DIRECTORY Directory

BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE CONTENTS For more accommodation reviews and recommendations by Lonely Planet authors, Accommodation 285 check out lonelyplanet.com/hotels. You’ll Activities 288 find the true, insider lowdown on the best Business Hours 292 places to stay. Reviews are thorough and Children 292 independent. Best of all, you can book Climate Charts 293 online. Courses 293 Customs Regulations 293 Dangers & Annoyances 293 prices were accurate at the time of writing, Discount Cards 294 expect increased prices. Embassies & Consulates 294 Festivals & Events 295 Camping Food 295 For many people, spending a night under the Gay & Lesbian Travellers 295 stars – or at least under canvas – is a high- Holidays 295 light of a trip to Jordan. One popular option Insurance 296 is to sleep in a traditional ‘house of hair’ at Internet Access 296 a Bedouin camp in Wadi Rum. Facilities in Legal Matters 297 these goat-wool tents are basic but it’s a great Maps 297 experience – see p272 for details. Money 297 Another beautiful area for camping Photography & Video 298 is Dana Nature Reserve (open March to Post 299 November). Intended for those who are Shopping 299 happy to pay extra to wake up in the wilds, Smoking 300 the tents fill up quickly. Book in advance Solo Travellers 301 through Wild Jordan (p95 ). Telephone 301 Camping with your own tent is permit- Time 301 ted in a few places in southern Jordan, Toilets 301 especially in the desert surrounding Wadi Tourist Information 302 Rum. Camping ‘off piste’ in the north is Travellers with Disabilities 302 more problematic, not least because you’ll Visas 302 have competition for the best spots from Women Travellers 304 the Bedouin and it’s surprisingly hard to Work 305 find a secluded place to pitch a tent. Bringing a tent to save money on accom- ACCOMMODATION modation isn’t cost effective as camping is Jordan has accommodation to suit most rarely possible without your own transport. budgets, although away from the main Besides, cheap rooms are plentiful in areas tourist centres there’s limited choice. Jor- close to the major sites of interest. dan is so compact, however, that most attractions can easily be visited in day trips Hotels from the main towns. From opulent pleasure palaces on the Dead Prices are highest during the two peak Sea to eco-friendly lodges in the nature re- seasons, which are from September to Oc- serves, Jordan offers some interesting hotel tober and from March to mid-May. Holiday accommodation. Reservations are recom- weekends are also peak times in Aqaba and mended during peak seasons, especially at at the Dead Sea resorts. the Dead Sea Resorts, and for midrange and High inflation and increased tourism are top-end hotels in Aqaba, Wadi Musa and contributing to escalating prices. Although the nature reserves. DIRECTORY available inatleastsomeof theirrooms. have bothcoolingandheatingappliances ahungryhikercan set upforaweek. breakfastsThe buffet-style attop-endhotels hummus, cious assortmentof locallymadeyoghurt, inbudget cheese hotelsprocessed to adeli- a humbleroundof bread with atriangleof Breakfast stated. less otherwise variesfrom inside frontcover) includebreakfast, un- mon, but mostbudget places have ‘triples’ Dorm roomsarequieter seasons. notcom- Prices are negotiable,especially during private bathroomcostingaround JD20/25. roomswith a singles/doubles, with lessstark homely. Mostare spotlesslyclean. andbasic tosimpleand and varyfromstark Budget roomsare available inmosttowns BUDGET 286 Hotels indicated asoffering ‘air-con’ Accommodation pricesinthisbook(see Private fromJD8/16 for roomsstart PRACTICALITIES DIRECTORY ••Accommodation DIRECTORY Newspapers&Magazines Electricity Weights&Measures TV Radio cover foraconversion table. metric system. Seetheinsidefront Try 99.6FM forpopularhits. ison1323AM.the BBCWorldService include from Lebanon’s Tribune The (JD2.250). (JD2), The Times (250 fils).Imported newspapers include able, includingthedaily several English-languagepapersavail- sockets.and Britishthree-pronged some placesuseEuropean two-pronged variety,althougha localtwo-pronged is 220V,50AC. are Sockets mostlyof midrange and top-end hotels.midrange andtop-end and Al-Jazeera canbefoundinmost lite stationssuchastheBBC,CNN,MTV programs inFrench andEnglish.Satel- (JD2.900). Channel2ofJordan broadcasts TV fuul Jordanison96.3FMRadio and Le Monde (JD1.250) hasaregional (JD1.250) section Time (JD4), (JD4), andolives inmidrange hotels. Jordan’s supplyelectricity (JD2.700) and (JD2.700) International Herald (JD2.700) and (JD2.700) Daily Star Guardian Weekly Jordan usesthe Jordan Times . Magazines There are Newsweek Le Figaro

by international chains, but theyinvariably checking in. cept credit cards,butit’sbesttoaskbefore Many midrange hotels are toac- starting days. especially ifyou’re forseveral staying doubles. Negotiationisusuallypossible, able hotwater andaprivate bathroom. inwinter),heater telephone, (essential reli- suching satellite asCNN),fridge, stations (sometimesfeatur-usually have colourTV Petra) andAqaba. Roomsinmidrange hotels tion inAmman,Madaba, (near WadiMusa towns you’re likely tovisit,withagoodselec- ordered meal. anevening beaskedeven tojointhefamilyiftheyhave home cookingforbreakfast andguestsmay Most family-runhotels offer somekindof interest. organise theirowntours. Someeven in catching of transportoradvisingonsights local knowledge andcanprovide assistance ing theirguests.Theowners are afountof owned byfamilieswhotake prideinwelcom- money inJordan.Theyare often privately Midrange hotels offer thebestvaluefor MIDRANGE cash inJordaniandinars. the heater isworkingbefore checking in. winter inJordanisbitterly coldsoensure rooms thatare stiflinghotinsummer;and avoidthat canbenoisyatnight; windowless places are located above shopsandcafés There are noyouthhostels inJordan. in someplacesforaboutJD3perperson. ontheroof sleep In summeryoucaneven the costof accommodationconsiderably. ask toshare withothertravellers, cutting (rooms withthree beds),which youcan bookings forthe next partof yourtrip. where youcanhire acarandorganise hotel agency withintheir shopping arcades from parts of Mosthave theMiddleEast. atravel they live uptotheircounterparts in other rival, marblefoyers andluxurious rooms, welcomedrinksonar-With liveried staff, see Aqaba (fortheDeadSea, opposite ). (nearPetra)in Amman,WadiMusa and There are someexcellenttop-endhotels TOP END Most of thetop-end hotels are owned ataboutJD30/45forsingles/ Prices start There isat leastonemidrange hotel in Payment tobemadein usuallyneeds manybudget Some thingstoconsider: lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY 287 DIRECTORY •• Accommodation Short-term rentals are available in Aqaba, available are rentals Short-term It costs about JD200 to JD400 per month JD200 to JD400 per It costs about where prices for a furnished two-bedroom prices for a furnished two-bedroom where startapartment with a kitchen at JD15 per night in the low season and JD25 in the peak season. can apartments in Aqaba Most one week, for a minimum of only be rented the in however, and must be pre-booked peak season. for a furnished apartment in a reasonable in a reasonable apartment for a furnished if it’s unfurnished. Amman; a little less of area apartment or small houseA furnished in a little as is possible for as less salubrious area this price per month, but for JD100 to JD200 everythingdon’t expect to work. Resorts only one night’s luxury during If you have to stayyour visit to Jordan, plan in one of ). Not only p176 (see resorts the Dead Sea these state-of-the-art are worth a hotels visit in their own right, but they also offer the best access to the Dead Sea – an area ac- is next to no alternative there where can resort one commodation. Residents of the neighbouring also use the facilities of several nights’ of care can take which hotels, advertising places to rent are often displayed displayed often are to rent places advertising shop windows. or in residence ( p189 ) For those who want their night’s sleep to matter, p189 ( ( p241 ) With the rose-tinted famous sandstone typical of Petra’s p241 ( ( p176 ) While floating in one of the infinity pools, with a carrot cocktail p176 ( ( p272 ) The sky’s the limit for those who stay in one of the Bedouin camps in Wadi ) The sky’s the limit for those who stay p272 ( ( p210 ) Found at the end of a long, hard day’s hike Reserve, through the Dana Nature this p210 (

landscape spread beneath the lintels of this unusual hotel, you won’t mind being a half-hour drive beneath the lintels of this unusual hotel, you won’t landscape spread from the entrance local village houses, is part of the accommodation, in renovated nature to the site. Indeed, the sequestered of its unique appeal. in one hand and a jet of water massaging the other, it’s easy to see why the spa at the heartin one hand and a jet of water massaging the other, it’s easy to of this resort is billed as the best in the Middle East. Begin in the primordial mud at the Dead Sea shore-side and work your way up to heaven in the hotel’s spangled-ceiling bar. St George’s Church Pilgrim House, Madaba Church Pilgrim St George’s Sofitel Taybet Zaman, Tayyibeh village Zaman, Tayyibeh Taybet Sofitel Mövenpick Resort & Spa, Dead Sea Resort & Spa, Dead Sea Mövenpick Feinan Lodge, Dana Feinan With its monastic appearance and vegetarian grail than guesthouse. lodge is more supper served by candlelight (electric not used), this eco-lodge lights are an experience offers If hiking that hovers on the sublime. is not your thing, you can always cheat and drive round the long way – at the risk of losing much of the magic. TOP FIVE PLACES TO STAY TO STAY TOP FIVE PLACES drawn from all are following high five The don’t necessarily cost top dollar. In Jordan, top beds chosen because of the uniqueness of the experi- been of accommodation and have categories ence they offer. Bedouin camp, Wadi Rum there’s no better place to head for than this ascetic guesthouse, located beside St George’s no there’s Church, home of Mada- used he’ll happily explain how the guesthouse profits are Innocent is in residence, ba’s famous mosaic map. If Father to benefit local underprivileged boys. Rum. Unfurl your mat under the stars and let singing youths, together with the snortsRum. Unfurl your mat under the stars and let singing youths, together of grumbling camels and the lull you to sleep. whistle of mint tea over the fire, Independent travellers can often negoti- can often travellers Independent A tax and service 26% (see of charge

In Amman, the best places to check for apart- to check In Amman, the best places the accom- are ments and houses to rent English-language modation listings in the noticeboards centre cultural newspapers, noticeboard at Books@café ), and the p91 ( a useful is also noticeboard ). There p109 ( Jordan of the University of in the office stays, ). For longer p293 Language Center ( Shmeisani, wander around the suburbs of or between the 1st and 5th circles: signs Rental Accommodation Rental Accommodation reflect the local character of Jordan, with Jordan, of the local character reflect for design, options interior Arabian-style high-quality Middle Eastern dining, shops selling book- handicrafts and fine Jordanian English language a selectionshops with of titles on Jordan. Outside peak seasons rate. a walk-in ate (when booking is essential),and holidays room for a mid- you may find a world-class price. range ) is added to the bill in top-end hotels, p298 to seealthough it’s worth checking if this been in a discounted included has already in all accepted cards are credit Major rate. top-end hotels. lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY 2058050; www.royalaeroclub.com) to sixmonths for allpossiblebureaucratic forms, whichcomplete cantake security up project leaders mustobtainpermits and placement. Inorder togainaccesssites, likely topay afee foryour volunteer need youwill most in anexpedition;andsecond, to planwellaheadifyouwantparticipate very things: first, important youwillneed chaeological fieldwork, keep inmindtwo of digs. these tograb aspotonone it’s nottoodifficult an extensive backgroundinarchaeology, of beingexcavated. Even ifyoudon’thave of sites acrossthecountryare intheprocess very real possibilityasasignificantnumber of theancients.InJordan,this isinfacta pecially ifyouuncover thematerial remains can beanincredibly rewarding activity,es- ing like anIndianaJonesmovie, it though Real-life archaeological fieldworkisnoth- Digs Archaeological The Sports Aero ing &Snorkelling chapter ( p277 ). theDiv- scuba divingandsnorkelling, see adventures.fantastic Forinformationon without tryingatleastacoupleof these an archaeological dig.Don’theadhome piecingtogetherpainstakingly thepaston and climbinginstunninglandscapesto fromhikingactivities intheMiddleEast, Jordan offers someof thebestoutdoor ACTIVITIES of city. classtoJordan’ssecond notch restaurants, theyare bringingatouch ofmultiple pools,gymsandaselection top- access tothecalmwaters of theRedSea, pick andIntercontinental chains. With including theflagshipresorts of theMöven- resorts inandaroundAqaba ( p256 ) – local nightlife. worth of entertainment inanarea withno 288 weather. from onetotwohours dependingonthe a minimumof twopeopleand ridestake looning costsaboutJD130perperson for the dramaticsceneryof WadiRum.Bal- hot-air ballooning(byarrangement) over ing, skydiving, gliding, paragliding andeven If you’re interested inconductingar- there areApart fromtheDeadSea, also DIRECTORY ••Activities DIRECTORY Royal Aero Sports ClubofJordan Sports Royal Aero offers microlight-

( x 0 3- field-work opportunities in Jordan and the Middle East. inJordanandtheMiddle field-work opportunities annuallistingof www.bu.edu/acor) Prepares anextensive and historyoftheNearEast. thestudyofculture .org) Thisorganisationsupports Research SchoolsofOriental American Research forOriental Center American crease your chances of landingaspot. projects), in- letthemknow–it’llcertainly or worked onotherdigs(orsimilargroup or drafting),have travelled intheregion If youhave specialskills(like photography as there isstrongcompetitionforopenings. projecttact leaders, besure yourself tosell in Jordanianarchaeology. Whenyoucon- list belowof variousorganisations involved we’ve yoursearch, includeda help facilitate where andwhentheyare place. To taking out whoisconductingwhich digs,and tojoinadig. effort worththenating discipline,it’scertainly simply wanttogainexposure tothisfasci- if youare anaspiringarchaeologist, oryou of positionsavailable. volunteer However, vated amateurs, there are alimited number are happy to supportenergetic andmoti- niceties. Furthermore, whilearchaeologists For starters, doyourhomeworkandfind WEB JORDANIAN ARCHAEOLOGY ONTHE Virtual Resources Project Karak Petra: The Great Temple Excavation Madaba Plains Project Franciscan Archaeological Institute EastoftheJordan .vkrp.org) historical study of Karak Castle.historical studyofKarak dedicated tothearchaeological and regions. vations intheMadabaandMtNebo /macdonald.pdf) plains.org/hesban) excavation oftheGreat Temple ofPetra. /petra) (www.brown.edu/departments/anthropology .php) (http://198.62.75.5/opt/xampp/custodia/01fai and sites oftheHebrew scriptures. ton MacDonald’s book ontheterritories Tell Hesban ontheMadabaPlains. Andrews University’s excavationat Presents exca- on detail exquisite The historyofBrownUniversity’s Acomprehensive website Hasthefulltext ofBur- An overview of Anoverview

(www.asor.org/pubs

(www.madaba lonelyplanet.com (www.asor (ACOR;

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DIRECTORY 289 published published Jordan: Walks, ). These books Treks & Climbs and the more condensed condensed and the more DIRECTORY •• Activities Walking in Jordan Walking Several longer routes are also possible also possible Several are routes longer The best places for hiking in Jordan The best places for hiking in Jordan Most wadis are unsafe during winter during winter unsafe Most wadis are Although finding reliable maps is a maps is a Althoughreliable finding Hikes in Jordan take longer, and take take and longer, in Jordan take Hikes with a tent. In particular, Dana to Petra is In particular, Dana to Petra with a tent. you that takes trek an excellent four-day Wadi Ghuweir and through Wadi Feinan, . p290 text, Also see the boxed Little Petra. are Ajloun Nature Reserve ( p135 ), Dana ), Dana p135 Reserve Nature ( Ajloun are ) and Wadi Mujib p207 ReserveNature ( most trails re- ) where p180 ReserveNature ( DIY options, there For more a guide. quire ) and p230 ( in Petra some exciting hikes are ). Bedouin guides also p270 in Wadi Rum ( along the old cara- accompanied hikes offer that link thesevan routes two spectacular , for p12 text, places. Also see the boxed hikes. Jordan’s top five-day (November to February) due to the danger due to the danger to February) (November away washed often are Paths flash floods. of Bear frequently. in change and so routes (GPS) System mind that Global Positioning may not function units and mobile phones between canyon walls. steep problem, there are some good books de- some good are problem, there tailing (see routes the most popular Books, both maps and books ). It’s best to buy below in Jordan is abroad as their availability sporadic. BOOKS Howard and Di Tay- Tony British climbers explor- their lives of spent much lor have and ing and mapping the hiking, trekking rock-climbing possibilities in Jordan. Their books include the detailed in Wadi Rum in Wadi Rum, Walks & Scrambles also have They in Jordan by Al-Kutba. produced the highly usable Climbs & Canyons, Treks, Caves, in the by Interlink by Cicerone (published USA as in Jordan. only sporadically available are more out of you, than you’d imagine – you’d imagine – you, than out of more walking in sand is going up- is not easy, nor time to sun. Allow plenty of hill in the hot with passers- the view, chat and enjoy linger shade during the by or simply sit in the the day. heat of en route: most hiking in Jordan is an unso- in Jordan most hiking en route: ad hoc affairphisticated, through passing is often the welcome where small villages the weather. as warm as runs (CBRL; Cycling As- (AIA; www 06-5355000; www for help with (www.bib-arch.org) (www.bib-arch.org) x (www.arts.usyd.edu.au/departs (Map p87 ; Biblical Archaeological Review, Archaeological Biblical (www.cycling-jordan.com)

Dana Nature ReserveDana Nature has a guided desert

.ju.edu.jo) The archaeology department at this Amman- based university is a good contact point. Produces the magazine Produces the magazine and lists volunteer openings. archaeological tours www.cbrl.org.uk) British institute www.cbrl.org.uk) Academy–sponsored in Amman & Jerusalem. centres with research route-planning and see p315 for more for more p315 and seeroute-planning information. 10 mountain bikes are cycling trail and there (see Lodge Cycling, from Feinan for hire p209 ).

Hiking is an exhilarating activity in Jor- the pristine and of dan, not least because the landscape and the his- varied quality of torical allusions that underlie almost every network of path. Don’t expect an organised holes with signposts and watering routes, Hiking

There are some great places to cycle in places to cycle in some great are There Jordan, but it’s not what one could call a cycling involves Most developed sport here. parts, bringing your own bicycle and spare along roads with and sorting out a route too hot or too cold amenities that are few If none of for comfort for half the year. this fazes you, then contact the Cycling sociation

The camel is no longer a common form a common form longer camel is no The for Bedouin; transport of now prefer most truck – in fact, it’s the ubiquitous pick-up not unusual to see a Bedouin transporting For a Toyota. of a prized camel in the back expe- however, one truly rewarding visitors, costs about JD30 This rience is a camel trek. rather choose a mounted for two hours: authentic than a walking guide for a more Bedouin Enterprising happy experience. are to six-night camel on three- visitors to take (see or Petra from Wadi Rum to Aqaba treks trips. ), as well as shorter p269 Camel Treks Camel Treks University of Sydney University of Jordan Council for British Research in the Levant Biblical Archaeological Society Archaeological Institute America of or- archaeology largest and oldest The .archaeological.org) ganisation in America for information. resource is a valuable lonelyplanet.com /archaeology) This prestigious Australian university runs a Australian university /archaeology) This prestigious field projecthighly reputable at Pella. DIRECTORY haal Encounters andcanyoning, that includeabseiling guided hike uptoJD85forafull-daytrek. varyfromJD15foratwo-hour tice. Rates arrange treks long-distance ifgiven priorno- hikes inJordan’snature andcanalso reserves 1215, Amman11941) (RSCN; Map The HIKING AGENCIES 290 bringing benefitstolocal communities. impact andminimising environmental Jordan’s natural wonders accessiblewhile is recommended. Theiraim istomake to find. alonemake insights itworththetrouble tal Jordan;itsculturalandenvironmen- Central king andcanyoningroutes inthewadisof Rift king &Canyoninginthe JordanianDead Sea Although it can be difficult tofind, itcanbedifficult Although For individualorgroupadventure hikes ofKarak. 11km north ofthetrail,butit’shardtofindwithoutaguide;turn-offis tothestart Highway fromtheKing’s drive one-hour oralternativelyyoucanjustdothefirst90minutesthroughdramaticnarrowgorge.It’sa ends attheDeadSea, The full hike andupper(eastern)stretches especiallyonFridays. areThe hotsprings popularwithdaytrippers, Check trail regulations at the Hammamat Ma’in spa. Check trailregulations attheHammamatMa’in wildflowersandisthebesttimetovisit. wonderful brings dam.Spring on toWadiRayyan and and2000-year-oldolivetrees, downacanyonto50mwaterfall Ajloun. Thetraildescends700mpastaspring ( from DanaNature Reserve p205 ). oryoucanstart dramatic geologicalformations. ThetrailisaccessedfromnearShobakviaasteepdownhilldrive, ofthetrail.Thefulltrek endsnearSafi. ing scenery.There iscurrently apolicecheckalongtheroadtostart andchang- (including ahotwaterfall) inwater,througha waterplaygroundofpoolsandwaterfalls downhill, often and TonyHoward’s local advicebefore headingoffonahike. andyoushouldalwayschecktheweatherforecastearly ApriltoOctober, forrainandget and trailschangeyeartodueseasonalflooding. are Hikes onlysafe fromlate Marchor accessed fromdifferent roads).Moreover, isdifficult(there route-finding are nodefinedtrails) at thebeginning andpickyouup (generallyadifferent attheendofyourhike locationand Tours, p314 Agencies, andHiking below matic wadis(seasonallydryriverbeds). You’llneedsomehelparranging inawadi(see ahike ), largely becauseyou todropyouoff need transport areJordan’s mostexcitinghikes poolsandpalmtrees viathelushgorges, waterfalls, ofitsdra- WADI WALKING Wadi ZarqaMa’in Wadi Yabis Wadi Numeira Wadi Hasa Wadi Ghuweir WadibinHammad Theupperwadiisonlyaccessedviaa1.5mropeladder.and waterfalls. by Itai Haviv byItai numeroustrek- contains DIRECTORY ••Activities DIRECTORY Royal Society for the Conservation ofNature Royal SocietyfortheConservation The followingare Jordan’sbestwadioptionsandtheroutes are fullydescribedinDiTaylor p94 ; This moderate two-day, 24kmtrek runsthroughoneofthemostbeautifulwadisinJordan.It’sall Thismoderatetwo-day, x This day-hike (12km, 6-7hrs) is accessed from Hallaweh village, 15km from Ishfateena, north of (12km,6-7hrs)isaccessedfromHallawehvillage,15kmIshfateena,north Thisday-hike

offers awiderange of guided ( This full-day hike (12km, 7hrs) from Mansoura (nearShobak)toWadiFeinan (12km,7hrs)fromMansoura youpast Thisfull-dayhike takes 06- POBox 4616523; www.rscn.org.jo; This wadi starts 10km north ofLot’sCave( 10kmnorth Thiswadistarts p181 ) and quicklyleadstoadramatic x This hike (4km, 4hrs) runs from the hot-spring resort of Hammamat Ma’in to the Dead Sea. totheDeadSea. ofHammamatMa’in resort (4km,4hrs)runsfromthehot-spring Thishike 06-5866607; www.terhaal.com) A 10km day-hike from a set of hot springs to the Dead Sea Highway, 6km north of Mazra’a. ofMazra’a. 6kmnorth Highway, totheDeadSea fromasetofhotsprings A10kmday-hike Jordan: Walks,Treks, Caves, Climbs,Canyons Trek- Ter-

.desertguidescompany.com) jordan.com) skills required foreach hike orscramble. JD30toJD100, dependingonthe between vary(andareeither side. Rates negotiable) ices are onoffer toavoid on disappointment make sure youunderstand exactlywhatserv- guideindependently, you engage aBedouin spective visitorcentre (see p220 and p251 ). If Wadi Rumistoarrange there- onethrough Jordan. venture hikes, treks andclimbsthroughout e p314 . see person including transport andguide. for dayhikes generally atJD25per start of theAdventure JordanHikingClub.Costs Wadi Yabis, WadiHasa andbeyond,aspart trips forexpatsandlocalstoplaces such as March hiking toOctoberheleads weekly Desert GuidesCompany Desert Yamaan Safady The bestwaytoorganise atrek inPetra or For alist of general agencies overseas, isof thebesthikingguides.From .

