JULY 2017

Japan’s number one English language magazine

BREAKING THE RULES OF KIMONO A NEW BOOK SHATTERS ANTIQUATED VIEWS OF THIS TRADITIONAL GARMENT

PLUS: The Boys for Sale in Shinjuku, Best Sake of 2017, Japan's New Emperor, and What Really Goes on Inside "Terrace House" To all investors and customers of e Parkhouse series: e Mitsubishi Jisho Residence overseas sales team is on hand for all your needs

For the most up-to-date information about Mitsubishi Jisho Residence's new real estate projects, please visit our English website at www.mecsumai.com/international/en

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Live in a Home for Life. e Parkhouse 34 26 32 36 JULY 2017 JULY

radar in-depth 36 BOYS FOR SALE THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS COFFEE-BREAK READS A new documentary brings to light a particu- lar kind of sex trade in Shinjuku Ni-chome. 8 AREA GUIDE: YURAKUCHO 26 BREAKING THE RULES OF KIMONO This old-school neighborhood has a few A new book shows off the different person- modern surprises up its sleeve. alities of this very traditional garment. guide 14 STYLE 30 THE LIFE AND LOVE OF JAPAN'S CULTURE ROUNDUP Ready for a summer romance? Get your NEW EMPEROR 40 ART & FICTION spark back with some flirtatious swimwear As Emperor Akihito prepares to step down, Julian Lennon shows off his photography, all eyes are turning towards his son. and a new spy novel wends its way into 18 BEAUTY North Korea. Shake up your make-up with a full kit of 32 THE MISUNDERSTOOD CROWS organic, natural cosmetics. OF TOKYO 42 AGENDA Love or hate them, the city's gigantic crows An art aquarium, a dynamic percussion per- 20 TRENDS cannot be ignored. We look at their bond formance, and a Showa-era beer garden. We stop by Japan's Sake Competition to find with Japan, and what they can teach us. out which are the top tipples for 2017. 44 TRAVEL 34 WHAT IT'S REALLY LIKE INSIDE A new market brings Niigata to Tokyo. 22 THE CONCIERGE "TERRACE HOUSE" Editor's picks from our roundup of top res- We chat with the stars to get the inside 46 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES taurants, salons, and services in the city. scoop on this mundane yet addictive show. Tokyo's longest-running society column. JULY 2017

Publisher ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

President Takanobu Ushiyama

Executive Producer Naoya Takahashi

Editor in Chief Annemarie Luck Senior Editors Alec Jordan Lisa Wallin

Creative Director Liam Ramshaw

Features Writer Matthew Hernon

Contributors Vivian Morelli Paul McInnes Stephan Jarvis Bill Hersey Bunny Bissoux

Sales Director Takaaki Murai Sales Executives Hirofumi Ohuchi Kahori Terakawa Ayane Sugawara Azusa Yoshida Mari Saito

Marketing Director Jessica Yumi Idomoto

Media Consultant Mary Rudow Media Producers Claudia Sun Yuda Chou

Cover illustration (Ride on times), Model: Ryoko, Photographer/Stylist/Makeup/Editor: Akira Times Direction: Kimono Times

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970

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Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

4 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER @bapawn: Annemarie, your story about the @bapawn: I think it’s good that the film touches on topics documentary Boys for Sale [page 36] was gutting, but I that are often kept out of public discussion in Japan. couldn’t stop reading until I got to the end. How did you find out about the project? @mizrama: Agreed. Hopefully it will encourage people to examine their opinions about homosexuality, and @mizrama: Yes, it’s a very distressing film to watch, but also put a spotlight on the need for sex education. a very important topic to bring to light – these young boys who are being paid to sleep with older men in @bapawn: In a very different way, as this month’s cover Shinjuku. The director of photography is a friend of goes to show, perceptions have shifted on a topic that’s mine so I knew about it from the start, when he and the quite out in the open in Japan: the kimono [page 26]. executive producer were first exploring the topic. I’m glad to see that the garment is being taken down from its pedestal a little, and becoming a bit more @bapawn: Emotionally, was it a difficult piece to work on? democratized.

@mizrama: It has definitely stayed with me, and I @mizrama: Me too. In our interview with Dr Sheila do find myself thinking of the boys and wondering if Cliffe [author of the book The Social Life of Kimono], they’re okay. But I think it was far more difficult for it feels almost like she’s giving us permission to wear the film makers. They spent three years on the project, the kimono as we would everyday fashion, rather than and hours interviewing each urisen (rent boy). Some reserve it for special occasions. of the stories the boys told are truly heartbreaking. But hopefully by making a documentary like this, they can @bapawn: Well then, I know what I’ll be wearing to our help to shift certain perceptions in and of Japan. next office party…

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TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2017 | 5 6 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR THIS MONTH... It's the perfect time to explore Yurakucho as a new performance theater opens its doors with a dramatic show. Plus: flirtatious summer swimwear, and the best sake of 2017.

TOKYOTOKYO WEEKENDERWEEKENDER || JULYJULY 2017 | 7 AREA GUIDE

UNDER THE TRACKS IN YURAKUCHO Surrounded by the extravagance of areas such as Marunouchi, Ginza, Hibiya and Shimbashi, this old-school neighborhood is something of an island extending in a nar- row strip beneath the Yamanote line. But it does have a few modern surprises up its sleeve…

Words by Paul McInnes. Photos by Stephan Jarvis

GRUB’S UP Yurakucho is a foodie’s paradise. There are chain Shake Shack serves up all kinds of plenty of cafés, bars and restaurants catering juicy goodness, shakes and treats at its newish for those with both tight and expansive budg- restaurant. Lines are to be expected but if the ets. Under the tracks there is the (in)famous thought of hamburger juice running down Yakitori Alley serving up chicken skewers your chin and arms turns you on then it’s a and watered down beer to locals and tourists no-brainer. alike. You can even indulge in authentic Kore- The slightly more refined diner should an barbeque, cheap ramen from ramshackle head to the legendary Shin Hinomoto (aka huts and pick up some fruit and veg from the Andy’s) izakaya run by an Englishman who wee market stalls that dot the area. prides himself on supplying an authentic The really good stuff in the form of sweaty Japanese dining experience. Booze, fish and and gargantuan burgers, however, can be traditional dishes are enjoyed by those in the found just outside Tokyo International Forum know and greedy tourists searching for the (more on TIF later). American hamburger foodie Promised Land.

8 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER INDULGE IN AUTHENTIC KOREAN BARBEQUE, OR CHEAP RAMEN FROM RAMSHACKLE HUTS

TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2017 | 9 FOR THOSE WITH A DEEPER INTEREST IN THE ARTS, HEAD TO THE BRAND-NEW ALTERNATIVE THEATRE

ALL SAY PROST! Although no-one seems to know why there are so many German bars in the area (and even more German/Japanese-style beer halls opening soon), they have huge after-work pulling power for salarymen and women. Not cheap but selling traditional German brews such as Bitburger, Hofbrau and Franziskaner alongside sausages and sauerkraut, pubs Baden Baden and JS Lennep are magnificent if looking for an electrifying atmos- phere and good ol’ knees up. Even better is that they’re located right next to each other so there’s no excuse for not missing your last train home.

HAVE MONEY TO BURN? For those passionate about all things electronic, Yurakucho has a huge Bic Camera branch choc-a- bloc with cameras, smartphones and pretty much everything savvy urbanites require to function in this day and age. Lumine department store caters for elegant and fashion-forward ladies (brands include Alexander Wang, Tomorrowland and Marc by Marc Jacobs) while Hankyu Men’s focuses on the Tokyo dandy (and is one of only two depart- ment stores in Tokyo providing fashion solely for men). If you’re a fashionable gent then the likes of Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, Undercov- er and Thom Browne will have you reaching for

10 | JUNE 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER your gold card in no time. The area also tions. Serving as an exhibition, conference plays host to the Muji flagship store, which and arts center, the space is huge and looms incorporates a restaurant and an outpost of over Yurakucho and surrounding areas. the Loft stationery shop. Muji is the go-to Visitors are free to have a peek around and brand for the low-key and toned-down yet marvel at its magnitude and brilliance. For stylish Tokyoite. those with a deeper interest in the arts, the brand-new Alternative Theatre will be up FAMED ARCHITECTURE AND your street. The wholly renovated venue will host cutting-edge, non-verbal shows A BRAND-NEW THEATER by leading performers. Its inaugural show, The Rafael Vinoly-designed Tokyo Inter- Alata, plays until the end of August and is a national Forum is an architectural gem futuristic, action-packed samurai tale [turn nestled between Yurakucho and Tokyo sta- the page for our full review].

TOKYO WEEKENDER | JUNE 2017 | 11 [ PROMOTION ] A Dramatic Alternative A new performance theater in Yurakucho gives fresh life to a vintage cinema, and celebrates its launch this month with a captivating multimedia show

ovie theaters are often where we go to see Embracing the past while looking forward to the the extraordinary take place: dazzling spe- future is at the heart of Alternative Theatre’s mission, cial effects, actors transforming themselves as Studio Alta president Kazutoshi Tanuma explains. before our eyes, and directors inspiring The company has its roots in television production, but their cast and crew to bring their visions in developing the theater, they’ve had assistance from Mto life. Simply put, we often go to these spaces to escape, experienced hands at companies like the Theater Work- and to feel a true sense of freedom from the everyday. shop and Mitsukoshi Party Management Company. It’s fitting, then, that Yurakucho’s new Alternative Studio Alta’s first show is the captivating multimedia Theatre was a movie theater in its previous incarnation, production Alata, which brings together a variety of art because this theatrical venue is looking to bring that forms – dance, swordplay, and pantomime – to create an same sense of the extraordinary to its audiences. unforgettable theatrical experience. With international Over the last nine months, what used to be a Toei audiences in mind, the entire show will be non-verbal, Cinema has been remodeled into a 410-seat theater and rely on the skill and artistry of cast and crew to cre- that will play home to a variety of shows. The space is ate performances that audiences from around the world equipped with a state-of-the-art sound system, a series of will be able to appreciate and enjoy. catwalks and wire stations that will allow performers to For the more distant future, Tanuma hopes to create soar above the audiences, and 2,700 LEDs that will serve more collaborative shows harnessing the skills and as a dramatic accompaniment to the action on stage. talents of performers from a wide variety of disciplines, There are also certain touches that harken back to but always with a focus on the non-verbal. Given their the space’s Showa origins and to Yurakucho’s historical international focus, they also have a long-term goal of roots as Tokyo’s Broadway. As the elevator doors open partnering with foreign promoters and bringing interna- onto the lobby, the first thing you see is the vintage, tional talent to the Alternative Theatre. crystal-bedecked pillar. This is only one of the many But Tanuma isn’t satisfied with multidisciplinary vintage details that can be found around the theater, theater that breaks boundaries while reaching audienc- and they add to a feeling of comfort that is part of the es from around the world. He’s set an even higher bar Japanese tradition of omotenashi (making guests feel as for the fledgling theater: “Ultimately,” Tanuma says, comfortable as possible), which is one of the pillars of “We want to bring about an entirely new kind of the Alternative Theatre experience. entertainment.”

