GAY JAPAN A ManAboutWorld Insider Guide JAPAN: EVERYTHING IS AN ADVENTURE

o best understand Japan, you should fly there on a Japanese airline. The pleasantness is stunning, and while you first notice it in the professional and gracious crew, it is not because of them. It is because of the high ratio of Japanese pas- sengers. An ancient culture of conformity, respect and ritual has begotten a modern culture of people who are unusually respectful, orderly and polite. There’s even an animated in­flight video on JAL, demonstrating good flight etiquette, in- Tcluding things we’ve never done, like alerting the passenger behind you before reclining your seat. It sure makes for a pleasant cabin (as did the extra humidity and oxygen of the air on our 787 Dreamliner — that’s another story). But these same cultural forces are the ones that stunt the liberation of the Japanese LGBT community. They are at the heart of every internal Japanese conflict, an amplified expression of the conflict we all experience between holding on to the past, and growing into the future. It shouldn’t seem so foreign to us. But it does. And that’s the heart of any Japanese adventure.

From its earliest interactions with Dutch and Portuguese traders, Japan has kept foreigners at a distance. And yet its rituals of hospitality are unrivaled in their intricacy and graciousness. For western travelers, a visit to Japan opens windows to both the past and the future. This is easily visible in the juxtaposition of tourist staples like tea ceremonies and bullet trains. And it’s even more striking in the less visible: Japan’s struggle to maintain its unique cultural identity in our increasingly globalized world, and its historical reverence for group welfare above individual interests. These unusual characteristics of Japanese society challenge us to reexamine our own perspectives, prejudices and place in the world.

A tourist visit to Japan is filled with unique sights and sounds, tastes and experiences. Some are well-known, like the ancient temples and shrines of Kyoto. Some, like many of the dishes we enjoyed at kaiseki dinners, remain a mystery, even after digesting them. Japan is at once ancient and modern and truly foreign, in ways that are challenging and thrilling for visitors, even jaded well-traveled­ ones. And though you may not have even heard of it, the Buddhist temples and cemetery at Mt. Koya deserves a place on any serious or spiritual traveler’s bucket list, one of the most spectacular places we’ve ever visited.

While the language barrier, customs and cultural divide can be daunting for independent visitors, the tourist infrastructure is well-developed,­ efficient and highly organized, with help available at every turn, usually in English. The Japanese are proud of their culture and history, and eager to share with foreigners. Tourist crime is virtually nonexistent.­ As New Yorkers, the current male fashion trend of large wallets, half-tucked­ into back pockets was unfathomable to us, and yet in Tokyo, perfectly safe. The world­wide ubiquity of taxi ripoffs­ doesn’t happen here (although taxis are so expensive, it hardly matters).

Ours is not a comprehensive guide to Japan, but a guide to experiencing the highlights that most appeal to a modern gay trav- eler. Whether you are traveling in a group or on your own, your experience in Japan will be greatly enhanced by doing some preparation and research in advance, and we will guide you to the recommended resources you’ll need to enjoy visiting this magnificent country, whether you choose to follow our itinerary, or plot one of your own.

CONTENTS

1. GAY JAPAN: THE OPEN CLOSET

2. YOUR JAPANESE ADVENTURE: PLANNING RESOURCES

3. GETTING THERE/GETTING AROUND

4. TOKYO

5. JAPAN TOURING HIGHLIGHTS: BEYOND TOKYO

6. OUR RECOMMENDED JAPAN ITINERARY + HOTEL/DINING RECOMMENDATIONS

7. THE RYOKAN EXPERIENCE

8. YOUR LOST IN TRANSLATION EXPERIENCE

9. TEN THINGS TO KNOW IF YOU WANT TO GO

CREDITS 1. GAY JAPAN: THE OPEN CLOSET 1. GAY JAPAN: THE OPEN CLOSET

Japan’s cultural and social norms and rituals are often inscrutable, and its attitudes around homosexuality are no exception. Although it’s changing (with all the speed of a striking snail), Japanese society places much greater emphasis on group identity and values over personal expression, and most Japanese will go to great lengths to avoid embarrassing their family, company, community and country. Sexuality — homo or hetero — is considered a private matter. It’s not flaunted in public displays of affection, or discussed. We got the impression that many gays here were even reluctant to discuss why it’s so private, lest we somehow think less of them or their country.

Professional pressure to conform is also great: employers favor the stability of men in traditional family structures, and with their career advancement dependent on it, many gay Japanese fill those expectations publicly, compartmentalizing their sexual orientation and activity, often comfortably within a heterosexual marriage with children. Homosexuality is legal in Japan, and small protections for gays and even transgender people have been enacted, mostly on a local level. The homophobia that exists is not based in political or religious demonization, but in ignorance and the general disapproval for deviating from the family structural norms. While liberated westerners may chafe at this personal repression, the Japanese are quite stoic about it. In a culture where women’s equality is still hard to picture, gay social progressives are resigned to slow but steady change.

Japan’s first gay Pride parade occurred in 1994, has only been produced sporadically since and attracts just a few thousand participants. But Japan’s gay activists are determined, and travel providers within Japan are just starting to recognize the gay travel market. As openly gay travelers (who used the word husband, but didn’t hold hands in public), we felt completely com- fortable and welcome, and that our openness itself might help move the needle of acceptance and understanding in tiny but significant ways.

A gracious xenophobia for foreign visitors, much of the local gay life is not just hidden, it’s inaccessible. Tokyo has hundreds of gay bars, but only a handful welcome foreigners. Examining all the reasons why offers great insight into Japanese culture. Although they are rarely signed anymore, there are still many “Japanese Only” establishments (not just gay places). We heard many explanations during our visit, and have surmised three main components:

1. The Language Barrier This is obvious, but also misleading, covering a multitude of issues. The bartender isn’t just there to transact your bar order. He is a gracious host, expected to make conversation and introductions. A language barrier makes it impossible for him to do what is expected. And while most younger Japanese have studied English, their education is more grammatical than conversation- al, and many are too embarrassed by their poor command of the language to speak it — even in the face of our obvious and laughable inability to speak more than 10 words of Japanese.

2. The Cultural Divide Japan remains a highly ritualized and ordered society, with a history of enduring ignorant, disrespectful and unruly visitors and occupiers. While modern Japanese are overwhelmingly tolerant of our cultural differences, our lapses in protocol can some- times still shock or insult. Many traditional guesthouses have extensive instructions for things like “bathing etiquette,” but other Japanese businesses find it easier to simply discourage foreigners.

3. The Closed Circle Most of Tokyo’s numerous gay bars are tiny, accommodating less than a dozen patrons, who come not to meet new people but to hang out with their friends. The bars, often vanity businesses purchased with an inheritance, are almost an extension of the owner’s living room.

Could this all be masking deep-­seated racism or xenophobia? Maybe. But the haltingly polite refusal to serve us in these bars made us feel otherwise. When we feigned ignorance of where we would be welcome, we were personally escorted to a foreigners’ bar amidst excited discussion of how much our momentary guides loved New York. And we’re sure had we asked them to join us for a drink, they would have gladly. A NOTE ABOUT TATTOOS Traditionally associated with the Yakuza, or Japanese mafia, tattoos can be problematic for visitors to Japan. You may be refused entry into public baths, pools or health clubs. Covering them with bandages may be even worse, as that may imply communicable disease. The best practice is to ask if there’s any question. Places that cater to foreigners tend to be the most lenient, but even a traditional onsen may allow you to use the facilities during an off ­hour when other guests are not present. You can read more about Japanese gay life on Japanvisitor.com. http://www.japanvisitor.com/gay-japan/gay-japan-overview You’ll find additional information and listings onUtopia ­-asia.com http://www.utopia-asia.com/tipsjapn.htm­ and travelgayasia. com and TravelGayAsia.com. http://www.travelgayasia.com/destination/gay-japan/

2. PLANNING YOUR JAPANESE ADVENTURE 2. PLANNING YOUR JAPANESE ADVENTURE

A LITTLE HELP FROM OUR FRIENDS You’ll need some assistance beyond our recommendations to plan your own ideal Japanese adventure. Whether you want the full assistance of a guided tour, or just enough tips to navigate on your own, you’ll find those resources here.

Once you’re in Japan, you’ll find a variety of helpful services available to you. From volunteer “goodwill guides” to tourist in- formation booths, to subway ticketing machines with help call buttons and helpful pedestrians who are eager to point or even walk you in the right direction, you’re never far from assistance.

GUIDED GROUP TOURS Even the least intrepid travelers can enjoy Japan on a fully guided tour. There are many tours offered by mainstream compa- nies, but we highly recommend the tour offering by our friends atOut Adventures. http://www.outadventures.com­

FULL ITINERARY PLANNING ASSISTANCE In our search for assistance and information, all gay roads in Tokyo led to Shintaro, the owner of OutAsia Travel. http://outa- siatravel.com/ His insights and assistance in putting together a customized itinerary is highly recommended, particularly for those who want the reassurance of having someone else work out all of the logistical details, but don’t want to travel in a group. He’s an IGLTA Ambassador, and has become a dear friend of ManAboutWorld. Be sure to mention us when you contact him. But even utilizing the assistance of professionals and our recommendations, it will be well worth your while to do at least a little research of your own. This small country is dense with riches for tourists, and the ability to narrow and articulate your preferences will produce the most personally satisfying trip.

INDIVIDUAL PLANNING RESOURCES The Japan National Tourism Organization http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/ provides a variety of resources that will be helpful to prospective visitors. The most impressive of these is a directory of Systematized Goodwill Guide (SGG) Clubs. http://www. jnto.go.jp/eng/arrange/travel/guide/guideservice.html These volunteer guides, mostly retirees and housewives, provide free guide services to tourists in their native languages. Advance application is required (usually two weeks), and the quality of the guides can be hit or miss. We had two guides in Tokyo, one whom we adored, and who enhanced our enjoyment and under- standing dramatically, and one, well, not so much. We highly recommend taking advantage of this free* service, particularly on your first day in Tokyo. (*You are expected to pay for the guide’s transportation, lunch and entrance fees, where applicable.) We could have figured out the subway system entirely on our own, but with the assistance of our guide, it was a cinch. Although Japan has a deserved reputation for being expensive, budget travelers will appreciate the JNTO’s Affordable Japan recom- mendations. http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/arrange/travel/affordable/dine.html For hotels and ryokans in smaller cities, we found Japanican.com http://japanican.com useful.

Every train station and city we transited had at least one information booth staffed with a volunteer who spoke English. When we arrived in any city, we re­checked our touring plans and onward travel plans with them, usually gaining valuable local insight in the process.

3. GETTING THERE, GETTING AROUND 3. GETTING THERE, GETTING AROUND

The act of travel itself is a fun adventure in Japan. Trains are modern, clean, comfortable and run smoothly. Larger train sta- tions offer a variety of dining options, with lots of packaged meals and bento boxes that you can carry and eat aboard the trains. Although domestic trains are expensive, a Japan Rail Pass is available to foreign visitors offering significant savings and convenience.

In addition to the national rail pass, daily travel cards are available in the major cities, along with various combination tickets that combine multiple forms of transportation and admission fees for popular excursions (like the trip to Koyasan). Using the passes requires a little bit of research, as a small network of private rail lines and private subway lines are excluded from these passes. Sometimes traveling on a private line is unavoidable, but often there’s an equivalent route on a public line that will work just as well.

