2018 SPRING MAGAZINE COAST TO COAST

Down East Maine An Outdoor Lover’s Paradise Timeless Mackinac Island Yooper Country and the Comeback City

SPRING DESTINATIONS Hideaway Ponds RV Resort – Ocean Canyon Gibson, Louisiana Niagara’s Lazy Lakes Resort Lockport, New York Sunrise Adventures – Ridgeview Bullhead City, Arizona

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GOOD SAM AND CAMPING WORLD TRAVEL CHAIRMAN AND CEO Marcus Lemonis 9 Down East Maine [email protected] An Outdoor Lover’s Paradise COAST TO COAST PRESIDENT STORY BY EMILY FAGAN Bruce Hoster 9 [email protected] PHOTOS BY EMILY AND MARK FAGAN MEMBER SERVICES 64 Inverness Drive E. 16 Timeless Mackinac Island Englewood, Colorado 80112 Yooper Country and the Comeback City 800-368-5721 STORY AND PHOTOS BY RICHARD VARR [email protected] COAST TO COAST WEBSITE 23 Seeking Shells on Sanibel CoastResorts.com The Best of Natural Florida COAST TO COAST FACEBOOK STORY AND PHOTOS BY PAULA LOEHR Facebook.com/CoastResorts EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Dee Whited DEPARTMENTS RESORT PROFILES ART DIRECTOR Nicole Wilson 4 From the President 6 Hideaway Ponds RV Resort – Ocean Canyon Volume 37, Number 2. Coast to Coast 5 Resort Updates (ISSN 1093-3581) is published quarterly for Gibson, Louisiana $14 per year as part of annual membership fees, by Coast to Coast Resorts, 64 Inverness 27 RV Review Drive E., Englewood, Colorado 80112. 7 Niagara’s Lazy Lakes Resort Coast to Coast Resorts assumes no responsi- Lockport, New York bility for unsolicited manuscripts­ or artwork. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced by any method without prior 8 Sunrise Adventures – written consent of the publisher. ©2018 Camp Coast to Coast, LLC. Coast wing logo is a reg- Ridgeview istered trademark of Camp Coast to Coast, LLC. Bullhead City, Arizona The GOOD SAM ICON, and Dream. Plan. Go. are registered trademarks of Good Sam Enterprises, LLC and used with permission. Unauthorized use of Coast’s or Good Sam’s trademarks is expressly prohibited. All rights reserved. 16 PRINTED IN THE USA. COVER PHOTO BY EMILY AND MARK FAGAN CTC54315 - 0218

COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 3 grow our GNP network and to provide more availability FROM THE of GNP nights for Coast members. PRESIDENT Coast members will still be able to search GNPs via the PUTTING MEMBERS FIRST online directory at CoastResorts.com, as all GNPs will continue to have profiles and listings in our online directory and be included in our online maps. When you Check Out the “check availability” for a GNP, you will be provided with New Coast a phone number to call the GNP directly to make your reservation. When you call, simply identify yourself as a Videos! Coast to Coast member, check availability of the dates you prefer, and confirm your discounted Coast member In addition to recent upgrades rate and your payment method with the GNP. Also be to our member materials, Coast sure to bring your Coast membership card to show at to Coast has created a series check-in. of videos to help both new and current members get the This change will not impact reservations for Classic, most out of their Coast member Deluxe, or Premier Resorts as these will continue to be benefits. There are Welcome booked through the Tripsetter Reservation System. videos for new members as well as “How to” videos on benefits such as Coast Travel Services, Coast Magazine Story Trip Plus, and other benefits. In addition we have created videos Wins A National Award to help members navigate the Congratulations to longtime Coast Magazine contributor CoastResorts.com website and to book RV stays at Coast Dave G. Houser, who won a Gold Award (first place) in Resorts using our Tripsetter reservation system. the Destination Travel Online Publication category in To view the videos, sign in at CoastResorts.com and the 2017 North American Travel Journalists Association select “Videos” in the Benefits drop down menu at the (NATJA) Awards Competition. His winning feature, top of your member homepage. While these videos are “Gateway to the Galaxies,” was published in the spring perfect for new members, they are also a great refresher 2017 issue of Coast Magazine and provided a tour of for current members. Get the most out of your Coast several observatories and astro-related educational membership by watching our member videos. If you facilities around Tucson, Arizona. If you missed Dave’s have any feedback on our new videos, drop us a line at award-winning travel feature, or want to reference [email protected]. features from any previous Coast Magazine digital edition, just log in at CoastResorts.com and under the Benefits tab click Digital Coast Magazines. Good Neighbor Park Program Changes If you plan to book RV stays at a Coast Good Neighbor Park (GNP), this is a reminder that the reservation process for GNPs has changed. Effective January 15, 2018, instead of making GNP reservations through the Coast Tripsetter Reservation System, Coast members will MARCUS LEMONIS BRUCE HOSTER Chairman and CEO President contact GNPs directly to make reservations and also pay Camping World & Good Sam Coast to Coast Resorts GNPs directly. We are making this change in order to [email protected] [email protected]

