700 years
a celebration of france's oldest spirit producer profiles Maison Gélas A love of perfection he Maison Gélas, created at their natural degree of ageing, for In 2010, following years of research, in 1865 by Baptiste Gélas, a the three major varieties used for Maison Gélas created Single White barrelmaker’s son, has been Armagnac, with at least 18 years in 60° – a unique eau-de-vie obtained T a family business for 150 the cask.” from the distillation of fine wines years, and is Gascon, heart and soul. The varieties are: made from two traditional grape It provides an insight into the Bas Armagnac 18 years 100% Folle varieties used in Armagnac: Baco different crafts and trades that have Blanche 44.8% and Folle Blanche. given birth not only to outstanding Bas Armagnac 18 years 100% Baco To better enjoy its delicate vintage Bas Armagnacs – aged 47.4% flavours the house recommends in casks in its chais, or special Bas Armagnac 18 years 100% Ugni tasting Single White 60° at room storehouses – but also to a range Blanc 48.8% temperature. of eaux-de-vie resulting from both But, it says: “Single White 60° know-how and a love of perfection. truly comes into its own when used The Maison Gélas offers up the as the base ingredient in cocktails key to its little bit of paradise and will and represents an exciting new initiate consumers in the magic of proposition for mixologists. ageing. “Single White 60° is also a great From the outset Maison Gélas has match for caviar, smoked fish or aged its Armagnacs variety by variety, with the finest slow-cooked pork saying: “This has helped us to offer meat, foie-gras and desserts such single varietal eaux-de-vie presented as lemon pie or Tatin aux Poires.
Maison Gelas, 32190 Vic-Fezensac, France. gelas.com; email [email protected]
Armagnac, the oldest French eau-de-vie is celebrating 7 centuries of history in 2010. 10-201 At the beginning of the 14th century, Maitre Vital 13 0 Dufour, prior of Eauze in Gascony, considered that this ARMAGN eau-de-vie had '40 virtues or uses' to 'conserve one's AC health and stay on top form'. RIVONS LA 0 ÉC SU E, I 0 R TE
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II Drinks International armagnac supplement drinksint.com APRIL 2010 Contents
V Overview David Longfield on the tradition and the innovation that have combined to give Armagnac its unique identity
VII 700th Anniversary Left, Ambrogio Piazzonni, deputy head of the Vatican Library. Right, BNIA president Pierre Tabarin. In March 2010, a In 2010 Armagnac is officially marking its delegation from the BNIA was presented with facsimiles of the 700th birthday, as confirmed by records in the Vital Dufour text of 1310 by the Vatican Library Vatican Library
Written & edited by David Longfield VIII-IX What makes Armagnac +44 (0)1293 590045 The Armagnac region, its terroirs, grapes and [email protected] distillation techniques Managing Editor Christian Davis +44 (0)1293 590047 XI Place in history [email protected] The place of Armagnac in French history; the Production Editor Jaq Bayles importance of vintages; and the drive to increase +44 (0)1293 590048 tourist awareness [email protected] C asterède Advertisement Manager XIII The future Justin Smith What’s in store for Armagnac in the next 700
A rmagnac +44 (0)1293 590041 years… Enjoy Armagnac responsibly [email protected]
Senior Sales Executive Carmen Poel Francesch +44 (0)1293 590042 carmen.poel@drinksint. Spirit of the soil com Sales Executive Renata Stefanovic eople who love Armagnac find fascination in its individuality; its rustic nature and the unpredictability +44 (0)1293 590043 of knowing what will be revealed in a bottle from the next, untried producer. And it’s exactly these [email protected] characteristics that deter other brandy lovers, who might prefer the classic lines of a Cognac. Publisher Armagnac is full of mystery – a product no doubt of an ancient lineage that goes back at least Russell Dodd P700 years (see page VII) and is celebrated in this supplement. Life is different in this part of France’s south west: +44 (0)1293 590052 Gascony. The pace is slower; the people are warm, hospitable and close to the soil. [email protected] This is echoed in the style of the brandy that Armagnac produces. Armagnac, it is said, reflects the personality of the people who make it. This would make sense, as the aim is to reflect as closely as possible the wine used and Drinks International, Gateway Place, 42a East Park, Crawley, West Sussex RH10 6AS the ground in which the grapes are grown, hence the methods of vinification and distillation are tailored to achieve United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)1293 590040 just this (page VIII). Pedants beware though: questions concerning precise quantities of this ester or that compound may well be met with an apologetic smile. Although the inner workings of the Armagnac alambic still are well understood in the ollection
C region, it is not considered necessary to explain the alchemy involved. This self-belief typifies the fiercely individualistic streak that runs through the Gascony region and its people. They combine to provide a potentially life-long voyage of discovery for any spirit drinker keen to explore the countless range of styles of Armagnac to be found. David Longfield Supplement Editor over pictures: B N I A pictures: over C
april 2010 drinksint.com armagnac SUPPLEMENT Drinks International III producer profiles House of Delord Family passion
n 1893 in the village of Prosper’s grandsons, and the younger litres of eau-de-vie per hour. and diversity of Delord Armagnacs. Lannepax, the travelling generation represented by Jérôme The cellars hold more than 1,000 Labels can be personalised to distiller Prosper Delord and Sylvain. oak barrels which mature and protect order by the sure hand of Jacques I founded the House of Located in the commune of the eaux-de-vie, dating from the 20th Delord who, with his quill and pot of Delord, which became Armagnac Lannepax in the Bas-Armagnac century to the present day. The oldest China ink, makes every bottle a rare Delord Brothers when his two sons, region, the Delord vineyards Armagnacs are kept in glass demi- and exceptional item. Gaston and Georges, took on the comprise the Ugni Blanc, Baco, johns in a part of the cellars known as Delord Armagnacs come in either Armagnac flame and their father’s Colombard and Folle Blanche grape Le Paradis (Paradise). The oldest was a tall Ariane bottle or the more passion for the eau-de-vie. varieties. distilled in 1900. All bottles are hand- traditionally shaped Basquaise. Today the family tradition carries The family’s distillery uses two sealed using different coloured wax. on with Jacques and Pierre Delord, antique Sier alambics that give a The savoir-faire and old reserves traditional output of fewer than 30 from four generations allow consumers to appreciate and discover the characteristic aromas