GETTING TO JAPAN Japan’s long history as a gateway hub between the U.S. and southeast Asia, combined with Tokyo’s major world capital status gives travelers excellent air connections from virtually everywhere. Japan Airlines is a member of the Oneworld Alliance; Ja- pan’s other major carrier, All Nippon Airways, or ANA, is a StarAlliance member. Both offer excellent service — we give the edge to ANA for their more modern, stylish sensibilities. American, Delta, United and Air Canada all offer multiple non­stop departures from North America, and limited North American service is also offered by Singapore Airlines, China Airlines and Korean Air. Two of our favorite mileage redemption offers are available for Japan: Oneworld offers a reduced 32,500 point o/w coach redemption award October 1-April­ 30, the lowest mileage redemption level between North America and Asia. And with advance planning and a little luck, you can score a first-class suite on a Singapore Airlines A380 from Los Angeles to Tokyo for just 74,375 points (must be booked online using KrisFlyer points, which you can obtain through transfers from many credit card and hotel point programs, including American Express Membership Miles, Starwood Preferred Guest and LeClub Accor). Nartia is Tokyo’s primary International airport, but closer-in­ Haneda has more domestic connections, and an increasing number of international flights, including new non-stops from JFK and ORD on ANA. Transpacific­ flights are also available into Osaka’s Kansai airport, and flying into Tokyo and out of Osaka (or vice-­versa) can streamline your itinerary.

AIRPORT TRANSFERS Tokyo’s high taxi fares are notorious — a private car transfer will cost $200, and a taxi as much as $300. Instead, from Narita, you can take the airport Limousine Bus, comfortable and convenient, especially since it makes many stops at many hotels, but can take at least two hours. The Narita Express is included on the JR Pass, and transfers nicely to local JR trains getting you close to many tourist locations in less than half the time. The Narita Skyliner is a little faster, especially to northern Tokyo, but it’s not on the JR Pass. You’ll find a good comparison of the differentoptions here. http://supermerlion.com/tokyo­train­guide­narita­to­tokyo/

Haneda Airport is much closer, and served by the easy and affordableTokyo Monorail. http://www.tokyo-monorail.co.jp/english/ Some international flights (like the American Airlines nonstop­ to New York), leave from Haneda at the crack of dawn, but the first or even second monorail departure will get you to the plane on time. We planned our last night in Tokyo to stay close to the Hama- matsucho station, so that we could walk or take a quick taxi ride to the monorail. At the airport, the monorail lets you off 100 yards from the check-in­ desk.

FREE WIFI FOR TOURISTS Japan offers tourists14 days of free wifi, http://www.ntt-bp.net/jcfw/en.html via Free WiFi cards at the airport, and through visitor Apps you can download via the AppStore or Google Play. We had trouble getting the Apps to work during our last visit in 2015, but the service is much improved and expanded since it launched in 2013. More information about free WiFi is available at the GoTokyo.org. https://www.gotokyo.org/en/tourists/info/wifi.html

TRAIN PASSES AND SCHEDULES HYPERDIA http://www.hyperdia.com/en/ The Hyperdia search engine from Hitachi Systems is the most sophisticated trip planning tool we’ve ever used. It easily allows you to restrict your searches to trains and lines available for pass use, and shows complete connections between national transit systems and local subways in the same search. It also shows fares for each segment of a journey, making it easy to compare the additional cost of using a private rail line. Japan Rail Pass http://www.japanrailpass.net/eng/en005.html We highly recommend using a Japan Rail Pass to get around the country. Available in seven,­ 14­ and 21-­day versions, it offers unlimited rail travel during the period of its validity on most of the trains you’ll need to travel between major cities, and even within Tokyo, as it is the JR trains that form the transport ring around the central city. Japan Rail Pass vouchers must be pur- chased before arriving in Japan, and then exchanged for a rail pass before your first use. We exchanged ours at Narita, Tokyo’s main international airport, and used the Narita Express (N’EX) train into the city. Seat reservations are easily made and changed at any JR station.

The JR Pass is not valid on the newest of the bullet trains (NOZOMI and MIZUHO), but there are plenty of other bullet trains available to take that might add 20 minutes to your travel time between major cities. First Class, or “Green Car” passes, are also available at a significant surcharge. We think this is an unnecessary expense: the standard seats are very comfortable, and many routes don’t even offer Green Car service.

Koyasan World Heritage Pass Mt. Koya is accessed by a private railway not included on the JR Pass. The Koyasan Pass http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/routes/g_route/golden_07.html includes roundtrip­ train transportation from Osaka’s Namba station, the cable car connection to Mt. Koya, a bus pass for local transportation around Mt. Koya, and discounts on temple entrances.

LUGGAGE ASSISTANCE Large luggage is a significant impediment for individual travelers in Japan, and if you can manage to fit everything you need into a rolling carry-on­ suitcase and a backpack, you’ll greatly ease your transit through crowded train stations. Ryokans, or traditional Japanese guest houses, are designed so that you can arrive with no luggage at all: You’ll be given a kimono to wear around the guesthouse, and most guests wear these to meals and even for walks outside. For shorter stays in smaller cities, you may find it easier to bring just a backpack, and ship your main luggage on to the next major destination. This is very com- mon and affordable ($12-15/piece) in Japan, and your hotel or travel planner should be able to take care of those arrangements for you.

NAVIGATING TOKYO Tokyo’s immense scale and Blade Runner-esque­ cityscape may seem daunting to most, and one can waste a lot of valuable time and money trying to get from one location to the next. Moving around is also greatly complicated by the two factors: The enor- mous expense of taxis, and the fact most streets (as in almost all of Japan) have no names and building numbers follow an uneven sequence, having been numbered in the order they were built. Japanese addresses are usually comprised of a series of three numbers: first the number of the sub area within a district or city ward, followed by the block number within that sub area, and finally the building number. Residents may know more or less the location of the sub area within a neighborhood, but nothing else.

The difficulty in finding addresses is an issue for all, not only for tourists; even experienced taxi drivers have to resort to their GPS applications. To find a specific location, careful advance planning and strategizing are recommended, and patience is mandatory. Below is how we cope with the address confusion in this huge city:

Many establishments have English language­ websites showing their location in relation to notable buildings, such as a big name corporate building, department stores, gas stations, etc. They will also tell you which subway or train station exit is closest to them. This way, before leaving for the day, print the website directions for each place you plan to visit, and have city and subway maps to guide you more generally. This will allow you to build a systematic approach to moving around. The concierge at your hotel can be an invaluable asset in this regard.

To find a specific museum, for example: The museum website will tell you their nearest subway stop and subway exit (A1, A2, A3 and so forth). Knowing the subway exit is very important as the subway stations are huge and take up many city blocks, all under- ground. Once you leave the train, follow the signs to your specific exit. From there, follow the website directions, paying attention to the distances and landmarks mentioned. Although this may sound like a big deal, it’s simple for the most visited places. This is still Earth, after all, and the city government has made a huge effort to make the life of visitors simpler. Subway announcements are made in Japanese and British-accented­ English, and street and station signs are plentiful and also bilingual. To ride the sub- way, a daily pass from the vending machines (which have English menus) will usually be cheaper and always more convenient than using single-trip­ tickets. If you become unsure of your location, as you invariably will at some point, enter a store or stop a passerby and ask for as- sistance. Although residents rarely recognize specific addresses, they most certainly are likely to know their most treasured attractions. Their knowledge of English is not their forte, but they can surprise you at times or will at least be able to point you to the right direction, and sometimes even walk you there. Also, police officers, stationed in booths/mini offices known as “Koban,” are found all over the city and one of their duties is to give directions to poor lost souls, Tokyoites or foreigners. These tactics will get you to most places, including department stores, big boulevards, museums, gardens, temples, shrines and hotels. However, to find lesser-­known places, such as smaller restaurants or little bars/clubs, the most efficient way is to take a taxi and be dropped off at the door. The driver will have to do his own research, which may include calling the place and getting step-­by-­step directions, or will use the GPS. Getting around in Tokyo is an adventure, so face it with an open mind and heart. Getting lost every once in awhile may reward you in unexpected ways in this most stimulating of cities.

4. TOKYO 4. TOKYO

Few places in the world have risen to such prominence as fast and as dramatically as Tokyo. This city’s history, like the coun- try’s itself, is one of fierce struggle and keen perseverance. Wars, devastating fires and earthquakes, overcrowding, economic stagnation — Tokyoites have seen it all. But they endure.

From a tiny fishing village in the 16th century known as Edo, today’s Tokyo forms one of the largest conurbations on the planet with a staggering population of more than 30 million people. It owes this rapid growth to its strategic location commanding many sea, river and land routes that provided the conditions for its ascent as the military headquarters of Tokugawa Ieyasu, Japan’s most famous shogun (or general). With the warriors came the farmers that fed them, the merchants, the businessmen, the artisans and the “women of pleasure.” By 1800, Tokyo was already the world’s largest city. The most Michelin stars, the most comprehensive rail transport system, the lowest crime rate. Sheer size, ever­-changing land- scape, incredible cultural offerings, bustling and hectic street life, fantastic shopping, kind and stylish people. Tokyo, we want to visit you, over and over again…

THE LAY OF THE LAND Tokyo is subdivided into 23 wards or districts, which are large areas with their own city governments, each encompassing several neighborhoods. Think of each ward as an independent city with its center anchored at a main train station. Plan your exploration itinerary by choosing the specific wards you want to see on a given day, sticking to the ones that neighbor each other to save travel time. Although you are likely to visit a number of wards for certain specific attractions, you will probably spend the vast majority of your time in the main areas of the city: Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku, Roppongi, Ginza and Central Tokyo’s three wards: Chiyoda, Chūō and Minato.

Shinjuku This is the city’s busiest and most diverse ward. Yes, you have arrived! The Tokyo of your imagination; what you have seen in pictures and movies: crowds, chaos, steel, glass, concrete, psychosis. Shinjuku instantly enwraps you into its frantic energy. Considered Tokyo’s downtown, Shinjuku boasts the world’s largest and most crowded rail station, serving more than three million passengers a day. With its many shops, eateries and crammed lobbies and corridors, the station is an attraction in itself, and you’ll probably get train connections here many times during your visit. Above and around the station you will find many of the city’s famous department stores, such as Odakyu, Keio and Takashimaya.

To the west of the station you will find many of the city’s government offices and tallest skyscrapers, including the Metropolitan Government Office, whose observatory is open to the public with no charge. It is also where most big name hotels are found, including the Park Hyatt, the Hyatt Regency and the Hilton.

Northeast of the station is Tokyo’s red light district, with numerous bars, restaurants, smoky and noisy pachinko parlors, love motels and nightclubs. While very interesting from a sociological perspective, showcasing some of Japan’s many subcultures and a place where many let loose and indulge in life’s hedonistic pleasures, you want to approach this area with certain care. It is dirty by Japanese standards, a haven for prostitution and the Yakuza, the infamous Japanese mafia. Although violent crime is not the issue, the area attracts those that will try to rip you off by offering entrance to “fun” places, only to then demand exorbi- tant fees once you are inside or overcharging for drinks and entertainment.

In the periphery of the red light district, between the Shinjuku City Office and Hanazono Shrine, is another hugely interesting area, both for its architecture and liveliness. This is the Golden Gai, a small network of very narrow alleys packed with many dozens of bars and eateries. It is an example of how the area near the station used to look before the large scale redevelop- ment that took place here after World War II. The buildings are old and decaying and the bars/restaurants are really tiny, some fitting five patrons at most. But do not let the appearances fool you, these rundown,­ dimly-­lit, scruffy alleys attract a well-­ heeled crowd and they pay a premium to drink here. While the bars cater to the bohemian and the artistic upper crust, some serve their regular patrons solely. However, economic forces speak louder, and many are now open to foreigners, with English menus set at the door. You might not want to stay for a long time, but having beer and sake here while grabbing a bite is defi- nitely a unique experience. Kampai!