12 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER BEHIND THE SCENES AT THE OPENING SHOW

he opening day for Alata couldn’t be more fitting: July 7 is the most common day for celebrating Tanabata, a holiday that recognizes DANCE, two celestial lovers, and is a time SWORDPLAY, Twhen magical things are known to happen. The title character of the play is Alata, AND PANTOMIME a shogun from the Sengoku period (1467– COME TOGETHER 1603). In his own time, he was charged with the duty of protecting a princess TO CREATE AN from an evil spirit. Defeated on his mission, Alata finds himself magically transported to UNFORGETTABLE Tokyo and the year 2020. There, he meets THEATRICAL Kokoro, a modern young woman with no fondness for old traditions. As Alata EXPERIENCE struggles to make his way in the modern era, he and Kokoro are pursued by the

kabuki actors, he has taken up the challenge of bringing a completely wordless work to dramatic life. For a theatrical piece that uses no words, music plays a crucial role, which is where the group Mili comes performing in traditional Japanese theater, into focus. The band came to international Saotome is now known as one of Japan’s attention through the hit mobile music game quickest and most talented sword play Deemo, and all of Mili’s album releases have performers. hit the number one spot on Japan’s indie And although the celestial lovers of music chart. Their music, which manages Tanabata, Orihime and Hikoboshi, only get a to evoke both traditional Japan and hyper day to spend with one another, audiences will modern Tokyo, is a perfect counterpoint to be able to enjoy the adventures of Alata and this tale of a time-transplanted samurai. Kokoro for many months to come. It’s a show The two performers who will bring that you don’t want to miss. the lead characters to life are Elina and Yuko Saotome. Elina, who plays Kokoro, ESSENTIAL INFO has starred on stage and screen, and has Alata hits the stage at Alternative Theatre recently returned from a stint in New York, on July 7. further developing her craft as a dancer. Tickets: www.alternative-theatre.jp/en Address: Alternative Theatre Yurakucho Yuki Saotome, her counterpart, made his same spirit that sent Alata into the future. Center Bldg (Yurakucho Mullion) 7F, 2–5–1 stage debut with Japan’s leading theater One of the things that makes Alata Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku. troupe, Gekidan Sujaku, when he was unique is its ability to tell its tale entirely one and a half years old. After years of without words. Whether audiences are marveling at Alata’s intense swordplay, being moved by fast-paced dance routines, or looking up to see performers on wires zooming towards the stage, there’s no language barrier and audiences from around the world will be able to follow the story without missing a beat. We were able to see part of a rehearsal for the show, and the stage positively crackles with energy as the characters brought the captivating story to life with dance, pantomime, and swordplay. The playwright behind Alata is Kensuke Yokouchi, who has penned works that range from Super Kabuki shows and large-scale plays to small, independent works. Together with director Shunichi Okamura, who has produced everyone from idol groups to

Scenes from the Alata stage rehearsal TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2017 | 13 STYLE

GUCCI HEADBAND According to the runways, headbands go in and out of style, but according to our own rules, they’re always appropriate, especially during summer. Hot and muggy Japanese summers require extra steps to stay cool, and headbands are a must-have to fix a frizzy mane and to get that fringe away from your forehead. This silk Gucci headband is adorned with the house’s Flora snake print, which features a serpent winding its way around bouquets of flowers. Both naughty and nice, it’s begging to be stashed in your handbag for impromptu beach trips. gucci.com

GET YOUR SPARK BACK WITH OUR ROUNDUP OF FLIRTATIOUS SWIMWEAR AND HEAD-TURNING POOLSIDE ACCESSORIES

Compiled by Vivian Morelli

ARAKS BIKINI New York-based label Araks uses the most luxurious Italian fabrics to create effortlessly chic lingerie and swimwear. While the brand is mostly known for its sleek undergarments, it’s worth having a look at their swimsuit collection. We especially love this red, plum and pink color-block bikini that combines a flattering triangle top and low-rise briefs. The sculpting, stretchy fabric is even woven with SPF 50+ protection, adding extra shielding to complement all that sunscreen you’ve already slathered on. araks.com MISSONI SWIM SHORTS Renowned for its patterned knitwear, Missoni does everything ranging from clothes, home decor and – you guessed it – swimwear. The Italian house cleverly transformed its iconic woven chevron pattern into print form for this pair of slim-fit swim shorts. Cut from lightweight shell, they come in a few different color combinations, but this tonal blue version is our favorite. The drawstring at the waistband even comes with the signature multicolored zigzag motif, for a full Missoni effect. missoni.com

THOM BROWNE SWIM SHORTS Designer Thom Browne is known for his playful yet edgy designs. For his 2017 spring collection, his inspiration was the classic movie Jaws. These swim shorts pay homage to the 1975 flick with appliquéd sharks and bitten surfboards in red, navy and white, which are also the brand’s signature colors. Crafted in Italy from quick-drying shell, they’re both comfortable and stylish, and they will make for a good conversation starter at the beach. thombrowne.com

STELLA MCCARTNEY MAISON MARGIELA SUNGLASSES Sunglasses are undoubtedly at the top of the “essential summer accessories” SWIMSUIT list. Not only does a pair of stylish frames instantly spruce up an outfit, a good Take a plunge without having to worry set of lenses also protects your peepers against harsh sun rays. This pair from about whether your bikini top will stay on Maison Margiela is a fresh change from the classic aviators: it comes with – this is just one of the pluses of wearing a chunky round frame (this season’s trending look), featuring a silver-hued a full-piece swimsuit. They’re also just a snakeskin effect. Dress down when you wear them and let them take the lot more flattering. One-piece suits have spotlight they deserve. maisonmargiela.com been all the rage over the past few years, and this Stella McCartney number is the perfect balance of trendy and practical. The one-shoulder design is free of clasps or fastenings for a streamlined fit, and the vivid animal print is one of the designer’s signature patterns – let it be yours, too. stellamccartney.com [ PROMOTION ] HOW NIPPON FORM CAN TRANSFORM

YOUR HOME Photos by Chris Mollison Head to the fifth floor of LIVING DESIGN CENTER OZONE to discover a range of furniture and homeware that will infuse your décor with both contemporary design and a touch of traditional craftsmanship

or 20 years, Nippon Form has sought to provide ideal pieces that reflect the evolving lifestyles of modern society. Their selection of furniture Fand homewares retain the strengths of both traditional culture and innovative moderni- ty, making for a collection that neatly unites functionality and style. Visitors will find practical items with a combination of Japa- nese and Western influences, harmonizing beautiful design and purpose.

SHOWROOM STRATEGY The Nippon Form showroom gives visitors a complete idea of how an interior would look, while also allowing you to feel the texture of fabrics and wood surfaces firsthand. Though

the showroom is compact, this makes it easier for those living in small spaces to imagine how to maximize said space. Knowledgeable staff are on call to advise on usage, storage and design options, as well as how to care for items to ensure they last for generations.

MINIMALIST BUT FUNCTIONAL FURNITURE Create a calming space by filling your home with simple, practical pieces of furniture that don’t require a compromise on design. Natural wood furnishings offer a sturdy, traditional feel to contemporary construction, especially when combined with coarse fabrics. Taking Japan’s sometimes miniscule living areas into account,

16 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER HOW TO KEEP YOUR HOME COOL FOR SUMMER Few places emphasize the change of the seasons as much as Japan, and Nippon Form is no exception. The Prep Your MANY ITEMS Place for Summer Living event, which is on during regular ARE CRAFTED TO opening hours at the show- FIT NEATLY INTO room, promotes various ways to keep your home feeling SMALL SPACES naturally cool in the otherwise oppressive city summer heat. Wicker chairs and tables, woven rush accessories, bamboo baskets, wind chimes, and paper fans are just a few of the special seasonal items available during this limited time. Event ends August 6.

bright aquamarine and magenta – offer aesthet- ic charm for any interior.

ONE-OF-A-KIND GIFTS Although furniture is a large part of Nippon Form’s selection, there are plenty of smaller home decor items and accessories to please both the eye and the wallet for the casual souvenir shopper. Furoshiki cloths are both practical and NIPPON FORM, LIVING DESIGN many sofas and chairs are crafted to either compact gift items that showcase contemporary CENTER OZONE neatly fit into small spaces, or have a multi- patterns on traditional fabric. Chopsticks, lac- 5F Shinjuku Park Tower, 3-7-1 functional purpose so as to make the most querware bowls, small porcelain accessories – a Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku-ku of a compact room. cornucopia of items are available to explore and Tel: 03-5322-6620

Web: www.ozone.co.jp/nipponform DESIGNER ITEMS x QUALITY enjoy, making this the place to find a one-of-a- CRAFTSMANSHIP kind, high-quality gift to take home. A unique addition to your home in form and function, as well as a dash of color can change your interior completely. Here, Nippon Form excels with an extensive selection of high-end interior products, including glass- ware, tableware, and even lighting fixtures. The Guinomi series of hand-cut shot glasses from Kamata Kiriko delivers a new perspective to a traditional craft. The glasses gleam with indigo accents and the curved patterns conjure up images of water and waves. Another one-of-a- kind item is the nanbu tetsubin cast-iron kettle, a craft with a history dating back hundreds of years. These sturdy items from Iwate require the utmost care to create, but will last generations. Their playful pop-inspired colors – including

TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2017 | 17 BEAUTY

Words by Annemarie Luck Time for a make-up shake up: toss out the old and fill your beauty bag with these natural and organic brands instead

LIPSTICK BY NATURAGLACE Using organic plant extracts, min- erals and essential oils, Japan-made Naturaglacé products are 100% natural. With a base of olive oil and jojoba oil, this Rouge Drop Moist lipstick goes on smoothly, melting onto the lips, and moisturizing while providing a chic berry hue. ¥3,200, www.naturaglace.jp

FOUNDATION BY TV & MOVIE One of Japanese brand TV & Movie’s bestsellers, the 10 Min Mineral Pow- der Foundation not only protects your skin with SPF40 but also naturally adjusts to suit your skin tone. Best of all, it’s not dry like regular powder foundation as it contains natural oils including argan oil, olive oil and camellia oil. ¥5,500, www.tv-movie.co.jp EYESHADOW BY ALIMA PURE Founded in Portland, Alima Pure MASCARA BY believes in “minimal ingredients AQUA ORGANIC for maximum impact.” This proudly Japanese brand Aqua Organic carbon-neutral brand incorporates was founded in 2014 and pure mineral pigments, nourishing uses fresh fruit extracts in plants oils, and soothing botanicals their natural cosmetics. Even in their luxurious range. Their this mineral mascara, which Luminous Shimmer Eyeshadow is lengthens and separates available at Cosme Kitchen branches lashes beautifully, contains in Tokyo, and our first choice for extracts including grapeseed, summer is this beautifully subtle yuzu fruit, and loquat leaf. Chai color. ¥2,376, alimapure.com, ¥2,700, aqua-cosme.com cosmekitchen.jp

BLUSH BY MIMC Created by Kotobuki Kitajima, MIMC uses 100% mineral and organic ingredi- ents, and aims to “take care of your skin with make-up.” Look out for their 2017 S/S 10th Anniversary Collection, which features this pressed Bio Moisture Cheek color made from minerals, plant serums and natural dye. ¥3,800, www.mimc. co.jp/2017sscollection.php

EYESHADOW BY ZUII ORGANIC

Whether you prefer a smoky eye or a pop of color on your lids, this new Certified Organic Duo Eyeshadow Palette range by Australian brand Zuii satisfies all tastes. The brand’s unique talc-free blend of rose, chamomile and jasmine powders are enriched with natural vitamins and minerals. We can’t wait to try the purple Pout Grape duo. ¥4,800, www.zuiiorganic.com. For a list of stockists in Japan, visit www.zuii.jp TRENDS THE SAKE AWARDS Words by Alec Jordan