FROM THE PRESIDENT COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 4 GOOD NEIGHBOR NEW RESORT UPDATES TENNESSEE ADDITIONS AND CHANGES TO THE 2017 DIRECTORY Creekside RV Park, 2475 Henderson Springs Road, Pigeon Forge, 37863 Reservation phone: (865) 428- The 2018 Coast to Coast Resort Directory is packed with 4801; Email: [email protected]; everything you need to navigate the network of Coast to URL: creeksidervpark.com Coast Resorts and Coast Good Neighbor Parks. To keep Directions: From Jct US-441 & US 321: SW 0.7 mi on US members up-to-date, each issue of Coast magazine includes 321 to Henderson Springs Rd. R 0.2 mi. 2nd resort on any updates that have occurred since the last issue. R. From Parkway: W on Wears Valley Road at traffic light #3. Pass Krogers and Pigeon Forge Schools on R. At 2nd COAST DELUXE traffic light, turn R on Henderson Springs Rd. Approx 0.3 TEXAS mi 2nd resort on R. Bishop’s Landing, Willis, 77318 (page 174) Latitude: 35.80174; Longitude: -83.58911; Check-in: Email: [email protected] 1:00 P.M. Check-out: 11:00 A.M. Max RV Length: 40 COAST CLASSIC feet, Amps: 50. UTAH Notations: Special discount rate for Coast members. Skyline Mountain Resort, Fairview, UT (page 175) Call resort directly. Rate includes 4 people. Additional URL: www.skylinemountainresort.com charges: 50 amp $2/night, add’l adult $2/night, tax 12.75%. No tents. CLASSIC TERMINATIONS Season: March 1 – May 31, August 1 – August 31, TEXAS November 1 – December 31. Lazy Palms Ranch, Edinburg, 78541 (page 170) TEXAS GOOD NEIGHBOR PARKS Lazy Palms Ranch, Edinburg, 78541 (page 170); From Classic to Good Neighbor Park GOOD NEIGHBOR PARK UPDATES TEXAS GOOD NEIGHBOR PARK TERMINATION Mill Creek Ranch RV & Cottage Resort, Canton, 75103 NEVADA Reservation phone: (877) 927-3439 Riviera RV Park, Las Vegas, 89104

RESORT UPDATES COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 5 RESORT TYPE Coast Classic LOCATION Gibson, Louisiana SEASON Year-round Hideaway Ponds RV Resort – WEBSITE www.oceancanyon.com Ocean Canyon A Gem of a Resort in Cajun Country Ocean Canyon Properties, the Southeast’s largest private Hideaway Ponds also features two cabins, five park membership camping resort company, acquired Hideaway model cottages and RV sites with 30/50-amp electric Ponds Resort in Gibson, Louisiana, in September 2017. and full hookups. Located only 70 miles from New Orleans, the resort gives visitors an option to visit the big city or relax onsite The resort is located in the heart of Louisiana Cajun Bayou beneath 200-year-old oak trees. country, near Morgan City, Houma, and Thibodaux. In Houma, visit Bayou Terrebonne Museum. If Although the resort has multiple amenities, Ocean you’re visiting Morgan City the last weekend of August, Canyon plans to make many upgrades to the resort, such join in the Louisiana Shrimp and Petroleum Festival. as building additional RV sites, adding new amenities including a new playground and a new welcome center, While in Thibodaux, take a swamp tour on Louisiana’s adding additional staff, and completely renovating Cajun Bayou. Enjoy a walk along the Lockport Elevated existing facilities. Wetlands Boardwalk and a peek into the mysterious swamps full of moss-laden cypress trees, majestic eagles, Amenities onsite include a junior Olympic outdoor pool egrets, and massive alligators. and an indoor heated pool and hot tub. Members can enjoy the 4,000-square-foot clubhouse for a variety of Hideaway Ponds is a perfect complement to Abita social activities. Go paddle boating, fish in the stocked Springs, Ocean Canyon’s other resort in southern fishing ponds (three to be exact), enjoy the playgrounds, Louisiana located across Lake Pontchartrain from New and take advantage of scheduled recreational activities. Orleans.

RESORT PROFILES COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 6 RESORT TYPE Coast Classic LOCATION Lockport, New York SEASON May 1-October 31 Niagara’s Lazy Lakes Resort WEBSITE Enjoy family-owned hospitality in Niagara County www.lazylakes.com

For more than 30 years, the Swift family has been campfires. The “Country Store” at Lazy Lakes is well welcoming visitors to their resort that’s just 15 minutes stocked, and with four beautiful bathroom/shower from Niagara Falls. Lazy Lakes Resort is known as “Western facilities and two laundry rooms located throughout the New York’s Best Kept Secret.” Let it be a secret no more. resort, you’re close to one of them. It’s not just the family aspect, but the amenities that abound at this spectacular resort. If you travel without your rig, rent one of the nine fully-furnished cabins, including propane fireplaces, Once on the 80-acre property, you’ll first notice the two full bathrooms with shower, full kitchen with range, spring-fed lakes for boating and fishing. The largest refrigerator, microwave, toaster, coffeemaker, pots and pond is full of big bass for catch-and-release fishing. For pans, dishes, silverware, TV, and more. no fee, take out the row boats, kayaks, canoes, or splash boats. Enjoy the two in-ground heated swimming pools Offsite, visit nearby Lockport. According to Stewart Scott with lifeguards on duty. a Canadian traveler in 1826, “As Niagara Falls are the greatest natural wonder, so Lockport, its locks, and the The 4,000 square-foot main lodge is available for portion of the adjacent, are considered to be numerous resort activities for all ages. Enjoy breakfast the greatest artificial curiosity in this part of America.” in the lodge on weekends as well as weekend barbeques An engineering marvel when it was built, some called it in the outdoor pavillion. the Eighth Wonder of the World. Start your visit at the Erie Canal Discovery Center, continue to the Lockport All 275 campsites have city water, 30-amp or 50- Cave and Underground Boat Ride and Lockport Locks amp electric hookups, picnic tables and fire rings for and Erie Canal Cruises.