Shinjuku has two main parks, Gyoen and Central Park. Gyoen is one of Tokyo’s largest and most pleasant green areas. It used to be a garden for the Imperial Family and remains a top cherry blossom viewing spot. Central Park is close to the large hotels and very popular with office workers at lunch time. Guidebooks call attention to its sizeable population of homeless people, although we were not able to spot any of them.

Near the seedy red light district is the largest gay area of Japan, known as Nichome,­ a cluster of older low rise buildings with hundreds of gay-­oriented establishments. See details in the “Where We Play” section.

Shibuya This is one of our favorite Tokyo wards. It is clean, orderly, full of color and the center of youth culture and fashion. This is the place where the consumerist subcultures gather and hang out, the cradle of many of Japan’s cultural and entertainment trends. It was the very first ward in Japan to offer domestic partner registration — making a big statement, even if the registra- tion had no official or legal benefits.

Rich with department stores and street shops catering to every taste and wallet, Shibuya receives millions of shoppers daily. Its most famous landmark, right across from its main train station, yet another of Tokyo’s transportation hubs, is Shibuya Crossing, a large intersection adorned with immense audio-animatronic­ billboards that is swarmed with pedestrians when the traffic lights turn green. Given the large crowds and vibrant atmosphere, the crossing is a favorite place for photos and movie makers trying to showcase the city. You can see the multitude of crossers from an elevated area through the glass walls of the Star- bucks at one of the intersection corners. But you come to Shibuya to shop and the area is to be explored slowly. Take your time and you’ll be rewarded. A place worth checking out is Shibuya Hikarie, a newly built tall building housing a cultural complex with a theater and exhibition floors, as well as shopping and dining.

And no visit to Shibuya would be complete without seeing the statue of the loyal dog Hachiko whose true story touched the hearts of the Japanese. According to the story, Hachiko waited for his master to return from work in front of Shibuya station every evening, continuing to do so for years even after his master passed away. The site is now one of Tokyo’s most popular meeting points.

Harajuku Located between Shinjuku and Shibuya, Harajuku is a delight. At first glance you may think this is another fancy ward filled with stores selling overpriced generic items. But start paying attention to the architecture around you and stroll its smaller streets and alleys and you’re bound to be pleasantly surprised. It seems the famous designers and brands of the world have gathered here to compete for the most architecturally impressive flagship store or most extravagant window. The stores in this Tokyo ward are so elaborately designed they are gigantic modern sculptures in their own right. Each store reveals fascinating curves and angles, interesting lighting effects and unusual building materials. The main boulevard here is Omotesando,­ a wide thoroughfare people say resembles the Champs Elysees. Walk along it towards Aoyama Dori and your modern architecture tour will unfold. The Prada and Comme des Garcons buildings are particularly remarkable. We also like the new Tokyu Plaza Omotesando Harajuku, a cool building with many floors of fashion.

On the opposite direction from Aoyama Dori, on the northern side of Omotesando­ is Takeshita Dori, a relatively narrow, pedestrian-­only street that is one of the centers of youth fashion. Here you’ll transition from elegant luxury to bizarreness, with stores selling all types of outlandish clothing and costumes, as well as ordinary everyday clothing. It is nonetheless a feast for the eyes, with kids congregating at corners and showing off their latest irreverent outfits, especially on Sunday afternoons, when they all seem to face off for attention.

If you feel saturated by high fashion or youth prodigality, move to the back streets and you’ll enjoy a panoply of independent seores, European­-style cafes, second­hand clothing shops, and art galleries. The district is also rich with smaller museums, including the Ota Memorial Museum of Art and the Nezu Museum. One of the most impressive sites of Tokyo is also here in this very interesting district: The simply magnificent Meiji Shrine. If you are lucky, you’ll witness a wedding ceremony with its delightful and ceremonious pageantry. This beautiful place is surrounded by a dense forest where one can forget this is the largest and most crowded city in the world. Lovely!

Ginza and Central Tokyo: Shopping is a way of life for most Tokyoites and nowhere in the country is it as upmarket as in Ginza, the famous shopping district. Every upscale brand you can think of has a flagship store here and it has a great concentration of department stores, including Mitsukoshi, Takashimaya (in a building with palatial architecture and white-gloved­ attendants) and Hankyu, which operates a large section devoted to men’s fashion. With all the upscale shopping has come the upscale services catering to the rich. This is the neighborhood where a $12 ice cream cone is commonplace and where a lot of the city’s fanciest restaurants are located. Fueling the Japanese obsession with anything French, Alain Ducasse’s Beige, the gastronomic temple, is found here, as is Lugdunum Bouchon Lyonnais, featuring Lyon’s distinctive cuisine.

Ginza is surrounded by other less expensive areas, including office clusters to the north where everyday salarymen go for lunch in the many reasonably priced, and quite good, noodle shops and Yakitori places. In addition, the Imperial Palace, where the emperor and his family still reside, is adjacent to Ginza. You can stroll the outer gardens and park around it, but the build- ings are off-limits to commoners. Politicos must stop at Yasukuni Jinja, the controversial shrine that celebrates the Japanese war victims. The National Museum of Modern Art, with its great collection of Meiji period pieces, is located here. And, for some- thing unusual and a feast for the senses, Tsukiji Market, the biggest fish market in the world.

Roppongi This famous Tokyo district has been a major entertainment district for decades, but unlike most other entertainment areas in the city, where access by non-­Japanese may be difficult, Roppongi caters heavily to Tokyo’s large expat community with many restaurants and clubs serviced by English-speaking­ employees and offering foreign ­language menus. This district has a signifi- cant concentration of embassies and foreign companies and tourists usually feel at home. Roppongi also boasts important mu- seums, including the National Art Center, the Mori Art Museum in the Roppongi Hills Complex and the Suntory Museum of Art in the Tokyo Midtown Complex. These museums and modern building complexes make for a good day of art gazing or pasta/ hamburger eating in case you are homesick. However, we cannot say this is an interesting place for the gays after the sun goes down. Straight testosterone is the norm and the area lacks authenticity due to its large gaijin concentration.

WHERE WE STAY Tokyo Shinjuku is the most convenient neighborhood for visitors who plan to go out to the gay bars. With the metro closed down from midnight/1am until 5am, taxis can be prohibitively expensive if you need to travel far. Likewise, if you’re on an early flight from Haneda or plan to visit the Tsukiji fish market (before November 2016) for the tuna auction, it’s helpful to stay near Shiodome.

Park Hyatt Tokyo Shinjuku http://tokyo.park.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotelstokyo­ park/index.jsp?null­ Playing a leading role in Sofia Coppola’s Lost in Translation, the Park Hyatt is Tokyo’s most famous hotel and its Shinjuku location makes it the most gay ­con- venient of the city’s ultra luxury hotels. If you can’t afford to stay here, check out our “Lost in Translation” experience for a taste of the extraordinary service and style of this landmark 178-room­ property.

The Peninsula Chiyoda http://www.peninsula.com/Tokyo/en/default.aspx The Imperial Palace­ adjacent location of the Peninsula gives its high-­tech rooms a unique amenity among central Tokyo hotels: greenery. The view of the Hibiya park and Palace gardens is a serene counterpoint to the hustle and bustle of Ginza, just a three-minute walk away. Even if you’re not staying here, be sure to pop in for a drink at Peter, the 24th floor bar, where Sunday through Thursday Happy Hour cocktails are just 700¥ from 5 to 8 p.m. (reservations recommended).

The Capitol Tokyu Hotel Chiyoda http://www.capitolhoteltokyu.com/en/ As one of only a handful of hotels in the Tokyo market actively marketing to the LGBT community, you can be assured of a warm and luxurious welcome at the Capitol Tokyu. Although it’s a step down from the ultra luxury of the Peninsula and Park Hyatt, its prices are usually two steps down, making it a great value as well. The modern/minimalist décor has a decidedly Jap- anese Zen feel, contributing to the generally calm and serene atmosphere of the hotel in general. The Imperial Palace­-adjacent location is ideal for joggers who want to run around the park.

The Park Hotel Tokyo Minato/Shiodome http://en.parkhoteltokyo.com/ This triangular-­shaped hotel is very active in marketing to the LGBT community. Its media ­center location and seasonal art displays in the domed atrium lobby make it a popular choice with creative types. The rooms are particularly small, but stylish and well-­appointed, and many offer dead­-on spectacular views of the Tokyo Tower. Be sure to join the free PARKS Membership program for added benefits that start with your very first stay (free gym access, complimentary bottled water, newspapers and a welcome drink). The location is convenient for both the Tsukiji fish market and close to the Hamamatsucho train station for the Monorail to Haneda airport, both within a 10-minute­ walk.

The Conrad Tokyo Minato/Shiodome http://conradhotels3.hilton.com/en/hotels/tokyo/conradtokyo­ TYOCICI/index.html­ Although the rooms at the Conrad aren’t quite as sophisticated and elegant as its luxury brethren, the public areas have a vibrancy and energy that’s super appealing. The location is convenient for both the Tsukiji fish market and close to the Hama- matsucho train station for the Monorail to Haneda airport, both within a 10-minute­ walk.

Courtyard by Marriott Tokyo Station http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/tyogz-courtyard-tokyo-station/ Not your grampa’s Courtyard by Marriott, this — dare we say — stylish and new hotel offers affordable accommodations just a few blocks from Tokyo Station, the city’s main transportation hub. Compact rooms are well-designed, and about 15% larger than most comparably priced hotels. Marriott Rewards Gold and Platinum members get extra-special treatment: an extensive full breakfast, and free specialty coffees throughout the day.

Claska Meguro http://www.claska.com/en/ This 15-­room boutique property in the furniture shopping district offers a truly unique experience among Tokyo lodgings. The mid­-century and cutting-edge­ Japanese modern design is sophisticated, attracting a fashionable crowd of locals to its lobby bar. The service is personal, relaxed and hip: it’s the only hotel where the front desk staff aren’t buttoned up in suits and ties. The location is a little off-­the-­beaten path for tourists, which could be appealing or inconvenient, depending on your perspec- tive. We loved walking around the neighborhood, but the 15-minute­ walk to the JR station and equal length train ride into central Tokyo could get tiresome.

The Hyatt Regency Tokyo Shinjuku http://tokyo.regency.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotelstokyo­ regency/index.jsp?null­ The Hyatt is our top choice of the business-class­ American brand hotels. We loved the bright indoor rooftop pool and hot tub, and the refined, masculine décor of the small rooms. The hotel offers complimentary shuttle bus service to Shinjuku station, or it’s about a 15-­minute walk, accessible through the city’s connected underground passageways. The basement level­ 7­-Eleven is super convenient for ATM cash access.

Citadines Shinjuku Tokyo Shinjuku East http://www.citadines.com/japan/tokyo/shinjuku.html This service d­epartments hotel is our top choice for location and value, the closest of our recommendations to the gay nightlife district of Shinjuku Ni­Chome (about a five­-minute walk). The rooms are compact (starting at 282 sq. ft.) but well equipped with a small seating area and a kitchenette.

Best Western ASTINA Shinjuku East http://japantraveleronline.com/hotel-detail/2612008/ If you don’t mind a cruise ­cabin sized room (most are 188 sq. ft.), this is a great value option at the edge of the Red Light district, walking distance to both the Shinjuku train station and the gay nightlife district. Rates include free wifi and breakfast. There’s a 24-­hour Lawson convenience store on the first floor and a guest laundry on premises. For a small surcharge, upgrade to the Executive floor where you’ll enjoy larger rooms, upgraded amenities and an executive lounge.

Airbnb https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/161044 Renting an apartment or room in Tokyo can be a great option, and renting one from a gay Airbnb host in Tokyo is a terrific way to help conquer the logistical challenges here. Our friend Loren rents a room in his apartment, very well-located­ and affordably priced. But most importantly, if you aren’t already well-connected­ here, Loren and Ivan will help you navigate your visit.

