X-Ray Mag Issue #53 | March 2013

Sumptuous Diving

MaldivesText and photos by Scott Johnson

19 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Maldives

A dhoni, Maldivian style sailboat, at Four Seasons Resort (above); Massive school of bluestripe snapper (right) at Banana Reef, North Male′ Atoll; Friendly honeycomb moray eel (below) being cleaned by bluestreak cleaner wrasse. PREVIOUS PAGE: Resident manta rays circling at Lankan, North Male′ Atoll

I eagerly plunge into the series of shots through the viewfinder even begin to blow into the SMB, I hear refreshing, blue water at Miyaru of my Aquatica AD7000 housing, paus- someone clear his throat behind me. ing only long enough to reposition the I turn to see two uniformed crewman Faru off South Male′ Atoll and two Sea and Sea YS-250 strobes. The viz standing on the bow of a yacht and a begin to drift with the rest of is limited due to the sand being stirred couple sipping champagne on a plat- my group as the stiff current by the outgoing tide, but I persevere in form above them. pushes us along. Within min- hopes that at least one of the images will be decent. utes, I spot one of my favor- My dwindling remaining bottom time ite marine animals extended forces me to leave the friendly moray from a hole near the bottom. I and gradually work my way to fresh air. quickly exhale and spread my When I surface, I spot the dhoni (the infamous Maldivian style of boat that arms wide to simultaneously epitomizes “a slow boat to China”) descend and slowdown so as highlighted in the glow of the setting not to overshoot the area. sun, but far away. Apparently, the rest of the group rode the current through- The surrounding coral outcroppings out the dive while I surfaced close to offer protection from the current and where I entered. allow me to focus on the impressive As I reach for my SMB (surface marker honeycomb moray (Gymnothorax fav- buoy), a speed boat appears out of agineus) that seems as curious of me as nowhere and passes much too close I am of it. The beautiful eel sways back for comfort. The dwindling ambient and forth as if to some siren’s melody light means I need to inflate the SMB that only it can hear. I compose a sooner rather than later. Before I can

20 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Maldives

One of the beaches (above) and swimming pools (left) at the Four Seasons Resort

The crewman on the right says, and are situated slightly above the “We saw that idiot race his boat dan- equator in the Indian Ocean. An atoll, gerously close to your position and which is derived from the Maldivian thought you could use our assistance. word atholhu, is the product of fring- Would you like us to take you to your ing reefs that originated from the sides vessel?” Stunned, I simply nodded my of a volcano and then continued to head in agreement. The crew helps grow towards the surface as the vol- me aboard, and the couple insists cano receded back to the ocean I be given a glass of champagne. floor. The resulting ring-shaped barrier Thus, I am transported “James Bond” reefs have a foundation of lava and style back to the Maldives Aggressor’s dead coral, protect a central lagoon dhoni, holding a glass of bubbly and and are separated from each other chatting with my rescuers. My dive by channels that lead for the lagoon mates roar with laughter when they to the sea. Since atolls are built from realize it is me and yell in unison, “It colonizing corals, they are limited to figures!” This is the perfect ending to tropical and sub-tropical oceans that another glorious day of diving in the possess the warm water and plenti- Maldives. ful nutrients needed to support such creatures. The Flower of the Indies The Maldivian atolls, which are part The Republic of Maldives is comprised of the submarine mountain range of 26 geographical atolls that col- called the Laccadives-Chagos Ridge, lectively resemble an elongated, jew- are intermittently spread over 56,000 eled necklace running north/south sq mi (90,000 sq km). They protect The Maldives Aggressor liveaboard

21 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Maldives

Oriental sweetlips at dusk off South Ari Atoll; Private villa beach, Four Seasons Resort (top left)

almost 2,000 islands, only 200 of which aways that are beyond mere opulence. are inhabited. Ninety-nine percent of the Pampered cycles of dive-eat-and-relax Maldives is ocean and only 186 sq mi (300 allow you to indulge personal passions, sq km) of the country is above the water’s while making it easy to forget the hectic surface! pace of modern life. Marco Polo called the Maldives the My own Rich and Shameless episode “Flower of the Indies”. Polo obviously had features a stay at the luxurious Four Seasons fine taste. I have visited many countries Resort at Landaa Giraavaru and charters and islands throughout my career, but on the Four Season’s Maldives Explorer I have never flown over a more beauti- and Maldives Aggressor. This combina- ful island nation. The low flying sea planes tion of land-based resort and liveaboard provide the perfect vantage points for (safari boat in the Maldives) charter is the soaking in the brilliant white sand beaches, ideal way to both explore and soak in the statuesque palm trees and exquisite shades enchanting surroundings. Impeccable ser- of blue, from the dark blue sea to the tur- vice is the norm. To be candid, the unre- quoise waters outlining the atolls. The scen- lenting effort to appease and even antici- ery is absolutely breathtaking. pate my every need throughout my stay A dive holiday here is like staging your has left me a bit paranoid. I keep waiting own version of Lifestyles of the Rich and for a hand to materialize whenever I need Famous. The natural settings and idyl- to wipe my nose or other less visible body lic private island resorts offer lavish get- parts. Maldivian anemonefish in a magnificent anemone Curious hawksbill sea turtle at Muthaafush Thila, Baa Atoll at Maaya Thila, North Ari Atoll

22 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Maldives

Lyretail anthias and hard coral cover at Radhdhiggaa Thila, South Ari Atoll

The currents rule, the location, direction, pace, a circular reef within a channel the divers drool difficulty and even the excite- that extends to the surface. Its The Maldivian underwater world ment of the dives. outer edge is exposed to the is even more rich and extrava- The diving is defined by open ocean and often a prime gant than any terrestrial man- a reef’s formation, size and location for spotting pelagics made setting. More than 1,000 depth as a kandu, faru, thila and large schools. Thilas are species of fish and 200 species or giri. A kandu is a channel oblong or circular reefs within an of coral are present. Currents that connects a lagoon to the atoll with tops 6m to 12m (20ft carry you along healthy reefs open ocean. These dives often to 40ft) below the surface. Their adorned in hard and soft cor- produce strong currents and steep walls are pocked with als. Brightly colored anthias dart should only be attempted on an overhangs that are lined with among coral heads, while large incoming tide that carries divers soft corals and filled with fish. A schools of bluestripe snapper into the safety of the lagoon. giri is like a thila, but smaller and and neon fusiliers move in unison The incoming tide also provides reaching within 1m to 3m (5ft to as they cling to or sweep over much better visibility that than 10ft) of the surface. Yellowmargin moray eel at the reef. Yes, currents dictate the outgoing variety. A faru is Miyaru Gaa, South Ari Atoll South corals, Back Faru, North Male′ Atoll; Longnose hawkfish, Vaadhoo Thila, Raa Atoll (top)