( x also specialises inad- alsospecialises 077-7222101; www.adventure

( x siq lonelyplanet.com 06-5527230; www with pools DIRECTORY 291 , dubbed , dubbed Hash House Harri- DIRECTORY •• Activities is otherwise known as a Turk- (http://hashemitehhh.googlepages.com)

Women are welcome, usually at separate Women are The local branch of the of The local branch For more information go to www.rum information go For more Women are likely to feel most comforta- most to feel likely are Women times to men; call ahead so that a female times to men; call ahead so that a female See can be organised. attendant the boxed accounts , for personal p103 and p292 texts, by the authors! ers Turkish Baths muscles, the for aching antidote A great hammam in Amman, are ish bath. The best baths Wadi Musa and Aqaba and prices Madaba, At JD20, including a massage. around are it out in a dry- places you’ll sweat the better bath and then be scrubbed or wet-steam olive-oil soaped with with woollen gloves, on a hot and laid to rest soap, massaged marble platform. guides.com and www.wadirum.net. Running can combine a trip Long-distance runners Dead Sea Mara- the annual to Jordan with thon. Starting 7th Circle in Amman, at the in (individually or run a 50km it involves to the Dead Seaa relay) at Amman Beach, as well as a half marathon, a 10km fun run 4km. In case you think and a kids run of mad lo- that this is the preserve a few of cals, bear in mind that around 1000 run- part annually. The race generally take ners place on the secondtakes Friday in April so if you fancy running below zero, check (www.deadseamarathon website the official .com) for details. Rock Climbing Rock Climbing and some challenging offers Wadi Rum most accessi- rock climbing. The unique detailed in the are ble and popular climbs Tony Howard by excellent books written ). Guides p289 (see Books, and Di Taylor necessary, need and you’ll to bring are for more p271 See your own climbing gear. details. ble at Hammamat Ma’in, which has an area area has an which Ma’in, Hammamat ble at women, and unaccompanied for families which at Al-Himma, baths and the public times solely for ladies. special allocates ‘drinkers with a running problem’ on their with a running problem’ ‘drinkers Monday local runs each organise website, from Amman. 03-2033508, 077-7471960; 03-2033508, 077-7471960; x ( is a professional camel- professional is a

Rum Horses

There are also opportunities to ride in are There Another good time is from late Septem-from late Another good time is to March, Rain November from occurs

Hot Springs Hot Springs thermal hot-water of dozens Jordan boasts about is usually the water springs, where contains35°C to 45°C. The water potas- sium, magnesium and calcium, among health ben- other minerals with reputed efits. The most popular spring is Hamma- ). p177 near the Dead Seamat Ma’in, (see Other popular spots around Jordan include Afra, Burbita and Hammamat Hammamat (see the King’s Highway near Tafila west of ), and Al-Himma springs, close to the p205 northern border with Israel and the Pales- ). p145 (see tinian Territories

and horse-trekking agency located on the located agency and horse-trekking Rum. road to Wadi approach Several the Bedouin of Petra. the hills above will saddle you up at Petra horse owners but again, prior horse, with a spirited horse riding is necessary and of knowledge ). p237 don’t expect a helmet (see Horse Riding Horse Riding deserts the around It’s possible to explore Arabian stallions, though Wadi Rum on for experienced riders this recommended only. WHEN TO GO WHEN TO GO is the middle of The best time for hiking April), when it’s to late spring (mid-March finished, flow- have not too hot, the rains full. Always blooming and wells are are ers setting out local conditions before check throughoutas flash floods can occur the wadis impassable. spring and may make dry but not when it’s ber to mid-October hot. excessively or camp in to hike making it dangerous can sweepnarrow wadis as flash floods un- cold the hills. It’s also very heralded out of for camping. WHAT TO BRING TO BRING WHAT Lightweight and long-sleeved trousers for and best sensitive culturally shirts are essentials Other the terrain. hat, include a (flashlight) bottle, torch water sunscreen, Lightweightand insect walking repellent. sandals with hiking together ideal, boots are walks. bag for wet wadi and a watertight lonelyplanet.com www.desertguides.com) DIRECTORY hours are greatly reduced. in winter. earlier ment departmentsandbanksclose ness hours inJordan.Many govern- sights, givesthe followingtable anideaof busi- to from office acrossthecountry,but office Opening timesvaryfromtowntotown,and BUSINESS HOURS 292 During the month of Ramadan, working During themonthof Ramadan, before youleave. flesh totheoutsideair,you’llfeel sorejuvenated appointment yournext thatyou’llbebooking steaming water, poolsofindistinct theminute youexposeyournewlyscrapedandkneaded don’t letit.The abouttheexperienceisthatmomentyoustep bizarre outofthe part laugh. sureenough soaponthepolishedmarbletilestomake you aren’t theonehavinglast to signalthatenoughisenough. independently ofthescalp)thesetowelscanbeusedasaflagsurrender bybattered bathers baths: inemergencies withoutwarningortwoearsare (aswhenanosehairisplucked lifted on bothsidesofthefluffywhite towelshandedoutsothoughtfullyintheantechamber ofthe oflaughter.ping, accompaniedbysnorts asenseofhumourseemstobepre Infact, requisite you: more often theyinvite analmostsadisticaccelerationofpummelling,scrubbingandslap- exfoliation countsasoneoftheirmanytalents. ofthebodyyoudidn’tknowhad. find parts depending onyoursex)couldeasilyretrain asSumowrestlers andyoucanrely onthemto with youatthelocal If youthoughtfelt sore after thenjustwaituntilyouseewhattheydo alongday’shike, cnrs destination relevant See daily 2-4pm 8am-6pm centres Sat-Thu Visitor 8am-3pm offices Tourist Someclose (markets) Sat-Thu Souqs Sat 9am-8pm businesses Some open Shops & Sun-Thu 8am-6pm Post offices changers Money- 9pm-9pm Someclose daily Sat-Thu departments 8am-3pm Government Banks 8.30am-3pm Place Times Days Sun-Thu Notes OPENING TIMES BATHING WITHBRUISERSINJORDAN’SHAMMANS DIRECTORY ••BusinessHours DIRECTORY Fri until2pm Fri If, by now, the prospect ofbeingbulliedinthebathisputtingyouoffideaaltogether,If, bynow,theprospect Don’t trytostrutoffwithattitude,though,norlookbackinanger,asthere isalways ‘no’and‘pleasedon’t’–uttered phraseslike Don’t expect ineitherArabicorEnglish–tohelp ofextreme they’llremoveIn fact, ofthebodyyoudidn’tknowhad,asart parts 9m8m daily 9am-8pm hammam (Turkish bath).The large, muscularattendants (Turkish (maleorfemale, Petra, andchecking outthe ostriches and riding a camel atWadiRum ordonkey at ing castlesatKarak, Shobak andAjloun, explor-Aqaba, snorkelling in the RedSea, playing onthebeach orhotel poolsat Sea, swings, thenovelty of floatinginthe Dead attractions forchildren beyondplayground side AmmanandAqaba. able nappies(diapers) are hardtofindout- milk. dairy productsare madewithpasteurised stomach complaints), andcheck thatfresh (themostlikelywashed salads source of mineral water, avoid fresh peeled fruitand extreme heat of summer,sticktobottled elling withchildren asuccess:avoid the shops, hotels andrestaurants. andinfeel welcome,especiallyonbuses their waytohelpyouormake yourfamily their youngsters here. People willgooutof people –especiallyassofew visitors bring they’ll invite plentyof withlocal contact Jordan. childrenEast, are universally adored in In commonwiththerest of theMiddle CHILDREN Although thereAlthough are very few designated Powdered milkisavailable, butdispos- A few precautions canhelpmake trav- Children are ice-breakers instant and en Walker Jenny lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY 293 06- x ( 06-4636147; www.britishcouncil.org x ( DIRECTORY Charts •• Climate 100 75 50 25 0 100 75 50 25 0 The best general advice for travellers is is for travellers advice The best general Two incidents in Amman in recent Two incidents in Amman in recent Duty-free allowances for ‘nonresidents’ allowances for ‘nonresidents’ Duty-free 5355000, ext 2370; www.ju.edu.jo; University of Amman) Offers tailormade courses with private instruction for to students’ special individuals and small groups, geared Ratesinterests. per group, for groups of US$50 per hour are one to six students. to be vigilant in the cities without being to be vigilant in the cities without being paranoid (by cooperating, for example, foyers). in hotel with security checks a stridently political na- of Conversations with casual should also be avoided ture acquaintances. times (the 2005 Al-Qaeda suicide bombing of and the 2007 shooting hotels, three of ) mo- p95 tourists by a lone gunman – see peaceful Jordan’s mentarily cast doubt over in terms at stake With so much reputation. however, everyeffort revenue, is being of the made by Jordanian authorities to ensure within the country. travellers of safety (tourists) are: 200 cigarettes or 25 cigars or or 25 cigars 200 cigarettes (tourists) are: for each JD3.75 of tobacco (a charge 200g of up to a maximum additional 200 cigarettes, JD2.91 of (a charge alcohol 2000); 1L of of a maximum up to additional litre, for each perfume for amount of 4L); a ‘reasonable of use’;personal up to the value of and gifts US$150. JD50 or the equivalent of DANGERS & ANNOYANCES local to visit and, despite safe Jordan is very dissatisfaction with Iraqi immigration, you the turmoil any hint of to feel unlikely are countries. neighbouring of CUSTOMS REGULATIONS CUSTOMS REGULATIONS as are prohibited, Drugs and weapons are pornographic films, tapes (cassettes) and magazines. COURSES COURSES Cooking and worthwhile about the fun For details text, see the boxed Petra, cooking course in p84 . Language enough For those by the Arab enchanted there learn the language, to world to want Amman: some opportunities in are British Council in touch with a private/jordan.htm) Can put individuals tutor. University Center of Jordan Language mm mm by by Average Average Max/Min Max/Min 0 0 4 3 2 1 4 3 2 1 Rainfall Rainfall J F M A M J J A S O N D N O S A J J M A M J F J F M A M J J A S O N D N O S A J J M A M J F 50 50 86 68 32 86 68 32 104 104 in in Travel with Children with Travel 777m (2549ft) 51m (167ft) Temp Temp

J M A J F M J A O N D S J M A J F M J A O N D S

0 0 The other good time to visit is autumn The other good time to in Jordan is conditioned partly Climate in- , for more p20 Also see When to Go, See also Amman for Children, p104 , for p104 See for Children, also Amman advice about comprehensive For more 20 20 30 30 10 40 10 40 °C °F °C °F AQABA

AMMAN CLIMATE CHARTS CHARTSCLIMATE is a wonderful to mid-May) Spring (March in all climate the time to visit Jordan as country is clement, with the the parts of the countryside is occasional shower, and including Jor- studded with wildflowers, dan’s famous black iris. when the (September to mid-November) the heat of after cools off temperature Seasummer and the Dead and Red Sea are pleasantly warm. as such areas by altitude, with the lowest Aqaba ex- and Gulf of the Jordan Valley summer heat periencing the most extreme to August). The and humidity (mid-May in contrast, hilly central and northern areas, to (November winter cold in can be very the falls over often when snow February) high ground. formation on the best time to travel. oryx at Shaumari Wildlife Reserve Wildlife Shaumari oryx at should kids amused. most keep the capitalactivities in city. copy of pick up a with children, travelling Lonely Planet’s lonelyplanet.com Cathy Lanigan. DIRECTORY Jordanians prizehonesty andare anxious As withArab Muslimsacross the region, &Crime Theft women travellers. this chapter formore advicefor soloand from localmen.See p301 and p304 later in and harassment be annoyedattheleering not visited theregion before, may however, relaxed andhasslefree. Womenwhohave Israel, willfindthat Jordan iscomparatively countries,especiallyTurkeydle Eastern and Women whohave travelled inotherMid- Harassment Sexual in Jordan. lished inAmmanoryourembassy/consulate are theEnglish-language newspapers pub- tests, butitisbestnottoget involved. are unlikely tobetargeted pro- duringthese andnorthernAmman.ForeignersMu’tah Ma’an, andintheuniversity areas of Irbid, usuallytake placeinKarak,These Tafila and onstrations insupportof the Palestinians. dience occur. There are alsofrequent dem- occasional protests andactsof civildisobe- During rare politicaloreconomiccrises, Disorder Public the UNmine-ban convention. 10-year anniversary of Jordan’ssignature of Jordan will be minefree byMay 2009,the of warningsnottoenter. It’shopedthat ist trail,butifyou’re inthearea take heed the Jordan–Syriaborderiswelloff thetour- A minefield comprising86,756minesalong Minefields 294 The bestsourcesof current information http://travel.state.gov) US State Department & International Trade Canadian ofForeign Department Affairs ( British Foreign &CommonwealthOffice Affairs &Trade Australian ofForeign Department rent hotspots. travel advisoriesandinformationoncur- The followinggovernment websites offer GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca) .smarttraveller.gov.au) x DIRECTORY ••DiscountCards DIRECTORY 0845-850-2829; www.fco.gov.uk/countryadvice) ( x 1300 139281;www ( ( x x 888-407 4747; 800-267 6788; cautious. other towns,butwomenshould bemore inwell-litareasday ornight of Ammanand It’s generally safe formentowalkaround them, incommonwiththeircompatriots. from friendliness, honestyandhospitality you’re unlikely toexperienceanythingbut comparatively wealthyforeigners. patronage of intoxicated, vulnerableand pockets andmuggers are attracted bythe inAmman:pick- outsidenightclubs night careful late missing. Be at if somethinggoes jumping toconclusionsabout thehotel staff only asgoodyourfellow travellers: avoid is generally safe, butashared hotel roomis orhotelof atabusstation amemberof staff pair of socksinyourluggage. some cashandacopyof yourpassportina money beltisagoodideaandsohiding avoiding carryingtoomuch cash.Acotton ing walletsorpurses inafrontpocket, and to take somesimpleprecautions, like carry- seem. oil lampsandcoinsare whatthey seldom from abroad.Similarly,so-called‘ancient’ share scheme, wheninfactitisimported genuinely locallycrafted aspartof aprofit- other minorscamistoclaimsomething drivertaxi topointoutthismistake. An- ing. Perhaps understandably, itisrare fora visitors often misunderstand thiswhenpay- on themeter isinfils,notdinars, and Amman andothertowns.Thefare quoted scam tobewaryof ridesin isduring taxi scamsorpettytheft.One either through ple intouristareas tomake aquickbuck there isagreat temptation forsomepeo- try. Thatsaid, given theirrelative poverty to make visitors feel secure intheircoun- offices areoffices open9amto 11amSunday to for neighbouring countries). Ingeneral, theboxedAqaba (see text, p303 , forvisas in Amman.Egypt alsohasaconsulate in The following embassies and consulates are EMBASSIES &CONSULATES university IDcardsare notaccepted. (ISIC)–national StudentIdentityCard at touristsites on productionof anInter- Student discountsare occasionally available DISCOUNT CARDS The military keep alowprofileThe military and yourbagunderthewatchful eye Leaving harm Theft islesscommon,butitdoesn’t lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY 295 (www

Distant Heat Whether or not it lives up to not it lives Whether or DIRECTORY Events & •• Festivals Check www.gaymiddleeast.com and the There is a subdued underground gay gay is a subdued underground There A kebab sandwich or budget meal of roast meal of or budget sandwich A kebab A festival that may be of interest to to interest of that may be A festival gay and lesbian thread of Lonely Planet’s of gay and lesbian thread bulletin board (www.lonely Thorn Tree information. planet.com) for more scene in Amman – if you’re keen to ex- keen scene in Amman – if you’re Gay- your enquiries discreet. it, keep plore that attract young, gay and friendly venues straight crowds include the multipurpose ) and the Blue Fig Café p109 Books@café ( meeting places are ). Other suggested p109 ( in Amman. bars the top-end hotel HOLIDAYS is 11 days calendar the Islamic Hejira As calendar, each than the Gregorian shorter chicken costs JD1 to JD3; a main dish in chicken costs around JD4 to restaurant a midrange costs JD6; and a meal in a top-end restaurant de- for more p77 from JD8 upwards. See for restrictions p296 tailed information, and on eating and drinking during Ramadan. in most Islamic Homosexuality is illegal Middle East, but in Jordan countries in the (according to most sources) gay sex is legal consentdisplays is 16. Public of and the age frowned affection are by heterosexuals of upon and the same apply to gays and rules lesbians, although same-sex hand-holding friendship in Jordan. is a common sign of music-loving travellers is travellers music-loving FOOD by ordered are In this guide restaurants starting preference), price (not by author been chosen have Venues with the cheapest. in on offer the experience for the quality of and service,food, atmosphere the of terms money. as well as their value for TRAVELLERS & LESBIAN GAY FIA World Rally Championship. See p67 p67 RallyFIA World See Championship. for details. .distantheat.com). its billing as one of the top 10 festivals in top 10 festivals the one of its billing as East,the Middle a fun event it’s that ‘high- lights and as a peaceful destination’ Jordan the crowd from around attracts a young The all-nighttop featuring party, region. electronic-dance- and local international July each the end of music artists, is held at next continues often year in Wadi Rum and pool parties in Aqaba. day with beach Global Global (www.jordan

06-4636720; fax 06-5924154; fax 8am-3pm Sun-Thu) 8am-3pm Sun-Thu) in the Marj al- in the Marj x x 03-2016171; cnr Al- 03-2016171; cnr h 9am-noon Sun-Thu) 9am-noon Sun-Thu) 06-5503529; Maysaloon 06-5902200; www Jordan Rally x h x 06-5930367; www.amman 06-5807000; www.jordan x 06-5929111; fax 5929113; Al- (Map p94 ; p94 (Map (Map p90 ; p90 (Map 06-5923771; Al-Ameer Hashem bin 06-5605175; fax 5604082; 22 06-5605175; fax 06-4604630; www.ambafrance 06-5920684; Abdoun Prince 06-5920684; Abdoun Prince x x x 06-4623175; fax 4619172; Al- 06-5906000; http://usembassy x x x 06-5909200; www.britain.org.jo; x (Map p248 ; p248 (Map x x (Map p99 ; p99 (Map Consulate Consulate (Map p90 ; x (Map p90 ; (Map p87 ; (Map p90 ; held in April and organised by the held in April and organised (www.globalvillagejo.com) (Map p90 ; (Map p90 ;

(Map p90 ;

Consulate Consulate (Map p90 ; (Map p90 ; (Map p87 ; (Map p90 ; Another summer festival is the Another summer festival A brand-new addition to the events cir- St, Shmeisani) Kulliyah al-Islamiyah St, Jebel 1st circle. Amman) Near the .embassy.gov.au; 3 Youssef Abu Shahhout, 3 .embassy.gov.au; Deir Ghbar) 5921154; 1st Circle, Jebel Amman) .diplo.de; 31 Bin Ghazi St, Jebel Amman) Between 4th and .diplo.de; 5th circles. Qortubah St, Jebel Amman; 5th circles. Between 4th and rally.com) -amman.org.jo; 20 Al-Umawiyeen St, Abdoun) al-Hussein St, Abdoun Circle) Neel St, Abdoun) Near the UK embassy. Isteglal & Al-Akhatal Sts, Aqaba; Embassy Jordan’s best-known cultural event is the and Arts (see Culture the of Festival Jerash ). In summer (July and p129 text, boxed August), traditional concerts and plays are in held at the Odeon and Roman Theatre Salt and Amman, as well as in the towns of Fuheis. Yemen & EVENTSFESTIVALS Village USA UK Syria Saudi Arabia New Zealand Netherlands Lebanon Israel Iraq Germany France Egypt Thursday for visa to and 1pm applications Thursday visas. collecting 3pm for Australia lonelyplanet.com Hamam area of Amman. Held in July and Held Amman. of area Hamam August it comprises car- an international nival with funfair, shopping opportunities, and local cultural entertainments. theatre cuit in Jordan is the Dimashq St, Wadi Abdoun, Abdoun) -jo.org; Al-Mutanabbi St, Jebel-jo.org; Amman) .netherlandsembassy.com.jo; 22 Ibrahim St) Near Ayoub the 4th circle. 4634349; 99 Al-Malek al-Hussein St, Downtown) On the 4th floor of the Khalaf Building. Hashem bin Al-Hussein St, Jebel Amman) Near the 4th Hashem bin Al-Hussein St, Jebel the 4th Amman) Near circle. DIRECTORY the endoffastinginpreceding monthofRamadan. the ProphetMohammedtoheaven. 10 June chewing isconsidered theboxedIslam (see text, p60 ). Even gum- in accordancewith thefourthpillarof hours andsmokingduringdaylight sex lims refrain from eating, drinking,having During theholymonthof Mus- Ramadan Ramadan also markstheendofhaj. hisson,Isaac. It intheBible)fromsacrificing (Abraham Eid al-Adha Eid al-Fitr Ramadan Eid al-IsraWalMi’raj Prophet’s Birthday Islamic NewYear equivalent dates intheWestern calendar. theTableSee of IslamicHolidays, above , for The mainIslamicholidaysare listed below. Day Christmas ArabRevolt oftheGreat Army Day&Anniversary Independence Day Labour Day Good Friday New Year’s Day public holidays. tend tobevery crowdedonFridaysand of celebration. days important join theirfamiliesonthese al-Adha asshopowners manyshopsclose tions normally.DuringEidal-Fitrand remain open,andpublictransportfunc- moneychangers andrestaurants generally government Shops, andbanksclose. offices During thepublicholidayslisted below, Holidays Public ofdepend uponthesighting themoon. fixed ashorttimebeforehand they because the previous year. Theprecise dates are only year Islamic holidaysfall11daysearlierthan 296 Archaeological sites andnature reserves eiaYa e er rpe’ itdy aaa eis i lFt Eidal-Adha 20.08.12 Eidal-Fitr 31.08.11 21.07.12 1433 20.10.11 23.10.12 10.09.10 01.08.11 1432 07.12.10 05.11.11 Begins Ramadan 04.02.12 20.09.09 11.08.10 1431 18.12.09 16.11.10 Prophet’sBirthday 15.02.11 22.08.09 1430 29.12.08 27.11.09 NewYear 26.02.10 Hejira Year 09.03.09 TABLE OFISLAMIC HOLIDAYS DIRECTORY ••Insurance DIRECTORY Ninth month of the Muslim Calendar. NinthmonthoftheMuslim Starts atthebeginningofShawwaltomark Starts 1May Commemoration of Allah sparing Ibrahim Ibrahim sparing CommemorationofAllah March/April 25December 1January First DayofMuharram. 25May Celebrated on 12 Rabi’ al-Awal. Celebratedon12Rabi’ Celebrates the nocturnal visitof Celebrates thenocturnal haram (forbidden).

unavailable. orsimplybe be restricted toroomservice of alcohol may normally, buttheserving and publictransportgenerally functions tions andhotel restaurants remain open home tobreak theirfast.Touristattrac- lages townsaspeoplego turnintoghost end of themonth.After 6.30pmmanyvil- ratic andtempers tend toflare towards the Celebrations, ing thisperiod(see p79 ). form toeat,drinkorsmoke inpublicdur- are notexpected tofollowsuit,butit’sbad most conformtosomeextent. Foreigners not followtheinjunctionstoletter, universities such asYarmouk University internet centres, are found outsidemajor petitive numberof rates, and the highest one publicinternet centre. Themostcom- also Insurance, p324 . ofassessment yourproblem ismade. See in yourhomecountrywhere animmediate you tocallback(reverse charges) toacentre Some policiesask keep alldocumentation. submit aclaimafter ensure theevent, you directly.or hospitals Alternatively, ifyou treatment isanexpensive business! dive inAqaba –decompression-chamber You musthave insuranceifyouplanto trekking.diving, motorcyclingandeven gerous activities’,which canincludescuba gency home. flights should cover ambulancefees and emer- Thepolicy medical problemsisessential. Travel insurance thatcovers theft,lossand INSURANCE (ISPs), including boasts numerous Providers Internet Service Jordan ispartof thecybercommunity,and ACCESS INTERNET Business hours during Ramadan areBusiness hours er- duringRamadan manyMuslimsinJordando Although Almost every towninJordanhasat least Almost every You mayprefer apolicythatpaysdoctors Some policiesspecificallyexclude‘dan- Cyberia

(www.cyberia.jo) lonelyplanet.com . DIRECTORY 297 DIRECTORY Matters •• Legal If you are a collector of notes and coins, and coins, notes a collector of If you are Syrian, Lebanese, Egyptian, Israeli Syrian, Lebanese, Israeli Egyptian, on credit- no local charges are There There are no restrictions on bringing on bringing no restrictions are There Changing money is very easy in Jordan, Changing money is very Coins come in denominations of 10, 25, in denominations of Coins come you may be interested in old Iraqi money, you may be interested Saddam Hussein, bearing the portrait of in downtown corners for sale on street good they’re fake, if they’re Amman. Even gambit with the Iraqi as a conversational selling them. who are refugees and Iraqi currency can all be changed in can all be changed and Iraqi currency are and Israeli currency Amman. Egyptian Banks in Aqaba. and also easily changed about the same for charge moneychangers charge hotels cash, but large exchanging major of small branches are There more. and airports. banks at the borders card cash advances, but the maximum daily withdrawal amount is around JD500, dinars into Jordan. It’s possible to change into Jordan. It’s possible to change dinars in currencies back into some foreign dinars to Jordan, but you’ll need to show receipts into your currency that you changed prove at a bank in Jordan. dinars in Jordan almost It is possible to travel giving cash ATMs on plastic. entirely advances abound in all but the smaller your PIN! towns –just don’t forget and most major currencies are accepted in accepted are currencies and most major Until recently, cheques. cash and travellers accepted; the most readily were US dollars dollar still writing, with the at the time of UK currencies, weak against other major the of flavour the pounds and euros are with Australian nowhere month; you’ll get or New Zealand dollars. ATMs 50, 100, 250 and 500 fils, and one dinar. fils, and one dinar. 50, 100, 250 and 500 JD1, 5, of come in denominations Notes as notes larger 10, 20 and 50. Try to change as possible – when paying for petrol, often bill – as it hotel for example, or for your in small notes large can be hard to pay with establishments. 100 fils). Often when a price is quoted the quoted a price is when Often 100 fils). that told so if you’re be omitted, unit will working of is 25, it’s a matter something or 25 it’s 25 fils, 25 piastre out whether Although most it sounds confusing, dinars! ripping off of wouldn’t dream Jordanians of the possible exception with a foreigner, ). p294 (seetaxi drivers

or or or Jordan Jordan Map of piastre (www.hotmail.com) . Most places are . Most places are

among hip young among hip young Hotmail jay-dee (mail.yahoo.com)