WHERE WE EAT With more Michelin-starred­ restaurants than any other world capital, Tokyo is a foodie’s delight. From the hautest of haute cui- sine to the ubiquity of cheap ramen noodles, Tokyo can satisfy any craving you might have. Finding the right venues, however, can be a challenge, with many restaurants located off main streets or off the ground floor, and signage only in Japanese — and even then sometimes tiny and not very visible.

On the bright side, many restaurants have plastic food displays in their windows and picture menus, so you don’t have to wander hungry looking for a restaurant with an English menu. We ate many satisfying meals by just stumbling upon places that looked interesting and ordering by pointing. The department stores are another convenient option, known for excellent and reasonably-priced­ fare.

If you have a reservation somewhere, be sure to have your hotel print out a map and directions. Kaiseki http://en.wikipedia. org/wiki/Kaiseki menus are popular here, essentially a tasting menu series of small dishes, running the gamut from simple to elaborate. They’re a great way to sample a variety of Japanese dishes, knowing that if you’re not keen on one or two of them, you’ll still have plenty to eat. (Most Kaiseki meals end with a rice dish to ensure you don’t leave hungry!) Bento.com http://www.bento.com/tfrest.html­ is the best English language resource for local Tokyo restaurants.

Below are a few of the restaurants we particularly enjoyed:

Yuian https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g1066457-d2015821-Reviews-Yuian-Shinjuku_Tokyo_Tokyo_Prefecture_Kanto.html This upscale Izakaya (Japanese Pub) offers decent food in a stylish setting with killer views — It’s on the 52nd floor of the Shin- juku Sumitomo Building.

Teyandei http://www.bento.com/rev/2133.html If you can find your way to this two-story­ converted house on a quiet back street in NishiAzabu,­ you’ll be rewarded with excel- lent food at affordable prices and an atmosphere that feels authentically fun, hip and local. They also have a branch in Shibuya.

Kozue http://tokyo.park.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/Kozue.html If you’re going to splurge for one special meal in Tokyo, this is the place. With jaw-dropping­ views from the 40th floor of the Park Hyatt Hotel, Kozue serves Japanese food with overtones of California cuisine. Dishes are presented with elegance and flair, on the chef’s personal collection of 4,000 pieces of china, porcelain and earthenware. The waitstaff is well-versed­ in explaining the food in English, making for a memorable and understandable experience.

Matsukawa https://www.yelp.com/biz/ Unagi (eel) is one of those foods that scares off many western palates, and it shouldn’t. It’s a delicious, meaty white fish that most everyone likes once it’s been filleted and cooked. It can be a pricey delicacy in Japan, and best eaten in a traditional restaurant specializing in it. Matsukawa is affordable and unassuming, and easy to locate just off the world’s busiest intersec- tion in Shibuya.

Tofuya­Ukai http://gourmettraveller.wordpress.com/2012/09/26/tokyoshiba­ tofuya­ ukai­ / Set in an old brewery that was relocated amidst beautiful gardens in the shadow of the Tokyo Tower (no trouble finding this restaurant!), Tofuya­Ukai serves a Kaiseki meal featuring tofu specialties, though including fish, meat and other courses as well. It’s prettiest for lunch or an early dinner, with the gardens in full view.

Gonpachi http://japantourist.jp/view/gonpachithe­ kill­ bill­ restaurant­ This is the Kill Bill restaurant, whose interiors were faithfully recreated as a set for Quentin Tarantino’s hit movie. We can’t really recommend it for the food, which is just good, not great, but the décor is evocative, plus it’s super easy to find, very accustomed to serving foreigners (the most famous of which are in pictures plastered all over the entry), and has a menu that’s geared towards foreign palates — the avocado and camembert cheese tempura is a big hit. Tonkatsu Yachiyo http://tokyofood.blog128.fc2.com/blogentry­ 46.html­ Located in the Tsukiji fish market, Tonkatsu Yachiyo is known for fried seafood, and a roast pork/fried egg dish that is so popular, it sells out before 8 a.m. Located next to the very famous Sushi Dai, which always has an enormous line, so you can’t miss it.

Yakiniku Kunimoto http://fumipuriri.blogspot.com/2010/12/yakinikukunimoto.html­ Japan is famous for its beef — genetically bred for intense marbling and a high percentage of good fats, omega3­ and omega­6. You can spend ungodly sums of money to eat it in the tourist-popular­ hotel restaurants. At Kunimoto in Hamamatsucho, it’s at least fairly-­priced, and oh so good.

WHERE WE PLAY Despite the hundreds of gay bars in Tokyo, there are only a few options for non-Japanese­ speaking customers. Our best advice would be to start at Advocates Café. Make friends here with a local or two, and they can help you explore some of the bars that are less easily accessed. Tokyo is a hard-working city and the bar scene can be quiet on weeknights, and many patrons clear out just before midnight to catch the last subway or train home. On weekends, the scene gets busy around 9 or 10, and can stay busy through ‘til 5am, when the trains start running again.

Both OutAsia Travel offers nighttime tours of Shinjuku — basically a gay guide to bring you to two or three of the bars that welcome foreigners, and generally show you the land. Even with good directions, it may not be so easy to find many places. Be sure to look up for signs, as many bars are not on the street level. At most bars, you’ll pay a cover charge with your first drink, and the bar master, or Mamasan (owner/manager), will be your genial host, making introductions, helping guys meet and mingle, and generally ensuring that everyone is comfortable and having a good time. Dancing was banned in Shinjuku’s gay clubs in August of 2012, with signs and tables installed on the dance floor to deter dancing. Some dancing still occurs, but not a full-­on dance scene.

You’ll also find many “Host Bars” in Shinjuku, where legal prostitution occurs. Here you pay for your cover and drink and pe- ruse the young men (and most are indeed young, at 18-25).­ Find one you like, and you’ll pay a separate fee for an hour of his time. Most have rooms upstairs that are sometimes included in the host rental fee, or charged additionally.

Saunas can be even less welcoming of foreigners than bars, for all of the same reasons, combined with an prejudicial fear of HIV as a foreigners’ disease. If saunas are your thing, you’ll need to know the etiquette: Upon arrival, you’ll place your shoes in a shoe locker, and change into a pair of slippers. Buy an admission ticket from the machine, and then take your shoe locker key and ticket to the front desk, where you’ll get a clothing locker key, towel, bathrobe and wash cloth. If you walk to the front desk in your shoes, your ignorance of the local customs will very likely result in denied admission.

We’ve listed a few of our favorites below, but for the most extensive and up-to-­ ­date bar, club and sauna listings, the best refer- ence is TravelGayAsia.com. http://www.travelgayasia.com/tokyo-gay-bars/

A printout of their gay map http://www.travelgayasia.com/gay-map-of-tokyo/ is also very useful.

Advocates Café http://advocates-cafe.com­ This street front bar is easy to find (although the Google Map currently has it misplaced!), and very welcoming to foreigners. It’s a great place to begin your night in Shinjuku. Although the bar itself is small, the crowd often spills out into the street.

Bridge Bar http://bridge-shibuya.com This small, comfortable upscale bar feels a little bit like a western wine bar. The bar itself is nonsmoking­ (a pleasant rarity), with an outdoor terrace to accommodate smokers.

Kusuo http://www.timeout.jp/en/tokyo/venue/726/Kusuo Karaoke is huge in Japan, and for gays, this is the place — a rollicking fun place, with a particularly foreigner-friendly­ mamasan and staff who will make sure you meet cute guys.

GB http://www.timeout.com/tokyo/lgbt/gb Very cruisy, very crowded, very smoky, GB is very popular with foreigners and the “potato queens” or “gaisen” (Japanese gays who like foreign men).

Club Dragon http://www.travelgayasia.com/venue/dragon/ This is Shinjuku’s leather/levis/macho bar, with buff shirtless bartenders and an aggressively masculine clientele. It can get hot and sweaty on the weekends, with occasional dark room action on the dancefloor.

Shangri­La at AgeHa http://www.ageha.com/gn/ja/events/index.html Once every two months or so, the largest gay monthly party in Asia happens at AgeHa, one of Tokyo’s biggest clubs. The club is far, but offers a shuttle bus service to and from Shinjuku. Check their website for details and dates.

24Kaikan http://www.juno.dti.ne.jp/~kazuo24/english/english This is the largest and most popular sauna in Shinjuku (with two additional locations in Tokyo), welcoming of foreigners. It is busiest on weekends, particularly during the hours when the trains aren’t running, and guys are killing a few hours waiting for dawn.

WHERE WE SHOP Tokyo’s shopping districts are filled with all of the world’s foremost brands. And the city is well known for its ¥100 stores, sell- ing all kinds of cheap goods for... ¥100. Here are some of our other favorite shopping experiences:

Takashimaya http://www.takashimaya.co.jp/store/foreign/index.html Japan’s flagship department store, has two locations in Tokyo, though the Shinjuku branch is definitely the one to hit for men’s fashion.

Gallery & Shop “Do” http://www.claska.com/en/shop/ “Do” is both a gallery and a shop, featuring an exquisitely curated selection of Japanese design and crafts. The flagship store is located at the Claska hotel in Meguro, with an additional branch in Shibuya (and one in Osaka as well.) This is a great place to shop for souvenirs and gifts.

Hollywood Ranch Market http://www.hrm.co.jp/english/shop_and_import.html The Japanese are crazy for vintage Americana, and Hollywood Ranch Market has made an industry of selling it, in seven differ- ent stores, of which our favorite is Journey in Shibuya.

Oedo Antique Market http://www.antique-market.jp/english/ If you’re in Tokyo on the first or third Sunday of the month, check out the largest outdoor antique market in Japan. You’ll find all kinds of objects, from the 14th century right up through the post war period. Conveniently located close to the Imperial Palace and Ginza, it’s just five minutes by foot from Tokyo Station (and one minute from Yurakucho Station) at the Tokyo International Forum.

WHERE WE WORKOUT There are 11 Gold’s Gyms http://www.goldsgym.com/internationalgyms/JP­ in Tokyo, all of which are reasonably gay popular. The Harajuku branch is enormous, open 24 hours a day (except Sunday nights), and has panoramic views from its enormous windows.

WHAT WE SEE/DO Forget a long weekend, you could spend weeks in Tokyo and only scratch the surface of its sightseeing riches. Here are a few of our favorites:

Ueno Park http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ueno_Park Ueno was Tokyo’s first public park, an expansive area that is now home to several museums, temples, galleries, theaters and a zoo. But mostly, it’s just beautiful to walk around and is the most popular place for viewing cherry blossoms. Tsukiji Fish Market http://www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/tukiji_e.htm Tsukiji is the world’s largest fish market, and seeing it in action, with its quantity and variety is mind-blowing.­ It’s moving No- vember 7, 2016 to an larger and more modern facility built on Tokyo Bay. The tuna auction will have a better setup for tourists, but the wholesale market will be much more sterile (literally and atmospherically) and harder to get to. The old “outer market,” where most tourists end up anyway, will remain at Tsukiji. In the meantime, you can still visit the old wholesale market, but here’s the deal: People are doing business here, and having tourists crowding the stalls is disruptive and dangerous. So securi- ty guards spot the tourists approaching and hand them an information sheet in English telling you the market itself is off limits. But it is a public market, and lots of people will be flowing in and out of it to shop. If you’re determined to see it, you can simply follow them. Arrive around 7:30-­8. Wear appropriate footwear – you may be stepping in water, fish blood and who knows what else. Don’t stop to take photos. Walk like you’re looking for something specific. Carry some empty plastic bags. And just know that if every tourist did just as we say, the market wouldn’t function.

A limited number of tourists are allowed in to see the tuna auctions every morning, which requires getting in line around 4:30am. We had all intentions of doing that, right down to booking a close hotel so we could walk there. But it didn’t happen.