Last month we stopped by Sake Competition 2017 to find out which are the top tipples to taste this year

or a beverage with such a long Sake Competition was begun. Drawing sake history (nearly 2000 years!), brewers from around Japan and beyond, the sake’s ingredients are as simple 2017 awards, held in early June, saw a panel as can be: rice, water, a special of beverage connoisseurs – including none type of mold known as kōji, other than Hidetoshi Nakata – appraising Fyeast, and in some cases, distilled alcohol. But more than 1700 sakes produced by 453 differ- from these basic materials, a countless variety ent sake brewers. There were eight awards of different sakes have been brought to life, categories, and we’re sharing the top three generations of brewing families have passed sakes in each – whether you’re new to nihon- down secret recipes over the years, and a long shu or you’re a long-time fan of the tipple, and flavorful history continues to develop. you’ll want to add these to your shopping list. It was with this spirit at heart that Japan’s More info at www.sakecompetition.com

20 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER JUNMAI JUNMAI DAIGINJO

This type of sake has had no extra distilled A full, complex flavored sake made from alcohol added during its brewing, and is JUNMAI rice that has been polished until at least 50 known for its rich, full flavor. GINJO percent of the grain has been removed. THE WINNERS: THE WINNERS: 1 ST Zaku, Honotomo, Shimizu Seizaburo 1 ST Kaiun, Junmai Daiginjo, Doi Brewery Shoten (Mie) 2 ND Zaku, Gennotomo, Shimizu (Shizuoka) 2 ND Tokaizakari, Junmai Seizaburo Shoten (Mie) 3 RD Ugonotsuki, Daiginjo, Tobindori, Koizumi Brewery Tokubetsu Junmai, Aihara Brewery (Chiba) 3 RD Hououbiden, Beccho Shiko, (Hiroshima) Kobayashi Brewery (Tochigi)

SPARKLING GINJO SAKE

Made without the addition of distilled alcohol. Known for its complex flavor, which often has fruity and flowery notes.

THE WINNERS: 1ST Tosashiragiku, Junmai Ginjo, Yamadanishiki, Sento Sake Brewery (Kochi) 2ND Katsuyama, Junmai Ginjo, Ken, Katsuyama Produced using distilled alcohol, which can Sparkling sake gets its bubbles from one of Brewery (Miyagi) 3RD Bijofu, Junmai Ginjo, make for very interesting flavor profiles. These three ways: carbonation, tank fermentation, Yataro, Hamakawa Shoten (Kochi) sakes are highly fragrant with subtle flavors. or bottle fermentation.

THE WINNERS: THE WINNERS: 1 ST Raifuku, Daiginjo, Shizuku, Raifuku 1ST Nanbu Bijin, Awa Sake Sparkling, Brewery (Ibaraki) 2 ND KID, Daiginjo, Heiwa SUPER Nanbu Bijin Brewery (Iwate) 2ND Shu Shu, Brewery (Wakayama) 3 RD Miinokotobuki, PREMIUM Happoseishu, Koganei Brewery (Kanagawa) Daiginjo, Kannokura, Miinokotobuki 3RD Suzune, Happoseishu, Ichinokura Brewery (Fukuoka) Brewery (Miyagi)

LABEL DESIGN DINERS CLUB YOUNG BREWERS’ ENCOURAGEMENT AWARD

These sakes represent the very best that a brewer can achieve – and they have a price tag to match. These three winners caught This prize goes in support of young brewers judges’ eyes as well as their THE WINNERS: – those who are 35 years or younger. taste buds. 1ST Shichiken, Junmai Daiginjo, Onakata, THE WINNER: Tobingakoi, Yamanashi Meijo Brewery THE WINNERS: This year the prize went to Mr Kitahara (Yamanashi) 2ND Kiwamihijiri, Junmai 1ST Echigo Tsurukame, Junmai Daiginjo, from Yamanashi Meijo Brewery in Daiginjo, Tenka no Shisei, Miyashita Koshiwa, Echigo Tsurukame Brewery Yamanashi Prefecture, whose Shichiken Brewery (Okayama) 3RD Katsuyama, Junmai (Niigata) 2ND Yamagata Masamune, Junmai Daiginjo won the top prize in the Daiginjo, Ren, Katsuyama Brewery (Miyagi) Okanjunmai, Mitobe Brewery (Yamagata) Super Premium category. As a part of the 3RD Miyakanbai, Extra Class Junmai Daiginjo, award, Yamanashi Meijo Brewery will Sanmai Hasshi, Kanbai Brewery (Miyagi) receive PR and sales support.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2017 | 21 Looking for a great place to eat, shop, sleep or play in Tokyo? Welcome to Weekender's roundup of recommended restaurants, hotels, stores, salons and more. Here, we share this month's editor's picks, but for the full lineup – as well as reader discounts and special offers – simply head to www.tokyoweekender.com/the-concierge

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22 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER Fujimoto Dental Clinic Owl Café Search t this Ginza-based clinic, which was founded in 1981, you’ll apan is famed for its wide variety of animal cafés, with owl not only receive world-class specialist restorative and per- cafés being one of the latest to join the lineup. This new iodontal dental care, but you’ll also be in the expert hands website provides all the information you need on where to of Dr Kohei Fujimoto. He is fluent in English, a graduate of find one of these feathery creatures to pet while sipping on a Athe University of Washington’s Graduate Periodontics Program, and Jcuppa. Launching their English site this month, Owl Café Search lets certified as a Diplomate of the American Board of Periodontology. you search by area, and includes details such as price, opening hours, Appointments can be made via phone. and contact info for each café listed.

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TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2017 | 23 high-tech functions WE ASKED HOW YOU The top-rated feature of Japanese baths eg. auto water reheating. Meanwhile, 109 people said Japanese baths FEEL ABOUT JAPAN'S should be longer and larger. BATHING CULTURE.

The number of respondents who said that their bathroom HERE'S WHAT back home contained a bath tub, shower and toilet in the YOU SAID... same room (unlike in Japan).

In April, The Noritz Group, one of Japan's leading water heater companies, asked Tokyo Weekender TOP READERS’ readers to take a short survey to share your opinions and experiences with regards to the bathing customs COMMENTS of Japan, including at home, sento (public baths), and onsen (hot spring baths). From over 600 responses, AND NOW FOR YOUR MOST we've whittled down the data to bring you the biggest changes since ENTERTAINING SUGGESTIONS… insightful – and sometimes entertaining – results. moving to japan "The sound of the bath 1. I bathe more often 2. I bathe at night now controller is too loud; every 3. I bathe for longer time we use it our dog barks like crazy." Were surprised to learn that Japanese people commonly share bath water and "I wish I could turn on the bath time with family members. 70% of respondents said they bathe alone. water from the bath itself. The control button is in the kitchen for some reason..."

"I would like an app on my Those who have been to a sento. The percentage smartphone to start running Although only 30% said they regularly from North use both home and public baths. America who tend or heat up my bath!" to bathe at night, while people from Asia tend to bathe "Have beer vendors walking in the morning. around the onsen? That would be pretty silly though."

"I only wish they allowed tattoos. Some of us have small tattoos and got rejected at some onsen." SO WHAT DID WE ULTIMATELY LEARN FROM THE SURVEY?

fter 66 years in the bathing possible to automatically clean the bath tub, "All I know is pressing a biz, Noritz told us they were fill the water and maintain the temperature button to run a bath has interested "to discover that with just one switch. Also look out for their changed everything! And international residents enjoy newly launched high-efficiency gas water living closer to a Lush. Bath taking baths as much as people heater, the Eco Jozu GT-C2462 series, which Awho grew up in Japan." carries a UV sterilization unit on the water bombs are my life now." Following on from some of the feedback heater itself to prevent bacteria growing in received, they'll be focusing their atten- residual water. "More signs in proper tion on adding to their range of high-tech features – for example, the Osouji Yokuso For more information about The Noritz English, widely available in (bath tub cleaning) feature, which makes it Group, go to www.noritzglobal.com/en onsen and sento."

24 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER SHIFTING PERCEPTIONS This month: a shocking documentary challenges traditional opinions on sexuality in Japan (above and page 36), a new book shatters antiquated views on the kimono (page 26), and why the crows of Tokyo don't really deserve their "bad boy" image (page 32).

TOKYOTOKYO WEEKENDERWEEKENDER || APRILJULY 2017 | 25 BREAKING THE RULES OF KIMONO A NEW BOOK BY DR SHEILA CLIFFE SHOWS OFF THE DIFFERENT PERSONALITIES OF THIS VERY TRADITIONAL YET OFTEN MISCONCEIVED GARMENT

Words by Lisa Wallin

26 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER EVERY GARMENT I WEAR IS A STORY, AND I’M JUST ANOTHER CHAPTER IN THAT GARMENT’S STORY

also much more connected with nature, climate, the seasons and place. Also, a dress or a shirt and pants are kind of a done deal. You can add some earrings or something, but what you buy is basically what you wear. If I buy 50 obi, then that’s 50 different outfits with this one kimono. That’s fasci- nating to me. Anyone who loves the idea of putting an outfit together will become hooked on kimono.” On her own kimono-wearing style, Cliffe says, “Contrast works with kimono. I limit the number of colors I use, and those colors are almost always opposites on the color circle. I don’t look at any of the magazines telling you what’s right or wrong. If I look at those, I know I’m going to end up dressing the same as everyone else. When you do that, you lose all the power of expression. I go my own way. I think it’s normal and ordinary, but people seem to think it’s inter- esting. I suppose dressing is my art.” Cliffe also mentions that kimono are usually inherited, connecting people across generations. Silk is said to last a hundred years, which is roughly equal to three gen- erations. Given its long life and the fact that silk kimono are kept for formal occasions and thus remain in good condition, being able to wear a hundred-year-old kimono is not unusual. Cliffe explains, “I pick up the old ones and wear them until they fall apart.

imono has long been analysis of past and present ki- pigeon-holed as the mono wearers, as well as makers “national costume” and craftsmen in the industry, of Japan, and largely indicates kimono is part of a ignored by Western complete fashion system sepa- Kfashion academics who view it rate from the West. as an unchanging garment that Cliffe’s passion for kimo- simply serves the purpose of no is infectious, and her deep covering the body. It is clothing, knowledge on the subject – both but it isn’t considered fashion. academically and aesthetically Dr. Sheila Cliffe, who moved – is nothing less than inspiring. from Bristol to Japan in 1985 and When asked what kimono means is a professor at Jumonji Gakuen to her, Cliffe tells Weekender: Women’s University in Saitama, “It’s fashion, very simply. But aims to shatter this antiquated it’s far more interesting than and Eurocentric view of the Western fashion, for a lot of rea- kimono in her book The Social sons: it’s slow and it’s three-di- Life of Kimono. Spoiler alert: she mensional. It caters to multiple succeeds. Her in-depth social audiences because of that. It’s

TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2017 | 27 Unfortunately, I haven’t inherited any from my own mother, but every garment I wear is a story, and I’m just another chapter in that garment’s story. I’m the last chapter – or almost, at least. When I can’t wear a kimono anymore, I cut it up to make kimono collars or recycle it into other things. Each time it changes context, another story is added to the life of the kimono.” Cliffe’s view of kimono as a fashion item to enjoy and play with may seem obvious now, but it wasn’t always an easily accessi- ble culture. The Internet has played a large role in the spread of interest in kimono, and in turn, bending its rules. Cliffe explains: “Before the Internet, kimono knowledge was trapped within the industry, especially with kimono dressing schools. The schools were how to wear kimono – now it’s older wom- keeping it a closely guarded secret, but they en teaching younger women who are their didn’t realize that raising the bar to kimono friends. “It’s a return to a more natural wearing so high was actually strangling way of sharing the knowledge,” says Cliffe. the whole industry. It was only because Thanks to the Internet, the interest the information started to leak out that the REVISING HOW in kimono has also grown overseas, with kimono revival could happen.” PEOPLE FRAME people meeting up to wear the garment The kimono revival found its way and discuss its care, how to accessorize through a worldwide boom in Asian culture THE KIMONO IS it, and more. Cliffe met with one of the in the early Nineties. Interest for all things CRITICAL FOR groups, Kimono de Jack, in Birmingham. Japanese increased at home, whether it was “When I went to interview them, I was keeping goldfish instead of tropical fish, or IT TO REMAIN A petrified at first. I didn’t know what I an indoor bonsai garden. Along with that, FASHION ITEM IN would be dealing with. But everyone interest in yukata grew, and from yukata to wore their kimono beautifully and had kimono. As with most fashion movements, THE FUTURE even come up with new ways of tying obi young women led the way, but with one knots, which is fascinating. That’s how difference: the knowledge of how to wear ki- far the information has leapt out. And mono was held by older women. Previously, this is without ever having stepped foot in mothers would have taught their daughters Japan!”