RESORT PROFILES COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 7 RESORT TYPE Coast Classic LOCATION Bullhead City, Arizona SEASON Year-round Sunrise Adventures – Ridgeview WEBSITE Sunshine 360 days a year www.coloradoriveradventures.com

Sunrise Adventures – Ridgeview in Bullhead City, Arizona, Bullhead City and Laughlin both offer some of the best is definitely a resort for all seasons. With 360 days of shopping in the area with malls and various stores sunshine a year, numerous outdoor recreation activities located minutes from the resort. If golf is a highlight can be enjoyed year-round. In addition, if water sports of your Sunrise Adventures – Ridgeview vacation, then are your favorite activities, this is the place for you. you’ll be happy because there are numerous golf courses Visit the Colorado River or nearby Lake Mohave for a in the Bullhead City/Laughlin area. The resort is an ideal wide variety of activities. Onsite, play in the heated place to tee up for the perfect RV golf getaway. swimming pool or relax in the hot tub. For exercise, join in the water aerobics. Coursing more than a thousand miles from the Rockies to the Sea of Cortez, the Colorado River provides The resort offers other amenities such as a large clubhouse irrigation, public water, and hydroelectric power to parts where various family and fun activities are held. There’s of California, Nevada and Arizona. In Laughlin, the river shuffleboard, hiking trails, and even vacation rentals. also offers a wide spectrum of recreational activities. Enjoy boating, water skiing, jet skiing, and fishing, or a Sunrise Adventures is directly across the border from refreshing dip in the brisk water. Launch ramp facilities Laughlin, Nevada, where ten casinos offer 24-hour are plentiful along the river, as are a multitude of gaming, restaurants, exciting entertainment, and much watercraft rental services. For a more relaxed pace, take more. The resort is located less than two hours from Las a leisurely, scenic ride or enjoy a dinner cruise aboard Vegas, and one hour from the famous London Bridge in paddlewheel steamship replicas. Lake Havasu City.

RESORT PROFILES COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 8 Down East MAINE An outdoor lover’s paradise

DOWN EAST MAINE COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 9 Waves crash on the shore at Acadia National Park.

Penobscot River. Down East Maine is an outdoor lover’s paradise in the Down East Maine makes for a wonderful RV trip. summertime, and one of our more unusual excursions was a stroll on the University of Maine’s Orono Bog Walk. Down East Maine Beginning with a pretty path that winds through the Story by Emily Fagan woods, we emerged onto an elevated wooden boardwalk Photos by Emily and Mark Fagan that circles out across a bog. Plaques along the boardwalk explained the origins of this unique ecosystem, and we A rich world of pungent woods, glittering blue ocean, were treated to sightings of a spotted fawn and a vibrant craggy boulders, and jaunty lighthouses awaits RVers black-throated green warbler. traveling to Down East Maine. Even though this special part of Maine is located in the farthest northeastern Leaving Bangor and driving toward the coast, we coastal corner of the state, it has been called “down east” were quickly immersed in the fun touristy flair of since the earliest sailing days because boats voyaging “Vacationland” that Mainers boast about on their license from Boston and New York had to sail downwind in a plates. Colorful lobster buoys and lobster pots decorated largely eastward direction to get there. many homes and businesses, and lots of restaurants were marked by huge red lobster signs out front. We We traveled through Maine overland in our 36-foot stopped at one for a lunchtime lobster roll, a tasty treat Hitchhiker fifth-wheel trailer—not by sailboat. And made of lobster meat mixed with mayonnaise and spread after a dash across the middle of the state, we began our on a toasted hotdog bun. It’s a delicious way to savor Down East trek in the city of Bangor. We first swung by Maine lobster without the complexities of a full-fledged the longtime home of thriller writer Stephen King whose traditional lobster dinner where you don a bib, crack the house is decorated with bats and gargoyles. Following hard shell with a nutcracker, pick out the meat with a this with a walk on the delightful Kenduskeag Stream mini fork, and dip it in a dish of butter that’s melting Trail, we then quenched our thirst with a delicious craft over a low flame. beer on the deck of the Seadog Brewery overlooking the

DOWN EAST MAINE COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 10 Twin antique cannons point out into Bar A vintage Model A Ford climbs Cadillac Mountain Harbor, reminding visitors of America’s in the heart of Acadia National Park. revolutionary history.

Just a few miles past the bridge onto Mount Desert Island Acadia National Park offers much more than just coastal lies the charming town of Bar Harbor, the gateway to vistas, however. One of the most delightful ways to Acadia National Park. High-end boutique shops, artists’ experience the Maine woods is to walk or ride on the 50 galleries, and bistros lined the narrow streets, and we miles of carriage roads that wind throughout the interior enjoyed a wonderful early morning walk, latte in hand, of the park. These beautifully groomed dirt roads were along the waterfront. Twin antique cannons perched high built by John D. Rockefeller Jr. in the early part of the on a hill pointed out into the harbor, reminding us of last century. At the time a feud had developed between America’s struggles to secure and keep its independence the local Mainers, who wanted to drive from town to centuries ago. Down in the harbor, small sailboats and town in their newfangled automobiles as they went elegant yachts moved slowly in the soft morning light, about their workaday lives, and the rich summer visitors offering a glimpse of the summertime pleasures that from the big cities who wanted to travel for leisure by have lured wealthy city dwellers to these shores since horse and buggy without sharing the road with loud and the turn of the last century. fast motorcars. While each town worked out its own local road laws, Rockefeller built the carriage roads across his Mount Desert Island (pronounced “dessert” by locals vast land holdings for his wealthy friends to ride in their despite the spelling) is shaped a bit like a lobster claw horse-drawn carriages. Later, he donated his land and facing down with its pincers made up of two large lobes roads to the National Park Service. of land separated by Somes Sound. Acadia National Park fills much of this land, and its Loop Road circles Today the carriage roads of Acadia National Park are around the eastern half. This scenic drive wanders along ideal for a horse-drawn wagon ride or to explore by the shoreline, providing occasional peeks at the ocean bicycle. The fragrance of the balsam fir in the Maine where lobster boats putt from buoy to buoy and trap woods is like no other, and we breathed deeply as we to trap. At Thunder Hole the Atlantic Ocean’s waves rode our bikes over and under the lovely stone bridges crashed into the granite shore. Loud thunderous booms that crisscross the roads. At Jordan Pond we stopped for filled the air each time a wave struck the cave below us, a bite to eat and watched kayakers paddling across its sending sprays of salt water sky high. depths. The ocean seemed a world away although it was just a few miles to the craggy shore.

DOWN EAST MAINE COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 11 Acadia National Park offers wonderful glimpses of the craggy Down East Maine coast. The Double B Mail Boat Ferry is a fun way to explore the Cranberry Islands.