Meiji Shrine http://www.meijijingu.or.jp/english/index.html Shinto is Japan’s original ancient religion. It has no founder or holy book, but is based on harmony with nature. It is fitting that the Meiji Shrine is set in a forest of 170,000 hand­-planted trees, dedicated to the late 19th-century­ emperor who opened Japan to the West. Unlike the frenetic and touristy Senso­ji Buddhist temple in Asakusa, the mood here is serene and peaceful. Read about shrine etiquette http://www.meijijingu.or.jp/english/your/1.html here.

Senso­Ji Temple (Asakusa Kannon) http://www.japanguide.com/e/e3001.html­ This is Tokyo’s oldest temple and one of the city’s most colorful and popular tourist destinations with 30 million visitors annu- ally. A centuries-old­ shopping street lines the 200-yard stretch from the outer gate to the inner gate, with stalls selling snacks and souvenirs.

Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building Observatory http://www.tokyometro.jp/en/attractions/metropolitan_govt_bldg/ The best view in Tokyo is free and open to the public from 9:30 a.m.-11­ p.m., 359 days a year. If you have the time, check out the different views from both the north and south towers.

Sumo Wrestling http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2080.html If your Tokyo visit happens to fall during one of the 15-­day tournaments in January, May and September, by all means go catch a match at the National Sumo Hall. Getting tickets to a morning or mid-day­ match is generally easy, and be sure not to miss the ceremonies at the start of a new round. If your visit doesn’t coincide with a tournament, you may be able to visit an early morning training session at one of the Sumo stables. Ask your concierge or a Japanese-speaking­ friend to call for you to find a team practice that allows visitors.

Edo­Tokyo Museum https://www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/en/ This fascinating museum chronicles 400 years of Tokyo history and culture from the establishment of Edo in 1590 to mod- ern-day Tokyo. The original and reconstructed exhibits and large-scale models reveal the various influences and massive changes that shaped the city.

National Museum of Emerging Science (Miraikan) http://www.miraikan.jst.go.jp/en/ One of the best educational science museums in the world, with a spectacular planetarium and hands-on­ exploration of cutting-­edge technology including virtual reality rides and opportunities to interact with robots. Most everything, from space exploration to nano­technology, is explained on English ­language touch­screens and by a helpful volunteer staff.

Sumida River Cruise http://www.suijobus.co.jp/cruise/station/hamariq.html Water access is part of the reason Tokyo became the capital it did, and seeing the city from the water offers a remarkable glimpse into the strategic importance of its setting. A number of cruises are available, but for a quick taste of the waterfront, we like the 45-­minute ride from Asakusa to Hamarikyu Gardens, which doubles as convenient transportation between these two tourist highlights. (720¥ for the boat, and you must pay the 300¥ entrance fee for the gardens to disembark there.) Hamarikyu Gardens http://teien.tokyo-park.or.jp/en/hama-rikyu/ This garden by Tokyo Bay was originally a Shogun’s seaside dwelling, with two ponds set up for duck hunting in the late 18th century. With a peony garden, plum tree grove and cosmos fields, it is planted to be attractive in all seasons, though particu- larly so for spring cherry blossoms and fall maple leaves. There is a lovely tea house on a bridge in the middle of the pond and an enormous 300-year-­old pine tree. Even more surprising, there is a free English audio guide that describes the history and unique features of the gardens. The gardens are on Tokyo Bay in Shiodome and accessible by the Sumida River Cruise (water- bus) from Asakusa.

GET SMART Check out our “getting around” article for essential information on navigating Tokyo. It is virtually impossible for foreigners to get a Japanese sim card. You can rent cell phones at Narita or Haneda airports, but they must be returned to the same location. You can get a card for two weeks of free wifi http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/indepth/ exotic/JapanesQue/special/ntteast.html at Narita, good at more than 17,000 hotspots in eastern Japan. Although most establishments now take credit cards, cash is still very popular in Japan, and very few ATMs accept foreign cards. Those at 7­11 and the Seven Bank do. The stored-value IC Payment Cards http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2359_003. html that are so useful for trains and subways can also be used at many convenience stores.

All transactions involve an unusual amount of ritual: Instead of handing cash or plastic to a cashier, you’ll place it on a little tray and receive your change or receipt the same way. Tipping is not a part of Japanese culture, but be sure to say thank you, “domo arigato,” or “arigato gozaimasu” with a slight bow of your head.

The Japan National Tourism Organization http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/ has voluminous information for tourists, including a YouTube channel and downloadable brochures.

SKIP IT Imperial Palace http://www.kunaicho.go.jp/eindex.html You won’t actually get to see the palace, just the inner gardens — and that’s with a reservation at least a week in advance on a very structured tour filled with Japanese tour bus groups. Without a reservation, you’re really seeing nothing more than the walls. That said, the outer East Garden is open to the public (and free) — a magnificent oasis in the middle of Tokyo. 5. JAPAN TOURING HIGHLIGHTS 5. JAPAN TOURING HIGHLIGHTS

BEYOND TOKYO Here you will find an introduction to the general appeal and specific highlights of the destinations in our recommended Japan discovery itinerary. Hotel and restaurant recommendations are located in the Recommended Itinerary Section.

KYOTO With wow at almost every corner, wandering around Kyoto takes your mind places. It is a voyage of satisfaction and pleasure, for the eyes and for the spirit. How a single city built so many majestic, colorful and unique temples and shrines is beyond compre- hension. Every street takes you somewhere beautiful, every shop makes you want something, and any time you spend here feels short. We were mesmerized by the chanting monks, intrigued by the food, captivated by the giggly kimono-clad­ girls and wished we were Japanese to call the city our own. The political capital of Japan from 794 until 1868, Kyoto is where the Japanese come to understand their own culture and celebrate their traditions. They come here to show pride for their country, to reconnect with tradition and to immerse themselves in ethereal contemplation.

Kyoto’s cultural significance and beauty are so remarkable that the American generals excluded it from the list of potential atom- ic bomb targets and extensive air raids during World War II. The result of this good fortune is a modern city of approximately 1.5 million people living amidst marvelously well-preserved temples, shrines, castles and historic neighborhoods — all with verdant nature as a backdrop. Its atmospheric streets are filled with galleries and studios selling handmade pottery and incense stores that perfume its narrow alleys. Kyoto is the heart and soul of Japan and a visit here will reward you with lifetime memories.

As one of Japan’s main cultural sites, Kyoto has easy rail connections. From Tokyo, the Hikari Shinkansen (Bullet Train) will take you there in less than three hours. From Osaka, it is a quick 15-minute­ ride on the Hiraki Shinkansen or 30 minutes on the JR Tokaido line. Kansai Airport, Japan’s second busiest airport, is about an hour away on the Haruka JR Limited Express. All these train lines are accessible with your JRPass.

We recommend you spend three or four nights in Kyoto. Spend less time here and you’ll be rushing. Kyoto is laid out in a grid and, differently from most Japanese cities, its streets have names, making it easy to explore. Walking is the best way to discover the city, but you’ll need to use buses and the subway to get from one neighborhood to the other. Get a city map at the tourist office in the main train station upon arrival or at your hotel/ryokan. The maps show the sights prominently and will guide you around with ease. Bear in mind you will have to pay to visit most sites, with admission fees usually ranging from 400¥ to 1000¥. Also, many sights close before 5 p.m., so your temple visiting time might end early. However, illumination events take place in spring and autumn, when temples stay open until around 9 p.m. and get illuminated with lanterns and other special lighting devices, creating a unique and atmospheric opportunity. Check out http://www.hanatouro.jp for the specific dates of the lighting events this year.

To help you save time, split the city into three main areas — Higashiyama and Western Kyoto, Arashiyama and Eastern Kyoto, and Gion and Central Kyoto.

Higashiyama, on the footsteps of Kyoto’s mountains to the east, is the city’s main historic district. This is where you’ll get a feeling for old and traditional Kyoto, and where some of the most impressive sights are found. Do not think you will be templed out, the religious sites here are very diverse and unique, and you are sure to be delighted by most. Just open the map and join the pilgrimage. Between Kiyomizudera Temple and Yasaka Shrine is a fantastic cluster of wooden buildings, old merchant homes and narrow lanes full of small shops, cafes and restaurants. You can easily spend two days here, visiting the temples/ shrines, browsing the shops and wandering the streets and parks. Besides Kiyomizudera and Yasaka, which are definitely must-­sees, other main sights not to be missed are Ginkakuji (or Silver Pavilion, although it is not actually covered in silver), Nanzenji and Sanjusangendo temples.

Arashiyama, on the western part of the city, has another impressive cluster of temples and shrines. It may feel even more touristy than Higashiyama, but venture away from the main streets and it becomes more rural, where you’ll find many smaller temples and gardens. Do not miss a walk through the bamboo groves, the Okochi Sanso Villa with its impressive gardens and great views, Tenryuji Temple, Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple and Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple (famous for its stone statues). Going north you’ll find Kinkakuji, an impressive golden structure and one of the most visited places in Kyoto. Going south, you’ll find Fushimi Inari Shrine. We cannot emphasize how impressive Fushimi Inari is. A huge complex going up a mountain through thousands of vermilion torii gates, you will need more than three hours to climb to the top and get back down, and your glutes will feel the workout the next day. But persist and you’ll have seen one of the most special and sacred places in Japan.

Gion is the famous geisha district. It is rich with shops, expensive restaurants, ochaya or tea houses, and old merchant houses. Geishas and Maikos (apprentice Geishas) roam these streets on their way to and from engagements, but be discreet if you spot one of them: they are serious professionals and do not enjoy the paparazzi. Another scenic part of Gion is the Shirakawa area along the canal, with beautiful willow trees and independent shops. This is a good place to have some tea with a view of the canal.

Nara: The first permanent capital of Japan, Nara is simply pretty and makes an easy and quick day trip or overnight from Kyoto. It has a small town feel and most attractions are within a beautifully kept park full of friendly deer (they will approach you fear- lessly, especially if you offer them special crackers that are for sale in the park). The fresh green park air, the compact tourist area filled with beautiful landmarks, the gracious lanterns all around, the tall pagodas and friendly locals eager to practice their English make a trip here highly rewarding. Although most Nara temples and landmarks are beautiful, the main attraction is the Giant Buddha. This magnificent statue is so grand, it will wash you with emotion. One can stare at it all day and not tire. Visiting Nara for this moment alone is already worth your time!

Osaka: Given its international airport and proximity to many important tourist areas, Osaka serves as the main gateway to ma- jor destinations, including Kyoto, Nara and Kobe. Considered the ugly duckling of Japan’s big megalopolises, Osaka has been a major economic force in the Kansai region for centuries. But what Osaka does not have in terms of physical beauty, it more than compensates for with its seemingly endless energy, something that is felt instantly when walking its streets. Only Tokyo surpasses it as an example of the Japanese urban modernity. And similarly to Tokyo, Osaka is to be experienced in its totality, and casual strolls may be even more rewarding than structured tours. However, while Tokyo can feel isolating and cold, with sophisticates too busy to bother with anybody outside their métier, Osaka feels warm and relaxed. This is thanks to its delightful people who seem to take real interest in welcoming and engaging with visitors. They are a big part of what makes this city such an attractive place. Osakans are proud of their heritage and local dialect and yet exude a sense of humility one does not usually experience in other large Japanese cities. They will talk to you in the subway, introduce themselves at the bars, go out of their way to help you and smile, brightly and often. A city obsessed with food, Osaka has more restaurants per capita than anywhere else in the country and possibly in the world. The architecture here is also impressive, as are its many museums and lively nightlife — a party town at heart, and so much more approachable. Osaka is proof that size does matter, but it is not necessarily better. Ok, Tokyo?

