON by Döðlur

The Reykjavik-based design studio Döðlur is responsible for the overall Geirsgata look of the soon to be opened ho(s)tel ODDSSON. The iconoclastic style of Döðlur was a perfect fit for ODDSSON Grófin

Tryggvagata and its concept – high and low culture. Garðastræti Hafnarstr. Check out the place before it opens Kalkofnsv. as well as the eclectic aesthetic and Túngata Aðalstr. Austurstr. Sölvh Sæbraut custom pieces. Saturday, 12 March, ólsgata 13:00-17:00. Ingólfsstræti Lindargata Skúlagata Garðastræti Bankastræti 48 Vonarstræti Pósthússtr. 41 Frumbjörg house (Sjálfsbjörg) Suðurgata Lækjargata Hver Grýtan, Keilugranda 1, 1st floor Hátúni 12 ﬁsga Tjarnargata Klapparstígur The Role of the Whole? Össur and Frumbjörg, Laugavegur ta Designer Halla Hákonardóttir will The Frumbjörg center for innovation Þingholtsstr.Ingólfsstr. Vatnsstígur unveil her new clothing line, Halla: and orthopaedics manufacturer Össur

Bjargarst. Laufásvegur Zero, which sprang from her master’s present the results of a series of collab- Gr Hver ettisgata ﬁ thesis project at The Swedish School orative projects aimed at finding smart Skólavörðust. Njálsgat sgata Fríkirkjuvegur Týsg. Skothúsvegur of Textiles. The name of the collection solutions. One possible definition of Lokastígur a Bergstaðastr. Grundarst. speaks to its frugal nature, with no a product is a pressing and unsolved Þórsgata rst. Frakkastígur Hringbraut Bjarna Óðinsgata material going to waste. problem solved in a technical manner. stígur Laugavegur Kára Barónsstígur

Nönnugata Baldursgata 42 49 Vitastígur Urðarst. Bergþórugata Sóleyjargata

Fjólugata Njálsgata Hlemmur Eiðistorgi Snúran, Síðumúla 21 Grettisgata Suðurgata Synodic tropic By hand Bragagata NjarðargataFreyjugata Sjafnargata Laugavegur

Eiríksgata Fjölnisvegur Fashion and textile designer Tanja Snúran hosts an exhibition of the latest

Bergstaðastræ Sæmundargata Levý’s latest line takes the form of an works by Finnsdóttir, Further North Laufásvegu Skarph.gata

Sturlugata Smáraga Karlagata Brautarholt installation. Its patterns and shapes and Pastelpaper. The labels specialize Mímisvegur Egilsgata Barónsstígur Vífilsgata are inspired by an escape from the in products for the home. Finnsdóttir’s Leifsgata ta r ti M reality of Iceland’s dark winter months Unika line will be on display, as will a Rauðarárstígur

