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X-Ray Mag Issue #53 | March 2013

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X-Ray Mag Issue #53 | March 2013 Sumptuous Diving MaldivesText and photos by Scott Johnson 19 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Maldives A dhoni, Maldivian style sailboat, at Four Seasons Resort (above); Massive school of bluestripe snapper (right) at Banana Reef, North Male′ Atoll; Friendly honeycomb moray eel (below) being cleaned by bluestreak cleaner wrasse. PREVIOUS PAGE: Resident manta rays circling at Lankan, North Male′ Atoll I eagerly plunge into the series of shots through the viewfinder even begin to blow into the SMB, I hear refreshing, blue water at Miyaru of my Aquatica AD7000 housing, paus- someone clear his throat behind me. ing only long enough to reposition the I turn to see two uniformed crewman Faru off South Male′ Atoll and two Sea and Sea YS-250 strobes. The viz standing on the bow of a yacht and a begin to drift with the rest of is limited due to the sand being stirred couple sipping champagne on a plat- my group as the stiff current by the outgoing tide, but I persevere in form above them. pushes us along. Within min- hopes that at least one of the images will be decent. utes, I spot one of my favor- My dwindling remaining bottom time ite marine animals extended forces me to leave the friendly moray from a hole near the bottom. I and gradually work my way to fresh air. quickly exhale and spread my When I surface, I spot the dhoni (the infamous Maldivian style of boat that arms wide to simultaneously epitomizes “a slow boat to China”) descend and slowdown so as highlighted in the glow of the setting not to overshoot the area. sun, but far away. Apparently, the rest of the group rode the current through- The surrounding coral outcroppings out the dive while I surfaced close to offer protection from the current and where I entered. allow me to focus on the impressive As I reach for my SMB (surface marker honeycomb moray (Gymnothorax fav- buoy), a speed boat appears out of agineus) that seems as curious of me as nowhere and passes much too close I am of it. The beautiful eel sways back for comfort. The dwindling ambient and forth as if to some siren’s melody light means I need to inflate the SMB that only it can hear. I compose a sooner rather than later. Before I can 20 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Maldives One of the beaches (above) and swimming pools (left) at the Four Seasons Resort The crewman on the right says, and are situated slightly above the “We saw that idiot race his boat dan- equator in the Indian Ocean. An atoll, gerously close to your position and which is derived from the Maldivian thought you could use our assistance. word atholhu, is the product of fring- Would you like us to take you to your ing reefs that originated from the sides vessel?” Stunned, I simply nodded my of a volcano and then continued to head in agreement. The crew helps grow towards the surface as the vol- me aboard, and the couple insists cano receded back to the ocean I be given a glass of champagne. floor. The resulting ring-shaped barrier Thus, I am transported “James Bond” reefs have a foundation of lava and style back to the Maldives Aggressor’s dead coral, protect a central lagoon dhoni, holding a glass of bubbly and and are separated from each other chatting with my rescuers. My dive by channels that lead for the lagoon mates roar with laughter when they to the sea. Since atolls are built from realize it is me and yell in unison, “It colonizing corals, they are limited to figures!” This is the perfect ending to tropical and sub-tropical oceans that another glorious day of diving in the possess the warm water and plenti- Maldives. ful nutrients needed to support such creatures. The Flower of the Indies The Maldivian atolls, which are part The Republic of Maldives is comprised of the submarine mountain range of 26 geographical atolls that col- called the Laccadives-Chagos Ridge, lectively resemble an elongated, jew- are intermittently spread over 56,000 eled necklace running north/south sq mi (90,000 sq km). They protect The Maldives Aggressor liveaboard 21 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Maldives Oriental sweetlips at dusk off South Ari Atoll; Private villa beach, Four Seasons Resort (top left) almost 2,000 islands, only 200 of which aways that are beyond mere opulence. are inhabited. Ninety-nine percent of the Pampered cycles of