28 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER The Web always had its has also helped own fashion, create a medium unrelated to the for homegrown West. I wanted to kimono influenc- tell the users’ and ers who reside wearers’ story. outside of Japan’s The international bigger cities. One wearers only in particular, have part of that Akira Times [who story, through created the image photos and web- on this issue's sites with geisha cover], breaks the on them. If you’re mold of the image going to have a of the traditional photo taken, then kimono wearer. you wear a fancy He says people are kimono and that looking for culture creates a distor- in the wrong plac- tion in the data. es because they I wanted to tell are looking to the the real stories of past and trying to real women.” preserve it, rather This was than making how Cliffe’s bi- something new. He believes in breaking ste- lingual project, Kimono Closet, was born. reotypes and taboos to create something that This ongoing project catalogues women’s never existed before. He and Cliffe agree kimono wardrobes as well as their stories that revising how people frame the kimono behind certain kimono, their influences, is critical for it to remain a fashion item in and their challenges. For Cliffe, her social the future, and the Internet is one way to study of kimono has only just begun. help spread knowledge and style ideas. WHERE TO BUY However, even with all the knowledge online, some things still get lost in translation. & HOW TO WEAR For Cliffe’s book, she interviewed 50 interna- While the media would have us believe tional kimono wearers and 50 Japanese kimo- the kimono industry is dying, Cliffe no wearers. The difference in their collections insists this isn’t the case. “There are was remarkable. While Japanese enthusiasts some kimono that are only made in had wardrobes with raw silk and komon (a certain places because of the weather casual kimono with all-over patterns) for or because the techniques are so everyday wear, international wearers had exacting that only a few older people completely different collections. “They had remember how to do it. Those types are so many gorgeous kimono, but they were The Social Life of Kimono is available on endangered, but kimono isn’t dying. It’s changing. There are a lot of new very formal and with very few uses for them. Amazon.co.jp for ¥3,226. For more info and successful businesses out there. It’s I understand why, though. They’re coming about Dr. Sheila Cliffe and her projects, vis- fashion, and fashion changes. There’s from the outside, from a visual aspect, and it www.kimonocloset.com. Also, find her on nothing wrong with that.” So, where to those are the ones that make the strongest Instagram: @kimonosheila and YouTube: get your kimono kicks in Tokyo? Here impression. I wanted to show that Japan has Kimono World. are three recommended spots…

GALLERY KAWANO Extensive selection of vintage kimono, obi and haori (jacket), with sizes available to suit the taller shopper. Flats Omotesando 102, 4-4-9 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, www.gallery-kawano.com

KIMONO, REMADE: TOKYO KALEIDOSCOPE For those who love kimono patterns and fabrics but aren’t keen on the traditional way of wearing them, Lia makes stunning modern-day bespoke creations from vintage kimono. www.tokyokaleidoscope.com

HISUI TOKYO This school offers lessons not only in kimono dressing, but also tea ceremony, calligraphy and sword training in the heart of Ginza. 5F Koizumi Bldg., 4-3-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku, en.hisui-tokyo.com THE LIFE AND LOVE OF JAPAN’S NEW EMPEROR Words by Matthew Hernon

As Emperor Akihito prepares to step down, all eyes are turning towards his son and successor, Crown Prince Naruhito. Here, we reflect on his relatively down-to-earth upbringing, the freedom he felt while living in England, and whether his wife, who has battled for years to adjust to palace life, is ready to take on the role of empress

fter almost three decades as the ceremonial figurehead what do we know about the heir apparent to the Chrysanthemum of Japan, Emperor Akihito has been given permission Throne? Here’s a look at the life and times of the future emperor. to step down. The 83-year-old, who has undergone heart surgery and had treatment for prostate cancer, THE NARU-CHAN CONSTITUTION noA longer feels he can carry out his duties properly. A one-off bill The eldest son of Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko, Naruhito has been passed by the government allowing him to renounce was born in a makeshift hospital at the palace on February 23, the throne. It will be Japan's first abdication in more than two 1960. His mother – the first commoner to marry into the imperial centuries, with the baton being passed on to his son, Crown Prince family – decided to raise Naruhito and his siblings, Prince Akishino Naruhito. The exact date of the succession has yet to be confirmed, and Sayako Kuroda, herself, even breastfeeding them. While that though reports have suggested it will take place on January 1, may not sound noteworthy, at the time it was considered signifi- 2019. Naruhito will become the 126th emperor in the world's old- cant as the everyday care of royal children had previously been est hereditary monarchy, a line dating back to the 5th century. So, the duty of wet nurses and maids. When his parents were away Naruhito Around the city Naruhito would Despite this, Naruhito was still deter- would be left with nannies who were usually wear jeans, much to the surprise mined to wed Masako. Unfortunately, she given written instructions by Michiko on of Japanese tourists. His casual attire got wasn’t so keen. Twice she turned down how to take care of him. He was allowed him turned away from a nightclub, yet that his proposals as it would mean giving up a no more than one toy at a time and had to didn't put him off. He went to a different budding career as a diplomat for the con- be hugged at least once a day. This list of club at a later date, dancing with girls until strained life of a princess. Not one to give rules was turned into a best-selling book 2am. “Perhaps this was the first and last in, Naruhito tried a third time and finally titled Naru-chan Kenpo (The Naruhito disco I would go to in my life,” he remarked. got his wish. Constitution) that’s still popular today. In October 1985 Naruhito departed Speaking at a press conference after From all accounts, Naruhito was from the UK. “As the London scene gradu- their wedding in 1993, Crown Princess said to have had a happy and relatively ally disappeared from view I realized that Masako said, “His Highness told me that normal upbringing, especially when an important chapter in my life was over. ‘you may have many worries and anxieties compared to his ancestors. His father A new page was opening, but I felt a large about entering the imperial house, but I allegedly gave him a hand-me-down uni- void in my heart, and as I stared out of the will do everything in my power to protect form to wear to school and told teachers window of the plane I had a lump in my you as long as I live.’” not to give him any special treatment. throat.” Despite the support of her husband, The young prince enjoyed watching Masako has struggled with life as a royal. baseball, hiking and skiing. IN PURSUIT OF A PRINCESS Under pressure to produce a male heir, Back in Japan, Naruhito’s activities were she miscarried in 1999. Two years later CLUBBING, PUB CRAWLS AND far more constricted, and being in his Princess Aiko was born; however, as Ja- TEA WITH THE QUEEN mid-twenties he was under pressure to find pan operates under a system of agnatic In 1983, a year after graduating from Ga- a bride. He could reportedly choose one primogeniture, this did little to solve the kushuin University, Naruhito decided to himself, but she had to meet the approval succession problem. It was all getting too move to the UK where he did a master’s of a committee of palace officials. The plan much for the future empress. degree on the history of transportation was to have him married off before reach- Speaking to journalists in 2004, Naruhi- on the River Thames at Oxford Univer- ing 30, yet despite numerous candidates to said, “Princess Masako still faces ups and sity’s Merton College. More important being put forward the prince remained downs in terms of her health. She’s worked than his classroom studies, however, single at 32. hard to adapt to the environment of the were the life lessons he learnt during his Imperial Household for the past decade, two years in Britain. but from what I can see, she's completely For the first time, the prince had to exhausted herself in trying to do so.” fend for himself and seemed to revel I FELT A LARGE VOID It was announced that Masako was suf- in it. In his book, The Thames and I: A fering from adjustment disorder, a mental Memoir of Two Years at Oxford, he wrote, IN MY HEART, AND AS condition brought on by stress, making it “This had been a happy time for me – I STARED OUT OF THE difficult for her to carry out official duties. The birth of Prince Hisahito – son of the perhaps I should say the happiest time of WINDOW OF THE PLANE my life.” The autobiographical account, crown prince’s brother and third in line for whilst not exactly hard-hitting, gives I HAD A LUMP IN MY the throne – reduced some of the pressure. Her condition is said to have improved a fascinating insight into the personal THROAT escapades of a man whose privacy is slightly in recent years, but public ap- usually closely guarded. pearances remain sporadic. Whether that Much of his first week in England will change when she becomes empress was spent in the company of the royal remains to be seen. family, including the Queen, who im- His first choice was Harvard graduate As for Naruhito, this is a role he has pressed him with her laid-back manner Masako Owada, whom he pursued for six been preparing for since childhood. His and the fact that she poured him a cup of years after they met at a banquet for the amiable father, ably supported by wife tea herself. Shortly after, he moved into Duchess of Lugo in 1986. Coming from Michiko, is held in high regard for prior- a shared dormitory in Oxford where he a wealthy family, she ticked most of the itizing disaster victims, championing the learnt how to iron and use the coin laun- committee’s boxes: highly educated, multi- cause of marginalized people and attempt- dry machine, though his first attempt at lingual and, crucially, slightly shorter than ing to reconcile with countries affected by the latter ended with him almost flood- the prince. Japan’s colonialism and wartime aggres- ing the room. One problem was the controversy sur- sion. The hope is that his son will devote One of his favorite pastimes was dis- rounding her maternal grandfather, Yutaka himself to the role of emperor in a similar cussing music over a few pints. He even Egashira. He was the former chairman fashion. went on a few pub crawls. The prince of Chisso Corporation, a chemical compa- apologizes to the British public for not ny that dumped mercury-laden getting to grips with the rules of cricket, industrial waste into but did participate in many British the bay off Minamata sports such as tennis and rowing. It was in Kyushu, leading to an exciting time for a man who, under the onset of Minamata normal circumstances, can barely move Disease. Thousands without asking for permission. were affected by the “I met the crown prince twice,” says neurological syndrome, social anthropologist Joy Hendry. “On which in extreme cases, the second occasion, I sat opposite his led to insanity, paralysis personal body guard who told me how and death. Though not much the prince loved being in Oxford directly involved in the because he could walk about in the scandal, Egashira’s associ- streets and the local market where no- ation with Chisso was seen body recognized him, which made him as potentially damaging feel free like any other student.” for the imperial family. THE MISUNDERSTOOD CROWS OF TOKYO Love or hate them, the city’s gigantic crows cannot be ignored. To make sense of their place in the concrete jungle, we look at their longheld connection with Japan, and some surprising lessons we can learn from these sometimes smart, sometimes foolish “urban guerrillas of birds”