23 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Maldives

About the only way ments. I watch 17 large mantas sweep to spend a week over the divers’ heads and take turns diving here and miss being cleaned. The rays’ movements them is to scuba in seem to be perfectly choreographed a pool or keep your as they dance and yet avoid one eyes closed. Lankan another in such a compressed space. or Manta Point off The other divers, like me, are in awe North Male′ Atoll at the performance. The mantas were offers one of the there when we arrived and remain many shallow-water even as we watch them during our Manta Ray cleaning respective safety stops. stations scattered The color, variety and action on even throughout the these “simple” dives can be a bit over- archipelago. whelming if you take the time to soak Prior to the dive, in the entirety of your surroundings. For Marine marvels guests are instructed to find a spot example, I made three consecutive Manta rays (Manta alfredi) are the sig- just below the top of the small reef so dives on another manta ray cleaning nature marine animal in the Maldives. as not to obstruct the manta’s move- station located in Hanifaru Bay, Baa THIS PAGE: Resident manta rays are commonly sighted throughout the Maldives archepelago

24 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Maldives

Atoll. On the first dive, I used a on this tiny site to even begin to Maldives: residents (Manta alfredi) Tokina 10-17mm fisheye lens to appreciate some of the wonderful and pelagics (Manta birostris). photograph four majestic rays that treasures it had to offer. Hanifaru is about the size of a repeatedly circled the site as they I spend a week at Hanifaru football field, but Guy faithfully were cleaned by industrious blues- Bay working from Guy Stevens’ monitors it during the Hulhangu treak cleaner wrasse (Labroides research dhoni. Guy, a marine (the southwest monsoon or wet dimidiatus). The second tank and biologist whose work is supported season) for a much different kind a 60mm lens allowed me to frame by the Save Our Seas Foundation of spectacle. When the condi- an exquisite, white leaf scorpi- and the Four Seasons Resort at tions are right, a veritable buffet onfish (Taenianotus triacanthus) as Landaa Giraavaru, is the founder of plankton flows into the bay and it yawned and seemed to proudly of both Manta Trust and the gets trapped. This causes some pose. The third dive and a super Maldivian Manta Ray Project. His unknown dinner bell to ring and macro set-up yielded shots of a passion for the mantas, Hanifaru prompts hungry mantas to arrive in male coral cardinalfish (Apogon and marine conservation is clearly mass. properupta) incubating eggs in evident. Guy endures long days Guy has frequently spotted as its mouth. The manta rays, leaf with his research assistants identify- many as 200 mantas and multiple scorpionfish and coral cardinalfish ing and tracking the elegant rays, whale sharks (Rhincodon typus) were often within 20ft (6m) of one as well as studying their behavior with their maws agape, all feeding another at intervals throughout from the surface and underwater. on the plankton at the same time. CLOCKWISE: White leaf scorpionfish, Hanifaru Bay, Baa Atoll; Diver with whale the day. I needed three dives He has concluded there are two I gave Guy a you-gotta-be-kid- shark, Sunset Reef, South Ari Atoll; Manta ray being cleaned, Lankan, North and three alternate perspectives different species of mantas in the ding-me look, as I simply could not Mouthbreeding male coral cardinalfish, Male′ Atoll; Resting leopard shark, dusk dive, Maamiggili Out, South Ari Atoll Hanifaru Bay, Baa Atoll

25 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Maldives

White collar butterflyfish (left), Banana Reef, North Male′ Atoll; Slipper lobster (above), South Ari Atoll; Idyllic spa bungalows at the Four Seasons Resort (right), Landaa Giraavaru

Hanifaru Bay Plankton Party may ultimately lead to its demise if protective legislation is not implemented and vigilantly enforced. Snorkelers and divers now regularly out- number the marine animals and are a threat to one another, as well as the hun- gry creatures. I personally witnessed divers being dumped on other divers and snorkel- ers by dive operators that were either neg-

fathom how any water into jumping and splashing. could be left in the bay And, “waiting” generally with so many large ani- means the guests swim as mals packed inside it. I fast as they can in all direc- eventually concluded tions. he was not pulling my The plankton-feeding fin as I, too, spotted sharks do not seem to numerous mantas dur- be moving fast when ing my dives there. observed from the boat. Besides, he had video The “in water” experience and pictures to prove is altogether different. The it. Only South Africa’s sharks blow by you with the Sardine Run can rival bare minimum of effort, this awe-inspiring feed- so each snorkeling oppor- ing aggregation. tunity is fairly short. Even South Ari is usually so, the cumulative effect Banded coral your best chance to swim with whale sharks in the of repeated encounters shrimp with archipelago. Juveniles are regularly spotted feed- results in an exuberant, eggs at Dhigali ing near the surface here and seem to be rather grateful and tired group. Reef, Raa Atoll tolerant to us humans. The Aggressor whale shark procedure is pretty simple. The captain positions Saving paradise the dhoni well ahead of and parallel to a shark. Paradise is never won or Guests are then told to quietly slip into the water maintained without sac- and wait for the animal to appear. rifice. The discovery and Of course, “quietly slipping” usually translates subsequent fame of the Hard corals on Sunset Reef, South Ari Atoll

