Armagnac Supplement 2010
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700 YEARS A CELEBRATION OF FRANCE'S OLDEST SPIRIT PRODUCER PROFILES Maison Gélas A love of perfection he Maison Gélas, created at their natural degree of ageing, for In 2010, following years of research, in 1865 by Baptiste Gélas, a the three major varieties used for Maison Gélas created Single White barrelmaker’s son, has been Armagnac, with at least 18 years in 60° – a unique eau-de-vie obtained T a family business for 150 the cask.” from the distillation of fine wines years, and is Gascon, heart and soul. The varieties are: made from two traditional grape It provides an insight into the Bas Armagnac 18 years 100% Folle varieties used in Armagnac: Baco different crafts and trades that have Blanche 44.8% and Folle Blanche. given birth not only to outstanding Bas Armagnac 18 years 100% Baco To better enjoy its delicate vintage Bas Armagnacs – aged 47.4% flavours the house recommends in casks in its chais, or special Bas Armagnac 18 years 100% Ugni tasting Single White 60° at room storehouses – but also to a range Blanc 48.8% temperature. of eaux-de-vie resulting from both But, it says: “Single White 60° know-how and a love of perfection. truly comes into its own when used The Maison Gélas offers up the as the base ingredient in cocktails key to its little bit of paradise and will and represents an exciting new initiate consumers in the magic of proposition for mixologists. ageing. “Single White 60° is also a great From the outset Maison Gélas has match for caviar, smoked fish or aged its Armagnacs variety by variety, with the finest slow-cooked pork saying: “This has helped us to offer meat, foie-gras and desserts such single varietal eaux-de-vie presented as lemon pie or Tatin aux Poires. Maison Gelas, 32190 Vic-Fezensac, France. gelas.com; email [email protected] Armagnac, the oldest French eau-de-vie is celebrating 7 centuries of history in 2010. 10-201 At the beginning of the 14th century, Maitre Vital 13 0 Dufour, prior of Eauze in Gascony, considered that this ARMAGN eau-de-vie had '40 virtues or uses' to 'conserve one's AC health and stay on top form'. RIVONS LA 0 ÉC SU E, I 0 R TE I . Today, Armagnac is an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, . 7 O . T . made essentially from 4 grape varieties : Ugni-Blanc, S R I E H T Folle blanche, Baco and Colombard. It covers 3 areas : ’ D P o A i Bas-Armagnac, Haut-Armagnac and Armagnac-Ténarèze. s s S o H r a C C N l e h c A The Armagnac eaux-de-vie belong to a 'terroir', that of T i M X © : 0 E e Gascony in the South West of France, and their i 0 h N p a 7 r g notoriety relies on the traditional production methods o E t o h H P carefully passed down through generations that makes 7 T - a b 0 l R a 0 n each one of them original an 'authors' eau-de-vie. é O P Y F d r E a S n A r R U e B As an aperitif, pure or with ice, in cocktails, as an S N : O I e F O u J q HI Y, r i STOR f h accompaniment to certain dishes, or as a digestive, p . a c r a g n n o Armagnac will seduce any palate. i g t a p e m c ar n w. o ww C Enjoy your tasting ... IN MODERATION II DRINKS INTERNATIONAL armagnac supplement DRINKSINT.COM aprIl 2010 Contents V Overview David Longfield on the tradition and the innovation that have combined to give Armagnac its unique identity VII 700th Anniversary left, ambrogio piazzonni, deputy head of the Vatican library. right, BnIa president pierre Tabarin. In march 2010, a In 2010 Armagnac is officially marking its delegation from the BnIa was presented with facsimiles of the 700th birthday, as confirmed by records in the Vital Dufour text of 1310 by the Vatican library Vatican Library Written & edited by David Longfield VIII-IX What makes Armagnac +44 (0)1293 590045 The Armagnac region, its terroirs, grapes and [email protected] distillation techniques Managing Editor Christian Davis +44 (0)1293 590047 XI Place in history [email protected] The place of Armagnac in French history; the Production Editor Jaq Bayles importance of vintages; and the drive to increase +44 (0)1293 590048 tourist awareness asterède [email protected] c Advertisement Manager XIII The future Justin Smith What’s in store for Armagnac in the next 700 rmagnac a +44 (0)1293 590041 years… Enjoy armagnac responsibly [email protected] Senior Sales Executive Carmen Poel Francesch +44 (0)1293 590042 carmen.poel@drinksint. Spirit of the soil com Sales Executive Renata Stefanovic eople who love Armagnac find fascination in its individuality; its rustic nature