A free resource guide to activities in the Chicago area January-February 2000 Vol. 7, No. 7 ......

In*This Issue: Peru-A Spiritual Journey Cuban Yoga Odyssey 1 Yoga Teacher Profile: Ayurvedic Self-care Lynn Pigott Yogi Amrit Desai Workshop Reviews: Directory of Classes Gary Kraftsow, Leann Carey & Calendar Q&A: Goswami Porters on the Inca Trail actually happened." She explained how we have choices, 0urn @V and we can choose to be joyful & all the time. Pain is inevitable By Sharon Steffensen but suffering is not. What we think about creates our reality. One way to be mindful of this When 1 called Supera, The focal point of the grounds is bread, potatoes and avocados. fact is to be conscious of our director of the Feathered Pipe the 500-year-old Lucma tree With only two hours of sleep speech, especially our use of the Ranch, to ask for details on their which sits at the end of the and altitude sickness, word "it" as in "It's hot in here." 10-day "Yoga in Perun trip with Another way to say it would be, guestteacher Judith ~asater,she "It's hotter than I would like it." advised me to join a health club Rather than "I can't do it," we as soon as possible. My non- might say, "I'm willing to try it," aerobic yoga practice and bike etc. Judith's advice proved useful riding in Chicago's low altitude throughout the trip as we experi- would not be sufficient enced a variety of conditions. preparation for hiking the lnca The next few days included a Trail, a three-day, arduous uphill rafting trip down the Urubamba climb to 13,700 feet. For the next River; the lncan ruins at Pisaq two months I climbed stairs in and Ollantaytambo; the 160th my office building-eight flights anniversary of Urubamba, cele- of 20 stairs each-working up to brated by parades. live music, seven cycles by the time I left for dancing and all-day partying on Peru in early November. the main street; and the market- place in Pisaq, several blocks of The Sacred Valley stalls along narrow stone streets The morning after our arrival and an open-air market where in Lima, we flew to Cuzco, which people can buy Peruvian was the capital of the lnca sweaters, tapestries, jewelry, empire five centuries ago. Cuzco pottery, Andean musical instru- sits at the base of the Sacred ments, hats, scarves, gloves, and Valley, the area between Cuzco hot breads fresh out of the oven and Machu Picchu, along the in a Large, open-air bakery. . Urubamba River, which is where we spent most of our time. Philosophy of the Incas The altitude in Cuzco is 11,ooo As we traveled by bus to the feet above sea level. To avoid ruins at Pisaq and altitude sickness, we left immed- Ollantaytambo, Juan Carlos iately for a two-hour bus ride to explained some key concepts of Willka T'ika, near the small town the lncan philosophy to us. of Urubamba, where the altitude The apu were the mountains, is only 9,000 feet. Most of us which the lncans considered to were already feeling queasy be protectors. Kon means cycle when we got there, but there of water. represented by the was an antidote-coca tea. rivers, ocean and clouds. Both "Drink a minimum of four cups, the mountains and the water are as hot as you can stand it, with considered protectors of life. no sugar, and then go imme- The lnca Fail, a 3-day hike up to 13,700feet dtitude, en& at Mach~iPicchu. Titi is the word for puma, the diately to bed" were the instruc- spiritual energy that we all have, tions given to us by our guide property, overlooking the spiral was the most the wisdom to' learn to survive or JuanCarlos. garden which overflows with anyone could handle that first live in harmony within our envi- Even though Peru was just Andean medicinal herbs and afternoon. The next morning ronment and with other human entering into the spring season, flowers. In fact most of the after breakfast, however, Judith beings. The puma (along with lavish masses of flowers already vegetables we were served were led us in a regular yoga session. the condor and the snake) are surrounded the 16th century picked fresh from the garden She began with a quote from considered sacred animals in the Spanish colonial style cottage at and combined with indigenous Mark Twain which I paraphrase lncan culture. Willka T'ika, which was more of grains such as quinoa and as, "I have lived through many The word teqsi-kaylla, relates a spiritual refuge than a lodge. amaranth, fresh cheese and tragedies, several of which e continued on page 6