(1:730,000) has an excellent map of (1:730,000) has an excellent map of is a handy driving map. The Royal this refers to 10 fils (10 qirsh equals to 10 fils (10 qirsh this refers

Several out- available detailed maps are Travellers, naturally, are expected to re- expected naturally, are Travellers, If you have a laptop it’s possible to con- a laptop it’s possible to If you have way to collect mail throughThe easiest

Amman. by Kümmerly and Frey is the best driving is by Kümmerly and Frey GEO Project’s of edition map, and the latest Jordan is probably the easiest map to find,

Yahoo!Mail

MONEY as the Known

locals, the currency in Jordan is the dinar locals, the currency (JD) 1000 fils. You and it is made up of will sometimes hear the terms MAPS The Jordan Tourism Board’s free qirsh: side Jordan: ITMB’s 1:700,000 map side Jordan: ITMB’s Geographic Centre of Jordan also pub- Geographic Centre of a hiking map maps, including lishes good Petra. of Jordan

spect the law. Penalties for drug use of any for drug use of spect the law. Penalties stiff, and criticising the king can kind are Traffic years. up to three of bring a jail term with a drivers foreign treat police generally as long indulgence, good-natured of degree been traffic broken. laws have as no major speeding, drunk driv- However, excessive not toler- ing and seat are belt avoidance the law, your embassy can If you break ated. and recommend only contact your relatives local lawyers. LEGAL MATTERS LEGAL MATTERS has evolved from Jordanian legal system The and commercial lawdistinct traditions. Civil based on British-style common is largely are matters and family law, while religious courts, by Islamic Sharia covered generally for non-Muslims. or ecclesiastic equivalents (Irbid) and the University of Jordan in in Jordan of University and the (Irbid) from about Costs range Amman. northern per hour. 750 fils to JD3 and a from top-end internet nect to the direct-dial that have hotels midrange few local desk for with the hotel phones. Check dial-up numbers. is to open a web-based centres internet as account such lonelyplanet.com also set up for various online chat services,also set chat up for various online as MSN Messenger. such DIRECTORY of the lowerconsumer prices. there on shoppingsprees totake advantage oftax only5%andmanyJordanianshead Aqaba specialeconomic zonehasasales charge. The on anadditional 10%service end restaurants andhotels mayalsoadd and top-endrestaurants. Midrange andtop- generally onlyaddedtothebillinmidrange Jordan hasasales oftax 16%,butthisis Tax changing money. the English-language newspapers before tocheckvisable therates atbanksorin practice manydo,soshoparound.It’sad- commission ontravellers cheques, butin In theory, moneychangers donotcharge Moneychangers ernunion.com) offered by service ispartofAmman Bank theinternational the international transfer of money.Cairo- canarrangeand JordanNationalBank) Some major banks (such asArab Bank Transfers International Visa MasterCard Diners Club Express American card: yourcredit inAmmanifyoulose contact advance andpaywiththepaperstuff. to thebill,soitmaybebetter toget acash Commissions of upto5%maybeadded cies, larger souvenir shops andbookshops. top-end hotels andrestaurants, travel agen- Most major credit cardsare accepted at Cards Credit x IfanATMHSBC). swallowsyourcard,call ATMs and (egJordanNationalBank rus andPlus,are alsoaccepted bymany by MasterCard. Othercards,such asCir- at ATMs andforcashadvances,followed ing which credit cardstheyaccept. banks have large signs(inEnglish) indicat- depending onyourparticularcard.All 298 with acredit cardisabetter bet. acashadvance withboth,soobtaining high banks. Feeshas agreements withseveral are The followingare emergency numbers to isthemostwidelyacceptedVisa card 06-5669123 (Amman). ( DIRECTORY ••Photography&Video DIRECTORY x 06-5680554) ( ( x . x MoneyGram 06-5675850) 06-4655863) ( x 06-5607014) Western Union Western

(www.moneygram.com)

(www.west

on tax rebateson tax fortourists. activity of amarketplace. poverty andsqualor; thismayincludethe tures of anything‘negative’ orsuggestive of try andcanbeoffended ifyoutake pic- pictures. burn photosontoaCDandprintdigital around JD20.Many camerashops can widely available; a1GBmemorycardcosts accessoriesandmemorycardsareDigital Equipment in luggage. tion. Don’tkeep yourfilminchecked- in azip-lockbagready formanualinspec- ment, butifyouhave printfilmkeep it not affected whenscannedbythisequip- for checking luggage. images Digital are All airportsinJordanhave X-raymachines Security Airport PHOTOGRAPHY &VIDEO mission before changing them. American Express (Amex).Checkthecom- cepted, withthemostrecognised being Most typesof travellers cheques are ac- Cheques Travellers petrol attendants drivers. andtaxi changeloose isappreciated, especiallyby to thenearest 250filsorgivingbackthe restaurants. Elsewhere, roundingupthebill Tips of 10%are generally expected inbetter Tipping the Dead Sea Highway where Highway therethe Dead Sea are tobecarefulcastles. You alsoneed along tive sites notfarfromthedesert military as there Desert Eastern are sensi- several is forbidden.Take particularcare inthe gic areas’ like bridges andpublicbuildings zonesand ‘strate-Photography inmilitary Restrictions photographed. Childrenmon sense. generally lineuptobe ugly scenes,soexercise courtesy andcom- graph againstsomeone’swishes canleadto so askfirst. Persisting a intaking photo- the elderly,object tobeingphotographed, Some Jordanians,particularlywomenand People Photographing See Duty-Free, See opposite , forinformation Jordanians are very proudof theircoun- lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY 299 06-4623186; www.cus x (

DIRECTORY •• Post in Amman. Customs Department Most upmarket shops offer tax rebates. If tax rebates. shops offer Most upmarket you spend over JD350, keep your receipts, your receipts, JD350, keep you spend over the coun- form and leave fill out a tax rebate the 16% tax try within 90 days, you can get card at a booth at to your credit refunded check-in. the airport, just before than 100 years Exporting anything more (in- old is illegal, so don’t buy any souvenir cluding ‘ancient’ coins or oil lamps) that is deemed by the salesman – to be ‘antique’ if only because isn’t. If you’re it probably contact provenance, about an item’s unsure the Handicrafts around Jordan selloutlets high- Several by Jordanian handmade quality items go all items from the sale of women. Profits aiming to develop the statusto local NGOs for income generation women, provide of Duty Free Duty Free shops at Queen Alia In- duty-free are There Airport and next to the Centuryternational plus small outlets in Amman, Hotel Park with Israel and the at the border crossings Territories. Palestinian Export Restrictions SHOPPING SHOPPING handi- of tradition with its strong Jordan, to shop. is a fun place craft production, a high quality, goods of after If you are as specialisedit pays to visit craft centres in souvenir shopping opposed to one-stop the kinds a full description of shops. For is famous for, please craft that Jordan of see p65 . Bargaining especially when souvenir- Bargaining, are hunting, is essential, but shopkeepers than their Syrian and Egyptian less likely to shift far from their original counterparts . p300 text, asking prices. See the boxed toms.gov.jo) , which has , which (www.jordanpost

, which has an office , which (www.dhl.com)

Jordan Post DHL (www.fedex.com.jo) has an informative website. has an informative

Letter/postcard Letter/postcard 1kg parcel Extra 1kg 325 fils JD4.200 JD3.600 475 fils JD14.300 JD4 625 fils JD14.600 JD8.100 625 fils JD13.600 JD7.100 Type Middle East UK/Europe USA/Canada Australia USA/Canada UK/Europe East FROM JORDAN RATES POSTAL Type Middle Reliable courier companies include Reliable courier companies include If you want your camera to continue to continue If you want your camera

.com.jo) offices in Amman and Aqaba. Half a kilo Half officesAqaba. in Amman and costs around JD50 to most countries, al- dramati- decreases rate though the per-kilo you send. cally the more

in Amman, and Sending Mail Sending Mail shops from souvenir available Stamps are post- are sold and there postcards are where from posted around towns. Letters boxes Aus- up to two weeksJordan take to reach as little as tralia and the USA, but often UK and Europe. or four days to the three town has a post office, but parcels are Every best sent from Amman or Aqaba. FedEx Postal Rates Postal Rates to Amman is the best place from which detailed . For more p93 send parcels – see postal information, POST Technical Tips Tips Technical ac- into to take factor biggest The single in the middle pictures count is light. Taking the day will almost guarantee a washed- of light and the strong contrasts of out shot, as hard for a camera to deal with. shade are possible, try to exploit the softer Where after- the early morning and late light of in colour enhances subtleties noon, which If you do glare. problems of and eliminates need shots in bright to take light, use a lens the sun behind you. and keep filter sand trip, don’t get working for your next zip-lock plastic bag and a lens in it! A large clean. Bear your camera brush will help keep to is cheaper filter in mind, too, that a lens than the lens itself. replace numerous checkpoints protecting the sen- protecting checkpoints numerous the Palestinian Israel and border with sitive Territories. lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY or around is thetraditional Arabheadcloth, itwhenyouget tocarry home.use Easier buy asupplyof charcoal ifyouintend to nian water pipemakes agood souvenir; If youcancarryithand-luggage, aJorda- Souvenirs Other you are lookingfor! above theshopexactly when theyare not.Checkthatthesign claim tobepartof charitable foundations jumped onthecooperative bandwagonand hangings, are alsoavailable. including cushions, tablecloths andwall decor items aimedattheforeign market, clothing fromacrossJordan.Stylish home weavings fromIraqal-Amir; andtraditional Salt; painted fromShaumari; ostrich eggs al-Amir, AqabaandJerash; ceramicsfrom handmadepaperproductsfromIraq Musa; tiatives includesilver jewelleryfromWadi up’ fromourauthors. ifashopgets thegreenp358 tosee ‘thumbs and p197 . AlsoconsulttheGreenDex on theboxedtage industries,see text on p22 and/or protect thelocalenvironment. marginalised families,nurture youngartists 300 Unfortunately, someshop owners have small-scaleini- Products fromthese For more localcot- informationonthese ‘good deal’generallymeansagooddealmore thanjusttheexchangeofmoney. oftravelling inJordan,abesides, asshoppingisoneofthemostmemorableandsociableparts won’tbeifyoutell themyouboughtthesamethingforless.something, theycertainly And the word negotiations aren’t goingtoplan,simplysmileandsaygoodbye. You’llbesurprisedhowoften to sellat–butdon’tquote tooloworthevendor maybeinsulted. Never if loseyour temper: you have roomtocompromisewhenthevendor quotes ahigherpricethanheorshewishes this isoften considered belowthepriceyouwishtobuyatso arrogantandbadmanners. Start suchnegotiationssweet.Avoidten thatkeeps codeofconduct payingthefirstpricequoted: even, forlarge purchases,lunchwiththefamily.As withallsocialinteraction, there’s anunwrit- persuade thevendor tomatchit. what youare willingtopayforanitem toseeifyoucan andthenuseyourinterpersonal skills the vendor hadarowwiththeirspouseinthemorning. Equally,itisyourchancetodecide dinarortwo,andeven apersonwhocanaffordanextra whetherthat day,whetheryoulooklike suchashowmanyothersalesthevendoris dependentonmanychangeablefactors, hasmade pay balancedagainstthesumvendor ishappytosellthegoodsfor. This subtleexchange means thatitems donothave avalueperse:theirisgoverned bywhatyouare willingto In commonwithneighbouringcountries,Jordanhasatraditionofbargaining forgoods. This AGOOD DEAL GETTING keffiyeh, DIRECTORY ••Smoking DIRECTORY Resist comparingpriceswithothertravellers. Iftheywere happywithwhattheypaidfor Bargaining, often orhaggling,isahighlysociableactivity, conducted over acupoftea or and ma’a salaama agal (the black cord used (theblack cordused (goodbye)bringsthepricedown. matches theshop purchase is to survive thejourneyhome. istosurvive purchase Inspect thejointsandinlaycarefully ifyour and chess inlaidwithmother-of-pearl. sets from Syria,includewalnutjewellery boxes town. throughout fully created tinyfunnels,are through sold tions andbottlesof coloured skil- sand, where T-shirts, Nabataean Petra reproduc- ofJordan’s capital kitsch isWadiMusa, style glassfromNaur(outsideAmman). fromMadabaern mosaics andHebron- than toplay. areist shops,however, more fordisplay intour- forsale drums. Theonesyou’llsee kas, eitherouds(Arabic lutes)sell or hip inthisattire, thelocalsmaynotagree. you, whileyoumaythinklookpretty is available atshops allover Jordan.Mind robe knownasa length Bedouin of theregion. Theelegantflowingankle- to keep itonyourhead),socharacteristic banning smoking inpublic andtheocca- to reach Jordan.There are nolawsinplace ing acrossmany parts of theworldhasyet The tideof sweep- anti-smoking sentiment SMOKING Woodwork items, generally imported Other souvenirs includeolive oil,mod- A few musicshopsindowntownAmman the standard MiddleEastern–style thestandard lonelyplanet.com jalabiyya darbuk-

DIRECTORY

301 Fastlink Jordan Tel- and 06-4606666; www.jordantelecomgroup x ( DIRECTORY Travellers •• Solo both of which offer a full range of of a full range offer which both of

, 06-5823111; www.fastlink.com.jo) Per-minute mobile charges are around are mobile charges Per-minute If caught short in the desert or hillsides Toilet paper (the use of which is consid- which Toilet paper (the use of x ecom Group 350 fils to Europe and Australia and 700 fils350 fils to Europe and Australia to the USA. plans and pre-paid SIM cards. Rates for SIM cards. Rates for pre-paid plans and signing up start 175 min- at JD10, including talk time. of utes of Jordan, it is imperative you choose a spot Jordan, it is imperative of and bury the courses well away from water outcome in as deep a pit as possible to avoid new ‘Kleenex trails’. creating ered an unsanitary practice in most Mid- ered dle Eastern countries) is seldom available, and top-end hotels except in the midrange to use people prefer Local and restaurants. the hose any toilet paper and then deposit (used for drying purposes) in the basket the toilet bowl; these baskets by the side of as the should be usedblockages to avoid for paper. is not designed sewerage system For those who can’t do without it, toilet paper can be bought in most grocery shops throughout Jordan. TOILETS except those and restaurants, Most hotels Western- now have category, in the budget using you’ll be toilets. In most others style squat toilets with a hose and a for ablutions for flushing. provided bucket water To make a call from a landline, you must a call from a landline, you To make the six- or seven-digitnumber with precede See code. a two-digit area Reference, Quick for details. inside the front cover, TIME GMT/UTC ahead of Jordan is two hours ahead between hours and three in winter daylight- when 1 April and 1 October, that Jordan’s Note time is introduced. saving daylight-saving sync is slightly time out of in Europe. with summer clock changes within Jor- no time differences are There dan. Jordan is on the same time zone as Syria Territories, Israel and the Palestinian and Egypt. Mobile Phones PhonesMobile sys- use in Jordan GSM the phones Mobile service Two main tem. are providers ( Codes Telephone .com)

Local calls cost around 150 fils for three Local calls cost around 150 fils for three Overseas at any card calls can be made During any bus ride (as one traveller, (as one traveller, During any bus ride alone, For advice for women travelling

TELEPHONE in Jordan is priva- system telephone The from a a call make can tised, so visitors from a hotel call agency, telephone private card from one or shop, or buy a telephone pay phones throughout the 1000 or more of Jordan. a call The easiest place to make minutes. often are local calls where is at your hotel, and pri- Otherwise, most shopkeepers free. will lend you their agencies telephone vate Ma’alak a prepaid if you have telephone in various denominations card (available overseas The cost of from grocery stores). calls from Jordan varies widely: one to 10 costs from around JD3. minutes substan- but are pay phone or from hotels, tel- Reverse-charge expensive. tially more normally not possible. ephone calls are Fernando Perego, writes), ‘local people ex- writes), Perego, Fernando friendship’ and, as often the hand of tend end in an invitationor not, the journey will or meet tea the family. Dr Perego to share to visit the local clinic. An- was even invited Nathalie Ollier, found that other traveller, a morning trip to her planned itinerary of Mukawir turned into an all-day tea-tasting event one interested from as she was taken resident or village shop owner, bus driver will be surprised you are People to another. if you be alone, but on the whole will leave peace and quiet. a bit of after you’re see p304 . Jordan is an excellent destination for trav- destination for Jordan is an excellent The country is friendly, safe, elling alone. in with plenty compact and easy to travel opportunities to meet Jordanians and of in (particularly travellers mix with fellow and Wadi Musa). Amman, Madaba SOLO TRAVELLERS SOLO TRAVELLERS sional no-smoking signs (such as those signs (such no-smoking sional at Top-end ignored. blithely are the airport) the Dead Sea in Amman, hotels Aqaba and reserve for their non-smoking rooms a few occasional quality restaurant guests and the selectednon-smoking policy at enforces a tables, other public places, includ- but in all ing buses taxis, and still consid- smoking is de rigueur. ered lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY dan Tourism Board dan Tourism people with disabilities to enjoydiving. people withdisabilities enter thecountry withinthree months of valid for three months (that is,youmust of Jordan’slandborders. are Touristvisas on arrivaleither at theairportormost canbeobtained Visas ing Jordan(JD10). areVisas required byall foreigners enter- VISAS forAll Conservation Access toMarine The RoyalDivingClubisamember of the ties tohelpwithaccessthemainsites. provided atPetra forvisitors withdisabili- carriagespublic buildings.Horse-drawn are accessmustbeaddedtoallnew wheelchair Jordanian government haslegislated that long traverses over ground. uneven logical sites of Petra and Jerash –involves ist attractions–such asthevastarchaeo- ischaotic, andvisitingtour-and thetraffic nians are happy tohelp,citiesare crowded travellers Jorda- Although withdisabilities. for nowJordanisstillnotagreat placefor are alongtimetofilter and taking through people with Thebenefitsofdisabilities. this this achievement anditthrew on aspotlight Paralympics. Jordaniansare very proudof athlete Maha intheSydney Barghouthi Olympic goldmedal,wonbythefemale In late 2000Jordancelebrated itsfirst-ever TRAVELLERS WITHDISABILITIES USA UK Germany .tourism.jo) the of in Ammanislocated onthegroundfloor and visitorcentres. Themaintouristoffice Jordan hasagoodnetworkof touristoffices TOURIST INFORMATION 302 France forabrochureoffices and mappackage: thefollowing Jordan andabroad.Contact eral languages available in fromitsoffices publishes someexcellentbrochures insev- regularly updated information. JTBalso .org; Suite102,6867ElmSt,McLean, VA 22101) Weser Strasse460329Frankfurt) .amca-international.org) Paris, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt, Paris) Paris, 92100Boulogne-Billancourt, 115 HammersmithRd,London,W140QH) ( The comprehensive website of the There issomegood news,however. The ( x DIRECTORY •• Tourist Information ••Tourist DIRECTORY x ( 0207-3716496; [email protected]; x Ministry of Tourism &Antiquities ofTourism Ministry 1877-7335673, 703-2437404;www.seejordan ( inJebel Amman(see p95 ). x 01-55609446; [email protected]; 122rue 01-55609446; [email protected]; 069-92318870; [email protected];

, aninitiative toenable (JTB; www.visitjordan.com) (JTB;

(AMCA; www

(www has Jor- 2035757; www.aqabazone.com) crossings. of Jordan’sotherbordercrossings. notapplyatany border –thisoptiondoes that youalsomustreturn thesame through exit slipandpresent itonreturning. Note extension. Remembertokeep thestamped the validityof orits yourJordanianvisa Bridge,sein providing youreturn within to reapply atKingHus- foraJordanianvisa inAmman),youdonotneed while staying to take adetourtoJerusalem fora few days Jordan (youmayhave decided,forexample, ing forthefirst time. Ifyouare re-entering you’re entering thiscross- Jordanthrough lates if abroad.Thisonlyapplies,however, from oneof Jordan’sembassiesor consu- (costJD10/20)single/multiple entryvisa ian Territories, a toobtain thenyouneed this crossingfromIsraelandthePalestin- Bridge. Ifyouintend toenter Jordan using ders, withtheexceptionof KingHussein mum of fuss atanyof Jordan’slandbor- forJordanareVisas issued withamini- Land Borders At official andyou’llbewaved through. toanimmigration simply show yourstamp tolineupintheimmigrationqueues: need gration. After getting youdon’t yourvisa, but ATMs are onlyavailable after immi- money changers adjacenttothecounters, be madeinJordaniandinars. There are the immigrationcounters. Payment must deskoppositein Ammanfromthevisa areVisas issuedonarrivalattheairport the Airport At one monthfromthedate of entry. the date of of issue)andallowstays upto tained inadvance from Jordanianconsulatestained mustbeob- (JD20) Multiple entryvisas EntryVisa Multiple you mustregister withthe inJordanformoreyou stay than 15days, Special EconomicZoneArea If (ASEZA). of thefree-trade agreement withtheAqaba Eilat, youare entitledtoafreeaspart visa fromNuweiba inEgypt orbylandfrom sea Aqaba, byaironaninternational flight, If youarrive inJordan’ssoutherncityof theAqabaEconomicZone Via See See p309 regarding fordetails border inAqaba. ASEZA office ASEZA lonelyplanet.com

( x 03- DIRECTORY 303 DIRECTORY •• Visas you arrive in Jordan. Only in Jordan. Only you arrive before you arrive in Jordan. you arrive before Visas are theoretically available at the Syria–Jordan border, providing there is no Syrian rep- is no Syrian there providing available at the Syria–Jordan border, theoretically are Visas a visa stamp Syria from Jordan if you have It’s important that you cannot enter remember to Visas of one month’s duration are available at Jordan Bridge and Yitzhak Rabin border cross- available at Jordan Bridge and Yitzhak of one month’s duration are Visas If you’re travelling by boat from Jordan to Nuweiba and you only intend to visit the Sinai Penin- from Jordan to Nuweiba and you only intend by boat travelling If you’re further If you wish to travel than Sharm el-Sheikh, a full visa for then you need to request For details regarding border crossings, see p309 . For addresses of embassies and consulates, and consulates, of embassies . For addresses p309 crossings, see border For details regarding Syria Syria must obtain a visa for Syria to Syria, you to travel If you intend foreign residents in Jordan (ie expatriate workers and diplomats) and residents of a country without of a country without workers and diplomats) and residents in Jordan (ie expatriate residents foreign have a Syrian visa at the embassy in Amman. Some readers can be issued Syrian representation in (in Arabic) from their embassy of recommendation obtaining a letter a Syrian visa after received on. not be counted the exception than the rule and should more Amman, but this is definitely getting a visa at reported even have Some travellers in your country of residence. resentation If visiting Syria is an important of this rule. part you the border regardless of your trip, however, of the border guard. this to the good humour may not want to leave . p312 text, – see the boxed Territories in your passport from Israel and the Palestinian Saudi Arabia Saudi Arabia a Saudi resident’s You must either have It is not possible to visit Saudi Arabia as a casual traveller. and you can from Jordan to Kuwait or to Yemen travelling the country or, if you are visa to enter in your own car), travelling is no other way of getting to your destination (ie you are there prove must be applied for well in advance This transit visa. a three- or seven-day you may be granted Check with and is subject to many additional stipulations. from your country of normal residence process. this attempting the Saudi Arabian embassy in your own country before Lebanon Lebanon Embassy entry points, but not at the Lebanon at Lebanese available readily visas are Lebanese via Syria you will need to obtain your Syrian to Lebanon travelling such, if you are in Amman. As visa Israel & the Palestinian Territories Territories Israel & the Palestinian Staff at the heavily fortified as discourage visa applications, Amman actively Israeli embassy in Bridge – Jordan open to foreigners border crossings currently available at the three visas are (known as Sheikh Hussein Bridge in Jordan), Allenby Bridge (King Yitzhak Hussein Bridge) and one. Rabin (Wadi Araba) – and many nationalities do not require border crossing. available at Allenby Bridge are Israeli visas Three-month ings. Iraq for visa ap- weeks to get approval It takes to three two present. to Iraq is not advised at Travel in Baghdad. plications from the Ministry Interior of Egypt Egypt on arrival in Egypt. issued a visa (US$15, payable in dollars) Most nationalities are travelling Similarly, if you’re 15 days. ‘Sinai Entry Stamp’ on arrival, valid for sula, you can get a free border. available at the Taba these stamps are Territories, the Palestinian via Israel and overland Single/multiple entry visas (JD12/15) in can be obtained (not available at Taba). on arrival Egypt and the visa is One passport at Aqaba. photo is required consulate advance from the Egyptian embassy in Amman charges chaotic Egyptian relatively The two hours. usually processed within (JD15/19), 3pm). (after but also issues visas the same day a little more GETTING VISAS FOR OTHER MIDDLE EAST COUNTRIES IN JORDAN JORDAN IN COUNTRIES MIDDLE EAST GETTING FOR OTHER VISAS visas. the relevant countries is possible by obtaining Jordan and neighbouring between Travelling is any indication Arabia if there entry to Syria, Iraq and Saudi that you will be refused Bear in mind ). p312 text, (see the boxed Territories in your passportentry to Israel and the Palestinian of see p294 . lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY and will jump intobedat thedropof ahat. that all foreign women are promiscuous and are thereby convinced films andTV, type of on Western aWestern womanbased marriage. Somemenformulate their stereo- before withwomen orsex or nocontact andmostmenhave little erally conservative ards, Jordan’slargely Muslim societyisgen- variable. Bycontemporary Western stand- least. Thereasons forthisare complex and the women inJordancanbetryingto say Attitudes of Jordanianmentowardsforeign TowardsWomen Attitudes WOMEN TRAVELLERS Borders asked togothe youmaybe any problemswithyourvisa, dayyouhavefine forevery overstayed. six months. Failure toregister results ina allowedonanextendedis stay touristvisa takes 24hours toprocess.Themaximum to have which usually anHIVtest (JD20), Youmayberequiredat apolicestation. minutes to complete theregistration process paperwork(see essary p95 ) ittakes about30 to three months. thenec- After assembling extended, at noextracharge, of forstays up caneasilybe From AmmanandAqaba visas Extensions Visa theboxed(see text, p312 ). intheirpassports ordocumentation stamps whohavetries refuse entrytothose Israeli region. manyArabcoun- Thisisbecause ifyouintendever, totravel elsewhere inthe fromthelatter, how- multiple-entry visa You maywanttoavoid getting aJordanian ing IsraelandthePalestinian Territories. sies inalltheneighbouring includ- states, youcanfindJordanianembas- Middle East, or embassiesoutsidethecountry.In 304 Shmeisani, Amman; shurta; ( central policestation isnexttotheShmeisani walk. Theoffice downtown, fromwhere it’sa15-minute Take 6or7toShmeisani from taxi service and friendly. the peopleonlyhelpful,hospitable Jordan forthree Ihave weeks, found As a woman travelling alone around For longer-term residency, ortosortout DIRECTORY ••WomenTravellers DIRECTORY