An old city with more than 1,500 years of history and currently home to nearly three million, Osaka first gained national impor- tance in the 16th century when Hideyoshi Toyotomi, the most powerful feudal lord at the time, built Japan’s most magnificent castle here. He also attracted merchants from all over the country and transformed the city into a major distribution center and commerce hub — a legacy that persists to this day.

A visit to the castle is at the top of anyone’s list. It is an impressively beautiful structure and a history lesson with its many descriptive panels and well laid out exhibits. The top floor is an observation area where one can grasp the enormity of the city and the strategic location of this fortress. The National Art Museum is a piece of art in itself, with its steel pipes and geometric forms that seem to resemble a sailboat (or bamboo plant for some). Next to it is the fun Osaka Science Museum, with very ed- ucational and interactive displays on the universe, chemistry, electricity and energy that please the most demanding child in all of us. The Umeda Sky Building is Osaka’s most dramatic modern building, and looks like a version of Paris’s La Defense Arch. The view from the top is magnificent, especially at sunset, when one can see all the way to Kobe. Other main sights include the Osaka Aquarium with its enormous whale shark, the futuristic nightscapes of the Dōtombori area and the wonderful Museum of Old Japanese Farmhouses. Of note, if you are heading to Takayama or Shirakawago,­ you may want to skip this museum as you’ll find examples of real farmhouses there other than only replicas.

KOYASAN Koyasan is an active monastic complex founded 12 centuries ago for the study and practice of the esoteric Shingon Buddhism, created by Kobo Daishi (774­-835 AD), or “Kukai,” as he is also known. He is possibly one of the most revered figures in Japan and is not only remembered as a saint who created Koyasan, but also as a scholar, savior, spiritual healer, calligrapher, inventor of the Japanese Kana syllabary and founder of Japanese Buddhism and public schools. Seeking to create harmony between nature and people, his religious teachings have had a special appeal to the Japanese for ages and the sect has maintained a wide following to this day.

Situated on a plain at about 800 meters above sea level, Koyasan is home to about 3,000 people, a great number of them monks, has more than 100 temples and boasts the simply incredible Okunoin Cemetery. Visiting Koyasan, and spending a night at one of the temples, will provide you with one of the most intense and authentic of Japanese experiences.

The main highlight of Koyasan, and possibly of anyone’s visit to Japan, is a day spent at the sprawling cemetery. Set among towering cedar trees that are hundreds of years old, the cemetery is an ocean of more than 200,000 ancient tombstones and monuments. Walking the grounds here provided us with a very different atmosphere than any other cemetery we had ever visited. The randomness of the monuments and the neutrality of the colors allow them to blend into the environment with ease. The spectacular views and sights at every glimpse, the smell of moss and grass, the freshness of the air, and the light that infiltrates through the leaves all contribute to an ethereal ambiance that overtakes the senses. Even the nonreligious will feel touched by the serenity and spirituality of this most sacred of places. Dignitaries and emperors are buried here, as well as Kobo Daishi himself, in the mausoleum that bears his name. Among the many landmarks of the cemetery is the awe-inspiring­ Torodo, or the Hall of Lanterns, where thousands of lanterns are lit for eternity. This is not a place to rush, worthy of two visits: one by day, another by night.

On the opposite side of the cemetery are numerous other extraordinary places of worship and monuments. These include the Daimon, the main gate to the town; Danjo Garan, a religious precinct with various monuments; and Konpon Daito, the beautiful orange pagoda.

Life in Koyasan follows a specific tempo. Days start early, at the crack of dawn, when travellers staying at the temple lodges are invited to join the morning prayers with chanting placing the body in a meditative state. After prayers comes breakfast, also served in the temple, together with other temple guests. After that, it is sightseeing time. Then, in the early evening, usually at around 5 p.m., is meditation time back at the temple lodge, followed by dinner. The food, as one would expect in a Buddhist environment, is simple and vegetarian, but still rather tasty. After dinner is bath time, with women segregated from men. The bath is traditional Japanese “ufuro” style. This is a wonderful time to get to know the other guests. Some of the monks might join you in the bath, too. It felt surreal to be naked in a hot tub with monks and others, learning about monk life and Buddhism while exchanging travel tips and experiences. After bathing, you will probably be tired and feeling relaxed and ready for bed (or futon to be specific, as there are no western style beds in the temples). But we encourage you to brush tiredness away and head out again. Nights, and the cemetery in particular, are eery in Koyasan, and a night stroll will be yet another highlight of your stay.

Most visitors come for a night only. A suggested plan is to arrive in Koyasan as early as possible, drop your bags at the temple lodge, and head out to explore the cemetery and its monuments. Watch the time so you are back at the lodge for meditation and dinner. There is no room for tardiness here; this is a Buddhist complex and discipline is key. After dinner, if your energy level allows, head out again. On the next day, after breakfast, you can explore the town outside the cemetery before departing sometime in the early afternoon.

Koyasan, despite its importance, does not feel overrun by mass tourism yet, although the number of tourists has been increas- ing yearly. The area is best accessible from Osaka’s Namba Station through the Nankai Electric Railway. From Osaka, you’ll arrive at Gokurakubashi, where you’ll change to the cable car that will take you up the mountain to Koyasan Station. From the station in Koyasan, you will take the bus line that crisscrosses­ the town and stops along the temple lodges. This sounds some- what involved, but it is easy in practice. The train and cable car schedules are synchronized, so there is never a long wait, and the town buses run often and have multiple stops (announcements on the trains, cable car and buses are in both Japanese and English). The whole trip takes about two hours (from Osaka). The officialKoyasan Tourist Association (http://eng.shukubo.net) website offers good resources for you to plan your trip to Koyasan, including a listing of the temple lodges, reservation assis- tance and maps of the cemetery and the town. Once you make your reservation, they will provide you with travel information and the bus stop nearest your temple lodge.

NIKKO Nikko, in the mountains about 100 miles northwest of Tokyo, makes for a good day or overnight trip. The town boasts some of the oldest and most extraordinary temples in Japan. We found their carvings and other artwork to be even more elaborate than the temples of Kyoto, and were impressed by their size and intense colors, not to mention the nice scent of incense every- where.

Nikko is a very popular destination and you’ll see hordes of tourists almost anywhere you look, but don’t let its popularity deter you. The beauty of the monuments here is probably unmatched, some built more than a thousand years ago, and the nature around you just makes the place irresistible. It is no surprise there is a Japanese saying that tells you to “never say ‘kekko’ until you have seen Nikko,” kekko meaning magnificent or beautiful.

It is a very easy place to visit as all of the main temples are within one area, all placed somewhat next to each other, so there is no getting lost here. Among the many landmarks within the complex are the Toshogu Shrine, the super lavish Tokugawa mausoleum, and the Rinnoji Temple, the most important of the places of worship in Nikko. Please take note that Rinnoji is be- ing renovated and construction will last at least until 2020. Although it is fully covered from the outside, you can still visit part of the inside, including the area where the actual renovations are happening. We did not like the fact you have to pay an extra fee to visit the construction site, but we were nearly shocked to see how complicated and what a massive undertaking it is to restore these temples.

In addition to the temples, the town is divided by a scenic river, and has a few pretty buildings and a lovely red bridge (Shinkyo Bridge) that is emblematic of Japan, adorning the covers of picture books and postcards. Built in the 17th century, it is actually considered one of the three prettiest bridges in the country. The town center offers some nice souvenir shopping, with stores selling different and interesting types of pickled vegetables, mini Japanese cheesecakes and pastries (all wrapped up indi- vidually, obviously — this country is obsessed with wrapping), fruit juice-infused­ honey, among other delicacies and random tchotchkes. The other very attractive aspect of the town is that it is located by Nikko National Park, one of the most beautiful wooded areas of the country. It has spectacular waterfalls and scenic trails. The tourist office at Nikko’s train station can help you organize an excursion to see the park. They are extremely helpful, speak fluent English and know what to advise visitors. A warning is to be mindful that taxis are exorbitant, so your best option is to use the tourist bus system, for which schedules and information maps are also provided by the tourist office.

Another lovely idea is to visit the park, temples and shrines during the day and spend the night in one of the many ‘onsen’ (or hot springs) ryokans in the area. The warm bath will relax and rejuvenate you, and you’ll be able to experience the Japanese at their most tranquil and spontaneous. It is important to read about Japanese etiquette (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eti- quette_in_Japan) before you visit an onsen (or Japan for that matter), especially if you venture into a public onsen, outside of your ryokan. The combined pleasure of visiting one of the most incredible shrines of Japan, admiring some of its most splendid nature spots, and soaking up with locals, is very hard to beat.

TAKAYAMA and SHIRAKAWA­GO Takayama, a gateway to the Japanese Alps, has managed to maintain an old traditional feel thanks to its cluster of beauti- fully maintained merchant homes and its isolated geography in the middle of the Hida mountains. It is the perfect place to unwind, roam the streets aimlessly, browse cute shops and art galleries, indulge a stay in a ryokan, enjoy the surrounding nature and savor some truly delicious local cuisine, especially if you are an avid carnivore (the famous Hida beef is a local highlight).

Takayama gives you a true taste of the Japanese countryside, far from the hustle and bustle of the large cities. It is a sleepy place where Japanese tourists abound, but international ones are still relatively few, giving foreign visitors a unique op- portunity to experience the pace of an all-Japanese destination (we were surprised to get stopped on the streets by locals eager to know where we were visiting from).

A relatively small town with a population of approximately 90,000, the town has some peculiar attractions that make it a special destination. The mornings start with a visit to the markets (Takayama has two main ones), where you’ll be able to taste and buy local produce, and get a feel for the daily routine of the locals. Old ladies crushing peppers, young farmers slicing and bagging fresh fruit, tea tasting booths and grilled beef on skewers are some of the simple things you’ll see here. The rest of the day is pleasurably spent exploring the old town, with its many old homes, coffee houses and sake breweries, some of which have been in operation for centuries.

Many of the old private homes are open to the public, having been transformed into museums that show the living quarters of the wealthy merchants of the time. A visit to Takayama Jinya, a preserved old government building, offers enlightening details of how the government used to work during the shogun times, including the tax structure and the management (and torture) of prisoners. The Hida Archeology Museum also makes a good step back in time, with a courtyard and well that have not changed since the Edo period. Not to be missed is a visit to Hida no Sato, an open air museum of many typical farmhouses that were transplanted here from all over the region. The farmhouses are locally known as “gassho-zukuri”­ due to their thick and stunning thatched roofs that look like praying hands. The buildings have been very well preserved and you can roam around in them freely and mostly on your own. They show everyday utensils that made life possible at the time and each has indoor fireplaces that are still lit every day and fill the air with the pleasant scent of burning wood.

Takayama is easily reached by rail from the major cities and it is compact enough to be explored on foot. But we recommend you take the bus to reach Hida no Sato, otherwise you’ll walk for 40 minutes through an uninteresting residential neighbor- hood. The buses to Hida no Sato depart from the Takayama Bus Station located adjacent to the Takayama JR Train Station. Be sure to stop by any of the tourist information offices around town and retrieve the city map which lays out the landmarks and main streets to visit. One of the tourist offices is located at the the rail station, but you can find others at the bus station or in the old town. The guides speak English and are very helpful with tips for dinner and sightseeing (one even took the time to personally walk us to a favorite local restaurant, as finding specific places is often a challenge).