Words by Alec Jordan

n Japan, the public perception of crows got off to a pretty good start: According to the Kojiki and the Nihonshoki, two of Japan’s oldest written records, a gigantic crow known as the Yatagarasu guided the mythical first emperor of Japan to the part of the country now known as Nara. This crow, Iwhich is often depicted with three legs, can be found at the Kuma- no shrines of Japan, and even more commonly, on the uniforms of the Samurai Blue – Japan’s national soccer team. But even though they have been common figures in art from well before the Edo period, crows are generally seen with a mixed perspective in Japan. On one hand, you have the traditional song “Yuyake Koyake,” which plays on loudspeakers every afternoon and whose lyrics tell us return home like the crows return to their roosts in the trees, but there are also still the associations of the birds with death – even today, there is a superstition that if a crow perches on a house at night and calls out, someone in that house will die before long. We may be happy to return home like crows – as straight as they fly – but we don’t necessarily want them roosting with us. Today, perhaps, the biggest problem that people face with crows around Tokyo is trying to keep them out of their garbage. And the birds can cause other kinds of trouble as well: the Tokyo Metropolitan Government receives some 600 calls a year from Tokyoites who’ve been attacked by crows – most often in spring, around the time when the birds are hatching their eggs and rais- ing their newborn young. Nonetheless, crows have their fans in Tokyo, just as they do everywhere around the world. Why? It could be their intelligence – crows know how to use tools, they recognize human faces, and they’ve even been observed to hold what look to be funerals. It might be their distinctive voices: crows and their larger cousin the ravens are believed to possess some of the most complicated vocabulary of calls of any bird. Or maybe it’s a shared sense of play. The birds have been seen using wind currents like chil- dren might use waterslides, throwing paper to themselves, going body surfing on snowy banks, and playing with balls. It was probably a combination of these traits, as well as their sheer number, that drew a filmmaking couple, Kris Samuelson and John Haptas, to devote a few years to the crows of Tokyo. They got their first exposure THE CROW HAS to the birds when they were returning from AN OUTSIDE teaching in Southeast Asia and stopped for a while in Tokyo. As they explained, “there was PERSPECTIVE, a garden where we were staying and we were amazed by the huge number of crows we AND SEES RIGHT heard and saw. We were intrigued and began THROUGH OUR noticing them everywhere we went.” Samuelson and Haptas returned home BEAUTY AND OUR to Northern California, intent on learning UGLINESS more about city crows – “the urban guerrillas of birds,” the couple calls them – in general, and about Tokyo’s crows in particular. A short visit to Japan to shoot a funding clip followed, and a year and a half later, the couple received a Japan-US Creative Arts Fellowship that allowed them to spend five months in Japan shooting what would become Tokyo Waka. In the words of the filmmakers, the documentary is “an essay about man and nature coexisting in a megalopolis.” Its sub- To this day, he remains impressed jects include scientists, nature lovers, artists, by their attitudes, which he often likens a homeless woman, Shinto and Buddhist to those of humans, and their “limitless priests, and, of course, Corvus macrorhy- ability to adapt to any environment.” And nchos: the jungle crow, also known as the despite the city’s best efforts to control the large-billed crow. We see them building nests crow population, he believes that crows stay fed alongside human beings, he thinks with hangers stolen from people’s balconies, have done quite well in the city. Matsubara that crows are geniuses: “In Tokyo, [when it chased away by the bees that make the honey estimates that the crow population in Tokyo comes to feeding strategies] crows can adapt that is sold through the Ginza Bee Project, is somewhere between 18,000 (the official to human behavior very quickly – some- and at play in the city’s many parks. The film estimate of the Tokyo Metropolitan Govern- times within some minutes.” has its darker moments – we see a crow that ment) and 100,000. Perhaps one of the things that attracts has been trapped by the Tokyo Metropolitan As Tokyo Waka explains, trapping and us to crows is that they give us a seemingly Government and bagged for euthanization, gassing crows has been the official city limitless opportunity to interpret their be- for example – but these scenes all help to policy for keeping the crow population havior. For example, even though Matsubara draw a fuller picture of the interaction down, but Matsubara doesn’t believe this is watches his research subjects with a scien- between humans and the animals they share the best long-term approach (and not just tist’s eye, he says that he’s noticed two things the city with. because the crows are getting wiser to the that humans can learn from the resourceful As one of the film's subjects states, city’s traps). “I think garbage control is the crow: “‘Make the most of every opportunity "Japan has a love of nature, but it’s a kind of most successful way. Because, if their food and be careful in seeking them out’” and nature that is moderated by mankind – not resource is decreased, their reproductive ‘Love is forever.’ Why? Because crows eat necessarily a 'wild' nature." And that’s why success and survival rate must decrease. everything – even if it is garbage. And crow the crow is a complicated beast for Tokyo: it If we continue piling up garbage bags on pairs seldom separate.” is inadvertently “raised” on what we throw the street and keep carrying capacity high, And, after all, who’s to say that the crows away, but we really can’t control it, despite nothing can stop the crows from breeding aren’t considering us, as we go about our our best efforts. and coming into Tokyo from other places in days? Akiyoshi Taniguchi, a Buddhist priest Another figure who is equally fascinated Japan.” at Chohouin Temple in Kuramae, who was by the city’s crows is Hajime Matsubara, When asked about their intelligence, he interviewed for Tokyo Waka – and who had an Affiliate Associate at Tokyo University's responds cautiously: “That’s a very difficult a prize goldfish taken from the temple pond Intermediatheque. His first early exposure to question, because they are very smart by a crow – strikes a philosophical note as he the birds set him on the course of research in some aspects and very foolish when it muses about how the crows of Tokyo might that has become part of his life’s work: “One comes to other matters. For example, crows look at the two-legged creatures they share day in my childhood, I heard a flock of crows are insightful and capable of long-term the city with: “They are observing us in their cawing to each other, on the way to their planning. Their cousins, the common raven own way. The crow has an outside perspec- roost. It looked as if they were talking, so I have shown researchers that they can tive, and sees right through our beauty and tried to call them, imitating their call. A few figure out how to untie bow knots simply our ugliness.” seconds later, two or three crows ‘replied.’ by watching other individuals’ behavior. Of course, I’m not sure that they really called But, for example, they don’t recognize their For more information about Tokyo Waka, back or were calling to each other for their own mirror images, which is something visit www.stylofilms.com/tokyowaka.html. To own purposes. Anyway, that was an impres- that even pigeons can do.” However, when learn more about the Intermediatheque, visit sive experience for me.” it comes to feeding, and figuring out how to www.intermediatheque.jp/en

TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2017 | 33 ©Fuji Television Network Inc./East Entertainment WHAT IT’S REALLY LIKE INSIDE TERRACE HOUSE

The Japanese reality TV show has been described as both boring and fascinating, and has gathered a cult following abroad. Matthew Hernon chats with the stars amazing. I loved all the trips, dates and small to find out what it’s like on the inside things like eating dinner with everyone in the evening. Living with strangers is nerve-wrack- ing, but you soon get used to it. Dealing with fly-on-the-wall reality show go wrong," he says, smiling. "Not everyone the criticism wasn't so easy, though." focusing on six, mostly polite wants to see these models and athletes Unlike Big Brother, Terrace House mem- Japanese people living together succeeding. I prefer to focus on their flaws, bers are well aware of what's being said about without a competitive angle: which some people like, while others tweet them. In the first series, they would watch the Terrace House doesn't sound par- me to say I'm being too harsh. The passion program on TV at the same time as viewers ticularlyA captivating. Fairly calm and undra- people have for the show is great. I espe- and then check social media to gauge the matic, the participants have little interest in cially love getting messages from abroad." public's reaction. backstabbing or causing rifts like they do in Since premiering on Netflix with Eng-

Western reality programs, yet somehow the lish subtitles two years ago, Terrace House ©Fuji Television Network Inc./East Entertainment concept works. It's mundane and addictive has garnered a cult following globally, and at the same time. as Netflix Japan content manager Kaata "There are conflicts in the house, but Sakamoto told Buzzfeed News, it has "ex- they're dealt with in a quiet, considered way ceeded expectation in terms of internation- which can be even scarier than something al viewership." explosive," comedian Ryota Yamasato tells Weekender. "I think it gives a fascinating BOYS X GIRLS: NEXT DOOR and realistic insight into modern Japanese The program first aired on Fuji TV in 2012 society and the way people interact here. I'm and immediately did well in the ratings. One not typical in that sense so it's an interesting of the most talked about and outspoken of the learning experience for me." original housemates was Seina Shimabukuro Yamasato, or Yama-chan as he's better whose drunken escapades in the first 29 epi- known, is one of six commentators on the sodes caused quite a stir. Despite leaving mid- show who watch and analyze the week's way to pursue a career in modeling (house- main events. He's the cynical one of the mates can choose when they depart), things group, taking pleasure in the misfortune of didn't turn out as planned so she returned to the housemates, particularly when relation- the show, and ended up staying until the end. ships turn sour. "I don't dislike people fall- "I was there a long time, probably too ing in love, it's just more fun when things long for some," she says, laughing. "It was

Yuto Handa 34 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER ©Fuji Television Network Inc./East Entertainment ©Fuji Television Network Inc./East Entertainment

"It was scary," says Shimabukuro. "I love Yama-chan, but he could be quite harsh. You then had to deal with negative comments online. People wrote about me drinking so I thought about trying to hide my wine behind the cameras. I decided not to, though, as there's no point pretending to be someone you're not." Japanese-American artist Frankie Cihi also received her share of online abuse. "I was trolled on Twitter," she says. "Early on I was seen as pushy which didn't go down well. The worst comments came from Taylor Swift fans. Her song was in the opening credits so the producers arranged for us to interview her. Being the English speaker, I asked the questions and her followers didn't like it. They were really offended when I in Hawaii they tend to immediately say posted a picture posing with their goddess. what's on their mind. It took me longer I even had death threats." to get into this one, but now I love it." Despite this, Frankie has no regrets about Massachusetts-born illustrator and appearing on the show. "I gained so much model Lauren Tsai caused the biggest buzz confidence from it," she says. "It's a program early on. Touted as the future It girl of that lets you be yourself without much in- Japan, she came across as cool and mysteri- terference. Early on people had their doubts ous, yet surprisingly awkward and at times about me because I seemed bitchy, but once I DON'T DISLIKE looked uncomfortable. they got to know my real character they real- Speaking to hyperbae.com she said, ized I was harmless. My mother [actress Aki PEOPLE FALLING "I would watch the show and think 'Oh my Mizusawa] saw that I was being well-received God!' is that me? Am I really like that? I hate and reached out to me. Before that we weren't IN LOVE, IT'S JUST myself.' Everything people see about us on on good terms so that was probably the big- social media is what we choose to put out gest positive from the whole experience." MORE FUN WHEN there. Being on a reality TV show you have no control over what's put in or how it's BOYS & GIRLS IN THE CITY THINGS GO WRONG cut. For someone like me who's not super- Frankie was also a fan of the following outgoing it was ... an experience." series, which was coproduced by Netflix and Since Lauren's departure, Taishi Tamaki Fuji TV. Her favorite housemate was Yuto has taken center stage. Initially it seemed Handa (Hansan) whom she says, "listened Hayato Terashima away from the cameras. like the wannabe Hollywood actor would intently, always knew what to say and spoke "This was the defining moment of the be a calming influence in the house, but with good diction." series," says Yama-chan. "Young Japanese at times he's come across as an emotional The aspiring architect was the father- idols are expected to be pure so it's no wreck. The fact that he's dated pretty much figure in the house, relieving tensions and surprise Riko tried to hide the relationship every girl who's entered has annoyed some, lending an ear when other members had with Hayato. The other housemates knew while others have found it entertaining. problems. In the eyes of commentators Reina what was happening so [they] decided to "Taishi's the star of Aloha State," says Triendl and Yukiko Ehara he could no wrong. confront them. For the sake of her career Yama-chan. "He keeps saying he's looking