A lobster boat pulls up to a jetty. Wild lupine bring vibrant color to the coastal landscape.

On another day we drove up Cadillac Mountain to the old with neither radar nor GPS to see the light piercing highest point in Acadia National Park. Wide views through the fog and night air. fanned out in every direction. On one side the vast ocean stretched to the distant horizon while on the other side Northeast Harbor is the launching point for the Double Frenchman Bay lay dotted with small islands. At the top B mail boat and ferry that takes islanders and tourists of the mountain, kids romped across big round boulders between Mount Desert Island and the nearby Cranberry while parents spread out picnic blankets for lunch with Islands. We stood in the back of the converted lobster a view. boat next to a group of construction workers who were headed to Cranberry Island for a day of work. When At the time of the roadway disputes when Rockefeller they disembarked, we joined a group of school kids and built his carriage roads, the Ford Model A was common. teachers who were on their way to school in Islesford Ironically, we happened to be visiting Acadia National on Little Cranberry Island. We were surprised to learn Park during a national rally for Ford Model A owners. More that they all commute back and forth to school on this than a hundred of these antique cars buzzed around the small boat every day, rain or shine—or blizzard. Each island, and everywhere we turned we saw them. Our big child wore a life jacket, and the conductor assured me diesel truck was quite oversized for the small park roads, that he had the phone number for every parent. The but the Model A cars were right at home and gave us a teachers wedged themselves between the kids, and we sense of what this area was like in those bygone days of all bounced over the waves together as they headed to early car travel to America’s National Parks. a day of school. Down at the southern tip of Mount Desert Island’s western We spent the day strolling the tiny streets of Islesford on lobe, we walked on a short trail through misty woods Cranberry Island. The tall wild lupines were in full bloom, to reach the bluff where Bass Harbor Lighthouse has and they turned the landscape shades of purple and warned mariners of the rocky shoals for over a century. pink. In Islesford, we stopped by Islesford Artists, an art Fog filled the air and formed beautiful droplets on the gallery owned by Katy Fernald, which is partly housed in ferns and wildflowers, and the ocean was a forbidding an attic room that used to be her husband’s repair shop gray. How reassuring it must have been for sailors of for his lobster pots, line, and buoys. Lobstering is in the

DOWN EAST MAINE COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 12 Map by William Tipton

Quaintness aside, the lobster industry has been an integral part of Down East Maine life for over a century.

DOWN EAST MAINE COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 13 West Quoddy Head Light--since 1808, there has been a lighthouse there to guide ships through the Quoddy Narrows. A lobster boat putts from one trap to the next.

blood of many Down East Mainers, and Katy’s husband England’s Grand Banks when he was only 9. He smiled was a sixth-generation lobsterman. broadly as he told us he still makes his living every day from the sea. The most unusual moment of the day came a few hours later when we returned on the mail boat ferry with the Traveling further Down East along coastal U.S. Highway school kids and their teachers. As we waited at the dock 1, we arrived in Lubec, the easternmost town in America. for the kids to board, suddenly two teachers began This village hugs a tiny harbor and has a colorful main loading a dozen or more large music drums onto the boat. street. Nearby, we found the unusual red and white As the boat began to bounce over the waves, I chatted candy-striped West Quoddy Head Lighthouse standing with the music teacher, a locally known musician, and proudly on a bluff. Taking a short bridge to Campobello he explained that he was bringing the drums off the Island, we left America behind for a few hours and island after teaching the kids about West African music. explored the pretty Canadian island of Campobello (a passport is required). At the far end of the island, the Back on the mainland, north and east of Mount Desert East Quoddy Head Lighthouse marked the dangers of the Island, the Schoodic Scenic Byway made for another craggy shore and one-upped its American candy-striped beautiful day trip. This drive takes in a remote part of companion across the bay with a brilliant red cross Acadia National Park at Schoodic Point as well as some emblazoned on the front. We learned that it is possible stunning and classic coastal Maine vistas beyond that. to walk out to the tiny lighthouse island at low tide, but The small town of Winter Harbor is home to just a few the timing of high tide prevented us from going. boats, but it was the area around Prospect Harbor that made us feel we were really getting Down East. As we Continuing our trek Down East along the coastal route, photographed the little lighthouse and cluster of lobster our last stop was the town of Eastport. Not many tourists boats, a weathered lobsterman in wet knee-high rubber make it this far Down East, and we were enchanted by boots came up the gangway from the dock and began to the slow pace and authentic flavor of seaside village tell us about his life on the ocean. Eighty-two years old life in such a remote spot. Small homes built as much and very spry, his eyes twinkled as he described his first as a century ago lined the narrow roads around town, offshore fishing expedition with his grandfather on New and in each of the small eateries we visited we were

DOWN EAST MAINE COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 14 The Carriage Roads wander throughout Acadia National Park and are fun to explore by bike photoThe small caption town of Bar Harbor is filled with cute boutiques, tourist shops and eateries. or on a horse-drawn wagon ride.

warmly welcomed by the locals. A few folks lamented that the collapse of a portion of the town pier in 2014 has reduced the number of large tourist boats that visit Eastport, negatively impacting their summer tourist season. But we were charmed by the quiet streets where seagulls’ raucous cries were the loudest sound. Down East Maine is a beautiful place to visit by RV, and our few fun-filled weeks there have whetted our appetites to return for more!

FOR MORE INFORMATION www.visitmaine.com • www.downeast.com www.mainetourism.com • www.downeastacadia.com

West Quoddy Head Lighthouse is candy-striped red and white. Down East Maine is filled with quiet bays and coves.