Two unrushed days are plenty for Takayama. However, if you are in the region, we highly recommend a day trip or overnight to Shirakawa­go, a World Heritage Site area famous for its gassho-zukuri­ farmhouses. Ogimachi is the main village of Shirakawa-­ -go, but it is still tiny and offers an excellent opportunity to see rural Japan. Rice paddies and little ponds and streams teeming with fish are all around you and make for a unique countryside experience. Here, the day is spent going into the farmhouses and tiny shops, as well as hiking the trails to the observation areas for a bird eye’s view of Ogimachi. The very best way to experience the village is to stay overnight at one of the farmhouses, many of which have been converted into minshukus (family-owned guest houses). All of them are very humble and simple, with no luxury at all. But they offer an unforgettable “night at the farm” and will allow you to practice your communication skills with local families, eat their food and get closely acquainted with the farmhouse architecture. Such connection with the local culture is rare and will broaden your perspectives for life. 6. JAPAN RECOMMENDED ITINERARY 6. JAPAN RECOMMENDED ITINERARY, HOTELS & RESTAURANTS

Despite its small size, Japan is dense with appeal for visitors. Our recommended itinerary covers just Honshu, one of four main islands (of 6,852 islands total) in the Japanese Archipelago. You could spend months exploring them all, but assuming you have just one or ­two weeks, here are our suggestions for how and where to spend them. A lot of travel is required to see it all, and doing it in two weeks may be too ambitious for travelers who move at a slower pace. If that’s you, consider adding a few days, or paring back the itinerary. Koyasan is an unusual addition to an essential Japan itinerary, but we found it to be one of the most remarkable of World Heritage sites, and a uniquely Japanese experience that’s well worth the effort to visit. For each destination in our Essential and Extended Itinerary, we’ve listed one or more recommended hotels and restaurants, along with a gay nightlife guide for Osaka. Many of our recommended accommodations are ryokans, or traditional Japanese guest houses. While the ryokan sometimes feels a little anachronistic and theatrical, your Japan experience is not complete without trying at least one, and ideally, one with an onsen (hot springs bath). For many travelers, particularly those who are most accustomed to the creature comforts of luxury hotels, one may be enough. Ryokan rates appear high, but don’t forget to account for the included meals.

ESSENTIAL JAPAN: Tokyo: 3­-5 nights, Fri/Sat inclusive for gay nightlife Kyoto: 2­4 nights Koyasan: 1 night

EXTENDED JAPAN: Osaka: 2­-3 nights, Fri/Sat inclusive for gay nightlife Takayama/Shirakawago:­ 2-3­ nights Nikko: 1 night (or day excursion from Tokyo) Nara: 1-­2 nights (or day excursion from Kyoto)

KYOTO Kyoto offers a wide range of lodging options. Among western chains, you’ll find Hyatt (our first choice for it’s very well con- nected GM), Westin and The Ritz-Calrton represented , properties. If you are traveling during peak season, and find it useful to earn or redeem points for your stay, go for it. Otherwise, we have some local recommendations, along with some great dining recommendations as well.

Hotel Granvia Kyoto http://www.granviakyoto.com/ This modern hotel has the most strategically convenient location in town: atop the Kyoto rail station. With excellent service, multiple dining options (including an elaborate Japanese/Western breakfast buffet, and sophisticated business decor, it’s one of the best options in the city. An attractive pool and small fitness center are available at additional charge, or complimentary to guests staying on the executive floor. The Granvia was the very first hotel in Japan to join the IGLTA, and their concierge staff all wear IGLTA pins to warmly welcome the LGBTQ community.

Hoshinoya http://global.hoshinoresort.com/hoshinoya_kyoto/ This beautiful riverside resort in Kyoto bills itself as the “ultimate Japanese experience,” and we have to concur. Traditional Japanese hospitality blended with contemporary style and amenities make this a spectacular experience on all levels. Hoshi- noya is just west of the city proper and accessed by the resort’s private launch. You’ll need extra time (and money) to properly enjoy it.

Hotel Mume http://www.hotelmume.com/ This 7-­room boutique inn boasts a convenient location, lovely rooms and excellent service, ranking at the top of Trip Advisor ratings for Kyoto.

Citidines Karasuma Gojo http://www.citadines.com/japan/kyoto/karasuma_gojo.html This apartment hotel is modern, affordable, clean and centrallylocated, ­ just one subway stop from the train station. Rooms are equipped with flat-­screen TVs, kitchens, DVD players and high­-speed internet. Kodaiji Saryo http://kyotokhronicles.blogspot.com/2012/10/october21­ 2012.html­ Located in a traditional building set in a walled garden in the shadow of the Daiunin Temple, this lovely restaurant serves a tra- ditional Kyoto Kaiseki meal. You can sit at the counter, facing the chef, or at tables in a tatami room with a view of the garden.

Asuka http://kyotofoodie.com/teishoku-joint-asuka/ It’s often hard to find an inexpensive, authentic local joint with full English menus and home-cooked­ food. This Lonely Plan- et find is just that. An inexpensive Izakaya (Japanese pub) just down the street from the Westin. The tatami seating is a little cramped, but the beer is cold, the food is tasty and the service is friendly. No credit cards.

Okami http://tabelog.com/kyoto/A2603/A260301/26000599/dtlphotolst/P344936/?ityp=1&fb_source=message One of the best Japanese meals we’ve ever had was at Okami. It’s a set meal, and it’s pricey (about $150 pp), but the chef’s a genius, developing sophisticated and modern flavors. Unlike modern food from other ‘innovators’ like Nobu or Morimoto who add western ingredients, the ingredients here are strictly Japanese ingredients. Have your concierge or a Japanese-speaking­ friend make reservations for you.

Cafe Frosch http://www.cafe-frosch.com­ / If you’ve overdosed on umami, and need a non-Japanese­ fix, the global cafe menu at Cafe Frosch will satisfy, with homemade whole ­grain breads and bagels, western baked goods and a rotating menu of international cuisines. The owners speak English and German, provide free wifi and occasionally host concerts and art exhibits.

OSAKA Osaka’s high-­end hotels offer an opportunity to experience Japanese luxury at prices significantly below those of Tokyo, and at all price points, we have conveniently located recommendations.

Our favorite dining experience in Osaka illustrates why we love Japan so much. Nejibana (066479­ ­3350) was the only restau- rant serving lunch in a tower complex we ducked into to escape the rain on a Sunday afternoon. They didn’t have an English menu. The chef and waitress spoke very little English; just enough to tell us that they didn’t serve Okonomiyaki (the local dish we wanted to try), but pointed us across the complex to a restaurant that did. After discovering that restaurant closed, we turned around to find the chef had followed us (he found out they were closed when he called to let them know we were com- ing), and offered to make us Okonomiyaki anyway. He made two versions — a second after sending the waitress over to the closed restaurant to get more appropriate ingredients. Sake on the house when they found out we were from New York, smiles all around, more food than we could eat and the smallest lunch bill of our stay. Our takeaway (in addition to the leftovers): Don’t let the language barrier prevent you from experiencing simple, local restaurants.

The St. Regis Osaka http://www.starwoodhotels.com/stregis/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=3198 This recently built luxury hotel offers St. Regis’ legendary butler service at a price point significantly lower than most St. Regis prop- erties. It is centrally located, and sits atop a subway station for easy access to the JR rail station and all of Osaka’s highlights.

Osaka Tokyu Hotel http://www.tokyuhotelsjapan.com/en/TI/TI_OSAKA/index.html This property is walking distance to the gay nightlife, and just a 10-minute­ walk from the JR station. Although the rooms are quite small, they are clean, comfortable and well-appointed, with wired internet access.

The X­Wave Hotel http://www.agoda.com/asia/japan/osaka/x_wave_umeda_hotel.html This is the most upscale option in the heart of the gay nightlife district. Rooms offer modern baths, wireless internet and small refrigerators.

The Cross Hotel http://www.crosshotel.com/eng_osaka/index.html This modern hotel is centrally ­located, offering great value on stylish, modern, well-appointed­ rooms. Not quite boutique, but definitely urban sophisticated.

The Swissotel Nankai Osaka http://www.swissotel.com/hotels/nankai-osaka/­ This deluxe hotel is in the heart of Namba, Osaka’s busiest shopping, dining and entertainment district. It sits right above the Nankai railway station, offering the most convenient direct connection to Kansai Airport, and the rail departure for Koyasan. Matsusakagyu Yakiniku M http://matsusaka-projects.com/english/index.php­ With four locations in Osaka, this temple of beef is the perfect place to discover the deliciousness of Matsusaka beef — from cattle whose relaxed upbringing (including regular beer drinking and massaging) results in the tastiest of marbling. The menu illustrates the different cuts of meats you can choose from, and also includes entrails for the more adventurous to grill and eat the traditional way: with soy sauce and wasabi.

Fujiya 1935 http://fujiya1935.com/about-en.html­ The Spanish-­trained 4th generation chef at this family restaurant has earned a third Michelin star for his Japanese take on molecular modern cuisine. Advance reservations are essential, and available on Opentable.com.

Yamamoto http://www.kuidaore-osaka.com/en/taste/b/negiyaki_at_yamamoto.html­ This local favorite in the really seedy neighborhood of Juso originated a dish called negiyaki, an adapted version of the local dish okonomiyaki. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Okonomiyaki This pancake base with lots of scallions is thin, and grilled, not fried. Try it with the beef tendon topping.

Koryu http://www.koryu.net/index.php This intimate Michelin three-­star restaurant serves delicious Japanese cuisine in a set nine-course­ meal for about $150 per person. The menu is modern, yet firmly rooted in Japanese tradition, and while the staff speaks limited English, they are super friendly and work hard to explain what you’re eating.

Explosion Club http://www.travelgayasia.com/venue/explosion/ This is Osaka’s big gay club, easy to find, friendly to foreigners and generally a lot of fun. You will pay a cover charge here (despite information to the contrary on TravelGayAsia), but it includes a couple of drinks, so just think of it as a drink minimum and it’s not unreasonable.

Physique Pride Osaka http://www.travelgayasia.com/venue/g-physique-osaka/ This friendly bar is in the same building as Explosion, but has no cover charge. Pull up a seat and chat with the locals and the cute bartenders.

Bar Bacchus http://www.travelgayasia.com/venue/bar-bacchus/ Friendly and small, with no cover charge, Bar Bacchus should definitely be on your bar-hopping itinerary. It’s just a few blocks from Explosion.

Hokuoujan http://www.hokuoukan.jp/english.html This is Osaka’s gay sauna, most popular on weekends in the early evening (7-9­ p.m.). They have all the usual bath house fea- tures, plus private rooms on the top floor that accommodate overnight stays — a decent option for budget accommodations. Regular admission is 2200¥, with discounts of varying degrees for guys under 40, and an additional 400¥ fee for a private overnight room.

NIKKO Although Nikko is easily seen in a day trip from Tokyo, we recommend making a night of it, and experiencing a traditional ryokan onsen (hot springs spa) stay at the Hotel Nanaeyae. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g298182-d1114394- Reviews-Hotel_Nanaeyae-Nikko_Tochigi_Prefecture_Kanto.html Nanaeyae is not in Nikko proper, but in the nearby town of Kinugawa Onsen, with natural hot springs and a beautiful riverside location. Take an early train from Tokyo to Nikko, and leave your luggage in a locker at the train station. Spend half a day touring Nikko, and then retrieve your luggage and take the local train to Kinugawa Onsen in the mid-afternoon.­ The hotel is just a five­-minute walk from the train station, but have the infor- mation desk at the train station alert them to your arrival time, and they will come meet you at the station. Nanaeyae has an English instruction book, and staff who speak it just enough to facilitate your stay, but not enough to let you forget that you’re in a very foreign land. They’ll serve you tea on arrival and you’ll have enough time for a full onsen experience before dinner. The onsen is open again in the morning, for another bath before your departure back to Nikko and a connecting train to your next destination. NARA Most hotels in Nara are either close to the train station (newer) or close to the park (more historic), and it’s about a 20­minute walk between the two. We suggest you stay near the park, though with bike rentals available, downtown is super convenient on a nice day.