dive-eat-and-relax Maldives is ocean and only 186 sq mi (300 allow you to indulge personal passions, sq km) of the country is above the water’s while making it easy to forget the hectic surface! pace of modern life. Marco Polo called the Maldives the My own Rich and Shameless episode “Flower of the Indies”. Polo obviously had features a stay at the luxurious Four Seasons fine taste. I have visited many countries Resort at Landaa Giraavaru and charters and islands throughout my career, but on the Four Season’s Maldives Explorer I have never flown over a more beauti- and Maldives Aggressor. This combina- ful island nation. The low flying sea planes tion of land-based resort and liveaboard provide the perfect vantage points for (safari boat in the Maldives) charter is the soaking in the brilliant white sand beaches, ideal way to both explore and soak in the statuesque palm trees and exquisite shades enchanting surroundings. Impeccable ser- of blue, from the dark blue sea to the tur- vice is the norm. To be candid, the unre- quoise waters outlining the atolls. The scen- lenting effort to appease and even antici- ery is absolutely breathtaking. pate my every need throughout my stay A dive holiday here is like staging your has left me a bit paranoid. I keep waiting own version of Lifestyles of the Rich and for a hand to materialize whenever I need Famous. The natural settings and idyl- to wipe my nose or other less visible body lic private island resorts offer lavish get- parts. Maldivian anemonefish in a magnificent anemone Curious hawksbill sea turtle at Muthaafush Thila, Baa Atoll at Maaya Thila, North Ari Atoll 22 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Maldives Lyretail anthias and hard coral cover at Radhdhiggaa Thila, South Ari Atoll The currents rule, the location, direction, pace, a circular reef within a channel the divers drool difficulty and even the excite- that extends to the surface. Its The Maldivian underwater world ment of the dives. outer edge is exposed to the is even more rich and extrava- The diving is defined by open ocean and often a prime gant than any terrestrial man- a reef’s formation, size and location for spotting pelagics made setting. More than 1,000 depth as a kandu, faru, thila and large schools. Thilas are species of fish and 200 species or giri. A kandu is a channel oblong or circular reefs within an of coral are present. Currents that connects a lagoon to the atoll with tops 6m to 12m (20ft carry you along healthy reefs open ocean. These dives often to 40ft) below the surface. Their adorned in hard and soft cor- produce strong currents and steep walls are pocked with als. Brightly colored anthias dart should only be attempted on an overhangs that are lined with among coral heads, while large incoming tide that carries divers soft corals and filled with fish. A schools of bluestripe snapper into the safety of the lagoon. giri is like a thila, but smaller and and neon fusiliers move in unison The incoming tide also provides reaching within 1m to 3m (5ft to as they cling to or sweep over much better visibility that than 10ft) of the surface. Yellowmargin moray eel at the reef. Yes, currents dictate the outgoing variety. A faru is Miyaru Gaa, South Ari Atoll South corals, Back Faru, North Male′ Atoll; Longnose hawkfish, Vaadhoo Thila, Raa Atoll (top) 23 X-RAY MAG : 53 : 2013 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Maldives About the only way ments. I watch 17 large mantas sweep to spend a week over the divers’ heads and take turns diving here and miss being cleaned. The rays’ movements them is to scuba in seem to be perfectly choreographed a pool or keep your as they dance and yet avoid one eyes closed. Lankan another in such a compressed space. or Manta Point off The other divers, like me, are in awe North Male′ Atoll at the performance. The mantas were offers one of the there when we arrived and remain many shallow-water even as we watch them during our Manta Ray cleaning respective safety stops. stations scattered The color, variety and action on even throughout the these “simple” dives can be a bit over- archipelago. whelming if you take the time to soak Prior to the dive, in the entirety of your surroundings. For Marine marvels guests are instructed to find a spot example, I made three consecutive Manta rays (Manta alfredi) are the sig- just below the top of the small reef so dives on another manta ray cleaning nature marine animal in the Maldives.
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