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Constantinople Ancient and Modern : with Excursions to the Shores and Islands of the Archipelago and to the Troad

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Constantinople Ancient and Modern : with Excursions to the Shores and Islands of the Archipelago and to the Troad . '»>. T-.T ^ '> • j ^' '« -•'"h n Q 'rd. A^' '^'JO 1 fyvv i^f f'^ ^ C 1 i\h ^- iHi # , CON S TAN TI N O PLE ANCIENT ?a\A MODERN with Excurfions to the SHORES d^w^lSLANJOS of the ARCHIPELAGO and to the TROAiy. By JAMES DALT.AWAY, M.B. F,S.A. late Chaplain and Phylician of TJIE BBITISH EMBASSY TO THE PORTE, IVinted lyy T.Bcnsley , fot T.Cadell Jnu": & AViDavies.in flie Strand. 1797. VNDER THE A V SPICES OF THE MOST NOBLE lOHN STVART, MARQVIS OF BYTE, EARL OF WINDSOR AND BVTE, VISCOVNT MONTIOY AND KINGARTH, BARON MOVNTSTVART OF WORTLEY, CARDIFF, MOVNTSTVART OF CVMRA AND INCHMARNOCK, LORD LIEVTENANT OF THE COVNTIES OF GLAMORGAN AND BVTE, ONE OF HIS MAIESTy's MOST HONOVRABLE PRIVY COVNCIL, AND HIS AMBASSADOR EXTRAORDINARY AND PLENIPOTENTIARY AT THE COVRT OF MADRID, THIS VOJLVME IS OFFERED TO THE PVBLIC. IVNE V. MDCCXCVI. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from Research Library, The Getty Research Institute http://archive.org/details/constantinopleanOOdall CONTENTS. SECTION I PAGE Extent and Plan of the Tour— Prefent Jiate of AJia Afmor— Ionian lanJfcape — Mountains, lakes, and rivers — Turki/Ti vil- lages—Fountains— Character of the Turks and modern Greeks — Qi/i of countenance in the men rejhnhling the antique — Female beauty—Schools of portrait pai?iting—Mode of travelling —Accommodatio?is — General view of writers concerning the Levant i SECTION II. Summary account of Byzantium—Of Confantinople Jince the poffef- Jion of the Turks— City walls— Gates—Seven towers—Seraglio —Sublime Porte—Church of St. Irene, novo the armoury— TJie two courts, with their gates—Column of Theodo/ius—Kiofques —Sultans 7iew garden—Baths—Library — Treafures—Apart- jneftts of Jiate—Chamber of audience— hihabitants— Sketch of female economy in theferaglio, wiith the prefent arrangement of the harhn 13 — IV CONTENTS. PAGE SECTION III. Of the political Jyjieni in the feragUo, and the office of vfler— Revenues of the fiiltan, and taxes hfl'itnted by him—Finafices of the empire—Anecdotes of the fultan—Of the heirs apparent—Of MeJimet Melek, hte vifier—Of the perfons ivho compofe the prefent ruling cabinet—Of the capoudan pafha and the marine—Of Che- Uby Effendi—Of Ghazi Hafscln, his influence with Sultan Abdiil- hamid in the itiftances of Mavro-yeni and Petraki, two candidates for the_ throne of Wallachia—Kiflar agha—Reception and audi- ences of the fate officers—Public procejftotis and ceremonies of the fi^tan 35 SECTION IV. Of the itriperial mofques—Santa Sophia— Tenure of vacuf and ac- count of its eflablifliment—Sultan Mohammed 11. — Greek archi- teSls—Sultan Bayazid—Sultan Selzni—Sultan Ahmet I. —Suley- manie—Shah Zadeh—Ofmame—Laleli— Turbelis or fepulchral chapels—Mofques built by valide fultans—Public libraries and academies, and their inftitution 51 SECTION V. Atmeydan or hippodrome—Egyptian obelifk—Serpentine column— Brazen obelifk—Game of djrit—Remarks on ancient and modern Conflantinople—Streets—Houfes, and domejlic architeSiure—Si- lence in the flreets—Fires, and the conduSi of the Turks at them Khans—Bazars—Bezeflen—Defcription of different natio?is— The Turks, the