DOWN EAST MAINE COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 15 TIMELESS MACKINAC ISLAND Yooper Country and the Comeback City

MACKINAC ISLAND COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 16 Grand Hotel.

peninsulas seemingly touch—in the deep blue that link Lakes and Huron— Lake view from lookout at Arch Rock, Mackinac Island. Mackinac Island (pronounced Mackinaw) seems a world away. That’s because it still basks in its past colonial character and Victorian glory thanks to the preservation Memories and restoration of its 18th-century fort and 19th- Story and photos by Richard Varr century buildings, most notably the iconic, columned Grand Hotel. Motorized vehicles have been banned since The pace is exhilaratingly slow. 1898, making horse carriages, bicycles, and walking the I can hear every step the horses take—clip-clop, clip- only way to get around. From May through October, clop—as they trudge along the historic waterside thousands of overnighters and day-trippers reach the village. Their names are Tarfoot and Ree, pulling the island by ferry from either Mackinaw City or St. Ignace. carriage in which I’ve snagged a ride as it meanders Overnight RV parking arrangements for visiting RVers through an increasingly busy Main Street with its can be made at the ferry terminals. storefronts showcasing fudge shops, art galleries, ice- I first became enchanted with Mackinac after seeing the cream stands, and boutiques. “I love it in the mornings dreamy 1980 movie Somewhere in Time with Christopher when all the people are out—it’s wonderful,” exults the Reeve and Jane Seymour, where the characters connect carriage driver, a student who’s working—as so many through time travel. Shot almost exclusively on the seasonal workers here do—a summer job on Mackinac island, the 1887 Grand Hotel helps set the tone of Island. yesteryear with its Victorian-era architecture and lushly “And everyone is so happy here,” she adds. “There are furnished lobby and guest rooms, along with traditional no cars, definitely bringing you back to yesteryear. And rocking chairs lining the hotel’s 660-foot-long porch, that’s such a big part of Mackinac—stepping back in the world’s longest. time.” “The movie has two elements, time travel and love as Just off the shores where Michigan’s Lower and Upper being eternal and unending,” explains Grand Hotel

MACKINAC ISLAND COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 17 The Movie “Somewhere in Time” poster at the Grand Hotel. View of Grand Hotel porch. Fudge in Ryba’s Fudge Shop, Mackinac Island.

Resident Historian Bob Tagatz. “This is one of the few “The island is slow-paced because of them, and thus places where you can relive the movie as 95 percent was people here take their time and enjoy it more,” says shot on Mackinac Island and 90 percent on our property, Veronica Gough of Cindy’s Riding Stable, a tour operator and all those things are still there.” offering equestrian jaunts along the island’s 83 miles of crisscrossing roads and trails. Most of the island’s inns, hotels, and shops sit within the so-called downtown area along the port and A walk up a steep pathway leads to Fort Mackinac, scenic waterfront. On Market Street, flowers hang from built by the British in the early 1780s but falling to lampposts and galleries showcase paintings of orange- the Americans after the Revolutionary War. Interactive tinted sunsets. And on Main Street, I peer through a displays and period furnishings fill 14 original buildings, storefront window to see mounds of hot, sticky fudge while reenactments and cannon firings reverberate pounded and shaped, as fudge-tasting is one of the within the stone ramparts. Impressive waterfront views island’s favorite pastimes. “We pour it on a marble slab can be seen from the fort’s walls. because it pulls the heat out of the candy and cools it,” says Les Parrish of Ryba’s Fudge Shop. To explore the rest of the island, 80 percent of which is within the state park, I rent a bicycle and pedal First settled by Native Americans and then French along curvy roads and bike paths where unusual stone missionaries and fur traders, the island became a respite formations pierce the tree line. They include Arch Rock, for the Gilded Age rich and famous who built hotels and a bridge-like span of eroded breccias carved out of a summer cottages in the late 19th century to escape hillside 146 feet above ’s shoreline; and industrialized Great Lakes cities. Today the island of less Sugar Loaf Rock, another breccias mass shooting up 75 than four square miles has become one of the Midwest’s feet. Expansive island views can also be seen from nearby most popular resort destinations. Pointed church Point Lookout and the hilltop site of Fort Holmes. steeples and the rounded towers of Victorian homes bring to mind a New England town. Winding pathways At the end of the day, I enjoy the sunset while in a twist through forested bluffs, now part of Mackinac rocking chair on the Grand Hotel’s elongated porch. Island State Park. And horses are at almost every turn. “We sell a summer memory, a summer experience,” says

MACKINAC ISLAND COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 18 Bicycling along the lakeshore on Mackinac Island. Shipwreck exhibit inside the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum, .

Sunsets seem more colorful as seen from the island. Lighthouses off the shores of Mackinac Island.

Tagatz. “I think the biggest thing is to come here and From the Mackinac Bridge we head north on State Hwy. slow down.” 123, arriving at Whitefish Point along the southern shores of vast , the largest freshwater body From Michigan’s Lower Peninsula, the Mackinac Bridge— in the world in area. Whitefish Point is home to the clearly seen from the Grand Hotel’s porch—is the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum, the U.S. Coast Guard’s gateway to the eastern end of the Upper Peninsula, or Life Boat and Light Station with keeper’s quarters, and U.P. as locals call it. Opened in 1957, 2017 marked the Lake Superior’s oldest active lighthouse, built in 1861. 60th anniversary of the five-mile-long bridge, the third longest in the world. Rich with hardwood maple forests, The Shipwreck Museum exhibits artifacts from 13 it’s no surprise that logging and mining remain among shipwrecks—freighters that sank just off the shores the area’s main industries, with boats still transporting in Whitefish Bay. “Fog was a common occurrence wood, copper and iron ore to cities along the Great particularly in the spring and fall,” notes Huffman. Lakes. “Before modern navigational equipment, a lot of the accidents were caused by collisions between the boats, Pounded by harsh and long lake-effect snowy winters, not so much rough or high seas.” local residents, many of Finnish descent and nicknamed “Yoopers” (rooted from U.P.-ers), have developed their An exception to that was the SS Edmund Fitzgerald, own quirky culture. “We blame nine months of winter plummeting to the lake’s cold depths during a storm for making us the way we are,” jokes Fred Huffman of in November 1975. Hauling 29,000 tons of iron ore Marquette Country Tours. “It’s not so much that you to Detroit steel mills, the freighter’s sheer weight were born in the Upper Peninsula, it’s a state of mind.” apparently took it down after it was slammed by fierce Favorite pastimes include ice fishing, and unique to the 20 to 35-foot waves. A day later, Canadian singer U.P. are so-called “pasties,” dough pockets filled with Gordon Lightfoot wrote the “The Wreck of the Edmund meat and vegetables. “Stick a pasty on a shovel over a Fitzgerald,” practically immortalizing the tragedy. fire and a miner would always have a warm lunch,” quips Huffman. The museum pays tribute to the 29 crewmembers that perished that day. Divers retrieved the Fitzgerald’s bell

MACKINAC ISLAND COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 19 Arch Rock. Sugar Loaf Rock from the ground, Mackinac Island.