©Fuji Television Network Inc./East Entertainment The latter even cried when he left. it would have been easy for the produc- for a love worth dying for and is clumsily "I appreciate the praise, but of course I'm tion team to gloss over it, but I'm glad they running out around asking everyone out. not perfect," Hansan tells Weekender. "People didn't. This is an unscripted reality show It's great to watch." evaluated me on the way I thought and be- so it was important that viewers saw how Twenty-year-old Niki Niwa was target- haved in the house, yet we all have different it developed." ed by Taishi soon after arriving. "At first, I sides and I'm no different." thought it was good he was being proactive Yama-chan wasn’t a fan. He’d have pre- ALOHA STATE in trying to get to know the women," she tells ferred to have seen more of Hansan's ugly side. With interest from abroad growing it was Weekender. "The problem is he didn't say "He already had a girlfriend and basically did decided that the third and current series what he was thinking so the girls got con- nothing wrong," says the comedian. "I felt he should have more of an international fused. That's what happened to me." Niki soon didn't need to be there. Natsumi [Saito] was far feel. Set in the tropical island of Oahu in turned her attention to professional surfer more interesting. She was like a dark heroine." Hawaii, there are many Japanese-Ameri- Guy Sato, though as her time in the house was Not afraid to speak her mind, Natsumi can housemates, most of whom can speak limited things went no further than a kiss. caused a few arguments and a meeting was English (though they usually converse So, was that her favorite moment? “I called to discuss her behavior. There were in Japanese). It’s created a different vibe loved it all,” she says. “Staying up late chat- many of these kinds of meetings throughout the from earlier seasons. ting and watching films, the whole experi- series, including one where everyone sat down "It's fascinating to watch the contrast," ence. I cherish every moment I spent there to talk about some meat that had been taken says Yama-chan. "In Japan, there was lots and really miss it." without permission. Then there was the case of of pent-up frustration amongst the house- Terrace House Aloha State is now streaming teenage idol Riko Nagai carrying on with chef mates that eventually came out, whereas on Netflix, and showing on Fuji Television.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2017 | 35 BOYS FOR SALE A SHOCKING NEW DOCUMENTARY BRINGS TO LIGHT A PARTICULAR KIND OF SEX TRADE HAPPENING IN SHINJUKU NI-CHOME, WHERE YOUNG, MOSTLY STRAIGHT BOYS ARE BEING PAID TO SLEEP WITH OLDER MEN

Words by Annemarie Luck

36 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER effects of Fukushima’s nuclear meltdown. In making Boys for Sale, which enjoyed THE BOYS ARE a sold-out screening for its world premiere INTERVIEWED INSIDE in June at the Nippon Connection festival THE SEX ROOMS, GIVING in Frankfurt, the pair THE VIEWER A PRECISE spent a full year just visiting different bars PICTURE OF THE TINY, in Ni-chome, getting to know the community, RUDIMENTARY SPACES and finding out how THEY’RE CONFINED TO the male sex industry works. “We had to EVERY NIGHT build up some trust there, and convince them that we would protect their identities reasons. “At first, the masks were a way of if they wanted us to,” just trying to disguise their identities in a explains Storey. By the visually interesting way,” says Ash. “In the time filming began, end we realized that giving them the masks some of the boys had, to wear possibly helped them to talk more surprisingly, agreed to honestly.” reveal their identity on It’s this honesty, in all its brutality, that camera. “I think this makes the film such compelling – and at was partly because peo- times distressing – viewing. The camera ple had come to know switches between the boys throughout, us and they understood with each of them answering the same oys for Sale is not a comfortable that this wasn’t just parachute journalism,” questions. Even though they are filmed in- watch. From the documentary’s says Storey. “But it’s also because they had dividually, the story is carried through their very first scene in which a former had time to reflect on what they were doing, shared experiences, which see-saw between straight male sex worker reveals and they felt that sharing their story was exclamations of how much fun it is living how he could bring himself to important perhaps because of what they’d in the dormitory together (eight of them in Bhave sex with men (“Money makes you learnt about themselves, and how their work a seven-mat room) to horrific accounts of hard”) to the heartbreaking sentiment of one had affected their opinions on things like being gang-raped. Although you never see boy who has not yet turned 20 but states, “I homosexuality.” them with customers, they are interviewed don’t want to live a long life,” the shocking Those who chose not to show their faces inside the sex rooms, giving the viewer a revelations stack themselves high from start donned colorful masquerade masks while precise picture of the tiny, rudimentary to finish. The film, which documents the being interviewed. While to the viewer spaces they’re confined to every night. Clev- experiences of a group of young male urisen the masks might lend an additional layer erly, the film uses animated illustrations to (rent boys) who live and work together in of pathos to their stories, Ash and Storey cement in the mind what actually goes on Shinjuku Ni-chome, not only exposes one of initially chose the masks for purely practical in these rooms. the darker sides of Tokyo’s famed gay dis- trict, but also unearths a plethora of related issues in the process. “We could have made five different films,” says executive producer Ian Thomas Ash. “In the three years it took to produce, we did all kinds of filming, and there were so many things we could’ve focused on, for example gay rights in Japan or the fact that men having sex with men for money is not illegal in Japan, whereas female sex work is. But in the end, our original idea still felt like the strongest.” The original idea came about when Ash and the film’s producer and director of pho- tography, Adrian Storey, were looking for a collaborative creative project. Both have spent over a decade living in Japan, and as film makers, say they are drawn to contro- versial topics and people living on the pe- riphery of society. Storey, who is now based in the UK and works under the professional alias of Uchujin (“alien”), has produced short films for the likes of Vice including one about anti-nuclear sticker artist 281_Anti Nuke, while Ash has won awards for several documentaries, two of which focused on the

TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2017 | 37 All the boys, save Sexual health edu- for one, are under 26 (as cation, or the lack of it dictated by the urisen bars’ in Japan, is one of the rules), and many of them critical issues raised in service clients up to the age the documentary. In of 80 and even older. They one scene, the urisens’ are paid around ¥7,000 per manager states that the hour, and they work from boys are given training 4pm to midnight or 2am about safe sex, but this every day, with just three is swiftly followed by days’ holiday per month. several of the urisen Depending on how many shaking their heads and clients they have, their saying the opposite. One monthly earnings vary tends to believe the boys between ¥200,000 and on this point, especially ¥1 million – but 50% of since in a previous scene this goes to the bar. the same manager insists Aside from wondering the nature of the job is why they would choose to explained at interview do this kind of work for stage, while more than such low pay (the reasons one urisen claims to have they give range from things been misled to believe like family debt to losing they would simply be everything in the 2011 dining out with clients tsumani), perhaps the most or that they would have perplexing detail is that female customers as well the majority of the boys as men. identify as straight; some of It’s hard enough as them even have girlfriends. a viewer to walk away Even if they do identify from Boys for Sale with- as homosexual, the bar out feeling desperation owners instruct them to for the boys in the film. pretend they are straight. So how, after spending so This leads to many a cringeworthy moment “The things they talk about in the much time with them, did Ash and Storey as they describe their struggle to reconcile film are quite specific to the way Japanese manage to process the experience? And their sexuality with the requirements of society works,” adds Storey. “For example, how has it shaped their views on Japan? their job. the tendency to be indifferent to issues “Everyone talks about how homoge- It also raises questions about societal that don’t directly affect you. And the lack nous Japan is,” says Storey. “But as soon as norms and pressures in Japan. “I think this of understanding of sexual health issues. you scratch a tiny bit below the surface, you scenario of straight-identifying men having There were interviews where Ian and I start to realize that’s not true. Japanese peo- sex for money with clients who are straight were in tears afterwards. But probably the ple are as diverse as everybody else; there living is a reflection on a society in which it most shocking moment for both of us was is a dark side, there is all this undercurrent has traditionally not been an option to live when we asked one of the boys if he knew going on – the same as everywhere else. openly as a homosexual,” says Ash. “I don’t how an STD is contracted and he said, ‘Can By making a documentary about the fringe think that this kind of sex trade is particular- men get STDs too?’” Considering the type of of society, you just have it reinforced to ly unique to Japan, but the way in which it work he is doing, where the sex is usually you that all these things are going on here. operates is.” unprotected, his answer is dumbfounding. Japan is not unique; it’s not a homogenous, Hello Kitty wonderland ... You have to find a way of doing what you can and then let- ting go. And in some way, making the film and getting it out there is part of processing the emotions.” Ash adds: “It would be a shame if we walked away and thought ‘I feel sorry for them, and something like that would never happen to me.’ I think we have more in common with people in these situations than we don’t. We have a lot to learn about what it means to be human, and to have empathy. And to not judge people for what- ever choices they’ve had to make.”

Boys for Sale was directed by Itako, and all illustrations are by N Tani Studio. The film is being screened this month at LGBT film festival Outfest in Los Angeles. To watch the trailer and find out about upcoming screen- ings, visit boysforsale.com

38 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER

Vincent van Gogh, Postman Joseph Roulin, 1888, Gift of Robert Treat Paine, 2nd, 35.1982, Photograph © 2017 Museum Fine Arts, Boston

SIT DOWN FOR A SPELL...... all right, enough dawdling! There's plenty that you'll want to check out in Tokyo this month, from artistic aquariums to an aesthetic trip through Southeast Asia.

TOKYOTOKYOTOKYOTOKYO WEEKENDER WEEKENDERWEEKENDER WEEKENDER | DECEMBER | | | MARCH JUNE JULY 2017 20172016 | | 39 39 © Julian Lennon ART & FICTION

JULIAN LENNON – CYCLE

Julian Lennon, son of one of the most iconic figures in rock and roll history, has charted his own considerable professional and artistic trajectory, working in the genres of music, film, and children’s literature. Over the past several years, Lennon has begun exploring photography, using it as a means of recording his travels around the globe. His current exhibition, Cycle, which depicts scenes around Southeast Asia, is on display at the Leica Gallery Tokyo in Ginza as well as at the Leica store in the newly opened Ginza Six shopping center. Leica Gallery Tokyo Until September 17 bit.ly/TWLeicaTokyo THE ART WORLD OUR PICK OF THE CITY’S BEST EXHIBITIONS

Compiled by Alec Jordan © Miraikan - The National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation

NEW PERMANENT EXHIBITIONS AT MIRAIKAN The National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation, better known as the Miraikan, has always been a place that appeals to the science and tech set, and a great place to take the little ones. The museum has just unveiled four new exhibits that should spark a sense of wonder in minds both young and old: an update to "A Hands-On Model of the Internet"; Alter, a new android; an interactive lab that shows us how technology can help us get fitter; and an exhibit dedicated to the Venus Climate Orbiter "AKATSUKI" satellite. Miraikan Permanent Exhibition www.miraikan.jst.go.jp/en

40 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER Lee Wen, Strange Fruit, 2003, C print, 42×59.4 F FICTION

