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FREE EBOOK GUIDE One Month Patagonia Travel Itinerary

One of the best – and most frustrating – parts about exploring Patagonia is how there’s an almost never- ending list of spectacular natural formations, unspoilt nature and incredible off-the-beaten-trail adventures to be found. Why is that frustrating? Well, having now spent over two months travelling in Patagonia, I still feel like I’ve only skimmed the surface. Ultimately, Patagonia is a place where you could keep coming back and never really feel like you’ve seen it all. If you’ve only four weeks, this is ample time for seeing the region’s highlights. In one month, expect to stand in awe at the snouts of Argentina’s finest glaciers, trek through wild scenery, cruise through the Chilean fjords, hike in one of the world’s most famous national parks and road trip to some of Patagonia’s remotest places. Unfortunately, there just isn’t time to visit the with this route; if you want to (and I recommend you do), consider travelling the Carretera Austral southwards from and into Argentina Patagonia at the Villa O’Higgins crossing instead. This should add at least ten days to your trip and you can find information about exploring Patagonia's finest road using this article about the Carretera Austral

page 2 www.worldlyadventurer.com What equipment do you need for Patagonia?

Camping gear

Camping equipment is useful, although not entirely essential for this itinerary around Patagonia. For the O Circuit in Torres del Paine National Park, you can rent equipment in . However, if you plan on wild camping in (or saving money on accommodation in Ushuaia), it’s worth bringing your own gear. For my recommendations on everything you need to pack for Patagonia, head over to my packing checklist for Patagonia.

Food

At some points along this route, it is hard to get hold of food easily, so I’ve indicated which destinations have supermarkets and are best for stocking up.

Maps

For the road trip at the end of the itinerary, buy a copy of the ChileTur Copec guide (available from COPEC petrol stations). You should be able to buy the “Rutas de ” map which will be indispensable for driving around Patagonia.

I would also recommend that you download Maps.me, a free app that covers the roads and even hiking routes of most of Patagonia.

www.worldlyadventurer.com page 3 RECOMMENDATIONS F O R T R A V E L L I N G I N P A T A G O N I A

Don’t try and fly from Chile to Argentina. It’s The shoulder seasons, October-November and horribly expensive. If you’re not arriving in March-April are far quieter – and cheaper - Patagonia by bus, always fly internally from for backpacking in Patagonia. Santiago or Buenos Aires and then use one of Accommodation and agencies in some towns the long-distance (and generally are sometimes not running in October or April comfortable) buses to cross the border. You though. will save a lot of cash. Bus schedules vary depending on the season LATAM and Sky are Chile’s main airlines. If you and change year-to-year. Always visit the bus book through LATAM’s US site, you price is station when you get to a new place to four times greater than what you would pay if confirm timings and buy tickets for the next you buy via their Chilean site. It’s in Spanish leg of your journey. It's also important to plan though, so find someone who can translate. additional days into your itinerary in case you Patagonia is probably the safest part of can’t travel on the day you had initially South America. I’ve hitchhiked in Chile intended. without problems and would thoroughly Self-catering is by far the best way of recommend this as a form of transport. (Get keeping costs down. Where possible, I’ve tips on hitchhiking in South America here). highlighted the best places to stock up on Car hire is also an interesting and rewarding food. way of seeing Patagonia, although booking in However, crossing the border between advance during high season is again Argentina and Chile, you cannot take fresh recommended. There are plenty of fruit, vegetables, cheese or meat. It will be international companies offering car rental in confiscated and if you don’t own up to it Patagonia but you may find local businesses (particularly when heading into Chile), you offer cheaper prices; do a Google search may be fined. before booking. page 4 wwwwww..wwoorrllddllyyaaddvveennttuurreerr..ccoomm page 3 ONE MONTH PATAGONIA TRAVEL ITINERARY

Day 1: Santiago to Puerto Montt Days 2 to 5: Navimag Ferry to Puerto Natales Fly from Santiago to Puerto Montt (11 flights Take a bus back to Puerto Montt and board the per day, one hour 45 minutes). Navimag to Puerto Natales. The ferry should set From the airport, take the bus ($2,500 sail at 4pm, but be aware that the boats don’t necessarily leave at the time they should (the CLP/$4 USD, every 30 minutes) to the terminal Navimag left 12 hours late when I sailed in April in Puerto Montt and board a local minibus to 2016) so leave room in your Patagonia itinerary lakeside Puerto Varas (20-minutes) – one of for this eventuality. Chile’s most picturesque towns. According to the 2017 schedule, these boats If you’ve got time in the afternoon, take a only leave on Fridays. Learn more about taking minibus (ask at your hostel for instructions) to this ferry by reading this article about the visit Saltas de Petrohué, waterfalls that sit Navimag. below imposing Volcán Osorno. Days 6 to 7: Puerto Natales Accommodation & Food You should arrive around 4pm into the port at Puerto Natales. Go directly to the bus station Compass del Sur (dorm $9,500 CLP/$14 USD, to book return tickets to Torres del Paine double room $24,000 CLP/$36 USD), is my National Park for Day 8. favourite hostel in Patagonia (it’s got huge Spend the afternoon relaxing and sampling rooms, a kitchen and delicious, home-made the local beer at Cerveza Baguales (Calle breakfast). Carlos Bories 430), Chile’s first brew pub or Mesa Tropera (Calle Santa Rosa 161) enjoying a Torres del Paine Austral beer in any has top notch pizza and beer (and an other bar (it’s a limited edition so you don’t incredible location overlooking the lake) and find it in many places in Chile). La Olla (Calle Ruta 22) has Puerto Varas’ best seafood.