and the unpredictability +44 (0)1293 590043 of knowing what will be revealed in a bottle from the next, untried producer. And it’s exactly these [email protected] characteristics that deter other brandy lovers, who might prefer the classic lines of a Cognac. Publisher Armagnac is full of mystery – a product no doubt of an ancient lineage that goes back at least Russell Dodd P700 years (see page VII) and is celebrated in this supplement. Life is different in this part of France’s south west: +44 (0)1293 590052 Gascony. The pace is slower; the people are warm, hospitable and close to the soil. [email protected] This is echoed in the style of the brandy that Armagnac produces. Armagnac, it is said, reflects the personality of the people who make it. This would make sense, as the aim is to reflect as closely as possible the wine used and Drinks International, Gateway Place, 42a East Park, Crawley, West Sussex RH10 6AS the ground in which the grapes are grown, hence the methods of vinification and distillation are tailored to achieve United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)1293 590040 just this (page VIII). Pedants beware though: questions concerning precise quantities of this ester or that compound may well be met with an apologetic smile. Although the inner workings of the Armagnac alambic still are well understood in the ollection c region, it is not considered necessary to explain the alchemy involved. a I This self-belief typifies the fiercely individualistic streak that runs through the Gascony region and its people. They n combine to provide a potentially life-long voyage of discovery for any spirit drinker keen to explore the countless range of styles of Armagnac to be found. David Longfield Supplement Editor over pictures: B pictures: over c aprIl 2010 DRINKSINT.COM armagnac SUpplEmEnT DRINKS INTERNATIONAL III PRODUCER PROFILES House of Delord Family passion n 1893 in the village of Prosper’s grandsons, and the younger litres of eau-de-vie per hour. and diversity of Delord Armagnacs. Lannepax, the travelling generation represented by Jérôme The cellars hold more than 1,000 Labels can be personalised to distiller Prosper Delord and Sylvain. oak barrels which mature and protect order by the sure hand of Jacques founded the House of Located in the commune of the eaux-de-vie, dating from the 20th Delord who, with his quill and pot of I Delord, which became Armagnac Lannepax in the Bas-Armagnac century to the present day. The oldest China ink, makes every bottle a rare Delord Brothers when his two sons, region, the Delord vineyards Armagnacs are kept in glass demi- and exceptional item. Gaston and Georges, took on the comprise the Ugni Blanc, Baco, johns in a part of the cellars known as Delord Armagnacs come in either Armagnac flame and their father’s Colombard and Folle Blanche grape Le Paradis (Paradise). The oldest was a tall Ariane bottle or the more passion for the eau-de-vie. varieties. distilled in 1900. All bottles are hand- traditionally shaped Basquaise. Today the family tradition carries The family’s distillery uses two sealed using different coloured wax. on with Jacques and Pierre Delord, antique Sier alambics that give a The savoir-faire and old reserves traditional output of fewer than 30 from four generations allow consumers to appreciate and discover the characteristic aromas La Maison Delord, Rue Principale, 32190 Lannepax Gers, France. armagnacdelord.com; email jeromedelord@freefr Château de Castex d’Armagnac Heart of the region he Château de Castex These Armagnacs have been d’Armagnac is a very old placed Hors Concours and first great fortress, surrounded by vintage of Bas-Armagnac at the Paris T ramparts, built on the top Fair, mainly in 1855 and 1856. of a hill which dominated the plain The Château de Castex is in the all around. In the Middle Ages it was department of Gers in the heart assigned the defence of the region. of the most famous area of Bas- Since the end of the 18th century Armagnac. On an estate of about it has belonged to the Saint Pastou 300ha, 15ha (37 acres) are devoted to family. the vineyard (Baco and Ugni Blanc). Since then they have continually The soil is sand with clay pieces and produced and marketed Armagnac. iron-rich sand (boulbènes et sables One of the oldest bottles kept is fauves). dated 1820. The white wines intended for distillation come exclusively from the family estate. After the grape harvest, distillation takes place in December about 52-55° alcohol, and is stored vintages from 1936 to 1995.