Mp p99; (Map ﺍﻟﺸﺮﻃﺔ

h ﻣﺪﻳﺮﻳﺔ x 8am-3pm Sun-Thu, to1pmSat) 06-5623348; Majed al-IdwansSt, 06-5623348; Majed Directorate of Residency & ofResidency Directorate

markaz mudiret ash- ﻣﺮﻛﺰ K Millar, UK ). . thing to ward off an advance, stepped themark.If youhave some- tosay into handifthey feel someonehas over- how quicklybystanders willtake matters dishonour involved. You’llbesurprised public scene,emphasisingtheshame and not wearheadscarves. of Jordan’sChristiancommunitieswhodo misconstrued –particularlybythe women ate fornon-MuslimsinJordanandcanbe covering their head,butthisisinappropri- imagine. asyoumight water asunseen pools isnever in thewadiswhere skinnydippinginfresh- dive centres. gotopless–especially Never save thebikinisfortop-endresorts and a T-shirt andshorts) whenswimmingand in Aqaba,wearaswimsuit(andpreferably your shoulders andupperarms. andcover trousers, length dresses orloose areas,home. Outsidethose aimforknee- dressingfeel comfortable asyouwouldat erally wearwhatever theyfeel like) you’ll dle of Petra (where tourgrouppartiesgen- large hotels andresorts inthemid- oreven Amman such asAbdoun andShmeisani, in than Amman.Inthetrendy districtsof areas, which tend tobemore conservative clothing, especiallyinsmalltownsandrural to respect regarding Muslimsensibilities problems. serious encounter(this authorincluded),andnever women travel Jordan,often through alone individuals spoilyourwholetrip.Plentyof perience oryou’llenduplettingafew sad behaviour aspartof orpassitoff theex- is rare inJordan. harassmentandrape for example. Serious physical misdemeanours –agropeinbus of sometimesfollowedbyminor leering, canalsotakeassment, however, theform riage anddeclarationsof undyinglove. Har- banter,ofthan irritating proposals mar- without. Thismayinvolve nothingmore have malecompanythatyou’dratherdo There willprobably betimeswhenyouwill Precautions that contributes tothisimpression. The factthatsomewomen todojust choose Some behaviour maywellwarrantagood Some foreign womengototheextent of and On publicbeaches attheDeadSea harassment,it’simperativeTo minimise Where possible,it’sbesttoignore such lonelyplanet.com imshi (clear DIRECTORY UK 305 x (

06-5523901; St George’s x (

before arriv- before 5523901; diodoros@ x (

information centre DIRECTORY •• Work 06-4636147; www.britishcouncil x (

runs the other top language runs the other top language in Madaba invites volunteers to volunteers invites in Madaba American Language Center recruits teachers from the UK with a teachers recruits A few restaurants have a ‘family section’ a ‘family have restaurants A few The If you are keen to stay keen in Jordan for a If you are RSA Preparatory Certificate (the Diploma RSA Preparatory or equivalent and at least two is preferred) For details contact work experience. years’ the British Council 0161-9577755; www.britishcouncil.org) Language Teaching Language Teaching open opportunities are English-teaching to those with TOEFL qualifications. The British Council .org.jo) where local and foreign women, unaccom- foreign local and where In some of can eatpanied by men, in peace. is only and coffeehouses there the local bars using these try to avoid one toilet, so (same Midrange advice goes travellers!). for male and cafés in Amman almost always bars ). For an idea of p111 welcome women (see as a the difficulties eating in restaurants of . p81 text, solo woman, see the boxed WORK work casual in the way of is not much There in hot demand jobs are in Jordan as all such If you and Iraqi refugees. from Palestinian in the coun- in staying longer interested are skill or qualification a specific try and have leav- work before then it’s best to apply for employer will be That way, your ing home. for paying for your air ticket responsible and will sponsor your work permit. Diving or divemasters instructors Qualified dive div- the of work at one to get may be able in Aqaba, particularly during ing centres Keep peak season (September to March). hotly in mind, however, that positions are by locals. contested quite permissible for Western women to to women Western for permissible quite make may the stares places in some enter, uncomfortable. you feel teach English in his school in return for for in return English in his school teach www.alc.edu.jo) wanadoo.jo) ing in Jordan. Casual vacancies within Jor- your CV to dan occasionally arise: address Centre Manager. the Teaching Innocent at the whole year, Father Church Pilgrim House school. Like the British Council, teachers are are the British Council, teachers Like school. arrival in Jordan. before mostly recruited especially for Halla Line/tourism 80022228) x (

Most toiletries are easily found in Jor- Most toiletries are

Lastly, some advice for single female Lastly, female some advice for single apparently implies that you’ve had sex had sex implies that you’ve apparently recently! rations of undying love from Jordanian from undying love rations of guides, even (and especially) the hand- some ones! bathrooms (particularly cigarette holes holes bathrooms (particularly cigarette in curtains). ‘accidental’room door in case late- of night intrusions. if possible. sites archaeological large of regions mote – including Siq Al-Barid as Petra such – and Jerash. (Little Petra) private or serviceprivate taxi. know – wearing dark glasses can help. spectability eyes, even if you’re in Arab your children/ of not married; a photo it. will clinch or fake) husband (real hair, as this Don’t go outside with wet Be decla- circumspect about particularly hotel locked against your Place a chair hotel. for a better a little more Pay Check for peep holes in rooms and Check for peep holes in rooms and Be alone to re- cautious when venturing to a woman On public transport, sit next front seat Don’t sit in the a chartered of A wedding ring will add to your re- eye contact with any man you don’t Avoid unaccompanied. Don’t go to a bar

tourists; it is staffed by English-speaking police officers. not always readily dan, though tampons are You should bring your own con- available. special medications. and any traceptives Restaurants, Bars & Coffeehouses Restaurants, Bars & Coffeehouses usu- as coffeehouses are Some places such ally seen as a male preserve. Although it’s off) try not to swear trick, but should do the or lose you will lose or your temper public theory, the In the bargain. sympathy into in greater harassed getting are of chances con- fewer are there where hotels budget comes and goes.trols on who readers: from single female travellers lonelyplanet.com complaints number If you suffer serious harassment go to a police station or tourist-police booth; the The can be found at most tourist sites. latter seri- reports tourist police in Jordan take the need arise,ously. Should do not hesi- to call the nationwide tate DIRECTORY danian people,butifyouhave aspecialist RSCN centres. Formore the information,contact such asworkinginthevisitor of services generally offered inreturn foravariety program.Boardandlodgingarevoluntary onathree-monthcountry’s nature reserves opportunities toworkwithinsomeof the dan’s ecologicalprojects, there are limited If youare keen tolearnmore about Jor- Work Volunteer see further details p189 . British Counciland‘pocket money’. For lessonsrunbythe participation inevening board andkeep, private Arabiclessons, 306 © LonelyPlanetPublications These postsareThese bestfilledbylocalJor- DIRECTORY ••Work DIRECTORY (www.rscn.org.jo). www.volunteerabroad.com/jordan.cfm. three months inadvance. to arrange thematleast something.Contact education, relief orhealth,youmaybeable and have aparticularprofessional skillin commitments, ratherthanjustafew weeks) for afew months (theyprefer longer-term program,butifyouareunteer inJordan (UNRWA; Map (UNRWA; Map p99 ; mation office of the refugees thepublicinfor- shouldcontact may strike itlucky. you skill inmanagement orconservation, meisani, Amman) St,Sh- binAbdullah unrwa.org; Al-ZubeidBldg, Mustapha For more opportunities,see volunteer Those hopingtoworkwithPalestinianThose . There isnoorganised vol- x 06-5609100, ext 165;jorpio@ 06-5609100, ext UN Relief &WorksAgency UN Relief lonelyplanet.com

© Lonely Planet Publications 307 Transport ritories; or by taking a boat across the Red Sea to Nuweiba in Egypt. As Amman is well CONTENTS connected with other Arab countries, it’s also possible to combine a trip with Dubai Getting There & Away 307 (an increasingly important world destina- Entering the Country 307 tion) in the UAE, and other Gulf capitals. Air 307 Please note that prices in this chapter are

Land 309 likely to change due to the rapid fluctua- TRANSPORT Sea 314 tions in fuel costs at the time of writing. Tours 314 Getting Around 315 ENTERING THE COUNTRY Air 315 Entering Jordan is straightforward whether Bicycle 315 by air, land or sea, with visas (see p302 ) Bus 317 and money-exchange facilities available at Car & Motorcycle 317 all borders. Hitching 322 Local Transport 322 Passport Tours 323 Your passport should be valid for at least six months after you arrive in Jordan. Always carry your passport with you when travel- GETTING THERE & AWAY ling around sensitive areas such as near the border of Israel and the Palestinian Territo- Ever since Burckhardt rediscovered Petra ries, along the Dead Sea Highway and roads for the Western world in the 19th century, linking the Dead Sea Highway to interior tourists have been finding ways of visit- towns. Checkpoints and passport checks ing this part of the Middle East. For the are common in all these areas. modern-day visitor, this means that there are plenty of well-established and efficient AIR ways of both getting to Jordan (often on Airports & Airlines direct flights) and visiting the main sights Queen Alia International Airport (x06-4453187; of interest while there. www.qaia.gov.jo), about 35km south of Amman, As Jordan is a relatively small country, is the country’s main gateway. A sign reads: some people choose to combine their trip ‘No one likes to wait, we know, but there with visits to neighbouring countries. This is are great things ahead.’ This is heartening possible by flying from Amman to regional because the airport is pretty uninspiring at capitals; by crossing Jordan’s land borders present. There are two terminals: Terminal 1 with Syria and Israel and the Palestinian Ter- is used for most Royal Jordanian flights and Terminal 2 is used by other airlines. The terminals are within easy walking distance, THINGS CHANGE... on opposite sides of the airport road. Both The information in this chapter is particu- terminals have ATMs, foreign exchange larly vulnerable to change. Check directly counters, a post office and left-luggage with the airline or a travel agent to make counter. The departure lounge has a reason- sure you understand how a fare (and ticket able café; there is also a good range of gift you may buy) works and be aware of the items, books, Arabic sweets and Dead Sea security requirements for international products for sale in the duty-free section. travel. Shop carefully. The details given in Alia Hotel (x06-451000; www.aliahoteljordan this chapter should be regarded as pointers .com; s/d JD70/85), the only airport hotel, is 2km and are not a substitute for your own careful, from the airport terminal. up-to-date research. The only other international airport is at Aqaba where some international carriers TRANSPORT www.emirates.com; hubDubai) Air France have inAmman: offices from AmmantoAqaba (twicedaily). danian, hassmallerplanesforshort flights and all Middle East capitals. capitals. and allMiddleEast rect tomostmajor flights citiesinEurope airline withagoodsafety record. Ithasdi- Qatar Airways Airlines Lufthansa Kuwait Airways KLM Gulf Air Emirates Airways British stop here, too. and occasionalcharter fromEurope flights inEgyptel-Sheikh are handled fromhere stop enroute toSharm toAmman.Flights 308 .gulfairco.com; hubBahrain) www.ba.com; hubHeathrow,London) .royalwings.com.jo) Centre, Shmeisani,Amman) p87; 690144; www.kuwait-airways.com; hubKuwaitCity) 690144; www.kuwait-airways.com; www.airfrance.com; hub Charles de Gaulle, Paris) hubCharlesdeGaulle, www.airfrance.com; x 684526; www.qatarairways.com; hubDoha) .klm.com; hubAmsterdam) The followingairlinesflytoJordanand The nationalairline, tion over awholeyear. contribute asmuchtoclimate changeasanaverage consump- household’sgasandelectricity The statisticsare areturn frightening: flightbetweenEurope two peopletaking andtheUSwill they allowustotravel, butbecausetheyrelease greenhouse gaseshighintotheatmosphere. change) butplanesare farandawaytheworstoffenders, notjustbecauseofthesheerdistances and authortravel. thecarbon-offset schemerun byclimatecare.org.supports LonelyPlanet offsets allofits staff andUganda. Kazakhstan initiativesother climate-friendly inthedeveloping inIndia,Honduras, world–includingprojects greenhouse gasestheyare responsible forwithcontributionstoenergy-saving and projects Climatecare.org andotherwebsites use‘carboncalculators’thatallowjetsetters tooffset the Carbon Offset Schemes Pretty muchevery formofmotortravel generates CO Flying &Climate Change efit, butbelieves weallhave aresponsibility onglobalwarming. tolimitourpersonalimpact fastest-growing contributortotheproblem. LonelyPlanetregards travel, overall, asaglobalben- Climate changeisaseriousthreat totheecosystems thathumansrely upon,and air travel isthe CLIMATE CHANGE &TRAVEL 06-601744; www.lufthansa.com; hubFrankfurt) 06-601744; www.lufthansa.com; x GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING (airline code KL; Map (airline codeKL;Map p94 ; For more informationcheckout ourwebsite: lonelyplanet.com. inthetravel industry,Lonely Planet,together withRoughGuidesandotherconcerned partners (airline code GF; Map (airline codeGF;Map p90 ; 06-5678321; www.rja.com.jo; 9thfl,HousingBank 06-5678321; www.rja.com.jo; (airline code EK; Map (airline codeEK;Map p90 ; (airline code AF; Map (airline codeAF;Map p99 ; (airline code QR; Map (airline codeQR;Map p99 ; (airline code BA; Map (airline codeBA;Map p87 ; (airline code KU; Map (airline codeKU;Map p99 ; , asubsidiaryof RoyalJor- (airline code LH; Map (airline codeLH;Map p99 ; , isawell-established x Royal Jordanian x 06-655267; www x Royal Wings x 06-653613; www 06-643341; 06-666055; x x x 06- 828801; 06-

(www (Map (Map 659102; www.turkishairlines.com; hub 659102; www.turkishairlines.com; Jordan; www.cheaptickets.co.uk isanother discounted onlinetickets fromEuropeto .con nections.be andwww.airstop.be for Readers have alsorecommended www Last Minute Travelocity Orbitz Expedia Cheap Tickets hotel-booking andcar-hire services: agencies provide avarietyof e-ticketing, onlineagencies.dan through Thefollowing It isoften cheaper tobuyanairticket toJor- ONLINE BOOKINGAGENCIES departure. atleast72hoursinternational flights before quire reconfirmation of onwardorreturn orDamascus(Syria). (Lebanon) of Beirut that allowyoutoflyintoAmman,butout gust). Someairlinesoffer ‘open-jaw’ tickets ber toFebruary andmid-May toendof Au- internet during (Novem- non-peakseasons but specialoffers are often available onthe Jordan isnotacheap destinationtoflyinto, Tickets Airlines Turkish 2 A few GulfAir,stillre- airlines,notably (themaincauseofhuman-inducedclimate (www.orbitz.com) (www.expedia.com) (www.travelocity.com) (www.lastminute.com) (www.cheaptickets.com) (airline code TK; Map (airline codeTK;Map p90 ; lonelyplanet.com İ stanbul) x 06- TRANSPORT 309 0207-6161000; www 08-92235656; www.vdm 08-25000747; www x x x ( ( ( 1866-2469762; www.travelcuts.com) 1866-2469762; www.travelcuts.com) 0207-9383366; www.trailfinders.com) 0207-9383366; www.trailfinders.com) 06-441111; www.cts.it) A student and 800-7814040; www.statravel.com) Has x x x ( ( x ( ( (www.statravel.com) Branches across Europe. GETTING •• Land AWAY & THERE Recommended agencies in the USA and Recommended agencies Air Canada and Royal Jordanian offer Air Canada and Royal Jordanian offer Recommended agencies in Europe for in Europe for Recommended agencies Canada’s national student travel agency with offices in all major cities. .com) Branches across France. offices throughout USA. youth specialist in Italy. .nouvelles-frontieres.fr) Branches across France. Branches across .nouvelles-frontieres.fr) Canada: Travel STA LAND Jordan by land from Syria It’s easy to reach Territories. or from Israel and the Palestinian (and tran- Saudi Arabia of residents Foreign no who can show they have sit passengers flights, via London or Frankfurt, from Can- ada to Amman. Travel CUTS discount fares: CTS Viaggi Nouvelles Frontières Travel STA Trailfinders Voyages Jules Vernes agency, operating charter UK-based flights to .vjv.co.uk) Aqaba; they may sell extra seats to the public. Voyageurs du Monde USA & Canada flights between Royal Jordanian has direct Amman and New York, Chicago and De- flights with troit, with onward code-share America West. Most flights, however, require (London for aircraft in Europe of a change for Delta/Air France British Airways, Paris for Northwest/KLM). and Amsterdam connections can be made Alternatively, through as Dubai (UAE), Gulf cities, such (Bahrain) (Qatar). or Doha Manama Eastern countries) from Jordan if you have Eastern if you have from Jordan countries) a visa stamp Israel from in your passport – see boxed Territories and the Palestinian text, . p312 EuropeUK & Continental airlines and other regional National carriers flights direct the UK) offer as BMI in (such Amster- from London, Paris, to Amman hubs for the major dam and Frankfurt – continental in Europe. fares discounted from other also available flights are Direct cities. European capital and regional A popular agency in the UK. 212-2326300; . x (

02-359 0200; www.eptours Israel Student Travel x (

Orion-Tour 03-7777316; www.issta.com; 128 03-7777316; www.issta.com; is recommended. 800 243 544; www.flightcentre x 133 133; www.flightcentre.com.au) 1300 780 212; www.trailfinders.com.au) 134 782; www.statravel.com.au) 508 782 872; www.statravel.co.nz) x x ( ( . There’s also a branch in Jeru- also a branch . There’s x (ISSTA; (ISSTA; 02-6252799; 1 HaNevi’im St) x x (

( ( x ( stanbul there are lots of travel agen- travel lots of are stanbul there İ

just outside Al-Ma’adi metro station. just outside Al-Ma’adi DEPARTURE TAX TAX DEPARTURE is JD5. Jordan’s departuretax for foreigners leaving by air, the departure tax is If you are in the ticketgenerally included price. The area around Midan Tahrir in Cairo is around Midan Tahrir The area In Amman, the best places to start look- try the Aviv, In Tel Gulf Air and Emirates fly from Sydney fly Gulf Air and Emirates

It is important to remember that you that you It is important to remember In Egypt Tours Panorama Ben Yehuda St) Ben Yehuda .co.nz) teeming with travel agencies. One of the best One of agencies. teeming with travel is salem

Association Middle East Middle East flights from Amman to regular are There not par- capitals. Flights are other regional however, but specials over ticularly cheap, are Islamic weekend the Thursday/Friday sometimes available. along Al- the agencies are ing for air tickets Al-Hussein St, near the flyover. Malek STA Travel STA Recommended agencies in New ZealandRecommended agencies for discount fares: Flight Centre STA Travel STA Trailfinders and Melbourne and sometimes offer open- offer and sometimes and Melbourne to other Middle East destina- jaw tickets in Australia tions. Recommended agencies for discount fares: Flight Centre There are no direct flightsbetween Aus- no direct are There via flightstralasia and Jordan. Most travel capitals or through hubs in Southeast Asian the Middle East. Australia & New Zealand Australia & New Zealand reliable agency specialising in airfares from in airfares specialising agency reliable UK to Jordan. lonelyplanet.com .com) www.oriontour.com; Halaskargaziwww.oriontour.com; Caddesi 284/3, Marmara Apartimani, Sisli 80220) cannot enter Syria (and some other Middle cannot enter cies on the northern side of Divan Yolu Yolu Divan cies on the northern side of them specialising in in Sultanahmet, all of air tickets. budget TRANSPORT travelling onthat sideof the border. should refer tothemas such onlywhen in IsraelandthePalestinian Territories; you Bridge, AllenbyBridge andYitzhak Rabin crossings are knownrespectively asJordan border and WadiArabainthesouth.These Bridge Amman, near north, KingHussein to foreigners Bridge –Sheikh inthe Hussein ritories, three bordercrossingshave opened Jordan andIsraelthePalestinian Ter- Since thehistoric1994peacetreaty between Israel &thePalestinianTerritories notorious ‘Sunnitriangle’. the dangerous through journey,however, Amman. Thisiscurrently anextremely Karama–Tarbil borderpost,330kmfrom theal- inAmman.Theyuse bus station andAbdali Baghdad gauntlet between runthe taxis present. Occasional service Travel toIraqisnotrecommended at Iraq theboxedIf usingthisroute, see text, p303 . there. Thewholetriptakes about1½hours. tion andtake abustoeither borderfrom from Yitzhak orTaba Rabin toEilatbussta- border. Alternatively, youcantake ataxi Yitzhak andTaba Rabin ontheEgyptian Palestinian Territories side)andbetween (known asYitzhak ontheIsraeliand Rabin Aqaba andtheWadiArababordercrossing stigma before makingadecision). text, p312 , regarding theIsraeliborder-stamp Palestinian Territories (butread theboxed totravelhowever, overland viaIsraelandthe by boat( p314 ). It’squicker andcheaper, Most peopletravel JordanandEgypt between Egypt countriesintheboxedEastern text, p303 . forotherMiddle visas about obtaining Syria, inparticular,read theinformation stipulations:ifyou’revisa intending tovisit tle more planningonaccountof certain p318). (see in bringingyourowncarormotorcycle there although taxi, isnoproblem service Visas, countries,see rival fromthese p302 . land. Forinformationregarding onar- visas text, p303 ) are alsoabletoenter Jordanby other wayof reaching theboxed Jordan –see 310 If you choose this route, taxis run between thisroute, runbetween If youchoose taxis JordanbylandrequiresLeaving alit- Most travellers arrive inJordanbybusor GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING sunset Saturday). sunset Jewish Fridayand Shabbat sunset (between tinian Territories runduringthe doesn’t as publictransportinIsraelandthePales- day orSaturday,arrive attheborderearly Eid al-Fitr(see p295 ). of YomKippurandtheIslamicholidayof this Known inArabicas‘Jisral-Malek Hussein’, Bridge) King HusseinBridge Crossing(Allenby ist informationcounter three borders there’s apostoffice anda duty-free shops.OntheJordaniansideof all are inflated), places toeatanddrink, mended forlarge sumsascommissions are moneychanging facilities(notrecom- suggest onthemap. AmmanandJerusalembetween thatitmay Bridge, isnotthequicknip King Hussein themostfrequentedThis isbecause border, crossings before deciding which onetouse. It’s worth reading about each of theborder BORDER CROSSINGS a take aprivate caracrossthisborder. bag checks. It’snotpossibletowalk,hitch or eternity withrepeated stopsforpassportand estinian Territories sideisshort, itlasts an therideto the IsraeliandPal-and although at6.30am. bus(JD8) daily JETT 45minutes) or there’sBridge (JD4, asingle toKingHusseinWahadat) busstation fromAmman’sAbdali taxi (or a service a that’s not running,abusto Jericho andthen Alternatively, take abustoJerusalem or,if for thecar)toJerusalem’s DamascusGate. 3pm whendelaysare more common. measures;on Israelisecurity avoid 11amto ing cantake uptothree hours, depending border ineitherdirection isthatthecross- this border).Afurtherissue whenusingthis work (see p302 considerationsat forvisa cities, providing theyhave paper- theright lers themostdirect thetwo route between from Jerusalem. As such, itoffers travel- & Sat) sherut sherut Borders are ontheJewish closed holiday If you’re departingfromJordanonaFri- On bothsidesof allthree borders there To get toJerusalem fromtheborder, take thetwoborders gobetween (JD2) Buses To reach thisborderfromAmman,take border crossing is only40kmfromAmmanand30km toDamascus Gate. (Israelishared aroundUS$40 taxi; ( h