YOGAChicago January- February, 2000 3 earthquakes. Within the walls can Is is estimated that 1,000 people roosters crowing and dogs bark- be seen certain placements of lived there in 200 rooms. ing, and we did yoga outside on rocks that together form the Terraces were built for farming, the bright sunny terrace over- continued from page 3 - shape of a puma or llama. an extensive water system was looking the city. Key to their success was the established, and homes, palaces, Judith began with a short to timing, beginning and ending, Incas' strong sense of commu- temples, storage houses, and discourse on mindstuff, or chitta, recycling, the return of the nity and commitment to excel- mausoleums were built. as explained in the Yoga Sutras. seasons. Everything is eternal, lence in their craft. Everything One of the highlights of The mind is continally in a state says Juan Carlos. The Incas had a they did was an offering back to Machu Picchu is the temple of of flux: one minute we are strong belief in reincarnation. happy; the next second we are Wiraqocha means "the fatten- agitated. Yoga, however, is a ing of the water," or the foam on state in which all our agitations the water, which refers to fermen- are resolved. The key to that tation of life or brewing. All of state, explained Judith, is dis- life began in the ocean. That's identification. We are not trying why the ocean is called Mama- to change, suppress or control qocha, which means beginning our throughts-the mind has its and protection of life. Mother own agenda-we simply choose Earth, called Pachamama, is a not to react to the fluctuations of complement of the ocean, which the mind. For example, if you means protector of life on solid say, "I am angry," you have ground. identified "I" with "anger." When Pachayachachiq is the order we do this, we are not free. If, as established in the universe. however, you say, "1 am having "Every element has a reason to an angry thought," you are step- be on this planet," explained ping back from that thought. You Carlos. "If you destroy one of the create some space from the elements of the planet, you are emotion. The next step is to say, destroying yourself because you "Anger is arising," which has are part of it." To offset about the same emotional inten- imbalances, offerings are made sity as "Clouds are passing." to the elements of nature. Judith explained that when we Peruvian woman with llama and child in the town of Cuzco. Another concept of lncan identify with our thoughts, we philosophy is ayni, which means have a tendency to obsess about "today for me, tomorrow for you," nature or to life. Because life the sun, where on June 21 the them, and they affect the way we the idea being that all work is was good to them, they likewise sun comes in through the middle are able to e"joy an experience. shared and that each person gave back to nature to the very window, and on December 21 "Thoughts are not reality," said benefits from helping others. best of their ability. through the north window. Judith. "Yoga is about getting rid Rather than paying for services, Even today, the Quechl~a Outside the temple a diamond- of the veils that cloud our experi- the native Peruvians (the greeting to one another is "ama shaped stone carving of the ence of what is happening at Quechua people) barter, a cus- sua, ama Ilulla, ama kkella," southern cross points due north. this moment." tom that continues to this day. which means, "Don't lie, don't On June 21, when the sun shines Judith told us to think of the Being an archeologist as well steal, don't be lazy." In return, on this stone, this sculpture emotions that had surfaced as a Quechuan (native Peruvian), the other person answers the makes the shadow of a puma. In within us during the past 24 Juan Carlos shared with us the equivalent of "The same to you." fact, all of Machu Picchu is in the hours. "They dominate our true meanings of how and why shape of a puma, evident when experience of those moments. the lncans built their cities and Machu Picchu viewed from a certain point. In Are you experiencing reality as it temples the way they did. The After a few days at Willka the mausoleum section, stand- is, or are you experiencing your massive stone structures which T'ika, we look an early morning ing guard are two giant rocks in thoughts about it? Acknowledge fit perfectly together without bus to Ollantaytambo to catch a tile shape of the wings of a con- your thoughts, then choose mortar were brought up ramps 7:30 train to Machu Picchu, dor, the sacred bird who carries another path. That's the spiritual and easily chiseled into shape several thousand Feet lower in :he dead to the higher world. quest." with a hematite stone, which Juan altitude than Urubamba. Every- During the next few days, Juan Carlos demonstrated with a small one felt exceptionally well there. Cuaco Carlos took us to ruins and tool he pulled from his bag. Not Machu Picchu is exactly like it After a day at Machu Piccu, we temples in and around Cuzco. only were the rocks shaped to fit looks in photographs, only it is spent the night in a hotel in The weather was perfect: warm together perfectly, the walls also about ten times bigger. The city Aguas Calientas and rode the days and cool nights. On the day slanted inward slightly to fortify was built in loo years from the train to Cuzco the next day. The we went to the ruins, a Quechua the structures against mid-1400s until the mid-1500s. next morning we woke to e cont~nuedon page 8