Kikusuiro http://www.kikusuiro.com/ A stay at this 122-year-­old guest house at the edge of Nara Park is truly a step back in time. It holds as fast to tradition as a top guest house can, almost begrudgingly adding the must-have­ modernity of each age, without ever actually renovating. The result is trippy: period decor and amenities from every generation — from antiques and scrolls, through rotary-dial­ phones, electric shavers and flat ­screen TVs. Mr. Itoh, the manager, is also of another time, faxing handwritten room confirmations with a grace not seen since the golden age of travel. It’s not often one can spend the night in a registered Cultural Asset and total time warp, and we highly recommend you do, even if it means doing without internet — or maybe because it means doing without internet.

Hotel Nara http://www.narahotel.co.jp/en/ The 104-year-­old hotel across the pond from Kikusuiro offers a more conventional western, modern large hotel experience in a historic building with a modern wing addition from 1984. The result feels like a luxury package tour kind of place, at significant- ly lower rates than Kikusuiro, and with in-­room internet.

TAKAYAMA We saw equally nice traditional ryokans and modern hotels, all of which had onsens fed by a natural spring with low radiogen- ic, sodium ­chloride spring water (alkalescent hypotonic low temperature­ spring). This particularly water is recommended for high ­blood pressure, chronic skin and gynecological diseases, but mostly just delightfully relaxing. All of our recommendations are within walking distance to the train station and to the markets and major sites of Takayama.

Tanabe ­Ryokan http://www.tanabe-ryokan.jp/english/ You’ll be charmed by the excellent english and extraordinary graciousness of owner Akiko Tanabe at this charming Ryokan in the center of Takayama. Be sure to enjoy the Kaiseki dinner here at least one night of your stay, and do not go to bed without trying the onsen.

Oyado Koto no yume http://www.kotoyume.com/english/ Just three short blocks from the train station, Oyado Koto no yume offers a lovely, updated ryokan experience, with wifi in the lobby, electric coffee makers in the rooms and a decent onsen with a small outdoor bath in addition to the larger indoor one. A very nice dinner is served in a communal dining room.

The Spa Hotel Alpina http://www.spa-hotel-alpina.com/english/ Just three minutes from the train station by foot, the hotel features small but modern rooms, with wired internet in the room, and a rooftop onsen with stunning views of the city (that can sometimes be quite busy). Bike rentals and a self-service­ fully­ automated laundromat are nearby.

SHIRAKAWA­GO To reach Shirakawago,­ take the Nori Bus from Takayama’s bus station. You will need to reserve a seat depending on the time of the day you choose to travel, but this can be done easily in person the day before your trip (or even on the same day). Check the Nori Bus website for schedules and details (http://www.nouhibus.co.jp/english/). For reservations to stay overnight at one of the farmhouses, visit the the Japan Guesthouses website (http://www.japaneseguesthouses.com).

7. THE RYOKAN EXPERIENCE 7. THE RYOKAN EXPERIENCE

Japan’s traditional inns (ryokans) are more than just an unusual place to sleep: they are a cultural travel experience. To fully enjoy them, you’ll need to understand and adhere to their customs, derived from an ancient tradition of hospitality to weary travelers.

ARRIVAL If you arrive early in the day, you will be able to store your luggage, but you will not have access to your room until mid-­ -afternoon. Check-­in is a ritual, involving a welcome to your room, and a simple tea service. Changing footwear is often the most complicated part of staying in a ryokan: your street shoes will remain at the entrance, and you will be given a pair of slip- pers to wear inside the building, and these you will remove before stepping on the tatami mats of your bedroom. A separate pair of slippers will be worn in the toilet area.

BATHING Most ryokans have communal baths, and you should allow time for a bath and relaxation between check-in­ and dinner, al- though baths will often be available after dinner as well. Bathing has many rituals, of which the only really important one is that all washing happens outside the bath. You must be washed, rinsed and naked before entering a communal bath. Washcloths and various grooming implements will be provided. The communal soaking tubs are often very hot; sliding in and staying very still will help you acclimate to the temperature.

DINNER Dinner will be at a set time, during a narrow window. It may be served in your room, or in a private or communal dining room. No matter where it is served, you will be welcome and expected to dine in your yukata (cotton robe). You will likely be present- ed with a range of foods, and varying levels of explanation, depending on the language skills at the ryokan. Try everything, eat what you like and leave the rest. At some ryokans meals are optional, at most they are included in your rate.

SLEEPING During dinner, your room will be converted from a daytime sitting area to a sleeping area, with futon mattresses on the tatami floor and various layers of bedcoverings, depending on the weather. Tea, water and usually a cookie or sweet of some kind will be left for your convenience and comfort. Some ryokans offer rooms with western-style­ beds.

BREAKFAST In the morning, you may be given an option of Japanese or western-style­ breakfasts, and again, it may be served in your room or a communal dining area. If your travel plans require an early morning departure, most ryokans will prepare you a bagged breakfast to go.

Find additional ryokan information and description at: Japan National Tourism Organization http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/ indepth/exotic/onsen_ryokan/p4_ryokan.html JapaneseGuesthouses.com http://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/index.htm JapanGuide.com http://www.japanguide.com/e/e2029.html­ 8. YOUR LOST IN TRANSLATION EXPERIENCE 8. YOUR LOST IN TRANSLATION EXPERIENCE

The Telegraph calls it “the ultimate hotel movie” on their list of “The Top Ten Hotels in Film,” http://www.telegraph.co.uk/ travel/artsandculture/5084144/Thetop­ ten­ hotels­ in­ films.html?image=2­ and indeed, The Park Hyatt Tokyo’s performance in Sofia Coppola’s Lost In Translation is unforgettable. And while it’s also one of the most expensive hotels in Tokyo, you don’t have to spend the night here to have your very own Lost in Translation experience.

Ours starts with a visit to the exclusive Club on The Park Spa. Normally reserved for the exclusive use of hotel guests and club members, their 28,000¥ Siesta Package includes a one-­hour spa treatment and use of the spa’s facilities (not including the rooftop pool, sadly) for an hour before and after your treatment, canapés and cocktails at the hotel’s iconic New York Bar, where so much of the movie takes place. You can substitute breakfast or afternoon tea for cocktails in the package, and you can upgrade to a 90-minute spa treatment for 33,000¥. Both prices include tax and service charges.

Follow sunset cocktails with dinner at Kozue, where chef Ooe presents a modern Kaiseki meal on his stunning collection of 4,000 pieces of dinnerware. Here, each course is presented on a large platter, enhancing the presentation, but also making the meal a communal event where diners interact rather than eating from single portion plates as is typical in Kaiseki. Pair your meal with Kozue’s unusual and diverse range of sakis, served in bespoke flutes that are designed to accentuate the character- istics of each varietal.

9. TEN THINGS TO KNOW IF YOU WANT TO GO TO JAPAN 9. TEN THINGS TO KNOW IF YOU WANT TO GO TO JAPAN

We love Japan. In the developed world, it is unique in the degree to which it has preserved its distinct culture. For visitors, it can be thrilling to experience and complicated to navigate. Here are 10 things to know that will have you navigating Japan like an expert.

1. Mind your bathing manners http://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/onsen/how-to-take-a-japanese-bath/ Japanese bathing rituals are intricate. At a public bath or hot springs, you’re expected to wash and rinse thoroughly before getting into the bath naked to soak. If you have tattoos, you will not be allowed in the most traditional baths, though less of an issue at baths catering to foreigners.

2. Hyperdia.com http://hyperdia.com Japan’s transportation network is extensive, with many different operators. Hyperdia builds point-to-point itineraries for all of them, including connections between trains, subways, busses — even cable cars. Note that train fares may require payment of a “seat fee” (seat reservation fee), in addition to the base fare.

3. Go Down to Eat http://www.ladyironchef.com/2015/06/japanese-food-halls/ The basement levels of department stores and train stations have great food halls — carrying everything from raw ingredients to prepared meals and bento boxes (perfect for your train ride), to every kind of food gift you can imagine, including delicious sweets and those US$100 melons you’ve heard about.

4. Slip-on Shoes http://amzn.to/1Y9n4L5 You’ll be taking your shoes off and on a lot in Japan – especially if you’re going to explore the temples in Kyoto. You’ll feel super smart in shoes you can slip in and out of easily.

5. Japanese Etiquette Book http://amzn.to/1TVU5FD While Japan is increasingly informal, it remains more traditional than most other developed nations, especially at its historic sites and accommodations. You’ll never get the etiquette right 100% of the time, but making an effort is greatly appreciated.

6. Need Cash? 7-Eleven http://www.sej.co.jp/in/en.html Most Japanese ATMs are not programmed for international cards. But Seven Bank has ATMs at every 7-Eleven which are. So get cash before leaving the airport, and use the Seven Bank ATM locator http://pkg.navitime.co.jp/sevenbank/?lang=en to find a 24/7 international ATM near you.

7. IC Payment Cards http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2359_003.html Japan’s electronic payment cards are the easiest way to pay for short subway and train rides, particularly when your travel involves multiple systems — a trip across Tokyo could easily use three different systems. The IC cards let you swipe in and out of all of them, so you don’t need to stop to buy another ticket when you change trains.

8. Japan Rail Pass http://www.japanrailpass.net/en/ Visitors to Japan can purchase discounted rail passes that provide unlimited train transportation for 7, 14 or 21 days, valid on most lines and trains. It’s a great deal if you’re visiting many cities, or taking at least one round-trip on the bullet train. You can compare point-to-point fares on Hyperdia to check the value.

9. Luggage Delivery https://www.japan-experience.com/to-know/visiting-japan/carrying-luggage Overnight luggage delivery to your next destination is very popular and inexpensive in Japan. This is particularly recommended when traveling by train — the crowded stations and tight connections are not very luggage-friendly.

10. is an Ancient Symbol https://www.tofugu.com/japan/japanese-swastika/ The Japanese swastika predates the Nazi party by centuries and has nothing to do with them or anti-Semitism. (It also points in the opposite direction.) It’s the map symbol for “temple.” That’s a relief, eh?

Creative Director + Publisher Billy Kolber

Editor in Chief Ed Salvato

Associate Editor Kenny Porpora

Contributing Editor Marcio Chapina

Design Consultant David Gray

CONTRIBUTORS TO THIS GUIDE Donovan Kaneshiro • John Clifford • Jon Makhmaltchi Suzanne Ketchian • Diane Giorgetti • Michael Palter Marcus Hibdon • Linea Gagliano • Jeff Miller

SPECIAL THANKS Pam Zicca • Casota Bogdan • Barbara Kolber Matthew Cokeley • Mike Haney • Amie Barder Nori Akashi • Ryohei Suenaga • Doug Foote Shintaro Koizumi • Bruce Stuart PHOTO CREDITS Unless otherwise noted, all photos are used under a Creative Commons (cc) license. No sponsorship, endorsement or connection to the photographers or their subjects is implied by their use. We are super grateful for the opportunity to share their beautiful imagery with you.

Flickr.com/specialoperations http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnji/7331703886 Billy Kolber http://www.manaboutworld.com/portfolio-post/billy-kolber/ Tomoyuki Kawashima http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomo908us/4381316624/ flickr.com/tsuna72https://www.flickr.com/photos/tsuna72/8449376155 Michale Matti https-//www.flickr.com/photos/michaelmattiphotography/ Billy Kolber http://www.manaboutworld.com/portfolio-post/billy-kolber/ flickr.com/pouchinhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/pouchin/6621325309 Marco Capitanio https://www.flickr.com/photos/marco_capitanio/8821736726 Norio Nakayama http://www.flickr.com/photos/norio-nakayama/8522444929/ Koho Shoda http://www.artelino.com/articles/koho-shoda.asp

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