6565

EXPERIENCES EXPERIENCES Forget what you think you think you you what Forget says , about know Summers. This Hannah fast places going island’s

LITTLE TEASE Photograph by Lenise Zerafa/AlamyPhotograph Stock by Photo ### EXPERIENCES

ave you ever taken travel advice from your nan? Probably not. Nans are, MALTA – THAT well, nans. And they are also persistent. “Go to Malta,” my nan enthused – for 15 COMPACT Hyears. The thing is, I trust my nan. She has excellent taste in biscuits, she knows that L’Oreal Elnett hairspray is the best on the ISLAND OFF market and she makes a killer cuppa. But travel advice? No thanks, G’ma. But then something unexpected SICILY – HAS happened. Malta – that compact 27km by 14km island off the southwest coast of Italy – started to get, dare I say it, cool. First STARTED TO there was the work of Renzo Piano, the world-acclaimed architect of the Shard, who was flown in to totally redesign the capital’s GET COOL city wall, and more, in a controversially modern style. Then Brangelina chose the archipelago for their honeymoon. Soon sites, the plain-on-the-outside, ornate-on- after, in spring 2015, EDM DJ Annie Mac the-inside St John’s Co-Cathedral is the debuted a dance festival on the island. most majestic church on the island, the Named Lost & Found, it takes in Malta’s type you’d wander around stroking the prime sea-view spots with a line-up of big- walls, because it’s that sumptuous (even name DJs who, for four days at the end of my partner, the most reluctant church-goer, March, will fuel a 72-hour party for Mark admitted he was impressed). Ronson and Groove Armada fans. For something more modern, architect And so, finally, I went to Malta – and Renzo Piano’s redesign of many city I’m still talking about it. This four-day buildings has seen the first new additions CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Comino Island’s Blue Lagoon: does what it says on the tin; breakdown shows you how to cover the to for hundreds of years; it includes Malta is full of pretty harbours, like this one in best of the island – from empty beaches, to a towering, modern city gate, a reworked Vittoriosa; Lost & Found festival has attratced traditional Maltese snacks. The best bit? It parliament building and an open-air theatre a new kind of holidaymaker; port city Valletta won’t break the bank. Thanks, Nan. in the ruins of the Second World War- bombed Royal Opera House (the island Day one – see the capital holds the record for the heaviest, sustained Then, of course, Ftira is essentially area is seeing a new wave of sophisticated hauling in their morning’s catch from the Valletta is the island’s capital city, a bombing attack during the war). The work there’s food. Try a bread with a hole wine bars and al fresco restaurants (for comfort of a harbourside cafe. in it, and a staple UNESCO World Heritage Site due to the has been controversially received, but for coffee from Cafe of Maltese cuisine. drinks, try Trabuxu, set in a 350-year-old WATCH For a mid-morning snack, make your concentration of historic monuments. The me at least, it’s well worth strolling by, not Prego, a timewarp Make sure you wine cellar). For late-night eating, Badass way to the city of Rabat, and visit Crystal city, which according to its founder was least to see the refreshing blend of old and café with the same also try timpana, Burgers serves beers alongside the best Palace, a bakery with a line down the street a macaroni and ‘built by gentlemen, for gentlemen’, is a new in a city that’s so steeped in history – so tiles from the 1960s bolognese bake patties on the island, and the biggest I’ve CANDY- where locals leave with greasy paper bags grid of elegant 16th-century streets, steep much so that UNESCO has described it as and – judging by the encased in pastry. seen, well, ever. Try one before or after a full of cheese and pastry puffs – another burton-Lee; (Lost & Found) Dyson; (Valletta) Luke Frank Bach/Alamy Photographs by (Comino and Vittoriosa) Christian Kober/ John War steps and baroque architecture that’ll rival ‘one of the most concentrated historic areas speed I received my few vodka and Kinnies – Kinnie is the local, Maltese delicacy known as pastizz. Fill up the prettiest European towns. In terms of in the world’. Like I said – cool. drink – the same waiters, too. For an island neon-orange fizzy drink, with a sweet and COLOURED on cheesy pies before a walk through the classic, ftira is a Maltese take on pizza (in bitter Tango-meets-Aperol flavour. adjoining hilltop city of , an elegant, the sense that it’s dough with more food on golden-walled citadel with pricey mansions top) – although it irks the locals if you start Day two – tour the island FISHING BOATS and narrow streets, whose history traces calling it pizza. Served without cheese and The good thing about Malta is that its small back 4,000 years. It’s one of Europe’s best, tomato, typical toppings include a salt-fest size means you can drive across to the if somewhat overlooked, ancient walled of fennel, capers and anchovies – the best other side of the island in no more than cities, which balances an extraordinary mix we had was at Nenu the Artisan Baker, a an hour, while car hire is crazy cheap (I’m BOBBING, AND of medieval and baroque architecture with backstreet bakery that’s convenient for talking around £10 a day). If you plan well, mega views over the countryside. sightseeing-induced hunger pangs. that means you can take in the best of the Hopping in the car again, St Julian’s, You’ll want a drink, or two, obviously. island’s villages and sights, while leaving the FISHERMEN on the north coast of the island, is a good Back in the 19th century, Strait Street was remainder of your trip to lap up the beaches. place for an evening hang, and here you the hangout of American and British sailors Start with a morning in , can try some of the heartiest food on the calling in the port of Valletta. The street, which every Sunday hosts Malta’s biggest HAULING IN island (with mammoth portions). It’s not for which at the time was named ‘The Gut’, fish market. At other times of the day you everyone, but cooking with rabbit is a big featured a handy collection of brothels, bars can find candy-hued fishing boats bobbing deal in Malta, and one of the best local food and restaurants. Now the far-from-gritty - around the harbour, or watch the fishermen THEIR CATCH experiences is at Gululu, a harbourside 66 67 EXPERIENCES