( 8am-6pm Sun-Thu, to noonFri h 8am-2pm, closedFri) lonelyplanet.com tour- . TRANSPORT

311 sherut 6.30am-10pm 6.30am-10pm h (

in the south of the in the south of border crossing GETTING •• Land AWAY & THERE In the other direction, if you’re travelling travelling if you’re In the other direction, from Jerusalem and you want to skip Eilat, from Jerusalem you out at the turn-off to let ask the driver for the border, a short walk away. The exit At the Jordanian border tax is 68NIS here. a taxitake into Aqaba (JD5, or 15 minutes) (around to Petra direct a taxinegotiate fare or to Wadi Rum (around JD40, two hours) JD18, one hour). country links Aqaba to Eilat. To reach there there to Eilat. To reach country links Aqaba a taxifrom Aqaba, take (JD5, 15 minutes). Once at the border you can walk across. From the border, buses run to central Eilat, only 2km away. All in all, Aqaba to Eilat an hour. about takes BUS Several regularly now cities in Jordan are to cities in Israel and the Palestinian linked be- bus directly by Travelling Territories. the hassle saves Aviv tween Amman and Tel This handy This there are regular connections to Amman), connections to Amman), regular are there (North ash-Shamaliyyeh go to Shuneh or service by private Shuna) taxi, or walk (3km) to the main road and flag down a minibus or service taxi. Wadi Araba Crossing (Yitzhak Rabin – formerly known as Arava) Sun-Thu, 8am-8pm Fri & Sat) Sun-Thu, Kerryn Burgess Kerryn 6.30am-10pm Sun-Thu, 8am- 6.30am-10pm Sun-Thu, h (

crossing links northern Jordan with Beit

Travelling in the other direction (from Israel and the Palestinian Territories into Jordan) is into Jordan) is Territories the Palestinian (from Israel and in the other direction Travelling border A DAY OUT AT THE BORDER CROSSING CROSSING BORDER THE AT OUT A DAY Travelling from Jordan to Israel via the King Hussein Bridge border crossing (known as the Al- border crossing (known to Israel via the King from Jordan Bridge Hussein Travelling hours from the time you at least three Allow consuming. crossing in Israel) is time lenby Bridge waiting into a you’re Jordan side until the time of buildings on the at the cluster arrive usually quicker. Nevertheless, we suggest you think twice before deciding to make a ‘day trip’ deciding to make a ‘day trip’ Nevertheless, suggest you think twice before we usually quicker. unless you don’t mind spending a on the other side of the border, to Jerusalem or elsewhere good portion of the day at the crossing. at Lonely Planet. commissioning editor for the Middle East is the Kerryn Burgess (Israeli shared taxi) on the Israel and Palestinian Territories side. On the Jordan side, things are side, things are On the Jordan side. Territories and Palestinian taxi) on the Israel (Israeli shared for the bus that takes to wait for up to an hour you You may have straightforward. relatively distance is short, The and searched several the bus will be stopped but itself. across the border pen’ while the bus and stand in a ‘holding the bus you’ll be asked least once, to leave At times. is searched and your passport is checked large expect yet again. On the Israeli side, to negotiate to go next. ask someone If in doubt, lack of signage about where crowds, chaotic queues and don’t expect or anyone official to be available the crossing before; from the queue who’s done Expect be questioned to be X-rayed. from your luggage, which must helpful. You’ll be separated for visiting Israel. It happens to everyone. officials about your reasons at length by immigration to immigration number handy to provide their telephone Israel, have If you know any Israelis in won’t necessarily make contact, They it can help smooth the way for you anyway. but officials. . p312 text, the boxed to read Be sure To reach this border from Irbid, regu- To reach a take in the other direction, If travelling From the Jordanian side, either wait for a If travelling in the other direction, an Is- in the other direction, If travelling She’an in Galilee, 6km away. She’an lar service the West bus station taxis leave for the border (JD1, From 45 minutes). to the it’s a 2km walk (or hitch) the bridge to take have you Israeli side, from where a taxi to the Beit bus station for She’an onward connections inside Israel and the Territories. Palestinian at Beit and change She’an bus to Tiberias, take (6km from the border). From there, another bus to the Israeli border (arrive buses). After few are early because there Israeli passport formalities and payment of exit tax (70NIS), a compulsory bus takes you to the Jordanian side. taxi to Irbid (from where minibus or shared Known in Arabic as ‘Jisr Sheikh Hussein’, in Arabic as ‘Jisr Sheikh Known this Sheikh Hussein Bridge Crossing (Jordan Crossing (Jordan Sheikh Hussein Bridge Bridge) lonelyplanet.com raeli exit tax of 127NIS (around US$29, com- raeli exit tax of is other borders) to around 70NIS at pared to Israel, keep to return If you intend payable. – you willthe Jordanian entrance form safe the border. it on exiting to present have 8pm Fri & Sat) TRANSPORT sein Bridge (JD8, onehour, 6.30am). Bridgesein (JD8, estinian Territories, thebor- youmust use If you’re driving from Israeland the Pal- CAR &MOTORCYCLE x p87; (Map sengers toclearcustomsandimmigration. pendently, andyou’llhave towaitforallpas- but it’smore expensive thancrossinginde- of getting to/fromtheborders onyourown, 312 one Therein advancefromthebusstation. is parture timesandbook(andcollect)tickets schedules change frequently, socheck de- Bridge.the borderatSheikh Hussein Bus cross daily exceptSaturdayat8.30am.Buses hours), departing seven Nazareth (JD20, six hours), Haifa hours) and seven (JD20, fice at7thCircle( p116 ) toTel Aviv (JD25, From Amman, some point. and ifyoutrytosidestep yourintentions thoserules, you canexpect tobemisinterpreted at bottom lineisthattherestrictions are thatsomeArabcountriesmake inplaceforapurpose East,itmaybemetwithcynicismandevenembassy inanycountrytheMiddle rejection. The stamp inyour there’s is‘lost’toyour littleyoucando.passport, thatyourpassport Ifyoureport Syria, Lebanon, Iran,SaudiArabia,LibyaandYemen. IfyougetanIsraeliorJordanianexitentry For whichcountries intheMiddle Eastisitaproblem? reality theydon’tusuallylookforanoffending stamp. and Omanwillrefuse butin youentryifhave evidenceofavisittoIsraelinyourpassport, lem whenentering Jordan,Egypt, Turkey, Tunisia Qatar,theUAE andMorocco. Bahrain, Officially, Is anIsraelistampaproblemwhentryingtoenter mostArabcountries? the Palestinian Territories attheendofyourtrip. orplan to visitIsraelandJordanian officialstostampapieceofpaperinstead ofyour passport; HusseinBridgebordercrossingwithamultipleentryvisaandaskthe throughKing and depart So howdoIgetroundthatproblem? in JordanwithoutanyevidenceofaJordanianvisaextension. suchassixweeks border withJordanforhavingunexplainedperiodsoftimeintheirpassport, the Palestinian Territories inthemeantime. Indeed,travellers have beenturnedawayfromSyria’s it willbeobvioustotheSyrianauthorities,forexample,thatyoumusthave beeninIsraeland stamp fromoneborderandanentrydated aweeklater fromadifferent borderinJordan, So there’s noproblemthen? paper instead ofyourpassport. When youenter orleave Israel,youcanaskimmigrationofficialstostampaseparate pieceof So whatcanIdoifplantocombinemyvisitJordanwithatrip toIsraelandSyria? number ofcountriesintheregion, includingSyria. (suchasanentryorexitstampfromabordercrossing)willbaryouentering apassport between ArabcountriesandtheJewishstate ofIsrael,anyevidenceavisittoIsraelinyour I’ve never heardofthisIsraelistampbusiness–what’sitallabout? frequently questions. asked Our mailbagsare fullofquestionsabouttheinfamous‘Israelistampstigma’.Here are afew ISRAELI BORDER-STAMP STIGMA 06-5854679; www.jett.com.jo) 06-5854679; www.jett.com.jo) GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING Jordan Express Tourist Transport Tourist Jordan Express x 06-5813427) Trust International Transport Trust International has buses fromitsof- hasbuses bus toKingHus- That depends on where Ifyouhave, yougotonext. say,anexit (JETT; Map Map (JETT; p99 ; You can fly into and out of Ben-Gurion airport; enterYou canflyintoandoutofBen-Gurionairport;

bus station. Jeddah andRiyadhfromAmman’sAbdali toandfrom companiesrunservices Several Aqaba, andfurthereastatAl-Mudawwara. crossing pointsare Ad-Durra,southof Al-Umari, southof Azraq.Theothertwo main landroute forpublictransportisat and cheaper to take a direct bus or service and cheaper totake adirect busor service Ammanand Damascusit’s quickertween dan andSyria,but ifyoutravel directly be- It’s relatively simple totravel Jor- between Syria text, p303 , fordetails. theboxed feat –see Arabia isavery difficult toSaudi atransitvisa, even avisa, Getting Saudi Arabia Wadi Araba. Bridge order crossingsatSheikh Hussein If youare thenthe eligibleforavisa, Given thetensions No, it’snotaprob- lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT

313 Hejaz Railway (shared taxis) (shared is only open servees 06-4895413) x (

on Monday and Thursday at on Monday and Thursday GETTING •• Land AWAY & THERE ticket office From Amman, service taxis for Damas- The Palace Hotel in Amman ( p106 ) of- p106 in Amman ( Hotel The Palace from 7am on the morning of departure, departure, from 7am on the morning of although find someone around you may the station, a take at other times. To reach service taxi from Raghadan bus station, or taxia private (around JD1). 8am, but few travellers go this way as the go this way as the travellers 8am, but few dawdling service all day, with a change takes The quaint old sta- trains at the border. of I St, about 2.5km tion is on King Abdullah Raghadaneast of bus station in Amman. The cus (‘ash-Sham’ in Arabic) leave from the in Arabic) leave cus (‘ash-Sham’ bus station Abdali or lower end of eastern from ); from Damascus, they leave p90 (Map The trip costs around Garage. Baramke about three JD10 from Amman and takes Servicehours. between Da- taxis also travel mascus and Irbid’s south bus station (JD5, 2½ hours). Elsewhere in the Middle East For other destinations in the Middle East, need time, patience and, most im- travellers portantly, the necessary visas. Most trips to Damascus leave regularly throughout the regularly to Damascus leave than the buses, faster although day and are in the evening for to wait longer you’ll have time to taxis less take one to fill up. Service trains or busescross the border than be- to process, passengers fewer are cause there in helping experienced are and the drivers and customs with immigration passengers formalities. TRAIN train service Amman still leaves A biweekly for Damascus (JD3) along the (www.jhr.gov.jo) fers a minibus tour to Damascus, with stops tour to Damascus, a minibus fers You’ll need a and Shaba. Bosra in Jerash, can (which four passengers minimum of the necessity of be hard to assemble given arranging visas advance); the price is in around JD20 per person. SERVICE TAXI The enormous yellow eight hours). JETT’seight hours). terminal international bus station Amman. in is close to the Abdali so frequently changes The bus schedule (and and book departure times of check advance from in tickets) collect preferably the bus station.

bus trav- tourist office 06-5854679; www.jett , places to eat and x Jordan Express Tourist (JETT; Map p99 ; p99 (JETT; Map 8am-5pm Sat-Thu, to 2pm Fri) 8am-5pm Sat-Thu, You can also get direct transport between transport direct You can also get Both border crossings are efficient and are Both border crossings both bor- of On the Jordanian sides If you’re heading to Syria from Jordan, to Syria from Jordan, heading If you’re h .com.jo; Al-Malek al-Hussein St, Shmeisani) els between Amman and Damascus (JD7, seven twice daily in either direction. hours) bus to Aleppo (JD10, JETT also has a daily drink, and moneychangers (open most of (open most of drink, and moneychangers and Syr- dinars Jordanian the time) where ian pounds can be changed. Transport The air-conditioned The air-conditioned BUS Irbid or Amman and Damascus, without stopping in Ramtha. Ramtha (Der’a) Ramtha (Der’a) Ramtha is the border most commonly used visiting sights in northern by travellers and Umm Qais) and in Jordan (eg Jerash southern Syria (eg Ezra’a and Bosra ash- buses to Ramtha are from There Sham). station (JD1, two hours) Amman’s Abdali and Irbid (JD1). From Ramtha, service taxis to the border. and minibuses run regularly ask the immigration office on If hitching, the Jordanian side to flag down a vehicle for a lift to the Syrian border. Most service taxis between Amman and Damascus now use this crossing. If you’re coming from Syria and plan to visit eastern Jordan (eg Azraq), this border is useful for connections to Zarqa or Mafraq. Jabir (Nasib) Jabir (Nasib) ( There are border crossings with Syria at Syria at with border crossings are There known respec- They are Ramtha and Jabir. in Syria, but you as Der’a and Nasib tively only when to them as such should refer the border. on the Syrian side of travelling to drive intend If you open 24 hours. are between border Syria, the better Jordan and to cross is at Der’a–Ramtha. is a post office and there ders, BORDER CROSSINGS BORDER CROSSINGS taxi rather than negotiate local transport and transport local taxi negotiate rather than your own. on crossing formalities border ar- visa a Syrian before you get sure make ), p303 text, (seeriving in Jordan the boxed Istanbul, home country or in either in your Ankara or Cairo. lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT change socallthe Departure timesare often subjectto terminalpassenger just southof Aqaba. Nuweiba inEgypt, which leave fromthe your plans. boxed text, p303 before, fordetails making the the boatoronarrivalatNuweiba–see Egyptian eitheron can obtain touristvisas something more epic.Mostnationalities Mecca, youmayfindthejourneybecomes Egyptian pilgrimsreturning homefrom of Aqaba isabuzzwiththousands excitable your ticket. Duringhaj, when however, this isamatter of turningupandbuying short boatride. Atmosttimesof theyear borders withEgypt, thejourneyinvolves a onward journey.As Jordanhasnoland from Aqaba orfeasible aspartof your Visiting Egypt is bothapopularsidetrip SEA and priceschange frequently. aheadofoffice yourdeparture asschedules Nuweiba ferry ticket. CheckwiththeJETT in USdollars, andincludestheAqaba– in Amman.Thefare mustbepaid toCairo parting fromtheinternational busoffice (US$65),de- andCairo (JD20) to Beirut delays somostpeopleendupflying. involve long,hotjourneyswithfrustrating 314 2013891; www.abmaritime.com.jo/english) huge commission. but avoid travellers cheques, which attracta Jordanian sideoffers adecent exchange rate the terminals atAqaba andNuweiba. The ets. There are money-exchange facilities at tickets. It’snotpossibletobuyreturn tick- Nuweiba ataround2pmbutexpect delays. leaves paid forinUSdollars. Theservice US$50). all. Tickets costUS$60(children under12 leave Somedaysitdoesn’t at midnight. thatofficially leavesmore) carferry service 3.30pm. price. Thereturn ferry leaves Nuweibaat isnotincludedintheticket (JD5) tax Children under12payUS$55.Departure noon (exceptSaturday)andcostsUS$70. travelling. There are two main boat services toThere are twomainboatservices has occasionalthrough-services JETT You need toshowyourpassport tobuy You need Note thatfares fromNuweibamust be There isalsoaslower(three hours or The fastboat(onehour)leaves dailyat GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Sea GETTING passenger terminal before

( x 03- in Aqabaorarrange ataxi. or WadiRum,soyou’llhave toovernight Aqaba toolate forpublictransporttoPetra are travelling fromEgypt youwillarrive in inmind,ifyou rival atimmigration.Bear both directions andhandedbackonar- .martinrandall.com) Activities inDana,WadiRumandAqaba. Activities .atg-oxford.co.uk; 69-71BanburyRd,OxfordOX2 6PJ) UK EcoTours Desert Israel &thePalestinianTerritories Adventures Peregrine World Adventure Australia and itineraries. Jordan thatcanorganise individualtours and camelriding. holidaysthatinvolvebased somehiking countries,andactivity- Middle Eastern overland adventures thatcombineseveral ally dividedintocultural/historicaltours, Organised tours fromabroadare gener- TOURS Jordan Tourism Board North America BoardNorth Jordan Tourism Tours Archaeological USA Tribes Travel Randall Martin Traveller Imaginative Places High Explore Exodus &Kings Cox Group Travel Alternative Abercrombie andKent based inEilat. and4WDtours; ecotours.com) Specialises incamel,hiking world.com.au) NY 10016) A 14-day historical tour witharchaeologists. NY 10016)A14-dayhistorical Ave,.archaeologicaltrs.com; 271Madison suite904,NY, .peregrineadventures.com) Ten-day inWadiRum. andscramblingtrip hiking .imaginative-traveller.com) assorted tours. assorted 7335673; www.visitjordan.com) Professionally organised .abercrombiekent.co.uk) .co.uk) Passports are collected ontheboatin See See p323 of fordetails companiesinside ( ( x ( x x 017-28685971; www.tribes.co.uk) ( ( 0208-6755550; www.exodus.co.uk) 0845-0131537; www.explore.co.uk) x x 0114-2757500; www.highplaces.co.uk) ( 0207-8735000; www.coxandkings ( x x ( 972-52276575; www.desert ( x 02-89130755; www.adventure ( ( ( x x x x ( 1866-7405130; www x 0845-0778802; www 03-86014444; www 0208-7423355; www 0845-6182200; www 0186-5315678; www lonelyplanet.com ( x 1877- TRANSPORT 315 groups of kids kids groups of bably best to avoid bably best to avoid some GETTING •• Air AROUND Bernhard Gerber, Switzerland Gerber, Bernhard Other scenic routes are from the eastern from the eastern are Other scenic routes The King’s Highway is the most sce- There is no way to cycle along the to cycle along the is no way There King’s Highwaygetting without it in your guidebook read stoned. We but thought kids that leaving, before male adults stone three would not who trousers with beards and long wrong. looking angry. We were are And it’s not only but basically who try to stone you, for all hobby it’s becoming a major and 20… between three male children when children Cycle in the morning at school. are then there still undeterred, If you are plateau in the north down into the Jordan plateau the climbs back up – but don’t forget Valley tough long and on unremittingly again are the calf muscles. It’s pro nic route, but also the most physically but also the most physically nic route, demanding, especially as strong prevail- their toll. In ing north–south winds take public transport fact, you may want to take wide and steep Wadi across the extremely Karak, and Mujib valley between Madaba and between to Wadi Rum the turn-off steep, has ap- is very and Aqaba, which treacherous palling traffic and plenty of turns. the dull and busy Desert Highway, together the Dead of stretch with the Safi to Aqaba Sea Highway, is always hot and has which facilities. few very is some good news. Roads are generally generally are is some good news. Roads well are smooth and tourist attractions With some prepara- in English. signposted tion, and an occasional lift in a bus, cy- about 40km a day. Most clists can average placed less conveniently sights are major than a day’s ride apart, heading south from the Syrian border, ie Irbid–Amman– Madaba–Karak–Dana–Petra–Ma’an–Wadi accom- All theseRum–Aqaba. places have so some kind and restaurants, modation of no need sleeping to carry tents, bags there’s and cooking equipment. Most other attrac- on day trips, by tions can be easily visited transport. or public bike are hard come by because so few locals ride locals ride come by because hard so few are enough that isn’t If off, to put you bikes. throwing mightthen the stone be: , a subsidi- (www.royalwings.com.jo)

It ought to be said that cycling in Jordan Royal Wings There is only one domestic flight is only one domestic flight There a serviceChartering or pri- taxi (white)

ary of Royal Jordanian, flies daily between ary of for Aqaba and Amman. You can buy tickets or Royal agency either airline at any travel for details. p259 SeeJordanian office. wouldn’t be a first choice for everybody: for everybody: choice wouldn’t be a first places to stop along the high- few are there are ways; the traffic drivers is unpredictable; the cities and not used to cyclists; many of are as Amman and Karak, main towns, such parts steep hills; and spare sprinkled over BICYCLE folly depending Cycling can be fun or sheer to May From March year. on the time of the best are and September to November have – you won’t on your bike times to get to battle with the stifling summer heat or winds. winter the bitter AIR op- is only one domestic air route, There Royal Jordanian twice daily be- by erated tween (JD35 Amman and Aqaba one way, one hour). (Amman to Aqaba) and no internal public and no internal (Amman to Aqaba) train service, in Jordan so public transport buses/mini-comprises of a combination buses, service taxis taxis. and private and taxivate (yellow) is another alternative adds untold value to the the driver often trip by giving you local information and public transport is cultural insights. Where another is hitching or nonexistent, limited around. getting way of Jordan is a relatively small country, mak- small country, relatively Jordan is a from the 430km to drive ing it possible the Saudi in the north to the Syrian border – hours five south in just over border in the isn’t everything. size Most of course but of along the main attractions lie not Jordan’s as the Desert (such Highway)arteries but moun- along the spectacular switchbacked historical, am- the north or the tain roads of if such, Highway.bling and rural King’s As your trip to the most of you want to make Jordan, you need factor in a little more to than the distancetime for your journey on the map may indicate. GETTING AROUND GETTING AROUND lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT 316 Railway. forget usingtheHejaz in thesameday,youcan to Petra fromDamascus seem, ifyouwanttoget As romanticasitmay ineitherdirection. start requiresThis trip anearly via Amman Petra &Damascus on thisroute. border delaysinvolved zone. There are less via Aqabafree-trade visa asyou’llbeentering paying foraJordanian may beexempt from inJordan,you arriving own vehiclethisway.If You cantravelwithyour via Aqaba&Eilat Petra &Jerusalem through thiscrossing. yourowncar can’t take the border. Notethatyou Beware oflongdelaysat to Israelinyourpassport. of avoid evidence you maybeableto Taking thisroutemeans West Bank via Amman&the Petra &Jerusalem Between Summary of Transport Approx. Time More Information More Time Approx. SummaryofTransport Between relevant border. Note refer thatnamesinbrackets tothenameofborder crossing ontheothersideof howfaryoucangetinasingledayonpublictransport. tofindoutexactly summary oftransport Wondering ifyoucangetfromJerusalemtoPetra inonedayorviceversa? Checkthefollowing PUBLIC TRANSPORTINAHURRY GETTING AROUND •• Public Transport inaHurry AROUND••Public Transport GETTING a visit spr ftesrie BorderCrossing p313 3hours Visas p302 Transport p115 Visas p303 bustoPetra JETT 4hours oftheservice) as part (the buswaitsforyouto crosstheborder BorderCrossing p311 busstationinAmman bustoJETT BorderCrossing JETT p313 Transport p115 From Damascus oftheservice) to crosstheborderaspart 15mins 4hours 2½hours 3hours bustoDamascus (thebuswaitsforyou JETT Transport busstation) (or bustoWahadat p259 busstationinAmman bustoJETT JETT From Petra Visas p302 BorderCrossings 5hours p311 orbustoPetra Share-taxi 30mins 15mins toAqaba Share-taxi day) Walk acrosstheborder(openevery 15mins (Wadi Araba)border orbustoYitzhakRabin Share-taxi 5hours Visas p303 Bus toEilat’sbusstation Transport From Jerusalem p217 15mins DamascusGate Bus toJerusalem’s 30mins 2½hours orbustoEilat Share-taxi Visas p302 day) Walk acrosstheborder(openevery border Rabin) (Yitzhak orbustoWadiAraba Share-taxi Bus toAqaba(mainbusstation) 3hours From Petra BorderCrossings p310 Transport p115 Change busesforfinallegtoPetra BorderCrossings p310 busstation) the bordertoAmman(Wahadat 1hour orbusfromtheJordaniansideof Share-taxi 3hourdelay 30mins &Sat) noon Fri Bus acrosstheborder(borderclosedby HusseinBridge) (King orbustoAllenbyBridge Share-taxi From Jerusalem Visas p303 Gate 30mins Transport p217 Damascus orbustoJerusalem’s Share-taxi 3hourdelay &Sat) noon Fri Bus acrosstheborder(borderclosedby 1hour 3hours (Allenby Bridge) HusseinBridge orbustoKing Share-taxi busstation Bus toAmman’sWahadat From Petra lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT

to 317 Trust Trust (Map p99 ;