www.worldlyadventurer.com page 5 Accommodation & Food the bus at Laguna Amarga Ranger Station (the first one you reach). Pay your entry fee You’re spoiled for choice when it comes to ($21,000 CLP/$32 USD) and start the hike. accommodation. Spend the night at Hostal Enjoy nine days of trekking through magical Lili-Patagonico’s (dorm $14,000 CLP/$21 USD, scenery, spotting wildlife such as owls, double $28,000 CLP/$42 USD) or get a guanacos and Andean Condors and finishing cheaper room at the basic, but comfortable with the sight of the towers at dawn. Casa Teresa (Calle Esmeralda) (dorm $10,000 Return to Puerto Natales in the evening of CLP/$15 USD). Day 12 and enjoy a celebratory beer – you’ve earned it! Buy tickets for the morning bus to El The next day, organise hiking gear and sort Calafate. out your shopping. Unfortunately, there is only one supermarket in town but there are plenty Days 16 to 18: El Chaltén of small shops selling nuts and dried fruit Buses leave in the morning from the terminal in which will be great for maintaining your Puerto Natales to El Calafate (five hours energy levels on the trail. including border crossing). Check the Spend any free time visiting the waterfront timetable for buses back to Puerto Natales or just enjoying the town. There are plenty of and buy return tickets to El Chaltén. If you’re good restaurants, including La Guanaca on a budget, stock up on food for the next few Pizzeria (Calle Magallanes 167). days and then board the bus to El Chaltén Days 7 to 15: Hike the O Circuit, (four hours). Torres del Paine National Park There are plenty of hikes to keep you busy, including to Laguna de los Tres and Laguna At 7:15am, board the bus to Torres del Paine Torre, both of which offer the best views in National Park. You can start the O hike town. There’s even multi-day hikes in the from various different points, but most get off national park. Check out this website for full information about El Chaltén and where to hike in this part of Patagonia. There are lots of restaurants in town, none of which are for those on a budget. The steaks at La Tapera (Calle Jose Antonio), the beer in Don Guerra (Calle San Martin) and the sweet and savoury waffles in La Wafleria (Calle San Martin 640) are delicious. There are a small number of minimarkets around the town but they regularly sell out of basic supplies. page 6 www.worldlyadventurer.com Accommodation & Food This city is often overlooked in favour The Pioneros del Valle Hostel (dorm $350 of heading directly to Puerto Natales, but it’s ARS/$20 USD, double $1,300 ARS/$77 USD) is actually an interesting place to spend an comfortable, although campgrounds, such as afternoon. You’ve got the Museo Regional El Relincho are cheaper. de Magallanes (with its exhibits on the indigenous and colonial history of the region), the large cemetery with its fascinating mixture Days 19 to 20: El Calafate of international gravestones, as well as the Take a bus back to El Calafate (four hours) waterfront and a range of comfortable cafes. and buy a ticket for onward travel to Puerto Natales on Day 21. Accommodation & Food In the afternoon, rent a bike and visit Punta Get an exceptional steak at El Fogon De Lalo Walichu, an archaeological site that’s home to Limitada (Calle 21 de Mayo 1650) and 7,000-year-old cave paintings. Hospedaje Costanera (dorm $13,000 CLP/$20 USD, double $35,000 CLP/$52 USD) was my Accommodation & Food favourite cheap hostel in town. Albergue & Hostal del Glaciar Libertador (dorm $509 ARS/$30 USD, double $1,810 ARS/$106 USD) is one of the best hostels in town and the Patagonian roast lamb at Parrilla Don Pichon (Calle Puerto Deseado 242) to die for.

The next morning, visit Reserva Laguna Nimez (1km from town) to see over 70 species of birds, including Chilean flamingos. Rent a taxi for the day (if there are two or more of you) or take the bus from the terminal to Los Glaciares National Park and Glacier Perito Moreno. Park entry isn’t cheap ($500 ARS/$30 USD) but it’s worth it to see this huge glacier in all its glory.

