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The Southwest of Paris

Bonjour, my name is Bixente! Follow me on a WITH ABOUT 350,000 square miles, France is the largest coun- tour of southwestern France! try in Western Europe, and roughly the size of Texas. In 2003, its population reached 62 million, of which about 12 million live in or around the capital, Paris. France also includes several overseas territories: La Roche Posay and in the Caribbean; Futuroscope just north of Brazil; Reunion Island in the Ilele de Ré Indian Ocean; French Polynesia, Poitevinin Aubusson New Caledonia, and Wallis and La Rochelle Marshes Futuna in the Pacific Ocean; and - the Antarctic territories. Ilele d’’Olléron Since the European Union's Cognac inception, some 50 years ago, Atlantic France has been at the forefront of Angoulême Lascaux the construction of a strong and Ocean Périgord integrated Europe. The European Massif Périgueux Union remains one of France's top Médoc Central Lacanau foreign policy priorities. As one of Pomerol Sarlat the five permanent members of Saint-Emilion the United Nations' Security Gouffre de Dune de Pylala Arcachon Padirac Council, and the fourth highest Sauternes Cahors Conques contributor to the U.N. budget, France is deeply involved in all sig- Midi-Pyrénées nificant international affairs. Parc Régioional Moissac Cordes-sur-ciel But France is also a country des Hossegor Roquefort where people are strongly Albi Dax attached to their regional roots. Biarritz This brochure will help you understand the deep ties the Saint-Jean-de-Luz Marciac French continue to have with Pays Parc Régionionall du their native regions. Basque Pau Lourdes Haut- This brochure belongs to a series of six: the Northeast, the Pyrénées Northwest, the Southeast, the Gavarnie Southwest, Ile-de-France, and Parc Natiional the overseas territories. Brochures des Pyrénées are available on request, by writ- ing to [email protected]. History:From Cave Paintings to Castles

THE TURBULENT PAST of southwestern France has left the THE HUNDRED YEARSWAR region with an evocative historical legacy. Originally settled by prehistoric Beginning around the 11th cen- and Gallic tribes, southwestern France is a veritable historical goldmine. tury, French and English kings Rich with prehistoric artifacts, the region is spotted with evidence of an vied for the control of southwest- extensive Paleolithic civilization. In the and Lot regions in par- ern France. In 1137, the region's ticular, there are many status seemed settled when prehistoric caves that , Duchess of are worth visiting. The Aquitaine, married King Louis VII, most renowned of thereby joining Aquitaine to these is the Grotte de France. The couple’s divorce in Lascaux. Discovered in 1152 left Eleanor free to marry 1940, the cave paint- Henry II (Duke of and ings cover three basic later King of ), again tak- themes: animals, sym- ing the region out of French con- bols and human rep- Portrait of Queen Eleanor trol. As a result, for more than a resentations. Because hundred years, France was embroiled in numerous battles with researchers feared Prehistoric painting inside one of the Southwest’s many ancient caves England over ownership of the territory. These battles came to that crowds of tourists be known as the Hundred Years War. Much of southwestern would accelerate the irremediable deterioration of the cave's ancient France was decimated by these wars. paintings, an artificial cave was built that is an exact replica of the original. It is this cave, Lascaux 2, that may be visited today But Aquitaine, ruled largely by the counts of Poitou, grew (www.culture.gouv.fr/culture/arcnat/lascaux/en/). more and more autonomous, until it finally became part of the Following settlement by the and a period of Roman occu- kingdom of England (see box above). The region only reverted to pation, southwestern France passed to the Franks when they defeat- French rule at the end of the Hundred Years' War (1337-1453), a ed the in 507. , famed leader of the Franks, series of wars that eventually resulted in the English being driven restored a united Frankish kingdom and established a power base on out of France. which the was founded. When the Frankish ter- Meanwhile, unlike Poitiers or ritory of Aquitaine (which included modern-day Poitou-Charentes Bordeaux, the city of Toulouse and most of the Midi-Pyrénées) was raided by Muslim conquerors managed to resist foreign con- from Spain in the early 8th century, it was Martel who defeated the quest and remained a regional invading Muslims and halted their expansion into Europe. This leg- power for several centuries. The endary battle took place at Poitiers in 732 and served to unite city and surrounding region were Aquitaine under the Carolingian empire. governed by counts in the name of the Frankish emperor, but their distance from France's seat of power made the area largely autonomous in practice. From the 9th to the 13th centuries, Toulouse was the site of one of the most beautiful courts of Europe, a civi- lization of refinement and great influence, featuring in particular the literature and troubadours of the Langue d'Oc. This regional The Basilique de St. Sernin in Toulouse dialect was spoken in the southern half of France between 1000 and 1600, and is the source of modern-day provençal. Toulouse's numerous architectural wonders speak to the city’s relative stability. The Basilique de St. Sernin, for example, incorpo- rates original Roman architecture into its structure and displays ancient murals on its walls dating as far back as the 11th century. In the 13th century, the king of France used the emergence of a new heresy in the region, Catharism, as an excuse to inter- vene and restore his authority, and by the end of the century, the Charles Martel at Poitiers, southwest of France became once more an integral part of the Anonymous . Endless Coastlines and Timeless Mountains

THE SOUTHWEST has a very temperate climate. There can be CLIFF-HANGING ROCAMADOUR some rain in the spring, while summers are generally warm and A small village precariously dry. Autumn offers beautiful, sunny blue skies and agreeably warm perched on the side of a temperatures. Winters are mild and short-lived, with snow a rare cliff high above the Alzou occurrence. Valley, Rocamadour is From the Poitevin unparalleled in its breath- marshes, known as takingbeauty. Also famous "the green Venice" for for a goat cheese of the its labyrinth of weed- same name, Rocamadour colored canals, to the became a world-renowned Pyrénées mountains, destination for pilgrims fol- southwestern France is lowing the 1166 discovery characterized by a very of an ancient grave said to diverse topography. The be that of the early countryside between Christian hermit Saint Périgueux and the The Poitevin marshes Amadour. Rocamadour is Pyrénées is graced by castles, churches and more than 300 most awe-inspiring in the , which are 13th-century towns built following a precise sunlight of the early grid layout (in what was one of the first instances of urban plan- morning, when the tow- ning!). The verdant hills and sleepy villages of Gascony and ers, battlements and clus- Périgord embody an ideal country life. ter of medieval houses The Southwest also has a seem to spring forth from the base of the precipice. seemingly endless Atlantic coastline (pictured), with fine Finally, the Pyrénées them- sandy beaches. The straight selves, forming a natural border coastline suddenly forms a between Spain and France, are a lagoon in the Bassin d'Arcachon, huge part of the Southwest's land- famous for its natural beauty. In scape and culture. They symbolize the north, islands such as Ré the balance between nature and and Oléron are heavily visited human civilization and the possibil- for their pristine beaches. ity of living in harmony with our Inland lies the pine forest of environment. Bears, for example, the Landes. Planted during the which disappeared from France in 18th and 19th centuries to drain the 19th century, have the area's marshes, it covers more been reintroduced in than 250,000 million acres, making some parts of the moun- it the largest of its kind in Europe. tain range in the last few decades. Other endan- THE DUNE OF PYLA gered species that are One of the most unusual spots in France is located just a few now experiencing a miles south of Bordeaux. The dune of Pyla, two miles long and comeback include isards 375 feet high, is the highest sand-hill in Europe. Wooden steps (a type of chamois), mar- make the site accessible