Secrets of the Stones

JEWELLERY SECRETS OF THE STONES Vincenzo Castaldo, creative director of Pomellato, tells THERESA HAROLD about the Milanese house’s unique link with its women customers and the hidden beauty of its pieces STANDING IN THE Pomellato gems So yes, Pomellato is arguably the first feminist more couture approach. As demand vault feels nothing like I’d imagined. fine-jewellery brand. Its story began in 1967 at has gone up for quintessentially For starters, it doesn’t look like the the legendary Bar Jamaica on Milan’s Via Brera. Pomellato materials, such as vaults in heist movies. It’s more like The haunt of artists and poets, it was also the aquamarine, the brand has had to a very tidy stockroom, with blue favoured watering hole of one Pino Rabolini. explore other hardstones to keep its plastic bins lining the shelves and He was the young heir to a family of Milanese prices competitive. tube lighting illuminating the small goldsmiths, and it was here that he had the idea “The Rittrato 50 collection was space. Stefano, the gem master, of creating a new kind of jewellery line – one done to celebrate our attitude begins his talk by ticking off the that was aimed at the emancipated women of and our creativity,” says Castaldo, countries of origin for these semi- the era, who would buy the colourful pieces for fanning open a portfolio of sketches precious materials. As he hops herself as opposed to waiting for a man to do so. and photographs. “The name around the globe from Australia to This unconventional, “prêt-à-porter” approach to ‘Rittrato’ is because we used portrait Brazil, he picks up the uncut stones jewellery struck a chord, and its success cut, which is large enough to cut and drops them back into the tubs has led to the opening of more than 60 shops in through the hardstone. We did with the insouciance of someone 50 countries. a collection of several minerals, handling pick ’n’ mix. Some are the In 2013, luxury conglomerate Kering bought and you can see they are almost size of a fist, others the size of a the company from the Rabolini family for an unknown. The names are not very pinky finger. undisclosed sum, and two years later appointed familiar in the jewellery field.” As anyone familiar with the brand Sabina Belli as CEO of the Pomellato group Working together with the 100 will know, these are not rubies and (comprising the brand and its more accessible in-house artisans and the gem diamonds. These are rose quartz label, Dodo). It seems fitting that a brand such as master, Castaldo is responsible and citrine, banded agate and Pomellato, which has long associated itself with for maintaining and shaping the chrysoprase – names that belong female empowerment, should have one of the few Pomellato aesthetic. Before joining more to a New Age gift shop than a woman chief executives within the Kering Group. the brand in 2002, he’d worked for luxury jeweller’s boutique. And yet, And it is at Belli’s invitation that I am here Romeo Gigli and Dolce & Gabbana. therein lies a big part of Pomellato’s at Casa Pomellato, on the day of its golden “Fashion was my first love,” he appeal. By sourcing eye-catching anniversary bash, to meet the brand’s Creative says. “I arrived in Milan in 1986, and gemstones that aren’t in huge Director: Vincenzo Castaldo. While the evening’s the city was really amazing, because demand, and by building up an celebration will see the launch of Iconica (a it was the start of ‘Made in Italy’. For archive of this stock, the company is collection of rings, bracelets and pendants in me, it was a chance to work with able to keep prices affordable for its either white or rose gold and with the option of these brands and try to understand clients – the majority of whom are diamonds), this morning is all about Rittrato the real process of creativity. When women. In the high-end jewellery – Italian for “portrait”. Comprising 50 one-of-a- I decided to work with Pomellato, it world, while women are usually the kind pieces, united for the first time in the Casa was because – in a certain way – it’s intended wearer, they are not often Pomellato showroom, Rittrato marks the brand’s close to fashion. the intended purchaser. foray into what it calls “the new precious” and a “But the first lesson I learned was POMELLATO ICONICA COLLECTION RINGS 114 115 JEWELLERY NATHALIE RAPTI POMELLATO ICONICA GOMEZ AND VINCENZO COLLECTION CASTALDO “THE POMELLATO WOMAN IS INDEPENDENT: SHE’S A WOMAN THAT BUYS JEWELS FOR HERSELF” CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT: POMELLATO VICTORIA EARRINGS WITH WHITE AGATE; POMELLATO NUDO MAXI SOLITAIRE NECKLACE AND RING; POMELLATO RITRATTO RINGS “The Pomellato woman is independent: she’s Castaldo nods. “For sure. In the past, for a woman that buys jewels for herself,” says example, lapis lazuli was believed to keep Castaldo. “When I go into our boutiques in danger away.” He elaborates, explaining how the Milan, for example, I find women shopping with Ancient Egyptians used these stones; and how friends, choosing jewellery like [they would] in terms of time, faceted stones were invented that when you create something at shoes or handbags. This kind of approach is very merely yesterday. Pomellato, it’s not so short-lived as confident. Usually, in the jewellery field, when a “What I’ve learned in this project is that every fashion. You create something that woman wants something it’s the husband that single stone has a real small voice that needs to may well be forever, or [at the very buys it for her. be heard. You have to connect. Maybe it’s a little least] has a really long life. So you “With Pomellato, there’s a relationship with bit too mystical,” he says, breaking off with a have to find a compromise between women that we’ve built over the years. It’s true laugh, and I insist that I’m all for mystical. the mood of now, but without that when you buy a ring it’s different from “The reason why [these pieces] have power,” falling into the fashion accessories buying shoes or handbags, because with jewels he says, “is because all we really did was just give [category]. The risk is that you end you have a kind of emotional relationship. When nature a little help. This is the meaning of hidden up with something more fashion- you buy a ring, it represents for you maybe an beauty. It’s something that maybe not everybody accessory than jewellery. important moment in your life – maybe there’s a sees, but it’s there, I’m sure of it.” “I have many friends who still reason why you decided to get a gift for yourself. work in fashion and sometimes it’s So, it’s more emotional than aesthetic.” very easy to fall into this mirage. Looking at the rings on the velvet tray in Fashion is very strong; it’s very front of me, it’s hard not to fall under an almost attractive. You have to be careful: instinctive spell. The polished stones look like don’t go too close to fashion, miniature worlds captured in glass, each with because it could be dangerous for a an evocative name, such as “Tea in the Sahara” brand like Pomellato.” or “Summer Paradise”. One ring, named “Foggy For its spring 2017 campaign, Morning”, has somehow turned white green agate Pomellato eschewed the use of into an English winter as seen through the eyes models and instead featured six of Turner. It’s deeply impressive, in a way that women of varying ages and with makes diamonds look shallow. jobs ranging from nutritionist to When I mention that some of these stones brand advisor. But far from being are better known for crystal healing than fine a zeitgeisty way of ticking the jewellery, I half expect Castaldo to laugh me out #feminism box, it seemed to be of the room. Instead, his eyes light up. A member SAMILE BERMANNELI, SASHA KICHIGINA an honest reflection of the of his creative team chimes in: “There are AND LEILA NAD SABINA BELLI AND GIGI VEZZOLA company’s principles. vibrations in all those stones, for sure.” 116 117.

Load more