06-5813427) 06-638110) JETT x x (Map p87 ;

(Map p90 ;

Hijazi operates the most comfort- operates GETTING •• Bus AROUND 06-5854679; www.jett.com.jo; Al-Malek al-Hussein St, Strictly speaking you don’t need an In- The national bus company Other reliable companies with regu- Other reliable to Aqaba, and Shmeisani, Amman) (IDP) to drive Driving Permit ternational in Jordan unless you plan on crossing any but it may help if you meet with borders, an accident. x CAR & MOTORCYCLE are and there drive place to Jordan is a great some spectacular linking the high routes below lying ground with the Jordan Valley, ). Indeed, p170 sea text, level (see the boxed you can many countries where aren’t there claim to be driving uphill to the sea,but on the Dead Seaif you’re Highway heading for the Red Sea, then Jordan is one of them! up passengers. Tickets should ideally be should ideally be Tickets up passengers. bought a day in advance from an office at point. the departure Irbid. International Transport lar services from Amman include able bus service It from Amman to Aqaba. also has services to King Hussein Bridge and Hammamat border crossing, Petra Ma’in. for for From St Catherine’s Mount (by land) From St Catherine’s Not possible in a day Not possible in a day (by land) From Petra Bus to Aqaba (main bus station) Share-taxi to Wadi Araba (Yitzhak Rabin) border Walk across border Share-taxi or bus to Taba 2½ hours Share-taxi to St Catherine’s Mount p259 Transport 15 mins 3 hours p303 15 mins Visas 30 mins p311 Border Crossing From Petra (by boat) From Petra bus station) Bus to Aqaba (main Share-taxi terminal to ferry or bus Nuweiba Boat at noon to Bus to Sharm El-Sheikh 2½ hours 30 mins From Nuweiba (by boat) p259 Transport p303 Visas 1 hour 2½ hours p314 Border Crossing (www.cycling-jordan.com)

Between Transport Summary of Approx. Time More Information Petra & St & St Petra Catherine’s Mount via Aqaba You can only get a visa for the Sinai Peninsula crossing so at the Taba if you want to travel further than Sharm El- Sheikh, this trip needs planning. some careful Petra & Sharm Sharm & Petra El-Sheikh via Aqaba & Nuweiba Sharm Note that from El-Sheikh or Nuweiba Petra to Wadi Rum or an overnight requires stop in Aqaba. The larger air-con buses offer a more a more buses offer air-con The larger Spare parts are not common in Jordan, so parts are Spare

tips before departure. tips before BUS the most common Public minibuses are transport for locals and visitors. form of when full, so normally only leave They in- are an hour or more waiting times of evitable, Tickets especially in rural areas. normally bought the bus. Standing on is are not usually allowed and some seat-shuffling that unaccom- place to ensure takes often do not sit men or women panied foreign sex. Locals the opposite of next to members off by rapping a signify that they want to get tour- coin on a side window. Overcharging ists on these except on routes buses is rare where to and from Wadi Musa (for Petra), you extra try to charge will probably drivers for ‘luggage’. servicespeedy and reliable because they sched- depart according to a fixed generally to pick ule and they don’t stop en route lonelyplanet.com carry a spare tyre, extra chain links, spokes, links, spokes, extra chain tyre, carry a spare kit and tool kit with two inner tubes, repair setspanner set. for a low-gear Also bring contain- water the hills and a couple of to a maximum confine your panniers ers; 15kg. It may be an idea to contact the of Cycling Association TRANSPORT age modernmotorcycle and itsproblems. chanics inJordanabletodealwiththeaver- motorcycles: there are precious few me- for Thisisespeciallythecase may need. will notalwaysbeable toget thehelpyou and somemechanical knowledge, asyou istration’. ‘customs fee’ of JD5for‘foreign carreg- JD35 (validforonemonth),plusanominal be obliged totake outlocalinsuranceof ferry terminal inNuweiba,Egypt) you’ll aboutalldocumentation. for details yourlocalautomobileassociation Contact is designedtoprevent car-import rackets. to carrywithyou,such asagearbox. This expensive spare partsthatyou’re planning tospecifyanyThe carnetwillalsoneed acts asatemporary waiver of importduty. effectively apassportfor thevehicle and a pers andliabilityinsurance. Youalsoneed thevehicle’syou willneed registration pa- If youare bringingyourownvehicle, then YourOwnVehicle Bringing 318 ROAD DISTANCES(KM) Carnet depassage endouane, Finally, bring a good set ofFinally, bringagoodset spare parts At theborders withJordan(andthe GETTING AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING Wadi Rum Wadi Musa(Petra) Umm Qais Tafila Safi Ramtha Madaba Ma'an King HusseinBridge Karak Jerash Irbid Bethany Azraq Aqaba Amman 182 368 155 396 297 242 170 279 78 22 32 83 73 55 Ajloun 57 95 118 290 103 328 230 180 115 135 212 56 51 40 89 32 Amman 94 367 252 370 290 408 415 189 425 180 116 325 410 40 Aqaba 97 152 205 370 132 135 143 317 266 160 385 289 119 141 which is Azraq 235 320 115 220 140 145 105 245 135 30 85 Bethany 35 109 202 380 313 267 198 294 115 38 25 Irbid 28 164 335 275 229 189 255 89 70 77 Jerash 40 (super) costs 620 fils. These pricesare(super) costs620fils.These lessfrequentlyslightly available petrol costsaround540filsperlitre, andthe a carnetifyouare bringingyourowncar. the timeof writing, (which hastobecollected byvehicle). At thecostof forallprices,even on effect hay forcing upinflationandcausingaknock- The volatilityof petrolpricesinJordan is Parts Fuel &Spare ment andregistration papers handy. your passport,drivinglicence,hire agree- show yourpassport.As such, alwayskeep youmayhavewithout anyfuss,though to Foreigners are generally waved through Jordan Valley. Alwaysstopatcheckpoints. ries, orontheroadsthatclimboutof the der withIsraelandthePalestinian Territo- nearthesensitive bor- Highway Dead Sea dan, particularlywhendrivingalongthe checkpointsYou maypassthrough inJor- Checkpoints 5850626, forcarnets4622467;www.racj.com) 257 142 215 151 154 205 63 50 86 Karak The 355 268 215 130 105 252 430 King Hussein Bridge 64 Royal Automobile ClubofJordan Royal Automobile 325 130 210 296 95 45 Ma'an 90 315 228 151 145 118 Madaba 85 370 316 296 240 Ramtha 40 245 140 225 benzin‘adi Safi 40 180 265 Tafila 81 405 305 lonelyplanet.com Umm Qais can arrange canarrange 100

Wadi Musa (Petra) (regular) mumtaz

( x 06- TRANSPORT 319 06-5929676, 079- x 06-5655581, 800-22270; www 06-5698131; www.budget.com; (Map p87 ; 06-5624191, 24hr line at airport x 06-5699420, 24hr 777-397405; www x x x (Map p87 ; (Map p87 ; (Map p87 ; (Map p87 ; Always read your contract carefully be- your contract carefully Always read The following are some of the more reli- the more some of The following are There are many car-hire agencies in in agencies car-hire many are There GETTING & Motorcycle •• Car AROUND .avis.com.jo; King Abdullah Gardens, Amman) Offices at King Hussein Bridge and Aqaba, and branches at the airport, Royal Hotel & Jordan InterContinental Hotel. Le company in Jordan. The biggest car-hire 125 Abdul Hameed Sharaf St, Amman) fore signing; remember that many places that signing; remember fore and all days’ hire a minimum three require up to JD400 payable a deposit of require card) and upon pick-up (usually by credit the car. of upon the return refunded Avis Reliable Rent-a-Car able agencies. Charges, conditions, drop- conditions, Charges, able agencies. in fees insurance costs and waiver off fees, shop accident vary considerably so case of run at around JD25 to around. Daily rates JD30, and weekly at JD140 to JD200. rates This doesn’t include tax petrol, but usu- or You kilometres. unlimited ally includes free car in an- the rental can normally drop off around of for a fee other city (eg Aqaba), JD25. Budget Europcar Isam Al-Ajlouni St, Amman) .europcar.middleeast.com; Branches at Radisson SAS, King Abdullah Gardens and in Aqaba (Map p248 ). Hertz Amman, a few in Aqaba and one or two in Aqaba and few Amman, a staffed offices at Queenirregularly Alia the King Husseinairport and border with Most Territories. Israel and the Palestinian usually outside these agencies areas car-hire an office with one guy, one desk, consist of (usually and one car for hire one telephone in Amman (see are his!). The best deals among agencies competition ), where p116 is fierce. Hiring a car to travel along the King’s High- the King’s along a car to travel Hiring not well served is way, however, which by good sense makes public transport, and side trips almost possible of opens up lots on the bus. if relying unthinkable 06-4711771; www.hertz.com; King Abdullah Gardens, Amman) Offices at the airport, Grand Hyatt Amman, ). p248 Sheraton & in Aqaba (Map 5521358; www.rentareliablecar.com; 19 Fawzi al-Qawegli 19 Fawzi 5521358; www.rentareliablecar.com; St, Amman) Cars JD20 to JD25. Offers drop-off and free in Madabapick-up or the airport, will deliver the car to you in Amman and will evenanywhere drive you to the edge nervousof town if you are Contact about Amman traffic. Mohammed Hallak. is only few along the few very khal min ar-rasas) min ar-rasas) khal

There’s no great need to hire a car to a car to hire need to no great There’s Four-wheel-drive vehicles can be hired can be hired vehicles Four-wheel-drive around Wadi Rum, you’ll need To get Petrol stations are run by the state- run stations are Petrol can be with handy mechanics Garages

travel to places like Petra and Jerash, which which Jerash, and Petra to places like travel well servedare by public transport and to be explored needwhich a day or more a properly on foot; or to Wadi Rum, where 4WD invariably comes with a local driver. Hire Hire the getting way of Hiring a car is a great Jordan and for exploring off-most out of the-beaten-track. from reputable agencies in Aqaba ( p259 ) p259 ( in Aqaba agencies from reputable ex- far more ); they are p116 and Amman ( than normal sedans, costing at least pensive JD75 per day. Also, companies only offer you then pay kilometres; 100 to 200 free kilometre. extra for each a 4WD jeep: these almost always to charter You can, however, come with a local driver. if you are your own 4WD in the area drive ). p273 an experienced off-road (see driver Four-wheel drives are only necessary if only necessary if are drives Four-wheel the desert, parts of going to remote you’re highly advised as Burqu. You are to such off-road prior experience of have driving sand hiring a 4WD: driving in soft before for in 45°C heat, for example, is a recipe disaster if you don’t know what you’re doing. 4WDs reliably available in Amman and even then available reliably stations. at Dieselat only a few available is per litre. about 320 fils Refinery monopoly Jordan Petroleum Company. Stations mostly be found on can towns, and at some major the outskirts of junctions. Along the Desert Highway there along fewer are stations. There of plenty are the King’s Highway, and Dead Sea Highway. most towns. They of found in the outskirts at negotiable can handle most repairs, car, always check prices, but if it’s not your getting company before with your car-hire anything done. almost certain to have risen pub- since the certainalmost to have to check book. Remember this of lication company as to which car-hire with your super. most take car requires; petrol your ( Unleaded petrol lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT trance to atown. ditches acrosstheroad, usuallyatthe en- humps arespeed common, asare shallow The conditionof theroadsvaries;unsigned Road Conditions car registration’. a nominalcustomsfee of JD5for‘foreign JD35 (validforonemonth).You alsopay attheborderforaboutmust bepurchased vehicle, compulsorythird-partyinsurance lation shouldalwaysbeprovided. carefully before signing–anEnglish trans- Always read theconditionsof thecontract by yourtravel insurancepolicyfromhome. and TheftProtection, which maybecovered often includesPersonal AccidentInsurance JD100 excess). amaximumofcident costs(insomecases per day,which willabsolve youof allac- (CDW) insuranceforanextraJD7toJD10 offer additionalCollisionDamage Waiver pay amaximumof JD400).Mostagencies ofto JD400(ieincase an accidentyou surance thatinvolves adeductibleof up Most car-hire rates comewithbasic in- Insurance countries. a hire carfromJordanintoneighbouring be atleast26years. It’snotpossibletodrive years old;somestipulate thatdrivers must driving off. defects, andcheck brakes, tyres etcbefore member forbumps,scratches andobvious periods. Checkthecarover withastaff lection anddelivery toavoid longer hire and publicholidays.Ifso,prearrange col- ally available foranextrafee. cies, butchild-restraining are seats gener- maps are notprovided bycar-hire agen- sideofon theright-hand theroad.Road terrain or todrivinginmountain not used expensive, are butthese aboontoanyone withautomatictransmissionCars are more insummerorwinter.which isagodsend Most hire cars have air-con andaheater, companieswon’toffertable anythingelse. a carlessthanthree years old–mostrepu- middle of nowhere, youshouldalwayshire To ensure thatyoudon’tbreak downinthe 320 If you’re drivingintoJordaninaprivate Insurance offered bymajor companies Most agencies onlyhire todrivers over 21 Some agencies are onFriday closed GETTING AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING following carefully: Hwys 10 and40eastof Amman. 65 (south of Aqabatothe Saudiborder)and trucks; egtheshortstretchdistance of Hwy common are frequented those bylong- every 9.4hoursevery fromroadaccidents. ingly frequent. In2007there wasonedeath roads,accidents arewell-maintained alarm- Despite thesmallpopulation,andrelatively Road Hazards

tions like Jerash, Petra andMadaba. find (andnormallyfree) atmajor attrac- Amman, isaproblem, butit’seasyto Parking inmajor towns,especially fill upasoften asyoucan. Petrol are stations notthatcommon,so confusing. ers (localandforeign) findthemtotally Roundabouts are often large, andalldriv- onthemajorcamels, even highways. out of sideroads;andherdsof goatsand ans whowalkalongtheroad;cars darting Always watch pedestri- outforobstacles: and canbefiendish inKarak andIrbid. One-way streets are often notsignposted ofuse U-turnsthanflyovers. The Jordanianroadsystem makes more combination ontheroads. (andsometimesoil)makesand alethal Take care whenit’sraining:water and mosque. signs are for anythingIslamic,such asa blue signsare forroadnamesandgreen Brown signsdenote touristattractions, SI’ fortheAt-Tannour AntiquitiesSite!). favourite, ‘AT TA NOURAN IQUI ES (eg ‘OmQeis’forUmmQaisor,our they are sometimesbadlytransliterated Many roadsignsare inEnglish, but to get youallthewaytodestination. to get youonyourwaybutnotenough Signposting iserratic–generally enough If you’re driving aroundJordan,read the using theslowlane. of straddlingof twolanesandovertaking commit toasinglelane,sothere’s alot Jordanians are extremely reluctant to beam. onlyhigh use some cars have or,worse, noheadlights of camels)are stillroamingabout,and are (egherds notcommon,obstacles white lines dangerous because atnight are thehighways) Most roads(andeven The roadswhere accidents are more lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT 321 Wearing a seat belt is now compulsory, Vehicles drive on the right-hand side of drive Vehicles GETTING & Motorcycle •• Car AROUND though many Jordanians are reluctant to to reluctant though are many Jordanians use at positioned them. Traffic police are intervals along the highways. Police tend as towards foreigners, to be fairly indulgent long as they do nothing serious. the road in Jordan. The general speedthe road limit in Jordan. The general is 50km/h or 70km/h on inside built-up areas multilane highwaysin Amman, and 90km/h highways.to 110km/h on the national Road Rules Rules Road rules road country where from any Visitors by may be shocked obeyed rigorously are the traffic in Amman. in Jordan, especially seldom used,are ubiqui- the Indicators down slowing over preferred tous horn is their chances. must take and pedestrians in elsewhere who has driven But anyone Eastthe Middle find the traffic may com- you that Provided well behaved. paratively down to a driving in Amman can keep to your to get minimum and plan how to encounter unlikely destination, you’re too many difficulties reason- if you take able care. Jenny Walker 192) are 192) are x 191 and x After several days searching for this magnificent velvet-petalled king of the flower world, I days searching for this magnificent velvet-petalled several After spluttered occasional rambling Peugeot The It had been a long wait by the dusty roadside. of clump a large place in which I looked out of the car window at the very A while later, to the same spot on the highway. Remarkably, just returned on the the only other car I’ve It was 20 years ago and springtime had brought to the hillsides of NorthernIt was 20 years ago and springtime had brought to Amman abundant anemones, bright yellow rock roses and oc- pastel-shaded were There of wildflowers. bouquets black iris, to know, was the elusive I wanted But where, poppies. casional splashes of blood red the national flower of Jordan? up and began to make my way along the King’sfinally gave Highway. that it would half-opened window indicated by on cheap petrol. A languid hand draped from a parts. I resigned be quicker for me to walk than to hazard a ride in such an assembly of spare that moment, a police car rounded the corner, and to my con- At myself to another long hike. policemen viewed me suspiciously and asked what I was Three pulled in front of me. sternation, to seemed harmless enough because they invited doing alone and unchaperoned. I must have take me to the next town. ‘Look, the iris!’ The excitedly. I shouted iris was growing lustily by the side of the road. ‘Stop!’ I could whip my camera from Before police dutifully backed up and we all hopped out to see. grappling throat while the other two were the bag, one of the policemen had an iris round the ‘No!’ I cried. ‘I don’t’ want to take it. I just want a photo!’ Somewhat bemused, with its roots. the startled patted bed, let me take iris back into its roadside my photo, and they reverently me to the next town as promised. delivered and left me alone to root honked the horn good-naturedly road was a police car whose driver perhaps they not just one clump, but three: they were: And there trees. around under the olive Or environment I didn’t witness two decades ago. evidence of a new national pride in the are perhaps, as I’d rather like in thanks for a good deed. to think, they multiplied HITCHING A RIDE WITH THE POLICE A RIDE WITH THE POLICE HITCHING In the case of an accident in a hire car, in a hire an accident caseIn the of in an involved car is If your own private guilty if always considered are Drivers for local police sta- numbers Telephone lonelyplanet.com valid for police emergencies anywhere in anywhere valid for police emergencies by English- Jordan, and should be answered speaking staff. don’t move the vehicle. Get a policeman the vehicle. move don’t the scene stationfrom the local to attend is (Arabic a police report get immediately, Not company. OK) and contact the car-hire inval- will normally obtaining a police report Depending on where your insurance. idate will send most companies someone you are, seri- any If there’s within hours. to the scene else,ous injury to you or someone contact company at home as insurance your travel in Amman. well as your embassy/consulate licence and passport accident, your driving until the casewill be held by the police has been finalised may court – which in a local weeks.take the cir- of they hit a pedestrian, regardless cumstances. mentioned throughout the book, tions are ( but two numbers TRANSPORT doesn’t need theextra money. need doesn’t any foreigner driving aprivate orhired car lifts. Theywillassume, proba chargeYou shouldnever alocalforthese it’s agreat Jordanianpeople. waytomeet courteous togive arideortwo. Besides, lic transportislimited ornonexistent, it’s stretch of where theKing’s Highway, pub- On remote stretches like theWadiMujib guilt asyouflypastweary-looking locals. hired car,it’shardnottofeel atwinge of one aride,ifyou’re drivingaprivate or there’sAlthough noobligationtogive any- upHitchhikers Picking fully slow. andAqaba)astheycanbepain- turn-off theWadiRumwindy roads(egbetween and avoid ridingintrucksonsteep and two; take extracare ifyouare awoman; don’thitch ingroupsofscruffy; more than carry ahatandlotsof water; don’tlook too get out–itwilloften berefused. justofferwise, asmallamountwhenyou if so,howmuch thedriver wants.Other- you shouldaskifpaymentisexpected and, may beasked forafare; inaprivate vehicle, tion you’re heading.Onalarge truck,you yourindexfingersimply raise inthedirec- theboxedselves (see text, p321 ). begiveneven aridebythepolicethem- cajole themintogiving youalift.Youmay are often happytowave downdrivers and tioned atmajor junctions andcheckpoints Somewhatsurprisingly,policesta- a siesta. isreducedtraffic whilemanylocalsenjoy 1pm to4pmwhenit’soften toohotand Amman. castleseastof andtothedesert Highway nonexistent, such aspartsof theKing’s areas where publictransportislimited or is quite feasible inJordan,especially where theyare planning togo. they travel inpairs andletsomeoneknow People tohitch whochoose willbesafer if risk. asmallbutpotentially serious taking to hitch shouldunderstand thattheyare try intheworld.Travellers whochoose Hitching is entirelynever safe inanycoun- aRide Getting HITCHING 322 Finally, afew general tips.Make sure you To indicate thatyou’re lookingforalift, hitchingAlways start early,andavoid Despite thisgeneral advice,hitching GETTING AROUND••Hitching GETTING bly fairly,that after climbingupanddownthe Whitetaxis. service dan. Yellow worklike private taxis ordinary There are twomaintypes of inJor-taxis Taxi much more and stillinexpensive. useful are taxis tions are often chaotic. Service availableor timetables andlocalbussta- ‘English’ numbers), there are noschedules somehavetion signsinEnglish (although few haveworks. Thatsaid, buses destina- have andcheap public efficient bus net- The twolargest cities,AmmanandIrbid, Bus LOCAL TRANSPORT just have tonegotiate areasonable fare. of JD1anywhere intown;elsewhere you’ll meter; there in Wadi Musa fare isastandard are metered andmostdrivers the willuse Taxis amongtaxis. ing standard inAmman (South Shuna) andTafila. There isnopric- port junctionslike Shuneh al-Janubiyyeh trans- Aqaba, aswellaroundimportant Ma’an, Madaba, (Petra) WadiMusa and major townslike Amman,Irbid,Jerash, Yellow privateare taxis very commonin PRIVATE TAXI correct you. dinars by mistake, thedriver is unlikely to fils notdinars and ifyouproffer thefare in across town. air-conthan US$2foracomfortable ride be gladtoforkouttheequivalent of less the infernal summerheat of Aqaba,you’ll (hills) of aroundin Amman,orstaggering down thedestination(s)inArabic. speak Englishtowrite ask alocalwhodoes theArabicscriptinthisguidebookor use are more amenabletostopsandsidetrips. costsmore,trip inaprivate taxi butdrivers in acar(normallyfour).Along-distance fare perperson andthenpayforalltheseats (eg AqabatoMa’an), findoutthestandard route alongaset taxi To charter aservice is usuallycheaper thanhiringyourowncar. foraday taxi be chartered. Hiringaservice countries. Jordanandneighbouring as wellbetween routesmanytowns, within andbetween set Taxis are notexpensive inJordanand, Note thatmetered fares are displayedin If the taxi driver doesn’t speakEnglish, driver If thetaxi doesn’t can andprivate taxis taxis Both service (servees) taxis runalong taxis lonelyplanet.com jebels

TRANSPORT 323 . Wadi Rum Royal Society Royal Society 06-4642034; (RSCN; www.rscn.org

x ( 03-2157317, 079- 06-5527230, 079- © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © 03-2157723; www x 079-5581644, 077-7773978; x 06-5511200; www.golden ( 06-5930588; www.select.jo) ( x ( x x x ( ( ( 06-5938238; www.jdtours.com; (www.bedouinroads.com)

0302156665; www.petramoon.com; 06-5857154; www.royaltours.com.jo) 03-2157099; www.labeduinatours.com) 06-5620501; www.aliatours.com.jo) x GETTING •• Tours AROUND ( x x x ( ( ( x ( The following local agencies are reliable: are The following local agencies If you’re travelling independently, and and independently, travelling If you’re , which can arrange short activity breaks short activity breaks can arrange , which Part of Royal Jordanian, and good for stopover packages. 5554677; www.jitours.com; Petra) Standard tours. High-end tours. an inter- agency that also offers Wadi Musa) A professional and Dana. of Petra areas in remote esting range of treks .zamantours.com; Wadi Musa) tours, camping, Adventure and hiking.camel treks 5532915; www.desertguidescompany.com) Trekking, mountain-bike trips. and adventure Boumedien St, Amman) Located in Amin Marie Complex. Alia Tours on a tight budget, jumping on a budget- jumping on on a tight budget, from Amman to a tour priced organised east- the desert castles of place like remote cheaper, ern Jordan is far easier, and often . p105 than doing it yourself.See www.atlastours.net) Also offers side trips Also offers to Israel and the www.atlastours.net) Syria and Lebanon. Territories, Palestinian Jordan Select Tours La Beduina Moon Petra Royal Tours Zaman Tours & Travel Atlas Travel & Tourist Agency Desert Guides Company Golden Crown Tours Jordan Beauty Tours www.jordanbeauty.com; Petra) Jordan Direct Jordan Inspiration Tours the tourism department of the of department the tourism Conservationfor the Nature of .jo) or entire itineraries (see p72 ). For an ex- p72 (see itineraries or entire Rum it’s best to contact trip to Wadi tended a local Bedouin as such agency Mountain Guides crowntours.com) Offerscrowntours.com) and archaeological, religious tours. adventure