La Maison Delord, Rue Principale, 32190 Lannepax Gers, France. armagnacdelord.com; email jeromedelord@freefr Château de Castex d’Armagnac Heart of the region
he Château de Castex These Armagnacs have been d’Armagnac is a very old placed Hors Concours and first great fortress, surrounded by vintage of Bas-Armagnac at the Paris T ramparts, built on the top Fair, mainly in 1855 and 1856. of a hill which dominated the plain The Château de Castex is in the all around. In the Middle Ages it was department of Gers in the heart assigned the defence of the region. of the most famous area of Bas- Since the end of the 18th century Armagnac. On an estate of about it has belonged to the Saint Pastou 300ha, 15ha (37 acres) are devoted to family. the vineyard (Baco and Ugni Blanc). Since then they have continually The soil is sand with clay pieces and produced and marketed Armagnac. iron-rich sand (boulbènes et sables One of the oldest bottles kept is fauves). dated 1820. The white wines intended for distillation come exclusively from the family estate. After the grape harvest, distillation takes place in December about 52-55° alcohol, and is stored vintages from 1936 to 1995. They are in the property’s own still from the in new oak barrels for two years then not sold before they are 15 years old 19th century. put into old barrels for ageing. and remain in their barrels until the The brandy obtained is colourless, The Armagnacs of Castex are only moment of the sale. 32240 Castex d’Argmanac, France. email [email protected]/[email protected]
IV Drinks International armagnac supplement drinksint.com APRIL 2010 Introduction Winds of
BNIA collection
hange is not the first word page VII), distilling in this part of France south west France on January 24 2009, that necessarily springs has tended to be cutting edge. with wind gusts of at least 170km/h to mind when thinking The historical double pot still method devastating large swathes of the of Armagnac country was replaced in the early 1800s when the Aquitaine region’s forests. in the heart of Gascony (now traditional) continuous alambic still About 300,000ha of the forest were –C the region in France’s far south west was introduced – the early adoption of “seriously hit”, according to France’s that runs down the Atlantic coast from technology first developed in Arabia. National Centre for Private Forestry, with Bordeaux to Bayonne, and across to the And then there’s Baco – the as much as 60-70% of trees felled in the east, skirting the Pays Basque, along the controversial hybrid grape that’s still the most badly damaged areas. Spanish border to a point roughly south favourite of many involved in Armagnac Travelling through the region now, of Toulouse. production. It is the only hybrid variety you can still see the scars: corridors of Traditional, yes; rustic, yes; sleepy, (obtained from Folle Blanche and Noah uncleared fallen trees where the winds maybe; fiercely independent – most grapes) permitted in a French appellation whipped through. The event had a huge certainly. contrôlée region – which is enough in impact, emotional as well as financial, For a first-time visitor, there’s the climate itself to upset many a purist. on the whole area. Sandwiched between unarguably something captivating about has been But the grape was developed in the very Armagnac and the coast to the west, stepping into a part of the world that very much late 19th century by François Baco after Europe’s largest managed maritime pine takes great pride in doing the essential modified the phylloxera bug devastated vineyards forest has always protected the Armagnac things in life extremely well. by the big across Europe. Widely adopted in the vineyards against the worst excesses of Food lies at the heart of the region’s storm last 1920s, Baco is particularly resistant to the Atlantic weather systems. But damage culture, led, of course, by foie gras, the all sorts of vine pests and diseases, is on the scale seen here could change things famous – or infamous, depending on your year well adapted to the sandy soils of the in ways as yet unknown. point of view – pâté made from the liver Bas-Armagnac part of the region, and José Barbe, of négociant Millésimes & of fattened duck or goose. jose Barbe produces full, rounded, fruity brandies Tradition (Baron de Lustrac), says: “The Eat out here and you’re likely to be millesimes & well suited to ageing. All this made it climate has been very much modified enjoying locally sourced, naturally traDition the darling of the region until the 1970s, by the big storm last year. We notice the grown ingredients, the like of which it’s when concerns about the methanol wind much more now, and we had the almost impossible to find in most urban content of the Noah part of the hybrid snow this year too – unlike I have ever restaurants. led to moves to replace it. seen before.” And change? Well, it probably happens Much more recently, Armagnac has Disastrous though it was, maybe slowly around here, but in the case of experienced a violent climatic event, windstorm Klaus will in future come to Armagnac, you couldn’t argue that which may bring change to the region be seen as the single event that began they’re strangers to innovation. With whether it likes it or not. the next 700 years of Armagnac’s a history going back 700 years (see Windstorm Klaus struck Spain and illustrious history. DI april 2010 drinksint.com armagnac SUPPLEMENT Drinks International V producer profiles Château du Busca Historic vintages ince 1649, Armagnacs using traditional methods. have been produced at the At Château du Busca the vineyards Château du Busca Maniban, comprise Ugni Blanc and Colombard S in the heart of the Ténarèze grapes, which are single distilled region. Located between the Bas- (simple chauffe) to turn the wine into Armagnac and Haut Armagnac the spirit, which allows for greater regions, Ténarèze is the central area control of the whole process through of Armagnac production. continuous distillation. The siliceous clay soil of the After distillation, the Armagnacs Ténarèze imbues its Armagnacs are aged in oak barrels from the with typical characteristics of spice region, as was always the tradition in and prune aromas as well as vanilla, the 300-year-old château cellars. gingerbread or woody aromas, The same family has been producing a fuller bodied brandy producing Armagnac here for more than in the Bas-Armagnac region. than two centuries and it is the only The Château du Busca privately owned wine estate Armagnacs are distilled in in the Armagnac region to be one of the most ancient classified as a French Historic distilleries in Gascony. Monument. blends – XO No1 and Hors d’Age until bottling. Château du Busca Today Armagnacs are still Armagnac Château – and 23 different vintages, which Armagnacs win awards in many produced at the château du Busca produces two are maintained in oak barrels international competitions.