skirting along clifftops (stopping at the limestone arch of the Azure Window) and admiring a skyline dominated by 46 grand churches that tower over sleepy villages. The neo-romantic Ta’Pinu basilica, which juts out from acres of green fields and is visible from several points on the island, is without question Prioritise a trip to one of the most Ta’Pinu basilica: not spectacular church only is it structurally impressive, the story façades I’ve seen. behind it is interest- Round off your ing too, and records day with a beachside suggest it’s stood in its position since at meal in one of the least 1575. tranquil coves dotting the island – in Mgarr ix-Xini, the restaurants serve well-priced fresh octopus salad and rabbit ravioli.

Day four – flop on the beaches Malta’s beaches don’t get the attention they deserve – visit in June or September and you’ll have empty stretches of coastline all to yourself. If you really want to work for it, Formm i-Rin is one of the most remote, and located on the northwestern Maltese coast. Our visit included a 20-minute schlep down ABOVE: Malta is home to several truly a heather-heavy path, but the reward is impressive churches, such as this one – peace and quiet and clear, gentle waves. St Joseph Church in Kalkara Creek The tiny island of Comino – population, one – is a must for the too-good-to-be- true beaches. Speedboats ferry locals restaurant with pizza (different to and tourists over, whizzing into a cove of Maltese ‘pizza’, it’s more doughy and has highlighter-blue water. Walk across the a hole in the centre). Try it, but make sure COMINO’S island (ten minutes max) and you’ll arrive you leave room for the dish of the trip, at the Blue Lagoon – vodka-clear sea that al dente spaghetti tossed with generous takes on a dazzling turquoise hue in all your chunks of seared rabbit and a garlic- BLUE LAGOON pictures (no filter necessary). You could infused, gravy-like sauce – a simple way to easily spend the day lapping up the sunshine try the island’s most popular meat. here, but you’d be missing the main island of HAS VODKA- Malta’s own impressive offerings – including Day three – get active on Gozo Golden Bay, a wide stretch of butterscotch- Eating your way around the cities is grand coloured sand with a few casual beach bars and all, but flying to Malta and not taking CLEAR WATER serving chilled Cisk, Malta’s local brew. e the short ferry ride over to Gozo would be mistake. The little sister island moves at a Photograph by Christian Kober/John Warburton-Lee more leisurely pace and seems to step back WITH A in time, largely thanks to the heavy farming focus. Ideal, then, that the best way to see GETTING THERE it is on a chilled bike ride; we toured the island on two wheels in the capable hands DAZZLING Air Malta offers flights from £75 of Walter, the guide from Gozo Adventures, one way, airmalta.com; Palazzo who tells us how he’s seen the island’s Prince D’Orange is a 17th-century visitors shift from ageing package holiday TURQUIOSE boutique hotel in Valletta with nightly rates from £80 per guests (my nan) to a younger, cooler crowd room, palazzoprincemalta. (us) looking for a mix of culture, activity, com; use Airbnb for the rest of and beach which, crucially, won’t make your HUE. NO FILTER the island, airbnb.com; head to bank balance weep. visitmalta.com for information. His half-day route bike tour has you climbing hills in lush, green countryside, NECESSARY 69