to most visitors, and intrepid climbers mots (which were recently are rewarded with breathtaking views at the top. The azure-blue reintroduced into the ocean on one side of the massive white dunes and the green Pyrénées National Park) pine forest of the Landes on the other both spread out as far as and the black woodpeck- the eye can see. er (Europe’s largest). As a testament to its natural beauty and cultural importance, UNESCO reg- istered the Franco-Spanish range of Gavarnie-Mont Perdu as a World Heritage Site in 1997 (learn more at View from the top of the dune of Pyla Gavarnie in the summer www.parc-.com). Advanced Aeronautics and Thriving Tourism

ONE OF SOUTHWESTERN France's main industries is without The Southwest is also renowned for being the farming cen- a doubt tourism. Indeed, the region attracts many travelers, what- ter of France. Indeed, Aquitaine is France's number-one agricul- ever the season. In wintertime, 38 ski resorts in the Pyrénées open tural region. Of all France's regions, it is home to the most "appel- their doors to vacationers for downhill and cross-country skiing. lations d'origine contrôlée" (labels of origin), including Agen prunes and Espelette pepper. Limousin's claim to fame is the Limousin cow, which is exported for its delicious meat to over 70 countries. In the Pyrénées, sheep breeders take pride in their time- honored traditions, and every July, the Fête de la Transhumance celebratesthe sea- sonal migration of herds to summer pastures. Harbor of La Rochelle Major fishing ports dot the coast, including Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Arcachon and La Rochelle. The latter, with its famous Marennes-Oléron oysters, has helped make Poitou-Charentes France's leading oyster-farm- During the summer, the mountains attract many hikers, ing area. Finally, who could forget the world-renowned Bordeaux wines, especially in the Pyrénées national nature reserve, which covers ideal for accompanying delectable morsels of foie gras. more than 620,000 acres. Of course, in summertime most tourists flock to the Atlantic coast, which offers a varied array of land- The Cité de l'Espace scapes, ranging from Aquitaine's endless coastline, to La (www.cite-espace.com), Rochelle's harbor, to the Ile de Ré. inside Toulouse’s city Must-sees in the Southwest also include the Lascaux limits, shows the impor- caves, with their prehistoric paintings, the Futuroscope park tance of the aerospace (see box), the natural thermal spas of La Roche Posay and Dax, industry in the region. the Poitevin marshes, the town of Lourdes and the Gouffre This "space park" fea- de Padirac, a huge 102-foot-wide, 250-foot-deep sinkhole that tures a planetarium and leads to an underground river. interactive exhibits relat- ed to the exploration of The Futuroscope park space, including a full- explores video technol- scale replica of an ogy in a futuristic archi- The first commercial Ariane V rocket takes Ariane 5 rocket. tectural environment. off from French Guiana in 1999 Its 22 different build- ings offer the newest in Within the past few decades, high-tech industries have blos- movie technology. The somed in the Midi-Pyrénées. Indeed, Toulouse has become crystal-like Kinemax, Europe's space and aeronautics center, as it is the home of Airbus, for instance, has a the world's leading screen equivalent in manufacturer of pas- size to a seven-story senger jets. Companies building. Located only such as EADS and 4.3 miles from Poitiers Alcatel Space have also (90 mn southwest of set up major operations Paris by TGV), the park in the area. The region has attracted 30 million is also the second- visitors since its open- largest French software center and a leader in ing in 1987, making it Airbus site in Toulouse the number two on-board electronics. amusement park in Alongside these very high-tech industries, traditional indus- France (to learn more: tries still flourish in the area, including Limoges china (world www.futuroscope.fr). renowned for its fineness), Limousin leather and the carpets and The Futuroscope park tapestries of Aubusson. From Medieval Pilgrimages to Sunny Surfing