Þverholt and aggressive birds that appear in the new line of Further North textiles de- Klapparstíg 11 |31 36 Snorrabraut sky, circling in strange patterns. veloped in collaboration with graphic Ró Skólavörðustíg 17A Baldursgötu 30 38 Further North showroom designer Arnar Fells, and new three- Have a rest on the Ró mattress, a hand- Catacomb // OrriFinn Jewels Hannesarholt, Grundarstíg 10 Saga Kakala introduces Goddesses dimensional pieces by Pastelpaper. crafted, all wool futon designed to add The cultural heritage from the Incas Interior designer, owner of the decora- that extra something that will turn any in Peru and the Maya and Aztec in tion brand Further North Auður Gná Katrín Ólína Pétursdóttir has created 50 bed into a luxurious nest or serve as an Mexico inspired Orri and Helga at Or- Ingvarsdóttir opens the doors to her a collection of five different luxury silk Syrusson Hönnunarhús, Síðumúla elegant daybed. Ró is made with love rifinn Jewels. Last summer they trav- own private home to visit and take in scarves for Saga Kakala. Her collection, 33 and affection for a simple lifestyle. eled both countries, exploring ancient the label’s new textile collection. Goddesses, is a homage to the creative From different directions ruins, temples and catacombs which energy of mythological goddesses from 24 37 We welcome everyone to attend the fired their imaginations and influenced different times and cultures. Goddess- Laugavegi 32 Núllið, Bankastræti 0 annual design exhibition at Syrusson. this new piece. es is Saga Kakala's third collection. EldhúsMars Dulkápan party A number of talented designers provide insight into the vibrant diversity Ingibjörg Ósk Þorvaldsdóttir presents Dulkápan unveils their website of Icelandic design. We welcome you her herb pot, the Vein of Life. Theodóra dulkapan.net, and throws a party to SOUTH OF HRINGBRAUT to our showroom to experience the Alfreðsdóttir presents her feldspar- celebrate the publication of their zine. wide range of innovations in furniture, hewn two-person tableware set, From Various works of literature are also on 39 lighting, home accessories and other The Ground Up, which can be stacked display. Dulkápan is an archive that Lækningaminjasafn Íslands, Nes- artistic items. into a totem. records literature, documents and pub- tröð, Seltjarnarnesi lications by artists and designers. High tide – Textile artists and designers 25 in collaboration. 51 38 þrep, Laugavegi 49 38 Epal, skeifunni 6 High tide is an exhibition in the search So. not. enough Hannesarholt, Grundarstíg 10 Endless colours of Icelandic design The collective conscience of balance between unforced flow of 43 The So By Sonja team contemplated ideas aloneness and cooperation. For Gallerí Grótta, Eiðistorgi 11, 2. hæð Epal presents the most interesting The Collective Conscience is an inter- the concept of time, its relation to High tide, a group of designers from Recess / Priests Icelandic design by a diverse group of active sound piece that enables people designers, well-known and newcomers everything and nothing. The result The Icelandic Textile Guild sought the Priests: Sturla Már Jónsson indulges to publicly speak their mind, leaving alike. Since 1975 the store has strived was the artwork "Untitled." The work cooperation of designers and artists his playful side with a series of new their thoughts in the ether. It consists to enhance understanding and respect has evolved into a prototype of a clock 32 from other innovative sectors. An in- designs made with his most favored of an old dial phone and a radio that for design in Iceland by choosing a se- showing the time in an unconventional Mengi, Óðinsgötu 2 teresting and colourful mixture awaits materials: solid wood and metal. has been modernised. The phone has lection of outstanding quality for their way. Or Type Reading room + Video hail- the visitor! Recess: Þórunn Árnadóttir displays been equipped to record and upload stores. Part of that is participating in storm (VHS) the latest additions to her “Sipp og 26 short audio messages to a web server, DesignMarch. Or typefaces have been used to convey Kiosk, Laugavegi 65 where the radio can access them and Hoj!” product line, the theme of which important and thought-provoking Photo exhibition and design bingo at play at random. is recess. Also woven in are materials 51 Kiosk messages over the last year. Snuggle up from traditional net-making. Epal, skeifunni 6 with wise words in the Or Type Read- 38 Waves: inspired by Iceland Kiosk presents a photography ing room, learn about our new font Hannesarholt, Grundarstíg 10 44 Epal will exhibit new products that are exhibition featuring new images of L15, and enjoy Video hailstorm (VHS), Hidden wood, continuation „Klöppin“ on the corner of garments from the most recent lines the result of a collaboration between six an installation by Atli Bollason where A miniaturized version of the exhibi- Hjarðarhaga and Suðurgötu of a wide variety of designers. A party Icelandic and Danish designers brought fluctuating video snowflakes are ex- tion Hidden Wood – Driftwood in Alone I sit and sew… of prodigious proportions is planned in on the occasion of Epal’s 40th anniver- amined in great detail. A collaborative design, originally on display last Fashion designer Sunna Örlygsdót- for the opening night of DesignMarch. sary to design new products inspired by piece by Or Type together with Finnish summer in Djúpavík, Strandir. Featur- tir will display her thesis work from Also expect a bingo game to match, Iceland, made from local materials that designer Sebastian Jansson will also be ing works by 12 designers together 39 the ArtEZ Institute of the Arts in the with various store products offered would appeal to the international mar- on display. with a documentary film about the Spot, Spot 2 & Spor Netherlands. The project postulates as prizes. ket. The collection is broad, ranging from how it would feel to spend a year and 33 uniqueness of the wood and the Designers Ólafur Thor Erlendsson and textiles, to furniture and accessories. ten days alone in the wilderness. Here, 27 Kaolin Keramik Gallerí, exhibition in Djúpavík. Curators: Dóra Thora Björk Schram present a furni- she seeks to recreate her imagined Mokka Kaffi, Skólavörðustíg 3a Skólavörðustíg 22 Hansen and Elísabet V. Ingvarsdóttir. ture line consisting of three stools: 52 Letterings 5 plus 4 Documentary by Skarkali / Helga Rakel SPOT, SPOT 2 and SPOR, connecting world and invites guests to join her “in Museum of Design and Applied Rafnsdóttir. the wilderness.” Tákn and Teikn is a collective com- with Icelandic