6 YOGAChicago January - February, 2000 the lnca Trail, at a point called km 88, which strength of fishing line. The tip of the leaf is Peru we had seen from the train coming from attached to it and is used as a needle.. Machu Picchu. We started hiking while the We stopped to visit a family in their continued from page 6 porters (seven including the cook) traditional home. The mother was stirring assembled the packs, which included food, cheecha, a homemade corn brew popular cooking equipment, sleeping tents, dining among the Quechua people, and pouring it flautist who had played for us one evening at tent, cooking tent, bathroom tent, a folding into containers. Two small, shy children Willka T'ika accompanied us and played near dining table, small folding chairs, and a large clung to her skirts. Guinea pigs (a delicacy) the rocks and in a cave. metal box that held breakables such as eggs and chickens scratched on the dirt floor. On our last night in Cuzco, we ate dinner and crackers-all this in addition to our own Adriel explained to us that many tourists at a restaurant in the square with Peruvian frame backpacks holding our clothing and think the Andean people are poor, but they traditional singing and dancing. This was the sleeping bags. Shortly after we started are not poor. They grow their own food, rais last night for some tour members; some walking, they ran past us, carring three some livestock and are self-sufficient. They would continue on to a two-day jungle tour backpacks apiece; and when we arrived at barter with their neighbors. Everyone helps and four of us would leave for the lnca Trail. the first stop, they had lunch ready. everyone else. Also, they live surrounded b During the next three days, we were greeted great beauty, and their lives are stress free. The lnca Trail at dawn with a cup of tea and a dishpan of The Quechua people live in harmony with ~t 5:30 A.M. a van came for us. (Everything warm water outside our tents. After breakfast, nature, and nature takes care of them. happened so early in Peru!) On our way to we'd hike, stopping for lunch and a nap, and The lnca Trail is made of rough stone, the lnca Trail, we stopped in Ollantaytambo, hike again until late afternoon. We'd arrive at most often in uneven stairs several feet where our guide Adriel had arranged for us the campsite exhausted, but our tents would wide. The second day was spent literally to visit Rumisoncco, a shaman who would be set up with our packs inside, warm water traversing stone steps all day at a high give us a blessing for the trip. set out for washing, and tea, hot chocolate, altitude. That morning Adriel pointed out o The four of us sat around a small table on popcorn and crackers and jelly would be ready destination for the day: a mountain pass fa a large llama rug that covered the dirt floor. for us in the dining tent. A half hour later a off in the distance, 13,700 feet up called First Rumisoncco gave each of us a small tasty dinner was served by candlelight- Dead Woman's Pass. My stomach was stone Andean cross to wear around our neck usually soup, rice and vegetables, stew, and already feeling queasy, but I started up thc during the trip, and then performed a pudding for desert. Immediately after dinner, path, one step at a time. After an hour or s reading with coca leaves, which foretold we collapsed in our tents. we came into the cloud forest where trees, good weather except at the end of the trail. We didn't have to do anything but eat, lush ferns, thick moss, and tropical lookin: Next he spread out a piece of wrapping sleep and hike. Hikers like us are called plants grew along the trail. We could have paper (with a computer keyboard motif!) and "pampered tourists." A few other groups been in Hawaii. offered a prayer for the offering he was were on the trail at the same time. some AS we ascended upward, we came out o about to assemble from a package of herbs, carrying their own packs with porters the cloud forest into the dwarf region whe~ seeds, candies, confetti, incense, flower carrying the food and preparing it, and small trees and low bushes grew. petals, and other ingredients Adriel had others roughing it on their own. Wildflowers sprouted along the path and brought from Cuzco. We all assisted in On the trail Adriel taught us about Andean they encouraged me. As I stopped to catct sprinkling these items onto the paper, and history, geography, customs, philosophy, my breath (sometimes every five steps!), I Ruminsocco wrapped up the offering and plants, birds, butterflies, animals. He looked out at the incredible views of Mt. S gave it to Adriel for the trip. Later that night showed us an agape cactus and how, when Francisco, Mt. Veronica, and the sacred Mt we would build a bonfire and offer it to you peel off the top layer of one of its long Salkkantay. Even though my heart was Pachamama, Mother Earth. leaves, it reveals long, sturdy strands of pounding continuously and my insides we By late morning we arrived at the start of plant material with the consistency and