For hiking and activities in Jordan’s na- Because of the limited number of seats,Because number of limited the of should always ask travellers Lone female as Amman and Irbid, cities, such Major

An alternative to a pricey group tour or- to a pricey group An alternative ganised your own from abroad is to arrange mini-tour with a Jordanian travel private these hiking can arrange of Many agency. a itineraries and provide or archaeological car and driver. reserves best off contacting ture you are TOURS SERVICE TAXI SERVICE TAXI Service Peugeot usually battered taxisare 504 or 505 station seven wagons with seats, seats. sedans with five They or Mercedes writing usually have and always white, are indicating their (in Arabic) and numbers route. it usually doesn’t one to fill long for take as a twice as much up. They cost up to than a pub- 50% more minibus, and about because stop they quicker lic bus, but are pas- along the way to pick up less often always that not However, they’re sengers. comfortable or mini- than a bus more much the prized front seat.bus, unless you get or to give waiting for passengers, To avoid yourself extra room, you can always pay for an extra seat. to sit in the front seat if the back is jammed with men, otherwise worth paying for it’s a taxi,an extra seat. single chartering If should always sit in the back. females well servedare by service taxis that run city, and often along set within each routes to visitors. interest go to (or past) places of service with intercity As taxis, is the route door and in Arabic on the driver’s listed de- full before wait until they are drivers parting. lonelyplanet.com HEALTH in Amman. dan are generally very good,particularly accidents.Medicaltraffic facilitiesinJor- lers medicalhelpisasaresult needing of tions. Themostcommonreason fortravel- canbeavoidedbut these withafew precau- cananddooccurinJordan, tious diseases when travelling Infec- intheMiddleEast. Prevention isthekey healthy tostaying idea. Ifcarryingsyringes besure orneedles, including generic names, isalsoagood your medicalconditions andmedications, dated letter fromyourphysiciandescribing clearly labelled, containers. Asignedand before weeks four toeight departure. sovisitadoctor immunity fortwoweeks, minute –don’t!Many vaccines don’tensure kit withyou. prescription withyou);andcarryafirst-aid (andtake youroptical andglasses lenses a longtrip;carryspare pairof contact a lotof troublelater. yourdentistbefore See larly forpre-existing willsave you illnesses, A littleplanningbefore departure, particu- BEFORE YOUGO CONTENTS Health 324 © LonelyPlanetPublications Bring medicationsintheiroriginal, It’s tempting toleave itallto thelast oe’ elh 329 329 326 328 327 326 325 Women’s Health Travelling withChildren 325 326 326 Environmental Hazards 325 Traveller’s Diarrhoea 325 325 Infectious Diseases Availability &CostofHealthCare 324 In Jordan Jet Lag&MotionSickness Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) 325 In Transit Further Reading Internet Resources Medical Checklist Recommended Vaccinations Insurance 324 Before YouGo help, oryoucanaskatyourhotel. Incase able tolocate thenearest sourceof medical elsewhere. Yourinsurancecompanymaybe home ortransporttobetter medicalfacilities travel insurancewillcover repatriation expenditures; it’salsoworthensuringyour or reimburse youlater foroverseas health will make paymentsdirectly toproviders Find outinadvanceifyour insurance plan INSURANCE their medicalnecessity. to have aphysician’sletter documenting p326. and vaccinations,see Infectious Diseases, For more informationonthese diseases health provider: though youshouldcheckwithyourlocal mended formosttravellers toJordan, The following vaccinations are recom- VACCINATIONS REQUIRED &RECOMMENDED hepatitisA–asingledoseatleasttwo diphtheria&tetanus –singlebooster yellowfever –vaccinationisrequired typhoid–recommended ifyou’re trav- polio –generallygiven inchildhood measles, mumpsandrubella–two hepatitis B–nowconsidered routinefor more ofprotection months later gives another10yearsor protection foruptoayear;booster 12 to fourweeksbefore gives departure previous 10years recommended ifyou’ve hadnoneinthe and parts ofSouthAmerica and parts fected Africa, areas such assub-Saharan over oneyearofage ifcomingfromin- for entryintoJordanalltravellers elling formore thanacoupleofweeks and shouldbeboosted every 10years Young adultsmayrequire abooster. you have previously hadthediseases. doses ofMMRrecommended unless most travellers HEALTH 325 The Travellers’ The Travellers’ by Dr Richard by Dr Richard by Ted Lankester, an by Ted which is revised annu- which Healthy Travel – Asia & & – Asia Travel Healthy (www.cdc.gov/travel) (www.dfat.gov.au/travel) (www.travelhealth.gc.ca) International Travel Health Guide Health Travel International Traveller’s Health Health Traveller’s is packed with useful information with useful information is packed (www.doh.gov.uk) TRAVEL HEALTH WEBSITES WEBSITES HEALTH TRAVEL to consult your government’s It’s a good idea departure. before health website travel Australia Canada UK States United The US embassy in Amman has a list of has a list of The US embassy in Amman DVT symptom of is swelling or The chief The Center for Disease Control (www Another website of general interest is MD interest general of Another website recommended doctors in Jordan at http://us doctors recommended embassy-amman.org.jo/cons/doctors.doc. foot, ankle or calf, usually but the pain of When a blood not always on just one side. .cdc.gov) offers a useful overview of the a useful the overview of offers .cdc.gov) to Jordan and health issues facing travellers countries. neighbouring IN TRANSIT DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT) blood when occurs thrombosis Deep vein clots form in the legs during plane flights, immobility. a prolonged becausechiefly of the risk. the flight is, the greater The longer unevent- reabsorbed Though most clots are through and travel off fully, some may break they to the lungs, where the blood vessels complications. may cause life-threatening Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com), (www.mdtravelhealth.com), Health Travel travel-health complete provides which for every country, up- recommendations daily, also at no cost. dated FURTHER READING Lonely Planet’s emergency India planning, including pre-trip aid, immunisation and diseasefirst infor- sick on mation and what to do if you get references the road. Other recommended include Travel and Health, and Travel online at no cost. ally and is available Dawood, by Stuart R Rose, and MD Guide Good Health especially useful health guide for volunteers especially useful health guide for volunteers working in the expatriates and long-term Middle East. IN TRANSIT •• Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) Thrombosis Vein Deep •• IN TRANSIT International International travel-health advice on travel-health

See p296 for more information on on information for more p296 See

thermometer scissors, safety pins, tweezers safety scissors, or cortisone (for allergic cream steroid rashes) sunblock iodine tablets or other water-purification iodine tablets or other water-purification tablets salts oral rehydration anti-inflammatory drugs (eg ibuprofen) gauze, gauze rolls bandages, containinginsect DEET (for the repellent body) (for insect spray containing Permethrin and bed nets) clothing, tents antidiarrhoeal drugs (eg loperamide) and allergic antihistamines fever (for hay reactions) adhesive or paper tape adhesive ointment (eg Bactroban)antibacterial for cuts and abrasions off-the-beaten- antibiotics (if travelling track) acetaminophen/paracetamol (Tylenol) acetaminophen/paracetamol (Tylenol) or aspirin

the internet. For further information, the further For internet. the (www.lonelyplanet Lonely Planet website .com) is a good place to start. The World (www.who.int/ith) Organization Health publishes a superb book, There is a wealth of is a wealth of There INTERNET RESOURCES INTERNET RESOURCES Following is a list of other items you should you should other items Following is a list of medical kit. consider packing in your MEDICAL CHECKLIST MEDICAL CHECKLIST

RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS vaccinations: your Plan ahead for getting than one injec- more them require some of not be should tion, while some vaccinations some vaccinations that Note together. given or during pregnancy should not be given – discuss this with to people with allergies your doctor. of an emergency, contact or your embassy emergency, an of will not insurance travel Your consulate. other than you for anything usually cover Not all insur- dental treatment. emergency aeromedical evacu- emergency ance covers city, or to a hospitalation home major in a medical the only way to get may be which serious for a attention emergency. insurance. lonelyplanet.com HEALTH medicine is taught inEnglish atJordanian medicine istaught studied in Jordanspeak English because doctors (andmostpharmacists) whohave in theEnglish-language newspapers. All IrbidandAqaba,are listed Amman, Zarqa, in in AmmanandIrbid,forhospitals openat night) pharmacies (includingthose prescription. Thetelephone numbers for you fromhome,together withacopy of a medical itemsunusual orimportant with you buyinJordan.Itisbetter tobringany cies, butcheck theexpirydate of medicine in Jordan. ment notrequiring isfree hospitalisation by lower medical costs.Emergency treat- whoareticularly theGulfStates, attracted patients fromneighbouring countries,par- whichprivate cater hospitals, primarilyto most othertowns.Jordanalsohasover 50 andbasichealthcentres in tha andZarqa; Karak; inMadaba, smallerhospitals Ram- inAmman,Irbid,Aqaba andhospitals There are modern,well-equippedpublic &COSTOFHEALTHAVAILABILITY CARE IN JORDAN which workslike acharm for somepeople. drowsiness. Aherbalalternative isginger, is motion sickness.Theirmainside-effect ine) are usuallythefirst choice fortreating (Dramamine) andmeclizine(Antivert, Bon- possible. etc)assoon schedule (formeals,sleep sure andreadjust tonatural sunlight your expo- meals.Uponarrival,seek eat light drink plentyof fluids(non-alcoholic) and Toavoid ornausea. jetlag, tigue, malaise five timezones;itresults ininsomnia,fa- Jet lagiscommonwhencrossingmore than LAG&MOTIONSICKNESS JET avoid alcohol andtobacco. while sitting),drinkplentyof fluids,and the legmuscles(iecontract cabin, performisometriccompressions of youshouldwalkabout the on longflights medicalattention. diately seek with anyof symptomsshould imme- these inbreathing.pain anddifficulty Travellers clot travels chest tothelungs,itmaycause 326 Most townshave well-stocked pharma- such asdimenhydrinateAntihistamines To prevent of thedevelopment DVT INJORDAN••Availability &CostofHealthCare vaccine, hepatyrixorviatim. vaccines canalsobegiven asasingle-dose as aninjection;hepatitisAandtyphoid vaccine (Avaxim, VAQTA, Havrix) isgiven eyes, fever andabdominal pain.Hepatitis A urine, ayellowcolourtothewhites of the delayed recovery. Symptomsincludedark prolonged cancause lethargyfatal, and itisrarely jaundiceand,although causes food (particularlyshellfish) andwater. It Hepatitis Aisspread contaminated through Hepatitis A child), andlasts10years. well have hadthiscombinedinjectionasa injection alone,orwith tetanus (youmay in infected areas. Thevaccineisgiven asan withthelocalpopulation contact be inclose cination isrecommended likely forthose to tracheostomy toprevent Vac- suffocation. brane formsacrossthethroatrequiring a and severe sore throat.Sometimesamem- temperature ahigh Itcauses tory contact. Diphtheria isspread respira- close through &TetanusDiphtheria DISEASES INFECTIOUS over-the-countervice, andsell medication. pharmacists canoften provide valuable ad- well-equipped. surgeriesDental are alsofairlymodernand universities, andmanyhave studiedabroad. an infected partnerandfrom aninfected intercourseblood products, sexual with This is spread viainfected blood and HIV orsixmonths.four weeks, for atleastfive years. Itcanbegiven over willgive(hepatyrix). Acourse protection timeasthehepatitis Avaccine at thesame in Jordan.Thevaccineisgiven singly,or of thelevel Control says hepatitisBishigh forDisease vaccination.) TheUSCenter B vaccinationaspartof routinechildhood nation. (Many countriesnowgive hepatitis travellers shouldmake thisaroutinevacci- liver, occasionallycausingliver failure. All B. the jaundice,andaffects Itcancause sexual intercourse canalltransmit hepatitis Infected and needles blood,contaminated Hepatitis B For anambulanceinJordancall such asdiarrhoea, For minorillnesses lonelyplanet.com x 193. HEALTH 327 need a yellow-fever cer- need a yellow-fever do

IN JORDAN •• Traveller’s Diarrhoea •• Traveller’s IN JORDAN

be cautious of buffets that may have been buffets that may have be cautious of than a day. standing for more filtered or chemically disinfected (iodine disinfected or chemically filtered tablets) (eg a power cut in and then been refrozen the last day or two) and clams, particularly outside oysters Aqaba, as well as the raw-meat dishes of in Lebaneseavailable restaurants Eat and meals only at busy restaurants tap unless it has been water boiled, Avoid melted that may have ice cream Beware of as mussels, shellfish such Be of careful tificate, from a designated clinic, if arriving from a designated tificate, been in or if you’ve area, from an infected in the two weeks prior to area an infected arrival in Jordan. TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA DIARRHOEATRAVELLER’S Becoming sick from unhygienic food prep- aration in Jordan is slim, especially if you follow this advice: Typhoid that through food or water This is spread human has been contaminated by infected or symptom is usually fever faeces. The first Septicaemiaa pink rash on the abdomen. Typhoid also occur. (blood poisoning) may pro- will give vaccine (typhim Vi, typherix) some countries, In years. for three tection the oral vaccine Vivotif is also available. FeverYellow for vaccination is not required Yellow-fever Jordan but you tion. It is more importantfor those visit- is more tion. It long stay, on a or planning ing family and and health-care those as teachers employed although TB can be asymptomatic, workers. can include cough,symptoms weight loss expo- after or even years months or fever, best way to confirm if An X-ray is the sure. BCG degree a moderate TB. gives you have It causes small a against TB. protection of injection, and of site permanent scar at the in specialised chest is usually only given not be vaccine it should it’s a live clinics. As women or immunocom- to pregnant given promised BCG individuals. The vaccine is in all countries. not available If you do develop diarrhoea, be sure to to diarrhoea, be sure If you do develop an oral- fluids, preferably drink plenty of solution containing salt and rehydration

Reliable figures aren’t available about the available aren’t Reliable figures HIV You may need to supply a negative

Tuberculosis Tuberculosis through close Tuberculosis (TB) is spread contact and occasionally through respiratory milk or milk products. BCGinfected vac- to for those likely cine is recommended be mixing closely the local popula- with

Rabies or licks on broken through bites Spread rabies is animal, skin from an infected should be vacci- fatal. Animal handlers to remote as should thosenated, travelling post-bite source of a reliable where areas within 24 hours. vaccine is not available a month. needed over injections are Three physical contact come into with If you’ve been vac- animal and haven’t an infected injec- five you’ll need of a course cinated or as soon as tions starting 24 hours within does the injury. Vaccination possible after you with immunity, it merely not provide time to seek appropriate buys you more medical help.

Polio through either contami-Generally spread the of polio is one food or water, nated and should childhood in vaccines given either orally (a every 10 years, be boosted drop on the tongue), or as an injection. Polio may be carried asymptomatically, although and, it can cause a transient fever permanent muscle cases, potentially in rare weakness or paralysis. Polio is not currently in neigh- in Jordan but is prevalent present bouring countries. mother to her newborn child. It can be It can be child. to her newborn mother through blood’ contacts ‘blood to spread as contaminated instruments during such acupunc- dentalmedical and procedures, used intra- and sharing body-piercing ture, needles. venous Jordan with HIV or people in number of the strict taboos in Jorda- AIDS, but given drugs, homosexualitynian society about and rare. promiscuity, the disease is relatively Contracting HIV through a blood transfu- as in most Western sion is about as unlikely needingcountries, and anyone serious sur- will probably be sentgery home anyway. a second in order to get visa extension test months. three than longer for a stay of lonelyplanet.com HEALTH matisation. Symptoms includeheadache,matisation. unaccustomed exercise before full accli- mon inhot climates whentaking Thisisparticularlycom- ids andsalt. with inadequate replacement of flu- heavy sweatingandexcessive fluidloss especially aroundWadiRum. inthe heatof thedesert theday, through visitors get themselves intotrouble hiking September. Despite thewarnings,some are travelling May toJordanbetween and carefully,Read thissection especiallyifyou Heat Illness p283. with swimming,divingorsnorkelling, see adequate bedding.Forhazardsconnected DecemberandFebruarybetween without is areal riskof hypothermiaifcamping there canbebitterly coldinwinter: desert are themost common,don’tforget thatthe environments. Whileheat-related problems haveit does afew hazards uniquetodesert Jordan isnotadangerous placetovisitbut ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS women, butmedicalcare isnecessary. lin oramoxycillin maybegiven topregnant Afive-dayweight. courseisgiven. Ampicil- trimoxazole, withdosage dependenton nant women.Thedrugforchildren isco- not recommended forchildren orpreg- twice dailyforfive drugsare days.These daily forthree daysorciprofloxacin 500mg travellers) are norfloxacin 400mgtwice most likely of cause severe in diarrhoea (the mended drugsforbacterial diarrhoea medicalattention. pain, youshouldseek fever, shakingchills orsevere abdominal for more than72hours, isaccompaniedby isbloody,persistsloperamide). Ifdiarrhoea agentdrug) andanantidiarrhoeal (such as anantibiotic(usuallyaquinolonetaking four orfive stoolsaday,youshould start havingment butifyoustart more than bottled water. half ateaspoon of toalitre salt of boiledor up asolutionof sixteaspoons of sugarand also good).Inanemergency youcanmake flat anddiluted 50%withcleanwater are soda water, orsoft drinksallowedtogo sugar (weakblacktea withalittlesugar, 328 Heat exhaustionoccurs following Where this isnotpossibletherecom- A few stoolsdon’trequire loose treat- INJORDAN••EnvironmentalHazards carriers. spreading asymptomatic scabies between treating withalsoneed into contact to avoid from pharmacies; peoplewhoyoucome Scabies iseasilytreated withlotion available fingers. itchy anintensely rash. Theycause live the intheskin,particularly between cheap tinymites accommodation. These ter still,findabetter hotel! killerwillgetpriate insect ridof them;bet- bites. Sprayingthemattress withanappro- cheap hotels. Theyleadtovery itchy lumpy camping inthevicinityof Little Petra. in themorning,particularlyifyouareshoes orclothingsocheckshelter inshoes your pecially foryoungchildren. Scorpionsoften es- and inJordancansometimesbefatal, swelling. relief and ice packswillreduce thepainand mine lotionorasting-relief spraywillgive tion orsimilar. Forgeneral bugbites, cala- stings youshouldcarryanadrenaline injec- If youhave asevere allergy orwasp tobee withasevere allergyto those (anaphylaxis). bites. Mosquitosalsospread denguefever. DEET-based repellents insect willprevent andinfected irritation cause bites. Using maynotcarrymalariabutcan Mosquitoes &Stings Bites Insect required. ment byintravenous dripisusuallyalso Emergency fluidandelectrolyte replace- water and fanningisanidealtreatment. coolingbysprayingthebodywith Rapid loss ofeventually consciousnessanddeath. irrational andhyperactive behaviour and body temperature leadstosweatingceasing, mechanism breaks in down.Excessive rise occurs whenthebody’sheat-regulating little more tofoodsthanusual. salt table fluids asinsouporbroth,andaddinga of componentconsistsof thesalt-loss salty ing bycoldwater andfans.Thetreatment with water orfruitjuiceboth,andcool- exhaustion consistsof fluidreplacement pale, diluted urine. Thetreatment of heat water toproduceaim todrinksufficient ready occurs bythetimeyoufeel thirsty – dizziness andtiredness. Dehydrational- Scabies are alsofrequently foundin bugsare oftenBed foundinhostels and Scorpion stingsare notoriouslypainful real andwaspsonlycause problems Bees Heat stroke ismuch more This serious. lonelyplanet.com HEALTH 329 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © from Lonely Planet from Lonely Travelling during pregnancy is poten- during pregnancy Travelling Emergency contraception is most ef- contraception Emergency Travel with Children with Travel Children should be encouraged to avoid avoid to should be encouraged Children IN JORDAN •• Travelling with Children Children with •• Travelling IN JORDAN tially risky during the first 12 weeks, when tially risky during the first 30 and after is most likely, miscarriage weeks, as high when complications such delivery and premature blood pressure Most airlines will not accept a can occur. pregnancy. 28 to 32 weeks after of traveller good in Jordan and Antenatal facilities are written medical staff Taking speaks English. including details pregnancy, the of records you need your blood group, is helpful if of your Ensure while away. medical attention delivery pregnancy insurance policy covers and postnatal care. fective if taken within 24 hours after un- after within 24 hours if taken fective Planned sex. The International protected can ad- (www.ippf.org) Federation Parent contraception vise of about the availability and sani- Tampons countries. in different in Amman easily available tary towels are but not necessarily in smaller towns. WOMEN’S HEALTH WOMEN’S HEALTH travelling exhaustion and stress, Emotional time zones can all con- through different to an upset tribute pattern. in the menstrual that remember If using oral contraceptives, diarrhoea and vomiting some antibiotics, working and lead to can stop the pill from take to – remember pregnancy the risk of in case.condoms with you just Condoms in a cool, dry place or they should be kept may crack and perish. dogs or other mammals because of the the becauseor other mammals dogs of diseases. rabies and other risk of Any bite, furry from a warm-blooded, or lick scratch thoroughly be animal should If cleaned. is that the animal is any possibility there as- medical rabies, immediate with infected sistance be sought. should health for younger includes advice on travel children.