nature through a speci- Arts, Garðatorgi 1 The nine ceramicists that comprise the fied GPS location point. Triad prised of eight graphic designers: Kaolin Artist Collective will design and 38 45 Kristín Þorkelsdóttir, Friðrika Geirs- create plates and bowls to set the table Hannesarholt, Grundarstíg 10 39 Nordic House Jewelery designer Helga Ragnhildur dóttir, Edda V. Sigurðardóttir, Soffía for 5 Plús 4 at the gallery. North Limited Lækningaminjasafn Íslands, Nes- Connecting Iceland Mogensen, ceramist Bjarni Viðar Árnadóttir, Kristín Edda Gylfadóttir, Sigurðsson and fashion designer Aníta North Limited is a design collective tröð, Seltjarnarnesi Exhibition and short presentations by Elsa Nielsen, Helga Gerður Gísladóttir 34 Mirroring moments Hirlekar have garnered much-deserved formed of award-winning Icelandic Swedish Material Makers, a group of and Sigríður Rún. Their interpretations Hlemmur Square, Laugavegi 105 attention of late for their various proj- designers, Guðrún Vald, Sigríður A collaborative project that merges eight artists in glass, ceramics, textile of lettering look to be as varied as the No. 10 ects. The designers share a common Hjaltdal and Þórunn Hannesdóttir. The three art forms and a variety of differ- and jewellery who have worked within women themselves. proclivity for going their own ways in Art Without Borders presents a collab- influences behind each object is mixed ing methodologies. Video art, photog- crafts since 2010, now for the first time their exploration of the outer limits of 28 orative project developed by designers with elegance and Icelandic quirkiness. raphy and weaving are combined to ex- in Iceland. their chosen fields, often with power- Anna María Design, Skólavörðustíg 3 and artists. Participants were paired North Limited focuses on classic de- pose near-invisible details. The project ful results where surfaces and textures Silver, gold and Icelandic stone based on resemblance in their work. sign with high quality production. This is a work by sisters, industrial designer 45 Four teams worked within different includes both top grade materials as Nordic House play key roles. Goldsmith Anna María Sveinbjörnsdót- and geologist Kristbjörg María Guð- fields: experience design, graphic well as the best craftsmanship possible Ceramic snacks at AALTO Bistro mundsdóttir and photographer and 52 tir specializes in jewelry that combines design, product design and fashion de- for each product. visual communication designer Ragna Through all of DesignMarch, visitors Icelandic rock with silver and gold. sign. Happenings during the exhibition Museum of Design and Applied Margrét Guðmundsdóttir. will be given the opportunity to sample Opening: Thursday 10 March, at 15:00. will be advertised on Facebook. 38 Arts, Garðatorgi 1 Hannesarholt, Grundarstíg 10 39 AALTO Bistro’s master chef Sveinn Icelandic Design Award 2015 29 Kjartansson’s most delicious morsels, Saana ja Olli Lækningaminjasafn Íslands, Nes- The winner of the Icelandic Design GK Reykjavík, Skólavörðustíg 6 served on beautiful original pieces by Saana ja Olli is a designer couple and tröð, Seltjarnarnesi Award 2015 was announced last Seb animals members of the Icelandic Association an award-winning design company The city and the forest November. During DesignMarch, we Goldsmith Edda Bergsteinsdóttir pres- of Ceramic Artists. will present the award winning project from Finland. They produce their own The aim of this Polish project is to ents her jewelry line Seb animals. The 100% hemp fabric home textile line Eldheimar Volcano Museum in the pieces are geometric animals based on draw attention to the animals living 46 Westman Islands along with other and have done design work for various in cities: birds, insects and mam- Arion banki, Borgartúni 19 organic shapes that have been simpli- international clients. At Hannesar- finalists of the jury selection and Ös- fied into powerful configurations. mals. The selected designers created From concept to concept – Marching sur, who received recognition for Best holt you will find a selection of their the nesting boxes. Their choice was toward a result Photos by Íris Stefánsdóttir. designs. Investment in Design 2015. based on their own experience and Nothing emerges fully formed. All good 30 38 reflected their concerns about the sur- things are borne of countless hours of 53 Geysir, Skólavörðustíg 7 Hannesarholt, Grundarstíg 10 rounding environment. experimentation and brainstorming. Hafnarborg, Menningar- og lista- Silfra Vein of life In some cases, there is no end result, 35 39 miðstöð Hafnarfjarðar, Strandgötu Alvara is a brand new design studio and all that remains is the conceptual 34 Bergstaðastræti 10 A Ingibjörg Ósk Þorvaldsdóttir presents Lækningaminjasafn Íslands, Nes- that combines the creative powers of Your place – Our town Sound of Iceland her herb pot, the “Vein of Life.” The tröð, Seltjarnarnesi stage, try as one might to bring it to fashion designer Elísabet Karlsdóttir pot is akin to a bag - an airbag, of Predictable civil disobedience completion, to make a viable piece or The Hafnarborg Centre of Culture and product designer Ágústa Svein- Sound of Iceland, by Hver Design, aims sorts. Vein of Life is comprised of two product. A series of sketches and other and Fine Art presents an examination sdóttir. Alvara subsists in the area at keeping the soul of Icelandic places The exhibit brings together two sections: a container for the herb itself byproducts of the creative process will of the foremost ongoing matters in where product design meets fashion, alive by recording the sound of their designers of different backgrounds: on the one hand, and a receptacle for be on display at Arion Bank’s central the downtown Hafnarfjörður area’s and the jewelry line Silfra is the stu- very breath. The intention is to collect Brynja Þóra Guðnadóttir and María water on the other, which the plant headquarters, collected from a wide development and city planning, and dio’s debut project. sound waves generated during these Sjöfn Dupuis Davíðsdóttir. Interpreta- can rely on for sustenance. Vein of Life variety of designers and architects; Maria Lisogorskaya from the architec- recordings and then recreate them tions of shapes and spaces are exam- adds beauty to its surroundings and some became finished works, others ture and design collective Assemble, visually by stamping them on furnish- ined, as are light, texture, proportion brings flavor to life. did not. winner of Turner Prize 2015, will lead ing fabrics. and contextual relationships with the environment. a workshop. Openings & Events