26 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Maldives

Male′, the bustling capital city of the Maldives, offers many sightseeing options and is just a ten-minute boat ride from the airport

ligent or poorly trained. Boats sped cent of the coral above 45ft (15m), sign a resolution entitled, SOS From through the human mass, and I was it launched a coral propagation The Frontline, calling for global cuts in amazed no one was seriously injured. project with Reefscapers that has carbon emissions. The document was I left Hanifaru wondering if it would transplanted almost 70,000 coral frag- presented at the Climate Summit in take the death a tourist to make ments since 2005, with a survival rate Copenhagen, Denmark, two months the government do the right thing. of 80 percent. later. Fortunately, I was wrong. The primary goal of this project is to The President has committed to Guy, and the rest of the Baa Atoll develop heartier strains of coral that making the Maldives the first carbon community, have finally worked out are more resistant to prolonged water neutral county by 2020 and is set- a management plan for Hanifaru temperature spikes. Healthy reefs play ting aside a portion of the country’s Bay with members of the Ministry vital roles in sustaining the marine life, annual tourist income to potentially of Housing and Environment. The fueling the growing tourism industry purchase land in India, Sri Lanka or Management Plan for Hanifaru and protecting the Maldivian flat Australia for his people should global Marine Protected Area will be part islands from high waves that could warming drown paradise. of the Atoll Ecosystem Conservation decimate the nation. Project and implemented over two No nation is more threatened by Go batty years. It will eliminate scuba diving in global warming than the Maldives. There is little to do on land in the the bay after 2011, limit the number of It is the lowest country on Earth with Maldives, except relax, soak up snorkelers and provide funding for the an average ground level of only 5ft some rays, get to know the friendly ongoing conservation efforts. (1.5m). Its highest point is only 8ft locals and/or try other water activi- The Marine Discovery Center at (2.4m). Scientists have predicted rising ties, such as surfing. My favorite past- the Four Seasons Resort at Landaa ocean levels may make the Maldives time is watching the large fruit bats Giraavaru is at the forefront of numer- uninhabitable by 2100. The nation’s (Pteropus giganteus ariel), which are ous critical conservation efforts. former President, Mohamed Nasheed, active around the clock. Most fruit In response to a 1998 mass coral held the world’s first underwater cabi- bats I have encountered elsewhere bleaching event that killed 90 per- net meeting on 17 October 2009 to stay hidden during the day, but the Feeding Indian flying fox fruit bat Plumeria adorn the Four Seasons Resort grounds

27 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Maldives

Marching yellow starfish on Miyaru Faru, South Ari Atoll (above); Swarming glassy sweepers at Kudhadoo Beyru, South Ari Atoll (right); Dhonis anchored off South Ari Atoll (bottom)

Maldivian bats do not have to worry about predators and thus do not fear the sunshine. The best time to photograph them is in the evening when they are feeding on fruit. I look for trees with ripe, low-hanging fruit and more often than not, one of bats will arrive to feast while I am flash away. Male′—the Maldives’ bustling capital— is a ten-minute boat ride from the Malé International airport, which, like the many luxurious resorts, is located on its own island. Male′ is packed with people and offers sightseeing options, such as the National Museum and the Grand Friday Mosque. It is worth a short visit at the end of your holiday, as you wait for your flight the chance to adjust to the new time Seasons Resort Maldives at Landaa home, but the experience will likely leave zone and take the opportunity to stop Giraavaru (www.fourseasons.com/mal- you wanting to return to the solitude of a and smell the “Flower of the Indies”. diveslg), Four Seasons Resort Maldives secluded atoll. The Four Seasons Resort at Landaa at Kuda Huraa (www.fourseasons.com/ Giraavaru and the Maldives Aggressor maldiveskh), Four Seasons Maldives Hungering for déjà vu will allow you to indulge yourself in the Explorer (www.fourseasons.com/mal- From sea planes to dhoni rides to livea- “Luxury Isles”. The challenge is figuring divesfse) and Maldives Aggressor (www. boards, you can only explore a fraction out how to return as often as possible. aggressor.com). of the Maldives’ expansive territory dur- Remember, paradise is indeed addic- ing a single visit. The Maldives is definitely tive. ■ Scott Johnson is a widely published U.S.- a multi-trip destination. I highly recom- based photojournalist who specializes in mend splitting your time between a live- The author would like to thank Guy marine, wildlife and travel subjects. See: aboard and a resort to give your body Stevens (www.mantatrust.org), Four Seascapesimages.com