SOUTHWESTERN FRANCE is rich with the cultural heritage If museums aren't your thing, of centuries past. Perhaps the clearest illustration of the a smorgasbord of festivals awaits Southwest's rich cultural history lies in its architecture, which you! Take, for instance, Jazz in reflects the influences of many a bygone era. There are villages Marciac (www.jazzinmarciac.com), that have hardly changed since the , such as Moissac,with an international musical event that its medieval monastery, occurs every summer. Or the or Cordes-sur-Ciel, built Festival International de la Bande on a hilltop. Even Dessinée in Angoulême, where Scene from the play "L'Hypothèse" in 100,000-strong Poitiers one can peruse the latest graph- the ‘Molière-Scène d'Aquitaine’ theater has not lost touch with ic novels and comic books every January (www.bdangouleme.com). its medieval origins, boasting Romanesque BASQUE COUNTRY buildings such as the Many have heard of Spain's , 12th-century church but 10 percent of Basque country Notre-Dame-la-Grande. actually lies in France, and it includes Then there are cities cities such as Bayonne, Biarritz and such as Bordeaux, Inside Notre-Dame-la-Grande Church in Poitiers Saint-Jean-de-Luz. which was entirely reconstructed during the 18th century and is Though not fiercely separatist like now home to grand buildings and monuments, as well as their Spanish counterparts, the French Toulouse, whose Old Town was built entirely from rose-colored Basques remain strongly attached to brick. Sarlat, famous for harboring one of the best markets in their unique culture. They have their France, has the highest concentration of medieval, Renaissance own complex language, music, games and 17th-century façades of any French city. (such as Basque pelota) and folklore. Basque pelota is a type of For those who wish to experience this heritage, the road to court sport played with a ball To celebrate their culture, the that is propelled against a Compostela (Compostelle in French), a medieval pilgrimage Basques have held the Festival of wall using one's hand, a rack- route, passes through much of the region. While on this route, et, a wooden bat or a stick fit- Bayonne every summer since 1932. ted with a basket. It is very walkers can follow in ancient footsteps and visit the magnificent People from all over the region show similar to squash, except it is churches that once hosted countless pilgrims, notably the church up in traditional red and white garb played on a larger court. of Sainte-Foy in Conques and Saint-Sernin cathedral in Toulouse. to take part in the festival's sports and cultural events, and in tra- More recently, the city of Lourdes has also become a major place ditions such as the bull races. of pilgrimage. Every year, 4 million people make the trip to Lourdes to visit a local cave in which a young woman is said to Sports are also a major part of have had visions of the Virgin in 1853. the Southwest's culture. Rugby, The cities of introduced in France at the end of southwestern France the 19th century, has been passion- are not only reposi- ately embraced by the Southwest, tories of history, but which fields excellent teams from are also lively places Toulouse and Agen (pictured is a full of museums and match between Cahors and cultural events. The Poitiers). More recently, surfers have Henri de Toulouse- discovered great spots on the beach- Lautrec Museum in es along the Atlantic coast, particularly around Biarritz, Lacanau and Albi, for example, Hossegor. Indeed, for the past 25 years, internationally renowned surfers contains the most have met in Lacanau for summer competitions (www.lacanau-pro.com). complete permanent collection of the "Amacario" by Stalker in Bordeaux’s CAPC museum 19th-century artist's work (www.musee-toulouse-lautrec.com). Bordeaux's CAPCcon- temporary art museum is located in an elegant former warehouse for colonial goods (www.mairie-bordeaux.fr/musees/capc/capc.htm).The city of Toulouse, for its part, is home to a number of excellent art museums, including the Musée des Augustins (www.augustins.org), which displays an important collection of Romanesque statues, and a celebrated modern art museum, Les Abattoirs (www.lesabattoirs.org). Surfer at the 2003 Lacanau Pro competition A Gourmand’s Eden:Foie Gras and Bordeaux Wines