Day 21: El Calafate to Punta Arenas

Board the bus back to Puerta Natales (five hours including border crossing) and then on to Punta Arenas (three hours 30 minutes, buses leave from the main terminal).

www.worldlyadventurer.com page 7 Day 22: Cabo Froward

There are plenty of places to rent a car in Punta Arenas, including international companies such as Avis and Europcar (find a list of smaller rental companies here). Visit the supermarket and stock up with enough food for the next four days before cross the border Ushuaia. It’s also worth asking your rental company for a petrol can to take with you as petrol stations are few and far between in some parts of Tierra del Fuego. The Copec “Rutas de Chile” map mentioned in the equipment section of this guide has most petrol stations marked on it. with a vehicle is easy enough; the ferry arrives I also recommend picking up a copy of the every half an hour and you need to pay Patagonia map offered at the tourist office in $15,000 CLP/$17 USD at a small booth on Punta Arenas as it’s a larger scale map of the deck after you board with your vehicle. You region. may need to wait for the sea to calm if From Punta Arenas, it’s only an hour’s drive weather conditions aren’t good enough to to the end of the road near Cabo Froward cross. (the southernmost point of the Americas) and From here, it’s another two hours to the king while the trek to reach the cross that marks penguin colony at Parque Pinguino Rey, Bahía this point is a five-day round trip, you can Inútil. Home to the only king penguin colony in wander along the beach and stare across the the Americas, this reserve is open from 11am- Strait of Magellan at the looming peaks of Isla 6pm and costs $12,000 CLP/$18 USD. Tour Dawson and Tierra del Fuego Beyond. groups normally arrive around 1pm and 2pm so There are also plenty of wild camping spots try and avoid these times. (unfortunately most covered in rubbish) and a Contine on to Lago Blanco (stop via Russfin beautiful little campsite “A Las Perras” that where there is a petrol station). you’ll find signposted a short distance before you pass through San Juan. Accommodation & Food Alternatively, if you haven’t got camping Stay the night in the extremely comfortable gear, return to Punta Arenas for the night. cabañas at Hosteria Las Lengas (four-person Days 23 to 26: Chilean Tierra del cabin $83,300 CLP/$125 USD, double room Fuego $134,470 CLP/$202 USD). You can order From Punta Arenas, it’s a two-hour drive to the meals in advance, but can alos bring food as ferry crossing at Punta Delgado. Crossing they have fully-equipped kitchens and BBQs. page 8 www.worldlyadventurer.com The next day, take the road down to Lago Deseado where there is an excellent wild camping spot, as well as access to Lago Despreciado via the entrance to Parque Karukinka. You’ll find a five-day hiking trail here (check their website for more information).

Accommodation & Food From Lago Deseado, it’s a few hours’ drive through the mountains to Lago Fagnano where you can pitch up at the campsite at Estancia Lago Fagnano (bookings via [email protected] or +56 9 821 68 388 although they only speak Spanish and it’s probably better to just turn up) or stay in one of their cabins.

Continue to the beautiful Caleta Maria, the edge of a vast fjord or drive to the very end of the road (that is under construction). There are other wild camping spots en route.

Days 26 to 28: Ushuaia

From the end of the road near Lago Fagnano, drive back (via Russfin for fuel) to the border crossing at San Sebastian. You cannot take fresh food across the border (the Chileans are stricter about this than the Argentines) so make sure you plan your food carefully. Don’t try and smuggle anything across – you can end up in serious trouble this way. It’s then around a four-hour drive onwards to Ushuaia. This side of Tierra del Fuego is mostly pampas (grassland) so I would recommend camping or staying in a hostel in Ushuaia. www.worldlyadventurer.com page 9 Spend the afternoon visiting the plethora The next morning, visit Pali Aike, a barely- of museums and cultural attractions in the known national park that is home to strange world’s southernmost city, including Museo volcanic landforms, plenty of guanaco and rheas and even Chilean flamingos and pumas. There Marítimo y Presidio, a museum about the are a few hikes around the park and the history of the region set in the old Ushuaia landscape is stark Patagonian pampas. prison and the Museo Yámana, one dedicated Drive back to Punta Arenas to return the car to the culture of the Yaghan, the now almost and board your onwards flight or travel. extinct southernmost people.

Accommodation & Food

Hostel Los Cormoranes (dorm bed $477 ARS/$28 USD, double $1,300 ARS/$77 USD) is a comfortable option – just be aware that all hostels and hotels are expensive in Ushuaia. There are a few campgrounds in Ushuaia.

The next morning, take the public bus to Tierra del Fuego National Park and hike the Cerro Guanaco Trail, an 8km (five-mile) route that ends at the top of a mountain, with panoramic views across the Strait of Magellan, the Darwin Mountains and the rest of the national park. There are also a number of shorter trails and entry into the park costs around $240 ARS/$14 USD. Days 29 to 31: Pali Aike

From Ushuaia, drive back up to the ferry (around seven hours) and cross over to Punta Delgada town.

Accommodation & Food Stay overnight in the cabañas (cabins) found at Hostal San Gregorio ($15,000 CLP/$22 USD p/p) in Punta Delgada. They also serve a tasty and inexpensive dinner menu and breakfast (both of which are enormous). page 10 www.worldlyadventurer.com