28 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO nasa

RIGHT: Global map with location of the Maldives. formally for dinner at the higher BELOW: Location of Male′ end resorts. Chests and thighs on map of the Maldives must be covered in Male′ and on fact file inhabited, non-resort islands. Maldives Alcohol The Maldives is defi- nitely not a BYOB destination. You are not allowed to bring alcoholic Landaa drinks into the Maldives. Even if Giraavaru you purchase duty free alcoholic Baa Atoll items in the Singapore or Dubai North Male′ sources: U.S. cia world fact book, Atoll airports en route to the Male′ visit-fsm.org North International Airport, these items MALE′ Ari Atoll will be confiscated upon arrival as The Maldives is located spurred the president and his gov- country is threat- South Male′ bags are x-rayed. Only businesses History South Atoll in the heart of the Indian Ocean ernment to initiate democratic ened by sea Ari Atoll specializing in tourism are allowed shipping lanes. This has been both reforms. These included a politi- level rise due to to import, store and/or serve alco- a blessing and curse in terms of cal system that was more repre- its low elevation. Arabian holic beverages, including wine. the outside world’s impact on sentative of the people as well Government: its culture and way of life. The as expanded political freedoms. republic. Sea Electricity 220/240 volt AC at 50 Maldivian history prior to AD 1153 It was slow going, though, and Capital: Male′ Laccadive eleva- of the GDP cycles; no standard socket types. is a mixture of conjecture and the realization of some of the Sea tion. and 70% of the legend due to the lack of writ- promised reforms was sluggish. Geography Water for- eign exchange. Fishing Driving Forget it! The Maldives ten materials and artifacts. The Despite this, political parties were Located in tempera- is a distant second and the gap only has 55mi (88km) of roads and earliest inhabitants likely migrated legalized in 2005, and in 2008, a Southern Asia, tures are continues to grow. over 80% of them are the crowd- from India and Sri Lanka. Sailors new constitution was finalized by the Maldives consistently ed streets of Male′. and traders braved the treach- a constituent assembly. It was are a group between Population 394,451 (July 2012 erous Maldivian reefs to collect then ratified by the president in of atolls in the Addu Atoll 26.5-29.5°C est.) Ethnic groups: South Indians, Singapore Gan Getting there fresh water, dried fish, fruit, coir summer. In the fall of the same Indian Ocean (80-85°F) Sinhalese, Arabs. Internet users: Airlines, Malaysian Airlines, British (coconut husk) rope and cowry year, the first-ever presidential just south-south- 86,400 (2009) Religion: Sunni Airways, Emirates Airline and shells. The Maldives existed as a elections were held under a west of India. Coastline: 644km. Environmental issues Global Muslim Qatar Airways offer direct flights sultanate from the 12th century multi-candidate, multi-party sys- The terrain is flat, with white warming and sea level rise threat- from such cities as Singapore, until 1887, when the archipelago tem. The incumbant president sandy beaches. Lowest point: ens the very existence of this Currency The Maldivian Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur, in became a British protectorate. was defeated and Mohamed Indian Ocean 0m. Highest point: country in the future. In addition, Rufiyaa (MVR) is pegged to addition to major hubs in Europe In 1968, it became a republic, Nasheed became the new presi- a point in the Addu Atholhu, yet water supplies are threatened by the U.S. dollar at 12.8. U.S. dol- and India. three years after it claimed inde- dent. He was a political activist unnamed on Viligili 2.4m. Note: the depletion of freshwater aqui- lars and credit cards are widely pendence. For 30 years, President who had in previous years been The country is comprised of 1,190 fers, and there has been bleach- accepted and often preferred. Entry/Visa A free 30-day visa is Gayoom dominated the islands’ put in jail by the former regime. coral islands grouped into 26 ing of the coral reef. Exchange rates: 1EUR=20.74MVR; extended upon arrival. political arena. Via single-party Challenges facing the atolls. There are 200 inhabited 1USD=15.41MVR; 1GBP=24.36MVR; referendums, he was elected new president includ- islands, as well as 80 islands with Economy President Gayoom, 1AUD=16MVR; 1SGD=12.5MVR Decompression chambers to six successive terms. In ed strengthening tourist resorts. who often served like a ruth- Bandos Island Resort 2003, political dem- democracy in the less dictator from 1978 to 2008, Language Maldivian Dhivehi is Bandos Medical Clinic & Hyper- onstrations in country and finding Climate Tropical, greatly influ- is credited with developing one the official language—it is a dia- baric Center, tel: + 960 440 088 the capital solutions to drug abuse enced by the Iruvai (“dry” north- of most successful tourism indus- lect of Sinhala with script derived Kandoludhoo Island Resort city of and poverty. Nasheed east monsoon that typically blows tries in the world. The first resort from Arabic—but English is widely Kandoludhoo Divers Rescue Male′ resigned in 2012, after sev- mid-November to April) and the opened with modest results in spoken in Male′, at the resorts and tel: + 960 773 485 eral weeks of demonstrations Hulhangu (“wet” southwest mon- 1972, but tourism grew expo- by tourism service providers. Kuramathi Resort in the streets following his firing soon in May to October). Air tem- nentially during his 30-year reign. Kuramathi Medical Centre of a top judge. Vice President peratures stay near 86°F (30°C) There are approximately 100 pri- Dress is casual and comfort- Hotline +960 777 3485 . Waheed then took over. In inter- year-round. Natural hazards vate island resorts now. Tourism able. Swimming trunks, bikinis and national climate change discus- include tsunamis and rises in sea has long since passed fishing as other beachwear are common at Web sites sions, Maldivian officials have levels to which the country is vul- the nation’s economic driving resorts and on safari boats. Some Maldives Tourism played a prominent role, as the nerable, as its islands have a low force and now accounts for 30% guests prefer to dress a bit more www.visitmaldives.com Fimbriated moray eel

29 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO CroatiaMurter Island Diving the Adriatic Sea

Drop-off covered with dense beds of red corals (left); View of the little port of Jezera and Murter Island (above); There are caverns and caves, too (right)

For quite a time, I had been wanting to go back to Croatia to see first hand what this young nation with ancient roots had to offer, both below and above the surface. Back in the 1980s, in the days when Prince and Michael Jackson were the dominant figures in popular music, I went there on a camping trip. It was before my diving days, but the pristine archipelago with its brochure-like, clear, turquoise waters was forever, clearly imprinted in my memory. For many years, the brutal civil war, which ravaged the Bal- kans and splintered the Yugoslavian federation, made it if not impossible then at least unwise to go there for a revisit. But finally, about a quarter of a century later, I was back, and this time, I brought lots of diving and camera gear.

Text by Peter Symes. Photos by gage allowances just getting worse makes up the central part of the Andrey Bizyukin and Peter Symes over time, destinations that I could eastern coast of the Adriatic Sea—I possibly drive to rather than fly to was greeted with a landscape that The Romans called the Mediterra- were starting to look more and more had been baked all summer long nean Sea, Mare Nostrum—our sea— attractive by the day. In this case, I by the scorching midday sun. There which signals some degree of prox- ended up flying anyway, but at least were lots of browns and yellows, imity and relative ease of access, at I stayed within the same time zone, colors of the soil and dried under- least if you live in Europe. With all the so no jet lag. brush under the dusty green foliage. hassles at airports these days, the As I, one late summer day, once Villages nestled between orchards long waiting lines, intrusive security again stepped out into Dalmatia— of olive trees covering the rolling hills and still tighter restrictions on lug- the historic region of Croatia that were generally made up of quaint,

30 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Croatia

The promenade in the port of Jezera (above); A school of what we tentatively identify as some species of horse mackerel darting over a reef covered with red coral (left)

white cottages and villas with red, dation offered to tourists were rooms tiled roofs. In the distance, totally con- and small apartments rented by local trasting in colour and texture, I could owners of private villas. see the glittering sea. It was the same So, we ended up with a local family turquoise colour I so clearly remem- who offered us a comfortable pri- bered. vate apartment with a big balcony overlooking the port and the family’s Jezera lovely garden full of fig trees hanging Nautilus dive center is conveniently heavy with fruit. Booked through the located in the picturesque, little fish- very helpful and friendly staff of the ing village of Jezera on the island of Bisage Travel Agency in the center of Murter from where the stunning archi- town, Apartman Irena (www.murter- pelago, including the marine reserve apartmani.net) run by Karlo Klarin and of Kornati National Park, is easily his family, was just a short walk to the reached by a short boat trip. marina and Lucica Beach. Karlo was, The village clearly caters to a lot of fortunately for us, also an official tour tourists during the summer but not in guide and native of Murter Island, with an intrusive way; there are no ma- a wealth of information on the culture, jor hotels or resort complexes, just a history, attractions and activities of the bustling harbour fringed with restau- island and fluent in no less than five rants, boutiques, ice cream stalls, and languages: English, German, Italian, booths selling jewellery and cheap Czech and Croat. souvenirs. There was a small hotel, but The dive center is located right on the most common form of accommo- the harbour front, not in a shop but The omnipresent lush hard corals are one of the attraction for divers and underwater photographers