Waterfalls at Tahquamenon Falls State Park, Upper Michigan.

MACKINAC ISLAND COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 20 Riding a Model T Ford in Greenfield Village, adjacent to the Henry Ford Museum. Views of the “Downtown” from Fort Mackinac.

in 1995—a centerpiece exhibit—and replaced it on the largest Poe Lock able to accommodate 1,000-foot-long wreckage with a bell engraved with the names of the cargo ships. Watching ships slowly rise and fall as the lost crewmembers. locks fill and drain can be seen from three observation platforms. The Visitor Center showcases exhibits with Returning south along Hwy. 123 we stop at lock models, video presentations and history. Tahquamenon Falls State Park (Tahquamenon rhymes with phenomenon), centered by multi-tiered falls South of the Mackinac Bridge, another scenic tour deluged with streaks of rust-colored water trails clearly stretches along coastal Lake Michigan via U.S. Route 31 seen against the frothy white turbulence. “The hemlock from Mackinaw City to Traverse City. Upscale Petoskey is trees are about 500-600 years old and you can see some where favorite son and writer Ernest Hemingway spent are starting to decompose,” explains park guide Theresa much of his youth after his father built a cottage on Neal. “Hemlock, cedar and oak trees are filled with nearby Walloon Lake. The area is also home to the official brown tannic acid and that’s the reason the water is the Michigan state stone known as Petoskey Stones—shiny, color it is—not because of copper or minerals.” 350-million-year-old fossilized colony coral found along the shores of Little Traverse Bay. To see the falls we hike a third of a mile or so from the park’s Visitor Center, passing chirping verios, redstarts, Unique mushroom-like stone houses are must-see and other birds perched in American beech and sugar sights in the charming marina town of Charlevoix. With maple trees. More than 50,000 gallons of water per cedar-thatched and rounded roofs, many of the gnome- second can tumble over the 50-foot-high Upper Falls like homes date back to the 1920s and 1930s. Farther from melting snow in the spring, continuing over the along a road sign reads “45th Parallel, Halfway between smaller and tiered Lower Falls. Equator & North Pole.” And in the Traverse City area dotted with rolling cherry orchards, what might be some On the U.P.’s easternmost edges at Sault Ste. Marie, the of the country’s steepest and largest sand dunes are in control the dramatic 21-foot water level drop Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, a national park from Lake Superior to . More than 11,000 skirting Lake Michigan. vessels pass through Soo’s four locks every year, with the

MACKINAC ISLAND COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 21 Mushroom-like homes, Charlevoix, Lower Peninsula. Tiger statues at Comerica Baseball Park, Detroit.

If traveling downstate, a visit to Detroit is well worth planes, and locomotives. Key exhibits include the the effort as the city has been undergoing a dramatic refurbished bus in which civil rights pioneer Rosa Parks comeback. “Businesses pop up overnight; it’s crazy,” refused to give up her seat and former presidents’ cars, says tour guide Kim Rusinow with Destination Detroit including the very ones in which President Kennedy was Group Tours and Services. shot and in which President Reagan was driven to the hospital after his gunshot wound. Clusters of fresh produce, homemade pies, cheeses and Italian seasonings fill tables and vendor stalls at Other must-see museums include the Detroit Institute of bustling Eastern Market. Alongside the multi-towered Arts with is wall-sized Diego Rivera industrial murals in General Motors Renaissance Center, the Detroit RiverWalk a central atrium. The Motown Museum in two adjacent stretches 3.5 miles along the river with benches, public neighborhood homes offers a close-up look at the small art, parks, and a lighthouse. Shops, cafes, and residential studio where Motown greats like the Supremes and Four units now occupy what was once an industrial area. Tops got their start. The Stadium District has marked downtown’s resurgence. While much has been done in Detroit, challenges remain. Statues of clawing tigers hover over the entrances to In the 1950s, the population was close to 2 million, Comerica Park, home of the Detroit Tigers baseball team, down to about 700,000 now. More than 40 percent of just across the street from football’s Detroit Lions’ Ford the city’s 140 square miles is vacant land with 80,000 Field. The area’s yet greatest expansion comes with the abandoned homes. $1 billion-plus, 50-block redevelopment project known as The District Detroit, which includes the new Little “There’s no denying we’ve been slammed pretty hard,” Caesars Arena, now home to the Detroit Red Wings says Rusinow. “We have some challenges to overcome, hockey team and Pistons basketball. but we are an amazing comeback city.” Detroit’s institutions and museums seem to be better than ever. The Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation FOR MORE INFORMATION www.grandhotel.com • www.uptravel.com • www.sheplersferry.com houses prototype and original early 20th-century cars, www.mackinacferry.com • www.visitdetroit.com

MACKINAC ISLAND COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 22 Seeking SHELLS on SANIBEL The best of Natural Florida

SANIBEL COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 23 Sanibel beaches feature transparent turquoise water.