In hot, humid climates any wound or any wound or In hot, humid climates Half of those bitten by venomous snakes snakes those by venomous bitten of Half

All travellers with children should know how with children All travellers minor ailments and when to seekto treat the children sure Make medical treatment. with routine vaccinations, up to date are not suit- bearing in mind some vaccines are under one year old. children able for The in the skin may lead to infection. break dry should be cleaned and then kept area contaminated and clean. Remember to avoid is vomiting or If your child food and water. experiencing diarrhoea, salts lost fluid and be helpful to take It may must be replaced. with for reconstituting powders rehydration this. your doctor about Ask boiled water. TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN WITH CHILDREN TRAVELLING Tap water in Jordan is generally safe to to safe is generally in Jordan water Tap to stick trip it’s better drink, but for a short for boil water alternatively to bottled water; use tablets purification 10 minutes, water amoebic In the Jordan Valley, or a filter. The tap dysentery can be a problem. water in southern Jordan, particularly Wadi Rum, comes from natural springs at Diseh and so pure. is extremely Water Snakebite bitten being of To minimise chances your trou- boots, socks and long always wear walking through when sers undergrowth Don’t put may be present. snakes where and be into holes and crevices, your hands collecting firewood. when careful (en- with poison injected not actually are do not panic. by a snake, If bitten venomed). Immobilise limb with a splint (eg the bitten the site, over a stick) and apply a bandage similar to bandaging a with firm pressure, tourniquet, or cut or sprain. Do not apply a Get the victim to medical help suck the bite. can be antivenin as soon as possible so that if necessary. given lonelyplanet.com LANGUAGE siders trying tolearnArabic, themost dan arenottoodistant fromMSA.Forout- spoken –acrossthe Arabworld. generally understood –ifnotalwayswell language) astheArabworldcomes, andis It isasclosetoa of thepress,radioandeducateddiscourse. is moreorlessMSA,thecommon language vive ithadtoadaptchange,and the result time itremainedstatic,butinorder tosur- Arabic poetryofcenturiespast.For along tongue isthelanguageofQuranand bic) andregionaldialects.Theclassical descendant MSA(ModernStandardAra- tween ClassicalArabic issue iscomplicatedbythedifferencesbe- take yearsofconsistentstudy.Thewhole master thecomplexitiesofArabicwould travelling doesn’ttakelongatall,butto speak Arabicverywell!’. sponse (usuallywithabigsmile):‘Ah,you grammar mightbe,you’lloftengetthere- far offthemarkyourpronunciationor guage willbewellrewarded.Nomatterhow municate withthelocalsintheirownlan- is alsowidelyspokenbutanyefforttocom- Arabic isJordan’sofficial language. English CONTENTS Language 330 © LonelyPlanetPublications Fortunately, the spoken dialectsofJor- Learning afewbasicsforday-to-day ie&Dts 335 337 335 334 Travel withChildren 336 Transport Time &Dates Shopping &Services 332 Paperwork 335 332 Numbers 334 Language Difficulties Health 334 Emergencies 334 Directions 333 Conversation &Essentials Accommodation 332 Transliteration 332 Tricky Sounds Pronunciation 330 lingua franca (fus-ha) , itsmodern (common oo u o ee e aa Vowels extensive tobecoveredhere. ing pronunciationandvowelusearetoo bear inmindthatthemyriadrulesgovern- slowly andclearly. sounds. Pronouncethetransliteratedwords iar withtheintonationandcombinationof can betongue-tyingforsomeoneunfamil- Pronunciation ofArabicinanyitsguises PRONUNCIATION embark onastudyofthelanguage. why sofewnon-Arabs,ornon-Muslims, you aheadache,you’llhavesomeideaasto ing youreffortsonadialect.Ifallthisgives equately withpeopleinthestreet)orfocus- time beforebeingabletocommunicatead- first (andsoperhapshavingtowaitsome about therelativemeritsoflearningMSA An esotericargumentflowsbackandforth first placeisitselfalong-terminvestment. for back-up,andacquisitionofMSAinthe is virtuallynowrittenmaterialtorefer understanding thespokenlanguage.There frustrating elementneverthelessremains that when doubleconsonants occurinthe covered inthealphabet table,right.Note Pronunciation for allArabicconsonantsis Consonants a in ‘or’). in thisguideweuseallbutthelong‘o’(as short andfivelongvowelscanbeidentified; the Arabic-speakingworld).Morelikefive pronunciation (thisisthecasethroughout consonant combinationsaffectingtheir different, withlocaldialectandvarying short vowelsinArabic.Therealityisalittle Technically, therearethreelongand i

This languageguideshouldhelp,but as in‘food’ as in‘put’ as in‘hot’ as in‘beer’,onlysofter as in‘hit’ short, as the‘a’in‘father’ as in‘had’

as in‘bet’;long,‘there’ LANGUAGE 331 elief caro loch ; pronounce as a glottal ’ayn Pronunciation emphatic ‘s’ as in ‘ship’

LANGUAGE •• The Standard Arabic Alphabet Alphabet Arabic The Standard •• LANGUAGE as in ‘aisle’/as the ‘ay’ in ‘day’ as in ‘how’ in Scottish as the ‘ch’ as the ‘th’ in ‘this’ a guttural sound like Parisian ‘r’ long, as in ‘food’ as in ‘father’ as in ‘beer’, only softer as in ‘thin’ as in ‘me’ as in ‘wet’ a strongly whispered ‘h’, like a sigh of r as in ‘ham’ as in ‘name’ emphatic ‘d’ emphatic as in ‘dim’ guttural ‘k’ sound; also often a strongly as in ‘bet’ as in ‘king’ as in ‘yes’ the Arabic letter emphatic ‘z’ emphatic as in ‘zip’

as in ‘so’, never as in ‘wisdom’ emphatic ‘t’ emphatic as in ‘ten’ a rolled ‘r’, as in the Spanish word as in ‘far’ as in ‘lamb’ as in ‘jet’ ai/ay ee ow y oo w ḍ ṭ ẓ sh ṣ h z s n d dh r H kh q k l m b t th j gh f aa ’ (left).

a glottal stop pronounced as

stop – like the closing of the throat before saying ‘Oh-oh!’ (see Tricky Sounds, p332)

Vowels Alone Transliteration

To simplify the transliteration system used in this book, the emphatic consonants have not guide, see Not all Arabic vowel sounds are represented in the alphabet. For more information on the vowel sounds in the alphabet. For more represented Not all Arabic vowel sounds are THE STANDARD ARABIC ALPHABET ARABIC THE STANDARD Emphatic Consonants been included. Vowels used in this language Final Medial Initial MedialFinal lonelyplanet.com LANGUAGE street and hotelnames(and thelike)as ency, thisbook generally anglicisesplace, closely aspossible andaimingatconsist- isfactory solution. bists havebeenabletocomeupwith asat- even themostvenerableofWestern Ara- anon, withstrongFrenchinfluences); not look verydifferentagaininSyria and Leb- lish (wordsspeltonewayinJordan may have onappropriatespellingin, say, Eng- aginative ideasArabsthemselves often by thewidevarietyofdialectsandim- goes forplacesandpeople’snamesaswell. when theyappearinLatinscript–andthat of spellingsisthereforepossibleforwords method oftransliteration.Awidevariety sible tosettleononeuniversallyaccepted written) combinetomakeitnearlyimpos- script is‘incomplete’(mostvowelsarenot ropean languagesandthefactthat best anapproximatescience. any otherlanguageforthatmatter–isat from theArabicscriptintoEnglish–or It’s worthnotingherethattransliteration TRANSLITERATION you. that Arabicspeakerswillstillunderstand represent bothsounds.Youshouldfind ’ayn, usingtheclosingquotationmarkto guished betweentheglottalstopand the book)easiertouse,wehavenotdistin- language guide(andthroughouttherestof mark. Tomakethetransliterationsinthis and theglottalstopbyaclosingquotation represented byanopeningquotationmark, In manytransliterationsystems’aynis as thesoundofsomeonebeingstrangled. and airisreleased–ithasbeendescribed of thethroataregaggedmoreforcefully the alphabet),butmusclesatback stop (whichisnotactuallyrepresentedin comes evenclose.Itissimilartotheglottal sound withnoEnglishequivalentthat glottal stop.Theletter’aynrepresentsa for non-Arabstoproduce:the’aynand Arabic hastwosoundsthatareverytricky TRICKY SOUNDS example, theword transliterations, botharepronounced.For 332 pronounced ‘al-ham-mam’. While strivingto reflectthelanguageas The wholethingisfurthercomplicated The presenceofsoundsunknowninEu- LANGUAGE Sounds ••Tricky al-hammam (toilet),is well-wishing. As an put ahalttothestreamofgreetings and with neithersidewantingtobethe oneto counter canbecomeadrawn-out affair, dressing amanorwoman.Asimple en- slightly, dependingonwhetheryou’re ad- sponse toeach.Thesesometimes vary in Englishandthereisareciprocal re- key hot water hotel electricity camp site blanket air-conditioning address leavingtoday. We’re bathroom? isthe Where night? How muchisitper noisy/dirty. It’s very Iseeit? May for twonights for onenight double room single room (cheap) room a...? Do youhave tobooka... I’d like ACCOMMODATION thing. come acrossseveralversionsofthesame locals havedone.Don’tbesurprisedifyou and otherniceties. greetings, enquiriesintotheother’shealth people thatdoesn’tbeginwithprofuse and it’sraretoseeanyinteractionbetween Arabs placegreatimportanceoncivility CONVERSATION &ESSENTIALS toilet soap shower manager How muchisitper locals will loveit. pression atthe appropriate momentthe outs, butifyoucome upwiththerightex- you’re notexpected toknowalltheinsand person? Arabic greetingsaremoreformalthan al-miftaH saboon funduq/otel twalet/bet al-mai doosh al-’anwaan al-bataaniyya/al-Hrem al-mudeer mukhayam mai saakhina kahraba mumkin shoofa? wayn al-Hammam? ghurfa mufrada ghurfabisareerayn kondishon/mookayif fi ...? ’addayshbellayli? ’addayshlikulwaHid? niHnamusafireenal-youm biddee ehjuz... kteer dajeh/wuskha layltayn li layliwaHde ghurfa (rkheesa) ajnabi lonelyplanet.com (foreigner), LANGUAGE

333 (m/f) (m/f) (m/f) (m/f) (m/f) (m/f) ma sha’ Allah ma sha’ shu-ismik? / (m/f) (God willing), an an (God willing), (’ala al-khareeta)? keef boosal ala ...? shoo Hal shanki had? tanee mafraq fursa sa’ida into min wayn inta/inti? shu-ismak kayfak/kayfik? mumkin tfarjeeni mumkin tasharrafna mabrouk! LANGUAGE •• Directions •• LANGUAGE bikher il-Hamdu lillah laHza dughri inta/inti bitHeb ...? ismi ... ismi kayf Haalak/Haalik? kayf ana ma bHeb ... mushkila mafi mushkili/moo ma’alesh in sha’ Allah in sha’ ’ala yameen ’ala ana min ... kam kilometre? kam hon/honeek ’ala yasaar/shimaal ’ala amaam/iddaam muqaabil min hon min ... ana bHeb aasif/aasifa! aasif/aasifa! homm inta/inti hiyya huwa niHna (when departing) (lit: you honour us) ana expression you’ll hear over and over again. expression you’ll hear is Another common one (God’s will be done), sometimes a useful (God’s will be done), about why answer to probing questions you’re not married yet. How are you? opposite straight ahead at the next corner this way here/there in front of I you he she we you they DIRECTIONS How do I get to ...? Canshow me you the map)? (on How many kilometres? What street is this? on the left on the right How’re doing? you thank you. Fine What’s your name? My name is ... Pleased to meet you. Nice to meet you. Where are you from? I’m from ... Do you like ...? I like ... I don’t like ... Sorry! No problem. Never mind. Just a moment. Congratulations! or ‘Will ‘Is the bus coming?’ Questions like elicit the open later?’ generally the bank be response: , (and (m/f)

salaam salaam (m/f) (How is (How is na’iman (m/f) bikher il- bikher (m/f)/ (m/f) or just (I wish you (I wish you (pl) (m/f) tikram/tikrami (How is the fam- (Welcome) or shukran jazeelan ahlan sabaH ’an-noor kayf es-saHa? es-saHa? kayf lahza min fadlak/i ’afwan wa alaykum as-salaam as-salaam wa alaykum kayf il’ayli? kayf ’afwan shukran kteer/ shukran tafaddal/tafaddali il-Hamdu lillah al as-salaama al as-salaama lillah il-Hamdu min fadlak/fadleek min (Fine, thank you). ahlan beek/i ahlan sabaH al-khayr sabaH masa ’an-noor masa masa’ al-khayr masa’ law samaHt/samaHti law marHabtain tisbaH ’ala khayr wa inta min ahlu shukran (peace be upon you), to which the to which be upon you), (peace ma’a salaama/Allah ma’ak (polite) (come in) (request) (response) ahlan wa sahlan ay aiwa/na’am (response) la marHaba kul sana wa intum bikher intum bikher kul sana wa Arrival in one piece is always something Arrival in one piece is After having a bath or shower, you will a bath or shower, you After having The most common greeting is greeting common The most much. (response) (response) (response) Hi. which roughly means ‘heavenly’ and boils which roughly means along the lines of down to an observation ‘nice and clean now, eh’. will often beto be grateful for. Passengers greeted with God for your safe arrival). (thank well for the coming year). well for the to you often hear people say

Pardon/Excuse me. Pardon/Excuse You’re welcome. One moment, please. Thank very you Thank you. Please. Please. Please. Yeah. No. Yes. Good night. Good night. your health?), ily?). The response is usually lillah Hamdu Good evening. Good evening. Good morning. Good morning. Goodbye. It’s an important custom in Jordan to ask after a person’s or their family’s health when greeting, eg Hello. Hello. Hi. lonelyplanet.com tafaddaloo upon you be peace). If you get invited to a peace). If you get invited upon you be for any or are around birthday celebration greeting the common of the big holidays, is correct reply is correct reply alaykum alaykum LANGUAGE

Band-Aids aspirin antiseptic to nuts to bees to penicillin to aspirin to antibiotics ... I’m allergic epileptic diabetic asthmatic I’m ... here. It hurts isill. My friend I’m ill. HEALTH west east south north far near 334

I’m sick. I’m sick. Help me! EMERGENCIES SIGNS Shame (onyou)! Go away! police hospital doctor thepolice! Call Women’s Toilet Men’s Toilet Police Hospital Information Prohibited Closed Open Exit Entrance (said bywoman) sharq LANGUAGE ••Emergencies qareeb shimaal plaster aspireen/aspro mutahhi min al-binisileen minal-mudadalHayawi andee Hasasiyya... andee ... beeyujani hon sadeeqi maareed ana maareed/mareeda gharb janub ba’eed min al-mukassarat min al-naHl min al-aspireen saraa/alsaa’a sukkari azmitrabo sadeeqati maareeda aayb! imshee!/rouh minhoon! ash-shurta al-mustash-fa duktoor/tabeeb ittusil bilshurta! ana mareed/mareeda saa’idoonee! ΎήϟϡΎϤΣ ϝΎΟήϠϟ ΎϨϟϡΎϤΣ ˯ΎδϨϠϟ (brandname) ΕΎϣϮϠόϣ ϲϔθΘδϣ (m)/ ΝϭήΧ ωϮϨϤϣ Δσήη ΡϮΘϔϣ ϞΧΪϣ ϖϠϐϣ (f) (m/f) (m/f)

Could you write it Could youwrite I wantaninterpreter. I don’tspeakArabic. I speakalittleArabic. German French English I speak... I don’tunderstand. I understand. Do youspeakEnglish? LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES tampons sunblock cream stomach ache sanitary napkins prescription pregnant medicine hospital headache fever diarrhoea contraceptive condoms chemist/pharmacy 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 NUMBERS in Arabic? How doyousay...

down, please?

faransi ingleezi anabaHki... almaani ana afham tasatash tamantash sabatash sittash khamastash arbatash talaatash yeetnaa’sh yeedaa’sh ’ashara tis’a tamanya saba’a sitta khamsa arba’a talaata itnayn/tintayn waHid sifr fuwat saHiyya mumkintiktabhu, minfadlak? as-sayidiliyya kayft’ul...bil’arabi? anamabifham biddee mutarjem bitiHki ingleezi? wajaa-ras Harara is-haal waseela leemana’al-Ham kaboot kotex krem wakiminashiltal-shams wajaa filbattu wasfa/rashetta Hamel dawa mustashfa ana mabeHkiarabi ana baHkiarabishway (brandname) lonelyplanet.com ٠ ١ ٢ ٣ ٤ ٥ ٦ ٧ ٨ ٩ ١٠ ١١ ١٢ ١٣ ١٤ ١٥ ١٦ ١٧ ١٨ ١٩ LANGUAGE 335 masaari sheeket siyaHiyya kil youm soubeH ba’ad deher massa layl emta byeftaH? emta bi sakkir? mumkin talfen min fadlak wayn/fayn feeni eshtiree ...? hada ghalee kheteer mumkin shoof? halla’ b’adayn al waket bakkeer ma’qar baddee sarref ... ba’ad bukra ba’ad ma fee ma addaysh essa’aa? addaysh LANGUAGE •• Paperwork Paperwork •• LANGUAGE bi addaysh? bi rkhees/arkhas sagheer/asghar maktab al-siyaHa maktab shu hada? shu kim waHid? kim addaysh/bikam? fee ...? fee kbeer/akbar ghaali bukra imbaarih daqeeqa al-ma’abad al-fuloos/al-masaari emta? shahr msakkar al-youm usboo’ maftuH saa’a sana youm open? close? What time does it I’d like to make a month year morning afternoon evening night TIME & DATES time? What’s the When? now after on time early late daily today tomorrow day after tomorrow yesterday minute hour day week What is this? How much? How many? How much is it? That’s too expensive. Is there ...? There isn’t (any). May I look at it? big/bigger cheap/cheaper closed expensive money open small/smaller temple tourist office ... I want to change money cheques travellers it What time does call. telephone Where I buy ...? can

) ٣٠٠٠ ٢٠٠٠ ١٠٠٠ ٢٠٠ ١٠٠ ٩٠ ٨٠ ٧٠ ٦٠ ٥٠ ٤٠ ٣٠ ٢٢ ٢١ ٢٠ paspor

(or before a noun) maktab al-haalef al-maktaba al-medeena al-qadeema/ al-medeena l’ateeqa maktab al-jawazaat wa al-hijra al-masref/al-saraf al ghaseel meet ( as-sayidiliyya ana abHath ... aa’n isti’laamaat maktab at-telefon/ maktab wayn/fayn ...? wayn/fayn ’alf ’alfayn talaat-alaf talaateen miyya miyyatayn ’ashreen ’ashreen tamaneen tis’een wHid wa ’ashreen wHid wa itnayn wa ’ashreen arba’een khamseen sitteen saba’een makan al-meelad/-wilaada makan tareekh al-meelad/-wilaada tareekh al-jenseeya al-mata’am maktab al-bareed maktab markaz al-medeena markaz al-medeena al-dukhool/al-madkhal jawaz al-safar jawaz al-matHaf al-jumruk al-jaami’/al-masjid al-sooq tasriH ash-shurta ash-shaati’/al-plaaj/al-baHr

al-ism al-funduq/al-otel al-bank

visa/ta’shira al-khurooj

restaurant telephone office post office passport & office immigration police old city mosque museum newsagents laundry market hotel information desk exchange office exit customs entrance city/town city centre beach chemist/pharmacy bank I’m looking for ... I’m Where is the ...? visa SHOPPING & SERVICES permit place of birth nationality passport date of birth name 2000 3000 PAPERWORK 200 1000 90 100 70 80 40 50 60 22 30 20 21 lonelyplanet.com LANGUAGE January pleteness, themonthsfromJanuaryare: the easiestsolution,butforsakeofcom- Talking about,say,Juneas‘monthsix’is eastwards, thenamesarequitedifferent. is bus station airport isthe...? Where Public Transport TRANSPORT 12th 11th 10th 9th 8th 7th 6th 5th 4th 3rd 2nd 1st Months HejiraCalendar The December November October September August July June May April March February as inEnglish(Januaryis the monthshavevirtuallysamenames in theArabworld.InEgyptandwestwards, 11 daysearliereach(Western)year. dar, soimportantMuslimdateswilloccur is 11daysshorterthantheWesterncalen- The Islamicyearhas12lunarmonthsand Months Calendar Western The Sunday Saturday Friday Thursday Wednesday Tuesday Monday 336 maHattat al-karaj There are two Western calendars in use There aretwoWesterncalendarsinuse octobir tammooz ayyaar LANGUAGE ••Transport Huzayraan nisaan azaar al-jum’a ’aab al-aHad kanoon ath-thani tishreen al-awal al-tenayn at-talaata shubaat al-mataar as-sabt al-khamees kaanoon al-awal tishreen ath-thani and so on), but in Lebanon and andsoon),butinLebanon aylool al-arba’a maHattat al-baas/ wayn/fayn ...? Zuul-Hijja Zuul-Qeda Shawwal Ramadan Shaban Rajab Jumaada al-Akhira Jumaada al-Awal Rabay ath-Thaani Rabi’ al-Awal Safar MoHarram yanaayir , October , October

to/from ticket 2nd class 1st class wesithere? May Isithere? May Please waitforme. please. Stop here, mewhen Please tell trip take? Does thisbusgo I wanttogo... Which busgoesto...? train plane bus (small) boat boat/ferry ... leave/arrive? What timedoesthe train station ticket office petrol diesel (30)litres. I’d like Please fillitup. station? aservice Where’s Is thistheroadto...? tour guide motorcycle horse 4WD donkey car camel bicycle a...? canIhire Where a... tohire I’d like Transport Private How longdoesthe How manybuses egtt . we getto... per daygoto...? to ...? biddee talaateenleeter min fadlak(emla/abee)Ha wayn/fayn maHaltetal-benzeen? Hal Hazaal-tareeqeela...? sayyaara al-baas at-tazaakar al-qitaar Hsaan ila/min jamal daraja oola bisklet daraja taaniya Hmaar al-markib/as-safeena al-dalee as-siyaaHi/ maktab at-tazaakar ash-shakhtura maHattat al-qitaar kamsa’aar-riHla? aysaa’abiyitla’/biyusal...? benzeen deezel wayn/fayn feeniesta’jer...? biddee esta’jer... mumkin ni’oodhoon? mumkin a’oodhoon? ’umal ma’aroofistanna wa’if hoon’umalma’aroof ’umal ma’aroofilleelamma kam baasbiyruHbennahar...? hal-baas biyruH’ala...? ana badehruHala... aya baasbiyruH’ala...? motosikl jeep noosal la... al-teeyara al-murshid as-siyaaHi lonelyplanet.com LANGUAGE 337 (brand name) © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Ha fa daat Haleeb bebe’ kursee atfaal muneeyai arabeyet atfaal kursee sayyaara leel bebe’ kursee sayyaara pamperz fee ...? biddee ...

(baby’s milk) (diapers) LANGUAGE •• Travel with Children Children with •• Travel LANGUAGE Are children allowed? Are Hal yousmah leel atfaal? TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN WITH TRAVEL Is there a/an ...? I need a/an ... car baby seat disposable nappies nappies formula highchair potty stroller Do you mind if I breastfeed here? mumkin aradda hon? Also available from Lonely Planet: Middle East Phrasebook al-benzeen khalas or aamalt hads mafi benzeen nzel al-doolab al-sayyaara/-mutusikl ma bit door al-sayyaara/-mutusikl it’atlit (‘an ...) al-sayyaara/-mutusikl bidee mekaneesyan fayn/wayn mumkin an addf’aa? fayn/wayn mumkin (kam sa’a) mumkin aas-f hon? mumkin aas-f (kam sa’a) I’ve had an accident. I’ve run out of petrol. I have a flat tyre. The car/motorbike won’t start. The car/motorbike has broken down (at ...). Where do I pay? I need a mechanic. (How long) can I park here? can I park (How long) lonelyplanet.com © Lonely Planet Publications 338 Glossary

This glossary lists terms used in this book ibn – son of…; also bin that may be unfamiliar to those living il-balad – downtown; the centre of town outside Jordan. Most are Arabic words imam – religious leader commonly used in Jordan but some ab- breviations are also included. See the boxed jebel – hill or mountain text (opposite ) for architectural terminol- JETT – Jordan Express Travel & Tourism, the major private ogy, which may come in handy when visit- bus company in Jordan ing the sights of Petra and Jerash. JTB – Jordan Tourism Board

abu – father of… keffiyeh – checked scarf worn by Arab men agal – black headrope used to hold a keffiyeh in place kilim – flat, woven mat ain (ayoun) – spring or well Koran – see Quran amir – see emir Kufic – a type of highly stylised old Arabic script arak – alcoholic spirit ASEZA – Aqaba Special Economic Zone Authority maidan – town or city square Ayyubid dynasty – the dynasty founded by Saladin malek – king (Salah ad-Din) in Egypt in 1169 malekah – queen Mamluk dynasty – literally ‘slaves’; Muslim dynasty bab (abwab) – gate named for a former slave and soldier class Badia – stony desert medina – old walled centre of any Islamic city Bedouin (pl Bedu) – nomadic desert dweller mezze – starters, appetisers beit – house mihrab – niche in the wall of a mosque that indicates the beit ash-sha’ar – goat-hair Bedouin tent direction of Mecca bin – son of…; also ibn minaret – tower on top of a mosque muezzin – mosque official who calls the faithful to caliph – Islamic ruler prayer, often from the minaret caravanserai – large inn enclosing a courtyard, providing accommodation and a marketplace for Nabataean – ancient trading civilisation based around caravans Petra Circassians – Muslims from the Caucasus who emigrated nargileh – water pipe used to smoke tobacco (used to Jordan in the 19th century mainly by men)

Decapolis (Latin) – literally ‘10 cities’; this term refers to oud – Arabic lute a number of ancient cities in the Roman Empire, including Amman and Jerash PLO – Palestine Liberation Organisation deir – monastery qala’at – castle or fort eid – Islamic feast qasr – castle or palace Eid al-Adha – Feast of Sacrifice marking the pilgrimage qibla – direction of Mecca to Mecca Quran – holy book of Islam Eid al-Fitr – Festival of Breaking the Fast, celebrated qusayr – small castle or palace throughout the Islamic world at the end of Ramadan emir – Islamic ruler, leader, military commander or Ramadan – Muslim month of fasting governor; literally ‘prince’ RSCN – Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature

haj – the pilgrimage to Mecca Saladin – (Salah ad-Din in Arabic) Kurdish warlord who hammam(at) – natural hot springs; also a Turkish steam re-took Jerusalem from the Crusaders; founder of the

GLOSSARY bath Ayyubid dynasty haram – forbidden area servees – service taxi hejab – woman’s headscarf sheesha – see nargileh © Lonely Planet Publications GLOSSARY 339

AND A TRICLINIUM IS…? Reading a guidebook to some of Jordan’s most famous sights can seem like an exercise in lin- guistics – including Latin, Nabataean, Greek, Arabic and the languages of geography and classical architecture. Listen to any tour guide, especially at Petra, and you’ll assume they’re expert in all of them. But you don’t have to be a polyglot to make the most of Jordan’s wonders. Have a quick shoofti (Arabic word meaning ‘you (female) looked’) at the glossary of architectural terms below and you’ll soon know your pediments from your porticos. agora – open meeting space for commerce baetyls – divine stones capitals – carved tops of columns cardo maximus – Roman main street, running north-south colonnade – row of columns Corinthian – look for fluted columns with leafy capitals decumanus – Roman main street, from east to west Doric – look for unfluted columns with plain capitals high place – sacred site on mountain-top loculi – grave necropolis – cemetery nymphaeum – literally ‘temple of the Nymphs’; public baths, fountains and pools pediment – triangular crowning feature on front of building portico – structure supported by columns propylaeum – gateway or grand entrance stele – commemorative stone or column with inscriptions temenos – sacred courtyard tetrapylon – an archway with four entrances triclinium – Roman dining room sheikh – venerated religious scholar, dignitary or Umayyad dynasty– first great dynasty of Arab Muslim venerable old man rulers siq – gorge or canyon (usually created by tectonic forces umm – mother of… rather than by wind or water) UNRWA – UN Relief & Works Agency souq – market wadi – valley or river bed formed by watercourse, dry tell – ancient mound created by centuries of urban except after heavy rainfall (plural: widyan) rebuilding Trans-Jordan – Jordan’s original name zerb – Bedouin oven, buried in the sand GLOSSARY © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’