Greeks, the Armenian, and Jew—Mechanical trades—Coffee-hoifes— Opium—Adminiflration of public jtifiice CONTENTS. V PAGE —Rammezan— Sumptuary laws—Drefs of the Turks —Sketch offociety and manners 66 SECTION VI. JantJJartes, their inft'itution and prefentJiate—Sketch of military dij- cipl'me and arrangetnent—Boftandjts— Topdjis— Greek churches converted into mofqiies— The Fandl—Four high offices given to Greeks—Of the princes and their families—Dependance of the Greek gentry 88 SECTION VII. The plague—Fountains—Aquedu6i of Valens—Ancient cifierns— Batlis— Columjis—Efkl ferai—Palaces of Greek emperors— Vil- lage of Eyuh—Kidtchandh—Gardens—Mofque of Piali Paflia— Aiii Aleh Kavdc Serai—Harbour—Environs of Cofi/lantinople . io6 SECTION VIII. Galata—Hfloricalfketch—Prefentfiate—Pera— Corps diplomatique —Dragomans—Society at Pera— Tandour—Porters—Medrefseh —Mevleveh dervifhes— Ceremonies and mufic—Prmces iflands —Prote—Antigone—Kalke—Prinkipo—Monafleries—Return of thefultan by water 1 23 SECTION IX. The Bofporus—Palaces of fultands—Anecdote of the princefs Bey Khan— Houfes of Greeks and Armenians— Oppo/itc cq/lles— VI CONTENTS, PAGE Buyuk-dereh—Summer rejidence ofamhaffadors—Belgrad— Greek xvedd'mg— Temple of Jupiter Ur'ms, and ca/ile oti the Afiatlcfhore — Cyanaati rocks— Scutari— Turkfh hury'mg grounds and ce- remonies 136 SECTION X. Departure from Confantinople— Tophana— View of the feraglia— The canal of the Bofporus—Scutari, or CryfopoUs—Leanders tower— Chalcedon—Ancient hi/iory—Oracle—Council—Princes' tjlands, or Damoneji—Gulf of Nicomedia—Hi/lory of that city— Ruins of the palace of Dioclejian—Pi£lurefquefcenery at the head of the gidf—Infcription—Eracli—Ancient HeracUa—Heights of Argenthon— Village of Tavoufhandftl—Plain of Nicaa— City •walls—Hi/lory and antiquities—Prefent fiate—hake Afcanius— Pliny and Catullus—Bazarkeuy 153 SECTION XL Approach to Brifa—Annals— Tomb of Suitcm Orchan—Armenian hifliop—Defcription of the p'efent city—Anciejit baths—Obfer- vation on the effeSi of the atmofphere on landfcape— Vifit to Ifaat Effendi at his cluftTik—Afcent of mount Olympus—Sketch of that mountain—Apollonia—Scenery on the lake— Ulahad— Greek con- vent—Pa?tegyris—Dances—Of Ariadne—Pyrhica faltatio—Hif- tory and ca/ile of Ulabad—Mount Temnos—Flocks and fhepherds — Villages of Turks and Abyfjinian Jlaves—Burying grounds— Balamede—Lydia—Plain of Hermus or Sarabat—Riverfamous for golden fands—Marauders— Territory of Kara Ofman Oglii— Some account of him 1 74 CONTENTS. VU PAGE SECTION XII. View of mount Sipylus—Fahle of N'lohe—Magnejia—Defcr'tpt'ton of the city, cajile, and mofqiie—Road to Smyrna—Evening profpe£i of the hay—Annals of the city U7ider the Greeks, Romans, and Saracens—Modertt calamities— The plague—Fra Lulgl di Pavla —Anecdote of him, and account of his hofpltal—Birth-place of Homer— Claim of Smyrna — Blon and Mlmnermus natives — Dlfcovery of a flattie of Parts—Moutit Pagus— The caflle— Vefllges of the fiadlum and theatre—River Meles—Aquedu^s— Turklfh harem—Modern Smyrna—Its foclety, &c.