Tryggvagötu 14 Wednesday 18:00 KRAUM Aðalstræti 10 18:00 The Collective Conscience 09/03 Hannesarholti, Grundarstíg 10 18:00 Hidden Wood, continuation 16:00 SEB Animals Hannesarholti, Grundarstíg 10 GK Reykjavík, Skólavörðustíg 6 18:00 North Limited 16:00 Primitiva – Talismans Hannesarholti, Grundarstíg 10 Culture House, Hverfisgötu 15 18:00 Saana ja Olli 16:00 Ceramics Design on Stamps Hannesarholti, Grundarstíg 10 Culture House, Hverfisgötu 15 18:00 Vein of Life 16:00 Inner garden - human interior Hannesarholti, Grundarstíg 10 Culture House, Hverfisgötu 15 18:00 Saga Kakala introduces Goddesses 16:00 Translations Hannesarholti, Grundarstíg 10 Culture House, Hverfisgötu 15 18:00 Collections 17:00 Sound Of Iceland Stöðlakot, Bókhlöðustíg 6 Bergstaðastræti 10 A 18:00 Or Type Reading Room + Video 17:00 High tide Hailstorm (VHS) Lækningaminjasafnið, Seltjarnarnesi Mengi, Óðinsgötu 2 17:00 Spot, Spot 2 & Spor 18:00 Silfra Lækningaminjasafnið, Seltjarnarnesi Geysir, Skólavörðustíg 7 17:00 Mirroring Moments 18:00 Sturla Aqua Lækningaminjasafnið, Seltjarnarnesi Húrra Reykjavík, Hverfisgötu 50 17:00 The City and the Forest 18:00 Weather: Part I Lækningaminjasafnið, Seltjarnarnesi Kirsuberjatréð, Vesturgötu 4 17:00 Predictable Civil Disobedience 18:00 Weaving DNA, Hiding Colour Lækningaminjasafnið, Seltjarnarnesi Hverfisgallerí, Hverfisgötu 4 17:00 Subject 19:00 15/15 Lækningaminjasafnið, Seltjarnarnesi Steinunn Studio, Grandagarði 17 17:00 Chemical Compound 19:00 EldhúsMars Aurum, Bankastræti 4 Hrím Eldhús, Laugavegi 32 17:00 The Way Home 20:00 Memorines Aurum, Bankastræti 4 Fóa, Laugavegi 2 17:00 Nanook „better see eyes than an eye 21:00 Showroom Reykjavík A/W 2016/17 Aurum, Bankastræti 4 Reykjavik City Hall 17:00 Endless Colours of Icelandic Design Epal, Skeifunni 6 17:00 WAVES: inspired by Iceland Epal, Skeifunni 6 Friday The group engages in a genuine col- 17:00 Recess - Priests laboration with active participants, Gallerí Grótta, Eiðistorgi 11, 2. hæð 11/03 17:00 Your place Our town Make, Do And engaging people in something fun, Hafnarborg, Strandgötu 34 Hafnafj. functional, and with a tangible out- 17:00 Triad 9:30 Sustainordic Museum Of Design And Applied Art, come. Loft Hostel, Bankastræti 7 Garðatorgi 1 16:00 Handled II black red white Mend: The As- “Problem solving is something 18:00 Still „Skörin“, Handverk og hönnun, we’re interested in,” says Maria, “and Hverfisgötu 71A Aðalstræti 10 18:00 AURUM works with Walk Together 17:00 Further North Opið hús / Showroom each project certainly has its own Aurum, Bankastræti 4 Baldursgata 30 semble group problems. It’s not always just about 18:00 By hand 17:00 5 plus 4 making a spectacular experience for Snúran, Síðumúla 21 Kaolin Keramik Gallerí, 19:00 Connecting Iceland Skólavörðustíg 22 people to enjoy—sometimes it’s also Nordic house, Sturlugötu 5 17:00 Kids dig playgrounds employ their about giving certain people a voice 19:30 FÍT Awards 2016 – Graphic design Kjarvalsstaðir in Iceland who don’t have one, or helping on 17:00 OR Type x 66°NORTH Ocean Cluster House, Skólavörðustígur 12 something very specific. Something Grandagarði 16 17:00 The role of the whole we’re interested in how you can use 19:30 The Art of Graphic Storytelling Grýtan, Keilugranda 1, 1. hæð design skills Ocean Cluster House, 17:30 Demba what’s already there as a resource. Grandagarði 16 Gotta, Laugavegi 7 What we do is very different from 19:30 Places of Origin. Polish Graphic 17:30 SO.NOT.ENOUGH project to project.” Design in Context. 38 þrep, Laugavegi 49 to make the Ocean Cluster House, 18:00 Geislar / Ode to Light I wonder if “making things bet- Grandagarði 16 Geislar hönnunarhús ehf., Bolholt 4 ter” is a kind of informal guiding 19:30 Wights - Supernatural spirits 18:00 CATACOMB - ORRIFINN JEWELS Ocean Cluster House, principle for the group’s activities. Skólavörðustíg 17A world better Grandagarði 16 18:00 From different directions “As designers you’re taught to fix 19:30 Mæna Syrusson Hönnunarhús, Síðumúli 33 by John Rogers gling Liverpool community through things, to improve things, and to Ocean Cluster House, 20:00 Dulkápan, performance night Grandagarði 16 Loft Hostel, Bankastræti 7 creative endeavour. This involved make new things,” says Maria, “and 19:30 Transition 20:00 Farmers Market In a world where open-ended, collab- giving the neighbourhood a physical the scale at which this can be done Ocean Cluster House, Farmers & Friends, Hólmaslóð 2 Grandagarði 16 orative and cross-disciplinary cre- facelift, whilst passing on valuable can really vary.” 20:00 No. 