©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 125

Shinjuku & West NISHI- | SHINJUKU | OGIKUBŌ | KICHIJŌJI | MITAKA

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Exploring the crackling 2 Looking out over the 4 Immersing yourself in neon canyons of Shinjuku city from the observatory the imagination of anima- (p134). From the narrow atop the Tokyo Metropoli- tor Hayao Miyazaki at the lanes of seedy Kabukichō tan Government Offices Ghibli Museum (p128) in to the main boulevards, (p127). Mitaka. the light show here and 3 Laying on the lawn at 5 Getting cosy in the bars the sheer volume of dining, Shinjuku-gyoen (p127) of Golden Gai (p133), Shin- drinking and entertainment and gazing up at the juku’s literary and artistic options are something to skyscrapers. hang-out. behold.

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£# Hatsudai -KU Shut o Expwy No 4 £# 0500 m #¦ e# 00.25miles Meiji- jingū Gyoen SENDAGAYA Kokuritsu-Kyōgijō For more detail of this area, see Map p286 A 126 Lonely Planet’s Top Tip Explore Shinjuku & West Tokyo Shinjuku is nothing if not Shinjuku is a whole city within the city. Its breadth and intimidating. Should you scale are simply awesome – over three million people a want to grab a quick bite day pass through the station alone. To the west of the to eat – without having to station is Nishi-Shinjuku (West Shinjuku), a planned brave the crowded streets – district of soaring skyscrapers. The Tokyo Metropolitan head to one of the food Government offices are here, along with many company courts on the top floors of headquarters; it’s full of black-suited office workers. the shopping centres inside East of the train station is one huge entertainment , such as district. Commuters who pass through Shinjuku on Lumine (ルミネ; Map p286; their way home stop off for something to eat and drink, www.lumine.ne.jp/shinjuku; and sometimes stay out until the trains start running Shinjuku Station, Shinjuku-ku; the next morning. Tipplers are spoiled for choice here: h11am-11pm; dJR Yamanote Shinjuku is that rare Tokyo neighbourhood that truly line to Shinjuku, south exit) or has something for everyone. It’s also home to the nation’s

Shinjuku & We Mylord (ミロード; Map p286; ​ largest gay district, Shinjuku-nichōme. www.shinjuku-mylord.com; The JR Chūō line runs west of Shinjuku, to commuter Shinjuku Station, Shinjuku-ku; towns that gradually grow more suburban the further h11am-11pm; dJR Yamanote out you go. Mitaka, a 20-minute train ride from Shinjuku, line to Shinjuku, south exit). is home to the magical Ghibli Museum. Neighbouring Both have more than a Kichijoji has been voted the best place to live in Tokyo for dozen reasonably priced 10 years running; with a fantastic park, Inokashira-kōen,

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Best Places Parks Grassy Shinjuku-gyoen is a popular picnic ¨ 5  to Eat spot; you can sometimes catch performers in ¨¨Nagi (p132) Inokashira-kōen on weekends. Both parks are excellent ¨¨Kozue (p132) for hanami (blossom viewing). ¨¨Nakajima (p132) ¨ Alleyway eats Omoide-yokochō (p129) and Harmonica- yokochō (p129) are two atmospheric old markets where you For reviews, see p129 A can down yakitori (skewers of chicken, and other meats or vegetables) and beer like a local. ¨ Shopping Kōenji (p128) is known for its high 6 Best Places concentration of secondhand clothing stores; Nakano to Drink (p128) is paradise for collectors of old cameras, ¨¨Zoetrope (p133) vintage action figures and more. ¨¨Advocates Café (p133) ¨ Romance The sky-high New York Bar (p135) is ¨¨New York Bar (p135) famous as a date spot, and also for marriage proposals. For reviews, see p133 A Getting There & Away 7 Best Places ¨ Train The JR Yamanote and Chūō-Sōbu lines stop at to Shop Shinjuku Station; Chūō-Sōbu continues west, stopping ¨¨Isetan (p136) at Nakano, Kōenji, Kichijōji and Mitaka. The private ¨¨Disk Union (p136) Keio New line stops at Hatsudai, west of Shinjuku. ¨ Subway ¨¨RanKing The , Shinjuku and Ōedo lines RanQueen (p136) run through Shinjuku. The Marunouchi, Fukutoshin and Shinjuku lines stop at Shinjuku-sanchōme, For reviews, see p136 A convenient for the east side of Shinjuku. For Nishi- Shinjuku (West Shinjuku), Tochōmae Station on the Ōedo line is more convenient.