the a continued on pap .continued from page 8 churning inside out, I felt tremendous gratitude to be there. My primary thought was, "I'm on the lnca Trail!" Toward the top we came into the highlands where only tough grasses grow. The air became much colder and windier, the higher we went. For this day we had brought our heavier clothing, including hats and gloves. At the top we took photos and performed a small ceremony. We had each selected a small stone to carry with us to the top. We laid our stones on the ground, Porters on the lnca Trail toward Machu Picchu , Peru. opened a beer, offered it to the four directions, poured some of journey. It was a joyous event. Sunday. I decided to sit on a that smiled at me. I sensed a it onto Mother Earth, thanking Eventually everyone climbed bench and do nothing. kinship with the ancient spiritual her for our successful climb, and down another hour or so to the Later that afternoon we toured energies of the Andes, and all of each took a sip. Starting down Sacred City. Friendly llamas met Lima and the Museo de Oro (Gold us felt a bond with our guides the other side of the mountain, us on the way. Although we had Museum). We ate dinner in the and with one another. We we spotted the dining tent far toured Machu Picchu the week hotel, and the next morning we learned with and from each below where the porters were before, this time we visited got a wake-up call at 4:45 for other. Most valuable were things preparing, as it turned out, a some different sections and our ride back to the airport to we learned about the Andean very late lunch. were interested in Adriel's catch our flight back to Houston. people. Their respect for the We were fortunate to have interpretations of the legends. With some vacations-most earth, their attitudes toward one such favorable weather. At other That afternoon we lode the '~acations-you get back into another, and their simple times, hikers have walked train back to Cuxco where we your routines, and after a day or lifestyle are what the world through three days of dense fog. took showers, repacked our two you feel like you hadn't even needs to heal itself. Spring was approaching, and in luggage, and fell into bed. Early gone anywhere. Although I am In looking at my photos, I see the cloud forests Adriel pointed the next morning we caught a back into my routines, I myself sitting on a ledge over- out exotic flowers and wild plane back to Lima and met up definitely have gone somewhere. looking Machu Picchu. Why orchids blooming. with the rest of tile group, who This trip had been referred to didn't I at least sit in the lotus Wake-up call the last morning had gone on the jungle trail. as an adventure trip; however, it position or do a tree pose? is at 4:15 so that hikers can get to Cver breakfast, we exchanged was much more than an Originally I planned to take Macchu Picchu at sunrise to see stories and made plans for the adventure. Neither was it a yoga photos of people doing yoga in the sun coming over the mountain rest of the day. (Evidently the vacation, although we did as that spiritual site. Then I realized and shining on the lncan city. It plane to the jungle ran into much yoga as we could, despite it might have been inappropri- had rained our last night (as the horrific weather where even the the last.niinute changes in train ate, bordering on ostentatious. shaman had predicted), but the flight attendants were scream- schedules and other unforseen Machu Picchu stands alone. I'm morning was clear. ing, arid the pilot later anno!~ilced circumstances. (In Peru we in the photo only for perspective. The Gate of the Sun, large that the Virgin Mary had i~rid~d learfied to be flexible in many Besides, when you're at a place stone pillars which open out ihe piaxe.) After breakfast some ways other than through yoga.) like Machu Picchu, you're so onto a terrace overlooking went shopping at the lr~tfian Nor was it a relaxing trip. overcome with a feeling of awe, Machu Picchu far below, was market, others went to ifstail- Two weeks in Peru is trans- you're not thinking about filled with people from the trail rants or coffee sl-lop5 to reiax. i fcrrming, perhaps simiiar to what anything but where you are. and others who had hiked up found a lovely pa:!( with gardens, some people feel when they from the hotel down below at fountains, children playing in the travel to India. The same exact the main entrance. For most of playground, couples stroiling, experiences could not be dupli- the hikers, this was their first whole families squeezing onto cated anywhere else. On the trail For the whole story (well, almost view of the spectacular golden benches, ver~dorsselling I experienced that everything the whole story), see our website at www.yogachicago.com. city gleaming in the sun. We balloons and popcorn, people had a purpose, from the protec- were pilgrims at the end of the eating ice cream cones. It was tion of the apu, to the wildflowers

YOGAChicago January - February, 2000 25