31 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Croatia

Small, hemispherical hard coral colonies (left) with large corallites of indeterminate species; Great viz (above) along the outer reef of Kornati Island; Typical scenery (top right) at about 25m depth; Aplysina aerophoba—a common species in the Mediterranean (below)

Diving The dive boat was huge and very spacious. It was a fishing trawler of sorts, the size of a small Red Sea liveaboard, albeit not very fancy but with a large upper sun deck with benches and tables like a mini-cruise, 35km, with 140 islands in an area and room for at least a couple of as the vessel wove of sea of about 320 squ km, the dozen people. We steamed out in and out of the Kornati is the densest archipelago towards open sea with a mixed many islets en in the Mediterranean. In 1980, in a building that was probably crowd of divers and some of their route. The blue the 89 southernmost islands, islets a converted warehouse of some families. At one of the tables, a sea was dotted and reefs of the Kornati archi- kind. But no matter, it did the trick. couple of kids were totally ab- with leisure crafts, pelago were declared a national There was ample space for storing sorbed playing with their Game- motorboats and park, Nacionalni Park Kornati, pro- kit in there and a sitting area with boys, while at another table, a sail boats, as we tecting the islands and their ma- wi-fi, so you could enjoy a cup of team of divers were meddling headed out to- rine surroundings. Kornat, which coffee while uploading the day’s with their cameras. There was a wards the Kornati by far is the biggest of the islands harvest of images to Facebook. soothing, relaxed atmosphere. National Park. is connected to the mainland Just getting to the dive sites felt Ranging over by a drawbridge. There are no

32 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Bright red and violet soft gorgonians adorn the Croatian reefs (left). OTHER IMAGES THIS PAGE: At very shallow depths, the reefs are a lot less colourful, but there are always some interesting critters to be found, which can Croatia travel entertain divers undertaking lengthy decompression stops to almost 100m. As we descended, I was struck with the clarity of the water, the viz was excellent. At first, there was not much marine growth to be seen; the rocks were covered only by some short seaweeds, but the good stuff was down deep. We levelled off at 40m and swam along what was almost a vertical drop-off. The wall was speckled with all sorts of small gorgonia, most of which I deemed to be red coral, Coral- lium rubrum. These corals are quite intolerant to sedimentation, so they grow on the rocky sea bottom in the depths, or on walls, or in dark cav- erns or crevices. The corals take the shape of small leafless bushes and grow up to a meter in height. They

permanent settlements on the islands but a few simple houses that most likely serve as cabins for leisure. We moored along the outer edge of Kornati, facing the open sea, at a location called Panitula, which I understood was a popular dive site. The coastline was steep and rug- ged, but the seas were calm. I was teaming up with my old friend and fellow X-RAY MAG editor Andrey Bizyukin and his buddy Alexander who was in the Russian special forces. Between two small islands, there was a shallow channel no deeper than 5-10m, which was a perfect staging area before going over the ledge that descended straight down

33 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO THIS PAGE: Many caves and caverns in the area provide yet another underwater activity Croatia travel insulation for a protracted stay at this depth—not that the gas reserves carried in a commonplace single tank and decompression limits permited for much more time anyway. But the lesson was learned. Before going on the trip, Andrey had advised me to bring my drysuit, too. I must admit, I did not quite be- lieve it was necessary. After all, we were going to the Med in late summer. Surely, it had to be warm—and it was, only not at depth. Looking around, I noticed that everybody else in the group was not only wearing a drysuit but was geared up in a technical fashion as well. Fortunately, I did heed Andrey’s advice and brought a drysuit, too. Hav-

ing not worn it on this day, however, I was get- ting chilled, so I began to ascend. At around 25m, I passed through the can be found at depths of ten to 300 meters be- thermocline, and it was low sea level, although the shallower habitats have like stepping into a warm been largely depleted. Owing to its intense and house on a chilly au- permanent coloration and glossiness, precious coral tumn day. Soon, I was all skeletons have been harvested since antiquity for comfy again. Also, I was decorative use in jewellery. no longer steering right As we slowly propelled ourselves forward with into a decompression patient measured strokes, keeping our pulse and air stop obligation for which consumption as low as possible, I was starting to feel I wasn’t really prepared the cold creep through my 5.5mm wetsuit. While the nor properly equipped. surface and top layers were pleasurably warm, we For now, I was more than did pass through a thermocline under which the wa- happy just to trail the ter was markedly cooler. With the pressure at depth group of ‘tekkies’ below squeezing my wetsuit, it no longer held sufficient me who had reached a

34 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Croatia

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Reef scenery with reef covered by a mix of sponges, algae, soft and hard corals; Scenery from the archipelago around Kornati National park; Juvenile rockfish, presumably Scorpena notata; Tomisa is a trawler adapted to taking out divers and snorkellers; Lunch served on the dive boat

bles, I could only hear a gentle splash- gies but hardly a selling point. I liked sip- ing of wavelets breaking against the ping the cool local white wine, though. It hull and the occasional screams from had a distinct piney flavour akin to the seagulls fighting over scraps. The Greek constant ringing of phones and pressure to answer emails was so far of out mind—what bliss. The meal was typically Eastern European: sturdy and hardy, without much finesse. I wasn’t too crazy about it, I must admit. It was grilled fish of some indeterminate species, which shallower level, which, mind you, at 25m Interval reminded me of herring but prob- (82ft), was still not exactly shallow. Lunch! One of the highlights of a ably wasn’t, and calamari, with Looking around, the view, thanks to good diving day, and I can think some boiled vegetables and bread. the great viz, was still spectacular. Not so of much worse places to enjoy a While I didn’t expect haute cuisine to many fishes were to be seen, though. But meal than sitting on a deck with a come out of a cramped galley on a it was no matter; I was still having a good view over this archipelago. It was converted fishing vessel, suffice it to and most pleasant dive. quiet out there; aside from the say, there was room for improvement. subdued chatter around the ta- It was okay and replenished my ener-