Chateau du Busca Maniban, 32310 Mansencome, France. Tel: +33 (0)5 62 28 40 38. busca-maniban.com; email [email protected] Château du Tariquet Estate exclusivity hâteau du Tariquet, built in distillation, it is distinguished by from Château du Tariquet comes 1683, is owned and run by the single passage of the eau-de-vie uniquely from the ageing in the Grassa family – several through the alambic. barrels. C generations of winegrowers. The 100-year-old cellars quietly The naturally light tint is due They control the winemaking, safeguard the barrels, or “pièces”, to the alchemy between the distillation, production, vintage as they are called. Each variety and delicately toasted oak and the selection, blending and bottling each vintage is distilled and aged eau-de-vie. operations, thus guaranteeing the separately. The blend, a true savoir- authenticity and the quality of their New barrels are always used for faire, develops its identity and production. the first few years of ageing. style after a long period of Château du Tariquet selects lightly ageing. Tariquet sales success toasted barrels exclusively from the These Bas-Armagnacs and strengths: tallest oaks in the French forests, represent a story of people, All the grapes used for producing reputed for their fine grain. combined with origins of “terroir” the Bas-Armagnac are exclusively The colour of the Bas-Armagnacs similar to those of Cuban cigars, harvested from the vineyards on the hence they make a wonderful estate. combination. Château du Tariquet At Château du Tariquet, the is very proud of its friendship distillation takes place in an and sponsorship of the famous authentic Armagnac alambic heated International Habano Festival every by wood. Known as continuous year since February 2005.
Château du Tariquet, 32800 Saint-Armand, France. tariquet.com; email [email protected]
VI Drinks International armagnac supplement drinksint.com APRIL 2010 Anniversary 700 years and
t’s impossible to know what is • it heals hepatitis if one drinks it soberly, the world’s oldest distilled spirit • it heals gout, Calendar of events for 2010, – Russia and Poland each stakes • cankers, ‘700 years of Armagnac’ its claim to being the oldest vodka • and fistula by ingestion, producer – as the historical trails • it heals wounds by application. January July-August Ivanish into the mists of time. • Frequent anointment of a paralysed Publication of the book L’Armagnac Summer festivities throughout But one thing for certain is that member will render it to its normal state. pour les Nuls (Armagnac for Armagnac Armagnac is France’s oldest distilled • It enlivens the spirit, partaken in Dummies – in French only) 15-24th Jul, Termes d’Armagnac: spirit. moderation, February ‘Les Flammes de l’Armagnac’ Sitting in the Vatican archives is an • recalls the past to memory, Publication of the special edition historical enactment spectacle ancient Latin text entitled Very Useful • renders men joyous above all. Terre de Vin Armagnac focus (tourdetermes.fr) Book for Conserving One’s Health and • It makes disappear pain in the ears Condom: Banc de la Flamme de Other events: Country & Western Staying on Top Form. • and deafness, l’Armagnac 2009 Festival at Mirande; Temp Latino Though it was printed in 1531, the • it makes disappear stones in the bladder New York: participation at Ariane at Vic Fezensac (Latin American document is dated to the year 1310, • and the kidneys. Daguin’s restaurant D’Artagnan to music festival with salsa concerts) providing official evidence that Armagnac • If one anoints the head, it removes celebrate her 25th anniversary August (first two weeks) Jazz can claim to be at least 700 years old. headaches, particularly those coming March Festival in Marciac The text was written by one Prior Vital from a cold. The Vatican: a delegation from September Dufour, a clergyman, doctor and scientist • and when retained in the mouth, it Armagnac to retrieve the historical Condom: Grand Chapitre des from the Gascon town of loosens the tongue, text of Maitre Vital Dufour Mousquetaires d’Armagnac Eauze – now the capital of • emboldens the wit, if April October the Armagnac region. someone timid Annual launch of the spring Paris: special ‘700 years of It is generally accepted from time to time Blanche ‘white Armagnac’ Armagnac’ evening that distilled spirits were himself permits.” 12th, London: Masterclass, Beginning of the Flamme de first used as a form Showcase and Gala Dinner, ‘700 l’Armagnac – open house during of medicine, with the In March this year years of Armagnac’ distillation period production process a delegation from Other events: Flower market in the Armagnac events during the annual stemming from the Armagnac’s BNIA village of Fourcès wine fairs mystical world of travelled to Rome May Moscow: special ‘700 years of alchemy. to be presented with First consumer newsletter launch Armagnac evening – Armagnac/ And this is facsimile copies of Prior (armagnac.fr) Unesco ceremony 2010 reflected in Vital Dufour’s ancient text Armagnac route map launch, November Dufour’s text, in by the Vatican Library Escapades en Armagnac 2010 Eauze: annual eaux-de-vie which he describes authorities. Villeneuve-de-Marsan celebrates competition for the Armagnac the ‘Forty Virtues’ These copies will travel François Baco professionals to be derived from with the Bureau to all Other events: Bandas music festival, Continuation of the Flamme de the consumption the 700th anniversary Condom; Pentacôte féria, Vic- l’Armagnac and application of events happening around Fezensac France: Armagnac events the ‘Aygue Ardente’ (burnt water), or the world during 2010, June throughout the supermarket chains Armagnac spirit. before returning at the end of the year 11th, Chicago: special ‘700 years of December These are said, rather charmingly, to to their home in Armagnac in time to Armagnac’ evening event Toulouse: Armagnac week – events include: inaugurate the annual distillation period Departmental archives in Auch: and tastings in on-trade and retail “If one adds herbs, it extracts their celebrations, known as the Flamme de exhibition ‘700 years of Armagnac’ outlets virtues, l’Armagnac. Father’s Day promotion throughout • it makes redness disappear These events, says the Bureau, will act the French network of spirit For further details visit the • and heat in the eyes, as the symbolic launch of the next 700 merchants and Nicolas stores armagnac.fr website. • it stops tears from running, years of Armagnac’s history. april 2010 drinksint.com armagnac SUPPLEMENT Drinks International VII Production What makes Armagnac? Three regions – three soils
Bas-Armagnac Gascogne wines. Representing about 40% of the Accounting for about two-thirds of the region’s vineyards planted for distillation, the area produces production, Bas-Armagnac neighbours the Landes full-bodied eaux-de-vie that usually require long forest. “Bas”, meaning “low”, refers to the area’s ageing to fully reveal their complex, aromatic altitude. The area is known for its sandy, silty soils, character. Aged Ténarèze Armagnacs are in good sometimes having lumps of clay or high iron content. supply, because for a long period many producers The Baco grape (see below) is very well adapted to were content to market the easier-selling Bas- these conditions, so it dominates the vineyards here, Armagnacs. along with Ugni Blanc. Eaux-de-vie produced here are well liked for their generous, fruity nature, good Haut-Armagnac for use in younger blends. With the abundance of chalky limestone in the soil, the most easterly Armagnac region is known Armagnac-Ténarèze locally as “white Armagnac”. Only small pockets of The “harder”, less fertile clay and limestone soils vines remain among its rolling hills, and the region in Armagnac’s central region are good for wine grown here (primarily Ugni Blanc and Colombard) contributes only a very small percentage of the production, hence a significant portion of the grapes are used in the local Vin de Pays des Côtes de overall production of Armagnac.