What’s so extraordinary about this 12-by-3-mile Gulf retreat is the local community’s solid commitment to Manatee wall sculpture at Ding Darling NWR. environmental education and conservation. Municipal and commercial concerns have worked cooperatively for decades to promote many eco-friendly experiences for Sanibel residents and visitors alike. Although Sanibel boasts a Story and photos by Paula Loehr grand array of restaurants, shops, and galleries, there’s no doubt that the island’s fabulous natural assets are its Where’s the top spot for sea shell collectors? Sanibel, an primary tourist attractions. offshore island near Fort Myers on Florida’s southwest coast, is a major contender. Sanibel’s shelling prospects Sanibel’s history is nearly as colorful as the shells, are legendary. A large continental shelf that extends vibrant blooms, and soaring birds that make the island into the Gulf of Mexico borders the island. When winter so lovely today. After a 2000-year occupation by the storms produce big waves, nearly 300 species of piled Calusa Indians, the mid-1800s brought an influx of up shells are swept from the ledge onto Sanibel’s sandy Spanish and English explorers and settlers. Commercial shores. Whether you explore the tide line on foot, fishing, ranching, and farming of crops like citrus, arrange a guided tour, or hire a boat captain to transport tomatoes, and pineapples shaped the island’s economy. you to secluded coves brimming with shells, the creative After a fierce 1926 hurricane wiped out agricultural process of seeking and discovering sea shells at Sanibel efforts, the launching of an auto ferry operation helped is always delightful. establish Sanibel as a vacation destination. Subsequent construction of causeway bridges provided easier island In addition to exquisite shells, Sanibel welcomes visitors access from the mainland. with miles of sandy beaches, mangrove-fringed bays, and sparkling turquoise waters. Pine forests, palm trees, When you first cross the bridges into Sanibel, be sure and tropical flowers brighten Sanibel’s biking and hiking to stop at the Chamber of Commerce’s Visitor Center to paths, kayak trails, and fishing spots. pick up maps and guidebooks. The center is a charming pastel-colored cottage on the right side of Periwinkle

SANIBEL COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 24 The colorful, welcoming Sanibel-Captiva Chamber Visitor Center is on the right side of Causeway Road as you drive onto Sanibel Island. Just some of the types of shells you can find while searching.

Way, just past the causeway as you arrive on the island. After departing the museum, continue west on San-Cap Road, turning right at J.N. Ding Darling National Wildlife Moving from east to west across Sanibel, here’s our list Refuge (NWR). On Sanibel, where 67 percent of the acreage of recommendations for best nature-oriented places and is protected, Ding Darling is the centerpiece of long- activities. standing conservation efforts. The refuge encompasses The circa 1884 Sanibel Lighthouse at the eastern tip of 7,608 acres of mangroves, sea grass beds, marshes, and the island (on Periwinkle Way) marks the convergence hardwood hammocks—safe spaces for migratory birds, land mammals, and marine life. Established in 1945, the of the Gulf of Mexico with San Carlos Bay. The light original Sanibel Refuge was dedicated to Jay Norwood originally signaled cattle-carrying ships when they “Ding” Darling in 1978. Darling, a Pulitzer prize-winning sailed from the bay to the Florida Keys or Cuba. Today’s political cartoonist and director of the U.S. Biological lighthouse visitors can cast a line from the fishing dock, Survey, was a winter resident of Sanibel. He was also build a sandcastle on the beach, enjoy a picnic, or view a steadfast environmentalist during the 1930s, long coastal wonders from a nature trail. before most people were concerned with ecology. Just west of the lighthouse on Sanibel-Captiva (San- The walls of the Visitor Center feature lively 3-D murals Cap) Road, Bailey-Matthews National Shell Museum is of sea turtles, manatees, and such. Topics like bird the only natural history museum in North American migrations and nesting patterns, the fragile refuge that’s devoted to sea shells. Displays showcase all sizes, ecosystem, and J.N. Ding Darling’s conservation work shapes, and colors of shells from around the world plus are represented through interactive exhibits and films. artistic renderings such as a shell bouquet and sailor’s valentines—intricate floral and heart-shaped designs Ding Darling NWR harbors 272 bird species including made completely with sea shells. There’s even a special ospreys, swooping pelicans, great blue herons, and wood learning lab just for kids. At Tank Talks, led by museum storks. Raccoons and river otters are two of 35 kinds of naturalists, you can learn practical shelling tips. And in mammals that live within the refuge. Among 60 types hands-on craft sessions, you can create shell animals or of amphibians and reptiles, you might spot a gopher jewelry. tortoise digging or an occasional toothy American crocodile.

SANIBEL COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 25 The bridges leading to Sanibel Island introduce incoming travelers to island-style views. Blue water views are everywhere on Ding Darling NWR’s Wildlife Drive.

National Shell Museum. Sanibel lighthouse is located at the eastern tip of the island.

Wildlife Drive is a one-way 4-mile NWR loop road that observing nesting shorebirds and sea turtles. Bowman’s winds along Sanibel’s pristine bay side. You can walk, offers sandy shores, clear waters, Australian pines, and ride a bike, drive your car or RV, or board a tram for a shady walking trails lined with yellow blooming cacti, narrated tour of the loop. The drive begins and ends sea grapes, and palms. Westerly strolls down the beach on San-Cap Road. Venture onto the drive in the early lead to seashell mounds that accumulate during stormy morning or late afternoon for optimal wildlife sightings. winter seasons. Shell caches at Bowman’s tend to dazzle The observation tower affords sweeping views of refuge even experienced shellers. lands and waters. On bright winter days, alligators soak up sunshine at the bay’s edge. Spring and autumn Blind Pass Beach and Captiva’s Turner Beach are just are the seasons for colorful migrating songbirds. Early west of Bowman’s at the northern tip of Sanibel—where summer is a good time to spot a bright pink roseate the glorious Gulf of Mexico and southern end of Captiva spoonbill in flight. Island are visible. After you cross the panoramic Blind Pass Bridge, the road becomes Captiva Drive. Public The NWR’s Tarpon Bay Recreation Area is tops for beach parks on both sides of the bridge are popular exploring Sanibel’s freshwater marshes. Rental kayaks, stops for surf fishing, shell hunting, bird watching, and canoes, stand up paddleboards, pontoon boats, and bikes photographing Florida’s splendid West Coast sunsets. are available. Nature & Sea Life Cruises help you scout out manatees and dolphins. Fishing charter participants From the vintage lighthouse on its eastern edge to scenic reel in the likes of sea trout, snook, and redfish. At Blind Pass Beach on its western end, Sanibel Island is a the Bailey Tract on Tarpon Bay Road, you might catch nature lover’s paradise that’s too good to miss. glimpses of alligators lurking, bobcats slinking, or marsh rabbits hopping. After exiting J.N. Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge onto San-Cap Road, continue northwest for a short distance and make an easy left turn toward Bowman’s FOR MORE INFORMATION Beach, an area preferred for swimming, shelling and www.sanibel-captiva.org