SUNSHOWER: CONTEMPORARY ART FROM SOUTHEAST ASIA 1980S TO NOW In celebration of the 50th anniversary of the creation of ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations), both the Mori Art Museum and the National Art ou might think that writer Barry Lancet Center, Tokyo will be showing a collection of works by leading creative figures has a crystal ball somewhere around from the art scenes of several different countries in Southeast Asia. The show his writer’s desk, given how topical his gets its name from the common – in Southeast Asia at least – phenomenon most recent book, The Spy Across the of rain falling from clear skies, which organizers say is “a metaphor for the Table, manages to be. Its plot wends its vicissitudes of the region.” Mori Art Museum and The National Art Center, Y way into North Korea, and features a character Tokyo Until October 23 sunshower2017.jp/en/index.html who is a high level Chinese spy. But this is

all in a day’s work for Lancet’s creation Jim Vincent van Gogh, Lullaby: Madame Augustine Roulin Rocking a Cradle, 1889, Bequest of John T. Vincent van Gogh, Lullaby: Madame Augustine Roulin Rocking a Cradle, 1889, Bequest of John T. Spaulding, 48.548 Photograph © 2017 Museum of Fine Arts, Boston Brodie, the art dealer/private detective who is sleuthing and fighting his way through his fourth novel. After two close friends of Brodie are murdered in Washington DC, he is drawn into action that takes him to one of the world’s most tense geopolitical regions – the demilitarized zone that lies between North and South Korea. He also delves into corners of Japan’s underworld, including the Chongryon, a Japanese Korean group with ties to North Korea, and the PSIA, Japan’s national intelligence agency. The “spy” of the title is Zhou, and as Lancet explains, “he's based on a real encounter I had in Tokyo years ago. He first appeared fictionally in the second Jim Brodie book,Tokyo Kill, and a lot of people liked him as a character so I had planned to bring him back. I had a set scene in this book where he was just supposed to appear for just two or three chapters, but he sort of took over the book. I wasn't even really expecting it.” Expect plenty more surprises in this taut thriller, which hit shelves last month. Some of the standouts from the book are the fight scenes, which give the lie to anyone who thinks that brawlers are just dumb brutes; GREAT COLLECTORS: MASTERPIECES FROM THE Lancet’s ability to introduce cultural details MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, BOSTON and deep history while still keeping the pace going; and the unflappable Jim Brodie, whose The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, is renowned as one of the world’s top multifaceted background gives him what his museums, in both quality and scale. Even more impressive is that the museum creator sees as his greatest strength: “His developed its collection entirely through the efforts of private citizens, collectors ability to see both sides of the coin without and companies, without any assistance from the state or federal government. making judgement – even when there are This collection of 80 items from the MFA’s collection highlights the work of three sides to the coin, or four.” the individual collectors who helped the museum reach its global status, and features masterworks ranging from ancient Egyptian pieces to dazzling The Spy Across the Table is available on Amazon examples of contemporary art at its finest.Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum Japan and at some Kinokuniya Stores for ¥2,837 July 20-October 9 www.tobikan.jp/en/exhibition/2017_boston.html

TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2017 | 41 1 3

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AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN JULY

1 JUL 19-31 2 JUL 22-23 3 JUL 15-31 4 JUL 7-31 DRUM TAO HANDMADE IN JAPAN FES THE MASTERS OF ARTS ART AQUARIUM This group of dynamic percussion This annual celebration of creativity The second edition of this Park In its 11th year, this popular artists puts on explosive shows features a market with 5,500 artisans Hyatt event features dynamic goldfish aquarium meets arts mixing music, dance and acrobatics and creators, food stalls galore, calligraphy, traditional pottery and installation has come of age. This with their traditional drums. live performances (including pro chef Kenichiro Ooe’s home-style year’s theme is inspired by the Where: Zepp Blue Theater wrestlers!), and more. seasonal summer cuisine. Palace of the Dragon King. Roppongi Where: Tokyo Big Sight Where: Park Hyatt Tokyo Where: Nihonbashi Mitsui Hall How much: ¥8,500 How much: ¥1,500-¥2,500 How much: From ¥7,500 How much: ¥1,000 More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com

5 JUL 5-9 6 JUL 3-31 7 JUL 6-10 8 JUL 1-31 SHIMOKITAZAWA MUSIC SHOWA-ERA BEER GARDEN SHITAMACHI TANABATA TARO OKAMOTO’S TOHOKU FESTIVAL Unwind after work at Grand Hyatt FESTIVAL Discover the magic of northern Japan Look forward to live shows on Tokyo’s outdoor Chapel Garden Tanabata falls on July 7, but you can through this artist’s work, much of outdoor stages, inside live houses at this summer event themed catch the colorful strips of paper which was inspired by his fascination and on the streets, with both local around Japan’s Showa era, with for a few days before and after the with the primeval elements he and international bands strutting nostalgic snacks, drinks and 7th, and even write your own wish associated with the region. their stuff. music to match. on them. Where: Taro Okamoto Memorial Where: Around Shimokitazawa Where: Grand Hyatt Tokyo Where: Kappabashi Street, Asakusa Museum How much: Free How much: ¥6,000 How much: Free How much: ¥620 More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com More info: tokyoweekender.com

42 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER 「map」 2014 pigment print 100×150cm

Aoyama Cemetary Nogisaka Station Kohei Fukushima / maps G

aien Saturday 15th July - Sunday 30th July, 2017 G

The National aien East S W est S Art Center, Tokyo Opening Hours: 12:00 - 19:00 | Closed: Mondays t . Ho kk aien

National Graduate Opening Reception: Friday July 14th from 18:00 onwards t

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TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2017 | 43 TRAVEL

[ PROMOTION ] Explore Niigata with a New Market in Tokyo, and Four Local Festivals

Niigata is an often overlooked prefecture home to Fuji Rock, great skiing slopes, and the Kodo drum group, but there's so much more. A new market offers a taste of the region's specialties right here in Tokyo this summer, with other regions to be showcased later in the year

ummer is synonymous with festivals in Japan, and this month we’ve got our sights set on some of Niigata’s top matsuri. While many of us would love to throw caution to Sthe wind and travel up and down the nation to experience these wonderful events firsthand, we know it’s not always easy to find the time. Thankfully you can also get your rural festival fix right here in the city at Tabisuru Shintora Market, a new ongoing event outside Torano- mon Hills that opened earlier this year to pro- FOR TRADITIONAL CRAFT LOVERS mote local regions from across the nation. The SANJO AND TSUBAME current theme, named Summer Breeze, begins THE FESTIVAL Known collectively as Sanjo-Tsubame, this world-class metalworking region this month and features five cities from Nii- is revered for its high-quality knives, and flatware used at the Nobel Prize banquet. The gata touting their wares and local specialties. Tsubame-Sanjo Factory Festival allows visitors to have a rare chance to see skilled craftsmen But first, a closer look at the festivals and other as they work, and also join them for a drink at organized receptions. October 5-8, kouba-fes.jp attractions they’re famous for…. WHILE YOU'RE THERE Hard physical work requires filling food, so it's no surprise Sanjo and Tsubame are famous for their curry ramen and seabura (back fat) ramen respectively. Echigo FOR SAKE ENTHUSIASTS Miso Jyouzo lets visitors can try making their own batch of this traditional condiment. MURAKAMI CITY HOW TO GET THERE Take the Joetsu Shinkansen to Tsubame-Sanjo station. THE FESTIVAL This historical castle town is home to the Murakami Grand Festival, a traditional event that dates back over 380 years and features large floats called oshagiri as the main draw. July 6-7, www.sake3.com/ murakamitaisai WHILE YOU'RE THERE Located on Niigata’s coast, this city's claim to local fame is sake, sake and sake. (That’s salmon, sake and empathy for the rest of us.) Visitors are wel- comed to long lanes of black wooden walls and fences – a signature Edo-period style – and rows of whole salmon hanging to air dry in the sun. The city also a slew of beautiful beaches and onsen, the most famous being Senami Onsen, which overlooks the ocean. HOW TO GET THERE Take the Joetsu Shin- kansen to Niigata City, then switch to the Uetsu Honsen Line for Murakami Station.

44 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER Yayoi Kusama in Bloom” photo “Tsumari by Osamu Nakamura

FOR ARTY TYPES TOKAMACHI CITY THE FESTIVAL Tokamachi City is home to a unique art event, the Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale, that transcends generations, genres and nationalities. Artists stay true to the vision of "humans are a part of nature" by creating works in diverse locations like rice fields, closed-down schools and more. Although the next Triennale isn't until 2018, about 200 artworks can be viewed year round. Activities are held throughout the year, www.echigo-tsumari.jp/eng WHILE YOU'RE THERE The city is also home to Kiyotsu Gorge, an expansive beech forest, and a treasure trove of exceptional Jomon Period (14,000-300 BC) flame-style pottery. HOW TO GET THERE Take the JR Joetsu Shinkansen to Echigo-Yuzawa Station, then the Hokuho- Photo by Tsubame-Sanjo Factory Festival Committee ku Line to Tokamachi Station.

FOR TOKYO STAYCATIONERS DISCOVER THE CHARMS OF NIIGATA AT THE TABISURU SHINTORA MARKET IN TOKYO Before heading to Niigata, drop by the Toranomon Hills’ Tabisuru Shintora Market for a taste of these festive cities. The regions each have their own stand serving local delicacies and spirits. Accompanying the market is the Tabisuru store, with selected wares from the featured areas, and the Tabisuru café, which will serve dishes using Niigata-sourced, seasonal ingredients. Tabisuru market Jul 5-29, shop and café Jul 5-Oct 1. 2-16 Nishi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku. www.tabisuru-market.jp

FOR FANS OF FIREWORKS NAGAOKA CITY FESTIVAL Nagaoka Matsuri, now in its 72nd year, is one of Japan’s three great fire- works festivals and has made the event an explosive show. It features three monstrous sanshakudama, each over 300kg, as well as perfectly timed fireworks set to music. The event also features mikoshi shrine parades, as well as folk dance processions. August 1-3 (fireworks Aug 2-3), Shinano Riverside, nagaokamatsuri.com WHILE YOU'RE THERE Shrines and temples dot the city's environs, including the stun- ning Hotokusan Inari Taisha which has history dating back to the Jomon Period. HOW TO GET THERE Take the JR Joetsu Shinkansen to Nagaoka Station.

TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2017 | 45 People, Parties, Places TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIETY PAGE WITH BILL HERSEY

o much happening here in old Edo – and so many notes on many an in-house bakery – try the organic Baker’s Basket. I really feel you’ll of the happenings around town I’m even further behind than like this new eatery and it’s going to be very popular. That’s enough this usual. We’re living in what’s got to be one of the most dynamic and that for this month’s column. Time to move on to Tokyo’s always cities in the world, and I’m sure most of you love it as much busy social scene. Sas I do. The closer we get to the Olympics in 2020, the more changes we’re going to see. As I’m sure you know, things are already changing PAKISTAN’S NATIONAL DAY AND – almost daily. Here are a few things you have probably noticed. La Foret in Harajuku just opened a variety of really cool menswear shops AMBASSADOR AMIL’S SAYONARA – they’re very trendy and chic. The National Day event was at the Okura Hotel and his sayonara Shibuya’s busier than ever. Don Quixote just opened their megas- was at his sixth floor penthouse in Mita. Farukh was very popular, tore right across the street from the super-popular Segafredo café and and both of the events were wall-to-wall people from all walks of next to H&M’s always life. I hadn’t gotten busy fashion building. to know him that Believe me, the beau- long. He was very tiful aquariums with international, very their marvelous varie- intelligent, fun, ty of tropical fish at the outgoing and cool. new Don Quixote in He’s in Switzerland the huge white build- now as his country’s ing make it well worth ambassador to the checking out. You and UN. He’ll really be your kids will love it. missed by his many Over Roppongi friends here. way, they’ve cut down all the beautiful trees ARAB JAPAN on the corner land where the late great DAY GALA Dr. Aksenoff had his EVENING international clinic. Japan went all out Friends in urban de- when our Arab velopment tell me the friends held their owner (Mori) really annual Arab Japan has dynamic plans for Day 2017 at the that area and many Imperial Hotel on other places in Rop- April 4. Security, pongi as well. I also which matched hear that several Tokyo flashback: Bill with the late great the world’s best, actor Roger Moore and his wife property owners be- included dozens of hind the run-down police cars, lots of Roi Building have finally sold their property on the street behind the motorcycle officers, several busloads of uniformed officers, and top Roi and development companies will be making really big changes SPs (special police). there as well. As Weekender founder Corky Alexander used to say, “I Many of Japan’s top politicians attended, including Prime Minis- don’t want to break anyone’s rice ball,” but that property really needs ter Shinzo Abe, who gave a very meaningful speech. There were also cleaning up. remarks by Keizo Morikawa, chairman of the Japan Arab Association, While you’re in Roppongi, be sure and check out the new Star- and a gift presentation to the Governor of Tokyo, Yuriko Koike. She, as bucks in Midtown Plaza. There’s seating for about 20 people on the I’m sure many of you know, studied in Cairo and speaks fluent Arabic. first floor where you can relax and enjoy watching the passing parade The ceremony opened with a welcome address by Kuwaiti Ambassador of interesting people. There are also several tables/benches outside, Al-Otaibi. and a chic room on the second floor that has comfortable seating for Prior to the reception, there was a symposium on sustainable en- about 60 people. ergy and water security. This was attended by many experts on this A great Belgian restaurant, Le Pain Quotidien, moved in where subject. The evening’s program included performances of both Arabic Starbucks used to be Midtown Plaza. You’ll like the rustic décor, the and Japanese music, a visit to an authentic Bedouin tent transported service is good, and the food is healthy and tasty. You’ll be amazed at from Saudi Arabia, an exhibition of everyday articles inside the tent, the variety they offer, and their prices are reasonable. They also have and an exhibition and demonstration of Arabic calligraphy. It was all

46 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER IMPERIAL MEDIA DINNER/RECEPTION 1. Kelly Wetherille and her husband, Jorge Pazmino, looking good!! 2. Le Monde’s Philippe Mesmer, socialite Vivian Morelli, PR guru Nacio “Skip” Cronin 3. The host, Imperial Hotel’s president Hideya Sadayasu, Dewi Sukarno, Hawaii Halekulani Hotel’s President Peter Shaindlin 4. Peter Shaindlin, Imperial Hotel’s exec. Jun Kazama, Far East Traveler’s founder George Pokrovsky, his son – the magazine’s mg. ed., Michael 1 2

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6 8 10 PAKISTANI AMBASSADOR AMIL’S PAKISTAN NATIONAL DAY AND SAYONARA 5. Murlie Tanaka, Kumiko Meric (Turkey), Kyoko Spector, Lilo Maruyama 6. Turkish Amb. Bulent Meric, Amb. Amil, Popular politician Kazuyuki Hamada and Mrs. Hamada 7. Bahrain Amb. Hassan, Chief of mission Iraq Rahman Muhsin, Qatar 9 11 Amb. Yousef Bilal, Oman Amb. Khalid Al-Muslahi 8. Amb. Amil, Grand Hyatt 13 GM Steve Dewire 9. Yuko Miwa and her son, Masahisa (Valiant Language School) 10. Amb. Amil, Grand Hyatt GM Steve Dewire 11. Zimbabwe Amb. & Mrs. Titus M.J. Abubasutu 12. Govt. officials Antonio Inoki, Natsuo Yamaguchi, and Seishiro Eto, Amb. Amil, Motome Takizawa 13. Senegal Amb. and Mrs. Chiekh Niang, Muhammad Adam, Nigerian 12 Charge d'Affaires and Mrs. Bello Kavaure Husseini

TOKYOTOKYO WEEKENDERWEEKENDER || JULYJULY 2017 | 47 MIDTOWN OAKWOOD CELEBRATES 10TH ANNIVERSARY 1. Fortress’s Tami Ooka, Asian Tigers Nick Masse 2. Midtown’s Amy Harashino, rowing celebrity Capt. Lia Ditton 3. Midtown’s man in Japan Martin Fluck, Pacific Development & Mgmt. Co’s Rep. director Hiroshi Kasugai, Playfoot Advisory’s Marcus Fishenden 4. Konishiki and country/ western singer Crystal Godfleish 5. Maho, Kamasami Kong, Fujisankei’s Jeff Richards 6. Konishiki, Anetta Hausner, Mayumi Jones, Andre Zimmerman 1 2

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8 10 JAPAN ARAB RECEPTION – IMPERIAL HOTEL 7. Prime Minister Shinzo Abe 8. Tokyo governor Yuriko Koike 9. Noted pianist Reiko Awazu, Namibia Amb. Sophia-Namupa Nangome, Bangladesh Amb. Rabab, Lilo Maruyama 10. Bahrain Amb. Dr. Khalil Hassan Ras Romani and the Hotel New Otani’s Seiji Kojima 11. Politician Kazuyuki Hamada, 9 Rana Ismayilzada (Azerbaijan), APA Hotels owners Toshio and 12 Fumiko Motoya 12. Jamilah Al-Otaibi (Kuwait), Shifa Haddad (Jordan), her mother Amal Zghoul, Jamila Al- Gunaid (Yemen)

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48 | JULY 2017 | TOKYO WEEKENDER very informative and interesting. I’m sure that the wife of the Kuwaiti – bamboo. If someone in your party is talented, there’s a grand piano Ambassador Jamilah, who really has an artistic sense, worked hard on in the main dining room that you can use if it doesn’t bother the other setting it up. Our congratulations to the Council of Arab Ambassadors customers, and there’s a small hall with a stage and a good PA system and Heads of Mission and their many friends here who made it all very connected to the main dining room. There are two kitchens and an ex- special. cellent chef. The menu is limited, but I was really happy with a cup of Sri Lankan tea, a fruit smoothie and a piece of New York cheese cake. THE IMPERIAL HOTEL’S GLITTERING DINNER The café is open daily from 9am to 6pm. Private parties can be booked FOR THE MEDIA until 8pm. If you check it out I’m sure you’ll be surprised to find such a spacious relaxed and enjoyable retreat in one of Tokyo’s upscale Once again, the President of the Imperial Hotel, Hideya Sadayasu, and neighborhoods. For more information call 03-6869-5656. his super staff went all out to make their annual party for the media a My timing was perfect for my first visit as there was a colorful very special evening. This year the party, bigger than usual, was held exhibition of paintings by one of Sri Lanka’s top artists, Kekuli. She’s a in a larger venue: the luxurious Peacock Room. very interesting woman whose late husband was mayor of two cities The spacious venue was filled wall to wall with interesting people. in Sri Lanka, and her travel companions to Japan for her exhibit were It was nice seeing special guest Peter Shaindlin, who’s President of the her two daughters – Tersha who’s a lawyer, and Iranajali who’s a psy- legendary Halekulani Hotel in Honolulu, and many top Japanese and chologist – and Prince Unamboowe, whose great grandfather was the foreign journalists I don’t see enough of. The buffet was a fabulous last King of Ceylon. They were all interesting people and I spent most presentation that the top chefs and food and beverage staff had spent of the afternoon with them. Happy to have new, high-quality friends a lot of time and effort on. They certainly had a gourmet dinner to be in a country I love and hope to visit soon. I left the café that day with proud of. Congratulations to our host Sadayasu-san. At the same time, a much-cherished gift, a painting of an elephant – one of my favorite congratulations to the world-renowned hotel on their new and very animals – by Kekuli. personable managing director and GM, Yukio Kanao. I had more time later with a very talented sculptor, Dule. He worked

for me at a nightclub I ran for many years in Roppongi. Now he’s a pro- HAPPY ANNIVERSARY MIDTOWN OAKWOOD fessor in Shanghai, a city he loves, and was here to see friends. He has Midtown’s luxurious Oakwood Premiere recently hosted a packed 10th sculptures in many museums and I’m really proud of a beautiful gold anniversary party at their popular residential lounge in Midtown Mall, greyhound sculpture he sent me. I also appreciate that Dule got me ad- which is also celebrating its 10th birthday. As always at their many dicted to goji berries – it seems the Chinese are really into this health happenings, there was a huge crowd enjoying the music by a Hawai- food. You can get them at National Azabu or Nissen. ian duo, chatting with former sumo champ Konishiki, enjoying the In other news, I drive through Yoyogi Park almost every day and excellent buffet and mixing with a lot of interesting people. I really was recently surprised to find a parking spot available on a Sunday. enjoyed spending time with British Captain Lia Ditton, who has gained I stopped, and was pleased to discover they were having an Okinawa international fame by rowing her colorful customized boat solo across Street Music Festival. I learned to really like Okinawan music when I the Atlantic Ocean. I’m sure you’ll be seeing a lot more of her and her was there a few years ago for a film festival, and was able to hear and boat, which looks a bit Star Wars-esque, later this year. Lia’s planning meet some of Okinawa’s top musical artists. a trans-Pacific solo and is sure, with the right sponsors, she can make As you can see our city’s been busy. Unfortunately, conflicting it happen. schedules, lots of visitors, and so on added up to me having to miss My thanks to Oakwood’s Martin Fluck and his always helpful staff several worthwhile events. The first was almost a week of Armenian for all their kindness, generosity and friendship over the years. My culture hosted by Ambassador Grant Pogosyan and his wife Natalia. congratulations to them all on the success of their many hotels. They It was to celebrate a quarter century of Armenian-Japanese relations all work very hard and it’s paid off. and there was a full schedule of art, food, cosmetics demonstrations, Armenian lace exhibits, and music from both countries. Congratula- tions to our Armenian and Japanese friends who got it all together. NEW FACES, NEW PLACES Irish Ambassador Annie Barrington’s talented American husband Ed First, many thanks to Sri Lankan business tycoon Nishantha Perera for Miliano is an accomplished artist. I’ve seen some of his work on the an invitation to his “New Tomorrow Café.” The theme for this quiet re- walls of their home, and loved it. Sorry I missed his May exhibit at laxing getaway is “Happiness, Healing, and Hope” and it’s right behind the Motoazabu Museum. It was titled “No Ordinary Place” and friends the German Embassy which is just up the hill from National Azabu who made it there really enjoyed it. Supermarket in the Arisunomori Minamiazabu complex. The café is Finally, for more proof positive that the multi-talented Steve big. The main dining area has a relaxed atmosphere and is filled with Haynes never slows down, he just released his a new CD titled High comfortable tables, chairs and couches. There’s a large outdoor patio Heels Music. It features 15 superstars performing their biggest hits. where you can enjoy a first-class barbecue for as many as 50 peo- In between each song, Steve gives a short intro in his really pro- ple. If you really want to relax, you can stretch out in one of the fessional manner. It’s a CD you should have. Pick it up and hammocks. There’s plenty of greenery, especially my favorite you’ll know what I mean. Congratulations, my friend.

Sri Lankan businessman Nishantha Perera, artist Kekuli Cliff Wooley and his daughter Kim at the New Miss Supranational, Yuki Koshikawa, with Abeyratne, her daughters Iranjali and Tersha, and Prince Pride Festival friends at Shibuya Segafredo Unamboowe at the New Tomorrow Café in Mita

TOKYO WEEKENDER | JULY 2017 | 49

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