Raw material – the grape varieties
There are 10 grape varieties permitted for use in has its opponents, but the grape is undergoing a Other varieties permitted include: Clairette de Armagnac, but in practice four principal ones resurgance in popularity, and heavy replantings are Gascogne, Plant de Graisse, White Jurançon, White contribute the vast majority of the volumes. under way. With modern-day demands on grape Mauzac, Mauzac Rose and Meslier Saint-François. growers to reduce their impact on the environment, Ugni Blanc is the modern-day Baco is finding renewed favour – its strong resistance workhorse of the region, now to many common vineyard diseases and pests Vinification accounting for more than means that it requires much lower levels of chemical Generally vinified to a level of 8-10% abv, white half of all the grapes used treatment than other varieties. wines for Armagnac production must be produced for Armagnac distillation. Its traditionally, except that no addition of sulphur popularity with producers is Folle Blanche was the dominant variety in Armagnac dioxide (normally used as an anti-oxidant) or not unrelated to the fact that until the devastation of the vineyards by phylloxera in chaptalisation – the addition of sugar in the form of it gives high yields of relatively 1878, but its low yields and susceptibility to mildew grape must before fermentation to raise the level of low-alcohol, neutral wine – mean it is now a rarity. However, its typically delicate, potential alcohol – are permitted. making it ideal for distilling – floral character makes Folle Blanche attractive for use The reasoning is that Armagnac must represent as and is also resistant to powdery in younger blends and in La Blanche (see page XIII). closely as possible the grapes and terroir from which mildew and grey rot. It produces middleweight, it is produced. Any impurities in the base wine can elegant eaux-de-vie, sometimes with light floral and Colombard is widely used in the Gascony region’s have a huge impact on the final distillate, particularly spice notes. dry white Vin de Pays wines. However, the herbal, as the fine lees (residue of grape skins and yeasts spicy character of its eaux-de-vie make it a popular left after fermentation) must be included in the wine Baco 22A is a hybrid variety – blending component for Armagnac. being distilled. the only one permitted in any French appellation contrôlée vineyard region (see page V). Armagnac facts Producing plump, full, rounded, l 800 winegrowers (500 independents and 300 cooperatives) fruity brandies that often l 40 négociant houses develop plummy characters after l annual production limited to 13,000 hectolitres of pure alcohol on average over five years (equivalent to long ageing, Baco dominated 4.6 million bottles) Armagnac production until l a significant stock of 161,000 hectolitres of pure alcohol (equivalent to 57.5 million bottles) the late 1970s, having been l 40% of production is exported to more than 100 countries developed by François Baco at the end of the 19th l largest market by value is Russia, also representing nearly 12% of export volumes; UK, Germany and century, before much of the stock was pulled up and Spain combined take one-third of exports replaced. l the range of styles includes 34% VS, 29% VSOP/Napoleon, 18% XO/Hors d’Age, 19% Vintage Created from Folle Blanche and Noah – a grape l there are 93 working continuous single alambics and 11 for double distillation of the labrusca family, as opposed to vinifera – Baco
VIII Drinks International Distillation – a singular art L’Alambic Armagnacais (Armagnac Still) This is the key to the very identity of Armagnac. each individual harvest, from each Almost all (about 95%) Armagnac is produced producer’s properties. The single in a traditional “alambic Armagnacais” copper distillation method is slower and still, which distils the wine a single time using the produces spirit at a lower degree of continuous method. By contrast, all Cognac is alcohol than double pot distillation. produced using the double pot still method, in The regulations permit eau-de-vie which the spirit is distilled twice, to a higher degree to come off the still at between of alcohol. 52-72°, but generally it emerges The single continuous Armagnac still was patent at 54-62°. Broadly speaking, this registered in 1818, and has been adapted and ensures that more of the aromatic improved by the region’s distillers ever since. In precursors and primary fruit 1936, the French appellation contrôlée authority flavours of the original wine and INAO officially banned double pot stills, so lees are preserved. until 1972 only continuous alambics were used. Only three producers now use double pot stills: The Armagnac alambic Samalens, Janneau and Delord. In the diagram, a basic illustration Regulations state that distillation must occur of the alambic Armagnacais, the between the end of the harvest and March 31 of chilled wine enters the system at the year following – the date can be and often is the top [1]. Under its own pressure brought forward, by decree. In practice though it rises up in the cooler/heater most distilling is completed by the middle of the column on the right. The cold wine January following harvest, largely due to the fact (yellow) surrounds the serpentine that the wine used must be as fresh as possible (blue), through which the hot eau-
(and is not preserved using SO2), but also because de-vie vapours are descending. This many of the growers involved produce on a small both heats the wine and cools the scale – a single barrel or two is not unusual. eau-de-vie as it runs out [11] into a One of Armagnac’s many unique characteristics container or barrel. is the persistence of the roving (‘ambulant’) distiller. When the heated wine reaches During the season, mobile alambics are wheeled the top of the heater, it runs out from producer to producer by the three remaining and across to the distillation providers of the service: Philippe Gironi, Marc St column [5], at a temperature of Martin and Patrick Michalouski. about 80°C. This column consists There is something more than a little magical of a number of horizontal plates bolted together, that the eau-de-vie receives as much exposure as about watching (feeling… smelling…) an Armagnac in which different apertures allow the wine to run possible to the fruit compounds in the original wine, alambic in operation. Derived from ancient origins down to the wood- or gas-fired boiler [7] and the thereby maximising its final flavour. in alchemy, the continuous system is enclosed resulting steam/vapour (blue) to rise back up. It is this last element that really marks the within its copper walls, and few people even among At the head of the column the top plate is already difference between Armagnac and Cognac, where Armagnac professionals seem ready to explain in hot enough, at about 92°, to evaporate the lightest, double distillation produces a much purer, higher detail what’s going on inside. most volatile alcoholic substances from the hot strength spirit. For some younger, commercial In contrast to its close cousin Cognac, Armagnac wine out through the swan’s neck [10]. Some of Armagnac blends, some double-distilled spirit is all about capturing the heart and character of these comprise the undesirable “heads” and it is is included in the blend, in order for the bottled these which never leave the product to be drinkable at a younger age. Ageing system, made to circulate When Armagnac is first put into the barrel to The traditional Armagnac cask holds about 400 litres and is made of local until they lose sufficient mature, it does contain a small proportion of heads Gascon oak. As demands on natural resources increase however, wood from alcohol to work their way and tails – the normally undesirable parts of the outside the area is having to be used, generally coming from the Limousin forest. down into the “vinasse” – the distillate – but nature deals with any potential The eau-de-vie lies in new casks for between 6 months and 2 years, until the spent organic matter and problems. “For Cognac tails are bad,” says Marquis cellar master decides it has taken on enough wood characters, at which point water in the bottom of the de Montesquiou president Bruno Gazaniol, “but for the spirit is transferred into older barrels. Over the years, the woody flavours boiler. us it’s good. They help to give more flavour during are moderated as the alcohol level reduces and other elements such as vanilla, Clearly the plates at the ageing, but they evaporate during the process.” prune and ‘rancio’ (more developed flavours associated with oxygenation) and lower end of the column The lower strength produced in Armagnac preserved fruits come to the fore. are the hottest, so different distillation makes the end result less uniform than in There are few permitted additives, which are used only in some younger alcohols are evaporated at the double method. Armagnac blends: boisé (a reduction of oak chips and water); small amounts of different levels. As they rise, This adds to the individual character of each sugar syrup, if required; caramel for minor adjustments to colour. The addition they are forced by the design producer’s product, and explains the reasoning of demineralised water is also permitted to bring the alcoholic strength down to of the system to bubble back behind the requirement that the wines used must the 40% abv minimum for bottling, but in practice this is rarely required. up through the wine in the be as fresh and untainted as possible, since more is plates above. This ensures preserved in the final eau-de-vie.
april 2010 drinksint.com armagnac SUPPLEMENT Drinks International IX producer profiles Janneau Pioneering exporter
ounded in Condom in 1851, is the Janneau Classic Range in its and most innovative change to the Janneau is one of the oldest iconic Gaudronne bottle. portfolio in recent years has been the of the great Armagnac Styles within this range include the addition of the new Single Distillery F Houses. award-winning VSOP and XO Royal, Range – a unique style of Armagnacs, All aspects of the production which have won no fewer than five which are the product of a single process – from distilling and ageing gold medals each at the International distillery, using the traditional pot through to blending and bottling – Wine & Spirit Competition. still method. are carried out at Janneau. More recently this range The new range, which consists Recognised as a pioneer in was extended to include two of 8, 12, 18 and 25 year olds, has the region, it was Janneau that new luxurious XO expressions: been aged in Limousin oak. It reintroduced the double distillation Extraordinaire 18 Year Old and combines Armagnac terroir with pot still method to the region in Extraordinaire 30 Year Old. Cognac technique, and authenticity 1972 – a move which now clearly However, perhaps the biggest akin to that of malt whisky, to distinguishes its range of Armagnacs produce a winning combination. from all others. Janneau’s new range has already As the owner of one of the largest been awarded double gold in San stocks of old Armagnac, Janneau is Francisco, gold in London and also the region’s largest exporter and platinum at the Chicago Beverage lead supplier to the premium/luxury Tasting Institute, making it the most sector. internationally awarded Armagnac in Best known within the portfolio the world.
Janneau SA, 32100 Condom, France. janneau.net; email [email protected] Château de Pellehaut Quality through innovation
hâteau de Pellehaut is rigour and a constant search for situated in the Ténarèze quality through innovation. region; more exactly it is The Ténarèze, with its calcareous C situated in Montréal-du- clay soils, produces eaux-de-vie Gers, in the south west of France. with more structure and power. It is The Béraut family has lived in because of this variety and complexity Montréal-du-Gers for more than of the soils that the wines of this three centuries, and the family estate vineyard are a lot more fruity and rich. is today run by brothers Martin and It is also because of the geographic Mathieu Béraut. proximity to Bas-Armagnac, the Covering some 530ha, Pellehaut vinification process and the choice of is one of the biggest estates in the distillation and maturation methods. whole of the Gers. With 250ha for the The eaux-de-vie of Château de The favourite blend is la Réserve de vines, the remaining land is used to Pellehaut are fine, soft and complex. Gaston, a blend of the best vintages raise Blonde d’Aquitaine cattle and They use just two varieties in the made from Ugni Blanc and Folle for growing cereals. production of Armagnac: Ugni Blanc Blanche grapes. It is a true farming estate run in and Folle Blanche. It is aged for a minimum of 10 a traditional way – with respect for Today Armagnacs win systematic years in local and Limousin oak for ancestral methods and for natural praise from the trade and press in the Folle Blanche and a minimum 20 balance tempered by a scientific France and throughout the world. years for Ugni Blanc.
Château de Pellehaut, 32250 Montreal-du-Gers, France. pellehaut.com; email : [email protected]
X Drinks International armagnac supplement drinksint.com april 2010 Place in history Armagnac’s ancient lineage
hile this year’s 700th Between 711AD and 1492, anniversary Armagnac southern Spain was occupied Wcelebrations are based by the Moors – Arab and on the Vital Dufour text dating north African Muslims – from 1310, there is little doubt that who in this long period the history of distilling in this area established cities such as of south west France goes back far Córdoba, in modern-day beyond that time. Andalucia, as centres of learning, In order to distil eau-de-vie, you with libraries far greater than any first need to make wine. According to others in Europe at the time. Onivins (the French national office for Being situated geographically close fruit, vegetables and horticulture), the to the Spanish border, the Gascony first vineyards were planted in what is region was traditionally traversed now Marseille (then Massalia) on the by all kinds of travellers – religious French Mediterranean coast, as long pilgrims, commercial or military ago as the 6th century BC – brought personnel – who would bring with by the ancient Greeks. them knowledge attained on their Dictionnaire Historique de la Langue them as early as the 8th century, it It was the Romans who then travels. Française, under the direction of Alain seems clear that Gascony, as a wine- effectively spread vine growing According to the BNIA, records Rey: “The word ‘alambic’ is attested producing region, was well placed to across the whole of France in the show that alambic stills were being in 1265 and described the apparatus be the first area in France to discover early centuries AD, heading further used as early as the 6th century in for distilling, proof of the spread of this knowledge and put it into practice too into Spain. And it’s this Spanish the Middle East, for the production alchemy in Europe under the influence some time thereafter. connection that in time brought the of rose essence. And, according to of the Arabs.” And we have Prior Vital Dufour to Armagnac region to the fore in the art the recently published Armagnac Given that the Moors would have thank for putting it into words exactly of distilling. pour les Nuls [‘for Dummies’], in the brought their distilling expertise with 700 years ago. Focus on Vintage character tourism
ingle vintages are a key aspect of the identity The Armagnac Bureau BNIA has Sof Armagnac. Traditional practices allow large developed a new “Armagnac route” to producers to buy stocks in from individual growers to help guide tourists around the region, mature in their own cellars and, if they wish, sell at a with the aim of increasing sales of future date as an estate-bottled Armagnac. Armagnac directly from the estates. Many of the region’s small growers can have a few casks The Escapades en Armagnac map or just one distilled every year, and many use them as a and guide book, which gives more kind of “savings plan”, selling a case of rare old stock for details about participating houses a good price when in need of a boost in income. Clearly and estates, are scheduled for launch the benefits work both ways. in May, in time to catch the summer In this way, Armagnac is a good source of (relatively tourist season. good value) anniversary stock, with most years from the New road signs will point the way last century and more covered. Here are just some of the through the Armagnac countryside oldest, rarest and most interesting vintages, which are to individual estates, and there is available upon request. a further project under way for 1830 – Pre-phylloxera; oldest stocked by a producer additional signs to identify the (Baron de Lustrac) Louis Philippe 1er was the last king to appellation areas. rule France, 1830-48 As well as indicating the positions 1888 – Only five producers hold stock of this vintage of the hundred or so producers taking 1890 – Only one producer (Castarède) part in the Armagnac Route, the 1893 – Relatively plentiful, with 10 producers holding map shows the locations of tourist stock, including Marquis de Montesquiou, Bordeneuve destinations such as museums, castles Châteaux et Collections, and Castarède to name a few and public gardens. 1900 – 11 producers can supply a 1900 vintage, including 1918 – Only seven producers have stock (11/11/18 – Escapades en Armagnac will be Delord official end of the war) available free in all tourist offices 1910 – Six producers have stock 1939 – Nine producers hold stock and sites, and there is a new tourism 1914 – 11 producers (World War I – 3/8/14 Germany 1940 – Nine producers section on the armagnac.fr website. declared war on France) 1945 – 10 producers april 2010 drinksint.com armagnac SUPPLEMENT Drinks International XI producer profiles Castarède From ancient cellars ounded in 1832, the House Florence Castarède produces her Bas 2009: Silver, International Wine & of Castarède is the oldest Armagnacs there with the following Spirit Competition – London trading House of Armagnac. grape varieties: Folle Blanche, 2009: Silver (89 pts), Beverage Testing F For six generations, the Colombard and Ugni Blanc. Institute – Chicago Castarède family has developed 2009: Bronze, Concours d’Eauze this activity, which is led today by Armagnac Castarède XO: 2009: 86 points, Weinwirtschaft Florence Castarède. “The Armagnac Castarède XO has Magazine (March) The cellar at Pont de Bordes in orange tints and proposes cocoa 2007: Gold, International Wine & Lavardac, close to the Baïse river, is and dried fruits flavours. The mouth Spirit Competition – London one of the oldest cellars in Europe. is simple but well balanced. It is 2007: Bronze, Concours Général Castarède owns one of the most an Armagnac to be tasted with Agricole – Paris important collections of old vintages foie gras.” Guide des Vins Gilbert & 2007: Silver, Grandes Eaux-de-Vie (more than 50 vintages, the oldest Gaillard 2010 Contest – Eauze being 1893). The House of Castarède is Recent awards: nestled in the heart of a vineyard 2010: 94/100, Guide des Vins Gilbert & of 16ha surrounding a castle dating Gaillard 2010. “Copper colour, bronze from the 16th century in Mauléon tints. Elegant nose, spices, exotic d’Armagnac, situated in the Bas wood and tobacco notes, very fine. Armagnac region – known as the best Spicy mouth. A typical Armagnac.” to produce the finest eaux-de-vie. 2010: 16/20, Gault Millau Guide 2010
Armagnac Castarede, 140 Boulevard Hausmann, 75008 Paris. armagnac-castarede.fr; email [email protected] Baron de Sigognac Finesse and character
t is in the Château de These are exclusively dedicated to with beaten earth floors, in humid Bordeneuve, situated in the the production of the single vintage conditions which favour the birth of best tawny sandy soils of series. So, from the range stored in the first delicate flavours. I the Bas-Armagnac region, its unique and exceptional ‘Paradise’, Later on, the Baron de Sigognac that Baron de Sigognac distils the house can offer a treasure of Armagnacs will continue their its premium wine “crus” so as to more than 80 different vintages. maturation in a drier cellar, which produce its Armagnacs – known During their first years the will permit the development and for gathering finesse, elegance and Armagnacs mature in a special cellar perfection of the aromas. character. The Baron de Sigognac Immediately after the Armagnacs are an authentic distillation of the wines, production completed with intentionally kept over their respect for age-old tested lees, the Bas-Armagnacs are traditions. transferred into new 400-litre Today they are sold in many Vosges forest oak casks, where countries around the world they naturally acquire their and particularly in the United delicate flavours, be they fruity, Kingdom where they are floral or spicy. available at top stores such as Every year Baron de Sigognac Harrods, Selfridges, Fortnum & keeps a number of casks aside. Mason and Harvey Nichols.
Baron de Sigognac, 32440 Castelnau D’Auzan, France terroir-armagnac.com; email [email protected]
XII Drinks International armagnac supplement drinksint.com APRIL 2010 The Future La Blanche – a clear indication of things to come
ncient though the tradition in Armagnac Blanche is permitted to take the name of Armagnac is, this does not – as stated earlier in this as its roots lie in the region’s tradition of eau-de-vie Apublication – prevent the region being distilling and consumption. comfortable in the field of innovation. Proof positive And, uniquely among AOC controlled eaux-de- of this is Blanche d’Armagnac – the non-wood vie in France, every batch produced will be sampled matured eau-de-vie that hopes to capture the and analysed by the INAO (Institut National des imaginations of bartenders and to carry Armagnac Appellations d’Origine – not a body known for its into the ever-expanding world of white spirits. relaxed attitude towards regulation) before being It was a long time coming, with the defining decree released to market. finally activated on May 27 2005. Such a concept – In its infancy, there are currently only 20-25 ‘white’ Armagnac – would be impossible in Cognac, companies producing La Blanche. BNIA director where the spirit must be matured in the right kind Sébastien Lacroix estimates production volumes to of barrel for the right time before it can be described be: “About 10-15,000 bottles a year.” Check out the using the region’s name – all part of the strict website, theblanche.com AOC regulations. Well, for La Blanche the rules are, if anything, Bartender snapshot: La Blanche even more strict. It can only be produced from Durham Atkinson – Milk & Honey, London: existing approved vines in the Armagnac “I would say it is a fine expression of the region, of course, and must be put into inert wine that goes into the still. It has a more containers immediately after distillation. earthy and floral aroma than aged Armagnac, There it rests for a minimum of three expressing the terroir of the grapes used in months, after which it can be worked by the production process. It has a lively mouth the producer, aerating it to bring down the feel with rich and dry flavours of pears and alcohol level – it is distilled to a higher degree apples followed by a smoky, pungent, fiery yet than regular Armagnac. soothing tickle on the finish.” The point of La Blanche is to capture the Phil Duffy – The Player, London:“A aromatic character of the wines used, hence fantastically versatile product, equally at home the grapes of choice are the floral Folle in cocktails or sipped straight. Chilled, it Blanche, Ugni Blanc and fruity Baco. makes a great aperitif and it works really well Though it is France’s youngest AOC, La with fruity flavours.”
Armagnac on Armagnac ambassadors the web
hosen from a long list of public applicants, the BNIA for the WSET in New York No modern drinks marketing strategy Chas appointed ambassadors for Armagnac in three Jessica Bell founded the Midwest Wine School in Chicago can be complete without a credible key countries: the UK, US and Russia. and is an official French Wine Society instructor online presence, and the BNIA has It will be the job of the chosen ambassadors to spread Russia relaunched its website armagnac.fr in their personal passion for Armagnac to the trade and Ambassadors to be selected during 2010. comprehensive style. consumers alike. They will also take charge of the new Providing plenty to interest both internet forum being developed as part of the generic trade and consumer alike, the busy body’s website, armagnac.fr homepage – in French and English UK – provides easy links for history, Mark Wilkins is a designer and graphic artist with 20 years tourism and news; the region and how experience in the marketing of luxury brands in the UK. Armagnac is produced; a Cocktail Glenn Mcdowell is a professor of engineering at Nottingham of the Month section; easy click- University and is studying for the WSET Diploma. throughs to Facebook and Twitter; and Nicola Thomson is a freelance wine and spirit consultant special members’ areas for press and with WSET qualifications up to Diploma level, and is a producers. member of Women of Wine UK. Coming soon: the new interactive US Nicola Mark Glenn Armagnac discussion forum. May Matta-Aliah is a graphic designer and wine educator Thomson Wilkins Mcdowell april 2010 drinksint.com armagnac SUPPLEMENT Drinks International XIII producer profiles Samalens Birth of a great Single
orn into a long line of fine single malts and noble spirits winegrowers and distillers made according to real tradition. established in Laujuzan It offers them a subtly different B (Gers, Bas-Armagnac gustatory experience: a truly refined region) since 1882, current family sensation, long in the mouth, and head Pierre Samalens was struck with a unique flavour and quality by the evolution of taste and which will be easily appreciated by consumption modes relating to the double distillation stills, combining connoisseurs. spirit category around the world. this technique with distillation on Single de Samalens is a complete As a result, he decided to take on the lees. range which is available in three the challenge of inventing a new way As a result of this innovative different versions, aged for 8, 12 to produce and enjoy Armagnac. technique, coupled with a new and 15 years. It can be drunk as an After 15 years of research, Samalens ageing process, Samalens’s eaux- aperitif, neat, on ice – or even in created his Single de Samalens, a de-vie have enhanced floral aromas inventive cocktails. single grape Armagnac as ‘dry’ as a and a bouquet of incomparable single malt whisky and containing no richness. other sugar than the residual amount UK distributor: left naturally by the grape. For those who love the Bibendum Wine Basing his approach on the noblest spirits Tel: +44 (0) 207 449 4099 skilled know-how inherited from his Launched in 2010, this entirely new Fax: +44 (0) 207 449 1077 forebears, Samalens worked with reference is aimed at those who love bibendum-wine.co.uk
Armagnac Samalens, Route de Panjas, F-32110 Laujuzan (France). Tel: +33 (0)5 62 09 14 88. Fax : +33 (0)5 62 09 04 60. singledesamalens.com; email [email protected] Larressingle A different style arressingle was created and sometimes a hint of chocolate in 1837 by the Papelorey and musk flavour. family, after the name of For 170 years, five generations L the village in the Ténarèze of Papelorey have been producing région of Gascony, where an ancient Armagnac with the same passion, château is still to be seen. providing their clients all over the Gabriel Papelorey met his wife world with the best quality products, Elise there and settled in the region, thanks to a unique knowledge of initiating the family business of blending and ageing their prestigious bottled Armagnac. eaux-de-vie. His sons and grandsons grew The product range is wide and their trade to an international scale available in different classical in the US, French colonies and age counts such as VS, VSOP, XO, Europe. Napoleon and Hors d’Age, but also Ténarèze is the appellation area on the eastern side of the Armagnac in a powerful Ténarèze 21 Year Old region, where the land is made up of and numerous prestigious vintages. UK distributor: limestone and clay. The flexibility of the production Bibendum Wine This results in a different style enables Larressingle’s Armagnac to Tel: +44 (0) 207 449 4099 of Armagnac – powerful and with be actively involved both in the retail Fax: +44 (0) 207 449 1077 I intense aromas of dry fruits, nuts and HoReCa segment. bibendum-wine.co.uk
Larressingle, Etablissements Papelorey, Rue des Carmes, F-32100 Condom. Tel: +33 (0)5 62 28 15 33. Fax: +33 (0)5 62 28 36 99. email: [email protected]
XIV Drinks International armagnac supplement drinksint.com APRIL 2010 producer profiles Marquis de Montesquiou Excellence in Armagnac
a Maison Montesquiou The cellarmaster selects wines Marquis de Montesquiou has been rooted in the from the best vineyard parcels Armagnac is transferred into oak soil of Gascony since in Gascony and oversees their casks and stored in the impressive L the 11th century. The distillation. This enables the cellars known as “the Cathedral”. most celebrated member of the unique character of Marquis de Each cask is unique and worthy Montesquious was the Count Montesquiou Armagnacs to be of special attention and the d’Artagnan, musketeer of the King preserved. cellarmaster watches over every of France. His direct descendant Immediately after distillation, one of his vintages as they age. is Pierre de Montesquiou, the Born and bred in Eauze, Jean- founder of the company. Claude Dallas, the cellarmaster, La Maison Montesquiou possesses unique expertise that embodies the history and romance has been passed down from one of France’s oldest distilled spirit, generation to the next. Armagnac. He reveals the potential of Marquis de Montesquiou each blend and gives Marquis de Armagnac is made in Eauze Montesquiou Armagnacs their (south west France) in the heart true personality. of the Bas-Armagnac area. This He also selects the eaux-de-vie region produces the finest and that will become vintages, the most complex eaux-de-vie. quintessence of Armagnac.
Société des Produits d’Armagnac, Route de Cazaubon, 32 800 Eauze, France. We are still looking for new distributors in a number of countries. Please contact [email protected]. Exclusively represented in the UK by Emporia Brands. [email protected] Baron de Lustrac Gems of Gascony
nly the finest eaux-de- Armagnacs at the estate where they can supply customers with a large vie from the best terroirs are produced under the supervision choice of bottle shapes and different form part of the Baron and benevolent gaze of the styles of Armagnac. O de Lustrac vintage cellarmaster. It can supply some exceptional Armagnac range. Then the moment arrives to vintage Bas-Armagnacs, often Once distilled, they are aged in place this famous spirit into its from single grape varieties, which oak barrels inscribed with the year of glass prison. are presented in an old-fashioned distillation. As these Armagnacs are only bottle and come in strictly limited Essentially, Armagnacs Baron de bottled to order, Baron de Lustrac quantities. Lustrac come from small domaines The label is inscribed with the with which the company works year of distillation, the name of to age and care for the brandy, the estate of production, the bottle while also maintaining exclusive number and, where relevant, the distribution rights. grape variety. The company is currently working With the prunes and fruit of the with more than 20 producers in the Folle Blanche, the violet nose and heart of Bas-Armagnac. complex character of the Baco, Baron The privileged relationship it de Lustrac attempts to unearth rare shares with the producer allows and special gems of the Gascony Baron de Lustrac to age its region.
Baron de Lustrac, 32110 Magnan, France. armagnac-baron-de-lustrac.com; email [email protected] april 2010 drinksint.com armagnac supplement Drinks International XV