35 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Croatia

Retsina, the famous resinated Croatia THIS PAGE: Scenes white wine. Bearing in mind that Croatia has such a complex from the village of I had more dives ahead of me, history. Over the millennia, it has Jezera and Murter I restricted myself to one—well, been part of numerous empires; Island all right—two glasses. We had a from Ancient Rome and on- long lazy break, so they would wards, it became independent wear off in time for the next dip. and then gobbled up again by some larger entity. In modern

tacked Croatia. The country will become a full member of war ended in 1995 the European Union in July 2013. It has with a total Croatian clearly come a long way in a very short victory, as it achieved period of time. There are no longer any the goals it had de- visible signs of the war, but what the clared at the begin- Croatians now refer to as the Homeland Examples of the times, it was part of Yugoslavia, declar- ning of the war: independence and War is still clearly a painful memory for hearty cuisine ing independence in 1991. The tensions preservation of its borders. However, many, even in this remote region of the to be enjoyed in the already volatile region escalated much of Croatia was devastated and country I was visiting, which saw little of in the many res- into the Croatian War of Independ- much of its economy was in ruins. the fighting. taurants on the ence when the Yugoslav National Today, the World Bank classifies As a tourist, it just seemed so peaceful island (above Army and various Serb paramilitaries at- Croatia as a high income economy. The and well organised. The infrastructure and right)

36 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Croatia

was good, and the standards seemed as up to date as in any other modern developed econo- my. As I looked around, seeing all the olive groves on the islands, I got to thinking about the long and colourful THIS PAGE: Some underwater caves were created and stalactites formed parts of this nation’s in dry air before the Mediterranean basin was filled by water from the history predating the Atlantic via the strait at Gibraltar. It is still possible to find old stalactites recent war, from an- underwater; Rockfish (above), possibly Scorpena plumeri; Assemblage of tiquity when Greek sponges and gorgonians (top right) form a colourful bouquet; Mediterrean trading colonies feather star (right) is an unstalked crinoid, which feeds by filtering small were established, particles of food from sea water with feather like arms. Tube feet covered its inclusion in the with a sticky mucus trap any food that floats past Roman empire, the establishment of a they have. times that the Greeks observed islet with a Croatian kingdom The olive tree that olive trees rarely thrived in lighthouse in 925 AD, the fight is native to the a location far from the sea but perched against the Ottomans and so on. I the war on television. Mediterranean region, and it is rather thrived where other crops on top. It came to think that it was probably In other ways, time seemed to estimated that the cultivation of failed—upon the meager, water- doesn’t unfair to put all that much focus stand still here. As I dipped my olive trees began more than 7,000 deficient soils of these islands. seem on these matters. But I suppose bread into the olive oil and looked years ago, although the place, much big- it’s only human nature, given that around, I saw row upon row of ol- time and immediate ancestry of Dive sites ger than a most adults today will have some ive groves, which seemed to have the cultivated olive are unknown. We were now anchored in a tennis court, and I understand Once again, we were being told memory of watching the news of been here forever, and perhaps But it was already during ancient shallow, sheltered cove off a little the idea was to swim around it. that gorgonians and other corals

37 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO W4_Xray_Mag_Full.pdf 2/27/2013 8:52:20 AM

The rockfish’s camouflage is effective but one can still spot it by swimming slowly and THE NEW looking closely at the reef; Croatia travel Small colony of golden cup coral, Astroides calycularis W4 (below)

and zipped up the suit. Then, off I went. I followed Alexander straight down the slope. He was once a paratrooper and it showed. I couldn’t keep up with him, as he plummeted quickly toward the seabed far below. Once again, we didn’t level off until we passed 40m, after which we swam along the wall poking into nooks and crannies looking for critters. I soon went into a shallow ascent along the reef to stay clear of decom- pression obligations, keeping visual contact with Alexander C who just kept steaming full throttle M ahead—too fast for me. I prefer diving solo anyway, Y minding my own business and goCM- ing about taking pictures withoutMY

having particles kicked up into CY

my face by divers with poor buoyCMY-

ancy control or situational awareK- ness. Yet, it was not the same as diving alone. I was always maneuvering so I could retain visual contact with my buddy—if only he would just slow down at bit. When using open circuit, I al-

WPAD

could be found predominantly be- pursuit of some better low 25m where there was a ledge footage. As I didn’t and a small drop-off leading down want to overheat W4, where modern technology enhances old fashion diving After 28 years of experience of making wetsuits we have put all our knowledge into this hi-quality suit with an to a flatter seabed at +40m. before I got into the eye-catching silverish retro/futuristic look. The 3D anatomical design, with pre-bent arms and legs with stretch Being all the wiser, I kitted up water—it was a nice panels and gender specific construction ensures a comfortable fit. Double smooth-skin seals at arms and legs, adjustable neck and a 10mm spinepad with an extra seal at the backzipper keeps the cold water out. All with my drysuit this time and twin warm summer day—I zippers in top class Vislon no10 from YKK. ToughTex panels at elbows and knees, Bonded HiQ Nylon Thread and 100% CR Neoprene in all panels. Quality is in the details.The W4 also features double computer strap tanks. Not that I was going techni- made sure that all the anchors with anti slip, comfort front neck zipper, inner plush lining, seat and shoulder antislip reinforcement. cal on this dive; I just didn’t want gear was completely The WPAD™ is a soft artfully constructed docking station located on the right thigh for our expandable pocket. to be chilled, nor end up short on rigged and the cam- www.waterproof.eu air, should I decide to go deeper in era all set, as I donned