—Mount Gal- lefus— Caravan of camels— Vale of Ephefus—River Cdyfler— Defcrlptlon of the port 193 SECTION XIII. Of the temple of Diana—Its ancient fplendour and hlflory—Anclait Ephefus under the Greeks and Romans—Introduction of chrlfllanlty by Timothy, thefr/l hi/hop— Taken hy the Carlan princes In 1300 —Foundation of Alafoluk from Its rums—De/crlptlon of the pre- fent vefllges— Caverns—Story of thefeven fleepers In the Koran— Caflle, mofque, and aquedu£i, at Alafoluk Zii SECTION XIV. Roadfrom Ephefus toward Miletus—Scala Nova— Coffee-huts, and the veneration of the Turks for large trees—Mount Alycale— Chameleon— Kellhefh — Prlene — Temple of Minerva Polios— Panlonlan games—Mount Latmos—Miletus 229 — via CONTENTS. PAGE SECTION XV. Sketch of the hiftory of Miletus— Theatre—Mofque—Flock of cranes — Giawr Ura— Teffiple ofApollo at Branchlda— Greek dances— Whirhoind and tlmnder-florm— Thomajia—Cavern under the promontory of TrogyUmm— Voyage to Sanios—Account of Santos — Temple of Juno—Rums of the city— Vathl— Voyage to Claros and Colophon—Conje5iure of the oracular cave . 22,9 SECTION XVI. Claros—Sejejek— Teios— Theatre— Temple of Bacchus— Vourla— Clazimentz—Chefhme—Sea-fght hetween the Turks and Ruffians in 1770 Arrival at Chio 261 SECTION XVII. Ancient hifiory of Chio—Chian wine—Birth-place of Homer— City of Chio, and the prefent flate of the ifland— Character of the Greeks— Villages— Cultivation ofgum-maflic—Beauty and dreffes of the women—Homer s fchool—ht/lance of longevity— Cq/ile and clmrch 270 SECTION XVIII. Return to Chefhme and Vourla—Smyrna—Inbat, or noon-tide zephir —Menimen—Klifsekeuy—Infcriptions—Anecdote of the agha of Ufliak—Carina— Temple of Hercules—Purpofes to which ancient marbles are applied by the Turks—-Pergamus—Attalian kings— CONTENTS IX PAGE Library of Eummes—Death of Attalus Ph'tlometor, and the Jiic- cejjion of the Romans 287 SECTION XIX. Removal of the treafures of Attalusfrom Pergamiis to Rof/ie—H't/hry of Pergamus—Modern city the refdence ofHadjem Morad Oglu— Ruins of the church of St. Johi—Mountam and caflle— Temple dedicated to Trajan—Palace of the Attalian kings—Library— Statues and pi^ures — Teff'ellated pavements — Naumacliia — Theatre— Temple of^failapius—Commonfewers— Vale ofCa'icus —Reception by the agha of Ayafmath—Defcription of the domefiic life of a Tnrhfli country gentleman 299 SECTION XX. Ifland ofMytelene— City of Mytelcne—Road through olive grounds— Reception with Hadji Bckir Effefidi —Methymttce—Petra—Mol~ leva—Mehmet Bey— Cufiom ofinheritance in Mytelene— Climate— Poets— Terpander, Alccsus, and Sappho— Wine fo efleemed by the Romans—Of thofe who have found an afylum at Mytelene— Greeks after the lofs of Cotifiantinople—Leonard of Chio—Extent according to Strabo and Pliny—Prize for beauty given in the temple ofJuno—Pittacus—Military hi/lory of the ijland—Influence of the Turks—Leave Mytelene— Voyage to Narla —Chebna— Evijek—Arijek—ProfpeSi of the Troad 312 SECTION XXI. Alexandria Troas—Defcription of its prefentfiate and ancient hiflory —Deflru€iion by the Goths—Removal of columns to Conflantinople b — • CONTENTS. PAGE Hot laths at Lidga Hamam— Udjek Tepee— Chtftlik of Hajfan Pajha— Temple of Apollo Thymhrmis—Promontory and c'tty of Dardanus— Chanak Kaleji, or Dardanelles— Caflle and town— The conful— Hellefpont— European cafile of Chelit hawhr't— Seflos—Story of Hero and Leander—Ahydos— Cynofjema or tomb of Hecula—Komn-kale/i—Lower cafile—Survey of the plain of Troy—Aianteum or tomb of Ajax—Ilium profpeSi—Halyleli— Turkifh "wedding—Tumuli round the plain of Troy—Site of an ancient city ^t^S SECTION XXII. Approach to the village of Bounarhafhi— The agha Hadji Mehmet —Examination of the Jite of Troy—Scaan gate—Homeric geo- graphy—Hot fource of the Scamander—Tumuli—ProfpeSi from the citadel—Hypothefes of M.
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