SANIBEL COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 26 RV REVIEW BY HOWARD J. ELMER

independent torsion-bar axles, super lube hubs and they Keystone Bullet Colt 172RBC ride on aluminum wheels. Considering where this trailer Lightweight and ready for adventure might go, the drain pipes are reasonably high under the body; my only concern is with the spare tire that hangs Keystone advertises its new 2018 Bullet Colt as being below the A-frame tongue. That I find too low. “ready for adventure.” A marketing tagline? Sure. But it’s also a clue as to its intended purpose—which is Construction of the trailer is mostly welded aluminum giving you a complete, but smaller base camp. One you walls on a steel frame. The wall covering is two-tone can tow right to where you want to do something. gelcoat fiberglass with a one-piece seamless fiberglass roof above. The windows are tinted and large with an The Colt is one of new wave of lightweight travel trailers automotive frameless look. The door is radiused and that are aimed at an active, adventuresome RVing features rubber seals. This unit is built for three-season demographic. So my first impression of the Bullet Colt usage—with R-7 insulation in the sidewalls and R-9 in is that it would make a useful companion for whatever the roof and floor. However the water and waste tanks outdoor passion I choose to pursue. are not heated so that precludes camping in consistent Weighing in at a GVWR of 3,900 pounds (which includes freezing temps; but with a 20K Btu furnace, it will be 1,100 pounds of cargo) the Colt can be towed by a wide comfortable in the shoulder seasons. For the summer variety of today’s vehicles. A truck is not necessary and heat, there is a powered vent fan and a roof-mounted this frees up many potential buyers from having to 13.5K AC unit. change their daily driver to accommodate the weight So I’ve said this is a smaller trailer that is also of the trailer. The growth of the mid-size SUV market lightweight—but it does have a single slideout which increases the number of models that would serve as a it uses to great interior benefit. This flush-floor slide good tow vehicle for this trailer every year. uses what’s called the Schwintek-slideout system. It’s The first look at the trailer shows off the classic teardrop built by Lippert Components and uses rail-mounted shape of the shell—a design feature that equals strength gears with electric motors, as you’d expect—however all and maximum space. You’ll also note that the wheels are the aluminum components are mounted in the slide-out mounted outboard of the body. This makes the trailer itself. This saves space and lets the box be secured at all more stable, saves space otherwise needed for inside four corners to prevent leaks. wheel wells and lifts the body—all the better to traverse The entire kitchen is nicely cubed into this slide, making rougher terrain. The 15-inch radial tires are attached to it accessible when closed. When open, though, it makes

RV REVIEW COAST TO COAST SPRING MAGAZINE 2018 27 for a central galley and offers up good floor space. The for a trailer of just 20 feet. It has a full corner shower kitchen has a deep counter with a glass-topped two- stall, plenty of room around the Thetford toilet and a burner stove next to a deep stainless-steel sink with freestanding cabinet and sink. The other floorplan setup a gooseneck faucet. A sliding window with mini-blind creates a “wet” bath design. This much smaller space sheds light on the food-prep area. All this sits on top of has features that can get wet when the smaller shower is the storage drawers and a large cabinet. The two-way, in use. However, in this floorplan the dinette seats four, three-cubic-foot refrigerator is also stainless steel as is not two—it also moves the kitchen to the rear of the the built-in convection microwave above it. Turn 180 trailer where the counter space is doubled. degrees and you’re facing the two-seat dinette. By the way—the interior height is 6 feet 6 inches. That dinette The trailer is equipped with a 55-amp charger. All the key table also doubles as the base for a single bed—or take appliances are two-way, including the water heater, so it outside to set up, it does that too. being plugged in is no problem. But then we have been talking about adventure and that often takes you off the In fact, the designers of the Colt assume you’ll spend grid. The Colt has a solar prep package that accepts a Go considerable time outside of the trailer and so have power solar charging system. Its flexible panels fit flush provided a number of features for that purpose, such as on the roof. But for more traditional camping there is a exterior LED lights, an LP quick-connect for the barbecue, pair of 12V house batteries, 20-pound propane tank and exterior speakers that run off a Bluetooth stereo, an plenty of water, perfect for weekend boondocking. outdoor shower,120V plug and a Thule awning to cover that alfresco living space. There is also a pass-through With its natural appeal to first-timers, a trailer like the storage at the front of the trailer accessible from either Colt is a great way to get you started on a lifetime of side. This is below the 60x74-inch Queen Bed. outdoor wonder. It’s worth mentioning that the Colt has two different floorplans with two very different intentions. They both 2018 KEYSTONE BULLET COLT 172RBCT fit in the same shell and use the same single slide-out. The best way to label the difference between the two DRY WEIGHT: 2890 pounds FRESHWATER: 36 gallons though is to state that one model (the one I tested) CARRYING CAPACITY: 1010 pounds BLACK WATER: 30 gallons would be home to two people, while the other would GVWR: 3900 pounds GREY WATER: 30 gallons support four. The key difference between is the bathroom LENGTH: 20 feet LPG: 20 pounds size. This bath space in my tester is large, particularly HEIGHT: 9 feet 6 inches

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