38 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Croatia way up. The small fields were all boxed in with ancient stone borders, and our path upwards wove in and out of small plots with dif- ferent crops such as grapes for making wine, figs, olives, veg- etables, orchards of fruit trees or just meadows of grass for graz- ing livestock. As we made our way towards the summit, we were accom- panied by a ferocious concert of cicadas trying to outperform

believe that deco, or a safety stop, can these sponges comfortably be conducted (i.e. were Aplysina simply by sitting on the bottom) aerophoba—a that Alexander finally noticed common species me and looked at me with an in the Mediter- expression I did not know what ranean. I haven’t to make of in that instant. Only been able to as- afterwards did I learn that he certain that they thought he lost me early on have any use, and couldn’t find me, making which is probably him nervous. Yet, I was always dom and calm, which always translates why they are so prevalent in the shallow- within visual range and never into greater enjoyment—knowing that I er parts, but they are very decorative. lost sight of him. I just could not always have a complete, redundant life- In one of the scientific descriptions I keep up with him while carry- support system, should I have a technical found online, these sponges were de- ing a big camera, which wasn’t malfunction of some kind. scribed as: “Bright yellow in life, turning very streamlined and could not With the sort of diving I was doing here, characteristically dark greenish blue- be pushed through water very it was very much a case in point. I was black when taken out of the water, quickly. not embarking on any technical diving discolouring one’s fingers. In alcohol, the in this location, only enjoying a wider black colour extends into the alcohol Topside activities latitude, such as not having to watch a and also blackens labels to the point of That afternoon, I went for a walk clock frantically counting down the min- becoming illegible.” So, there you have with Andrey and his kids into the utes to the end of my dive. I had time to it. There is always something new to learn hills behind the village. There look around because the double 12’s on about the sea. It’s one of the things that was a sweet and pleasant scent my back gave me a plentiful supply of air makes diving such a great pastime. of herbs, pine, hay and wild to muck about with for a time. During my whole dive, I had kept our flowers in the air. I slowed down, gliding slowly over a Russian paratrooper fixed in the corner The highest point on the island bed of marine grasses. Soon, I could pick of my eye, but now I saw him swimming was Raduć hills. At 128m above out some critters—first, a purpleFlabellina somewhat frantically back and forth sea level, it was not so rigorous a nudibranch, then an octopus contorting along the reef, as if he was searching for hike as to be restricted to fitness itself into an incredibly narrow crevice, something. I gradually closed the gap fanatics, but it was a vigorous ways dive twins—a double tank with two then a pipefish. Among the grasses were until I finally flew to his side like a wingman walk that gave a decent work- CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Sponge cluster of Aplysina regulators—where available, even in the small clusters of bright yellow marine for the remainder of the dive, which at out and burned off that opulent aerophoba—a common species in the Mediterranean; shallow end of the recreational range. sponges. this point was heading towards the shal- but yummy ice cream cone The archipelago also offers ample opportunity for great I’ve never felt like it was overkill; it’s al- Sponges are not my forte, but con- lows and the boat. It was only when we topped with blueberries, nuts snorkelling; Idyllic view of donkey grazing in a field; Diver ways provided me with a sense of free- sulting with guidebooks later led me to reached a plateau at around 5m where and whipped grin I had on the practising SMB deployment skills near the dive boat

39 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO WATERFALLS OF Krka National Park Croatia Krka National Park which is only a short travel drive from Murter Island, encompasses an area of 109 square kilometers along the Krka River after which it is named and

THIS PAGE: Views of Jezera from the hillsides surround- ing the vil- lage. Walking through the winding nar- row streets and pathways, there are things to dis- cover around every corner

which it encloses. It is characterised by exceptionally rich and varied flora and fauna, with more than 860 species and subspecies of plants that have been identi- fied here. One of the most attractive parts of the park is Skradinski buk, which is a mas- sive, clear, natural pool with high waterfalls at one end and cascades at the other. ■ sounds up to 120 decibels, Cicadas are benign to humans which is among the loudest of and do not bite or sting. all insect-produced sounds. At the top, we had a spec- Species have different mating tacular view of the whole island songs to ensure they attract the and its four main villages—Tisno, appropriate mate. It is often Jezera, Betina and Murter—with difficult to make out the direc- their stone-vaulted streets and tion from which cicada song is ivy-covered walls. Murter Island is coming because the low pitch only 18.6 squ km (7.2 squ miles) carries well and because it and yet, there exist different Bay stands the Romanesque well against the splendours may, in fact, be coming from dialects in each village as well as church of St. Martin, which of Raja Ampat, Fiji and the many directions at once, as a rivalry—a friendly one, I hope— dates back to the end of the like, but what does? cicadas in various trees spur between these villages, which 11th century. In the same lo- Considering that the others to make noise in unison. are mere hiking distances apart, cality lie the remains of Ro- whole package also about which dialect is the proper man villas, medieval tombs includes history and or right way to speak. We are and a basilica. culture enough to told that the oldest stone-built In a way, this fill a year’s worth of sites of cultural heritage on the little island em- episodes on the island of Murter date back to the bodies all I find Discovery Channel, time of the Illyrians who built the attractive about good and healthy hill fort of Gradina, which now lies going diving food, no less than one another. It was only the between Murter and Betina, as in the Mediter- eight national parks, males that sang, and they do well as the ruins that can easily ranean. The un- cities with roots in an- their most spirited singing dur- be seen on top of the hill where derwater scenery tiquity or the Middle Ages ing the hotter hours of a summer a giant cross stands today. and marine life within range of a day trip, day. Some cicadas produce Near near Tisno, in Makirina may not compete hospitable people and a

40 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Croatia part of the midship torn completely open by the explosion, which must have been massive. Due to the depth of this wreck—the deck starts at 40m—it is clearly not a dive for the inexperienced, as some decompres- sion is virtually unavoidable. That aside, it is an uncomplicated wreck to dive, provided the sea is flat and the viz is decent. A downline mount- ed from a permanently moored buoy takes divers straight down to where they want to be. The superstructure is gone and so is the propeller. It is not known who salvaged it. Since the wreck still holds ammunition, including substantial amounts of artillery gre- nades, it has in places been covered with a steel net. seems littered with wrecks and ar- problems when it came under attack We descended through crystal chaeological artefacts from ancient by British aircraft and exploded. clear blue water along the anchor Greek and Roman amphorae, to the The wreck now rests almost upright line and passed through two ther- many wrecks from the World Wars on a flat seabed at 50m, with a large moclines or marked temperature and some more mod- ern ones. For passion- ate treasure hunters or wreck detectives, there are plentiful op- tions to explore wrecks and artefacts at differ- ent depths, although a number of wrecks rests too deep for recrea- tional divers. While we did dive on a number of wrecks, one of the more at- tractive was the Francesca di Rimini—a vast array of activities to indulge in, cargo vessel that was it is a pretty good deal overall. There sunk during WWII in is something for everybody, and it circumstances which is easy, accessible and affordable are not entirely clear. to bring the whole family, whether According to the most you prefer to spend your time on the reliable sources, it was beaches or go visit monuments. transporting ammuni- tion for the German Wrecks forces in North Africa There is diving for all qualification and was anchored off levels from shallow reefs to caves the island of Kaprije, and wrecks. The Croatian coast just experiencing engine THIS PAGE: Views from the wreck sites found around Murter Island