TRUE TO THE SAYING "great cooking DELICIOUSDUCK and great wines make paradise on earth," Duck is also a passion in the Southwest, southwestern France is a gourmand's Eden. and many recipes for its preparation can The best wines and gourmet foods in the be found throughout the region. world come from this region, so it is no sur- Favorites include confit de canard (suc- prise that many of the local dishes and spe- culent duck cooked and preserved in its cialties are absolutely mouth-watering. own fat), magret (thin slices of lightly With 284,320 acres of AOC (Appellation cooked duck often served with walnuts d'Origine Contrôlée) vines, Bordeaux is the and greens, also known as maigret), largest fine wine-making region in the world and salade de gésiers (hot pieces of ten- and is home to some of the most legendary der duck gizzard, potatoes, olives and Duck confit, a renowned dish Southwestern labels. Its sterling reputation is built mostly on tomato slices over a bed of greens). of the Southwest delicacies red wines, especially those from Médoc, Saint-Emilion and Pomerol. But Bordeaux doesn't just mean reds. The mouth-watering and practical- The region also produces a wide range of excellent white and rosé ly ritualized cassoulet of Toulouse wines, including dry and sweet whites from the famous Sauternes arouses fierce competition among cooks districts, and a sparkling wine called Crémant de Bordeaux. in the southwest. Made from haricot beans which have melted into confit, as BRAWNYBRANDY well as knuckle of pork, pork rind While Bordeaux wines are sausages, local herbs, garlic and nutmeg, Cassoulet of Toulouse undoubtedly the most interna- real cassoulet requires lengthy prepara- tionally known of all southwest- tion before it is ready to be served in small terracotta dishes. ern boissons, they are by no A southwestern-style cheese board is another attractive prospect, means the only beverages to orig- with cheeses made from goat, cow or ewe's milk. One can choose inate from the region. Besides fine between the small, round, melt-in- wines, the region's most famous the-mouth pebbles of Rocamadour, drink is brandy. The best brandies the prestigious Roquefort cheese are distilled in both Cognac and which, like the Bleu des , Armagnac and are used in a has slowly matured, deep within number of apéritifs that are exclu- time-worn cliffs, or the Pyrenean sive to the region. One of these is tomme cheese, fragrant from the Ewe's cheese maturing inside limestone Floc de Gascogne, which com- cheese cellars of the Ariège. caves in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon bines fresh grape juice with young Bottle of Armagnac brandy Armagnac, both produced on the same vineyard. Invented four FOR MORE INFORMATION... centuries ago, it continues to tantalize taste palates today. Comité Régional de Tourisme d'Aquitaine Cité mondiale - 23 Parvis des Chartrons - 33074 Bordeaux Cedex When speaking of gourmet specialties, the archetypical product Tel: +33 5 56 01 70 00 / Fax: +33 5 56 01 70 07 from the southwest is foie gras. An absolute must in terms of gas- E-mail: [email protected] tronomy, foie gras is the enlarged www.crt.cr-aquitaine.fr liver of a duck or goose that has Conseil Régional de Midi-Pyrénées been force-fed on corn, cooked in 54 bd de l'Embouchure - BP2166 - 31022 Toulouse Cedex 2 either brandy or port. In the Tel: +33 5 61 13 55 55 / Fax: +33 5 61 47 17 16 and in the Lot, which are the E-mail: [email protected] realms of good taste, foie gras is www.tourisme-midi-pyrenees.com first and foremost a family affair. Comité Régional du Tourisme Poitou-Charentes Foie gras families respect the best 8 rue Riffault – BP 56 - 86002 POITIERS CEDEX – France traditions of yesteryear but also Tel: +33 5 49 50 10 50 / Fax: +33 5 49 41 37 28 invent new ways of varying the E-mail: [email protected] pleasures of goose and duck foie www.poitou-charentes-vacances.com gras. This love of good craftsman- Comité Régional du Tourisme du Limousin ship can also be found in Comité Régional du Tourisme du Limousin Bayonne's famous ham, which is 27 bd de la Corderie 87000 LIMOGES prepared on the coast of Aquitaine Tel: +33 5 55 45 18 80 by farmers who uphold traditions E-mail: [email protected] Press &Information Office, www.tourismelimousin.com Embassy of France Foie gras prepared with Autumn fruits that go back hundreds of years. January 2006