10 ative practise is throwing up all kinds skills to locals. Hlemmur Square, Laugavegi 105 of new possibilities, the work of the “We’re interested in the social, 20:00 1+1+1 Just do something Spark, Klapparstíg 33 Saturday Assemble group seems completely in and the public,” explains Maria. tune with the moment. “We like working with people, and 12/03 This eighteen-strong London- learning from them. In our Liverpool G ++oing into a situation in which the Thursday based collective started almost ac- project, we worked with a commu- outcome is not yet determined shows 12:00 Hand Lettering Your Message and cidentally, when a group of under- nity that’s been active in the area for a willingness to view design as a liv- Printing away 10/03 LetterPress, Lindargötu 50 employed architects and designers 20 years. We were trying to use the ing, participatory, free-flowing pro- 14:00 Let’s sketch together decided to put their skills to use in skills we’ve learned as designers to cess, and has led to some unexpected Arion Banki, Borgartúni 19 9:00 DesignTalks 14:00 Conference on Exhibit Design an eye-catching series of urban inter- collaborate with them.” results—not least, the transformation Harpa National museum of Iceland ventions, such as placing a makeshift This interest in hands-on collabo- of Assemble from an ambitious hobby 15:00 Silver, Gold and Icelandic Stone 14:00 Synodic Tropic Anna María Design, Skólavörðustíg 3 cinema on the forecourt of a disused ration and “making themselves use- into a full-time job. Eiðistorg 16:00 Hlín Reykdal 17:00 Dulkápan, cozy night and poetry petrol station, or building a tempo- ful” has led Assemble to take design “The fact that we’re here as a Fiskislóð 75 reading rary house under a motorway flyover. out of the studio not in the form of company is an unexpected result 16:00 Dulkápan party Stofan Kaffihús, Vesturgötu 3 Núllið, Bankastræti 0 17:00 Photo Exhibition and Design Bingo Such works highlight the potential of a pristine object, but as a living pro- of our first project,” smiles Maria. 17:00 Ceramics in Kokka at Kiosk derelict urban spaces, reviving un- cess. There’s something refreshingly “It was something fun. We did it to Kokka, Laugavegi 47 Kiosk, Laugavegi 65 likely locations as memorable, thriv- unpretentious about how they do it. make ourselves just do something, 17:00 Helga Ósk 19:30 MAGNEA AW16 PRESENTATION Erling Gullsmiður Aðalstræti 10 Dance Atelier by Skúlagata, en- ing social spaces. “Design includes a lot of planning, and to enjoy doing it. The fact that 17:00 Ró trance on Hverfisgata Despite the grand results, Maria and thinking things through,” says we’re now a company is a massive Klapparstíg 11 17:00 Willow Project Lisogorskaya, who’ll be speaking at Maria. “It’s a word that’s used a lot, surprise.” Reykjavik Maritime museum, the DesignTalks this month, remains but the process itself been around for The group gravitates towards so- Hornsílið, Grandagarði 8 17.30 GREYKJAVÍK Sunday humble. “It all started very organi- centuries. It’s a way to make things cially minded projects, but Maria is NORR11, Hverfisgötu 18a cally,” she recalls. “We didn’t start more efficient and desirable, and to tentative when asked about whether 13/03 out to set up a collective—we just did try and improve things.” Assemble’s social practise reads as a 17:30 DesignMarch 2016 opening a few projects together. It was started form of creative activism. “Activism ceremony 13:00 Screening of the documentary film as an amateur thing. We took holi- is quite a loaded word,” she says. “We Reykjavik Art Museum, Falinn skógur Use what you have Tryggvagötu 14 Hljóðberg auditorium, Hannesarholt days or did it in our free time. We had don’t have a shared political view. 14:00 Letterings other jobs.” But there is an element of self-initi- Mokka-Kaffi, Skólavörðustígur 3a 17:30 RE 7 Much to their own surprise, As- ation, and of challenging briefs. And Reykjavik Art Museum, Working with people semble were nominated for, and ulti- we definitely try to make things bet- Tryggvagötu 14 mately won, the 2015 Turner Prize— ter.” 17:30 Icelandic furniture and design Reykjavik Art Museum, a prestigious televised art award Tryggvagötu 14 In the five years since then, Assem- in the UK. But while much live art 17:30 Industrial ble has become an in-demand studio is about performance—or, often, a Reykjavik Art Museum, that carries out all sorts of projects, performative inclusion of the audi- such as helping to regenerate a strug- ence—Assemble don’t perform at all. WHATEVER THE WEATHER...

ZO•ON is born in Iceland, and we have a passion for outdoor living. We love the feeling of being in sync with nature, of being part of something bigger than ourselves. This is reflected in how we design and create outdoor wear. WWW.ZO-ON.COM 10 THE REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE DESIGN MARCH SPECIAL

The Reykjavík ev ap ine Gr D ík es v ig ja n k y A e w

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s T Grapevine Design PRODUCT OF THE YEAR …For Best Product, Product Line, Awards 2016 Project and Fashion Design of 2015 As you may have noticed from this DesignMarch special, Icelandic design is thriving. With this in mind, the panel of our sixth annual Reykjavík Grapevine Design Awards—consisting of various art and design experts—had a great many projects to choose from this year. After much deliberation, they selected an inspiring list of fashion/product designers and project organisers who are leading the field in Icelandic design. There are many projects that richly deserve to be recognised, so after you’ve taken in the winners, also look out for the runners-up, honourable mentions and ones to watch in each of the four categories. Congratulations to everyone! By Hrefna Björg, photos by Art Runners Up Magnea Einarsdóttir x Club Monaco Product Of The Year Created by Magnea Einarsdóttir Halo Magnea, also a young designer and Central St. Mar- Created by Kjartan Óskarsson tins textile graduate, got to display her talent on an apevine Gr D international level when she was offered the chance ík es v ig ja n Kjartan’s Óskarsson’s design is such an in- properties of the halo. The lamp stands out for k to work with the Club Monaco design team. The y A e w novative take on a predictable product that it the attention to detail in its intuitive interface R panel of judges said the collaboration represented a a

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h exceeds our expectations of what a lamp can and beautiful design. The Halo has already

s cool and modern take on Icelandic heritage and used T FASHION DESIGN wool and knitwear to create modern and wearable look like. In order to adjust its brightness, the garnered a considerable amount of atten- OF THE YEAR designs. user must turn the hanging Halo. The panel tion—Kjartan was awarded the Scandinavian of judges found the interface intriguing: new, Talents á la carte award at the international but also somehow familiar. They said the Maison & Objet sale show, as well as being the interesting use of natural materials piqued Launch Pad winner at Wanted Design NYC Looking For- their curiosity and expressed the “magical” 2015. Fashion Design Of The Year wa r d To See Geysir More in 2016 Runners Up Looking For- ward To See Created by Erna Einarsdóttir Almost Spring STAND UP / STAND OUT More in 2016 Created by Elísabet Karlsdóttir Created by Postulína This line of hanging plant pots has a nice story Geysir started off as a tourist store, located being limited by it,” the judges said, with one Elísabet Karlsdóttir’s clothing line, made mainly behind it, about longing for spring after a long 1+1+1 near the famous natural hotspot. But since of them stating: “The line is approachable, out of fur, was an entry at the 2015 REMIX com- winter; as the panel said, it “touches the soul of then, the brand has reinvented itself to be- and affordable to both downtown cool cats petition in Milano. The line was sponsored by Eg- the Icelander who’s waking up after dark win- 1+1+1 is an international collaboration of Hugdetta come one of Reykjavík’s leading design stores. and mature fashionistas wanting to look the gert Feldskeri and showcased at his store at a 2015 ter months.” Postúlina is Guðbjörg Káradóttir & (Róshildur Jónsdóttir and Snæbjörn Þór Stefáns- Geysir’s first fashion line was conceived with part in the great outdoors.” The clothing is in- DesignMarch event. Elísabet has begun working Ólöf Jakobína Erludóttir, and their products are son), Finland’s Aalto+Aalto, and Petra Lilja from the help of designer Erna Einarsdóttir, a tex- spired by Icelandic heritage, as can be seen in with product designer Ágústa Sveinsdóttir in a col- beautifully handcrafted. Their choices in colour, Sweden. Each designer creates an object consisting tile graduate from Central St. Martins. Her the beautiful vintage tone of their Look Book. laboration called ALVARA to design an accessory materials and textures compliment the plants in of three modular parts, which are then combined to collection is based on products that are wear- Erna has played a large role in helping Geysir line using leather and fur. It’ll be exciting to see what a simple, elegant way—and it’s a product meant create unpredictable results. Their products cannot able and distinctly high-quality. “The collec- become what it is today and is lucky to have will come out of their collaboration. to last for years. be purchased yet, but a new product will be on show tion uses wool and knit in a smart way without such a professional brand behind her designs. Their design can be bought at www.postulina.is (and for sale) at DesignMarch.

Runners Up

pevin Gra e D rapevine k e G De ví si ík s a g v ig j n ja n Bernhöftsbaazar k A k y A e w y e w R a R a

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s T Þórey Björk Halldórsdóttir PROJECT PRODUCT LINE OF THE YEAR OF THE YEAR 2014 “A usually forgotten and pretty barren patch 2014 of the city center came alive,” said our panel of Laufey and Þórey’s summer market. Unusual items were sold in beautifully designed booths inspired by old Icelandic turf buildings. The market was funded by the City of Reykjavík and for each market day there was a different theme: “straight from grandma,” music, or plants, for example. It was a wonderful way to trade, sell or just mingle in the sun, and will hopefully continue in the summer of 2016.

Looking For- ward To See Product Line Of The Year More in 2016 Petits Volcans We Live Here Created by IIIF Elina Aalto, Marika Tesolin and Hlín Helga Guðlaugsdóttir are the curators of the project “We Live Here.” The project’s purpose is Petits Volcans is a glass collection by IIIF IIIF aim to capture the different stages of a to combine an exhibition and event space in an (Agla Stefánsdóttir, Sigrún Halla Unnarsdót- volcano in their bowls and vases. Our panel apartment decorated solely in Scandinavian tir and Thibaut Allgayer). Their product line of judges said the product line was one of the design. Everything was Scandinavian, from is a poetic reflection on the natural phenom- most exciting things seen at the 2015 Design- the food they ate, to the clothes hanging in the enon of volcanic eruptions. The designers March, stating: “It’s a rare homage to nature closet. The home is also meant for events such as collaborated with the French glass blowing that avoids kitsch altogether.” house-warming parties, dinners, brunches and center CIAV in Meisenthal to produce the The product can be requested through iiifcol- after-parties. The project explores new ways to work. The design team also created colourful [email protected] promote Nordic design on an international plat- Project Of The Year posters featuring volcano-themed artwork. form by creating an experience through the exhibition. According to the panel, “We Live Here is Jungle Bar the most powerful showcase of Icelandic design we've seen—it was one of the main attractions of Runners Up Looking For- Stockholm Design Week.” Created by Búi Aðalsteinsson and Stefán Thoroddsen Lestrahestar ward To See Búi and Stefán, founders of Crowbar Protein, as well as launching a Kickstarter campaign. Special created the Jungle Bar in hopes of promoting The project is bold and impressive with excel- Created by Katrín Ólína More in 2016 edible insects in the western world. Jungle lent branding, largely thanks to Frosti Gnarr, Mention Bar is an insect-powered nutrition bar made the company’s art director. Their product Lestrarhestar (“Reading horses”) is a collection from chocolate, cranberries and crickets. Búi was banned in Iceland for legal reasons, de- of small bookshelves designed to encourage Andrea Maack had been researching insects and their po- spite having been tested as perfectly safe. A people to read, and to make it more fun. Katrín HA tential in the food industry, and learned that member of the panel said: “This is a powerful Ólína used parts from an old machine from Andrea Maack is a visual artist, and founder of they were a sustainable, nutritious and tasty reflection of the future of sustainable food Hofsós, originally meant for bending pipes, in the Andrea Maack fragrance brand. In the pro- Our panel of judges wanted to specially nomi- food source. Búi and Stefán participated in sources. #LEGALIZEIT.” the production. She focused on reusing existing cess of designing a scent she explores Icelandic nate HA design magazine—run by Arnar Fells Startup Reykjavík, an investment program, materials, giving old machinery a new life. Our nature, trying to capture the feeling of coming (editor), Sigga Maack, Elísabet Ingvarsdóttir and panel said: “This product puts Iceland’s literary to Iceland for the first time. Her perfumes are María Kristín (editorial board), and Hrefna Sig- heritage on a pedestal in a modern way.” unisex, because she says that scents have more urðardóttir (graphic designer)—which special- it’s a milestone in the Icelandic design scene as Available at Spark Design Space on Klap- to do with personalities than gender. While mak- izes in Icelandic design and architecture. The the first magazine of its kind. Our panel said: Subscribe to the magazine at www.hadesign- parstígur 33 ing her most recent scents, “Soft Tension” and publication is not only admirable for its fascinat- “Everything from the layouts to the graphics and mag.is or find it in most Icelandic bookstores “Dual”, she was inspired by the smell of her skin ing and beautifully laid-out content, but because the stories are exemplary.” after having been swimming and also the smell of fog. She works with perfumiers to make a high- quality product in a beautifully designed bottle. HANDMADE WITH LOVE Using only the the finest materials and craftsmanship the Reykjavik Raincoats are 100% waterproof like the fisherman’s style coats that were around in the 70’s. Our raincoats are handmade in rubberized cotton fabric with double stitched seams and welding on the inside for the perfect protection.

I WISH IT WOULD RAIN At Reykjavik Raincoats we are extremely passionate and our goal is to make the perfect raincoat that makes you wish it would rain every day just so you can wear your Reykjavik Raincoat. Our aim is to carefully construct raincoats in the highest standard and sell them with love to people who care about quality.

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FRAMNESVEGUR EIÐSGRANDI RÁNARGATA VESTURGATA GEIRSGATA SUNDABORG GRANDAVEGUR BÁRUGATA Harpa Reykjavík HRINGBRAUT ÖLDUGATA Concert KIRKJUSANDUR KLEPPSVEGUR Art Museum Hall BRÆÐRABORGARSTÍGUR 59 ÆGISGATA Main TRYGGVAGATA ÁLAGRANDI Tourist Info The SÓLVALLAGATAHÁVALLAGATA Central SÖLVHÓLSGATA

GARÐASTRÆTI Bank LAUGALÆKUR ÁSVALLAGATA HAFNARSTRÆTI SKÚLAGATASÆBRAUT TÚNGATA The DALBRAUT VATNAGARÐAR AUSTURSTRÆTI Culture Austur House Hverfisgötu 50 völlur Laugavegur 59 herrafataverslun.is MEISTARAVELLIR AÐALSTRÆTI National KIRKJUSTRÆTIPark HVERFISGATA facebook.com/hurrareykjavik BANKASTRÆTI Theatre LINDARGATA Located on the main shopping street BRÚNAVEGUR Icelandic SUNDLAUGAVEGUR Húrra Reykjavík is the brainchild of two SÓLVALLAGATA Parliament at Laugavegur 59, Herrafataverzlun SÆBRAUT VONARSTRÆTI PÓSTH.ST. young men born and raised in Reykja- Kormáks & Skjaldar is a unique mens- LAUGARNESVEGUR KAPLASKJÓLSVEGUR LÆKJARGATATaxi KLAPPARSTÍGUR LAUGAVEGUR HRAUNTEIGUR Laugardals vík. The ideology is quite simple, offer- wear shop that offers a great variety of Swimming REYNIMELUR HRINGBRAUT City VATNSST. BORGARTÚN ing Icelandic men the finest streetwear clothing and accessories. In addition Pool

Hall VESTURBRÚN AUSTURBRÚN Vesturbæjar VÍÐIMELUR SUÐURGATA HRÍSATEIGUR HOFSVALLAGATA INGÓLFSSTRÆTI SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR KIRKJUTEIGUR Swimming and contemporary fashion brands from ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTI to brands such as Barbour, Filson, Ben TJARNARGATA LAUGARÁSVEGUR Pool GRENIMELUR around the world. Húrra Reykjavík has VEGUR Sherman, Loake Shoemakers & Hackett Camping HAGAMELUR BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI SÓLTÚN site KAMBSVEGUR a passion for functionality, quality, the City GRETTISGATA of London, they have an in-house SKÚLAGATA Pond TA HOFTEIGUR classic and the ultra modern, blending LAUFÁS brand that offers suits, shirts and more. HJALLAVEGUR MELHAGI ESPIMELUR Hlemmur HÖFÐATÚN FRÍKIRKJUVEGUR LOKASTÍGUR FRAKKASTÍGUR NÓATÚN National ÓÐINSGA REYKJAVEGUR traditional work and outdoor pieces with ÞÓRSGATA The shopBu shas Term a inalfeel-good decorative LANGHOLTSVEGUR MIÐTÚN Gallery Taxi LAUGATEIGUR VITASTÍGUR HÓLSVEGUR EFSTASUND the avant garde, technical outerwear and SKOTHÚSVEGUR atmosphere and a staff that treats each Laugardalur NESHAGI NJÁLSGATA sportswear that fits the NorthernFURUMELUR climate. BARÓNSSTÍGUR person in a personal and gentle manner. HÁTÚN BERGÞÓRUGATA SNORRABRAUT SIGTÚN BIRKIMELURNational BALDURSGATA Hallgríms library LAUGAVEGUR HÁTÚN DYNGJUVEGUR KVISTHAGI SÓLEYJARGATA kirkja BRAUTARHOLT

FREYJUGATA Church BRAGAGATA KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT NJARÐARGATA National museum FJÖLNISVEGUR Sundhöllin SKIPHOLT ENGJAVEGUR Swimming RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR SUNNUVEGUR BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI EIRÍKSGATA ENGJATEIGUR FORNHAGI Pool BARÓNSSTÍGUREGILSGATA ÆGISÍÐA HJARÐARHAGI HRINGBRAUTHljómskáli SKIPHOLT Zoo and University HALLARMÚLI Park NÓATÚN family park of Iceland LAUFÁSVEGUR DUNHAGI Laugardalshöll SKIPASUND Sports hall SÆMUNDARGATA HÁTEIGSVEGUR

SNORRABRAUT HOLTAVEGUR EFSTASUND

LANGHOLTSVEGUR GUNNARSBRAUT TÓMASARHAGI STURLUAGATA Nordic House LÁGMÚLI ÁRMÚLI FLÓKAGATA Culture Center VATNSMÝRARVEGUR ENGJAVEGUR FÁLKAGATA GAMLA HRINGBRAUT

Taxi BSÍ RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR Kjarvalsstaðir

ARAGATA National SUÐURLANDSBRAUT NJARÐARGATA Coach ODDAGATA ÚTHLÍÐ Terminal Museum

EGGERTSGATA STAKKAHLÍÐ LYNGHAGI ÁRMÚLI BÓLSTAÐARHLÍÐ LANGAHLÍÐ SÍÐUMÚLI HÁALEITISBRAUT HRINGBRAUT MIKLABRAUT STARHAGI KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT ÁLFHEIMAR SKAFTAHLÍÐ

ÁLFTAMÝRI GOÐHEIMAR

NAUTHÓLSVEGUR

SAFAMÝRI ESKIHLÍÐ SÓLHEIMAR SKÓGARHLÍÐ BÚSTAÐAVEGUR BARMAHLÍÐ

REYKJAHLÍÐ MIKLABRAUT MÁVAHLÍÐ LJÓSHEIMAR ÞORRAGATA STIGAHLÍÐ DRÁPUHLÍÐ GNOÐARVOGUR Reykjavík

Domestic SKEIFAN BLÖNDUHLÍÐ STAKKAHLÍÐ GRÆNAHLÍÐ Airport Taxi

MIKLABRAUT FELLSMÚLI FLUGVALLARVEGUR GRENSÁSVEGUR

HAMRAHLÍÐ Kringlan Shopping Mall HÖRGSHLÍÐ EINARSNES

HÁAHLÍÐ

BÚSTAÐAVEGUR

STIGAHLÍÐ BAUGANES Hótel Loftleiðir

SKILDINGANES Perlan LISTABRAUT

OFANLEITI

Öskjuhlíð KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT MENNTAVEGUR VESTURHLÍÐ

SUÐURHLÍÐ

NAUTHÓLSVEGUR

University of Reykjavík

Nauthólsvík NORDIC.HERITAGE.FASHION

FLAGSHIP STORE: FARMERS & FRIENDS, HÓLMASLÓÐ 2, OLD HARBOR AREA / FISH PACKING DISTRICT PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF RETAILERS IN ICELAND WWW.FARMERSMARKET.IS