41 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Croatia

THIS PAGE: Divers explore the wreck of cargo vessel Francesca di Rimini sunk in WWII

so we had to be very careful not the stern. From there, we started our swim to damage the equipment or get back to the bow of the ship. We threw gradients at 5 and 21 meters depth. In distance we could see a blue stuck in tight spots. As we went a last sad look at the sunken giant and the blue haze beneath, I started to make spot of light, which was the through a passage in the hold, we began our ascent. We still had a long de- out the contours of what was once a second hatch of the hold. The found a huge hole with torn metal compression ahead of us even when we proud ship. From the top of the bow, we plan was to spend 15 minutes all over—this was quite evidently accellerated it by breathing pure oxygen went to the stern along the starboard reaching the maximum depth where that deadly torpedo struck at a depth of 6m before we could once side, reaching the maximum permitted (MOD) and pass through the hold by go- on taking pictures inside the hold, as we the port side of the ship. We carefully again pop up into the strong Croatian depth. We entered the open doorway ing in one entrance and out the other. went towards the front of the ship. The made our way past it, took some more sunlight, warm wind and good friends of the hold. It was dark inside, but in the Inside, we turned on our lights and went hold was full of sharp metal structures, pictures and went up to the port side of awaiting us top side. ■

42 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO nasa fact file Croatia RIGHT: Global map with location of Croatia BELOW: Location of Murter Island on map of Croatia sources: U.S. cia world fact book, visit-fsm.org

History Until the end of World Lowest point: AUSTRIA food or waterborne diseases, such War I, the region that now makes Adriatic Sea 0m. HUNGARY Wastes, as bacterial diarrhea, and vector- up Croatia was part of the Austro- Highest point: ITALY Law of borne diseases such as tickborne Hungarian Empire. A kingdom Dinara 1,831m. the Sea, encephalitis. There have been SLOVENIA was formed In 1918 by the Croats, Note: Croatia Marine cases of highly pathogenic H5N1 ZAGREB Serbs and Slovenes which was is in control of Dumping, avian influenza in this country, but called Yugoslavia after 1929. most of the Sisak Osijek Ozone Layer ment it poses a very small risk with very Under the heavy hand of Marshal land routes from Rijeka Protection, Ship climate and rare cases possible among those Tito, Yugoslavia became a feder- Western Europe Omlšalj Vukovar Pollution, Wetlands, uneven regional devel- who are in close contact with al independent Communist state to the Aegean Whaling opment. birds (2009) after World War II. In 1991, Croatia Sea and the declared its independence from Turkish Straits; A Pula Economy While Population 4,480,043 (July 2012 Decompression chamber Yugoslavia, but it took four years majority of the Croatia is still one of the est.) Ethnic groups: Croat 89.6%, The Split Hyperbaric Decompres- of fighting before the occupying Adriatic Sea BOSNIA & richest of the former Serb 4.5%, other ethnic groups sion Chamber - IPM HRM Serb forces were for the most part islands are locat- HERZAGOVINA Yugoslav republics, its including Bosniak, Hungarian, Šoltanska 1, 21 000 Split cleared from Croatian lands, as ed off the coast Zadar economy took a big hit Slovene, Czech and Roma 5.9% Tel: + 385 (0)21 354 511 well as a majority of the ethnic of Croatia. There Dinara during the war in 1991- (2001 census) Internet users: 2.234 Serb population in the country. In are round 1,200 Šibenik 95. During that time, the million (2009) Web sites 1998, the last Serb-held enclave islands, islets, Split country’s output col- Croatia Tourism in eastern Slavonia was returned rocks and ridges. Adriatic lapsed, and it missed Currency Ukuna (HRK) croatia.hr to Croatia, with the supervision of Sea out on early investment Exchange rates: 1EUR=7.58HRK; the United Nations. Croatia joined Climate Along Ploče in Central and Eastern 1USD=5.68HRK; 1GBP=9.02HRK; NATO in 2009, and in 2011, joined the coast, MONT. Europe after the Berlin 1AUD=6HRK; 1SGD=4.63HRK the European Union, with ratifica- Croatia has Wall fell. However, tion in 2013. Government: presi- Mediterranean Dubrovnik Croatia’s economic out- Language The official dential/parliamentary democ- climate with mild ITALY look began to improve language is Croatian racy. Capital: Zagreb winters and dry slowly between 2000 96.1% but English is taught summers, while al continues as well as reconstruc- and 2007, with moder- in elementary schools Geography Croatia is located the interior has continental cli- tion of the nation’s infrastructure ate but steady growth in GDP and is widely spoken by in Southeastern Europe. It borders mate with hot summers and cold after the civil strife in 1992-95. The which was spurred by a rebound younger staff in tourist the Adriatic Sea and lies between winters. nation is party to: Air Pollution, in tourism and consumer spend- areas, Serbian 1%, other Bosnia and Herzegovina and Air Pollution-Nitrogen Oxides, ing fostered by credit incentives. languages including Slovenia. There is diverse geogra- Environmental issues The Air Pollution-Persistent Organic The worldwide economic crunch Italian, Hungarian, phy in the terrain, with flat plains country struggles with air pollution Pollutants, Air Pollution-Sulfur 94, has affected Croatia since 2008, Czech, Slovak and along the Hungarian border and from metallurgical plants, which Air Pollution-Volatile Organic with the country’s economy still German 2.9% (2001 low mountains and highlands results in acid rain that is damag- Compounds, Biodiversity, Climate struggling to recover. Challenges census) near the Adriatic coast and ing the forests. There is also coast- Change, Climate Change- facing the nation include a high islands. Coastline: 5,835km (main- al pollution from domestic and Kyoto Protocol, Desertification, unemployment rate, an increas- Health There is an inter- land 1,777km, islands 4,058km). industrial waste. Landmine remov- Endangered Species, Hazardous ing trade deficit, a difficult invest- mediate degree of risk for

43 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO